Kerry

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Eleanor Countess of Desmond pleads at Tralee Castle gates

   Tralee · townland · Kerry · 1576

   Eleanor, Countess of Desmond, met Drury at the gates of the Castle in Tralee and with tears besought his pardon for the armed demonstration, assuring him it was merely a hunting party assembled in his honour. Drury accepted her son as a hostage for his father's loyalty.

   Read the passage

   of the Earl of Desmond, and they were all armed. Drury mistook this demonstration for a sign of treacherous hostility, and promptly charged the opposing forces, who fled to the woods which at that time clothed the mountain slopes and the plains almost to the town of Tralee. Eleanor, Countess of Desmond, met Drury at the gates of the Castle, and with tears besought his pardon for the wild demonstration. She assured him that it was all merely a hunting party assembled in his honour, and Drury appears to have been satisfied with her explanation, and accepted her son as a hostage for his father's loyalty. But Gerald of Desmond, in spite of all warnings, still continued his intrigues with the enemies of England. ^'Quem deus vult perdere prius dementat " — never was this so forcibly shown as in the case of Gerald, Earl of Desmond. Spain was the great rival of England at this time, and in order to gain the aid of Philip of Spain and to retain their rights and privileges as palatine rulers, the Desmond chiefs raised the cry that the Catholic Church was in danger.

   Up to 1570 the religious movement had not caused any very great stir in Ireland. In the English Pale, it is true, the great chiefs and the Church had followed much the same lines as in England ; but the mass of the people in Ireland remained, as ever, attached to the Catholic Church. The friars and monks who had been turned out of their monasteries preached throughout the land and kept the faith alive. There was no active oppression, and no very serious attempt to interfere with doctrines on the part of Queen Elizabeth during the early part of her reign.

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Tralee, the Castle gates stood where Eleanor, Countess of Desmond, met Drury in 1576. Drury had just charged a body of armed men he took for enemies. They were followers of the Earl of Desmond, and Drury mistook their demonstration for treacherous hostility. He attacked at once, and they fled to the woods that clothed the mountain slopes and the plains almost to the town. Eleanor met Drury at the gates of the Castle and with tears besought his pardon for the wild demonstration. She assured him it was merely a hunting party assembled in his honour. Drury appears to have been satisfied, and accepted her son as a hostage for his father's loyalty. But Gerald of Desmond, in spite of all warnings, still continued his intrigues with the enemies of England. Spain was the great rival of England at this time. The Desmond chiefs sought the aid of Philip of Spain and to retain their rights as palatine rulers, they raised the cry that the Catholic Church was in danger. Up to 1570 the religious movement had not caused any great stir in Ireland. In the English Pale the chiefs and the Church had followed much the same lines as in England. But the mass of the people remained attached to the Catholic Church. The friars and monks who had been turned out of their monasteries preached throughout the land and kept the faith alive. There was no active oppression and no serious attempt to interfere with doctrines on the part of Queen Elizabeth during the early part of her reign.

2. Church Island ruined church and beehive cell of St Finan

   Church Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

   Church Island, a small island south of Beginish in Valencia Harbour, contains an old ruined church and beehive cell traditionally founded by St Finan, probably contemporary with the Skelligs Rock monastic remains. A curious old grave with basaltic cornerstones is also found there.

   Read the passage

   (4) Beginish Island and Church Island in Valencia Harbour. A quarter of an hour by boat brings the traveller to the island called Beginish, situated right in the waterway of Valencia Harbour. Here may be seen some curious basaltic formation of rock similar to that found at the Giant's Causeway, in Antrim. With the exception of the ridge of basalt to be seen in the gorge to the S. of Lough Guitane, near Killarney, this is the only instance of basaltic formation in Kerry. A charming strand and good bathing places are found on Beginish, and if the sea is calm a visit may be made to the caves in the cliffs, which end in Doulus Head, on the main shore, N. of Valencia Harbour. Church Island is a very small island lying S. of Beginish, and is chiefly interesting as possessing an old ruined church and beehive cell, said to have been founded by St Finan, and probably of the same date as the church and cells in the Skelligs Rocks. A curious old grave, with basaltic cornerstones let into the soil, is worth observing.

   Valencia to the Skelligs Rocks* Visitors to

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 76

3. Cromwell's General Ludlow besieges Ross Castle, 1652

   Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1652

   After the Battle of Knocknicklaskey, Lord Muskerry retreated to Ross Castle, the redoubtable place in Munster, surrounded by lake on three sides and defended by a deep ditch on the fourth. General Ludlow followed with 4000 foot and 200 horse, isolating the garrison by fortifying the neck of land opposite the castle's north end.

   Read the passage

   The O'Donoghues were a minor sept or clan under the great chief MacCarthy More, and when the Desmond wars, in the days of Queen Elizabeth, had brought disaster to the Geraldine and Mac- Carthy More chieftains, Sir Valentine Browne obtained Ross Castle as part of the forfeited land of the Earl of Glencar (MacCarthy More). This was in 1588, and since that date the old castle has remained in possession of Sir Valentine's successors. On July 5th, 1652, Lord Broghil defeated the Irish forces under Lord Muskerry at the Battle of Knocknicklaskey in County Cork. It was a disastrous fight, in which Major Mac- Fineen MacCarthy was slain and Colonel MacGillycuddy was taken prisoner, and the only thing for Lord Muskerry to do was to retire to some strong fortress. Ross Castle at that time was the redoubtable place in Munster, on three sides surrounded by the lake, and on the fourth side defended by a deep ditch extending from Castlelough Bay to the Bay of Ross. Lord Muskerry was the guardian of the young Sir Valentine Browne, and possibly this fact weighed with him in choosing Ross Castle as a place for retreat. General Ludlow, Cromwell's trusted leader, followed, however, with 4000 foot and 200 horse, and made arrangements for the reduction of this important stronghold. Ludlow, hearing that the garrison was supplied with provisions from the opposite shore of the lake, detached a force to clear the woods, and fortifying the neck of land opposite the N. end of the castle, he isolated the garrison. But there was a tradition amongst the people of Kerry that Ross Castle would never be taken till " ships should swim on the lake." And so, in the lines of " Lake

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 39

4. Knightstown: headquarters of the Anglo-American Cable Company

   Knightstown · townland · Dublin · 1865

   Knightstown, the chief village on Valencia Island, became the headquarters of the Anglo-American Cable Company at the first laying of the cable in 1865. The village is described as having a well-ordered hotel, substantial houses, and a general air of prosperity.

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   island side of the strait. But in adopting this latter route a conveyance should be sent from Knight's Town to Portmagee Ferry, as no cars are available at that place. The chief town or village on Valencia Island is Knight's Town, which is the headquarters of the Anglo-American Cable Company, established there at the first laying of the cable in the year 1865. Another small village called Chapel Town lies midway between Knight's Town and Portmagee Ferry, but it possesses nothing of interest.

   Valencia Island is particularly interesting as affording a most favourable locality for the observation of various marine objects of natural history. Its climate is mild, and scientific observers say that there are there no clearly marked periods of either spring or autumn. Season gradually glides into season, and frost and snow are seldom known. The Gulf Stream brings with its warm current various forms of sea-drift and exquisite shells from the tropics and the Sargasso Sea, and the study of marine life in the waters around the shores of this attractive island is of the deepest interest. Valuable scientific investigations made by residents, who have devoted much time to the study of the natural history of Kerry, have been from time to time published by the " Department of Agriculture " for Ireland, These researches should be read by those who are interested in the scientific work, which is making great progress in the county at present. The tide enters Valencia Harbour at both the E. and W. extremity, and these branch tides meet in the water-space midway in the harbour. The main flood tide runs northwards along the coast of Kerry, the chief stream being some 7 m. off

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 74

5. Legend of Y Breassail, the enchanted western island

   Dingle · townland · Kerry · 1700–1707

   A legend of an enchanted island far in the west called "Y Breassail," seen by eager watchers at sunset, held sway among the imaginative people of western Ireland. Captain Rich, two hundred years ago, was so sure of its existence that he believed he discovered a harbour with two headlands, but could never reach the shore.

   Read the passage

   Amongst the many legends of the W. of Ireland none is perhaps more pathetic than that which tells of an enchanted island far away in the W. " Y Breassail '' this island is called, and its glories are seen by eager watchers at sunset. Sometimes it has been seen so distinctly that sailors have gone forth to reach it, expecting to land in a few hours ; and two hundred years ago so sure was one Captain Rich of the existence of this wonderful island, that " he supposed " he discovered a harbour with two headlands, one on

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 88

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here in the west of Ireland, there was a legend of an enchanted island far out in the western sea. They called it Y Breassail. Eager watchers at sunset could see its glories. Sometimes it showed so plainly that sailors set out to reach it, expecting to land within a few hours. About two hundred years ago, a Captain Rich was so sure this island existed that, in his words, "he supposed" he discovered a harbour with two headlands. But he never reached the shore.

6. Papal legate Rinuncini arrives in Kenmare River

   near Kenmare River · bay · Kerry · 1645

   In 1645 the Papal legate Archbishop Rinuncini arrived in Kenmare River, narrowly escaping capture by Admiral Blake's forces when an English pursuing ship's cook room caught fire.

   Read the passage

   In 1645 Joh° Baptiste Rinuncini, Archbishop of Fermo and legate of the Pope, arrived in Kenmare River. Admiral Blake was on his track and his frigate barely escaped capture, being chased by an English ship which failed to capture the foreigner owing, it is said, to the " cook room of the man-of-war taking fire." The Parliamentary General Ludlow marched to Kerry after the defeat of Lord Muskerry at Knocknichashky, in County Cork, and finding that the Irish General had established himself at Ross Castle near Killarney, one of the strongest fortresses in possession of the Irish, and was receiving food and supplies from the opposite force of Lough Leane, he made plans to dislodge him. He cut the garrison off from the mainland, and had boats sent round to Castlemaine and conveyed up the Laune River by hand.

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 27

7. Rahinane Castle sacked and burnt in 1641

   Rahinane · townland · Tipperary · 1641

   The desolate ruins of Rahinane Castle were the abode of Bishop Fuller in the turbulent days of 1641. When Lord Kerry fled to England and Tralee was besieged, the O'Kellys, O'Dorans, and O'Lawlers descended from the Causeway area and sacked and burnt both the Cathedral of Ardfert and Rahinane.

   Read the passage

   Fenit to Ardfert, A pleasant drive of 4 m. through a happy, prosperous-looking land leads past the desolate ruins of Rahinane Castle, where a certain Bishop Fuller took up his abode in the exciting days of 1641. When Lord Kerry fled to England, 'and Tralee was sore beset by the confederate forces, the O'Kellys, O'Dorans, and O'Lawlers swooped down from the country around Causeway, where they had been deported in previous years, and sacked and burnt the Cathedral of Ardfert and Rahinane.

   (2) Ardfert Abbey and Cathedral, Five miles from Tralee, by road or rail, which run parallel to each other, lies the village of Ardfert, in the centre of a rich agricultural country of limestone formation. The land has been im-

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

8. Siege of Lixnaw Castle by Wilmot

   Lixnaw · town · Kerry · 1601–1602

   Sir Charles Wilmot besieged the castle of Lixnaw, cutting the garrison off from water, and eventually took possession of the place.

