Highways and byways in Donegal and Antrim;

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Faymore River salmon-leap below Muckish

   Faymore River · river · Donegal

   The Faymore River comes down from Muckish and features an artistically built salmon-leap. It is only a spawning river, with fish entering the Lackagh estuary near Doe Castle as early as March but not ascending until September.

   Read the passage

   avenue, sometimes under trees, sometimes with glimpses peering out of the lesser bays, each beautiful, into which the shores of Sheephaven are curved and cut, and further along through green sloping pastures, where rabbits play and scuttle in droves to cover in front of you, you will get back into the road and cross a little river — the Faymore — that comes down from Muckish. There is a salmon-leap here, artistically built, but it is only a spawning river ; the fish come into the Lackagh — whose estuary meets it near Doe Castle— as early as March, but up here they never go till September ; why, is one of the many mysteries connected with that unaccountable fish. Pushing on another two miles you will reach the little town of Creeslough.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 107

2. Giant's Causeway basalt formations

   near Giant's Causeway · population centre · Antrim

   The Causeway and the coast eastward to Fair Head feature vast masses of basaltic columns for which this part of the Antrim coast is famous. The trap assumes a crystalline character descending to the sea in columnar formations.

   Read the passage

   " The surface of Antrim is mostly trap ; this rests on beds of indurated chalk, below which is a stratum of greenstone. The next stratum is new red sandstone, and the lowest bed is mica slate. The trap rises on both sides of the Bann, and the whole field shows the same scarped features and succession of strata towards the Roe river in Deny from the Atlantic, North Channel and Belfast Lough. It is this succession of strata which gives the .peculiar charm to the coast scenery of Antrim. At the Causeway and eastward to Fair Head the trap assumes a crystalline character, descending to the sea in the vast masses of basaltic columns for which this part of the coast is famous."

   But the most marked difference in the scenery lies in the seaward horizon. In Donegal you look out north and west, and the knowledge that no land lies within a thousand miles either way adds to your sense of vastness. The Antrim coast depends for its chief beauty on the fact that it makes one side of a narrow seaway. The Scotch hills, receding or approaching as the clouds lift or thicken, sometimes invisible, sometimes flashing into incredible distinctness, give a fascination to travel that keeps your attention continually on the stretch. And,

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 151

3. Gweebarra estuary route through Donegal mountains

   Gweebarra River · river · Donegal

   The Gweebarra estuary forms a long narrow cleft in the land, following a line that leads from Lough Barra over a pass to Glen Veagh and down the Owen-Harrow river to Sheephaven and Mulroy. This constitutes one end of a great pass dividing the Donegal mountains from north-east to south-west.

   Read the passage

   For the stage that is to bring you to Gartan it is distinctly an advantage to start from Glenties, as even the six level miles from Ardara to Glenties make a perceptible addition to what may be a trying, although a very beautiful, ride. Leaving Glenties then, past the railway station, your road follows the line of the railway for a matter of two miles, then the telegraph posts turn straight up the hill to the left, and here you must get off and walk, but once you top the hill you have a perfectly delightful ride for seven miles along the Gweebarra estuary and up to Doochary bridge. The road runs down an easy gradient until you meet the Gweebarra, which is a long narrow cleft in the land. If you follow that cleft it takes you straight up the line of the Gweebarra river to Lough Barra, and straight over the pass there to Glen Veagh, and thence straight down the line of the Owen-Harrow river to the level of Sheephaven and Mulroy. It is, in short, one end of the great pass that . divides the Donegal mountains from north-east to south-west. After an hour or so of riding along this beautiful but lonely road, you will come at last to Doochary bridge, where the tideway ends. Cross the bridge to your left, and you will see your road running up the north side of the valley. You can easily trace your direction, for the road is a continuous ascent now of six or seven miles, but the valley is well-wooded and the road is wellengineered, so that, at least on a dry day with the wind behind you, you will have nothing to complain of. When the Gweebarra has become a mere trickle and trees have disappeared, you certainly have a stiff piece of work and a very wild country. I went into a house here to ask for some soda bread, and found three people in the cottage : an old man, and an old woman and a young woman, not one of whom could understand English — a very rare experience nowadays. But, although the hill is long and steep, the surface of the road is very good, and on a fine

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 57

   As the companion tells it

   The road is taking you along the Gweebarra estuary, a long narrow cleft in the land that cuts through the Donegal mountains. Follow that cleft and it runs straight up the Gweebarra river to Lough Barra, over a pass to Glen Veagh, and down the Owen-Harrow river to Sheephaven and Mulroy. It is one end of the great pass that divides the Donegal mountains from north-east to south-west. The ride along this estuary is beautiful but lonely, and the road is well-engineered through a well-wooded valley. Where the Gweebarra becomes a mere trickle and the trees disappear, the country turns very wild. The writer of the book called at a cottage here to ask for soda bread and found three people, an old man, an old woman, and a young woman, not one of whom could understand English, which he called a very rare experience. The tideway ends at Doochary bridge, and beyond it the road keeps climbing for 6 or 7 miles on a good surface.

4. Long Town lane and the old churches of Derry

   near Derry · city · Derry

   The original churches of Columba's monastery lay outside the walls of the English city, where a large Roman Catholic church now stands, approached by a lane called Long Town. The present cathedral does not occupy the site of these earlier churches.

   Read the passage

   The present cathedral does not occupy the site of either of these churches. They lay outside the walls of the English city, where a large Roman Catholic church now stands, approached by a lane called " Long Town "—a memorial of the Round

   XV

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 140

5. Magilligan Point narrows Lough Foyle

   near Magilligan Point · promontory · Derry

   The most curious feature of Lough Foyle is the long spit of land called Magilligan Point, which runs out opposite Greencastle and reduces the width of the lough from eight miles to one.

   Read the passage

   Lough Foyle cannot contend in beauty with Mulroy, Lough Swilly, or Sheephaven. Above Moville it is rather the estuary of a river than an arm of the sea. The hills that shut it in rise in gentle slopes, except the square mass of Benevenagh, nearly opposite Moville ; but they are richly wooded, and on a sunny summer's evening it is beautiful enough. Its most curious feature is the long spit of land called Magilligan Point, which runs out opposite Greencastle, reducing the width of Lough Foyle from eight miles to one.

   XIV

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 136

6. Striking cliff scenery of Glen Head

   Glen Head · promontory · Donegal

   Glen Head rises suddenly as a huge cliff, often shrouded in mist, with a leaden sea breaking against its base and two great rocks standing at an angle. The author found it startlingly impressive.

   Read the passage

   But whether I forgot the Druids or no, there was no forgetting Glen Head ; suddenly the road turned and there it rose before me — a huge cliff shrouded in mist at top, with a leaden sea breaking round the base of it, and two great rocks standing up

   7o

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 46

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Glen Head, the cliffs here made a strong impression on one traveller who came this way. The road turned, and Glen Head rose suddenly before him, a huge cliff shrouded in mist at the top, with a leaden sea breaking round its base and two great rocks standing up. He said there was no forgetting it.

7. Carrick's free salmon rivers and lakes

   Carrick · town · Donegal

   Carrick offers two salmon rivers and several lakes absolutely free of charge, with anglers allowed to keep their fish, though a salmon license must be taken out at the hotel even if one already holds a license. The author describes it as a tempting offer he has not yet tried.

   Read the passage

   The first place is Carrick, where you are offered two salmon rivers and several lakes absolutely free of charge, and are allowed to keep your fish— only, you must take out a salmon license in the hotel even if you already have one. I have not tried the fishing, but mean to do so before long, for it is a tempting offer. Next comes Ardara, where the Ardara river is free, so are several brown trout loughs, but the Ownea is preserved, and Mr. McNelis, the hotel proprietor, rents about two miles of it above the tideway —beautiful fishing water where I lost a fine salmon. They say that in August the tide-

   312

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 196

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up through Carrick in Donegal, you'll find two salmon rivers and several lakes on offer absolutely free of charge, and anglers are allowed to keep their fish. The one catch is that you must take out a salmon license at the hotel, even if you already hold one. The author of this passage called it a tempting offer, though he admitted he had not yet tried the fishing himself.

8. Coolmore as a seaside watering-place

   Coolmore · townland · Cork

   Coolmore is described as a little watering-place between Ballyshannon and Donegal, reached by a coastal road past Assaroe. The Coolmore Road, though uneven, offers admirable seaward views of the Sligo coast and Slieve League.

   Read the passage

   The route I have indicated should bring you to Ballvshannon about lunch time. From there to Donegal is eleven miles by the post road with a telegraph wire to guide you. But the road runs inland to cut across the eastward trend of Donegal Bay. and if you have only just sighted the Atlantic you will scarcely care to turn your back upon it. So with all the afternoon before you, start along the road that leads past Assaroe and keep by the coast. Ask your way to Coolmore, which is a little watering-place between Ballvshannon and Donegal. About half a mile from the town a road turns to the left. Follow it for about a quarter of a mile or less and you will come on the ruins of the old Abbey of Ballvshannon — only a few walls. About three miles further down the river stands Kilbarron Castle, the home of the O'Clerys who furnished three out of the Four Masters : also a fragmentary ruin nowadays. Turn back to the Coolmore Road — which, I must own, though not too hill}-, presents a very uneven surface — and you will have as you go along a series of admirable views seaward : the Sligo coast on your left, and in front of you the northern coast of Donegal Bay ending in the gigantic mass of Slieve League. Avoid two

   42

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 28

9. Gartan Lough and its wooded demesne

   near Gartan Lough or Lough Beagh South · lake or lakes · Donegal

   Gartan Lough lies broad, peaceful, and island-studded between sloping shores, with a beautifully timbered private demesne along its south side. In June the road is lined with hawthorn and laburnum hedges, a striking contrast to the treeless west coast.

   Read the passage

   These, however, are "old, unhappy, far-off things;" and you will not have time to think much about them going down the hill from above Glen Beagh towards Gartan. I fancy that a good cyclist could run for about five miles here with his feet off the pedals, but for my own part the pace was too much for me, and there is one very ugly sharp turn over a little wooden bridge, so I give my warning. But a great deal of the road can be coasted with most perfect safety, and it continues to fall till you get to the level of the lake, which lies, broad, peaceful, and island-studded, between its sloping shores. A beautiful private demesne runs all along the south side of the lake, admirably timbered, and, on a

   vii GARTAN 93

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 60

10. Lough Barra under Glendowan mountain

    Lough Barra · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Lough Barra is described as a pristine, cold lake beneath Glendowan mountain, with white fresh-water sand on one side and no trees or sedge. The surrounding gorge resembles a Cumberland pass, with Glendowan rising on the right and views extending to Slieve Tooey near Glen Head.

