Name: A Visit to Connaught in the Autumn of 1847: A Letter Addressed to the ...
Author: Society of Friends Dublin Monthly Meeting . Central Relief Committee James Hack Tuke, Central Relief Committee of the Society of Friends (Dublin, Ireland)

Read the copy these stories were drawn from on the Internet Archive.

69: stories drawn from it
69: placed on the map
8: counties: Mayo, Galway, Donegal and more
16,823: words in the passages on this page

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Belmullet: fever described as a plague

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847

Fever was raging through Belmullet with such severity that the author was warned against entering the town, as every other house was said to be infected. The disease struck both the respectable classes and the poor crowded in filthy cabins, with multiple family members often lying prostrate simultaneously.

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heretofore. I hardly visited a family among the more respectable classes, in which I did not find that several of its mem^ bers had been attacked, or were mourning the loss of their nearest fiiends. In Belmullet especially, it might truly be called a plague ; and I was warned of the danger of entering the town, as every other house was said to be more or less infected by its deadly presence. If it be thus prevalent among the upper classes, what must it be among the inmates of the miserable hovels, crowded together upon, filthy straw on the mud floors of their cabins, without suitable nourishment or care ! In one family seven were lying prostrate, in another five, in another three were sick ; so fearful were the poor of the infection, that they frequently warned me of en* tering their cabins. However, the precaution, in particular cases, is hardly needed ; for as it was firequently remarked to me, infection once in these hovels is sJmost certain to remain.
The very great mortality of the past year in this district was confirmed by all with whom I conversed; and the belief seems to be general, that unless immediate steps be taken to relieve the people, deaths will be even more numerous, and the effects of famine far more terrible during the coming winter ; and that instead of twenty thousand inhabitants, ten thousand only will be left. It is a state of things which makes one unhappy to write about, how much more to witness. At Belmullet, upon the inner Mullet (that ultima Thule of human misery), at Bangor, at Rossport, at Pullatomas — everywhere I witnessed the same extent of waste land — the same neglect of cultivated land — everywhere crowds of wretched beings imploring vociferously for food or work, — " Feed us or we die," seems written on the countenances of every one.* I have visited the wasted remnants of the once noble Red Man on his reservation grounds in North America, and explored the *^ negro quarter " of the degraded and enslaved African, but never have I seen misery so intense, or

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, in the autumn of 1847, fever was so severe that one visitor called it a plague. He was warned against entering the town, told that every other house was more or less infected by its deadly presence. The fever struck the respectable classes and the poor alike. Hardly a family among the better off escaped it; several members had been attacked or were mourning the loss of nearest friends. But among the poor, crowded together on filthy straw on the mud floors of their cabins, without suitable nourishment or care, it was worse. In one family seven were lying prostrate, in another five, in another three. The poor themselves were so fearful of the infection that they frequently warned the visitor against entering their cabins. Infection once in these hovels was almost certain to remain. The great mortality of the past year was confirmed by all he spoke with. The belief was general that unless immediate steps were taken to relieve the people, deaths would be even more numerous, and the famine far more terrible in the coming winter. Instead of twenty thousand inhabitants, ten thousand only would be left. He called this place upon the inner Mullet the ultima Thule of human misery. At Bangor, at Rossport, at Pullatomas, everywhere he saw the same waste land, the same neglect, crowds of wretched beings imploring for food or work. "Feed us or we die" seemed written on the countenances of every one. He had visited the wasted remnants of the Red Man on his reservation grounds in North America, and explored the negro quarter of the enslaved African, but never had he seen misery so intense.
Famine at Dunglow: no meal and starving mountaineers

Dunglow · town · Donegal · 1847

At Dunglow, on the Marquis of Conyngham's estate, there was literally no meal available during the famine winter. Half-naked men, women, and children came down from mountain hovels through snow to find out if they would be kept alive.

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was the coiiditioii of their miserable neighbours ; on the one estate there was the means of preserving life, on the other there was not At Dunglow, a town on the Marquis's property, there was literally no meal the day before I was there, and the family of the Protestant clergyman knew not that they should have bread to eat the next day. A troop of miserable creatures, men, women and children, half naked in the midst of the snow, had come from their hovels in the mountains to know whether they would be kept alive ! A cart was despatched to Lord G. HilFs store at Gweedore, a distance of twenty-five miles, twenty of which were through the estate of the Marquis, to see if meal was to be had there ! It was uncertain whether the vehicle could cross the mountains over which it must pass, so deeply covered were they with snow. It was also uncertain whether, if meal were found at the store, a supply could be spared for those who had made no provision for this time of need. All these doubts, however, were favourably solved. A supply arrived, but it could not meet half the wants of the stannng people. No sudden effort of charity could by possibility meet them. Multitudes perished from starvation during the winter, not because the land could not have supplied their needs — not because the people would not work it — but because it was subjected to a system opposed to common humanity, common justice and common sense. The Marquis of Conyngham's estate, be it remembered, is not spoken of as a singular instance of neglect, but only as an example, on a large scale, of the condition of a great portion of the property of Ireland.
What are we doing in England to suffer such a state of things to continue in our sister island ? Does her waste soil owe no duties to us and to her own children ? The fealty of her people we are perpetually debating, and annually expending millions to maintain ; but the fealty of her soil — by which millions might be brought into the private and public coffers of the nation, by which the miserable paupers of Ireland might be raised to comparative independence, and the instruments of war, now deemed needful to coerce her, might be converted into ploughshares and reaping-hooks — excites but little interest in the English mind.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You're coming through Dunglow now, a town on the Marquis of Conyngham's estate. In the winter of 1847, there was literally no meal here the day before a visitor arrived, and even the Protestant clergyman's family did not know if they would have bread the next day. Half-naked men, women, and children came down from mountain hovels through the snow to find out whether they would be kept alive. A cart was sent 25 miles to Lord G. Hill's store at Gweedore, 20 of those miles through the Marquis's own estate, to see if meal could be had. It was uncertain whether the cart could cross the snow-covered mountains, or whether the store would spare anything for people who had made no provision. The supply did arrive, but it could not meet half the wants of the starving people. No sudden effort of charity could have met them. Multitudes perished from starvation that winter, not because the land could not have supplied their needs, nor because the people would not work it, but because it was subjected to a system opposed to common humanity, common justice, and common sense. The Marquis's estate was not a singular instance of neglect, only an example on a large scale of the condition of a great portion of the property of Ireland.
Belmullet sessions: milch cow seized for unpaid rent

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847

At the Belmullet sessions, a civil bill was granted against a wretched tenant for a half-year's rent of £2 5s. The tenant's milch cow, the family's only support, was seized and sold for only 17s. despite being worth £2 10s., and the balance was still decreed. The barrister strongly commented on the harshness of the case.

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* At the sessions in Belmullet (which terminated on the day of my arrival there), a civil bill was granted against a wretched creature for £2, 5s. — ^a half year's rent, due in May last. A milch cow, the onlv support of the family, had been seized and sold for this rent, for 17s., although worth £2, lOs. The balance was decreed for ! The barrister acting as judge strongly commented upon the harshness of the case.
26

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, the Belmullet sessions heard a hard case in 1847. A civil bill was granted against a wretched creature for £2 5s, a half year's rent due in May. The family's milch cow, their only support, was seized and sold for 17s, though it was worth £2 10s. The balance was still decreed. The barrister acting as judge strongly commented on the harshness of the case.
Erris barony famine catastrophe and mass mortality

Erris · barony · Mayo · 1847

The barony of Erris, on the extreme north-west coast of Mayo, had a population of about 28,000. Of these, at least 2,000 emigrated principally to England, and 6,000 perished by starvation, dysentery, and fever, leaving 10,000 of the remaining 20,000 on the verge of starvation.

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This barony is situated upon the extreme north-west coast of Mayo, bounded on two sides by the Atlantic ocean. The population last year was computed at about 28,000 ; of that number, it is said, at least 2,000 have emigrated, principally to England, being too poor to proceed to America ; and that 6,000 have perished by starvation^ dysentery , and fever. There is left a miserable remnant of little more than 20,000 ; of whom 10,000, at least, are, strictly speaking, on the very ' verge of starvation. Ten thousand people within forty-eight hours' journey of the metropolis of the world, living, or rather starving, upon turnip-tops, sand-eels, and sea-weed, a diet which no one in England would consider fit for the meanest animal which he keeps. And let it not be supposed that of this famine diet they have enough, or that each of these poor wretches has a little plot of turnips on which he may feed at his pleasure. His scanty meal is, in many cases, taken from a neighbour hardly richer than himself, not indeed at night, but, with the daring of absolute necessity, at noon-day.*
On entering the houseless and uncultivated region of Erris, the traveller is reminded of the wilds of Canada : for some miles hardly an acre of cultivated land or the appearance of

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Eviction by civil bill process in County Mayo

Ballina · townland · Mayo · 1845–1847

A solicitor from Ballina describes how Mayo landlords evicted tenants-at-will not through formal ejectment but via civil bill processes for rent arrears, obtaining decrees against the persons of defendants. Tenants fled the country, entered workhouses, or were imprisoned until they surrendered their holdings.

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recently discovered, and have, bj practice, made tolerably effective. The proceeding to which I now allude is by action, at the suit of the landlord against the tenant, for the use and occupation of the land. This action is commenced by a service upon the tenant, six days at least before the sitting of the Court, of what is called a civil bill processy signed by the landlord or his attorney, setting forth the names of the parties, the amount claimed to be due, and the period up to which the payment is sought, and requiring the defendant to appear before the Court and answer the action of the plaintiff. The Court, upon having received evidence of the tenancy and of the amount agreed to be paid for the use and occupation of the land, grants a decree, under which, at the action of the plaintiff, either the person of the defendant or his chattels may be taken in execution. The practice latterly in such actions as those has been (for the obvious purpose of clearing the land) to issue the decrees against the persons of the defendants. The disastrous state of the times has, for the last two years and a half, rendered it utterly impossible for the tenants to pay their rents with the same punctuality that they had hitherto done ; and the landlords accordingly, acting upon the principle that they were entitled, under every circumstance, either to the possession of their land or the value of it, have almost universally, in the northern part of this county, proceeded against all their tenants in arrear, in the way I have stated, for recovery of the rent of the land, in most cases up to the last gale day. Very many of the poor tenants, upon being served with diose civil bill processes, fled from the country, and thus saved the landlord the trouble and expense of proceeding farther ; for they knew if they had remained, they should be obliged to pay the rent infull^ or, if unable to do so, should either surrender their land and home to their landlord, or submit to be imprisoned under an Assistant-Barrister's decree for the amount due. Many, who had no means to enable them to leave the country or pay their rent, willingly gave up possession of their holdings, and sought admission into the workhouses, in order to escape arrest under a similar process of law. Sijme few^ who were obstinate in keeping possession, were arrested and cast into gaol, and, upon seeking to be discharged as insolventSy found that they could procure their release only upon an undertaking to give up the possession of their land. Many were even detained in custody until

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 3

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, in the autumn of 1847, a Ballina solicitor described how Mayo landlords were clearing their land. Instead of formal ejectment, they used civil bill processes, suing tenants for the use and occupation of the land. A summons was served on the tenant at least six days before the court sat, stating the amount claimed to be due and requiring the defendant to appear. The court would then grant a decree under which either the person of the defendant or his chattels could be taken in execution. In practice, the landlords issued these decrees against the persons of the tenants, for the obvious purpose of clearing the land. For two and a half years, the tenants had been unable to pay their rents with their former punctuality, and in the northern part of this county the landlords almost universally proceeded against all tenants in arrear, in most cases up to the last gale day. Many of the poor tenants, upon being served, fled the country and saved the landlord further trouble. They knew that if they stayed they must either pay the rent in full, surrender their land and home, or submit to imprisonment under an Assistant-Barrister's decree. Many who had no means to leave or pay gave up their holdings willingly and sought admission into the workhouses to escape arrest. A few who were obstinate were arrested and cast into gaol, and found they could procure release only upon giving up possession of their land. Some were even detained in custody until they surrendered their holdings.
Destitution and street deaths at Belmullet

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847

At Belmullet, the capital of Erris, a crowd of almost naked and perishing people congregated in the streets with no homes, food, or shelter. The inn landlord reported that six persons had died in the streets in the preceding nights.

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At Belmnllet, the capital of the district of Erris, a crowd of almost naked perishing creatures were congregating in the streets, in a state of ^^ perfect destitution,'^ as the landlord of the inn assured me ; they had no homes, no shelter, no land, no food ; they slept at night in the streets, and begged for snpport during the day, of neighbours hardly richer than themselves. He told me also that " six persons had died in the streets in the few previous nights ; " and I am sure that several whom I saw there are now beyond the reach of earthly calamity. The ghastly smile which momentarily played on the countenances of these living skeletons, at the prospect of a little temporarv relief, I cannot easily forget* It rendered still more painful the expression of intense anxiety and bitter misery which was exhibited in their livid and death-set features.
Although so much has already been said about evictions, I can hardly omit to mention one instance connected with that system of extermination which many Irish landlords think themselves justified in adopting. The extreme western portion of Erris is a narrow promontory, called the ^^ Inner

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here is Belmullet, described as the capital of Erris. In the autumn of 1847, a crowd of almost naked, perishing people gathered in the streets in a state of perfect destitution. The landlord of the inn told the visitor they had no homes, no shelter, no land, no food. They slept at night in the streets and begged for support during the day, from neighbours hardly richer than themselves. The landlord said six persons had died in the streets in the few previous nights. The visitor was sure that several he saw there were already beyond the reach of earthly calamity. He wrote of the ghastly smile that played momentarily on the countenances of these living skeletons, at the prospect of a little temporary relief. He said he could not easily forget it. That smile rendered still more painful the expression of intense anxiety and bitter misery in their livid, death-set features.
Emigration passage from Galway to Liverpool

Galway · city · Galway · 1847

An Irish emigrant in Baltimore writes home to his wife about arranging passage for the family. He notes that he could not afford to send for them directly from Galway and asks about the cost of getting to Liverpool first.

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My Letters to you is good ; thanks be to the Lord I am in good health, but yours to my sorrow is not the best. But I trust in the Lord that you and the children is in good health now, and if the Lord took any of them from you do not be sorrow, for you and I could not do for them as well ; as for me. Dear Judy, I am doing for ye as well as I can. I send home this 10 pound; I hope that it will not be long untill I send for ye all. I would make aragements to send for some of ye, But I expect to bring ye all from Liverpool. I would rather ye would be all Together than to seperate ye from each other. Y^u will be as carefull as you can about this money, for perhaps I might get a chance before a month. I could not make up as much as could take ye from Galway. You will let me know how the passage is in Galway. If you can you will let me know how much would take ye to Liverpool, for I reckon its there I must bring ye from. You will write to me as soon as you can after you getting Uiis. The steamer Leaves liiverpool every Saturday, so do not Delay. You will send me all paticulars about the children, for I am very uneasy utill I hear from ye ; if any of them Dead, do not denied of me. ' Dear Judy, I am as well as any man, but the uneasiness for you and the children is wearing me ; as for Diejt there is no Compairing to it. You will send me account how my Dear Mother is. . I will send her a letter before long. You will send me accounts how is all my enquiring friends, but more Particular my friend James Mc Donough ana his family. Any time he wishes to know any thing a Bout this Country let him write to me. I hope that Mr.Fary and family is well, Margret Conner and Mary Bird, and their family. I wish the were here. You will let me know Did Edward Burke write home scince he went, or where is he in a Merica. I hope that Thomas Mc Donough and his family is well. I send my best respects to Mr. Curtin. I know if he was in any place in a Merica that he could do well. I meet a great Deal of Trish here. Dear Judy, I hope that William and Mary will write to me. I hope that my fine children is all Together. I hope Ihat the are going to school. William, be a good Boy ; I am doeing my best to get ye all here. We are all very clean here ; every one io this Country wash their faces and comes their hair three times a day.
No more at present, but

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You are coming through Galway now. In 1847 this city was a departure point for people leaving Ireland, but for one family it was a place they could not afford to leave from directly. A man who had emigrated to Baltimore wrote a letter home to his wife Judy in that year. He told her he was in good health and asked about her and the children. He said he was doing for them as well as he could. He sent home ten pounds. He could not make up enough to bring them from Galway. He told her he expected to bring them all from Liverpool instead, because he would rather keep them together than separate them from each other. He asked her to let him know how the passage was in Galway, and how much it would take to get them to Liverpool, for he reckoned that was where he must bring them from. He told her the steamer leaves Liverpool every Saturday and not to delay. He asked her to send all particulars about the children, for he was very uneasy until he heard from them. If any of them were dead, he asked her not to deny him that knowledge. He said the uneasiness for her and the children was wearing him, and that there was no comparing it to anything. He asked after his mother, and after friends named James McDonough, Mr. Fary, Margaret Conner, Mary Bird, Thomas McDonough, and Mr. Curtin. He asked whether Edward Burke had written home since he went, or where he was in America. He told William to be a good boy, that he was doing his best to get them all there. He said everyone in that country washes their faces and combs their hair three times a day.
Mass eviction at Keel fishing village on Achill Island

near Keel · population centre · Mayo · 1847

At the fishing village of Keel on Achill Island, some forty families were recently evicted from their homes by the landlord's agents. The ejected tenants were left destitute, surrounded by the charred timbers of their roofless dwellings.