   Read the passage

   were again driven from their homes. The whole county of Kerry was up in arms once more. But it was all futile as ever. The Spaniards were defeated at Kinsale, and Sir Charles Wilmot was sent again to restore order in the Kingdom of Kerry. He besieged the castle of Lixnaw and ^ cut the garrison off from water, and eventually gotj possession of the place. Then he marched to * Castlemaine and relieved the garrison there, besieged by the rebels. Then he sent half his men into the Knight of Kerry's country with orders to plunder and drive in all the cattle as far as Dingle. With the remainder of his men he marched after this force and met the Knight of Kerry with about 300 followers drawn up in a bog at Ballinahow, where the cavalry could not manoeuvre. Sir Charles Wilmot's horsemen dismounted and fought on foot, and after a stubborn fight the knight's men were defeated, and Sir Charles took and burnt the castles of Rahinane and Castlegregory. New orders were given to despoil the country once more — the fair land, well filled with corn, which was esteemed one of the best inhabited counties in Munster. The loyal inhabitants were deported, and the rebels left no means of subsistence ; thus throughout Iveragh and Desmond and Kerry proper the forces of Sir Charles Wilmot marched, as the forces of the "Black Earl'' had marched twenty years before, till at length all was reduced to order and the Knight of Kerry and Daniel MacCarthy More made their submission. In 1604 Sir Charles Wilmot had made a complete end of the rebellion, and from that date to 1 64 1 there was little or no disturbance in Kerry. After all this record of fighting and turmoil it is

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 26

9. Tralee delivered to the Dennys, 1586-87

   Tralee · townland · Kerry · 1586–1587

   After the Desmond wars, Tralee ceased to be the stronghold of the Geraldines and in 1586-87 was delivered to Mr Denny, afterwards Sir Edward Denny, a soldier of fortune who had come to Ireland to take part in the Desmond wars.

   Read the passage

   Then after the Desmond wars were over, Tralee ceased to be the stronghold of the Geraldines, and in 1586-87 was delivered to Mr Denny and became the Tralee of the Dennys for many a long year. This Mr Denny was afterwards Sir Edward Denny, knight banneret, a second son of Sir Anthony Denny, one of the executors of the will of Henry VIII. He seems to have come to Ireland as a young soldier of fortune with others, like Sir Walter Raleigh and Edmund Spenser, to take a part in the Desmond wars. But his first experience of Ireland does not seem to have impressed him favourably, if we may judge by the following letter from him to Sir Francis Walsingham, which bears date 8th September 1580: —

   " I find already my Ireland journey will rather destroy me quite than amend me in anything, and for this kind of service is so groundless, so devoid of reputation in respect of the service never seen ; but it still happens in bogs, glens, and woods as in my opinion it might better fit mastiffs than brave gentlemen that desire to win honour. So that I conceive neither good-will at home, commodity here, nor reputation be gotten. " Were it not for the love I bear Lord Grey, all things considered, as myself hath well scanned and determinately set down, I see no good cause as I would rather live in misery and bondage elsewhere than command and live free here/'

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Tralee, the old Geraldine stronghold passed to new hands in 1586 and 1587. After the Desmond wars were over, Tralee ceased to belong to the Geraldines and was delivered to Mr Denny, who became Sir Edward Denny, knight banneret. He was a second son of Sir Anthony Denny, one of the executors of the will of Henry VIII. He had come to Ireland as a young soldier of fortune, along with men like Sir Walter Raleigh and Edmund Spenser, to take part in the Desmond wars. But his first experience of the country did not impress him. In a letter to Sir Francis Walsingham, dated the 8th of September 1580, he wrote that he found his Ireland journey would rather destroy him than amend him in anything. He called the kind of service groundless and devoid of reputation, saying it happened in bogs, glens, and woods and might better fit mastiffs than brave gentlemen that desire to win honour. He said he conceived neither good-will at home, commodity here, nor reputation be gotten. Were it not for the love he bore Lord Grey, he would rather live in misery and bondage elsewhere than command and live free here.

10. Constables of Castlemaine castle

    Castlemaine · town · Kerry · 1580–1829

    A long line of Constables held Castlemaine castle for the English Crown, starting with Andrew Martyn, killed by a culverin shot in 1580. The office continued as a sinecure down to 1829, though only the massive piles of the old bridge remain visible.

    Read the passage

    The first of a long line of Constables was Andrew Martyn, who, as we read, was killed by a "culverin shotte" at the taking of Fort del Ore in 1580. To him succeeded Thomas Spring, and, later on. Sir Warham St Leger, Sir Charles Wilmot, and Sir Thomas Roper, afterwards Lord Baltinglass. The castle was besieged and taken by the Irish in 1641, and held by Daniel MacCarthy throughout that war. It was probably finally destroyed when Cromwell's soldiers came to the W. But the office of Constable of Castlemaine went on down to the year 1829, though it had for more than a century been a sinecure. The only remains of this fortress still to be seen are the massive piles of the old bridge which spans the tidal waters of the river Maine.

    From Castlemaine a good road leads direct to Tralee (10 m.), and a wild old mountain pass winds up the steep slope of the Slieve Mish, to descend through the beautiful Glounskeehy to the same place (7 m.). A road also runs W. by Inch to Auniscaul (16 m.), which, though some-

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    As the road passes through Castlemaine in Kerry, you are near the site of a castle whose constables served the English Crown for nearly two and a half centuries. The first was Andrew Martyn, killed by a

11. Kilshannig plague burial tradition from Spanish ship

    Kilshannig · townland · Kerry

    Kilshannig, meaning 'lonesome church,' is the site of a tradition that a Spanish ship once arrived with crew dead of an unknown disease. The survivors buried the bodies in the church at night, and locals have feared opening new graves there ever since, lest they wake the plague.

    Read the passage

    Leary's Island or Illauntannig is the only one inhabited, and on it are to be found the remains of an old church with beehive huts and an old rude cross about which wonderful legends have gathered. Once upon a time some daring soul transported this cross to the mainland, but by some mysterious means it was borne back to the island again and has remained there ever since. The church, too, has its legend. Kilsagnene or Kilshannig means the "lonesome church,'' and tradition has it that at some remote period of our history a Spanish ship arrived here with a number of the crew dead of some frightful unknown disease. The survivors interred the bodies in the night time in this church, and ever since then the people of Kilshannig have been afraid to open any new grave in this place lest they should " wake the plague."

    " R." in the Kerry Magazine wrote years ago about this, but there is only space here for one verse of the poem —

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

12. Skellig Michael monastic remains

    near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry

    Skellig Michael preserves a beehive cell in perfect repair, a small ruined chapel with an east window facing the mainland, and a graveyard where wildflowers grow over the graves of forgotten saints marked by rude crosses.

    Read the passage

    this little enclosure, and sees the cell in perfect repair, as though left only yesterday; the small ruined chapel, with its E. window looking towards the mainland of Ireland ; and the graveyard where the sea -pinks and rose root cover the graves, and creep round the rude crosses which mark the resting-places of forgotten saints.

    In spring and summer the whole place is alive with birds, which are tame through the protection of years. The pathway and rude stone stairs, which lead to the summit of the Skellig Michael, seem to have formed the " Way of the Cross " for pilgrims in old days, and weather-beaten, worn, upright stones appear to this day to represent the form of crosses standing out against sky and sea, keeping still the memories connected with this once holy isle.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 78

13. Aghadoe church first recorded in 992 in the Annals of Innisfallen

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry · 992

    The first mention of a church at Aghadoe, meaning 'The Field of Two Yews', appears in the annals of Innisfallen in the year 992, recording the death of Maelsuthain hua Cerbaill, Chief Sage of Ireland. The round-arched doorway with dog-tooth decoration reflects a Romanesque wave that spread directly from Normandy to Ireland before the Anglo-Norman invasion.

    Read the passage

    The first mention of a church at Aghadoe, " The Field of Two Yews," is in the annals of Innisfallen, where in the year 992 it is related that " Maelsuthain hua Cerbaill, Chief Sage of Ireland, rested in Christ AB Achud-deo." The round arched doorway, with the " dog tooth " decoration, here, as in InnisfalJen and many other parts of Kerry, does not necessarily point to the Anglo-Norman period. A Romanesque wave spread direct from Normandy to Ireland, and affected Irish architecture long before the coming of Henry II. and his followers, and it seems to have been contemporaneous with what is called the Saxon architecture found in various parts of England. The small tower lower down the hillside from the church of Aghadoe is said to be the ruin of one of the first towers built by the Anglo-Norman settlers in Ireland. Only a small part of the round tower attached to the church of Aghadoe remains. But this small part shows a fine example of the massive stone work of the period. After inspecting these interesting ruins the return to Killarney may be made either by road round by Aghadoe House, and so back through the Western Park to Killarney (4 m.), or by the old bye-road which leads down the hillside and meets the main road a mile to the W. of the town (2 m.).

    Killarney to Muckross, A short 3 m. E. from Killarney by the shady road, which leads over the Flesk River, and on by Cahirnane and the Lake Hotel, the gates of Muckross Park are seen on the right. Visitors cannot fail to be struck

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 42

14. Dunbeg Fort: prehistoric cyclopean ramparts

    Doonbeg · townland · Galway

    Dunbeg Fort near Fahan is a fine specimen of cyclopean work marking the period just before Christianity's introduction to Ireland. It consists of three ramparts and a main stone wall 200 feet long and 22 feet thick across a headland, with a specially noteworthy doorway.

    Read the passage

    cliffs overlooking the sea, a short distance from the main road. This old tower, like many others around the coast, was built for the accommodation of soldiers when Ireland was threatened by a French invasion in the days of Napoleon. Near Fahan, and on the L. of the road, is Dunbeg Fort. This fine specimen of cyclopean work, marking the culminating period of Irish heroic history just prior to the introduction of Christianity, consists of three ramparts and a main stone wall, reaching across the headland on which the fort stands. This wall is 200 ft. long and 22 ft. thick. The inner wall is 9 ft. in height and the outer 5 ft. The doorway in this massive construction is specially worthy of notice. A mile beyond Dunbeg, on the R. of the road, is a collection of beehive huts, some of them being in an excellent state of repair. This interesting group of buildings goes usually by the name of *' The Town." Here also we are face to face with the prehistoric age merging into the ecclesiastical period. Thence the good, fairly surfaced road winds along the edge of the cliffs, at the base of Mount Eagle, affording fine views of the Blasket Islands, Innishnabro, Innishvickillane, and the Great Blasket and Beginish. At Dunquin, the little fishing village opposite the Great Blasket, a boat may be obtained and a visit made to the nearer islands. And here it may not be out of place to give some short notices of these interesting outposts of Kerry.

    (3) The Blasket Islands. The name Blasket is said to be derived from the Irish word " Blaosc " or " Blaosg," meaning a scale or shell, and like most Celtic names its meaning

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

15. Iron-workers colony at Kenmare, 1688-89

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1645–1689

    A colony of iron-workers, mechanics, and farmers established by Sir William Petty between 1645 and 1688 entrenched themselves near Kenmare in 1688-89 against raiding robbers. After various struggles, the remnant was shipped off to Bristol under James II before William III's authority was established.

    Read the passage

    in this branch of science, as the ridges of the mountains and the smooth ice - planed rocks cannot fail to be noticed even by the uninitiated. The convent of " Poor Clares,'' which is now so well known, is one of the chief places of interest in the town. In it can be seen specimens of the lace and needlework which have given it a wideextended reputation. The church, situated close to the convent, is also worth a visit. Near the town can be seen the place where, in 1688-89, the colony of iron - workers, mechanics, and farmers, who had been established in Kenmare by Sir William Petty during the quiet times between 1645 and 1688, entrenched themselves and held out against certain bands of robbers who raided their cattle and endangered their lives. The story is a strange one, and needs to be carefully read to be understood. After various struggles and sufferings the remnant of the colony, founded with high hope of industrial success, was obliged to give in, and was shipped off to Bristol. This happened when James II. was king, and before the authority of King William III. had been estabUshed in the " Kingdom of Kerry." Not far from Kenmare is the field of Callan, where in 1261 the great battle was fought between the Geraldines and MacCarthys, which ended so disastrously to the Geraldines.

