Researches in the South of Ireland

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. The Silver-Cased Skull of St Declan

   Windgap or Ardmore · townland · Waterford

   On 24 July, St Declan's Day, vast numbers of country people flock to Ardmore for penance and prayer. Croker was told that a skull encased in silver is exhibited on that day as the genuine cranium of the saint.

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   Many Irish manuscripts mention St. Declan ; and extracts from a manuscript life were published by Archbishop Usher, in which the good saint is stated to have converted several of the Irish to Christianity some years before the arrival of St. Patrick. On the 24th of July (called St. Declan's Day), vast numbers of the country people flock to Ardmore for the purposes of penance and prayer ; and I was informed that a skull, encased with silver, is then exhibited as the genuine cranium of that saint.

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 29

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around Ardmore, there's a silver-cased skull they say belongs to St Declan. Irish manuscripts mention him, and a manuscript life published by Archbishop Usher says he converted several of the Irish to Christianity years before St Patrick arrived. On the 24th of July, St Declan's Day, vast numbers of country people flock to Ardmore for penance and prayer. On that day, the skull encased in silver is exhibited as the genuine cranium of the saint.

2. The Unconsecrated Skeleton with Elizabethan Coins

   Buttevant · townland · Cork · 1812

   Around 1812, labourers planting part of the castle grounds at Buttevant discovered a human skeleton a little below the surface, with what appeared to be a wig on the skull that crumbled when exposed to air. Coins from Elizabeth's reign were found concealed in the caul, and the body had no coffin and was buried outside consecrated ground.

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   About the year 1812, in planting part of the castle grounds the labourers discovered, a little way below the surface, a human skeleton, with the appearance of a wig on the skull, which mouldered

   118 CHARLEVILLE, DONERAILE, AND BUTTEVANT. CHAP. VI.

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 19

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, around 1812, labourers planting part of the castle grounds at Buttevant found a human skeleton just below the surface. There was what looked like a wig on the skull, but it crumbled when exposed to air. Coins from Elizabeth's reign were concealed in the caul. There was no coffin. The body lay outside consecrated ground.

3. Buried With His Horse and Gun on Knockmealdown

   Knockmealdown · townland · Waterford

   Knockmealdown, the loftiest of the mountain range closing the view from Dromana, is reckoned at some two thousand seven hundred feet. On its summit Major Eeles, of eccentric memory, lies buried with his horse and gun beside him.

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   The views of Drumana, on the contrai-y, exhibit the strongest marks of industry and improvement. Extensive plantations meet the eye in every direction, and the distance is closed by a range of mountains with a particularly well-shaped outline. The loftiest of these is Knockmeledown ; its height is reckoned at two thousand seven hundred English feet above the level of the sea, and, on the top, Major Eeles,* of eccentric memory, lies buried, with his horse and gun beside him. About Drumana, for some space, rocks and trees hang beautifully over the water, and form a variety of delightful combinations

   Proceeding forward, the village of AiTane appears on the right, remarkable in Irish history from having been the scene of a severe conflict, about the middle of the sixteenth century, between the clans of Butler and Fitzgerald, in which three hundred of the latter were

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 21

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Knockmealdown stands the loftiest mountain in the range that closes the view from Dromana. It rises about 2,700 feet above the sea. On its summit lies buried Major Eeles, of eccentric memory, with his horse and gun beside him. No more is told of him than that. He is remembered as eccentric, and he is remembered for this: that he was laid to rest at the very top of the highest mountain around Dromana, and that his horse and his gun went into the ground with him. The range has a particularly well-shaped outline, and the highest point of it holds this strange grave.

4. Limerick Burned by O'Brien

   Limerick · townland · Limerick · 1175–1194

   After Raymond le Gros withdrew his forces from Limerick, King Donald O'Brien ordered the city set ablaze in four places rather than let it shelter foreign strangers. The destruction was so thorough that the English could not be said to have regained the city until O'Brien's death in 1194.

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   The death of Strongbow, however, of which Raymond was informed by an enigmatical letter from his wife, rendered it necessary for him to withdraw his forces from the post he had so lately gained, as their presence was required in other parts of the kingdom; and having no alternative, he formally committed the city to O'Brien to hold for the King of England ; informing him that, having by submission become a subject of England, the king fully confided in the fidelity and zeal with which he would perform the trust reposed in him. But no sooner had Raymond evacuated Limerick, than it was set on fire in four places by order of O'Brien, with the declaration that it should no longer be a nest to harbour strangers. Leland adds, when this transaction was reported to Henry II., as prejudicial to Raymond, that prince generously remarked — " the first gaining of Limerick was a noble exploit, the recovery of it still nobler, but the only act of wisdom was the abandoning this conquest."

   Until the death of Donald O'Brien, in 1194, the English cannot be said to have regained Limerick, as the possession was obstinately disputed by the Irish, who again secured their triumph by reducing the city to ashes. With the faithless and untractable O'Brien this mode of ruinous warfare terminated; and Ferrar, in his Civic History, tells us, as a proof of the importance of Limerick, that King Richard,

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 6

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Limerick, somewhere around here, the city was put to the torch by its own king. When Strongbow died, Raymond le Gros learned of it through an enigmatical letter from his wife and had to withdraw his forces, since they were needed elsewhere. He formally handed Limerick over to King Donald O'Brien to hold for the King of England, telling him that as a subject of England the king trusted his fidelity. But the moment Raymond left, O'Brien ordered the city set on fire in four places, declaring it should no longer be what the record calls a nest to harbour strangers. When word of this reached Henry the Second, he said the first taking of Limerick was a noble exploit, the recovery of it still nobler, but the only act of wisdom was the abandoning of the conquest. The English cannot be said to have regained Limerick until O'Brien died in 1194, as the Irish obstinately disputed possession and again reduced the city to ashes. Ferrar, in his Civic History, notes the importance of Limerick, that King Richard

5. Lord Broghill Holds Lismore Castle, 1641

   Lismore · townland · Waterford · 1641

   Lismore Castle, built by King John and destroyed by the Irish four years later, passed from Sir Walter Raleigh to the first Earl of Cork. In the rebellion of 1641 it was defended against the Irish by the Earl's third son, Lord Broghill, who wrote to his father that if Lismore were lost it would be with his own life.

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   natural beauty of its situation. It was built by King John when he visited Ireland in 1 185, and four years after destroyed by the Irish, who regarded, both with fear and jealousy, the construction of every English fortification. On being rebuilt, Lismore Castle became an episcopal residence, until granted with the manor and other lands, at the yearly rent of 13/. 6s. 8d., to Sir Walter Raleigh, to whom Lismore is indebted for the foundation of a free school. From Sir Walter, this estate past into the possession of the first Earl of Cork, and in the rebellion of 1641, the castle was bravely defended by his third son, Lord Broghill, against the Irish. The conclusion of a letter from that young nobleman to his father on this occasion has been much eulogized : " My Lord," says the gallant writer, " fear nothing for Lismore, for if it be lost, it shall be with the life of him that begs your lordship's blessing, and styles himself, your lordship's most humble, most obliged, and most dutiful son and servant,"

   " Broghill."

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 21

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Lismore stands a castle with a long and violent history. It was built by King John when he visited Ireland, and 4 years later the Irish destroyed it, regarding every English fortification with fear and jealousy. On being rebuilt, Lismore Castle became an episcopal residence, until it was granted with the manor and other lands, at the yearly rent of 13 pounds, 6 shillings, and 8 pence, to Sir Walter Raleigh, to whom Lismore is indebted for the foundation of a free school. From Sir Walter, the estate passed into the possession of the first Earl of Cork. In the rebellion of 1641, the castle was bravely defended by his 3rd son, Lord Broghill, against the Irish. The conclusion of a letter from that young nobleman to his father on this occasion has been much eulogized. "My Lord," he wrote, "fear nothing for Lismore, for if it be lost, it shall be with the life of him that begs your lordship's blessing, and styles himself, your lordship's most humble, most obliged, and most dutiful son and servant, Broghill."

6. The Opened Vault of David de Barry at Buttevant Abbey

   Buttevant · townland · Cork

   The vault of the abbey's founder, David de Barry, lies in the middle of the chancel of Buttevant Abbey, now marked only by dissevered pieces of hewn stone. When it was recently opened to inter a descendant, a man who went down with the coffin described the interior as lined with figures of saints, each name engraven beneath, and a long inscription on a tablet at the upper end.