    Read the passage

    day the view of Lough Barra should repay you for much. It lies, a perfectly pure cold sheet of water, under Glendowan mountain, with neither trees nor sedge about it, and one side surrounded with the shelving bank of crisp white fresh-water sand. To the left of the lake the road runs on through a gorge which reminded me of one of the gray Cumberland passes ; on the left were the precipitous slatey brows of some smaller hills, and over the lower slopes a shepherd and his dog were working some sheep — just a touch of life that threw into relief the wildness of the scene. On the right rose Glendowan, an easy climb, which would certainly be rewarded by a magnificent view, for at this point even from the road one can see almost to the Atlantic and easily distinguish Slieve Tooey and the other great hills near Glen Head. But I was late and tired on that road, and glad I was when I got to the watershed and after a short ride on the level top saw underneath me the long straight cleft of Glen Veagh with Mrs. Adair's castle looming large in the evening. My road turned to the right, skirting the mountain. On the hill-side was the high fence, which encloses the whole Adair property, and enclosed by that fence, on the southern side of the Glen Beagh mountain, is the Derry Beagh district, which causes the name of the Adair estate to be unhappily familiar.

    Lough Barra was the meeting place for one of the most disastrous military expeditions ever sent into Donegal. I doubt if soldiers were ever despatched on a less congenial duty than were the detachment who marched there on April 7th, 186 1, to protect the civil power in executing the Derry Beagh evictions.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 58

11. Dangers of Slieve League in the mist

    Slieve League · mountain or mountain range · Donegal

    The author warns tourists about the hazards of climbing Slieve League when it is shrouded in mist. Under such conditions, hiring a guide is considered essential for safety.

    Read the passage

    an hour's very fast walking brings you to the hotel. The whole thing should take an active man four or five hours. Tourists should be careful to believe what they are told about the dangers of Slieve League when it is capped with mist. Under these conditions a guide is indispensable. Any one who wishes to walk back across the mountain will find it rough work, and possibly dangerous, even on a clear day, to people who do not understand bogs. In a short cut which I took I saw several very nasty-looking places. The mountain is full of hares, which add a charm of wild life to it, and everywhere one is haunted by the pretty little snow buntings, a bird strange to English eyes.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 45

12. Drummonaghan Wood and its seasons

    Bridge End or Drummonaghan · townland · Donegal

    Drummonaghan Wood lies inside the road beside the river's fringe of snipe-haunted bog. It is noted for bilberries in summer and woodcock in winter, and is remembered as a place of pleasant recollections.

    Read the passage

    From above the Drummonaghan carry there is a very long stretch — about a mile and a half of deep smooth water. Indeed, Drummonaghan bridge is one of the prettiest spots in the country, with the river racing and tearing over the fall, under the bridge and down through a shaded gorge where trees almost meet above it ; while above the carry it stretches smooth past a green slope on its right bank and on its left a fringe of snipe-haunted bog, inside of which lies the road and inside that again Drummonaghan wood, full of bilberries in summer and woodcock in winter — a place of pleasant recollections. If you follow the stream on its right bank, you pass along a range of " holms " or water meadows, largely filled with rushes and cut by drains not easy to cross. This part of the river is little fished, and it is much hampered by trees, but there are good throws for salmon in it, and it is certainly full of trout. „ Probably, on a good day, if one could get a wind on it, it would be the best chance of all for a full basket, and the fish would run heavier. But in that country people turn up their noses at trout fishing, and in point of fact, when the good day comes, one is off after the delusive salmon. But I should very much like to see what a skilful dry fly fisher could do there on a calm evening in summer, dodging in and out between the trees. The ordinary Lennan trout is almost herring size — three or four to the pound. I have killed hundreds of them and not one in the hundred over a pound weight. But I have twice killed four dozen to my own rod, and that is a good day anywhere. Also I have known of big trout — 2lbs. and upwards— being got in the evenings about Claragh by dapping under the trees. However, this water between Claragh bridge and Drummonaghan

    XX

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 194

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Bridge End or Drummonaghan, Drummonaghan Wood lies inside the road beside the river, where a fringe of snipe-haunted bog runs along the water's edge. The bridge here is one of the prettiest spots in the country, with the river racing over a fall and down through a shaded gorge where trees almost meet above it. Above the bridge the water runs smooth and deep for about a mile and a half. The wood is full of bilberries in summer and woodcock in winter, and it is remembered as "a place of pleasant recollections." If you follow the stream along its right bank, you pass water meadows filled with rushes and cut by drains not easy to cross. This stretch of river is little fished and much hampered by trees, but it holds good salmon and is full of trout. The Lennan trout runs almost herring size, three or four to the pound. The author killed hundreds of them, never one over a pound, but twice took four dozen to his own rod. He believed a skilled dry fly fisher working a calm summer evening, dodging between the trees, might have the best chance of all for a full basket. Big trout of 2 pounds and upwards were taken in the evenings about Claragh by dapping under the trees.

13. Glen Louch and Owen Harrow on the Lackagh course

    near Glen Lough · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Glen Lough lies about two miles up the course of the Lackagh River, with the Owen Harrow flowing into its top. The Lackagh descends through a heathy valley with views of Lough Salt, Barnes Mountain, and the Glen Veagh hills.

    Read the passage

    Here you turn sharp to the left, passing a pretty little lake, then ride on over rather a rough road with one very bad little hill on it, until after about three miles you come to a bridge over the Lackagh river. If it is a fine day and bright, you can get off your bicycle and look into the pool under the bridge. It is odds but you will see salmon lying there in packs with their sides touching one another ; at all events you will have a lovely view of the river, coming down through a heathy valley, with a little wooding on the left bank, and away behind it the intricate foldings of Lough Salt, Barnes Mountain, and the Glen Veagh hills. On the left bank, by the way, there is a curious thing to be seen if you can find any one to show it you, just above the first pool on the river. It is a hiding hole under a rock with a tiny aperture scarcely bigger than a rabbit burrow. Into this you can creep, and find yourself in a space large enough to move a little about in. The place has been partly made up with masonry, and they say that within living memory a " boy who had done a bad turn " of some sort, hid himself there for two or three nights while the police were on his track, and eventually escaped. About two miles up the course of the Lackagh — its whole course — lies Glen Lough, and into the top of Glen Lough flows the Owen Harrow, which you will re-

    XII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 107

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you along Glen Lough, you are near a lake that sits about two miles up the course of the Lackagh River, with the Owen Harrow flowing into its top. The Lackagh comes down through a heathy valley, with a little wooding on one bank, and away behind it the foldings of Lough Salt, Barnes Mountain, and the Glen Veagh hills. There is a hiding hole under a rock just above the first pool on the river, partly made up with masonry. You creep in through a tiny aperture, scarcely bigger than a rabbit burrow, and find yourself in a space large enough to move about in. They say that within living memory a boy who had done a bad turn of some sort hid himself there for two or three nights while the police were on his track, and eventually escaped. Under the bridge over the Lackagh, on a fine bright day, you can look into the pool and see salmon lying there in packs, their sides touching one another.

14. Knocklayd: mountain at the head of Glen Shesk

    near Knocklayd · mountain or mountain range · Antrim

    Knocklayd rises to 1,600 feet at the head of Glen Shesk, from which the river flows down to Ballycastle. It dominates the inland landscape behind the town, with Fair Head rising across the bay.

    Read the passage

    At Ballycastle you leave the Route and reach the Glens, and a prettier preface to them you could not wish for than this clean little town standing at the mouth of a pleasant stream — but, like all the streams in the Glens, of little account for fishing — with plenty of wooding about it. Inland, Knocklayd rises to 1,600 feet at the head of Glen Shesk, whence the river flows, and beyond the bay Fair Head rises, a huge mass ; the shore has the bright clean sand, so delightful a feature of this coast. Inside the beach are golf links, quite good enough for the ordinary performer and on the bay itself is a very comfortable hotel— the Marine Hotel — which I saw at Easter contending feverishly with too much prosperity. However it is presumably not always overfull, and that was the only fault that one could find with it.

    The town proper stands about half-a-mile from the sea, and in it is the station of the narrow gauge Railway which runs down Glen Shesk from Ballymoney on the main line between Portrush and Belfast. A fine broad avenue with trees at either side connects the old town with the quarter down by the beach. Broad as this road is, on a fair day a bicyclist will have his work cut out to ride down it ; bolting pigs, jibbing heifers, and anxiously rushing drivers, make a series of hazards that can be dealt with singly, but are very awkward to get by when they happen to concentrate themselves in one spot. It is a thrilling but an amusing experience.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 164

15. Lough Salt mountain on the old Dunfanaghy road

    near Lough Salt · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Lough Salt is described as the chief point in the range between Sheephaven and the Lennan valley, with a serrated top 1,500 feet high. An old road to Dunfanaghy, now disused as the main route, crosses the shoulder of the ridge above the mountain.

    Read the passage

    Such is the tale as Caesar Otway tells it on the authority of Dr. Hastings, and if it is not true I can only say that other wilder and queerer stories still are truly enough told of this queer, wild country. But you will have had lunch and be ready to start for Doon Well. Crossing the bridge over the Lurgy and proceeding along the high road to Dunfanaghy, you will first meet an old road that continues its course straight up the hill. This used to be the only way to Dunfanaghy, crossing the shoulder of the ridge above Lough Salt, which is the chief point, with its serrated top 1,500 feet high, in the range between Sheephaven and the Lennan valley. A delightful road it is to walk, but too hilly and rough for cyclists. On the south side of Lough Salt mountain lies Lough Kiel, a good fishing lake, in almost the wildest and

    VIII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 69

16. Prevailing west wind between Gweedore and Glenties

    near Gweedore · locality · Donegal

    The author discovered by bitter experience that between Gweedore and Glenties the wind blows from the west six days a week, most often from the south-west. He therefore advised touring Donegal from west to east to avoid riding head-on into the prevailing wind.

    Read the passage

    Assuming then that you want to go round the coast of Donegal and Antrim, why go from Ballyshannon to Lame rather than from Larne to Ballyshannon ? The excellent reason which I discovered by bitter experience between Gweedore and Glenties, is that six days in the week in that country the wind blows from the west and oftenest from the south-west. Therefore, for whatever distance you make your tours, go from west to east. That is the first main point, the guiding principle. As to details, my experience points to the fact that if you ride your bicycle to Euston and label it, it will arrive safely enough, but if you pack it in a case or take any trouble of that sort you will probably have to disinter the fragments. So long as a bicycle has a will of its own and can swerve and hit people in the legs, it makes itself respected ; when it is reduced to the condition of helpless luggage, porters, who hate bicycles, take advantage of it. The Irish railways are very moderate in their charge for bicycle tickets and in many cases have a special arrangement of slings in the vans for carrying them, an excellent institution.

