St. Patrick's Purgatory, Lough Derg : its history, traditions, legends, antiquities, topography and scenic surroundings with some account of its more notable pilgrims and a detailed description of the authorised devotions performed at its venerable shrine

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Saints' beds and penitential circuits at Lough Derg

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   Walking round the churches and saints' beds over the uneven rocky surface of Lough Derg conveys the idea of pilgrimage and mortal journeying. The circuits remind pilgrims of the mortified lives of the great servants of God who passed their days in rigid penance within those cells.

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   Again, are not the observances of fasting, vigil, and prayer, as here observed, in direct keeping with the constant teaching and precepts of our Divine Saviour ? And where, may we ask, are those salutary precepts so faithfully followed as on the holy island of Lough Derg ? Need we wonder, therefore, that they are such powerful helps in disposing the pilgrims for worthily receiving the Sacraments ? Next, walking round the churches and saints’ beds,” over the uneven surface of the rock, rough stones, water-gravel, etc., does it not convey the very idea of pilgrimage, and suggest very forcibly man’s mortal journeying through the desert-places of this world — of this

   vale of tears ”? In making circuits of the saints’ ‘‘ beds,” we are reminded of the mortified and penitential lives led by those great servants of God, who within those little cells, or in others of similar construction, passed the day in rigid penance, and during the night reposed their weary limbs. The circuit of his Station also reminds the pil¬ grim of that infinitely more painful journey, the Way of the Cross, over which our Blessed Lord bore, for our sake.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 154

2. Saints' Island names and early Christian history

   near Saints Island · townland · Donegal

   Saints' Island was historically known as St. Fintan's Island, but during the early Christian ages it was generally called St. Dabheoc's Island. It ranks next to Station Island in historical importance on Lough Derg.

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   Saints’ Island would appear to have been sometimes called St. Fintan’s Island, but the name by which it was generally known during the early Christian ages was St. Dabheoc’s Island. Of the islands above enumerated Inishgoosk bears the most Celtic sound, and it may be taken to mean the island of the creek or cove, on account of its formation at the western side. In point of extent or area, Inishgoosk is the largest of the islands of Lough Derg, containing 13 acres, 2 roods, and 24 perches ; while Station Island ranks but eleventh, as it comprises only 3 roods and 26 perches, statute measure.* In point, how¬ ever, of historical interest and celebrity. Station Island occupies the foremost place. Saints’ Island ranks next in importance, while the other islands t of Lough Derg merit little attention on the part of the pilgrim or historian.

   Lough Derg, ’mid its surroundings of mountain and

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 21

3. Station Island as original site of the purgatorial cave

   near Station Island · townland · Donegal

   The author regards it as certain that the original purgatorial cave existed on Station Island, then known as the 'Island of the Purgatory.' The saints' cells or oratories on Station Island show clear marks of remote antiquity, and the Martyrology of Donegal places St. Patrick's Purgatory at the eastern extremity of Lough Derg where Station Island lies.

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   That the purgatorial cave existed originally on Station Island, same as at present, we regard as certain. In the first place the saints’ cells or oratories on Station Island bear the clearest marks of a remote antiquity. Again, the words of the Martyrology of Donegal (edited by Drs. Todd and Reeves), p. 1, clearly prove that the original cave was situated where the station exercises are at present conducted, viz. on Station Island. It says : — “ Dabheog of Loch Geirg in Ulster. At the eastern extremity of that lake are St. Patrick’s Purgatory and Dabheog’s Island ; there is also a monastery in which there were Canons at the western extremity of the same lake, and from him is named Termon-Dabheog on both sides of the lake we have mentioned.” Thence it is clear that the Purgatory was situated in the eastern portion of Lough Derg, where lies Station Island. The monastery of the Augustinian Canons stood, however, on Saints’ Island, in the western division of the lake. Whilst round the entire ambit of the lake extended the termon-lands of the monastery. Further, we find, in the twelfth century, Giraldus Cambrensis affirming that in his time the cave was on the lesser island. Other writers of that period repeat the

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 76

4. St. Brendan's, Catherine's, and Columba's Beds

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   Three additional penitential beds on the island — dedicated to St. Brendan, St. Catherine, and St. Columba — are visited successively by pilgrims who perform the same penitential exercises of circuits and prayers at each.

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   The same penitential exercises are performed successively at St. Brendan’s Bed, St. Catherine’s, and St. Columba’s.

   Around the large penitential Bed, six circuits are then made on the outside, while repeating nine Paters, nine Aves, and one Creed. The Pilgrim then kneels at the first entrance of this Bed, and recites three Paters, three Aves, and one Creed.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 136

5. St. Brigid's Bed on Station Island

   near Station Island · townland · Donegal

   One of the seven oratories or beds on Station Island is dedicated to St. Brigid, the Veiled Nun of Kildare, and is called St. Brigid's Bed. Special devotion to St. Brigid at Lough Derg is evidenced by her cross, bed, and chair.

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   One of the seven oratories, or beds on the island is also dedicated to the Veiled Nun of Kildare, and is called ^‘St. Brigid’s Bed.”

   At the southern shore of the lake, just at the water’s edge, a massive block of stone will attract the notice of the visitor. This stone shows beyond question the outline and appearance of a high-backed chair. The surface of the seat, and also of the back of the “ Chair,” is smooth ; the seat is slightly concave and reclining backwards. The best view of the Chair ” presents itself as you

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 45

6. St. Mary's Church on Lough Derg

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   A pretty little church with a campanile and bell was erected on Lough Derg by Bishop Donnelly at a total cost of just over £500. The church is almost entirely devoted to housing confessionals where officiating priests labour daily reconciling sinners.

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   which it was erected, by the Most Rev. Dr. Donnelly. To those who have admired this pretty little church, with the campanile and bell hard by, erected at the same time, it will afford surprise that all cost but little over £500. In St. Mary’s Church are located a number of confessionals, where the officiating priests labour for the greater part of each day in the sacred and sublime work of reconciling sinners to God. To that sacred use and purpose the church is almost entirely devoted.

   The Presbytery, which was a substantially built and commodious house, was erected by Prior Belle w in 1816. It was afterwards, in 1860, considerably remodelled in¬ ternally ; and finally, in 1864, it was in great part rebuilt by the present Very Rev. Prior, at the cost of £164.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 124

7. Storm tragedy at Derrybeg Chapel, Gweedore

   near Derrybeg · town · Donegal · 1880

   The same thunderstorm that struck Croagh-Kinnagoe on 15 August 1880 had broken over Gweedore about three hours earlier, causing several deaths by flooding of Derrybeg chapel.

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   * This storm it was which caused the tragedy at Gweedore — where several lives were lost by the flooding of Derrybeg chapel. It broke over fJweedore about three hours earlier in the day.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 39

8. St. Patrick's cave and penitential bed at Lough Derg

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   Traditions at Lough Derg include a church dedicated to St. Patrick, his cross, his cave, and his bed of hard penance. These traditions serve as proof that he originated the penitential exercises practiced by pilgrims at the shrine.

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   Furthermore, the constant devotion to St. Patrick observed at this pilgrimage, the church there dedicated to him, his cross, his cave, his bed of hard penance, the name which has been universally assigned to the pil¬ grimage, viz., St. Patrick s Purgatory,* are all so many traditions and proofs in favour of his having hallowed by his presence this retreat, and of having originated those penitential exercises which the pious votaries to its shrine have ever since so lovingly practised.

   Although the narrative of the monk Henry of Saltrey contains many exaggerations, his statement with regard to St. Patrick’s connexion with this pilgrimage cannot be lightly set aside. Henry lived in the twelfth century.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 27

9. The ancient sycamore tree on Station Island

   near Station Island · townland · Donegal

   Station Island's only tree is an old, weather-beaten sycamore, likely two or three centuries old. Its former growth was arrested, producing a dense canopy of stunted branches, but additional soil nourished a fresh cluster forming a protective shelter for the aged trunk.

