The Beauties of the Boyne, and its Tributary, the Blackwater

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Square forts on the banks of the Blackwater

   Castlekeeran · townland · Meath

   A number of forts and earthen raths crowd both sides of the river near Castlekieran barony, with two notably square enclosures standing on the immediate brink of the stream, indicating the area's early military importance.

   Read the passage

   from Sliabli Guaire,* is about f^ve miles in length, and from a mile to a mile and a half in breadth. In the year A. D. 845, King Malachy I., who first broke down the Danish power in Ireland, attached and destroyed an island in this lake, on which a number of Irish outlaws and rebels of Meath, who joined the Danes against their own monarch, had fortified themselves. The Irish annals state that these rebels were in the habit of plundering the districts in the neighbourhood of the lake "more Gentilium;" and that Malachy destroyed their island, and put themselves to death. Upon its northern shore stands the neat little town of Virginia, where the tourist who may wish to visit the source of the Sele will find admirable accommodation. After a course of about a mile and a half, the river touches Meath at the barony of Castlekieran, having the coach-road parallel with, and but a short distance from it. It now completely enters Meath, through Avhich county it passes during the remainder of its course. For the first few miles the only objects of antiquarian interest in its vicinity are a number of forts and earthen raths, which crowd upon both sides of the river, and show the military importance of this locality, as Avell as its populous condition, in early times. Several of these enclosures are of great extent, and two which stand upon the immediate brink of the stream are worthy of note, from the peculiarity of their form, being perfectly square.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 87

2. The Abbey at Bective

   Bective · townland · Meath

   At Bective the tourist crosses to the left bank of the Boyne to see the Abbey before proceeding to Clady.

   Read the passage

   Bectivo, distant from Trim four miles and a half, and from Navan three and a half miles. Here we cross to the left bank, and having seen the Abbey, proceed upon the same side to visit Clady, which is not a mile distant, and returning by the same route to Bective Bridge, follow the road upon the right bank to Rivei'stown Castle, and thence ascend the hill of Tara, which being seen, it will be found most advisable to proceed to the bridge of Bellinter, and cross over to the left bank, and then, passing through the demesne of Ardsalla, visit Cannistown. We next cross the Boyne at Athcarne Bridge, in order to see the font at Johnstown, described at page 130, about half a mile distant. It is then optional to proceed to Navan by the road upon the right bank of the river, by which one of the best views of Athlumney Castle can be gained, or to return again to Athcarne Bridge.

   At Navan the tourist will decide whether he visits the Blackwater then, or makes a separate excursion to it afterwards. Cars can be hired to proceed by Kells to Virginia. The tourist will find it best in so doing to proceed up the river by Liscarton Castle, upon the left bank, to Kells, where the coach-road crosses to the right bank, and, having visited St. Kieran's church and well at Castlekieran, the most distant point of interest upon the Blackwater, and to return by Teltown, Donaghpatrick, and Rathaldron, to Navan, by the left or northern road. Coaches, however, proceed daily to Kells and Virginia, at both of which places cars can be procured to return to Navan. The examination of the Blackwater, by any of these means, will occupy an entire day. Tourists can leave Dublin by one of the early trains and go by Drogheda to Navan, from whence public conveyances proceed by Kells to Virginia ; or cars can be hired at either of these places to visit the Blackwater, and return in time to catch the up-trains from Navan to Dublin.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Bective, somewhere around here, stands the Abbey the old guide meant you to stop for. Bective itself sat four and a half miles from Trim and three and a half from Navan, and from here the route crossed to the left bank of the Boyne so you could see the Abbey before pressing on to Clady, less than a mile along the same side. The book lays out the whole circuit a tourist was meant to make: back across Bective Bridge, then along the right bank to Rivei'stown Castle, up the hill of Tara, across to Bellinter bridge, through the demesne of Ardsalla to Cannistown, then over Athcarne Bridge to see the font at Johnstown half a mile on. After that you could take the right bank road toward Navan for a view of Athlumney Castle, or come back to Athcarne Bridge. None of that tells you much about the Abbey itself. The record names it and gives its place on the route, and the rest is directions, distances, and where to hire a car next.

3. The Parochial Chapel Above Mellifont Valley

   Mellifont · townland · Louth

   A small chapel surrounded by a little-used cemetery stands on the hill forming the north-eastern brow of the Mellifont valley, offering a panoramic view from the hill of Collon to Slane. In front of the building lie remains of an early cross carved with a heart in a circle, and another cross with fleur-de-lis terminals.

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   Having passed the gateway, the next immediate object of interest, at least in point of position, is a small chapel, surrounded by a cemetery, now but little used, on the hill forming the north-eastern brow of the valley. It has little in itself to attract attention, but from it a fine panoramic view may be obtained of a great extent of country, spreading from the hill of Collon in the Oriel district to that of Slane. The building does not differ from the usual small Irish churches of the fifteenth or sixteenth century, and was probably the parochial church. The western gable, which rises at top into a double belfry, contains a pointed arched doorway; and above, but not immediately over this, is a small, double, round-arched window. One small narrow light occupies the eastern gable. A few paces in front of this building lie the remains of a very simple early cross, on the exposed surface of which is carved a circle containing a heart; and also a cross, the top and each arm of which end in a fleur-de-lis, or at least that Ibrm of terminal bearing some resemblance thereto, which is usual in such Irish crosses.

   Descending into the valley, and before we proceed to examine the ruins in detail, we present our readers with a general view of the scene, taken from a spot beyond the river, and opposite the side at which we entered. The building in the

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 161

4. Kilcarn church and its ancient font

   Kilcarn · townland · Meath

   The ruined church of Kilcarn takes its name from an adjoining cairn, and is notable for an ancient baptismal font recently exhumed there. The font was later removed to the Roman Catholic chapel of Johnstown.

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   Let us cross the river again, and make a little detour of about half a mile from this spot to view the old church of Kilcarn, which derives its name from an adjoining cairn. It is now a complete ruin, claiming attention only from the ancient baptismal font, which was recently exhumed here, but which has been very lately removed into the neighbouring Roman Catholic chapel of Johnstown.* Mr. Wakeman, in his Hand-

   * The preservation of this beautiful font is due to an intelligent blacksmith, named Walsh, who resides in the neighbourhood, and whose family burial-

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 81

5. Round tower skull found at Drumbo

   Drumbo · townland · Down

   A skull belonging to the globular-headed race was found beneath the round tower of Drumbo, used as anthropological evidence in the author's race discussion.

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   Skulls, ancient, found near Kinnafad, described, 40 ; belonging to two distinct races, 41 ; two distinct forms of, found also in Scandinavian sepulchres, 226-228 ; skulls of the long-headed race, 229 ; specimens found in a tumulus near Denley in England, and in ancient Etruscan tombs, 230 ; of the globular -headed race, 231; specimen found near Dunamase, 232; one found beneath the round tower of Drumbo, 236 ; of Donatus, first Danish Archbishop of Dublin, 237.

   Slane, view from the hill of, with its associations, 179, 180; St. Patrick's arrival at, 180 ; destruction of the cloictheach or round tower of, 181 ; ancient tomb, 182 ; ruins of thechmxh and monastery of, 188.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

6. Ruins of Ticroghan Castle and Chapel

   Ticroghan · townland · Meath

   On the northern road along the left bank of the Boyne between Ballybogan and Clonard, tourists could visit the ruins of Ticroghan castle and its chapel.

