St. Patrick's Purgatory, Lough Derg : its history, traditions, legends, antiquities, topography and scenic surroundings with some account of its more notable pilgrims and a detailed description of the authorised devotions performed at its venerable shrine

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. St. Patrick's cave and the Purgatory vision legend

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1600–1699

   According to a 17th-century Louvain treatise called the Mirror of Penance, St. Patrick withdrew from the world into a gloomy cave on the island and prayed that the pains of Purgatory might be revealed to him. After his request was granted, he was so awed by the vision that he ordered the island to become a terrestrial purgatory for sinners.

   Read the passage

   A plausible reason for its being called St. Patrick’s Purgatory is given in a Louvain treatise of the 17th century, called the Mirror of Penance. We are there told how St. Patrick removed from the distractions of the world into that gloomy 'oepc, or cave ; and there prayed that the pains of Purgatory might be revealed to him. His request was granted. St. Patrick was so much awed by this vision, that he departed from the cave, and ordered that henceforth the island should be made a terrestrial purgatory, where sinners could atone for their sins by prayer and fasting.

   For the origin of the Purgatory, designated by St. Antoninus Patricide Procurationis, a different cause is assigned by Mathew of Paris, whose opinion is followed by Denis the Carthusian and St. Antoninus. These authors state that St. Patrick, first Apostle of Ireland, when preaching the Gospel in that kingdom, found the people most reluctant to believe his words. They told him that they would not be converted to Christ unless he would show them those pains and pleasures of the future life of which he preached. The Saint prayed long

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 15

2. Spottiswoode's demolition of caves, chapel and Saints' Beds

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1632

   Bishop James Spottiswoode of Clogher personally led the demolition of Saints' Island in October 1632, digging out the caves, undermining the shingled chapel, and breaking down the circles and Saints' Beds described as 'like so many coal pits.' Local people expected St. Patrick to perform miracles to prevent the destruction, but none occurred.

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   “ When I could find nothing there, I undermined the Chappell, which was well covered with shingles, and brought all down together. Then we broke down the Circles and Saints’ Beds, which were like so many coal pits, and so pulled down some great Irish houses. Thus, when I had defaced all, saving one Irish house, I came out of the island myself, and left one half of my men to pull that down also as soon as they should see me landed, not sooner ; lest if by a storm we were driven back, we might want a place to shelter us.

   “The Countrie people expected that St. Patricke would have wrought some miracles; but thanks be to God none of

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 92

3. St. Patrick strikes the earth to form the cave

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   According to Matthew of Paris, whose account was followed by Denis the Carthusian and St. Antoninus, St. Patrick struck the earth with his pastoral staff, forming the Sign of the Cross, and a deep pit opened up. Those who entered truly repentant and remained a full day and night would be cleansed of all the offences of their whole life.

   Read the passage

   and fervently for that favour. Thereupon, having obtained the power of being able to manifest to the people the truth of his words, he struck the earth with his pastoral staff, forming with it the Sign of the Cross, ^ and imme¬ diately a deep pit or cave opened up, into which those who might enter truly repentant and remain there one whole day and night would be cleansed of the offences of their whole life.

   The origin of the name, however, is sufficiently ac¬ counted for by the fact that St. Patrick selected this island for the performance of those works of penance, for which he was so remarkable, and that so many saints and pious pilgrims imitated his example ; the island in con¬ sequence being called St. Patrick's Purgatory, or place of penance. This meaning is conveyed in the following sweet lines taken from Denis Florence MacCarthy’s translation of Calderon’s Purgatory of St. Patrick : —

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 16

4. O'Carolan recognizes Bridget Cruise's hand at Lough Derg landing

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   A well-authenticated tradition at Lough Derg recounts how the old and blind Turlough O'Carolan, on his return from the island, paused at the landing-place when pilgrims offered to guide him ashore. On touching an outstretched hand he exclaimed, 'This is the hand of Bridget Cruise,' recognizing his former intimate acquaintance.

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   The remains of O’Carolan (as stated in Hardiman’s Minstrelsy) await the final resurrection in Kilronan, the church of the Duigenan family, in MacDermott Roe’s vault. In his youth he became intimately acquainted with one Bridget Cruise, but he afterwards married Mary Maguire, of the Maguires of Tempo, once a noble and powerful family, but long deprived of their ancestral possessions. The well-authenticated tradition still lives at Lough Derg, how O’Carolan, when old and blind, occupied the pilgrims’ boat on his return from the island. At the landing-place a number of pilgrims were eager to offer their services to the helpless one to land. O’Carolan no sooner touched a hand stretched out to guide him, than he paused and exclaimed, “ This is the hand of Bridget Cruise.” f On this subject the late Samuel Lover has written a charming song, sung to the sweetest of airs, and entitled “ Carolan and Bridget Cruise.”

   * For ail account of his last resting-place see The Legend oj KilronaUf by “ Lageniensis” (Dublin, 1877).

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 112

5. Primate Hugh MacMahon on Lough Derg's immunity, 1714

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1714

   Writing in 1714, Primate Hugh MacMahon noted that while ecclesiastical functions had ceased throughout the kingdom due to persecution, on this island the exercise of religion remained free and public, attributing this to Divine Providence and the merits of St. Patrick.

   Read the passage

   The oldest existing institution of the Irish Church is the pilgrimage of St. Patrick’s Purgatory. It forms a connecting link between the days of St. Patrick and the present time. The penitential exercises of this pil¬ grimage constitute the most venerable, and, perhaps, the only authorised surviving instance of the early Irish religious observances and penitential discipline — a disci¬ pline under which so many saints and scholars flourished. This pilgrimage has been always regulated and conducted by the ecclesiastical authorities. It has never been in¬ terrupted, at least for any notable time. Primate Hugh MacMahon, writing of it in 1714, says : — ‘‘ Whilst every¬ where else throughout the kingdom the ecclesiastical functions have ceased, by reason of the prevailing perse¬ cution, in this island, as if it were placed in another orb, the exercise of religion is free and public, which is to be ascribed to a special favour of Divine Providence, and to the merits of Saint Patrick.”

   12

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 15

6. Iconoclasts destroy the Standing Stone at Drumawark

   Drumawark · townland · Donegal · 1879–1880

   Fearing the termon-cross fragments would be re-erected on Station Island, local iconoclasts came at night with tools, dug a trench round the Standing Stone, broke it into fragments, and buried them. By the author's visit in August 1880 only an open pit with broken fragments remained.

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   On the occasion of Father Downey’s visit to the monolith, a rumour originated that it was in contemplation to collect together the parts of the termon-cross and have them reerected on Station Island. To prevent such a step certain iconoclasts of the district came at dead of night provided with spades, bars, sledge-hammer and lantern, dug a deep trench round the stone, broke it into fragments, and buried them in

   * This storm it was which caused the tragedy at Gweedore — where several lives were lost by the flooding of Derrybeg chapel. It broke over fJweedore about three hours earlier in the day.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 39

7. Legend of the salmon woman drawn from Carnearney to Teach Dabeoc

   Carnearney · townland · Antrim

   A legend tells of a woman metamorphosed into a salmon, caught on Beoan's return from Rome, and drawn by wild oxen from Carnearney (formerly Carn Airend) in the parish of Connor, Co. Antrim, to Teach Dabeog at Lough Derg, where she was baptised by Comgall and named Muirgen. The legend implies the existence of a monastery there founded by St. Patrick.

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   been metamorphosed into a salmon, caught in a net on the return of Beoan from Rome, and drawn by wild oxen from Cam Air end, now Carnearney, parish of Connor, Co. Antrim, to Teach Dabeog, where she was baptised by Comgall, with the name Muir gen, i.e. “born of the sea.” Another name for her was Fiiinchi. This legend is given at length in Dr. Reeves’ Dovm and Connor, p. 376. From it we can learn, making due allowance for fable, the parentage of St. Beoanus, or Dabheoc, the period at which he lived, and his journey to Rome to have his rule confirmed by Pope Gregory ; we also learn that a monas¬ tery stood here at that time ; and that it was founded by St. Patrick, the name itself would iinplj^ seeing that the other foundations, styled Teach, were established by him. In proof of this may be adduced tlie following passage from the Tripartite Life, Part III., not to mention other similar passages : — “ Patrick did not visit Ardmacha on that occasion, but went into the territory of Hy-Cremthand, where he founded churches and teacha,” i.e. religious communities, or founda¬ tions.

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   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 36

8. Peak pilgrim numbers at Lough Derg during famine years

   near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1845–1849

   At the height of the famine years, 1,300 pilgrims arrived at Lough Derg in a single day—the greatest number of arrivals witnessed there on any day that century. The total for that year was estimated at nearly 30,000, with twelve to fifteen priests daily hearing confessions.

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   exceeded the average of recent years. From the year 1800 down to 1824 the average yearly number was about 10,000. The late Mr. Edward Nicholson of Beechhill, Derry, assured me that on the occasion of his first visit in 1824 there were 1,100 pilgrims on the same night in Prison’’ Chapel. From various accounts we infer that the number of pilgrims in 1824 must have exceeded 15,000. Mr. Inglis, in the Gazetteer of Ireland tells us that in 1834 the number of arrivals reached a total of 19.000.* In the beginning of the famine years there arrived in a single day the extraordinary number of 1,300 pilgrims, the greatest number of arrivals witnessed at Lough Derg on any day within this century. And we are told that during that year the total number of pilgrims could not have been much under 30,000. In those years from twelve to fifteen priests were daily engaged in hear¬ ing the confession of the pilgrims, and attending to the other Station duties.

   Since 1846 ■[* there has been a gradual decline in the arrivals each year down to 1870. For this falling off in point of numbers various reasons can be assigned ; fore¬ most amongst these being the famine of ’47, the subse¬ quent years of distress, and the consequent depopulation of our country by famine, pestilence and emigration. Another cause for the diminution may be the multiplied facilities for missions and retreats throughout Ireland ; and perhaps to some extent the lessened fervour of the faithful.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 127

9. Persecution and suppression of Lough Derg

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   Lough Derg was assailed by so-called Reformers, with special Acts of Parliament passed for its total suppression and honours offered to Protestant bishops for its abolition across several reigns. The full power of the State was brought to bear on this ancient sanctuary.