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   t This is in reality a sycamore tree, and being the only tree or shrub on Station Island, it consequently attracts some attention. It is very old, probably two or three centuries at least, and very much weather-beaten. A dense canopy of stunted branches shows where its former growth was arrested, until being nourished by additional soil it sent forth a fresh cluster of branches, which thus forms a protecting shelter for its aged trunk and its original canopy of foliage.

   J Meaning the “Farewell Hymn to Lough Derg” sung at the de¬ parture of each boat from the Island.

   Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 130

10. Unchanging penitential discipline of Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The author states that while penitential austerities elsewhere may have been modified over time, at Lough Derg the discipline remains unchanged from the time of St. Patrick and the holy cenobites who occupied the cells or beds around which pilgrims still recite devotions. The pilgrimage is compared in permanence to the mountain barrier that guards the lake.

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    Elsewhere penitential austerities may have become modified in accordance with the circumstances of the age, but at Lough Derg the discipline of penance is as un¬ changed as when St. Patrick, and the holy cenobites, who imitated his extraordinary mortification, peopled those cells, or beds, round which a moving line of pilgrims may be seen reciting their devotions throughout the Station season. The pilgrimage of Lough Derg is as unchangeable as that majestic mountain barrier which perpetually senti¬ nels its lake.

    It is a fact, upon which all are agreed, that the devotional exercises of Lough Derg possess an extraordinary efficacy in securing the necessary dispositions for worthily receiving the sacraments of Penance and the Holy Eucharist. Not rarely, too, does it happen that persons, who have attended missions or retreats elsewhere (such persons regarding the mission as only a preparatory course for properly entering on this pilgrimage), come here in order to secure that interior happiness which its exercises are so calculated to produce. Nor are there wanting many and convincing reasons to show the peculiar efficacy of its exercises. In the first place, that crucial test of the sanctity of a place, the nonne cor nostrum ardens erat in nobis, here forces itself on the mind. One feels, in this place, that he walks upon holy ground ; that here the prayer blessed by

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 153

11. Bishop Henry Jones's 1647 visit to Lough Derg

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1647

    Dr. Henry Jones, 4th Protestant Bishop of Clogher, visited the island in 1647 and reported seeing a stone cross, part broken and part standing, and in the east of the church another cross made of twigs interwoven by the friars.

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    The statement hazarded in the Irish Monthly of January, 1878, that this stone cross is the identical Clogh-Oir, is unsupported by the least tittle of evidence ; for, it is well known that the Clogh-Oir stood at the royal and eccle¬ siastical city of Clogher, where it is still pointed out leaning against the northern transept of the Protestant church there. Of this “grand old cross with its fluted shaft,” wrote Dr. Henry Jones, 4th Protestant Bishop of Clogher, who visited the island in 1647. He says : — “ He saw a stone cross, part broken, part standing, and in the east of the church was another cross, made of twigs, interwoven.” What suggestive words ! the poor friars, unable to provide a cross of stone in place of those so ruthlessly broken, were compelled to provide as a substitute a cross with “ twigs interwoven.”

    What incalculable good the Sanctuary of Lough Derg has contributed to religion and morality since its origin, and with what oil of comfort it has soothed the bleeding wounds of our persecuted country during the long and dismal penal times, will never be fully realised until the great Accounting Day. The learned Balmez, in his European Civilization, speaking of the advantages ren¬ dered to society by the retreats of the solitaries, and by pilgrimages thereto, justly says : —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 106

12. Daniel Campbell of Pettigo, church contractor

    Pettigo · town · Donegal · 1835

    In 1835, Rev. Prior Moyna enlarged St. Mary's Church on Lough Derg by adding an aisle. The contractor for the improvements was Daniel Campbell, a builder from Pettigo, who carried out the construction work.

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    The church erected by Father O’Doherty in 1763 was taken down in 1813, and a new church, also called St. Mary’s, erected a little to the east of it by the Pev. Patrick Bellew, then prior, afterwards parish priest of Monaghan and Dean of Clogher. In 1835 the Rev. Prior Moyna, enlarged this church by the erection of an aisle, the contractor for the improvements then effected being the late Daniel Campbell, builder, Pettigo. This church underwent additional repairs in 1860 : and in 1870 it was found necessary to have it entirely taken down, when it was replaced by a very substantial and handsome Gothic edifice, erected through the exertions of the present worthy prior. St. Mary’s, thus erected after tbe design, and by the exertions of Canon M‘Kenna, and solely with the aid of voluntary contributions of the pilgrims, was dedicated in August, 1870, the year in

    extract from the diary of Dr. Michael Blake, bishop of Dromore, as found in a notice of his life from the pen of Rev. M. Russell, S.J., in the h'ish Monthly for 1882: —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 123

13. Kilbroney cross resembles Station Island cross

    Kilbroney · townland · Down

    The ancient cross fragment on Station Island bears a striking resemblance to the old cross of Kilbroney, near Rostrevor, due to the absence of a clasping circle and the presence of hollow cuttings at each of the angles, features found only on crosses of the earliest date.

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    * The measurements of this mutilated cross are — head, 1 foot ; arms, 1 foot 9 inches ; width of stone, 6 inches ; depth, 4 inches. At each of the four points of intersection there is a hollow cutting like the concave arc of a circle, which is but rarely found on old crosses, and only on those of the earliest date. The circle, instead of entwining the arms, as in the case of modern Celtic crosses, is raised in relief on the disc or space between the arms. In the absence of this clasping circle, it presents, together with the hollow cutting at each of the angles, a striking resemblance to the old cross of Kilbroney, near Rostrevor.

    42

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 34

14. Leslie family purchases Termon-Magrath (Pettigo estate), 1836

    Pettigo · town · Donegal · 1836

    On 16 July 1836 a deed was executed whereby trustees of the Leslie family purchased the fee-simple of the Pettigo estate, or Termon-Magrath, from Bishop Tottenham and the Ecclesiastical Commissioners for £4,508 6s. 4d., subject to an annual fee-farm rent. The estate comprised 49 sessiaghs fully described in Hill's Plantation of Ulster.

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    continued in possession of the lands of Termon-Magrath under what is known as a bishop’s lease, i.e. a lease for 21 years, renewable for a like term on payment of a fine.* On the 16 th July, 1836, a deed was executed between Dr. Tottenham, Protestant bishop of Clogher, the Eccle¬ siastical Commissioners, and Christina Powell Leslie, and John Francis Fosberry (the two latter being trustees of the will of Charles Powell Leslie, 2nd,) whereby the said trustees agreed to purchase the fee-simple of the Pettigo estate, or Termon-Magrath, the amount of purchase being £4,508, 6s. 4d., the lands to be subject to the annual fee-farm rent of £461, 10s. 9Jd. The total purchase paid for that extensive estate of 49 sessiaghs, which are fully described with their metes and bounds in Hill’s Plantation of Ulster, not far exceeds its present annual rental. The Leslie family having thus become closely connected with the ancient patrimony of Lough Derg, occasional references to that family in the sequence of this narrative will be the more readily understood.

    We gather from what has been already said how much this place of pilgrimage had exercised the zeal of the Protestant bishops of Clogher. To effectually put a stop to this devotion they regarded as their paramount duty. Dr. James Spottiswoode is said to have written a treatise regarding it, intituled St. Patrick's Purgatory. His successor, Dr. Henry Jones, also took it to task in his Patrick, his Purgatory (London, 1647). Richardson in his Folly of Pilgrimages (Dublin, 1727), acknowledges in the preface to that work, the helps he received from the “ present and late bishop of Clogher, the draught of the whole island, and all the superstitious things in it

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 108

15. Papal Indult of 1870 grants plenary indulgence to Lough Derg pilgrims

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1870

    Pope Pius IX granted a plenary indulgence on 26 June 1870 to all the faithful who, after confession and communion, visited St. Patrick's Purgatory at Lough Derg and offered prayers for the propagation of the faith. The indult was issued through the Sacred Congregation de Propaganda Fide.

