Name: On an Irish jaunting-car through Donegal and Connemara
Author: Samuel G. (Samuel Gamble) Bayne (1844–1924)

The Lynch Stone and the mayor's execution of his own son

Galway · city · Galway · 1493

In Market Street behind St. Nicholas's Church stands the Lynch Stone, marking the spot where Mayor James Lynch Fitzstephen, elected in 1493, condemned and hanged his own guilty son Walter with his own hand for murdering a Spanish guest out of jealousy.

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" This memorial of the stern and unbending justice of the chief magistrate of this city, James Lynch Fitzstephen, elected mayor A.D. 1493, who condemned and executed his own guilty son, Walter, on this spot, has been restored to its ancient site."
Below this is a stone with a skull and cross-bones, and this inscription:

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As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, Market Street behind St. Nicholas's Church holds the Lynch Stone. In 1493, Mayor James Lynch Fitzstephen condemned his own guilty son Walter and executed him on that spot, for murdering a Spanish guest out of jealousy. Below the memorial is a stone carved with a skull and cross-bones.

Storming of the fort at Thomond Bridge

Thomond Bridge · street · Limerick · 1691

Ginkell's army stormed the fort overlooking Thomond Bridge; fleeing Irish soldiers were trapped when the drawbridge was raised, and many drowned or were killed by the enraged English troops, with only 120 of 800 garrison escaping into Limerick.

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"In a short time the fort was stormed. The soldiers who had garrisoned it fled in confusion to the city. The Town Major, a French officer, who commanded at the Thomond Gate, afraid that the pursuers would enter with the fugitives, ordered that part of the bridge which was nearest to the city to be drawn up. Many of the Irish went headlong into the stream and perished there. Others cried for quarter, and held up their handkerchiefs in token of submission. But the conquerors were mad with rage ; their cruelty could not be immediately restrained, and no prisoners were made till the heads of corpses rose above the parapet. The garrison of the fort had consisted of about eight hundred men ; of these only one hundred and twenty escaped into Limerick." 124
LIMERICK

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As the companion tells it

Along here at Thomond Bridge in 1691, Ginkell's army stormed the fort that overlooked the crossing. The Irish garrison of about 800 fled in confusion toward the city, but the Town Major, a French officer commanding at the Thomond Gate, ordered the part of the bridge nearest the city to be drawn up, fearing the pursuers would enter with the fugitives. Many of the Irish went headlong into the stream and perished there. Others cried for quarter and held up their handkerchiefs in token of submission, but the conquerors were mad with rage and no prisoners were made till the heads of corpses rose above the parapet. Of the 800 only 120 escaped into Limerick.

Anastasia Gould builds Monkstown Castle as a surprise

Monkstown · townland · Cork · 1689

At Monkstown, Anastasia Gould, wife of John Archdeckan, built a castle to surprise her returning husband, arranging for workmen to buy food and clothing only from her; she died in 1689 and was buried in the ruined church of Teampull-Oen-Bryn, where a monument marks her memory.

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Near here is Monkstown, where Anastasia Gould, wife of John Archdeckan, while her husband was absent in a foreign land, determined to afford him a pleasant surprise by presenting him with a castle on his return. She engaged workmen and made an agreement with them that they should purchase food and clothing solely from herself. When the castle was completed, on balancing her accounts of receipt and expenditure, she found that the latter exceeded the former by fourpence. Probably this is the first example on record of truck practice on a large scale. She died in 1689, and was buried in the ground of the adjoining ruined church of Teampull-Oen-Bryn, in which is a monument to her memory. m
Queenstown extends for a considerable distance along the northern coast of the 135

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Sarsfield destroys William's siege-train near Killaloe

near Killaloe · townland · Clare · 1690

Sarsfield crossed the Shannon at Killaloe with six hundred horsemen at night to intercept William's siege-train heading to Limerick, then destroyed the cannon by filling them with powder and firing them.

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ter the fall of Athlone and Galway, Tryconnell, the Lord Lieutenant, still held Limerick as the last stronghold that King James possessed, the city having been previously unsuccessfully assaulted by the English under William at the head of about twenty-six thousand men in 1690. Lauzun, the French general, said "it could be taken with roasted apples/' and leaving it to its fate, went to Galway and embarked for France. William's army was wanting in artillery, and he awaited the arrival of a heavy siege-train from Dublin. The convoy was arrested by Sarsfield, who started at night with six hundred horsemen on the Clare side and crossed the Shannon at Killaloe. The next night he fell on them and took possession of the train. He filled the cannon with powder, buried their mouths in the earth, and, firing the whole, utterly destroyed them. More cannon arrived from Waterford, and William pressed forward the siege. On the 27th of August, a breach having been effected, a terrific assault was made, lasting four hours, in which the women of Limerick were conspicuous in the defence; the besiegers were repulsed, losing about two thou- 123
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Signing of the Treaty of Limerick on the Treaty Stone

Thomond Bridge · street · Limerick · 1691–1865

The famous Treaty of Limerick was signed on the stone near Thomond Bridge on October 3, 1691, guaranteeing religious privileges to Roman Catholics, an article never fully honoured. The Treaty Stone was later set on a pedestal in 1865.

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The result of this capture was the fall of James's power in Ireland and the signing of the famous treaty on the stone near the bridge on October 3, 169 1, the ninth article of which provided that the Roman Catholics should enjoy the same privileges of their religion as they enjoyed in the reign of Charles II. , and that William and Mary would endeavor to insure them immunity from disturbance on account of their religion. This article, however, was never carried into effect, although through no fault of William's. Large numbers of the Irish soldiers took service under France, and formed the " Irish Brigade/' famous in after years in continental wars. Sarsfield was killed at the battle of Landen (1693), and it has been estimated that in the next half century four hundred and fifty thousand Irishmen died in the French service. For seventy years after the siege, the city was maintained as a fortress, and its ramparts and gates kept in repair and guarded. In 1760 it was abandoned as such, its defences dismantled, and the city, thus freed, rapidly extended its boundaries. It has since, however, been a station for large detachments of troops, and is at the present 125
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As the companion tells it

Along here, near Thomond Bridge, the famous Treaty of Limerick was signed on a stone on October 3, 1691. The fall of James's power in Ireland led to it. The ninth article promised Roman Catholics the same religious privileges they had enjoyed under Charles the Second, and William and Mary pledged to protect them from disturbance on account of their religion. That article was never carried into effect, though the book says it was through no fault of William's. Large numbers of Irish soldiers then took service under France and formed the Irish Brigade, famous in continental wars. Sarsfield was killed at the battle of Landen in 1693, and it has been estimated that in the next half century 450,000 Irishmen died in the French service. For 70 years after the siege, the city was kept as a fortress, its ramparts and gates maintained and guarded. In 1760 it was abandoned as such and its defences dismantled, and the city rapidly extended its boundaries. The Treaty Stone itself was later set on a pedestal in 1865.

Assault on Limerick and defence by its women

Limerick · city · Limerick · 1690

On 27 August 1690, after a breach was made in the walls, a terrific assault on Limerick lasted four hours, with the women of Limerick conspicuous in the defence. The besiegers were repulsed, losing about two thousand men.

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ter the fall of Athlone and Galway, Tryconnell, the Lord Lieutenant, still held Limerick as the last stronghold that King James possessed, the city having been previously unsuccessfully assaulted by the English under William at the head of about twenty-six thousand men in 1690. Lauzun, the French general, said "it could be taken with roasted apples/' and leaving it to its fate, went to Galway and embarked for France. William's army was wanting in artillery, and he awaited the arrival of a heavy siege-train from Dublin. The convoy was arrested by Sarsfield, who started at night with six hundred horsemen on the Clare side and crossed the Shannon at Killaloe. The next night he fell on them and took possession of the train. He filled the cannon with powder, buried their mouths in the earth, and, firing the whole, utterly destroyed them. More cannon arrived from Waterford, and William pressed forward the siege. On the 27th of August, a breach having been effected, a terrific assault was made, lasting four hours, in which the women of Limerick were conspicuous in the defence; the besiegers were repulsed, losing about two thou- 123
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As the companion tells it

As you pass through Limerick, this was the last stronghold King James possessed after the fall of Athlone and Galway in 1690. Tyrconnell, the Lord Lieutenant, held the city against William's army of about 26,000 men. The French general Lauzun dismissed it, saying it "could be taken with roasted apples," and sailed for France. William's forces lacked artillery and awaited a siege train from Dublin, but Sarsfield rode out at night with 600 horsemen, crossed the Shannon at Killaloe, fell on the convoy, and destroyed the cannon by burying their mouths in the earth and firing them. More guns arrived from Waterford, and William pressed the siege. On 27 August 1690, a breach was made in the walls and a terrific assault lasted four hours. The women of Limerick were conspicuous in the defence, and the besiegers were repulsed, losing about 2,000 men.