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   From Carbery to Edenderry is not quite four English miles. Except the old castle, which is difficult of access, there is very little to delay the tourist in this town. Two roads — one direct to the Hill of Carrick, the other, the most circuitous, by Monasteroris, Kinnafad, and Grange — lead downward, to Ballybogan. The former is the shorter, the latter by far the most interestmg. From Edenderry to Monasteroris is not quite two miles ; from thence to Kinnafad a mile, and by the Castle of Grange to the Hill of Carrick two and a half miles more. The next point of interest is Ballybogan, four miles distant from Carrick, and eight from Edenderry. Here two roads, one on each side of tlie Boyne, lead to Clonard. If the tourist intends to return to Dublin the same night, the northern road upon the left bank of the river, by which the ruins of Ticroghan castle and chapel may be visited, will be found not only the most interesting, but the shortest. From Ballybogan Bridge to Clonard is two miles. Having visited the moat and the site of the ecclesiastical ruins adjoining, the tourist can either continue on to Trim, which is about twelve English* miles distant, by crossing to the right bank of the river, at the Boyne Aqueduct, or he can return by the Great Western road, over Leinster Bridge, to the railwaj' station at Moyvalley, which is about four miles distant ; and, taking the evening up-train from IMullingar, return to Dublin the same night. If the latter course is pursued, the tourist should proceed by railway to Moyvalley the second day ; then visit Clonard ; and thence proceed down the river by Trim to Navan, where a branch of the Drogheda railway will take him up to Dublin in something more than two hours.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 11

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here are the ruins of Ticroghan castle and chapel. Travellers on the northern road along the left bank of the Boyne, between Ballybogan and Clonard, could visit them. The old guide calls this road the most interesting and the shortest way to Clonard, which is two miles from Ballybogan Bridge. Beyond that, the book says only that the ruins stand here and the road passes them by.

7. Tara's monuments and chief objects of interest

   Tara · parish · Meath

   The index describes Tara as awakening reminiscences through its monuments, with guidance on how to view the site and notice of its chief objects of interest, including Tea-mur ruins and Teach Cormaic.

   Read the passage

   Tara, reminiscences awakened by the monuments of, 119, 120; how to see, 121 ; brief notice of the chief objects of interest at, 122-12G.

   Tea-mur, ruins of, 124.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 181

8. Ancient animal remains discovered at Dunshaughlin

   Dunshaughlin · town · Meath

   In the bogs and marshes of Meath at Dunshaughlin, near the Boyne, numerous remains of ancient wild and domestic animals were discovered, particularly oxen with head and horn beauty rivaling the finest modern breeds.

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   ture lands; the finest horned cattle, with theexcej^tion of those of Kosconimon, are bred in Meath ; and its vicinity to the metropolis and the sea has always afforded it a ready home consumption, and an easy mode of transit to the English markets. Its crops are generally so luxuriant, and its land so fertile, that .it has been asserted that if it were all grown in corn it would feed and might form the granary for the whole of Ireland. Its natural capabilities, and particularly its flat level surface, must have rendered it easy to retain when once possessed by an invading army, and easy to colonize by an industrious people. The fertility and riches of Meath more than once excited the cupidity of the roving Northmen ; and several incursions of the Danes are enumerated in the Annals, but particularly that of Turgesius, in the ninth century. Naturalists have been at some pains to discover from whence or through what breeds the present improved English race of short-horned and other highly esteemed varieties of domestic oxen have been obtained, and indeed the question is not yet decided ; this fact, however, is certain, that in the bogs and marshes of Meath, at Duushaughlin, not far from the river Boyne, numerous remains of the ancient animals, both wild and domestic, which formerly existed in this country, have been discovered, and particularly those of oxen, which for beauty of head and horn might vie with the finest modern improved breeds of England, notwithstanding all the pains and expense that have been gone to in bringing them to their present state of perfection; and yet there can be little doubt of those bones, to which we have referred, having lain beneath the surface for many centuries.*

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 20

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Dunshaughlin in Meath, you are travelling ground where naturalists once made a striking discovery. In the bogs and marshes near the Boyne, numerous remains of ancient animals, both wild and domestic, were found. The oxen bones were remarkable, for in beauty of head and horn they might vie with the finest modern improved breeds of England, despite all the pains and expense gone into bringing those breeds to their present state. The question of where the present English short-horned and other highly esteemed varieties came from was not yet decided, but these remains showed that fine cattle had existed here centuries ago. The bones had lain beneath the surface for many centuries. Meath itself was known for breeding the finest horned cattle, and its land was so fertile that it was said if it were all grown in corn it would feed all of Ireland. That richness excited the cupidity of the roving Northmen, and several Danish incursions are recorded in the Annals, particularly that of Turgesius in the ninth century.

9. Ancient inscribed tomb of Ruarcan at Monasterboice

   Monasterboice · townland · Louth

   An early Irish tomb still remains at Monasterboice near the path leading from the tower to the smaller cross, bearing an inscription praying for a man named Ruarcan.

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   We find one early Irish tomb still remaining at Monasterboice, on the left of the path leading from the tower to the smaller cross just described. It bears this inscription: "Op t>u Ruapcan," i. e. " A prayer for Ruarcan."

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 170

10. Ancient skulls found near Kinnafad

    Kinnafad · townland · Kildare

    Ancient skulls belonging to two distinct races were found near Kinnafad, providing evidence used to discuss the physical anthropology of ancient Irish peoples.

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    Skulls, ancient, found near Kinnafad, described, 40 ; belonging to two distinct races, 41 ; two distinct forms of, found also in Scandinavian sepulchres, 226-228 ; skulls of the long-headed race, 229 ; specimens found in a tumulus near Denley in England, and in ancient Etruscan tombs, 230 ; of the globular -headed race, 231; specimen found near Dunamase, 232; one found beneath the round tower of Drumbo, 236 ; of Donatus, first Danish Archbishop of Dublin, 237.

    Slane, view from the hill of, with its associations, 179, 180; St. Patrick's arrival at, 180 ; destruction of the cloictheach or round tower of, 181 ; ancient tomb, 182 ; ruins of thechmxh and monastery of, 188.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

11. Ancient tumulus within Tyrrell's mansion grounds

    Clonard · town · Meath

    A very perfect ancient tumulus survives within the enclosure of Tyrrell's mansion at Clonard.

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    Within the enclosure of Tyrrell's mansion may be seen a very perfect ancient tumulus.

    The name of this celebrated spot, Clonard, or Cluain loraird, has been translated by Ware, Vallancey, and other topographers, "• the Eetirement on the Western Heights:" but this meaning is very questionable, for there are no heights, or even hills, in this locality, to which such could refer. Cluain, which is the general prefix to the names of our churches and bishops' sees, means a lawn, an insulated meadow, or level, fertile plain, surrounded by a bog or marsh ; in fact a kind of oasis, as we know is the general appearance of such localities in Ireland ; and loraird is a proper name: we have examples of this in Cluain Mac Nois, Cluain Coner, Cluain Dolcain, &c,* Clonard was once the most distinguished bishop's see in Meath, perhaps it would not be exaggeration to say in the kingdom ; and its cathedral may be conjectured to have been one of the very first erected in Ireland, and was probably coeval with Clonmacnoise, and the original buildings at Armagh. It is well known to have been one of the most distinguished seats of learning of which the Irish historians can boast. Ware informs us that St. Finnian, Finen, or Finbar, who must have been one of the immediate successors of St. Patrick, was created first Bishop of Clonard in 520, " where he also opened a school, which, bj his care and industry, produced many men of eminent sanctity and learning, among whom were the two Kierans, the two Breudans, the two Columbs (namely, Columb Kill, and Columb, the son of Crimthau), Laserian,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clonard in Meath, there is a very perfect ancient tumulus standing within the enclosure of Tyrrell's mansion. The name Clonard, or Cluain loraird, has been translated by Ware and Vallancey as the Retirement on the Western Heights, though that meaning is questionable, since there are no heights or even hills in this locality. Cluain means a lawn, an insulated meadow, or a level fertile plain surrounded by bog or marsh, a kind of oasis, as such localities generally appear in Ireland, and loraird is a proper name. Clonard was once the most distinguished bishop's see in Meath, and perhaps in the kingdom. Its cathedral may have been one of the very first erected in Ireland, probably coeval with Clonmacnoise and the original buildings at Armagh. It was one of the most distinguished seats of learning of which the Irish historians can boast. Ware tells us that St. Finnian, also called Finen or Finbar, one of the immediate successors of St. Patrick, was created first Bishop of Clonard in 520, where he opened a school that produced many men of eminent sanctity and learning, among them the two Kierans, the two Brendans, the two Columbs, and Laserian.