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    “Our Most Holy 'Father Pius IX., by Divine Providence Pope, at the representation of me, the undersigned Secretary of the Sacred Congregation de Propaganda Fide^ has graciously prolonged the concession of a plenary indulgence to be gained by all the faithful, who, having confessed and being nourished by the Holy Eucharist, shall have visited the above-mentioned sanctuary, commonly called the Purgatory of St. Patrick, and there, during some space of time, shall have offered up pious prayers to God for the propagation of our holy faith, and according to the intention of the Sovereign Pontiff.

    “ Given at Rome, from the Oifice of said Sacred Congregation, on the date and year above named.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 141

16. St. Brigid's Chair on Lough Derg shore

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 500–520

    A rock formation on the shore of Lough Derg, known to locals as 'St. Brigid's Chair,' is associated with a tradition that St. Brigid visited the area and rested there while viewing the island hermitage of St. Dabheoc. The seat overlooks Station Island and Saints' Island.

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    approach by water within a few oars’ distance of it. The natives call it “St. Brigid’s Chair”* to this day.

    Here can be had a good view of Station Island and of Saints’ Island as well, together with the expansive sheet of water of Lower Lough Derg ; whilst a more solitary spot, or one more suggestive of soothing thoughts and devout meditation could hardly be found.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 46

17. St. Fintan's Island in Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    One of the islands of Lough Derg was dedicated to St. Fintan and was known as St. Fintan's Island, though which island is no longer known. Whether this was St. Fintan of Clonenagh or another of the seventeen saints of that name remains undetermined.

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    A St. Fintan would appear to have been numbered among the patrons of Lough Derg. One of its islands (which of them we have no means of finding out,) had

    . * Father Shearman, in a letter of February 10th, 1879, does not consider this conjecture to be well-founded. He says, “Abel MacAedha is, I believe, the name of some abbot, with the patronymic, which has no connection with Dabheon — de-Beoan=:oc, unless you compose the name in the same way as that of the patron of Ardcairne, near Boyle, Beoanus, i.e. Beo-Aedh = vivax. But that is a too much-strained

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 44

18. 1814 Relatio Status notes indulgence at St. Patrick's Purgatory

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1814

    Dr. Murphy, Bishop of Clogher, made a Relatio Status in 1814 recording that the Holy See had attached an indulgence to the visit of St. Patrick's Purgatory at Lough Derg. This was cited in the later petition to Pope Pius IX as precedent for renewing the indulgence.

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    “According to the Relatio Status^ made in 1814 by Dr. Murphy, Bishop of Clogher, the Holy See had attached an indulgence to the visit of the Purgatory of St. Patrick.

    “ Hence Petitioner begs that your Holiness will be pleased to grant a plenary indulgence, applicable to the souls in Purga¬ tory, to all the faithful who, having previously received the Holy Sacraments of Confession and Communion, visit the said sanctuary, and who repeat toties quoties the aforesaid practice of Holy Communion during the exercises.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 141

19. Ancient remains and traditions at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The text defends the Patrician origin and antiquity of St. Patrick's Purgatory at Lough Derg against Dr. Lanigan's dismissal. It cites ancient remains, inscriptions, traditions, and references in old Irish writings pointing to St. Patrick, St. Dabheoc, and other holy abbots who presided over the monastic and penitential retreat there.

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    As most of the monasteries laid desolate during the Danish wars were, repeopled by Canons Regular, the custom gradually obtained of calling their monastic pre¬ decessors Canons Regular, and in this way St. Patrick himself was called a Canon Regular, and his feast as such regularly observed in their order. Had Dr. Lanigan made allowance for this intelligible and, in the circum¬ stances, pardonable fiction ; or, had he, like the Spanish critic Feijoo, only made a closer study of the subject, we would be spared the sweeping and uncalled for strictures already quoted. Had Dr. Lanigan been only aware of the ancient remains, inscriptions and traditions at the place, as well as the references in the ancient Irish writings pointing to St. Patrick, St. Dabheoc, and other holy abbots, who presided over this monastic and peni¬ tential retreat, he would have been spared the opprobrium of assailing the origin and antiquity of this venerable pilgrimage. Jocelyn, also, impugns the Patrician origin of Lough Derg, for the sole reason, as it would appear, that it detracts from the fame of his favourite pilgrimage of Croagh-Patrick, that of Lough Derg having been established, as he sa3^s, by the Augustinians in opposition

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 57

20. Augustinian hospice at Clones for Lough Derg pilgrims

    Clones · town · Monaghan

    Clones was one of the houses of the Augustinian order where the expelled Lough Derg monks may have gone. It had guest-houses or hospices that for centuries were largely occupied by Lough Derg pilgrims.

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    however, determined to remain at their post, and calmly to await the consequences. In the meantime, familiar as they now were with such hostile visitations, they made ready for the worst, having first secreted in a safe hidingplace in the ground the more cumbrous articles of value, reserving for removal only such articles as they might bring with them without attracting the notice of the greedy soldiery. At length, after a night of sorrow and suspense, the morning of their expulsion dawned ; and as the day advanced, a company of cavalry from Donegal was descried proceeding over the mountains, and ad¬ vancing quickly towards the lake. In the most summary way they ordered the venerable abbot and his com¬ munity, which consisted of forty monks — “ all fine, able men” (as my informant interposed), to take their de¬ parture. A detachment of soldiers was directed to escort the monks as far as Portcreevy Bay, to make sure of their departure, and to prevent them from being eye-witnesses of the ruthless destruction about to befal their consecrated abode. The afflicted monks, having taken their last fare¬ well of Lough Derg, proceeded, we may suppose, to Devenish, Lisgoole, and Clones, where flourished houses of their order, and where stood guest-houses or hospices, which for centuries were largely occupied by Lough Derg pilgrims.

    As the “Abuse of Pilgrimage” (to use the phrase of the persecuting Government of that time,) still continued to flourish, the Lords Justices issued more stringent orders, on the 13th September of the same year, to have it com¬ pletely destroyed : —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 90

21. Augustinian hospice at Lisgoole for Lough Derg pilgrims

    Lisgool · townland · Leitrim

    Lisgoole was one of the houses of the Augustinian order where the expelled Lough Derg monks may have gone. It had guest-houses or hospices that for centuries were largely occupied by Lough Derg pilgrims.

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    however, determined to remain at their post, and calmly to await the consequences. In the meantime, familiar as they now were with such hostile visitations, they made ready for the worst, having first secreted in a safe hidingplace in the ground the more cumbrous articles of value, reserving for removal only such articles as they might bring with them without attracting the notice of the greedy soldiery. At length, after a night of sorrow and suspense, the morning of their expulsion dawned ; and as the day advanced, a company of cavalry from Donegal was descried proceeding over the mountains, and ad¬ vancing quickly towards the lake. In the most summary way they ordered the venerable abbot and his com¬ munity, which consisted of forty monks — “ all fine, able men” (as my informant interposed), to take their de¬ parture. A detachment of soldiers was directed to escort the monks as far as Portcreevy Bay, to make sure of their departure, and to prevent them from being eye-witnesses of the ruthless destruction about to befal their consecrated abode. The afflicted monks, having taken their last fare¬ well of Lough Derg, proceeded, we may suppose, to Devenish, Lisgoole, and Clones, where flourished houses of their order, and where stood guest-houses or hospices, which for centuries were largely occupied by Lough Derg pilgrims.

    As the “Abuse of Pilgrimage” (to use the phrase of the persecuting Government of that time,) still continued to flourish, the Lords Justices issued more stringent orders, on the 13th September of the same year, to have it com¬ pletely destroyed : —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stood an Augustinian house at Lisgoole, one of several where monks of that order flourished. It had guest-houses or hospices which for centuries were largely occupied by Lough Derg pilgrims. The connection to Lough Derg runs deep. When soldiers came over the mountains from Donegal to expel the community there, the venerable abbot and his 40 monks, described as "all fine, able men," were ordered to leave. A detachment of soldiers escorted them as far as Portcreevy Bay, to make sure of their departure and to keep them from seeing the destruction of their consecrated home. The expelled monks may then have made their way to Devenish, Lisgoole, and Clones, where houses of their own order stood ready to receive them. So this place you are passing was likely a refuge for those displaced men, and for generations of pilgrims before them, a known shelter on the road to and from the lake.

