The Beauties of the Boyne, and its Tributary, the Blackwater

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. The entrenched rath on the Hill of Slane

   Hill of Slane · hill or hills · Meath

   On the western brow of the hill above Slane town stands a noble circular entrenched rath, possibly the seat of the palace of the monarch Slanius, from whom the place's name is derived; this is also given as his burial place.

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   Let us pass under the handsome gate of Slane demesne, through the neat little town adjoining, where, at its comfortable hotel, we may enjoy as bright and generous a glass of claret, and receive as good cheer, as at any similar establishment with which we are acquainted; and then climb the hill which rises immediately over the town. On the western brow of the hill stands a noble circular, entrenched rath, possibly the seat of the palace of the monarch from Avhom its present name is derived. "We are now upon the wooded height which so frequently caught our eye as we passed down the Boyne, and upon the spot so

   often referred to in the foregoing descriptions, — Slane, the early residence and the burial-place of King Slanius (see page 14). Ascending the hill, we stand beside a group of ruins, the remains of the church and monastery fi2:ured above.

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   As the companion tells it

   Up on the hill above the town of Slane, on its western brow, stands a noble circular entrenched rath. It may be the site of the palace of the monarch Slanius, from whom Slane takes its name. The same spot is given as his burial place. A group of ruins nearby are the remains of a church and monastery. This wooded height caught the eye repeatedly along the Boyne, and the old accounts return to it again and again as the early residence of a king whose name still clings to the hill.

2. The expression 'a Teltown marriage' still used in Meath

   Teltown · townland · Meath

   The phrase 'a Teltown marriage' remained in common use in County Meath as a byword for a temporary or informal union, referencing the ancient custom.

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   * A somewhat similar custom existed in Wales, and parts of England and Scotland, till very lately. The expression, " a Teltown marriage," is often used in Meath to this day.

   152 THE GREAT FORT OF TAILTEAN.

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   As the companion tells it

   Close to Teltown, in Meath, people still use the phrase a Teltown marriage to mean an informal union. The custom it recalls had parallels in Wales, and parts of England and Scotland, lasting there till very lately.

3. The Greek Church of Trim and speculation on Grecian settlers

   Trim · town · Meath

   A church at Trim called Grcccorum Ecclesia was thought by Sir James Ware to offer traces of ancient Grecians having been in Ireland, though the author notes this may simply reflect a name derived from doctrine or architectural style rather than actual settlement.

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   There Avere also a nunnery and a Greek church at Trim, which latter has been supposed to afford some evidence of a Grecian people settling in Ireland. Sir James Ware says : " I confess, indeed, that there remain some small traces of the ancient Grecians having been in this country, in a church at Trim, in Meath, called Grcccorum Ecclesiaf but as the only foundation for this supposition merely consists in the name, it may as likely have been given from some peculiarity in the doctrines or form of worship of those who frequented it, or from some similarity in its architecture to the Grecian or Pelasgic type, as we now speak of Grecian, Cyclopean, Roman, Saxon, or Norman masonry in some of our early churches. The question is still an open one.

   The military buildings of Trim next claim our attention.

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   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Trim, there was once a church here called Grcccorum Ecclesia, a Greek church, that some thought was evidence of Grecian people settling in Ireland. Sir James Ware confessed there remain some small traces of the ancient Grecians having been in this country, but the only foundation for the supposition is the name itself. It may as likely have been given from some peculiarity in the doctrines or form of worship of those who frequented it, or from some similarity in its architecture to the Grecian or Pelasgic type. The question, as the author notes, is still an open one.

4. The Lia Fail at Tara

   Tara · parish · Meath

   The Lia Fail, or Stone of Destiny, supposedly removed to Scone and then Westminster, is said still to remain at Tara, forming a rich subject for the civil history of the kingdom.

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   We might, by merely paraphrasing the translations of authentic Irish history, occiipy pages in recounting the deeds of Patrick, when he converted the Irish monarch and the whole court at Tara. We might, even now, preach with the sermons, and enliven modern Christianity with the hymns of our patron saint. We could tell of the cursing of Temur by St. Ruadhan, and its subsequent desertion. Or again, we might trace the various raths, and descant upon the wells and pillarstones which consecrate this spot. The Lia Fail, or stone of destiny, supposed to have been removed to Scone, and from Scone to Westminster, but which is still, it appears, uudoubtedly at Tara, would in itself form a text for an entire chapter upon the civil history of this kingdom; while the name of St. Adamnan is a fitting proem for an hour's dissertation on our early ecclesiastical writings, and the colonies which sprung from this Isle of Saints, even to the far-famed lona. Or, to come down to later years, the graves of the croppies, the lyrics of Tom Moore, and the monster meetings, would lead us far beyond the limits of this little work. Were we to allow ourselves the latitude we should desire, or, perhaps, the subject deserves, we would carry our readers to the opposite hill of Skreen, the ancient Acaill, and while we pointed out, from that elevated situation, the extensive prospect of the broad lands and fair mansions, the castles, churches, and monasteries, so full of interest in themselves, and such embellishments to the extended landscape within view, with the " Pleasant Boyne" gliding smoothly by them, we could also tell of the wonders of the locality whereon we stood, and call to our readers' recollection the legends about the shrine of Columba, and the history of the battles fought here by the Ostmen of old, and also refer to its occupation, in more modern times, by the Feypos, and Cusacks, and Verdons.

   For all that is known, or can, in all probability, be known,

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   As the companion tells it

   As the road takes you through the parish of Tara, you pass near one of the most contested stones in Irish history. The Lia Fail, or Stone of Destiny, is supposed to have been removed to Scone, and from Scone to Westminster. But the writer of this old account says the stone is still, as he puts it, "undoubtedly at Tara," and that it alone would form a text for an entire chapter upon the civil history of this kingdom. Patrick came to this ground and converted the Irish monarch and the whole court. Saint Ruadhan cursed Temur, and afterward the place was deserted. There are various raths, and wells, and pillar stones which consecrate the spot. The name of Saint Adamnan opens onto the early ecclesiastical writings, and the colonies which sprang from this Isle of Saints, even to far-famed Iona. In later years, the graves of the croppies, the lyrics of Tom Moore, and the monster meetings all belong to this same ground. From the opposite hill of Skreen, the ancient Acaill, the prospect opens to broad lands and fair mansions, castles, churches, and monasteries, with the "Pleasant Boyne" gliding smoothly by. There are legends about the shrine of Columba, battles fought here by the Ostmen of old, and occupation in more modern times by the Feypos, the Cusacks, and the Verdons.

5. The Mound of the Grave of the Wife of Gobhan at Drogheda

   Drogheda · town · Louth

   The great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands is identified in the Annals as the mound known as the grave of the Wife of Gobhan, situated on the southern bank of the Boyne.

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   About a mile and a half below Slane, and extending along the northern bank of the river, we meet the great Irish cemetery to which we have just alluded. This consists chiefly of a number of sepulchral mounds, or barrows, varying in magnitude, and occupying a space of about a mile in breadth, north- Avard of the river's bank, and stretching from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne, over a distance of nearly three miles. In this sj^ace we find the remains of no less than seventeen sepulchral barrows, some of these — the smaller ones — situated in the green pasture lands, which form the immediate valley of the Boyne, while the three of greatest magnitude are placed on the summit of the ridge which bounds this valley upon the left bank, and a few others are to be found atMonk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill, towards Louth; making upwards of twenty in all, including the remains at Cloghalea, and the great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, and known in the Annals as the mound of the grave of the Wife of Gobhan. This latter, however, is on the right or southern bank.

   The three great mounds of Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth, principally demand attention, not only on account of their magnitude, but because one of them has remained open for some years, and a third has been lately examined. Each of these is situated within view of the other, and at about a mile distant, and consists, at first sight, of a great natural hill, rising abruptly from the surrounding siirface ; and this idea is rather strengthened by the circumstance of one of these having become covered with wood, and another having until lately borne on its summit a modern stone building. An eye

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   As the companion tells it

   As the road brings you through Drogheda, you are passing over ground that belongs to one of the great cemetery landscapes along the Boyne. About a mile and a half below Slane, along the northern bank of the river, there stretches a vast Irish cemetery of sepulchral mounds, or barrows, varying in size, occupying roughly a mile in breadth northward of the river's bank and running from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne over a distance of nearly three miles. In this space stand the remains of no fewer than seventeen barrows. Some of the smaller ones sit in the green pasture lands of the immediate valley of the Boyne. The three of greatest magnitude are placed on the summit of the ridge that bounds this valley upon the left bank. A few others are found at Monk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill towards Louth. All together this makes upwards of twenty, including the remains at Cloghalea and the great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands. That moat is the mound known in the Annals as the grave of the Wife of Gobhan, and it stands on the southern bank of the Boyne. The three great mounds of Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth demand the most attention, not only for their magnitude but because one has remained open for some years and a third has been lately examined. Each is within view of the others, about a mile apart, and consists at first sight of a great natural hill rising abruptly from the surrounding surface.

6. The Yellow Steeple and town walls of Trim

   Trim · town · Meath · 1449

   Trim's ancient steeple of its parish church was erected in 1449 by Richard Duke of York, and remnants of the town wall with its Sheep and Water-gates still mark the ancient boundary in wonderfully perfect condition.

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   We might now conduct our readers over the numerous other interesting remains which still hallow and adorn Ath- Truim, — the ancient steeple of its parish church, erected in 1449 by Richard Duke of York, — the remnants of the town wall, which mark the ancient boundary, with its Sheep and Water-gates, still wonderfully perfect. We might visit the site of the meeting of its last parliament, speculate upon the locality of its mint, or enumerate the various coinages struck there; we might occupy pages with its annals; the miracles said to be wrought in its abbeys; the sieges which it sustained; the plagues with which it was visited ; and the conflagrations Avhich it suffered; — but neither our space nor the object of this book admit of this.

   Somewhat less than a mile below Trim, within a magnificent sweep of the river, and beside the bridge of Newtown, on both sides of which they extend, we find a group of monastic remains which, with the exception of the Yellow Steeple, far surpass any of those now existing at Trim ; the abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, with the remains of the ancient cloister; and the broad parterre, or terrace, which stretched down to the water's edge, and where the good monks of old quaffed their wine by the banks of the Boyne, in the calm summer evenings, before the vesper bell summoned the community to worship. Unlike the military and ecclesiastical ruins of many other localities in Ireland, choked by the dilapidated buildings of some Avretched dirty town, like the rank weeds of a neglected garden obscuring its urns and statues, those of Newtown- Trim stand alone and distinct on a swelling bank of the river, whose stream seems here to linger by them, as if in memory of their by-gone splendour, and stretch, without even a wall or fence to break the foreground, over nearly an acre of the richest turf, and surrounded by the greenest verdure in the broad plains of Meath.

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   As the companion tells it

   Trim was once called Ath-Truim, and it carries the marks of centuries. The ancient steeple of its parish church, known as the Yellow Steeple, was erected in 1449 by Richard Duke of York. It still stands, and the remnants of the town wall mark the old boundary, with the Sheep-gate and the Water-gate still wonderfully perfect. The wall and its gates trace the line that once enclosed the town, and the steeple rises above what was the parish church. The annals of Trim run deep. The book that records these remains tells us it might occupy pages with them. There were miracles said to be wrought in its abbeys. There were sieges which the town sustained, plagues with which it was visited, and conflagrations it suffered. There was a parliament held here, and a mint where various coinages were struck. But the book sets those aside, and so the stones are left to speak. The Yellow Steeple stands apart from the other monastic remains near Trim, which the book says far surpass any others still existing at the town. These are the abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, with the remains of the ancient cloister, and the broad terrace that stretched down to the water's edge, where the monks of old quaffed their wine by the banks of the Boyne in the calm summer evenings before the vesper bell summoned the community to worship. The river seems to linger by them, the book says, as if in memory of their bygone splendour.

7. Trim castle's outer wall and flanking towers

   Trim · town · Meath

   The outer wall of Trim castle, once surrounded by a deep fosse fed by the Boyne, measures 486 yards in length and is defended by ten flanking towers at nearly equal distances, with the town gate and barbican remains still in wonderful preservation.

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   the hills of Skreen and Tara, the mountains of Kildare and Dublin, the tower of Kells, and, in a word, a territory of which the lords of Trim may well have felt provid. The outer wall, which was surrounded by a deep fosse, through which the waters of the Boyne were originally admitted (thus completely insulating the fortress), is 486 yards in length, and defended by ten flanking towers at nearly equal distances. The gate towards the town, and the barbican, with the remains of their portcullisses, draw-bridges, and all the most approved military inventions of the day, are still in wonderful preservation. On the whole, we know of no castle in Ireland which affords the same scope for the study of the military architecture of the thirteenth century as this, which may justly be classed with those of Conway and Caernarvon. Within the wall, on the river side, we find the remains of a chapel, perhaps that used by the common soldiery ; while two niches, resembling piscina?, in the interior of one of the castle towers, mark the site of a small private chapel within. Adjoining the large chapel near the external wall are the remains of a tower supposed to have been the mint.

   Our space, however, will not permit our entering at any length into the details of this noble structure, connected with which we find so many historic occurrences and classic associations. Besides those already enumerated, we cannot forget the pageants and tournaments of the celebrated Earl of Ulster ; the imprisonment of the families of the Dukes of Gloucester and Lancaster, during the time of Richard of England's sojourn in this country; the confinement here of the royal hero of Agincourt; its occupation by the De Lacys, the Mortimers, the Verdons, and Cootes, its parliaments and its sieges; — all of which throw a degree of splendour over the ruins of Trim.

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   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Trim in Meath, the castle's outer wall still stands around the fortress. A deep fosse once surrounded it, fed by the waters of the Boyne, completely isolating the stronghold. The wall runs 486 yards in length and is defended by ten flanking towers at nearly equal distances. The gate towards the town and the barbican, with remains of their portcullises, drawbridges, and other military devices, are still in wonderful preservation. The writer says no castle in Ireland offers the same scope for studying thirteenth-century military architecture, and classes it with Conway and Caernarvon. Within the wall on the river side are the remains of a chapel, perhaps used by the common soldiery. Two niches resembling piscinae in one of the castle towers mark a small private chapel. Adjoining the larger chapel near the external wall are the remains of a tower thought to have been the mint. The ruins carry many historic associations. The Earl of Ulster held pageants and tournaments here. The families of the Dukes of Gloucester and Lancaster were imprisoned in the castle during Richard of England's stay in the country. The royal hero of Agincourt was confined here. The De Lacys, the Mortimers, the Verdons, and the Cootes all occupied it. Its parliaments and its sieges, all throw a degree of splendour over the ruins of Trim.

