Highways and byways in Donegal and Antrim;

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Apprentice Boys shut the gates of Derry

   near Derry · city · Derry · 1688

   In December 1688, thirteen apprentice boys seized the keys of Derry, drew the bridge, and locked Ferryquay Gate against Lord Antrim's advancing regiment. This action saved the city for the Protestant cause during the Williamite war.

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   carried out through his viceroy Tyrconnell, to have secured Catholic ascendency throughout Ireland. But, as Walker puts it in his story of the siege, " it pleased God so to infatuate the councils of my lord Tyrconnell " that he withdrew the soldiers who were in actual possession of Derry. Lord Antrim's regiment which was ordered to replace them was not ready, and did not reach its destination on the east bank of the Foyle till December 7th. Word had come to the aldermen of " some damnable design against the British of those parts," and the aldermen, after their fashion, deliberated. Two of Antrim's officers had crossed the Foyle, and were admitted within the gates to a parley. But in the meanwhile a company of the regiment had been ferried over and were marching on Ferryquay Gate (just south of the Diamond). The town was in a ferment and thirteen apprentice boys "drew their swords, ran to the main-guard, seized the keys without any great opposition, and came with them to the Ferry gate drew the bridge and locked the gate, the Irish soldiers having advanced within sixty yards of it." They then hastened to secure the other gates, and this action of theirs undoubtedly saved Derry to the Protestant cause. Lord Antrim's regiment drew off. At this time, according to Mackenzie's contemporary narrative, the whole number of fighting men in the town amounted to 300. But the next three months were full of events and the war of religions which spread through Ireland concentrated the Protestants of the north upon their sole surviving fortress. From Coleraine to LifTord they nocked in, until at the beginning of the siege the walls enclosed nearly 30,000 people.

   Ten thousand of these availed themselves of the permission to leave, and of those who remained nearly 8,000 were soldiers ; men with the virtues and confidence natural, as Macaulay points out, to a dominant caste. But Macaulay's dramatic story is apt to give the impression that the defenders of Derry were merely the citizens, men unused to warfare, stimulated to

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 143

   As the companion tells it

   This is Derry, the city whose walls held against a king's army. In December 1688, the Protestant cause in Ireland was near collapse. James II, through his viceroy Tyrconnell, was moving to secure Catholic ascendancy throughout the country. But as Walker puts it in his story of the siege, it pleased God so to infatuate the councils of my lord Tyrconnell that he withdrew the soldiers who were in actual possession of Derry. Lord Antrim's regiment was ordered to replace them, but it was not ready and did not reach the east bank of the Foyle until December 7. Word had come to the aldermen of some damnable design against the British of those parts, and the aldermen deliberated, after their fashion. Two of Antrim's officers crossed the Foyle and were admitted within the gates to a parley. Meanwhile, a company of the regiment had been ferried over and was marching on Ferryquay Gate, just south of the Diamond. The town was in a ferment. Thirteen apprentice boys drew their swords, ran to the main-guard, seized the keys without any great opposition, and came with them to the Ferry gate, drew the bridge and locked the gate, the Irish soldiers having advanced within sixty yards of it. They then hastened to secure the other gates. Lord Antrim's regiment drew off. According to Mackenzie's contemporary narrative, the whole number of fighting men in the town at this time amounted to 300. Over the next three months, the war of religions spread through Ireland, and Protestants of the north concentrated upon their sole surviving fortress. From Coleraine to Lifford they flocked in, until at the beginning of the siege the walls enclosed nearly 30,000 people. Ten thousand availed themselves of permission to leave, and of those who remained nearly 8,000 were soldiers.

2. Murder of Shane O'Neill near Cushendun

   Cushendun · townland · Antrim · 1567

   Shane O'Neill, fleeing after defeat by the O'Donnells, sought out the Macdonnells encamped on the hill slope north-west of Cushendun. After two days' banqueting, a quarrel erupted over his secretary's claim that Shane meant to marry James Macdonnell's widow, and the Macdonnells hacked Shane to pieces with dirks.

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   English for his overthrow. He had thoughts at first of going to the Lord Deputy at Dundalk with a halter round his neck ; but he bethought him of Sorley Boy and offered freedom and friendship to the chief of the Ulster Scots. At Sorley's advice, as it would seem, he arranged to meet Alexander Og Macdonnell, a surviving brother, who with his levies was encamped on the hill slope north-west of Cushendun. Here Shane came bringing Sorley with , him, and whether the Macdonnells meant fairly by him or no it would be hard to say. There were two days' banqueting, and in the revels Shane's secretary made a rash speech. Shane, he said, was of a mind to marry James MacdonnelPs wife, whom he still kept in his power, and the lady was willing. The Macdonnells swore it was a foul lie that their chief's wife would match with the man who had done to death her husband. The secretary, in Shane's own temper, said that the O'Neill was a match good enough for the Queen of Scots herself ; and Shane, on hearing the debate, struck in and spoke to the same purpose with such arrogance that in a minute dirks were out, and, once the work begun, the Scotch hacked to pieces this scourge of their clan. His mangled body was flung into a pit, but a certain wise Englishman of the nearest garrison, hearing of the result, sent to have the head cut off, pickled it, and sent it to the Lord Deputy with a claim for the thousand pounds that had been set upon it. Fitzwilliam wrote, exulting in the consummation, but wishing to God that the traitor's end had been more in accordance with his desert. The daggers, to his thinking, had done their work too quickly ; and all he could do was to hoist the great Shane's head and leave it to blacken — where so many Irish heads had blackened and were still to blacken — over the gate of Dublin Castle. The Macdonnells were more civilised than this English noble in their vengeance. Shane's body, wrapped, " for lack of a better shroud, in a keene's old shirt," was miserably interred at Glenarm, the home of the Macdonnell chief. The O'Neills sent to beg that this great shaker of Ulster might rest with his own kin. But the abbot of the monastery answered, " Have

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 178

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Cushendun, in 1567, Shane O'Neill met his end. Fleeing after defeat by the O'Donnells, he had thought first of going to the Lord Deputy at Dundalk with a halter round his neck, but he bethought him of Sorley Boy and offered freedom and friendship to the chief of the Ulster Scots. At Sorley's advice, he arranged to meet Alexander Og Macdonnell, a surviving brother, who with his levies was encamped on the hill slope to the north-west. Shane came bringing Sorley with him. There were two days of banqueting, and in the revels Shane's secretary made a rash speech. Shane, he said, was of a mind to marry James Macdonnell's wife, whom Shane still kept in his power, and the lady was willing. The Macdonnells swore it was a foul lie that their chief's wife would match with the man who had done to death her husband. The secretary, in Shane's own temper, said that the O'Neill was a match good enough for the Queen of Scots herself. Shane struck in and spoke to the same purpose with such arrogance that in a minute dirks were out, and once the work begun, the Scots hacked to pieces this scourge of their clan. His mangled body was flung into a pit. A wise Englishman of the nearest garrison sent to have the head cut off, pickled it, and sent it to the Lord Deputy with a claim for the thousand pounds set upon it. Fitzwilliam wrote exulting, but wishing the traitor's end had been more in accordance with his desert. The daggers, to his thinking, had done their work too quickly. He hoisted Shane's head and left it to blacken over the gate of Dublin Castle, where so many Irish heads had blackened and were still to blacken.

3. Essex's massacre on Rathlin Island

   near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim

   English forces under Essex landed on Rathlin, besieged the castle which surrendered after three days, and killed some 200 from the castle plus 300–400 more found hidden in caves and sea cliffs. Sorley Boy watched from Fair Head as his wife, children, and those of his gentlemen were slaughtered.

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   force of soldiers. They landed on Rathlin, and besieged the castle, which surrendered after three days. " There have been slain," says Sir Henry Sidney's Brief Relation, " that came out of the castle of all sorts two hundred. They be occupied still in the killing, and have slain all that they have found hidden in caves and in the cliffs of the sea to the number of 300 or 400 more." Sorley Boy, then close on sixty, but with life to last for another quarter of a century, ran up and down on Fair Head, seeing the butchery of his wife and children, and of the wives and children of all his gentlemen, and, a spy reported, " was like to run mad, turning and tormenting himself, saying that he there lost all he ever had."

   Essex penned an enthusiastic description of the raid which reached Elizabeth amid the famous revels of Kenilworth j and from Kenilworth she added in her own hand to the despatch of reply this postscript of congratulation in the euphuistic style of the period : —

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 173

   As the companion tells it

   Rathlin Island lies off this coast. English forces under Essex landed there and besieged the castle. It surrendered after three days. Sir Henry Sidney's Brief Relation records that 200 of all sorts came out of the castle and were slain. The killing went on. Soldiers found people hidden in caves and in the cliffs of the sea, and killed 300 or 400 more. Sorley Boy was close on sixty then, with life to last another quarter of a century. He ran up and down on Fair Head, watching the butchery of his wife and children, and of the wives and children of all his gentlemen. A spy reported he "was like to run mad, turning and tormenting himself, saying that he there lost all he ever had." Essex penned an enthusiastic description of the raid. It reached Elizabeth amid the famous revels of Kenilworth, and from Kenilworth she added in her own hand a postscript of congratulation.

4. Kidnapping of Red Hugh O'Donnell at Rathmullan

   Rathmullan · town · Donegal · 1587

   In September 1587, a merchant ship captained by George Dudall sailed up Lough Swilly and anchored opposite Rathmullan under pretence of trading wine. Captain Birmingham lured Red Hugh O'Donnell, then fifteen, aboard with the MacSwiney chiefs and Sir Owen O'Gallagher, then bolted the cabin door and seized them.

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   How was Perrott to come by his pledge ? The story is told in the beginning of Mr. Standish O'Grady's vivid narrative The Flight of the Eagle, a book which brings Elizabethan Ireland really to life again ; and from it I must condense my narrative. On May 2nd, 1587, Perrott wrote to Elizabeth and her Council : " For O'Donnell, if it would please her Majesty to appoint me to go thither, I will make him and his Mac- Sweenies deliver in what pledges I list. Otherwise, if it please her Majesty, I could take himself, his wife, who is a great bringer-in of Scots, and perhaps his son Hugh Roe (Red Hugh) by sending them a boat with wines." In plain English, Perrott proposed sending an army to coerce O'Donnell, or as an alternative, a kidnapping expedition ; and Elizabeth promptly decided for the kidnapping. It was found presumably that Hugh Roe was the easier object, and accordingly in September, 1587, a big merchantman sailed up Lough Svvilly, and cast anchor opposite Rathmullen. Her master was George Dudall, but the gentleman who appeared as her owner and announced that he came with a cargo of choice wines, was in reality Captain Birmingham of her Majesty's forces. And the reason why he sailed into Rathmullen was that he had heard of a visit purposed by Owen Oge of the Battle-axes to MacSwiney of Fanad, on whom the head of the MacSwineys came to " cosher " or demand free quarters for a period, according to his right. Birmingham had been trading freely and generously for some days, when in came Owen of the Battle-axes at the head of a great retinue. " Harpers rode there, their sheathed instruments of harmony slung behind their backs, or borne by attendants ; story-tellers to beguile the intervals of feasting and music with fragments of ancient epic, and shed a glamour of the romance of old over the tame familiar facts of the present. There rode Owen Oge's bard, who composed poems in his praise, and the professional rhapsodists who recited them, for the bard proper was a silent man ; he composed, but sung not.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 118

   As the companion tells it

   As you come through Rathmullan in Donegal, this is where one of the most famous kidnappings in Irish history happened in 1587. In May of that year, Perrott wrote to Elizabeth proposing to take O'Donnell, his wife, or his son Hugh Roe, known as Red Hugh, by sending them a boat with wines. Elizabeth chose the kidnapping. In September 1587, a merchant ship sailed up Lough Swilly and anchored opposite Rathmullan. Her master was George Dudall, but the man who appeared as her owner and announced a cargo of choice wines was Captain Birmingham of her Majesty's forces. He had heard that Owen Oge of the Battle-axes planned a visit to MacSwiney of Fanad, where the head of the MacSwineys came to cosher, meaning to demand free quarters as was his right. Birmingham traded freely and generously for some days. Then Owen Oge arrived at the head of a great retinue. Harpers rode with their instruments slung behind their backs or borne by attendants. Story-tellers came to beguile the intervals of feasting with fragments of ancient epic. There rode Owen Oge's bard, who composed poems in his praise, and the professional rhapsodists who recited them, for the bard composed but did not sing. Captain Birmingham lured Red Hugh O'Donnell, then fifteen, aboard with the MacSwiney chiefs and Sir Owen O'Gallagher. He bolted the cabin door and seized them.

5. Cuellar defends MacClancy's Castle on Lough Melvin

   near Lough Melvin · lake or lakes · Fermanagh · 1588

   After the Spanish Armada, Captain Cuellar took refuge with the Irish chief MacClancy and offered to hold MacClancy's castle on Lough Melvin against the English. Fitzwilliam arrived with a large force but failed to make the Spaniards surrender and was driven away by a heavy snowfall. The castle was said to still stand at the time of writing.

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   Cuellar's stay with MacClancy seemed likely to come to an end, when Fitzwilliam came down, hanging all Spaniards, and punishing their harbourers ; MacClancy decided that he, as a chief who paid no Queen's rent, must fly ; but Cuellar undertook to remain with the other Spaniards and hold the castle on Lough Melvin which is still there. Fitzwilliam came to the lough side with a large force but failed to make the Spaniards surrender, and was driven away by a heavy fall of snow. Cuellar's reputation now stood so high that MacClancy was unwilling to let him go ; so he escaped secretly and made his way east, travelling for twenty days through the mountains of Donegal and Derry till he got to Dunluce, where he heard of

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 39

   As the companion tells it

   Lough Melvin is the lake the road passes near. In 1588 Captain Cuellar took refuge with the Irish chief MacClancy. Fitzwilliam came down hanging Spaniards and punishing their harbourers, and MacClancy decided he must fly, as a chief who paid no Queen's rent. But Cuellar undertook to remain with other Spaniards and hold the castle on Lough Melvin, which is still there. Fitzwilliam came to the lough side with a large force but failed to make the Spaniards surrender, and was driven away by a heavy fall of snow. Cuellar's reputation stood so high that MacClancy was unwilling to let him go. He escaped secretly and made his way east, travelling for twenty days through the mountains of Donegal and Derry till he got to Dunluce.

6. General Munro seizes the Earl of Antrim at Dunluce

   near Carrickfergus · town · Antrim · 1641–1642

   During the 1641 rebellion, the Earl of Antrim gave a hospitable welcome to General Munro at Dunluce Castle. Munro accepted the hospitality, then seized his host and imprisoned him on suspicion at Carrickfergus. Antrim escaped and later joined Owen Roe O'Neill.

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   Duneynie, and was buried among his kin at Bonamargy Abbey, in Ballycastle. His son, Sir James Macdonnell, succeeded him as Constable of Dunluce, but died in 1601 ; Sir Randal, another son of Sorley's, fortified Dunluce in defiance of orders, and joined O'Neill and Red Hugh in their rebellion ; but after the defeat at Kinsale, seeing the game was up, he made timely profession of loyalty and was taken into favour by James, who granted him formally all the land from the Cutts of Coleraine to the Curran of Larne. Macdonnell remained staunch and was rewarded in 1620 with the earldom of Antrim. He died at Dunluce in 1639. His son, the second earl, had for mother Tyrone's daughter, and so was an object of suspicion, though he lived at Charles I.'s court and married Buckingham's widow. In 1 64 1 came the rebellion, and a Macdonnell — the Earl's cousin — was prominent among the rebel leaders. Antrim seems to have wavered between his loyalty and a natural feeling for those who were fighting to recover the lands from which they or their fathers had been ejected. But he relieved the garrison of Coleraine and gave a hospitable welcome to General Munro in Dunluce. That officer accepted the hospitality, then seized, his host and Imprisoned him on suspicion in Carrickfergus. Antrim escaped, and appealed to the King ; returned and was again taken by Munro, but again escaped and joined Owen Roe O'Neill, and fought strenuously for the King. Under the Commonwealth he was deprived of his estates, but like the other " innocent Papists " received an allotment in Connaught, whither the Celts, under Cromwell's policy, were being driven as if into a pen. Under the Restoration he obtained, after much difficulty, restitution of his own. But Dunluce by this time had fallen into useless ruins, and the Earl built Ballymagarry House near it as a residence. Earlier than that the castle had begun to crumble, for in 1639, when Antrim's wife, the Marchioness of Buckingham, was entertaining a great party, an outlying piece of the wall overhanging the landward mouth of the cave fell, carrying eight servants in its ruins. It was

   XVI

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 159

   As the companion tells it

   Carrickfergus is a town the road passes through or near, and in the winter of 1641 it became a prison for a man who had shown nothing but kindness to the man who locked him up. The Earl of Antrim was the second earl, son of the first earl who had been rewarded with the title in 1620 for staying loyal after the defeat at Kinsale. His mother was Tyrone's daughter, which made him an object of suspicion. He had lived at the court of Charles the First and married the widow of Buckingham. When the rebellion came in 1641, a Macdonnell, the Earl's cousin, was prominent among the rebel leaders. Antrim himself wavered between loyalty and a natural feeling for those fighting to recover lands from which they or their fathers had been ejected. But he relieved the garrison of Coleraine and gave a hospitable welcome to General Munro at Dunluce. Munro accepted the hospitality, then seized his host and imprisoned him on suspicion here at Carrickfergus. Antrim escaped and appealed to the King. He returned and was taken again by Munro, but escaped a second time and joined Owen Roe O'Neill, fighting strenuously for the King. Under the Commonwealth he was deprived of his estates, but like the other innocent Papists received an allotment in Connaught, where Cromwell's policy drove the Celts as if into a pen. Under the Restoration he obtained, after much difficulty, restitution of his own. By then Dunluce had fallen into useless ruins, and the Earl built Ballymagarry House near it as a residence. Earlier still the castle had begun to crumble, for in 1639, when Antrim's wife was entertaining a great party, an outlying piece of wall fell, carrying eight servants in its ruins.

7. Sorley Boy watches massacre from Fair Head

   near Benmore or Fair Head · promontory · Antrim

   Sorley Boy, then close on sixty, ran up and down on Fair Head watching the butchery of his wife and children and those of his gentlemen. A spy reported he was like to run mad, saying he there lost all he ever had.

   Read the passage

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   force of soldiers. They landed on Rathlin, and besieged the castle, which surrendered after three days. " There have been slain," says Sir Henry Sidney's Brief Relation, " that came out of the castle of all sorts two hundred. They be occupied still in the killing, and have slain all that they have found hidden in caves and in the cliffs of the sea to the number of 300 or 400 more." Sorley Boy, then close on sixty, but with life to last for another quarter of a century, ran up and down on Fair Head, seeing the butchery of his wife and children, and of the wives and children of all his gentlemen, and, a spy reported, " was like to run mad, turning and tormenting himself, saying that he there lost all he ever had."

   Essex penned an enthusiastic description of the raid which reached Elizabeth amid the famous revels of Kenilworth j and from Kenilworth she added in her own hand to the despatch of reply this postscript of congratulation in the euphuistic style of the period : —

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 173

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Benmore or Fair Head, Sorley Boy MacDonald stood and watched a massacre he could not stop. A force of soldiers had landed on Rathlin and besieged the castle there. It surrendered after three days. Sir Henry Sidney's Brief Relation says 200 of all sorts were slain coming out of the castle, and the killing went on. They found people hidden in caves and in the cliffs of the sea, and slew 300 or 400 more. Sorley Boy was close on sixty then, with life to last another quarter of a century. He ran up and down on Fair Head, seeing the butchery of his wife and children, and of the wives and children of all his gentlemen. A spy reported he was like to run mad, turning and tormenting himself, saying he there lost all he ever had. Essex wrote an enthusiastic description of the raid. It reached Elizabeth amid the famous revels of Kenilworth, and from Kenilworth she added in her own hand a postscript of congratulation.

8. Relief ships break the boom at Derry

   near Derry · city · Derry · 1689

   The Mountjoy under Captain Browning and the Phoenix of Coleraine broke the boom across Lough Foyle to relieve the besieged garrison of Derry. Browning, a Derry man, was shot dead at the boom and received no commemoration in the city.