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The landlords of Mayo, as well as of many other portions of Connaught, as a class (there are many noble exceptions who feel and see the impolicy and evil of such proceedings), are pursuing a course which cannot fail to add to the universal wretchedness and poverty which exist. The corn crops, bountiful as they may be, are not sufficient to meet the landlords' claim for rent and arrears contracted during the last two years of famine, and it is at least not unnatural for the tenant to be unwilling to give up that, without which he must certainly perish. In every direction, the agents of the landlords, armed with the full powers of the law, are at work — everywhere one sees the driver or bailiff " canting" the small patches of oats or potatoes — or keepers placed over the crop, whose charges, in some cases amounting to as much as the rent distrained for, must be paid by the unfortunate tenant. Even the produce of seed, distributed through the agency of benevolent associations, has been totally swept away. To add to the universal distress caused by this system of seizure, eviction is in many cases practised, and not a few of the roofless dwellings which meet the eye have been destroyed at the instance of the landlords, afler turning adrift the miserable inmates ; and this even at a time like the present, when the charity of the whole world has been turned towards the relief of this starving peasantry. Whilst upon the island of Achill, I saw a memorable instance of this course of proceeding, at the wretched fishing village of Kiel, belonging to Sir R. O'Donnell. Here, a few days previous to my visit, some twenty families had been ejected, making, as I was informed, with a previous recent eviction, about
ducted entirely by hand labour. Why should not this be the case in Ire* land, where labour is so superabundant? The seed is also in general strictly preserved, which is not the case here.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you come through Keel on Achill Island, this was a fishing village where, in the autumn of 1847, a traveller witnessed the aftermath of mass eviction. The village belonged to Sir R. O'Donnell. A few days before the visitor arrived, about twenty families had been turned out of their homes. An earlier eviction had already taken place, making roughly forty families ejected in total from this small place. The roofless dwellings stood with their charred timbers, destroyed at the instance of the landlords after the miserable inmates were turned adrift. The same scene met the eye across Mayo and much of Connaught. Landlords' agents, armed with the full powers of the law, were at work in every direction. Bailiffs were canting the small patches of oats or potatoes. Keepers were placed over the crops, whose charges in some cases amounted to as much as the rent distrained for, and these charges had to be paid by the unfortunate tenant. Even the produce of seed distributed through benevolent associations was totally swept away. The corn crops, however bountiful, were not sufficient to meet the landlords' claim for rent and arrears contracted during two years of famine. The tenant was unwilling to give up that without which he must certainly perish. And so eviction followed seizure, all of this at a time when the charity of the whole world had been turned towards the relief of this starving peasantry.
Clifden workhouse closed, expelled inmates shelter in gravel holes

Clifden · town · Galway · 1847

The Clifden Union in Galway was bankrupt, and the wretched inmates of the poor-house had been expelled and the doors closed. Many of these poor creatures took up abode in holes or cavities in a hill side adjoining the town where gravel had been dug, their sunken faces and wasted forms telling a tale of hunger and privation.

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the whole annual value of the Union was expended, £43,617 ; whilst at one period more than two-thirds of the population, 57,253 persons, received daily rations. The net annual valuation for the whole of Connaught does not give more than about 20s. per head for the whole population, while in Leinster it is nearly £S, There are, it must be observed, some electoral divisions in Connaught, which give little more than 5s., and some in the county of Donegal are as low as 3s. It will not then be a matter of surprise, that nearly the whole of the Unions in this province are deepljr in debt, and many bankrupt, and that several of the poor-houses, with scarcely a sixth of their full number of inmates, have been closed against further admissions. At Clifden, in Galway, the Union is bankrupt, and I found that a few days previous to my visit, the wretched inmates of the poor-house had been expelled and the doors closed. Many of these poor creatures had taken up their abode in some holes or cavities in a hill side adjoining the town, where gravel appeared to have been dug. Their sunken faces and wasted forms told too clearly the tale of hunger and privation, and reminded me of the worst scenes I had witnessed, whilst visiting some parts of the country last winter. I cannot easily forget the countenance of one poor lad, about fourteen years of age, who with a hollow choking voice begged of me ^' a little meal to keep the life in him.'' The ghastly livid face and emaciated form, wasted with hunger and sores, of this breathing skeleton, told me that to him this world would soon pass away.
The estates which compose the Union of Clifden are (like most others in Connaught) mortgaged to nearly their full value. The nominal owner of a rent-roll of thousands, lives either in Dublin or abroad, or shut up in his castle, the dependant of the mortgagees, who allow him a pittance of a few hundreds a year. The system of nominal ownership, either of bankrupt residents or of absentees, is certainly one of the greatest impediments to the improvement of Ireland. But, whatever may be the poverty of the nominal possessor, the land has yielded and will yield its produce to some one ; and is not he who receives the produce of the soil, whatever relation he may stand in, bound to exercise the duties which belong to ownership ?

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is Clifden, in Galway, where one of the hardest stories of 1847 took place. The Clifden Union was bankrupt, and a few days before a visitor arrived that autumn, the wretched inmates of the poor-house had been expelled and the doors closed against any further admissions. More than two-thirds of the union's population, 57,253 persons, had been receiving daily rations at one period, and the whole annual value of the union, £43,617, had been spent. Many of those expelled from the poor-house took up abode in holes and cavities in a hillside adjoining the town, where gravel had been dug. Their sunken faces and wasted forms told a tale of hunger and privation. The visitor could not forget one poor lad of about fourteen, with a hollow choking voice, who begged him for a little meal to keep the life in him. The boy's ghastly livid face and emaciated form, wasted with hunger and sores, marked him as what the visitor called a breathing skeleton, unlikely to last long in this world. The estates composing the union were mortgaged to nearly their full value, their nominal owners living in Dublin or abroad or shut up in their castles, dependants of the mortgagees who allowed them a pittance of a few hundreds a year.
Loan funds curragh fishery and workhouse rescue at Achill Sound

Achill Sound · town · Mayo · 1847–1848

A correspondent at Achill Sound proposed a £100 loan to build and fit out ten large curraghs, potentially supporting nearly a thousand people; the loan was subsequently used to take one hundred destitute Achill tenants from Westport workhouse and give them constant fishing employment.

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Whilst standing upon the magnificent cliffs of AchiU, overlooking the wide Atlantic, I saw the deep inlets and bays of that island literally filled with shoals of mackerel and herring, indeed the whole surface of the sea seemed completely alive with them. Around me stood groups of hungry creatures, who looked down upon this inexhaustible supply of food, wholly unable to procure it to allay their cravings. One fishing-boat and three or four curraghs alone were engaged, where there was employment for hundreds, and food for the thousands of hungry creatures on the island. The sums required for the assistance of these fisheries are by no means large. One of your correspondents upon this island, whose wishes you have since attended to, stated that by means of a loan of one hundred pounds, he should be able to have ten large curraghs^ (the boats best adapted to this rocky and dangerous coast) built and completely fitted out with the needful lines, nets, &c., for pursuing the fishing. These ten boats would, on an average, give employment to eight persons each,t representing eighty families of six persons, or four hundred and eighty individuals ; ^^ but,^' added your correspondent, " you may double this, for every family who has employment will support another ;*' thus, nearly one thousand persons would be permanently supported by a loan of one hundred pounds. Besides giving permanent and profitable employment, a large quantity of nutritions food would be added to the failing resources of the country. Your active correspondent at Achill Sound has established a small curing station, which would be sufficient for preserving any quantity not required by the district, or carried into the interior of the country ; and that the markets of this part of Connaught are not over-stocked by native industry, may be illustrated by the fact, that at the sea-port town of Westport (twenty*-five miles distant), a Scotch fishing smack was actually supplying the town with fish.
The shores of Erris were likewise swarming with fish. I

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Coming up now through Achill Sound in Mayo. In the autumn of 1847 a visitor stood on the cliffs of Achill and looked out over the Atlantic. The inlets and bays were filled with shoals of mackerel and herring. The whole surface of the sea seemed alive with them. Around him stood groups of hungry people, looking down at this food, unable to reach it. One fishing-boat and three or four curraghs were all that was working, where there was employment for hundreds and food for the thousands of hungry creatures on the island. A correspondent on the island proposed that a loan of 100 pounds would build and fit out ten large curraghs, the boats best suited to that rocky and dangerous coast, with lines, nets and all that was needed. He calculated eight persons to each boat, supporting 80 families of six, or 480 individuals. Then he added, you may double this, for every family who has employment will support another. Nearly 1,000 people would be permanently supported by that loan. The loan was acted on. The same correspondent at Achill Sound took 100 destitute Achill tenants from Westport workhouse, 25 miles away, and gave them constant employment in the fishery. He also established a small curing station for preserving any catch not needed in the district. At Westport itself, a Scotch fishing smack was supplying the town with fish, showing the markets of this part of Connaught were not over-stocked by native industry.
Temporary workhouse at Binghamstown overwhelmed by evicted poor

Binghamstown · townland · Mayo · 1847

An auxiliary temporary workhouse at Binghamstown, still under construction, had already admitted destitute applicants, with able-bodied men performing tasks for daily meal allowances. It could accommodate only a small portion of the evicted population, and families were found lying in nearby ditches too weak to crawl further.

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Even here, amidst so much positive distress, the labour or workhouse test is found needful ; for almost all parties, from the owner of 800 acres downwards, apply for relief In the workhouse several MuUaroghe families were pointed out to me : one family, consisting of five persons, was found lying in a ditch near the poor-house (about a fortnight previously), unable to crawl any further. By the directions of the Inspecting Officer, who found them, they were carried into the house, as he thought, to die. One child had died, but the mother and other children, although little more than skeletons, were just recovering. Another poor family whom the Inspecting Officer had also found in a ditch near, too weak to crawl further, was shown me. The appearance of the mother was most striking and peculiar: her limbs and body were shrunken to the smallest possible size, and the doctor who happened to be in attendance declared that she could not weigh more than three stone. She, in common with the other inmates, exhibited great pleasure at seeing the Inspecting Officer, of whose kindness they expressed themselves in grateful terms.
Leaving the workhouse, I again proceeded to Belmullet, in the neighbourhood of which I spent some days in further verifying these facts, and thus closed a visit to scenes which it would be difficult to find equalled, even amidst the terrible wretchedness of Ireland.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 2

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here in Binghamstown, in the autumn of 1847, a temporary auxiliary workhouse was still under construction but had already taken in destitute applicants. Able-bodied men were given tasks for daily meal allowances. The place could shelter only a small fraction of the evicted poor in the district, and families who could not get in were found lying in the ditches nearby, too weak to crawl any further. One family of five was found in a ditch about a fortnight before and carried inside on the orders of the Inspecting Officer, who thought they had come there to die. One child had died, but the mother and the other children, little more than skeletons, were just recovering. Another family was found the same way, and the doctor attending said the mother could not weigh more than three stone. Despite everything, the inmates expressed gratitude to the Inspecting Officer for his kindness. The writer left here for Belmulet and closed what he called scenes it would be difficult to find equalled, even amidst the terrible wretchedness of Ireland.
140 famine dead buried along Clifden roads

Clifden · town · Galway · 1847

During the famine winter, an inspector of roads in the neighbourhood of Clifden caused no fewer than 140 bodies to be buried which he found scattered along the highway. Coach drivers reported rarely driving anywhere without seeing dead bodies at the roadside.

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bers are daily added to the class of turnip eaters, for the scanty supply of potatoes or of oats is rapidly diminishing. Employment the labourers of Connaught cannot obtain, although they would cheerfully work at 6d., and even less, per day. Numbers assured me that they would gladly work for their daily food, and I heard of many instances where one quart of meal was all the remuneration that able-bodied men received for their day's work. Unless some immediate steps, therefore, be taken to give remunerative employment to districts like these, I can only look forward to the coming winter as even far more fearful and more fatal than the past. One shrinks from the thought that these dreadful scenes are to be repeated. During that period, the roads in many places became as chamel-hous^is, and several car and coach drivers have assured me that they rarely drove anywhere without seeing dead bodies strewn along the road side, and that in the dark they had even gone over them. A gentleman told me that in the neighbourhood of Clifden, one inspector of roads had caused no less than 140 bodies to be buried, which he found scattered along the highway. In some cases, it is well known, that where all other members of a family have perished, the last survivor has earthed up the door of his miserable cabin, to prevent the ingress of pigs and dogs, and then laid himself down to die in this fearful family vault.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Clifden, the town you are passing through, was the centre of one of the worst scenes of the famine winter of 1847. The labourers of Connaught could not get employment, though they would have worked for 6d. a day or even less. Many said they would gladly work for their daily food, and there were cases where one quart of meal was all an able-bodied man received for a day's work. The roads in many places became what the book calls chanel-housis. Several car and coach drivers told the writer that they rarely drove anywhere without seeing dead bodies strewn along the roadside, and that in the dark they had even gone over them. A gentleman told him that in the neighbourhood of Clifden, one inspector of roads had caused no less than 140 bodies to be buried, which he found scattered along the highway. There were cases where all other members of a family had perished and the last survivor earthed up the door of his cabin, to keep out pigs and dogs, and then laid himself down to die in what the book calls this fearful family vault. The writer could only look forward to the coming winter as even more fearful and more fatal than the past.
Bog huts and extreme hunger near Belmullet

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847

The author visited sod hovels sunk into the bog near Belmullet where families of six to eight lived in spaces as small as seven feet square, with no furniture, no windows, and no chimneys. A dropsy-swollen man near Belmullet described subsisting on withered turnip-tops and seaweed gathered by his daughter from the beach.

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the cold and damp. Alas ! no — rags and tatters are their only garments, and nakedness even is the portion of some, who are obliged to remain in-doors or borrow from their neighbours. I asked a poor inhabitant of one of these hovels near BelmuUet, whose dropsy-swollen body showed the effects of " the hunger," what he and his family, six or seven in number, had to subsist on ? In reply to my question, he pointed to some withered turnip-tops lying in the mud, at the door of the cabin, " Upon these." " And what else ? " I asked. " Yonder's one of the family, seeking for sea-weed, on the beach," said he, stretching out his skinny arm in that direction, where his daughter was busily engaged. " And are there many so badly off? " " Yes, worse, aback in the mountains ; they are dying there every day." How could worse be, when he seemed to be enduring a daily death ? But indeed I knew that there were many worse off " aback in the mountains," and that deaths from starvation had actually occurred.
At Bangor, through the kindness of your correspondent, W. T. Campbell, 1 obtained several accurate particulars relative to the state of the barony, from the police returns. In one district, ** where last year 650 families existed, there are now only 500, half of whom are existing upon the small turnips " before described ; and of this food " not sufficient to last the whole for two months." * In one town-land, " there are eighty-five landholders, and but two stacks of oats, hardly any potatoes, and but few turnips."