12. De Lacy's castle at Clonard, possibly at Ticroghan

    Ticroghan · townland · Meath

    A castle was erected at Clonard by Hugh de Lacy, but unless Ticroghan is the actual site, even its foundations have long since disappeared.

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    In 1206, Simon Rochford, an Englishman, — for English ecclesiastics ruled in Ireland then, as well as now, — who assumed the title of Bishop of Meath, removed the episcopal chair from Clonard to Newtown, near Trim, where he founded the celebrated abbey of Augustinian Monks. Clonard is frequently mentioned in the Annals of the Four Masters, and all the ecclesiastical histories of Ireland, and some of the most distinguished Irish prelates are said to have been buried there.f There was also a castle at Clonard, erected by Hugh de Lacy, but, unless Ticroghan be the spot, even its foundations have long since been obliterated.

    Amongst the legendary lore attached to this abbey, is a tale of Columba, the son of Crimthan, having been seen late one night in his cell, when his lamp had expired, reading the sacred volume by a light which emanated from the tips of his fingers, as he passed them over the leaves before him.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Hugh de Lacy once erected a castle at Clonard. If this is indeed the spot, even its foundations have long since been obliterated. Clonard appears often in the Annals of the Four Masters and the ecclesiastical histories of Ireland, and some of the most distinguished Irish prelates are said to have been buried there. In 1206, Simon Rochford, an Englishman who assumed the title of Bishop of Meath, removed the episcopal chair from Clonard to Newtown, near Trim, where he founded the celebrated abbey of Augustinian monks. Among the legendary lore attached to this abbey is a tale of Columba, the son of Crimthan, having been seen late one night in his cell, when his lamp had expired, reading the sacred volume by a light which emanated from the tips of his fingers, as he passed them over the leaves before him.

13. Dunmoe Castle beside the Boyne

    Dunmoe · townland · Meath

    Dunmoe Castle is depicted together with the Boyne river and an adjacent mill, marking it as a landscape and antiquarian feature along the river.

    Read the passage

    37. Dunnioe Castle, with the Boyne and Mill, &c., 167

    38. Castle Dexter, 173

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stands Dunmoe Castle beside the Boyne. It was recorded as a view in a book of the river's beauties, shown together with the Boyne and a mill. That's the whole record: a castle and a mill by the water, numbered as a stop along the river.

14. Long-headed race skull fragments found in the great cairn at Dowth

    Dowth · townland · Meath

    Fragments of heads found within the great cairn at Dowth were identified as belonging to the long-headed race, one of the two ancient racial types discussed by the author.

    Read the passage

    of a more globular form than those found in ancient Pagan tumuli, as if intermixture of races had modified the peculiarities of the crania, from the elongated to the true globular or Tuatha De Danaan. And again at the Ford of Kinnafad, we have shown at pp. 38-40, that the skulls and skeletons of both races, as well as the weapons which were probably employed by each, were discovered. The fragments of heads found in the great cairn at Dowth belonged to the long-headed race. Last month (July, 1849), four skeletons were found in the rocky cliffs above Redbay, near Cushendall, county of Antrim. Through the kindness of a friend we possess one of the skulls of these skeletons ; it partakes of most of the characters of the long-headed race, but it is somewhat greater in capacity, and approaches the globular form more than those found in the ancient sepulchres of Pagan times. Now what adds particular interest to these hiiman remains is, that a small stone celt or hatchet, and two bronze celts, were found along with them; these weapons enable us to form some conjecture of the probable age of the skulls, and also show that the bronze and stone weapons were used at the same time in this country : but that which fixes the date of the interment of these skeletons was the discovery of two small Saxon silver coins of the early part of the ninth century.*

    From the foregoing observations it is manifest not only that two separate races, the earliest characterized by very longheads, and who were probably the Firbolgs, or first colonizers, and the other by more globular and capacious skulls, and who, it would appear, were the Tuatha de Danaan, the conquerors of the former, existed in this country prior to the Christian era; but that both races subsequently existed together, and probably amalgamated. Skulls exhibiting both characters may be observed among the present truly Irish inhabitants, but that the more we approach the south and west the more do the former predominate, both in the existing inhabitants, and in the crania found in ancient burial-places.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 143

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dowth, the great cairn here yielded fragments of heads that belonged to what the author calls the long-headed race. He believed these people were probably the Firbolgs, the first colonisers of Ireland, characterised by very elongated skulls. A second race, with more globular and capacious skulls, was identified as the Tuatha de Danaan, who conquered the former. Both races, the author argues, existed in this country before the Christian era. At the Ford of Kinnafad, skulls and skeletons of both races were found together, along with weapons probably employed by each. The author takes this as evidence that the two races subsequently lived alongside one another and likely amalgamated. He even claims that skulls exhibiting both characters may be observed among the present Irish inhabitants, with the long-headed type predominating the further south and west you go. So the fragments pulled from this cairn were read as traces of the earliest layer of people in Ireland, before the Tuatha de Danaan arrived and overcame them.

15. Long-headed skull found near Navan of later, mixed type

    Navan · town · Meath

    Bones and antiquities found in the vicinity of Navan included a skull that partakes of the long-headed race but is more globular in form, suggesting intermixture of races, and belongs to a later period than the Dunshaughlin finds.

    Read the passage

    To the skulls and human remains found in connexion with sepulchral monuments alone can we assign a positive date, and therefore it is that in the foregoing description wehave confined our remarks to those found under such circumstances, and have figured them as typical forms. But we sometimes find human remains in connexion with certain antiquities which serve to fix their date, and sometimes upon battle-fields, the date of the actions of which has been recorded in history ; and the crania found under these circumstance have been partially preserved, and many of them we have had an opportunity of examining. In that great collection of animal remains and antiquities, found at Dvinshaughlin some years ago, one perfect, and fragments of two other human skulls were discovered. They partake of the characters of the long-headed race, and the antiquities found in that collection would lead us to believe that the persons to whom those skulls belonged lived about the tenth century. And in the collection of bones and antiquities found in the vicinity of Navan, which we have described at page 135, and Avhich must have belonged to a much later period, as we know by an examination of the antiquities, a skull which was there dug up evidently partakes of the character of the long-headed race, but it is

    SAXON COINS FOUND WITH SKULLS IN IRELAND. 239

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Navan, in Meath, this is where a skull was dug up among a collection of bones and antiquities. It belongs to a much later period than the finds at Dunshaughlin, where skulls of the long-headed race were dated to about the 10th century by the antiquities found with them. The Navan skull partakes of the long-headed character but is more globular in form. The author takes this to suggest an intermixture of races, placing it later than the Dunshaughlin remains.

16. Military rath near Bective Abbey

    Bective · townland · Meath

    Near the Navan road on the northern bank of the Boyne, not far from the abbey, stands one of the early military raths so common throughout Meath.

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    Near the Navan road, upon the northern bank of the river, not far from the abbey, we find one of those early military raths, so common throughout Meath; and about three-quarters of a mile below Bective bridge, on the same side, upon a small tongue of land which runs out between a tributary streamlet and the river, some very interesting and hitherto almost unnoticed remains, both Pagan and Christian, claim our attention. These consist of the old church and bridge of Clady, and some subterranean structures lately discovered in the immediate vicinity. The church, which is now a complete ruin, was originally a parallelogram, with a projection at the south-eastern side — a sort of transept — and a bell-turret upon the western gable; but although Ave are able to trace the outline of this building throughout, the only portion of much interest spared by the hand of time is a very beautiful window, in the south chapel, the stone frame- work of which is still very perfect. It consists of two cinquefoiled arches, in the " early English" style, separated by a light shaft. The carvings on the round capitals are rich and tasteful. An aged elder-bush overshadowing and partly protruding through these lights, serves to heighten the etFect of the picture, while a patriarchal ash, of gigantic dimensions, spreads its rugged arms over the adjoining graveyard. That many such Avindows as that we have described must have existed in this church originally, may be learned from the quantity of fragments, exhibiting the same form of mouldings and carving, Avhich are scattered around, or partly sunk in the ground, as head-stones. A hollow stone, apparently an ancient lavatory or a piscina, is still remaining in the enclosure, on the northern side. Mi\ Bolton, in Avhose demesne

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, near the Navan road on the northern bank of the Boyne, stands one of the early military raths so common throughout Meath. These earthwork forts date from Ireland's earliest centuries, and this one sits close to Bective Abbey, tying the landscape's ancient defences to its medieval worship.