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   Famine was now imminent : horseflesh was barely procurable, mice and rats fetched money, salted hides were regularly issued in provision to the soldiers. Flour ran out, but some ingenious man bethought him of a store of starch which, mixed with tallow, made an excellent substitute and prevented dysentery. But the garrison was reduced from 7,371 to little over 5.000, and unless help came there was no choice but starvation or surrender. Negotiations went on continuously ; but also hostilities. On July 16th Murray led a sally in which he was shot through both thighs. Baker was dead of illness and had deputed the governorship to Mitchelburne. At last deliverance came. In the fleet men naturally were chafing at the inaction, and Captain Browning, of the Mount joy ^ himself a Derry man, was eager to risk his vessel and her cargo. Finally Kirke yielded; and accompanied by the Phoenix, of Coleraine, Browning headed for the boom. The Dart7nouth frigate followed, harassing the enemy with her fire and endeavouring to draw theirs. At the first impact the boom broke, but the Mountjoy recoiled and stuck in the mud of the narrow channel. The besieged, watching from the walls, lost sight of the ships in the smother of smoke. Then they heard loud huzzas from the Irish and saw them preparing the boats to board ; but in a few moments the vessels were seen emerging from the cloud of smoke and creeping up under a light wind. The Phoenix had made for the gap, and the Mountjoy got herself off by firing a broadside, when the recoil of the guns lifted her off the bank. The Phoenix was first at the quay laden with meal; the Mountjoy came up later, but it came bringing the dead body of its captain, who was shot while putting his ship at the boom. It is strange enough that Browning has received no commemoration in a city so jealous of its memories.

   Derry was now safe though the siege was not actually raised till the night of July 31st: and it is August 1st — or by new

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 148

   As the companion tells it

   Derry, in 1689. The garrison inside the walls was starving. Horseflesh was barely procurable. Mice and rats fetched money. Salted hides were issued as rations to the soldiers. When the flour ran out, someone found a store of starch and mixed it with tallow, which made a substitute and kept dysentery at bay. The garrison had fallen from 7,371 to little over 5,000. Without help, they faced starvation or surrender. Negotiations went on, but so did the fighting. On July 16th Murray led a sally out from the walls and was shot through both thighs. Baker had already died of illness and handed the governorship to Mitchelburne. Deliverance came from the fleet. The men aboard had been chafing at inaction. Captain Browning of the Mountjoy, himself a Derry man, was eager to risk his vessel and her cargo. Kirke finally yielded. Browning, accompanied by the Phoenix of Coleraine, headed for the boom across Lough Foyle. The Dartmouth frigate followed behind, firing at the enemy to draw their fire. At the first impact the boom broke, but the Mountjoy recoiled and stuck in the mud of the narrow channel. The besieged watched from the walls and lost sight of the ships in the smother of smoke. They heard loud huzzas from the Irish and saw them preparing boats to board. Then the vessels emerged from the cloud, creeping up under a light wind. The Phoenix made for the gap. The Mountjoy freed herself by firing a broadside, the recoil lifting her off the bank. The Phoenix reached the quay first, laden with meal. The Mountjoy came up later, bringing the dead body of Captain Browning, shot while putting his ship at the boom. It is strange that Browning received no commemoration in a city so jealous of its memories. Derry was safe, though the siege was not raised until the night of July 31st.

9. Kidnapped gauger held on island at Glenbeagh

   Glenbeagh · townland · Donegal

   A revenue gauger who held evidence against several townlands for illegal poteen distilling was kidnapped by hillmen, rowed on a lake at Glen Beagh, and kept in a dark cell on a small island for six weeks to prevent him laying information at the assize. He was then blindfolded and released near his home in Letterkenny. The tale is told by Caesar Otway on the authority of Dr. Hastings.

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   he was reaching the crest the hunt was up and after him, and away they went. The gauger took the water but was spent with running and weighted with his clothes and so came near to drown ; hut the hillmen went in after him, pulled him out, rubbed him and dosed him heavily with the poteen it was his trade to discover. Then, tying a bandage over his eyes, they mounted him on a pony and took him over the hills to (lien Beagh ; put him in a curragh and rowed, him up and down the lake for some hours, and then stowed him in a dark cell on a little island. Here they kept him in the dark but well fed, for a matter of six weeks ; then he was taken out, blindfolded again, marched for a day over the mountains, and finally left alone on a road near his home in Letterkenny.

   The object of this was to keep the man from laying information at the assize. Under the existing revenue laws, any townland where a still was found working, fell under a heavy fine; and this gauger held evidence against several townlands, the fines amounting to a matter of ^7,000. The assize passed, and with it the legal date for laying the information, and the gauger was restored to the bosom of his family.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 69

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, a revenue gauger was held on a small island in the lake at Glen Beagh. He held evidence against several townlands for illegal poteen distilling, and the fines amounted to about 7,000. The assize was coming. The hillmen chased him. He took to the water but was spent with running and weighted with his clothes and came near to drowning. They went in after him, pulled him out, rubbed him, and dosed him heavily with the poteen it was his trade to discover. Then they tied a bandage over his eyes, mounted him on a pony, and took him over the hills. They put him in a curragh and rowed him up and down the lake for some hours, then stowed him in a dark cell on a little island. There they kept him in the dark but well fed for six weeks. Then they took him out, blindfolded him again, marched him for a day over the mountains, and left him alone on a road near his home in Letterkenny. The object was to keep him from laying information at the assize. The assize passed, and with it the legal date for laying the information, and the gauger was restored to the bosom of his family. Caesar Otway tells this on the authority of Dr. Hastings.

10. Battle of the Margy River

    Bonamargy · townland · Antrim · 1565

    Shane O'Neill, having taken James Macdonnell's castle in the red sandstone cliff, continued toward Ballycastle and the Macdonnell sanctuary at Bonamargy. The whole force of Clandonnell arrayed against him by the Margy river; one Macdonnell brother was slain and James and Sorley were taken prisoner.

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    Signal fires blazed on Torr Head, and James Macdonnell, head of the clan, hastened over from Cantire ; but by the time he landed in Red Bay, just south of Cushendun, Shane had taken his castle in the red sandstone cliff and was on his way towards Ballycastle and the Macdonnell sanctuary at Bonamargy. By the Margy river the whole force of Clandonnell arrayed itself against him. Three Macdonnell brothers went into the fight; one was slain, but James, lord of Cantire and Antrim, and Sorley, lord of the Route, were taken. Shane continued his progress along the coast, took Dunseverick, but Dunluce was too hard for him. Still he had in his hands the master of Dunluce, and for three days Sorley Boy was kept without food till the garrison surrendered sooner than let the chief die of starvation. Shane wrote to the Lord Deputy a glowing eulogy of his own zeal in the Queen's service, which had made him lord absolute in the north-east of Ulster. The Lord Deputy commended him and asked for James and Sorley Macdonnell, but Shane declared that he could not consent to" let so precious hostages out of his sight till he knew the Queen's own pleasure concerning them. So James and his wife and Sorley were shut up in a strong castle near Strabane, where neither Queen nor Deputy could reach them ; and there after a few months James Macdonnell came obscurely by his end. Even after death he remained a captive ; Shane buried him with much pomp and circumstance in the O'Neills' own ground at Armagh. But Sorley was proof against sickness — or it may be against poison — and two years later, when Shane made his fatal hosting into Tyrconnell, Sorley was still a prisoner. So after the day when Hugh O'Donnell met the O'Neills at the fords of Swiily and smote them hip and thigh, Shane, hardly escaping with his life, did not know which way to turn. On the north and north-west were the O'Donnells ; on the south the English ; and on the east the Macdonnells, now leagued with the

    xviii MURDER OF SHANE O'NEILL 275

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 178

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Bonamargy, the Battle of the Margy River was fought in 1565. Signal fires had blazed on Torr Head, and James Macdonnell, head of the clan, hastened over from Cantire. By the time he landed in Red Bay, south of Cushendun, Shane O'Neill had already taken his castle in the red sandstone cliff and was on his way toward Ballycastle and the Macdonnell sanctuary at Bonamargy. By the Margy river, the whole force of Clandonnell arrayed itself against him. Three Macdonnell brothers went into the fight. One was slain. James, lord of Cantire and Antrim, and Sorley, lord of the Route, were taken. Shane continued along the coast and took Dunseverick, but Dunluce was too hard for him. Still, he had the master of Dunluce in his hands, and for three days Sorley was kept without food until the garrison surrendered rather than let the chief die of starvation. Shane wrote to the Lord Deputy a glowing eulogy of his own zeal in the Queen's service, which had made him lord absolute in the north-east of Ulster. The Lord Deputy commended him and asked for James and Sorley, but Shane declared he could not consent to “let so precious hostages out of his sight till he knew the Queen's own pleasure concerning them.” James and his wife and Sorley were shut up in a strong castle near Strabane, where neither Queen nor Deputy could reach them. After a few months, James came obscurely by his end. Even after death he remained a captive. Shane buried him with much pomp in the O'Neills' own ground at Armagh. Sorley survived sickness or poison, and two years later, when Shane made his fatal hosting into Tyrconnell, Sorley was still a prisoner.

11. Cuellar's account of Ulster customs at MacClancy's Castle

    near Lough Melvin · lake or lakes · Fermanagh · 1588

    Cuellar stayed three months with MacClancy, a refractory chief in a difficult country, and left a description of native manners and customs. He described people living in straw huts among rugged mountains, eating butter with oaten bread once a day, wearing coarse goats' hair garments, and carrying on perpetual war with English garrisons.

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    " The custom of these savages is to live as the brute beasts among the mountains, which are very rugged in that part of Ireland, where we lost ourselves. They live in huts made of straw. The men are all large-bodied and of handsome features and limbs, and as active as the roe-deer. They do not eat oftener than once a day, and this is at night ; and that which they usually eat is butter with oaten bread. They drink sour milk, for they have no other drink ; they don't drink water, although it is the best in the world. On feast-days they eat some flesh half-cooked, without bread or salt, as that is their custom. They clothe themselves, according to their habit, with tight trousers and short loose coats of very coarse goats' hair. They cover themselves with blankets • and wear their hair down to their eyes. They are great walkers and inured to toil. They carry on perpetual war with the English, who here keep garrison for the Queen, from whom they defend themselves, and do not let them enter their territory, which is subject to inundation and marshy. That district extends for more than forty leagues in length and breadth. The chief inclination of these people is to be robbers, and to plunder each other ; so that no day passes without a call to arms among them. For, the people in one village becoming aware that in another there are cattle, or other effects, they immediately come armed in the night, and attack and kill one another; and the English from the garrisons, getting to know who had taken and robbed most cattle, then come down upon them and carry away the plunder. They

    IV

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Melvin, in 1588, is where a Spanish captain called Cuellar found shelter for three months with a chief named MacClancy. Cuellar had been shipwrecked, and he wandered into a part of Ulster he called difficult country, among rugged mountains. He wrote down what he saw of the people there, and he did not call it a kind place. He said the people lived in huts made of straw among the mountains. He called them large-bodied and handsome, as active as the roe-deer. They ate once a day, at night, and what they ate was butter with oaten bread. They drank sour milk, and though he said the water was the best in the world, they would not drink it. On feast-days they ate flesh, half-cooked, without bread or salt. They wore tight trousers and short loose coats of coarse goats' hair, and blankets over that. Their hair hung down to their eyes. They were great walkers, inured to toil. Cuellar wrote that they carried on perpetual war with the English, who kept garrison for the Queen. The people defended themselves and would not let the English enter their territory, which was marshy and subject to flooding. That country, he said, ran more than forty leagues in length and breadth. Their chief inclination, he wrote, was to be robbers and to plunder one another. No day passed without a call to arms. If the people of one village learned that another had cattle or goods, they came armed in the night and attacked and killed one another. And the English, hearing who had taken the most cattle, would come down on them and carry off the plunder.

12. Es massacre of Macdonnell women and children at Rathlin

    near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim · 1571

    Walter, Earl of Essex, set out to colonise Ulster in 1571 and dealt a bloody measure to Sorley Boy's women and children on Rathlin Island. Despite this butchery, Sorley Boy was not cowed.

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    What measure he dealt to Sorley Boy's women and children in Rathlin you shall read elsewhere, but the Macdonnell chief was no more to be cowed by this butchery than on the day when they showed him his son's head on the gate of Dublin cattle. "My son," he retorted, "has many heads." In 1584 Sir John Perrot marched into Ulster, and brought cannon

    Ballycastlc with Knocklayde Mountain.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 158

    As the companion tells it

    Rathlin Island saw a bloody measure dealt to Sorley Boy's women and children by Walter, Earl of Essex, in 1571. The Macdonnell chief was no more cowed by this butchery than on the day they showed him his son's head on the gate of Dublin Castle. He retorted, "My son has many heads."

13. Lord Leitrim's murder on the Mulroy road near Milford

    Millford · town · Donegal

    Lord Leitrim was ambushed and killed on the road near Milford, where it comes within fifty yards of Mulroy Lough's shore. Two assailants hidden in dense woodland fired on his car, killed the driver and clerk, and escaped by boat through Mulroy's islets. Lord Leitrim was beaten to death with gun butts, found with his teeth hard set, having died fighting.

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    means clear, though it is sufficiently apparent that they made no great haste to come up. First they met the clerk running towards them, and saying he was shot ; then the horse shied at a black mass in the road, and refused to pass it ; it was the driver of the front car. Then they came to Lord Leitrim, lying in a pool of water, with his brains beaten out ; and, looking to the lough below, saw a boat with two men rowing away, who in a minute were lost behind one of Mulroy's innumerable islets.

    The clerk died in their hands, though the only wound on him was the scar, made by a slug, above his ear ; suffusion of blood on the brain was apparently more the result of a violent shock than of the wound. The driver's heart was riddled with shot. Lord Leitrim had no fatal shot-wound on him ; gun butts had done the work.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 111

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Millford, the road runs near Mulroy Lough. Lord Leitrim was killed on this stretch. Two men lay hidden in the woodland and fired on his car. They shot the driver through the heart and hit the clerk with a slug above the ear. Lord Leitrim had no fatal shot wound. Gun butts had done the work. He was found lying in a pool of water, beaten to death. Those who came upon the scene first met the clerk running towards them, saying he was shot. The horse shied at the driver's body in the road. The clerk died in their hands, more from the violent shock than the wound. Looking out over the lough, they saw two men in a boat rowing away, lost in a minute behind one of Mulroy's innumerable islets.

14. Lundy's treachery as Governor of Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1689

    Colonel Lundy, sent as Governor of Derry in early 1689, declared the town incapable of defence and ordered two English regiments to leave. When James marched to the strand, the town clerk revealed the withdrawal, and Lundy fled disguised as a porter.

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    preternatural valour by religious zeal. That is not so. " Town companies''" existed in December, 1688; many of those who came in had seen fighting about Coleraine; and a great number were enrolled for active service by Colonel Lundy, who was sent down early in 1689 to be Governor of the town. It is true that their experience of service under him was not encouraging. In April the Catholic army, with James in person at their head, marched northwards. Lundy drew out his forces to oppose them at the crossing of the Finn near LifTord, but the affair was so managed that the Protestants had to beat a disorderly retreat and James advanced along the left bank of the Foyle. On April 15th English ships with two regiments under Colonel Cunningham and Colonel Richards had entered the Lough. Lundy had refused to employ these men against the advancing enemy, and on his return he called a Council of War, at which he declared that the town was incapable of defence and unprovided with food ; that to throw two regiments into it would therefore merely be a useless sacrifice of them. The officers, being commissioned to take their orders from Lundy, sailed reluctantly down the river. Naturally the town was full of rumours of treachery, though it was not yet generally known that the regiments had been finally withdrawn. Matters came to a crisis on the 1 8th. James marched his army to the strand, not far from where the Great Northern Railway station now is ; and while his army was under the walls, the town clerk insisted on publishing the fact that Cunningham and Richards had been ordered to leave the town with their troops. While the Council was still deliberating, those on the walls fired a cannon at the Irish which, it is said, killed an officer near the king's person. Still emissaries went to and fro ; the deciding incident was the arrival of Captain Adam Murray, with a troop of horse, from Culmore. Fifteen hundred foot were at Pennyburn, a little way beyond the present Lough Swilly railway station. Lundy, hearing of Murray's arrival, ordered him back, but he forced an entrance and immediately assumed the direction of affairs. He broke

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 144

    As the companion tells it

    Derry holds a story of treachery from 1689. Colonel Lundy was sent down early that year to be Governor of the town. Town companies had existed since December 1688, and many who came in had seen fighting about Coleraine. A great number were enrolled for active service under Lundy, but their experience of him was not encouraging. In April the Catholic army, with James in person at their head, marched northwards. Lundy drew out his forces to oppose them at the crossing of the Finn near Lifford, but the affair was so managed that the Protestants had to beat a disorderly retreat, and James advanced along the left bank of the Foyle. On April 15th English ships with two regiments under Colonel Cunningham and Colonel Richards entered the Lough. Lundy refused to employ these men. He called a Council of War and declared that the town was incapable of defence and unprovided with food, and that to throw two regiments into it would be a useless sacrifice. The officers, being commissioned to take their orders from Lundy, sailed reluctantly down the river. The town was full of rumours of treachery. Matters came to a crisis on the 18th. James marched his army to the strand. While his army was under the walls, the town clerk insisted on publishing the fact that Cunningham and Richards had been ordered to leave. Those on the walls fired a cannon at the Irish, which, it is said, killed an officer near the king's person. The deciding incident was the arrival of Captain Adam Murray, with a troop of horse, from Culmore. Lundy, hearing of Murray's arrival, ordered him back, but he forced an entrance and immediately assumed the direction of affairs.

15. The Sunken Bells of Killydonnell

    Killydonnell · townland · Donegal

    Killydonnell church, noted for its architectural beauty including remnants of east window tracery, once possessed a fine peal of bells. Marauders from the Tyrone shore carried off the bells but sank with them in a storm, and the bells are said to toll underwater once every seven years at midnight.

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    There is a story, less matter-of-fact in nature, clinging to Killydonnell. The church, besides its architectural beauty— of which some remnants can be seen in the tracery of an east window — owned a fine peal of bells. Marauders from the Tyrone shore crossed the water and robbed the abbey, and made a shift to carry off the bells with them. But a storm rose, and the heavy cargo was fatal to these sacrilegious persons, for they all went to the bottom with the bells. And once every seven years at midnight, if you are listening, the bell may be heard tolling deep down under the waters of the lough.

    One more battle was fought in the vale of Swilly, which seems indeed to have been the cockpit of Tyrconnell. It was in that strange and confused war which began with the Irish outbreak in 1640, and was finally put down by the hard hand of Cromwell. In that war the Irish, divided as always against themselves, yet were more or less held together by a great general, Owen Roe O'Neill, of the house of Tyrone. After his death in 1649, there was a hopeless break-up. His brother, Black Hugh, the only man who could ever claim to have inflicted a severe check on Cromwell, was passed over because of insurmountable jealousies ; and by a senseless compromise the command of the Ulster army was given to Heber M'Mahon, Bishop of Clogher. The result was many defections of soldiers, who had no desire to serve under a " Bishop-General."' M'Mahon marched from Tyrone, where Owen Roe had left the army in an impregnable position, into Tyrconnell, and Sir Charles Coote followed him from Deny. Henry O'Neill, another of Owen's brothers, begged of the Bishop not to risk a general action; but M'Mahon taunted him with cowardice, and the armies met at Scariffhollis Ford, where Shane had escaped eighty-three years before. The Bishop ordered his

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 81

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Killydonnell, a church once stood, noted for its architectural beauty. Some of that beauty can still be seen in the tracery of an east window. The church owned a fine peal of bells. Marauders from the Tyrone shore crossed the water and robbed the abbey, and made a shift to carry off the bells with them. But a storm rose, and the heavy cargo was fatal to these sacrilegious persons, for they all went to the bottom with the bells. Once every seven years, at midnight, if you are listening, the bell may be heard tolling deep down under the waters of the lough. The vale of Swilly saw one more battle, in that strange and confused war which began with the Irish outbreak in 1640, and was finally put down by the hard hand of Cromwell. The Irish, divided as always against themselves, were more or less held together by a great general, Owen Roe O'Neill, of the house of Tyrone. After his death in 1649, there was a hopeless break-up. His brother, Black Hugh, the only man who could ever claim to have inflicted a severe check on Cromwell, was passed over because of insurmountable jealousies. By a senseless compromise the command of the Ulster army was given to Heber M'Mahon, Bishop of Clogher. The result was many defections of soldiers who had no desire to serve under a Bishop-General. M'Mahon marched from Tyrone, where Owen Roe had left the army in an impregnable position, into Tyrconnell, and Sir Charles Coote followed him from Derry. Henry O'Neill, another of Owen's brothers, begged the Bishop not to risk a general action, but M'Mahon taunted him with cowardice, and the armies met at Scariffhollis Ford.