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here in 1847, a traveller found families living in sod hovels sunk into the bog. Six or seven people lived in spaces as small as seven feet square, with no furniture, no windows, no chimneys. Their only garments were rags and tatters, and some had nothing at all, forced to stay indoors or borrow clothes from neighbours. He spoke to a man in one of these hovels. The man's body was swollen with dropsy, showing the effects of the hunger. When asked what he and his family had to live on, he pointed to some withered turnip-tops lying in the mud at the door of the cabin, and said, "Upon these." The traveller asked what else. The man stretched out his skinny arm toward the beach, where his daughter was busy gathering seaweed. "Yonder's one of the family, seeking for sea-weed, on the beach," he said. When asked if many others were as badly off, he said, "Yes, worse, aback in the mountains; they are dying there every day." The traveller knew this was true, that deaths from starvation had already occurred. At Bangor, police returns showed that in one district where 650 families had existed the year before, only 500 remained, half living on small turnips, with not enough to last two months.
Death from cold and hunger at Barrack

Barrack · townland · Donegal · 1847

An evicted woman from Mullaroghe testified that her mother died of cold and hunger about three days after Christmas at a place called Barrack, where they had sought shelter after being driven from their home.

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life, also her father and the father of her mother. Her ^ mother had died about three days after Christmas, from
cold and hunger, in a place called Barrack, and she would not have done so had she been at home. They pulled an old chest to pieces, and made a sort of coffin, in which they buried her."

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 2
Famine destitution and relief at the Claddagh

Claddagh · electoral division · Galway · 1846–1847

When William Forster visited the Claddagh fishermen during the famine, he found them in utter destitution, having pawned their nets and boat articles to buy meal. A grant of one hundred pounds enabled them to redeem their nets and resume fishing, doubtless saving hundreds of lives.

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Last year, when William Forster, who sympathized so deeply with the sufierings of the poor Irish, visited this colony of fishermen, he found them in a state of utter destitution. The first shock of the famine, combined with an unfavourable season, and the absence of their usual chief means of barter and support — the potato — had compelled them to pawn their nets and almost every article connected with their boats, for the purpose of purchasing a little meal. Impressed here, as elsewhere, with the necessity of inducing the people to labour for themselves, this opportunity was not neglected, and by means of a grant of one hundred pounds, the Claddagh fishermen were to a great extent enabled to redeem their nets, and the fisheries were resumed ; by this timely grant some hundreds of lives were, I doubt not, saved. Although subject to distress, like every other part of Ireland, this colony has escaped the extreme misery and mortality prevalent around them. No particular distress existed at the time of my visit to the Claddagh. It is difficult to arrive at the truth respecting the alleged gross superstition of these curious people, the more so, as few of them speak English ; but I came to the conclusion that, although extremely ignorant, and sadly under superstitious dominion, the stories so rife respecting them are, to a very great extent, unfounded.* The laws by which this singular community regulate the fishing of the bay of Galway are founded upon observations, made certainly without much reference to the light which free-trade doctrines have of late shed upon the world, but they may bear comparison with some laws which still exist for the protection of fisheries and game in higher quarters. If, as was suggested to me by a friend, some steps could be adopted for giving instruction to the admiral of the colony or his son, who possess great influence, in the most profitable and approved modes of fishing, much good might be effected; but, at the same time, measures must be adopted to provide a market for the increased exertion of these Claddagh men. At the time of my visit, the market of Galway was completely over-stocked with fish, and tons of it were lying unfit for
* A piscatorial school has just been established at the Claddagh, under the care of the monks of the Claddagh convent, which promises to be of jservice.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through the Claddagh, this old fishing quarter of Galway, you are moving through a place that came close to extinction in the famine years. When William Forster visited the Claddagh fishermen in 1846, he found them in utter destitution. The first shock of the famine, combined with a bad season and the loss of the potato, had forced them to pawn their nets and almost every article connected with their boats, just to buy a little meal. A grant of one hundred pounds let them redeem their nets and resume fishing, and by this timely grant, as the author writes, "some hundreds of lives were, I doubt not, saved." By the autumn of 1847, when this account was written, no particular distress existed at the Claddagh, and the colony had escaped the extreme misery and mortality prevalent around them. The author noted that few of the fishermen spoke English, and that stories of their gross superstition were largely unfounded, though they were extremely ignorant and sadly under superstitious dominion. He also observed that Galway market was completely overstocked with fish, with tons of it lying unfit for sale.
Widow's potato crop seized in Erris village

Erris · barony · Mayo · 1847

One poor widow with a large family, whose husband had recently died of fever, had her miserable patch of potatoes seized, depriving her of her only resource for the ensuing winter. The poor-house was thirty miles distant and full.

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One poor widow with a large family, whose husband had recently died of fever, had a miserable patch of potatoes seized, and was thus deprived of her only resource for the ensuing winter. What could she do ? The poor-house was thirty miles distant, and it was full. Though many of these ruined creatures were bewailing their cruel fate, I heard nothing like reproach or reflection upon the author of their misery, and the bailiff told me that he had no fear of molestation in pursuing his calling.
Tn this village fever was terribly prevalent, and the food such as before described, but wanting the sand-eels and seaweed. Advancing further in Erris, the desolation and wretchedness were still more striking. One may indeed at times imagine oneself in a wilderness abandoned to perpetual barrenness and solitude. But here and there scattered over this desolate landscape, little green patches appear unexpectedly where no other sign of man presents itself to you ; as you walk over the bog, and approach nearer to the spot, a curl of smoke arises'* from what you suppose to be a slight rise on the surface.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Assassinations and evictions in Roscommon

Roscommon · town · Roscommon · 1847

Leitrim and Roscommon were noted as exceptions in Connaught for recent fearful instances of assassination. The author specifically links the murders in Roscommon to the ongoing system of eviction and clearing away populations.

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We come now to consider the charge of "brutality" made against the Irish, and the consequent uncertainty of life, even to those who are engaged in seeking their improvement. This is truly a serious charge, and cannot be altogether denied : it is lamentable to think that there are in any part of Ireland men who can be hired to imbrue their hands in the blood of their neighbours. The assassinations which have recently taken place, have justly excited the feelings of strong indignation toward the actors in these scenes of blood ; they have, however, led to a far too general imputation upon the Irish character, and have unduly discouraged the introduction of capital and enterprise. into some parts of Ireland. ^^ It will be found, upon a careful examination into the locality of the acts of violence whfch have been commit* ted, that they are limited to certain counties and districts, and that they leave the major part of Ireland as unstained with the crime of murder as many parts of England.^' Assassination is very unusual in the greater portion of Connaught: Leitrim and Roscommon (in which such fearful instances have just occurred) form the exceptions. In Ulster and Leinster, with the exception of two or three counties, it is also equally rare. Munster, generally speaking, is the seat of those horrible outrages which have made all Ireland appear a land of terror and bloodshed ; but in many parts even of this province a man may pursue his ordinary calling with entire security. Whilst in Tipperary, I met with the Manager of one of the extensive Mining Companies in that county, who had fourteen hundred men in his employ, and I heard from him what I did not anticipate in Tipperary, — a very high character of the conduct and steady industry of the men in his service, whose earnings amounted to from 9s. to 12s. per week. This gentleman had not the slightest apprehension of any personal insecurity^ Although my visit to the province of Munster was too brief to allow me to speak from much personal observation, the information I obtained from all classes and parties, even from some intimately connected with the victims of the late murders, went to prove that most of the cases of outrage which disgrace this province have been connected with the tenure of land, or the relation of landlord and tenant. There have no doubt been cases which derive no s))ade of apology from the imperfection of
*

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Ballina workhouse overcrowding and mass deaths

Ballina · townland · Mayo · 1847

During the famine crisis, Ballina workhouse admitted 200 beyond its capacity of 1,200, while hundreds were refused for lack of room. A total of 1,138 inmates died in the house, and the medical officer was also carried off by disease.

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dreadful 10th of November, one hundred and twenty were admitted beyond the regulated number, hundreds were refused admission for want of room, some unhappy beings perished on the high roads and in the fields. Influenced by terror and dismay — leaving entire districts almost deserted — the better class of farmers, in numbers, sold their property at any sacrifice, and took flight for America, and the humbler classes left the country in masses, hoping to find a happier doom in any other region. This awful state of things continued during the winter and spring, in a greater or less degree. In this Union, three hundred and sixty-seven persons died in the poor-house ; the master of the house also *died. In an adjoining Union, ballina, two hundred were admitted to the house beyond the number it was built for (twelve hundred) ; hundreds were refused admission for want of room, and eleven hundred and thirty-eight died in the house ; the medical officer of the house was also carried off. In another adjoining Union, Ballinrobe, all the officers of the house were swept away, and two hundred and fifty-four inmates of the house perished.''
B

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Ballina, in 1847, the workhouse was built for 1,200 people. During the famine crisis, 200 were admitted beyond that number. Hundreds more were refused admission for want of room. 1,138 inmates died in the house. The medical officer was also carried off by disease. The wider picture was grim across the whole region. On the 10th of November, in one Union, 120 were admitted beyond the regulated number, and hundreds were refused for want of room. Some unhappy beings perished on the high roads and in the fields. The better class of farmers sold their property at any sacrifice and took flight for America. The humbler classes left the country in masses, hoping to find a happier doom in any other region. This awful state of things continued through the winter and spring. In that first Union, 367 persons died in the poor-house, and the master of the house also died. In another adjoining Union, Ballinrobe, all the officers of the house were swept away, and 254 inmates perished.
Devastation at Binghamstown

Binghamstown · townland · Mayo · 1848

The author observed at least thirty roofless houses at Binghamstown, the property of Dennis Bingham, during his February 1848 visit to the Erris district.

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At Binghamstown (the property of Dennis Bingham) I counted at least thirty roofless houses. At a village a few miles further on, held by a middle-man named Lyons, under Colonel Kirkwood, I counted ftiUy as many. This was but the commencement of a scene of desolation and misery which no words can convey even a faint idea of.
At Tiraun, the property of J. Walshe, I counted eight or ten roofless houses very recently thrown down, out of about twenty which had composed the village, and thirteen heads of families are receiving relief under the provisions of the Poor-Law from it.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 2

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Binghamstown, in February 1848, a visitor to the Erris district counted at least thirty roofless houses, all the property of Dennis Bingham. A few miles further on, at a village held by a middle-man named Lyons under Colonel Kirkwood, he counted fully as many again. He wrote that this was but the commencement of a scene of desolation and misery which no words can convey even a faint idea of.
Erris barony: intense misery among bog-dwellers

Erris · barony · Mayo · 1847

The author describes the barony of Erris as a scene of unparalleled human suffering, with widespread famine, fever, and mortality. He compares the condition of the inhabitants unfavorably to Native Americans and enslaved Africans, calling the misery among the bog-dwellers the most intense he had ever witnessed.

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The very great mortality of the past year in this district was confirmed by all with whom I conversed; and the belief seems to be general, that unless immediate steps be taken to relieve the people, deaths will be even more numerous, and the effects of famine far more terrible during the coming winter ; and that instead of twenty thousand inhabitants, ten thousand only will be left. It is a state of things which makes one unhappy to write about, how much more to witness. At Belmullet, upon the inner Mullet (that ultima Thule of human misery), at Bangor, at Rossport, at Pullatomas — everywhere I witnessed the same extent of waste land — the same neglect of cultivated land — everywhere crowds of wretched beings imploring vociferously for food or work, — " Feed us or we die," seems written on the countenances of every one.* I have visited the wasted remnants of the once noble Red Man on his reservation grounds in North America, and explored the *^ negro quarter " of the degraded and enslaved African, but never have I seen misery so intense, or
* It is impossible for any charitable association to supply the yacaum caused by the expiration of the " Temporary Relief Act," which, whatever may be said of it, doubtless saved multitudes of lives. It will no doubt be grateful to the reader to know that the particular attention of the '* Central I^lief Committee of the Society of Friends " has been directed to this suffering district, and that even at this time numbers were relieved by its grants. The very small number of persons to whom funds for distribution in this and similar districts can be entrusted, renders it absolutely impossible to do all that can be desired.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Galway gentleman's house turned manufacturer's warehouse

Galway · city · Galway · 1847

In one place in Galway, the house of one of the first families in the county was converted into a manufacturer's warehouse, with scales in the hall and flax, nets, and linen goods filling the rooms. The ladies had encouraged local manufactures but became over-stocked with unsold articles.

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the capacity and willingness of the poor destitute people not only to learn and to practise arts, but to maintain themselves by them. The great difficulty in the extension of this kind of employment is however found in the greater cheapness of articles made by machinery than by hand-labour. In one place in Galway I found the house of one of the first families in the county literally converted into a manufacturer's warehouse. In the hall hung a large pair of scales, the floor of the dining-room was covered with flax, fishing-nets and spun thread ; whilst a large rice and meal bin occupied the place of the sideboard, and piles of manufactured linen goods were arranged around the room instead of chairs. The ladies of the house had so successfully encouraged manufactures in their neighbourhood, that they had become thoroughly over-stocked with articles for which they could not find a sale at cost price. A gentleman who was with me, conversant with manufactures, stated that they were thoroughly well made, and although very much dearer to the eye than the usual similar articles of the shop, he did not doubt that their durability and excellent quality would prove them cheaper to a purchaser at prices which the noble lady manufacturers would have gladly accepted. The result of these exertions proves satisfactorily the readiness of the people to be employed at even a very low rate of wages, and although the experiment may be said to be a total failure as a commercisd transaction, under this amateur guidance; it has proved a highly beneficial means of employing, and an economical mode of feeding, vast numbers of the destitute. It was not to be supposed that these benevolent exertions could compete successfully, in a pecuniary point of view, with the regular manufactures of Ulster or of England ; but if flax continues to be grown in Connaught, there is no reason why extensive linen manufactures might not be profitably carried on there.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, this city held a striking scene in 1847. The house of one of the first families in the county had been literally converted into a manufacturer's warehouse. A large pair of scales hung in the hall. The dining-room floor was covered with flax, fishing-nets and spun thread. A rice and meal bin stood where the sideboard had been, and piles of linen goods filled the room where chairs once sat. The ladies of the house had encouraged local manufactures among the poor with such success that they became thoroughly overstocked with articles they could not sell even at cost price. A gentleman who was there, conversant with manufactures, said the goods were thoroughly well made. He said they looked dearer than shop articles but their durability and excellent quality would make them cheaper to any buyer, at prices the noble lady manufacturers would gladly have accepted. The experiment was a total failure as a commercial transaction under this amateur guidance. But it proved a highly beneficial means of employing and an economical mode of feeding vast numbers of the destitute. It showed the readiness of the people to work even at very low wages. These benevolent efforts could not compete in cost with the regular manufactures of Ulster or England. But if flax continued to be grown in Connaught, there was no reason why extensive linen manufactures might not be profitably carried on there.
Lord George Hill's estate at Gweedore during famine

near Gweedore · locality · Donegal · 1847

During the famine winter, the poor tenants of Gweedore were suffering but still retained some cows and corn, and had access to a store stocked with food and clothing where they could sell produce at fair prices. The contrast with the adjoining estate of the Marquis of Conyngham illustrated two opposite landlord systems.

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Every word of these statements may be said to convey instruction and reproof. What was done by Foster and Lord Headley might have been done by other landowners with similar success. Their experiments revealed no hidden and mysterious agency by which savages were to be tamed. They did but illustrate the power of well-known principles, — of common humanity, common justice and common sense. Neither were they the first landowners who acted upon these principles and proved their power. Many similar experiments, attended with similar success, had been previously made ; and from the period of Lord Headley's experiment to the present time, there has not been wanting additional testimony of a like kind, to the practicability of raising the character of the most degraded portions of the Irish people, and improving, through their agency, the value of the soil. One of these testimonies, supplied by the admirable proceedings of Lord George Hill, must be referred to. His little book of * Facts from Gweedore ' is well known, and deserves to be more so. The contrast which is presented to the traveller between Lord George Hill's estate and that of the adjoining one, belonging to the Marquis of Conyngham, is a most striking illustration of the working of two opposite systems ; and never, perhaps, could the contrast between them be seen to greater advantage than when I visited them in the midst of the sufferings of last winter. The poor tenants of Gweedore were indeed suffering : they, as well as their neighbours, had lost the crop on which they chiefly depended ; but they had still some property — some cows and a little com — and they had a store well provided with all suitable articles of food and clothing, and where everything they produced could be disposed of at a fair price.* Very different
* Previously they had to travel nearly thirly miles to a market.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You are coming through the locality of Gweedore in Donegal. In the famine winter of 1847, a traveller passed through here and saw two estates side by side, and the contrast between them was, in his words, a most striking illustration of the working of two opposite systems. One was Lord George Hill's estate. The other was the adjoining estate belonging to the Marquis of Conyngham. The poor tenants of Gweedore were suffering. They had lost the crop on which they chiefly depended, like their neighbours. But they still had some property, some cows and a little corn. And they had a store, well provided with all suitable articles of food and clothing, where everything they produced could be disposed of at a fair price. Lord George Hill had written a little book called Facts from Gweedore, which the traveller said deserved to be more widely known. The passage says that what was done here by landowners acting on common humanity, common justice, and common sense might have been done by others with similar success. It required no hidden or mysterious agency. It was not a discovery. It was the application of well-known principles, and it showed the practicability of raising the character of the most degraded portions of the Irish people, and improving, through their agency, the value of the soil. The traveller visited both estates in the midst of the sufferings of that winter and never, perhaps, could the contrast between them be seen to greater advantage.
Westport workhouse overwhelmed by evicted tenants

Westport · town · Mayo · 1847

The Westport poor-house was overwhelmed with admissions of evicted tenants, including many from Keel and Achill. The bankrupt union's workhouse master remonstrated against further admissions due to a lack of clothes and bedding for women and children.