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   The vault of the founder, David de Barry, is mentioned as being in the middle of the chancel, and is now only marked by some dissevered pieces of hewn stone that indicate a square enclosure. — Being recently opened to inter a descendant, a man who went down with the coffin described the interior to me as lined with the figures of different saints, the name engraven under each, and having at the upper end a tablet, on which was a long inscription. On the south side of the nave is a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, of beautiful proportions, containing many tombs and inscriptions to the memory of the Barries, O'Dulins, Fitzgeralds, and Butlers. Attached to the stone cornice, a lion or Avolf courant, sculptured on an armorial shield, is pointed out to visitors —

   with a traditional story too long and too absurd for relation. — In the nave, choir, and chancel, there are also tombs to those families, and to the Lombards and Mahers. Smith mentions the tombs of several other distinguished names, since destroyed or concealed by the ruins of the fallen tower. A fragment of closed tracery which I observed in the choir is here copied.

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 18

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Buttevant Abbey, where the vault of its founder, David de Barry, lies in the middle of the chancel. Today it is marked only by dissevered pieces of hewn stone that indicate a square enclosure. When the vault was recently opened to inter a descendant, a man who went down with the coffin described the interior. He said it was lined with the figures of different saints, the name engraven under each, and at the upper end a tablet bearing a long inscription. On the south side of the nave stands a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, of beautiful proportions, holding many tombs and inscriptions to the memory of the Barries, the O'Dulins, the Fitzgeralds, and the Butlers. Attached to the stone cornice, a lion or wolf courant sculptured on an armorial shield is pointed out to visitors, with a traditional story too long and too absurd for relation. In the nave, choir, and chancel, there are tombs to those same families, and to the Lombards and the Mahers. Smith mentions the tombs of several other distinguished names, since destroyed or concealed by the ruins of the fallen tower.

7. The Stinking Bog of Glandore

   near Glandore · townland · Cork

   A bog near Glandore Harbour, burnt out by Colonel Hall for the copper particles in its turf, was known to the country people as "the Stinking Bog". Its ashes were so poisonous that any offal thrown on them and eaten by fowls, dogs or cats invariably caused death, so the ashes had to be carefully kept from animals.

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   This was called by the country people " the Stinking Bog ;" and when, for want of other fuel, they were obliged to burn the turf from it, the greatest precaution was used in placing the ashes where their fowls, dogs or eats could not get near them, as any offal thrown

   s s 2

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 54

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is what country people called the Stinking Bog. When they had no other fuel and had to burn its turf, they took great care with the ashes. Any offal thrown on them and eaten by fowls, dogs or cats caused death, so the ashes had to be kept where animals could not reach them.

8. Persecution of Catholics in Youghal's corporation records

   Youghal · townland · Cork · 1678–1744

   Youghal's civic records reveal decades of legal discrimination against Catholics, including bans on trading in the market, disfranchisement of Catholic freemen, and punishment for marrying a Catholic. These enactments spanned from 1678 through the mid-18th century.

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   1702. Several Papists, who had been admitted freemen, were disfranched, and it was ordered that no Papist should be made free again. 1744. Gregory Grimes, victualler, was disfranched, for having a

   Popish wife.

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 27

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Youghal, the corporation records show how Catholics were stripped of civic rights. In 1702, several Papists who had been admitted freemen were disfranchised, and it was ordered that no Papist should be made free again. In 1744, Gregory Grimes, victualler, was disfranchised, for having a Popish wife.

9. Ten Weeks Besieged: Youghal Holds Out, 1645

   Youghal · townland · Cork · 1645

   In 1645 Lord Cork maintained Youghal for nearly ten weeks against a large body of Irish forces under Lord Castlehaven, and compelled him to raise the siege. The town afterwards submitted to Cromwell, who embarked here for England at the end of his progress through Ireland.

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   Three years afterwards (1582) the Seneschal of Imokilly endeavoured to regain Youghall, but was defeated with the loss of fifty of his followers. In 1645, Lord Cork maintained the town for nearly ten weeks, against a large body of the Irish forces under Lord Castlehaven, and compelled him to raise the siege.

   As a matter of course Youghall submitted to Cromwell, who embarked here for England, after his almost incredible progress through Ireland, that, like a resistless torrent, overwhelmed every attempt at opposition.

   Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Youghal, a town with a long history of being fought over. In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly tried to regain the place but was defeated, losing 50 of his followers. In 1645, Lord Cork held the town for nearly ten weeks against a large body of Irish forces under Lord Castlehaven, and compelled him to raise the siege. Afterwards the town submitted to Cromwell, who embarked here for England after his progress through Ireland.

10. The Ape That Stole the Child of Tralee

    Tralee · townland · Kerry

    Thomas Fitzgerald, founder of one of Youghal's abbeys, was called the Ape from a tradition attached to his father's castle in Tralee. A tame baboon snatched him from his cradle, carried him about the highest part of the walls to the terror of onlookers, then brought him down and laid him back safely — an event still commemorated in the monkeys of the Duke of Leinster's crest.

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    habit of that order, caused a house for grey friars to be erected, in place of his intended castle. The other abbey was founded by Thomas Fitzgerald, commonly called the Ape, a name bestowed on him in consequence of the tradition that a tame baboon or ape, at his father's castle in Tralee, had snatched him from his cradle, and ascending the highest part of the walls, carried the infant about in his arms for a considerable time, to the terror of the spectators, but at last brought the child down safely, and deposited him again with much care in his cradle. The crest and supporters of the Duke of Leinster, who claims descent from Thomas the ape, are monkies, in remembrance, as the heralds state, of this event.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Tralee, Thomas Fitzgerald's father had a castle. Thomas was called the Ape because of what happened here. A tame baboon snatched him from his cradle, climbed to the highest part of the walls, and carried the infant about for a considerable time to the terror of the spectators. Then it brought him down safely and deposited him with much care back in his cradle. Thomas went on to found an abbey in Youghal. The Duke of Leinster, who claims descent from him, still bears monkeys on his crest and supporters in remembrance of the event.

11. The Attainder of the O'Learys of Carrignacurra

    Carrignacurra · townland · Cork · 1588–1641

    Dermot Oge O'Leary of Carrinacurra was accused of involvement in the Earl of Desmond's rebellion and was attainted by act of parliament in 1588 along with others. Conogher O'Leary forfeited the same castle and estate again in 1641, when it was garrisoned by order of Cromwell.

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    Dermot Oge O'Leary, of Carrinacurra, was accused of being concerned in the Earl of Desmond's rebellion ; and, in 1588, was attainted, amongst others, by act of parliament: and Conogher O'Leary again forfeited this castle and estate in 1641, when it was garrisoned by order of Cromwell.

    Following the course of the river Lee, in its progress nearly due east towards the ocean, the ruins of Drumcaragh Castle may be seen, another fortress erected by the O'Learies; and not far distant is Toomb Bridge, a long and narrow pass over an extensive and swampy flat, through which the Lee meanders, embracing numerous little islands covered with the bog myrtle and stunted timber. Rising above Toomb Bridge is a steep and considerable hill, on the top of which stands Dundarerk Castle, built by the Mac Carthies, and forfeited by Dermot Mac Carty in 1641. It commands a view of an immense tract of country, in which the appearance of cultivation is scattered and unequal.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrignacurra, a castle once belonged to the O'Learys. Dermot Oge O'Leary was accused of being involved in the Earl of Desmond's rebellion, and in 1588 he was attainted, amongst others, by act of parliament. Conogher O'Leary again forfeited this castle and estate in 1641, when it was garrisoned by order of Cromwell. Following the course of the river Lee, running nearly due east towards the ocean, the ruins of Drumcaragh Castle may be seen, another fortress erected by the O'Learies. Nearby is Toomb Bridge, a long and narrow pass over an extensive and swampy flat, through which the Lee meanders, embracing numerous little islands covered with bog myrtle and stunted timber. Rising above Toomb Bridge is a steep and considerable hill, on the top of which stands Dundarerk Castle, built by the Mac Carthies, and forfeited by Dermot Mac Carty in 1641. It commands a view of an immense tract of country, where cultivation is scattered and unequal.

12. The Banshee of the Knights of Kerry

    Dingle · townland · Kerry

    An elegy on one of the knights of Kerry describes the family Banshee wailing in advance of the knight's death. Every trader in Dingle who heard the strain feared it foretold his own death, but the bard assured them such warnings are given only to those of illustrious descent.