Ballyshannon Castle and the 1597 defeat of English forces

Ballyshannon · town · Donegal · 1597

Ballyshannon Castle, belonging to the O'Donnells, was the scene of a disastrous English defeat under Sir Convers Clifford in 1597; after a three-day siege and a desperate sally by the garrison, the English retreated and lost many men attempting to cross the Erne, pursued by Hugh Roe O'Donnell.

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WITH a fresh horse we started for Ballyshannon, some fifteen miles ahead of us. The surrounding country was interesting and appeared to be prosperous, containing many fine seats, the great feature of which was their magnificent timber. Ballyshannon seems a busy town, with two thousand five hundred inhabitants. Its castle, of which scarcely any traces remain, belongs to the O'Donnells and was the scene of a disastrous defeat of the English under Sir Con vers Clifford in 1597. The castle was besieged with vigor for three days and an attempt made to sap the walls, but the garrison having made a desperate sally, the English retreated in haste, and, pursued by Hugh Roe O'Donnell, they lost a great portion of their force in an unsuccessful attempt to cross the Erne.
The two portions of the town, the lower one of which is called the Port, are connected by a bridge of twelve arches about 57

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As the companion tells it

Coming through Ballyshannon now, a busy town on the Erne in Donegal. Scarcely any traces remain of its castle, which belonged to the O'Donnells. In 1597 it was the scene of a disastrous English defeat. Sir Convers Clifford besieged the castle for three days and tried to sap the walls, but the garrison made a desperate sally, the English retreated in haste, and pursued by Hugh Roe O'Donnell they lost a great portion of their force trying to cross the river. The two parts of the town are joined by a bridge of twelve arches.

Wreck of the gunboat Wasp off Tory Island, 1884

Tory Island · townland · Donegal · 1884

The gunboat Wasp, which had been sent to enforce rent payment or evict tenants, was wrecked off the southwest coast of Tory Island on 22 September 1884, drowning all but six of its crew. Inhabitants have paid no rents since the loss of the ship.

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which is in telegraphic communication with Dunfanaghy. There are a chapel, schoolhouse, and post-office also on the island. The rock scenery of the northeast coast is very fine and characteristic; the southwest coast is low and flat, and fringed with treacherous rocks. It was here that the gunboat Wasp was wrecked on the 22d of September, 1884, and all its crew except six drowned. Fishing is the chief industry, and the islanders are good fishermen, pursuing their avocation now chiefly in Norway yawls instead of "curraghs." The Congested Districts Board have aided the inhabitants by supplying these vessels, the cost to be repaid by small instalments, also in building a curing station and teaching the people how to cure fish. Quantities of lobsters and crabs are caught, and a Sligo steamer calls once a week for fish. There is a lack of fuel, which has to be supplied from the main-land. The inhabitants have paid no rents since the loss of the Wasp, which was sent to enforce payment or evict the tenants. St. Columba, the patron saint of the place, is reported to have landed here in a curragh.
From Fallcarragh you get a fine view of Muckish, with its twenty-two hundred 38

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Sligo Castle founded 1245 and town's turbulent history

Sligo · town · Sligo · 1245

Sligo attained importance as early as 1245 as the residence of Maurice FitzGerald, Earl of Kildare, who founded a castle and monastery there; the castle played a key role in struggles between the English and Irish chiefs including the O'Conors and O'Donnells.

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Sligo attained some importance as early as 1245 as the residence of Maurice Fitz- Gerald, Earl of Kildare, who there founded a castle and monastery. The castle played an important part in the struggles of the English against the Irish chiefs in the thirteenth century and subsequently, in which the rival O'Conors and O'Donnells were mainly concerned. Sligo suffered in the massacres of 1641, when it was taken by Sir Frederick Hamilton and the abbey burned. The Parliamentary troops, under Sir Charles Coote, took it in 1645 after a battle in which the Irish were defeated and the warlike Archbishop of Tuam, Malachy 0' Kelly, was killed. In the great abbey, which is now a fine ruin, is the grave of Patrick Beolan, who did not "give in," as they say in Ireland, till he had reached the age of one hundred and forty-four.
While at Sligo we met the brother of Lieutenant Henn (owner of the Galatea, and who tried to lift the cup with her some years ago). This man is a local judge and a very pleasant and entertaining gentleman, reminding us greatly of his late brother, whose estate he inherited.

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As the companion tells it

As you pass through Sligo, you are in a town that mattered from 1245, when Maurice FitzGerald, Earl of Kildare, made it his residence and founded a castle and monastery here. That castle was central to the struggles between the English and the Irish chiefs through the thirteenth century and after, with the rival O'Conors and O'Donnells at the heart of it. Sligo suffered in the massacres of 1641, when Sir Frederick Hamilton took the town and the abbey was burned. Parliamentary troops under Sir Charles Coote seized it again in 1645, after a battle in which the Irish were defeated and the warlike Archbishop of Tuam, Malachy O'Kelly, was killed. The great abbey is now a fine ruin, and it holds the grave of Patrick Beolan, who did not, as they say in Ireland, give in until he had reached the age of 144.

Doe Castle besieged in 1608

Doe Castle · electoral division · Donegal · 1608

Doe Castle, a stronghold of the McSweenys on Sheephaven, was garrisoned for Queen Elizabeth by Captain Vaughan but betrayed to followers of Sir Cahir O'Doherty. It was besieged in 1608 and endured heavy cannon fire before surrendering.

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From Rosapenna we drove to Doe Castle, built on the shores of Sheephaven. This was a stronghold of the McSweenys, which has been, to a certain extent, modernized and rendered habitable by a late owner, who in doing so pulled down some of the walls. It consists of a lofty keep with massive walls, which enclose passages and stone stairs. It is surrounded by a "bawn," or castle-yard, defended by a high wall, with round towers at intervals. The rock on which it stands is not very high, but from its almost insulated position it was difficult to approach. It was garrisoned by Captain Vaughan for Queen Elizabeth, but was betrayed to the followers of Sir Cahir 0' Doner ty. It was besieged in 1608, and Davis says: " Being the strongest in Tyrconnell, it endured one hundred blows of the demi-cannon before it surrendered."
A little to the north, but separated by a prolongation of the marsh at the head of Sheephaven, is Ards House, owned by Alexander J. R. Stewart. This demesne is fenced with a cut -stone wall which we skirted for many miles. It is a great show

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As the companion tells it

Coming up along the electoral division of Doe Castle, on the shores of Sheephaven. This was a stronghold of the McSweenys. A late owner modernized it and made it habitable, pulling down some of the walls in the process. What stands is a lofty keep with massive walls enclosing passages and stone stairs, surrounded by a bawn, a castle-yard defended by a high wall with round towers at intervals. The rock it sits on is not very high, but its almost insulated position made it difficult to approach. It was garrisoned by Captain Vaughan for Queen Elizabeth, but was betrayed to the followers of Sir Cahir O'Doherty. It was besieged in 1608. Davis says of it, 'Being the strongest in Tyrconnell, it endured one hundred blows of the demi-cannon before it surrendered.' One hundred blows of the demi-cannon, and only then did it fall.

Lord George Hill's improvements at Gweedore and the rundale system

near Gweedore · locality · Donegal · 1838–1879

Lord George Hill settled at Gweedore in 1838, purchasing 23,000 acres in the parish of Tullaghobegly which he found in a state of famine, pestilence, and want so severe it prompted a parliamentary inquiry. He overcame the confused 'rundale' land system, built schools, a church, roads, a store at Bunbeg, and the Gweedore Hotel.

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The name of Lord George Hill, the late proprietor of the estate, is so thoroughly identified with that of Gweedore that it will not be amiss to retail a few facts concerning him. He first settled in this part of the country in 1838, purchasing twentythree thousand acres in the parish of Tullaghobegly, which he found in a state of distress and want so great that it became the subject of a parliamentary inquiry. Although there appeared to have been a considerable amount of exaggeration in the statements made, enough remained to show that famine, pestilence, and ignorance were lamentably prevalent. The prospects of the landlord were far from encouraging, on account of the stony nature of the ground, the severity of the climate, and the difficulty of collecting his rent; but, more than all, the extraordinary though miserable system of rundale, which was universal throughout the district. By this arrangement a parcel of land was divided and subdivided into an incredible number of small holdings, in which the tenant very likely held his proportion or share in thirty or forty different places, which had no fences or walls whatever to mark them. The utter confusion 4i
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As the companion tells it

As you pass through Gweedore, you are in a place shaped by Lord George Hill. He arrived in 1838 and bought 23,000 acres in the parish of Tullaghobegly. What he found was so grim that famine, pestilence, and ignorance were, in the source's words, lamentably prevalent, and the condition of the people had already become the subject of a parliamentary inquiry. The land was stony, the climate severe, and rent was hard to collect, but the greatest obstacle was the rundale system. Under that arrangement a single holding might be scattered across 30 or 40 small patches with no fences or walls to mark them. Hill set about overcoming the confusion, and over the following decades he built schools, a church, roads, a store at Bunbeg, and the Gweedore Hotel.