    (2) Dunkerron Castle, Two m. to the W. of Kenmare on the direct road to Sneem the gates of Dunkerron are passed on the left-hand side, and on entering the grounds the gaunt pile of masonry representing the tower and one wall of the old castle of O'SuIlivan More is seen standing on a slight eminence. As these grounds are private, permission must be obtained before entering. A

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here at Kenmare, there are mountain ridges and smooth rocks planed by ice that even the uninitiated would notice. But the story that belongs to this place is about the colony of iron-workers, mechanics, and farmers established by Sir William Petty. He founded it during the quiet times between 1645 and 1688, with what the source calls "high hope of industrial success." In 1688 and 1689, these colonists entrenched themselves and held out against bands of robbers who raided their cattle and endangered their lives. The story is a strange one, and needs to be carefully read to be understood. After various struggles and sufferings, the remnant of the colony was obliged to give in. They were shipped off to Bristol. This happened when James II was king, and before the authority of King William III had been established in what the source calls the "Kingdom of Kerry." The colony could not survive the raids and the political turmoil of those years. Not far from here is the field of Callan, where in 1261 the great battle was fought between the Geraldines and MacCarthys, which ended disastrously for the Geraldines. In the town itself, the convent of Poor Clares is one of the chief places of interest, where you can see specimens of the lace and needlework that have given it a wide reputation. The church situated close to the convent is also worth a visit.

16. Puck Fair at Killorglin

    Killorglin · town · Kerry

    Killorglin's annual fair on 11th August, known far and near as Puck Fair, is said to derive its name from a solitary goat being the only animal offered for sale in times past. Hundreds attend and a decorated he-goat is placed on a high platform in the town centre.

    Read the passage

    marble in the interior being of excellent quality. A thriving salmon fishery is carried on from January — when the season opens — till August. But perhaps one of the most notable things connected with Killorglin is the annual fair on nth August, called and known far and near as " Puck Fair." The origin of the name is said to be due to the fact that long ago a solitary " puck " or goat was the only animal offered for sale. Great things have sometimes small beginnings, and " Puck " Fair is no exception to this. At the present day hundreds of people attend this fair, and a large " puck " or he-goat, profusely decorated, is placed on a high platform in the centre of the town. Beyond Killorglin a wild bit of land stretches away to the L. of the railway, beyond which rise the Reeks and Carrantuohill in all their beauty of outline. Here and there the bog has been reclaimed at infinite labour to form small holdings in a '* Congested District."

    On the right of the railway, across another dreary waste of bog and stony enclosures, the hills of the Dingle peninsula can be seen over a strip of Castlemaine Harbour, and then the woods at the northern end of Caragh Lake meet the view. To the traveller who has never visited this pleasing locality before, it is as though he had entered an oasis in a desert, so different in character does the country appear when once the waters of Caragh Lake meet the eye.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Killorglin in Kerry, this is the town that holds one of the most notable fairs in the country. Every year on the 11th of August, hundreds of people attend what is known far and near as Puck Fair. The name is said to come from long ago, when a solitary puck, or goat, was the only animal offered for sale. Great things have sometimes small beginnings, and Puck Fair is no exception. At the present day, a large puck, a he-goat, profusely decorated, is placed on a high platform in the centre of the town, and the fair draws its crowds from all around. The town also carries on a thriving salmon fishery from January, when the season opens, till August. Beyond the town, a wild stretch of land runs away toward the railway, and beyond it rise the Reeks and Carrantuohill in all their beauty of outline. Here and there the bog has been reclaimed at infinite labour to form small holdings in a Congested District. Across another dreary waste of bog and stony enclosures, the hills of the Dingle peninsula can be seen over a strip of Castlemaine Harbour, and then the woods at the northern end of Caragh Lake meet the view.

17. Rossdohan Island's rare plant gardens

    Rossdohan · townland · Kerry

    Rossdohan Island, belonging to Mr Heard, had within a comparatively few years been transformed from a barren island into a paradise of rare shrubs and plants from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. Austrian pines sheltered wattles, blue gums, Australian bottlebrush, dracaenas, and other rarities, with Datura flowering in the open.

    Read the passage

    I. Sneem to Rossdohan. One of the most interesting places in the neighbourhood of Sneem is Rossdohan Island, belonging to Mr Heard. Here, within a comparatively few years, a barren island has become a paradise of rare shrubs and plants from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. The Austrian pines which have been planted, and flourish, give shelter to a number of wattles, blue gums, Australian bottlebrush, dracsenas, and a host of rare things. Here also the Datura flowers in the open. Should permission be granted to view these beautiful grounds, the lover of plants and flowers will find a world of interest.

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Rossdohan, there is an island that belonged to Mr Heard. In a comparatively few years, a barren island became a paradise of rare shrubs and plants from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. Austrian pines were planted and flourished, giving shelter to wattles, blue gums, Australian bottlebrush, dracaenas, and a host of rare things. The Datura flowers in the open there. If you should get permission to view these grounds, the book says the lover of plants and flowers will find a world of interest.

18. Sir Valentine Browne obtains Ross Castle, 1588

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1588

    After the Desmond wars brought disaster to the Geraldine and MacCarthy More chieftains in the days of Queen Elizabeth, Sir Valentine Browne obtained Ross Castle as part of the forfeited land of the Earl of Glencar (MacCarthy More) in 1588. The castle has remained in the possession of Browne's successors ever since.

    Read the passage

    The O'Donoghues were a minor sept or clan under the great chief MacCarthy More, and when the Desmond wars, in the days of Queen Elizabeth, had brought disaster to the Geraldine and Mac- Carthy More chieftains, Sir Valentine Browne obtained Ross Castle as part of the forfeited land of the Earl of Glencar (MacCarthy More). This was in 1588, and since that date the old castle has remained in possession of Sir Valentine's successors. On July 5th, 1652, Lord Broghil defeated the Irish forces under Lord Muskerry at the Battle of Knocknicklaskey in County Cork. It was a disastrous fight, in which Major Mac- Fineen MacCarthy was slain and Colonel MacGillycuddy was taken prisoner, and the only thing for Lord Muskerry to do was to retire to some strong fortress. Ross Castle at that time was the redoubtable place in Munster, on three sides surrounded by the lake, and on the fourth side defended by a deep ditch extending from Castlelough Bay to the Bay of Ross. Lord Muskerry was the guardian of the young Sir Valentine Browne, and possibly this fact weighed with him in choosing Ross Castle as a place for retreat. General Ludlow, Cromwell's trusted leader, followed, however, with 4000 foot and 200 horse, and made arrangements for the reduction of this important stronghold. Ludlow, hearing that the garrison was supplied with provisions from the opposite shore of the lake, detached a force to clear the woods, and fortifying the neck of land opposite the N. end of the castle, he isolated the garrison. But there was a tradition amongst the people of Kerry that Ross Castle would never be taken till " ships should swim on the lake." And so, in the lines of " Lake

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19. St Brandon's ancient oratory on Mount Brandon summit

    Brandon Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    On the highest summit of Mount Brandon are the remains of an ancient oratory where St Brandon is said to have celebrated Mass. An annual pilgrimage to the summit takes place from Cloghane, though it has been many years since the Bishop of Kerry said Mass at the site.

    Read the passage

    side of Brandon has been so torn and washed by the storms of centuries that the rocks are bare of vegetation, and shine and shimmer in the sunlight. This process of erosion and breaking away of the crest of the mountain is still going on, as may be seen in the avalanche-like appearance of the gorge above Lough Cruttia. To view this mountain on a fine clear day from the Connor Hill road is an experience not to be forgotten ; to climb to the summit and learn its secret is an education to be left to those who love to learn the story of the mountains first hand from the mountains themselves. On the highest summit of Mount Brandon are to be seen the remains of an ancient oratory where St Brandon said Mass long ages ago. A pilgrimage to the top of the mountain takes place each year from Cloghane, but it is now many years since the good Bishop of Kerry said Mass on the site of this ancient oratory.

    Mangerton Mountain comes next in the list of important mountains in Kerry. It is one of the most prominent features of the scenery about Killarney, and one of the first mountains the stranger sees when approaching the town by the railway. Its height is only 2756 ft. above the sea-level, being some 40 ft. lower than Bautregaum, and only 2 ft. higher than the graceful and little known Beenoskee (Hill of the Shadows), which is one of the principal peaks in the Dingle range of hills.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 8

20. The Palace of MacCarthy More near Beaufort

    Beaufort · town · Kerry

    A farm-house on the rise of the hill near Beaufort Bridge marks the site of 'The Palace,' the chief residence of the powerful MacCarthy More family. Little remains of the once-famous place, and stones were reportedly taken to build piggeries at Beaufort House.

    Read the passage

    and 2 1 from Beaufort. Half-a-mile beyond this a little ruined chapel is seen on the right, nameless but picturesque. Another half-a-mile farther and the road begins to descend an incline from the gates of Grenagh (formerly belonging to the O'Connell family) to Beaufort Bridge. A farm-house, with gable ends and an air of comfort and prosperity about it, is seen on the rise of the hill to the right. This farm belongs to Mr M*Kay, and is most interesting to antiquarians, as being the site of " The Palace," or chief residence of the powerful family of Mac- Carthy More. It is sometimes written "The Pallis.'^ Little remains to mark the site of this once famous place, and it is said that many of the stones were taken to build the piggeries at Beaufort House. It must have been a beautifully situated " Palace," with a view unsurpassed.

    As the traveller nears Beaufort Bridge he should specially note the view looking up the Laune River to the Gap of Dunloe. Across the bridge the lodge gate of Beaufort House is passed on the L., and a small collection of houses, picturesque in their way, with a post office and police barrack, mark the village. Half-a-mile farther on the demesne of Dunloe is met on the L. Four hundred yards due S. of the entrance gate, at the edge of a small plantation, is the cave of Dunloe, famous for its Ogham stones. About the year 1838 some workmen discovered this subterranean chamber, rudely built and covered with flagstones. These stones are all inscribed with Ogham characters. For some few remarks on these Ogham monuments see Section IX., under the head of " Antiquities."

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 48

21. Ballymalis Castle, a frontier fortress on the Laune

    Ballymalis · townland · Kerry · 1450–1525

    Ballymalis Castle, eight miles from Killarney, is a beautiful old ruin attributed by local tradition to the Ferris family but also said to have belonged to the Moriartys. Its cut stone windows, ogee arch, and machicolated defensive galleries indicate a late 15th or early 16th century date, and it guarded the shallows of the River Laune.

    Read the passage

    Ballymalis. Eight m. from Killarney, on the direct road 'via Beaufort to Killorglin, and 4 m. from the latter place, stands the old castle of Ballymalis. Local tradition ascribes its building to a family of the name of Ferris, but it is also said to have belonged to the Moriartys. The cut stone windows and the ogee arch, together with the pointed arches of the doorways, seem to indicate the date of the building as being late 15th or early i6th century. A gable at the N. end shows the foundation of a high pitched roof, and one tall chimney gaunt against the sky still stands on the N.E. side. There are two projecting machicolated defensive galleries midway up the W. and E. angle of the walls. The lower part of the N. angle is gone. A pointed arched doorway on the S.E. face leads to a spiral stairway of limestone in good preservation ; and branching off this stairway are two rooms with the stone flooring still preserved, and on the ceiling of one the mortar shows the marks of the basket-work which supported the arch when in process of formation. On the projection at the W. angle can be seen the '' Fleur de Lys " cut in the supporting limestone corbels. Apparently an annexe existed at the S.E. side, and the moss-covered foundations are still to be traced.