8. Village of Oldbridge in 1690 with church and stone house

   Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690

   In 1690, the small village of Oldbridge stood opposite the shallowest ford of the Boyne on the Meath side, containing a small church, a large slated house, and several cabins, as shown in contemporary depictions.

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   three miles lower down than Slane, and something more than that distance from the hill of Donore. At the weir, where the tide ends, near the entrance of the Mattock river, the Boyne is fordable in dry weather, but with difficulty, and the right bank rises rather precipitously immediately beyond its margin. Finally, the river turns towards the south-west, and just below the site now occupied by the obelisk, it enlarges considerably, and several islands occur in it ; the most extensive of these are. Grove Island and Yellow Island, the former containing more than five acres, and the latter about sixteen. The shallowest ford occurs here; an old road leads down to it, and it is passable for a carriage and horses, at low water, in summer-time. Immediately opposite this ford, upon the Meath or southern side, stood, in 1690, the little village of Oldbridge. From an old French bird's-eye view of the battle-field, published shortly after the action, as well as from the tapestry in the Irish House of Lords, still kept up in the Bank of Ireland, it would appear that there was, at the time of the action, a small church in the village of Oldbridge. There certainly was a large slated house, besides a number of small cabins.

   The locality which we have here described may, properly speaking, be called the battle-field of the 1st of July; but a considerable portion of it, particularly opposite the fords, is now obscured by the plantations of Mr. Coddington's demesne adjoining.

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   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, on the Meath side of the Boyne, stood the little village of Oldbridge in 1690. The river is fordable at the weir where the tide ends, near the entrance of the Mattock river, though only in dry weather and with difficulty. The right bank rises steeply just beyond the water's edge. The river then turns towards the south-west, and below where the obelisk now stands, it widens considerably, with several islands in it. The most extensive are Grove Island, containing more than five acres, and Yellow Island, about sixteen. The shallowest ford occurs here. An old road leads down to it, and it is passable for a carriage and horses at low water in summer. Immediately opposite this ford, on the Meath or southern side, stood the village. From an old French bird's-eye view of the battlefield, published shortly after the action, as well as from the tapestry in the Irish House of Lords, still kept in the Bank of Ireland, it appears there was a small church in the village. There was certainly a large slated house, besides a number of small cabins. This locality may properly be called the battlefield of the 1st of July, though a considerable portion of it, particularly opposite the fords, is now obscured by the plantations of Mr. Coddington's demesne adjoining.

9. 1399 inquisition dispute over Ballybogan priorship

   Ballybogan · townland · Donegal · 1399

   An inquisition taken in 1399 found that John O'Mayller, an Irishman deemed an enemy of the King, had been instituted to the priory, but Richard Cuthbert proved the priory was dedicated to the Holy Trinity rather than the Virgin Mary and that he was the lawful prior, and was restored.

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   Archdall has collected with great care some curious notices of this monastic edifice, which was founded in the twelfth century by Jordan Comin,f under the invocation of the IIolv Trinity, for canons of the order of St. Augustine, and was originally called " The Priory de Laude Dei." By an inquisition taken in the year 1399, "it was found that John O'Mayller, a mere Irishman, and of the Irish sept of the O'Mayllers, enemies to our Lord the King, was instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan ; but Richard Cuthbert did on the same day make due proof that the said priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary, but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior thereof. Cuthbert was accordingly restored to the temporalities.";}: From the well of Ballybogan, or Lady Well, being dedicated to the Virgin, it is not improbable that there may have been some earlier monastic buildings here vinder the same invocation, and that hence arose the dispute just referred to.

   In 1404 King Henry IV. granted certain lands belonging to the prior of Ballybogan, in the county of Dublin, to one AVilliam Stokynbrygge. Dudley Firbisse records the burning to the ground of this priory about the middle of the fifteenth century. The last prior was Thomas Bermingham, and the following inventory of his possessions has been preserved upon the surrender of his church property to Henry VIII. , in 1537-

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   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Ballybogan, a priory once stood that gives this place its story. It was founded in the 12th century by Jordan Comin, under the invocation of the Holy Trinity, for canons of the order of Saint Augustine, and was originally called the Priory de Laude Dei. By an inquisition taken in 1399, it was found that John O'Mayller, described as "a mere Irishman, and of the Irish sept of the O'Mayllers, enemies to our Lord the King," had been instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan. But on the same day, Richard Cuthbert made due proof that the priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary, but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior. Cuthbert was accordingly restored to the temporalities. The confusion may have arisen from the well of Ballybogan, or Lady Well, which was dedicated to the Virgin. There may have been earlier monastic buildings here under that same invocation. In 1404, Henry IV granted certain lands belonging to the prior of Ballybogan, in the county of Dublin, to one William Stokynbrygge. Dudley Firbisse records the burning to the ground of this priory about the middle of the 15th century. The last prior was Thomas Bermingham, who surrendered his church property to Henry VIII in 1537.

10. Cormac Mac Art among the earliest Irish converts to Christianity

    Tara · parish · Meath

    Cormac Mac Art is said to have been the third person to accept Christianity in Ireland before the time of Patrick.

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    Two of the most celebrated Irishmen of early times died on the Boyne's bank : Finn Mac Cumhaill, the renowned warrior, popularly known as Fin-ma-Cool, who was killed with a dart or gaff by a fisherman named Athlach, at Ath-Brea or Eath- Breagha,f and also his father-in-law, King Cormac Mac Art, the grandson of Con of the Hundred Battles, who died from a fish-bone having stuck in his throat. The circumstances attending the death of the latter are here worth recording. He was one of the most renowned, just, and wise of the monarchs of Tara, and is said to have been the third person who accepted Christianity in Erin before the time of Patrick. One of his eyes having been destroyed by the warrior Engus Gaibhuaibhnech, he afterwards generally resided at Acaill (now Skreeu), at Kells, or at the. House of Cletty (Cletigh, Cleiteach, or Cletech), as "it was not lawful that a king with a personal blemish should reside at Tara.":|: Two years after the loss of his eye, he was suffocated, from the bone of a salmon having stuck in his throat, at this House of Cletty, the site of which has not yet been determined by topographers. The name, the situation, and the remains at Clady, afford us, however, some clue to it. In several Irish manuscripts, both in prose and verse, this house is alluded to as being over or above the Boyne (" Cletig supra Boin"), and in the vicinity of Tara, to both of which circumstances this place accurately answers ; but furthermore we learn something of its precise locality from the account given of the death of King Muircheartach Mac Earca, nearly two centuries and a half after the time of Cormac. He was burned to death in the House of Cletty, by his mistress Sheen, after the battle of Kirb, — a spot believed to be Assey, upon the opposite side of the Boyne. St. Cairneach, of Tuilen (now Dulane, near Kells), cursed the place, and it was soon after deserted. His prophecy is recorded in the Annals of Tighernach. King Cormac's death took place, according to the Four Masters, A. D. 266, " at Cleiteach, the bone

    * See the Dublin Penny Journal, vol. iii. p. 350.

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    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through the parish of Tara, in Meath. Tara was the seat of Cormac Mac Art, grandson of Con of the Hundred Battles, one of the most renowned, just, and wise monarchs to rule there. He is said to have been the third person to accept Christianity in Erin before the time of Patrick. The warrior Engus Gaibh-uaibhnech destroyed one of Cormac's eyes, and after that he could not remain at Tara, for it was not lawful that a king with a personal blemish should reside there. He lived instead at Acaill, now Skreen, at Kells, or at the House of Cletty. Two years after the loss of his eye, he suffocated when the bone of a salmon stuck in his throat, at this House of Cletty. According to the Four Masters, his death took place in the year 266. The site of the House of Cletty has not been determined by topographers. Irish manuscripts, both prose and verse, allude to it as being over or above the Boyne, in the vicinity of Tara. The name, situation, and remains at Clady offer some clue. Nearly two and a half centuries after Cormac's time, King Muircheartach Mac Earca was burned to death in the same House of Cletty by his mistress Sheen, after the battle of Kirb, a spot believed to be Assey on the opposite side of the Boyne. St. Cairneach of Tuilen, now Dulane near Kells, cursed the place, and it was soon after deserted. His prophecy is recorded in the Annals of Tighernach.

11. Destruction of a ring fort and mound at Rossan

    Rossnaree · townland · Meath · 1847

    At the mill of Rossan in Monk-Newtown, a ring fort and a smaller version of New Grange were rudely torn asunder in the spring of 1847 by someone who converted stones from the monument into gate-posts.

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    of Rossan, in Monk-Newtown, we could examine, with much interest, a ring fort and another New Grange, upon a minor scale, which was rudely torn asunder, and left in a dilapidated condition, in the spring of 1847, by some Goth, in order to convert a few of its stones into gate-posts : but we can now merely direct attention to the sites of these latter.

    Within the demesne of Dowth or Netterville is to be seen one of the very largest ring forts or military raths in Ireland, except, perhaps, the Giant's Ring at Belfast. It is about 300 paces in circumference, round the top of the embankment, and has a large opening on the south-western side. This O'Donovan supposes was the fort of Dun-na-nGedh, where Domhnall gave his celebrated feast, to which we alluded at p. 176.*

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    As the companion tells it

    Close to Rossnaree, there was once a ring fort and something like a smaller Newgrange. They stood together and were worth examining with much interest. In the spring of 1847, someone tore them rudely asunder and left them in a dilapidated condition, taking a few of their stones to make gate-posts. The writer calls that person a Goth, meaning a destroyer of ancient things. All that remained even then was the sites of these monuments. The ring fort and the minor Newgrange are gone now, broken up for gate-posts.

12. Edenderry Castle and silver-mine of the Blundells

    Edenderry · town · Offaly

    Edenderry, a neat and clean town belonging to the Marquis of Downshire, contains the castle of the Blundells crowning a wooded height, along with the remains of an adjoining silver-mine.

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    Our next resting-place is Edenderry, "theheightor brow of the oaks," about midway between Avhich and Carbery we cross theriver by a small bridge,* forming the boundary between Kildare and King's County, which we now enter. It is a neat, wellbuilt, and remarkably clean town, belonging to the Marquis of Downshire ; but possesses little worthy of inspection to the antiquarian tourist except the castle of the Blundells, the ancestors of its present noble possessor, Avhich crowns its wooded height, and the remains of a silver-mine adjoining.| As we leave the town, on the road to Monasteroris, the next point of attraction, we pass through a suburb of small cottages, Avith well-tended gardens in front of them, characterised by a degree of care, neatness, cleanliness, and, above all, by an appearance of industry and thrift quite unusual in Ireland. These cot-

    the nearest railroad station to the Boyne's source, after passing the little village of .Tohnsto-\\-n, Mylerstown castle can be seen about a mile to the right of the roa<l to Carl^ery. It is worth inj^pection.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    Edenderry takes its name from the height or brow of the oaks. The road approaching it crosses a small bridge that marks the boundary between Kildare and King's County, and then the town begins. It is a neat, well-built, and remarkably clean place, belonging to the Marquis of Downshire. What it offers beyond that is the castle of the Blundells, the ancestors of its present noble possessor, crowning a wooded height, and the remains of a silver-mine adjoining. As the road leaves the town toward Monasteroris, it passes through a suburb of small cottages with well-tended gardens in front of them, marked by a degree of care, neatness, cleanliness, and above all an appearance of industry and thrift the writer calls ‘quite unusual in Ireland.’

13. Feats of throwing stones over the round tower

    Monasterboice · townland · Louth

    The author describes measuring the great cross by throwing a stone with a marked tape over its top, noting that throwing a stone over the round tower is considered a great feat by local rustics, a custom also observed at Glendalough.

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    * We lately measured this cross, by throwing a small stone, with a marked tape attached to it, over the ridge at top. For a person standing near its base to throw a stone over the round tower is considered one of the great feats of the rustics here. So is it at Glendalough, and wherever a round tower is to be found in Ireland.

    muiredach's cross.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 169

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Monasterboice stands Muiredach's cross. The author measured this great cross by throwing a stone with a marked tape over its top. He notes that throwing a stone over the round tower is counted a great feat among the local people. The same custom is found at Glendalough.

14. Founding of Ballybogan Priory by Jordan Comin

    Ballybogan · townland · Donegal · 1100–1199

    The monastic edifice at Ballybogan was founded in the twelfth century by Jordan Comin under the invocation of the Holy Trinity, for canons of the order of St. Augustine, and was originally called 'The Priory de Laude Dei'.

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    Archdall has collected with great care some curious notices of this monastic edifice, which was founded in the twelfth century by Jordan Comin,f under the invocation of the IIolv Trinity, for canons of the order of St. Augustine, and was originally called " The Priory de Laude Dei." By an inquisition taken in the year 1399, "it was found that John O'Mayller, a mere Irishman, and of the Irish sept of the O'Mayllers, enemies to our Lord the King, was instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan ; but Richard Cuthbert did on the same day make due proof that the said priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary, but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior thereof. Cuthbert was accordingly restored to the temporalities.";}: From the well of Ballybogan, or Lady Well, being dedicated to the Virgin, it is not improbable that there may have been some earlier monastic buildings here vinder the same invocation, and that hence arose the dispute just referred to.

    In 1404 King Henry IV. granted certain lands belonging to the prior of Ballybogan, in the county of Dublin, to one AVilliam Stokynbrygge. Dudley Firbisse records the burning to the ground of this priory about the middle of the fifteenth century. The last prior was Thomas Bermingham, and the following inventory of his possessions has been preserved upon the surrender of his church property to Henry VIII. , in 1537-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in Ballybogan, a priory was founded in the twelfth century by Jordan Comin, under the invocation of the Holy Trinity, for canons of the order of St. Augustine. It was originally called "The Priory de Laude Dei." By an inquisition taken in 1399, it was found that John O'Mayller, described as a mere Irishman and of the Irish sept of the O'Mayllers, enemies to the Lord the King, was instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan. But Richard Cuthbert made due proof on the same day that the priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary, but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior. Cuthbert was accordingly restored to the temporalities. From the well of Ballybogan, or Lady Well, being dedicated to the Virgin, it is not improbable that there may have been some earlier monastic buildings here under the same invocation, and that hence arose the dispute. In 1404 King Henry IV granted certain lands belonging to the prior of Ballybogan, in the county of Dublin, to one William Stokynbrygge. Dudley Firbisse records the burning to the ground of this priory about the middle of the fifteenth century. The last prior was Thomas Bermingham, whose possessions were inventoried upon the surrender of his church property to Henry VIII in 1537.