17. Old Castle of Edenderry

    Edenderry · town · Offaly

    The town of Edenderry has an old castle that is noted as difficult of access, with little else to detain the tourist in the town itself.

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    From Carbery to Edenderry is not quite four English miles. Except the old castle, which is difficult of access, there is very little to delay the tourist in this town. Two roads — one direct to the Hill of Carrick, the other, the most circuitous, by Monasteroris, Kinnafad, and Grange — lead downward, to Ballybogan. The former is the shorter, the latter by far the most interestmg. From Edenderry to Monasteroris is not quite two miles ; from thence to Kinnafad a mile, and by the Castle of Grange to the Hill of Carrick two and a half miles more. The next point of interest is Ballybogan, four miles distant from Carrick, and eight from Edenderry. Here two roads, one on each side of tlie Boyne, lead to Clonard. If the tourist intends to return to Dublin the same night, the northern road upon the left bank of the river, by which the ruins of Ticroghan castle and chapel may be visited, will be found not only the most interesting, but the shortest. From Ballybogan Bridge to Clonard is two miles. Having visited the moat and the site of the ecclesiastical ruins adjoining, the tourist can either continue on to Trim, which is about twelve English* miles distant, by crossing to the right bank of the river, at the Boyne Aqueduct, or he can return by the Great Western road, over Leinster Bridge, to the railwaj' station at Moyvalley, which is about four miles distant ; and, taking the evening up-train from IMullingar, return to Dublin the same night. If the latter course is pursued, the tourist should proceed by railway to Moyvalley the second day ; then visit Clonard ; and thence proceed down the river by Trim to Navan, where a branch of the Drogheda railway will take him up to Dublin in something more than two hours.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 11

18. Pomeroy family burial ground near Carbury Castle

    Carbury · townland · Kildare

    A modern burial-ground near Carbury Castle is chiefly occupied with the remains of members of the Pomeroy family.

    Read the passage

    100 feet, and the general view of the castle, upon our first approach, with its chimneys, narrow pointed gables, and large stone-sashed windows, is that of one of the best specimens of the castellated mansions of about the time of James I., which we know of in this country, combining lightness, taste, and comfort, with strength and durability. The eastern front, which measures sixty feet, still remains Avith several of its mullioned windows, even yet quite perfect, and upon a gentle slope leading down from its walls on this side may still be traced the vestiges of a garden, with a few of its flowers, now wild and neglected, mingling with the rank liorin-grass with which it is surrounded. In fact everything about this ruin bears evidence of ladies fair as well as valiant knights having inhabited it. Such is the impression made by this ruin from a glance at its external face, particularly from the point of view from which the drawing figured on tlie other side was taken ; but upon a closer inspection, and an internal examination, we perceive from the character of the masonry, the massive walls, the deep, stone-roofed donjons, the principal of which runs for eighty-five feet iinderneath the great keep, from south to north, the manifest antiquity of the entire of the western end, and the general arrangement of the whole, that the present ruin consists of the remains of structures very much older than the early part or middle of the sixteenth century ; indeed some of them would appear to be as old as the twelfth century, and there are remains of walls of great thickness, built with rubble masonry, and grouted, extending even beyond the confines of the present ruin to the north-west. The modern additions all exist on the opposite side, and their later date is at once manifest. Four of the chimneys, three of which are in the eastern front, have sixteen sides, and are like some of the chimneys of English castles, built about the year 1530, being beautifully wrought and moulded at top. Owing to the various additions at different ages, the plan of Carbury Castle is very irregular, and its history, which will be found somewhat farther on in this chapter, will in some measure account for the various erections manifested in the ruins. A short distance from the castle we find a modern burial-ground, chiefly occupied with the remains of members of the Pomeroy family.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 26

19. Ruined Fortress at Castletown Crossroads

    Castletown · townland · Meath

    Near Riverstown, at the cross-roads of Castletown, travellers encounter another ruined fortress before beginning the ascent of Tara.

    Read the passage

    Ketracing our steps for a short way from Rivers town, we meet another ruined fortress at the cross-roads of Castletown, and now we commence the ascent of Tara by the ancient road leading to the north, the Slighe Fan na g- Carbad, or Slope of the Chariots, which has been mentioned in the old topographical descriptions of this renowned locality. The first object which demands attention is the Teach 3fiodhchuarta, or great Banqueting Hall, the chief monument of all, which runs north and south, a deep excavation, with parallel sides, rising up a gentle ascent of the hill, 360 feet long, and 40 wide, the sides being formed by a raised mur, or earth embankment, in which a number of excavations or gaps may be observed, corresponding to the doors which led into the great hall, " the house of the thousand soldiers," the locality where the Feis Teamhrach, or solemn assembly of Tara, was held. Standing at the top or southern extremity of this remain, and bearing in mind the various prose and bardic histories of the Irish annalists, one cannot help reverting to ancient heroic times, and again, in imagination, peopling it with its early occupants. Here sat in days of yore kings with golden crowns upon their heads; warriors Avith brazen swords in their hands; bards and minstrels with their harps ; grey-bearded ollamhs; druids with their oakleaf crowns ; learned historians ; wise brehons and subtle lawyers; the physicians; the smiths, artificers, charioteers, huntsmen, architects; the chess-players and cup-bearers, together with crowds of servants and retainers, whose places are all specified in the ancient annals relating to Tara.* Sneer not at the Irishman's veneration for this spot ; the history of its "long-faded glories" is still preserved; the memories of Tara have remained a silver thread in the garment of sackcloth he has worn for centuries.

    * We wish our space permitted of our introducing here some of the poems of the Book of Rights, describing the feasts at Teamhair, lately published by the Irish Celtic Society. It should be consulted by every visitor to Tara.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 76

20. Similar Templar remains found at Kilmainham

    Kilmainham · townland · Dublin

    Remains similar to those found at Larne, apparently belonging to a Templar, were discovered not long before at Kilmainham.

    Read the passage

    At Larne, in the covmty of Antrim, a skeleton was lately discovered, which, from the iron sword and other Aveapons in connexion with it, appeared to have been that of a Templar ; and similar remains were not long since discovered at Kilmainham. This Templar's skull, found at Larne, although it has an Irish physiognomy, and a Firbolg form of head, cannot be dated back farther than the eleventh or twelfth century.

    Wehavetwo instances recorded of human remains found in the bugs of Ireland; one of these, the mummy of which is now in the Koyal Dublin Society House, was discovei'ed in a bog, nine or ten feet beneath the surface. When first exhumed the body Avas perfectly fresh, and enclosed in a dress not unlike that in the description given of Gurth in Ivanhoe, — consistingof a tunic of cow-hide, apparently tanned, but with some remains of hair still preserved on the side Avorn next the skin. This dress is joined ixi the most accurate and beautiful manner, exhibiting an extraordinary perfection in the art of scAving. The hair on the head, A\diich is both long and fine, is of a dark broAvn colour, and the skull is compressed in a remarkable manner, owing to a portion of the earthy matter having been removed by the acid of the bog. The body of a man was found under precisely similar circumstances by Mr. R. C. Walker, but it is evidently of more recent date, perhaps not older than the time of Elizabeth ; for the dress, Avhich is of Avoollen texture, and still quite perfect, is precisely that represented in Walker's Irish Bards.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 142

21. Sitric and the Danes ravage Kells

    Kells · town · Meath

    Sitric and the Danes of Dublin are recorded as having made havoc in Kells, an event tied to the town's monastic history.