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 48

22. Beginish Island basaltic formations and strand in Valencia Harbour

    Beginish · townland · Kerry

    Beginish Island, situated in the waterway of Valencia Harbour, features curious basaltic rock formations similar to the Giant's Causeway, one of only two instances of basaltic formation in Kerry. The island also offers a charming strand and bathing places.

    Read the passage

    (4) Beginish Island and Church Island in Valencia Harbour. A quarter of an hour by boat brings the traveller to the island called Beginish, situated right in the waterway of Valencia Harbour. Here may be seen some curious basaltic formation of rock similar to that found at the Giant's Causeway, in Antrim. With the exception of the ridge of basalt to be seen in the gorge to the S. of Lough Guitane, near Killarney, this is the only instance of basaltic formation in Kerry. A charming strand and good bathing places are found on Beginish, and if the sea is calm a visit may be made to the caves in the cliffs, which end in Doulus Head, on the main shore, N. of Valencia Harbour. Church Island is a very small island lying S. of Beginish, and is chiefly interesting as possessing an old ruined church and beehive cell, said to have been founded by St Finan, and probably of the same date as the church and cells in the Skelligs Rocks. A curious old grave, with basaltic cornerstones let into the soil, is worth observing.

    Valencia to the Skelligs Rocks* Visitors to

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 76

23. Grave of Queen Scota near Tralee

    Tralee · townland · Kerry

    According to legend, Queen Scota, daughter of Pharaoh and wife of Milidh the Milesian, is buried in a wooded glen near Tralee. The Annals of the Four Masters are cited as the source of this tradition.

    Read the passage

    ing. There is the legend of a certain Queen Scota, the daughter of Pharaoh and wife of Milidh the Milesian, according to the *' Annals of the Four Masters/' whose grave is still shown in a wooded glen near Tralee ; there are stories of Finn Mac Coul and a warrior named Colman which the boatmen of Killarney are fond of recounting ; and there is the legend of Curoi of Daire, who carried away Blanaid, the beautiful maid, from the island of Mana, to Caherconree, where, after a time, she treacherously betrayed him into the hands of CuchuUin. There are legends of the great battle of Ventry and the doings of '* Conn of the hundred fights," and other heroes of the same period. But from the 6th century a more defined idea can be formed, and the old ruined shrines and beehive huts are records of the greatest value to emphasise the history of St Brandon, St Finan, and other saints whose lives were spent in claiming Ireland for the Cross.

    When the period of the coming of the Norman warriors is reached the historic records rest on a firmer foundation. The tribal wars between the O'Sullivans, O'Donoghues, O'Connors, and MacCarthys widen out into broader vistas, and a fairly defined path runs through the whole. At that time, i.e. about the year 1172, the present county of Kerry was held by the sept of O'Connors in the N., MacCarthy More, O'SuUivan More, and O'Donoghue in the centre, whilst O' Sullivan Beare, the great chieftain of West Cork, held a strip of South Kerry along the shores of the Kenmare River. There were also minor septs or clans — O'Talveys and M'Gillicuddys, O'Connells and O'Mahonys, the latter being an offshoot of

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the grave of Queen Scota. The legend says she was the daughter of Pharaoh and the wife of Milidh the Milesian. The Annals of the Four Masters are given as the source for this tradition, and her grave is still shown in a wooded glen near Tralee. The same stretch of country carries other old stories. There are tales of Finn Mac Coul and a warrior named Colman, which the boatmen of Killarney are fond of recounting. There is the legend of Curoi of Daire, who carried away Blanaid, the beautiful maid, from the island of Mana to Caherconree, where after a time she treacherously betrayed him into the hands of Cuchullin. There are legends of the great battle of Ventry and the doings of Conn of the hundred fights, and other heroes of that same period. From the 6th century a more defined idea can be formed. Old ruined shrines and beehive huts are records of the greatest value, emphasising the history of St Brandon, St Finan, and other saints whose lives were spent in claiming Ireland for the Cross. When the period of the coming of the Norman warriors is reached, the historic records rest on a firmer foundation. Around the year 1172, Kerry was held by the sept of O'Connors in the north, MacCarthy More, O'Sullivan More, and O'Donoghue in the centre, while O'Sullivan Beare held a strip of South Kerry along the shores of the Kenmare River.

24. Ludlow besieges Ross Castle on Lough Leane

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1645–1650

    Parliamentary General Ludlow marched to Kerry after defeating Lord Muskerry, and found the Irish General established at Ross Castle near Killarney, receiving supplies from Lough Leane. Ludlow cut the garrison off from the mainland and had boats sent round to Castlemaine and conveyed up the Laune River.

    Read the passage

    In 1645 Joh° Baptiste Rinuncini, Archbishop of Fermo and legate of the Pope, arrived in Kenmare River. Admiral Blake was on his track and his frigate barely escaped capture, being chased by an English ship which failed to capture the foreigner owing, it is said, to the " cook room of the man-of-war taking fire." The Parliamentary General Ludlow marched to Kerry after the defeat of Lord Muskerry at Knocknichashky, in County Cork, and finding that the Irish General had established himself at Ross Castle near Killarney, one of the strongest fortresses in possession of the Irish, and was receiving food and supplies from the opposite force of Lough Leane, he made plans to dislodge him. He cut the garrison off from the mainland, and had boats sent round to Castlemaine and conveyed up the Laune River by hand.

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 27

25. Ross Castle: 14th-century O'Donoghue fortress on Lough Leane

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1390–1399

    Ross Castle, probably built at the close of the 14th century, was the strong fortress of O'Donoghue Ross, a minor sept under MacCarthy More. Its dramatic setting on the lake, surrounded by woods and mountains, makes it a conspicuous landmark from nearly every viewpoint.

    Read the passage

    m. distant from the town. The background of mountains and the woods which come close up to its walls make it a conspicuous object from almost every point of view, and it is difficult to say from what point it presents its most attractive appearance. The building probably dates from the close of the 14th century, and it was originally the strong fortress of O'Donoghue Ross, who must not be confounded with O'Donoghue More, the great chief of the sept of O'Donoghue. Many legends cling to the name of this ancient possessor of Ross Castle, and amongst them is that which tells of the foundation of a city beneath the waters of the lake in the land which was called " Tirnan-Oge" or the <* Land of Perpetual Youth." From the Land of Perpetual Youth O'Donoghue is said to revisit the upper world once in seven years, on a morning in May, and mounting his white horse, which for seven years has remained a solitary and immovable rock, he rides over the waters of the great Lough Leane. Luck is believed to attend the person who sees the great chieftain on these rare occasions. Far up on the bare side of the Toomies Mountains lies a little patch of green amidst the brown heather. There the snow lingers longest in springtime, and legend says that <'Parkeen Na Coppal bawn," or the "Field of the White Horse" (as the green spot is called), is the grazing ground of O'Donoghue's steed. The lone rock standing out between the castle and Innisfallen Island is '* O'Donoghue's Prison," where captives were chained to iron weights. A splash of water from the crest of a broken wave is O'Donoghue's blessing. So legend on legend keeps green the memory of the founder of Ross Castle.

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 39

26. Siege of Tralee castles, 1641-1642

    Tralee · townland · Kerry · 1641–1642

    In 1641, two castles of importance stood in and near Tralee: the larger belonging to Sir Edward Denny and the 'Short Castle' belonging to the Rice family. About 170 people sheltered in the Denny castle and 105 in the Short Castle. The garrisons suffered from cut-off water supply, scurvy, and fever during fierce fighting in 1642.

    Read the passage

    In 1 64 1 there were two castles of importance in and near Tralee. The larger, situated in the town, belonged to Sir Edward Denny. The other, called the '' Short Castle," belonged to a family named Rice. When the war broke out the "Short Castle" was taken possession of by the English settlers, and about 105 people crowded to its shelter. In the large castle of

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Tralee, two castles stood when war broke out in 1641. The larger belonged to Sir Edward Denny, the other, called the Short Castle, to the Rice family. English settlers seized the Short Castle, and about 105 people crowded into it. About 170 sheltered in Denny's castle. Through 1642 the garrisons fought on, water cut off, scurvy and fever spreading through both.

27. Tralee burnt by Jacobites on Ginkel's approach, 1691

    Tralee · townland · Kerry · 1691

    During the Williamite War, Jacobite forces held Kerry until August 1691. Tralee was burnt on the approach of General Ginkel, who ordered the captains responsible to be hanged, though their lives were spared by Colonel Denny's intercession.

    Read the passage

    In the days of William III. and King James, the forces of the latter held Kerry till August 1 69 1 , and Tralee was again burnt on the approach of General Ginkel. Ginkel ordered Captains Navarre and O'Loughnane, who had ordered the burning, to be hanged. But their lives were saved by the intercession of Colonel Denny. An action near Lixnaw seems to have been the only fighting which took place in Kerry during the Revolution of 1688. After it was all over, there was the attainder of the adherents of King James, and amongst others the Lord Kenmare of the day lost his estates. They were, however, eventually restored, and Kerry settled down to the humdrum life of the 1 8th century. Its chivalrous and romantic history ended with the Stuarts. But somehow when travelling through the county it seems as if the life and spirit of the i6th century were nearer the heart of Kerry than any intervening period.

    Even yet are heard the tales of the Spaniards, of Fort Del Ore, and of the Armada, as though the events connected with them occurred yesterday. The '^ Earl of Desmond's pipers" are heard in the wailing of wintry gales, and old, halfruined, forgotten churches, abbeys, and castles speak eloquently of the days when the great Queen Elizabeth broke the power of the feudal lords of the County Palatine of Kerry.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Tralee was burnt in 1691, as General Ginkel approached. The forces of King James had held Kerry until August of that year. Captains Navarre and O'Loughnane had ordered the burning. Ginkel ordered them to be hanged, but their lives were saved by the intercession of Colonel Denny. An action near Lixnaw seems to have been the only fighting that took place in Kerry during the Revolution of 1688. After it was all over, there was the attainder of the adherents of King James, and the Lord Kenmare of the day lost his estates. They were eventually restored, and Kerry settled down to the humdrum life of the 18th century. Its chivalrous and romantic history ended with the Stuarts. Even yet are heard the tales of the Spaniards, of Fort Del Ore, and of the Armada, as though the events connected with them occurred yesterday. The "Earl of Desmond's pipers" are heard in the wailing of wintry gales, and old, half ruined, forgotten churches, abbeys, and castles speak of the days when the great Queen Elizabeth broke the power of the feudal lords of the County Palatine of Kerry.

28. Castlemaine Old Bridge and former frontier fortress

    Castlemaine · town · Kerry

    The Old Bridge at Castlemaine marks the site of the old frontier fortress between Kerry and Desmond, the key of the palatine county of Kerry. It was held at various times by MacCarthy More and the Geraldines until Elizabeth's Council deemed it too important for any but a Crown-appointed Constable.

    Read the passage

    Rejoining the high-road to the summit of the pass, the traveller goes through a wild bit of mountain scenery, and at the far end before the top is reached the hill is fairly steep. From the head of the pass, which is 1064 ft. over the sea, a grand panorama is obtained. Far beneath is the valley of the Maine and the Laune, backed by the Killarney hills, the Reeks, and Caragh Mountains ; the whole country glimmers with lakes and streams, till dim and blue the mountains dip to the sea beyond Glenbeigh. A zigzag road, very steep in places, leads to the valley on the southern side of the pass. A mile from Castlemaine this road joins the main road from Tralee. Travellers should not omit to look at the Old Bridge at Castlemaine, and if the imagination is sufliciently vivid the picture of an ancient keep may be seen rising from the foundation piers of the bridge. Here was the old frontier fortress between Kerry and Desmond in the days of old — the key of the palatine county of Kerry — held at one time by MacCarthy More and at another by the Geraldines, till Elizabeth's Council deemed it too important to be entrusted to any but a Constable appointed by the Crown.