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of the same dismal tales of want and cruel treatment, affecting, by their peculiar harshness, even those who were daily witnesses of similar scenes. Of the 100 persons admitted that day, nearly one-half were the evicted tenantry of Kiel ; and during the previous week 75 cases were admitted from Achill, nearly the whole of them the evicted tenants of the same landlord. It may be proper to state, that nearly all of these poor people were provided by the " driver" who ejected them with a recommendation to the workhouse, but the Union of Westport, like almost every other in this part of Ireland, is terribly in debt, in fact banknipt ; and the master of the house strongly remonstrated against further admissions, declaring that he had " neither clothes nor bedding for the women and children," who formed five- sixths of the admissions.
How little the landlords of this part of Ireland are cognisant of the circumstances of the population on their vast uncultivated or neglected estates, may be judged of by the fact that Sir R. O'Donnell stated in my presence that he was entirely ignorant of the evictions which had taken place in Achill, about 25 miles distant from his residence at Newport, although the poor creatures, in coming to the union-house, must necessarily pass through the town where he resided.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You're coming into Westport in Mayo. In the autumn of 1847, the workhouse here was overwhelmed. On a single day, 100 people were admitted, and nearly half of them were evicted tenants from Keel. The week before, 75 cases came in from Achill, almost all of them tenants of the same landlord. The driver who put them out gave each a recommendation to the workhouse, as if that settled the matter. But the Westport Union was bankrupt, like nearly every other in this part of Ireland. The master of the house strongly remonstrated against taking more people in. He said he had, in his words, "neither clothes nor bedding for the women and children," who made up five sixths of those admitted. There is a further detail that tells you something about the distance between landlord and tenant. Sir R. O'Donnell stated, in the author's presence, that he was entirely ignorant of the evictions in Achill, though they were about 25 miles from his residence at Newport. The people driven out had to pass through the very town where he lived, on their way to the union-house here in Westport, and he had not seen them.
Spade husbandry experiment near Ballina

Ballina · townland · Mayo · 1847–1848

Five hundred acres near Ballina were placed at the disposal of the Society of Friends' Central Relief Committee by landed proprietors to employ starving labourers through spade husbandry rather than gratuitous relief. About four hundred men earned 8d. to 1s. per day cultivating turnips, parsnips, carrots, peas and other crops, with the land offered rent and poor-cess free for one year.

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* Since my former visit a very interesting experiment has been commenced, and is now carrying on in the vicinity of Ballina, Co. Mayo. Five hundred acres of land have been placed at the disposal of the C. B. Committee of the Society of Friends, by a few landed propriet(»rs, for the sake of giving employment rather than gratuitous relief to some of the thousands of willing but unemployed labourers of Mayo. The land thus in course of cultivation is offered rent and poor-cess free for one year. Spade husbandry, in which the men are instructed by one of Lord Clarendon's practical instructors, is alone allowed ; and the crops which are intended to be grown, consisting principally of turnips, parsnips, carrots, peas, &c., with a very small portion of com and flax, will, of course, belong to the Belief Committee.
Accompanied by my friend John Lees, a protestant clergyman of Ballina (whose unremitting and kind-hearted exertions for the relief and improvement of the poor of Mayo are too well known to require notice from me), I visited several parties of the men who were employed. On one farm four sets of men of fifteen each, on another sixty men, were engaged in digging at one long trench ; and it does but need to bring the most confirmed believer in the inherent indolence of the Celt, to witness the active industry of these poor men, to convince him that even in Ireland he will work as well as a Saxon, provided he can feel assured of a fair remuneration for his labours.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, five hundred acres were placed at the disposal of the Society of Friends' Central Relief Committee by a few landed proprietors in 1847. The land was offered rent and poor-cess free for one year, to give employment rather than gratuitous relief to the thousands of willing but unemployed labourers of Mayo. About four hundred men earned 8d. to 1s. per day cultivating turnips, parsnips, carrots, peas, and a small portion of corn and flax, using spade husbandry alone. One of Lord Clarendon's practical instructors taught the men, and the crops belonged to the Relief Committee. A visitor who came here with John Lees, a Protestant clergyman of Ballina, watched four sets of fifteen men on one farm and sixty men on another, all digging at one long trench. He wrote that it would take only seeing these men at work to convince "the most confirmed believer in the inherent indolence of the Celt" that a man in Ireland "will work as well as a Saxon, provided he can feel assured of a fair remuneration for his labours."
Starvation diet in Erris and the Mullet

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847

Around ten thousand people in Erris were living on turnip-tops, sand-eels, and sea-weed, a diet considered unfit for the meanest animal. In many cases even this scanty food was taken from neighbours hardly richer than themselves, with the daring of absolute necessity, at noon-day.

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This barony is situated upon the extreme north-west coast of Mayo, bounded on two sides by the Atlantic ocean. The population last year was computed at about 28,000 ; of that number, it is said, at least 2,000 have emigrated, principally to England, being too poor to proceed to America ; and that 6,000 have perished by starvation^ dysentery , and fever. There is left a miserable remnant of little more than 20,000 ; of whom 10,000, at least, are, strictly speaking, on the very ' verge of starvation. Ten thousand people within forty-eight hours' journey of the metropolis of the world, living, or rather starving, upon turnip-tops, sand-eels, and sea-weed, a diet which no one in England would consider fit for the meanest animal which he keeps. And let it not be supposed that of this famine diet they have enough, or that each of these poor wretches has a little plot of turnips on which he may feed at his pleasure. His scanty meal is, in many cases, taken from a neighbour hardly richer than himself, not indeed at night, but, with the daring of absolute necessity, at noon-day.*
On entering the houseless and uncultivated region of Erris, the traveller is reminded of the wilds of Canada : for some miles hardly an acre of cultivated land or the appearance of

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Close to Belmullet, in the autumn of 1847, the barony of Erris held a population that had been computed at about 28,000 the year before. By now, it was said that 2,000 had emigrated, mostly to England, being too poor to reach America, and that 6,000 had perished by starvation, dysentery, and fever. That left little more than 20,000, and of those, at least 10,000 were on the very verge of starvation, living on turnip-tops, sand-eels, and sea-weed. The writer called it "a diet which no one in England would consider fit for the meanest animal which he keeps." Even that scanty meal was not freely available. In many cases it was taken from a neighbour hardly richer, "not indeed at night, but, with the daring of absolute necessity, at noon-day." On entering the houseless and uncultivated region of Erris, the traveller was reminded of the wilds of Canada, with hardly an acre of cultivated land for some miles.
Extreme want of clothing in Sligo and Mayo

Sligo · town · Sligo · 1847

The author observed in portions of Sligo and Mayo full-grown children entirely naked, women and girls with only a single thin garment, and great boys partially covered by a long-tailed coat. The poor generally were without bed-clothes, and the want of clothing was equalled only by the want of food.

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usually manufactured are strong and wanUi and peculiarly adapted to the wants of the people ; and it has often appeared to me very desirable that the funds of the various Ladies^ Clothing Associations should be expended upon these homespun articles, rather than in the purchase of ready made clothing, which is often quite unsuited to the purpose ; and although these home-spun articles may be a little dearer per yard, they will ultimately prove much more economical. A very large amount of real good has been effected by the various Ladies^ Clothing Associations, perhaps not least, by the encouragement of industrial employment; but I think in this respect they would have done still more had they directed their attention mainly to the manufacture of articles which they themselves could have purchased for the clothing of the naked. I believe they would have thus obtained the most suitable articles for their purpose, and have obviated the great difficulty which has existed in finding a market for the goods manufactured through their instrumentality. Throughout Erris there exists a native manufacture of coarse woollen cloth : a stimulus to its manufacture would prove of the highest benefit, and give a supply of warm material to any Clothing Association who might turn their s^ttentioif to that district. And here I would observe that the want of clothing is only equalled by the want of food ; this struck me most forcibly in portions of Sligo and Mayo, in some parts of which I saw several full-grown children entirely naked, and many poor women and girls whose clothing consisted of a single thin garment, and great boys, partially covered by a long-tailed coat. The poor generally may be said to be without bed-clothes.
Such, then, appear to me to be tlie means at our command for the relief of the inhabitants of Connaught during the coming winter ; but it is of the highest importance that immediate steps should be taken to make that great storehouse of wealth — the soil — available for the feeding of the starving multitudes. It is most distressing to think what sufferings have been endured by the past generations of the Irish people — as well as by the present — what numbers of lives have been sacrificed or shortened by the unwillingness or inability of the owners of property to discharge the commonest duties belonging to their position.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Sligo, this town and the neighbouring parts of Mayo were, in the autumn of 1847, scenes of desperate want. A visitor that year saw full-grown children entirely naked in the streets. Many poor women and girls wore only a single thin garment, and great boys were partially covered by nothing more than a long-tailed coat. The poor generally were without bed-clothes of any kind. The want of clothing, the author wrote, was equalled only by the want of food. He believed the Ladies Clothing Associations had done real good, but thought they should have bought homespun woollen cloth rather than ready-made clothing, which was often unsuited to the people's needs. Throughout Erris there was a native manufacture of coarse woollen cloth, and a stimulus to it, he argued, would give a supply of warm material to any association that turned its attention there. Behind all this lay his harder judgement, that generations of suffering had been endured through the unwillingness or inability of property owners to discharge the commonest duties of their position.
Evictions and fever in Erris village on Sir R. Palmer's estate

Erris · barony · Mayo · 1847

A village in the mountains of Erris on the property of non-resident landlord Sir R. Palmer suffered deplorable conditions. The landlord's driver was seizing crops of oats and potatoes, appointing keepers whose charges were added to rent, and tenants unable to pay faced having their crops canted and being evicted. Fever was terribly prevalent.

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human residence greets the eye. Yet this district is reported by the Waste Land Commissioners as peculiarly capable of improvement. After some miles ride I found a resting place for my horse, and leaving him to bait, explored, in the mountains, a village upon the property of Sir R. Palmer, a non-resident proprietor, who is said to have an income of many thousands from this county, but is doing nothing to improve his estate, or to give employment to this starving portion of his tenantry. Most of the inhabitants of this village were owing a year and a halfs rent, for their "sums" of land (uncertain quantities), for which they generally paid from £3 to £8 per year. The condition of the people was deplorable ; and the last year had not left them the means of meeting this demand. The landlord's "driver" was pursuing his calling, seizing almost every little patch of oats or potatoes, and appointing keepers whose charges, amounting to 45s. for the fifteen days allowed between seizure and sale, are added to the rent, and unless the tenant can raise a sum sufficient to satisfy the landlord and his bailiff, his whole crop is liable to be " canted " and himself and family to be evicted.
One poor widow with a large family, whose husband had recently died of fever, had a miserable patch of potatoes seized, and was thus deprived of her only resource for the ensuing winter. What could she do ? The poor-house was thirty miles distant, and it was full. Though many of these ruined creatures were bewailing their cruel fate, I heard nothing like reproach or reflection upon the author of their misery, and the bailiff told me that he had no fear of molestation in pursuing his calling.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Belmullet fish curing station yields little in first year

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847–1848

A government curing station was established at Belmullet to give the remote district a market for fish, but in nearly a year only £126 worth of fish was offered for sale, attributed to the short trial and extraordinary distress of the people.

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advancement of small sums of money to the fishermen. At Belmullet, for example, where a curing station has been established (thus giving to this remote district, what nothing else could have done, a market), one hundred and twentysix pounds' worth of fish is the whole quantity, as the agent informed me, which has been ofiered for sale at the station since its establishment, nearly a year ago. This may appear at first sight discouraging; the short period of trial and the extraordinary distress of the past year are, I think, sufficient to account for it, and we can hardly expect the starving people to buy nets or lines, nor should we expect the Government to lend or give money for this purpose. Still, it is to be hoped that it will not be deterred from giving further encouragement to the fisheries, by the erection of piers, and the establishment of curing stations, since there appears no plan by which the Government can effect so much good at the same cost.
Loans, of small amount, to trust-worthy persons, who would engage in the fisheries, or in any other profitable emplojrment of the destitute, to whose wants you would otherwise have to administer gratuitous relief, seem to be suitable and legitimate appropriations of a portion of your funds. There can be little doubt that if once it were well established that capital could be profitably employed in these channels, it would naturally flow into them. But in the present condition of Ireland we require something like the priming of the pump to bring the existing machinery into action. Your loans would give temporary employment to a considerable extent, and the experiments furnish data which might lead to the most extensive and permanent employment of the people.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here at Belmullet, a government curing station was set up to give this remote district a market for fish, something nothing else could have done. Yet in nearly a year, as the agent told the author, only one hundred and twenty six pounds' worth of fish was offered for sale there. That may sound discouraging, but the short period of trial and the extraordinary distress of the past year account for it — as the writer put it, "we can hardly expect the starving people to buy nets or lines." He hoped the Government would not be deterred from further encouragement of the fisheries, since there appeared no plan by which it could do so much good at the same cost. He also argued for small loans to trustworthy persons who would engage in the fisheries or other profitable work among the destitute, calling it "something like the priming of the pump to bring the existing machinery into action," loans that would give temporary employment and furnish data for more lasting work.
Extreme want of clothing in Mayo

Mayo · parish · Mayo · 1847

The author observed in portions of Sligo and Mayo full-grown children entirely naked, women and girls with only a single thin garment, and great boys partially covered by a long-tailed coat. The poor generally were without bed-clothes, and the want of clothing was equalled only by the want of food.

Read the passage

usually manufactured are strong and wanUi and peculiarly adapted to the wants of the people ; and it has often appeared to me very desirable that the funds of the various Ladies^ Clothing Associations should be expended upon these homespun articles, rather than in the purchase of ready made clothing, which is often quite unsuited to the purpose ; and although these home-spun articles may be a little dearer per yard, they will ultimately prove much more economical. A very large amount of real good has been effected by the various Ladies^ Clothing Associations, perhaps not least, by the encouragement of industrial employment; but I think in this respect they would have done still more had they directed their attention mainly to the manufacture of articles which they themselves could have purchased for the clothing of the naked. I believe they would have thus obtained the most suitable articles for their purpose, and have obviated the great difficulty which has existed in finding a market for the goods manufactured through their instrumentality. Throughout Erris there exists a native manufacture of coarse woollen cloth : a stimulus to its manufacture would prove of the highest benefit, and give a supply of warm material to any Clothing Association who might turn their s^ttentioif to that district. And here I would observe that the want of clothing is only equalled by the want of food ; this struck me most forcibly in portions of Sligo and Mayo, in some parts of which I saw several full-grown children entirely naked, and many poor women and girls whose clothing consisted of a single thin garment, and great boys, partially covered by a long-tailed coat. The poor generally may be said to be without bed-clothes.
Such, then, appear to me to be tlie means at our command for the relief of the inhabitants of Connaught during the coming winter ; but it is of the highest importance that immediate steps should be taken to make that great storehouse of wealth — the soil — available for the feeding of the starving multitudes. It is most distressing to think what sufferings have been endured by the past generations of the Irish people — as well as by the present — what numbers of lives have been sacrificed or shortened by the unwillingness or inability of the owners of property to discharge the commonest duties belonging to their position.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Landlord's ignorance of evictions near Newport

Newport · town · Mayo · 1847

Sir R. O'Donnell, the nominal owner of the Achill estates where the evictions occurred, resided in Newport about 25 miles away. He claimed ignorance of the evictions, despite the evicted tenants having to pass through Newport to reach the Westport workhouse.