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    A curious spirit, and one I believe peculiar to Ireland, is the Banshee, or White Fairy, sometimes called She Frogh, or the House Fairy. The derivation of both these names appears to me obvious from the credulous personification, that of a small and shrivelled old woman with long white hair, supposed to be peculiarly attached to ancient houses or families, and to announce the approaching dissolution of any of the members by mournful lamentations. This fairy attendant is considered as highly honourable, and in part of an elegy on one of the knights of Kerry, still extant, the family Banshee is introduced as deploring, with wailing accents, the knight's impending fate; when every trader at Dingle who hears the strain becomes alarmed lest it should forebode his own death ; but the bard assures them, with an air of humorous sarcasm, they have no cause for uneasiness, such warning being given only to those of illustrious descent.

    Another species of Irish fairy is the Phooka, the descriptions given of which are so visionary and undefined it is impossible to reduce them to detail. The name of many lonely rocks and glens in Ireland declares them sacred to this spirit. In the county Cork there are two castles called Carrig Phooka, or the Phooka's Rock, one near Doneraile, the other not far from Macroom ; and in the county Wicklow, the celebrated waterfall of Poula Phooka, or the Phooka's Cavern, is well known.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in Dingle, there is a story that connects this place to one of the knights of Kerry. The Banshee, sometimes called She Frogh or the House Fairy, is a spirit believed peculiar to Ireland. She is imagined as a small and shrivelled old woman with long white hair, attached to ancient houses and families, who announces the approaching death of any member by mournful lamentations. This fairy attendant was considered highly honourable. An elegy on one of the knights of Kerry, still extant, introduces the family Banshee deploring with wailing accents the knight's impending fate. Every trader at Dingle who heard the strain became alarmed, fearing it forebode his own death. But the bard assured them, with an air of humorous sarcasm, that they had no cause for uneasiness, such warning being given only to those of illustrious descent. The book carrying this account also describes another Irish fairy, the Phooka, whose descriptions are so visionary and undefined they cannot be reduced to detail. The names of many lonely rocks and glens in Ireland declare them sacred to this spirit. In county Cork there are two castles called Carrig Phooka, one near Doneraile, the other not far from Macroom, and in county Wicklow the celebrated waterfall of Poula Phooka is well known.

13. The Barren Ground Under the Druid's Altar

    Castlemary · townland · Cork

    At Castlemary, formerly Carrig Cotta or the Rock of the Sun, stands a cromlech called the Druid's Altar — a massive twelve-foot stone raised at one end on two smaller stones, with a second, smaller altar beside it. Croker records the local tradition that nothing will grow beneath either of these altars, which he attributes to the want of light and air rather than to anything stranger.

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    Not far distant from Cloyne is Castle Mary — a seat belonging to the Longfield family : it was formerly called Carrig Cotta, supposed to be a corruption of Carrig Croith, or the Rock of the Sun, from a cromlech or Druidical altar, that is still to be seen not far from the house. This remain of paganism consists of a rough and massive stone, twelve feet in length : one end elevated about six feet from the ground, by two smaller stones, from which its name of Cromlech, signifying a bending or inclined stone, is derived. Close by it is a smaller stone or altar, supported in a similar diagonal position by a single stone. There is a tradition that nothing will grow under either of these altars, an opinion that originates from the total absence of verdure, incident to a want of sufficient light and air. The top of the larger altar was richly covered with the plant familiarly called the Wood Geranium, (Geranium Robertianum, or Robert's Crane's Bill,) the light feathery leaves and delicate pink blossoms of which, formed a pleasing contrast to the solemnity and breadth of the altar.

    The plantations of Castle Mary are venerable and extensive, arranged in the taste of the last century: few situations can be more imposing or romantic than that of the Druid's Altar, the descent to which is overshadowed by some luxuriant ash trees of singularly beautiful form and growth ; the gigantic size attained by some, surprizes the English traveller, and their long graceful branches, reaching to the ground, produce an effect not unlike the famed banyan groves of the east. Whilst Miss Nicholson was sketching the altar, a figure emerged from this depth of foliage, in costume, which, had it been a tint whiter, might well have passed for that of a Hindoo — but the innocent deception was soon destroyed by the irresistible accent in which the following exclamation was uttered, after coolly surveying that lady's work and the subject of it.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is a place once called Carrig Cotta, a name thought to come from Carrig Croith, the Rock of the Sun. The name came from a cromlech, a Druidical altar, still standing not far from Castle Mary, a seat of the Longfield family, not far from Cloyne. The altar is a rough and massive stone, twelve feet in length, with one end raised about six feet from the ground on two smaller stones. That gave it the name cromlech, meaning a bending or inclined stone. Close beside it stands a second, smaller altar, held in a similar diagonal position by a single stone. There is a tradition that nothing will grow under either of these altars. The ground beneath them is bare, though this seems to come from a want of sufficient light and air rather than from anything stranger. The top of the larger altar, though, is richly covered with Wood Geranium, Robert's Crane's Bill, its feathery leaves and pink blossoms forming a contrast to the solidity of the stone. The plantations of Castle Mary are old and extensive, arranged in the taste of the last century. The descent to the altar is overshadowed by ash trees of singularly beautiful form, their long branches reaching to the ground. While Miss Nicholson was sketching the altar, a figure emerged from the foliage, dressed in a costume that, a shade whiter, might have passed for that of a Hindoo. But the innocent deception was soon destroyed by the irresistible accent in which an exclamation was uttered, after coolly surveying her work and the subject of it.

14. The Carved Skull of the Dragon and the Corpse

    near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork

    A curious fragment was dug up in the neighbourhood of Carrigrohan Castle and came into the author's possession. It is a grotesque carving worked on bone, supposed to be part of a human skull, showing a dragon stirring an emaciated human figure or corpse with a pole. Between them runs a label bearing the legend "mittet malos in caminu".

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    In this neighbourhood, a curious fragment, now in my possession, was dug up; it is a grotesque carving minutely executed on bone, (supposed to have been part of a human skull,) representing a dragon stirring with a pole an emaciated human figure or corpse, and between them is a label bearing the legend " mittet malos in caminu

    p P

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, near Carrigrohan Castle, a curious fragment was dug up. It is a grotesque carving, minutely worked on bone, thought to be part of a human skull. It shows a dragon stirring an emaciated human figure, or corpse, with a pole. Between them runs a label bearing the words, mittet malos in caminu.

15. The Priest's Wake at Holy Cross Abbey

    Holycross · townland · Tipperary

    In Holy Cross Abbey, County Tipperary, a double row of pillars between the small chapels on the south side of the choir forms a kind of open tomb known as the Priest's Wake. Tradition holds that the coffins of the clergy lay there through the night before their interment.

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    " The division between the small chapels on the south side of the choir is by a double row of pillars, forming a kind of open tomb, called the Priest's Wake, from a tradition that the coffins of the clergy remained in it the night previous to interment, which is not improbable. From hence we ascended by a narrow staircase to the apartments over the chapels, to which various, and possibly very erroneous names are now attached, and with some difficulty we made our way to the top of the tower. It commands an extensive and beautiful prospect, including the Rock of Cashel, distant about twelve miles. But the stormy sky cautioned us to seek for shelter, and we had scarcely reached the choir when the storm was renewed with increased violence. The old woman, our guide, crouched on a low tomb to tell her beads, and my companion and I were left to our silent meditations. The rain poured down in torrents, rattling over our heads, beating and splashing against the walls in front, and streaming from off them and the flat grave-stones which covered the whole surface of the abbey; while the wind in furious gusts drove it in clouds of mist through the open tracery of the chapel window upon us ; and the slow, harsh, hollow creaking of the boughs of the old trees was an accompaniment in unison with the dreary and melancholy scene around us."