Salmon leap and fishery at Ballyshannon Falls

Ballyshannon · town · Donegal

Below Ballyshannon's bridge lie the celebrated falls where salmon returning upriver in spring leap up through gaps between traps with funnel-shaped entrances; the valuable fishery near the island of Inis-Saimer was owned by Messrs. Moore & Alexander.

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four hundred yards above the celebrated falls, where an enormous body of water is precipitated over a cliff some thirty feet high and ten feet above high-water, with a noise that is perfectly deafening. This is the scene of the "salmon -leap." The salmon that come down the river in the autumn return again in the spring months, and this can only be accomplished by ascending the falls. Traps with funnelshaped entrances are placed in different parts of the falls, in which the salmon are caught, and taken out for market as required. Between the traps are intervals through which the fish can reach the top of the falls by leaping, and as at low water the spring is about sixteen feet, the scene is singularly interesting. Below the falls is the island of Inis-Saimer, on which are buildings connected with the fishery. The fishery is very valuable, and is owned by Messrs. Moore & Alexander.
On the bridge is a tablet to William Allingham (1824- 1889), a native of Ballyshannon. I give Allingham's own description of his home; it can hardly be surpassed in the English language for simple, graceful, and yet direct diction. I also quote a few lines from a poem he wrote 58

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As the companion tells it

As you pass through Ballyshannon, below the bridge you have the celebrated falls. An enormous body of water is precipitated over a cliff some 30 feet high, with a noise that is perfectly deafening. This is the scene of the salmon leap. The salmon that come down the river in the autumn return again in the spring months, and they can only get back up by ascending the falls. Traps with funnel-shaped entrances are placed in different parts of the falls, in which the salmon are caught and taken out for market as required. Between the traps are intervals through which the fish can reach the top by leaping, and at low water the spring is about 16 feet, making the scene singularly interesting. Below the falls is the island of Inis-Saimer, with buildings connected to the fishery. The fishery is very valuable, and is owned by Messrs. Moore & Alexander. On the bridge is a tablet to William Allingham, a native of Ballyshannon, born 1824 and died 1889.

The Annals of the Four Masters compiled near Donegal Abbey

Donegal · town · Donegal · 1632–1636

Between 1632 and 1636, either in the monastery or a nearby building, the famous Annals of Donegal (Annals of the Four Masters) were compiled by Michael and Cucogry O'Clery, Fearfeasa O'Mulconry, and Cucogry O'Duigenan, covering nearly four thousand years of Irish history.

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Either in the monastery or in some building near it were compiled, between 1632 and 1636, the famous Annals of Donegal, better known under the title of the Annals of the Four Masters— Michael and Cucogry O'Clery, Fearfeasa O'Mulconry, and Cucogry O'Duigenan. The object of this compilation was to detail the history of Ireland up to the time in which they lived, including all local events, such as the foundation and destruction of churches and castles, the deaths of re- 55
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Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you come through Donegal, this is the town where, between 1632 and 1636, the famous Annals of the Four Masters were compiled, either in the monastery or a building near it. Michael and Cucogry O'Clery, Fearfeasa O'Mulconry, and Cucogry O'Duigenan set out to detail the history of Ireland up to their own time, covering nearly four thousand years and including local events such as the foundation and destruction of churches and castles.

The Cross of Cong and its history

Cong · town · Mayo

The famous Cross of Cong, made for Tuam, was thought to have been brought to Cong by Roderic O'Conor. It was found by Rev. P. Prendergast in a chest in the village and later purchased by Professor MacCullagh for the Royal Irish Academy.

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The Cross of Cong, which was made for Tuam, was brought here, it is thought, by Roderic O'Conor. It measures two and a half feet high, one foot six and three-quarter inches across arms, and one and three-quarter inches thick. It is made of oak plated with copper, and covered with the most beautiful gold tracery of Celtic pattern. In the centre of the arms is a large crystal; thirteen of the original eighteen jewels remain, set along the edges of shaft and arms, while eleven of those which were set down the centre of arms and shaft and round the crystal are lost. It was found by the Rev. P. Prendergast early in the present century in a chest in the village, and after his death it was purchased by Professor MacCullagh for one hundred guineas, and presented to the Royal Irish Academy. 68
BALLINROBE TO LEENANE

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The Tribes of Galway by-law of 1518

Galway · city · Galway · 1518

A 1518 by-law of Galway forbade townspeople from hosting Burkes, MacWilliams, Kellies or other septs without licence, and forbade any O' or Mac from swaggering through the streets of Galway, reflecting the town's guarded separation from native Irish.

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ors. There were thirteen of these socalled tribes, the descendants of some of which, as Blake, Lynch, Bodkin, Browne, Joyce, Kirwan, Morris, Skerrett, D'Arcy, Ffrench, Martin, may still be found among its citizens, who in those days carefully guarded themselves from any intercourse with the native Irish. In one of the by-laws, of date of 1 51 8, it is enacted "that no man of this towne shall oste or receive into their housses at Christemas, Easter, nor no feaste elles, any of the Burkes, MacWilliams, the Kellies, nor no cepte elles, withoute license of the mayor and councill, on payn to forfeit 5Z., that neither 0' nor Mac shalle strutte ne swaggere thro' the streetes of Gallway."
The following singular inscription was formerly to be seen over the west gate:

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, you are in a town that once kept itself sharply apart from the native Irish around it. There were thirteen so-called tribes here, families like Blake, Lynch, Bodkin, Browne, Joyce, Kirwan, Morris, Skerrett, D'Arcy, Ffrench and Martin, and their descendants are still among its citizens. In 1518 a by-law enacted that no man of the town shall receive into their houses at Christmas, Easter, or any other feast, any of the Burkes, MacWilliams, the Kellies, or any other sept, without licence of the mayor and council, on pain of forfeiting 5 pounds. It further ordered that neither O' nor Mac shall strut or swagger through the streets of Galway.

Cannonball found in Cork cathedral tower from 1690 siege

Cork · city · Cork · 1690–1864

During the 1690 siege of Cork, English troops attacked the south fort from the cathedral tower, damaging it so badly it was demolished in 1734. A cannon-ball fired during the siege was later found forty feet up in the tower and is displayed in the cathedral.

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see. In 1690, at the siege of Cork, a detachment of English troops took possession of the cathedral and attacked the south fort from the tower; the cathedral was so much damaged that it was taken down in 1734 and another erected. With the exception of the tower, which was believed to have formed part of the old church, it was a modern Doric building, with a stumpy spire of white limestone. The mode in which the funds were raised for its erection was the levying of a tax on all the coal imported for five years. This building stood until 1864, when it was taken down in order to erect the present structure upon its site. A cannon-ball, fired during the siege of 1690, was found in the tower, forty feet from the ground, and is now on a bracket within the cathedral. In laying the foundations, three distinct burial-places were found, one above the other, and the human remains found exhibited remarkable racial peculiarities.
St. Anne Shandon Church is at the foot of Church Street, off Shandon Street, at the north side of the city; it was built in 1722, and is remarkable for its extraordinary tower, one hundred and twenty feet 133

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As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, the cathedral here carries a mark of the siege of 1690. That year English troops took possession of the cathedral and attacked the south fort from the tower. The building was so badly damaged it was taken down in 1734 and a new one raised, paid for by a tax on all coal imported for five years. That replacement stood until 1864, when it too was taken down for the present structure. A cannon-ball fired during the siege was later found in the tower, forty feet from the ground, and sits now on a bracket within the cathedral. When they laid the foundations, they came upon three distinct burial-places, one above the other, and the human remains showed what the book calls remarkable racial peculiarities.

Ginkell's siege of Galway after Aughrim, 1691

Galway · city · Galway · 1691

A week after the Battle of Aughrim, on 19 July 1691, Ginkell laid siege to Galway with fourteen thousand men; two days later the town surrendered with a safe-conduct for the garrison to Limerick and a pardon for the inhabitants.