15. Legend of Columba reading by finger-light at Clonard

    Clonard · town · Meath

    A legendary tale attached to Clonard abbey tells of Columba, son of Crimthan, being seen late one night reading the sacred volume by a light emanating from the tips of his fingers as he passed them over the pages.

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    Amongst the legendary lore attached to this abbey, is a tale of Columba, the son of Crimthan, having been seen late one night in his cell, when his lamp had expired, reading the sacred volume by a light which emanated from the tips of his fingers, as he passed them over the leaves before him.

    At the beginning of this century, and indeed till a very modern date, the ruins of some of the many buildings which once adorned this memorable locality were in existence. Archdall thus describes them : " The entrance into this abbey, on the west side, was through a small building, with a lodge

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clonard in Meath, there's a legend tied to its old abbey. Columba, son of Crimthan, was seen late one night in his cell, his lamp gone out, reading the sacred volume by a light that came from the tips of his fingers as he passed them over the pages. The ruins of several buildings that once stood here were still visible at the start of this century, including a small entrance building on the west side with a lodge.

16. Michael de Cusack marries Margaret Dexter, gaining Rathaldron

    Rathaldron · townland · Meath · 1553–1589

    A manuscript genealogy records that Michael de Cusack, lord of Portrane and Rathaldron, married Margaret Dexter who brought him the castle, town and lands of Rathaldron; he served as an Exchequer Baron and died in 1589.

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    The name of the husband of Margaret Dexter Mr. Smith soon after learned from a manuscript in the possession of Mr. H. T. Cusack. " This MS. is written in French, and entitled ' An Historical Memoir and Genealogy of the ancient and illustrious House of Cusack, of the Kingdom of Ireland.' It appears to have been compiled by the Chevalier O'Gorman in the year 1767. It states that ' Michael de Cusack, lord of Portrane and Rathaldron, married Margaret Dexter, who brought him, as a marriage portion, the castle, town, and lands of Rathaldron. He was ' Grelfier' [a term which Boyer translates ' Registrar,' or Keeper of the Rolls] of Westmeath and of Louth in 1553, one of the Barons of the Exchequer in 1580, and died in 1589-' From this it may be safely concluded that the initials ' M. C upon the cross are those of ' Michael Cusack,' and that his was the name sculptured on the upper part of the cross, now lost."

    159

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a manuscript tells us, Margaret Dexter married Michael de Cusack, and what she brought him was the castle, town, and lands of Rathaldron. The manuscript is written in French, compiled by the Chevalier O'Gorman in 1767, and it was in the possession of H. T. Cusack. It calls Michael de Cusack the lord of Portrane and of this place. In 1553 he served as Grelfier of Westmeath and of Louth, a term that translates as Registrar or Keeper of the Rolls. By 1580 he had become one of the Barons of the Exchequer. He died in 1589. From this record it was concluded that the initials M. C carved upon a cross are those of Michael Cusack, and that his name was once sculptured on the upper part of that cross, now lost.

17. Navan's origins as a walled town founded by Hugh de Lacy

    Navan · town · Meath · 1170–1250

    Navan was originally a parliamentary borough and place of considerable note, having been walled by Hugh de Lacy and containing an abbey founded by Jocelyn de Nangle on the site now occupied by the barrack.

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    bitants, and is not without its wealthy trader and thriving petty merchant. A churcli, a chapel, an infirmary, a bride- Avell, Avorkhouse, and fever hospital, constitute its modern erections. It was originally a parliamentary borough, and in olden times was a place of considerable note, having been walled by Hugh de Lacy, and containing an abbey, founded by Jocelyn de Nangle, on the site now occupied by the barrack. It is probable that a cross existed in this town ; and, in all likelihood, it stood in the market-place, where all the passing funerals now make a solemn circuit. A friend of our's possesses a portion of a small sculptured cross lately dug up at Navan.

    The original name of Navan was Nuachongbhail. The Annals of the Four Masters aiford us an account of a great plundering of Meath, as far as Tara, by the O'Neills and O'Donnells, in the year 1539: " They obtained immense and innumerable spoils on this expedition, for the Irish had not in latter times assembled to oppose the English army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this plundering army; for many were spoils of gold and silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods and valuables, besides what they took from the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail, which they utterly plundered on that expedition."* When Lord Justice Leonard heard of this, he collected all the English forces in Ireland, and pursuing the invaders came up with them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued, in which the Irish were completly routed.f

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 84

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Navan in Meath, a town that was once a parliamentary borough and a place of considerable note in olden times. Hugh de Lacy walled it, and Jocelyn de Nangle founded an abbey here, on the site now occupied by the barrack. A cross probably stood in the town, most likely in the market-place, where all the passing funerals now make a solemn circuit. A portion of a small sculptured cross was lately dug up at Navan. The original name of Navan was Nuachongbhail. The Annals of the Four Masters give an account of a great plundering of Meath, as far as Tara, by the O'Neills and O'Donnells in the year 1539. They obtained immense and innumerable spoils on this expedition. The Irish had not in latter times assembled to oppose the English army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this plundering army, for many were the spoils of gold and silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods and valuables, besides what they took from the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail, which they utterly plundered on that expedition. When Lord Justice Leonard heard of this, he collected all the English forces in Ireland, and pursuing the invaders came up with them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued, in which the Irish were completely routed.

18. Red-haired skull found in field kistvaen near Portaferry

    near Portaferry · town · Down

    In the same field where Nugent's tumulus was opened near Portaferry, small stone kistvaens had at various times been discovered, one containing a long, flat, narrow skull, and another, found by a local farmer while ploughing, containing a skull with deep red hair still attached.

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    to US, "a circle of large stones, containing an area of abouta rood. Between each of these stones there was a facing of flat ones, similar to the building of our modern fences. The outer coating was covered with white pebbles averaging the size of a gooseegg, of which there were several cart-loads — although it would be difficult to collect even a small quantity at present along the beach. "After this Avas taken away we came to a confused heap of rubbish, stones, and clay, and then some large flag-stones on their ends, — the tumulus still preserving a cone-shape. In the centre we came to a chamber about six feet long, formed by eight very large upright stones, with a large flag stone at the bottom, on which lay, in one heap of a foot in thickness, a mixture of black mould and bones." These bones, some of which were kindly iorwarded to us, are all human, and consist of portions of the ribs, vertebrae, and the ends of the long bones, together with pieces of the skull and some joints of the fingers of a full-grown jjerson, and also several bones of a very young child ; none of these had been subject to the action of fire ; but among the parcel forwarded to us were several fragments of incinerated or calcined bone, also human. Either these latter were portions of the same bodies burned, or they belonged to an individual sacrificed to the manes of the person whose grave this was ; and we are inclined to think the latter is the more probable, from the circumstances under which similar remains have been discovered in other localities. This tumulus was evidently of very ancient date, long prior to the authentic historic period, and was, we should say, erected over some person or family of note in their day. There were no urns, weapons, or ornaments discovered in connexion with it; but our informant states that, in the field in which this barrow was opened, there have been, at various times, small stone chambers or kistvaens discovered, similar to those described at page 230 ; and in one of these a skull of the long, flat, and narrow character, was some time ago dug up. A farmer in the vicinity likewise told Mr. Nugent that, many years ago while ploughing in this same field, he turned up a stone chamber of the same kind, and that it contained a skull with a portion of hair of a deep red colour attached to it.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    In a field near Portaferry, a farmer once struck a stone burial chamber while ploughing. Inside was a skull with a portion of deep red hair still attached to it. This was the same field where a tumulus had been opened and examined. It was a circle of large stones enclosing about a rood, with flat stones set between each of the larger ones, and an outer coating of white pebbles the size of goose eggs, cartloads of them. Beneath that lay a heap of stones and clay, then large flagstones standing on end, the mound still holding its cone shape. At the centre was a chamber about 6 feet long, formed by 8 large upright stones, with a flagstone at the bottom. On that flag lay a heap of black mould and bones, about a foot thick. The bones were all human. They included portions of ribs, vertebrae, the ends of long bones, pieces of skull, finger joints of a full-grown person, and several bones of a very young child. None had been burned. But among them were also fragments of calcined human bone, burned. These may have been the same bodies burned after burial, or they may have belonged to someone sacrificed for the dead. The finders thought the latter more likely, from what had been seen elsewhere. The tumulus was very ancient, long before the historic period, raised over someone of note. No urns, no weapons, no ornaments were found. But in that same field, small stone chambers called kistvaens had turned up at various times. One held a skull of a long, flat, and narrow character. And the farmer's plough had found another, with the red hair still on the skull inside.

19. Round tower of Trim burned in 1108 and 1127

    Trim · town · Meath · 1108–1127

    A cloictheach or round tower formerly existed at Trim; its burning by Conor O'Melaghlin in 1108 and by Conor Feargal O'Lochlinn in 1127 is recorded in several Irish Annals.

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    A cloictheacli, or round tower, formerly existed at Trim, the burning of Avhicli by Conor O'Melaghlin, in 1 1 08, and by Conor Feargal O'Lochlinn, in 1127, is mentioned in several of the Irisli Annals. Like Clonard, the ecclesiastical buildings at Trim suffered various conflagrations; but neither our space, nor the character of this work, permit us to follow out the wellrecorded annals of this or the other abbeys and monastic remains along our track, — consisting of notices of the celebrated persons who flourished or were interred in them, poets, priests, and warriors, mail-clad barons and palmer knights, holy nuns and pious monks; the various miracles wrought in these monasteries ; the plunderings, seizures, and dilapidations they sustained; the records of the privileges which they enjoyed, and the broad hinds they occupied; together with the offerings of the devotional, and the various plagues (from which Meath suffered so frequently and so severely) ; — which form the records of these establishments, — highly interesting, no doubt, in their way, but merely valuable to us for the epochs which they mark, and the historic facts which they attest.

    The Grey Friary of Observan tines stood by the water's edge, near the site of the present court-house, but all trace of it has been long since completely effaced.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Trim had a cloictheach, a round tower, that no longer stands. It was burned twice within nineteen years. Conor O'Melaghlin burned it in 1108. Conor Feargal O'Lochlinn burned it in 1127. Both burnings are recorded in several of the Irish Annals. Like Clonard, the ecclesiastical buildings at Trim suffered various conflagrations. The annals of these monasteries and abbeys along the Boyne hold notices of the celebrated persons who flourished or were interred in them: poets, priests, and warriors, mail-clad barons and palmer knights, holy nuns and pious monks. They record the miracles wrought in these monasteries, the plunderings, seizures, and dilapidations they sustained, the privileges they enjoyed and the broad lands they occupied, the offerings of the devotional, and the various plagues from which Meath suffered so frequently and so severely. The Grey Friary of Observantines once stood by the water's edge, near the site of the present court-house, but all trace of it has long since been completely effaced.

20. Sculptured crosses and inscribed bell-tower at Kells

    Kells · town · Meath · 1578

    Adjoining the round tower at Kells is a beautifully sculptured cross eleven feet four inches high; within the churchyard is a second larger cross; and the third great sculptured cross stands in the market-place. The square bell-tower bears an inscription recording rebuilding of the church in 1578.

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    The square bell- tower stands distinct and separate from the modern church ; it consists of three stories ending in a spire ; and some sculptured stones and tablets, probably much older than this structure, are bviilt into its side walls, as well as an ancient inscription in old black letter characters, recording the re-edification of the adjoining church in 1578.*

    * For the following literal transcript of this inscription we arc indebted to our learned friend, Joseph Huband Smith, Esq. It is on two separate stones :

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    Kells has a square bell-tower standing apart from the modern church, three stories rising to a spire. Older sculptured stones are built into its walls, and an inscription in old black letter records the re-edification of the adjoining church in 1578. Sculptured crosses stand here too, one by the round tower over eleven feet high, a second in the churchyard, a third in the market-place.

21. St. Ruadhan's Curse of Tara

    Tara · parish · Meath

    Tradition holds that St. Ruadhan cursed Temur (Tara), leading to its subsequent desertion as a royal seat.

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    We might, by merely paraphrasing the translations of authentic Irish history, occiipy pages in recounting the deeds of Patrick, when he converted the Irish monarch and the whole court at Tara. We might, even now, preach with the sermons, and enliven modern Christianity with the hymns of our patron saint. We could tell of the cursing of Temur by St. Ruadhan, and its subsequent desertion. Or again, we might trace the various raths, and descant upon the wells and pillarstones which consecrate this spot. The Lia Fail, or stone of destiny, supposed to have been removed to Scone, and from Scone to Westminster, but which is still, it appears, uudoubtedly at Tara, would in itself form a text for an entire chapter upon the civil history of this kingdom; while the name of St. Adamnan is a fitting proem for an hour's dissertation on our early ecclesiastical writings, and the colonies which sprung from this Isle of Saints, even to the far-famed lona. Or, to come down to later years, the graves of the croppies, the lyrics of Tom Moore, and the monster meetings, would lead us far beyond the limits of this little work. Were we to allow ourselves the latitude we should desire, or, perhaps, the subject deserves, we would carry our readers to the opposite hill of Skreen, the ancient Acaill, and while we pointed out, from that elevated situation, the extensive prospect of the broad lands and fair mansions, the castles, churches, and monasteries, so full of interest in themselves, and such embellishments to the extended landscape within view, with the " Pleasant Boyne" gliding smoothly by them, we could also tell of the wonders of the locality whereon we stood, and call to our readers' recollection the legends about the shrine of Columba, and the history of the battles fought here by the Ostmen of old, and also refer to its occupation, in more modern times, by the Feypos, and Cusacks, and Verdons.

    For all that is known, or can, in all probability, be known,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Tara in Meath holds centuries of history within its ground. The old traditions say that Patrick came here and converted the Irish monarch and the whole court. But the event most remembered is what St. Ruadhan did. He cursed Temur, and after that curse, it was deserted as a royal seat. That desertion ended its time as the centre of Irish kingship. The ground still carries its marks. There are raths across the land, and wells and pillar-stones that consecrate the spot. The Lia Fail, the stone of destiny, is here too. It was supposed to have been removed to Scone, and from Scone to Westminster, but it is still, undoubtedly, at this place. St. Adamnan's name is also bound up here, fitting for a discussion of early ecclesiastical writings and the colonies that sprang from this Isle of Saints, even to far-famed Iona. In later years, other layers settled over the parish. The graves of the croppies lie here, and the lyrics of Tom Moore, and the memory of the monster meetings. From the opposite hill of Skreen, the ancient Acaill, you could look out over the broad lands and fair mansions, the castles, churches, and monasteries, with the Pleasant Boyne gliding smoothly by. That hill had its own stories: legends about the shrine of Columba, battles fought by the Ostmen of old, and occupation in more modern times by the Feypos, the Cusacks, and the Verdons.