    In closing these remarks on the ancient buildings of Ireland, it is scarcely necessary to observe, that, notwithstanding their number, little exists to reward the inquiry of the architect. The agitated state of the country for a series of ages may be read in the works of defence with which Ireland is said to have been " sown," and this very circumstance appears to be a fair reason why so little attention was paid to architectural embellishment. The irregularity observable

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Holycross, Holy Cross Abbey holds a feature that gave it its name. Between the small chapels on the south side of the choir, a double row of pillars forms a kind of open tomb. It is called the Priest's Wake, from a tradition that the coffins of the clergy remained in it the night before interment. The writer of the account thought this not improbable. From there a narrow staircase leads to the apartments over the chapels. Various names are now attached to those rooms, and the writer thought them possibly very erroneous. With some difficulty they made their way to the top of the tower. It commands an extensive and beautiful prospect, including the Rock of Cashel, distant about 12 miles. But the stormy sky cautioned them to seek shelter, and they had scarcely reached the choir when the storm was renewed with increased violence. The old woman who served as their guide crouched on a low tomb to tell her beads, and the writer and his companion were left to their silent meditations. The rain poured down in torrents, rattling over their heads, beating and splashing against the walls in front, and streaming from off them and the flat gravestones which covered the whole surface of the abbey. The wind in furious gusts drove it in clouds of mist through the open tracery of the chapel window upon them. The slow, harsh, hollow creaking of the boughs of the old trees accompanied the dreary and melancholy scene around them.

16. The Quaker Prophet in Sackcloth and Ashes

    Cork · townland · Cork · 1667–1698

    John Exham, called the Quaker Prophet and once a soldier under Cromwell, walked the streets of Cork with his head covered in sackcloth and ashes preaching repentance, for which he suffered a long and severe imprisonment. Undismayed, he repeated the exercise in Cork in 1698 when above seventy, and persevered until his death past ninety.

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    Amongst the early religious associates of Penn was John Exham, distinguished by the name of the Quaker Prophet, an eccentric fanatic, originally a soldier under Cromwell, but who, on the appearance of Quakerism, took a leading part in the dissemination of its pacific doctrines. His enthusiasm was so great, about the time of Penn's imprisonment, that he walked through the streets, his head covered with sackcloth and ashes, preaching repentance and amendment of life, for which he suffered a long and severe imprisonment ; but undismayed by such usage, he took a second exercise of the same kind in Cork, during the year 1698, being then above seventy.

    CHAP. X. CORK. 199

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, John Exham, known as the Quaker Prophet, once walked the streets with his head covered in sackcloth and ashes, preaching repentance. He had been a soldier under Cromwell before turning to Quakerism and its pacific doctrines. His enthusiasm was so great that he endured a long and severe imprisonment for that first exercise. Undismayed, he returned to Cork in 1698, above seventy years old, and did it all again. He persevered until his death past ninety.

17. The Scalped Rock of Glen Rogh

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry

    In an old Irish manuscript the sorceress Eadoin enchanted Eogan's adversaries so that rocks on the battlefield appeared as bodies of armed men, and while Goll and the sons of Moirne fought these senseless stones she carried Eogan and his followers away to Spain. The rock is said to be called Cloch Bhearrha, the Scalped Rock, in Glean Rogh near Kenmare, from the indentures made by Goll's weapons shattering upon it.

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    In the preceding part of the same poem the support and assistance received by Eogan and his tribe from a sorceress named Eadoin, is mentioned ; who, in a former engagement, so fascinated the eyes of Eogan's adversaries by her enchantments, that some rocks on the field of battle assumed the appearance of formidable bodies of armed men ; and while Goll and the sons Moirne, with their valiant associates, attacked these flinty phantoms, and were occupied in contest with invulnerable and senseless stones, the sorceress conveyed the unwilling Eogan and his followers from the scene of warfare, and embarked them for Spain. " The rock," adds an English note on this passage of the manuscript, " which was converted into the resemblance of Eogan and his troops, is, at this day, called the Scalped Rock — in Irish, ' Cloch Bhearrha,' — in Glean Rogh, near Kin-mare, from the indenture made in it by the arms of Goll, which were shivered and broken into pieces thereon."

    As in England, a worn horseshoe nailed on the threshold, or near the entrance of a house, is considered as a security against witchcraft, but this remedy is used only in the better description of cabins.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    In an old Irish poem, Eogan and his tribe were aided by a sorceress named Eadoin. In a former engagement, she enchanted the eyes of Eogan’s adversaries so that rocks on the battlefield appeared as formidable bodies of armed men. While Goll and the sons of Moirne, with their valiant associates, attacked these flinty phantoms and fought senseless stones, Eadoin carried the unwilling Eogan and his followers from the scene of warfare and embarked them for Spain. The rock that was turned into the likeness of Eogan and his troops is called the Scalped Rock, in Irish “Cloch Bhearrha,” in Glean Rogh near Kenmare, from the indenture made in it by the arms of Goll, which were shivered and broken into pieces upon it. So somewhere around here, that rock is said to stand, marked by the shattered weapons of a man who fought an illusion.

18. Protestants Imprisoned in Blarney and Macroom Castles

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1688

    After James II landed at Kinsale in 1688 and heard mass publicly in Cork, Lord Clare, the governor, ordered all Protestants remaining in the city to be committed to prison. The churches of Cork and the castles of Blarney, Macroom and others belonging to Lord Clancarty were used as places of confinement.

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    James landed at Kinsale on Wednesday the 12th of March, 1688, and was received and entertained by Lord Clancarty, whom he created one of the Lords of his bed-chamber, and, by letters patent, clerk of the crown and peace for Munster. James also gave him a troop of horse, in command of which, he is charged with having committed many acts of wanton cruelty. On the Sunday following his arrival, James, supported by two Franciscan friars, and attended by Lord Clancarty and many priests in their orders, publicly heard mass performed in Cork; and Lord Clare, the governor, caused all protestants who remained in the city to be committed to prison— the churches in Cork, the castles of Blarney, Macroom, and the others belonging to Lord Clancarty, being used as places of confinement.

    On the surrender of Cork to the Duke of Marlborough, in 1691, Lord Clancarty, amongst others, was taken at the capture of the old fort, and, notwithstanding the exertions made by his father-in-law, the Earl of Sunderland, to procure his pardon, a representation, drawn up by Sir Richard Cox, (the historian, then second justice of

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a castle was used as a prison in 1688. James landed at Kinsale on Wednesday the 12th of March, received by Lord Clancarty, whom he made one of the Lords of his bed-chamber and, by letters patent, clerk of the crown and peace for Munster. James gave him a troop of horse, in command of which he is charged with having committed many acts of wanton cruelty. On the Sunday following his arrival, James, supported by two Franciscan friars and attended by Lord Clancarty and many priests in their orders, publicly heard mass in Cork. Lord Clare, the governor, caused all Protestants who remained in the city to be committed to prison. The churches in Cork and the castles of Blarney, Macroom and others belonging to Lord Clancarty were used as places of confinement. On the surrender of Cork to the Duke of Marlborough in 1691, Lord Clancarty was taken at the capture of the old fort. Despite the exertions of his father-in-law, the Earl of Sunderland, to procure his pardon, a representation was drawn up by Sir Richard Cox, the historian, then second justice.

19. The Image-Lined Vault of the Pigeon Field, Ballybeg

    Ballybeg · townland · Cork

    Adjoining Ballybeg Abbey lies a large field called the Pigeon Field, where diggers some years before uncovered a vault lined with images. The informant added that the images, being handy to the road, were broken up and thrown onto it to repair the surface.

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    Adjoining Ballybeg Abbey is a large field, called the Pigeon Field; in digging which some years since, a vault was discovered " lined with images/' The person from whom I received the information added, that these images " being handy to the road," were broken up and thrown thereon to repair it. In 1815, the landlady

    suitor for the forfeited property, and recovered it by the interest of Mr. Montague, afterwards Earl of Halifax, who was then at the head of the treasury. He had been introduced to Mr. Montague by Congreve, who with others was desirous of honoring the descendant of so great a poet. Dr. Birch describes him as a man somewhat advanced in years, but unable to give any account of the works of his ancestor which are wanting. The family li;i.- been since very imperfectly traced." — Chalmers's Biog. Die.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, beside Ballybeg Abbey, there is a large field known as the Pigeon Field. Some years back, people digging in that field came upon a vault. It was lined with images. The person who told of this said the images were handy to the road, so they were broken up and thrown onto it to repair the surface. What was found underground was put under wheels and hooves.

20. The Rock That Floated from Rome to Ardmore

    Windgap or Ardmore · townland · Waterford

    On the shore at Ardmore a mass of rock under St Declan's patronage is reported to have floated from Rome carrying the saint's consecrated vestments and a bell for his tower. Creeping beneath it at low water on the saint's day, three times and with the right prayers, is believed to cure the worst rheumatic pains.