16. Neil Garv proclaims himself O'Donnell at Doon Rock

    Doon Rock · rock or rocks · Donegal · 1602

    After Red Hugh O'Donnell's death in 1602, his cousin Neil Garv, who had betrayed the O'Donnell cause and joined the English, learned of Red Hugh's death and caused himself to be proclaimed O'Donnell at the Rock of Doon, though much of the clan regarded him as a traitor.

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    The last O'Donnell here inaugurated with the full consent of his tribe, was the famous Red Hugh, whose history I must tell fully in another place. After his death in 1602, his brother Rory submitted to the English, abjured any claim to the O'Donnellship, and was named Earl of Tyrconnell. But Neil Garv (the Fierce), Red Hugh's cousin, who had betrayed the O'Donnell cause, and joined the English for a promise of the lordship of Tyrconnell, was in actual possession of the country, and when he learnt of Red Hugh's death caused himself to be proclaimed at the Rock ; though a great part of the clan looked up to Rory as their leader, and regarded Neil with hatred as a traitor.

    But it mattered little, for the English were determined that

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 73

    As the companion tells it

    Red Hugh was the last O'Donnell proclaimed at Doon Rock with the full consent of his tribe. After his death in 1602, his brother Rory submitted to the English, gave up any claim to the O'Donnellship, and was named Earl of Tyrconnell. But Neil Garv, called the Fierce, Red Hugh's cousin, had betrayed the O'Donnell cause and joined the English for a promise of the lordship of Tyrconnell. He was in actual possession of the country. When he learned of Red Hugh's death, he caused himself to be proclaimed at the Rock. A great part of the clan looked to Rory as their leader and regarded Neil with hatred as a traitor.

17. Von Rosen's brutality drives Protestants to Derry walls

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1689

    Von Rosen drove in all Protestants from ten miles around, mostly women and children, and hunted them at sword-point under the walls of Derry, threatening they would be left to die unless the besieged surrendered. The defenders erected a gallows on the walls in retaliation.

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    The siege was now turned into a bombardment, and a quantity of heavy shells, weighing 275 pounds, were thrown into the city, causing much loss of life. Food also began to run short, so that there was great joy when, on June 13th, a fleet was seen in the Lough below Culmore. Kirke, a soldier of infamous reputation for cruelty, was in command ; and he showed no redeeming qualities on this occasion. According to Mackenzie's account, the boom was constructed only after his appearance in the Lough ; and in any case it was his plain duty to risk a ship or two in the effort to break it. But the batteries on Culmore and the difficulties of the channel intimidated him, and he lay in the mouth of Lough Foyle in sight of the walls for full six weeks. Meantime lead was giving out and the guns fired brick with a lead coating : while food grew daily scarcer. James, impatient of the obstacle, sent down Von Rosen, a soldier who had acquired the methods of war by which Louis XIV. subdued the Palatinate. An assault upon the walls at Butcher's Gate, led by Lord Clancarty, was attempted, and repulsed with severe loss. Then Von Rosen resorted to moral suasion. He drove in all the Protestants for ten miles round, mostly women and children, and hunted them at the sword-point under the walls j sending in a message to the town that all the unfortunates should be kept there to die of hunger and cold unless the besieged surrendered. The reply was the erection of a gallows on the walls and a message that all prisoners — of whom several were of rank and position — would be hanged by way of retaliation. Fortunately Hamilton was not a barbarian, like Von Rosen, and matters were not pushed to an extremity ; though the unfortunate people, most

    XV

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 147

    As the companion tells it

    Derry, in 1689, endured a siege that became a bombardment. Heavy shells weighing 275 pounds were thrown into the city, causing great loss of life. Food ran short. There was joy when, on June 13th, a fleet appeared in the Lough below Culmore. But Kirke, a soldier of infamous reputation for cruelty, commanded it, and he showed no redeeming qualities. The boom across the water was built only after his arrival, and it was his plain duty to risk a ship or two trying to break it. The batteries at Culmore and the channel's difficulties intimidated him, and he lay in sight of the walls for six full weeks. Lead was giving out inside Derry, and the guns fired brick with a lead coating, while food grew scarcer. James, impatient, sent down Von Rosen, a soldier who had learned his methods of war from Louis the Fourteenth's subjugation of the Palatinate. An assault on the walls at Butcher's Gate, led by Lord Clancarty, was attempted and repulsed with severe loss. Then Von Rosen turned to what the book calls moral suasion. He drove in all the Protestants for ten miles round, mostly women and children, and hunted them at sword-point under the walls, sending word that these unfortunates would be kept there to die of hunger and cold unless the besieged surrendered. The reply was a gallows erected on the walls, and a message that all prisoners, several of rank and position, would be hanged in retaliation. Hamilton was not a barbarian like Von Rosen, and matters were not pushed to an extremity, though the unfortunate people suffered grievously.

18. Boys steal rector's sermon at Kilmacrenan church

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal

    Two boys staying at Kilmacrenan Rectory, including a son of Caesar Otway, stole Dr. Hastings' sermon from his coat-tail pocket on the way to church. To their amazement, the rector preached an excellent discourse from a backup sermon he kept in his other pocket, which he called the 'bully.'

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    Accordingly on the way to church they contrived to pick the pocket ; but to their amazement the rector when he mounted the pulpit only showed a moment's hesitation and then launched into an excellent discourse. Coming out of church he shook his head at them. " Ah, ye young rascals, I know what ye were up to ! But I tell you, boys ; you forgot the bully in the other pocket." The " bully " was a second and superior article held in reserve for the chance of distinguished strangers.

    One of the pickpockets was a son of the late Mr. Caesar Otway, whose Sketches in Ireland^ published some seventy years ago, contain a great deal that is amusing, but are not to be relied on for strict veracity. I give, therefore, with all reservation, one more story of Dr. Hastings, told by this authority, who was, at least, undoubtedly an intimate friend of the Doctor's. One fine summer morning Dr. Hastings heard a noise at his back door and observed one of his servants trying to keep out a man who was anxious to get into the house. This person had that air of something between the classes, which in those days and at that place, could belong only to a gauger. " Let me in," he begged, "or my life's lost, and hide me somewhere." While Dr. Hastings was parleying with him, up came the forerunners of a great crowd demanding the gauger. Hastings remonstrated, but the crowd said they wished him no harm, but the gauger they must have or they would pull the house down to get him. "Well," said the Doctor, "there's no way to stop you, but there must be fair play given. The man had ten minutes start of you when he got here ; he must have the same law when he gets away." The pursuers consented, and the Doctor explained to the hunted man that if he could reach the Lennan, about half-a-mile off, and swim it he might get clear that way. Accordingly the crowd gathered, the Doctor stood on his doorstep watch in hand, and away went the gauger down the lawn, forded the Lurgy and was taking up the ridge that divides it from the Lennan, when just as

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    Kilmacrenan is a town in Donegal you pass through on this road. Two boys staying at the Rectory once played a trick on Dr. Hastings, the rector. One of them was a son of Caesar Otway. On the way to church, they picked the pocket of his coat-tail and stole his sermon. But when the rector mounted the pulpit, he showed only a moment's hesitation, then launched into an excellent discourse. Coming out of church, he shook his head at them and said,

19. Fitzwilliam peregrinates through Tyrconnell and executes Spaniards

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal · 1588

    Lord Deputy Fitzwilliam, having seen Streedagh Strand littered with corpses, reached Ballyshannon. Taking with him O'Donnell, Red Hugh's father, he made a peregrination through Tyrconnell and seized the survivors from the Trinidad Valencera, all of whom were put to death.

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    treated by the natives. Matters soon changed for the worse. As soon as the news reached Dublin that the Western coast was being strewn with wreckage and plunder, Fitzwilliam, the Lord Deputy, posted off in haste to the scene, gathering what treasure he could, and making a short end of all Spaniards. Having seen the whole length of Streedagh Strand littered with twelve or thirteen hundred dead corpses, shattered timbers, boats, cordage, and huge masts, he reached Ballyshannon. Thence taking with him the O'Donnell, Red Hugh's father, bound to acquiescence at this time, for his eldest son was a kidnapped prisoner in Dublin Castle, he made a peregrination through Tyrconnell and seized upon the survivors from the Trinidad ValenCera, all of whom were put to death.

    Two other vessels — one, it is said, a treasure-ship — went ashore on the coast of Donegal in the Rosses. One treasureship lies, to this day, in the sand off Mullaghderg, and various expeditions have been made to recover her spoils ; but a few brass guns, brought in a century ago, are all that has been won back from the sea. As lately as the spring of 1895, tne Harbour Lights steamer stayed for a fortnight on the spot trying to disinter treasures, but went away empty-handed. The other wreck lies about two miles to the south in Castleford Bay, inside the Island of Aran. In 1853 the coastguards at Rutland Island tried their luck on this vessel, and fetched up the great anchor which lies outside the United Services Institution in Parliament Street.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Ballyshannon, in 1588, was a turning point in a grim errand. Lord Deputy Fitzwilliam had hurried west from Dublin when word came that the western coast was being strewn with wreckage and plunder. He gathered what treasure he could and made short work of all Spaniards. He had already seen Streedagh Strand, its whole length littered with twelve or thirteen hundred dead corpses, shattered timbers, boats, cordage, and huge masts. Then he reached the town. From there he took with him the O'Donnell, Red Hugh's father, bound to acquiescence, for his eldest son was a kidnapped prisoner in Dublin Castle. Together they made a peregrination through Tyrconnell. Fitzwilliam seized upon the survivors from the Trinidad Valencera, all of whom were put to death. Two other vessels went ashore on the coast of Donegal in the Rosses. One, it is said, was a treasure-ship. She lies in the sand off Mullaghderg to this day. Expeditions have tried to recover her spoils. A few brass guns, brought up a century ago, are all that has been won back from the sea. As lately as the spring of 1895, the Harbour Lights steamer stayed a fortnight on the spot, but went away empty-handed. The other wreck lies in Castleford Bay, inside the Island of Aran. In 1853, coastguards at Rutland Island tried their luck and fetched up the great anchor that lies outside the United Services Institution in Parliament Street.

20. Levarcham spies on Deirdre at Emain Macha

    near Navan · monument · Armagh

    Conor sent Deirdre's nurse Levarcham to spy on Deirdre's beauty at the Red Branch mansion. She found Naisi and Deirdre playing chess, warned them that treachery and murder were planned that night in Emain, and urged them to bar their doors.

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    Then they came to the gate, and they struck a loud stroke with the wooden knocker. The doorkeeper asked them " Who was there ? " and they said, " the three sons of Usnach, with Deirdre and the two sens of Fergus." Then Conor bade them be lodged in the mansion of the Red Branch, and Deirdre still pressed them to fly. " That we will not," says Ulan, " for no cowardice or unmanliness has been known of us, and we will go to the Red Branch." Meat and wine were set before them, and after they had their fill Naisi said, " Bring now the chessboard that we may play." And Conor in his hall asked, " Whom now shall I find to bring me word if her own shape and features still live on Deirdre ? for if her own form live in her, there is no woman more beautiful in the world." " I will go," said Lavaicam, Deirdres nurse, "and bring you tidings,"' Then she came and found Naisi and Deirdre playing at the chess, and she kissed them lovingly ; but, said she, *"* You do ill to be playing on this chessboard, the thing which Conor most grieves the loss of, save of Deirdre alone ; and it is to inquire after the beauty of Deirdre I am come, if it still live on her ; and an evil deed is to be done this night in Eman, treachery and murder. " Then she bade them make fast the doors and windows, and exhorted the sons of Fergus to be faithful to their charge, and she went back to the king.

    " What news have you ? " said he.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 170

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Navan, the story goes that the three sons of Usnach came to the gate with Deirdre and the two sons of Fergus, and struck a loud stroke with the wooden knocker. The doorkeeper asked who was there, and they told him. Conor bade them be lodged in the mansion of the Red Branch. Deirdre still pressed them to fly, but Ulan said they would not, for no cowardice or unmanliness had been known of them, and they would go to the Red Branch. Meat and wine were set before them, and after they had their fill, Naisi called for the chessboard that they might play. Conor in his hall asked whom he should find to bring him word if her own shape and features still lived on Deirdre, for if her own form lived in her, there was no woman more beautiful in the world. Deirdre's nurse Levarcham said she would go and bring tidings. She came and found Naisi and Deirdre playing at the chess, and she kissed them lovingly. But she said to them, you do ill to be playing on that chessboard, the thing which Conor most grieves the loss of, save Deirdre alone. She told them it was to inquire after the beauty of Deirdre she had come, if it still lived on her, and that an evil deed was to be done that night in Emain, treachery and murder. She bade them make fast the doors and windows, and exhorted the sons of Fergus to be faithful to their charge. Then she went back to the king, and he asked her what news she had.

21. Murray's arrival from Culmore saves Derry

    near Culmore · town · Derry · 1689

    Captain Adam Murray arrived with a troop of horse from Culmore, forcing an entrance into Derry despite Lundy's order to turn back. He broke into the Council-room, confronted Lundy, and took direction of the defence, saving Derry from surprise.

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    preternatural valour by religious zeal. That is not so. " Town companies''" existed in December, 1688; many of those who came in had seen fighting about Coleraine; and a great number were enrolled for active service by Colonel Lundy, who was sent down early in 1689 to be Governor of the town. It is true that their experience of service under him was not encouraging. In April the Catholic army, with James in person at their head, marched northwards. Lundy drew out his forces to oppose them at the crossing of the Finn near LifTord, but the affair was so managed that the Protestants had to beat a disorderly retreat and James advanced along the left bank of the Foyle. On April 15th English ships with two regiments under Colonel Cunningham and Colonel Richards had entered the Lough. Lundy had refused to employ these men against the advancing enemy, and on his return he called a Council of War, at which he declared that the town was incapable of defence and unprovided with food ; that to throw two regiments into it would therefore merely be a useless sacrifice of them. The officers, being commissioned to take their orders from Lundy, sailed reluctantly down the river. Naturally the town was full of rumours of treachery, though it was not yet generally known that the regiments had been finally withdrawn. Matters came to a crisis on the 1 8th. James marched his army to the strand, not far from where the Great Northern Railway station now is ; and while his army was under the walls, the town clerk insisted on publishing the fact that Cunningham and Richards had been ordered to leave the town with their troops. While the Council was still deliberating, those on the walls fired a cannon at the Irish which, it is said, killed an officer near the king's person. Still emissaries went to and fro ; the deciding incident was the arrival of Captain Adam Murray, with a troop of horse, from Culmore. Fifteen hundred foot were at Pennyburn, a little way beyond the present Lough Swilly railway station. Lundy, hearing of Murray's arrival, ordered him back, but he forced an entrance and immediately assumed the direction of affairs. He broke

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 144

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Culmore, and in 1689 this was where Derry's rescue began. Captain Adam Murray rode out of here with a troop of horse and broke into the besieged city against the Governor's own orders. The story behind it is worth telling. Colonel Lundy had been sent down early in 1689 to govern Derry, but his leadership was poor. In April, James marched his Catholic army north. Lundy drew out his forces to oppose them at the crossing of the Finn near Lifford, but it was so badly managed that the Protestants retreated in disorder and James advanced along the left bank of the Foyle. On April 15, English ships carrying two regiments under Colonel Cunningham and Colonel Richards entered the Lough. Lundy refused to use them, called a Council of War, and declared the town incapable of defence and unprovided with food. The officers, under orders to take their commands from Lundy, sailed reluctantly down the river. Matters came to a crisis on April 18. James marched his army to the strand, near where the Great Northern Railway station later stood. While his army sat under the walls, the town clerk published the fact that Cunningham and Richards had been ordered to leave with their troops. Those on the walls fired a cannon at the Irish, which is said to have killed an officer near the king's own person. Lundy, hearing of Murray's arrival from Culmore, ordered him back. Murray ignored him, forced an entrance, and immediately took direction of affairs. Derry was saved from surprise.

22. Paddy M'Kye's 1837 Memorial on Gweedore Poverty

    near Gweedore · locality · Donegal · 1837

    In 1837, Patrick M'Kye, the national school teacher in Gweedore, sent a memorial to the Lord Lieutenant detailing the extreme destitution of the parishioners of Tullaghobegly. He catalogued the lack of basic possessions, starvation conditions, and families living alongside their cattle in squalor, appealing for immediate relief.

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    "That the parishioners of this parish of Tullaghobegly, in the Barony of Kilmacrenan, are in the most needy, hungry, and naked condition of any people that ever came within the precincts of my knowledge, although I have travelled a part of nine counties in Ireland, also a part of England and Scotland, together with a part of British America. I have likewise perambulated 2,253 miles through some of the United States, and never witnessed the tenth part of such hunger, hardships, and nakedness.

    " Now, my Lord, if the causes which I now lay before your Excellency were not of very extraordinary importance, I would never presume that it should be laid before you.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through Gweedore in Donegal. In 1837, Patrick M'Kye, the national school teacher here, sent a memorial to the Lord Lieutenant describing the desperate state of the parishioners of Tullaghobegly. He wrote that they were "in the most needy, hungry, and naked condition of any people that ever came within the precincts of my knowledge." M'Kye had travelled through parts of nine counties in Ireland, England, Scotland, British America, and 2253 miles through the United States, and said he had never witnessed even a tenth part of such hunger, hardships, and nakedness. He told the Lord Lieutenant that only the extraordinary importance of the matter would make him presume to lay it before him.

23. Saldanha wreck and Captain Pakenham's premonition

    near Lough Swilly · estuary · Donegal

    The Saldanha frigate was lost with all hands on the Swilly Rock near Fanad Head; the only living thing to come ashore was a grey parrot. Captain Pakenham had confided to Napier before sailing that he was uneasy, feeling forewarned he would lose his life on this voyage at Lough Swilly in the north of Ireland.

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    To the left of the hotel a line of cliffs runs for about six miles out to Fanad Head, reaching their highest point in a square-cut precipice that is called the Bin of Fanad. It has a fall of about 300 feet. Just off the Bin is the one obstacle to navigation, the Swilly Rock, where, early in the century, the Saldanha frigate was lost with all hands, the only thing that came alive ashore being a grey parrot. A strange story is told in the Napier memoirs of Captain Pakenham who commanded this unlucky vessel. He was in the Peninsula when a command reached him to join his ship and sail with sealed orders. He confided to Napier that for the first time he was uneasy about his safety. It was borne in upon him, he said, that he would lose his life on this voyage, and that the place where he would lose it would be Lough Swilly in the North of Ireland. The forewarning was of no more use than one of Cassandra's, predictions.

    XII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 114

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Swilly has a story tied to the Swilly Rock, off the Bin of Fanad, where the cliffs run out toward Fanad Head. Early in the 1800s the Saldanha frigate was lost there with all hands. The only living thing to come ashore was a grey parrot. The ship was commanded by Captain Pakenham, and a strange account of him survives in the Napier memoirs. Pakenham was in the Peninsula when orders reached him to join his ship and sail with sealed instructions. He confided to Napier that for the first time he felt uneasy about his safety. He said it was borne in upon him that he would lose his life on this voyage, and that the place would be Lough Swilly in the north of Ireland. The forewarning was no more use than one of Cassandra's predictions. He sailed, and he was lost, and every man with him.

24. Signal fires on Torr Head warn of Shane O'Neill

    near Torr Head · promontory · Antrim · 1565

    In 1565, signal fires were lit on Torr Head to warn of Shane O'Neill's march into the Glens of Antrim. James Macdonnell, head of the clan, hurried over from Cantire but by the time he landed at Red Bay, Shane had already taken his castle.