    I

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Gweedore, there is something worth knowing about the wind. One writer learned by bitter experience that between here and Glenties the wind blows from the west six days a week, and most often from the south-west. His advice was to tour Donegal from west to east, so you are not riding head-on into it all day. He called this the guiding principle of going round the coast of Donegal and Antrim. He also had a word about bicycles. If you rode to Euston and labelled your bicycle, it would arrive safely enough. But if you packed it in a case, you would probably have to disinter the fragments. So long as a bicycle could swerve and hit people in the legs, it made itself respected. Once it became helpless luggage, porters took advantage of it. He noted that the Irish railways charged moderately for bicycle tickets and had slings in the vans for carrying them.

17. Rathmullen's historic harbour

    Rathmullan · town · Donegal

    Rathmullen, reachable by steamer from Fahan across Lough Swilly, is a pretty harbour town with vivid historic associations that the author says should not be left unvisited.

    Read the passage

    This pretty little harbour is, perhaps, the spot in all Tyrconnell

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 116

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Rathmullan, on Lough Swilly. This pretty little harbour is, perhaps, 'the spot in all Tyrconnell.' You can reach it by steamer from Fahan across the lough. Its historic associations are vivid, and it should not be left unvisited.

18. Tormore island: seabird colony and fatal accident

    Tormore · minor feature · Donegal

    Tormore, an island a couple of miles off the coast near Malin Head, is famous as a gathering place for seabirds during breeding season. It was also ill-reputed for a recent fatal boating accident.

    Read the passage

    We plunged along the cliff front in the driving mist, and ultimately struck a road leading out to the Sturrell itself, which is a high conical piece of rock, with a limitless drop below it. At this point the youths of that side of the Glen are in the habit of climbing down the cliff face in search of strayed sheep. From the Sturrell there should be a view of the Rosses and Aranmore, far away north ; but this day we could not even see Tormore, the island a couple of miles out, famous as a wonderful gathering of sea-birds in the breeding season, ill-reputed for a recent fatal boating accident. Having seen we came down, passing Columbkille's holy well, which is not a place where cures

    74

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 49

19. Watersmeet at Glenariff

    near Glenariff · village · Antrim

    The Watersmeet, or Ess-na-Craoibhe, is a notable spot at the foot of Glenariff where visitors can find a tea house. The north side of the glen features four waterfalls with enormous drops that form beautiful silvery streaks down the hillside.

    Read the passage

    Once you have reached this stair you may, with a clear conscience, turn back, unless you wish to walk to the very head of the wooding and look out on the open heather ; but in any case be sure to come down the other side of the stream, so as not to miss the Watersmeet, Ess-na-Craoibhe, and your tea.

    IVaterfoot, looking up the Vale of Glen Ariff.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 184

20. Birthplace of George Farquhar in Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry

    For twenty-eight years after the Restoration, the author notes nothing of historical interest in Derry except the birth of the dramatist George Farquhar. He was born in the town during this period of relative quiet.

    Read the passage

    From the Restoration onwards I note nothing of interest in the history of Derry for twenty-eight years, save the birth there of George Farquhar the dramatist. In 1688 began signs of change. James II. displaced the Corporation of the city and appointed Catholics — this was in the autumn. In November ^'illiam landed at Torbay. James thought by his measures,

    220

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 142

21. Doe Castle at the estuary of the Lackagh

    Doe Castle · electoral division · Donegal

    Doe Castle stands near where the Lackagh estuary meets the Faymore River. It is situated along the indented shores of Sheephaven, where the coastline curves into lesser bays.

    Read the passage

    avenue, sometimes under trees, sometimes with glimpses peering out of the lesser bays, each beautiful, into which the shores of Sheephaven are curved and cut, and further along through green sloping pastures, where rabbits play and scuttle in droves to cover in front of you, you will get back into the road and cross a little river — the Faymore — that comes down from Muckish. There is a salmon-leap here, artistically built, but it is only a spawning river ; the fish come into the Lackagh — whose estuary meets it near Doe Castle— as early as March, but up here they never go till September ; why, is one of the many mysteries connected with that unaccountable fish. Pushing on another two miles you will reach the little town of Creeslough.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 107

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through the area of Doe Castle in Donegal, the road takes you along the indented shores of Sheephaven, where the coastline curves into lesser bays, each beautiful in its own way. You cross the little Faymore River, which comes down from Muckish. There is a salmon-leap here, artistically built, though the Faymore is only a spawning river. The fish come into the Lackagh, whose estuary meets the Faymore near Doe Castle, as early as March, but they never come up this far till September. Why that is remains one of the many mysteries connected with that unaccountable fish. From here, pushing on another 2 miles brings you to the little town of Creeslough.

22. Plumb cliffs at Glen Head and Horn Head

    near Horn Head · promontory · Donegal

    The author compares the cliffs at the One Man's Path on Slieve League to those at Glen Head and Horn Head, noting that the latter two have absolutely plumb (vertical) cliff faces, unlike the steep but not perfectly vertical slopes at Slieve League.

    Read the passage

    slope. It is my opinion that if you fell off the One Man's Path on the landside you would roll down with little damage, and that if you fell off on the seaward side you would be able to stop yourself by clinging to the heather. My guide — for I took the gentleman with the ass as a guide — was of a very different opinion ; and there is no doubt that although the cliffs here are not absolutely plumb — as they are at Glen Head and Horn Head — you could toboggan down them with every certainty of a speedy run to the bottom. But the One Man's Path is nothing to be afraid of. Your guide, if you have one, will industriously try to frighten you, and then flatter you when you have got across. All I can say for mine is that he was genuinely afraid, for he declined to carry my macintosh over the place, on the ground that his boots were bad ; and I had to wear it, which gave me an insight into the difficulties of cliff work for ladies. The path can be circumvented on the inner side, and with a strong wind may be an ugly spot enough to cross. Oddly enough, the day I was there some eddy of wind protected it from blasts, though a little further up one could hardly stand.

    Further on a little, one sees the Chimneys — some not very interesting pinnacles of rock— half-way down the cliff, but the view from the top is wonderful. The whole of Donegal Bay and the Sligo coast is spread out to the south and south-west ; inland are the mountains from Lough Erne to the Glen Beagh range, and north-east you see Glen Bay and Glen Head, and the coast away up by Ardara and Glenties. West and northwest stretches the limitless Atlantic. On a bright sunny day, with wind about one, that place gives the sense of immense space more strongly than I ever experienced it before. On a ship you have sea all about you — perhaps nothing but sea — but you are not looking straight over ocean and land at once from a height of twro thousand feet.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 44

23. Coleraine sieges of 1641 and 1689

    near Coleraine · town · Derry · 1641–1689

    Coleraine withstood a siege in 1641 and again in 1689. On the latter occasion the garrison was driven out and had to throw themselves into Derry for safety.

    Read the passage

    The populous English colony was, of course, an object of attack in times of rebellion. Coleraine stood a siege in 1641, and again in 1689 ; on the latter occasion, the garrison were

    XVI

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 153

24. Fishing at Lough Auva

    Lough Auva · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The author cycled over a hill crest to Lough Auva, where he spent an hour fishing from the bank. Despite the windy conditions, he caught two very small trout.

    Read the passage

    wound through boggy flats. After about a mile, a road turned to the left, crossing the river by a wooden bridge, but this led up Slieve League, so I went on over the crest of the hill and came to Lough Auva which was being lashed by the westerly wind. Here I stopped and fished the lough from the bank for an hour or so ; if you care to know the bag, it consisted of two trout of which the larger might have weighed so much as one ounce : they are both growing bigger and wiser as I write. An old watcher who hailed me to see my pass for the fishing spoke of the river below as the Yellow River, from which I infer that Owen Wee is really Owen Buidhe — Owen simply means " river " and " buidhe " is " yellow." This old gentleman comforted me with the assurance that it was only two miles to Malinmore, and that I would go down " like thundher." I did not make so much noise as thunder, and I was much below the pace of lightning, but still I had a downward slope, and after a while met a view of the sea and Rathlin O'Byrn Island ; when I got to the village of Malinmore the road turned sharp to the right past a coastguard station, and I had the wind nearly behind me and sailed along so cheerfully that I forgot to look out for the Druidic remains on my left. Lest you should do so, I will quote Mr. Cooke's description of them. Cloghanmore is an oval enclosure internally measuring forty-eight by thirty-six feet. At the west end are two double chambers roofed with enormous flags, and traces of others adjoining. Two cells exist in the wall on opposite sides near the entrance. The enclosing wall is modern. On the opposite side of the road are two standing stones seven feet high and a fine cromlech. Six more cromlechs (almost trop de luxe) " are to be seen while passing through the village and another as we turn north towards Glen."

    But whether I forgot the Druids or no, there was no forgetting Glen Head ; suddenly the road turned and there it rose before me — a huge cliff shrouded in mist at top, with a leaden sea breaking round the base of it, and two great rocks standing up

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass Lough Auva in Donegal, the lake comes into view where the westerly wind lashes the water. A traveller once cycled over the crest of a hill to reach this lough and spent an hour fishing from the bank. The catch was modest: two trout, the larger weighing no more than one ounce. An old watcher stopped him to check his fishing pass and told him the river below was called the Yellow River, from the Irish Owen Buidhe, meaning yellow river. The watcher said it was only two miles to Malinmore and that the road would carry him down fast. The author reckoned he made less noise than thunder and moved slower than lightning, but the downward slope helped, and before long the sea and Rathlin O'Byrn Island opened up before him.

25. Lough Kiel, fishing lake south of Lough Salt

    Lough Keel · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Lough Kiel lies on the south side of Lough Salt mountain and is described as a good fishing lake situated in almost the wildest and most remote country in the area.

    Read the passage

    Such is the tale as Caesar Otway tells it on the authority of Dr. Hastings, and if it is not true I can only say that other wilder and queerer stories still are truly enough told of this queer, wild country. But you will have had lunch and be ready to start for Doon Well. Crossing the bridge over the Lurgy and proceeding along the high road to Dunfanaghy, you will first meet an old road that continues its course straight up the hill. This used to be the only way to Dunfanaghy, crossing the shoulder of the ridge above Lough Salt, which is the chief point, with its serrated top 1,500 feet high, in the range between Sheephaven and the Lennan valley. A delightful road it is to walk, but too hilly and rough for cyclists. On the south side of Lough Salt mountain lies Lough Kiel, a good fishing lake, in almost the wildest and

    VIII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 69

26. Malin Hall, most northerly gentleman's residence

    Malin · town · Donegal

    Malin Hall, located near the village of Malin, is described as the most northerly gentleman's residence in Ireland. It is noted as a very pretty, well-kept place, passed when turning left out of the little town of Malin on the way to Malin Head.