    Read the passage

    Sitric and the Danes of Dublin make havoc in Kells, 149.

    Skreen, hill of, 120.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    Kells here in Meath has a long monastic history, and it took a hard blow when Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made havoc in the town.

22. St. Patrick and King Loeghaire legend

    Slane · townland · Meath

    A legend concerning St. Patrick and King Loeghaire is referenced, tied to the site associated with their historic encounter.

    Read the passage

    St. Patrick and King Loeghaire, legend of, 153, 154.

    Stackallan, 169.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in Slane, a legend of St. Patrick and King Loeghaire is recorded in The Beauties of the Boyne. The book gives the tale on its pages 153 and 154, but says nothing more of what passed between them.

23. Templar skeleton found at Larne

    near Larne · town · Antrim

    The index records that the skeleton of a Templar was found at Larne, an antiquarian discovery tied to the site.

    Read the passage

    Templar, skeleton of a, found at Larne, 237.

    Temple Doath, or Caille, old church of, 29.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 181

24. Urn collection at Loughanmore, County Antrim

    Annesbrook or Loughanmore · site · Meath

    A similar collection of urns to those at the Hill of Rath was found at Loughanmore in County Antrim and was described by the same investigator, J. Huband Smith.

    Read the passage

    * It is said that a thin scale of copper was also found in one of the urns ; but we think that the way in which this got there is very questionable, and by no means proves that the people Avlio placed these urns in this ancient burialplace liad any ac(|uaintance Avith the use of metals. A somewhat similar collection of urns, occurring at Loughanmore, in the county of Antrim, has been described by the same gentleman, but the description of the former Avill here sullice. Why docs not some industrious unti(piary write a paper on our Irish urns y The materials for it are most abundant.

    234 TUK MIXICD FOKM OF IRISH SEPULTUKE.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 141

25. Yellow Steeple of Trim

    Trim · town · Meath

    The Yellow Steeple at Trim is recorded as a notable monument of the town, referenced multiple times in the index.

    Read the passage

    Yellow Island, 244. Yellow River, 21, 41. Yellow Steeple, Trim, 83, 84.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 181

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Trim, the Yellow Steeple stands as a noted monument of the town. The book marks it twice, though it tells us no more than that it drew the writer's eye here.

26. Bective hamlet gives title to the Earl of Bective

    Bective · townland · Meath

    A small hamlet near the bridge takes the name of Bective, and the Taylor family derive their title of Earl from this locality.

    Read the passage

    There is a small hamlet near the bridge to Avhich the name of Bective is given ; and the family of Taylor derive the title of Earl from this locality.

    From Bective to Navan the Boyne sweeps gracefully through a highly cultivated country ; and its banks are adorned, throughout the entire length of this portion of its course, by the grounds and plantations of noble parks and demesnes, as those of Balsoon, Bective, Bellinter, Dowdstown, and Ardsallagh. The banks are not high or abrupt, but form pleasing

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a small hamlet near the bridge gave its name to Bective, and the Taylor family took their title of Earl from this place. From here to Navan the Boyne runs through rich farmland, with grounds and plantations along its banks at places like Balsoon, Bellinter, Dowdstown, and Ardsallagh. The banks are not high but slope gently, giving the river a pleasing look as it winds through the demesnes.

27. Boyne bridge near Edenderry

    Edenderry · town · Offaly

    Not far from Edenderry, the young Boyne river is crossed by Boyne bridge, which carries the road from that town to Clonard.

    Read the passage

    it enters Mcath, the rivulet bearing the local name of the Blackwater, from Kildare, and the Kinnegad and Deel rivers, from Westmeath. Below Ashford it is crossed, at the Boyne aqueduct, by the lloyal Canal and the Midland Great Western Railway, and from this point to a few miles above Drogheda it traverses the fertile plains of Meath, which county it divides into nearly equal parts. Passing onward in the same easy course, it reaches the celebrated town of Trim, and then Navan, where it receives the Blackwater from Cavan, which is there nearly as large as the Boyne itself, and, flowing onward by Slane to the borders of the south of Louth, near Oldbridge, the Mattock River empties itself into it a short distance above Drogheda.. It enters the Irish Channel below that town by a broad, shallow estuary, having the county of Louth on its left or northern bank, and that of Meath on the right or southern. Following its various windings, from its source to the sea, opposite to the Maiden Tower below Drogheda, it measures about seventy miles on the Ordnance Map, and its general direction is from south-west to north-east. While the river pursues its sluggish and circuitous course through the county in which it rises, and also where it borders a small angle of the King's County, it is but an insignificant stream, interesting alone from the remains which still exist upon its banks. Not far from Edenderry it is crossed by Boyne bridge, bearing the road from that town to Clonard. iSome gentlemen's seats also diversify the landscape, but, generally speaking, the stream is, in Kildare, very insignificant, and the country through which it passes low and marshy, yet, both in this county, as well as in the upper portion of Meath, the Boyne is remarkably tortuous in its course, and constantly broken with islands, a peculiarity not uncommon to rivers running through so flat and monotonous a country as this. It is to the last stages alone that the description, which we have already attempted, of its scenic beauty, applies. Looking at the course of the river on the map, it will be seen that it forms a segment of a circle, and, taken with the Blackwater, it makes the shape of the letter Y.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 23

28. Duleek worth a couple of hours' examination

    Duleek · town · Meath

    Duleek, reached by crossing down from Donore by the hill of Cruzrath, is described as well worthy of a couple of hours' examination by antiquarian tourists.

    Read the passage

    We would ad\nse those desirous of making a careful examination of the battle-field, and going over the ground contested on the 1st of July, 1690, to go up the river to Oldbridge by boat from Drogheda, which can be easily effected if the tide is in, or to have a boat in waiting there ; and, ha\'ing examined the site of the English position on the south side of the Boyne, to cross over opposite the Obelisk, where a car from Drogheda should be in readiness. Then proceed up the hill, through the battle-field, to Donore, or, as the people here call it, " Done Over" from the ruined church of which the position of the Irish army can be best seen, and a tolerably accurate idea formed of the skirmishing ground near Rosnaree. From Donore cross down to Duleek by the hill to Cruzrath. Duleek is well worthy of a couple of hours' examination. Next proceed up the hill to Bellewstown, and from this by the Naul to Balbriggan, to meet one of the evening trains to Dublin.

    To devote a day to the examination of the great cemetery of Brugh-na- Boinne, the tourist should proceed by rail to Slane, hire a car there, and visit in succession Knowth, New Grange, Dowth, and Netterville, and then, crossing over to Jlonknewtown, get back to Drogheda in time for the evening train. Fraser's admirable "Hand-Book for Travellers in Ireland," and the Monthly Time Bills of the railways, will be found of great service.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12

29. Earthen fort at Ballycowan on the Boyne

    Ballycowan · townland · Kildare

    A circular earthen fort of the military class, dating from before stone buildings were common, can be seen on the south-eastern shore of the Boyne in the townland of Ballycowan, near the high road.

    Read the passage

    against the northern Avail, Avhich was in a falling condition some years ago. The prospect from the abbey, though tame, is particularly pleasing. Looking up the Boyne upon the Kildare side, the planting of Rahin demesne stretches along a gentle elevation which slopes gradually from the river's edge, and the country rises in successive undulations to the woods of Ballindoolin and the hill of Carrick, while toward the west we get a glimpse of the hill of Croghan, in the King's County. Our next point of interest is Clonard, to which two roads, one on each side of the Boyne, lead from the bridge of Ballybogan. The southern will be found most interesting to the tourist, as it passes through a pleasingly-diversified country, not remarkable either for its cultivation or its amount of population,— which is here, indeed, particularly thin, — but for the number, variety, and graceful form of the swelling imdulations through which we pass. To this part of the country may be applied the simile which has been elsewhere used with respect to Tipperary, that it resembles a swollen sea which had become suddenly consolidated. A circular earthen fort, of the military class, belonging to the times before stone buildings were much in use, may be seen upon the south-eastern shore of the Boyne, in the townland of Ballycowan, not far from the high road, and can be visited by those who feel particularly interested in the examination of such remains ; but as we shall direct attention to other similar structures, of greater magnitude and more accessible, upon the lower portions of the river, it is here unnecessary to do more than point out its site.