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On July 19, 1 69 1, a week after the battle of Aughrim, Ginkell with fourteen thousand men laid siege to it. Two days later the town surrendered, the garrison being permitted to evacuate it with a safeconduct to Limerick and a pardon to the inhabitants.
Since the middle of the last century, the fortifications have gone fast to decay, and now nothing remains but a fragment near the quay and a massive archway leading to Spanish Place. There is also a square bastion of great thickness in Francis Street, and a portion of wall with a round-headed, blocked arch. Within the last century the town has so much increased as to cover more than double the space formerly occupied within the walls. Some of the houses are built Spanish fashion, with a small court in the centre and an arched gateway leading into the street. The most striking specimen of domestic architecture is Lynch's Mansion, a large, square building at the corner of Shop and Abbeygate 99

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As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, you are moving through a city that endured a famous siege. On the 19th of July 1691, a week after the Battle of Aughrim, Ginkell brought fourteen thousand men and laid siege to the town. Two days later it surrendered. The garrison was allowed to march out under safe conduct to Limerick, and the inhabitants received a pardon. The fortifications that once ringed Galway have since gone fast to decay. A fragment near the quay and a massive archway leading to Spanish Place still stand. A square bastion of great thickness remains in Francis Street, along with a portion of wall bearing a round-headed, blocked arch. Within the last century the town has more than doubled the space it once occupied within its walls. Some houses are built in Spanish fashion, with a small central court and an arched gateway opening onto the street. The most striking is Lynch's Mansion, a large square building at the corner of Shop and Abbeygate.

Inspector Martin clubbed to death near Bunbeg during Gweedore evictions

Bunbeg · town · Donegal · 1889

On the road near Bunbeg, Inspector Martin was clubbed to death while executing a warrant for the arrest of the Rev. James McFadden, P.P., in February 1889, in connection with the Gweedore evictions.

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We now took the shore -road through a district known as Cloughaneely, where English is rarely spoken and we had to make our way by signs, spending a few minutes en route at a national school and hearing them teach the children both Irish and English. Continuing, we passed close to Bloody Foreland, a head one thousand and fifty feet high, so called because of its ruddy color. Arriving at Bunbeg, we stopped to feed the horse and take some lunch ourselves, and then "made play" for the Gweedore Hotel. Our road took us past the spot where Inspector Martin was clubbed to death when executing a warrant for the arrest of the Rev. James McFadden, P. P., in February, 1889, m connection with the Gweedore evictions. 39
GWEEDORE TO GLENTIES

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You are coming through Bunbeg now. Back in February 1889, the road near here was where Inspector Martin was clubbed to death while executing a warrant for the arrest of the Reverend James McFadden, in connection with the Gweedore evictions. This is Cloughaneely country, where the book notes that English was rarely spoken and travellers had to make themselves understood by signs.

The Great Blunder famine relief canal

Lough Mask · lake or lakes · Galway · 1845–1852

During the Irish famine, a canal was dug to connect Loughs Mask and Corrib to provide work relief, but the porous rocky bed absorbed the water and the project failed utterly, becoming known as 'The Great Blunder.'

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During the Irish famine an attempt was made to dig a canal connecting the lakes, so as to give the people something to do, and an enormous amount of money was sunk in the project. The rocky bed absorbed the water, however, as fast as it flowed in, and the enterprise proved an utter failure. Every visitor asks what it is when he sees it. It is called "The Great Blunder."
LEENANE TO RECESS

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

St. Enda founds monasteries on Aranmore

Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 400–499

St. Enda (Eaney or Endeus) introduced Christianity to Aran in the fifth century, obtaining a grant of the islands from Aengus, king of Munster, and founded ten religious establishments. The island became renowned for learning and asceticism, earning the name Ara-Naoimh, or Ara of the Saints.

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to be found in the accounts of the battle of Muireadh, in which the Firbolgs, having been defeated by the Danann, were driven for refuge into Aran and other islands on the Irish coast, as well as into the western islands of Scotland. Christianity was introduced in the fifth century by St. Enda, Eaney, or Endeus, who obtained a grant of the islands from Aengus, the Christian king of Munster, and founded ten religious establishments. Aranmore speedily obtained a world-wide renown for learning, piety, and asceticism, and "many hundreds of holy men from other parts of Ireland and foreign countries constantly resorted to it to study the sacred scriptures and to learn and practise the rigid austerities of a hermit's life"; in consequence of which the island was distinguished by the name of "Ara- Naoimh," or Ara of the Saints.
A century ago a curious custom prevailed in these islands. When a body was being carried to the grave, a convenient spot was selected at which to rest the pall-bearers; here the funeral procession came to a halt, generally about one hundred yards from the road. This spot was afterwards used as a site for a monument, erect- 8 113

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

St. Fin Barre founds Cork's cathedral church

Cork · city · Cork · 600–1089

St. Fin Barre, born near Bandon and died at Cloyne in 630, founded a religious establishment on the south bank of the Lee that became the nucleus of the city of Cork; he was buried there and his relics later enshrined in silver, but these were carried off when Dermot O'Brien plundered the city in 1089.

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Numerous monastic establishments were founded in early times, nearly all traces of which, as well as of its walls and castles, have been swept away. In the southwestern district of the city is the old cathedral, small and very unlike what a cathedral should be. St. Fin Barre, the founder of the cathedral, was born in the neighborhood of Bandon, and died at Cloyne in 630. His first religious establishment was in an island in Lough Gouganebarra, but about the beginning of the seventh century he founded another on the south bank of the Lee, which became the nucleus of the city of Cork. He was buried here in his own church, and his bones were subsequently enshrined in a silver case; but these relics were carried away by Dermot O'Brien when he plundered the city in 1089. There is little of general interest in the subsequent history of the 132
CORK AND QUEENSTOWN

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As the road carries you through Cork, you're passing the city that grew from a single church. St. Fin Barre, born near Bandon, founded a religious establishment on the south bank of the Lee around the beginning of the seventh century, and it became the nucleus of the city itself. He died at Cloyne in 630 and was buried here in his own church. His bones were later enshrined in a silver case, but those relics were carried off when Dermot O'Brien plundered the city in 1089. The old cathedral stands in the southwestern district, small and very unlike what a cathedral should be.

Mitchell Henry and the building of Kylemore Castle

Kylemore · townland · Galway · 1860–1862

Mitchell Henry, a wealthy linen merchant and MP for Galway, purchased fourteen thousand acres in Connemara and around forty years before the author's visit began building Kylemore Castle, planting rare trees and creating gardens using the mild Gulf Stream climate.

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Mr. Henry was a linen merchant, with houses in Belfast and Manchester; he made a fortune, purchased fourteen thousand acres of land in Connemara to give himself a political foothold, and in consequence became M. P. for Galway, which position he retained for six years. About forty years ago he began the construction of Kylemore, selecting as a site a valley between very high mountains, 75
ON AN IRISH JAUNTING-CAR

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Castle of Arkyn holds out against Parliamentary army

Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1651–1652

The Marquis of Clanricarde fortified the Castle of Arkyn, stronghold of the O'Briens, which held out against the Parliamentary army for more than a year after the surrender of Galway. Cromwell's soldiers later demolished the great church of St. Enda to provide materials for repairing the fort.

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island, the soldiers of Cromwell demolished the great church of St. Enda to furnish materials for the repair of a strong fort. On the surrender of Galway in 1691 Aran was garrisoned, and remained so for many years. Aran gives the title of Earl to the Gore family.
At his home we met Father Farragher, a genial gentleman and the parish priest of Kilronan, and he gave us a great deal of interesting information concerning the history of and life on these islands, which are historic to a degree rarely met with, and with which he was thoroughly familiar. We returned late in the evening by steamer to Galway.

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Gartan Lough: birthplace of St. Columba and St. Patrick's pilgrimage

near Gartan Lough or Lough Beagh South · lake or lakes · Donegal · 450

Gartan Lough is celebrated as the birthplace of St. Columba, marked by a ruined chapel built on the spot. St. Patrick made a pilgrimage to this place in 450 A.D.

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Gartan Lough is seen a few miles to the south. It is celebrated for its fine views and its fishing, and as the birthplace of St. Columba, who was born just where a ruined chapel now stands and which was originally erected, it is said, to mark the spot. St. Patrick made a pilgrimage to this place in 450 A.D. 32
DUNFANAGHY TO FALLCARRAGH

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Legend of the preserved dead on Inishglora

near Inishglora · townland · Mayo

Off the Mullet peninsula, the island of Inishglora was said to have extraordinary preserving influences such that the dead's nails and hair continued to grow, allowing descendants for ten generations to pare and clip them.

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the horizon. Off the Mullet are numerous islands, of which the principal are Inishkeeragh and Inishglora, where, according to some, the dead are subject to such extraordinary and preserving influences that their nails and hair grow as in life, "so that their descendants to the tenth generation can come and with pious care pare the one and clip the other. " The eagle still haunts these cliffs, and the wild goat feeds almost secure in his last haunts on these islands.
It was growing late, and, as we had five miles of walking before us, we retraced our steps down the mountain to Keem Bay. The trials of that descent have not been written in sand — they will never be forgotten. In our exhausted condition we reeled and staggered from hummock to hummock, floundered through the soggy bog like a pair of stranded seals, sat down in the heather for a few gasps of breath when we could go on no longer. We guyed each other, guyed the Emerald Isle and its people; we sneered at the story of George's hatchet, and concluded that, after all, King Edward's job was not what it was cracked up to be — anything to

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Siege of Cork by Marlborough and the Duke of Wurtemburg

Cork · city · Cork · 1690

William III's army under Marlborough and the Duke of Wurtemburg besieged Cork; the garrison surrendered after holding out five days, and the Duke of Grafton was killed in the siege.