22. Bishop Leslie establishes residence at Glaslough

    Glaslough · town · Monaghan · 1661

    Dr. John Leslie, appointed Protestant Bishop of Clogher by Charles II, fixed his residence at Glasslough in County Monaghan and became the founder of the Leslie family, whose lineal representative was Sir John Leslie, Bart.

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    Dr. Spottiswoode was succeeded by Dr. Henry Jones, on whose translation to Meath in 1661, Dr. John Leslie was appointed to Clogher by Charles II. He fixed his residence at Glasslough in the county of Monaghan, and became the founder of the family, whose present lineal representative is Sir John Leslie, Bart. From Dr. Leslie’s time down to the year 1836 his descendants have

    * See Rev. W. H. Bradshaw's EnnUhillen Long Ago.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 108

23. Cross in eastern wall of St. Patrick's Church

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    When the pilgrim stands with outstretched arms in front of the cross set in the eastern wall of St. Patrick's Church on Lough Derg, it signifies having renounced the devil, the world, and the flesh, and being prepared to take up his cross and follow Christ.

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    the heavy load of the cross up the rugged ascent to Calvary. And when the pilgrim stands with outstretched arms in front of the cross, set in the eastern wall of St. Patrick’s Church, does he not thereby signify that, having renounced the devil, the world, and the flesh, he is prepared to take up his cross and follow in the footsteps of his Divine Master ?

    By going into “ prison,” or the fast-cave, or sepulchre, as it is variously termed, the pilgrim is reminded that being now dead to the world and its vanities, and having buried, so to sa}^ his past transgressions, he may rise again to the supernatural life of grace, or to a higher degree of per¬ fection. The ablution, usually performed after leaving “ prison,” is expressive of the interior cleansing which the penitential works of the Station and the reception of the Sacraments operate in the soul of the pilgrim.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 154

24. Fir plantation near Lough Derg planted 1847

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1847

    A plantation of firs was planted in 1847 along the Pettigo road to Lough Derg, and some islands were afforested the same year. The trees relieved the stern aspect of the landscape where eagles and wild geese once abounded over a century earlier.

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    Nearing the lake by the route from Pettigo, the visitor will discern a fine plantation of firs, skirting the roadway for some distance. Those trees planted in 1847, together with some of the islands afforested in the same year, tend to relieve the surrounding scene of much of its stern aspect. Thus, where eagles and wild geese (as Richardson states,) used to abound over a century ago, the sweet notes of the feathered songsters of the grove may now be heard.

    Upon a spur of mountain within the area of this fir plantation, the landlord made preparations some twenty years since to erect a Shooting Lodge. Beyond construct¬ ing an avenue (branching off to the left from the Lough Derg road,) to its site, and sinking its foundations, the lodge remains in stain quo.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 132

25. Fort (líos) on Drumawark summit

    Drumawark · townland · Donegal

    A fort, or líos, on the summit of Drumawark is listed as one of the chief objects of interest in the neighbourhood of Templecarne. The hill also formerly held a termon-cross marking the boundary of Termon-Dabheoc.

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    masonry, and measures from floor to centre of arch, 7-J feet; width at entrance, about 6 feet; depth, feet; depth of altar table, feet. From this old churchyard can be had an extensive and varied view of Lough Erne and its many islands, with the Fermanagh and Leitrim mountains forming an imposing back-ground to a picture, which has hardly a parallel in this land of scenic charms. In the neighbourhood of Templecarne the chief objects of interest are, the fort, or Up, on the summit of Drumawark

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 18

26. Foundation of Augustinian Abbey at Armagh

    near Armagh · town · Armagh · 1126

    Imar, Archbishop of Armagh, introduced the Augustinian canons to Ireland around 1126 and placed them in charge of an abbey he founded at Armagh dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul.

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    Some time after the rout and expulsion of the Danes, religious of the Augustinian order -were introduced into Ireland. They took possession of the ruined cloisters of Lough Derg, Devenish, Clones, and many others through^ out the country. Imar, Archbishop of Armagh, is said to have been the first to introduce them into Ireland, about the year 1126, and to have put under their charge the abbey founded by him at Armagh, and placed under the invocation of the Apostles SS. Peter and Paul. It is asserted that the monastery occupied by these venerable canons at Lough Derg was also dedicated to the same holy Apostles. Ware states that this house of the Augustinian Canons at Lough Derg, according to the Register of John Bole (sometime Archbishop of Armagh, and who died anno 1470), is called “ the filial place of the monastery of the Apostles Peter and Paul of Armagh.”

    With the introduction of the Canons Regular of St. Augustine^ the second epoch in the history of Lough Derg is reached, which as far excelled the glory of the first, as the third epoch, dating from the post-Reformation period, is destined, we hope, to transcend the glory of both. Under the pious Canons life was again infused into the withered bones, pilgrimage to Lough Derg received a fresh impetus, and the sanctuary soon shone forth in brighter lustre than previously. The Canons Regular continued in charge at Lough Derg for about five

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 56

27. Ghost tradition arising from Raymond's death

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Following the murder of Raymond at Lough Derg, local tradition held that the spot was haunted by the victim's spirit, consistent with a widespread Irish peasantry belief that wherever a murder or tragic event occurs, the place is haunted long after.

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    According to a popular tradition, not uncommon among the Irish peasantry, wherever a murder or other tragic event occurs, the spot is supposed to be haunted for long after by the victim’s spirit or ghost. The tragic death of Raymond gave rise, as might be expected, to a ghost story* at Lough Derg. Local residents will tell how, till

    * In a collection of poems by T. D. M‘Gee, and published by Mrs. Sadlier, New York, 1869, there is an interesting legend of Lough Derg, entitled the “ Penitence of Don Diego Riaz.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 71

28. James I grants Lough Derg monastery site to Robert Leicester

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1604–1610

    In 1604, James I granted the site of the monastery of Lough Derg and the lands of Termon-Magrath, along with other estates, to Robert Leicester. In 1610, Termon-Magrath and Termon-O'Mongan were conferred upon James Magrath.

    Read the passage

    E have already seen that the property conferred by our pious ancestors upon the religious community of St. Dabheoc at Lough Derg was known for many centuries under the name of Termon-Dabheoc. Its area comprised 30,000 acres, and it was valued hy Griffith at <£8,500 per annum. About the fourteenth century, the Magraths having become termoners of those church lands, it came to be known as Termon- Magrath. In the 38th year of Queen Elizabeth, Donagh Magrath, chieftain of Termon-Magrath, and his eldest son, Milerius, the apostate Franciscan friar, surrendered to the Queen the lands of Termon-Magrath and Termon- O’Mongan for the purpose of reducing the lands to English tenure, and with intent that they should be regranted to Donagh for life, with remainder to Miler, and to Miler’s sons in succession. In the same year they were so granted.* In the year 1604 the site of the monastery of Lough Derg, and the lands of Termon- Magrath with other estates, were granted by James I. to Robert Leicester.! In 1610, Termon-Magrath and Termon-O’Mongan were conferred upon James Magrath,

    * Vide Morrin’s Calendar, Vol. 2, pp. 361-362. t See Erck’s Patent Rolls, p. 107.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 107

29. Magrath's Castle near Pettigo

    Pettigo · town · Donegal

    Magrath's Castle near Pettigo, the residence of the hereditary guardian of the termon, is distinguishable from the standpoint of Drumawark. It is associated with the guardianship of the sanctuary boundary of Termon-Daveog.