    Read the passage

    You would presumably lunch at Carndonagh, and go on to Malin Head if an extra twenty miles is not too far. The first three miles you follow the. telegraph over a level road into the village of Malin. Reaching this little town you turn out of it to the left, passing Malin Hall, the most northerly gentleman's residence in Ireland, and a very pretty well-kept place it looks.

    H.JtTYSi /« the /frSBfc

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 134

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Malin, you pass Malin Hall, the most northerly gentleman's residence in Ireland. It's a very pretty, well-kept place, on the left as you turn out of the little town toward Malin Head. The road here follows the telegraph over level ground for the first three miles from Carndonagh.

27. Ruins of the old Abbey of Ballyshannon

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal

    About half a mile from Ballyshannon, reached by a road turning left, stand the ruins of the old Abbey of Ballyshannon, now reduced to only a few walls.

    Read the passage

    The route I have indicated should bring you to Ballvshannon about lunch time. From there to Donegal is eleven miles by the post road with a telegraph wire to guide you. But the road runs inland to cut across the eastward trend of Donegal Bay. and if you have only just sighted the Atlantic you will scarcely care to turn your back upon it. So with all the afternoon before you, start along the road that leads past Assaroe and keep by the coast. Ask your way to Coolmore, which is a little watering-place between Ballvshannon and Donegal. About half a mile from the town a road turns to the left. Follow it for about a quarter of a mile or less and you will come on the ruins of the old Abbey of Ballvshannon — only a few walls. About three miles further down the river stands Kilbarron Castle, the home of the O'Clerys who furnished three out of the Four Masters : also a fragmentary ruin nowadays. Turn back to the Coolmore Road — which, I must own, though not too hill}-, presents a very uneven surface — and you will have as you go along a series of admirable views seaward : the Sligo coast on your left, and in front of you the northern coast of Donegal Bay ending in the gigantic mass of Slieve League. Avoid two

    42

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ballyshannon, the old abbey lies about half a mile from the town, down a road turning left. There is not much left of it now. Only a few walls stand where the old Abbey of Ballyshannon once was. The road that leads to it runs past Assaroe and keeps by the coast, but the abbey itself keeps its silence about what it was.

28. Cromlech at Kerrykeel

    Carrowkeel · town · Donegal

    A cromlech stands at Kerrykeel, visible along the road between Rosapenna and Portsalon. It is noted as a passing antiquity on the Fanad peninsula route.

    Read the passage

    you pass the farmhouse where the once celebrated Miss Paterson, Jerome Bonaparte's first wife, is said to have first seen the light. Continue until you come to a point where the telegraph wires diverge, and then, unless you want to go to Milford, turn to the left, and the road will take you past Lord Leitrim's store and mill, along a level eight miles down the Fanad shore of Mulroy ; so that you will see the lough in all its aspects, and, it is to be hoped, in all its beauty. The road to Portsalon turns off to the right, before you reach the village of Tamney. At Kerrykeel, which you pass on the way, is a cromlech. The Portsalon road is hilly, but direct, and soon brings you in sight of the waters of Lough Swilly. The whole ride from Rosa- "penna may be put at twenty-three miles.

    Colonel Barton's hotel at Portsalon is, perhaps, the best known of all these Donegal hotels at present, owing to the fortunate circumstance that he has discovered at his door one of the three best golf links in Ireland ; but the hotel was started before golf came to give an impetus to tourist traffic in Donegal, and its owner deserves the credit of a pioneer. The history of it is roughly this : the Government built a pier in Ballymastocker Bay, and Colonel Barton perceived the possibility of working in conjunction with the steamer that should bring excursionists down from Derry. Naturally he applied for a spirit license as hotel-keeper, and this brought about a violent opposition from the neighbouring publican. The opposition was overruled by the Licensing Bench, and Colonel Barker got his license. The defeated rival, who was a Catholic and Nationalist, went away, cursing by all his gods against the "bloody Orange majority." "Ah well," he said to a knot of his sympathisers, "let him alone, boys ; wait till he gets to hell. He'll find no Orange majority there."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 113

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Carrowkeel on the Fanad peninsula, you are on the road between Rosapenna and Portsalon, and at Kerrykeel along this route stands a cromlech. The book notes it simply as an antiquity you pass on the way, a single marker of old Ireland on a road that otherwise runs along the shore of Mulroy for some miles. No more is said of it than that it is there.

29. Ramelton village on the Lennan

    Rathmelton · town · Donegal

    Ramelton is described as a village of about 1,500 people situated in the valley of the River Lennan at its mouth on Lough Swilly. It had a hotel called the Stewart Arms, making it a practical headquarters for anglers.

    Read the passage

    One of the best spots in the county for an angler to pitch his headquarters is Ramelton, a village of some 1,500 people, situated in the valley of the Lennan, at the point where it flows into Lough Swilly. There is a hotel there— The Stewart Arms — which needs only good management to make it comfortable enough, but I cannot speak of it from experience, and the

    3°4

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 191

    As the companion tells it

    Ramelton sits in the valley of the River Lennan where it flows into Lough Swilly. About 1,500 people live in this village, which the book calls one of the best spots in the county for an angler to pitch his headquarters. There is a hotel here, the Stewart Arms, said to need only good management to make it comfortable enough.

30. Columbkill's monastery on Tory Island

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal

    Ruins of churches on Tory Island mark the site where Columbkill founded a monastery, representing a step nearer to documented history than the island's legendary Fomorian past.

    Read the passage

    A step nearer to history is marked by the ruins of churches on Tory, where Columbkill founded a monastery.

    Carrying Peat.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 102

31. Flight of the Earls from Rathmullan

    Rathmullan · town · Donegal · 1607

    On September 14th, 1607, the Earls of Tyrone and Tyrconnell embarked from a ship lying off Rathmullen in Lough Swilly, fleeing Ireland permanently. The party included O'Neill and O'Donnell nobility, their families, and attendants — described by the Four Masters as the most illustrious company the sea had carried from Ireland in modern times.

    Read the passage

    direct with the urraghts and induce them " to depend wholly and immediately upon the Crown." O'Kane was prompted by Montgomery, Bishop of Deny, a leading politician and helper in the good work of pacification, to revive the case. Tyrone was summoned to Dublin, and the matter was referred thence to the King's decision. Tyrone was led to believe that his arrest was intended — and he was probably right ; so hearing that one of the Maguireshad provided a vessel for him, he made a hasty flight to the North. Meanwhile Rory O'Donnell had not been happier in his relations with Government. There were perpetual quarrels with Neil Garv, though it seems that Chichester did that warrior very scant justice. Rory plotted a coup de main on Dublin Castle, and hoped for Tyrone's support — whether with or without ground no one knows. The whole circumstances that led up to the " Flight of the Earls " are mysterious. At all events, when the Earl of Tyrone reached Lough Swilly, the Earl of Tyrconnell was waiting for him at Rathmullen on a great and lamentable day in the history of that little town. Tyrone, after his hurried journey from Slane, met Donnell O'Donnell at Raphoe ; they travelled all night, and dawn was rising on them as they went through Rathmelton— a company of fifty or sixty persons. Off Rathmullen lay the ship of eighty tons that Maguire had chartered. On her embarked, on September 14th, 1607, the great Earl of Tyrone, his Countess, and his three sons by her ; the son of their eldest son ; and several other O'Neills of the great house, and their attendants. With them went the Earl of Tyrconnell ; his brother Caffar O'Donnell, and his sister Nuala, wife of Neil Garv, who had abandoned her husband when Neil abandoned his chief ; Tyrconnell's son Hugh, afterwards page to the Infanta of Spain ; Caffar's wife, and many others.

    " This was a distinguished crew for one ship," says the Four Masters ; " for indeed it is certain that the sea had not supported and the winds had not wafted from Ireland in modern times a party of one ship who would have been more illustrious

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 130

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Rathmullan in Donegal, you are passing the little town where one of the most momentous departures in Irish history took place. In September 1607, the Earls of Tyrone and Tyrconnell boarded a ship lying off the town in Lough Swilly and left Ireland for good. Tyrone had fled north after hearing that one of the Maguires had provided a vessel for him, convinced that his arrest was intended in Dublin. He travelled from Slane, met Donnell O'Donnell at Raphoe, and they rode all night, a company of 50 or 60 persons, dawn rising as they passed through Rathmelton. The Earl of Tyrconnell was already waiting at Rathmullan. The ship, 80 tons, chartered by Maguire, carried the great Earl of Tyrone, his Countess, and their three sons, the son of their eldest son, and several other O'Neills of the great house, with their attendants. With them went Tyrconnell, his brother Caffar O'Donnell, and his sister Nuala, wife of Neil Garv, who had abandoned her husband when Neil abandoned his chief. Tyrconnell's son Hugh, afterwards page to the Infanta of Spain, also sailed, along with Caffar's wife and many others. The Four Masters called them a distinguished crew for one ship, saying the sea had not supported and the winds had not wafted from Ireland in modern times a party more illustrious.

32. Battle of Curlew Hills — rout of the English

    near Curlew Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Roscommon · 1599

    Red Hugh O'Donnell posted himself on the Curlew Hills to await the English relief force under Sir Conyers Clifford. On August 15th the English were hopelessly routed and Clifford was slain along with many other leaders.

    Read the passage

    of patrimony by an Englishman, should be reinstated. Essex marched first into Munster, but returned unsuccessful ; and meanwhile O'Conor of Sligo was closely beleaguered in his one remaining castle of Colooney by Red Hugh. Essex ordered Clifford to relieve him • and Red Hugh, having completed his blockade of the castle, cheerfully posted himself on the Curlew Hills to wait for the English ; the fight took place on August 15th, and ended with the hopeless rout of the English. Sir Conyers Clifford was slain, with many other leaders. O'Conor submitted to Red Hugh on the sight of Clifford's head, shown as a lamentable proof of the truth. And on the top of this further blow to the English ascendency, came a new failure of Essex, who, after an abortive expedition into Ulster, patched up a truce with O'Neill and hastened back to his ruin in England.