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A noticeable event in its history was the siege by William III.'s army under Marlborough and the Duke of Wurtemburg, when the garrison surrendered after holding out five days; the Duke of Grafton was killed on this occasion.
Numerous monastic establishments were founded in early times, nearly all traces of which, as well as of its walls and castles, have been swept away. In the southwestern district of the city is the old cathedral, small and very unlike what a cathedral should be. St. Fin Barre, the founder of the cathedral, was born in the neighborhood of Bandon, and died at Cloyne in 630. His first religious establishment was in an island in Lough Gouganebarra, but about the beginning of the seventh century he founded another on the south bank of the Lee, which became the nucleus of the city of Cork. He was buried here in his own church, and his bones were subsequently enshrined in a silver case; but these relics were carried away by Dermot O'Brien when he plundered the city in 1089. There is little of general interest in the subsequent history of the 132

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, the city holds a story from 1690. William the Third's army, under Marlborough and the Duke of Wurtemburg, besieged the city and the garrison held out for five days before surrendering. The Duke of Grafton was killed during the siege. Nearly all traces of Cork's old walls and castles have been swept away. In the southwestern district of the city stands the old cathedral, small and very unlike what a cathedral should be. Its founder, St. Fin Barre, was born near Bandon and died at Cloyne in 630. His first religious establishment was on an island in Lough Gouganebarra, but around the beginning of the seventh century he founded another on the south bank of the Lee, which became the nucleus of Cork itself. He was buried in his own church and his bones were later enshrined in a silver case, but Dermot O'Brien carried those relics away when he plundered the city in 1089.

Funeral rest-stone monuments on Aran

Kilronan · village · Galway · 1802–1902

A century-old custom on the Aran Islands saw funeral processions halt at a chosen spot before reaching the graveyard, and a monument would later be erected there by the family, often bearing carved statuary and inscriptions. A row of these monuments could be seen along the road from Kilronan to Dun Aengus.

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ed by husband, wife, or family, as the case might be, which for the most part took the place of a monument in the graveyard. When the relatives possessed means these memorials became quite imposing, bearing carved statuary and having a short history of the dead inscribed on them, winding up with a formula invoking a blessing on the souls of the departed. We left the car to inspect a long row of these stones fronting on the main road from Kilronan to Dun Aengus. The quaint things said in praise of the dead were quite interesting.
Many of the natives on Thursday and Friday in Holy Week still make a pilgrimage round Aranmore, a distance of twenty miles, performing religious exercises at each church in the circuit.

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Achill Head and Croaghaun Mountain cliffs

near Achill Head · promontory · Mayo

Achill Head and the adjoining Croaghaun Mountain are described as the highest marine cliffs in existence, poised above the Atlantic at a sixty-degree angle with dramatic precipices nearly 1,950 feet high.

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When we awoke we crawled on allfours to the edge of the head and looked over, and we shall never forget the sight that greeted our eyes! Achill Head and Croaghaun Mountain, adjoining it, have the reputation of being the highest marine cliffs in existence. They are poised above the Atlantic at an angle of sixty degrees, and the particular point on which we lay far overhung the ocean. Here lightning-splintered pinnacles shoot from the mass; savage, titanic rocks lie on the face of the two mountains in wild confusion, scarred and rent from top to bottom, and the blue waters surge and break at their base in restless confusion, throwing up the spray to great heights. Then 86
ACHILL ISLAND

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Fort erected by Connaught men in 1124

Galway · city · Galway · 1124

According to the Four Masters, nothing definite is known of Galway until 1124, when a fort was erected there by the Connaught men, later thrice demolished by Munster men and rebuilt.

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the Gallaeci of Spain, with whom the town carried on an extensive trade; and by others, again, from the Gaels, or foreign merchants, by whom it was occupied. Nothing is definitely known of Galway until 1 124, when, according to the "Four Masters/' a fort was erected there by the Connaught men. This was thrice demolished by the Munster men, and as often rebuilt. In 1226, Richard de Burgo was granted the country of Connaught, and, having crushed the O'Connors, established his power in the West. He took Galway in 1232, enlarged the castle, and made it his residence. From this time Galway became a flourishing English colony. Among the new settlers was a number of families whose descendants are known to this day under the general appellation of "the Tribes of Galway/' an expression first invented by Cromwell's forces as a term of reproach against the natives of the town for their singular friendship and attachment to one another during the time of their unparalleled troubles and persecutions, but which the latter afterwards adopted as an honorable mark of distinction between themselves and their cruel oppress-
96

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, the earliest firm date in its story is 1124. According to the Four Masters, that was the year the Connaught men erected a fort here. The Munster men demolished it three times, and each time it was rebuilt. In 1226, Richard de Burgo was granted the country of Connaught. Having crushed the O'Connors, he established his power in the West, took Galway in 1232, enlarged the castle, and made it his residence. From that point Galway became a flourishing English colony. Among the settlers were families whose descendants are still known as the Tribes of Galway. The expression was first coined by Cromwell's forces as a term of reproach against the townspeople for their friendship and attachment to one another during their troubles and persecutions. The people of Galway later adopted it as an honourable mark of distinction between themselves and their oppressors.

St. Anne Shandon Church and its bells

near Shandon · locality · Cork · 1722–1750

St. Anne Shandon Church, built in 1722, has an extraordinary tower faced with red stone and limestone, containing bells cast at Gloucester in 1750 and immortalized in the famous lyric by Father Prout, who is buried in the churchyard.

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They bear the inscription : " We were all cast at Gloucester, in England. — Abel Rudhall, 1750." " Father Prout " is buried in the church-yard of Shandon. Shandon derives its name from Seandun (old fort) ; the name was given to the church of St. Mary, from its near neighborhood to Shandon Castle, an old seat of the Barrvs.
On the way down to Queenstown we passed Passage West, a pretty village embosomed in woods, and a considerable place of call, both for travelers and others bound up and down the river. "Father Prout " has sung its praises: 134

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Up here in Shandon, you are passing through a place whose name comes from Seandun, meaning old fort. The church of St. Anne, built in 1722, has a tower faced with red stone and limestone. Its bells bear the inscription: "We were all cast at Gloucester, in England. Abel Rudhall, 1750." Father Prout, who made these bells famous in lyric, is buried in the churchyard. The name Shandon was originally given to the church of St. Mary, from its near neighborhood to Shandon Castle, an old seat of the Barrys.

The ruined house and store of Captain Boycott at Keem Bay

Keem Bay · bay · Mayo

Near the shore at Keem Bay on Achill Island, the author visited the ruined house and store of Captain Boycott, the man whose name gave rise to the English word 'boycott,' noting he had many friends among the local peasantry despite his fate.

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Near the shore we visited the house and store of Captain Boycott, both in ruins. This is the gentleman who gave us a new word for our vocabulary. Notwithstanding his fate, he had many warm friends among the peasantry.
We started climbing again by following the bed of a brawling stream, and adhered to it until it turned into a rivulet. Most Irish mountains are formed by a series of benches, and our plan was to climb briskly till we reached a bench and there make a recovery for the next assault. As we rose in the air we felt our clothing becoming burdensome, and we gave one article after another to the gillies, so that by the time we reached the top our wardrobes were quite elementary. It seemed to us that all the benches in

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Richard de Burgo takes Galway castle, 1232

Galway · city · Galway · 1226–1232

Richard de Burgo, granted the country of Connaught in 1226, crushed the O'Connors and established power in the West, taking Galway in 1232, enlarging the castle and making it his residence.

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the Gallaeci of Spain, with whom the town carried on an extensive trade; and by others, again, from the Gaels, or foreign merchants, by whom it was occupied. Nothing is definitely known of Galway until 1 124, when, according to the "Four Masters/' a fort was erected there by the Connaught men. This was thrice demolished by the Munster men, and as often rebuilt. In 1226, Richard de Burgo was granted the country of Connaught, and, having crushed the O'Connors, established his power in the West. He took Galway in 1232, enlarged the castle, and made it his residence. From this time Galway became a flourishing English colony. Among the new settlers was a number of families whose descendants are known to this day under the general appellation of "the Tribes of Galway/' an expression first invented by Cromwell's forces as a term of reproach against the natives of the town for their singular friendship and attachment to one another during the time of their unparalleled troubles and persecutions, but which the latter afterwards adopted as an honorable mark of distinction between themselves and their cruel oppress-
96

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, you're moving through a place with a deep Norman past. Richard de Burgo was granted the country of Connaught in 1226, crushed the O'Connors, and established his power in the West. He took Galway in 1232, enlarged the castle, and made it his residence. From that time Galway became a flourishing English colony. Among the new settlers were families whose descendants came to be known as "the Tribes of Galway," an expression first coined by Cromwell's forces as a term of reproach against the townspeople for their singular friendship and attachment to one another during their troubles and persecutions. The townspeople later adopted the name as an honourable mark of distinction between themselves and their oppressors.