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How little the landlords of this part of Ireland are cognisant of the circumstances of the population on their vast uncultivated or neglected estates, may be judged of by the fact that Sir R. O'Donnell stated in my presence that he was entirely ignorant of the evictions which had taken place in Achill, about 25 miles distant from his residence at Newport, although the poor creatures, in coming to the union-house, must necessarily pass through the town where he resided.
I have stated these circumstances as affording a striking example of the working of laws relative to landed property, over which the hereditary owner has no controul. He is the inheritor of very extensive entailed estates (130,000 acres), deeply encumbered before coming into his possession, and few men of his class are struggling more earnestly or working more zealously to obtain a sound position, and few men would be more benefited (and of this I believe he is sensible) by the removal of every restriction, and every privilege by which the system of mere nominal ownership is maintained in Ireland. To be able to sell every acre of land on which he has not the capital to enable him to discharge the duties of ownership,, would be alike a blessing to himself and people of Mayo. His lands, if brought under fair remunerative cultivation, would supply employment directly and indirectly, to all the unemployed thousands living upon them ; and the human beings whom it now seems to be his policy to drive from his property, would then become a source of wealth, and their petty holdings might resemble the cottage

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is Newport, a town the road passes through in Mayo. In 1847, Sir R. O'Donnell lived here. He was the nominal owner of the Achill estates, about 25 miles away, 130,000 acres, entailed and deeply encumbered before it even came to him. He had no control over the estate, the laws gave him none. He said in the writer's presence that he was entirely ignorant of the evictions that had taken place on those Achill lands. Yet the poor creatures who were turned out had to pass through Newport itself to reach the workhouse at Westport. They walked past the town where he lived. The writer saw in this a striking example of how the laws of landed property worked in Ireland. The hereditary owner had no control. Few men of his class were struggling more earnestly to obtain a sound position. Few men, the writer believed, would be more benefited by the removal of every restriction and privilege that kept the system of mere nominal ownership in place. If he could sell every acre he had not the capital to manage, it would be a blessing to himself and to the people of Mayo. His lands, under fair cultivation, would supply employment to the thousands living on them. The people it now seemed his policy to drive away would become a source of wealth.
The Claddagh fishing colony of Galway

Claddagh · electoral division · Galway · 1847

The Claddagh fishermen, stretching from Galway town along the coast, were a distinct, endogamous community of expert fishermen who depended entirely on fishing. They possessed about one thousand well-built boats called 'hookers' and regulated the fishing of Galway Bay under their own laws and an admiral.

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found from inquiries, that at least three thousand of the population scattered along its rugged coast might at once find employment or support by means of the fisheries ; and knowing the large share of your attention which this barony has always claimed, and the number of persons who were kept alive at the time of my visit by the grants of food made by your committee, I felt strongly that the encouragement of the fisheries and native manufactures would be a still more effectual mode of supporting a large portion of the population ; especially, as, in your correspondent at Bangor, you have an agent at once efficient and trustworthy, as well as deeply interested in the welfare and improvement of the poorer classes. It has been a source of much pleasure to me to find, since my return, that his services have been engaged for the purpose of carrying out these views.* It may be well to remark that the small boats or curraghs are not adapted for the deep-sea fisheries, and as they can make available only a very small portion of the riches of the sea, it is to be regretted that private enterprise has not seconded the judicious assistance afforded by the Government, in places where, as at Belmullet, a constant market is provided. Under good leadership the fishermen of this coast are expert and courageous, and an outlay of a few hundred pounds in larger fishing boats calculated for the cod and ling banks, would prove, as I was assured by the Government agent and other persons conversant with fishing, a very profitable trade. In connexion with the fisheries of Connaught, I will here refer to the Gladdaghf fishermen of Galway, a peculiar and distinct race, far superior as fishermen to the rest of their class. In place of the small boats and curraghs used elsewhere, they possess well-built fishing boats — " hookers," — which are considered by nautical men as models of combined strength and beauty. The little colony of these men, stretching from the town of Galway for some miles along the coast, live apart from the rest of the inhabitants, always marry among themselves, and unlike the other fishermen of Connaught, who generally hold some land, depend entirely upon fishing for support. They have at least one thousand
* This experiment appears likely to be very successful, and gives employment to a large number of persons. The amount of fish obtainable exceeds the highest calculations.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you come through the electoral division of Claddagh, along the coast from Galway town, this was the ground of a fishing community unlike any other in Connaught. In 1847, the Claddagh fishermen were described as a peculiar and distinct race, far superior as fishermen to the rest of their class. The little colony stretched from the town of Galway for some miles along the coast, living apart from the rest of the inhabitants. They always married among themselves. Unlike other fishermen of Connaught, who generally held some land, the Claddagh people depended entirely upon fishing for support. In place of the small boats and curraghs used elsewhere, they possessed well-built fishing boats called hookers, considered by nautical men as models of combined strength and beauty. They had at least one thousand of them. The wider coast was in harder circumstances. At the time of the visit, people were being kept alive by grants of food from a relief committee. The writer of this account believed at least three thousand of the population scattered along the rugged coast might find employment or support through the fisheries. He noted that small boats and curraghs were not adapted for deep-sea work and could draw on only a very small portion of the riches of the sea. He argued that an outlay of a few hundred pounds in larger fishing boats, calculated for the cod and ling banks, would prove a profitable trade. He was assured of this by the Government agent and others conversant with fishing. Under good leadership, the fishermen of this coast were expert and courageous.
Lord George Hill's estate: rundale and land subdivision

near Gweedore · locality · Donegal

Before Lord George Hill purchased the Gweedore estate, neglect had led to extreme subdivision of holdings under the rundale system, with divisions shrinking from a 'cow's grass' to a 'cow's toe' or 'skiberleen.' One man reportedly held land in forty different places and gave up trying to find his possessions.

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* Owing to entire neglect, previous to Lord G. Hill's becoming the purchaser, the inhabitants had divided and subdivided their little holdings of land until the divisions had gone on from a ''cow's grass" to a ''cow's foot," a " cow's toe," and a " skiberleen " (literally the shred of a coat). The land was held in " rundale." One man is stated to have had his holdings in forty different places, and despairing of ever finding his possessions he had given up the vain pureuit. With such a prospect there seemed little chance for improvement.
6$

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You are coming through Gweedore in Donegal. Before Lord George Hill bought this estate, the land here was held under the rundale system, and neglect had let holdings divide and subdivide until a plot shrank from a "cow's grass" to a "cow's toe" or what they called a "skiberleen". One man was said to hold land in forty different places and gave up trying to find it all. There seemed little chance for improvement.
Carrick-on-Shannon workhouse besieged by fever-stricken poor

Carrick-on-Shannon · town · Leitrim · 1847

The Carrick-on-Shannon union-house was in a miserable state with doors closed against further admissions. Though built for seven hundred, it held only 280 inmates, while seventy or eighty wretched beings implored admission in vain, many in various stages of fever which was terribly prevalent in the neighbourhood.

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I will here refer, although somewhat out of place, to the condition of the union-houses of Connaught. I have already stated that 0¥ring to the want of funds, great difficulty exists in many of the Unions in providing for the inmates, but 1 am happy in being able to state that a large number are well managed, and are in an improved condition, as compared with last year. The Union-houses of Sligo and Boyle are in beautiful order. The worst which I visited was that of Carrickupon-Shannon : it was in a miserable state, and the doors were closed against further admissions ; and although built for seven hundred, had but two hundred and eighty inmates ; the gates were besieged by seventy or eighty wretched beings who in vain implored for admission. Numbers of them were in various stages of fever, which was terribly prevalent in the neighbourhood, and the fever sheds over-crowded. Two months before my visit, the doors of the poor-house were opened and the inmates expelled, entailing upon them most dire misery. Stem necessity has, in a considerable degree, overcome the strong prejudices of the poor people to enter these houses, and they are now generally full.* ^
Nearly two-thirds of the inmates of the Union-houses of Connaught are, as may be expected, children, many of them orphans. The neglected condition of the children in the Union-houses is a subject which often struck me as deserving serious attention. In many Unions, owing to their bankrupt state, there are no books, and no means whatever for providing the necessary books and school requisites ; and thus we may see hundreds of children wholly idle and unemployed, where a few pounds expense would enable them to be taught.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog
Industrial manufactures at Newport, Mayo

Newport · town · Mayo · 1847

The Rector of Newport promoted industrial employment to save people from the demoralising effects of gratuitous relief, converting raw Mayo men into skilled workmen. He procured a workman from Belfast and established a small factory producing handspun linens, including Russian patterns, with great success.

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Leaving the subject of the fisheries, I turn to that of manufactures, which seems to be open to us as a means of immediate relief by employment. For the information of some readers it may be well to x-emark, that the people of Connaught (as indeed of most other parts of Ireland) are familiar with the use of the loom ; their clothing has generally been of native manufacture, and this kind of employment appears particularly congenial to their habits. This may account in part for the extraordinary success which has attended the exertions of the numerous clergymen and ladies, who have laboured most strenuously to promote industrial employment, in order to save their people from the demoralising effects of a gratuitous system of relief. I have previously mentioned the admirable exertions of the Rector of Newport. In that district, owing to the extreme poverty of the people, their native manufactures were of the rudest description, and it required no little firmness and patience on his part to convert the raw Mayo men into skilled workmen and artisans; but to a very great extent he has succeeded. He procured in the first instance a competent workman from Belfast, and obtained patterns of handspun linens of various kinds, including the Russian, which he has imitated in his little factory at Newport with great success. Similar and almost equally well directed efforts have been made in nearly every direction in Connaught, and have proved
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Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you come through Newport, this is a town where, in 1847, a small factory made handspun linens. The people of Connaught were familiar with the loom. Their clothing had generally been of native manufacture, and this kind of employment suited their habits. The Rector of Newport had already been working hard to promote industrial employment, to save his people from what he called the demoralising effects of a gratuitous system of relief. In his district the people were extremely poor, and their native manufactures were of the rudest description. It took firmness and patience to convert the raw Mayo men into skilled workmen and artisans, but he succeeded to a great extent. He procured a competent workman from Belfast, and obtained patterns of handspun linens of various kinds, including the Russian. He imitated these in his little factory at Newport with great success. Similar efforts were made in nearly every direction in Connaught, by clergymen and ladies who laboured strenuously to promote industrial employment, and the results proved the enterprise was well directed.
Landlord dies of fever at Binghamstown poor-house

Binghamstown · townland · Mayo · 1847

The nominal owner of a rent-roll of £500 a year died of fever while serving as master of the temporary poor-house at Binghamstown. He had formerly been a Justice of the Peace, illustrating the impoverishment of landlords in the Erris district.

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* A short time previouslv to mv second visit, the owner (nominally) of a rent-roll of £ 500 a-year died of fever, in the capacity of master of the temporary poor-house at Binghamstown. He was formerly a Justice of the Peace. In another case, the owner of 300 acres of land applied tu the Board of Guardians for out-door relief. The Government Inspecting Officer, under date of the 13th of November, says of this district, in his Beports to the Poor-Law Commissioners, " There U no proprietor who takes the Uatt interest in the welfare of the unfortunate poor of this district,"
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Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here in 1847, a landlord with a rent-roll of 500 pounds a year died of fever while working as master of the temporary poor-house at Binghamstown. He had been a Justice of the Peace, so a man of standing reduced to running relief for the destitute. In the same Erris district, another owner of 300 acres of land applied to the Board of Guardians for out-door relief. The Government Inspecting Officer wrote in his report of the 13th of November that there was no proprietor who took the least interest in the welfare of the unfortunate poor of this district.
Bangor Erris: waste land and crowds imploring for food

Bangor · town · Mayo · 1847

The author visited Bangor Erris and witnessed extensive waste land, neglect of cultivated land, and crowds of wretched people vociferously imploring for food or work. He describes the scene as part of a circuit of misery across the Erris district.

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The very great mortality of the past year in this district was confirmed by all with whom I conversed; and the belief seems to be general, that unless immediate steps be taken to relieve the people, deaths will be even more numerous, and the effects of famine far more terrible during the coming winter ; and that instead of twenty thousand inhabitants, ten thousand only will be left. It is a state of things which makes one unhappy to write about, how much more to witness. At Belmullet, upon the inner Mullet (that ultima Thule of human misery), at Bangor, at Rossport, at Pullatomas — everywhere I witnessed the same extent of waste land — the same neglect of cultivated land — everywhere crowds of wretched beings imploring vociferously for food or work, — " Feed us or we die," seems written on the countenances of every one.* I have visited the wasted remnants of the once noble Red Man on his reservation grounds in North America, and explored the *^ negro quarter " of the degraded and enslaved African, but never have I seen misery so intense, or
* It is impossible for any charitable association to supply the yacaum caused by the expiration of the " Temporary Relief Act," which, whatever may be said of it, doubtless saved multitudes of lives. It will no doubt be grateful to the reader to know that the particular attention of the '* Central I^lief Committee of the Society of Friends " has been directed to this suffering district, and that even at this time numbers were relieved by its grants. The very small number of persons to whom funds for distribution in this and similar districts can be entrusted, renders it absolutely impossible to do all that can be desired.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Coming up now is Bangor, in Mayo, a town the road passes through. In the autumn of 1847 an author came through here and what he saw stayed with him. He had been making a circuit of the Erris district, through Belmullet on the inner Mullet, through Bangor, through Rossport, through Pullatomas. Everywhere he went he saw the same thing: waste land stretching out, cultivated land left neglected, and crowds of wretched people imploring vociferously for food or for work. The mortality of the past year in this district was confirmed by everyone he spoke with, and the belief was general that unless immediate steps were taken, deaths would be even more numerous and the effects of famine far more terrible in the coming winter. They said that instead of 20,000 inhabitants, 10,000 only would be left. He wrote that it was a state of things that makes one unhappy to write about, how much more to witness. On the countenance of every person he met, the words seemed written: "Feed us or we die." He had visited the wasted remnants of the once noble Red Man on his reservation grounds in North America, and explored the negro quarter of the degraded and enslaved African, but never had he seen misery so intense. The Temporary Relief Act had expired, and whatever could be said of it, it had doubtless saved multitudes of lives. The Central Relief Committee of the Society of Friends had directed its particular attention to this suffering district, and even at that time numbers were relieved by its grants. But the very small number of persons to whom funds for distribution in this and similar districts could be entrusted made it absolutely impossible to do all that could be desired.
Over-stocked fish market at Galway

Galway · city · Galway · 1847

At the time of the visit, the Galway market was completely over-stocked with fish from the Claddagh fishermen, with tons lying unfit for use and disgusting effluvia. The author noted the lack of a curing station and the need for railway connection to Dublin.