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    The road comes down through wild mountain scenery, a steep climb to the head of the pass at 1064 feet over the sea. From there the valley of the Maine and the Laune opens out beneath, backed by the Killarney hills, the Reeks, and the Caragh Mountains. The whole country glimmers with lakes and streams, and far off the mountains dip to the sea beyond Glenbeigh. A zigzag road, very steep in places, leads down the southern side, and a mile from Castlemaine it joins the main road from Tralee. As you pass through Castlemaine, look at the Old Bridge. Its foundation piers still hold the picture of an ancient keep. This was the old frontier fortress between Kerry and Desmond, the key of the palatine county of Kerry. MacCarthy More held it at one time, and the Geraldines held it at another, until Elizabeth's Council decided it was too important to be entrusted to anyone but a Constable appointed by the Crown.

29. Derrycunihy — deer sightings along the road

    Derrycunihy · townland · Kerry

    Wild red deer may frequently be seen when driving to Derrycunihy, or when descending the long range from the upper lake to Dinas by boat. Japanese deer also inhabit the woods on the chain of hills from Tore to Derrycunihy.

    Read the passage

    to tourists. But the wild red deer may frequently be seen when driving to Derrycunihy, or when descending the " long range " from the upper lake to Dinas by boat ; and an attraction to the ascent of Mangerton is afforded in the view over the forest ground which lies beneath, where deer may always be observed with the aid of a telescope. Japanese deer, beautiful creatures about the size of a fallow deer, live in the woods which clothe the sides of Tore and the whole chain of hills to Derrycunihy. Occasionally one of these animals may be seen, but they are not fond of the open as a rule, and hence the chance of a sight of one of them is not so common as it is of the red deer. Wild goats are found in the inaccessible cliffs of Brandon and Carrantuohill, and a few exist on " Eagle's Nest." Foxes and badgers are in considerable numbers in the fastnesses of the hills, but needless to say are rarely seen owing to their nocturnal habits, and the fact that the greater part of their lives is spent underground in safe places which defy the efforts of the spade. Hill shepherds see them, however, and tell stories of their evil deeds. The mountain hare i^lepus variabilis) is the only species of hare found in Kerry. On the high mountains in winter time this animal turns nearly white, and instances of pure white specimens have occurred more than once. Years ago the marten cat was not uncommon in the woods about Glena Toomies and Caragh Lake, but of late years it has been rarely heard of and still more rarely seen. The stoat is fairly common, but the weasel is unknown. Otters are too numerous to please the fishermen. But like the fox and badger, they are rarely seen by casual visitors. Occasionally an otter may be

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 11

30. Illauntannig old church, beehive huts and travelling cross

    Illauntannig · townland · Kerry

    Illauntannig (Leary's Island), the only inhabited island of the Magharee group, contains the remains of an old church, beehive huts, and an old rude cross. A legend relates that the cross was once carried to the mainland but mysteriously returned to the island of its own accord.

    Read the passage

    Leary's Island or Illauntannig is the only one inhabited, and on it are to be found the remains of an old church with beehive huts and an old rude cross about which wonderful legends have gathered. Once upon a time some daring soul transported this cross to the mainland, but by some mysterious means it was borne back to the island again and has remained there ever since. The church, too, has its legend. Kilsagnene or Kilshannig means the "lonesome church,'' and tradition has it that at some remote period of our history a Spanish ship arrived here with a number of the crew dead of some frightful unknown disease. The survivors interred the bodies in the night time in this church, and ever since then the people of Kilshannig have been afraid to open any new grave in this place lest they should " wake the plague."

    " R." in the Kerry Magazine wrote years ago about this, but there is only space here for one verse of the poem —

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

31. Innisfallen: 7th-century monastic centre of learning and hospitality

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry · 600–700

    Innisfallen Island in Lough Leane was an abode of religion and learning in the 7th century. The Venerable Bede records that English noblemen retired there for religious instruction and that the monks maintained them free of expense. The island is chiefly connected with St Finan Lothar, a disciple of St Brandon and son of the King of Munster.

    Read the passage

    Innisfallen in the yth century was an abode of religion and learning. The Venerable Bede mentions it in his "Church History," and gives a pleasing picture of the generous hospitality of the monks in the days when St Finan and Coleman were bishops. He tells how men of high rank amongst the English left their native land and retired to this island for religious instruction, and how the monks received them willingly and maintained them free of expense. It is with the name of St Finan Lothar or the Leper that Innisfallen is chiefly connected. He was a son of the King of Munster, and a disciple of St Brandon, and the following is a beautiful legend as to the manner in which he obtained his name, the " Leper " : — The saint of Innisfallen possessed a marvellous

    KERRY

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 41

32. Killarney Cathedral designed by Pugin, 1846–1856

    Killarney · townland · Kerry · 1846–1856

    Killarney Cathedral, built of white limestone in the Early English style, was designed by the late Mr Pugin and constructed between 1846 and 1856. The N. transept window, where the Bishops of Kerry are buried, was erected by the Earl of Kenmare as a thankoffering for his daughter's recovery.

    Read the passage

    ( I ) Driving or walking down to the end of New Street opposite the main gate lodge of Killarney House stands the Cathedral in a wide-open space, flanked by the Presentation Convent, the palace of the Bishop, and the Schools and Chapel of the Christian Brothers. Built of white limestone, of the Early English style of architecture, this Cathedral is one of the most beautiful works of the late Mr Pugin. Begun in 1846, it was finished in 1856. The more you look at this Cathedral the more you are struck by the exceedingly good taste in which everything pertaining to it is carried out. People say it is some twenty or thirty feet too short. Be that as it may, the fact does not strike the ordinary observer, and the whole scheme of the church appears quite in harmony. Inside, the building is equally graceful and dignified. The beautiful window of the N. transept, where the Bishops of Kerry lie buried, was put up by the late Earl of Kenmare as a thankoffering for the recovery of his daughter. Visitors who have

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 37

33. MacCarthy More and O'Donoghues buried at Muckross Abbey

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The celebrated MacCarthy More, who was taken prisoner by Lord-Deputy Sir Henry Sidney and later created Earl of Glencar by Elizabeth, lies buried in Muckross Abbey. Tombs of the O'Donoghues of the Glens are also to be seen there, alongside mouldering and largely illegible tombstones.

    Read the passage

    The final destruction of this abbey came in 1652. After the Desmond rebellion the lands of the abbey as well as of Innisfallen were given to a Captain Collam. They came into the possession of the Herbert family through a marriage with the heiress of the MacCarthy More. Muckross Abbey and the house and park were purchased by Lord Ardilaun in the year 1899. The celebrated MacCarthy More — he who was taken prisoner and bound over to keep the peace by the Lord-Deputy, Sir Henry Sidney, and who was afterwards created Earl of Glencar by Elizabeth — lies buried in Muckross Abbey. There are also tombs of the O'Donoghues of the Glens to be seen there.

    Leaving Muckross Abbey, a road passes through a gate and goes- along a drive rich with St John's-

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 43

34. Napoleonic watch-tower at Fahan

    Fahan · townland · Kerry

    An old watch-tower stands on the cliffs at Fahan overlooking the sea near Slea Head. It was built to accommodate soldiers during the threat of French invasion in Napoleon's time, part of a network of similar towers around the Irish coast.

    Read the passage

    cliffs overlooking the sea, a short distance from the main road. This old tower, like many others around the coast, was built for the accommodation of soldiers when Ireland was threatened by a French invasion in the days of Napoleon. Near Fahan, and on the L. of the road, is Dunbeg Fort. This fine specimen of cyclopean work, marking the culminating period of Irish heroic history just prior to the introduction of Christianity, consists of three ramparts and a main stone wall, reaching across the headland on which the fort stands. This wall is 200 ft. long and 22 ft. thick. The inner wall is 9 ft. in height and the outer 5 ft. The doorway in this massive construction is specially worthy of notice. A mile beyond Dunbeg, on the R. of the road, is a collection of beehive huts, some of them being in an excellent state of repair. This interesting group of buildings goes usually by the name of *' The Town." Here also we are face to face with the prehistoric age merging into the ecclesiastical period. Thence the good, fairly surfaced road winds along the edge of the cliffs, at the base of Mount Eagle, affording fine views of the Blasket Islands, Innishnabro, Innishvickillane, and the Great Blasket and Beginish. At Dunquin, the little fishing village opposite the Great Blasket, a boat may be obtained and a visit made to the nearer islands. And here it may not be out of place to give some short notices of these interesting outposts of Kerry.

    (3) The Blasket Islands. The name Blasket is said to be derived from the Irish word " Blaosc " or " Blaosg," meaning a scale or shell, and like most Celtic names its meaning

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, standing on the cliffs overlooking the sea, is an old watch-tower. It was built for the accommodation of soldiers when Ireland was threatened by a French invasion in the days of Napoleon. Like many others around the coast, it formed part of a network meant to guard against that threat. Near here also is Dunbeg Fort, a fine specimen of cyclopean work. It marks what the source calls the culminating period of Irish heroic history, just prior to the introduction of Christianity. The fort consists of three ramparts and a main stone wall reaching across the headland on which it stands. That wall is 200 ft. long and 22 ft. thick. The inner wall is 9 ft. in height and the outer 5 ft. The doorway in this massive construction is specially worthy of notice. A mile beyond Dunbeg is a collection of beehive huts, some of them in an excellent state of repair. This group of buildings goes by the name of The Town. Here, the source says, we are face to face with the prehistoric age merging into the ecclesiastical period. From there the road winds along the edge of the cliffs at the base of Mount Eagle, affording fine views of the Blasket Islands, Innishnabro, Innishvickillane, the Great Blasket, and Beginish. At Dunquin, the little fishing village opposite the Great Blasket, a boat may be obtained and a visit made to the nearer islands.

35. St James's Anglican Church, Dingle, and Knight of Kerry tablet

    Dingle · townland · Kerry

    The Anglican Church in Dingle, dedicated to St James, is alleged to have been built at the cost of Spanish merchants and traders. The small unpretentious building contains an interesting memorial tablet to a former Knight of Kerry with a Latin inscription.

    Read the passage

    The AngHcan Church, dedicated to St James, and alleged to have been built at the cost of the Spanish merchants and traders, though this seems unlikely, stands a little off the main street. It is a small unpretentious building, but contains an interesting tablet to a former Knight of Kerry, the inscription on which runs as follows : —

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36. Ruined Abbey Church at Ballinskelligs

    Ballinskelligs · townland · Kerry · 600–700

    A ruined abbey church dedicated to St Michael the Archangel stands on the shores of Ballinskelligs Bay with its eastern foundations washed by the tides. It belonged to the Augustinian Canons, and tradition holds that monks from Skellig Michael came there in later days; an old stone font survives inside.

    Read the passage

    Ducalla Head ends in a cul de sac), and at the head of the pass, a half-mile farther on, the Skelligs will be seen to great advantage. This road descends the southern slope of the hills to Ballinskelligs, meeting the main road from that village to Cahirciveen and Waterville. At Ballinskelligs a visit should be paid to the little Abbey Church standing in ruins on the shores of the bay, its eastern foundations washed by the tides. It is not known accurately when this abbey, dedicated to St Michael the Archangel, was founded, but it belonged at one time to the Augustine Canons, and tradition says that the monks who lived on the Great Skellig Michael came hither in later days. Special note should be made of the old stone font in the interior of this ruined church.