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    As to the view from Drumawark, nothing can be finer. From its hill the first glimpse of Lough Derg was ob¬ tained by the travel-stained pilgrim. A view of Lough Erne, extending from Enniskillen to Belleek, can be had from it. The monastic buildings of Devenish are clearly in sight, and, of old, signals by beacon lights could be easily kept up from it with Lough Derg. Magrath’s Castle, near Pettigo, the residence of the hereditary

    * On the night of this vandal outrage, certain persons, half a mile to the south of Drumawark, observed a light at “The Standing Stone,” and the strokes of the sledge-hammer were distinctly heard by several. Those in the locality entirely exonerate from all complicity in the act the tenant of the farm on which the monument stood, but suspicion founded on circumstantial grounds points to the perpetrators of the dastardly deed.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 40

30. Recovery of Devenish Island from Lord Hastings

    Devenish · townland · Fermanagh · 1621–1644

    Bishop Spottiswoode recovered the Isle of Devenish from Lord Hastings, along with the greatest part of the Island of Inishmore from Sir Ralph Goore, lands his predecessor Bishop Montgomery had never possessed.

    Read the passage

    SOU of Miler Magrath, subject to a chief rent of £10 yearly. This James Magrath, it might seem, connived at the pilgrimage, if we take him to be the same person as that referred to by Richardson, who says that in 1727 there stood in the south-eastern part of Station Island an altar, called “St. Patrick’s Altar,” with an old cro^s having a circle on it, and the inscription. Jacobus McGrath fieri fecit, 1632, Of this inscription I failed to find any trace on the island. The Auchinleck MSS. state that James Magrath afterwards disposed of his interest in the termonlands to Dr. Spottiswoode, Pro¬ testant bishop of Clogher, appointed to Clogher 1621, and who died in 1644. The extract from the Auchinleck MSS. is as follows: — “ Nowe had the Bishoppe ” (Dr. Spottiswoode) “got eight or nyne Townelandes lying contigue to his new howse in Clogher, which he destinat to be a perpetuall Demesnes for his succeeding Bishopps, and gott an Act of Estate past thereon. He recovered also other lands, his predecessor, Bishopp Montgomerie, never was in possession of ; as, namelie, the Isle of Devenish from the Lord Hastings ; the greatest part of the Island of Inishmore, from Sir Ralph Goore, Baronet ; the lands of Termon Grathe, from James Magrath, etc.”* Thus did those possessions become part of the see lands of the Protestant bishops of Clogher.

    Dr. Spottiswoode was succeeded by Dr. Henry Jones, on whose translation to Meath in 1661, Dr. John Leslie was appointed to Clogher by Charles II. He fixed his residence at Glasslough in the county of Monaghan, and became the founder of the family, whose present lineal representative is Sir John Leslie, Bart. From Dr. Leslie’s time down to the year 1836 his descendants have

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 108

31. Sisters of St. Louis attend pilgrims at Lough Derg Hospice

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1882–1885

    The Sisters of St. Louis from the Monaghan Convent undertook the care of pilgrims in the newly completed Hospice on Station Island, Lough Derg, for the first few seasons after its opening in 1882. Some sisters took up temporary residence on the island, managing the Hospice, adorning altars, and conducting the island choir.

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    The Hospice, though almost completed during the summer of 1881, was not open for the reception of pil¬ grims until the following Station Season of ’82. The Sisters of St. Louis of the Monaghan Convent, with a charity redounding to their credit, generously undertook the duty of looking after the wants of the pilgrims in the Hospice for the first few seasons, and for that purpose

    LOUGH DERG.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon

32. Stanihurst on the Purgatory terrors, 1586

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1586

    Writing in 1586, Stanihurst stated that in living memory pilgrims entering the purgatory at Lough Derg experienced no terrors unless they fell asleep. He suggested that in the early days of the institution, when miracles were most frequent, many strange and terrible sights likely appeared before the eyes of penitents.

    Read the passage

    Stanihurst writing in 1586 {Vita S. Patricii, Antwerp), says that “ in the memory of man, the persons, who enter this purgatory, are sensible of no terrors unless they should happen to fall asleep. But,” he continues, “ in the first establishing of religion (at which time miracles are gene¬ rally most frequent) it seems very likely that many strange

    120

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33. St. Brigid's Chair at Lough Derg shore

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    A massive block of stone at the southern shore of Lough Derg, at the water's edge, clearly resembles a high-backed chair. The seat surface is smooth, slightly concave, and reclining backwards, giving the stone the appearance of a chair.

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    At the southern shore of the lake, just at the water’s edge, a massive block of stone will attract the notice of the visitor. This stone shows beyond question the outline and appearance of a high-backed chair. The surface of the seat, and also of the back of the “ Chair,” is smooth ; the seat is slightly concave and reclining backwards. The best view of the Chair ” presents itself as you

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 45

34. St. Dabheoc's Bell at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    A square bronze bell, purported to be St. Dabheoc's Bell, was once preserved on one of the altars at Lough Derg. The bell's current whereabouts are unknown, but it may be the same bell found by Ludovicus Pyrrhus among the ruins on Saints' Island.

    Read the passage

    The bell said to have been found in the ruins on Saints’ Island by Ludovicus Pyrrhus, was probably the bell of St. Dabheoc. I have heard that many years ago a square bronze bell, purportiog to be St. Dabheoc’s Bell, was pre¬ served on one of the altars at Lough Derg ; but there is no longer any trace or record of its whereabouts. If this be the bell found by Ludovicus Pyrrhus, which is very likely, and if it be true that in Mr. Richardson’s time it was preserved in the “ College of Dublin ” (i.e. Trinity College), I think it may be hereafter identified.

    * In the registry of Irish Parish Priests, aiino 1704, I find the name of Rev. Art MacCullen thus recorded: — “Art MacCullin ; place of abode, Derryroan ; age, fifty-eight ; parish, Came” {i.e. Templecarne); “time of receiving popish orders, about May 1670 ; received orders at Dublin from Oliver Plunket, Titular Primate of Ireland.” — See L'ish Eccl. Recordy Vol. 12.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 102

35. St. Patrick's Cross devotional station

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    St. Patrick's Cross, situated near St. Patrick's Church on the island, serves as the starting point for the pilgrimage station. Pilgrims kneel there and recite one Pater, one Ave, and the Creed before proceeding to other devotional sites.

    Read the passage

    The Pilgrim then proceeds to “ St. Patrick’s Cross,” near the same Church, and, kneeling, repeats there one Pater, one Ave, and Creed.

    Next he goes to “St. Bridget’s Cross,” where, kneeling, he recites three Paters, three Aves, and one Creed.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 136

36. The Cavevna Purgatorii on Station Island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal

    Before the erection of St. Patrick's or 'Prison Chapel,' pilgrims performed their vigil and meditation in a narrow vault on Station Island known as the Cavevna Purgatorii. This vault was eventually discontinued as the place of vigil.

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    The church here spoken of is St. Mary’s Church, which, between demolitions and restorations, always maintained its position on Station Island, and on or about the site of the present St. Mary’s. At that time it was the only church of the pilgrimage, as St. Patrick’s, or “ Prison Chapel,” was not erected for many years after, and not until the narrow vault, called the Gavevna Purgatorii, was discontinued as the place of vigil and meditation.

    Six years after the second demolition of the Purgatory, Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I. of England, wrote a letter to the ill-fated Lord Stafford, who was then Lord Deputy, asking him to use his best efforts to allow the devotion of St. Patrick’s Purgatory to be no longer dis¬ allowed, that such a favour on his part would give her great satisfaction, and that he would hUve no reason to repent of having done her so great a service. In the letter the Queen adds that she commissioned the Earl of Antrim to treat with him on the subject, and she concludes by reminding him how grateful she would be on every occasion for such a particular favour. The letter, which is very interesting, will be found in the Ulster Journal of Archaeology, and is well worthy of reproduction.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 104

37. Belfast man Mr. Henry's annual pilgrimages to Lough Derg

    near Belfast · city · Antrim

    A worthy Belfast man named Mr. Henry organised a band of pilgrims and made a yearly pilgrimage to Lough Derg for at least fifty years. This is cited as an example of the many repeat pilgrims drawn by the holy attractions of the place.