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    Signal fires blazed on Torr Head, and James Macdonnell, head of the clan, hastened over from Cantire ; but by the time he landed in Red Bay, just south of Cushendun, Shane had taken his castle in the red sandstone cliff and was on his way towards Ballycastle and the Macdonnell sanctuary at Bonamargy. By the Margy river the whole force of Clandonnell arrayed itself against him. Three Macdonnell brothers went into the fight; one was slain, but James, lord of Cantire and Antrim, and Sorley, lord of the Route, were taken. Shane continued his progress along the coast, took Dunseverick, but Dunluce was too hard for him. Still he had in his hands the master of Dunluce, and for three days Sorley Boy was kept without food till the garrison surrendered sooner than let the chief die of starvation. Shane wrote to the Lord Deputy a glowing eulogy of his own zeal in the Queen's service, which had made him lord absolute in the north-east of Ulster. The Lord Deputy commended him and asked for James and Sorley Macdonnell, but Shane declared that he could not consent to" let so precious hostages out of his sight till he knew the Queen's own pleasure concerning them. So James and his wife and Sorley were shut up in a strong castle near Strabane, where neither Queen nor Deputy could reach them ; and there after a few months James Macdonnell came obscurely by his end. Even after death he remained a captive ; Shane buried him with much pomp and circumstance in the O'Neills' own ground at Armagh. But Sorley was proof against sickness — or it may be against poison — and two years later, when Shane made his fatal hosting into Tyrconnell, Sorley was still a prisoner. So after the day when Hugh O'Donnell met the O'Neills at the fords of Swiily and smote them hip and thigh, Shane, hardly escaping with his life, did not know which way to turn. On the north and north-west were the O'Donnells ; on the south the English ; and on the east the Macdonnells, now leagued with the

    xviii MURDER OF SHANE O'NEILL 275

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 178

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Torr Head, in 1565, signal fires blazed to warn of Shane O'Neill's march into the Glens of Antrim. James Macdonnell, head of the clan, hastened over from Cantire, but by the time he landed in Red Bay, Shane had already taken his castle in the red sandstone cliff and was on his way towards Ballycastle and the Macdonnell sanctuary at Bonamargy. By the Margy river the whole force of Clandonnell arrayed itself against him. 3 Macdonnell brothers went into the fight. One was slain, but James, lord of Cantire and Antrim, and Sorley, lord of the Route, were taken. Shane continued along the coast, took Dunseverick, but Dunluce was too hard for him. He had in his hands the master of Dunluce, and for 3 days Sorley Boy was kept without food till the garrison surrendered rather than let the chief die of starvation. Shane wrote to the Lord Deputy a glowing eulogy of his own zeal in the Queen's service. The Lord Deputy commended him and asked for James and Sorley Macdonnell, but Shane declared he could not consent to "let so precious hostages out of his sight till he knew the Queen's own pleasure concerning them." James and his wife and Sorley were shut up in a strong castle near Strabane, where neither Queen nor Deputy could reach them. After a few months James Macdonnell came obscurely by his end. Shane buried him with much pomp in the O'Neills' own ground at Armagh. But Sorley was proof against sickness, or it may be against poison, and 2 years later, when Shane made his fatal hosting into Tyrconnell, Sorley was still a prisoner. After Hugh O'Donnell met the O'Neills at the fords of Swilly and smote them hip and thigh, Shane did not know which way to turn.

25. Sorley Boy submits to Queen Elizabeth's portrait in Dublin

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1585

    After recapturing Dunluce in 1585, the eighty-year-old Sorley Boy came to Dublin and made his allegiance to Queen Elizabeth's portrait, going on his knees to kiss the embroidered pantofle of her Majesty's royal foot.

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    against Dunluce that shook it sadly till it was forced to surrender. Sorley was not taken in it, and in the next year he re -captured it by treachery ; but the triumphant Tudor bastard struck fear into him, and the old chief, now eighty years old, came to Dublin and there made his allegiance duly to Queen Elizabeth's portrait, going on his knees to kiss the embroidered "pantofle" of her Majesty's royal foot. He died in 1590 at his castle of

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 158

    As the companion tells it

    Dublin was where Sorley Boy MacDonnell made his peace with the crown in 1585. After recapturing Dunluce by treachery, the old chief, then eighty years old, came here and made his allegiance to Queen Elizabeth's portrait, going on his knees to kiss the embroidered pantofle of her Majesty's royal foot. He died in 1590 at his castle.

26. Spanish crews shelter at Killybegs under MacSwiney

    Killybegs · town · Donegal · 1588

    Three Armada vessels put into Killybegs where the ships foundered but 2,000 crew got ashore with their arms. They obtained fresh stores and a welcome from MacSwiney of Banaght, lord of the country, before patching up two vessels and putting to sea again, abandoning the San Martin.

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    the coast of Tyrconnell would have met a very different reception; but Ireland had not yet been driven to hold that her best friends were the enemies of England. Three great ships went ashore on Streedagh Strand between Sligo and Bundoran. Another, the Rata, under Don Alonzo de Leyva, broke loose from her anchors and ran ashore ; but her crew were hospitably sheltered by O'Rourke. of Brefny, till they embarked again upon another vessel, the San Martin, which had been able to hold out in the offing. They met the Girona, and Duquesa Sta. Anna, and made their escape northwards, the wind being still westerly : but the three were obliged to put into Killybegs when the ships again foundered, but the crews — 2,000 in number — got ashore with their arms. Here they obtained fresh stores, and a welcome from MacSwiney of Banaght, lord of this country : and having managed to patch up two of their vessels they again put to sea, abandoning the San Martin. The Duquesa Sta. Anna, however, had no better fortune ; she ran upon the rocks in Glennagaveny Bay, west of Inishowen Head. De Leyva, escaping from her, made his way to the Girona, which lay at anchor in Mulroy or Sheephaven. After a week's labour upon her to make her seaworthy, he and the remnant of three crews, stood out to make the coast of Scotland, where there was some chance of friendship ; but, hugging the Antrim coast, near the Giant's Causeway, ran on a rock and perished. Sorley Boy Macdonell, Lord of Dunluce, came to the rescue, but recovered only five of the crew, certain butts of wine, and three pieces of cannon, which he mounted on his castle and refused to give up. Another wreck occurred at a neighbouring point, and eleven of this second crew found shelter with Sorley Boy, who eventually despatched them over to Scotland.

    Another ship of the first class, La Trinidad Valencera, went on shore in the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen. A large number of the crew succeeded in landing, and were tolerably

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Killybegs in Donegal, you are on a coast where ships of the Spanish Armada once sheltered and wrecked. In 1588, three vessels put in here after escaping northwards from earlier disasters on the Sligo coast. The Rata, under Don Alonzo de Leyva, had broken loose from her anchors and run ashore, but her crew were sheltered by O'Rourke of Brefny until they embarked on the San Martin, which had held out in the offing. They met the Girona and the Duquesa Sta. Anna and made their way north, the wind still westerly. The three ships again foundered here. But the crews, 2,000 in number, got ashore with their arms. They obtained fresh stores and a welcome from MacSwiney of Banaght, lord of this country. Having patched up two of the vessels, they put to sea again, abandoning the San Martin. The Duquesa Sta. Anna had no better fortune. She ran upon the rocks in Glennagaveny Bay, west of Inishowen Head. De Leyva escaped and made his way to the Girona, which lay at anchor in Mulroy or Sheephaven. After a week's labour to make her seaworthy, he and the remnant of three crews stood out to make the coast of Scotland, where there was some chance of friendship. But hugging the Antrim coast near the Giant's Causeway, she ran on a rock and perished. Sorley Boy Macdonell, Lord of Dunluce, came to the rescue, but recovered only five of the crew, certain butts of wine, and three pieces of cannon, which he mounted on his castle and refused to give up.

27. Wolfe Tone captured after naval battle off the Rosses

    Letterkenny · town · Donegal · 1798

    The French ship Hoche, carrying Wolfe Tone, fought against four English vessels off the Rosses before striking its colours. Tone was taken prisoner and landed at either Rathmullen or Buncrana, later recognised at Letterkenny.

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    Bompart's ship, carried away her main topmast, which in falling did further damage ; and as a forlorn hope they tried to escape by shifting their course and making to the south-west. Dawn found them virtually surrounded by the English fleet, and Bompart ordered his frigates and the Biche schooner to hold on and attempt escaping ; he himself had no chance to do so. The French officers begged Tone to transfer himself to the Biche, which had the best chance to escape — as she actually did — because his fate, if taken, would be certain execution. But Tone refused to fly while the French fought for his country, and commanded a battery in the action which followed. At seven o'clock, the Rosses bearing five leagues S.S.-W., firing began. The Hoche fought against four English vessels of her own size till reduced to a complete wreck. She struck at 11.20 a.m., and was taken into Lough Swilly. The prisoners were landed, according to one account at Rathmullen, according to others at Buncrana. Tone, in his French uniform, passed with the rest, till recognised at Letterkenny by a man who had been at college with him. He was taken to Dublin, tried by courtmartial, defended himself with dignity and courage, and when sentenced to be Ranged, only pleaded the right due to the uniform he wore as a general in the French army. But the Court, with needless severity, refused to treat him as an honourable enemy, and shoot him. Tone anticipated his fate by cutting his throat in prison with a pen-knife. Life was not extinct when he was found, and, incredible as it sounds, the authorities having caused the wound to be tied up so as to prolong life a few hours, proposed to proceed to hang him. This odious step was prevented by the energy of Curran, who obtained a writ of habeas corpus from the Lord Chief Justice, Lord Kilwarden, on the ground that if Tone was held to be a British subject, holding no military commission, a court-martial had no jurisdiction over him. Such was the lamentable but not ignominious end of a formidable enemy to the English rule in Ireland ; and since the Hoche

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 106

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Letterkenny is where one of the most famous prisoners in Irish history was recognised. In 1798, the French ship Hoche carried Wolfe Tone toward Ireland. The Hoche had already lost her main topmast, and the damage worsened. The French officers begged Tone to transfer himself to the Biche, a schooner with the best chance of escape, because if he were taken, his fate would be certain execution. Tone refused to fly while the French fought for his country. He commanded a battery in the action that followed. At seven o'clock, with the Rosses bearing five leagues south-south-west, firing began. The Hoche fought against four English vessels of her own size until she was reduced to a complete wreck. She struck her colours at 11.20 in the morning and was taken into Lough Swilly. The prisoners were landed, according to one account at Rathmullen, according to others at Buncrana. Tone, wearing his French uniform, passed among the rest unnoticed until he was recognised at Letterkenny by a man who had been at college with him. He was taken to Dublin and tried by court-martial. He defended himself with dignity and courage. When sentenced to be hanged, he pleaded only for the right due to the uniform he wore as a general in the French army. The Court, with needless severity, refused to treat him as an honourable enemy and shoot him. Tone anticipated his fate by cutting his throat in prison with a pen-knife. Life was not extinct when he was found, and the authorities had the wound tied up to prolong life a few hours, proposing to proceed to hang him. Curran prevented this by obtaining a writ of habeas corpus from the Lord Chief Justice, Lord Kilwarden.

28. Cave at Rock of Doon entrance to Fairyland

    Doon · townland · Donegal

    On the south side of the Rock of Doon is a cave believed to give entrance to Fairyland. Stories tell of rash mortals who watched on midsummer nights and saw a great company of 'the gentry,' green-jacketed and red-capped, entering and sallying forth. Many countrywomen believed their dead children had not died but been taken captive by this strange folk.

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    Such is the present sanctity of Doon Well, not less venerable among its solitudes than the pomp and processions of Lourdes. But legend and history also lend an interest to the spot. On the south of the rock is a cave which gives entrance to Fairyland ; stories are told of rash mortals who watched here on midsummer nights, and saw a great company of "the gentry," green jacketed and red capped, entering and sallying forth. Many a woman of the countryside has believed that her dead

    VIII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is a cave on the south side of the Rock of Doon, said to give entrance to Fairyland. Stories are told of rash mortals who watched here on midsummer nights, and saw a great company of the gentry, green-jacketed and red-capped, entering and sallying forth. Many a woman of the countryside believed her dead children had not died but been taken captive by this strange folk.

29. Derrybeg chapel site and penal-law mass tradition

    near Derrybeg · town · Donegal

    During the penal laws, people of the Derrybeg district assembled in a hidden hollow to hear mass in the open air, with sentries posted in the heather. After repeal, they insisted the chapel be built on this very spot, astride a stream.

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    Leaving Bunbeg, you take a road running eastward along the coast to Derrybeg, about two miles off ; you will know when you get there by a very steep and rather tortuous hill, on which there is more than the usual chance of meeting a cow or donkey, owing to the presence of some cabins halfway down. At the hill's foot a small stream flows under a bridge, and in the tiny hollow of a gorge is Derrybeg chapel, unhappily too well known. In this hollow, when the penal laws existed, the people of the district assembled to hear mass in the open air; the spot itself was secure from observation, and sentries posted in the heather round easily guarded against a surprise of the priest. So when the penal laws were repealed, and Derrybeg grew rich enough to have a chapel — it is wonderful how much money the poorest parishes will contribute for this end — they were determined that the chapel should stand nowhere but in this spot of many memories. The chapel actually stands astride of the stream ; and early in the eighties, on one Sunday a heavy flood came down, burst the culvert under the chapel, and instantly filling the building, drowned several of the worshippers. Worse, however, had to come. In February, 1889, the whole Gweedore district was in a state of suppressed rebellion. The Plan of Campaign had been preached, great evictions followed on the Olphert estate, and troops were sent down to keep the population under. They brought with them the famous battering-ram, which was used for knocking in the walls of cabins whose inmates refused to open to the officers of the law. If these things have to be done, it is well to take the simplest and most efficacious means of doing them; but the necessity was not an agreeable one, and the feelings of the peasantry were inflamed to the uttermost. Their leader was the priest, Father Macfadden, who in all negotiations with landlords acted as a spokesman for his flock; and to the influence which his office gave him among a people superstitious or religious in the highest degree, he added the natural ascendency of a strong character. The Government was anxious to arrest him, but the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 96

    As the companion tells it

    The coast road runs east to Derrybeg, where a steep and winding hill drops past cabins halfway down, and a cow or donkey is a real likelihood on that descent. At the foot of the hill a small stream flows under a bridge, and in the hollow of a gorge stands the chapel. That hollow is the heart of the story. When the penal laws were in force, the people of the district gathered here to hear mass in the open air. The spot was hidden from observation, and sentries stood in the heather around it to guard against any surprise of the priest. It was secure ground, and it became sacred ground. When the penal laws were repealed and the parish was rich enough to build a chapel, the people were determined it should stand nowhere but on this spot of many memories. They built it astride the stream itself. The stream would not always be peaceful. Early in the 1880s, on a Sunday, a heavy flood came down. It burst the culvert beneath the chapel and filled the building in an instant, drowning several worshippers inside. Worse was still to come. In February 1889 the whole Gweedore district was in a state of suppressed rebellion. The Plan of Campaign had been preached, and great evictions followed on the Olphert estate. Troops were sent to keep the population under, and they brought the famous battering-ram, used for knocking in the walls of cabins whose inmates refused to open to the officers of the law. The feelings of the peasantry were inflamed to the uttermost. Their leader was the priest, Father Macfadden, who acted as spokesman for his flock in all negotiations with landlords. To the influence of his office among a people religious in the highest degree, he added the natural ascendancy of a strong character. The Government was anxious to arrest him.

30. Derry burnt in O'Doherty's revolt

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1609

    In 1609, Derry was burnt for the last time during the revolt provoked by Sir Cahir O'Doherty against Governor Paulet. The author notes that Derry has repeatedly risen from its ashes throughout its history.

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    In two years a town was there, capable of housing a thousand men, says Docwra, who prided himself greatly on his work. How he was succeeded by Paulet in the governorship, and how Paulet rashly provoked Sir Cahir O'Doherty into revolt, I have already told. In that revolt, during 1609, Derry was for the last time burnt. Probably no town in the kingdom has so often risen from its ashes.

    In 1609 begins the modern history of the town which has been called, and with reason, the acropolis of Protestant Ulster. The Corporation of London agreed to rebuild Derry, and so

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    Derry has been burnt many times, and the road takes you near a city that knows fire. In 1609, Derry was burnt for the last time. That burning came during the revolt of Sir Cahir O'Doherty against the governor, Paulet. Paulet had rashly provoked him into rebellion, and the town paid the price. Probably no town in the kingdom has so often risen from its ashes. That same year of 1609 begins the modern history of the town, which has been called, and with reason, the acropolis of Protestant Ulster. The Corporation of London agreed to rebuild Derry.

31. Donegal ends as seat of the O'Donnell princedom

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1607–1608

    After Red Hugh's death in Spain and the Flight of the Earls, the O'Donnell lands including Donegal were declared forfeit to the Crown. Niall Garv, who had enabled the English conquest, was imprisoned in the Tower of London, ending Donegal's role as a Celtic princely seat.

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    All this happened on Michaelmas Day. O'Donnell maintained the blockade by land till the end of October when news reached him that a Spanish fleet had arrived in Kinsale, and instantly abandoning his own country to the invaders — whom he looked to deal with later on— he marched to effect his junction with the Earl of Tyrone, and with him to meet the Spanish forces and attack the English. The result was, by bad generalship, ruinous defeat. Red Hugh left Ireland for Spain to plead for more help, never to return ; he died there by poison. A pacification, false and hollow, succeeded ; Rory O'Donnell, his brother, was recognised and created Earl of Tyrconnell ; but after four years he and Tyrone found themselves surrounded with intrigues, and in despair fled with all their belongings. Their property was declared forfeit and Donegal was among the spolia opima of the confiscation. The unhappy Nial Garv, who more than any man had contributed to this consummation, proffered his claims, and in full settlement of them was sent to rot till he died in the Tower of London. So ends the history of Donegal as the seat of a Celtic Princedom.

    Killybegs.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Donegal, you're passing through what was once the seat of a Celtic princedom, and its end came in the years after 1601. Red Hugh O'Donnell marched south to join the Spanish at Kinsale and met ruinous defeat by bad generalship, then fled to Spain to plead for more help and never returned. He died there by poison. His brother Rory was created Earl of Tyrconnell in a hollow pacification, but within four years Rory and Tyrone found themselves surrounded by intrigues and fled Ireland in despair. Their property was declared forfeit, and Donegal was among the spoils of the confiscation. Nial Garv, who more than any man had brought this outcome about, proffered his claims and was sent to rot in the Tower of London until he died. So ends the history of Donegal as the seat of a Celtic princedom.

32. Grianan of Aileach on Elagh mountain

    near Grianan of Aileach · monument · Donegal · 1101

    On the summit of Elagh mountain stands the Grianan of Aileach, a restored circular stone fort with three concentric ramparts and cyclopean masonry walls eighteen feet high and over twelve feet thick. It was the stronghold of the sons of Nial of the Nine Hostages and said to be named after a Scottish princess; Patrick converted the chiefs there, and in 1101 Murtagh O'Brien demolished the O'Neill palace.

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    But from the lough itself, or from Fahan pier, you will see the monument of a far older past than these petty castles point to. On the highest summit of the range that divides the eastern arm of Lough Swilly from the valley of the Foyle and the town of Derry — on the top of Elagh mountain — stands conspicuous a circular fort of stonework. That is the Grianan, or summer palace of Aileach, and well worthy a visit. Three concentric ramparts of earth and stone enclose a fort or cashel — a ring of cyclopean masonry some five-and-twenty yards in diameter ; the walls are eighteen feet high, and over twelve feet thick at the base. Inside this huge wall, from each side of the entrance gate galleries run, with exits on to the enclosure. This was the stronghold where the sons of Nial of the Nine Hostages established themselves. But according to the legend in the Four Masters, the place took its name from a princess of Scotland, Aileach, " modest and blooming in Alba, till the loss of the Gael disturbed her," and she followed Eoghad of the Hy-Nial over seas, and from the pair sprang sons, who founded Ualriada, the kingdom of the Isles and the Antrim Coast. Here in later days Patrick came, and converted the chiefs, and there was no palace in Ireland more famous, till noi, when Murtagh O'Brien, King of Munster, made a great raid into the North, and demolished the home of the O'Neills.

    The fort as it stands has been restored by a zealous antiquary, Dr. Bernard of Derry ; marks made with tar show the point up to which the wall was intact, before he and his helpers gathered together the wreckage and piled it into its old place.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 116

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Grianan of Aileach, on the highest summit of the range that divides the eastern arm of Lough Swilly from the valley of the Foyle and the town of Derry, stands a circular fort of stonework on the top of Elagh mountain. It is the Grianan, the summer palace of Aileach. Three concentric ramparts of earth and stone enclose a ring of cyclopean masonry some 25 yards in diameter. The walls stand 18 feet high and over 12 feet thick at the base. Inside the great wall, from each side of the entrance gate, galleries run with exits onto the enclosure. This was the stronghold where the sons of Nial of the Nine Hostages established themselves. According to the legend in the Four Masters, the place took its name from a princess of Scotland, Aileach, described as "modest and blooming in Alba, till the loss of the Gael disturbed her." She followed Eoghad of the Hy-Nial over seas, and from the pair sprang sons who founded Ualriada, the kingdom of the Isles and the Antrim Coast. In later days Patrick came here and converted the chiefs, and there was no palace in Ireland more famous, until 1101, when Murtagh O'Brien, King of Munster, made a great raid into the North and demolished the home of the O'Neills. The fort as it stands has been restored by a zealous antiquary, Dr. Bernard of Derry. Marks made with tar show the point up to which the wall was intact before he and his helpers gathered together the wreckage and piled it into its old place.

33. Lord Leitrim's tyrannical estate management in Donegal

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1870–1878

    The third Lord Leitrim abolished the rundale system on his estates but enforced absolute landlord control, evicting tenants who sold tenant-right and raising rents on those who made improvements. His capricious cruelty, including forced replacement of livestock sires, made him widely hated; he refused charity to an evicted and starving family.