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    work never exceeds one night. Latocnaye, in his " Promenade d'un Francois dans llrelande," speaking of that at Cloyne, remarks, " si c'est le Diable qui 1'a batie le Diable est un bon mapon." The visitor of Ardmore will hear abundance of tales, in which the patron saint, Declan, appears as the " minister of miracles." That pious personage of course built the tower, which, it is affirmed, would possibly have reached the sky, if his operations had not been interrupted by an inquisitive old woman, when he hastily concluded his work, and, seizing the intruder, flung her with one twirl to the top, where the remains of her bones continued, until within a few years, a warning to her sex. The " cross like a crutch" has doubtless given rise to this legend. On the shore, a mass of rock is pointed out, equally under the patronage of St. Declan, beneath which it is possible to creep at low water, and the ceremony, if performed on the saint's day, is supposed to relieve the most grievous rheumatic pains, provided the patient, with becoming faith, can insinuate himself through the cavity three times, repeating certain prayers. This rock is reported to have floated from Rome, bearing the consecrated vestments of St. Declan, and a bell for the tower ; on whose second journey from thence into Ireland, says Dr. Hanmer, in his Chronicle, he " arrived in a place called Ard-naciored, in Latine Altitudo ovium, now called Ardmore, the which soile the Lord of Nandesi gave him, where goodly buildings have beene, and as the record runneth — ' Civitas sancti Declani quae in eo loco posita est, vocatur Ardmore, id est altitudo magna/ '

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Windgap or Ardmore, a mass of rock on the shore sits under the patronage of Saint Declan. The visitor to Ardmore hears no shortage of tales in which Declan appears as a minister of miracles. He built the tower, and it is said the tower might have reached the sky, had his work not been interrupted by an inquisitive old woman. He hastily finished, seized the intruder, and flung her with one twirl to the top, where her bones remained until within a few years, a warning to her sex. On the shore, the rock is pointed out, beneath which it is possible to creep at low water. The ceremony, performed on the saint's day, is supposed to relieve the most grievous rheumatic pains, provided the patient can insinuate himself through the cavity three times, repeating certain prayers, with becoming faith. This rock is reported to have floated from Rome, bearing the consecrated vestments of Saint Declan and a bell for the tower. On his second journey from thence into Ireland, Dr. Hanmer says in his Chronicle, he "arrived in a place called Ard-naciored, in Latine Altitudo ovium, now called Ardmore, the which soile the Lord of Nandesi gave him, where goodly buildings have beene, and as the record runneth — 'Civitas sancti Declani quae in eo loco posita est, vocatur Ardmore, id est altitudo magna.'"

21. The Witches' Stairs of Blarney's Rock Close

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    Within the Rock Close at Blarney Castle grounds, an irregularly excavated passage through solid rock is descended by a rude flight of stone steps known as the Witches' Stairs, leading to a fairy-like scene by the river.

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    The grounds attached to the castle, as I before observed, though so little attended to, are still beautiful. Walks, which a few years since were neat and trim, are now so overrun with brambles and wild flowers as to be passed with difficulty. Much wood has also been cut down, and the statues, so ridiculously enumerated in a popular song, removed. A picturesque bridge too, which led to the castle, has been swept away by the wintry floods, and, with the exception of a small dell called the Rock Close, every thing seems changed for the worse. In this romantic spot nature and art (a combination rather uncommon in pleasure grounds) have gone hand in hand. Advantage has been taken of accidental circumstances to form tasteful and characteristic combinations; and it is really a matter of difficulty at first to determine what is primitive, and what the produce of design. The delusion is even heightened by the present total neglect. You come most unexpectedly into this little shaded nook, and stand upon a natural terrace above the river, which glides as calmly as possible beneath. Here, if you feel inclined for contemplation, a rustic couch of rock, all festooned with moss and ivy, is at your service; but if adventurous feelings urge you to explore farther, a discovery is made of an almost concealed, irregularly excavated passage through the solid rock, which is descended by a rude flight of stone steps, called the " Witches' Stairs," and you emerge sul margine d'un rio, over which depend some light and graceful trees. It is indeed a fairy scene, and I know of no place where I could sooner imagine these little elves holding their moonlight revelry.

    A short distance to the south west of the castle is a lake, said to abound with a species of leech. It does not afford one good subject

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Blarney, the Rock Close is a small dell within the castle grounds. The walks that were once neat and trim had become so overrun with brambles and wild flowers that they could be passed only with difficulty. Much wood had been cut down, and the statues once ridiculed in a popular song had been removed. A picturesque bridge that led to the castle had been swept away by the wintry floods. With the exception of this small dell, everything seemed changed for the worse. In this romantic spot, nature and art had gone hand in hand, a combination rather uncommon in pleasure grounds. Advantage had been taken of accidental circumstances to form tasteful and characteristic combinations, and it was a matter of difficulty at first to determine what was primitive and what was the produce of design. The delusion was heightened by the total neglect. You come most unexpectedly into this shaded nook and stand upon a natural terrace above the river, which glides as calmly as possible beneath. A rustic couch of rock, festooned with moss and ivy, waits there. If adventurous feelings urge farther exploration, a discovery is made of an almost concealed, irregularly excavated passage through the solid rock. It is descended by a rude flight of stone steps called the Witches' Stairs. You emerge, as the writer put it, "sul margine d'un rio," over which depend some light and graceful trees. It is indeed a fairy scene, and the writer knew of no place where he could sooner imagine these little elves holding their moonlight revelry.

22. Votive Rags and Cattle Spancels on the Broken Cross

    near Gougane Barra · townland · Cork

    On a grassy elevation at the centre of the island's circular wall of nine cells stands the wooden remnant of a large cross braced with iron. Hundreds of votive rags and bandages are nailed and hung on it by those whose faith has cured them. Hung alongside are the spancels of cattle driven through the lake to ward off the murrain.

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    of iron. Hundreds of votive rags and bandages are nailed against it, and hung upon it, by those whose faith has made them whole, intended as acknowledgments of their cure. Also the spancels of cattle that have been driven through the lake, as a preventive against the murrain.

    Without this circular wall are the ruins of Father O'Mahony's dwelling; the gable ends and tottering chimneys still remain, covered with stonecrop, a variety of rich lichens, and that hardy little plant the London pride, which is here indigenous, and seems to grow more luxuriantly in the crevices and upon the naked rocks about Gougaun Lake, than when cultivated in a garden. The digitalis also flourishes profusely on the neighbouring mountains.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Gougane Barra, on a grassy elevation at the centre of an island, stands the wooden remnant of a large cross braced with iron. Hundreds of votive rags and bandages are nailed against it and hung upon it by those whose faith has made them whole, as acknowledgments of their cure. Hung alongside are the spancels of cattle driven through the lake as a preventive against the murrain. Outside the circular wall of nine cells are the ruins of Father O'Mahony's dwelling. The gable ends and tottering chimneys still remain, covered with stonecrop, lichens, and London pride, which grows here indigenous, more luxuriantly on the naked rocks about Gougaun Lake. Digitalis also flourishes on the neighbouring mountains.

23. Death of Mr. Jo. Foe at Kilmainham gallows

    Kilmainham · townland · Dublin · 1725

    An elegy was written on the death of Mr. Jo. Foe, who died at Kilmainham gallows on 20th October 1725, part of the tradition of dying speeches and execution ballads collected in Ireland.

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    As a companion to this, is " an elegy on the death of Mr. Jo. Foe, who unfortunately departed this life at Kilmainham gallows, October 20th, 1725."

    The first edition of the Cork Remembrancer, a book which should rather be entitled the Cork Criminal Recorder, published in 1783, and compiled by a Mr. Fitzgerald, contains the particulars of almost every execution in that city, during the preceding half century. I have been told that the author of this singular chronicle made a point of being present at the death of every criminal whose exit he has recorded, and he generally marched in the procession from the gaol to the gallows : on one occasion it is reported of Mr. Fitzgerald, that, being confined to his bed by a severe illness, he actually petitioned the judge to postpone an execution, until he was sufficiently recovered to become a spectator.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Kilmainham, a man called Mr. Jo. Foe met his end on a gallows. An elegy was written for him, recording that he departed this life on the 20th of October, 1725. These dying speeches and execution ballads were collected in Ireland as a kind of literature of the scaffold. The source that preserves this notes a parallel practice in Cork. A book called the Cork Remembrancer, published in 1783 and compiled by a Mr. Fitzgerald, recorded the particulars of almost every execution in that city during the preceding half century. Fitzgerald made a point of being present at the death of every criminal whose exit he recorded, and generally marched in the procession from the gaol to the gallows. On one occasion, confined to his bed by a severe illness, he petitioned the judge to postpone an execution until he was sufficiently recovered to become a spectator.