22. The Dagda's Monument, Sidh-an-Brogha

    near Brú na Bóinne · monument · Meath

    The Dagda, styled Daghda-mor or 'Great Good Fire', was a king of the Tuatha De Danaans whose monument in the cemetery of the Boyne was called Sidh-an-Brogha, possibly one of the great sepulchral mounds still visible at Brugh na Boinne.

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    at the ford of Ros-na-Righ, in order to inter it in the cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne. The Dagda, whose monument is enumerated in this cemetery, was a king of the Tuatha De Danaans, named Eachaidh Ollathair, whose reign for eighty years, commenced (it is said in the annals) at the year of the world 3371. He was styled Daghda-mor, the "Great Good Fire," from his military ardour; and his monument in the cemetery of the Boyne was called Sidh-an-Brogha. May it not be one of those great sepulchral mounds now in sight, which we are about to describe? Several of the other personages whose monuments are enumerated as being in this great cemetery have been already mentioned.

    About a mile and a half below Slane, and extending along the northern bank of the river, we meet the great Irish cemetery to which we have just alluded. This consists chiefly of a number of sepulchral mounds, or barrows, varying in magnitude, and occupying a space of about a mile in breadth, north- Avard of the river's bank, and stretching from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne, over a distance of nearly three miles. In this sj^ace we find the remains of no less than seventeen sepulchral barrows, some of these — the smaller ones — situated in the green pasture lands, which form the immediate valley of the Boyne, while the three of greatest magnitude are placed on the summit of the ridge which bounds this valley upon the left bank, and a few others are to be found atMonk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill, towards Louth; making upwards of twenty in all, including the remains at Cloghalea, and the great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, and known in the Annals as the mound of the grave of the Wife of Gobhan. This latter, however, is on the right or southern bank.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 113

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Brú na Bóinne stands the Dagda's monument, called Sidh-an-Brogha. The Dagda was a king of the Tuatha De Danaans. His true name was Eachaidh Ollathair. The annals say his reign began in the year of the world 3371 and lasted 80 years. He was styled Daghda-mor, the Great Good Fire, from his military ardour. His monument in the cemetery of the Boyne bore the name Sidh-an-Brogha, and it may be one of those great sepulchral mounds still in sight today. The cemetery itself lies about a mile and a half below Slane, extending along the northern bank of the river. It holds no less than 17 sepulchral barrows, varying in size, stretching from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne over a distance of nearly 3 miles. Some of the smaller barrows sit in the green pasture lands of the Boyne valley. The three of greatest magnitude stand on the summit of the ridge bounding the valley upon the left bank. A few others are found at Monk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill towards Louth. Counting the remains at Cloghalea and the great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, there are upwards of 20 in all. That last one, known in the Annals as the mound of the grave of the Wife of Gobhan, lies on the right or southern bank. The Dagda's Sidh-an-Brogha may well be among the great mounds of this cemetery.

23. The four royal palaces of ancient Meath

    Hill of Ward, Tlachtgha · hill or hills · Meath

    Four royal palaces of great note existed in ancient Meath: Tara on the Boyne, Tailten on the Blackwater, Tlachtga on the Hill of Ward near Athboy, and Uisneach in Westmeath.

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    The ancient maniiscripts are very rich in the topographical descriptions of this district. It was the seat of Irish monarchy for some centuries after its erection into a province, and one of our oldest coins is that of Aedh, King of Meath. There were four royal palaces of great note and celeVjrity in this province in ancient times, at Tara on the Boyne, Tail ten on the Blackwater, Tlachtga on the Hill of Ward near Athboy, and Uisneach in Westraeath.

    Sylvester Giraldus Cambrensis thus describes this portion of the Pentarchy : "There arrived in Ireland five brethren that were valiant and martial gentlemen; to wit, Gandius, Genandius, Sagandus, otherwise named Gangandus, Rutheragos, or Rutheranus, and Slanius. These five, perceiving that the country was not sufl&ciently peopled, were agreed, as it were, to cast lots, and to share the whole realm between themselves.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    This hill is Tlachtga, the Hill of Ward, near Athboy. Ancient Meath held four royal palaces of great note: Tara on the Boyne, Tailten on the Blackwater, Tlachtga here, and Uisneach in Westmeath. The old manuscripts are rich in descriptions of this district. It was the seat of Irish monarchy for some centuries after it was erected into a province, and one of the oldest Irish coins is that of Aedh, King of Meath. Sylvester Giraldus Cambrensis wrote of this portion of the Pentarchy. He said five brethren arrived in Ireland, valiant and martial gentlemen: Gandius, Genandius, Sagandus, also called Gangandus, Rutheragos, also called Rutheranus, and Slanius. These five, seeing the country was not sufficiently peopled, agreed to cast lots and share the whole realm between themselves.

24. The great military rath at Donaghpatrick

    Donaghpatrick · townland · Meath

    A massive rath of the military class stands at Donaghpatrick, resembling the mound at Downpatrick, with a central circular mound and four traceable circumvallations, though it went unmarked on Ordnance maps due to tree cover.

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    Upon the left of the road, as we approach the church, stands, without exception, one of the very finest raths of the military class to be seen in Ireland. It is of immense size, but, its outline being now obscured by trees and much underwood, it escaped the notice of the Ordnance surveyors, and has not been marked on the map of this part of Meath. It much resembles that at Downpatrick, consisting of a central circular mound, rising gradually out of several circumvallations, or earthen embankments, four of which can still be traced ; the great ring fort at Dowth, and the King's Rath enclosing the Forradh at Tara, and Rath Dubh at Tailtean, extend over a greater space; but of its kind there is nothing to compare with this along the Boyne or BlackAvater.

    It is much to be regretted that earthen mounds of this description should be planted ; a graceful tree at top, or a few growing on the sides, add to their picturesqueness ; but covering them with trees and underwood quite obscures their form and conceals their purpose. May not this moat have been the celebrated Rath Airthir, the eastern fort, now Oristown ; or even the house which the good Conall erected for himself after he so hosj^itably gave his own to Patrick?

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 95

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Donaghpatrick stands one of the finest raths of the military class to be seen in Ireland. It is of immense size, but trees and underwood have obscured its outline, and it escaped the notice of the Ordnance surveyors, so it was never marked on the map of this part of Meath. It much resembles the rath at Downpatrick, consisting of a central circular mound rising gradually out of several circumvallations, or earthen embankments, four of which can still be traced. The great ring fort at Dowth, the King's Rath enclosing the Forradh at Tara, and Rath Dubh at Tailtean all extend over a greater space, but of its kind there is nothing to compare with this along the Boyne or the Blackwater. It is a pity that earthen mounds like this should be planted over. A graceful tree at the top, or a few growing on the sides, would add to their picturesqueness, but covering them with trees and underwood quite obscures their form and conceals their purpose. The writer even wondered whether this moat might have been the celebrated Rath Airthir, the eastern fort, now Oristown, or even the house the good Conall erected for himself after he so hospitably gave his own dwelling to Patrick.

25. The great tumulus at Clonard

    Clonard · town · Meath

    A large picturesque green moat rises near Clonard church on the Boyne's left bank, topped by an ash tree. The mound measures 433 feet round the base and 168 feet across its flat top, standing over fifty feet high, and has been disturbed by treasure-seekers.

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    This large tumulus, the great bulk of which is probably formed of small stones, but the surface of which is now a verdant greensward, rises in steps caused by the gradual slipping of the alluvial soil. In circumference it measures 433 feet round the base, and at the top, Avhich is flat and truncated, 168 feet. Its perpendicular height is upwards of fifty feet. Some excavations were made both at top and bottom upon its northern aspect, by treasure-seekers, some years ago.

    Circular mounds of this description are of two kinds, mili-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clonard, there is a great green tumulus near the church, rising over 50 feet high, 433 feet round its base and 168 feet across its flat top. It is probably built of small stones, now covered in grass, with steps formed by the gradual slipping of the soil. Some years ago, treasure-seekers dug into it from the top and bottom on its northern side.

26. The ruined church and bridge of Clady

    Clady · townland · Antrim

    About three-quarters of a mile below Bective bridge, on a tongue of land between a streamlet and the river, stand the ruins of Clady church and an ancient footbridge, along with newly discovered subterranean structures. The church retains a beautiful cinquefoiled window and a hollow stone piscina or lavatory.

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    Near the Navan road, upon the northern bank of the river, not far from the abbey, we find one of those early military raths, so common throughout Meath; and about three-quarters of a mile below Bective bridge, on the same side, upon a small tongue of land which runs out between a tributary streamlet and the river, some very interesting and hitherto almost unnoticed remains, both Pagan and Christian, claim our attention. These consist of the old church and bridge of Clady, and some subterranean structures lately discovered in the immediate vicinity. The church, which is now a complete ruin, was originally a parallelogram, with a projection at the south-eastern side — a sort of transept — and a bell-turret upon the western gable; but although Ave are able to trace the outline of this building throughout, the only portion of much interest spared by the hand of time is a very beautiful window, in the south chapel, the stone frame- work of which is still very perfect. It consists of two cinquefoiled arches, in the " early English" style, separated by a light shaft. The carvings on the round capitals are rich and tasteful. An aged elder-bush overshadowing and partly protruding through these lights, serves to heighten the etFect of the picture, while a patriarchal ash, of gigantic dimensions, spreads its rugged arms over the adjoining graveyard. That many such Avindows as that we have described must have existed in this church originally, may be learned from the quantity of fragments, exhibiting the same form of mouldings and carving, Avhich are scattered around, or partly sunk in the ground, as head-stones. A hollow stone, apparently an ancient lavatory or a piscina, is still remaining in the enclosure, on the northern side. Mi\ Bolton, in Avhose demesne

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Clady, the ruins of an old church and bridge stand on a small tongue of land running out between a tributary streamlet and the river. About three-quarters of a mile below Bective bridge, these remains, both Pagan and Christian, have gone almost unnoticed. The church is now a complete ruin. It was originally a parallelogram, with a projection at the south-eastern side, a sort of transept, and a bell-turret upon the western gable. The outline of the building can still be traced throughout, but the only portion of much interest spared by time is a very beautiful window in the south chapel. Its stone framework is still very perfect. It consists of two cinquefoiled arches in the early English style, separated by a light shaft. The carvings on the round capitals are rich and tasteful. An aged elder-bush overshadows and partly protrudes through these lights, heightening the effect, while a patriarchal ash of gigantic dimensions spreads its rugged arms over the adjoining graveyard. Many such windows must have existed in this church originally, judging from the quantity of fragments exhibiting the same form of mouldings and carving scattered around or partly sunk in the ground as head-stones. A hollow stone, apparently an ancient lavatory or a piscina, is still remaining in the enclosure on the northern side. Some subterranean structures were lately discovered in the immediate vicinity of the church and bridge.

27. Turlough More O'Conor builds Athlone castle and bridge, 1129

    Athlone · town · Westmeath · 1129

    Turlough More O'Conor, monarch of Ireland, built the castle and bridge of Athlone in the summer of 1129, which was remembered as 'the dry summer.'

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    churches, and early ecclesiastical buildings, centuries before the conquest; and we may well suppose that, with such a knowledge of architecture, the Irish chieftains and their architects and artisans would have erected castles of defence and security for life and property, against the inroads of the neighbouring tribes, during those centuries of civil war with which this country was distracted, as well as against the descents of the plundering Dane and fierce Northman, during the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries at least. But, besides these speculations, we have positive historic assurances of the use of lime cement in the ancient Irish palaces; and we have authentic records of castles after this fashion having been built, particularly by the O'Conors of Connaught, antecedent to the English invasion of Henry 11. The castles of Gal way, Dunlo (now Balinasloe), and Colooney, in Sligo, were built in 1125. Turlough More O' Conor, monarch of Ireland, built the castle and bridge of Athlone in the summer of 1 129, called the dry summer. The castle of Tuam, called '■'■ Castelhmi Alirijicum,''^ built by Roderic O'Conor, was also long prior to the date of the Invasion.* The castle of Cullintragh in Meath, the stronghold of O'Melaghlin, was demolished by Roderick, son of Turlovigh O'Conor, in 1 155, and in the same year O'Melaghlin in retaliation destroyed the fortress and bridge of Athlone. That such buildings bore no comparison in strength, skill, or extent to those erected by the English here, there can be also little doubt. One can easily account for the almost total obliteration of these remains, while the relics of ecclesiastical architecture, many of which were constructed without lime or mortar, still remain. With regard to the first, every circumstance combined to dilapidate them, and the great superiority of the fortresses and castellated mansions of the English, in a short time rendered the Irish strongholds useless ; while the most powerful of all feelings, — religious veneration, — a feeling common to the conquerors and the conquered, continued to preserve the latter, if not from desecration, at least from total annihilation; and the more distant from the theatre of war, and the scene of the early Anglo-Norman colonization, the more perfect have these sacred relics been preserved, and the longer have the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through Athlone, a town whose castle and bridge were built by Turlough More O'Conor, monarch of Ireland, in the summer of 1129, a summer long remembered as the dry summer. The O'Conors of Connaught built castles before the English invasion. The castles of Galway, Dunlo, now called Balinasloe, and Colooney in Sligo went up in 1125. Turlough More O'Conor added Athlone's castle and bridge four years later. Roderic O'Conor built the castle of Tuam, also long before the invasion. These were strongholds of defence and security, built against the inroads of neighbouring tribes during centuries of civil war, and against the descents of the plundering Dane and fierce Northman through the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries. The Irish chieftains and their architects had knowledge of architecture from churches and ecclesiastical buildings erected centuries before the conquest, and there are historic assurances of lime cement used in the ancient Irish palaces. Such buildings bore little comparison in strength, skill, or extent to those the English erected here. One can account for the almost total obliteration of these remains, while relics of ecclesiastical architecture, many built without lime or mortar, still stand. Every circumstance combined to dilapidate them, and the great superiority of English fortresses rendered the Irish strongholds useless in a short time. Religious veneration, a feeling common to conquerors and conquered, preserved the sacred relics if not from desecration, at least from total annihilation.

28. View from the hill of Slane

    Slane · townland · Meath

    The hill of Slane offers a notable view along with historical associations, including St. Patrick's arrival there and nearby ruins of the church and monastery.