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    Instances are numerous, where persons, drawn by the holy attractions of the place, repeat the pilgrimage year after year. Mr. Nicholson, already mentioned, came here annually for fifty-six years. A worthy Belfast man, Mr. Henry, with an organised band of pilgrims, made a yearly pilgrimage for at least fifty years. Many others will be met with who have been there twenty or thirty

    198

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 129

38. Bishops' meeting at Clonmacnoise, 1649

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 1649

    Thadeus O'Clery, Vicar-General of Raphoe and Prior of St. Patrick's Purgatory, attended a meeting of bishops and ecclesiastics at Clonmacnoise in 1649. He subscribed to the meeting's decrees as Procurator of the Bishop of Raphoe.

    Read the passage

    there is a letter, taken from the Rinuccini MSS., written in 1660 by the Bishops and Clergy of the Province of Armagh in defence of the illustrious Primate, Edmund O’Peilly, against the accusations of Peter Walsh and other agents of the English faction. Among the signa¬ tories to this letter, the seventh name on the list is that of “ Thadeus O’Clery, S.T.D., Vicar-General of Raphoe, Protonotary Apostolic, and Prior of St. Patrick's Purga¬ tory.” The same dignitary was present at a meeting of the Bishops, and other ecclesiastics, held at Clonmacnoise in 1649, and subscribed its decrees as Procurator of the Bishop of Raphoe. Others, too, we may admit, of the Raphoe clergy administered occasionally to the wants of the pilgrimage ; and to this may be ascribed the tradition that at one time the pilgrimage was con¬ ducted by the clergy of Raphoe. But, we must bear in mind that in those troublous times extensive jurisdiction was conferred upon Irish missionaries, and that the field of their zeal and labours was not even confined to one diocese, but often extended over several dioceses ; as an instance of this we find the name of Rev. Dominick Bradley, or O’Brullaghan, a zealous priest of the diocese of Derry (of whom more hereafter), recorded as having frequently visited St. Patrick’s Purgatory, and actively engaged in its station duties.

    When the community of the Franciscan monastery of Donegal were forced to abandon their cloisters in 1601, the greater part of them found a home and a refuge in Louvain, Brussels and Antwerp, still some remained behind in their native country, hoping that the dawn of better days might witness their restoration to their plundered abode by the banks of the Eske. Of these, we may infer, some extended the consolations of religion to their afflicted countrymen, and even volunteered their

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 100

39. Bishop Spottiswoode's demesne lands at Clogher

    near Clogher · town · Tyrone · 1621–1644

    Protestant Bishop Spottiswoode of Clogher acquired eight or nine townlands contiguous to his new house in Clogher, destined as a perpetual demesne for succeeding bishops, and secured an Act of Estate to that effect. He also recovered lands his predecessor never possessed.

    Read the passage

    SOU of Miler Magrath, subject to a chief rent of £10 yearly. This James Magrath, it might seem, connived at the pilgrimage, if we take him to be the same person as that referred to by Richardson, who says that in 1727 there stood in the south-eastern part of Station Island an altar, called “St. Patrick’s Altar,” with an old cro^s having a circle on it, and the inscription. Jacobus McGrath fieri fecit, 1632, Of this inscription I failed to find any trace on the island. The Auchinleck MSS. state that James Magrath afterwards disposed of his interest in the termonlands to Dr. Spottiswoode, Pro¬ testant bishop of Clogher, appointed to Clogher 1621, and who died in 1644. The extract from the Auchinleck MSS. is as follows: — “ Nowe had the Bishoppe ” (Dr. Spottiswoode) “got eight or nyne Townelandes lying contigue to his new howse in Clogher, which he destinat to be a perpetuall Demesnes for his succeeding Bishopps, and gott an Act of Estate past thereon. He recovered also other lands, his predecessor, Bishopp Montgomerie, never was in possession of ; as, namelie, the Isle of Devenish from the Lord Hastings ; the greatest part of the Island of Inishmore, from Sir Ralph Goore, Baronet ; the lands of Termon Grathe, from James Magrath, etc.”* Thus did those possessions become part of the see lands of the Protestant bishops of Clogher.

    Dr. Spottiswoode was succeeded by Dr. Henry Jones, on whose translation to Meath in 1661, Dr. John Leslie was appointed to Clogher by Charles II. He fixed his residence at Glasslough in the county of Monaghan, and became the founder of the family, whose present lineal representative is Sir John Leslie, Bart. From Dr. Leslie’s time down to the year 1836 his descendants have

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 108

40. Illustrious bishops pilgrimage to Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    During the nineteenth century numerous bishops visited Lough Derg as pilgrims, including Dr. McGettigan of Raphoe, Dr. Durcan of Achonry, Dr. McLaughlin of Derry, Dr. Kilduff of Ardagh, and Archbishop McGettigan of Armagh, along with successive bishops of Clogher who made canonical visitations.

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    During the present century many illustrious pilgrims and visitors have been to Lough Derg. Foremost amongst them may be recorded the following prelates — Dr. Patrick M^Getbigan, bishop of Paphoe ; Dr. Durcan, bishop of Achonry; Dr. MLoughlin, bishop of Derry; Dr. Kilduff, bishop of Ardagb ; Most Pev. Daniel M‘Gettigan, Arch¬ bishop of Armagh ; and in addition the successive bishops of Clogher, in whose diocese the sanctuary is situated, and who periodically made a canonical visitation of the Island. Besides those distinguished prelates, a large number of the clergy of Ireland, and not a few from other countries also, have made during this century a pilgrimage to Lough Derg, some even choosing it as the place of their annual ecclesiastical retreat. Members, likewise, of the various religious orders within the three kingdoms visit this sanctuary time after time, and express their great admiration, not only at the earnest piety and penitential spirit evinced by the pilgrims, but also at the order, regu¬ larity and efficiency with which the devotional exercises of

    the Station are conducted. It mav interest our readers to

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 126

41. Killoe synod of 1660 and the Prior of St. Patrick's Purgatory

    Killoe · parish · Longford · 1660

    At a synod of the ecclesiastical province of Armagh held at Killoe in the diocese of Ardagh on 8 October 1660, the Prior of St. Patrick's Purgatory of the Canons Regular was listed among attendees, demonstrating the Augustinian connection to Lough Derg persisted decades after the 1632 demolition.

    Read the passage

    + That the Augustinians held some connection with Lough Derg aa late as 1660 would appear from a list of those who assisted at a Synod of the ecclesiastical province of Armagh, held at Killoe, diocese of Ardagh, 8th October, 1660, and amongst others the following : — “The Prior of St. Patrick” {i.e. St. Patrick’s Purgatory) “of the Canons Regular, the Prior of Devenish of Canons Regular, the procurator of the Abbot of Clones of the Canons Regular.” Vide that repertory of historical documents, Cardinal Moran’s Spicilegium Ossoriense, Vol. II., p. 196.

    + On the 6-in. Ordnance Survey Map of the territory of Termon- Dabheoc, some two or three miles in a south-western direction from Lough Derg a place named “ Bohogue-na-Canon” is marked. Here some of the Augustinians, expelled from Saints’ Island, may have tarried for a time and erected there a little oratory for the celebration of the divine mysteries, awaiting an opportunity (not to be realised,) of returning to their ruined abode on Saints’ Island.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 92

42. Pilgrim ferry charge increased from 6½d to 8d at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    A fine of 6½d was imposed on each Lough Derg pilgrim for the 'right of way' to the island, unchanged within living memory until 1868. That year, ferryman Thomas Flood requested the bishop approve an increase to 8d per ticket due to bad seasons, which was granted.

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    In order to make up the rent, a fine of 6Jd. was formerly imposed on each pilgrim for the “ right of way ” to the island. Within living memory that charge of 6Jd,

    186

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 120

43. Recovery of Inishmore from Sir Ralph Goore

    near Inishmore · island or archipelago · Fermanagh · 1621–1644

    The greatest part of the Island of Inishmore was recovered by Bishop Spottiswoode from Sir Ralph Goore, Baronet, as part of his acquisition of lands not previously held by his predecessor.