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    armed ; yet he lived to make old bones. He did his property the immense service of abolishing the old system of rundale, which less energetic landlords allowed to' nourish in all its weediness. But the whole trend of modern legislation, which since the Act of 1870, aims at giving the tenant an interest in his holding, ran counter to his seigneurial ideal. No sort of opposition was allowed to stand in his way ; if one man sold tenant-right to another his method was simple, to evict both. His violence of temper was such that he had been struck off the Magistracy as totally unfit to administer justice ; and to his tenants he was, in plain English, a tyrant. He was not an avaricious tyrant ; he did not want to extort unusually exorbitant rents j but he insisted that every man on his estate should hold his land absolutely at his landlord's pleasure. The very idea of a tenant having a right in improvements made at the tenant's own cost infuriated him, and in such cases he either raised the rent immediately, or ejected the man, to establish his supremacy. Nothing could be more characteristic of his tyranny, even in beneficence, than the step he took to improve the breed of sheep and cattle. He imported bulls and rams of choice breeds from Scotland, but he simultaneously, to enforce the improvement, made away with all the existing sires. Naturally he compensated their owners, but no one likes to be done good to by compulsion. Add to this imperious and arbitrary disposition a capricious temper with violent prejudices, and it is easy to see how horrible injustices were perpetrated. Eviction in that county meant often denial of the only means of livelihood. One family which had been turned out were starving and the clergyman of the parish went to intercede for help. " Sir," he said, " I would not give you a blanket to cover their bones." And thus, in April, 1878, when the news of his death came, it brought that surprise which is always occasioned when a thing long expected happens at the very last. Lord Leitrim was seventy-three when he was killed. What the immediate cause was, and whether it was a public or private feud, no one knows ;

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 110

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Donegal, you're in country that was once ruled by one of Ireland's most hated landlords. The third Lord Leitrim abolished the old rundale system on his estates, which was a real service, but he insisted every man hold his land absolutely at the landlord's pleasure. After the Act of 1870 aimed at giving tenants an interest in their holdings, he fought that trend completely. If a tenant sold tenant-right to another man, he evicted both. His violence of temper got him struck off the Magistracy as totally unfit to administer justice, and his tenants called him a tyrant. He was not avaricious and did not extort unusually high rents, but the idea of a tenant having rights over improvements made at the tenant's own cost infuriated him. He would raise the rent or eject the man to establish his supremacy. He imported choice bulls and rams from Scotland to improve breeds, but made away with all existing sires to enforce it, compensating owners whether they liked it or not. Eviction in that county often meant denial of the only means of livelihood. When one evicted family was starving, the parish clergyman went to intercede. Leitrim told him, "Sir, I would not give you a blanket to cover their bones." He was 73 when he was killed in April 1878. No one knows whether it was a public or private feud.

34. Shane O'Neill killed at Cushendun

    Cushendun · townland · Antrim · 1567

    In 1567, Shane O'Neill was defeated by O'Donnell and hemmed in. He turned to the Scots for help but was hacked to pieces at Cushendun, an event that left the Macdonnells directly face to face with the English.

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    Sorley is, Anglicised, Charles, but in reality it is an old Gaelic name, and was borne by Sorley's ancestor Somhairle or Somerled, who defended his lands in Argyll so strongly against the Danes in the eighth century. But Sorley Boy in Irish state papers is Carolus Flavus— yellow-haired Charles — and there is no want of mention of him. He was born in 1505 and lived till 1590 — a warrior till well past eighty. When Sorley became Lord of the Route in 1558, there were hard days for the Macdonnells. The English from 1530 onwards had become anxious to drive out these swarms of Scotch-Irish who poured in year by year ; and in Ulster itself there was the redoubtable Shane O'Neill determined to be lord paramount in the north. In 1563 Shane made peace with Elizabeth and turned on the Clandonnell. In 1564 he defeated them in a skirmish at Coleraine, and in 1565 utterly routed them at Ballycastle and took both Sorley and James, head of the clan. Marching northward, he came to Dunluce, which baffled him; but holding Sorley, he held the key of its gates, and swore to starve the chief if he were not given admission. So 6n that day Dunluce was surrendered. James Macdonnell died in prison and Sorley became head of the Irish branch of the clan. In 1567 he was released from captivity by the bloody death of Shane O'Neill, who, being defeated by O'Donnell and hemmed in, turned to the Scots for help but was hacked to pieces at Cushendun. His death left the Macdonnells directly face to face with the English Nevertheless there were not open hostilities at once. Elizabeth recognised Sorley as Lord of the Route and sent him a patent for his estates. But Sorley, receiving the parchment in Dunluce, swore that what had been won by the sword should never be kept by the sheepskin, and burnt the document before his retainers. In 157 1 Walter, Earl of Essex, set out to colonise Ulster, and by way of a lesson in civilisation invited the O'Neill chieftains to a banquet, and treacherously slaughtered them.

    xvi HIS SUBMISSION TO QUEEN ELIZABETH 239

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 158

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Cushendun, Shane O'Neill met his end in 1567. He was a man determined to be lord paramount in the north of Ireland. The English from 1530 onwards had been anxious to drive out the Macdonnells, who poured in year by year, and in Ulster there was Shane O'Neill. In 1563 he made peace with Elizabeth and turned on the Clandonnell. He defeated them in a skirmish at Coleraine in 1564, and in 1565 utterly routed them at Ballycastle, taking both Sorley Boy and James Macdonnell, the head of the clan. Marching northward, Shane came to Dunluce, which baffled him. But holding Sorley, he held the key to its gates, and swore to starve the chief if he were not given admission. Dunluce was surrendered that day. James Macdonnell died in prison. Sorley became head of the Irish branch of the clan. Then in 1567, Shane was defeated by O'Donnell and hemmed in. He turned to the Scots for help, but was hacked to pieces at Cushendun. His bloody death released Sorley from captivity. It left the Macdonnells directly face to face with the English. Elizabeth recognised Sorley as Lord of the Route and sent him a patent for his estates. Sorley, receiving the parchment in Dunluce, swore that

35. Sons of Usnach lodged in the Red Branch

    near Navan · monument · Armagh

    Upon arriving at Emain Macha, the sons of Usnach were lodged by King Conor in the mansion of the Red Branch rather than the main hall, which Deirdre recognized as a sign of treachery. She urged them to flee but they refused out of pride.

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    Then they came to the gate, and they struck a loud stroke with the wooden knocker. The doorkeeper asked them " Who was there ? " and they said, " the three sons of Usnach, with Deirdre and the two sens of Fergus." Then Conor bade them be lodged in the mansion of the Red Branch, and Deirdre still pressed them to fly. " That we will not," says Ulan, " for no cowardice or unmanliness has been known of us, and we will go to the Red Branch." Meat and wine were set before them, and after they had their fill Naisi said, " Bring now the chessboard that we may play." And Conor in his hall asked, " Whom now shall I find to bring me word if her own shape and features still live on Deirdre ? for if her own form live in her, there is no woman more beautiful in the world." " I will go," said Lavaicam, Deirdres nurse, "and bring you tidings,"' Then she came and found Naisi and Deirdre playing at the chess, and she kissed them lovingly ; but, said she, *"* You do ill to be playing on this chessboard, the thing which Conor most grieves the loss of, save of Deirdre alone ; and it is to inquire after the beauty of Deirdre I am come, if it still live on her ; and an evil deed is to be done this night in Eman, treachery and murder. " Then she bade them make fast the doors and windows, and exhorted the sons of Fergus to be faithful to their charge, and she went back to the king.

    " What news have you ? " said he.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 170

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Navan, the sons of Usnach were lodged in the Red Branch, the great mansion of King Conor at Emain Macha. They had come to the gate and struck a loud stroke with the wooden knocker. The doorkeeper asked who was there, and they told him: the three sons of Usnach, with Deirdre and the two sons of Fergus. Conor bade them be lodged in the mansion of the Red Branch, and Deirdre still pressed them to fly. "That we will not," said Ulan, "for no cowardice or unmanliness has been known of us, and we will go to the Red Branch." Meat and wine were set before them, and after they had their fill, Naisi said to bring the chessboard that they might play. Conor in his hall asked whom he could send to bring word whether her own shape and features still lived on Deirdre, for if her own form lived in her, there was no woman more beautiful in the world. Lavaicam, Deirdre's nurse, said she would go and bring tidings. She came and found Naisi and Deirdre playing chess, and kissed them lovingly. But she told them they did ill to play on that chessboard, the thing Conor most grieved the loss of, save Deirdre alone. She said she had come to inquire after the beauty of Deirdre, and that an evil deed was to be done that night in Emain, treachery and murder. She bade them make fast the doors and windows, and exhorted the sons of Fergus to be faithful to their charge. Then she went back to the king, and he asked, "What news have you?"

36. Three Armada ships wrecked on Streedagh Strand

    Streedagh · townland · Sligo · 1588

    Three great ships of the Spanish Armada went ashore on Streedagh Strand between Sligo and Bundoran. Later, the Lord Deputy Fitzwilliam found the strand littered with twelve or thirteen hundred dead corpses, shattered timbers, boats, cordage, and huge masts.

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    the coast of Tyrconnell would have met a very different reception; but Ireland had not yet been driven to hold that her best friends were the enemies of England. Three great ships went ashore on Streedagh Strand between Sligo and Bundoran. Another, the Rata, under Don Alonzo de Leyva, broke loose from her anchors and ran ashore ; but her crew were hospitably sheltered by O'Rourke. of Brefny, till they embarked again upon another vessel, the San Martin, which had been able to hold out in the offing. They met the Girona, and Duquesa Sta. Anna, and made their escape northwards, the wind being still westerly : but the three were obliged to put into Killybegs when the ships again foundered, but the crews — 2,000 in number — got ashore with their arms. Here they obtained fresh stores, and a welcome from MacSwiney of Banaght, lord of this country : and having managed to patch up two of their vessels they again put to sea, abandoning the San Martin. The Duquesa Sta. Anna, however, had no better fortune ; she ran upon the rocks in Glennagaveny Bay, west of Inishowen Head. De Leyva, escaping from her, made his way to the Girona, which lay at anchor in Mulroy or Sheephaven. After a week's labour upon her to make her seaworthy, he and the remnant of three crews, stood out to make the coast of Scotland, where there was some chance of friendship ; but, hugging the Antrim coast, near the Giant's Causeway, ran on a rock and perished. Sorley Boy Macdonell, Lord of Dunluce, came to the rescue, but recovered only five of the crew, certain butts of wine, and three pieces of cannon, which he mounted on his castle and refused to give up. Another wreck occurred at a neighbouring point, and eleven of this second crew found shelter with Sorley Boy, who eventually despatched them over to Scotland.

    Another ship of the first class, La Trinidad Valencera, went on shore in the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen. A large number of the crew succeeded in landing, and were tolerably

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Streedagh, three great ships of the Spanish Armada went ashore on the strand between Sligo and Bundoran in 1588. The Lord Deputy Fitzwilliam later found the beach littered with twelve or thirteen hundred dead corpses, shattered timbers, boats, cordage, and huge masts. Not every Armada crew perished on these shores. Another ship, the Rata, under Don Alonzo de Leyva, broke loose from her anchors and ran ashore. Her crew were hospitably sheltered by O'Rourke of Brefny, until they embarked again upon the San Martin, which had been able to hold out in the offing. They met the Girona and the Duquesa Sta. Anna, and made their escape northwards, the wind being still westerly. But the three were obliged to put into Killybegs when the ships again foundered. The crews, 2,000 in number, got ashore with their arms. At Killybegs they obtained fresh stores and a welcome from MacSwiney of Banaght, lord of that country. Having patched up two of their vessels, they put to sea again, abandoning the San Martin. The Duquesa Sta. Anna ran upon the rocks in Glennagaveny Bay, west of Inishowen Head. De Leyva, escaping from her, made his way to the Girona, which lay at anchor in Mulroy or Sheephaven. After a week's labour to make her seaworthy, he and the remnant of three crews stood out for the coast of Scotland, where there was some chance of friendship. But hugging the Antrim coast near the Giant's Causeway, they ran on a rock and perished. Sorley Boy Macdonell, Lord of Dunluce, came to the rescue, but recovered only five of the crew, certain butts of wine, and three pieces of cannon, which he mounted on his castle and refused to give up. Another wreck occurred at a neighbouring point, and eleven of that crew found shelter with Sorley Boy, who eventually despatched them over to Scotland.

37. O'Donnell inauguration stone at Rock of Doon

    Doon · townland · Donegal

    The Rock of Doon was where the O'Donnells were proclaimed lords of Tyrconnell. Each chieftain stood before his clan with feet set in footprints hewn into the inauguration stone, marking where the first chief of Tyrconnell had stood. The stone's fate is unknown—some say it was stolen, others that it was broken up like the O'Neills' stone at Tullaghogue.

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    The historic associations have something also of this legendary vagueness. Here was .the place where the O'Donnells were proclaimed lords of Tyrconnell ; here was the stone of inauguration where each chieftain was bound to stand before his clan, with feet set in the footprints hewn into the stone where the first chief of Tyrconnell had taken his station. The ceremony was performed by the Coarb or successor of Columbkille in the Abbey of Kilmacrenan ; and this succession remained in the family of the O'Ferghails, or Freels, who like Columbkille himself descended from Niall the Ardri. To this family Father Freel belonged, who consecrated the Well.

    So much is certain. But no one knows what has become of the inauguration stone, which, according to the Four Masters, was kept in the abbey ; whether, as some say, it was stolen, or, as others hold, it was broken up, as was the inauguration stone of the O'Neills at Tullaghogue. Accounts differ also as to the ritual of the ceremony. Giraldas Cambrensis, the Welshman who accompanied King John to Ireland, has left a wonderful story.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the Rock of Doon, where the O'Donnells were proclaimed lords of Tyrconnell. Each chieftain who took power had to stand before his clan with his feet set in footprints hewn into the inauguration stone, the same marks where the first chief of Tyrconnell had taken his station. The ceremony was performed by the Coarb, the successor of Columbkille, from the Abbey of Kilmacrenan. That office stayed in the family of the O'Ferghails, or Freels, who like Columbkille himself descended from Niall the Ardri. Father Freel, who consecrated the Well, belonged to this same family. What is certain ends there. No one knows what has become of the inauguration stone. According to the Four Masters it was kept in the abbey. Some say it was stolen. Others hold that it was broken up, as the inauguration stone of the O'Neills at Tullaghogue was broken up. The stone itself is gone, and its fate is uncertain.

38. Battle of the Windmill Hill at Bishop's Gate

    Windmill Hill · street · Cork · 1689

    On May 5th, Hamilton attacked Windmill Hill crowned by Bishop's Gate, drawing a trench from bog to river. A simultaneous sally from Ferryquay Gate and Bishop's Gate on the night of the 6th drove the enemy out, capturing flags now preserved in the cathedral.

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    Be that as it may, there is no doubt about the siege. The enemy encamped in four divisions about the town commanding the roads of access. The defenders were divided into eight regiments two to each of the four quarters. The siege was practically a blockade from the first ; no serious assault was ever made on the walls : and there was no cannon in the Irish army heavy enough to batter them. The enemy's headquarters were out towards Culmore; here Maumont, whom James in withdrawing left in command, was encamped: and the besieged did not leave them long in idleness. On the 21st a party under Colonel Murray sallied out, and in the action had the extraordinary good fortune tokill the enemy's commander-in-chief: though Maumont fell by a bullet wound and not, as is related, by Murray's sword. His command devolved on Richard Hamilton. Meanwhile the inhabitants from the wall about Shipquay gate watched this first trial of forces. In the first week of the siege the fighting was chiefly on the north east side ; cannon were planted outside the gate which knocked about the houses, exposed by the rising ground, but did little other damage. On the 5th of May a more serious attempt was made from the west side upon the Windmill Hill which is crowned by Bishop's Gate. Hamilton drew a trench from the bog to the river and established a battery: but on the night of the 6th a sally was made simultaneously from Ferryquay Gate and Bishop's Gate, and the enemy were driven out with loss. It was in this engagement that the flags preserved in the cathedral were taken and an inscription under a window in the south chancel aisle commemorates it. From this onward the besieged held a space about 250 yards wide defended by a trench along the Windmill Hill and outside the walls. On June 4th the whole line of this entrenchment was assaulted and there ensued what is called the Battle of the Windmill Hill. The Irish horse

    224

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 146

    As the companion tells it

    This is Windmill Hill, crowned by Bishop's Gate. In 1689, the enemy encamped in four divisions about the town, commanding the roads of access. The defenders were divided into eight regiments, two to each quarter. The siege was practically a blockade from the first. No serious assault was ever made on the walls, and there was no cannon in the Irish army heavy enough to batter them. The enemy's headquarters were out towards Culmore, where Maumont, whom James had left in command, was encamped. On the 21st, a party under Colonel Murray sallied out, and in the action had the extraordinary good fortune to kill the enemy's commander-in-chief. Maumont fell by a bullet wound, not by Murray's sword. His command devolved on Richard Hamilton. In the first week of the siege, the fighting was chiefly on the north east side. Cannon were planted outside Shipquay gate, which knocked about the houses exposed by the rising ground, but did little other damage. On the 5th of May, a more serious attempt was made from the west side upon Windmill Hill. Hamilton drew a trench from the bog to the river and established a battery. But on the night of the 6th, a sally was made simultaneously from Ferryquay Gate and Bishop's Gate, and the enemy were driven out with loss. It was in this engagement that the flags preserved in the cathedral were taken, and an inscription under a window in the south chancel aisle commemorates it. From this onward, the besieged held a space about 250 yards wide, defended by a trench along the Windmill Hill and outside the walls. On June 4th, the whole line of this entrenchment was assaulted, and there ensued what is called the Battle of the Windmill Hill.

39. Columba's Birthstone at Gartan

    Bellville or Gartan · townland · Donegal

    At Gartan, on a slope overlooking the upper lake, a great flagstone is shown where St. Columba's mother, Princess Ethne, made her bed when giving birth. The stone bears dints said to be from her hands and knees, and tradition holds that whoever sleeps on it will never suffer homesickness, prompting many emigrants to America to try the remedy.

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    But at Gartan there are no memories of Columba's diplomatisings and bickerings ; only memories of his sanctity. They show you, on a slope that overlooks the upper lake from the north, a great flagstone where his mother, the Princess Ethne, made her bed when he was born : the dints are in it yet of her hands and knees. Ethne was too great a lady in her day to have had so rough a couch • but the stone is honoured in tradition, and they say that whoever sleeps on it will never know home-sickness. Many a man starting for America has tried the remedy that was to keep him from the torment that people in Ulster call " thinking long " ; but I doubt it has not helped them, The place of real worship is the "station" of St. Columba above the upper lake, Lough Akibbon. There at least you must go : not that there is much to see ; a graveyard on the hillside, carefully walled in, and a tiny chapel that could never have held fifty people, roofless now, and its east window that once showed ornament, blown in lately by a storm. But the day I went there an old woman was on her knees before the ruined altar, and when she had finished her devotions she showed the " good stone " — from which she said Columbkille gave out holy water. It had certainly been hollowed for some sacred use, though likely enough Columba never saw it. But the memory of his name was then as living as the faith that brought this old woman to step aside on her day's errand to kneel at the place he had hallowed. In the graveyard, they told me, Protestants and Catholics alike were buried, where no quarrellings disturb them. They sleep there quiet and wholesome on the green hillside, with the lovely lake below them. In the very centre stands a new and conspicuous monument, ugly enough indeed, but costly. Some one in Wilmington of the United States erected it in memory of his father and mother, natives of that parish. There you have the very spirit of this country. Hard and stubborn as the soil is, ungrateful

    H 2

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 65

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Bellville or Gartan, there is a great flagstone on a slope overlooking the upper lake. This is Columba's Birthstone, where tradition says St. Columba's mother, the Princess Ethne, made her bed when she gave birth to him. The stone still bears the dints of her hands and knees. Ethne was too great a lady in her day to have had so rough a couch, but the stone is honoured in tradition. They say that whoever sleeps on it will never know homesickness. Many a man starting for America tried the remedy, hoping it would spare them the torment that people in Ulster call "thinking long." But the writer of the account doubted it helped them. The place of real worship, he goes on, is the station of St. Columba above the upper lake, Lough Akibbon. There is a graveyard on the hillside, walled in, and a tiny roofless chapel that could never have held fifty people. Its east window, once ornamented, was blown in by a storm. The day the writer went there, an old woman knelt before the ruined altar. When she finished her devotions she showed the good stone, from which she said Columbkille gave out holy water. It had been hollowed for some sacred use, though Columba himself likely never saw it. In the graveyard, Protestants and Catholics alike are buried, and no quarrelling disturbs them. A new monument stands in the centre, erected by someone in Wilmington in the United States in memory of his father and mother, natives of that parish.