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    Slane, view from the hill of, with its associations, 179, 180; St. Patrick's arrival at, 180 ; destruction of the cloictheach or round tower of, 181 ; ancient tomb, 182 ; ruins of thechmxh and monastery of, 188.

    Slane, bridge of, 171.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the hill of Slane, known for its wide view and its old associations. Saint Patrick is said to have arrived here, and nearby stood a round tower, since destroyed, an ancient tomb, and the ruins of a church and monastery.

29. Desecration of a Rath at Tara for Manure

    Tara · parish · Meath

    The author laments that one of the raths of Tara was removed the previous year by an inhabitant of Navan for manure, with a similar act of desecration threatened for another rath.

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    There were several ancient roads leading through and from the royal residence at Tara, but, Avithout entering into the general history and topography of the place, their description would be uninteresting. We regret to say that one of the raths of Tara was removed the year before last, by an inhabitant of Navan, for manure ; and we understand a similar act of desecration is meditated towards another during the present harvest. Surely the proprietor of the soil, if acquainted with

    * This opinion was likewise held by O'Donovan. See his valuable and voluminous letters on Tara, in the Ordnance Libraiy, which we have lately perused.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Tara holds the remains of a royal residence, with ancient roads leading through and from it. One of the raths here was removed the year before last by an inhabitant of Navan, for manure. And a similar act of desecration is threatened towards another rath during the present harvest. The author asks whether the proprietor of the soil, if acquainted with the matter, will allow it to continue.

30. Ancient Irish castles at Galway, Dunlo, and Colooney built in 1125

    Ballinasloe · town · Galway · 1125

    The castles of Galway, Dunlo (now Ballinasloe), and Colooney in Sligo were built in 1125 by the O'Conors of Connaught, prior to the English invasion, using lime cement construction.

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    churches, and early ecclesiastical buildings, centuries before the conquest; and we may well suppose that, with such a knowledge of architecture, the Irish chieftains and their architects and artisans would have erected castles of defence and security for life and property, against the inroads of the neighbouring tribes, during those centuries of civil war with which this country was distracted, as well as against the descents of the plundering Dane and fierce Northman, during the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries at least. But, besides these speculations, we have positive historic assurances of the use of lime cement in the ancient Irish palaces; and we have authentic records of castles after this fashion having been built, particularly by the O'Conors of Connaught, antecedent to the English invasion of Henry 11. The castles of Gal way, Dunlo (now Balinasloe), and Colooney, in Sligo, were built in 1125. Turlough More O' Conor, monarch of Ireland, built the castle and bridge of Athlone in the summer of 1 129, called the dry summer. The castle of Tuam, called '■'■ Castelhmi Alirijicum,''^ built by Roderic O'Conor, was also long prior to the date of the Invasion.* The castle of Cullintragh in Meath, the stronghold of O'Melaghlin, was demolished by Roderick, son of Turlovigh O'Conor, in 1 155, and in the same year O'Melaghlin in retaliation destroyed the fortress and bridge of Athlone. That such buildings bore no comparison in strength, skill, or extent to those erected by the English here, there can be also little doubt. One can easily account for the almost total obliteration of these remains, while the relics of ecclesiastical architecture, many of which were constructed without lime or mortar, still remain. With regard to the first, every circumstance combined to dilapidate them, and the great superiority of the fortresses and castellated mansions of the English, in a short time rendered the Irish strongholds useless ; while the most powerful of all feelings, — religious veneration, — a feeling common to the conquerors and the conquered, continued to preserve the latter, if not from desecration, at least from total annihilation; and the more distant from the theatre of war, and the scene of the early Anglo-Norman colonization, the more perfect have these sacred relics been preserved, and the longer have the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    Ballinasloe was once called Dunlo, and a castle was built here in 1125. The O'Conors of Connaught built it, along with castles at Galway and Colooney in Sligo, before the English invasion. The record says these castles used lime cement, the same material used in ancient Irish palaces. The Irish chieftains had architects and artisans who knew architecture from churches and ecclesiastical buildings built centuries before the conquest. They built castles for defence and security against the inroads of neighbouring tribes during centuries of civil war, and against the descents of the plundering Dane and fierce Northman during the ninth, tenth, and eleventh centuries. Turlough More O'Conor, monarch of Ireland, built the castle and bridge of Athlone in the dry summer. Roderic O'Conor built the castle of Tuam, called by its Latin name, also long before the invasion. Roderick, son of Turlough O'Conor, demolished the castle of Cullintragh in Meath, the stronghold of O'Melaghlin, and in the same year O'Melaghlin destroyed the fortress and bridge of Athlone in retaliation. The record notes these Irish buildings bore no comparison in strength, skill, or extent to those erected by the English here. Nearly everything has been obliterated, while relics of ecclesiastical architecture, many built without lime or mortar, still remain. Every circumstance combined to dilapidate the castles, and the superior fortresses of the English rendered the Irish strongholds useless. But religious veneration, a feeling common to conquerors and conquered, preserved the sacred relics from total annihilation. The further from the theatre of war and early Anglo-Norman colonization, the more perfect they have been kept.

31. Anglo-Norman castles guarding the Boyne fords

    Athlumney · townland · Meath · 1170–1603

    Baronial halls and proud castles of the Pale were built along the Boyne at Carbery, Trim, Athlumney, Dunmoe, and Castle-Dexter, commanding every ford and pass, marking the extended sway of Anglo-Norman families from the invasion to the age of Elizabeth.

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    Tara, with its Lia Fail, or oracular stone, and its grassy mounds, stands alone, the crowning place of its kings, the forum of the sages, and the banqueting hall of the nobles of Erin, at least eighteen centuries ago. Then follow the early Christian buildings, the oratories and small missionary churches, sculptured crosses, carved fonts, and round towers, as at Monasteroris, Clonard, Donaghmore, and St. Eark, till such primitive buildings rose into the more stately edifices, churches, and monasteries of Slane, Trim, Bective, and Drogheda. The baronial halls of the Anglo-Normans and proud castles of the Pale stretching along its banks, and commanding every ford and pass, — as at Carbery, Trim, Athlumny, Dunmoe, and Castle- Dexter, — mark another era, and tell of the extended sway of the De Lacys, Husseys, Berminghams, Plunkets, Cusacks, Barnwells, Flemings, Prestons, Petits, Tuites, D'Arcys, and other English chieftains, from the time of the invasion to the age of Elizabeth. Although we do not find

    * For a description of the Firbolys and Tuatha De Danaans see the etlmological inquiry at the end of tliis voUmic, after the account of Dowth.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Athlumney, the Anglo-Normans built proud castles of the Pale along the banks of the Boyne, commanding every ford and pass. They stood at Carbery, Trim, Athlumney, Dunmoe, and Castle-Dexter, marking another era. These strongholds tell of the extended sway of families like the De Lacys, Husseys, Berminghams, Plunkets, Cusacks, Barnwells, Flemings, Prestons, Petits, Tuites, and D'Arcys, along with other English chieftains. Their hold ran from the time of the invasion in 1170 to the age of Elizabeth, closing around 1603.

32. Bective's carved abbot figure and fleur-de-lis shield

    Bective Abbey · monument · Meath

    On the western pilaster of the cloister arcade at Bective is found a carved figure of an abbot and a shield with three fleur-de-lis, thought to be the arms of the prelate buried beneath, since ecclesiastics of old placed their most venerated dead under these arcades.

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    we find a figure, cut in relief, of an abbot, and above it a shield enclosing three fleur-de-lis, probably the arms of the prelate interred beneath, for •we know that un- ^i;;;;;!-^--:^^^ derneath these arcades the ecclesiastics of olden time were wont to place their most venerated dead.

    The great tower at the entrance above the porch is still very perfect, and by its loop-holes and battlements shows that the inmates were, occasionally at least, entitled to be considered a part of the church militant. It has been said that a portion of this abbey was erected prior to the date of the English invasion, and that Grecian architects were employed in its construction, but uj^on what authority we have not been able to discover.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Bective Abbey holds, on the western pilaster of its cloister arcade, a figure cut in relief of an abbot, and above it a shield enclosing three fleur-de-lis. These are probably the arms of the prelate interred beneath. Ecclesiastics of olden time were wont to place their most venerated dead underneath these arcades. The great tower at the entrance above the porch is still very perfect, and by its loop-holes and battlements shows that the inmates were, occasionally at least, entitled to be considered a part of the church militant. It has been said that a portion of this abbey was erected prior to the date of the English invasion, and that Grecian architects were employed in its construction, but upon what authority we have not been able to discover.

33. Bermingham family builds Carbury Castle

    Carbury · townland · Kildare

    Carbury Castle was originally built by the Bermingham family, descendants of Pierce De Bermingham, an early English settler in Ireland.

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    The castle of Carbury was originally built by the family of Bermingham, the descendants of Pierce De Bermingham, one of the early English settlers in Ireland, of whom some account is given a little farther on, in the description of Monasteroris. It suffered greatly at the time of the civil wars in Ireland, particularly during the fifteenth century, and was constantly the scene of strife in those forays which took place between the English barons within the Pale and the western Irish chieftains. In 1447 " Castle Carbury was re-edified by the lord ff'urnival" (Furnival), In 1466 Meath Avas the seat of war, and in one of the skirmishes between Teige O' Conor and the Earl of Desmond, the latter was taken prisoner and conveyed

    * O'Dugan died in LS72, and O'Heerin in 1420. See also the Abbe Mac Geoghegan's Account of tlie Rebellion of Carbre, Ilistoiy of Ireland, vol. i. p. 200.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stands Carbury Castle. It was originally built by the Bermingham family, the descendants of Pierce De Bermingham, one of the early English settlers in Ireland. The castle suffered greatly during the civil wars in Ireland, particularly through the fifteenth century, and was constantly the scene of strife in the forays between the English barons within the Pale and the western Irish chieftains. In 1447, Castle Carbury was re-edified by the lord Furnival. Then in 1466, Meath was the seat of war, and in one of the skirmishes between Teige O'Conor and the Earl of Desmond, the latter was taken prisoner and conveyed away.

34. Caillimotte's burial near Coddington's demesne

    Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690

    Caillimotte, mortally wounded at the Boyne crossing, is buried near the gate of Mr. Coddington's demesne.

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    Caillimotte is buried near the gate of Mr. Coddington's demesne. S

    258 now THE IRISH AT DONORE BEHAVED,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, near the gate of Mr. Coddington's demesne, Caillimotte is buried. He was mortally wounded at the Boyne crossing in 1690.

35. Complete obliteration of Clonard's ecclesiastical remains

    Clonard · town · Meath

    By the time of writing, not even a trace of the once-magnificent Clonard buildings remained; only three stones could be found of the vast monastic complex, with the modern church, graveyard and village now standing on the ancient site.

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    We have thus described Clonard from whatever research we have been able to devote to the subject ; but of all the magnificence of all these buildings not even a trace now remains. It is with difficulty their former situation can be made out. The Christians have, after numberless burnings, sackings, and plunderings, for iipwards of a thousand years, at last succeeded in completely obliterating every vestige of these Christian edifices, the tombs and temples of their ancestors, while some pagan remains, erected centuries before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, attract our attention from the Boyne's banks, and point out the locality sought for. Here, upon the Trim road, the village of Clonard stands, and in connexion Avith it the modern church and graveyard. This latter, and the fields adjoining, were the site of the ecclesiastical remains, but it would appear from the ancient references that the monastical and scholastic buildings extended down towards the western bank of the river for some distance. Three stones are all that can at present be discovered of the vast range

    * Archdall's Monasticon; also Gough's additions to Camden, and Sf ward's Topography, &c., &c.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 44

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Clonard, in Meath. It is hard to take in what is gone. Of all the magnificence of the buildings that once stood here, not even a trace now remains. It is with difficulty their former situation can be made out. The Christians, after numberless burnings, sackings, and plunderings, for upwards of a thousand years, at last succeeded in completely obliterating every vestige of these Christian edifices, the tombs and temples of their ancestors. Some pagan remains, erected centuries before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, still attract attention from the Boyne's banks and point out the locality sought for. The village of Clonard stands on the Trim road, and in connection with it the modern church and graveyard. The graveyard and the fields adjoining were the site of the ecclesiastical remains. The monastical and scholastic buildings once extended down towards the western bank of the river for some distance. Three stones are all that can at present be discovered of the vast range.

36. Dangan, seat of the Wellesley family, now dilapidated

    Dangan · townland · Meath

    Dangan, one of the seats of the Wellesley family and where the Duke of Wellington spent many of his boyish days, lies about five miles from Trim but is now completely dilapidated and has passed out of the family's hands.

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    Dangan, one of the seats of the Wellesley family, and where the Duke spent many of his boyish days, is distant about five miles from Trim, bvit is now completely dilapidated, and has long since passed out of the hands of the Wellesley family.

    A locality, however, of still greater interest than that of Dangan, presents itself within two miles of Trim, and one which, like the former (Avith Avhich it is in a certain degree connected), has been permitted to fall into utter ruin and neglect. We allude to Laracor, the early residence of Dean Swift.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 60

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dangan stood one of the seats of the Wellesley family, where the Duke of Wellington spent many of his boyish days. It lay about five miles from Trim. Today it is completely dilapidated, and has long since passed out of the family's hands.

37. Dean Butler's preservation of Trim's antiquities

    Trim · town · Meath

    The excellent state of preservation of Trim's ruins is credited to Dean Butler, the vicar, who collected information, coins, and published notices on the castle and church of Trim.

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    But we rave of scenes that we have admired, instead of conducting our readers through the town of Trim, and over these ruins in detail. Well, then, — of all the modern towns in Ireland, of our acquaintance, we know few to vie with Trim in dirt, laziness, and apathy ; and of all the ruins in the country, we cannot call to mind any more carefully kept or better preserved from decay than these. This preservation of the ruins of Trim is chiefly to be ascribed to the energy and zeal of Dean Butler, the vicar, who has taken immense pains not only to collect a great body of information on the subject of Trim, but also to bring to light and preserve many of its antiquities. The Dean possesses a fine collection of coins, found among these ruins, and has printed and published some notices of the castle and church at Trim, collected from various authorities. These little publications, which, we confess, we would rather have seen in a less dry and more popular form, contain, we believe, the greatest amount of information, in the fewest possible words, of any works we ever read. They are chiefly composed of annals, collected from various ancient records, and arranged in a chronological form, extending — the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Trim, you are among ruins kept better than almost any in Ireland. The town itself drew sharp words from one writer, who called it unmatched in dirt, laziness, and apathy. Yet the ruins here, he said, he could not recall any more carefully kept or better preserved from decay. That preservation is chiefly owing to Dean Butler, the vicar, who took immense pains to gather a great body of information on Trim and to bring to light many of its antiquities. He possessed a fine collection of coins found among the ruins, and he printed and published notices of the castle and church at Trim, drawn from various authorities. Those little publications, the writer admitted, he would rather have seen in a less dry and more popular form, but they held, he believed, the greatest amount of information in the fewest possible words of any works he had ever read. They were chiefly annals, collected from ancient records and arranged in chronological form.