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Last year, when William Forster, who sympathized so deeply with the sufierings of the poor Irish, visited this colony of fishermen, he found them in a state of utter destitution. The first shock of the famine, combined with an unfavourable season, and the absence of their usual chief means of barter and support — the potato — had compelled them to pawn their nets and almost every article connected with their boats, for the purpose of purchasing a little meal. Impressed here, as elsewhere, with the necessity of inducing the people to labour for themselves, this opportunity was not neglected, and by means of a grant of one hundred pounds, the Claddagh fishermen were to a great extent enabled to redeem their nets, and the fisheries were resumed ; by this timely grant some hundreds of lives were, I doubt not, saved. Although subject to distress, like every other part of Ireland, this colony has escaped the extreme misery and mortality prevalent around them. No particular distress existed at the time of my visit to the Claddagh. It is difficult to arrive at the truth respecting the alleged gross superstition of these curious people, the more so, as few of them speak English ; but I came to the conclusion that, although extremely ignorant, and sadly under superstitious dominion, the stories so rife respecting them are, to a very great extent, unfounded.* The laws by which this singular community regulate the fishing of the bay of Galway are founded upon observations, made certainly without much reference to the light which free-trade doctrines have of late shed upon the world, but they may bear comparison with some laws which still exist for the protection of fisheries and game in higher quarters. If, as was suggested to me by a friend, some steps could be adopted for giving instruction to the admiral of the colony or his son, who possess great influence, in the most profitable and approved modes of fishing, much good might be effected; but, at the same time, measures must be adopted to provide a market for the increased exertion of these Claddagh men. At the time of my visit, the market of Galway was completely over-stocked with fish, and tons of it were lying unfit for
* A piscatorial school has just been established at the Claddagh, under the care of the monks of the Claddagh convent, which promises to be of jservice.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As the road brings you through Galway, the story here is of the Claddagh fishermen and a market that could not hold what they caught. In 1847, the year of this visit, the market was completely over-stocked with fish. Tons of it lay unfit for use. The year before, William Forster, who sympathized deeply with the poor Irish, visited the colony of fishermen and found them in utter destitution. The first shock of the famine, an unfavourable season, and the loss of their chief means of barter and support, the potato, had compelled them to pawn their nets and almost every article connected with their boats, to buy a little meal. A grant of one hundred pounds let them redeem their nets to a great extent, and the fisheries resumed. By this timely grant, the author says, some hundreds of lives were saved. At the time of the visit, no particular distress existed at the Claddagh, though the colony had not escaped distress altogether. The author found the stories rife about the people's gross superstition to be largely unfounded, though he judged them extremely ignorant and sadly under superstitious dominion. Few of them spoke English. The community regulated the fishing of the bay by laws founded on old observations, which the author says might bear comparison with laws still existing for the protection of fisheries and game in higher quarters. A friend suggested that if instruction could be given to the admiral of the colony or his son, who possessed great influence, in the most profitable and approved modes of fishing, much good might be effected. But measures had to be adopted to provide a market for the increased exertion of these men, because the market was completely over-stocked with fish, and tons of it were lying unfit for use.
Protestant clergyman's linen manufactory at Newport

Newport · town · Mayo · 1846–1847

The Protestant clergyman at Newport, G. R. Gildea, established a small linen manufactory employing hand-loom weavers. During the past winter nearly 700 women were engaged in hand skutching and spinning flax, earning from 3s. to 3s. 6d. per week.

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omit to mention the exertions of the protestant clergyman there (G. R. Gildea) ; they are indeed above all praise. He has established a small linen manufactory, which employs a considerable number of hand-loom weavers. During the past winter, nearly 700 women were engaged in hand skutching and spinning flax, who earned from 3s. to 3s. 6d. per week. This gentleman, like many others, most strongly objected to the distribution of gratuitous relief. But this doctrine, of course, implies that work must be provided for the starving people, who are wholly unable to provide it for themselves.
The landlords of Mayo, as well as of many other portions of Connaught, as a class (there are many noble exceptions who feel and see the impolicy and evil of such proceedings), are pursuing a course which cannot fail to add to the universal wretchedness and poverty which exist. The corn crops, bountiful as they may be, are not sufficient to meet the landlords' claim for rent and arrears contracted during the last two years of famine, and it is at least not unnatural for the tenant to be unwilling to give up that, without which he must certainly perish. In every direction, the agents of the landlords, armed with the full powers of the law, are at work — everywhere one sees the driver or bailiff " canting" the small patches of oats or potatoes — or keepers placed over the crop, whose charges, in some cases amounting to as much as the rent distrained for, must be paid by the unfortunate tenant. Even the produce of seed, distributed through the agency of benevolent associations, has been totally swept away. To add to the universal distress caused by this system of seizure, eviction is in many cases practised, and not a few of the roofless dwellings which meet the eye have been destroyed at the instance of the landlords, afler turning adrift the miserable inmates ; and this even at a time like the present, when the charity of the whole world has been turned towards the relief of this starving peasantry. Whilst upon the island of Achill, I saw a memorable instance of this course of proceeding, at the wretched fishing village of Kiel, belonging to Sir R. O'Donnell. Here, a few days previous to my visit, some twenty families had been ejected, making, as I was informed, with a previous recent eviction, about

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you come through Newport in Mayo, this was a place where one man tried to give work to people who had none. G. R. Gildea, the Protestant clergyman here, established a small linen manufactory that employed a considerable number of hand-loom weavers. During the past winter, nearly 700 women were engaged in hand skutching and spinning flax. They earned from 3s. to 3s. 6d. per week. Gildea, like many others, most strongly objected to the distribution of gratuitous relief. But that doctrine, of course, implied that work must be provided for the starving people, who were wholly unable to provide it for themselves. The landlords of Mayo, and much of the rest of Connaught, were pursuing a course that could only add to the universal wretchedness and poverty. The corn crops, bountiful as they might be, were not sufficient to meet the landlords' claims for rent and arrears contracted during the last two years of famine. It was at least not unnatural for the tenant to be unwilling to give up that, without which he must certainly perish. In every direction, the agents of the landlords, armed with the full powers of the law, were at work. Everywhere one saw the driver or bailiff "canting" the small patches of oats or potatoes, or keepers placed over the crop, whose charges in some cases amounted to as much as the rent distrained for, and had to be paid by the unfortunate tenant. Even the produce of seed distributed through benevolent associations was totally swept away. Eviction was in many cases practised, and not a few of the roofless dwellings that met the eye had been destroyed at the instance of the landlords, after turning adrift the miserable inmates, and this at a time when the charity of the whole world had been turned towards the relief of this starving peasantry.
Fear of rent seizure in Mayo

Mayo · parish · Mayo · 1847

Cottiers in Mayo were discouraged from cultivating their small plots of land due to fears that their crops would be swept away for rent. This well-grounded apprehension led to accusations of idleness against the farmers.

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We may confidently ask, is this the conduct of a people without industry, self-reliance, or the kindliest feelings of our nature ? If it be said, as it may with truth be said, that the ^ Irishman in America is moulded by the circumstances that surround him, is it not equally true that he is moulded in Ireland by the circumstances which attend him there ? We do not attempt to prove that the Irishman is what he should be, but rather to show of what he is capable. In the social condition of Ireland, the capital and skill of a middle class are absent ; there are few to sympathize with or to direct the working part of the community, and there is on their part a want of confidence in the justice of those who are above them. A most intelligent anH excellent friend of mine, in Ireland, by no means disposed to underrate the faults of his poor countrymen, made this, to me, striking observation : '^It must be admitted that the first step you have to take in working upon the poor people, is to convince them that you really mean to act towards them with ^ common honesty.^ '' Do not these words point to one of the great sources of the evils of Ireland ? It is justice, not as it is expounded by noisy politicians, but as exhibited in the daily intercourse of men, that is so much wanted. The bad cultivation of the little holdings of the farmer may be in no inconsiderable degree attributed to his want of confidence in reaping the fi'uits of improved cultivation. He tells you that if he improve his ground, his rent will be immediately raised, so as to leave him in the same destitute condition as before. Much has been said of the non-cultivation of the little plots of ground in Mayo, during the past year, as proving the idleness of the cottiers. When they were urged last spring to dig their ground and put in the seed, the apprehension that their crops would be swept away for rent, and thus bring no food for their own support, added greatly to their discouragement. If, therefore, they could obtain money upon the public works, the temptation was too strong for their moral feelings. We have seen that these apprehensions were, in many cases, too well grounded.*
* The eager rushing of multitudes of fanners to the puhlic roads, &c.,

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Scotch smack selling fish in Westport despite local abundance

Westport · town · Mayo · 1847

The author notes that markets in this part of Connaught were so under-supplied by native industry that at Westport, twenty-five miles from Achill, a Scottish fishing smack was supplying the town with fish.

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Whilst standing upon the magnificent cliffs of AchiU, overlooking the wide Atlantic, I saw the deep inlets and bays of that island literally filled with shoals of mackerel and herring, indeed the whole surface of the sea seemed completely alive with them. Around me stood groups of hungry creatures, who looked down upon this inexhaustible supply of food, wholly unable to procure it to allay their cravings. One fishing-boat and three or four curraghs alone were engaged, where there was employment for hundreds, and food for the thousands of hungry creatures on the island. The sums required for the assistance of these fisheries are by no means large. One of your correspondents upon this island, whose wishes you have since attended to, stated that by means of a loan of one hundred pounds, he should be able to have ten large curraghs^ (the boats best adapted to this rocky and dangerous coast) built and completely fitted out with the needful lines, nets, &c., for pursuing the fishing. These ten boats would, on an average, give employment to eight persons each,t representing eighty families of six persons, or four hundred and eighty individuals ; ^^ but,^' added your correspondent, " you may double this, for every family who has employment will support another ;*' thus, nearly one thousand persons would be permanently supported by a loan of one hundred pounds. Besides giving permanent and profitable employment, a large quantity of nutritions food would be added to the failing resources of the country. Your active correspondent at Achill Sound has established a small curing station, which would be sufficient for preserving any quantity not required by the district, or carried into the interior of the country ; and that the markets of this part of Connaught are not over-stocked by native industry, may be illustrated by the fact, that at the sea-port town of Westport (twenty*-five miles distant), a Scotch fishing smack was actually supplying the town with fish.
The shores of Erris were likewise swarming with fish. I

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You're coming through Westport now. This is a sea-port town in Mayo, and in the autumn of 1847 it stood about twenty-five miles from Achill, where the author of this account had stood on the cliffs looking out over the Atlantic. What he saw there was extraordinary. The deep inlets and bays of the island were literally filled with shoals of mackerel and herring. The whole surface of the sea seemed alive with them. And all around him stood groups of hungry creatures, looking down at this inexhaustible supply of food, wholly unable to procure it. One fishing-boat and three or four curraghs were all that were engaged, where there was employment for hundreds and food for thousands. A correspondent on the island had calculated that a loan of one hundred pounds would build and completely fit out ten large curraghs, the boats best suited to that rocky and dangerous coast, with lines and nets. Ten boats would employ eight persons each, supporting eighty families of six, or four hundred and eighty individuals. And that correspondent added, you may double this, for every family who has employment will support another. Nearly one thousand people would be permanently supported by a loan of one hundred pounds. The author noted that the sums required for assistance of these fisheries were by no means large. A small curing station had been established at Achill Sound, sufficient for preserving any quantity not required by the district or carried into the interior. And yet, for all this abundance so close at hand, the markets of this part of Connaught were not over-stocked by native industry. The proof was here at Westport. A Scotch fishing smack was actually supplying the town with fish. Twenty-five miles from waters teeming with mackerel and herring, the town depended on a boat from Scotland for its supply.
Sir R. O'Donnell employs 1,000 in Newport flax harvest

Newport · town · Mayo · 1847

Nearly one thousand persons, mostly women, were employed by Sir R. O'Donnell harvesting flax crops near Newport, earning 4d. per day for women and 8d. for men. Nearly half the flax was grown in O'Donnell's own hands, the remainder purchased from tenants at £5–£9 per acre.

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At the time of my visit to the neighbourhood of Newport, nearly one thousand persons, principally women, were engaged by Sir R. O'Donnell, in harvesting the crops; the women earned 4d. per day and the men 8d. Even at this miserable rate of wages, 1 have seldom seen more cheerful or industrious labourers. Tn some places this work was just ending, and I was much struck with the earnest appeals, which the poor creatures made to us, to obtain work for them, during the coming season, supposing, from the inquiries made, that we had some power of assisting them. " If we don't get work we will all die, your honour." " Won't your honour get us work for the winter, or we will all starve," was the constant and touching appeal ; and yet this was from the people whom we daily hear branded as idle and unwilling to work. ^
Nearly half of the flax grown around Newport is in Sir R. O'DonnelPs own hands, and he is purchasing the remainder from his tenants, at the rate of d£ 5 to £7, and in some cases £9 per acre. The rent of the land on which the flax is grown, is often from 30s. to 3ds. per acre. The seed costs about 25s., and the two diggings and other expenses which are required may be reckoned at 28s., to which must be added the cost of the extra quantity of manure after so exhausting a crop as flax. After these outlays there can be but litUe left for the tenant to live upon. At the same time my other inquiries left no doubt on my mind that the value of a crop of flax did mostly leave a very handsome remuneration, after the payment of all the charges attendant on its cultivation.* Several growers in the neighbourhood stated to me that their crops were worth from £16 to £20 per acre. Sir R. O'Donnell, amongst other considerable improvements, is building a flour and skutchiug mill at Newport. t Whilst writing upon Newport, I ought not to

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is Newport, in Mayo. In the autumn of 1847, nearly 1,000 people, mostly women, were working for Sir R. O'Donnell harvesting flax crops around the town. The women earned 4d. a day and the men 8d. — yet the writer said he had seldom seen more cheerful or industrious labourers. When the work was ending, the labourers begged for winter work, saying,
Erris as a specimen of failed landlordism

Erris · barony · Mayo · 1847

The author described Erris as one of the most perfect specimens of the mischiefs of a system where landed property remains in the hands of those unable to discharge its duties or allow others to do so. Landlords showed both lack of ability and lack of willingness to aid their starving tenants.

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ronj of any attempt to adopt a perfect system of drainage, it is the more observable, presenting, as the land does, a pleasing contrast to the desolation around it. I never saw what appeared to me more complete or excellent work. It has been executed under the superintendence of a Scotch steward. The earnings of the labourers, indeed, were low enough, barely 6d, per day, but this employment was a great boon to them. It may safely be said of the landlords of Erris generally, that there appears as much want of willingness as of ability on their part to do anything for the benefit of their starving tenantry or wasted estates. Erris affords one of the most perfect specimens of the mischiefs connected with that vicious system, by which landed property remains in the hands of those who are wholly unable to discharge its duties, or even to open the door to allow others to perform them.*
At Belmnllet, the capital of the district of Erris, a crowd of almost naked perishing creatures were congregating in the streets, in a state of ^^ perfect destitution,'^ as the landlord of the inn assured me ; they had no homes, no shelter, no land, no food ; they slept at night in the streets, and begged for snpport during the day, of neighbours hardly richer than themselves. He told me also that " six persons had died in the streets in the few previous nights ; " and I am sure that several whom I saw there are now beyond the reach of earthly calamity. The ghastly smile which momentarily played on the countenances of these living skeletons, at the prospect of a little temporarv relief, I cannot easily forget* It rendered still more painful the expression of intense anxiety and bitter misery which was exhibited in their livid and death-set features.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Mining employment and security in Tipperary

Tipperary · town · Tipperary · 1847

Despite Tipperary's reputation for violence, a mining company manager in the county employed 1,400 men who exhibited steady industry. The manager reported no personal insecurity, offering a high character of the men's conduct.

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We come now to consider the charge of "brutality" made against the Irish, and the consequent uncertainty of life, even to those who are engaged in seeking their improvement. This is truly a serious charge, and cannot be altogether denied : it is lamentable to think that there are in any part of Ireland men who can be hired to imbrue their hands in the blood of their neighbours. The assassinations which have recently taken place, have justly excited the feelings of strong indignation toward the actors in these scenes of blood ; they have, however, led to a far too general imputation upon the Irish character, and have unduly discouraged the introduction of capital and enterprise. into some parts of Ireland. ^^ It will be found, upon a careful examination into the locality of the acts of violence whfch have been commit* ted, that they are limited to certain counties and districts, and that they leave the major part of Ireland as unstained with the crime of murder as many parts of England.^' Assassination is very unusual in the greater portion of Connaught: Leitrim and Roscommon (in which such fearful instances have just occurred) form the exceptions. In Ulster and Leinster, with the exception of two or three counties, it is also equally rare. Munster, generally speaking, is the seat of those horrible outrages which have made all Ireland appear a land of terror and bloodshed ; but in many parts even of this province a man may pursue his ordinary calling with entire security. Whilst in Tipperary, I met with the Manager of one of the extensive Mining Companies in that county, who had fourteen hundred men in his employ, and I heard from him what I did not anticipate in Tipperary, — a very high character of the conduct and steady industry of the men in his service, whose earnings amounted to from 9s. to 12s. per week. This gentleman had not the slightest apprehension of any personal insecurity^ Although my visit to the province of Munster was too brief to allow me to speak from much personal observation, the information I obtained from all classes and parties, even from some intimately connected with the victims of the late murders, went to prove that most of the cases of outrage which disgrace this province have been connected with the tenure of land, or the relation of landlord and tenant. There have no doubt been cases which derive no s))ade of apology from the imperfection of
*

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Ballinrobe workhouse officers and inmates perished

Ballinrobe · town · Mayo · 1847

In the adjoining Union of Ballinrobe, all officers of the workhouse were swept away by disease and 254 inmates perished during the famine crisis.