Inscription against the O'Flahertys over Galway's west gate

Galway · city · Galway

A singular inscription formerly stood over the west gate of Galway, praying for deliverance from the fury of the O'Flahertys, reflecting old conflicts between the walled town and the native Irish septs.

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" From the fury of the 0' Flaherties Good Lord deliver us."
Owing to its excellent situation, Gal way enjoyed for centuries the monopoly of the trade with Spain, whence it received large quantities of wine, salt, etc., which caused so much personal intercourse that the town became impressed to a cer- 7 97

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Galway was a walled town, and over its west gate stood an inscription reading, "From the fury of the O'Flaherties, Good Lord deliver us." The town enjoyed a trade monopoly with Spain for centuries, bringing in wine and salt, and the constant contact left its mark on the place.

Slieve League's ancient oratory of St. Hugh McBreacon

Slieve League · mountain or mountain range · Donegal

At the very summit of Slieve League, near the dramatic cliffs and the ledge called the 'One Man's Path,' stand the remains of an ancient oratory dedicated to St. Hugh McBreacon.

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ing the cliffs the whole way. Near the summit the escarpment cuts off the land slope so suddenly as to leave only a sharp edge with a fearful precipice of above fifteen hundred feet on the side towards the sea, and a steep slope on the landward side. This ledge is termed the " One Man's Path/' and is looked on by the inhabitants of the neighborhood in the same light as the Striding Edge of Helvellyn, or the Bwlch - y - Maen of Snowdon. There is a narrow track or ledge on the land slope a little below this edge, facetiously called "The Old Man's Path" by the guides. At the very summit are the remains of the ancient oratory of St. Hugh McBreacon. The view is wonderfully fine; southward is the whole coast of Sligo and Mayo, from Benbulbin to the Stags of Broadhaven; while farther in the distance are faintly seen Nephin, near Ballina, and Croagh Patrick Mountain at Westport. Northward is a perfect sea of Donegal mountains, reaching as far as Slieve Snaght and Errigal, with all the intervening ranges near Ardara, Glenties, and Dunloe.
Coming down was almost as bad as going up had been, but we finally reached our 5i

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Tory Island round tower and monastic ruins

Tory Island · townland · Donegal

Tory Island contains a portion of a round tower built of undressed red granite boulders, along with ruins of two churches from a monastery founded by St. Columba, and a peculiar tau-cross.

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It contains a portion of a round tower, built of undressed boulders of red granite. It was never more than about forty feet in height, is seventeen feet two inches in diameter, and the walls at the base are four feet three inches thick; the doorway is five and a half feet high and is eight feet from the ground. There are also ruins of two churches (a monastery having been founded here by St. Columba), and a peculiar tau- cross. On the northwest end of the island is a fine light-house, illumined by gas, and it has also a fog-siren and a group-flashing light; it stands a hundred and thirty feet above high-water. Near it is the new signal station of Lloyd's, 37
ON AN IRISH JAUNTING-CAR

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

King John's Castle and Thomond Bridge fortifications

near King John's Castle · castle · Louth · 1751–1842

King John's Castle, one of the finest Norman fortresses in the kingdom, guarded the entrance from Thomond Gate along with a fort, with walls ten feet thick and drum towers fifty feet in diameter. It was converted into barracks in 1751 and the constableship abolished in 1842.

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The Shannon is crossed by three important bridges, of which the Thomond Bridge, rebuilt in 1839, claims priority from its ancient associations. It connects English Town with the County Clare, the entrance from which, through Thomond Gate, was protected by the fort mentioned above and King John's Castle. It is one of the finest Norman fortresses in the kingdom, and has a river front of about two hundred feet, flanked by two massive drum towers fifty feet in diameter; the walls are of great strength, being ten feet thick. The northern tower is the most ancient, and from the bridge traces of the cannonading it received in its various sieges can be clearly seen. It still retains its ancient gateway, but the modern entrance is from Nicholas Street. Its venerable appearance is marred by the addition of the modern roofs and buildings of the barracks into which the interior was converted in 1 751. The constableship of the Castle was only abolished in 1842. The "Treaty Stone," on which the famous treaty was signed in 1691, is at the western end of the bridge; 126
LIMERICK

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William Allingham memorial tablet on Ballyshannon bridge

Ballyshannon · town · Donegal · 1824–1889

A tablet to poet William Allingham (1824-1889), a native of Ballyshannon, stands on the town's bridge; the author quotes Allingham's own vivid description of his hometown and lines from his poem written before sailing for America.

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On the bridge is a tablet to William Allingham (1824- 1889), a native of Ballyshannon. I give Allingham's own description of his home; it can hardly be surpassed in the English language for simple, graceful, and yet direct diction. I also quote a few lines from a poem he wrote 58
BALLYSHANNON TO SLIGO

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Ballyshannon, there is a tablet on the bridge to the poet William Allingham, who was born here in 1824 and died in 1889. The author calls Allingham's own description of his hometown hard to surpass for simple, graceful, and direct diction, and quotes lines from a poem he wrote before sailing for America.

Carlyle's 1849 visit to Lord Hill at Gweedore

near Gweedore · locality · Donegal · 1849

Thomas Carlyle visited Lord George Hill at Gweedore in 1849 and afterwards described his host as a handsome, grave-smiling man with a low, cooing voice and military composure, a man loved at first sight.

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and the hopelessness of each tenant's being able to know his own land, much less to plant or look after it, may well be imagined. And not only to land was this system applied, but also to portable property. With much perseverance and many struggles, Lord George Hill gradually changed the face of things. He overcame and altered the rundale system, improved the land, built schools, a church, and a large store at Bunbeg, made roads, established a post-office, and, what is perhaps of more importance to the traveler, a hotel. He took a direct and personal interest in the good management of the hotel and in the comfort of the guests who patronized it, frequently stopping at the house himself, dining and spending the evening with them. Since his death, in 1879, the hotel has kept up its traditional reputation for comfort and general good management. Carlyle visited Lord Hill at Gweedore in 1849, and this is the way in which he described his host afterwards: "A handsome, grave-smiling man of fifty or more; thick, grizzled hair; elegant nose; low, cooing voice; military composure and absence of loquacity; a man you love at first sight." This was indeed high praise 42
GWEEDORE TO GLENTIES

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Up ahead, the road takes you through Gweedore in Donegal. In 1849 Thomas Carlyle came here to visit Lord George Hill, the landlord who had spent years changing the face of this country. Hill had overcome the old rundale system, improved the land, built schools, a church, a large store at Bunbeg, made roads, and set up a post-office and a hotel. Carlyle described his host afterwards as "a handsome, grave-smiling man of fifty or more; thick, grizzled hair; elegant nose; low, cooing voice; military composure and absence of loquacity; a man you love at first sight." Hill took a direct and personal interest in the comfort of guests at his hotel, often stopping there himself to dine and spend the evening with them. He died in 1879, and the hotel kept up its reputation after his death.

Kilronan village on Aranmore, Firbolg descendants

Kilronan · village · Galway

The village of Kilronan on Aranmore, the largest of the Aran Islands, is home to fisherfolk said to descend from the Firbolgs, retaining distinctive dress including the rawhide 'pampootie' shoe suited to the islands' rocks.

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We again got into a curragh, boarded the steamer, and were under way in a trice for Aranmore, the largest island of the group, where we landed an hour later at a fine pier built by the Congested Districts Board. The village is called Kilronan, and the inhabitants live by fishing. They are a simple and peculiar people, descended from the Firbolgs, retaining some parts of the dress and many of the customs of that race. Their footwear consists of a coarse stocking, over which they wear a tight -fitting slipper of raw cowhide with the hair on it, called a "pampootie." This is a special shoe for use on the smooth and slippery rocks of these islands. They also wear a snug, homespun flannel jacket and short " pants," the whole making an exceedingly pictur- 108
o

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Holy Week pilgrimage around Aranmore

Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

Natives of the Aran Islands still made a pilgrimage around Aranmore on Thursday and Friday of Holy Week, a distance of twenty miles, performing religious exercises at each church along the circuit.