    Most of the abbeys of the period of this one seem to have belonged to the Canons of St Augustine, and probably date from the coming of St Augustine's mission to England to the gradual reform of the Celtic Church by the missionaries of the better organised and more vigorous Church of Rome. It is the period which saw the struggle between St Wilfred and St Chad in England, and the disputes about the Paschal Feast and the tonsure. This would put the establishment of these Augustinian abbeys to the period from the end of the 6th to the early and middle part of the yth centuries of our era. The Augustine missionaries came and imparted fresh life and vigour into the old established monastic institutions founded by Celtic saints, and brought them into closer connection with the centre of Christianity. Munster came under the renovated Roman discipline in the early half of the yth century. From the very early years of the Christian era

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 71

37. Tralee's ancient streets echo the lost abbey and castle of the Geraldines

    Tralee · townland · Kerry

    Castle Street, Mary Street, and Abbey Street in Tralee recall the town's medieval past as a chief stronghold of the Earl of Desmond and the site of a fair abbey of White Friars dedicated to St Mary the Virgin. The present Square is supposed to occupy the site of the cloisters of the ancient monastic building.

    Read the passage

    Approaches, (i) Tralee can be approached by the Great Southern and Western Railway from Dublin, 'via Mallow and Killarney, or (2) by the same line of railway from Dublin, njid Limerick and Listowel. The busy thriving town with some 10,000 inhabitants, which has risen to importance in comparatively recent times, shows few signs of antiquity. ''Castle Street" and ''Mary Street" and "Abbey Street " come like echoes from the past to remind us that here in the centre of the present

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Tralee was a chief stronghold of the Earl of Desmond. The thriving town of about 10,000 inhabitants shows few signs of antiquity, but the old street names carry echoes from the past. Castle Street, Mary Street, and Abbey Street recall a fair abbey of White Friars dedicated to St Mary the Virgin. The present Square is supposed to occupy the site of the cloisters of that ancient monastic building.

38. Castle Macelligott destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers

    Ballymacelligott · townland · Kerry

    Near Arabela, between Tralee and Castleisland, Castle Macelligott stood until it was battered down by Cromwell's soldiers. Colonel MacElligott, son of the proprietor of Ballymacelligott, later saved Colonel David Crosbie's life when Ballingarry fort was captured in 1641.

    Read the passage

    Ballymacelligott. Five m. from Tralee, and nearly midway between that place and Castleisland, is Arabela. A cross-road leads (i m.) to a small collection of houses, with church and parsonage, which compose the village of Ballymacelligott. Near Arabela, " Castle Macelligott '^ stood till it was battered down by Cromwell's soldiers. The proprietor of Ballymacelligott married Grace Crosbie, and his son Colonel MacElligott, saved Colonel David Crosbie's life when Ballingarry fort was captured in the evil days of 1641. (See sub-chapter, Ballyheige and Ballingarry.)

    (9) Tralee to Castlemaine by *' Foley's Glen,'' A variety may be made in the monotony of car and train travelling if the traveller wishes, by sending luggage by train from Tralee to Castlemaine, and walking over the pass which leads straight S. over the hills to Castlemaine village (7 m.). The distance being short and the scenery striking, this diversion can be strongly recommended. The first part of the journey is made by the hill at Ballyard, past the pretty grounds of Ballyard House, the residence of Mr Robert FitzGerald, on the R., and thence to the foot of the pass (2^ m.), or by the road which leads from the town past the barracks, and turning to the R. at the ruined bit of Ballymullen Castle (|^ m.), goes with one slight bend to the same point at the foot of the pass. A mountain torrent comes down the glen, hidden in places by trees and shrubs. The road follows the line of the stream for i m.,

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

39. Dingle as former seat of the Knights of Kerry

    Dingle · townland · Kerry

    Dingle and its surroundings were formerly known as the 'Knight of Kerry's Country.' The shifting fortunes of the Geraldines through the reigns of Elizabeth, Charles I, and subsequent monarchs eventually led to the transfer of the Knights' seat from Dingle to Valencia.

    Read the passage

    Cromwell's cannon shots found at Fort Point. The gardens, however, are well worth visiting, with their wealth of bamboos, tree ferns, eucalyptus, and fuchsias (one of the latter being the largest known). Numbers of rare shrubs and plants of all kinds flourish at Glanleam, the sheltered situation and the mild climate affording special facilities for their growth. Amongst the number of shrubs may be noted the scarlet flowering Embothrium coccinum, or coral tree. On the summit of a green hill to the N. of the house stands a beautiful Irish cross, placed there to perpetuate the memory of the late Knight of Kerry — if indeed any memorial was required to keep alive the memory of that chivalrous, gentle " Knight'' who still lives in the affections of the people of Kerry. Formerly the "Knight of Kerry's Country" was in and around Dingle. The wars and changes of government through the days of Elizabeth, Charles I., and the succeedings reigns brought varying fortunes to the Geraldines, and, amongst others, was the change from Dingle to Valencia, and now " The Grove " and ^' Rahinane Castle," the former residences of the " Knights," are almost forgotten.

    (3) Round Valencia Island. Another expedition may be made from Knight's Town. Drive or bicycle out along the road past Chapel Town towards the ferry for Portmagee, and thence as far as the road v/ill lead towards the W. (6 m.). A walk along the hill-side for a mile brings the traveller to the old Signal Station, a tower built in 181 5, at the extreme western point of the island. Recently this old building has been taken over by the naval authorities for the purpose of forming a

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 76

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dingle was once what they called the Knight of Kerry's Country. Dingle and the land around it formed the seat of the Knights of Kerry, the Geraldine family, and their residences here were the Grove and Rahinane Castle. The wars and changes of government across the reigns of Elizabeth, Charles the First, and the monarchs who followed brought varying fortunes to the Geraldines. Among the consequences was the transfer of the Knights' seat from Dingle to Valencia. The Grove and Rahinane Castle, the former residences of the Knights here, are now almost forgotten. The late Knight of Kerry was remembered as a chivalrous, gentle figure. An Irish cross was placed on a green hill to perpetuate his memory, though the book says, "if indeed any memorial was required to keep alive the memory" of one who "still lives in the affections of the people of Kerry." At Glanleam the gardens hold a wealth of bamboos, tree ferns, eucalyptus, and fuchsias, one of the fuchsias being the largest known. Numbers of rare shrubs and plants flourish there, the sheltered situation and mild climate affording special facilities for their growth. Among the shrubs is the scarlet flowering Embothrium coccinum, or coral tree. Cromwell's cannon shots were found at Fort Point.

40. Dunloe Castle, an inhabited feudal keep

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry · 1000–1099

    Dunloe Castle, said to be founded about the 11th century, is one of the few old feudal keeps still inhabited. It came to the Mahony family through marriage with an heiress of O'Sullivan More and was probably built to guard the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe.

    Read the passage

    Dunloe Castle. This old castle is one of the few old feudal keeps still inhabited. Founded, so it is said, about the nth century, it stands in a commanding position on a hill bounded on the E. by the Laune River, and on the N. by the little stream, the Loe, which comes from the loughs in the Gap of Dunloe. The land on which the castle stands slopes suddenly to the river on the N. and N.E. side, and on the S.E. spreads out in a broad sweep well timbered, which affords a long-distance view of the Lower Lake of Killarney. Dunloe must have been a strong place in olden times, and was probably built to guard the entrance to the " Gap." It has been in the Mahony family for many generations, having come to them by a marriage of a Mahony with an heiress of O' Sullivan More, and has moreover been instrumental in history making, as all readers of Froude are aware. Originally the castle was much larger than the present building would lead one to expect ;

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41. Dunloe Cave and its Ogham stones

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry · 1838

    A subterranean chamber was discovered by workmen about 1838 at the edge of a small plantation near the Dunloe demesne entrance gate. The flagstones covering the rudely built cave are all inscribed with Ogham characters.

    Read the passage

    As the traveller nears Beaufort Bridge he should specially note the view looking up the Laune River to the Gap of Dunloe. Across the bridge the lodge gate of Beaufort House is passed on the L., and a small collection of houses, picturesque in their way, with a post office and police barrack, mark the village. Half-a-mile farther on the demesne of Dunloe is met on the L. Four hundred yards due S. of the entrance gate, at the edge of a small plantation, is the cave of Dunloe, famous for its Ogham stones. About the year 1838 some workmen discovered this subterranean chamber, rudely built and covered with flagstones. These stones are all inscribed with Ogham characters. For some few remarks on these Ogham monuments see Section IX., under the head of " Antiquities."

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42. Innisfallen Island: monastery and oratory of St Finan

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

    The island of Innisfallen holds ruins of a monastery and oratory perpetuating the memory of St Finan. The monastic buildings include a church with two narrow east-end windows, remains of a refectory, faint cloister traces, and the Abbot's house, while a small Romanesque oratory with a round-arched doorway stands on a craggy point over the lake.

    Read the passage

    Innisfallen Island, A short distance by water from the quay at Ross Castle lies the island of Innisfallen — celebrated not only for its scenery and its sweet-sounding name, but still more for the interest which attaches to the ruined monastery and oratory which perpetuates the memory of St Finan. The monastic buildings consist of a church with two narrow east-end windows of probably loth century architecture, remains of a refectory, faint traces of cloisters, the Abbot's house, and other conventual buildings, built in somewhat irregular form. The foundations of the miniature cloister can be traced in the grass on the N. side of the church. Inside the church, slabs graven with the Latin and Celtic crosses mark the graves of forgotten members of the community. But perhaps more interesting than the conventual ruins is the little Romanesque oratory which stands on a craggy point over the lake, a few yards from the main buildings. This little edifice, built of the most massive masonry, has a round arched- Romanesque W. doorway, where the decoration is singularly perfect. The small E. window looks out over the lake to-

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43. Kildrellig pagan stones with Christian crosses

    Kildreelig · townland · Kerry

    At Kildrellig near Ballinskelligs are old "gallauns," or upright massive stones, possibly used as pagan gravestones. Some were later adopted by Christians who engraved rude incised crosses surrounded by circles on them.

    Read the passage

    Kildrellig, A road leads from Ballinskelligs to an old signal-station on Bolus Head (3^ m.). An old fort is met with 2 m. from BaUinskelligs along this road, and at Kildrellig also may be seen some old " gallauns," or upright massive stones which may have been used as gravestones in pagan times. Some of these seem here to have been adopted by Christians, and rude in-

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44. Killarney House and Demesne gardens with panoramic lake views

    Killarney · townland · Kerry · 1875–1881

    Killarney House, a modern Elizabethan building begun in 1875 and finished in 1881, occupied a magnificent site with terraced gardens overlooking Lough Leane and surrounding mountains including Carrantuohill, Beenkeragh, Tore, and Mangerton. The old house had stood on flat land closer to the town. The Kenmare family had been associated with the estate since the days of Queen Elizabeth.

    Read the passage

    (4) Opposite the gates of the Cathedral is the main entrance gate of Killarney Demesne. Visitors are allowed to see the grounds and gardens and to enjoy the view from the terrace on application at this gate. This view is perhaps the most beautiful of the many around Killarney. Below the house and gardens lies the park, stretching away to Ross Castle and the islet-studded Lough Leane. Beyond the lake the far-distant mountains of Dunkerron are seen to the S., and nearer Eagle's Nest, Glena, and Toomies, with their lower slopes clothed with wood, and their summits clear-cut against the sky. Looking W. are to be seen the highest mountains in Ireland, Carrantuohill and its sister peak Beenkeragh. Eastwards, Tore, Mangerton, and the peak of Crohane form the background to the garden. Killarney House is a modern Elizabethan building, begun in 1875, ^"^ finished in the year 1881. The old house stood down on the flat land close to the town, near where the stables are situated at present. A more beautiful site than that occupied by the present house it would be hard to imagine, and impossible to find. Every natural feature has been taken advantage of to make the gardens interesting and attractive. Terrace leads to terrace, garden to garden, each with its wealth of flowers and shrubs too numerous to mention, till the roses and azalias seem to merge and lose themselves in the surrounding woods. Here and there openings have been judiciously cut which afford glimpses of the lake and islets, whilst

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45. Killarney town built on perpetual leases from Earl of Kenmare

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    An ancestor of the Earl of Kenmare granted leases in perpetuity to anyone who would build a house in Killarney, resulting in the town's irregular layout and lack of modern amenities. This explains the unimpressive general appearance of the town at first sight.