38. Death of St. Kieran the Pious at Castlekieran, 770 AD

    Castlekeeran · townland · Meath · 770

    St. Kieran, called the Pious, died at this site (originally named Bealach-duin) on 14th June 770, a date which disproves the legend of Columb's cross-theft due to anachronism; the place was later called Disert Chiarain, giving its name to the barony and parish of Castle-Kieran.

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    The original name of this place, to which frequent references occur in the Annals, was Bealach-duin, the " Eoad or Pass of the Fort," and from the numerous raths in its vicinity, and all along the rivei", it must have been, like most other Irish names of places, a very significant appellation. Here we read that Ciaran, or Kieran, the Pious, died on the 14th of June, 770 ; so that, notwithstanding the force of tradition — to which, by the way, some of St. Columb's successors still attach so much value — authentic history enables us, from the positive anachronism of the legend, to acquit the great churchfounder of having stolen the crosses. The spot thus consecrated by St. Kieran was afterwards called Disert Chiarain, from which the present barony and parish of Castle-Kieran takes its name.*

    The church, no portion of which can be regarded as the original structure founded by St. Kieran, is a small oblong building, erected apparently upon low arches, of a late period of Gothic architecture, and quite devoid of mouldings or or-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere near here, the place once called Bealach-duin, the road or pass of the fort, appears in the Annals. The name suited it, for there are numerous raths in the vicinity and all along the river. Here Kieran, called the Pious, died on the 14th of June, 770. There is a tradition, still valued by some of St. Columb's successors, that Columb stole the crosses. But the date of Kieran's death exposes a positive anachronism in that legend, and authentic history lets us acquit the great church founder of the theft. The spot consecrated by St. Kieran was afterwards called Disert Chiarain, and from that name the present barony and parish of Castle-Kieran take theirs. A church stands here, a small oblong building raised apparently on low arches, of a late period of Gothic architecture, with no mouldings or ornament. No part of it can be regarded as the original structure founded by St. Kieran.

39. Dimensions of the Great Fort, Rath Dubh

    Teltown · townland · Meath

    The Great Fort or Rath Dubh at Teltown measures 321 paces around its outer wall, with openings roughly north and south and embankments fifteen to twenty feet high.

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    where this joins the modern main road there is another hollow, still containing some water, pointed out as the site of one of the artificial lakes. The fair of Tailtean was continued up to about eighty years ago, and some vestiges of the sports, particularly the fighting, existed within the memory of man at a Patron which used to be held on the opposite side of the river.* The Great Fort, or Rath D/ibh, measures round the outer Avail of circumvallation 321 paces, having openings in it nearly due north and south. The height of the surrounding earthen embankment varies from fifteen to twenty feet. Standing in the centre of this great fort we again obtain one of those refreshing views which we have so often attempted to describe when following the course of the Boyne. Looking up towards the north-west, the hill of Lloyd presents a grand and imposing object. Below it the eye rests upon the steeple and round tower of Kells, appearing to rise out of the woods of Headford ; while in the extreme distance the round hills of Cavan bound the horizon. Immediately around us is a country of immense fertility and with a gently undulating surface, divided into fields of great size, — that in which Ave stand contains nearly 1 00 acres, — bordered by rows of well-grown timber, rising out of tall quickset hedges. There is scarcely a cottage, or even a farmer's house, to be seen. All seems one vast pasture farm, through Avhich the Sele Avinds in pleasing curves, presenting glimpses of its dark blue Avaters among the floAvery meadoAvs Avhich stretch along its brink. The wooded hill of Foughan rises vip beyond it to the south-Avest, and following its track by the little ruined church of Teltown, by the heights of Donaghpatrick, oA'er the Avoods of Liscarton, above Avhich the old castle in that locality topples, and by the plantations of Rathaldron, the eye rests upon the hills of Skreen and Tara in the extreme north-eastern distance.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 93

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere near here is the Great Fort, or Rath Dubh. It measures 321 paces around its outer wall, with openings nearly due north and south. The earthen embankment surrounding it varies from 15 to 20 feet in height. The field it stands in contains nearly 100 acres. From the centre of this fort the land opens out in every direction. To the north-west the hill of Lloyd rises grand and imposing. Below it, the steeple and round tower of Kells appear to rise out of the woods of Headford. Farther off, the round hills of Cavan bound the horizon. All around is fertile, gently undulating country, divided into large fields bordered by well-grown timber and tall quickset hedges. There is scarcely a cottage or a farmer's house to be seen. The river Sele winds through in pleasing curves, its dark blue waters glimpsed among the flowery meadows along its banks. The wooded hill of Foughan rises to the south-west. Following the eye onward, past the little ruined church of Teltown, past the heights of Donaghpatrick, over the woods of Liscarton where an old castle stands, and past the plantations of Rathaldron, the hills of Skreen and Tara mark the extreme north-eastern distance. The fair of Tailtean continued up to about 80 years ago, and some vestiges of the sports, particularly the fighting, survived within living memory at a Patron held on the opposite side of the river. A hollow nearby, still holding some water, is pointed out as the site of one of the artificial lakes.

40. Gothic church windows at Liscarton

    Liscarton · street · Meath

    The ruined Gothic church beside Liscarton Castle is noted for the extreme beauty of its eastern and western windows with exquisite decorated tracery and carved human heads on the drip stones.

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    This castle appears to have been, from its strength and extent, of great importance. We know little of its history, except that in 1633 it belonged to Sir William Talbot, Bart., who held it of the king in capite per servitium militare. It originally consisted of two large quadrangular towers, connected together by a large hall, the roof of which no longer exists, but its position is shown by marks in the wall at either end. The thatched, modern-looking building shown in the accompanying cut is a portion of one of the towers much reduced in height. The church is remarkable for the extreme beauty of its eastern and western windows, each of which consists of one great light, divided by a shaft branching off on a level with the spring of the arch into two members, which join the archhead about the centre of the curve. An exquisite variety of

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 96

    As the companion tells it

    The ruined Gothic church beside Liscarton Castle is remarkable for the extreme beauty of its eastern and western windows. Each window consists of one great light, divided by a shaft branching off at the spring of the arch into two members, which join the archhead about the centre of the curve. The tracery is exquisite, and carved human heads adorn the drip stones. The castle appears to have been of great importance from its strength and extent, though little is known of its history. In 1633 it belonged to Sir William Talbot, who held it of the king in capite per servitium militare. It originally consisted of two large quadrangular towers, connected together by a large hall. The hall roof no longer exists, but its position is shown by marks in the wall at either end.

41. Great cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne: Knowth, New Grange, Dowth

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    The passage names Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth together as the 'great cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne,' a group of ancient monuments to be visited in succession near Slane, reachable by boat as far as New Grange.

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    To devote a day to the examination of the great cemetery of Brugh-na- Boinne, the tourist should proceed by rail to Slane, hire a car there, and visit in succession Knowth, New Grange, Dowth, and Netterville, and then, crossing over to Jlonknewtown, get back to Drogheda in time for the evening train. Fraser's admirable "Hand-Book for Travellers in Ireland," and the Monthly Time Bills of the railways, will be found of great service.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies what was called the great cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne. Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth were named together as its monuments, to be visited in succession. A traveller was advised to proceed by rail to Slane, hire a car, and visit each of them, along with Netterville, then cross over to get back to Drogheda for the evening train.

42. Maiden Tower conjectured to date from Elizabeth's reign

    Maiden Tower · man-made feature · Meath · 1558–1603

    It has been conjectured that the Maiden Tower was erected during the reign of Elizabeth I and took its name from the Maiden Queen, rather than from the tragic legend of the betrothed maiden.

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    turned successful, he should hoist a milk-white banner; but if the contrary, a red flag should float from his mast-head. The preconcerted signal was forgotten, and the knight, seeing the tower, — which his true love had erected during his absence to watch his return, — and mistaking it for the watch-tower of an enemy and an invader, instantly displayed the blood-red flag, whereon the disconsolate maiden precipitated herself from the top of the tower, and was dashed to atoms. Not many years ago a poor half-witted female recluse took up her abode on the top of the tower, and was, like the hermits of old, supplied with every necessary by the surrounding peasantry. It has been conjectured that the tower was erected during the reign of Elizabeth, and took its name from the Maiden Queen.

    INDEX.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 176

    As the companion tells it

    Maiden Tower stands in Meath. A legend tells of a knight whose true love built the tower during his absence to watch for his return. They had agreed on a signal: a milk-white banner if he succeeded, a red flag if he failed. The signal was forgotten. The knight, seeing the tower, mistook it for the watch-tower of an enemy and an invader, and displayed the blood-red flag. The disconsolate maiden threw herself from the top and was dashed to atoms. Not many years ago a poor half-witted female recluse took up her abode on the top of the tower, and was, like the hermits of old, supplied with every necessary by the surrounding peasantry. It has been conjectured that the tower was erected during the reign of Elizabeth, and took its name from the Maiden Queen.

43. Old church and friary at Killyon founded by St Liadhan

    Killyon · townland · Meath

    In the demesne of Killyon on the Boyne's northern bank, the ruins of an old church and friary originally founded by St Liadhan, mother of St Kieran of Saighir, remain; she is still patroness of the parish, and the Dominican monks of Trim later retired here, giving it the name Friary of Donore.

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    In tl.3 demesne of Killyon, on the northern bank of the river, about midway between Clonard and Trim, are the ruins of an old church and friary, originally founded by St. Liadhan or Liedania, the mother of St. Kieran of Saighir, who is still the patroness of this parish. From some of the Inquisitions and Burke's Ilihernia Dominicana we learn that the Dominican monks of Trim retired to the Friary of Donore, as it is

    THE CASTLE OF DONORE.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Killyon, on the northern bank of the river, are the ruins of an old church and friary. It was originally founded by Saint Liadhan, the mother of Saint Kieran of Saighir, and she is still the patroness of this parish. The Dominican monks of Trim later retired here, and the place became known as the Friary of Donore.

44. Richard Butler, historian of Trim

    Trim · town · Meath

    The Very Reverend Richard Butler, Dean of Clonmacnoise, had a long residence at Trim and became its historian, gaining an intimate acquaintance with the ancient history of County Meath. His knowledge made him uniquely suited to advise on a work treating of the Boyne.

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    The Very Reverend Richard Butler, Dean of Clonmacnoise, has also placed me, as regards this work, under many obligations. His long residence at Trim, of which he has become the historian, and his intimate acquaintance with the ancient history of the county of Meath, render him better fitted for the task of a critic upon a book treating of the Boyne, than any other living antiquary ; and in the same generous manner as Mr. O'Donovan, he has, as he always does, assisted those who require the aid of his matured judgment and extensive reading.

    I have to express my obligations to Mr. George Smith, the enterprising publisher of so many works connected with the history of Ireland, for permission to examine and extract from the early portion of that part of the Annals of the Four Masters, now in course of translation by Mr. O'Donovan. With the Editor's permission, he placed the unpublished sheets of that great work at my disposal.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Trim, you are in a town whose historian was the Reverend Richard Butler, Dean of Clonmacnoise. His long residence here gave him an intimate acquaintance with the ancient history of County Meath, and he became the historian of Trim itself. When a book treating of the Boyne was being written, Butler's knowledge made him better fitted to act as its critic than any other living antiquary. He assisted those who needed the aid of his matured judgment and extensive reading, and he did so generously, in the same manner as Mr O'Donovan. The author placed on record that Butler had placed him under many obligations for his help with the work.

45. Seventeen Sepulchral Barrows Between Knowth and Netterville

    Knowth · townland · Meath

    A stretch of nearly three miles from Knowth to Netterville demesne contains the remains of no less than seventeen sepulchral barrows of varying size, with the three greatest mounds placed on the ridge above the Boyne valley.

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    About a mile and a half below Slane, and extending along the northern bank of the river, we meet the great Irish cemetery to which we have just alluded. This consists chiefly of a number of sepulchral mounds, or barrows, varying in magnitude, and occupying a space of about a mile in breadth, north- Avard of the river's bank, and stretching from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne, over a distance of nearly three miles. In this sj^ace we find the remains of no less than seventeen sepulchral barrows, some of these — the smaller ones — situated in the green pasture lands, which form the immediate valley of the Boyne, while the three of greatest magnitude are placed on the summit of the ridge which bounds this valley upon the left bank, and a few others are to be found atMonk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill, towards Louth; making upwards of twenty in all, including the remains at Cloghalea, and the great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, and known in the Annals as the mound of the grave of the Wife of Gobhan. This latter, however, is on the right or southern bank.

    The three great mounds of Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth, principally demand attention, not only on account of their magnitude, but because one of them has remained open for some years, and a third has been lately examined. Each of these is situated within view of the other, and at about a mile distant, and consists, at first sight, of a great natural hill, rising abruptly from the surrounding siirface ; and this idea is rather strengthened by the circumstance of one of these having become covered with wood, and another having until lately borne on its summit a modern stone building. An eye

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 113

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies one of the great cemeteries of ancient Ireland. Along the northern bank of the Boyne, stretching from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne over a distance of nearly three miles, the remains of no fewer than seventeen sepulchral barrows have been found. The smaller ones sit in the green pasture lands of the valley, while the three of greatest magnitude stand on the summit of the ridge bounding the valley on the left bank. A few others are found at Monk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill towards Louth, bringing the total upwards of twenty, including remains at Cloghalea and the great moat beneath the fortress of Drogheda, known in the Annals as the mound of the grave of the Wife of Gobhan, though that one sits on the southern bank. The three great mounds of Knowth, New Grange, and Dowth demand the most attention, each within view of the other and about a mile apart. Each rises abruptly from the surrounding surface, so much so that they might be mistaken for natural hills. One has remained open for some years, and another was lately examined. One became covered with wood, and another bore a modern stone building on its summit until recently.

46. Skull excavated beneath the Round Tower at Drumbo

    Drumbo · townland · Down

    An excavation beneath the Round Tower at Drumbo, County Down, uncovered a skeleton at full length imbedded in clay; the author argued the skull's comparatively modern appearance suggested the tower was not as ancient as usually supposed.