40. Cuellar finds refuge at MacClancy's Castle on Lough Melvin

    near Lough Melvin · lake or lakes · Fermanagh · 1588

    After being wrecked, Cuellar met a Latin-speaking priest who directed him to MacClancy's Castle on Lough Melvin. There he found ten other Spaniards and contrived to obtain special favour by telling fortunes to the ladies of the castle, who also understood Latin.

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    Cuellar, having fallen behind the others and lost his way, met a Latin-speaking priest, who directed him to MacClaney's Castle, on Lough Melvin, and after some difficulty he got there and found ten other Spaniards, but contrived to obtain special favour by telling fortunes to the ladies of the castle, who, it would appear, also understood the Latin tongue.

    Cuellar stayed for three months with MacClancy, a refractory chief living in a difficult country, and he has left a curious description of native manners and customs.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 37

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Melvin is the lake the road passes near. In 1588, after being wrecked, Cuellar fell behind the others and lost his way. He met a Latin-speaking priest who directed him to MacClancy's Castle on this lake. After some difficulty he got there and found ten other Spaniards. He contrived to obtain special favour by telling fortunes to the ladies of the castle, who also understood the Latin tongue. Cuellar stayed for three months with MacClancy, a refractory chief living in a difficult country.

41. Dr. Hastings' wedding fee prank at Kilmacrenan

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal

    At Kilmacrenan church, Dr. Hastings stopped a wedding service to demand a half-sovereign fee from a notoriously close-fisted bridegroom. After terrifying the man, Hastings relented on condition the money be spent on a new dress for the bride.

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    places confronting him, and the service began, when suddenly the Doctor stopped and said to the bridegroom, who had a name of being close-fisted, "There's a matter of money you know, that's due to me this day: have you it with you?" This was a fee of half a sovereign which Dr. Hastings never thought of exacting. The bridegroom was confounded. "Sure, your reverence, I never thought to bring it: I'll send it to your reverence the first thing." " Have you it with you ? " said the Doctor. "No, your reverence." "Then," said Dr Hastings with a grave face, " not a one of you will I marry to day ; " and with that he shut the book and walked away towards the vestry. The bridegroom who had the neighbours all invited and the refreshments ready was in a terrible way and clamoured entreaties, but Dr. Hastings walked on regardless. Then, just as he reached the vestry door he turned round. " Well, now," he said, " if I forgive you and marry you to-day, will you promise me one thing?" "Anything, your reverence, anything in the world." "Will you mind now and take the money that's owing to me and buy a new dress for your wife ? " The unfortunate man was only too glad to promise, but Dr. Hastings heaped threats upon him in case he should go back on his word, before he would go on with the service and marry them off. All this was done with the utmost gravity and seriousness, to the wild delight of my friend, who sat chuckling in his pew. But imagine a scene like that in the Church of Ireland to-day !

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Kilmacrenan in Donegal had a church where Dr. Hastings once turned a wedding into a lesson. The service had begun when the Doctor stopped and turned to the bridegroom, a man with a name for being close-fisted. "There's a matter of money you know, that's due to me this day: have you it with you?" It was a fee of half a sovereign, one Dr. Hastings never thought of exacting. The bridegroom was confounded. He said he had never thought to bring it and would send it first thing. The Doctor asked again if he had it with him. The man said no. "Then," said Dr. Hastings with a grave face, "not a one of you will I marry today." He shut the book and walked towards the vestry. The bridegroom had all the neighbours invited and the refreshments ready. He was in a terrible way and clamoured entreaties, but the Doctor walked on regardless. Just as he reached the vestry door he turned round. He said if he forgave the man and married them that day, would he promise one thing. The bridegroom said anything in the world. Dr. Hastings told him to take the money owing and buy a new dress for his wife. The unfortunate man was only too glad to promise. But Dr. Hastings heaped threats upon him in case he went back on his word before he would go on with the service and marry them off. All this was done with the utmost gravity and seriousness, to the wild delight of a friend who sat chuckling in his pew.

42. Killing of District-Inspector Martin at Derrybeg, 1889

    near Derrybeg · town · Donegal · 1889

    On Sunday 2 February 1889, Father Macfadden was arrested by District-Inspector Martin outside Derrybeg chapel after mass. The congregation of Gweedore men attacked the police, and Martin was battered to death by the mob, his skull beaten to a pulp.

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    warrant did not admit of seizing him in his own house. On Sunday, February 2nd, however, Father Macfadden determined to celebrate mass, thinking probably that the authorities would not risk so unpopular a measure as his arrest in the chapel. Five hundred soldiers were at Gweedore. In the Derrybeg school-house, two hundred yards from the chapel, on the ground above the stream to the right, were eighty police under the county inspector. From the east of the chapel a private path leads uphill to the priest's house, and during service District- Inspector Martin was sent down with eight men, to take up a position on this path. Father Macfadden came out of the chapel, still wearing the robes in which he had officiated — not less sacrosanct in the eyes of his congregation than the very elements of the mass themselves. He was immediately arrested by Inspector Martin, and demanded to see the warrant; the congregation of peasants, at least a hundred of these wild Gweedore men, gathered round, and when the sergeant tried to force the priest up the hill, they broke out, tore stakes out of the palings, and attacked the police. The inspector was separated from his men, the sergeant with Father Macfadden was in front, and Mr. Martin managed for some time to keep the crowd at bay with his sword. He shouted to his men to fire, but they were already at hand-grips. Much has been made of the fact that Mr. Martin left his revolver behind, " for fear he should be tempted to use it." It would have been a wiser prudence to bring down an overwhelming force. The whole thing passed so quickly that there was no time for word to go up to the force at the school-house. Mr. Martin, turning for a moment, was struck down from behind. Stones were flying, and Father Macfadden's sister opened the door hurriedly to let him in, and was herself shut out, to see the unfortunate inspector being battered to death by an infuriated mob, who beat his skull literally into a pulp. The crowd drew back from the body when their priest shouted to them from an open window, but the work was done.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    Derrybeg, in Donegal, is where a killing happened on Sunday, 2 February 1889. Father Macfadden had been wanted by the authorities, and on that morning he decided to celebrate mass at Derrybeg chapel, thinking they would not arrest him there. He was wrong. Five hundred soldiers were stationed at Gweedore, and eighty police waited in the Derrybeg school-house, two hundred yards from the chapel. During the service, District-Inspector Martin was sent with eight men to a private path leading from the east of the chapel uphill to the priest's house. When Father Macfadden came out, still wearing his robes, Inspector Martin arrested him. The priest demanded to see the warrant. The congregation of Gweedore men, at least a hundred of them, gathered round, and when the sergeant tried to force the priest up the hill, they broke out, tore stakes from the palings, and attacked the police. Martin was separated from his men. He kept the crowd at bay with his sword for some time and shouted to his men to fire, but they were already at hand-grips. He had left his revolver behind, "for fear he should be tempted to use it." The whole thing passed so quickly that there was no time for word to reach the force at the school-house. Martin, turning for a moment, was struck down from behind. Stones were flying. Father Macfadden's sister opened the door hurriedly to let the priest in, and was herself shut out, to see the inspector being battered to death by the mob, who beat his skull literally into a pulp. The crowd drew back from the body when their priest shouted to them from an open window, but the work was done.

43. Lord George Hill's grain store at Bunbeg

    Bunbeg · town · Donegal · 1846–1847

    Lord George Hill built a grain store at the port of Bunbeg, where the Clady river flows into the sea, to suppress illicit whisky-making by giving people an alternative to distillation. During the famine of 1846–47, Government leased the building as a food depot, keeping the remote population alive.

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    I have quoted this singular document in extenso not only because Lord George vouches for its accuracy, but because it gives a clear picture of what must have existed in the backward parts of Ireland, everywhere that the population relied solely on the potato. A certain number of the features remain constant. Ploughs are still probably scarce because the land is so rocky and fields so small. Scythes are not used, but in those days even the sickle seems to have been absent. Bare feet are still common ; and Donegal is one of the few places where a woman may yet be seen riding pillion behind her man. It is, however, an increasingly rare spectacle. But the whole condition of the peasantry is changed, as any one may see with a glance. Paddy M'Kye's list will be useful to any observer who thinks . them wretched at present. Poor enough they are, Heaven knows ! but Gweedore is a paradise to what Lord George Hill found it. It was even then a notoriously uncivilised district ; to cross the border was accounted an adventure, and to visit a fair in it required an escort. For the change it would be wrong to give the credit wholly to external agencies. The Irish people have been busily improving themselves since the schoolmaster was abroad, and if neither Lord George nor any other benevolent individual had helped, the countryside would still be very different from its misery of fifty or sixty years back. Still, it is at least equally certain that the improvement would have come more slowly but for Lord George ; it is by no means certain that without him it would have reached its present stage. Moreover, one of his early acts was to build a grain store at the port of Bunbeg, where the Clady river flows into the sea. The object of this was to put down the illicit whisky-making which was almost a necessity to the people. By the time they had taken their corn to the nearest market, they were almost obliged to take what they were offered rather than waste a journey of fifty miles ; whereas distillation paid better and was conducted on the spot. There was, per contra, the risk of seizure, which meant heavy

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bunbeg in Donegal, you are passing the port where the Clady river meets the sea. Lord George Hill built a grain store here, and it changed this place twice over. When he first came to Gweedore, it was a notoriously uncivilised district. To cross the border was accounted an adventure, and to visit a fair in it required an escort. The peasantry lived in a misery hard to picture now. Paddy M'Kye's list of their condition gives the measure of it. The people relied on the potato, ploughs were scarce because the land was so rocky and fields so small, scythes were not used and even the sickle seems to have been absent, and bare feet were common. One of Lord George's early acts was to build the grain store at this port. His object was to put down the illicit whisky-making which was almost a necessity to the people. The trouble was this. By the time they had taken their corn to the nearest market, they were almost obliged to take what they were offered rather than waste a journey of fifty miles. Distillation paid better and was conducted on the spot. There was, on the other hand, the risk of seizure, which meant heavy penalties. The store gave them an alternative, a place to bring grain without the long journey. Then in the famine of 1846 to 1847, the Government leased the building as a food depot, and it kept the remote population alive. Gweedore is a paradise to what Lord George Hill found it, and this store at Bunbeg was one of the first things he did.

44. MacSwiney of Fanad's coshering custom

    near Fanad · locality · Donegal · 1587

    Birmingham sailed into Rathmullan because he had learned that Owen Oge of the Battle-axes planned to visit MacSwiney of Fanad, on whom the head of the MacSwineys came to 'cosher'—demanding free quarters for a period as was his right. The visit brought a great retinue of harpers, story-tellers, bards, huntsmen and hawkers.

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    How was Perrott to come by his pledge ? The story is told in the beginning of Mr. Standish O'Grady's vivid narrative The Flight of the Eagle, a book which brings Elizabethan Ireland really to life again ; and from it I must condense my narrative. On May 2nd, 1587, Perrott wrote to Elizabeth and her Council : " For O'Donnell, if it would please her Majesty to appoint me to go thither, I will make him and his Mac- Sweenies deliver in what pledges I list. Otherwise, if it please her Majesty, I could take himself, his wife, who is a great bringer-in of Scots, and perhaps his son Hugh Roe (Red Hugh) by sending them a boat with wines." In plain English, Perrott proposed sending an army to coerce O'Donnell, or as an alternative, a kidnapping expedition ; and Elizabeth promptly decided for the kidnapping. It was found presumably that Hugh Roe was the easier object, and accordingly in September, 1587, a big merchantman sailed up Lough Svvilly, and cast anchor opposite Rathmullen. Her master was George Dudall, but the gentleman who appeared as her owner and announced that he came with a cargo of choice wines, was in reality Captain Birmingham of her Majesty's forces. And the reason why he sailed into Rathmullen was that he had heard of a visit purposed by Owen Oge of the Battle-axes to MacSwiney of Fanad, on whom the head of the MacSwineys came to " cosher " or demand free quarters for a period, according to his right. Birmingham had been trading freely and generously for some days, when in came Owen of the Battle-axes at the head of a great retinue. " Harpers rode there, their sheathed instruments of harmony slung behind their backs, or borne by attendants ; story-tellers to beguile the intervals of feasting and music with fragments of ancient epic, and shed a glamour of the romance of old over the tame familiar facts of the present. There rode Owen Oge's bard, who composed poems in his praise, and the professional rhapsodists who recited them, for the bard proper was a silent man ; he composed, but sung not.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 118

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through or near Fanad in Donegal. In 1587, this was MacSwiney country, and the head of the MacSwineys had an old right: he could come to a kinsman's house and demand free quarters for a period. They called it coshering. Earlier that year, on May 2nd, 1587, Perrott wrote to Elizabeth and her Council proposing to take O'Donnell, his wife, and perhaps his son Hugh Roe by sending them a boat with wines. Elizabeth decided for the kidnapping. In September, a big merchantman sailed up Lough Swilly and anchored opposite Rathmullan. Her master was George Dudall, but the man who appeared as her owner and announced a cargo of choice wines was Captain Birmingham of her Majesty's forces. Birmingham sailed into Rathmullan because he had learned that Owen Oge of the Battle-axes planned to visit MacSwiney of Fanad, on whom the head of the MacSwineys came to cosher, demanding free quarters as his right. He traded freely and generously for some days. Then Owen Oge arrived at the head of a great retinue. Harpers rode there, their sheathed instruments slung behind their backs or borne by attendants. Story-tellers came to beguile the intervals of feasting and music with fragments of ancient epic. There rode Owen Oge's bard, who composed poems in his praise, and professional rhapsodists who recited them, for the bard proper was a silent man. He composed, but sang not.

45. Monks of Assaroe inter a slain O'Brien

    Assaroe · waterfall · Donegal

    The monks of Assaroe found the body of a slain O'Brien descendant of Brian Boru and interred it. The Franciscan friars of Donegal claimed the O'Briens as their own and persuaded Red Hugh O'Donnell to have the body reinterred with them.

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    the plates of his armour, by a ball, and fell into the river. The monks of Assaroe found his body and interred it ; but the Franciscan friars of Donegal insisted that the O'Briens were always buried in their houses, and appealed to have the body lifted and interred with them, which was done by Red Hugh's order; so great was the contention for the bones of a descendant of Brian Boru. Clifford having crossed the Erne marched down the right bank to Assaroe, and on the same day a ship from Galway bringing ordnance for his support put into Inis-saimer, or Fish Island. The troops then took up a position on Mullaghnashee (the hill on which the parish church stands) and planted their guns there. Probably one of the Four Masters saw the scene, so eloquent is his description.

    " On Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday they continued to fire, shooting at the castle with heavy loud-sounding fiery balls from the loud-roaring shot-vomiting guns of that heavy and huge ordnance which they planted opposite the fortress. They sent large parties of their choicest soldiers to the castle with wallrazing engines and with thick and strong iron armour about their bodies and bright shining helmets on their heads with a bright 1 testudo ' of round broad hard iron shields around them to protect them from the shot of their enemies. The resolute attack they made upon the fortress, however, was of no avail to them; and it had been better for them that they had not come this journey against it ; for from the castle were poured down upon them showers of brilliant fire from well-planted straightaimed guns and from costly muskets and some rough-headed rocks and massive solid stones and beams and blocks of timber which were kept on the battlements of the fortress in readiness to be hurled down ; so that the coverings of the razing party wTere of no shelter or protection to them and great numbers of them were destroyed, and others who were severely wounded became so exhausted that they delayed not to be further slaughtered, and turning their backs to their enemies they were routed to the camp."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    This is Assaroe, where monks once found a slain man in the river. He was an O'Brien, a descendant of Brian Boru. He had been struck in the plates of his armour by a ball and fell into the water. The monks of Assaroe found his body and interred it. But the Franciscan friars of Donegal insisted that the O'Briens were always buried in their houses, and they appealed to have the body lifted and interred with them. Red Hugh O'Donnell gave the order, and it was done. So great was the contention for the bones of a descendant of Brian Boru. Not long after, Clifford crossed the Erne and marched down the right bank to Assaroe. On the same day a ship from Galway bringing ordnance for his support put into Inis-saimer, or Fish Island. The troops took up a position on Mullaghnashee, the hill on which the parish church stands, and planted their guns there. One of the Four Masters may have seen it himself. He wrote that on Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday they continued to fire, shooting at the castle with heavy loud-sounding fiery balls from the loud-roaring guns of that huge ordnance planted opposite the fortress. They sent large parties of their choicest soldiers with wall-razing engines, thick iron armour about their bodies, bright shining helmets on their heads, and a bright testudo of round broad hard iron shields to protect them from the shot of their enemies. The resolute attack they made upon the fortress was of no avail. From the castle were poured down upon them showers of brilliant fire from well-placed guns and costly muskets, and rough-headed rocks and massive stones and beams and blocks of timber hurled from the battlements. Great numbers of them were destroyed. Others, severely wounded and exhausted, delayed not to be further slaughtered. Turning their backs to their enemies, they were routed to the camp.

46. Shane O'Neill routs the Macdonnells at Ballycastle

    near Ballycastle · town · Antrim · 1565

    In 1565, Shane O'Neill utterly routed the Macdonnells at Ballycastle, capturing both Sorley Boy Macdonnell and James, head of the clan. James died in prison and Sorley became head of the Irish branch of the clan.

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    Sorley is, Anglicised, Charles, but in reality it is an old Gaelic name, and was borne by Sorley's ancestor Somhairle or Somerled, who defended his lands in Argyll so strongly against the Danes in the eighth century. But Sorley Boy in Irish state papers is Carolus Flavus— yellow-haired Charles — and there is no want of mention of him. He was born in 1505 and lived till 1590 — a warrior till well past eighty. When Sorley became Lord of the Route in 1558, there were hard days for the Macdonnells. The English from 1530 onwards had become anxious to drive out these swarms of Scotch-Irish who poured in year by year ; and in Ulster itself there was the redoubtable Shane O'Neill determined to be lord paramount in the north. In 1563 Shane made peace with Elizabeth and turned on the Clandonnell. In 1564 he defeated them in a skirmish at Coleraine, and in 1565 utterly routed them at Ballycastle and took both Sorley and James, head of the clan. Marching northward, he came to Dunluce, which baffled him; but holding Sorley, he held the key of its gates, and swore to starve the chief if he were not given admission. So 6n that day Dunluce was surrendered. James Macdonnell died in prison and Sorley became head of the Irish branch of the clan. In 1567 he was released from captivity by the bloody death of Shane O'Neill, who, being defeated by O'Donnell and hemmed in, turned to the Scots for help but was hacked to pieces at Cushendun. His death left the Macdonnells directly face to face with the English Nevertheless there were not open hostilities at once. Elizabeth recognised Sorley as Lord of the Route and sent him a patent for his estates. But Sorley, receiving the parchment in Dunluce, swore that what had been won by the sword should never be kept by the sheepskin, and burnt the document before his retainers. In 157 1 Walter, Earl of Essex, set out to colonise Ulster, and by way of a lesson in civilisation invited the O'Neill chieftains to a banquet, and treacherously slaughtered them.

    xvi HIS SUBMISSION TO QUEEN ELIZABETH 239

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 158

    As the companion tells it

    Ballycastle is the town you pass through or near on this road, and in 1565 it was the field of a reckoning between two powers of the north. Sorley Boy Macdonnell was Lord of the Route from 1558, a warrior born in 1505 who would live until 1590, fighting well past eighty. His name Sorley is the Anglicised Charles, but it is an old Gaelic name, going back to his ancestor Somhairle, or Somerled, who held his lands in Argyll against the Danes in the eighth century. In the Irish state papers Sorley Boy is Carolus Flavus, yellow-haired Charles. When Sorley became Lord of the Route, hard days came for the Macdonnells. The English had been anxious since 1530 to drive out the Scotch-Irish pouring in year by year, and in Ulster Shane O'Neill was determined to be lord paramount in the north. In 1563 Shane made peace with Elizabeth and turned on the Macdonnells. In 1564 he defeated them in a skirmish at Coleraine. Then in 1565 he utterly routed them at Ballycastle and took both Sorley and James, head of the clan. Marching northward, Shane came to Dunluce, which baffled him. But holding Sorley, he held the key of its gates, and swore to starve the chief if he were not given admission. That day Dunluce was surrendered. James Macdonnell died in prison and Sorley became head of the Irish branch of the clan. In 1567 Sorley was released by the bloody death of Shane O'Neill, who was defeated by O'Donnell, turned to the Scots for help, and was hacked to pieces at Cushendun.