   Read the passage

   who found there a very desert of seclusion ; the number of pilgrims in every age, and of every rank and condition of life, who there trod the hard road of penance ; these and many other circumstances, perhaps of still greater force, have caused it to be esteemed as the most notable pilgrimage of the Irish Church. Its fame, too, has been greatly enhanced by the persecution with which it was assailed by the so-called Reformers. Around it, as though the last citadel of Religion in Ireland, lashed the fury of English and Scotch apostasy ; special Acts of Parliament were passed for its total suppression ; honours and rewards for its abolition were offered during several reigns to bishops of the Protestant Establishment, and other ad¬ venturers ; and the whole power of the State was brought to bear on this ancient sanctuary, with a view to its total extinction.

   The oldest existing institution of the Irish Church is the pilgrimage of St. Patrick’s Purgatory. It forms a connecting link between the days of St. Patrick and the present time. The penitential exercises of this pil¬ grimage constitute the most venerable, and, perhaps, the only authorised surviving instance of the early Irish religious observances and penitential discipline — a disci¬ pline under which so many saints and scholars flourished. This pilgrimage has been always regulated and conducted by the ecclesiastical authorities. It has never been in¬ terrupted, at least for any notable time. Primate Hugh MacMahon, writing of it in 1714, says : — ‘‘ Whilst every¬ where else throughout the kingdom the ecclesiastical functions have ceased, by reason of the prevailing perse¬ cution, in this island, as if it were placed in another orb, the exercise of religion is free and public, which is to be ascribed to a special favour of Divine Providence, and to the merits of Saint Patrick.”

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 15

10. Protestant bishops of Clogher exact pilgrim tax at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    After failing to stop the Lough Derg pilgrimage, the Protestant bishops of Clogher exacted a fine from each pilgrim for liberty to approach the shrine. The lands had been given as a perpetual endowment to the sanctuary, which held undisputed ownership for over a thousand years.

    Read the passage

    F the remuants of the feudal or penal laws, the tax, or tariff, which each Lough Derg H pilgrim must pay to the “lord of the soil,” is perhaps the most indefensible. Not content with the possession of the lands given as a perpetual endowment to this sanctu¬ ary, and of which it held undisputed ownership for over a thousand years, the Protestant bishops of Clogher, after doing their utmost (and failing,) to put a stop to the pilgrimage, conceived the idea of turning it to profitable account by exacting from each pilgrim a fine for liberty to approach the shrine of his devotion.

    * We take the following strictures from writers hostile to the pilgrimage. J. B. Doyle’s Tour in Ulster (Dublin, 1854) has it : — “ The lake is situated upon the estate of Mr. Leslie of Glasslough, County Monaghan, who derives £200 per year for the right of ferry. It has proved a profitable investment to those who have farmed it.” And Barrow’s Tour Round Ireland in 1835 thus comments : — “ But what is to be said of the proprietor, who raises a revenue of £200 or £300 a year by renting this spot ? Does he never consider when he looks upon the objects that flock to this place from the extreme parts of the island, what pain and misery they undergo in their long journey ? If he does, I should think the revenue he derives from such a source cannot afford him much gratification.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 119

11. Cavalry from Donegal advances over mountains

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1632

    According to tradition, on the morning of the monks' expulsion, a company of cavalry from Donegal was seen proceeding over the mountains towards the lake. They summarily ordered the abbot and his community of forty monks to depart.

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    however, determined to remain at their post, and calmly to await the consequences. In the meantime, familiar as they now were with such hostile visitations, they made ready for the worst, having first secreted in a safe hidingplace in the ground the more cumbrous articles of value, reserving for removal only such articles as they might bring with them without attracting the notice of the greedy soldiery. At length, after a night of sorrow and suspense, the morning of their expulsion dawned ; and as the day advanced, a company of cavalry from Donegal was descried proceeding over the mountains, and ad¬ vancing quickly towards the lake. In the most summary way they ordered the venerable abbot and his com¬ munity, which consisted of forty monks — “ all fine, able men” (as my informant interposed), to take their de¬ parture. A detachment of soldiers was directed to escort the monks as far as Portcreevy Bay, to make sure of their departure, and to prevent them from being eye-witnesses of the ruthless destruction about to befal their consecrated abode. The afflicted monks, having taken their last fare¬ well of Lough Derg, proceeded, we may suppose, to Devenish, Lisgoole, and Clones, where flourished houses of their order, and where stood guest-houses or hospices, which for centuries were largely occupied by Lough Derg pilgrims.

    As the “Abuse of Pilgrimage” (to use the phrase of the persecuting Government of that time,) still continued to flourish, the Lords Justices issued more stringent orders, on the 13th September of the same year, to have it com¬ pletely destroyed : —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Donegal town, this is where a company of cavalry set out over the mountains in 1632, advancing toward Lough Derg. The monks there had been expecting hostile visitors. They spent the night hiding their more valuable articles in the ground, keeping only what they could carry without attracting the notice of greedy soldiers. When morning came, the cavalry ordered the venerable abbot and his community of forty monks — described as "all fine, able men" — to leave at once. A detachment of soldiers escorted the monks as far as Portcreevy Bay, to ensure their departure and to keep them from witnessing the destruction about to fall on their consecrated home. The monks took their last farewell of Lough Derg and went on to Devenish, Lisgoole, and Clones, where houses of their order had guest-houses that had served Lough Derg pilgrims for centuries. That September the Lords Justices issued further orders to have the place completely destroyed.

12. Owen's vision of the perilous bridge in the cave

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1153

    Inside the cave, Owen encountered demons and witnessed torments before facing a high, narrow, slippery bridge over a river of sulphur. Crossing safely by invoking the name of Jesus, he passed from visions of hell and purgatory to a vision of celestial paradise behind a jewelled gate.

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    After the fifteen ecclesiastics had left, the Knight found himself surrounded by demons, who by various threats and blandishments tried to persuade him to return. Finding him immovable in his purpose, they conducted him from place to place where innumerable persons were enduring various torments, but at each new danger, by repeating the sacred name of Jesus, he escaped. Having thus passed intact through indescribable sufferings, he next approached the most perilous of all, namely, the transit of a bridge, which was high, narrow, and slippery as ice. This crossing was inevitable, unless he wished to return to the door of the cave from which he had set out. With slow and timid footsteps he proceeded to cross the bridge, his heart all the time centered in God, and the sweet name of Jesus on his lips. Beneath flowed a river of sulphur, from which thick fetid clouds arose, and in which great multitudes of demons were waiting to assail him. Becovering his courage he went forward until he arrived at the other side of the bridge. Here the scene completely changed. The visions of hell and purgatory gave way to that of the celestial paradise. He was led to a gate in a resplendent wall, which was set with pearls and precious stones. This heavenly sight caused him to forget

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 60

13. Twelfth-century description of the fiery Purgatory

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1100–1199

    A 12th-century geographical treatise called Image du Monde by Gnatier de Metz described a place in Ireland from which fire issued day and night, called the Purgatory of Saint Patrick. Those who entered without repentance were carried off mysteriously, while those who had confessed would pass through torments and be purified.

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    * In a geographical treatise, entitled Image du Monde, composed by Gnatier de Metz, a writer of the 12th century, may be found an instance of such exaggeration and misrepresentation. He says : — “ In Ireland there is a place from which day and night issues fire ; it is called the Purgatory of Saint Patrick, and if any persons enter it without having repented they are immediately carried off, and no one can tell what has become of them. But if they have confessed and repented, they will pass through many torments, and be purified of their sins.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 15

14. William Carleton's pilgrimage to Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1820

    William Carleton, born 1795 in the townland of Kilnahussoge, parish of Clogher, came as a pilgrim to Lough Derg in 1820. Of that journey he wrote a ludicrous account in which he himself figures as the Lough Derg Pilgrim, later retouched and published by Caesar Otway.

    Read the passage

    William Carleton himself had been in his early days an aspirant to the priesthood. Being foiled in this, and failing to obtain from Bishop Murphy an appointment to one of the diocesan burses in College, he placed himself under the patronage of Caesar Otway, and thenceforth devoted his versatile talents to ridicule not only the foibles and peculiarities of an untutored peasantry, but even the religious customs and practices of Irish Catholics.l Born in the townland of Kilnahussoge, parish of Clogher, in 1795, he came as a pilgrim to Lough Derg in 1820. Of

    * The former in his Sketches in Donegal, the latter in his Lough Derg Pilgrim.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 124

15. Legal dispute over Station Island ownership

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1881

    Sir John Leslie issued a writ claiming £200 damages and seeking an injunction against Bishop Donnelly for building on Station Island, Lough Derg, which Leslie claimed to own. The case was fixed for trial at Lifford, but settled when Leslie withdrew all claim to the island and granted a 999-year lease of the abutting water for one shilling per year.

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    the water was unavoidable. The landlord’s proprietary rights, though there be question of only a few feet of debatable land or water, must be maintained ; and so, after some desultory correspondence, the issue was knit between the plaintiff, Sir John Leslie, and the defendant. Most Rev. James Donnelly. Accordingly on the 12th of January, 1881, a writ of summons and plaint was issued against defendant in which plaintiff claimed ‘‘ £200 damages for wrongfully entering the plaintiff’s land of Station' Island, Lough Derg, in the county of Donegal, and depositing earth and materials there, and in the said lough, and building thereon. And for an injunction restraining the defendant from continuing to deposit earth and materials there, and from building thereon, and the committal of other injuries of a like kind relating to the same right.” In this proceeding the venue was fixed in Fermanagh, and the trial was to come off at the ensuing March assizes before Baron Fitzgerald and a Fermanagh special jury.

    The defendant moved that the venue be changed to Donegal, the county in which the action lay, and ulti¬ mately it was so fixed, the trial to come off at Lifford at the following summer assizes. The bishop, fully con¬ vinced that the Leslies had no valid title to the island, was still apprehensive of the result of a trial in court, being well aware how readily forgotten Statutes are raked up and decisions rendered in the landlord’s favour in such cases. He secured competent legal talent * to defend the rights of the Catholics of Ireland to their cherished pil¬ grimage. All the preliminary work entailed no small bill

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 147

16. Bishop MacMahon's disguised visitation of Lough Derg, 1714

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1714

    Dr. Hugh MacMahon, Bishop of Clogher, visited Lough Derg in 1714 disguised as a Dublin merchant because it was unsafe for a Catholic bishop to appear publicly in episcopal capacity. He composed a Relatio Status for the Sacred Congregation describing the pilgrimage in detail.