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Many of the natives on Thursday and Friday in Holy Week still make a pilgrimage round Aranmore, a distance of twenty miles, performing religious exercises at each church in the circuit.
The O'Briens were lords of Aran from an early period, but were driven out by the O'Flaherties of Iar Connaught, who in turn were driven out by the English in 1587. In 1651, the Marquis of Clanricarde fortified the Castle of Arkyn, the stronghold of the O'Briens, which held out against the Parliamentary army for more than a year after the surrender of Galway; but on the occupation of the 114

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Lord Palmerston's harbor works near Sligo in 1842

Sligo · town · Sligo · 1842

Lord Palmerston took great interest in this part of the country, laying out plantations in 1842 and building a harbor at a cost of over £20,000, which the author saw from the road near Sligo.

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Lord Palmerston took a great interest in this part of the country, laying out plantations in 1842 and building a harbor, which we saw from the car. It cost him over £20,000.
While riding along we noticed a tower on a distant hill, and said to the driver, "Is that a round tower?" "Yis, sur." "Are you sure it's round?" "Yis, sur, I am; it's square it is."

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Sligo, Lord Palmerston's harbor works were visible from the road. He took a great interest in this part of the country, laying out plantations in 1842 and building a harbor that cost him over £20,000. The author of the old account spotted a tower on a distant hill and asked the driver if it was a round tower. The driver said it was — then added, "it's square it is."

West Bridge, Galway, ancient structure of 1342

Galway · city · Galway · 1342

The West Bridge in Galway is described as a very ancient structure dating from 1342, which formerly had two tower gateways that have since disappeared.

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Galway is situated on gently rising ground, on the north side and near the head of the bay. The greater portion of the town is built upon a tongue of land bounded on the east by Lough Athalia, an arm of the sea, and on the west by the river which forms the outlet of Lough Corrib. The other and smaller part is on the opposite bank of the river and in the district known as lar - Connaught, the connection being maintained by one wooden and two stone bridges. The West Bridge is a very ancient structure of the date of 1342, and formerly possessed two tower gateways at the west and centre; these, however, have long since disappeared. The Upper Bridge, leading from the court-house, was erected in 181 8.
Under various names a town has been established here from the very earliest times, and Ptolemy mentions a city called Magnata, or Nagnata, which is generally considered to be identical with Galway. This last name is derived, according to some, from a legend to the effect that a woman named Galva was drowned in the river hard by; by others, from 95

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Galway sits on gently rising ground on the north side and near the head of the bay. The greater part of the town is built on a tongue of land bounded on the east by Lough Athalia, an arm of the sea, and on the west by the river that forms the outlet of Lough Corrib. The smaller part lies on the opposite bank, in the district known as Iar-Connaught, and the connection between the two is kept by one wooden and two stone bridges. The West Bridge is a very ancient structure, dating from 1342. It formerly had two tower gateways, one at the west and one at the centre, but these have long since disappeared. A town has stood here from the earliest times, and Ptolemy mentions a city called Magnata, or Nagnata, generally considered to be the same place as Galway. The name itself comes, according to some, from a legend that a woman named Galva was drowned in the river hard by.

Captain Sheridan of the Slievemore Hotel, Dugort

Doogort · townland · Mayo

At Dugort on Achill Island, the author stayed at the Slievemore Hotel run by Captain Sheridan, a colorful and exaggerating host famed as a storyteller in the west of Ireland, who claimed kinship with General Phil Sheridan.

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I AM writing this from memory and without notes, so I may be pardoned for having forgotten to introduce in its proper place our trip to Achill Island, one of the most interesting of our experiences. I shall start by saying that we crossed over to the island at its nearest point to the main-land, and, taking our seats on a "long" public car which stood in readiness, we were pulled by two immense horses the thirteen miles to the village of Dugort at a steady pace that never "slacked up" for the entire distance. It rained, but the car was plentifully supplied with tarpaulins, which were strapped round us in artistic style, and so we arrived at the Slievemore Hotel dry but benumbed. "Mine host" of the Slievemore, one Captain Sheridan, is perhaps the bestknown Boniface in the west of Ireland. The iridescent splendor of his imagination, his contempt for detail, and his facility 78
ACHILL ISLAND

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

The Pigeon-Hole at Ballinrobe

Ballinrobe · town · Mayo

Near the castle at Ballinrobe, an underground passage called the 'pigeon-hole' shows the flow of water between Loughs Mask and Corrib. Visitors were shown the site with great hospitality by an old gate-keeper.

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Loughs Mask and Corrib are connected by an underground river, as the porous nature of the rock will not permit the water to flow on the surface. We went down thirty feet into the "pigeon-hole," which is near the castle, to see the flow of water through the ground. The arrangements for seeing this place might truly be called hospitality in a high form, as everything is shown and nothing expected in return for the courtesy. The solicitude of the old gate-keeper for our welfare was particularly marked, for when we returned to the gate after a very peaceful inspection, he doffed his hat and exclaimed, "Glory be to God, yer honors have returned safe and in good health, too, I see!"
During the Irish famine an attempt was made to dig a canal connecting the lakes, so as to give the people something to do, and an enormous amount of money was sunk in the project. The rocky bed absorbed the water, however, as fast as it flowed in, and the enterprise proved an utter failure. Every visitor asks what it is when he sees it. It is called "The Great Blunder."

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Balfour's narrow-gauge railroad at Creeslough for poor relief

Creeslough · town · Donegal

At Creeslough, Balfour was building a narrow-gauge railroad specifically to provide employment for the poor of the district.

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After crossing the bridge, we took up the road to Creeslough, where Balfour is building a narrow-gauge railroad for the purpose of giving employment to the poor ; and by driving till quite late we reached Dunfanaghy. "A great day's work," as John put it, while cracking his whip during the last half mile.
DUNFANAGHY TO FALLCARRAGH

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You're coming through Creeslough now. Balfour is building a narrow-gauge railroad here, to give employment to the poor of the district. The road goes on toward Dunfanaghy, and the driver called the long day's run "a great day's work."

Grave of Patrick Beolan in the great Sligo abbey ruin

Sligo · town · Sligo

In the great abbey at Sligo, now a fine ruin, lies the grave of Patrick Beolan, who lived to the age of one hundred and forty-four before dying.

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Sligo attained some importance as early as 1245 as the residence of Maurice Fitz- Gerald, Earl of Kildare, who there founded a castle and monastery. The castle played an important part in the struggles of the English against the Irish chiefs in the thirteenth century and subsequently, in which the rival O'Conors and O'Donnells were mainly concerned. Sligo suffered in the massacres of 1641, when it was taken by Sir Frederick Hamilton and the abbey burned. The Parliamentary troops, under Sir Charles Coote, took it in 1645 after a battle in which the Irish were defeated and the warlike Archbishop of Tuam, Malachy 0' Kelly, was killed. In the great abbey, which is now a fine ruin, is the grave of Patrick Beolan, who did not "give in," as they say in Ireland, till he had reached the age of one hundred and forty-four.
While at Sligo we met the brother of Lieutenant Henn (owner of the Galatea, and who tried to lift the cup with her some years ago). This man is a local judge and a very pleasant and entertaining gentleman, reminding us greatly of his late brother, whose estate he inherited.

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Sligo, there's a great abbey standing as a fine ruin, and inside it lies the grave of Patrick Beolan. He did not, as they say in Ireland, give in, until he had reached the age of 144. The abbey goes back to 1245, when Maurice Fitz-Gerald, Earl of Kildare, founded a castle and monastery here. It burned in the massacres of 1641, when Sir Frederick Hamilton took Sligo. Parliamentary troops under Sir Charles Coote took the town again in 1645, after a battle in which the Irish were defeated and Malachy O'Kelly, the warlike Archbishop of Tuam, was killed. But it is Beolan's grave people remember, for the simple reason that he lived to one hundred and forty-four.

Ruins of Stubber's Castle, High Street, Galway

Galway · city · Galway · 1619

The complete ruins of Stubber's Castle stand in High Street, Galway, entered through a shop, with a carved chimney-piece bearing the arms of Blake and Brown dated 1619.

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The Joyces, however, ran the Lynches a close race in Connemara, a part of which is called "Joyce's country/' In Abbeygate Street is the Joyces' mansion, now in ruins. On a house in the adjoining street are the arms of Galway. The complete ruins of Stubber's Castle are in High Street, the entrance to it being through a shop, the only feature of which worth noticing is a carved chimney-piece bearing the arms of Blake and Brown (1619). In 102
RECESS TO GALWAY

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, the complete ruins of Stubber's Castle stand on High Street, reached through a shop. The one feature worth noticing inside is a carved chimney-piece bearing the arms of Blake and Brown, dated 1619.

St. Fechin's church at Cong founded 624

Cong · town · Mayo · 624

Cong, a very ancient place on the neck of land between Lough Corrib and Lough Mask, was the site of a church founded by St. Fechin of Fore in 624.