24. Skeleton of a King Unearthed Near Castle Martyr

    Castlemartyr · townland · Cork · 1805

    In 1805, a quarryman near Castle Martyr fell through a fissure and discovered a human skeleton adorned with thin gold plates and amber beads. Superstitious peasants seized the bones as relics of St. Colman, and tradition held that four kings had died in an ancient battle at the spot.

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    The bones of the skeleton were eagerly sought after by the superstitious peasantry, as those of St. Colman, and carried away for charms : there is a tradition in the country, of a battle having been fought near this spot in a very remote period, and of four kings having fallen in the conflict. It is, perhaps, worth remarking, that the first account

    254 CLOYNE. CHAP. XIII.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Castlemartyr, in 1805, a quarryman fell through a fissure and found a human skeleton adorned with thin gold plates and amber beads. The superstitious peasantry eagerly seized the bones as those of St. Colman, carrying them away for charms. Tradition tells of a battle fought at the spot in a very remote period, and four kings falling in the conflict.

25. The Overthrown Hospitality Stone near Dunisky

    Dunisky · townland · Cork

    Smith's History of Cork records a stone formerly set on the west side of the high road near Dunusky, not far from Macroom, inscribed in Irish directing travellers to the house of Mr. Edmund Mac Swiney for entertainment. By Smith's time the stone lay in a ditch, and the Irish said that the member of that family who overthrew it never throve afterwards.

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    the latch with the benediction, " God save all here!" is confident of receiving shelter and every rite of hospitality as far as it is in the power of the inmates to bestow them. He is welcomed to the best seat the cabin affords, the largest potatoe is selected from the dish and placed before him, and that " reserve towards strangers which alike characterize the Englishman and his mastiff," is unknown. This hospitality is not confined solely to the cottage, but seems a national trait, which those who have visited the country, whatever may be their condition, are bound in gratitude to acknowledge. Smith, in his History of Cork, tells us of a stone which was formerly set up on the west side of the high road near Dunusky, not far from Macroom, bearing an inscription in Irish, desiring all travellers to repair to the house of Mr. Edmund Mac Svviney for entertainment. " This stone," adds Dr. Smith, " now lies in a ditch, and the Irish say that the person of this family who overthrew it, never throve after." A later period has witnessed the hospitality of Mr. Mathews, at Thomastown, in the county of Tipperary, a gentleman of moderate fortune, who constructed a mansion and maintained an establishment for the reception of forty guests ; to whom, no doubt, the prolonged visit of Dean Swift, in company with Dr. Sheridan, is remembered. Intemperance is the result of indiscriminate hospitality, and it has too frequently happened, that the tranquil comforts of domestic life are sacrificed to the glory of occasional drunken triumphs. Sir Richard Cox relates an anecdote of Turlogh Lynogh, an Irish chieftain, in the reign of Elizabeth, who went to Newry to meet the Lord Deputy for the purpose of swearing submission to the Queen of England, bringing with him no less a sum than 400/. in money, " the entire of which, he and his followers spent in tippling and carousing in three days time" — " and so," continues that historian, " having received some small presents from the Deputy, he returned joyfully home," to meet the poverty occasioned by this excess : but we need not turn to the page of history for instances where acres of paternal

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dunisky there was once a stone set up beside the high road. It bore an inscription in Irish, directing all travellers to repair to the house of Mr. Edmund Mac Swiney for entertainment. This is what Smith records in his History of Cork. The stone stood not far from Macroom, a carved and public invitation, telling anyone passing where to find food and shelter. By Smith's time the stone no longer stood. He writes that it "now lies in a ditch." And the Irish said that the person of that family who overthrew it never throve after. The passage this comes from tells of hospitality as a national trait in Ireland. A stranger lifts the latch with the words "God save all here" and is confident of receiving shelter and every rite of hospitality as far as it is in the power of the inmates to bestow. He is welcomed to the best seat the cabin affords. The largest potato is selected from the dish and placed before him. That reserve towards strangers which alike characterizes the Englishman and his mastiff is unknown. The stone near here was one outward sign of that same custom. A family set up a marker on the road so that travellers would know where to find a welcome.

26. The Recluse Buried on the Shore of Gougane

    near Gougane Barra · townland · Cork · 1700

    The old walls on the island in Gougaun Lake are chiefly the work of an ascetic named O'Mahony, who withdrew from the world and lived there as a recluse for twenty-eight years. He lies buried under a little arched recess on the shore of the lake. Smith recorded a Latin inscription on the tomb of Dr. Dyonisius O'Mahony, priest, dated 1700.

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    On this island, shaded by a few fine trees, some old walls may be seen, chiefly the work of an ascetic named O'Mahony, who retired from the world, and dwelt a recluse here for eight-and-twenty years, and who lies buried under a little arched recess on the shore of the lake.

    Smith, in his History of Cork, mentions an inscription on this tomb, which I copy from that author, but could not discover the original.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on an island in the lake, stand old walls built chiefly by an ascetic named O'Mahony. He withdrew from the world and lived there as a recluse for 28 years. He lies buried under a little arched recess on the shore of the lake. Smith, in his History of Cork, recorded a Latin inscription on the tomb of Doctor Dyonisius O'Mahony, priest, dated 1700, though the original could not be discovered.

27. The Rock of the Spirit

    Carrigaphooca · townland · Cork

    A large square ruined tower above the craggy channel of the river Sullane is the Castle of Carrig a Phooky, meaning in English the Rock of the Spirit. It was a fortress of the Mac Carthies, to which the repentant Teg Mac Cormac Carty retreated after deserting to the Spaniards at Kinsale, petitioning Sir George Carew for pardon.

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    Rock of the Spirit, a fortress of the Mac Carthies, to which the repentant Teg Mac Cormac Carty retreated, after his desertion to the Spaniards at Kinsale, and from whence he petitioned Sir George Carew, the Lord President of Munster, for pardon; which was followed by the impeachment of his cousin, the Lord Muskery. A rocky stream, called the Foherish, not far distant, falls into the Sullane, and affords many picturesque subjects for the pencil.

    Macroom, eighteen miles west of Cork, is a straggling town composed almost entirely of mud cabins. Its castle, bridge and church, however, form rather a respectable group. The castle is a considerable pile, and its building has been attributed to King John, when he visited Ireland ; soon after, it became a fortress of the Mac Carthies, Lords of Muskery, and its history is identified with the fortunes of that family.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrigaphooca stands a large square ruined tower above the craggy channel of the river Sullane. This is the Castle of Carrig a Phooky, meaning in English the Rock of the Spirit, a fortress of the Mac Carthies. After his desertion to the Spaniards at Kinsale, Teg Mac Cormac Carty retreated here in repentance. From this place he petitioned Sir George Carew, the Lord President of Munster, for pardon. His petition was followed by the impeachment of his cousin, the Lord Muskery. Not far away, a rocky stream called the Foherish falls into the Sullane.

28. Lord Montgarret Marches Into Mallow, 1642

    Mallow · townland · Cork · 1641–1642

    Mallow was the scene of a smart conflict in the commotions of 1641. Lord Montgarret marched into the town with the Irish forces in February 1642, when it consisted of two hundred English houses, thirty of them strongly built and slated, besides its two castles.

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    1641, and also of 1690.* Lord Montgarret marched into it with the Irish forces in February, 1642, when the town '* consisted of two hundred English houses, thirty of which were strongly built and slated," beside its two castles.

    In the census taken this year (1821,) the number of the houses is stated to be 607, and the inhabitants 4,146.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Mallow saw conflict in the troubles of 1641. Lord Montgarret marched into it with the Irish forces in February 1642. At that time the town consisted of 200 English houses, 30 of which were strongly built and slated, beside its two castles. A census taken in 1821 counted 607 houses and 4146 inhabitants.

29. Tomb of Mayor Roynane in Youghal Church

    Youghal · townland · Cork · 1558–1603

    In the nave of St Mary's Church, Youghal, a sculptured cross without inscription is traditionally identified as the tomb of Roynane, who served as Mayor of Youghal during the early reign of Elizabeth I. The tomb was noted among many neglected and damaged monuments in the church.