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    to another locality in -which bones of the ancient Irish people are said to have been found. We allude to the Round Towers, particularly to that lately excavated at Drunibo, in the county of Down, beneath which some bones were found. Interest was excited by this discovery, from the supposition that these human remains would offer some clue as to the origin and uses of these monuments, or assist in determining the probable era of their erection. The enchanted palace of the Irish round tower has, however, been opened for our inspection, and therefore all theorizing on the subject is at an end. We were presented at the time of the examination with a very beautiful cast of the skull found -within the round tower of Drunibo ; and the moment Ave saw it we felt convinced that, if it was of a contemporaneous age with the structure beneath which it was found, then the Irish round tower was not the ancient building it is usually supposed to be ; for, compared with the otlier Irish heads, that skull is of comparatively modern date. Now, nearly all the round towers are in connexion with ancient burial-places, and that one in particular is so, and one need only dig around and without it to find many similar remains. We hear that the skeleton was found at full length, imbedded in the clay, within the ancient structure. Now, if the round tower was erected as a monument over the person whose skeleton Avas found within, the body certainly would not have been buried thus in the simple earth, without a vault or stone chamber, such as the enlightened architects who built the tower would be thoroughly competent to construct. Moreover, we do not believe that a skull thus placed loosely in the earth, without any surrounding chamber, would have remained thus perfect for the length of time Avhich even the most modernizing antiquaries assign as the date of the round tower.

    Here, however, is a drawing of a Danish head of undoubted authenticity, for Avhich we are much indebted to the Rev. Dr.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here at Drumbo, a round tower was excavated, and bones were found beneath it. There was excitement at the time, because people thought these human remains might offer some clue as to the origin and uses of round towers, or help determine when they were built. The author was given a cast of the skull found within the round tower of Drumbo, and the moment they saw it, they felt convinced that if it was of the same age as the structure beneath which it was found, then the Irish round tower was not the ancient building it is usually supposed to be. Compared with other Irish heads, that skull is of comparatively modern date. Nearly all the round towers are connected with ancient burial places, and this one in particular is so. You need only dig around and outside it to find many similar remains. The skeleton was found at full length, imbedded in the clay, within the ancient structure. If the round tower was erected as a monument over the person whose skeleton was found within, the body certainly would not have been buried thus in the simple earth, without a vault or stone chamber, such as the enlightened architects who built the tower would be thoroughly competent to construct. Moreover, the author did not believe that a skull placed loosely in the earth, without any surrounding chamber, would have remained thus perfect for the length of time which even the most modernising antiquaries assign as the date of the round tower.

47. Squalor surrounding the Magdalen Steeple site

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    The area around Magdalen Steeple in Drogheda is surrounded by miserable hovels inhabited by the poorest people, making it a disgrace requiring sanitary intervention. The author calls for the Corporation of Drogheda to clean up the city.

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    Magdalen Steeple, figured below, the only remnant of the church of the Dominican friary which once stood here. It occupies an elevated position upon the northern side of the city, near Sunday's Gate, and is immediately adjoining a series of arches pointed out as the remains of the town wall. It is now surrounded by the most miserable hovels, inhabited by the most wretched portion of the population, and not only is the adjoining locality a disgrace to the town, but the very site itself stands more in need of the efforts of a Sanitary Commission than any other place that we know of in the British dominions.

    As soon as the Corporation of Drogheda cleanse their city, we hope to conduct the Boyne tourists round some of its other memorable ruins.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 174

    As the companion tells it

    Drogheda holds a relic called the Magdalen Steeple, the only remnant of the church of the Dominican friary that once stood here. It sits on raised ground on the northern side of the city, near Sunday's Gate, beside a series of arches pointed out as the remains of the town wall. The steeple is now surrounded by the most miserable hovels, inhabited by the most wretched portion of the population. The author writes that the adjoining locality is a disgrace to the town, and that the very site itself stands more in need of the efforts of a Sanitary Commission than any other place known in the British dominions. As soon as the Corporation of Drogheda cleanse their city, the author hopes to conduct the Boyne tourists round some of its other memorable ruins.

48. St. Bernard's Well and Giants' Grave near Dowth

    Dowth · townland · Meath

    A few hundred yards south-east of the moat of Dowth stand St. Bernard's Well, remains of a structure called a Giants' Grave, the old castle of Dowth, and an adjoining church with early Irish sculpture in its southern wall similar in design to the cross of St. Adamnan.

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    A few hvmdred yards to the southeast of the moat of Dowth we have St. Bernard's Well; some remains of one of those structures denominated Giants' Graves; the old castle of Dowth; and the interesting little church adjoining, which contains, built up in its southern wall, a specimen of very early Irish sculpture, concerning which there is at present little known ; it is similar in design to the figure on the cross of St.

    Adamnan, to which we alluded at page 123. Immediately adjoining are the ramparts, baths, walks, and ponds, made by the late eccentric Lord Netterville, together with some of the finest mulberry trees in this part of the kingdom.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 127

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Dowth, you have St. Bernard's Well, the remains of a Giants' Grave, the old castle of Dowth, and a small church adjoining it. Built into the southern wall of that church is a piece of early Irish sculpture, similar in design to the figure on the cross of St. Adamnan. There is little known about it. Right beside all this are ramparts, baths, walks, and ponds made by the late eccentric Lord Netterville, along with some of the finest mulberry trees in this part of the kingdom.

49. The ancient stone footbridge at Clady

    Clady · townland · Antrim

    An ancient stone footbridge, about thirty yards long and supported by two arches of different shapes, crosses the stream near Clady church; it is considered possibly the most ancient stone bridge existing in Ireland.

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    The adjoining stream is crossed by an ancient stone footbridge, about thirty yards in length, and supported by tAvo arches of different shapes. It is about five feet in breadth, and does not appear to have ever had a parapet. It is one of the very few foot-bridges which we have ever seen or heard of in this country; and if it is coeval with the church to which it leads, and which in all probability it is, it cannot be denied that this is the most ancient stone bridge now existing in Ireland.

    I

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Clady there is an ancient stone footbridge. It crosses the adjoining stream, about thirty yards in length, and it is held up by two arches of different shapes. It is about five feet broad and never seems to have had a parapet. It is one of the very few foot-bridges seen or heard of in this country. It leads to the church, and if it is as old as that church, which in all probability it is, then this is the most ancient stone bridge now existing in Ireland.

50. The Black Castle of the Naul

    Naul · townland · Meath

    The Black Castle of the Naul is described as one of the most picturesque ruins in Ireland, standing on a grey perpendicular rock above a romantic dell through which the Delvin river flows, dividing Meath and Dublin.

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    A bluff hill rises behind the village towards the south-east; but in all likelihood the retreating Irish army, in whose track we have wandered thus far from the " pleasant Boyne," followed the lie of the valley which winds round its base towards the south-east, leading to the Naul. The road thither passes" over a portion of the high table land of the commons of Belle wstown, so famed in racing annals, and from which a most noble prospect may be obtained. The little hamlet of the Naul is charmingly situated in a deep gorge or defile, through which flows the water of the Delvan, a streamlet which divides the counties of Meath and Dublin. From Duleek to this point the road stretches along the sides of the succession of hills which lead up to Bellewstown, and commands all the way a view of one of the richest vales in Leinster, in the highest state of cultivation, and consequently teeming with fertility. The Black Castle of the Naul, one of the most picturesque ruins of its kind in Ireland, stands on a grey perpendicular rock that rises abruptly out of a most romantic little dell, through which the rivulet meanders with the most pleasing affect imaginable.

    This, and other objects of beauty or antiquarian interest in the vicinity, would claim our attention, but that we have already (for the reason assigned) extended our researches beyond their prescribed limits.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 160

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the Black Castle of the Naul. A writer who travelled this way called it one of the most picturesque ruins of its kind in Ireland. It stands on a grey perpendicular rock that rises abruptly out of a most romantic little dell, and through that dell the Delvan river meanders, dividing the counties of Meath and Dublin. The writer had been following what he believed was the track of a retreating Irish army, wandering from the pleasant Boyne towards the Naul. The road passed over a portion of the high table land of the commons of Bellewstown, famed in racing annals, and from there a most noble prospect could be obtained. From Duleek to this point the road stretched along the sides of a succession of hills leading up to Bellewstown, commanding all the way a view of one of the richest vales in Leinster, in the highest state of cultivation, teeming with fertility. The little hamlet of the Naul sits in a deep gorge or defile, through which the water of the Delvan flows. The writer noted other objects of beauty and antiquarian interest in the vicinity, but said he had already extended his researches beyond their prescribed limits.

51. The dark cave or crypt of Slane among Ireland's Triads

    Slane · townland · Meath

    An ancient manuscript called the Irish Triads lists the three darkest caves of Ireland, including Uaimh Slaine, the cave or crypt of Slane, alongside the cave of Croghan and the cave of Dunmore near Kilkenny.

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    * Where these graves are has not yet been determined ; perhaps they formed part of the great neighbouring cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne, for in an ancient MS. in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, called " Irish Triads," enumerating three of each of the most remarkable objects in Erin, — as the three mountains, the three cataracts, the three plains, and the three rivers, — it is stated that the three darkest caves of Ireland are Uaimh Cruachna, i. e. the cave of Croghan ; Uaimh Slaine, i. e. the cave or crypt of Slane ; and Dearc Feama, i. e. the cave of Dunmore, near Kilkenny. See also the Annals of the Four Masters, A. D. 928, and the Dublin Penny .Journal, vol. i. p. 73. Can New Grange be the cave of Slane ?

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 109

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies a cave that old Irish writers counted among the darkest in the country. An ancient manuscript in Trinity College Dublin, called the Irish Triads, sets down three of the most remarkable things of each kind in Ireland — its mountains, its cataracts, its plains, its rivers. Among them it names the three darkest caves: the cave of Croghan, the cave or crypt of Slane, and the cave of Dunmore near Kilkenny. The Irish name for this place is Uaimh Slaine. Where exactly these graves or caves sat has not been determined. Perhaps they formed part of the great neighbouring cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne. The Annals of the Four Masters, under the year 928, and the Dublin Penny Journal also speak of it. Whether New Grange might be the cave of Slane has been asked but not answered.

52. Hill of Skreen and its Legends

    Skreen · townland · Meath

    From the hill of Skreen, the ancient Acaill, one can view castles, churches and monasteries; the site holds legends about the shrine of Columba and the history of battles fought there by the Ostmen, later occupied by the Feypos, Cusacks and Verdons.

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    We might, by merely paraphrasing the translations of authentic Irish history, occiipy pages in recounting the deeds of Patrick, when he converted the Irish monarch and the whole court at Tara. We might, even now, preach with the sermons, and enliven modern Christianity with the hymns of our patron saint. We could tell of the cursing of Temur by St. Ruadhan, and its subsequent desertion. Or again, we might trace the various raths, and descant upon the wells and pillarstones which consecrate this spot. The Lia Fail, or stone of destiny, supposed to have been removed to Scone, and from Scone to Westminster, but which is still, it appears, uudoubtedly at Tara, would in itself form a text for an entire chapter upon the civil history of this kingdom; while the name of St. Adamnan is a fitting proem for an hour's dissertation on our early ecclesiastical writings, and the colonies which sprung from this Isle of Saints, even to the far-famed lona. Or, to come down to later years, the graves of the croppies, the lyrics of Tom Moore, and the monster meetings, would lead us far beyond the limits of this little work. Were we to allow ourselves the latitude we should desire, or, perhaps, the subject deserves, we would carry our readers to the opposite hill of Skreen, the ancient Acaill, and while we pointed out, from that elevated situation, the extensive prospect of the broad lands and fair mansions, the castles, churches, and monasteries, so full of interest in themselves, and such embellishments to the extended landscape within view, with the " Pleasant Boyne" gliding smoothly by them, we could also tell of the wonders of the locality whereon we stood, and call to our readers' recollection the legends about the shrine of Columba, and the history of the battles fought here by the Ostmen of old, and also refer to its occupation, in more modern times, by the Feypos, and Cusacks, and Verdons.

    For all that is known, or can, in all probability, be known,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here rises the hill of Skreen, the ancient Acaill. From that elevated spot, the view opens onto broad lands and fair mansions, castles, churches, and monasteries, with the Pleasant Boyne gliding smoothly by them. The hill carries its own legends. There are stories about the shrine of Columba. Battles were fought here by the Ostmen of old. In more modern times, the place was occupied by the Feypos, the Cusacks, and the Verdons. One could fill pages with the deeds of Patrick, who converted the Irish monarch and the whole court at Tara. One could tell of Saint Ruadhan cursing Temur, and its subsequent desertion. One could trace the various raths, and dwell on the wells and pillar stones that consecrate this spot. The Lia Fail, the stone of destiny, supposed to have been removed to Scone, and from Scone to Westminster, but which is still, it appears, undoubtedly at Tara, would in itself form a text for an entire chapter upon the civil history of this kingdom. The name of Saint Adamnan is a fitting proem for a discourse on early ecclesiastical writings, and the colonies which sprung from this Isle of Saints, even to far-famed Iona. To come down to later years, the graves of the croppies, the lyrics of Tom Moore, and the monster meetings, would lead far beyond the limits of a little work.

53. Rath of Laoghaire, Burial of a Standing King

    Tara · parish · Meath

    The Rath of Laoghaire on the southern slope of Tara Hill is said to be the burial place of King Laoghaire, who was buried in a standing position.

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    To the east of theForradh, immediately adjoining the road, is the Well of Neamhnach \_NewnagJi], a beautiful spring, formerly shaded by a magnificent ash tree, the roots of which still stretch over it. The only two other object of general interest to the tourist here are, the Rath of Laoghaire, upon the slope of the hill towards the south, in which it is said King Laoghaire was buried in a standing position ; and about a quarter of a mile distant, in the same direction, among some trees crowning an adjoining elevation, the great fort called the Rath of Queen Meve, Avhich is very well worth inspection.