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    To give the names of all the distinguished persons who made pilgrimage to Lough Derg within the past two hundred years would, indeed, fill many a page. Although the register of them has not been preserved, yet we are able to glean from different sources the names of some of the most noteworthy. From the Irish Ecclesiastical Record, Vol. 2, No. 10 (a source upon which I have drawn for many facts and documents in this work), we learn that Dr. Hugh MacMahon, bishop of Clogher, * presented in the year 1714 to the Sacred Congregation a Relatio Status of his diocese ; and among other matters refers at length to the pilgrimage of Lough Derg, of which he made a special visitation. He came to the island of Lough Derg in the disguise of a merchant from Dublin; for, owing to the temper of the times, it was not yet safe for a bishop of the Catholic Church to appear in public in his episcopal capacity. I here subjoin a translation of the Latin copy as found in the Record, from which it will be seen that certain changes had been introduced into the ritual of the pilgrimage since the time when Peter Lombard wrote of it. This most important document, written in the year 1714, runs thus : —

    “ In the northern part of the diocese of Clogher, in a small island, completely surrounded by a lake, is situated that most celebrated place, commonly called St. Patrick’s Purgatory,

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 110

17. Carleton's birthplace in Clogher parish

    Clogher · townland · Donegal · 1795

    William Carleton was born in the townland of Kilnahussoge, parish of Clogher, in 1795. He later devoted his literary talents to ridiculing Irish Catholic religious customs and practices after failing to obtain a diocesan bursary from Bishop Murphy.

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    William Carleton himself had been in his early days an aspirant to the priesthood. Being foiled in this, and failing to obtain from Bishop Murphy an appointment to one of the diocesan burses in College, he placed himself under the patronage of Caesar Otway, and thenceforth devoted his versatile talents to ridicule not only the foibles and peculiarities of an untutored peasantry, but even the religious customs and practices of Irish Catholics.l Born in the townland of Kilnahussoge, parish of Clogher, in 1795, he came as a pilgrim to Lough Derg in 1820. Of

    * The former in his Sketches in Donegal, the latter in his Lough Derg Pilgrim.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 124

18. Father's prophetic dream saves son from 1795 drowning

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1795

    During the 1795 Lough Derg boat tragedy, a young pilgrim who had already taken his seat in the doomed boat was called back by his father, who had dreamt the previous night of a terrible fate about to befall his son. The father followed him to the lake and saved him from certain death.

    Read the passage

    over the place, and the recital of which to this day fails not to evoke from the pious pilgrims many a tear and prayer for those who met with such an untimely end. Sunday, 12th of July, 1795,^ is a day long to be remem¬ bered in connexion with Lough Derg. On that morning, which set in fresh and breezy, but by no means stormy, there was from an early hour the usual hurry and bustle about the “cabin,” or ferryhouse, amongst pilgrims and some of the neighbouring mountain residents, who were anxious to hear Mass on the island. A few boats had already taken their full complement of passengers to and fro, when the hour of eleven o’clock (the time at which the ill-fated boat left the ferry-quay for the island,) arrived. Johnston, the ferryman, had already allotted places to ninety-three passengers, all told, most of whom were pilgrims. It is said that some of the passengers took exception to the boat as being old and leaky, but their fears were made light of. A fortunate escape is related of a young man, a pilgrim, who had actually taken his seat in the boat, when his father summoned him back, as he had dreamt the previous night of some terrible fate about to befall his son, followed him to the lake, and thus saved him from certain death.

    At the hour named, MacTeague, the principal boatman (who is said to have been under the influence of drink at the time), put off from shore, and all went well until they came alongside Friars’ Island. It was then noticed that the boat had sprung a leak, and was fast taking in water.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 116

19. Ferryman Campbell's inn dispute on Station Island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1847–1870

    The ferryman Campbell obtained a site from Prior Moyna to build a large inn on Station Island and began construction, spending £100. In 1847, Leslie estate agent John Cunningham intervened, demanding an agreement and threatening to block ferrying of materials; the inn was never completed and was taken down in 1870.

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    the ferryman Campbell asked for and obtained from Prior Moyna a site for building a large inn, and forthwith commenced its erection. When the masonry was half com¬ pleted, and a sum of £100 expended upon it, Mr. John Cunningham, then newly appointed agent to the Leslie estates, came upon the scene in 1847. He required Campbell to enter into an agreement with him for the site at a nominal rent, and, in the event of refusal, threatened to prevent his ferrying material for the building across the lake. Campbell at the instance of the prior refused. So the building was discontinued and never after completed. Until 1870 it remained standing to the right of the passage from the boat-quay to St. Mary’s, when it was taken down and its site converted into an open space in front of the church. Mr. Cunningham, however, was a person not easily to be outdone. He immediately began to treat with the cabin-keepers on the island, who, by the way, were his tenants on the mainland, asking them to agree to incorporate their interests in the island cabins with those of their holdings on the mainland, and to have both cabin and farm included in one rent receipt. He likewise proposed reinstating them as tenants of their island cabins at one shilling per year each. They all replied, they could not agree to those terms without the sanction of the prior. Claiming as usual an estate in the land of the island, he summoned them to his office a second time, and threatened, if they did not submit to his will, that he would evict them from their farms on the main¬ land. They again refused unless the prior would give his sanction. One of their number, William Mulligan, soon afterwards sold to Mr. Cunningham for the sum of £12 his interest in his island cabin. Mr. Cunningham let it to one Robert Muldoon, whose occupation of it was rendered profitless, as the prior interdicted it on the spot.

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    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 133

20. French knight's pilgrimage to Lough Derg, 1516

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1516

    In 1516 a French knight came on pilgrimage to St. Patrick's Purgatory on Lough Derg. He visited O'Donnell on arrival and departure, receiving great honours and gifts, and the two formed a lasting friendship.

    Read the passage

    “ Anno 1516. A French knight came upon his pilgrimage to St. Patrick’s Purgatory on Lough Gerg, and on his arrival, and at his departure he visited O’Donnell, from whom he received great honours, gifts, and presents ; and they formed a great intimacy and friendship with each other, and the knight, upon hearing that the Castle of Sligo was defended against O’Donnell, promised to send him a ship with great guns.”

    One of the earliest notices of the Purgatory after its demolition in 1497 is to be found in the Memoirs of Sir James Melvil of Hall-Hill, who in his youth was sent by the Queen Mother of Scotland to France, to be brought up in the service of Mary, Queen of Scots. Melvil was in the suite of Jean de Monluc, bishop of Sens and French ambassador at the Scottish court, and as the latter had negotiations to conduct in Ireland, both repaired thither for that purpose. The ambassador’s business, as Melvil tells us, was “ to learn particularly the notions and likeli¬ hoods of the offers made by O’Neil, O’Donel, O’Docart, and Callock, who were willing to shake off the yoke of England and become subject to the King of France.” The bishop and suite sailed from Dumbarton in January 1545, and arrived in Lough Foyle after a long and tempestuous voyage on Shrove Tuesday, and on the following day reached O’Doherty’s house, ‘a great dark tower.’ ” Melvil, who does not appear to have visited the Purgatory himself, tells us : —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 78

21. Murder of Count Raymond at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1390–1399

    A tragic story from the late fourteenth century tells how Count Raymond, having murdered his sister Madeleine for her relationship with the knight Ugolino, was himself killed by Ugolino while praying in a cell at St. Patrick's Purgatory. The tale was reported in the Dublin Penny Journal of June 25th, 1836, and also in the Handbook of South-Western Donegal.

    Read the passage

    A thrilling story is narrated in the Dublin Denny Journal of June 25th, 1836, in reference to a tragedy, stated to have occurred at Lough Derg towards the close of the fourteenth century. We there learn how Count Raymond, and another Knight, named Ugolino, had been serving in the wars against the Moslems. Ugolino, having been instrumental in saving Raymond’s life, was invited at the close of the Crusade to accompany him to his home. There, despite their disparity of rank and family, a close intimacy sprung up between Ugolino and Ray¬ mond’s sister, Madeleine. Raymond, on discovering that they were pledged to marry, in an outburst of passion plunged his dagger into his sister’s breast, thus puttting her to death for the honour of his house. Thereupon Ugolino vowed that he would never rest until that same poignard had pierced her murderer’s breast. The story (very graphically told in the Journal referred to, and also, but more succinctly, in the ‘‘ Handbook of South-Western Donegal” by the late Monsignor Stephens of Killybegs), concludes by saying, that Raymond was praying in a cell at St. Patrick’s Purgatory, when he was confronted by the avenger of his sister’s death, Ugolino, who relentlessly put him to death with the dagger bear¬ ing the blood-stains of his murdered sister, Madeleine.

    According to a popular tradition, not uncommon among the Irish peasantry, wherever a murder or other tragic event occurs, the spot is supposed to be haunted for long after by the victim’s spirit or ghost. The tragic death of Raymond gave rise, as might be expected, to a ghost story* at Lough Derg. Local residents will tell how, till

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 71

22. Nine-day penitential pilgrimage at Lough Derg described

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Messingham describes the rigorous nine-day pilgrimage at Lough Derg, involving fasting on oaten bread and lake water, kneeling circuits around St. Patrick's Church, visits to seven stations dedicated to various saints, prayers at crosses, and a rocky path to a spot where St. Patrick knelt in prayer.

    Read the passage

    “ During the nine days of the pilgrimage,” he says, a rigor¬ ous fast was observed on oaten bread and the water of the lake. The pilgrim was first conducted barefoot to the Church of St. Patrick, around which he moved on his knees, seven times inside and seven times outside, repeating all the while stated prayers of the Church. He was then conducted to seven places, or stations, known as lecti panosi, which were formerly small churches, or sanctuaries, dedicated to various saints ; and at each of these he repeated the visit as above. The next station was around a cross in the cemetery, and subsequently at another cross that was fixed in a mound of stones. Thence he proceeded, over a rough and rocky path, to a spot on the border of the lake, to which tradition pointed as the place on which St. Patrick had knelt in prayer. Here also certain prayers were appointed to be recited. All this pilgrimage and prayer was

    128

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 85

23. Patterns' suppressed at Lough Derg shore

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The Johnston ferrymen established 'patterns' (patron-day fairs) at the shore of Lough Derg featuring music, dancing, and drinking, which brought the pilgrimage place into disrepute. Father Bellew put a stop to these gatherings and restored discipline to the pilgrimage.