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OUR next points were Claremorris and Ballinrobe. They were not interesting, so we took a car to Cong, a very ancient place lying on the neck of land which separates Lough Corrib from Lough Mask. St. Fechin, of Fore, founded a church here in 624, and it is at this place that Lord Ardilaun has his castle, a large building on the shores of Lough Corrib, surrounded by an immense park, with fine timber, Italian sunken gardens, and a pheasantry. In the gardens, in luxuriant profusion, countless varieties of rare plants, gigantic palms, delicate ferns, are as much at home as in their native tropics, carefully nurtured in a climate tempered to their necessities, soft and balmy from the influence of the Gulf Stream. Lord Ardilaun has many other attractions besides these at Ashford Castle — i. e., steam - yachts, watch - towers, conservatories, stables, a salmon - river, 67
ON AN IRISH JAUNTING-CAR

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Carrick's ancient forts dating to the sixth century

Carrick · town · Donegal · 500–599

Carrick was noted as a scenery and ruin centre, with forts and other antiquities said to date back to the sixth century. It was also a favourite summer resort of the artist Sir Frederick Leighton.

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Next morning when the sun rose we were off for Carrick, a scenery and ruin centre, the forts, etc., dating back to the sixth century. This was a favorite resort of Sir Frederick Leighton, the artist, who frequently spent his summers there. We took a noon rest at Ardara and then pushed on to complete our twenty-eight miles.
Before reaching Carrick we traversed the Glengesh Pass, a deep and beautiful ravine, " with verdure clad/' the hills on both sides rising one thousand six hundred and fifty feet above sea level, their slopes ornamented with many water-falls, all joining to make up a brawling stream which rushed headlong down the valley. Altogether the place was a most charming one.

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

You're coming into Carrick, a scenery and ruin centre in Donegal. The forts and other antiquities here are said to date back to the sixth century. It was a favourite summer resort of the artist Sir Frederick Leighton, who frequently spent his summers there.

Legendary origins of Galway's name

Galway · city · Galway

Various legends account for Galway's name: a woman named Galva drowned in the river; derivation from the Gallaeci of Spain; or from the Gaels who occupied the town. Ptolemy is said to have mentioned a city called Magnata identical with Galway.

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Under various names a town has been established here from the very earliest times, and Ptolemy mentions a city called Magnata, or Nagnata, which is generally considered to be identical with Galway. This last name is derived, according to some, from a legend to the effect that a woman named Galva was drowned in the river hard by; by others, from 95
ON AN IRISH JAUNTING-CAR

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

As you come through Galway, you're passing through a place that has been a town from the earliest times. Ptolemy mentioned a city called Magnata, or Nagnata, generally considered to be identical with this place. The name is disputed. One legend says a woman named Galva was drowned in the river. Others trace it to the Gallaeci of Spain, or to the Gaels who occupied the town.

Prince Charlie's embarkation point near Slieve League

Bunglass · bay · Donegal · 1745–1746

On the descent from Bunglass, the author was shown the spot where Prince Charlie the Pretender was said to have embarked when fleeing from English forces.

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car and were driven home for a late dinner. On the way we were shown the place where Prince Charlie the Pretender embarked when he fled from the English forces.
DONEGAL TO BALLYSHANNON

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

Delphi House and the Marquis of Sligo

Delphi · site · Mayo

Delphi, one of the loveliest spots in Connemara, was home to Delphi House, which formerly belonged to the Marquis of Sligo, who at one time lived there.

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After landing we drove to Delphi to see its lake and woods; then on to Lough Dhu, a long sheet of water from the banks of which the mountains rise to a height of twenty-five hundred feet. Delphi is one of the loveliest spots in Connemara, but we can hardly go as far as the enthusiastic Englishman who wrote: "It may be safely said that if Connemara contained no other beauty, Delphi alone would be worth the journey from London, for the sake of the mountain scenery." Delphi House formerly belonged to the Marquis of Sligo, and at one time he lived there. We returned by driving round the head of the bay, with a horse that would have retarded a funeral procession. Within a mile of the hotel there 72
H S

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

As the companion tells it

Right here is Delphi, one of the loveliest spots in Connemara. The mountains rise from the banks of the lakes to a height of 2,500 feet, and the place was once described as worth the journey from London for the mountain scenery alone. Delphi House, right beside the road, formerly belonged to the Marquis of Sligo, who lived here at one time.

Tory Island: Fomorian legend and Balor's Castle

Tory Island · townland · Donegal

Tory Island was said to be possessed by the Fomorians, a race of pirates and giants, twelve centuries before the Christian era, led by Balor of the Mighty Blows. Two rocks on the east coast are named Balor's Castle and Balor's Prison, and Conaing erected a tower there as recorded in the Book of Lecan.

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" The Tower of the Island, the Island of the Tower, The citadel of Conaing, the son of Foebar."
It contains a portion of a round tower, built of undressed boulders of red granite. It was never more than about forty feet in height, is seventeen feet two inches in diameter, and the walls at the base are four feet three inches thick; the doorway is five and a half feet high and is eight feet from the ground. There are also ruins of two churches (a monastery having been founded here by St. Columba), and a peculiar tau- cross. On the northwest end of the island is a fine light-house, illumined by gas, and it has also a fog-siren and a group-flashing light; it stands a hundred and thirty feet above high-water. Near it is the new signal station of Lloyd's, 37

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

O'Flaherties driven out of Aran by the English

near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway · 1587

The O'Briens were lords of Aran from an early period but were driven out by the O'Flaherties of Iar Connaught, who in turn were driven out by the English in 1587.

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The O'Briens were lords of Aran from an early period, but were driven out by the O'Flaherties of Iar Connaught, who in turn were driven out by the English in 1587. In 1651, the Marquis of Clanricarde fortified the Castle of Arkyn, the stronghold of the O'Briens, which held out against the Parliamentary army for more than a year after the surrender of Galway; but on the occupation of the 114
ARAN ISLANDS

Internet Archive onirishjauntingc00bayn, Chapter 1

On an Irish jaunting-car through Donegal and Connemara

The stories, best first

The Lynch Stone and the mayor's execution of his own son

Storming of the fort at Thomond Bridge

Anastasia Gould builds Monkstown Castle as a surprise

Sarsfield destroys William's siege-train near Killaloe

Signing of the Treaty of Limerick on the Treaty Stone

Assault on Limerick and defence by its women

Ballyshannon Castle and the 1597 defeat of English forces

Wreck of the gunboat Wasp off Tory Island, 1884

Sligo Castle founded 1245 and town's turbulent history

Doe Castle besieged in 1608

Lord George Hill's improvements at Gweedore and the rundale system

Salmon leap and fishery at Ballyshannon Falls

The Annals of the Four Masters compiled near Donegal Abbey

The Cross of Cong and its history

The Tribes of Galway by-law of 1518

Cannonball found in Cork cathedral tower from 1690 siege

Ginkell's siege of Galway after Aughrim, 1691

Inspector Martin clubbed to death near Bunbeg during Gweedore evictions

The Great Blunder famine relief canal

St. Enda founds monasteries on Aranmore

St. Fin Barre founds Cork's cathedral church

Mitchell Henry and the building of Kylemore Castle

Castle of Arkyn holds out against Parliamentary army

Gartan Lough: birthplace of St. Columba and St. Patrick's pilgrimage

Legend of the preserved dead on Inishglora

Siege of Cork by Marlborough and the Duke of Wurtemburg

Funeral rest-stone monuments on Aran

Achill Head and Croaghaun Mountain cliffs

Fort erected by Connaught men in 1124

St. Anne Shandon Church and its bells

The ruined house and store of Captain Boycott at Keem Bay

Richard de Burgo takes Galway castle, 1232

Inscription against the O'Flahertys over Galway's west gate

Slieve League's ancient oratory of St. Hugh McBreacon

Tory Island round tower and monastic ruins

King John's Castle and Thomond Bridge fortifications

William Allingham memorial tablet on Ballyshannon bridge

Carlyle's 1849 visit to Lord Hill at Gweedore

Kilronan village on Aranmore, Firbolg descendants

Holy Week pilgrimage around Aranmore

Lord Palmerston's harbor works near Sligo in 1842

West Bridge, Galway, ancient structure of 1342

Captain Sheridan of the Slievemore Hotel, Dugort

The Pigeon-Hole at Ballinrobe

Balfour's narrow-gauge railroad at Creeslough for poor relief

Grave of Patrick Beolan in the great Sligo abbey ruin

Ruins of Stubber's Castle, High Street, Galway

St. Fechin's church at Cong founded 624

Carrick's ancient forts dating to the sixth century

Legendary origins of Galway's name

Prince Charlie's embarkation point near Slieve League

Delphi House and the Marquis of Sligo

Tory Island: Fomorian legend and Balor's Castle

O'Flaherties driven out of Aran by the English