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    In the nave, half concealed by one of the pews, there is another of these crosses, with a head sculptured in bold relief, and without any inscription, which I sketched as affording an uncommon difference. Tradition names it as the tomb of Roynane, who was Mayor of Youghall in the early part of Elizabeth's reign.

    There is much more to detain a monumental antiquary in this church than I have the means of enumerating, as the difficulty of getting at some tombs and the injured state of others precluded the thoughts of an effort at a complete investigation, without considerably more leisure and facilities than I could command.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Youghal, in the nave of St Mary's Church, a sculptured cross lies half concealed by one of the pews. The head is carved in bold relief, but there is no inscription. Tradition names it as the tomb of Roynane, who was Mayor of Youghal in the early part of Elizabeth's reign. The cross was sketched as affording an uncommon difference. The church held many more monuments to detain an antiquary, but some tombs were difficult to get at and others were in an injured state. A complete investigation would have needed considerably more leisure and facilities than could be commanded.

30. The Catholics Expelled from the City

    Cork · townland · Cork · 1655

    When civil government was re-established in Cork in 1655 after the cessation of hostilities, Protestant magistrates were chosen. Severe enactments were made against the Roman Catholic inhabitants, who were for a time expelled from the city.

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    On the cessation of hostilities in 1655, the civil government of Cork was re-established. Protestant magistrates were chosen, and some severe enactments made against the Roman Catholic inhabitants, who were for a time expelled the city.

    198 CORK. CHAP. X.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in 1655, after the fighting stopped, civil government was set up again in Cork. Protestant magistrates were chosen, and they made severe laws against the Roman Catholic inhabitants, who were expelled from the city for a time.

31. The Churchyard Where No Soul Is Damned

    Cloyne · townland · Cork

    An old manuscript, apparently once Sir James Ware's, records that the best bloods of Ireland chose to be buried at Cluaine (Cloyne). Through the power of the holy bishop Ryyan and the will of God, no soul harboured in a body buried under that dust could ever be adjudged to damnation, and the noble families divided the churchyard among themselves, buying their places of sepulture with grants of land.

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    " In the life of Ryyan it is sett downe, that the best blouds of Ireland have choosen their bodyes to be buried in Cluaine, which choice, for that Ryyan had such power being a holy bishop through the will of God, that what soules harboured in the bodies buried under that dust may never be adjudged to damnation, wherefore those of the said bloud have divided the church yard amongst themselves by the consent of Ryyan and his holy clearks."

    A specimen of the other parts of this manuscript, may be acceptable, as I believe it has never before been noticed, I shall therefore give a short extract with the conclusion :

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is a churchyard with a remarkable promise. An old manuscript, once Sir James Ware's, records that the best bloods of Ireland chose to be buried at Cluaine. The reason was the holy bishop Ryyan, who had such power, through the will of God, that no soul harboured in a body buried under that dust could ever be adjudged to damnation. And so the noble families divided the churchyard among themselves, with the consent of Ryyan and his holy clerks.

32. The Leper House Beneath Cork's Blue Coat Hospital

    Cork · townland · Cork · 1250–1674

    The Blue Coat Hospital in the city of Cork was built on the site of a leper house dedicated to St. Stephen, founded around 1250. The institution passed through several hands before its final suppression in 1674, when it was given to the city.

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    * The Blue Coat Hospital in the city of Cork, a public charity for the education and care of poor children, is built on the site of a leper house that was dedicated to St. Stephen. It was founded about the year 1250, and becoming vacant in 1408, was granted by Henry IV. to Henry Fygham for life, and afterwards re-granted to another of the same family ; on its final suppression in 1674, it was given to the city of Cork.

    2?0 ARCHITECTURE AND CHAP. XIV.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the Blue Coat Hospital stands on ground that once held a leper house dedicated to St. Stephen, founded about 1250. It became vacant in 1408 and was granted by Henry IV to Henry Fygham for life, then re-granted to another of the same family. On its final suppression in 1674, the property was given to the city of Cork.

33. The Melancholy Death of Miss Adams

    Cloyne · townland · Cork · 1804

    A monument in Cloyne cathedral commemorates Miss Adams, described as an accomplished and elegant young woman whose premature death was peculiarly melancholy. Croker, who knew her among his earliest circle of friends, found the monument painful to contemplate; its epitaph was written by Mrs. Hester Lynch Piozzi and dated June 1804.

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    Before erecting the present cross wall at the entrance of the choir, which was done by Bishop Agar in 1776, as the workmen dug deep in the nave to lay the foundation, they came on a row of graves rather singularly constructed, consisting of brick cells, exactly suited to the size and shape of the body contained in each, and what is rather curious one of them ended at the shoulders, nor were any of the bones of the skull to be found with the body. " It is therefore not improbable," adds Bishop Bennett, who has recorded this discovery, " that the head of the owner may have been fixed on Cork gates in the times of turbulence, as they appear in the print given us in the Pacata Hibernia to be full of such kind of trophies." I cannot leave the cathedral of Cloyne, without noticing the monument of Miss Adams, an accomplished and elegant young woman, whose premature death was peculiarly melancholy. In the circle of my earliest

    i i

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Cloyne, in the cathedral, there is a monument to Miss Adams. She was an accomplished and elegant young woman, whose premature death was peculiarly melancholy. Croker knew her in the circle of his earliest friends, and found the monument painful to contemplate. The epitaph was written by Mrs. Hester Lynch Piozzi, and dated June 1804. Before that, in 1776, Bishop Agar erected a cross wall at the entrance of the choir. As workmen dug deep in the nave to lay the foundation, they came on a row of graves rather singularly constructed, consisting of brick cells exactly suited to the size and shape of the body in each. One of them ended at the shoulders, and no bones of the skull were found with the body. Bishop Bennett, who recorded this discovery, wrote that "the head of the owner may have been fixed on Cork gates in the times of turbulence," as the Pacata Hibernia shows such trophies on the gates.

34. The Lord's Heap: A Chieftain's Cairn Above Fermoy

    near Carntierna · townland · Cork

    Rising behind Fermoy is the mountain of Cairn na Thierna, in English the Lord's heap, named from the cairn of rude stones on its summit. The monument is of remote ages and is generally believed to mark the burial place of some primitive chief.

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    English the Lord's heap, a name expressive of the Cairn or heap of rude stones on its summit, a monument of remote ages, and generally believed to mark the burial-place of some primitive chief.

    To enjoy, indeed to see the scenery of the Blackwater between Mallow and Fermoy, a tract dignified by the name of the garden of Ireland, frequent detours must be made from the carriage road, as it is otherwise impossible to form an adequate idea of the adjacent country. Sir Richard Hoare complains feelingly of this circumstance.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carntierna rises Cairn na Thierna, the Lord's heap, taking its name from the cairn of rude stones on its summit. It is a monument of remote ages, and is generally believed to mark the burial place of some primitive chief.

35. Carrigaphooca: The Phooka's Rock

    Macroom · townland · Cork

    Two castles in County Cork are called Carrig Phooka, or the Phooka's Rock, one near Doneraile and the other not far from Macroom. Their names declare them sacred to the Phooka, a spirit of lonely rocks and glens.

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    Another species of Irish fairy is the Phooka, the descriptions given of which are so visionary and undefined it is impossible to reduce them to detail. The name of many lonely rocks and glens in Ireland declares them sacred to this spirit. In the county Cork there are two castles called Carrig Phooka, or the Phooka's Rock, one near Doneraile, the other not far from Macroom ; and in the county Wicklow, the celebrated waterfall of Poula Phooka, or the Phooka's Cavern, is well known.

    Notwithstanding the universal belief in fairy influence, the credence

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Macroom stands a castle called Carrig Phooka, the Phooka's Rock. The Phooka is an Irish fairy whose descriptions are, in the words of one writer, "so visionary and undefined it is impossible to reduce them to detail." The names of lonely rocks and glens across Ireland declare them sacred to this spirit. In County Cork alone there are two castles called Carrig Phooka — one near Doneraile, this one near Macroom. In County Wicklow, the waterfall of Poula Phooka, the Phooka's Cavern, is well known too.

36. Death of Lord Broghill at Castle Martyr

    Castlemartyr · townland · Cork · 1679

    Roger Boyle, first Earl of Orrery (Lord Broghill), died at Castle Martyr on 16 October 1679. His death prompted mournful elegiac verses printed in London the following year, lamenting his passing as news that would 'terrific' the world from Cork to Rome.