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    What the particular severities and monopolies here complained of against the Johnstons were, I have not learned ; but I heard that they established “ patterns” at the shore of the lake, where music, dancing, and drinking were introduced, thus tending to bring the place into dis¬ repute, and causing great annoyance and scandal. Father Bellew, however, grappled at once with the difficulty, put a stop to those “ patterns,” and by his energy and prudence upheld the discipline and order of the pilgrimage. Unlike the first of those Johnstons, who was so harsh and severe towards the pilgrims, and who is said to have admitted to the island all visitors indiscriminately, against the orders

    188

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 121

24. Shamrock from Holy Island destined for Vatican gardens

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1879

    A shamrock taken from the Holy Island at Lough Derg was brought to Rome for presentation to Pope Leo XIII, but sickened during transit. It was left at the Irish Franciscan Convent of San Isidoro to be revived and then conveyed to the Vatican gardens.

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    “ The shamrock taken with me from the Holy Island, through confinement in my desk, had sickened and lost its leaves, though repeatedly aired by me. I, therefore, could not present it. I left it at the Irish Franciscan Convent of San Isidoro in care of one of the novices, with instructions to foster it, and when sufficiently revived, to convey it to the Holy Father, and have it planted in the Vatican gardens. They are to keep a sprig of it at St. Isidore’s also.

    ‘‘ I must plead my fatigue as excuse for the shortness of this letter, and remain, my dear Father O’Connor, truly yours in Christ,

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 1

25. St. Patrick's Church as ancient purgatorial cave

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    St. Patrick's Church on the island is called 'prison' because it serves the purpose of the ancient purgatorial cave. Pilgrims enter it on the evening of their first day and remain until the same hour the next evening, keeping strict vigil through the night.

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    The pilgrim enters prison ” {i.e. St. Patrick’s Church, so called because it serves the purpose of the ancient purgatorial cave,) the first evening after he commences his Station, and remains there until the same hour, six o’clock p.m., next evening. During the night “in prison,” strict vigil is kept ; the Stations for the following ’ day are gone through, some person well-acquainted with the routine of the exercises directing the attention of those present to the different beds or oratories, etc. ; and the intervals of the night are occupied with reciting rosaries, performing the Holy Way of the Stations of the Cross, etc.

    At six o’clock, at latest, each morning, morning prayer commences in St. Patrick’s Church, followed by the com¬ munity Mass. At twelve o’clock, noon, there is a visit to the Blessed Sacrament in St. Patrick’s Church, followed by a spiritual lecture. Each- evening at six o’clock the island bell summons the pilgrims to evening prayer in the same church, after which a sermon is preached, followed by Benediction with the Blessed Sacrament. The re¬ ligious discourses here delivered are of the most practical kind ; are well calculated to awaken in the hearts of the pilgrims a lively sense of the eternal truths, and of their religious obligations; and, being so abundantly aided by divine grace, afford the pilgrims great help in preparing for Confession and Holy Communion. The public exer¬ cises of the day are brought to a close at nine o’clock each evening by the devotions of the Way of the Cross, conducted by one of the ofidciating clergymen, and accom¬ panied by the choir. This particular devotion as carried out at Lough Derg, is so affecting and emotional that no one can form an adequate idea of it unless by assisting thereat in person. So prized and popular is it, that no

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 137

26. St. Patrick's Cross on Station Island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal

    St. Patrick's Cross, dating to at least the twelfth century, originally stood on Saints' Island and was flung into the lake by iconoclasts Balfour and Stewart. The shaft was recovered and re-erected on Station Island, where it stands near the southern gable of St. Patrick's Chapel, kept together by an iron band.

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    Derry, now deceased, reference is made to this cross in the following eloquent terms: — “The grand cross, which had it been spared by Balfour and Stewart, might take its place with the celebrated crosses of Monasterboice and Clonmacnoise, was flung into the lake, but the shaft still remained. It was taken out of the lake and erected on the island, where it remains a memorial of the past, and a testimony of the artistic skill of our forefathers.” The same writer adds, that “the cross of Lough Derg was a unique specimen of a cross, there being few of the same class to be seen in Ireland at present,”

    158 ST. Patrick’s purgatory.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 105

27. 1659 engraving of St. Patrick and the pit of fire

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1659

    A 1659 work translated from the Spanish, titled La Vie Admirable du Grand S. Patrice, contained an engraving depicting Christ standing beside St. Patrick, who holds his pastoral staff. Beneath St. Patrick appears an open pit in which souls are shown immersed in a pool of liquid fire in their purgatorial state.

    Read the passage

    * In the writer’s possession is a work written by Don Jehan Peres de Monteluan, and translated from the Spanish by F. A. S. Chartreux (Brussels, 1659), which has for its title. La Vie Admirable du Grand S. Patrice, Patriarche D' Hihernie, avec VHistoire veritable de son Jamenx et taut renomme Purgatoire, in which there is an engraving representing our Saviour standing beside St. Patrick, who holds his pastoral staff, and beneath him appears an open pit in which souls are represented in their purgatorial state immersed in a pool of liquid fire.

    14

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 16

28. Friars flee Saints Island by night

    near Saints Island · townland · Donegal · 1632

    When government orders to seize St. Patrick's Purgatory reached the area, the abbots, priests, and friars on the island escaped by night in a large boat capable of carrying forty persons. Sir William Stewart subsequently found and confiscated the boat.

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    “T have received the copy of a letter sent by my Lord Balfoure, directed to his Lordship, myselfe and others, for seizing unto his Majesty’s use St. Patrick’s Purgatory, and his Lordship appointed me to meete him near the Lough the fifth day of this month, whither I accordingly came, and staid in the comfortlesse place almost two dayes and one night, none coming. And then I got intelligence that the abbots, priests, and fryars, which were in the island, had gotten knowledge of your Lordship’s directions ; whereupon in the night time they stole out of the island in a boat, which at the least would carry forty persons. Whereupon I sent to search for the said boat, which was found and brought unto me. And perceiving that none of the rest mentioned in your Lordship’s letters were likely to come, I being confident that you would take it in good part, that I should rather upon such occasion vary from your direction than leave your intentions unperformed, I caused to land some men upon a little island, where Fryars doe inhabit, near unto the other island, which is called St. Patrick’s

    * The author of the Monasticon Hihernicum states that it was in the year 1630 the Government of Ireland decided on having it finally suppressed, and he adds — “ It was accordingly dug up, to the no small distress and loss of the Roman Catholic clergy.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 88

29. Lough Derg pilgrimage defied parliamentary prohibition

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1714

    Despite being prohibited by Act of Parliament under severe penalties, the Lough Derg pilgrimage suffered little interruption from Scotch Calvinists living in the neighbourhood. Bishop MacMahon noted that religious exercise on the island remained free and public, attributed to divine favour and St. Patrick's merits.

    Read the passage

    prodigy how this pilgrimage, though prohibited by name, in the foremost place, and under the most severe penalties by Act of Parliament, suffered little or no interruption from the bitter Scotch Calvinists living in the neighbourhood and elsewhere. When I myself visited the place, under the guise of a Dublin merchant (for under the disguise of a trader or tradesman the prelates and non-registered priests of this country generally find it necessary to conceal themselves), the minister of that district received me very kindly. Though everywhere else throughout the kingdom the ecclesiastical functions have ceased, on account of the prevailing persecution ; in this island, as if it were placed in another orb, the exercise of religion is free and public, which is ascribed to a special favour of Divine Providence, and to the merits of St. Patrick.

    “ When I was there, an English Protestant, induced by the fame of the place, and out of curiosity, came there ; and, having been moved to compunction at the sight of the penitents, forth¬ with abjured his heresy. The Franciscan Fathers, beyond all the other ecclesiastics who come there, labour the most strenu¬ ously. At this pilgrimage I remarked one custom (not to call it an abuse), namely, that they who are about to enter the cave have Mass celebrated for them, which is always a Missa de requiem, just as if they were dead to the world, and ready for sepulture ; which when I was anxious to abrogate, at least on Sundays and the principal festivals, on which should be said the Mass conformable to the office, they claimed the authority of immemorial possession and of custom to the contrary, first originated, as tradition says, by St. Patrick himself; which, being constantly asserted by learned and scrupulous men, has perplexed me, and therefore I beg to be instructed by your Eminences as to what I am to do thereon.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 111

30. O'Rourke's pilgrimage to Lough Derg and betrayal by M'Murrough

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1152–1172

    Tradition at Lough Derg holds that Tiernan O'Rourke, prince of Breffny, sought the penitential refuge of St. Patrick's Purgatory to find consolation for his troubled conscience. On returning home to his castle at Dromohair, he discovered his wife Dervorgilla had eloped with his rival M'Murrough.

    Read the passage

    lERNAN O’ROURKE, prince of Breffny,was one of the most warlike of Irish chieftains. For about half a century, from 1124 till 1172, when he met with an untimely death, he took part in the wars, predatory incurcursions, deeds of daring and bloodshed, which distracted his unhappy country, as also in the patriotic effort to resist the English invasion. In 1152, his wife, Dervorgilla, that ‘‘ degenerate daughter of Erin,” eloped with his rival, the infamous M‘Murrough. Dervorgil, after reaching the advanced age of eighty- five, closed her ill-fated career in the Convent of Mellifont, in the year 1193, after having undergone a lengthened course of penance. It is said that her elopement with M'Murrough took place whilst her husband was away on pilgrimage, and the tradition is kept at Lough Derg that O’Rourke sought the penitential refuge of St. Patrick’s Purgatory to find consolation for his troubled conscience; and, that after performing the usual round of exercises at that retreat, he returned home to his castle at Dromohair to find himself betrayed by his rival. Dr. O’Donovan, in his Donegal Letters, also refers to the same tradition. This incident is wedded to immortal verse in the well-known melody of Moore, beginning thus : —

    “ The valley lay smiling before me, Where lately I left her behind,” etc.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 64

31. Termon Cross pedestal "The Standing Stone" at Drumawark

    Drumawark · townland · Donegal · 1879

    A termon-cross in the townland of Drumawark consisted of pedestal, shaft, and Celtic cross. Father Downey described the pedestal, known locally as "The Standing Stone," as a dressed freestone with no inscriptions, standing in its original state, with the shaft having been removed some twenty years earlier.