    Read the passage

    SOU of Miler Magrath, subject to a chief rent of £10 yearly. This James Magrath, it might seem, connived at the pilgrimage, if we take him to be the same person as that referred to by Richardson, who says that in 1727 there stood in the south-eastern part of Station Island an altar, called “St. Patrick’s Altar,” with an old cro^s having a circle on it, and the inscription. Jacobus McGrath fieri fecit, 1632, Of this inscription I failed to find any trace on the island. The Auchinleck MSS. state that James Magrath afterwards disposed of his interest in the termonlands to Dr. Spottiswoode, Pro¬ testant bishop of Clogher, appointed to Clogher 1621, and who died in 1644. The extract from the Auchinleck MSS. is as follows: — “ Nowe had the Bishoppe ” (Dr. Spottiswoode) “got eight or nyne Townelandes lying contigue to his new howse in Clogher, which he destinat to be a perpetuall Demesnes for his succeeding Bishopps, and gott an Act of Estate past thereon. He recovered also other lands, his predecessor, Bishopp Montgomerie, never was in possession of ; as, namelie, the Isle of Devenish from the Lord Hastings ; the greatest part of the Island of Inishmore, from Sir Ralph Goore, Baronet ; the lands of Termon Grathe, from James Magrath, etc.”* Thus did those possessions become part of the see lands of the Protestant bishops of Clogher.

    Dr. Spottiswoode was succeeded by Dr. Henry Jones, on whose translation to Meath in 1661, Dr. John Leslie was appointed to Clogher by Charles II. He fixed his residence at Glasslough in the county of Monaghan, and became the founder of the family, whose present lineal representative is Sir John Leslie, Bart. From Dr. Leslie’s time down to the year 1836 his descendants have

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 108

44. Station season dates at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1497–1881

    The pilgrimage station season at Lough Derg has been regulated since at least the closing of the cave in 1497. The season was narrowed in 1869 and again adjusted in 1881 due to increasing pilgrim numbers, settling on 1st June to 15th August.

    Read the passage

    closed on the 15tli August. This would seem to have been the Station season at least since the closing of the cave in 1497. During the present century, however, the station opened on 1st of June and closed on the 15th of August. In 1869 the time was still further limited from 1st of July to 15th August. But in the year 1881, owing to the incrfase in the number of pilgrims, it was deter¬ mined to revert to the former Station period, so that the Station season now extends from 1st June to 15th August,* during which period the prior and his assistants will be found in attendance.

    We have already seen that the pilgrimage or station, according to modern custom, lasts for three days, though some continue their station for six, and even for nine days. It is customary for the pilgrims to arrive fasting, and to perform at least one station before partaking of food ; hence it is that most of the pilgrims arrive in the earlier part of the day. Should the pilgrim not arrive fasting, this will necessitate his remaining an additional night on the island, as he cannot commence the Station until the morrow of his arrival. During the pilgrimage three Stations are performed each da3^ For the convenience and guidance of the pilgrims a large number of copies of the authorized devotional exercises were printed in 1876, and an amended copy still later, with the aid of which little difficulty will be encountered in going through the

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 135

45. St. Patrick's Purgatory as Ireland's chief pilgrimage

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    St. Patrick's Purgatory at Lough Derg is identified as the most prominent place of pilgrimage in Ireland. It is listed after the holy places at Jerusalem, the shrines of the Madonna, and the tombs of the Apostles at Rome.

    Read the passage

    the chief places of pilgrimage in every country, in Ireland St. Patrick’s Purgatory at Lough Derg holding the most prominent rank.

    The Abbe Receveur, in his Discours sur V Histoire Ecclesiastique, * writes thus on the development of pilgrimages : —

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 10

46. Victoria Bridge and Castlederg Tramway opened 1885

    near Castlederg · town · Tyrone · 1885

    The Victoria Bridge and Castlederg Tramway, opened in 1885, connected with the railroad from Derry and conveyed Lough Derg pilgrims to Castlederg, ten Irish miles from the lake shore. It greatly improved access compared to the perilous medieval routes.

    Read the passage

    “ What was a matter of peril and much labour in the Middle Ages is easy of access at the present day. The Castiederg and Victoria Bridge Tramway, which is in connection with the rail¬ road from Derry, will convey the Lough Derg pilgrims to Castiederg, a distance of ten Irish miles from the shore of the lake. The road from Castiederg to Killeter, and for four miles further, passes through the valley of the Derg, and the rich alluvial lands skirting that river, and proceeds through undulating moorlands, remarkable for scenery. A new road, a mile and a half long, has been lately constructed, which will lead the pilgrims to within a few hundred yards of the lake.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 131

47. Aedhagan dies on pilgrimage at Clonmacnoise

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 834

    In the year 834, Aedhagan, abbot of Louth, died while on pilgrimage at Clonmacnoise, illustrating the early Irish practice of undertaking pilgrimages to monastic sites.

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    “ A.D. 834. Aedhagan, abbot of Louth, died on his pilgrim¬ age at Clonmacnoise.”

    “ A.D. 869. Maenghal, the pilgrim, abbot of Bangor, died.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 12

48. Bishop of Clogher appoints secular priest as prior of Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1770–1799

    Towards the close of the eighteenth century, the Bishop of Clogher appointed one of the secular priests of his diocese to officiate as prior of Lough Derg, replacing the Franciscan Friars who had previously managed the pilgrimage.

    Read the passage

    founded would appear from the fact, that in 1504 Turlough Maguire, who was Prior of Lough Derg, was then pastor of Derryvallen, which clearly suggests that the priorate of Lough Derg and the pastorate of Templecarne, or Termon MacGrath, were two distinct offices and jurisdic¬ tions. Again, it is stated in the Memoir of Most Rev. Peter Lombard, by Cardinal Moran, that Hugh O’Neil, • Earl of Tyrone, claimed and obtained from the Holy Father, in the year 1609, the restoration of the right of appointment to certain benefices, in the list of which Termon MacGrath is included. It is more than unlikely, however, that the right of nominating the Prior of Lough Derg was included in that concession ; whence it would follow that Lough Derg was then as now a separate juris¬ diction. Nor can I find any record in ancient or modern times of any pastor of Templecarne having been Prior of Lough Derg, or of having exercised any parochial juris¬ diction there ; or of anyone having exercised spiritual jurisdiction there, except under the sanction and delega¬ tion of the bishop of the diocese.^ The Augustinian Canons conducted the pilgrimage till their expulsion in 1632. Next, Franciscan Friars had charge of it till towards the close of the last century, when the Bishop of Clogher (in which diocese Lough Derg lies,) appointed one of the secular priests of his diocese to officiate as prior. Since that time a prior and assistant confessors for the pilgrims are annually appointed by the bishop of the

    * The only exception I can find of a parish priest of Templecarne having been also Prior of Lough Derg, is that given by the Rev. Mr. Hewson, who visited the island in the beginning of August, 1701. He states : — “ On the ninth day (about two in the morning), the titular priest of the parish (whom they call prior) puts them into the caves, one of which holds thirty, another sixteen, and another fourteen persons, the men and women separately.”

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 83

49. Clogher and Clones: religious houses beside pre-existing forts

    Clogher · townland · Donegal

    At Clogher and Clones, religious houses were founded beside pre-existing forts for economy of construction, illustrating the widespread Irish custom of associating ecclesiastical sites with earlier defensive earthworks. This practice prevailed both within and outside Fermanagh.