    Read the passage

    from which the numerous lanes branch off. At first sight the general appearance of the town is not impressive. Many years ago an ancestor of the present Earl of Kenmare gave a lease for ever to all and every one who would build a house, and this accounts to some extent for the irregularity and the want of much that is considered desirable in a modern town. But, leaving aside the general description of Killarney town, which is really a matter of little importance to passing visitors, who are accommodated as comfortably as possible in many hotels in and outside the urban boundary, let us consider the places of interest and see what there is to be seen. "^

    ( I ) Driving or walking down to the end of New Street opposite the main gate lodge of Killarney House stands the Cathedral in a wide-open space, flanked by the Presentation Convent, the palace of the Bishop, and the Schools and Chapel of the Christian Brothers. Built of white limestone, of the Early English style of architecture, this Cathedral is one of the most beautiful works of the late Mr Pugin. Begun in 1846, it was finished in 1856. The more you look at this Cathedral the more you are struck by the exceedingly good taste in which everything pertaining to it is carried out. People say it is some twenty or thirty feet too short. Be that as it may, the fact does not strike the ordinary observer, and the whole scheme of the church appears quite in harmony. Inside, the building is equally graceful and dignified. The beautiful window of the N. transept, where the Bishops of Kerry lie buried, was put up by the late Earl of Kenmare as a thankoffering for the recovery of his daughter. Visitors who have

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 37

46. Muckross forest — sole Irish habitat of indigenous red deer

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The forest of Muckross, along with the adjoining forest of the Earl of Kenmare, is the only place in Ireland where indigenous wild red deer are still found. The Muckross forest covers the west slope of Mangerton Mountain, Tore, and the Toomies.

    Read the passage

    Animals, — The County of Kerry has the distinction of being the only part of Ireland where the wild red deer [cervus elaphus)^ indigenous to the country, are still to be found. The forest of Muckross and that of the Earl of Kenmare, which " marches '' with it, are the places where these red deer are to be seen. The former forest embraces the west slope of Mangerton Mountain, and Tore, and the Toomies, and the latter the hills and corries behind Derrycunihy, the lower slopes of the Purple mountain and Glena. Both these forests being strictly preserved are inaccessible

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47. Music from Skellig Michael monastery

    near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry

    A strange tradition on the neighbouring mainland tells of music said to issue from the monastery on Skellig Michael at night time.

    Read the passage

    A strange story is sometimes to be heard in the neighbouring mainland of music which is said to issue from the monastery at night time. Many years ago a custom prevailed in Kerry of issuing what was called a " Skelligs List," containing the names of the young men and maidens who had not married at " Shrove Tide." Should a young person not be married by Shrove Tuesday, he or she was said to " go to the Skelligs." The origin of this saying was probably due to the following fact. When the Roman computation of Easter, introduced to the Western Church by St Hilary, found its way to Ireland in the yth century, Munster at once accepted it. More of the out-of-the-way places, however, adhered for a long time to the old Celtic method of computing the time of the Paschal Feast, and amongst these places the Skellig Michael.

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48. Osprey sighted near Lough Avoonane under Brandon, 1904

    Lough Avoonane · lake or lakes · Kerry · 1904

    An osprey was seen near Lough Avoonane under the high saddle-back peak of Brandon in 1904. Ospreys do not nest in Kerry and specimens seen are probably migrants.

    Read the passage

    shooting near the same mountain saw a pair of golden eagles which soared and circled in spirals overhead for a long time. Peasants in the Iveragh Mountains and on by Waterville tell of the days when eagles were numerous enough to be a serious cause of anxiety to flock masters. The osprey has been seen on various occasions, and as late as 1904 one of these birds was seen near Lough Avoonane under the high saddle-back peak of Brandon. The birds do not nest in Kerry, and the specimens seen from time to time are probably migrants. The peregrine falcon is still to be found in the wilder parts of the county where inaccessible cliffs afford safe nesting places. The merlin, kestrel, and hen harrier are all fairly common. There are only two owls known in Kerry. The barn owl (strixjlammed) and the long- eared owl (asio otus). The latter is frequently met with in the woods in winter time, where he sometimes falls a victim to mistaken identity. A beater shouts '' mark cock," and the poor owl falls. The red grouse is the only specimen of the tetraonidae to be found in the county. Black game, ptarmigan, or capercailzie do not exist. This information is given for the benefit of Scotch visitors, who almost invariably ask the question. Quail were formerly found in Kerry, but for many years they have not been seen. Partridges, too, are becoming less numerous every year. The chief of the game birds are the woodcock and snipe, which come in large numbers every winter. Many of both these species of birds breed in the county. The raven is still to be seen in the wild district to the W. and N. of Dingle, and in some of the more remote districts of

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49. Pierce Ferriter of Castle Sybil near Ballyferriter

    Ballyferriter · townland · Kerry · 1641

    Pierce Ferriter of Castle Sybil near Ballyferriter was one of the officers selected by Lord Kerry who deserted to the confederate Irish side in 1641 and assisted in harassing English settlers.

    Read the passage

    When the revolt broke out this Lord Kerry only got arms for 124 men, and made an unfortunate selection of the officers for his forces — Pierce Ferriter of Castle Sybil, near Ballyferriter, Donagh Macgillycuddy, O'Donoghue of Glenilesk, MacEliigott of Bally MacElligott, and Walter Hussey of Castlegregory. All these men deserted to the side of the confederate Irish and assisted in harassing the English settlers. These English settlers were in sore straits in 1641. Castlemaine was taken by Daniel MacCarthy, and on the march of the confederate forces to Tralee, many of the gentry went off to join the Lord President St Leger, whilst others fortified their strong places and prepared to resist.

    Two names are prominent in the history of these times for gallant conduct. One Colonel David Crosbie, who held on to Ballingarry Fort for four years, and endured innumerable hardships and privations in his brave defence ; and the other Sir Thomas Harris, the defender of the castle of Tralee. He had been entrusted with the

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Castle Sybil, the home of Pierce Ferriter. When the revolt broke out, Lord Kerry got arms for 124 men, but he made an unfortunate selection of officers. Pierce Ferriter of Castle Sybil was one of them, along with Donagh Macgillycuddy, O'Donoghue of Glenilesk, MacElligott of Bally MacElligott, and Walter Hussey of Castlegregory. All of these men deserted to the side of the confederate Irish and assisted in harassing the English settlers. Those settlers were in sore straits in 1641. Castlemaine was taken by Daniel MacCarthy, and on the march of the confederate forces to Tralee, many of the gentry went off to join the Lord President St Leger, whilst others fortified their strong places and prepared to resist. Two names stand out in the history of these times for gallant conduct. Colonel David Crosbie held on to Ballingarry Fort for four years, enduring innumerable hardships in his brave defence. And Sir Thomas Harris was the defender of the castle of Tralee.

50. Queen Scota's burial at Slieve Mish

    Slieve Mish · monument · Antrim

    According to the Annals of the Four Masters, Queen Scota, daughter of Pharaoh and wife of Milidh, was killed in a battle at Sliabh Mis (Slieve Mish) when the Milesians came to Ireland. She was buried in the glen through which the traveller walks to Castlemaine.

    Read the passage

    Queen Scota, The Queen Scota referred to in this chapter is said to have been a daughter of Pharaoh, and was the wife of Milidh a Milesian. According to the " Annals of the Four Masters," the age of the world was 3500 years when the Milesians came and fought a battle at Sliabh Mis (Slieve Mish), and Queen Scota was killed in that battle and buried in the glen through which the traveller has walked to Castlemaine.

    (10) Tralee to Castlegregory function, and over the Pass ofCaherhla, A very dehghtful day may be spent by going by the early train from Tralee to Castlegregory Junction (10 m.), and from that point following the road which runs by the R. bank of the Finglass River into the glen under the height of Caherconree (4 m.). This road is fair till the head of the glen is reached, when it becomes a loose gravelly mountain track torn by the torrents. The spring must be recommended as the time for this journey, when the larch woods in the glen are vivid green, and the uplands are glowing with gorse in bold contrast to the warm brown colours on the mountain. The view from the pass at the head of the glen and for the whole way down to the main road near Kiel affords the most beautiful views of Castlemaine and Dingle Bays, and the range of the Reeks and Carrantuohill. The return journey may be made by the road which runs from Kiel to Castlemaine (3 m.), and around the low eastern shoulder of the Slieve Mish range to Tralee. The whole distance from Castlegregory Junction over the pass to Castlemaine would be 13 m.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

51. Sack of Fort Del Ore and massacre of garrison

    Smerwick · townland · Kerry · 1580

    The taking of Fort Del Ore by English land and sea forces, including Admiral Winter's fleet with the Revenge, was accomplished in three days. The subsequent killing of the garrison cast a slur on the names of those involved.

    Read the passage

    After the taking of Fort Del Ore the old Earl of Desmond was a hunted fugitive with a price on his head. For three years he led a wild roving life with a few followers, raiding the castles of those of his clan who had made their submission to the English. Many a time he was called on to submit, but as often refused, saying that he " would rather desert God than his men." Eleanor, Countess of Desmond, seems to have shared her husband's hardship most bravely, and on one occasion when keeping Christmas near Killmullock, he was " sore beset" and had to fly and stand up to his neck in an icy cold river " with his lady " to escape the English soldiers. But at last the end came in the wood of Glounaneenty near Tralee. Surrounded and unable to escape, the Earl of Desmond begged that his life might be spared. But a ruffian called Kelly struck oflP his head, which was sent

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 24

52. Signal Station tower at western point of Valencia Island

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 1815

    A signal tower built in 1815 stands at the extreme western point of Valencia Island. Recently taken over by naval authorities for a modern signal station, this black mass of masonry overlooks the Atlantic from windswept cliffs near the Skelligs rocks.

    Read the passage

    (3) Round Valencia Island. Another expedition may be made from Knight's Town. Drive or bicycle out along the road past Chapel Town towards the ferry for Portmagee, and thence as far as the road v/ill lead towards the W. (6 m.). A walk along the hill-side for a mile brings the traveller to the old Signal Station, a tower built in 181 5, at the extreme western point of the island. Recently this old building has been taken over by the naval authorities for the purpose of forming a

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53. Sir William Drury marches to Tralee, 1576

    Tralee · townland · Kerry · 1576

    In 1576 Sir William Drury marched with 120 men to Kerry to enforce the Queen's writ in the palatinate. The Earl of Desmond offered him hospitality in Tralee, but as Drury neared the town he was met by armed followers of Desmond called 'the Wild Evil Children of the Wood.'