    It was by this time definitely understood that O'Neill stood not only for the Irish against the English, but for the freedom of his faith : and Elizabeth would grant no indulgence to the Catholics. Yet he still made the fatal error of delaying and diplomatising, while Elizabeth poured into the country yet another great army, under Mountjoy and Sir George Carew. At last, however, in 1600, he called a hosting, and marched southwards through Meath, Westmeath, and King's County. But Hugh Maguire, his right hand man, was cut off by Sir Warham St. Leger in a plundering expedition near Cork, where the leaders fell by each other's hand. Except this, little came of the hosting ; O'Neill returned to Tyrone no stronger than he left it, and Carew began steadily to reduce Munster to subjection. Also an attack was made on Ulster from a new quarter. The Irish had no ships ; Elizabeth could strike where she pleased, and in April a fleet under Sir Henry Docwra put into Lough Foyle. They erected three forts : one at Dunnalong on the east or Derry shore in Tyrone's country ; and two in O'Donnell's country, at Culmore in Inishowen, and at Derry, which was then the seat of the great monastery, Columb-

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 124

33. Docwra destroys Derry monastery and cathedral

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1600

    Derry was the seat of the great monastery of Columbkille's first foundation. Sir Henry Docwra tore down the monastery and cathedral, destroyed all the ecclesiastical edifices in the town, and erected houses and apartments from the materials.

    Read the passage

    kille's first foundation. Sir Henry Docwra "tore down the monastery and cathedral, and destroyed all the ecclesiastical edifices in the town and erected houses and apartments of them."

    Fear of attack confined Docwra to his entrenchments ; he had 4,000 men, but sickness spread among them; and Red Hugh left the O'Doherty of Inishowen to watch Culmore, and Neil Garv, his cousin, to blockade Deny, while he himself marched through Connaught and levied war on Thomond, the home of the O'Briens in Clare. But meanwhile Neil Garv was in correspondence with Docwra, who promised him that lordship of Tyrconnell which he held should have been his — not Red Hugh's : and, finally, he went over with about 100 men and, what was more valuable, minute knowledge of O'DonnelPs forces. Within a week, under his guidance, Docwra surprised the castle at Lifford, though a trusty soldier set fire to it before it could be taken. In two day's fighting against Red Hugh which followed, Neil did excellent service, by Docwra' s own account, and the most Hugh Roe could effect was to keep in check the English forces at Lifford. Docwra explicitly states his obligation to the help of Neil, " without whose intelligence and guidance little or nothing could have been done of ourselves." But, for all that, little good came to Neil of his desertion or of the valour that he showed against his own people ; and contentions soon set in between him and Docwra. In 1 60 1, John O'Doherty died, and, as I have told before, Red Hugh — who held his son Cahir as a hostage — preferred that Phelim, brother of John, should succeed. But Cahir O'Doherty was a fosterer of the Macdevitts, a strong clan on the eastern shore of Lough Swilly, and they bitterly resented this slight to him. Hatred of the English was a light thing compared with this strange tie, far stronger among Celts than blood kinship, and they went to Docwra and begged him take up the cause of Cahir ; which he, naturally desirous to split a hostile clan, did : and so it came to pass that Cahir had Inishowen, and the O'Dohertys came over to the English.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 125

34. Docwra erects fort at Dunnalong on the Foyle

    Dunnalong · townland · Tyrone · 1600

    In April 1600 a fleet under Sir Henry Docwra put into Lough Foyle and erected three forts, including one at Dunnalong on the east or Derry shore in Tyrone's country, giving the English a foothold in O'Neill's territory.

    Read the passage

    It was by this time definitely understood that O'Neill stood not only for the Irish against the English, but for the freedom of his faith : and Elizabeth would grant no indulgence to the Catholics. Yet he still made the fatal error of delaying and diplomatising, while Elizabeth poured into the country yet another great army, under Mountjoy and Sir George Carew. At last, however, in 1600, he called a hosting, and marched southwards through Meath, Westmeath, and King's County. But Hugh Maguire, his right hand man, was cut off by Sir Warham St. Leger in a plundering expedition near Cork, where the leaders fell by each other's hand. Except this, little came of the hosting ; O'Neill returned to Tyrone no stronger than he left it, and Carew began steadily to reduce Munster to subjection. Also an attack was made on Ulster from a new quarter. The Irish had no ships ; Elizabeth could strike where she pleased, and in April a fleet under Sir Henry Docwra put into Lough Foyle. They erected three forts : one at Dunnalong on the east or Derry shore in Tyrone's country ; and two in O'Donnell's country, at Culmore in Inishowen, and at Derry, which was then the seat of the great monastery, Columb-

    o

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 124

35. Neil Garv's treachery — surprise of Lifford Castle

    Lifford · townland · Donegal · 1600

    Neil Garv O'Donnell, Red Hugh's cousin, defected to Docwra and guided English forces to surprise the castle at Lifford. A trusty soldier set fire to the castle before it could be taken, and two days of fighting followed against Red Hugh.

    Read the passage

    Fear of attack confined Docwra to his entrenchments ; he had 4,000 men, but sickness spread among them; and Red Hugh left the O'Doherty of Inishowen to watch Culmore, and Neil Garv, his cousin, to blockade Deny, while he himself marched through Connaught and levied war on Thomond, the home of the O'Briens in Clare. But meanwhile Neil Garv was in correspondence with Docwra, who promised him that lordship of Tyrconnell which he held should have been his — not Red Hugh's : and, finally, he went over with about 100 men and, what was more valuable, minute knowledge of O'DonnelPs forces. Within a week, under his guidance, Docwra surprised the castle at Lifford, though a trusty soldier set fire to it before it could be taken. In two day's fighting against Red Hugh which followed, Neil did excellent service, by Docwra' s own account, and the most Hugh Roe could effect was to keep in check the English forces at Lifford. Docwra explicitly states his obligation to the help of Neil, " without whose intelligence and guidance little or nothing could have been done of ourselves." But, for all that, little good came to Neil of his desertion or of the valour that he showed against his own people ; and contentions soon set in between him and Docwra. In 1 60 1, John O'Doherty died, and, as I have told before, Red Hugh — who held his son Cahir as a hostage — preferred that Phelim, brother of John, should succeed. But Cahir O'Doherty was a fosterer of the Macdevitts, a strong clan on the eastern shore of Lough Swilly, and they bitterly resented this slight to him. Hatred of the English was a light thing compared with this strange tie, far stronger among Celts than blood kinship, and they went to Docwra and begged him take up the cause of Cahir ; which he, naturally desirous to split a hostile clan, did : and so it came to pass that Cahir had Inishowen, and the O'Dohertys came over to the English.

    XIII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 125

36. O'Doherty sacks Culmore and Derry

    near Culmore · town · Derry · 1608

    In 1608, Sir Cahir O'Doherty, in revenge for an insult, sacked Culmore and Derry. This act of rebellion led to accusations of complicity against Neil Garv O'Donnell and marked the final collapse of native Gaelic power in the region.

    Read the passage

    Neil Garv, now admittedly the head of the clan, was not more fortunate. In 1608 he was charged with complicity in the treason of Sir Cahir O'Doherty, who, in revenge for an insult, sacked Culmore and Derry. Among the accusers was Ineen Dhu, Red Hugh's fierce mother, whose resentment neither time nor infirmity could abate. He surrendered, being promised a protection by the Treasurer Ridgeway. Sir John Davies, the Attorney-General, had no difficulty in proving complicity to the satisfaction of his employers, but could not be sure whether the protection had any binding force on the Government which issued it. While the Government were endeavouring to find an excuse for going back on their pledged word, Neil was kept in prison. He was tried in June, 1609, and by a device henceforward familiar, the Crown tried to drive the jury to convict. They were kept three days without food, but as they expressed their determination to starve rather than condemn, they were dismissed without giving a verdict. Neil was, therefore, neither innocent nor guilty, and was sent to the Tower till the matter should be decided. His son, Naghtan, who had been a student of St. John's College, Oxford, and afterwards of Trinity College, Dublin, was sent with him. The question of Neil's guilt was still unsettled seventeen years later in 1626, when he died in captivity. Naghtan's fate is not known : it is to be hoped that he did not live so long.

    At all events, it is pretty clear that, after 1609, there was no leading O'Donnell left in Tyrconnell. Daniel O'Donnell, a soldier, first of James II., and afterwards of Louis XIV. and Louis XV., had in his possession, as I said above, the cathach of Columbkille, and left it, by his will, to whatever person could prove himself to be the head of the O'Donnells. But as succession to the O'Donnellship, and all other chieftaincies in Ireland, went by semi-elective decisions and not by

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 132

    As the companion tells it

    You are near Culmore now. In 1608, Sir Cahir O'Doherty, in revenge for an insult, sacked Culmore and Derry, and this was the final collapse of native Gaelic power in the region. The fallout reached Neil Garv O'Donnell, head of his clan, who was charged with complicity in the treason. Among his accusers was Ineen Dhu, Red Hugh's fierce mother, whose resentment neither time nor infirmity could abate. Neil surrendered after being promised protection by Treasurer Ridgeway, but Sir John Davies, the Attorney-General, could not be sure whether that protection had any binding force on the Government that issued it. While the Government tried to find an excuse for going back on their pledged word, Neil was kept in prison. He was tried in June 1609, and the Crown tried to drive the jury to convict. They were kept three days without food, but as they expressed their determination to starve rather than condemn, they were dismissed without giving a verdict. Neil was therefore neither innocent nor guilty, and was sent to the Tower. His son Naghtan, who had been a student at St John's College, Oxford, and afterwards at Trinity College, Dublin, was sent with him. The question of Neil's guilt was still unsettled seventeen years later, in 1626, when he died in captivity. Naghtan's fate is not known. After 1609, there was no leading O'Donnell left in Tyrconnell.

37. Rathmullen Abbey garrisoned by English

    Rathmullan · town · Donegal · 1600–1601

    After the English seized a thousand cattle from MaeSwiney of Fanad, the chief submitted and a garrison of 150 men was placed in Rathmullen Abbey. MaeSwiney later revolted, but his hostages were hanged and his lands plundered.

    Read the passage

    Rathmullen comes again into the story now, for in this year the English made a descent upon MaeSwiney of Fanad, and seized a thousand of his cattle ; whereupon the chief submitted, and a garrison of 150 men was put in Rathmullen Abbey. MaeSwiney revolted ; but his hostages were hanged, his lands plundered, and he was forced to give new pledges. So strong was Docwra growing, as the English had always done, by using dissensions among the native Irish.