    From the centre of the Forradh on the one side, and the King's Chair upon the other, we gain most extensive views of the great plains of Meath, extending along the Boyne from the towers of Trim to the wooded heights of Slane ; stretching over the course of the Blackwater to the regal hill of Tailtean, to Kells and to the moiintains of Cavan ; and, towards the southeast, taking in the tower of Skreen and the ancient castle adjoining.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    As the road passes through Tara, there is a rath on the southern slope of the hill. It is called the Rath of Laoghaire, and it is said that King Laoghaire was buried there in a standing position. The old account also speaks of the Well of Neamhnach, a spring formerly shaded by a magnificent ash tree, the roots of which still stretch over it. About a quarter of a mile from the rath, among some trees crowning an adjoining elevation, stands the great fort called the Rath of Queen Meve, which is said to be well worth inspection. From the Forradh and the King's Chair, the great plains of Meath open out along the Boyne from the towers of Trim to the wooded heights of Slane, stretching over the course of the Blackwater to the regal hill of Tailtean, to Kells and to the mountains of Cavan, and towards the southeast taking in the tower of Skreen and the ancient castle adjoining.

54. Balsoon, once residence of Archbishop Ussher

    Balsoon · townland · Meath

    Balsoon was once the residence of Archbishop Ussher, and its ruined church and ancient graveyard remain worthy of a visit.

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    Below Clady, some high, precipitous banks arise, upon the northern side of the river, near Bective House ; and upon the opposite hill, two sites, of considerable interest, claim our attention, — Balsoon and Asigh or Assey. The former was once the residence of Archbishop Ussher, and its ruined church and ancient graveyard are still worthy of a visit. The latter, called in Irish Ath-Siglie, consists of the ruins of a castle, originally constructed upon the type of those at Scurlogstown and Trubly, a square keep, with circular flanking towers at the eastern and western angles.f Like other castles of the Pale, its summit commands a most extended view, including a long reach of the river both above and below this point. On the slope leading down to the river we meet with a small group of ecclesiastical ruins, portions of the walls of one of the early missionary churches: the middle wall, with a square doorway, occupying the place of a choir arch ; and some broken fragments of stone mouldings, with a surrounding graveyard. Several noble ash trees, which seem the peculiar growth of the valley of the Boyne, shelter this ruined chapel ; and the luxuriant crop of white lichens, which have crept over the walls and adjacent tombstones, give this place an air of great antiquity.

    As the Boyne passes through the noble demense of Bellinter, it is again broken into islands, a group of which, nearly oppo-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Balsoon, Archbishop Ussher once had his residence. The ruined church and ancient graveyard here are, in the words of the old guide, "still worthy of a visit." The site sits on a hill opposite high banks above the river, near Bective House. What remains is quiet now, but the stones and the graves carry a long history back into the days of the Pale.

55. Loch-Gabhair Excavations near Dunshaughlin

    Dunshaughlin · town · Meath

    At Loch-Gabhair (Lough-Gower) near Dunshaughlin, a vast collection of ancient weapons, domestic implements, culinary utensils, toilet objects, and animal remains illustrating pre-tenth-century Irish life was discovered.

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    It is with some reluctance that we so soon return to the Boyne ; for at Loch-Gabhair, or Lough- Go wer, near Dunshaughlin, a few miles from hence, we could have introduced our readers to some subjects connected with the domestic life and usages of the Irish peojsle, prior to the tenth century, from a vast collection of weapons, domestic implements, and culinary utensils, and even objects employed in the toilet, as well as an enormous heap of animal remains, which were discovered in that locality not very long ago ; and have entered, at some length, and from most valuable authentic materials within our reach, into details concerning the races of cattle, and animals of the chase, as well as those used for domestic purposes, at that period in Ireland. But these we also fear to touch on; they are rather without the pale of this guide book; Ave cannot at present do more than direct attention to this interesting locality, and to the subjects which these remains illustrate. Perhaps upon some future occasion we may conduct the pilgrims of the Boyne to Skreen and Dunshaughlin.*

    Crossing the left bank of the Boyne at Bellinter bridge we enter the noble demesne of Ardsallagh,| now belonging to the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Dunshaughlin in Meath, this is the country of Loch-Gabhair, or Lough-Gower, where a vast collection of ancient remains came to light not very long ago. They date from before the tenth century and paint a picture of everyday Irish life at that time. The finds include weapons, domestic implements, culinary utensils, and even objects used in the toilet, alongside an enormous heap of animal remains. Those bones alone could have told a great deal about the races of cattle and the animals of the chase kept in Ireland in that period. The writer of the old guidebook regretted that he could not linger over these details, calling them most valuable authentic materials, and could do no more than direct attention to this interesting locality and the subjects the remains illustrate. He hoped that on some future occasion he might conduct pilgrims of the Boyne to Skreen and Dunshaughlin to take it all in.

56. The military rath near the great mound of Clonard

    Clonard · town · Meath

    A short distance north-west of the great tumulus at Clonard stands a rath or dun of the military class, capable of holding 200 men, with an external fosse, raised earthen wall, and a broad eastern entrance.

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    Independent of this great mound beside the town of old Clonard, the entire of the vicinity is studded over with mounds, forts, and raths, of various shapes and sizes ; there is one, however, in particular, a short distance to the north-west of the great tumulus, to which we would especially direct the attention of the tourist, on account of its importance, and the peculiarity of its structure, as distinguished from the sepulchral mounds in its neighbourhood. This rath or dun, which is evidently one of the military class, formed an ancient fort or encampment, and was capable of containing as many as 200 men ; it consists of an external fosse, encircling a raised ditch, or circular earthen wall, within which we find a level platform, elevated somewhat above the surrounding plain, but not so high as the earthen circle which encloses it. A broad entrance, through which a modern carriage might enter, exists upon its eastern side.

    In some instances there is a double wall of circumvallation ; and cases might be enumerated, in which sepulchral mounds, cromlechs, and tumuli, exist in the centre of these military enclosures. Several of these ancient forts contain a central subterranean chamber, and circular passages, in all probability for the purposes of security, and to serve as granaries ; and beside the rude weapons and ornaments occasionally discovered in their

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clonard, the whole area around the town is studded with mounds, forts and raths of various shapes and sizes. A short distance north-west of the great tumulus here stands one that is worth noting. It is a military rath or dun, an ancient fort or encampment, built to hold as many as 200 men. It has an external fosse encircling a raised circular earthen wall, and inside that wall a level platform sits, raised somewhat above the surrounding plain but not as high as the earthen circle enclosing it. A broad entrance on the eastern side is wide enough for a modern carriage to pass through. The source calls it important and peculiar in its structure, distinguished from the sepulchral mounds around it. In some cases these forts had a double wall, or contained burial mounds and cromlechs at their centre, and several held a central underground chamber with circular passages, likely for security and as granaries.

57. Absence of Irish ecclesiastical features at Mellifont

    Mellifont · townland · Louth

    The author notes that Mellifont lacks any characteristic elements of true Irish ecclesiastical architecture - no round tower, crosses, inscribed tombs, or Irish-style doorways - marking it as an entirely foreign foundation.

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    The ancient well was discovered some years ago, and the arch above it has been restored. The foundations, and considerable remains of the monastery, still exist to the south-west of the Baptistry, and several low crypts, partially beneath the siirface, are yet accessible. Above these, large portions of the masonry, though prostrate, still remain, held together by the ancient cement. These masses, thus preserved apparently by their own internal cohesion, resemble the true and invisible church itself, no matter how much shattered by internal schism or by external revolution, and its simplicity obscured by human craft or pride, is always capable of restoration, ever preserving enough of ornamental design, even in the fragments, to permit of repair, reconstruction, or reform. One cannot fail to be struck with the remarkable fact, that there is not a single characteristic emblem or element of true Irish ecclesiastical architecture at Mellifont; no round tower, no crosses, no inscriptions on tombs, no doorways with straight lintels and inclining jambs, and no knotted tracery, indicative of early Irish art. Everything we meet here is foreign.

    The destruction and desecration going forward at Mellifont is perhaps greater than at any other place of the same note or beauty in Ireland. If the proprietor would clear away the accumulated filth and rubbish, and restore from the neighbouring gardens the heaps of carved stone accumulated

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 165

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here at Mellifont, there is not a single characteristic emblem or element of true Irish ecclesiastical architecture. No round tower stands here. No crosses. No inscriptions on tombs. No doorways with straight lintels and inclining jambs. No knotted tracery indicative of early Irish art. Everything you meet at Mellifont is foreign. An ancient well was discovered some years ago, and the arch above it has been restored. The foundations and considerable remains of the monastery still exist to the south-west of the Baptistry. Several low crypts, partially beneath the surface, are yet accessible. Above these, large portions of the masonry, though prostrate, still remain, held together by the ancient cement. These masses, preserved apparently by their own internal cohesion, resemble the true and invisible church itself, no matter how much shattered by internal schism or by external revolution, and its simplicity obscured by human craft or pride, is always capable of restoration, ever preserving enough of ornamental design, even in the fragments, to permit of repair, reconstruction, or reform. The destruction and desecration going forward at Mellifont is perhaps greater than at any other place of the same note or beauty in Ireland. If the proprietor would clear away the accumulated filth and rubbish, and restore from the neighbouring gardens the heaps of carved stone accumulated, much could yet be recovered.

58. Remains of St Mary's Abbey in the Earl of Thomond's demesne, Duleek

    Duleek · town · Meath

    In the demesne of the Earl of Thomond near Duleek stand the hidden ruins of the ancient abbey of St Mary, comprising a castellated gateway, a fragment of the chapel's eastern gable with traces of Gothic tracery, and part of the refectory, all obscured by a thick grove.

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    In the neighbouring demesne of the Earl of Thomond, which is pleasingly situated on the banks of the Nanny, and ornamented with some well- grown timber, we find the remains of the ancient abbey of St. Mary, in three detached portions, consisting of the ruins of the castellated gateway ; a fragment of the eastern gable of the chapel, the windows of which must, from the scraps of stone mullions still visible, have been a splendid specimen of Gothic tracery; and a small bit of the refectory, or domestic part of the establishment; but these are all so completely surrounded by a thick grove, that, unless inquired for, the tourist could never find them out.

    in the street of the village stands a remarkably formed, slender way-side cross, similar to that we described near Stackallan, at page 170, and, like it, was erected by one of the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 159

    As the companion tells it

    Near Duleek, in the Earl of Thomond's demesne on the banks of the Nanny, stand the remains of the ancient abbey of St Mary. The ruins survive in three detached portions. There is a castellated gateway. There is a fragment of the eastern gable of the chapel, its windows once a splendid specimen of Gothic tracery, judging from the scraps of stone mullions still visible. And there is a small bit of the refectory, the domestic part of the establishment. All three are so completely surrounded by a thick grove that unless you inquired for them, you could never find them. In the street of the village itself stands a remarkably formed, slender wayside cross, similar to one near Stackallan, erected by one of the same family.

59. The Ancient Gateway of Mellifont

    Mellifont · townland · Louth

    A tall, dark, massive gateway tower at Mellifont, square in shape with an elevated turret, remains nearly entire and was the chief entrance to the monastic enclosure. The author describes it as more truth-telling than books about the lawless state of the surrounding country at the time of its erection.

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    now unfolding their graceful tops to the gaze of summer. The water of the rivulet is here carried by a mill-race under the arch of the ancient gateway, a tall, dark, massive tower, square in shape and stern in aspect, and bearing an elevated turret at its north-eastern angle. This frowning portal, which still remains nearly entire, and was evidently the chief entrance to the monastic enclosure, is an historic evidence fully as authentic, and more truth- telling than books, of the state of the surrounding country at the time of its erection ; and while the peaceful consecrated strvictures in the enclosure below are landmarks of learning and religion within, this bold castle tells a tale of the lawlessness and rapine which raged without. From this point we look down upon a confused mass of ruins, — arches, churches, solid blocks of ancient masonry, some standing, others prostrate, — several ivy-clad walls and grass-grown mounds, a few dirty thatched cabins, with an ugly, square, slated mill, and an adjoining farm-yard. But, fortunately, although the cabins and the mill sadly mar the general effect, neither of them is in immediate contiguity with the ruins.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 161

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Mellifont, a tall dark massive tower stands nearly entire. It is square in shape, stern in aspect, with an elevated turret at its north-eastern angle. This was the chief entrance to the monastic enclosure. A mill-race carries the water of the rivulet under its arch. The author calls this frowning portal more truth-telling than books, an historic evidence of the state of the surrounding country at the time of its erection. The peaceful consecrated structures within the enclosure below are landmarks of learning and religion. This bold castle tells a tale of the lawlessness and rapine which raged without. From this point you look down upon a confused mass of ruins, arches, churches, solid blocks of ancient masonry, some standing, others prostrate, several ivy-clad walls and grass-grown mounds, a few dirty thatched cabins, with an ugly square slated mill and an adjoining farm-yard. Fortunately, neither the cabins nor the mill are in immediate contiguity with the ruins.

60. The Bloc and Bluicni Coronation Stones

    Tara · parish · Meath

    Near the Rath of the Synods stands a short pillar-stone, similar to those at Newgrange, believed to be one of the two druidical stones called Bloc and Bluicni that opened to admit the king's chariot at coronation.

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    pillar-stone, not unlike some oi' those at NeAV Grange. This is supposed to be one of the two druidical stones called Bloc and Bluicni, which used to open out to admit the chariot of the king at his coronation.

    Proceeding still southward we pass into the great oval enclosure of the Eath na Riogh, the King's Rath or the Cathair of Crofinn, the most extensive of all the earthen circles at Tara, measuring upAvards of 280 yards in length in its longest dimensions. It is obliterated in several places, but a sufficiency still remains to point out its site. Immediately Avithin its northern boundary we find the mound of the hostages, Dumhana-Ngiall, a small circular moat, so named in memory of the hostages Avhich King Cormac took from the different provinces, and on which formerly lay the obelistic monolith, believed to be the Lia Fail, or Stone of Destiny. Nearly in the centre Ave meet the triple enclosure of the Forradli; and toward the south-east and immediately adjoining the latter, the Teach Cormaic, the House of Cormac.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    As the road passes through Tara, in Meath, there stands near the Rath of the Synods a short pillar-stone, not unlike some of those at Newgrange. It is supposed to be one of the two druidical stones called Bloc and Bluicni, which used to open out to admit the chariot of the king at his coronation. Beyond it lies the great oval enclosure of the Rath na Riogh, the King's Rath, or the Cathair of Crofinn, the most extensive of all the earthen circles at Tara, measuring upwards of 280 yards in length in its longest dimensions. It is obliterated in several places, but a sufficiency still remains to point out its site. Immediately within its northern boundary stands the Mound of the Hostages, Dumha-na-Ngiall, a small circular moat, named in memory of the hostages which King Cormac took from the different provinces. On it formerly lay the obelistic monolith believed to be the Lia Fail, the Stone of Destiny. Near the centre is the triple enclosure of the Forradh, and toward the south-east, adjoining it, Teach Cormaic, the House of Cormac.