    Read the passage

    Mary Tudor had '' planted " the district of Leix, and called the area " King's County " and "Queen's County," after Philip II. of Spain and herself, and further "plantations" were in contemplation when Elizabeth came to the throne. But it was to Munster that this great queen chiefly turned her eyes, for Sir Henry Sidney, the father of the brave Sir Philip Sidney who died on the field of Zutphen, had written that there could be no peace till the palatinate jurisdiction of Desmond was reduced. As a check to the Geraldine power, the queen had, in the year 1565, created MacCarthy More Earl of Glencar, and in 1576 Sir William Drury marched with a small force of 120 men to Kerry for the purpose of enforcing the Queen's writ in the palatinate. The Earl of Desmond offered him hospitality in Tralee, and to this place Sir WiUiam Drury marched. As he neared the town he was met by a large horde of " kernes " and the folk called in the picturesque language of the age " the Wild Evil Children of the Wood." They were the followers

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in 1576, Sir William Drury came marching with 120 men. Elizabeth had her eyes on Munster. Sir Henry Sidney, the father of the brave Sir Philip Sidney who died on the field of Zutphen, had written that there could be no peace till the palatinate jurisdiction of Desmond was reduced. As a check to the Geraldine power, the queen had created MacCarthy More Earl of Glencar. Then she sent Drury into Kerry to enforce her writ in the palatinate. The Earl of Desmond offered him hospitality in Tralee, and to this place Drury marched. As he neared the town, he was met by a large horde of kernes, the followers of Desmond, called in the picturesque language of the age, in the words of the source, the Wild Evil Children of the Wood. This was the world waiting for Drury and his small force as they came close to Tralee.

54. St Brandon's oratory and holy well on Mount Brandon

    Brandon Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    On the higher point of Mount Brandon are the remains of an old oratory where St Brandon said Mass, and a holy well said never to run dry. The summit offers a celebrated panoramic view of Kerry headlands, the Killarney lakes, and the Blasket Islands.

    Read the passage

    3. From the village of Cloghane an ascent can be made by the comparatively easy slope which the shoulder of the hill affords, keeping the great wild glen, where Lough Cruttia lies, on the L. hand side. This is a well-known ascent, but if the weather is cloudy or the mist is hanging about, it would be well to take a guide. On the higher point of Mount Brandon are the remains of the old oratory where St Brandon said Mass, and also the holy well, which is said never to be dry, even in the hottest and driest summer weather. The view from the top of Brandon is one of the celebrated sights of Kerry, and it is enhanced by the magnificent cliffs, which seem to break off suddenly on the E. side and to go sheer down to the Cloghane valley. Experienced mountain climbers might find great joy in descending the mountain by the wild Lough Cruttia gorge. But this cannot be recommended to any but experienced mountaineers. From the summit on a clear day may be seen, far away to the N.E. over the well-known headlands of Kerry and Clare, the dim coast of Galway ; to the S.E. the Killarney Lakes and mountains and Caragh Lake, whilst to the S. are seen the whole chain of Iveragh Mountains, Valencia Island, the Skelligs, Bull, Cow, and Calf Rocks,

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

55. St Finan's name preserved across Ballinskelligs and Darrynane

    Lough Currane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    St Finan, patron saint of this part of the country, is commemorated in the ruined abbey at Darrynane, a ruined church on an island in Lough Currane near Waterville, and in St Finan's Bay and St Finan's Glen. The name Darrynane means 'St Finan's Oak Wood.'

    Read the passage

    lies close to the harbour, and a visit from this point ! should be made to the ruined abbey of St Finan. On this island, as well as on the neighbouring hills ■ near Darrynane, the rare plant *^ Simethis bicolor " ■ 18 to be found. The abbey presents a good example of the early Christian architecture of Ireland. But there are evidences that the church and the monastic buildings were built at different periods. Darrynane, in Irish " Doire Fhionain," means *' St Finan's Oak Wood," and the proper spelling of the present name is Darrynane, St Finan, the patron saint of this part of the country, has been described as "the Sun of Virtue and Sound Doctrine, sending his rays far and near over this island of Saints," and his memory is perpetuated in this lone ruin as well as in the ruined church on the island in Lough Currane, near Waterville, and in " St Finan's Bay " and " St Finan's Glen," all within the area of Ballinskelligs and Darrynane. This abbey was at one time in the occupation of the Austin Canons Regular, and possibly the present pile of buildings was of this later period, occupying the same site as an earlier foundation bearing the name of the saint. Returning past the entrance gates of Darrynane, the road to Caherdaniel may be followed direct along the foot of the hills [2^ m.), or, by ascending the steep incline, by the main road. The latter is rather a roundabout way, but presents the attraction of somewhat more extended views.

    Caherdaniel, Caherdaniel consists of a small cluster of houses with a church on a rise over a river, and surrounded by beautiful fuchsia hedges. The village stands at the entrance of a semicircle of hills facing the S., and takes its name from an old

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 63

56. Tearaght Rock lighthouse and seabird colony

    near Tearaght Island · townland · Kerry

    The Tearaght Rock is an irregular cone-shaped island in the Blasket group, 602 ft. high, with a lighthouse on its north end standing 275 ft. above the sea with a 45,000 candle-power light. Large numbers of puffins and storm petrels nest on the bare islet in spring.

    Read the passage

    The Tearaght Rock is an irregular cone-shaped island in the Blasket group, 602 ft. in height. On the N. end of this rock is the lighthouse, 275 ft. over the sea, and having a very powerful light of 45,000 candle-power. Large numbers of puffins (Fratercula Arcttca) come to this rock in the spring, and nest in the holes in the ground. The small storm petrel ( ProceIIariafelagica),ca\\ed by some "Mother Carey's chicken," also nests on this bare islet.

    Amongst the many legends of the W. of Ireland none is perhaps more pathetic than that which tells of an enchanted island far away in the W. " Y Breassail '' this island is called, and its glories are seen by eager watchers at sunset. Sometimes it has been seen so distinctly that sailors have gone forth to reach it, expecting to land in a few hours ; and two hundred years ago so sure was one Captain Rich of the existence of this wonderful island, that " he supposed " he discovered a harbour with two headlands, one on

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 88

57. The Lartigue Railway: Listowel to Ballybunnion

    Ballybunnion · town · Kerry

    A unique single-rail railway, the 'Lartigue Railway,' ran from Listowel to the coastal town of Ballybunnion. The author describes it as a 'curious single rail concern' that apparently served the needs of the locality.

    Read the passage

    Castlemaine, Milltown, and Killorglin to Caragh Lake, and thence by Glenbeigh and the *' Mountain Stage " along the line of the cliffs to Kells, Cahirciveen, and Valencia Harbour. From Gortatea Junction a short line leads direct to Castleisland. North Kerry can be reached by a line of the Great Southern and Western Railway, which runs from Limerick by Rathkeale, Abbey feale, Listowel, Abbeydorney, and Ardfert, direct to Tralee. From Tralee a short branch Hne connected with the Great Southern Railway runs by the Spa to Fenit (7 m. ), and from Listowel to Ballybunnion on the coast runs the " Lartigue Railway," a curious single rail concern, which apparently fulfils the needs demanded of it. A line of light railway called the '' Tralee and Dingle" line runs for 31 m. down the long peninsula of Corkaguiny past Blennerville, Castlegregory Junction, Auniseaul, and Lispole to the terminus in Dingle. A branch of this small line runs from Castlegregory Junction to the village of that name, 7 m. distant.

    The main line of the Great Southern and Western Railway goes through the flat country dividing North Kerry from S. and W., and the branch lines to Kenmare, Cahirciveen, and Valencia and Dingle follow very much the same routes as the old mail cars did in former years, climbing the hills and running through the valleys with astonishing pertinacity.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 16

58. Thomas FitzGerald buried in Tralee abbey in 1296

    Tralee · townland · Kerry · 1296

    In 1296, Thomas FitzGerald, the ancestor of a long line of Desmond chiefs, was buried in the abbey at Tralee. The monastic building seems to have existed with fluctuating fortune down to the reign of James II.

    Read the passage

    In 1296, Thomas FitzGerald, the ancestor of a long line of Desmond chiefs, was buried in this abbey. The present " Square '' is supposed to be the site of the cloisters of the ancient monastic building which seems with fluctuating fortune to have existed down to the reign of James II. It gave its martyrs to the Church, and amongst the number was the prior, who in 1653 refused to leave Ireland, and was condemned to the scaffold. He met his death "right manfully" in Killarney, saying with his last breath, "Into Thy hands. Lord, I commit my spirit."

    Another worthy brother of the Order of St Dominic in Tralee was Dominick O'Daly, who in 1655, under the name of Dominic a' Rosario, was rector of Campo Santo College in Portugal, and established " Le Convent de Bon Succes " for Irish

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Tralee, an abbey once stood whose cloisters are thought to lie beneath the present Square. In 1296, Thomas FitzGerald, ancestor of a long line of Desmond chiefs, was buried in that abbey. The monastic building carried on with fluctuating fortune down to the reign of James II. It gave martyrs to the Church. Among them was the prior, who in 1653 refused to leave Ireland and was condemned to the scaffold. He met his death, in the source's words, "right manfully" in Killarney, saying with his last breath, "Into Thy hands, Lord, I commit my spirit." Another brother of the Order of St Dominic in Tralee was Dominick O'Daly, who in 1655, under the name Dominic a' Rosario, became rector of Campo Santo College in Portugal and established Le Convent de Bon Succes for Irish

59. Portmagee as departure point for the Skelligs

    Portmagee · townland · Kerry

    Portmagee is the recommended departure point for excursions to the Skellig Rocks, using a ten-oared 'Seine' boat. The passage to the Great Skellig across a twelve-mile strait takes about two hours in calm weather.

    Read the passage

    Valencia, Cahirciveen, or Waterville should make a special point of trying to visit the Skelligs Rocks. It is not always an easy thing to achieve, and needless to say calm weather is essential to the enjoyment of an excursion. A strait of 12 m. wide lies between the great *^ Skellig Michael " and the mainland, and perhaps the best way to approach both the islands is by a ten-oared " Seine " from Portmagee. About two hours is an average passage.

    The Great Skellig—or " Skellig Michael "— has been called " the most western of Christ's fortresses in the ancient world,'' and it has the distinction of being the farthest W. of all the islands in the British group, except the Tearaght Rock. Like Mont St Michel in France and St Michael's Mount in Cornwall, the Great Skellig was formerly the site of a religious foundation dedicated to the archangel St Michael. The wellpreserved remains of the cells and chapel of this lonely monastery can be seen to this day, and it is their existence which makes the journey to the Skelligs so interesting. Compared with the splendid buildings on Mont St Michel, these plain, rough stone edifices look poor indeed. But they impress the beholder far more by their very simplicity. Legend has it that Ir, son of Milesius, was buried here ; that the ships of Daire harboured here on their way to the great Battle of Ventry ; that in 823 one of the monks named Eitgall perished here of hunger and thirst. It is also said that King Olaf Tryggoeson, of Norway, was here baptised. Giraldus Cambrensis mentions the Skellig Michael in the following passage : —

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 77

60. Staigue Fort description

    Staigue · townland · Kerry

    Staigue Fort is a celebrated stone fort standing on a commanding eminence between 400 and 500 feet over the sea, with walls 18 feet high and 12 feet thick at the base. The author describes it as one of the most interesting archaeological remains in Ireland, likely dating from the end of the heroic age and the dawn of the Christian era.

    Read the passage

    Staigue Fort is seen far up in a glen on the L. (i|^ m.). This celebrated building can be visited en route to Sneem from this point. The name Staigue is said to be derived from *' Staic," which is equivalent to " Stack '^ or *' Reek.'' This fort has been attributed to the Phoenicians — this, however, is doubtful, and it is much more likely to be of the same period, and connected with the same legendary history as the forts of similar construction to be found in other parts of Ireland — the period which saw the end of the heroic age and the dawn of the Christian era. Staigue Fort stands on a commanding eminence between 400 and 500 ft. over the sea. It lies in a sort of amphitheatre of high hills open to the sea on the S. side, and about ij m. from the main road. Its walls are 18 ft. high at the N. and S. sides, and 12 ft. thick at the base, and 7 ft. thick at the top. The "fort" is 89 ft. in diameter. No one can fail to be struck with the massive masonry and the perfect building of this fort, and it is justly regarded as one of the most interesting archaeological remains in Ireland. From the point where the road to Staigue

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 65