    Yet hitherto nothing had been accomplished of any great moment. But in the summer of 1601, while Red Hugh was on a march into Connaught against an Anglo-Irish force, Neil Garv crossed Tyrconnell, marched through Barnes Gap and encamped at Donegal. Red Hugh hastened back to reclaim his own, and beleaguered his cousin in the monastery. The siege lasted till a store of powder in the monastery blew up, and the place was carried by assault ; Neil Garv escaped, and brought up a relief force under cover of the fire of a ship, and he and his men resisted inside the walls of the monastery till, in October, word came toRed Hugh that a Spanish fleet had landed at Kinsale under Don Juan de Aquila. Hugh at once set out, marched through Roscommon and Galway, crossed the Shannon, and waited for O'Neill near Roscrea. Carew was sent to block his way towards Kinsale; but a heavy frost set in, and Red Hugh made good use of it, for he crossed the boggy mountain of Slieve Phelim in the night and covered thirty-two Irish miles on the march, "the greatest," wrote Carew, "with carriage that hath been heard of " : and finally effected his junction with O'Neill on the Bandon river. Mount] oy was already besieging the Spaniards in Kinsale : O'Neill and Red Hugh came down to blockade Mountjoy, and cut off his

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 126

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Rathmullan in Donegal, you are passing a place that became an English stronghold around 1600. The English seized a thousand cattle from MaeSwiney of Fanad, and the chief submitted. A garrison of 150 men was put in Rathmullen Abbey. MaeSwiney revolted after that, but his hostages were hanged and his lands plundered, and he was forced to give new pledges. The English commander Docwra was growing strong, as the English had always done, by using dissensions among the native Irish. The story did not end there. In the summer of 1601, while Red Hugh was on a march into Connaught, Neil Garv crossed Tyrconnell and encamped at Donegal. Red Hugh hastened back and beleaguered his cousin in the monastery. The siege lasted until a store of powder in the monastery blew up and the place was carried by assault. Neil Garv escaped and brought up a relief force under cover of the fire of a ship, and he and his men resisted inside the walls of the monastery. In October, word came that a Spanish fleet had landed at Kinsale under Don Juan de Aquila, and Red Hugh set out at once to join O'Neill.

38. Red Hugh assigns O'Doherty to watch Culmore

    near Culmore · town · Derry · 1600

    After Docwra erected a fort at Culmore in Inishowen, Red Hugh O'Donnell left the O'Doherty of Inishowen to watch Culmore while Neil Garv was assigned to blockade Derry. This was part of the Irish response to the English foothold on Lough Foyle.

    Read the passage

    Fear of attack confined Docwra to his entrenchments ; he had 4,000 men, but sickness spread among them; and Red Hugh left the O'Doherty of Inishowen to watch Culmore, and Neil Garv, his cousin, to blockade Deny, while he himself marched through Connaught and levied war on Thomond, the home of the O'Briens in Clare. But meanwhile Neil Garv was in correspondence with Docwra, who promised him that lordship of Tyrconnell which he held should have been his — not Red Hugh's : and, finally, he went over with about 100 men and, what was more valuable, minute knowledge of O'DonnelPs forces. Within a week, under his guidance, Docwra surprised the castle at Lifford, though a trusty soldier set fire to it before it could be taken. In two day's fighting against Red Hugh which followed, Neil did excellent service, by Docwra' s own account, and the most Hugh Roe could effect was to keep in check the English forces at Lifford. Docwra explicitly states his obligation to the help of Neil, " without whose intelligence and guidance little or nothing could have been done of ourselves." But, for all that, little good came to Neil of his desertion or of the valour that he showed against his own people ; and contentions soon set in between him and Docwra. In 1 60 1, John O'Doherty died, and, as I have told before, Red Hugh — who held his son Cahir as a hostage — preferred that Phelim, brother of John, should succeed. But Cahir O'Doherty was a fosterer of the Macdevitts, a strong clan on the eastern shore of Lough Swilly, and they bitterly resented this slight to him. Hatred of the English was a light thing compared with this strange tie, far stronger among Celts than blood kinship, and they went to Docwra and begged him take up the cause of Cahir ; which he, naturally desirous to split a hostile clan, did : and so it came to pass that Cahir had Inishowen, and the O'Dohertys came over to the English.

    XIII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 125

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Culmore now, a place on Lough Foyle where the English commander Docwra built a fort and dug himself in behind entrenchments. He had 4,000 men, but sickness spread among them, and Red Hugh O'Donnell saw his chance. Red Hugh left the O'Doherty of Inishowen to watch Culmore, while his cousin Neil Garv was sent to blockade Derry. Red Hugh himself marched off through Connaught to make war on Thomond, the O'Briens' country in Clare. But Neil Garv was already in secret correspondence with Docwra, who promised him the lordship of Tyrconnell — his own, not Red Hugh's. Neil went over to the English with about 100 men and, more valuable still, detailed knowledge of O'Donnell's forces. Within a week, under Neil's guidance, Docwra surprised the castle at Lifford, though a loyal soldier set fire to it before it fell. Two days of fighting followed against Red Hugh, and Neil, by Docwra's own account, did excellent service. Docwra said that without Neil's intelligence and guidance little or nothing could have been done. But Neil got little good from his desertion or from the valour he showed against his own people, and contentions soon arose between him and Docwra.

39. Red Hugh sails from Castlehaven for Spain

    Castlehaven · townland · Cork · 1602

    On January 6th, 1602, Red Hugh O'Donnell set sail from Castlehaven, seeing Ireland for the last time. He was going to request further help from King Philip of Spain, entrusting his people to his brother Rory.

    Read the passage

    supplies. And now came the critical mistake. O'Neill was for playing a waiting game. Fynes Morison, who was present, says that if this had been done, " all our horse must have been sent away or starved." But the Spaniards also were hard set and sent messages to the Irish chieftains accusing them of cowardice, which infuriated Red Hugh ; and in council he overbore O'Neill's better judgment. A night attack in three divisions was planned : but the guides missed the way, the English had warning, and at daybreak the Irish, in disorder, found the English ready for them. Mountjoy vigorously attacked ONeill's body and put overwhelming numbers to a complete rout. The Irish, who had for years been gaining confidence, now went to pieces, as Highland armies have always done after defeat. Red Hugh," say the Four Masters, "was seized with great fury, rage, and anxiety of mind, so that he did not sleep or rest soundly for the space of three days and three nights afterwards." At the end of that time it was decided that he should go in person to Spain to request further help from Philip; and he entrusted the charge of his people to Rory, his brother. Great was the wailing in the camp of Kinel Conaill, says the history, when this resolution was heard. On January 6th, 1602, Red Hugh set sail from Castlehaven, and saw Ireland for the last time, being then in his twenty-ninth year. His party landed at Corunna and saw with joy, for a good omen, the tower of Breogan — Braganza — whence the Milesians, in far-off ages, had come to subdue the Folk of the Danaans. O'Donnell was received with the highest marks of respect by the grandees of Spain and had audience of the King. Philip gave him promises and sent him back to Corunna to await an armament. Months passed, and he was again summoned to Court. But he got no further on his journey than Simancas. Carew, who was busy with his " pacifying of Ireland," — such a pacification as the Latin spoke of when he said, " they make a wilderness and they call it peace " — had his spies in Corunna, and he knew that his peace would not be lasting if Red Hugh, whether alone or supported, got back to Ulster. So

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 127

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Red Hugh O'Donnell set sail on January 6th, 1602, and saw Ireland for the last time. He was in his twenty-ninth year. The story begins before that departure, after a defeat that broke the Irish. O'Neill had wanted to play a waiting game, but the Spaniards sent messages accusing the Irish chieftains of cowardice, and Red Hugh was infuriated. In council he overbore O'Neill's better judgment. A night attack in three divisions was planned, but the guides missed the way and the English had warning. At daybreak the Irish, in disorder, found the English ready. Mountjoy attacked O'Neill's body and put overwhelming numbers to complete rout. The Irish, who had for years been gaining confidence, now went to pieces. The Four Masters say Red Hugh was seized with great fury, rage, and anxiety of mind, so that he did not sleep or rest soundly for three days and three nights afterwards. Then it was decided he should go in person to Spain to request further help from Philip, and he entrusted the charge of his people to Rory, his brother. Great was the wailing in the camp of Kinel Conaill when this resolution was heard. His party landed at Corunna and saw with joy, for a good omen, the tower of Breogan, whence the Milesians had come in far-off ages to subdue the Folk of the Danaans. He was received with the highest marks of respect by the grandees of Spain and had audience of the King. Philip gave him promises and sent him back to Corunna to await an armament. Months passed, and he was again summoned to Court, but he got no further than Simancas. Carew had spies in Corunna and knew his peace would not be lasting if Red Hugh got back to Ulster.

40. Siege of Ballyshannon Castle and retreat at Assaroe

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal

    The Governor of Connaught invaded O'Donnell's territory, fought his way across the Erne, and laid strong siege to Ballyshannon Castle before being driven to a forced retreat over the ford above Assaroe, an event recorded by the Four Masters.

    Read the passage

    year, an attempt was made to reduce the Earls separately. The Lord Justice himself moved on O'Neill, while the Governor of Connaught invaded OT)onnell's country, fought his way across the Erne and then, after laying strong siege to Ballyshannon Castle, was driven to the forced retreat over the ford above Assaroe, of which a description by the Four Masters has been quoted.

    In 1 5 98, after negotiations for peace had failed— forTyrone was by no means so resolute in his policy as Red Hugh, and still temporised— the O'Neill army laid siege to an English fort on the Black water, near Armagh. A strong army, 4,000 foot and 600 horse, was sent under Sir Henry Bagenal to relieve it. O'Neill summoned O'Donnell, and the forces met at Ballinabuie, or the Yellow Ford, on the Blackwater. The result was the greatest defeat inflicted upon the English at anytime in Ireland — by a contemporary English account " thirteen valiant captains and 1,500 common soldiers — many of them veterans — were slain on the field." Bagenal himself perished, and the fort on the Blackwater was surrendered. Tyrone with energy might have swept every Englishman from the country: but he had not Red Hugh's fiery temper, and though Munster and Connaught only wanted a signal to burst in open rebellion, for three months he stirred no further. In autumn, however, the clans rose, and the whole country along the left bank of the Shannon was plundered by the Irish party ; but O'Donnell confined himself to raiding the Clanricarde territory in Connaught, and O'Neill appears to have lain totally inactive awaiting reinforcements from Spain. Elizabeth meanwhile sent in great forces under Essex, who landed in April, 1559 — nine months after Bagenal's defeat. In that time Hugh O'Neill might have made himself King of Ireland ; but he lacked nerve, and did not see that the chance of Spanish help was slight in comparison with the certainty that the English would reinforce their armies. Twenty thousand foot and two thousand horse came with Essex ; yet, even so, he felt it needful to proclaim that any of the Irish, who had been wrongfully deprived

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 123

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Ballyshannon, you're passing the ground where the Governor of Connaught once laid siege to Ballyshannon Castle. He had invaded O'Donnell's country, fighting his way across the Erne, and brought his forces against the castle itself. The siege was strong, but it did not hold. He was driven to a forced retreat, crossing the ford above Assaroe, a moment the Four Masters recorded and described. The book notes only that this happened in the same period when attempts were made to reduce the Earls separately, with the Lord Justice moving on O'Neill while the Governor of Connaught pressed into O'Donnell's territory. No year is given for the siege itself in the passage. What stands is the outcome: a powerful assault pushed back across the river, the English force retreating over the ford above Assaroe.