    55

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 39

30. Lady Well near the Hermitage, now obliterated

    near Lady Well · well · Limerick

    Not far from the Hermitage of St. Erc was Lady Well, though by the time of writing it was nearly obliterated, with only a carved ecclesiastical effigy remaining in the castle pleasure-ground wall.

    Read the passage

    Not far distant from the Hermitage was Lady Well, but it is now nearly obliterated; and in the wall of the pleasureground of the castle may be seen the carved effigy of an ecclesiastic, probably a bishop : and below, a little to the right of the bridge of Slane, stands the old church and ruined castle of Fennor, but they do not possess sufficient interest to require minute examination.

    Let us pass under the handsome gate of Slane demesne, through the neat little town adjoining, where, at its comfortable hotel, we may enjoy as bright and generous a glass of claret, and receive as good cheer, as at any similar establishment with which we are acquainted; and then climb the hill which rises immediately over the town. On the western brow of the hill stands a noble circular, entrenched rath, possibly the seat of the palace of the monarch from Avhom its present name is derived. "We are now upon the wooded height which so frequently caught our eye as we passed down the Boyne, and upon the spot so

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 108

31. Rath Caelchon and Rath-Grainne near Tara

    Tara · parish · Meath

    In the field adjoining the Banqueting Hall lie Rath Caelchon and two circular duns, one called Rath-Grainne, along with the nearly vanished small well of Tober Finn.

    Read the passage

    In the adjoining field is Rath Caelchon, and beyond it are the remains of two circular duns, but greatly obliterated by plantations; one of these is Rath-Grainne., and the other, together with the small well of Tober Finn, are now scarcely perceptible ; none of these, however, are of sufficient importance to require particular notice in a popular description like the present.

    Ascending the slope towards the south we gain the top of the hill, crowned by the Rath-na-Seanad/i, the Rath of the Synods, or the King's Chair, where it is said the tent of Adamnan was pitched, presenting a double wall of circumvallation, the eastern side of which has been cut off by the adjoining churchyard. Upon this rath in particular, it is more than probable, some of the synods at Tara, in Christian times, were held. It is the highest spot upon the hill, being 512 feet above the level of the sea. The two beautiful gold torques, preserved in the collection of the Eoyal Irish Academy, were found by a boy in the side of this hill some years ago. Immediately adjoining this elevation stands the modern church, the decorated western window of which was removed from the ruins of an ancient ecclesiastical building which existed here within the present century.* Within the enclosure of the surrounding churchyard we find some objects of antiquarian interest, especially a flat pillar-stone about six feet high, supposed to be the shaft of the cross of St, Adamnan, on the eastern face of which is carved, in relief, a rude human figure, about eighteen inches high.f In its vicinity we find a short

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 77

32. Rathcore as a battle-field

    Rathcore · townland · Meath

    Rathcore is identified as a historic battle-field, with references to this locality appearing in the Annals of the Four Masters.

    Read the passage

    Rathcore, the battle-field of, 74 ; references to this locality in the Annals of the Four Blasters, 74, 75.

    Rathmore, old church of, 147, note.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

33. Ruins of Newtown near Trim

    Newtown · townland · Meath

    Following the Boyne down from Trim, the tourist crosses the river to visit the ruins of Newtown, about a mile distant, before returning to the right bank.

    Read the passage

    To follow the route in detail from Trim dowuAvard, the most pleasing points of view will be gained by proceeding on the right bank of the river, then crossing over to visit the ruins of Newtown, about a mile distant, letuming to the right bank, and proceeding to Scurlogstown, Trubly, and the Bridge of

    * In this neighbourhood, and about Navan, distances arc still counted in Irish miles.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

34. Skull found near Dunamase

    Park or Dunamase · townland · Laois

    A skull of the globular-headed race was found near Dunamase, cited among specimens supporting the theory of two distinct ancient races in Ireland.

    Read the passage

    Skulls, ancient, found near Kinnafad, described, 40 ; belonging to two distinct races, 41 ; two distinct forms of, found also in Scandinavian sepulchres, 226-228 ; skulls of the long-headed race, 229 ; specimens found in a tumulus near Denley in England, and in ancient Etruscan tombs, 230 ; of the globular -headed race, 231; specimen found near Dunamase, 232; one found beneath the round tower of Drumbo, 236 ; of Donatus, first Danish Archbishop of Dublin, 237.

    Slane, view from the hill of, with its associations, 179, 180; St. Patrick's arrival at, 180 ; destruction of the cloictheach or round tower of, 181 ; ancient tomb, 182 ; ruins of thechmxh and monastery of, 188.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Park or Dunamase, a human skull was found that belonged to what old writers called the globular-headed race. It was one of several specimens from across Ireland and beyond that scholars used to argue there were two distinct ancient races here, the long-headed and the globular-headed. Similar skulls turned up in Scandinavian burial mounds and Etruscan tombs, and the theory linked them all together.

35. Ancient weapons found near Kinnafad

    Kinnafad · townland · Kildare

    Ancient weapons were found near Kinnafad and are described in the text, with conjectures made as to the races who used them.

    Read the passage

    Weapons, ancient, found near Kinnafad, described, 38, 39 ; coiijocturcs as to

    the races who used them, 40. Well of the Holy Cross, 45. Wells, holy. See Holy Wells. Wellesley family, pedigree of, 31, 32, note. Wellington, Duke of, his birth place, 95 ; his early daj'S in connexion with

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 181

36. Episcopal chair moved from Clonard to Newtown

    Newtown · townland · Meath

    Simon de Rochfort, Bishop of Meath, removed the episcopal chair from Clonard to Newtown, a significant shift in ecclesiastical administration.

    Read the passage

    Rochfort, Simon de, Bishop of Meath, removes the episcopal chair from CIonard to Newtown, 62 ; his power, 98.

    Roofing, peculiar form of, found in early buildings in Ireland, similar to that of ancient structures in various parts of the world, 166.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

37. Mylerstown church and castle near Carbery

    Mylerstown · townland · Kildare

    Between Johnstown and Carbery, the road passes Mylerstown church and castle, situated about a mile to the right of the road.

    Read the passage

    The most ready mode of access to the Boyne's source, at Carbery, in the county of Kildare, is to proceed from the Broadstone, Dublin, in one of the early morning trains which starts by the Midland Great Western Eailway, to Enfield, which can be reached in about an hour and a half. Hei-e outside jaunting-cars can be hired at the rate of sixpence per mile for two persons, or one can be hired for the day, or by the job. From seven shillings and sixpence to ten shillings per day, with a douceur to the driver, will generally satisfy, but in eveiy instance a special bargain should be made with the carman before starting. The tourist should first proceed to Carbery, distant about six miles, where the hill and Castle of Carbery should be visited, and afterwards the source of the Boj^ne, at Trinity Well, in the adjoining demesne of Newbery. About a mile and a half from Enfield, the Edenderry road through Carbery crosses the Blackwater rivulet, one of the tributaries of the Boyne ; then the neat little village of Johnstown, and between that and Carbery we pass Mylerstown church and castle, about a mile to the right of the road. This latter

    c

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 10

38. St. Finian's Lost Monastery of Escair-branain

    Ardsallagh · townland · Meath

    Near Ardsallagh, tradition records that St. Finian founded the monastery of Escair-branain, though the site of that ancient edifice is now unknown.