    Read the passage

    may here observe that this termon-cross consisted of three parts, the pedestal, the shaft, and the wheel or Celtic cross. The pedestal, termed by the people of the locality “ The Stand¬ ing Stone,” escaped uninjured until the period in question. Now, as this pedestal or “ Standing Stone ” has been broken up into fragments, and is thus beyond the possibility of recognition or restoration, it is fortunate that we possess such an accurate description of it, which I shall give in Father Downey’s own words : — “ The stone, about which you wrote, is in the townland of Drumawark. It is a freestone, dressed pretty fairly, but has no inscriptions or characters upon it. It has four sides, is feet high, feet in depth, and IJ feet in width, and stands in its original state. It was a pedestal for another stone ” {i.e. the shaft of the cross), ‘‘ which was removed from it either through bigotry, or mischief-making, some twenty years ago, and broken into almost equal halves, one of which lies about a hundred yards east of the pedestal, the other about the same distance to the west of it. The shaft appears to be of a harder kind and more finely dressed than the pedestal. It is four¬ sided and stood fully four feet above the pedestal.” On the 15th of August in the following year of 1880, just as the Station had closed, I set out from Lough Derg, in company with two esteemed friends,* to examine for myself this interest¬ ing object of which Father Downey had given me the first reliable information, and also of testing the truth of the report as to the destruction of “The Standing Stone.” The afternoon was calm and sultry, not a ripple on the lake, not a breath of air to sway the branches of the fir plantation as we passed along through Ballymacavanny to the open country. Passing the cross-roads, where a bridge had been lately erected spanning the Owenea Water, a tributary of the Termon River, we turned oiOf to the left and proceeded through fields in the direction of Drumawark. We had not proceeded far when a thunderstorm burst upon the overhanging mountain of Croagh-Kinnagoe,

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 39

32. Archbishop Fleming's 1625 account of overcrowded Lough Derg pilgrimage

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1625

    Archbishop Fleming of Dublin wrote to the Internuncio at Brussels on 20 August 1625 describing how huge numbers of pilgrims flocked daily to St. Patrick's Purgatory on Lough Derg from every corner of Ireland, with many unable to land on the island for lack of room.

    Read the passage

    “The pious and innumerable pilgrimages of the faithful this year are a pledge of great fervour ; for, like bees to the beehive, there daily flock such numbers from every corner of the king¬ dom, for penitential purposes, to a certain island, which is called the Purgatory of St. Patrick, and which is situated in the centre of a lake, that many have been obliged to return without satisfying their pious desire, there being no room for landing on the island. This pilgrimage, though, through the bitter persecutions of heresy, it has been almost abandoned for many years, was once so celebrated throughout the Christian world, that many from most distant parts even of the Continent visited it in a spirit of devotion. The manner of performing the pilgrimage, as it is now observed from ancient tradition, is as follows : — Each person, from the day he arrives on the island till the tenth following day, never departs from it. All this time is, without intermission, devoted to fasting, watching, and

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 84

33. Bishop refuses restoration of Saints' Beds on Station Island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1857

    In September 1857, an American Catholic gentleman visiting Station Island offered $1,000 to restore the ancient Saints' Beds in first-class masonry. The local bishop rebuked the curator for entertaining the idea, declaring that the cells should never be altered or repaired by human hands, as touching them would destroy their value as historical monuments.

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    * With reference to the “ Beds” on Station Island, the prior relates an occurrence that came under his notice, on the occasion of a visit paid by him to the island as Curator (the duty of Curator being to watch after the safety of the place during the non- Station period) thereof, and very soon after his appointment to that office, in the September of 1857. When on the island, an American Catholic gentleman, who had taken a deep interest in all he had seen, but especially in the cells or Saints’ “Beds,” accosted him thus : — “ What a pity those venerable remains of a glorious past should remain in their present dilapidated condition. I suggest that they be forthwith thoroughly restored in first-class masonry, strictly adhering to their present plan and dimensions, and finished with a cutstone circular coping, and, if this idea be adopted, I shall place 1,000 dollars (£200) in your hands for the purpose.” The Curator, overjoyed at the offer, prudently submitted the matter to his bishop, who, to his great surprise, rebuked him for his simplicity, adding : — “ The project could not be entertained for a moment. Those cells, venerable for their antiquity, speak trumpet-tongued of the glorious past ; to touch them would be simply to destroy their value as historical monuments. Hitherto they were not altered or repaired by human hands, and never shall.” Needless to add the gentleman, who had left his address, was never called upon to fulfil his promise.

    214

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 138

34. Croagh Patrick pilgrimage stations and traditions

    near Croagh Patrick · mountain or mountain range · Mayo

    The pilgrimage station on Croagh Patrick near Westport is still held on the last Friday of summer, with about three to four hundred pilgrims annually. The first station is a stone circle on the shoulder of the mountain, and the summit contains the remains of St. Patrick's Altar, cells, and a penitential bed. St. Patrick is said to have made a forty days' retreat there, overcoming demons and contending with the angel Victor.

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    t The “station” on Croagh-Patrick, near Westport, is still held on the last Friday of Summer, though some frequent it on the 15th of August. About three or four hundred pilgrims annually visit it. On the shoulder of the mountain and within about 300 feet of the summit is the first station, in shape a stone circle, round which the pilgrims make fifteen circuits reciting a certain number of Paters and Aves. From this point to the summit the ascent is most difficult, being for a part of the way almost perpendicular. On the crown of the mountain, which is a flat plane of about half an acre in extent, are the remains of

    148

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 98

35. Cross shaft reused as lintel in 1864 rebuilding

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1864

    During the rebuilding of the presbytery in 1864, the Prior ordered a stone about 3 feet 8 inches long to be used as a door or window lintel. He later suspected this stone was the missing shaft of the ancient cross, given its peculiar dimensions and the matching characteristics of the cross head.

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    “ engaged in rebuilding the presbytery in 1864, and being badly off for stones long enough to make door and window lintels, the workmen pointed out him a stone about 3 feet 8 inches long, about 8 inches square at one end, and about 5 inches square at the other, which he ordered to have placed for a lintel, but over what door or window he does not recollect. Subsequently, on examining the head of the cross and considering the peculiarity of the stone, the idea struck him that the ‘ lintel ’ must have been its counter¬ part.”

    The stone, of which this cross is formed is schist, * which, with mica-slate, is the quality of stone commonly found in the vicinity of the lake ; the supposition being that, at this early period, the freestone quarries near Pettigo, from which the other inscribed stones at Lough Derg were taken, had not then been available.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 34

36. Local victims buried in Templecarn graveyard

    Templecarn · parish · Donegal · 1795

    Victims of the 1795 Lough Derg boat tragedy who belonged to the locality were buried in Templecarne graveyard. The sight of the dead bodies being conveyed over the mountain district for burial was heartrending, and witnesses could never after refer to it without tears.

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    All the bodies of those drowned were recovered from their watery grave. Many of them were removed by their sorrowing friends to their family burial places. About twenty or more were interred on the highest part of Friars’ Island, where a dense cluster of firs may now be seen waving their sombre plumes over their lonely grave. Others were buried in Templecarne graveyard, especially those who belonged to the locality. The sight of the dead bodies, as they were conveyed for sepulture over the mountain district, was most heartrending, and they who witnessed the spectacle (with some of whom I conversed), could never after refer to it without shudderinsc at the thought, and shedding copious tears.

    We have seen that the old cave, or caves (there being at times two or more of them) were superseded about the year 1780, by a commodious church called St. Patrick’s, which was erected not only to serve the purpose of the former Caverna^ but also for general worship. Who built this church I do not well know unless it be the Rev. Fr. Murray P.P., ErrigakTruagh, who about this period became prior in room of the Franciscans, whose reduced numbers rendered them no longer equal to the work of the pilgrimage. Whether the church was erected by prior Murray, or not, it is certain that he repaired and slated it in 1776, the year after the boat accident. He is described as of a mild and gentle disposition, and with the close of the century his term of office as prior of the pilgrimage drew also to its close.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 117

37. Lough Derg serpent legend and name change

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    A legend holds that a frightful serpent inhabited the locality of Lough Derg, spreading terror and destruction, until St. Patrick killed it. The lake's water was dyed red by the serpent's blood, changing its name from Fionn (fair or clear) to Derg (red). An ancient poem, the 'Finnian Hunt on the borders of Lough Derg,' attributes the serpent's death to 'Conan the bold' and describes it slaughtering the Fianna.

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    There are two different versions to account for the origin and meaning of the name. Lough Derg. One is founded on a legend which describes how a frightful serpent, spreading terror and destruction far and wide, inhabited this locality ; how St. Patrick on his arrival put it to death ; and how the water of the lake was dyed red by its blood ; and that thus the lake, which was previously

    * The legend of the serpent and the change of the name of the lake, in consequence of its death at the hands of “Conan the bold,” are referred to in an ancient poem, called the “Finnian Hunt on the borders of Lough Derg,” and published in the Transactions of the Ossianic Society, Vol. VI., p, 155. I extract the following stanzas : —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 19

38. Order to demolish chapel and buildings on Station Island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1632

    The Lords Justices ordered the Bishop of Clogher and sheriffs of Fermanagh and Donegal to break down, deface, and utterly abolish the chapel, Irish houses, buildings, pavements, walls, foundations, circles, caves, cells, and vaults on the island called St. Patrick's Purgatory.