41. Siege of Donegal monastery

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1601

    Neil Garv crossed Tyrconnell through Barnes Gap and encamped at Donegal. Red Hugh besieged him in the monastery until a powder store blew up and the place was carried by assault; Neil Garv escaped and brought up a relief force.

    Read the passage

    Yet hitherto nothing had been accomplished of any great moment. But in the summer of 1601, while Red Hugh was on a march into Connaught against an Anglo-Irish force, Neil Garv crossed Tyrconnell, marched through Barnes Gap and encamped at Donegal. Red Hugh hastened back to reclaim his own, and beleaguered his cousin in the monastery. The siege lasted till a store of powder in the monastery blew up, and the place was carried by assault ; Neil Garv escaped, and brought up a relief force under cover of the fire of a ship, and he and his men resisted inside the walls of the monastery till, in October, word came toRed Hugh that a Spanish fleet had landed at Kinsale under Don Juan de Aquila. Hugh at once set out, marched through Roscommon and Galway, crossed the Shannon, and waited for O'Neill near Roscrea. Carew was sent to block his way towards Kinsale; but a heavy frost set in, and Red Hugh made good use of it, for he crossed the boggy mountain of Slieve Phelim in the night and covered thirty-two Irish miles on the march, "the greatest," wrote Carew, "with carriage that hath been heard of " : and finally effected his junction with O'Neill on the Bandon river. Mount] oy was already besieging the Spaniards in Kinsale : O'Neill and Red Hugh came down to blockade Mountjoy, and cut off his

    0 2

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 126

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Donegal town, you are near the site of a monastery where a fierce siege played out in 1601. That summer, while Red Hugh O'Donnell was away marching into Connaught against an Anglo-Irish force, his cousin Neil Garv crossed Tyrconnell through Barnes Gap and encamped here at Donegal. Red Hugh hurried back and besieged Neil Garv in the monastery. The siege lasted until a store of powder inside the monastery blew up, and the place was carried by assault. Neil Garv escaped, and brought back a relief force under cover of fire from a ship. He and his men held out inside the monastery walls until October, when word reached Red Hugh that a Spanish fleet had landed at Kinsale under Don Juan de Aquila. Red Hugh left at once for Kinsale, and the fight here was over.

42. Ballyshannon taken by Neil Garv

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal · 1602

    After the defeat at Kinsale, Neil Garv distinguished himself and captured Ballyshannon as well as Donegal. He shortly after also captured Enniskillen, while Rory O'Donnell held out in Sligo.

    Read the passage

    The fate of Celtic Ireland was decided at the battle of Kinsale. Its fortunes fell with the fall of Red Hugh, who was the spirit of the whole resistance, as they had risen with his rise. His people neglected his advice, which was to keep their forces together, broke up into detachments, each of which was severely attacked on the homeward way. Ballyshannon, as well as Donegal, was taken by Xeil Garv, who had as usual distinguished himself at Kinsale. Shortly after he captured Enniskillen. Vet Rory held out in Sligo till word came of Red Hugh's death, and a message from Mountjoy offering peace for submission. This did not please Xeil Garv, who accounted himself now lord, both dc jure and de fad \\ of Tyrconnell, and as soon as Red Hugh's death was announced, assembled the clan at Kilmacrenan and caused himself to be proclaimed the O'Donnell. Meanwhile Rory was with Mountjoy, and Xeil, in despite of orders, seized Rory's cattle. Docwra, who seemed inclined to fulfil his pledge, reasoned with Xeil and endeavoured to bring him to a more submissive mood, and it would seem had succeeded, when word came from Mountjoy that he would

    198

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 128

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ballyshannon in Donegal, you are in a town whose fate turned on the battle of Kinsale. Red Hugh O'Donnell had been the spirit of the whole resistance in Celtic Ireland, but his people neglected his advice to keep their forces together and broke up into detachments, each severely attacked on the homeward way. In the aftermath, Neil Garv, who had distinguished himself at Kinsale, took Ballyshannon and Donegal, and shortly after captured Enniskillen. Rory O'Donnell held out in Sligo until word came of Red Hugh's death and a message from Mountjoy offering peace for submission. Neil Garv did not welcome this. He counted himself lord of Tyrconnell by right and in fact, assembled the clan at Kilmacrenan, and had himself proclaimed the O'Donnell. Rory was with Mountjoy at the time, and Neil seized Rory's cattle despite orders to the contrary. Docwra, who seemed inclined to fulfil his pledge, reasoned with Neil and tried to bring him to a more submissive mood, and appeared to have succeeded when word came from Mountjoy.

43. Buncrana as gateway to Inishowen

    Buncrana · town · Donegal

    Buncrana, situated on Lough Swilly, serves as the starting point for exploring the Inishowen peninsula, with the Lough Swilly Hotel offering accommodation. Travellers leave Buncrana by a bridge over the Owencranagh river to begin the hilly six-mile road toward the Gap of Mamore.

    Read the passage

    But the natural desire of man is to get to the end of things, and the northernmost point of Ireland is Malin Head, so I take it that the -average person will desire to go round Inishowen. You go out from Buncrana by a bridge which crosses the Owencranagh river, and you are on a road that leads to what is called the Gap of Mamore, and a very hilly road it is for about six miles. Lough Swilly is in view on your left the whole way. Follow your road straight along until after climbing two high hills it descends sharply into a valley, and at the bottom is a bridge where is a crossroad. You have got to turn to the right at the bridge, and then having crossed it turn to the left, up a road or path which leads straight up the side of the mountain. This is the celebrated Gap of Mamore. The whole valley is very characteristic of Inishowen, a waste of brown, barren mountains, singularly waterless for Ireland. The attraction of the Gap, however, lies in the view from the top, but to get to the top you have to push your bicycle up

    The Mail Car.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 133

    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through Buncrana now, the town on Lough Swilly that most travellers use as their gateway to the Inishowen peninsula. The natural desire is to get to the end of things, and the northernmost point of Ireland is Malin Head, so this is where the journey round Inishowen properly begins. You leave Buncrana by a bridge over the Owencranagh river, and from there the road climbs toward what is called the Gap of Mamore. It is a very hilly road for about six miles, with Lough Swilly in view on your left the whole way. After climbing two high hills the road descends sharply into a valley, and at the bottom is a bridge with a crossroad. The whole valley is characteristic of Inishowen, a waste of brown, barren mountains, singularly waterless for Ireland. The attraction of the Gap lies in the view from the top.

44. Cahir O'Doherty gains Inishowen through Macdevitts

    near Inishowen · townland · Donegal · 1601

    After John O'Doherty's death in 1601, the Macdevitts of the eastern shore of Lough Swilly backed Cahir O'Doherty's claim to Inishowen against Red Hugh's preference. Docwra supported Cahir to split the hostile clan, and the O'Dohertys came over to the English.

    Read the passage

    Fear of attack confined Docwra to his entrenchments ; he had 4,000 men, but sickness spread among them; and Red Hugh left the O'Doherty of Inishowen to watch Culmore, and Neil Garv, his cousin, to blockade Deny, while he himself marched through Connaught and levied war on Thomond, the home of the O'Briens in Clare. But meanwhile Neil Garv was in correspondence with Docwra, who promised him that lordship of Tyrconnell which he held should have been his — not Red Hugh's : and, finally, he went over with about 100 men and, what was more valuable, minute knowledge of O'DonnelPs forces. Within a week, under his guidance, Docwra surprised the castle at Lifford, though a trusty soldier set fire to it before it could be taken. In two day's fighting against Red Hugh which followed, Neil did excellent service, by Docwra' s own account, and the most Hugh Roe could effect was to keep in check the English forces at Lifford. Docwra explicitly states his obligation to the help of Neil, " without whose intelligence and guidance little or nothing could have been done of ourselves." But, for all that, little good came to Neil of his desertion or of the valour that he showed against his own people ; and contentions soon set in between him and Docwra. In 1 60 1, John O'Doherty died, and, as I have told before, Red Hugh — who held his son Cahir as a hostage — preferred that Phelim, brother of John, should succeed. But Cahir O'Doherty was a fosterer of the Macdevitts, a strong clan on the eastern shore of Lough Swilly, and they bitterly resented this slight to him. Hatred of the English was a light thing compared with this strange tie, far stronger among Celts than blood kinship, and they went to Docwra and begged him take up the cause of Cahir ; which he, naturally desirous to split a hostile clan, did : and so it came to pass that Cahir had Inishowen, and the O'Dohertys came over to the English.

    XIII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 125

45. Crown reserves Ballyshannon fishery and lands

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal · 1603

    Rory O'Donnell was put in possession of all the O'Donnell rights except a thousand acres about Ballyshannon and the fishery, which the Crown reserved. Neil Garv was confined to his estate from near Raphoe eastward to the Tyrone border.

    Read the passage

    whom, more than through any other, the English* had now got a hold on Tyrconnell that could never be shaken off, went to London to plead his services, but James and his Council distrusted so good a soldier. They accepted Rory's submission, and gave him the earldom of Tyrconnell, a title which had been offered in 1541 by Henry to Manus, Rory's grandfather, the biographer of Columbkille. Rory was put in possession of all the O'Donnell rights, except a thousand acres about Ballyshannon, and the fishery, which the Crown reserved. Xeil was confined to his estate running from near Raphoe eastward to the Tyrone border.

    The Earl of Tyrone had submitted on the same terms as Rory, and was graciously received at Court by James, to the vast indignation of men who had laboured for years to get his head, and now rubbed shoulders with the arch rebel. But the conquest of Ulster was complete. Mountjoy and Carew had done their work thoroughly. On September 12th, 1602, the Lord Deputy wrote to the Lords that he had brought Tyrone to such a pass of famine " that between Tulloghogue and Toome there lay a thousand dead, and that since our first drawing this year to Blackwater, there were above three thousand starved in Tyrone."' Any one who likes to reflect for a moment ca.11 picture what that means : or can read in the horrible account of an eye-witness what Fynes Morison saw there — knots of people gathered eagerly round any patch of watercress, and corpses lying in the ditches, their lips green with half chewed grass.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 129

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ballyshannon in Donegal, you are near a place the Crown deliberately kept for itself in 1603. Rory O'Donnell went to London that year to make his submission to James, and was given the earldom of Tyrconnell. He was put in possession of all the O'Donnell rights, except a thousand acres about Ballyshannon, and the fishery, which the Crown reserved. Neil Garv was confined to his estate running from near Raphoe eastward to the Tyrone border. The conquest of Ulster was complete. Mountjoy and Carew had done their work thoroughly. In September 1602, the Lord Deputy wrote that between Tulloghogue and Toome there lay a thousand dead, and that since the first drawing that year to Blackwater, above 3000 had starved in Tyrone. Fynes Morison saw knots of people gathered eagerly round any patch of watercress, and corpses lying in the ditches, their lips green with half chewed grass. So by 1603 the Crown could reserve what it chose, and let Rory hold the rest.