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dreadful 10th of November, one hundred and twenty were admitted beyond the regulated number, hundreds were refused admission for want of room, some unhappy beings perished on the high roads and in the fields. Influenced by terror and dismay — leaving entire districts almost deserted — the better class of farmers, in numbers, sold their property at any sacrifice, and took flight for America, and the humbler classes left the country in masses, hoping to find a happier doom in any other region. This awful state of things continued during the winter and spring, in a greater or less degree. In this Union, three hundred and sixty-seven persons died in the poor-house ; the master of the house also *died. In an adjoining Union, ballina, two hundred were admitted to the house beyond the number it was built for (twelve hundred) ; hundreds were refused admission for want of room, and eleven hundred and thirty-eight died in the house ; the medical officer of the house was also carried off. In another adjoining Union, Ballinrobe, all the officers of the house were swept away, and two hundred and fifty-four inmates of the house perished.''
B

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Fisheries and food relief on the Erris coast

Bangor · town · Mayo · 1847

At least three thousand people scattered along the rugged coast near Bangor could find employment through fisheries. During the author's visit, many were kept alive by food grants from the committee, and an efficient agent at Bangor was engaged to encourage fisheries and native manufactures.

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found from inquiries, that at least three thousand of the population scattered along its rugged coast might at once find employment or support by means of the fisheries ; and knowing the large share of your attention which this barony has always claimed, and the number of persons who were kept alive at the time of my visit by the grants of food made by your committee, I felt strongly that the encouragement of the fisheries and native manufactures would be a still more effectual mode of supporting a large portion of the population ; especially, as, in your correspondent at Bangor, you have an agent at once efficient and trustworthy, as well as deeply interested in the welfare and improvement of the poorer classes. It has been a source of much pleasure to me to find, since my return, that his services have been engaged for the purpose of carrying out these views.* It may be well to remark that the small boats or curraghs are not adapted for the deep-sea fisheries, and as they can make available only a very small portion of the riches of the sea, it is to be regretted that private enterprise has not seconded the judicious assistance afforded by the Government, in places where, as at Belmullet, a constant market is provided. Under good leadership the fishermen of this coast are expert and courageous, and an outlay of a few hundred pounds in larger fishing boats calculated for the cod and ling banks, would prove, as I was assured by the Government agent and other persons conversant with fishing, a very profitable trade. In connexion with the fisheries of Connaught, I will here refer to the Gladdaghf fishermen of Galway, a peculiar and distinct race, far superior as fishermen to the rest of their class. In place of the small boats and curraghs used elsewhere, they possess well-built fishing boats — " hookers," — which are considered by nautical men as models of combined strength and beauty. The little colony of these men, stretching from the town of Galway for some miles along the coast, live apart from the rest of the inhabitants, always marry among themselves, and unlike the other fishermen of Connaught, who generally hold some land, depend entirely upon fishing for support. They have at least one thousand
* This experiment appears likely to be very successful, and gives employment to a large number of persons. The amount of fish obtainable exceeds the highest calculations.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Bangor in Mayo, you are near a coast where, in 1847, at least 3,000 people scattered along the rugged shore could have found support through the fisheries. At the time of the author's visit that autumn, many were being kept alive by food grants from a relief committee. An efficient and trustworthy agent based here in Bangor was engaged to encourage both the fisheries and native manufactures as a more lasting way of supporting the population. The small curraghs in use were not suited to deep-sea work, and it was said that a few hundred pounds spent on larger boats for the cod and ling banks would have created a profitable trade, as the fishermen of this coast were expert and courageous under good leadership.
Government fisheries market at Belmullet

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847

Belmullet had a constant market provided for fisheries, with Government assistance. The author regretted that private enterprise had not seconded these efforts, and noted that larger boats were needed for the profitable cod and ling banks.

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found from inquiries, that at least three thousand of the population scattered along its rugged coast might at once find employment or support by means of the fisheries ; and knowing the large share of your attention which this barony has always claimed, and the number of persons who were kept alive at the time of my visit by the grants of food made by your committee, I felt strongly that the encouragement of the fisheries and native manufactures would be a still more effectual mode of supporting a large portion of the population ; especially, as, in your correspondent at Bangor, you have an agent at once efficient and trustworthy, as well as deeply interested in the welfare and improvement of the poorer classes. It has been a source of much pleasure to me to find, since my return, that his services have been engaged for the purpose of carrying out these views.* It may be well to remark that the small boats or curraghs are not adapted for the deep-sea fisheries, and as they can make available only a very small portion of the riches of the sea, it is to be regretted that private enterprise has not seconded the judicious assistance afforded by the Government, in places where, as at Belmullet, a constant market is provided. Under good leadership the fishermen of this coast are expert and courageous, and an outlay of a few hundred pounds in larger fishing boats calculated for the cod and ling banks, would prove, as I was assured by the Government agent and other persons conversant with fishing, a very profitable trade. In connexion with the fisheries of Connaught, I will here refer to the Gladdaghf fishermen of Galway, a peculiar and distinct race, far superior as fishermen to the rest of their class. In place of the small boats and curraghs used elsewhere, they possess well-built fishing boats — " hookers," — which are considered by nautical men as models of combined strength and beauty. The little colony of these men, stretching from the town of Galway for some miles along the coast, live apart from the rest of the inhabitants, always marry among themselves, and unlike the other fishermen of Connaught, who generally hold some land, depend entirely upon fishing for support. They have at least one thousand
* This experiment appears likely to be very successful, and gives employment to a large number of persons. The amount of fish obtainable exceeds the highest calculations.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Belmullet, in 1847, there was a constant market provided for the fisheries, kept going with Government assistance. The author found from inquiries that at least 3,000 of the population scattered along this rugged coast might at once find employment or support through the fisheries. At the time of his visit, a large number of persons were being kept alive by grants of food made by a committee. He felt strongly that encouraging the fisheries and native manufactures would be a still more effectual mode of supporting a large portion of the population. There was a correspondent at Bangor who served as an agent, at once efficient and trustworthy, and deeply interested in the welfare and improvement of the poorer classes. The author was pleased to find, since his return, that this man's services had been engaged for the purpose of carrying out these views. He remarked that the small boats or curraghs are not adapted for the deep-sea fisheries, and can make available only a very small portion of the riches of the sea. He regretted that private enterprise had not seconded the judicious assistance afforded by the Government, where a constant market is provided. Under good leadership, the fishermen of this coast are expert and courageous. An outlay of a few hundred pounds in larger fishing boats, calculated for the cod and ling banks, would prove, as he was assured by the Government agent and other persons conversant with fishing, a very profitable trade.
Potential for outrage in Donegal and Mayo

Donegal · town · Donegal · 1847

The author warns that if the prevalent system of seizure and eviction continues during the current distress, the currently peaceable men of Donegal and Mayo may soon be driven to commit acts of outrage.

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lu Roscommon 1 know that assassinations have taken place in connexion with the system of eviction, and &r as I am from extenuating these murders, or sympathising with any movement which aims at the destruction of the rights of property, I cannot but think that the system of clearing away the population of a district is also a violation of the great principles of justice and humanity, on which law ought ever to be founded. Certainly some impoitant modifications of the existing relations of landlord and tenant are imperatively called for. Neither is there any time to lose in the adoption of measures for the purpose of establishing an equitable and well-defined system of tenant right. For while we are to-day able to define the geographical limits of insecurity of life in Ireland, it is by no means certain, in connexion with the present distress, if the prevalent system of seizure and eviction should continue, how soon the peaceable men of Donegal and Mayo may be led into the commission of acts of outrage.
With reference to these views of the character of the Irish peasantry, as well as affording the strongest evidences of the practicability of employing them in the improvement of their own soil, and thereby effectually suppressing unlawful combination and outrage, we may refer to actual experiments.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Donegal town, you're travelling ground that an author warned about in the autumn of 1847. He had come through Connaught that year, during the famine, and he wrote a letter about what he saw. Assassinations had already taken place in connection with evictions, and while he would not excuse those murders, he argued that clearing a whole population from a district was itself a violation of justice and humanity. He said the law needed to change, that there was no time to lose in establishing an equitable and well-defined system of tenant right. The men of Donegal and Mayo were still peaceable, he wrote, but if the prevalent system of seizure and eviction should continue alongside the present distress, it was by no means certain how soon they might be led into the commission of acts of outrage. He believed the Irish peasantry could be employed in the improvement of their own soil, and that doing so would effectually suppress unlawful combination and outrage. He pointed to actual experiments as evidence that it could work.
Recent house demolitions at Tiraun

Tiraun · townland · Mayo · 1848

At Tiraun, the property of J. Walshe, the author counted eight or ten roofless houses that had been very recently thrown down, out of about twenty that composed the village.

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At Tiraun, the property of J. Walshe, I counted eight or ten roofless houses very recently thrown down, out of about twenty which had composed the village, and thirteen heads of families are receiving relief under the provisions of the Poor-Law from it.
From Tiraun we proclseded to MuUaroghe, also the property of J. Walshe, which pres^ited a scene of devastation almost beyond belief. It was literally a heap of ruins. I tried to count the roofless houses, and after proceeding as far as seventy, gave it up in despair ; for not only had the roofs been thrown down, but in many cases the gable-ends and the walls of the houses demolished, so that nothing re-

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 2

As the companion tells it

Close to Tiraun, a village on the property of J. Walshe stood with about twenty houses before the demolitions. In 1848, the author counted eight or ten roofless houses very recently thrown down, leaving thirteen heads of families receiving relief under the Poor-Law. The houses had been unroofed and the village largely reduced to ruins.
Atkinson estate drainage: sole improvement in Erris

Erris · barony · Mayo · 1847

The estate of a proprietor named Atkinson was the only place between Bangor and Belmullet showing signs of improvement, featuring complete and excellent drainage executed under a Scottish steward. Labourers earned barely 6d per day, but the employment was described as a great boon.

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From Bangor to Belmullet, a distance of twelve miles, the same dreary waste of uncultivated and neglected land extends. In only one place did I observe any sign of improvement or superior cultivation. This was upon an estate of a proprietor named Atkinson ; and as this is the only instance in the ba-
* A printed document ^relative to this district, Ballecroy, now before me, states — 1st. That there are no resident gentry. 2nd. There is no resident minister. 3rd. There is no market town — a poor man may have to travel forty-four miles for a stone of meal. 4th. There is no medical man or dispensary within twenty-two miles.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Swineford Union poor-house: deep prejudice overcome by famine

Swineford · townland · Mayo · 1847

In Swineford Union, county Mayo, prejudice against the poor-house was so deep that for a long time no pauper could be induced to enter it. Famine came on with such unrelenting severity that the house was soon filled to its capacity of seven hundred.

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* The following extract from an address to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, signed by the Belief Committee of Swineford Union, county Mayo, presents, in a yery striking light, the condition of the people and of the Union-houses last year : '^ In this Union, Swineford, the prejudices of the population to a poor-house were so deep and inveterate, that the house was a long time before one pauper could be induced to enter it. Famine, however, came on with such unrelenting severity, that in a short time the house was filled with the number (seven hundred) it was intended for. On the
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Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Swineford stood the Union poor-house, and in 1847 its story was a grim one. The Relief Committee told the Lord Lieutenant that the prejudices of the population were so deep and inveterate that the house stood empty for a long time, before one pauper could be induced to enter it. Famine, however, came on with such unrelenting severity that in a short time the house was filled with the 700 it was intended for.
Eviction and house destruction at Tiraun

Tiraun · townland · Mayo · 1845–1847

Tiraun suffered the same eviction system as Mullaroghe and Clogher, with some tenants' houses unroofed only three or four days before the author's visit. Of 20 families assessed, at least 8 or 10 houses were unroofed and tenantless, and 13 heads of families were on relief.

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That in Tiraun 20 families were assessed, and that at least 8 or 10 houses are now unroofed and tenantless.
4thly, That in MuUaroghe 72 heads of families are now receiving relief, in Clogher 46, in Tiraun 13 — total 131. Besides these there are, say 9 families in the Ballina poorhouse, making a total of 140 families who are at this moment receiving relief under the Poor-Law, and these from the property of a proprietor, who, although he has been twice applied to by the solicitor of the Poor-Law Guardians, had not, on the 18th inst, paid the poor-rates struck in August, 1846, or that subsequently in August, 1847, the former at 5d. and the latter at Is. 3d. in the pound, in the electoral division of Binghamstown.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 2

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Tiraun, 20 families were assessed, and at least 8 or 10 houses are now unroofed and tenantless. Some had been unroofed only 3 or 4 days before the author's visit. 13 heads of families here were on relief, part of 131 across Tiraun, Mullaroghe, and Clogher, with another 9 families in the Ballina poorhouse. These families came from the property of a proprietor who had not paid poor-rates struck in August 1846 at 5 pence in the pound, or in August 1847 at 1 shilling and 3 pence in the pound, in the electoral division of Binghamstown. He had been twice applied to by the solicitor of the Poor-Law Guardians and still had not paid by the 18th.
Reclaimable waste lands of Erris

Erris · barony · Mayo · 1847

The author observes that in Erris there exist many thousand acres of uncultivated but profitably reclaimable waste land alongside many thousand idle, starving labourers, and argues that combining these two elements would be straightforward were it not for laws maintaining landed proprietors in a false position.

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We have seen that throughout Mayo, and especially in Erris, there exist many thousand acres of uncultivated waste land profitably reclaimable, and many thousand idle, starving labourers ; and it would certainly seem an easy thing, where two elements so needful for success are found together, to combine them for their own advantage. Why has not this been done ? The true answer I believe is to be found, not in the reluctance of the labourers to work, but in the laws which maintain the false position of the proprietor, when he is utterly unable to discharge his duties. The facilities granted by government, by means of ioans, on most advantageous terms for the improvement of land, ought to furnish no inconsiderable portion of labour immediately to the poor of Connaught ; but here again, the embarrassed condition of the estates frustrates the good intention of government. The employment of the people, consequent upon the improved cultivation of the land* must, therefore, principally be con-
* Since my former visit a very interesting experiment has been commenced, and is now carrying on in the vicinity of Ballina, Co. Mayo. Five hundred acres of land have been placed at the disposal of the C. B. Committee of the Society of Friends, by a few landed propriet(»rs, for the sake of giving employment rather than gratuitous relief to some of the thousands of willing but unemployed labourers of Mayo. The land thus in course of cultivation is offered rent and poor-cess free for one year. Spade husbandry, in which the men are instructed by one of Lord Clarendon's practical instructors, is alone allowed ; and the crops which are intended to be grown, consisting principally of turnips, parsnips, carrots, peas, &c., with a very small portion of com and flax, will, of course, belong to the Belief Committee.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1
Vast extent of Ballina Poor Law Union

Ballina · townland · Mayo · 1847

The Ballina Union was about 60 miles wide by 30 broad, nearly three times the size of Middlesex, covering 509,154 acres with a population of 120,797. Its enormous size made it impossible for paupers in remote districts to reach the poor-house at Ballina.

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The enormous size of the Unions of Connaught is ako a subject which deserves attention ; I have before mentioned that Leinster, which contains nearly the same area and population, has nearly double the number of Unions, and, of course, Union-houses. The Union of Ballina (county Mayo) is about 60 miles in width by 30 in breadth, or nearly three times the size of Middlesex, containing an area of 509,^154 acres, with a population of 120,797 persons, and a net annual value of £95,774. Let us suppose an Union stretching from London to Buckingham or Oxford in one direction, and from London to Basingstoke in another, with a poor-house at St. Albans, and we shall have a good idea of the extent of the Ballina Union. A consideration of these facts, or a glance at the map, will convince any one how impossible it is for the wretched paupers of the extreme or even central portions of this mammoth Union to receive the relief which, by law, is designed for them. Look to the parish of Belmullet in the barony of Erris, itself as large as the county of Dublin, and conceive for a moment the hardships of those who travel 50 miles or more to the poor-house at Ballina. The barony of Erris alone is clearly large enough for one Union, and ought to have its poor-house at Belmullet.^
I must be allowed to dwell at some length upon the peculiaif misery of this barony of Erris, and parish of Belmullet, which I spent some days in examining. A£9icting as is the general condition of Mayo — ^fearful as are the prospects of the province in general, there is here yet a lower depth in misery, a district almost as distinct from Mayo as Mayo is from the eastern parts of Ireland. Human wretchedness seems concentrated in Erris, the culminating point of man^s physical

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here in 1847 lay the Ballina Poor Law Union, an enormous district about 60 miles wide by 30 broad, nearly three times the size of Middlesex. It covered 509,154 acres with a population of 120,797 people and a net annual value of £95,774. The scale of it meant that the wretched paupers in the extreme or even central portions of this mammoth union could not reach the poor-house at Ballina to receive the relief that was designed for them by law. The writer asked readers to picture a union stretching from London to Buckingham or Oxford in one direction and from London to Basingstoke in another, with a poor-house at St. Albans, to grasp the extent. He pointed to the parish of Belmullet in the barony of Erris, itself as large as the county of Dublin, and the hardship of those who had to travel 50 miles or more to the poor-house at Ballina. Erris alone, he said, was clearly large enough for one union and ought to have had its own poor-house at Belmullet. He described Erris as the culminating point of man's physical wretchedness, a district almost as distinct from Mayo as Mayo was from the eastern parts of Ireland.
Ballycroy's lack of gentry, minister, market and medical care

near Ballycroy · population centre · Mayo · 1847

A printed document about the Ballecroy district stated there were no resident gentry, no resident minister, no market town, and no medical man within twenty-two miles. A poor man might have to travel forty-four miles for a single stone of meal.