    Read the passage

    great numbers to that place or island called St. Patrick’s Purgatory, there performing superstitious ceremonies, pil¬ grimages and offerings, is so extremely abusive and supersti¬ tious as is not fit to be endured, We therefore taking the same into our due consideration and foreseeing that albeit there may be a seeming cessation there for a time from those abuses and superstitions, in regard they observe the State to resent the same : Yet many times the seduced people will secretly finde opportunitie to resort thither, and so by stealth continue those superstitious abuses, while the place standeth as it now doth. We have therefore adjudged the best and fittest means to prevent and wholly take away the continuance of that abuse hereafter, that the place be defaced and utterly demolished. And, therefore, we doe hereby order and resolve that letters shall be despatched from this Board unto the Rev. Father in God, the Lord Bishop of Clogher, Sir John Dunbarre, High Sheriffe of the Countie of Fermanagh, Edward Tarleton, Esq., High Sheriffe of the Co. Donegal, Edward Archdale and Leonard Blennerhasset, Esqrs., Archibald Areskon, Clearke, or any three or more of them, whereof the said Lord Bishop, or Sir John Dunbarre or Edward Tarleton, to be always one. Requiring and authorizing them or any three or more of them as aforesaid, by or before the 3rd day of December next, to cause the chappell and all the Irish houses now scituate in that island, which is called St. Patrick’s Purgatory, all the buildings, pavements, walls, works, founda¬ tions, circles, caves, cels, and vaults thereof, of lime or stone or otherwise to be broken down, defaced and utterly abolished. And that also called St. Patrick’s Bed, as also that rocke or stone standing in the water there having a cleft in it, which (as is vainly said) St. Patricke made kneeling at his prayers ; and also that stone covered there with water which hath the print of a man’s foot, and which (as the seduced people do believe) St. Patricke made with standing thereon ; and likewise all other things there whereunto those superstitious people have used to go in pilgrimage. And that they cause all the stones

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 90

39. Parliamentarian desecration of Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1641–1650

    Parliamentarian forces landed on the holy island of Lough Derg, expelled the Franciscan friars, and defiled the Purgatorium by filling it with stones and mud. The soldiers were subsequently struck down by dysentery and a foul internal malady as divine punishment.

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    “There has existed in Ireland for fully twelve hundred years a celebrated pilgrimage to a holy island, where the Purgatory of St. Patrick has been frequented with uninterrupted devotion by great crowds of people. A great number of Parliamentarian forces, both horse and foot, having been landed on that island, expelled with summary vengeance the Franciscan Friars who had care of the holy place. And, lest anything might be wanting to their deeds of wanton desecration, they defiled the crypt itself, or the Purgatorium, and then filled it up with stones and mud. In consequence of which sacrilege they were all visited with the anger of Heaven, and died in a few days after of dysentery and a foul internal malady.”

    It would be difficult to determine whether the above passage refers to the expulsion of the monks by Sir William Stewart, or to a subsequent inroad from the Parliamentarian forces, perhaps after the fatal day of Scariff- Hollis, 21st of June, 1650.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 101

40. Pilgrim diet at Lough Derg described to Pope Leo XIII

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1879

    Archbishop Lynch of Toronto described the penitential exercises at Lough Derg to Pope Leo XIII, showing him a specimen of the oaten bread and lake water used daily by pilgrims at their solitary meal. The Pope expressed satisfaction at the pilgrims' penances and good works.

    Read the passage

    “We took the opportunity to present him with your book on Lough Derg. After reading the Dedication, which was in the Latin language, he said he regretted he could not read the book itself, it being in English. I then briefly described the great pilgrimage of St. Patrick’s Purgatory, telling of the numbers that frequent it, and the penitential exercises there practised. The Holy Father said he had already heard of this pilgrimage ; and he expressed great satisfaction at the penances and good works of the pilgrims. I showed the Sovereign Pontiff a specimen of the oaten bread, and lake water used daily by the pilgrims at their solitary meal. Hereupon he shook his head, as if he considered the dietary scale a very low

    vi THE APOSTOLIC BENEDICTION OF POPE LEO XIII.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 1

41. Votive pebbles at Cullion well near Lough Derg

    Cullion · townland · Donegal · 1845–1855

    Pilgrims completing their station at Lough Derg customarily brought rounded pebbles from the lakeshore as votive gifts to a holy well at Cullion, building up a large mound over time. Some forty or fifty years before publication, the landowner removed the stones for drainage purposes, though many pebbles could still be seen scattered about the well.

    Read the passage

    pilgrims, after completing their Station at Lough Derg, were wont to pay a visit, each one bringing with him from the shore of the lake a rounded pehble, which he left at the well as a votive gift. In the lapse of time a mound of those stones accumulated near the well, till the occupant of the land, some forty or fifty years ago, with notions of the fitness of things more “canny” than archaic, utilised the stones * for drainage purposes.

    He also endeavoured to drain the well, but to no avail, for, the spring continues still to bubble up “thick as a man’s arm : ” so my informant expressed it. Its water is said to be the only water in the neighbourhood having the same taste as that of Lough Derg, and this may be owing to the circumstance that it springs from a lead of iron ore. It has not been ascertained to what saint the well is dedicated. If, however, Cullion be a corruption of Cillene, then we may hold that it was dedicated to St. Cillene, who, as abbot of Lough Derg, died in 721. The stream from this fountain has hollowed out a ravine, or glen, in which, about forty perches south from the well. Mass used to be celebrated in the penal days. There are people still living in the neighbourhood, whose parents attended Mass there in the beginning of the present century.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 41

42. Colonel Leslie's ownership of Lough Derg island

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1825

    In 1825, Dr. Blake noted that Lough Derg island was the property of Colonel Leslie, M.P., and there was fear that if the Station were suspended for even one year, he would not allow access. The Rev. M. Bellew served as superior of the pilgrimage at that time.

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    “ 1825, April 25. — I received to-day a letter from the Right Rev. Dr. Kernan, dated Carrickmacross, April 5. In it he requests that I apply to His Eminence Cardinal della Somaglia, for a continuance of the indulgence granted to the Island of Lough Derg, to which hundreds of Catholics flock every year with the express permission and approba¬ tion of their respective pastors, and after having complied with their Paschal duty, in order to do penance and make a retreat of three, six, or nine days. The island being the property of a Colonel Leslie, M.P., it is feared that, were the Station to be suspended for one year, he would not allow access to it. The present superior of it is the Rev. M. Bellew, the bishop’s Vicar-general and Dean of the Chapter of Clogher, under whose superintendence it is morally impossible that any abuse can happen. The Station commences on the 1st of June and terminates on the 15th of August.”

    191

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon

43. Archbishop Lynch departs from Clones for Lough Derg

    Clones · town · Monaghan · 1879

    Archbishop John Joseph Lynch of Toronto, on his way to Rome, visited his native parish of Clones before travelling to Lough Derg. He was joined there by the Bishop of Clogher and several priests for the pilgrimage to Station Island.

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    The most notable event, however, of 1879 was the visit of his Grace, Most Rev. John Joseph Lynch, Archbishop of Toronto, who, on his way to Rome to pay the customary visit Ad Limina, took occasion to turn aside to visit his native land, and to make a pilgrimage to Lough Derg. At Clones (his Grace’s native parish), he was joined by the bishop of Ologher, who accompanied his illustrious friend and fellow-pilgrim to Station Island. At four o’clock, p.m., on Monday, 11th of August, the party came in view of the ferryhouse, accompanied by several priests, amongst others the Archbishop’s secretary. Father Bergin, Rev. John Beggan, S.M., Rev. M. Collier, P.P., and also Mr. O’Callaghan of Dublin. The prior deputed his two assistants to meet the illustrious visitors at the ferryhouse ; and on the voyage the Miserere^ according to island custom, was chanted, the pealing of the island bell notifying to all within reach* of its sound that an event of unusual importtance was taking place. On arriving at the boat-quay all the pilgrims on the island, including several from the United States and other distant lands, some even from the Archbishop’s diocese of Toronto, knelt down to receive a blessing from the two prelates. Immediately they, together with the accompanying priests, entered upon the Station exercises, in the first place making a visit to the Blessed Sacrament in St. Patrick’s Church, where they remained for some time engaged in prayer and meditation.

    At six p.m., the appointed hour for the evening devo¬ tions, the Archbishop, after reciting aloud with the pilgrims

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 143

44. Bishop M'Nally's visitation and rent settlement on Station Island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1853

    In 1853, Bishop M'Nally formally visited Station Island, entering each cabin and obtaining possession from each cabin-keeper to assert ecclesiastical authority against the Leslie estate agent's claims. He re-instated them at one penny annual rent, later increased to one shilling, still payable.

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    The prior, fully informed of those manoeuvres on the part of Mr. Cunningham, lost no time in communicating with the bishop. Most Rev. Dr. M‘Nally. That great prelate proved himself fully equal to the emergency. He directed the prior, in the event of the cabin-keepers yield¬ ing to the demands of the agent, to close the Station forthwith. Relations continued thus strained until 1853, W'^hen the bishop considered it his duty to make a formal visitation of the island. Vested with the insignia of his office, and accompanied by the prior and another priest as witnesses, he entered each cabin, and demanded and obtained possession from each cabin-keeper. He imme¬ diately re-instated them at an annual rent of one penny each, which rent was afterwards increased to one shilling per year, the amount still payable.

    Ever since, that rent has been paid each year by the ferry-man as well as by the rest of the cabin-keepers, and formal rent receipts in the bishop’s name given to each of them for now close on fifty years. The present worthy prior assures me that he discharged the duty of collecting those rents, and tendering those cabin-keepers the receipts in the bishop’s name, as the deputy of the then prior, in 1856, and the three succeeding years. As we shall see later on, this prompt action on the part of Dr. M‘Nally stood the island in good stead in after years.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 133

45. Calvinist destruction of Lough Derg sanctuary

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Under government orders, Calvinists desecrated and demolished the sanctuary at Lough Derg, which Primate Lombard had called the most celebrated and holy place in Ireland.

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    But the darkest day in the history of Lough Derg is drawing near, when the Calvinists, under Government orders, desecrated and demolished this sanctuary, on which Primate Lombard bestowed the distinguished title of being ‘‘ the most celebrated and holy place in Ireland when the apostate English determined to destroy that shrine of religion, where their forefathers in the Ages of Faith had done penance, where King Alfred of Northum¬ bria had prayed to St. Patrick before his return to England from the schools of Mayo and Lisgoole, and where Harold, afterwards King of England (not to speak of many other princes and nobles of that country, who had done likewise), made pilgrimage, about the year 1050, to the ‘‘miraculous cave of St. Patrick.” Of the doom which awaited Lough Derg at the hands of the Calvinists, let the following chapter bear evidence.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 85

46. Dutch monk's failed pilgrimage to St. Patrick's Purgatory

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1497

    A Canon Regular from Holland journeyed to Ireland and spent a day and night in the cave of St. Patrick's Purgatory on Saints' Island, expecting visions and sufferings, but experienced nothing. He then went to Rome and reported to Pope Alexander VI that the stories were fabrications spread by the custodians to collect alms.