47. Shane O'Neill's body buried at Glenarm

    near Glenarm · village · Antrim · 1567

    After Shane O'Neill's murder, his body was wrapped 'for lack of a better shroud, in a keene's old shirt' and buried at Glenarm, the home of the Macdonnell chief. The O'Neills sent to beg that he might rest with his own kin, but the abbot of the monastery refused.

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    English for his overthrow. He had thoughts at first of going to the Lord Deputy at Dundalk with a halter round his neck ; but he bethought him of Sorley Boy and offered freedom and friendship to the chief of the Ulster Scots. At Sorley's advice, as it would seem, he arranged to meet Alexander Og Macdonnell, a surviving brother, who with his levies was encamped on the hill slope north-west of Cushendun. Here Shane came bringing Sorley with , him, and whether the Macdonnells meant fairly by him or no it would be hard to say. There were two days' banqueting, and in the revels Shane's secretary made a rash speech. Shane, he said, was of a mind to marry James MacdonnelPs wife, whom he still kept in his power, and the lady was willing. The Macdonnells swore it was a foul lie that their chief's wife would match with the man who had done to death her husband. The secretary, in Shane's own temper, said that the O'Neill was a match good enough for the Queen of Scots herself ; and Shane, on hearing the debate, struck in and spoke to the same purpose with such arrogance that in a minute dirks were out, and, once the work begun, the Scotch hacked to pieces this scourge of their clan. His mangled body was flung into a pit, but a certain wise Englishman of the nearest garrison, hearing of the result, sent to have the head cut off, pickled it, and sent it to the Lord Deputy with a claim for the thousand pounds that had been set upon it. Fitzwilliam wrote, exulting in the consummation, but wishing to God that the traitor's end had been more in accordance with his desert. The daggers, to his thinking, had done their work too quickly ; and all he could do was to hoist the great Shane's head and leave it to blacken — where so many Irish heads had blackened and were still to blacken — over the gate of Dublin Castle. The Macdonnells were more civilised than this English noble in their vengeance. Shane's body, wrapped, " for lack of a better shroud, in a keene's old shirt," was miserably interred at Glenarm, the home of the Macdonnell chief. The O'Neills sent to beg that this great shaker of Ulster might rest with his own kin. But the abbot of the monastery answered, " Have

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 178

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Glenarm, you are passing near the grave of Shane O'Neill, who died in 1567. Shane had been the scourge of the Macdonnell clan, and after his overthrow he sought out the Ulster Scots. He came, bringing Sorley Boy with him, to meet Alexander Og Macdonnell on the hill slope north-west of Cushendun. There were two days of banqueting. In the revels Shane's secretary made a rash speech. He said Shane was of a mind to marry James Macdonnell's wife, whom Shane still kept in his power, and that the lady was willing. The Macdonnells swore it was a foul lie. The secretary answered that the O'Neill was a match good enough for the Queen of Scots herself. Shane struck in and spoke to the same purpose with such arrogance that dirks were out in a minute. The Scotch hacked him to pieces. His body was flung into a pit. A wise Englishman of the nearest garrison had the head cut off and pickled, and sent it to the Lord Deputy with a claim for the thousand pounds set upon it. Fitzwilliam wished the traitor's end had been worse. He hoisted Shane's head to blacken over the gate of Dublin Castle, where so many Irish heads had blackened before. The Macdonnells were more civilised in their vengeance than that. Shane's body, wrapped "for lack of a better shroud, in a keene's old shirt," was buried here, the home of the Macdonnell chief. The O'Neills sent to beg that this great shaker of Ulster might rest with his own kin. But the abbot of the monastery refused.

48. Shane O'Neill takes Dunseverick but fails at Dunluce

    Dunluce · townland · Antrim · 1565

    After the battle at the Margy River, Shane O'Neill continued along the coast and captured Dunseverick. However, Dunluce Castle proved too strong for him, though he held its master Sorley Boy prisoner and starved him for three days until the garrison surrendered.

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    Signal fires blazed on Torr Head, and James Macdonnell, head of the clan, hastened over from Cantire ; but by the time he landed in Red Bay, just south of Cushendun, Shane had taken his castle in the red sandstone cliff and was on his way towards Ballycastle and the Macdonnell sanctuary at Bonamargy. By the Margy river the whole force of Clandonnell arrayed itself against him. Three Macdonnell brothers went into the fight; one was slain, but James, lord of Cantire and Antrim, and Sorley, lord of the Route, were taken. Shane continued his progress along the coast, took Dunseverick, but Dunluce was too hard for him. Still he had in his hands the master of Dunluce, and for three days Sorley Boy was kept without food till the garrison surrendered sooner than let the chief die of starvation. Shane wrote to the Lord Deputy a glowing eulogy of his own zeal in the Queen's service, which had made him lord absolute in the north-east of Ulster. The Lord Deputy commended him and asked for James and Sorley Macdonnell, but Shane declared that he could not consent to" let so precious hostages out of his sight till he knew the Queen's own pleasure concerning them. So James and his wife and Sorley were shut up in a strong castle near Strabane, where neither Queen nor Deputy could reach them ; and there after a few months James Macdonnell came obscurely by his end. Even after death he remained a captive ; Shane buried him with much pomp and circumstance in the O'Neills' own ground at Armagh. But Sorley was proof against sickness — or it may be against poison — and two years later, when Shane made his fatal hosting into Tyrconnell, Sorley was still a prisoner. So after the day when Hugh O'Donnell met the O'Neills at the fords of Swiily and smote them hip and thigh, Shane, hardly escaping with his life, did not know which way to turn. On the north and north-west were the O'Donnells ; on the south the English ; and on the east the Macdonnells, now leagued with the

    xviii MURDER OF SHANE O'NEILL 275

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 178

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dunluce, in 1565, Shane O'Neill came up against a castle he could not take. He had been moving along the coast after a fight at the Margy River, where the Macdonnells had arrayed their whole force against him. Three Macdonnell brothers went into that fight. One was slain. James, lord of Cantire and Antrim, and Sorley, lord of the Route, were taken prisoner. Shane continued along the coast and took Dunseverick. But Dunluce was too hard for him. Still, he had in his hands the master of Dunluce. For three days Sorley Boy was kept without food, until the garrison surrendered sooner than let their chief die of starvation. Shane wrote to the Lord Deputy with a glowing account of his own zeal in the Queen's service, claiming he had made himself lord absolute in the north-east of Ulster. The Lord Deputy commended him and asked for James and Sorley Macdonnell. Shane refused, saying he could not consent to "let so precious hostages out of his sight till he knew the Queen's own pleasure concerning them." James and his wife and Sorley were shut up in a strong castle near Strabane, where neither Queen nor Deputy could reach them. After a few months James Macdonnell came obscurely by his end. Shane buried him with much pomp in the O'Neills' own ground at Armagh. But Sorley was proof against sickness, or it may be against poison. Two years later, when Shane made his fatal hosting into Tyrconnell, Sorley was still a prisoner. Hugh O'Donnell met the O'Neills at the fords of Swilly and smote them hip and thigh. Shane hardly escaped with his life.

49. Cucogry O'Clery dispossessed of Boylagh lands

    Boylagh · barony · Donegal · 1632

    Cucogry O'Clery, a scholar and scribe of the Annals, owned lands in Boylagh recorded at an inquisition at Lifford in 1632. He was stripped of his property for being 'a mere Irishman,' a typical instance of the Ulster confiscations.

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    Cucogry O'Clery was a peaceable scholar who owned certain lands in Boylagh, as was reported before an inquisition taken at Lifford in 1632 ; but " being a mere Irishman and not of English or British descent " he was dispossessed and the lands became forfeited to the king. He had, however, other possessions for which the English had no covetous desire, and his will exists bequeathing " the property most dear to me that I ever possessed in this world, namely my books, to my two sons Dermot and John." The Ulster confiscations have never been justified ; but an attempt is often made to represent them as a banishment of predatory savages to make way for civilised men. The case of this patient scholar and scribe, stripped of his land for being an Irishman, is worthy to be remembered by those who wonder at the slowness of the Irish to be wron over by an occasional grant in aid of some light railway or curing station for fish, and may stand for a typical instance of the process by which the Catholic Irish were converted into a nation of Helots — a status from which they are only gradually and painfully emerging.

    Donegal.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Boylagh, you are moving through a place where a scholar named Cucogry O'Clery once owned land. He was a peaceable man, a scribe of the Annals, and his property here was recorded before an inquisition at Lifford in 1632. But for being, in the words of the record, a mere Irishman and not of English or British descent, he was stripped of everything. The lands became forfeited to the king. He had other possessions, though, for which the English had no covetous desire. His will survives, and in it he bequeathed what he called the property most dear to me that I ever possessed in this world, namely my books, to his two sons Dermot and John. The land was taken. The books he kept. The Ulster confiscations have never been justified, though people often try to present them as the removal of savages to make way for civilised men. This patient scholar, robbed of his ground for no reason but his blood, is worth remembering. He stands as a typical instance of how the Catholic Irish were reduced to a nation of helots.

50. Donegal Castle in the siege of 1601

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1601

    During the attack on the English garrison at Donegal monastery, O'Donnell's forces faced fire from soldiers positioned in both the monastery and the castle of Donegal, as well as from a ship in the harbour opposite them.

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    pleasantly, for killing and destroying, conflict and shooting, were carried on by each party against the other. The English were reduced to great straits and distress by the long siege in which they were kept by O'Donnell's people; and some of them used to desert to O'Donnell's camp in twos or threes in consequence of the distress and straits they were in from the want of a proper ration of food. Thus they passed the time till the end of September when God willed to take revenge and satisfaction of the English for the profanation and abuse which they had offered to the churches and apartments of the psalmsinging ecclesiastics of the monastery of Donegal and the monastery of Magherabeg in which they were quartered and encamped. The vengeance which God wreaked upon them was this, however it cameto pass : fire fell amongthe powder which had been put in the monastery of Donegal for carrying on the war; so that the boarded apartments and all the stone and wooden buildings of the entire monastery were burned. As soon as the spies and sentinels whom O'Donnell had posted to spy and watch the English perceived the brown-red mass of flames, and the dense cloud of vapour and smoke that rose upon the monastery, they began to discharge their leaden bullets and their fiery flashes in order that O'Donnell might immediately come to them to attack the English, for they thought it would occasion too long a delay to send him messengers. The signal was not slowly responded to by O'Donnell and his army, for they vehemently and rapidly advanced with their utmost speed in troops and squadrons to where their people were at the monastery. Bloody and furious was the attack they made upon the English and their own friends and kinsmen who were there. It was difficult and almost impossible for O'Donnell's people to withstand the fire of the soldiers who were in the monastery and the castle of Donegal and in a ship which was in the harbour opposite to them ; yet, however, O'Donnell's people had the better of it, although many of them were cut off. Con Og, the brother of Nial Garv, fell with three hundred others in that slaughter.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    This is the town of Donegal, and in 1601 it was the scene of a long and bloody siege. O'Donnell's people kept the English garrison in great distress, so much so that some of the English would desert in twos and threes to O'Donnell's camp, driven by hunger and the want of proper food. The siege went on through the summer until the end of September, when the account says God took revenge on the English for the profanation they had offered to the churches and the apartments of the psalm-singing ecclesiastics of the monastery of Donegal and the monastery of Magherabeg, where the English had quartered themselves. The vengeance came in this way. Fire fell among the powder that had been stored in the monastery of Donegal for carrying on the war, and the boarded apartments and all the stone and wooden buildings of the entire monastery were burned. The sentinels O'Donnell had posted to watch the English saw the brown-red mass of flames and the dense cloud of smoke rising from the monastery. They began to discharge their leaden bullets and their fiery flashes as a signal, thinking it would take too long to send messengers to O'Donnell. O'Donnell and his army responded rapidly, advancing in troops and squadrons to where their people were at the monastery. The attack they made was bloody and furious, on the English and on their own friends and kinsmen who were there. It was difficult and almost impossible for O'Donnell's people to withstand the fire of the soldiers positioned in the monastery and the castle of Donegal and in a ship in the harbour opposite them. Yet O'Donnell's people had the better of it, though many of them were cut off. Con Og, the brother of Nial Garv, fell, with 300 others in that slaughter.

51. Holy Columbkille's cross taken from Dunluce by Perrot

    Dunluce · townland · Antrim · 1584

    When Sir John Perrot took Dunluce in 1584, he carried away 'Holy Columbkille's cross,' a relic he sent to Burghley as being a god of great veneration to Sorley Boy and all Ulster. The cross was of little monetary value, its jewels probably only rock-crystals, and its fate remains unknown.

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    Two other things of interest should be noted about Dunluce. The wreck of the Gerona at Port-na-Spania has been already recounted. From the wreck Sorley Boy recovered three brass guns, which were promptly claimed by Government. But Sorley refused resolutely to give them up — it must have been nearly his last act — and in 1597, when his son Randal fortified Dunluce it was on this ordnance that he largely relied. Also in 1584, when Sir John Perrot took the place, he carried away among the spoil " Holy Columbkille's cross," a relic which he sent to Burghley as being " a god of great veneration to Sorley Boy and all Ulster," though of little price for its jewels— which probably were only rock-crystals. What became of the cross no one knows ; it may some day be unearthed in some old house.

    The bridge at Dunluce has really no great terrors ; it is fairly wide and the drop is not big. But it is a convenient test of your fitness to go over Carrick-a-rede, for if you feel the least nervousness at Dunluce, the wider a berth you give to Carricka-rede the better. The last thing to be done is either by boat or land to visit the cave, and indeed it is well worth while to do both. On the landward side of the round cliff on which stands the castle, the cave begins in a great hole like the burrow of some gigantic badger ; you go down a dusty and stony path into it, and at the bottom, the salt smell of ocean gathered up in this funnel strikes you suddenly. The cave is a long tunnel not above ten yards across, and narrowing towards the exit a hundred yards away. As you stand by the water's edge — or near it, for this is a thing to be done with discretion, waves being capricious, incalculable things— looking back you see the meeting of two lights, the landward, which comes in pinkish over the stones, and the colder light reflected in from off the sea face. Overhead is a strangely regular roof with a strong resemblance to the groining that one sees in Jacobean work : and on each side springs the arch upon which rock and

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 160

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Dunluce, in 1584, Sir John Perrot took this place and carried away among the spoil what he called Holy Columbkille's cross. He sent the relic to Burghley, describing it as a god of great veneration to Sorley Boy and all Ulster. For all that reverence, the cross was of little price. Its jewels, Perrot noted, were probably only rock-crystals. What became of the cross after that no one knows. It may yet turn up someday in some old house, but for now it has vanished from the record. There is more to Dunluce than the cross. The wreck of the Gerona at Port-na-Spania is part of its story. Sorley Boy recovered three brass guns from that wreck, and the Government promptly claimed them. Sorley refused resolutely to give them up. It must have been nearly his last act. In 1597, his son Randal fortified Dunluce, and it was on this ordnance that he largely relied. So this place held a relic that mattered to all Ulster, and guns pulled from the sea. The cross went east to Burghley and disappeared. The guns stayed, and served a fortification. One object of veneration, carried off as spoil. One act of defiance, keeping weapons from a wreck. Both bound to this place, and to the name of Sorley Boy.

52. Lundy's failed stand at the Finn near Lifford

    Lifford · townland · Donegal · 1689

    In April 1689, Governor Lundy drew out his forces to oppose James's Catholic army at the crossing of the Finn near Lifford. The affair was so badly managed that the Protestants beat a disorderly retreat and James advanced along the left bank of the Foyle.

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    preternatural valour by religious zeal. That is not so. " Town companies''" existed in December, 1688; many of those who came in had seen fighting about Coleraine; and a great number were enrolled for active service by Colonel Lundy, who was sent down early in 1689 to be Governor of the town. It is true that their experience of service under him was not encouraging. In April the Catholic army, with James in person at their head, marched northwards. Lundy drew out his forces to oppose them at the crossing of the Finn near LifTord, but the affair was so managed that the Protestants had to beat a disorderly retreat and James advanced along the left bank of the Foyle. On April 15th English ships with two regiments under Colonel Cunningham and Colonel Richards had entered the Lough. Lundy had refused to employ these men against the advancing enemy, and on his return he called a Council of War, at which he declared that the town was incapable of defence and unprovided with food ; that to throw two regiments into it would therefore merely be a useless sacrifice of them. The officers, being commissioned to take their orders from Lundy, sailed reluctantly down the river. Naturally the town was full of rumours of treachery, though it was not yet generally known that the regiments had been finally withdrawn. Matters came to a crisis on the 1 8th. James marched his army to the strand, not far from where the Great Northern Railway station now is ; and while his army was under the walls, the town clerk insisted on publishing the fact that Cunningham and Richards had been ordered to leave the town with their troops. While the Council was still deliberating, those on the walls fired a cannon at the Irish which, it is said, killed an officer near the king's person. Still emissaries went to and fro ; the deciding incident was the arrival of Captain Adam Murray, with a troop of horse, from Culmore. Fifteen hundred foot were at Pennyburn, a little way beyond the present Lough Swilly railway station. Lundy, hearing of Murray's arrival, ordered him back, but he forced an entrance and immediately assumed the direction of affairs. He broke

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 144

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Lifford, in April 1689, Governor Lundy drew out his forces to oppose the Catholic army at the crossing of the Finn. James was there in person, marching northwards at the head of his troops. The affair was so badly managed that the Protestants had to beat a disorderly retreat, and James advanced along the left bank of the Foyle. Colonel Lundy had been sent down early in 1689 to be Governor of the town. Town companies had existed since December 1688, and many of the men had already seen fighting about Coleraine. A great number were enrolled for active service under Lundy. Their experience of service under him was not encouraging. On April 15th, English ships with two regiments under Colonel Cunningham and Colonel Richards had entered the Lough. Lundy refused to employ these men against the advancing enemy. On his return he called a Council of War and declared that the town was incapable of defence and unprovided with food. He said that to throw two regiments into it would be a useless sacrifice of them. The officers, commissioned to take their orders from Lundy, sailed reluctantly down the river. The town was full of rumours of treachery. Matters came to a crisis on the 18th. James marched his army to the strand. The town clerk insisted on publishing the fact that Cunningham and Richards had been ordered to leave with their troops. Those on the walls fired a cannon at the Irish, which, it was said, killed an officer near the king's person. Captain Adam Murray arrived from Culmore with a troop of horse. Lundy ordered him back, but he forced an entrance and immediately took over.

53. Rock of Doon and crutches of healed pilgrims

    Doon · townland · Donegal

    The Rock of Doon is a bold scarped hillock standing conspicuously out from the surrounding moorland, reached by a raised causeway across the bog. On a level green space before the rock stands an array of crutches left by healed cripples, all swathed with rags worn in sickness and bleached by weather into conformity with the grey stones.

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    The road to Doon Well is one of those by-tracks where the cyclist has to remember that he is still a strange beast. Horses — not fiery, untamed steeds, but decent^ quiet animals in the cart or plough — will still shy at him, and that has to be borne in mind, for one's own safety and other people's. After about two miles up and down hill over waste moorland, you will see on the left the Rock of Doon — a bold scarped hillock or bluff, standing conspicuously out from the rest, with a road, or rather a raised causeway, running across the bog to it. Follow that the best way you can ; there is generally a track made by barefoot traffic along the edge of it possible enough for the machine, and you will notice on your left a tossing series of heathery hills and hummocks. Then the road rises, and as you come to the top of the hill look back and you will see a ring-fence of mountains all about you — Lough Salt quite near at hand, then east of him the Knockalla range above Mulroy, all brown and purple with heather ; beyond them again — on the far side of Lough Swilly, which you cannot see — rise the Inishowen Mountains, Slieve Snacht (Snow Peak) the highest. Then set your face west again, and suddenly you round a corner of the Rock of Doon, and there in front of you, on a level green space, is something like a flight of strange birds — tall and leggy herons. That is the array of crutches, left there by the healed cripples, and they are all swathed about with the rags worn in sickness. Wind and rain and sun have wrought upon these unsightly objects till they are cleansed and bleached and softened into a conformity of tint with the grey stones

    VIII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 70

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Doon stands the Rock of Doon, a bold scarped hillock rising conspicuously out from the waste moorland, reached by a raised causeway running across the bog. On a level green space before the rock, there is an array of crutches left by healed cripples, all swathed about with the rags worn in sickness. Wind and rain and sun have wrought upon these unsightly objects till they are cleansed and bleached and softened into a conformity of tint with the grey stones. The road to it is a by-track where a cyclist still has to remember he is a strange beast. Decent quiet horses in the cart or plough will shy at him. After about 2 miles up and down hill over moorland, the rock appears, a bluff standing out from the rest. The causeway is followed the best way possible, along a track made by barefoot traffic along its edge. A tossing series of heathery hills and hummocks rise nearby. The road rises, and at the top of the hill there is a ring-fence of mountains all about: Lough Salt quite near at hand, then east of it the Knockalla range above Mulroy, all brown and purple with heather, and beyond them, on the far side of Lough Swilly, the Inishowen Mountains, with Slieve Snacht, Snow Peak, the highest. Rounding a corner of the rock, there on the green space is something like a flight of strange birds, tall and leggy herons. Those are the crutches of the healed.