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    On the 16th October, 1679, Lord Broghill (then Earl of Orrery), so frequently mentioned in this volume, died at Castle Martyr : I am induced to mention the circumstance from having procured accidentally some singular verses on his death, with other old papers, at a cottage in this neighbourhood. These verses were printed in London, for Rowland Reynolds, at the Middle Exchange in the Strand, 1680, and are entitled " Minerva's Check to the Author, for attempting to write an Elegy upon the Right Honourable and much to be lamented Roger, first Earl of Orrery." A few lines will probably be quite sufficient to satisfy the reader's curiosity :

    " That news hath wings, we every day do find, And ill doth ever leave the best behind ; Admire not then the death of Orrery, Renown'd all 's days, should in a moment flie Both far and near, the world to terrific, At Cork, at Dublin, London, and at Paris Too soon 't arrives, and Rome, but there ne'er tarries,

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in Castlemartyr, Lord Broghill died on the 16th of October, 1679. He was Roger Boyle, first Earl of Orrery, frequently mentioned in the book. The writer came upon verses on his death among old papers at a cottage near here. They were printed in London in 1680, for Rowland Reynolds, at the Middle Exchange in the Strand, under the title "Minerva's Check to the Author, for attempting to write an Elegy upon the Right Honourable and much to be lamented Roger, first Earl of Orrery." A few lines run: "That news hath wings, we every day do find, and ill doth ever leave the best behind." The verses say: admire not the death of Orrery spreading far and near, to "terrific" the world, at Cork, at Dublin, London, and at Paris, arriving too soon at Rome.

37. The Melancholy Grave at Ballintemple Burial Ground

    Ballintemple · townland · Cork

    In the small, overgrown burial ground at Ballintemple near Cork, most graves belong to humble villagers, but one grave holds a pair whose tragic fate and early death set their tombstone apart from the rest.

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    died in more opulent circumstances than their neighbours. The remains of the humble farmer and the poor fisherman occupy this secluded spot, with the exception of one grave, containing a pair whose melancholy fate and early death throw an interest over the simple tablet that marks their abode, and on which is inscribed,

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the burial ground at Ballintemple. Most of those resting here are humble farmers and poor fishermen, but one grave holds a pair whose melancholy fate and early death set their simple tablet apart from all the rest.

38. The Wart-Curing Waters of Kilcolman and Lough Au Ulla

    Kilcolman · townland · Cork

    Dr. Smith recorded that the country people used the water of the lake at Kilcolman to cure warts, and that another lake in the neighbourhood, called Lough Au Ulla, was reputed to have better success. Smith judged there was a good deal of superstition in such cures, finding nothing in the water by which they could be effected.

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    I consider Dr. Smith's County Histories as the best authorities, and yet in this instance it is difficult to reconcile what I saw with his account of Kilcolman, particularly as that author Avrites as if he had carefully examined its lake ; he tells us, that " the country people use the water to cure warts," in common with " another lake in the neighbourhood, called Lough Au Ulla, which, they say, has better success ; but there seems to be a good deal of superstition in those sort of cures, as I could discover nothing in the water whereby they might be effected."

    110 CHARLEVILLE, DONERAILE, CHAP. VI.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Kilcolman, there is a lake whose waters the country people once used to cure warts. Dr. Smith recorded this in his County Histories, and he noted another lake in the neighbourhood, called Lough Au Ulla, which people said had better success. Smith himself found nothing in the water that could effect such a cure. He judged there was a good deal of superstition in those sort of cures. He wrote as if he had carefully examined the lake, yet the author of this passage found it difficult to reconcile what he saw with Smith's account.

39. The Choked Burial Ground Behind Youghal's Chancel

    Youghal · townland · Cork

    The space between the church interior and the ancient east window at Youghal is used as a burial ground, choked with rubbish and broken grave-stones. Nettles and briars have overrun the fallen architectural fragments, and the ruined state of the tombs defeated any attempt at a full survey.

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    The church has side aisles formed by a row of Gothic arches, supported on heavy square columns ; and at the east end, close to the transepts, a wall is built across the former chancel. The space between the present interior and the ancient splendid window is used as a burial-place, and filled with rubbish and broken grave-stones, amid which the rank nettle shoots up, and the briar, in entangling embrace, flings its long arms around fallen architectural decorations. Here too are some costly monuments, particularly a sepulchral niche

    152 YOUGHALL. CHAP. VIII.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Youghal, there is a burial ground caught between the church interior and an ancient east window. A wall now blocks the old chancel. The space is filled with rubbish and broken gravestones. Nettles grow rank through the debris, and briars throw their long arms around fallen stonework. Among the ruin stand costly monuments, including a sepulchral niche. The state of the tombs is so ruined that no full account could be made of them. The dead lie under what the living have discarded.

40. The Dramatist Buried at Clonmel Church

    Cobh · townland · Cork

    Tobin, author of the comedy The Honeymoon, died in Cork Harbour while on passage to the West Indies. He lies buried at the old parish church named Clonmell, which stands about a mile from Cove.

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    The old parish church is named Clonmell and stands about a mile from Cove. Here Tobin, the dramatic writer whose comedy of the Honeymoon has long been a favourite on the British stage, lies buried ; having died in the harbour on his passage to the West Indies.

    From the hill above the town of Cove, the prospect on a clear and sunny day is extremely beautiful and animated. A sheet of water, whose extent appears capable of receiving the entire naval force of England, specked as it always is with some ships of war, and many merchant vessels at their moorings, is enlivened by the graceful movements of numerous pleasure-boats and hookers, and studded with islands of various forms and colour. Behind these to the south-west is seen the main-land of Ringaskiddy, and to the east lies Rostellan, the mansion of the Marquis of Thomond, with many other beautiful seats.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Cobh stands the old parish church of Clonmell, about a mile from Cove. Here lies buried Tobin, the dramatic writer whose comedy The Honeymoon was long a favourite on the British stage. He died in the harbour, on his passage to the West Indies. From the hill above the town of Cove, the prospect on a clear and sunny day is beautiful and animated. A sheet of water, wide enough to receive the entire naval force of England, is always specked with ships of war and many merchant vessels at their moorings. It is enlivened by the graceful movements of numerous pleasure-boats and hookers, and studded with islands of various forms and colour. To the south-west lies the mainland of Ringaskiddy, and to the east, Rostellan, the mansion of the Marquis of Thomond, with many other beautiful seats.

41. The Nettle-Covered Grave of Shane Clarah at Ballyslough

    Ballyslough · townland · Waterford · 1754

    In the cemetery of the ruined church of Ballyslough near Charleville lies the poet John M'Donald, known as Clarah or the Minstrel, who died in 1754 aged 63. His grave was found only after searching and clearing away concealing nettles from an almost defaced inscription on a small stone.

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    about the cemetery, we were departing, when a decently dressed man came up, and seeing our sketch books, observed, there was little worth our notice in the churchyard, except that " one M'Donald the poet was interred there;" after some search we found his grave, cleared away the concealing nettles, and I transcribed the almost defaced inscription on a small stone that marked the narrow bed of this unknown bard.

    i. 5. s.

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in the cemetery of Ballyslough's ruined church, lies John M'Donald, known as Clarah or the Minstrel. The poet died in 1754 aged 63. A decently dressed man said little was worth notice in the churchyard except that M'Donald the poet was interred there. After some search his grave was found. Nettles were cleared, and on a small stone an almost defaced inscription marked the narrow bed of this unknown bard.

42. A Keen for Edward Croker near Curraglass

    Curraglass · townland · Cork · 1822

    Croker owned three original Irish death-songs in manuscript, the most recent dated 21st January 1822 and made on a namesake of his own. Its English preface, by the poet William Cremon, declares that no man since the death of Captain O'Sullivan Beer Haven died so much regretted as Edward Croker, Esq. near Curriglass.

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    " I can most undoubtedly testify that since the death of Captain O'Sullivan Beer Haven, I did not see nor hear any man died so much regretted for, nor even so free from the least stain or blemish attached to his character, as the most worthy and much lamented Edward Croker, Esq. near Curriglass.

    Declared and certified by me the poet,

    Project Gutenberg #researchesinsout00crokuoft, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a keen once mourned Edward Croker. He owned three Irish death-songs in manuscript, the most recent dated 21st January 1822, made for a namesake of his own. The poet William Cremon wrote its English preface, declaring "since the death of Captain O'Sullivan Beer Haven... no man died so much regretted for" as Edward Croker near Curraglass.