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    will suffice to relate what happened to a Canon Regular from that part of Holland in which is the monastery Eymstudense, during the pontificate of Alexander VI. in 1594. This man, with the desire of greater perfection, repaired to Ireland, and having heard great things concerning the Purgatory of St. Patrick, with a lively faith and with the desire of satisfying divine jus¬ tice, asked leave of the Prior of the monastery to descend into the cave. He did go down ; and the trembling Canon every moment expected to see, hear, and perhaps also to sufiPer the horrible things which had been mentioned of the place, but after remaining an entire day and night without experiencing the slightest suffering, he was taken out the following day. He thus proved by experience that the story was all fiction on the part of the custodians of the place, who had spread these reports for the simple purpose of collecting alms from a too-credulous people. Having gone to Rome he informed the Sovereign Pontiff of all the circumstances ; and he, the Pope, ordered the Bishop of the diocese and the Prior of the monastery to have the said cave closed up with earth and stones, in order that the mistaken faith of those resorting thither should cease. This was actually done, and an authentic document confirming the fact was given to the same Supreme Pontiff.”*

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 73

47. Knight Owen's pilgrimage to St. Patrick's Purgatory

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1153

    In the twelfth century, an Irish soldier called Owen who had served as a crusader under King Stephen made a pilgrimage to St. Patrick's Purgatory at Lough Derg to find rest for his troubled soul. According to Mathew of Paris, the pilgrimage occurred in 1153.

    Read the passage

    to Lough Derg, there occurred au event which served to give this island retreat much of its Continental fame. It so happened that in the twelfth century, an Irish soldier, in various accounts called Owen, Oieo, Owain, Eogan, Euennius, or Ennius, who had served as a crusader under the standard of King Stephen, after quitting mili¬ tary service, felt remorse of conscience for the irregu¬ larities of an ill-spent life. In the account published by Monteluan the wickedness of his early life is fully detailed ; but Henry of Saltrey, Mathew of Paris, and our own countryman Colgan dismiss this part of his career with a few words only. Hearing of St. Patrick’s Purgatory, he determined on making a pilgrimage to it in order to find rest for his troubled soul.

    The narrative of the Knight Owen should be received with the proverbial “grain of salt;” for, it was written at a time when the love of the marvellous held great sway over the minds of men. Highly sensational and chivalrous

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 58

48. Legend of the Caol serpent and the reddening of Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    According to an old O'Clerigh manuscript, a monstrous serpent called the Caol spent each day on an island in Lough Derg and each night devoured produce at Gleann-na-caole near Lough Erne. St. Patrick cast his crozier at it, and its blood turned the lake red, giving Lough Derg its name.

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    “An extraordinary serpent called the ‘Caol’ was in the habit of thus passing its time. It came to Finlough (Lough Derg), each morn¬ ing, where it remained until night, and then proceeded to Gleann-nacaole, near Lough Erne, and there during the night it consumed a great deal of the produce of that locality ; until St. Patrick, the religious Champion of God, came into Ireland, and, hearing of this monster, he went straight to Finlough, where the serpent then was on an island in the lake. Immediately it took to the water, and with its devouring

    mouth open it set all the lake in commotion . Finally it

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 103

49. Penal-day Mass in ravine near Cullion well

    Cullion · townland · Donegal · 1790–1810

    A stream from the Cullion holy well hollowed out a ravine about forty perches south of the well, where Mass was celebrated during the penal days. People still living in the neighbourhood had parents who attended Mass there at the beginning of the nineteenth century.

    Read the passage

    He also endeavoured to drain the well, but to no avail, for, the spring continues still to bubble up “thick as a man’s arm : ” so my informant expressed it. Its water is said to be the only water in the neighbourhood having the same taste as that of Lough Derg, and this may be owing to the circumstance that it springs from a lead of iron ore. It has not been ascertained to what saint the well is dedicated. If, however, Cullion be a corruption of Cillene, then we may hold that it was dedicated to St. Cillene, who, as abbot of Lough Derg, died in 721. The stream from this fountain has hollowed out a ravine, or glen, in which, about forty perches south from the well. Mass used to be celebrated in the penal days. There are people still living in the neighbourhood, whose parents attended Mass there in the beginning of the present century.

    Whether St. Molaisre of Devenish lived for any period at Lough Derg, we have no means of finding out. At any rate he must have paid frequent visits there ; and, in the supposition that he followed the rule of St. Dabheoc, and that both houses were kindred communities, he may have actually dwelt for some time at Lough Derg for the twofold purpose of following the course of penance there practised by St. Patrick, and after him by St. Dabheoc, and of making himself conversant with the rule of life

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 41

50. The Standing Stone: termon-cross pedestal on Drumawark hill

    Drumawark · townland · Donegal · 1879

    An upright monolith locally known as 'The Standing Stone,' actually the pedestal of a termon-cross of Termon-Dabheoc, stood on the summit of Drumawark hill about a mile northeast of Templecarne churchyard. Rev. William Downey of Pettigo examined it and took measurements on 29 October 1879.

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    A monument, likely to attract considerable attention and described for the first time in these pages, is an upright monolith, locally known as “ The Standing Stone,” but really the pedestal of one of the termon-crosses of Termon-Dabheoc, It stood until about fifteen years ago in the centre of a green and flat circle of raised earth on the summit of a hill named Drumawark (i.e. the hill or ridge of the view), about a mile north-east of Templecarne churchyard and somewhat more than the same distance from the nearest point of Lough Derg, which lies to the west of it. Having heard of this monument, and not finding an opportunity at the time of visiting it personally, I requested Rev. William Downey, then C.C. of Pettigo, to make a careful examination of it, and to furnish me with the result of his investigation. Father Downey, with characteristic kindness, complied with my request, and on 29th of October, 1879, visited Drumawark hill and took exact measurements of the pedestal as well as of the broken shaft of the termon-cross. On the following day he wrote me the result of his search. I

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 38

51. Queen Henrietta Maria's appeal to restore St. Patrick's Purgatory, 1638

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1638

    Queen Henrietta Maria wrote to Lord Deputy Wentworth asking him to allow the devotion of St. Patrick's Purgatory to be restored after its demolition. Wentworth replied from Dublin Castle on 10 October 1638 that the place was destroyed before his arrival and lay amid the Scottish Plantations where zeal had outrun wisdom.

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    To this letter Wentworth sent a reply from Dublin Castle, dated 10th October, 1638, in which he states that the “thing itself” (mark his dread of even naming the place) “ was destroyed before his coming to the kingdom, and that he was right glad none of his counsel was in the matter.” He says that being absolutely taken away there is greater difficulty in restoring it. Besides, the place is in the midst of the great Scottish Plantations “ where some men’s zeal hath run them already beyond tbeir wits.” He next expresses an opinion that “ he may do passing wisely to let this devotion rest awhile till there may be a fitter opportunity apprehended for effecting her Majesty’s satisfaction therein.”

    One of the oldest relics of the ancient sanctuary of Lough Derg is the Cross of St. Patrick.* This un-

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 104

52. Rome inquiry into bare-knee circuits at Lough Derg beds

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1805

    A rescript from Cardinal Jugnani in 1805 revealed that Rome had received reports of pilgrims at St. Patrick's Purgatory making circuits of the 'beds' on their bare knees, raising concerns about potential scandal. The Sacred Office inquired into and corrected this practice before renewing the indulgences for the pilgrimage.

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    From the foregoing rescript we can understand with what vigilance the authorities in Rome had watched over this sanctuary, and how the report (perhaps gratuitous and groundless), which had reached them of the pilgrims here making the circuits of the beds ’’ on their bare knees, had been inquired after and corrected. After Dr. Murphy had satisfied the Sacred Office with the required information, the indulgences postulated for were granted. And when the same bishop applied a second time in 1814 t for their renewal, they were also conceded, as we

    * Father Luke Concanen, to whom reference is made in this rescript, was the first Bishop of New York. When in Rome he acted as agent to the Irish bishops, and lived in the Dominican convent attached to the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 122

53. St. MacNisse's pilgrimage to Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 500–700

    The author conjectures that St. MacNisse went on pilgrimage to St. Patrick's Purgatory on Lough Derg in expiation of his sins, and that an inscribed stone was erected in the oratory where he performed penitential works. The antiquity of the inscription (6th–7th century) supports this view.

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    The inference which I would be inclined to draw from our inscription is that St. MacNisse, in expiation of his sins, went on a pilgrimage to St. Patrick’s Purgatory on Lough Derg, and that the inscribed stone already referred to was erected in the oratory in which he performed bis penitential works; or, that a memorial church, of which this was the titulus, was soon after erected there. The admitted antiquity of the inscription which belongs to the sixth, or at latest seventh century, confirms this view. The opinion is greatly strengthened by the second inscription, or legend, which appears on a corbel-shaped font now lying on Station Island. The legend runs: —

    In the second line of this inscription a small v is inserted after the first I, which shows, as I believe, that the engraver had forgotten it till after the remainder of the inscription had been made out, and then inserted it in its present crushed-up shape. This second inscription Dr. O’Donovan saw on the occasion of his visit to Lough Derg ; and, while he regarded it as comparatively modern, he could not understand it, his conjecture being that it referred to one of the Coarbs of Termon-Daveoc.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 52

54. Ramon de Perellos received at Dublin, 1396

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1396

    In 1396, Ramon Viscount de Perellos arrived in Dublin with letters from the King of England for safe conduct to visit St. Patrick's Purgatory. He visited the Earl of March, King Richard's cousin and Viceroy in Ireland, who received him honourably but endeavoured to dissuade him from the perilous undertaking.