46. Earls' company passes through Ramelton at dawn

    Rathmelton · town · Donegal · 1607

    As the company of fifty or sixty persons travelled through the night from Raphoe toward Rathmullen, dawn was rising as they passed through Rathmelton. This was the final Irish settlement the fleeing Earls passed through before embarking.

    Read the passage

    direct with the urraghts and induce them " to depend wholly and immediately upon the Crown." O'Kane was prompted by Montgomery, Bishop of Deny, a leading politician and helper in the good work of pacification, to revive the case. Tyrone was summoned to Dublin, and the matter was referred thence to the King's decision. Tyrone was led to believe that his arrest was intended — and he was probably right ; so hearing that one of the Maguireshad provided a vessel for him, he made a hasty flight to the North. Meanwhile Rory O'Donnell had not been happier in his relations with Government. There were perpetual quarrels with Neil Garv, though it seems that Chichester did that warrior very scant justice. Rory plotted a coup de main on Dublin Castle, and hoped for Tyrone's support — whether with or without ground no one knows. The whole circumstances that led up to the " Flight of the Earls " are mysterious. At all events, when the Earl of Tyrone reached Lough Swilly, the Earl of Tyrconnell was waiting for him at Rathmullen on a great and lamentable day in the history of that little town. Tyrone, after his hurried journey from Slane, met Donnell O'Donnell at Raphoe ; they travelled all night, and dawn was rising on them as they went through Rathmelton— a company of fifty or sixty persons. Off Rathmullen lay the ship of eighty tons that Maguire had chartered. On her embarked, on September 14th, 1607, the great Earl of Tyrone, his Countess, and his three sons by her ; the son of their eldest son ; and several other O'Neills of the great house, and their attendants. With them went the Earl of Tyrconnell ; his brother Caffar O'Donnell, and his sister Nuala, wife of Neil Garv, who had abandoned her husband when Neil abandoned his chief ; Tyrconnell's son Hugh, afterwards page to the Infanta of Spain ; Caffar's wife, and many others.

    " This was a distinguished crew for one ship," says the Four Masters ; " for indeed it is certain that the sea had not supported and the winds had not wafted from Ireland in modern times a party of one ship who would have been more illustrious

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 130

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through the town of Rathmelton, you are moving along the same road the Earls took on a September morning in 1607. Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone, had ridden north in haste after hearing that his arrest was intended. He met Donnell O'Donnell at Raphoe, and together they travelled through the night. Dawn was rising on them as they went through this town, a company of fifty or sixty persons. This was the last Irish settlement they passed through before reaching Rathmullen on Lough Swilly, where a ship of eighty tons chartered by Maguire lay waiting. On September 14th, 1607, they boarded. The Earl of Tyrone embarked with his Countess, their three sons, and a grandchild. The Earl of Tyrconnell sailed too, with his brother Caffar O'Donnell and his sister Nuala, who had abandoned her husband Neil Garv when Neil abandoned his chief. Tyrconnell's son Hugh sailed as well, who would afterwards serve as page to the Infanta of Spain. The Four Masters called it a distinguished crew for one ship, saying the sea had not supported and the winds had not wafted from Ireland in modern times a party of one ship more illustrious.

47. Gap of Mamore in Inishowen

    near Mamore Gap · pass · Donegal

    The Gap of Mamore is described as a celebrated pass reached by a road climbing steeply up the mountainside above a bridge at a valley crossroads. The valley is characteristic of Inishowen — a waste of brown, barren mountains, singularly waterless for Ireland — and the attraction lies in the view from the top.

    Read the passage

    But the natural desire of man is to get to the end of things, and the northernmost point of Ireland is Malin Head, so I take it that the -average person will desire to go round Inishowen. You go out from Buncrana by a bridge which crosses the Owencranagh river, and you are on a road that leads to what is called the Gap of Mamore, and a very hilly road it is for about six miles. Lough Swilly is in view on your left the whole way. Follow your road straight along until after climbing two high hills it descends sharply into a valley, and at the bottom is a bridge where is a crossroad. You have got to turn to the right at the bridge, and then having crossed it turn to the left, up a road or path which leads straight up the side of the mountain. This is the celebrated Gap of Mamore. The whole valley is very characteristic of Inishowen, a waste of brown, barren mountains, singularly waterless for Ireland. The attraction of the Gap, however, lies in the view from the top, but to get to the top you have to push your bicycle up

    The Mail Car.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 133

48. Malin Head, northernmost point of Ireland

    near Malin Head · promontory · Donegal

    Malin Head is identified as the northernmost point of Ireland, the natural goal for travellers wishing to reach the end of the Inishowen peninsula. The author assumes most visitors will desire to go round Inishowen to reach it.

    Read the passage

    But the natural desire of man is to get to the end of things, and the northernmost point of Ireland is Malin Head, so I take it that the -average person will desire to go round Inishowen. You go out from Buncrana by a bridge which crosses the Owencranagh river, and you are on a road that leads to what is called the Gap of Mamore, and a very hilly road it is for about six miles. Lough Swilly is in view on your left the whole way. Follow your road straight along until after climbing two high hills it descends sharply into a valley, and at the bottom is a bridge where is a crossroad. You have got to turn to the right at the bridge, and then having crossed it turn to the left, up a road or path which leads straight up the side of the mountain. This is the celebrated Gap of Mamore. The whole valley is very characteristic of Inishowen, a waste of brown, barren mountains, singularly waterless for Ireland. The attraction of the Gap, however, lies in the view from the top, but to get to the top you have to push your bicycle up

    The Mail Car.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 133

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Malin Head lies the northernmost point of Ireland, and the author of this old guide reckoned it was the natural desire of anyone to reach the end of things. He assumed most travellers would want to go all the way round Inishowen to get here. The route he describes runs out from Buncrana, crossing a bridge over the Owencranagh river, and then climbs a very hilly road for about 6 miles toward what is called the Gap of Mamore. Lough Swilly is in view the whole way on your left. After two high hills the road drops sharply into a valley, and at the bottom there is a bridge with a crossroad. You turn right at the bridge, then left, up a path that leads straight up the side of the mountain. The whole valley is what he calls characteristic of Inishowen, a waste of brown, barren mountains, singularly waterless for Ireland. The attraction of the Gap lies in the view from the top, though he does admit you have to push your bicycle up to reach it.

49. Neil Garv proclaimed O'Donnell at Kilmacrenan

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal · 1602

    After Red Hugh's death was announced, Neil Garv assembled the clan at Kilmacrenan and caused himself to be proclaimed the O'Donnell, claiming to be lord of Tyrconnell both de jure and de facto.

    Read the passage

    The fate of Celtic Ireland was decided at the battle of Kinsale. Its fortunes fell with the fall of Red Hugh, who was the spirit of the whole resistance, as they had risen with his rise. His people neglected his advice, which was to keep their forces together, broke up into detachments, each of which was severely attacked on the homeward way. Ballyshannon, as well as Donegal, was taken by Xeil Garv, who had as usual distinguished himself at Kinsale. Shortly after he captured Enniskillen. Vet Rory held out in Sligo till word came of Red Hugh's death, and a message from Mountjoy offering peace for submission. This did not please Xeil Garv, who accounted himself now lord, both dc jure and de fad \\ of Tyrconnell, and as soon as Red Hugh's death was announced, assembled the clan at Kilmacrenan and caused himself to be proclaimed the O'Donnell. Meanwhile Rory was with Mountjoy, and Xeil, in despite of orders, seized Rory's cattle. Docwra, who seemed inclined to fulfil his pledge, reasoned with Xeil and endeavoured to bring him to a more submissive mood, and it would seem had succeeded, when word came from Mountjoy that he would

    198

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 128

50. Tyrone meets O'Donnell at Raphoe before flight

    Raphoe · town · Donegal · 1607

    After a hurried journey from Slane, the Earl of Tyrone met Donnell O'Donnell at Raphoe before they travelled all night together toward Lough Swilly. This was the gathering point for the company of fifty or sixty persons who would depart Ireland.

    Read the passage

    direct with the urraghts and induce them " to depend wholly and immediately upon the Crown." O'Kane was prompted by Montgomery, Bishop of Deny, a leading politician and helper in the good work of pacification, to revive the case. Tyrone was summoned to Dublin, and the matter was referred thence to the King's decision. Tyrone was led to believe that his arrest was intended — and he was probably right ; so hearing that one of the Maguireshad provided a vessel for him, he made a hasty flight to the North. Meanwhile Rory O'Donnell had not been happier in his relations with Government. There were perpetual quarrels with Neil Garv, though it seems that Chichester did that warrior very scant justice. Rory plotted a coup de main on Dublin Castle, and hoped for Tyrone's support — whether with or without ground no one knows. The whole circumstances that led up to the " Flight of the Earls " are mysterious. At all events, when the Earl of Tyrone reached Lough Swilly, the Earl of Tyrconnell was waiting for him at Rathmullen on a great and lamentable day in the history of that little town. Tyrone, after his hurried journey from Slane, met Donnell O'Donnell at Raphoe ; they travelled all night, and dawn was rising on them as they went through Rathmelton— a company of fifty or sixty persons. Off Rathmullen lay the ship of eighty tons that Maguire had chartered. On her embarked, on September 14th, 1607, the great Earl of Tyrone, his Countess, and his three sons by her ; the son of their eldest son ; and several other O'Neills of the great house, and their attendants. With them went the Earl of Tyrconnell ; his brother Caffar O'Donnell, and his sister Nuala, wife of Neil Garv, who had abandoned her husband when Neil abandoned his chief ; Tyrconnell's son Hugh, afterwards page to the Infanta of Spain ; Caffar's wife, and many others.

    " This was a distinguished crew for one ship," says the Four Masters ; " for indeed it is certain that the sea had not supported and the winds had not wafted from Ireland in modern times a party of one ship who would have been more illustrious

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 130