    Read the passage

    Duke of Bedford, who has recently erected here a handsome Elizabethan mansion, in which report whispers he will annually spend some time. In no part of its course does the river present the same extreme calmness and repose as here. Widening into deep, still pools, shaded by aged timber, and fringed with wild plants of gigantic growth, huge colts-foot; with the modest blue forget-me-not and the little yellow potentilla peeping through their dark umbrageous foliage; long, topling bulrushes, fragrant meadow-sweet, and broad waterlilies, stretch in wild luxuriance along the placid banks. Long avenues of lime trees, and groves of tall grey- stemmed beeches with arcades of aged yew, give an air of antiquity as well as grandeur to this handsome park. One almost always expects to meet some remnant of ecclesiastical buildings where aged yew trees abound, and accordingly we read that St. Finian founded the monastery of Escair-branain near this, but at present even the site of that ancient edifice is unknown.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, tradition says St. Finian founded the monastery of Escair-branain, but the site of that ancient building is now lost. The record comes from a time when aged yew trees still lined this stretch of the river, and the writer noted that one almost always expects to find ecclesiastical ruins where old yews grow. No trace of the monastery survives today. The river here was noted for its deep, still pools and wild banks of water lilies and bulrushes, with groves of beech and avenues of lime giving the place an air of antiquity. The Duke of Bedford had recently built a handsome Elizabethan mansion in the park, and report had it he would spend time there each year.

39. Donaghmore church and round tower

    Donaghmore · townland · Meath

    Near Navan, on the left bank of the river, stands Donaghmore church with its round tower, recommended as a stop before proceeding toward Slane.

    Read the passage

    From Navan to Slane we have again a choice of roads : the most advisable plan will, however, be found to visit Donaghmore church and round tower, which is about a mile from Navan, on the left bank of the river, and then, returning to Navan, either procure a boat to proceed to Slane, or walk along the rampart or track-way of the canal. If neither of these two latter modes are feasible, Slane, being distant from Navan about six Irish miles, may be reached by either the eastern or western road ; upon the former we have Anlmulchan and Beauparc, and upon the latter, Donaghmore, Dunmoe, Stackallan, Baroustown, and Slane demesne. A narrow by-road, about three-quarters of

    XXviii ITINERARY.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12

40. Dowdall's wayside cross in Duleek village street

    Duleek · town · Meath

    A slender way-side stone cross stands in the street of Duleek village, erected by a member of the Dowdall family, similar to another cross near Stackallan, and inscribed as built by Jenet Dowdall.

    Read the passage

    '■'■ THIS CROSS WAS BUILDED BY JENET DOWDALL, WIFE TO

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 159

41. Lieutenant Tyrrell's gallant defence in 1798

    Trim · town · Meath · 1798

    Lieutenant Tyrrell made a gallant defence against a superior force in 1798, an event of the rebellion recorded in the index in connection with a specific place.

    Read the passage

    Tyrrell, Lieut., his gallant defence against a superior force in 1798, 56, 57.

    Urns, ancient, found in Ireland, 232. Virginia, town of, 138.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 181

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up is Trim, a town in Meath with a footnote from 1798. During the rebellion that year, Lieutenant Tyrrell made a gallant defence here against a superior force. The record gives no further detail of the fight, only that it happened.

42. Lost castle foundations in Ardkill parish

    Ardkill · townland · Kildare

    In the parish of Ardkill, about a mile from Carbery village, the foundations of another castle remain, though even its name has been lost.

    Read the passage

    of Ardkill, about a mile from the adjoining village of Carbery, the foundations of another castle, of which not even the name now remains; and the site of another fortress is pointed out near the mill in the parish of Clonkcen, midway to Edenderry : all showing the military importance of this district in former times. Edenderry, and the castles of Kinnafad and Carrick, form prominent objects as the eye sweeps round from south to west. Although the Boyne is said to rise at Trinity Well, a small stream which empties itself into it, and which may be considered the true source of the river, rises in an adjoining bog or marshy ground to the north of Carbury, — a branch of the great bog of Allen which extends towards the east, — and creej)- ing round the base of the hill to the neighbouring demesne of Newberry, passes under a small bridge upon the Enfield road, as we enter the little village of Carbery adjoining.

    As it would be impossible (even did it possess sufficient interest) to follow the various windings of the infant Boyne from its source to Clonard, where the stream enlarges sufficiently to permit of navigation for small row-boats, we must take to the road, and avail ourselves of as many Avay-side points of interest as the ordinary modes of travelling permit.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 29

43. Old church and ruined castle of Fennor near Slane bridge

    Fennor · townland · Meath

    Below the Hermitage, a little to the right of Slane bridge, stand the old church and ruined castle of Fennor, though the author notes they hold little interest for detailed examination.

    Read the passage

    Not far distant from the Hermitage was Lady Well, but it is now nearly obliterated; and in the wall of the pleasureground of the castle may be seen the carved effigy of an ecclesiastic, probably a bishop : and below, a little to the right of the bridge of Slane, stands the old church and ruined castle of Fennor, but they do not possess sufficient interest to require minute examination.

    Let us pass under the handsome gate of Slane demesne, through the neat little town adjoining, where, at its comfortable hotel, we may enjoy as bright and generous a glass of claret, and receive as good cheer, as at any similar establishment with which we are acquainted; and then climb the hill which rises immediately over the town. On the western brow of the hill stands a noble circular, entrenched rath, possibly the seat of the palace of the monarch from Avhom its present name is derived. "We are now upon the wooded height which so frequently caught our eye as we passed down the Boyne, and upon the spot so

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 108

44. View of Athlumney Castle

    Athlumney · townland · Meath

    Proceeding to Navan on the right bank of the river gives one of the best views of Athlumney Castle.

    Read the passage

    Bectivo, distant from Trim four miles and a half, and from Navan three and a half miles. Here we cross to the left bank, and having seen the Abbey, proceed upon the same side to visit Clady, which is not a mile distant, and returning by the same route to Bective Bridge, follow the road upon the right bank to Rivei'stown Castle, and thence ascend the hill of Tara, which being seen, it will be found most advisable to proceed to the bridge of Bellinter, and cross over to the left bank, and then, passing through the demesne of Ardsalla, visit Cannistown. We next cross the Boyne at Athcarne Bridge, in order to see the font at Johnstown, described at page 130, about half a mile distant. It is then optional to proceed to Navan by the road upon the right bank of the river, by which one of the best views of Athlumney Castle can be gained, or to return again to Athcarne Bridge.

    At Navan the tourist will decide whether he visits the Blackwater then, or makes a separate excursion to it afterwards. Cars can be hired to proceed by Kells to Virginia. The tourist will find it best in so doing to proceed up the river by Liscarton Castle, upon the left bank, to Kells, where the coach-road crosses to the right bank, and, having visited St. Kieran's church and well at Castlekieran, the most distant point of interest upon the Blackwater, and to return by Teltown, Donaghpatrick, and Rathaldron, to Navan, by the left or northern road. Coaches, however, proceed daily to Kells and Virginia, at both of which places cars can be procured to return to Navan. The examination of the Blackwater, by any of these means, will occupy an entire day. Tourists can leave Dublin by one of the early trains and go by Drogheda to Navan, from whence public conveyances proceed by Kells to Virginia ; or cars can be hired at either of these places to visit the Blackwater, and return in time to catch the up-trains from Navan to Dublin.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Athlumney, you are on the road that the old guidebook calls the best way to see the castle. The writer says that if you take the right bank of the river heading toward Navan, you get one of the finest views of Athlumney Castle from this route. That is all he tells us about the castle itself. He is more interested in the roads, and spends his time laying out which bridge to cross and which bank to follow. The castle stands here, but the book gives no date, no owner, no story. What it does give is this road and this view.

45. Ancient tomb in Slane churchyard

    Slane · townland · Meath

    The index notes an ancient tomb located in the churchyard of Slane, a locatable burial monument.

    Read the passage

    Tomb, ancient, in the churchyard of Slane, 182.

    Tomb-openers, advice to, 240.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 181

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Slane, there's an ancient tomb in the churchyard. That's about all the old record tells us, though the book also offers advice to tomb-openers elsewhere in its pages.