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    royalty of de Mortimer, ‘‘ Ramon, Viscount de Perellos, Senor de la Baronia de Seret, Knight of Rhodes, and Chamberlain to King Richard’s father-in-law, Charles VI. of France, waited on de Mortimer at Dublin. This noble¬ man arrived with letters from the King of England for safe conduct to visit the Purgatory of St. Patrick, with a retinue of twenty men and thirty horses. Ramon had been in the army of Charles V. of France ; became Master of the Horse to Juan of Arragon, where his estates lay, and that king gave him command of three galleys which he sent to aid Clement VII. After the death of Clement, Ramon served Benedict VIII. until he determined, not¬ withstanding the Papal dissuasion, to visit St. Patrick’s Purgatory in Ireland, where he expected to learn intelli¬ gence of the fate of the soul of his beloved King Juan. He tells us that at Dublin he visited the Earl of March, King Richard’s cousin, and Viceroy in Ireland, who, having perused the royal letters, received him very honourably; but endeavoured, with all his power, to dissuade him from persevering in an undertaking which he declared to be of the most perilous nature. As Ramon was not deterred by these representations, the Viceroy despatched him to Drogheda, with letters to John de Colton, who, having distinguished himself in the service of England, had been promoted from the Deanery of St. Patrick’s, at Dublin, to the Archbishopric of Armagh. De Colton also endeavourd to deter him from venturing into the territories of the northern Irish, who had made serious inroads upon the see-lands of the English Archbishop of Armagh. Ramon, persevering in his resolution, passed safely, as a pilgrim, into Donegal, where, with many others on the same mission bound, he was, he records, loaded with gifts, and escorted safely to his destination * by the native chiefs,

    * Taken from Gilbert’s History oj' the Viceroys, pp. 275-276.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 67

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Dublin, this is where Ramon Viscount de Perellos arrived in 1396 with letters from the King of England granting him safe conduct to visit St. Patrick's Purgatory. He was a Catalan nobleman, Lord of the Barony of Seret, a Knight of Rhodes, and chamberlain to Charles VI of France. He came with a retinue of 20 men and 30 horses, driven by a determination to learn the fate of the soul of his beloved King Juan of Aragon. At Dublin he waited on the Earl of March, King Richard's cousin and Viceroy in Ireland. The Earl read the royal letters and received Ramon very honourably, but then endeavoured with all his power to dissuade him from so perilous an undertaking. Ramon would not be deterred. The Viceroy then sent him on to Drogheda with letters to John de Colton, who had been promoted from the Deanery of St. Patrick's in Dublin to the Archbishopric of Armagh. De Colton also tried to stop him, warning of the northern Irish who had made serious inroads on the see-lands of the English Archbishop. Ramon pressed on regardless, passing safely as a pilgrim into Donegal, where the native chiefs loaded him with gifts and escorted him to his destination.

55. 1795 boat accident at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1795

    Before the boat accident of 1795, pilgrim arrivals each season at Lough Derg reached between ten and fifteen thousand. The catastrophe, along with other circumstances, caused the influx of pilgrims to become considerably reduced at the close of the century.

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    Hewson says that in his time (1701), “There were many priests on the island, and each day they have a sermon preached in Irish about one o’clock.” Bichardson (1727) says there were twenty-four priests engaged there every station season. But this may be an exaggeration. Skelton says that in 1770 there were about 4,000 pilgrims annually frequenting this sanctuary ; and he states that the pilgrims had then sufficient shelter and accommodation on the island. Immediately before the boat accident of 1795 the arrivals each season must have reached the high figure of between ten and fifteen thousand. That catas¬ trophe, however, with other circumstances to be noticed hereafter, caused the influx of the pilgrims at the close of the century to become considerably reduced. Yet through all its vicissitudes the Holy Island still continued to be regarded with love and veneration by those of the Irish race, who, like our national poet, Moore, desired to visit

    “ That dim lake,

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 118

56. 471 pilgrims found at St. Patrick's Purgatory

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1632

    Sir William Stewart reported finding 471 persons performing pilgrim devotions on the island of St. Patrick's Purgatory. He had all persons safely conveyed to shore without violence, as the priests and friars had already departed with provisions.

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    Purgatory, where I found foure hundred and seventy-one persons doing such fooleries (sic) as is not to be imagined could be done among Christians, a taste whereof your Lordship may perceive by this inclosed description. All the aforesaid num¬ ber of persons I have caused to be put safe to shore, which was done without any kind of violence. For, seeing the Priests and Fryars had left the island, and carried with them all manner of provisions and goods that therein was, the people were willing and desirous to be drawn on shore. The which being done, I did cause the Boate, which was the safeguard of the Island, to be drawne on shore, and delivered the same unto the friends and servants of one Master Magrath, unto whom the Boate, Island and Countrie doe belong, and told him that it was your Lordship’s directions that the same should not be meddled withal), nor the Island any more frequented until his Majestie’s pleasure were fully knowne, and that your Lordship would signify the same at large. All things being thus fairly done, I hope your Lordship will not dislike that I ad¬ ventured myself alone to do that which was trusted unto me and others. And I am well assured that if I had slipt that occasion, your intentions should not have been executed. So humbly desiring to be excused for what is done amisse, I take leave and will ever remaine

    Your Lordship’s ready and humble servant,

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 89

57. Archbishop Croke visits Lough Derg, 1879

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1879

    Archbishop Croke of Cashel visited Lough Derg on 22 July 1879, accompanied by Bishop Donnelly and several clergymen. After crossing to the island with the Miserere intoned and the island bell ringing welcome, he inspected St. Patrick's Church, the penitential oratories, and cabins, praising their suitability and neatness.

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    URING the Station Season of 1879 the attention of the public became rivetted on ^ Lough Derg, as it had not been before, and all eyes turned to admire in wonderment the austere penances performed at its sanctuary. Amongst those who longed personally to behold this venerated shrine the illustrious Archbishop of Cashel, Most Rev. Dr. Croke, merits prominent rank. He came to Lough Derg, accompanied by Most Rev. Dr. Donnelly and several clergymen, on the 22nd of July, 1879. The distinguished visitors were met at the ferryhouse by the prior and his assistant priests ; and during the passage to the island the Psalm Miserere was intoned, the island bell the while pealing forth its gladsome notes of welcome. Having reached the island, they proceeded to visit the Blessed Sacrament in St. Patrick’s Church; after which they made a minute inspection of the place, its churches, penitential oratories, cabins, etc. His Grace bestowed a meed of praise upon what he had seen, upon the churches, which he pronounced very suitable, not omitting to remark upon the good order and neatness apparent throughout.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 142

58. Campion describes the Purgatory cave, c.1570

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1570

    Father Campion, writing around 1570, described a stone closet at the east end of the island called the Purgatory, where devout people resorted for penance. Pilgrims remained inside for twenty-four hours and reported strange visions of pain and bliss. A priest later told Campion the place seemed scarcely able to contain six persons.

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    “ At the east end a door leadeth into a closet of stone, which they call the Purgatory, because devout people have resorted thither for penance, and reported at their return strange visions of pain and bliss appearing unto them. They used to continue therein four and twenty hours, which doing one while with ghostly meditations, and another while with a dreadful conscience of their deserts, they saw, as they say, a plain resembling of their own faults and virtues, with the honour and comfort thereto belonging, that one so terrible, the other so joyous, that they vainly deem themselves for the time to have sight of heaven and hell.” A little further on he adds : — “ Since writing hereof, I met with a priest, who told me that he had gone the same pilgrimage, and affirmed the order of premises ; but that he, for his own part, saw no sight in the world, save only fearful dreams when he chanced to nod, and those, he said, were exceedingly horrible ; further, he added, that the place seemed to him scarcely able to contain six persons.”

    Stanihurst writing in 1586 {Vita S. Patricii, Antwerp), says that “ in the memory of man, the persons, who enter this purgatory, are sensible of no terrors unless they should happen to fall asleep. But,” he continues, “ in the first establishing of religion (at which time miracles are gene¬ rally most frequent) it seems very likely that many strange

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon

59. Ninth-century termon-cross fragment from Drumawark

    Drumawark · townland · Donegal · 800–899

    A fragment of a termon-cross marking the boundary of Termon-Dabheoc is preserved in Templecarne churchyard. Antiquarian Mr. Wakeman dates it to the ninth century. The cross originally stood on the hill of Drumawark, about one mile northeast of Templecarne.

    Read the passage

    measurement about 66 by 22 feet. After a convenient custom, then commonly adopted, the Protestant settlers of the Termon appropriated this church to their own purposes, and it so continued to be used until a Protestant church was erected in the town of Pettigo. For ages has its churchyard been used as a place of sepulture by Pro* testants and Catholics alike. A substantial wall encloses it; and a convenieut path and gateway make it easy of access to the Lough Derg pilgrim whom curiosity may induce to turn aside for the sake of visiting it. The visitor to Templecarne will be struck with the number and variety of its monuments, on some of which strange heraldic devices and quaint inscriptions are carved. Marking a grave in Templecarne may be seen an object of much interest, being part of one^ of the termon-crosses which marked the boundary of Termon-Dabheoc. That learned antiquarian, Mr. Wakeman, holds that it is as old as the ninth century ; and closely resembles, though of smaller size, the termon-crosses of Tullagh, Co. Dublin. We shall have more to add later on regarding this remark¬ able cross. If we may credit local statements, quite a number of the gravestones of Templecarne belonged originally to the church and monastery on Saints’ Island, Lough Derg.

    Within the precincts of Templecarne churchyard, and at its western extremity, may be seen, as shown in the

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 18

60. O'Carolan's burial in Kilronan church vault

    Kilronan · parish · Roscommon

    The remains of Turlough O'Carolan, 'Last of the Bards,' await resurrection in Kilronan, the church of the Duigenan family, in MacDermott Roe's vault. O'Carolan had come to Lough Derg on pilgrimage at some unrecorded date before the publication of the handbook.

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    The remains of O’Carolan (as stated in Hardiman’s Minstrelsy) await the final resurrection in Kilronan, the church of the Duigenan family, in MacDermott Roe’s vault. In his youth he became intimately acquainted with one Bridget Cruise, but he afterwards married Mary Maguire, of the Maguires of Tempo, once a noble and powerful family, but long deprived of their ancestral possessions. The well-authenticated tradition still lives at Lough Derg, how O’Carolan, when old and blind, occupied the pilgrims’ boat on his return from the island. At the landing-place a number of pilgrims were eager to offer their services to the helpless one to land. O’Carolan no sooner touched a hand stretched out to guide him, than he paused and exclaimed, “ This is the hand of Bridget Cruise.” f On this subject the late Samuel Lover has written a charming song, sung to the sweetest of airs, and entitled “ Carolan and Bridget Cruise.”

    * For ail account of his last resting-place see The Legend oj KilronaUf by “ Lageniensis” (Dublin, 1877).

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