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* A printed document ^relative to this district, Ballecroy, now before me, states — 1st. That there are no resident gentry. 2nd. There is no resident minister. 3rd. There is no market town — a poor man may have to travel forty-four miles for a stone of meal. 4th. There is no medical man or dispensary within twenty-two miles.
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Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Ballycroy in Mayo, a printed document from 1847 laid out what this district lacked. There were no resident gentry, no resident minister, and no market town. There was no medical man or dispensary within 22 miles. A poor man might have had to travel 44 miles for a single stone of meal.
Emigration agents at Killala and Sligo during Famine

Killala · town · Mayo · 1845–1847

The books of emigration agents at Killala and Sligo are cited as documentary evidence of the mass flight of tenants from County Mayo following civil bill processes served by landlords for rent arrears.

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" These facts may perhaps be justified or fairly accounted for, but they are too notorious to be denied. The books of the process-servers of the Assistant-Barrister's Court, the ^books of the Clerk of the Peace (particularly those used at the January sessions of 1846 in Ballina), the admission-books of the different workliouses in this county, and the books of the emigration agents at Killala and Sligo, will prove all.
" The condition of the estates of some of those landlords which are at present, in many places, a perfect waste, though it marks the late general calamity, points as significantly to the assisting agency that contributed to complete the ruin. The calamity might have passed away, . but the evictor, to leave nothing unharmed or undestroyed, stretched forth his arm, and gave it an impulse and an enduring fatality.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 3

As the companion tells it

You are coming through Killala in County Mayo. During the Famine years of 1845 to 1847, the books of the emigration agents here and at Sligo recorded the mass flight of tenants from the county. Landlords had been serving civil bill processes for rent arrears, driving people off the land. The author of a contemporary account wrote that these agents' books, along with those of the process-servers and the workhouse admission-books, would prove the scale of what happened. He described how some estates had become a perfect waste, and argued that while the calamity itself might have passed, the evictor gave it what he called an enduring fatality. So Killala's name appears in the record as one of the ports where the desperate departure was documented.
Flour and skutching mill under construction at Newport

Newport · town · Mayo · 1847

Sir R. O'Donnell was building a flour and skutching mill at Newport as part of considerable improvements on his estate. Three years earlier hardly 50 acres of flax could be found in the area, but by 1847 nearly half the county's 2,499 acres of flax was grown around Newport.

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Nearly half of the flax grown around Newport is in Sir R. O'DonnelPs own hands, and he is purchasing the remainder from his tenants, at the rate of d£ 5 to £7, and in some cases £9 per acre. The rent of the land on which the flax is grown, is often from 30s. to 3ds. per acre. The seed costs about 25s., and the two diggings and other expenses which are required may be reckoned at 28s., to which must be added the cost of the extra quantity of manure after so exhausting a crop as flax. After these outlays there can be but litUe left for the tenant to live upon. At the same time my other inquiries left no doubt on my mind that the value of a crop of flax did mostly leave a very handsome remuneration, after the payment of all the charges attendant on its cultivation.* Several growers in the neighbourhood stated to me that their crops were worth from £16 to £20 per acre. Sir R. O'Donnell, amongst other considerable improvements, is building a flour and skutchiug mill at Newport. t Whilst writing upon Newport, I ought not to
* Since the publication of the first edition'' Sir B. O'Donnell has informed me, through a mutual friend, that the flax grown upon his estate was sown too late in the season to produce an average crop, and that in its growth and purchase he was merely acting on behalf of a firm in Manchester, which he had induced to enter extensively into the cultivation of the flax crop. The former fact will of course account for the low price given. Sir R. O'D. also informs me, that the rent stated by me to be paid by the tenants is greatly above the average. J m^ust, in justice to myself, say, that the statement of rent and cost of cultivation given above was the result of very particular inquiries amongst the flax.growing tenantry.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Newport in Mayo, you're coming through a town where Sir R. O'Donnell was building a flour and skutching mill in 1847, part of considerable improvements on his estate. Three years earlier, hardly 50 acres of flax could be found in the whole area, but by 1847 nearly half the county's 2,499 acres of flax was grown around Newport. O'Donnell had nearly half the flax in his own hands and was buying the rest from his tenants at 5 to 7 pounds an acre, and in some cases 9 pounds. Several growers in the neighbourhood said their crops were worth from 16 to 20 pounds per acre. The costs were heavy, though. Rent for the land often ran from 30 shillings to 3 pounds an acre, seed cost about 25 shillings, and two diggings and other expenses added another 28 shillings, on top of extra manure for so exhausting a crop. After all that, there could be but little left for the tenant to live on. O'Donnell later clarified that he was acting on behalf of a Manchester firm he had persuaded to enter flax cultivation, and that the flax on his estate was sown too late to produce an average crop. He also said the rents stated were well above the average. Still, the writer's inquiries left no doubt that a flax crop mostly left what he called a very handsome remuneration after all charges were paid.
Alleged superstitions of the Claddagh people

Claddagh · electoral division · Galway · 1847

The Claddagh fishermen were widely reputed for gross superstition, and few spoke English. The author concluded that while they were extremely ignorant and under superstitious dominion, the stories so rife about them were largely unfounded.

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Last year, when William Forster, who sympathized so deeply with the sufierings of the poor Irish, visited this colony of fishermen, he found them in a state of utter destitution. The first shock of the famine, combined with an unfavourable season, and the absence of their usual chief means of barter and support — the potato — had compelled them to pawn their nets and almost every article connected with their boats, for the purpose of purchasing a little meal. Impressed here, as elsewhere, with the necessity of inducing the people to labour for themselves, this opportunity was not neglected, and by means of a grant of one hundred pounds, the Claddagh fishermen were to a great extent enabled to redeem their nets, and the fisheries were resumed ; by this timely grant some hundreds of lives were, I doubt not, saved. Although subject to distress, like every other part of Ireland, this colony has escaped the extreme misery and mortality prevalent around them. No particular distress existed at the time of my visit to the Claddagh. It is difficult to arrive at the truth respecting the alleged gross superstition of these curious people, the more so, as few of them speak English ; but I came to the conclusion that, although extremely ignorant, and sadly under superstitious dominion, the stories so rife respecting them are, to a very great extent, unfounded.* The laws by which this singular community regulate the fishing of the bay of Galway are founded upon observations, made certainly without much reference to the light which free-trade doctrines have of late shed upon the world, but they may bear comparison with some laws which still exist for the protection of fisheries and game in higher quarters. If, as was suggested to me by a friend, some steps could be adopted for giving instruction to the admiral of the colony or his son, who possess great influence, in the most profitable and approved modes of fishing, much good might be effected; but, at the same time, measures must be adopted to provide a market for the increased exertion of these Claddagh men. At the time of my visit, the market of Galway was completely over-stocked with fish, and tons of it were lying unfit for
* A piscatorial school has just been established at the Claddagh, under the care of the monks of the Claddagh convent, which promises to be of jservice.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Coming up near Claddagh, the old fishing quarter of Galway. In 1847 a visitor found a community that had come through the famine in better shape than the country around it. The year before, William Forster visited these fishermen and found them in utter destitution. The first shock of the famine, a bad season, and the loss of the potato had forced them to pawn their nets and nearly everything connected with their boats, just to buy a little meal. A grant of 100 pounds let them redeem much of what they had pawned, and the fisheries resumed. The author had no doubt that some hundreds of lives were saved by that timely grant. The colony had suffered like the rest of Ireland, but it had escaped the extreme misery and mortality seen all around. By the time of the visit there was no particular distress. These fishermen had a reputation for gross superstition, and few of them spoke English, which made the truth hard to reach. The author concluded they were extremely ignorant and sadly under superstitious dominion, but that the stories so rife about them were to a great extent unfounded. They had their own laws for fishing the bay of Galway, built on observations that took no account of free-trade doctrines, but which might bear comparison with fisheries and game laws still existing in higher quarters. A friend suggested that instruction might be given to the admiral of the colony or his son, who carried great influence, in more profitable and approved modes of fishing. Much good might come of that. But a market had to be found for whatever they could land. When the author visited, Galway was completely overstocked with fish, and tons of it were lying unfit for sale.
Fisheries potential of Galway and Mayo coasts

Galway · city · Galway · 1847

The author notes that Galway and Mayo, the two largest counties of Connaught, are peculiarly adapted for fisheries, with their long coastline abounding in fish of every description and the finest quality, including immense shoals of herrings and mackerel close to shore.

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For the immediate improvement of a large portion of the inhabitants of Connaught, we must, therefore, look to the encouragement of the fisheries and the native manufactures ; the former is of the most pressing importance. The two largest counties of Connaught (Galway and Mayo), are peculiarly adapted for carrying on the fisheries to advantage. The whole of their long line of coast abounds in fish of every description, and of the finest quality. Close to the shore, immense shoals of herrings and mackerel were sport-
but a far greater benefit is conferred by the instruction of so many men in an improved mode of husbandry, and by the example thus set to the whole neighbourhood, — an example which had already begun to be followed by several of the small farmers. The value of this experiment, whichever way we regard it, is immense, and helped to confirm me in the belief elsewhere expressed that Ireland possesses in herself the means of her own regeneration, were she enabled by the removal, rather than the enacting of laws, to use her dormant resources.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you come through Galway, you are travelling along one of the two largest counties of Connaught. In the autumn of 1847, a visitor to this region wrote that Galway and Mayo are peculiarly adapted for carrying on the fisheries to advantage. The whole of their long line of coast abounds in fish of every description, and of the finest quality. Close to the shore, immense shoals of herrings and mackerel were to be seen. He argued that for the immediate improvement of a large portion of the inhabitants of Connaught, we must look to the encouragement of the fisheries and the native manufactures, and that the fisheries were of the most pressing importance. He believed that Ireland possesses in herself the means of her own regeneration, were she enabled by the removal, rather than the enacting, of laws to use her dormant resources. The coast you are passing holds what he called those dormant resources, waiting then, as now, along the water's edge.
Verifying eviction conditions around Belmullet

Belmullet · townland · Mayo · 1847

After leaving the Binghamstown workhouse, the author proceeded to Belmullet and spent several days in its neighbourhood further verifying the facts of the evictions and distress, closing a visit to scenes he considered difficult to find equalled even in Ireland's terrible wretchedness.

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Leaving the workhouse, I again proceeded to Belmullet, in the neighbourhood of which I spent some days in further verifying these facts, and thus closed a visit to scenes which it would be difficult to find equalled, even amidst the terrible wretchedness of Ireland.
It may be well to state that neither MuUaroghe nor Clogher appeared to have been villages of the poorest description ; the houses, so far as I could observe, were built of stone, some were plastered outside, and such of the furniture as was scattered about bespoke a condition rather above the lowest.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 2

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here in 1847, after leaving the Binghamstown workhouse, the author spent several days verifying the facts of the evictions and the distress in this neighbourhood. He closed his visit to scenes he said it would be difficult to find equalled, even amidst the terrible wretchedness of Ireland. He noted that neither Mullanrogy nor Clogher appeared to have been villages of the poorest description. The houses were built of stone, some plastered outside, and the furniture scattered about suggested a condition rather above the lowest.
Projected railway from Mullingar to Galway

Mullingar · town · Westmeath · 1847–1848

The author urged Government assistance for a railway projected from Mullingar to connect with the Dublin line, arguing it would be the greatest boon for the west of Ireland and would open up the enormous resources of Galway, especially its fisheries.

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use, the disgusting effluvia rendering approach truly unpleasant. I was a little surprised that the public or private enterprise of Galway had not furnished this part of the coast with a curing station ; for without this, or a railway communication with Dublin, the labours of these fishermen are very much abridged. The distance from Galway to Dublin is far too great for any extensive trade to be carried on except by railway, and even when the line is completed to Mullingar, the seventy miles unfinished will prove a complete obstacle to the transport of those finer kinds of fish, as turbot, soles, ling, &c., with which the coast of Galway abounds. It appears to me, that the greatest boon which the Government could bestow on the west of Ireland — furnishing the greatest stimulus to the opening out of its enormous resources, especially those of Galway — would be to give some assistance in the formation of the railway which is projected from Mullingar, in connexion with the line which is now in course of completion to tha latter town from Dublin.

Internet Archive avisittoconnaug00irelgoog, Chapter 1

This book is in the public domain; how the books' rights are judged. The passages are quoted as the scan has them, spelling and all; a story's place is the gazetteer's best reading of the text and can be wrong.

A Visit to Connaught in the Autumn of 1847: A Letter Addressed to the ...

The stories, best first

Belmullet: fever described as a plague

Famine at Dunglow: no meal and starving mountaineers

Belmullet sessions: milch cow seized for unpaid rent

Erris barony famine catastrophe and mass mortality

Eviction by civil bill process in County Mayo

Destitution and street deaths at Belmullet

Emigration passage from Galway to Liverpool

Mass eviction at Keel fishing village on Achill Island

Clifden workhouse closed, expelled inmates shelter in gravel holes

Loan funds curragh fishery and workhouse rescue at Achill Sound

Temporary workhouse at Binghamstown overwhelmed by evicted poor

140 famine dead buried along Clifden roads

Bog huts and extreme hunger near Belmullet

Death from cold and hunger at Barrack

Famine destitution and relief at the Claddagh

Widow's potato crop seized in Erris village

Assassinations and evictions in Roscommon

Ballina workhouse overcrowding and mass deaths

Devastation at Binghamstown

Erris barony: intense misery among bog-dwellers

Galway gentleman's house turned manufacturer's warehouse

Lord George Hill's estate at Gweedore during famine

Westport workhouse overwhelmed by evicted tenants

Spade husbandry experiment near Ballina

Starvation diet in Erris and the Mullet

Extreme want of clothing in Sligo and Mayo

Evictions and fever in Erris village on Sir R. Palmer's estate

Belmullet fish curing station yields little in first year

Extreme want of clothing in Mayo

Landlord's ignorance of evictions near Newport

The Claddagh fishing colony of Galway

Lord George Hill's estate: rundale and land subdivision

Carrick-on-Shannon workhouse besieged by fever-stricken poor

Industrial manufactures at Newport, Mayo

Landlord dies of fever at Binghamstown poor-house

Bangor Erris: waste land and crowds imploring for food

Over-stocked fish market at Galway

Protestant clergyman's linen manufactory at Newport

Fear of rent seizure in Mayo

Scotch smack selling fish in Westport despite local abundance

Sir R. O'Donnell employs 1,000 in Newport flax harvest

Erris as a specimen of failed landlordism

Mining employment and security in Tipperary

Ballinrobe workhouse officers and inmates perished

Fisheries and food relief on the Erris coast

Government fisheries market at Belmullet

Potential for outrage in Donegal and Mayo

Recent house demolitions at Tiraun

Atkinson estate drainage: sole improvement in Erris

Swineford Union poor-house: deep prejudice overcome by famine

Eviction and house destruction at Tiraun

Reclaimable waste lands of Erris

Vast extent of Ballina Poor Law Union

Ballycroy's lack of gentry, minister, market and medical care

Emigration agents at Killala and Sligo during Famine

Flour and skutching mill under construction at Newport

Alleged superstitions of the Claddagh people

Fisheries potential of Galway and Mayo coasts

Verifying eviction conditions around Belmullet

Projected railway from Mullingar to Galway