46. Fortress site near mill in Clonkeen parish

    Clonkeen · townland · Kildare

    The site of another fortress is pointed out near the mill in the parish of Clonkeen, midway between Carbery and Edenderry, testifying to the district's former military importance.

    Read the passage

    of Ardkill, about a mile from the adjoining village of Carbery, the foundations of another castle, of which not even the name now remains; and the site of another fortress is pointed out near the mill in the parish of Clonkcen, midway to Edenderry : all showing the military importance of this district in former times. Edenderry, and the castles of Kinnafad and Carrick, form prominent objects as the eye sweeps round from south to west. Although the Boyne is said to rise at Trinity Well, a small stream which empties itself into it, and which may be considered the true source of the river, rises in an adjoining bog or marshy ground to the north of Carbury, — a branch of the great bog of Allen which extends towards the east, — and creej)- ing round the base of the hill to the neighbouring demesne of Newberry, passes under a small bridge upon the Enfield road, as we enter the little village of Carbery adjoining.

    As it would be impossible (even did it possess sufficient interest) to follow the various windings of the infant Boyne from its source to Clonard, where the stream enlarges sufficiently to permit of navigation for small row-boats, we must take to the road, and avail ourselves of as many Avay-side points of interest as the ordinary modes of travelling permit.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 29

47. Sepulchral mounds at Clonard, Laracor and Scurlogstown

    Clonard · town · Meath

    Sepulchral mounds are recorded at several sites including Clonard, Laracor, Scurlogstown, and between Trubly and Bective, indicating ancient burial activity across these locations.

    Read the passage

    Sepulchral mounds at Clonard, 68; at Laracor, 97; at Scurlogstown, 103; between Trubly and Bective, 107.

    Sepulchres of Irish kings, 186.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clonard, you're in country where ancient burial mounds once marked the landscape. Records note sepulchral mounds here, and at Laracor, Scurlogstown, and between Trubly and Bective. These were described as the sepulchres of Irish kings.

48. New Grange compared to Stonehenge

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    New Grange's plan is noted as resembling that of Stonehenge, drawing a comparative link between the two ancient monuments.

    Read the passage

    Stonehenge, resemblance of New Grange to, in its plan, 203.

    Stony ford bridge, 76.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

49. Riverstown Castle and the Hill of Tara

    near Tara · hill or hills · Meath

    The itinerary follows the road on the right bank to Riverstown Castle, and from there ascends the Hill of Tara, a key point of interest on the route.

    Read the passage

    Bectivo, distant from Trim four miles and a half, and from Navan three and a half miles. Here we cross to the left bank, and having seen the Abbey, proceed upon the same side to visit Clady, which is not a mile distant, and returning by the same route to Bective Bridge, follow the road upon the right bank to Rivei'stown Castle, and thence ascend the hill of Tara, which being seen, it will be found most advisable to proceed to the bridge of Bellinter, and cross over to the left bank, and then, passing through the demesne of Ardsalla, visit Cannistown. We next cross the Boyne at Athcarne Bridge, in order to see the font at Johnstown, described at page 130, about half a mile distant. It is then optional to proceed to Navan by the road upon the right bank of the river, by which one of the best views of Athlumney Castle can be gained, or to return again to Athcarne Bridge.

    At Navan the tourist will decide whether he visits the Blackwater then, or makes a separate excursion to it afterwards. Cars can be hired to proceed by Kells to Virginia. The tourist will find it best in so doing to proceed up the river by Liscarton Castle, upon the left bank, to Kells, where the coach-road crosses to the right bank, and, having visited St. Kieran's church and well at Castlekieran, the most distant point of interest upon the Blackwater, and to return by Teltown, Donaghpatrick, and Rathaldron, to Navan, by the left or northern road. Coaches, however, proceed daily to Kells and Virginia, at both of which places cars can be procured to return to Navan. The examination of the Blackwater, by any of these means, will occupy an entire day. Tourists can leave Dublin by one of the early trains and go by Drogheda to Navan, from whence public conveyances proceed by Kells to Virginia ; or cars can be hired at either of these places to visit the Blackwater, and return in time to catch the up-trains from Navan to Dublin.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12

50. Pillar-stones surrounding New Grange

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    The index notes the presence of pillar-stones around New Grange, part of the monument's ancient stone arrangement.

    Read the passage

    121, 125. Pillar-stones, the use of, 186. Pillar-stones around New Grange, 190, 210. Pomeroy family, burial place of the, 28. ProudfootstoAvn castle, 242.

    Races, two, of the ancient Irish, distinguished by the form of their heads, 41, 239; modern instances of the same distinction, 231; skulls of the longheaded race, 229, 230; of the globular-headed race, 231, 232.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

51. Rathnally's peculiar beauties

    Rathnally · townland · Meath

    The peculiar beauties of Rathnally are pointed out in the text as a notable landscape feature along the river.

    Read the passage

    Rathnally, peculiar beauties of, pointed out, 105.

    Retzius, Professor A., researches regarding the races whose remains are found in ancient Scandinavian sepulchral monuments, 226.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the book "The Beauties of the Boyne" singles out the peculiar beauties of Rathnally. That is all the record gives, a pointer to this spot along the river. No further detail survives in the page reference.

52. Bective Abbey's Irish name

    Bective · townland · Meath

    Bective Abbey's name in Irish was Sendrede, a detail linking the monastic site to its native-language nomenclature.

    Read the passage

    Sendrede, name of Bective Abbey in Irish, 100.

    Sepulchral mounds at Clonard, 68; at Laracor, 97; at Scurlogstown, 103; between Trubly and Bective, 107.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Bective, you have the abbey whose Irish name was Sendrede. That single detail is all the old record leaves us with here, connecting the monastic site to its native-language name.

53. Silver mine remains near Edenderry

    Edenderry · town · Offaly

    The index notes the remains of an ancient silver mine located near Edenderry.

    Read the passage

    Silver mine, remains of a, near Edenderry, 34.

    Sitric and the Danes of Dublin make havoc in Kells, 149.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

54. The font at Johnstown

    Johnstown · townland · Meath

    After crossing the Boyne at Athcarne Bridge, tourists could see the font at Johnstown, about half a mile distant, previously described elsewhere in the book.

    Read the passage

    Bectivo, distant from Trim four miles and a half, and from Navan three and a half miles. Here we cross to the left bank, and having seen the Abbey, proceed upon the same side to visit Clady, which is not a mile distant, and returning by the same route to Bective Bridge, follow the road upon the right bank to Rivei'stown Castle, and thence ascend the hill of Tara, which being seen, it will be found most advisable to proceed to the bridge of Bellinter, and cross over to the left bank, and then, passing through the demesne of Ardsalla, visit Cannistown. We next cross the Boyne at Athcarne Bridge, in order to see the font at Johnstown, described at page 130, about half a mile distant. It is then optional to proceed to Navan by the road upon the right bank of the river, by which one of the best views of Athlumney Castle can be gained, or to return again to Athcarne Bridge.

    At Navan the tourist will decide whether he visits the Blackwater then, or makes a separate excursion to it afterwards. Cars can be hired to proceed by Kells to Virginia. The tourist will find it best in so doing to proceed up the river by Liscarton Castle, upon the left bank, to Kells, where the coach-road crosses to the right bank, and, having visited St. Kieran's church and well at Castlekieran, the most distant point of interest upon the Blackwater, and to return by Teltown, Donaghpatrick, and Rathaldron, to Navan, by the left or northern road. Coaches, however, proceed daily to Kells and Virginia, at both of which places cars can be procured to return to Navan. The examination of the Blackwater, by any of these means, will occupy an entire day. Tourists can leave Dublin by one of the early trains and go by Drogheda to Navan, from whence public conveyances proceed by Kells to Virginia ; or cars can be hired at either of these places to visit the Blackwater, and return in time to catch the up-trains from Navan to Dublin.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12