54. Sir Cahir O'Dogherty's last stand at Doon Rock

    Doon Rock · rock or rocks · Donegal · 1608

    On July 5th 1608, Sir Cahir O'Dogherty made his stand at Doon Rock against Sir Arthur Chichester's forces. He was a conspicuous figure of remarkable height distinguished by a great Spanish hat with nodding plumes, and a bullet in the first volley reached his brain.

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    But Sir Arthur Chichester, the Lord-Deputy, sent out hotfoot after him, and on July 5th one of the divisions advanced by way of Kilmacrenan, and Sir Cahir made his stand by Doon Rock. He was a conspicuous figure, of remarkable height, and distinguished by a great Spanish hat with nodding plumes ; so it is no wonder that a bullet in the first volley reached his brain. His head was cut off, for there was a thousand pounds set on it in Dublin Castle ; and the story is, that the man who got it set out to travel alone with his burden, but slept the night under the roof of an O'Dogherty, who looked into the bundle, recognised the head, and determined at least to keep the profit in the clan. The original captor only reached Dublin in time to ascertain that the price had been paid some hours before. Whoever got the money, the head reached its destination ; Sir Cahir's head was " set on a pole of the East Gate, called New Gate, and his body was quartered between Derry and Culmore." Phelim McDevitt, his chief supporter, was not long after betrayed to the English, who hanged him at LifTord. All this materially assisted the settlement of Ulster ; indeed, it is probable that when Faulet laid his horsewhip on the Irish chief whom Docwra had knighted, he had a shrewd vision of confiscated lands in case of any outbreak. If so, the forecast was a good one, though it happened to benefit, not Paulet, but the Lord-Deputy, Sir Arthur Chichester, to whom the whole peninsula of Inishowen was assigned after Cahir's forfeiture. Such was the last incident of any note in that pacifying of Ireland, a process which is wholly forgotten by those who owe to it their estates, but which the descendants of those who were despoiled remember with a resentment perfectly unintelligible to the winners.

    When leaving Doon Rock, you get back on the main road which you left for the Causeway, keep straight along to the left, and it will take you back to Gartan, but there is a hill on it too steep to ride down. You will sight Gartan lake before

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    This is Doon Rock, where Sir Cahir O'Dogherty made his last stand on July 5th, 1608. Sir Arthur Chichester, the Lord-Deputy, sent out forces after him, and one division advanced by way of Kilmacrenan. Sir Cahir was a conspicuous figure, of remarkable height, distinguished by a great Spanish hat with nodding plumes. A bullet in the first volley reached his brain. His head was cut off, for there was a thousand pounds set on it in Dublin Castle. The story goes that the man who got it set out to travel alone with his burden, but slept the night under the roof of an O'Dogherty. The host looked into the bundle, recognised the head, and determined at least to keep the profit in the clan. The original captor only reached Dublin in time to find that the price had been paid some hours before. Whoever got the money, the head reached its destination. Sir Cahir's head was "set on a pole of the East Gate, called New Gate, and his body was quartered between Derry and Culmore." Phelim McDevitt, his chief supporter, was not long after betrayed to the English, who hanged him at Lifford. All this materially assisted the settlement of Ulster. When Paulet laid his horsewhip on the Irish chief whom Docwra had knighted, he may have had a shrewd vision of confiscated lands in case of any outbreak. The forecast was a good one, though it benefited not Paulet, but Sir Arthur Chichester, to whom the whole peninsula of Inishowen was assigned after Cahir's forfeiture. Such was the last incident of any note in that pacifying of Ireland, a process wholly forgotten by those who owe to it their estates, but which the descendants of those who were despoiled remember with a resentment perfectly unintelligible to the winners.

55. Annals of the Four Masters compiled at Donegal Abbey

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1632–1636

    The Annals of the Four Masters, one of the greatest Irish chronicles, was compiled from 1632 to 1636 in the O'Donnells' own abbey at Donegal. The work chronicles Irish history year by year from 2242 Anno Mundi to 1616, written as the old Gaelic order was ending.

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    and warlike tribes were merely nations of savages like the Zulus and Afridis. They had analogies with such races in that they existed mainly for war, that they had no settled hereditary succession, and only in a limited sense any security for private property. But the O'Donnells were devout Christians, founders of monasteries, and many of their chiefs retired to make an edifying end in some of the O'Donnell foundations. They were patrons, too, of literature and learning. Not only did they, after the fashion of all Irish chiefs, maintain bards, but there flourished under their guidance a great school of historians. One of the O'Donnells was himself a writer. Manus, the father of Calvagh, a contemporary of Con Bocagh, first Earl of Tyrone, andof the great Shane O'Neill, built a fortress at Lifford, a frontier castle on the highway between Tyrone and Tyrconnell ; built it and lived in it in spite of the O'Neills and their warriors ; and it was not an easy thing to do. But it was in this " gap of danger " that he spent long years in composing the Life of Saint Columba, the great saint of Tyrconnell, by birth, like himself of the blood of Conall Gulban. Above all, however, the greatest of the Irish chronicles was composed under the auspices of the O'Donnells in their own abbey of Donegal. " The Annals of the Four Masters " is a chronicle of events in the history of Ireland, year by year from the year of the world 2242 (b.c. 1762) to a.d. 1616. Its compilation occupied the time from June 22nd 1632 to August 10th 1636.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Donegal, you pass the town where the greatest of the Irish chronicles was written. The Annals of the Four Masters was compiled in the O'Donnells' own abbey here, under their patronage. The O'Donnells were devout Christians, founders of monasteries. Many of their chiefs retired to make an edifying end in one of the O'Donnell foundations. They were patrons of literature and learning. After the fashion of all Irish chiefs, they maintained bards, but under their guidance there flourished a great school of historians. One of the O'Donnells was himself a writer. Manus, the father of Calvagh, a contemporary of Con Bocagh, first Earl of Tyrone, and of the great Shane O'Neill, built a fortress at Lifford, a frontier castle on the highway between Tyrone and Tyrconnell. He built it and lived in it in spite of the O'Neills and their warriors, and it was not an easy thing to do. But it was in this gap of danger that he spent long years composing the Life of Saint Columba, the great saint of Tyrconnell, by birth like himself of the blood of Conall Gulban. The Annals of the Four Masters is a chronicle of events in the history of Ireland, year by year from the year of the world 2242, about 1762 BC, to 1616. Its compilation occupied the time from June 22nd 1632 to August 10th 1636.

56. Casan na gCuradh — the Path of the Heroes

    Assaroe · waterfall · Donegal

    A starving English army attempted to escape across the dangerous ford at Assaroe called Casan na gCuradh, the Path of the Heroes. Many horses, women, and wounded were swept over the fall, though the strong men got across. The ford can still be seen below the bridge over the Erne.

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    Meanwhile the levy of O'Donnell's urraghts, or vassal chiefs, was coming in ; Maguire from Fermanagh; O'Rourke from Brefny ; and the Governor of Connaught's army was hard put to it between O'Donnell's sorties and the attacks from without. Moreover all the fords now were held from Lough Erne to the sea. But starving men will risk much, and the army was starving; so it was decided to attempt the " rough turbulent cold streamed ford over the brink of Assaroe called Casan na-g Curadh " — (the Path of the Heroes) and they advanced unperceived to this. Many of the horses, many of the women and many of the wounded or those weakened by hunger, were swept over the fall ; but the strong men got across. O'Donnell, full of anger that his prize should escape, pursued him, and there was a running fight from the Erne to Carbery ; but the governor got safe away. He was less lucky the next time he met Red Hugh in fight.

    Of the castle there is now no trace, but as you cross the bridge over the Erne you will see the " path of the heroes " below you. Turn to the left and come to the side of Assaroe; an ugly ford it must be to cross in swollen water, and indeed not easy even on a day when the river sparkles and the sandhills are yellow in the sun between you and the blue Atlantic. It would tempt one to a description, but a better man has done it.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Casan na gCuradh, the Path of the Heroes, is what the old book calls the "rough turbulent cold streamed ford over the brink of Assaroe." The ford can still be seen below the bridge over the Erne. The story of the place is this. O'Donnell's vassal chiefs were coming in, Maguire from Fermanagh and O'Rourke from Brefny, and the Governor of Connaught's army was hard pressed between O'Donnell's sorties and attacks from without. All the fords from Lough Erne to the sea were held. But starving men will risk much, and the army was starving. It was decided to attempt the ford at Assaroe, and they advanced unperceived to it. Many of the horses, many of the women, and many of the wounded or those weakened by hunger were swept over the fall. The strong men got across. O'Donnell, full of anger that his prize should escape, pursued him, and there was a running fight from the Erne to Carbery. But the governor got safe away. He was less lucky the next time he met Red Hugh in fight. Of the castle there is now no trace. The ford is an ugly one to cross in swollen water, and not easy even on a day when the river sparkles and the sandhills are yellow in the sun.

57. Docwra describes the ruined island of Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1600

    When Sir Henry Docwra arrived at Derry in 1600, he found a forty-acre island-like plot of ground containing the ruins of an old abbey, a bishop's house, two churches, and an old castle. The site was encompassed by Lough Foyle on one side and a wet bog on the other.

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    " Leaving Captain Atford at Culmore, with 600 men to make up the works, we went to the Derry, four miles off upon the river side, a place in manner of an island, comprehending within it forty acres of ground, wherein were the ruins of an old abbey, of a bishop's house, of two churches and, at one of the ends of it, of an old castle ; the river called Lough Foyle encompassing it all on one side, and a bog most commonly wet and not easily passable, except in two or three places, dividing it from the mainland."

    In two years a town was there, capable of housing a thousand men, says Docwra, who prided himself greatly on his work. How he was succeeded by Paulet in the governorship, and how Paulet rashly provoked Sir Cahir O'Doherty into revolt, I have already told. In that revolt, during 1609, Derry was for the last time burnt. Probably no town in the kingdom has so often risen from its ashes.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    This is Derry. When Sir Henry Docwra arrived here in 1600, he left Captain Atford behind at Culmore with 600 men to finish the works there, and came four miles up the river side to what he found. He called the Derry a place in manner of an island, holding forty acres of ground. Within it were the ruins of an old abbey, a bishop's house, two churches, and at one end of it an old castle. Lough Foyle encompassed it all on one side. On the other, a bog most commonly wet and not easily passable, except in two or three places, divided it from the mainland. Within two years Docwra had built a town there, capable of housing a thousand men, and he prided himself greatly on his work. He was succeeded in the governorship by Paulet, who rashly provoked Sir Cahir O'Doherty into revolt. In that revolt, during 1609, Derry was for the last time burnt. Probably no town in the kingdom has so often risen from its ashes.

58. Donegal Friary destroyed by fire on Michaelmas Day

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1601

    On Michaelmas Day 1601, fire reached gunpowder stored in the monastery of Donegal, burning the boarded apartments and all stone and wooden buildings. O'Donnell's forces attacked but were repelled by soldiers in the monastery, the castle, and a ship in the harbour.

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    pleasantly, for killing and destroying, conflict and shooting, were carried on by each party against the other. The English were reduced to great straits and distress by the long siege in which they were kept by O'Donnell's people; and some of them used to desert to O'Donnell's camp in twos or threes in consequence of the distress and straits they were in from the want of a proper ration of food. Thus they passed the time till the end of September when God willed to take revenge and satisfaction of the English for the profanation and abuse which they had offered to the churches and apartments of the psalmsinging ecclesiastics of the monastery of Donegal and the monastery of Magherabeg in which they were quartered and encamped. The vengeance which God wreaked upon them was this, however it cameto pass : fire fell amongthe powder which had been put in the monastery of Donegal for carrying on the war; so that the boarded apartments and all the stone and wooden buildings of the entire monastery were burned. As soon as the spies and sentinels whom O'Donnell had posted to spy and watch the English perceived the brown-red mass of flames, and the dense cloud of vapour and smoke that rose upon the monastery, they began to discharge their leaden bullets and their fiery flashes in order that O'Donnell might immediately come to them to attack the English, for they thought it would occasion too long a delay to send him messengers. The signal was not slowly responded to by O'Donnell and his army, for they vehemently and rapidly advanced with their utmost speed in troops and squadrons to where their people were at the monastery. Bloody and furious was the attack they made upon the English and their own friends and kinsmen who were there. It was difficult and almost impossible for O'Donnell's people to withstand the fire of the soldiers who were in the monastery and the castle of Donegal and in a ship which was in the harbour opposite to them ; yet, however, O'Donnell's people had the better of it, although many of them were cut off. Con Og, the brother of Nial Garv, fell with three hundred others in that slaughter.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Donegal holds the memory of a monastery that burned on Michaelmas Day in 1601. The English had been quartered in the monastery of Donegal and the monastery of Magherabeg, and O'Donnell's people kept them under long siege. The English were reduced to great distress from want of food, and some deserted to O'Donnell's camp in twos and threes. They passed the time thus till the end of September. The chronicle calls what came next the vengeance God took for the profanation the English had offered to the churches and apartments of the psalm-singing ecclesiastics. Fire fell among the powder stored in the monastery for carrying on the war. The boarded apartments and all the stone and wooden buildings of the entire monastery were burned. The sentinels O'Donnell had posted saw the brown-red mass of flames and the dense cloud of smoke rising over the monastery, and they began to discharge their leaden bullets and their fiery flashes as a signal, thinking it would take too long to send messengers. O'Donnell and his army responded rapidly, advancing in troops and squadrons to where their people were at the monastery. They made a bloody and furious attack on the English and on their own friends and kinsmen who were there. It was difficult and almost impossible for O'Donnell's people to withstand the fire of the soldiers in the monastery, the castle of Donegal, and a ship in the harbour opposite them. O'Donnell's people had the better of it, though many were cut off. Con Og, the brother of Nial Garv, fell with 300 others in that slaughter.

59. Electric tramway to Giant's Causeway: fatal accidents and fraud

    near Portrush · town · Antrim

    An electric tramway runs from Portrush to the Giant's Causeway along the road, with an exposed live rail said to have caused fatal accidents to man and beast. Locals were accused of placing dying animals against the rail to extract compensation from the company.

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    A little rise brings you to the brow above Portrush and you run down into that prosperous little haven on this very harbourless coast. Golf has done Portrush a good turn, for the links there are accounted, on the whole, the best in Ireland, and very pretty links they are, even for a sane man or woman to travel over. For the golfer, it seems, they are a paradise — but a paradise which contains a Purgatory — that is the name they give to one famous bunker which, upon a day of golfing, is full of gnashing of teeth. Outside the links, close in to the pleasantlooking beach, lie the Skerries, a range of rocky islets ; and along the road which passes the links runs the electric tramway to the Giant's Causeway, a way paved with contention. The low rail along which runs the electric current — conveyed to the machinery of the cars by a contact with brushes which rub its surface — is exposed by the roadside : and according to the neighbourhood has been the cause of fatal accidents to man and beast. According to the supporters of the company, it was the practice of the natives if they possessed a horse or cow in articulo mortis, to take it and place it leaning against the electric rail ; not in hope to galvanise the moribund, but in order that it might die there and compensation be exacted from the company. On which side the truth lay I have never discovered, but in the meanwhile it will be just as well not to sit on this rail.

    You will follow the line of this tramway from Portrush — and at the time when I travelled the road a very bad line I found it — and sweeping round the point you come in full view of the White Rocks and Dunluce. The White Rocks are a range of chalk cliffs ranging from fifty to a hundred and fifty feet in height in a semicircle around the bay : in front of them is the bright sand with its border of breaking waves, which on most

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 155

    As the companion tells it

    As you come down into Portrush, you find a prosperous little haven on a coast that has few harbours. Golf has done the town a good turn. The links there are accounted the best in Ireland, and very pretty ones they are. For the golfer they are a paradise, but a paradise that contains a Purgatory, the name they give to one famous bunker where, on a day of golfing, there is much gnashing of teeth. Outside the links, close in to the pleasant-looking beach, lie the Skerries, a range of rocky islets. Along the road which passes the links runs the electric tramway to the Giant's Causeway, a way paved with contention. The low rail along which runs the electric current, conveyed to the machinery of the cars by brushes that rub its surface, is exposed by the roadside. According to the neighbourhood, it has been the cause of fatal accidents to man and beast. According to the supporters of the company, it was the practice of the natives, if they had a horse or cow in its death throes, to take it and place it leaning against the electric rail, not in hope to bring it back to life, but in order that it might die there and compensation be exacted from the company. On which side the truth lay, the writer never discovered, but in the meanwhile it will be just as well not to sit on this rail. Following the line of this tramway from Portrush, at the time the road was travelled it was a very bad line. Sweeping round the point brings full view of the White Rocks and Dunluce. The White Rocks are a range of chalk cliffs from fifty to a hundred and fifty feet in height, in a semicircle around the bay, with bright sand before them and a border of breaking waves.

60. Murder of Lord Leitrim near Cratlagh wood, 1878

    Cratlagh · townland · Donegal · 1878

    The third Earl of Leitrim was murdered in April 1878 at a spot about 200 yards from the road between Rosapenna and Bunlinn Glen, near Cratlagh wood along the shore of Mulroy Bay. He was a tyrannical landlord who had abolished rundale tenure and evicted tenants who asserted any rights.

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    It is an easy climb to the top of this. The view is one of the most beautiful in Ireland. You have under you Sheephaven, lying like a map, with the huge gable end of Muckish rising up beyond it. To the west is Horn Head and the battlemented outline of Tory, while on the other side of the Rossgull peninsula you are able to track out all the devious mazes and windings of that extraordinary piece of water, Mulroy Bay, which enters by a narrow inlet and spreads out like a fan, and not content with that sends out a great backwater up towards Fanad through another narrow gut, and to finish everything sprinkles the whole of its surface with rocks and islands, so that to know and navigate its tides and channels is a proof of very exceptional seamanship. But you will see Mulroy in all its extent when you start on your next stage to Portsalon. The shortest way, if you like to take it, involves two ferries across two channels of this bewildering lough, but I would certainly have you ride down to Bunlinn Glen at the very foot of Mulroy. It is about ten miles to the lower end of Mulroy from the hotel. The road takes you straight out over the hill past Lady Leitrim's house until you strike the side of the main body of the lake. Thence it winds along, prettily enough, a long heathery slope with steep hills to the right and the lough and its islands lying on the left, and beyond the water the Knockalla mountains rising jagged and fantastic. Presently you come in sight of the first fringe of Cratlagh wood, which runs mostly between the road and the lake for about three miles from Bunlinn, and you are in sight of the scene of a very tragic and bloody episode in which wood and lough had to play their part. About 200 yards from you is the place where the third Lord Leitrim was murdered in 1878.

    The third Earl of Leitrim had served in the army, rising to be a colonel, before he succeeded his father in the title. He was a man by no means wholly bad and possessed qualities which might, under happier circumstances, have made him famous — absolute courage and a perfectly indom-

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 109

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Cratlagh, you are near the scene of a bloody episode. In 1878 the third Earl of Leitrim was murdered near Cratlagh wood along the shore of Mulroy Bay. He had served in the army, rising to colonel, before he succeeded his father in the title. The book says he was a man by no means wholly bad, and possessed qualities that might under happier circumstances have made him famous. He had, in the book's words, "absolute courage and a perfectly indomitable will." But he was a tyrannical landlord. He had abolished rundale tenure on his estates and evicted tenants who asserted any rights of their own against his. The road past here goes over the hill past Lady Leitrim's house until it reaches the side of Mulroy Bay. Then it winds along a long heathery slope with steep hills on one side and the lough and its islands on the other. Cratlagh wood runs between the road and the lake for about three miles from Bunlinn. Mulroy Bay is an extraordinary piece of water. It enters by a narrow inlet, spreads out like a fan, sends a great backwater up towards Fanad through another narrow gut, and sprinkles its whole surface with rocks and islands. To know and navigate its tides and channels was a proof of exceptional seamanship.