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    a custom, borrowed from the Pagan period, of erecting a circular earthen fort, or enclosure, close to, but more frequently round the religious houses. Thus in Father O’Hanlon’s Life of St. Fanchea {Lives of the Irish SaintSy Vol. L), we read how her brother St. Endeus raised with his own hands around his sister’s nunnery at Kossory in Fermanagh a large mu]\, or earthwork, strengthened by deep circular fosses, the remains of which are still to be seen. And Wakeman, in his Antiquities of Devenishy says that nearly all the primitive churchsites in Fermanagh bear traces of such circumvallations. From personal observation, at least as to several of them, 1 can fully endorse that statement. Near the Abbey of Devenish, on Lough Erne, stood a strongly fortified rathy remains of which are still evident. The same may be said of Possory, Iniskeen, Aghalurcher, etc. Outside Fermanagh the same custom equally prevailed. At Clogher and Clones religious houses were founded, for economy sake, beside pre-existing forts. A circular earthwork of this class exists near the summit of Saints’ Island, and adjoining the cemetery at its western side. It is intersected by the western boundary wall of the cemetery, but enough of this primitive construction yet remains outside that enclosure to leave little room for doubt as to its character and purpose. From careful investigation I find, judging from the western part of the Up, which is still intact, that its shape, like that of the island itself, was elliptical. The portion outside the cemetery measures 65 yards in circumference. A lesser arc of this oval enclosure lies within the cemetery, the boundary wall of which measures 31 yards, and this may be taken as the diameter of the original fort. The measurements of the cemetery are thus 31 yards in length, and its width 27 yards. Within the portion of

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 24

50. Cut-stone from Brookeborough quarries

    near Brookeborough · village · Fermanagh · 1880

    One hundred tons of cut-stone used in the Lough Derg Hospice were quarried at Brookeborough and conveyed by train upwards of forty miles to the site. The Brookeborough quarries were thus a key supplier of dressed stone for the pilgrimage structure.

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    It may interest many to learn that most of the stones used in the building were collected around the shore of the lake and islands j 10,000 tons of stones were thus provided, the boat used for the purpose carrying 4 tons in each load. 4,000 tons of sand were similarly boated across from the lake-shore at Trabane, i.e. the white strand ; 2,000 barrels of lime were also used in the building, and this was drawn from Pettigo. 100 tons of cut-stone were conveyed by train upwards of forty miles from the Brookeborough quarries. Many of the Protes¬ tant farmers of Templecarne parish assisted their Catholic neighbours in carting the materials for the Hospice from the railway station at Pettigo.

    The prior had not proceeded far in his preparations for erecting the Hospice, when he found indications of the coming storm, which threatened to burst upon his devoted head. In making ready the foundations he at one particular corner protruded somewhat on the bed of the lake. The landlord, who claimed a right of ownership not only in the lough, but even in the island, resented this. In vain would it be to show that in certain dry seasons, or when “ the carrymouth” (as the outlet of the river Derg is termed), is free from impediments, the ledge of rock all round the Hospice is terra firma. Hor would it anywise extenuate the fault to represent that, owing to the limited area of the site, hemmed in on one side by the lough, and on the other by the penal cells or circles, this particular encroachment on

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 146

51. Extent and scenery of Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Lough Derg is a 2,200-acre lake about six miles long and four miles wide, surrounded by mountains and studded with islands. Its severe but picturesque landscape, featuring hamlets and green slopes, befits a penitential retreat.

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    The extensive sheet of water, enclosed by rocky shores and studded by numerous islands, presents a view truly picturesque. In the background the mountains form a bold and prominent feature, rising in some cases abruptly from the water’s edge, in others gently receding ; and, whilst jealously excluding the slightest glimpse of the outer world, they confine the view to the overarching heavens, the true home of the pilgrim. Though heath be here the prevailing robe of nature, the landscape is relieved of much of its wild and stern aspect by occasional patches of trees and shrubs, with many a bright slope and green-sward and wooded island, not to speak of the many hamlets, with cultivated fields, bearing evidence of toil and industry. But above and beyond all, the traditions and associations of the place impart to it a charm and attraction, which no beauty of scenery can supply.

    The lake stands about 450 feet above the level of the sea. Its immense basin has retaining capacity for a vast body of water, and so prevents the destructive effects of sudden floods on the lowlands bordering on the river Derg ; whilst as a reservoir it must afford water-pow'er for the propelling of endless machioery, when the industrial resources of our country shall come to be developed. Of the mountains, which stand as sentinels round the lake, the highest is Croagh-Kinnagoe, to the south-east, with an elevation of 1,194 feet; Ardmore and Oughtadreen, to the north, 1,086, and 1,071 feet respectively; the mountains to the south and west not reaching an elevation of 1,000 feet.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 20

52. Florence O'Cervallen, Bishop of Derry, and the Purgatory

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1184–1230

    Florence O'Cervallen ruled the See of Derry for forty-six years and died in 1230 at age eighty-six. The text suggests he may have been the bishop who informed Henry of Saltrey that St. Patrick's Purgatory lay within or adjoining his bishopric.

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    In the List of Bishops of the diocese of Derry at that period we meet with one Florence O’Cervallen, who may have been the informant of Henry of Saltrey. This Florence ruled the See of Derry for forty-six years, and died anno 1230, aged eighty-six years. Of him it could not with strict propriety be said, that St. Patrick’s Purgatory was “within his bishopric but the words may be taken in a wide sense to signify that it was close to and adjoining his diocese. For, as a matter of fact, the diocese of Derry adjoins the territory of Termon-Daveog, and one ofJ|A|^rishes, Termonamongan, approaches almost to the verge of

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 61

53. Inishgoosk (Bilberry Island) size and name meaning

    near Inishgoosk · townland · Donegal

    Inishgoosk, now called Bilberry Island, takes its Celtic name from its creek-like formation on the western side. It is the largest island in Lough Derg, measuring over 13 acres in extent.

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    Saints’ Island would appear to have been sometimes called St. Fintan’s Island, but the name by which it was generally known during the early Christian ages was St. Dabheoc’s Island. Of the islands above enumerated Inishgoosk bears the most Celtic sound, and it may be taken to mean the island of the creek or cove, on account of its formation at the western side. In point of extent or area, Inishgoosk is the largest of the islands of Lough Derg, containing 13 acres, 2 roods, and 24 perches ; while Station Island ranks but eleventh, as it comprises only 3 roods and 26 perches, statute measure.* In point, how¬ ever, of historical interest and celebrity. Station Island occupies the foremost place. Saints’ Island ranks next in importance, while the other islands t of Lough Derg merit little attention on the part of the pilgrim or historian.

    Lough Derg, ’mid its surroundings of mountain and

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 21

54. Legend of Don Diego Riaz and the ghostly boatman

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    A legend from T. D. M'Gee's poems describes the knight Don Diego Riaz, who died en route to St. Patrick's shrine at Lough Derg. His attendant sailed to the island for a nine days' vigil, and the dead knight's ghost appeared and rowed the boat to the island before vanishing upon arrival.

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    On his way to the island his dead master appeared to him, as the legend says, and rowed the boat, in which he embarked, to the island, on reaching which he vanished.

    108

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon

55. O'Doherty heraldic stone on Station Island, 1763

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1763

    Friar Anthony O'Doherty erected an edifice on Station Island in 1763 bearing a date stone sculptured with the O'Doherty clan family arms, depicting a stag with large antlers. Some had erroneously supposed this to be the image of Caoranach.

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    The other object of antiquity, namely,' the image of Caoranach* also said to have been discovered in the cellar of the monastery on Saints’ Island, cannot now be traced or identified. By some it was supposed, but erroneously, to have been identical with the heraldic com¬ position, which appears on the date stone of an edifice, erected on Station Island by Friar Anthony O’Doherty, O.S.F., in the year 1763. Of this sculpturing I shall merely say in the present connexion, that it represents the family arms of the O’Doherty clan, showing a stag with antlers of goodly proportions.

    Among the visitors who came to Lough Derg in the

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 103

56. Pilgrim boats St. Patrick, St. Brigid, and St. Columba

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal

    Three boats served the Lough Derg ferry: the large 'St. Patrick' accommodating about sixty pilgrims, the smaller 'St. Brigid,' and a third called 'St. Columba.' The passage from ferry-house to Station Island covered nearly a statute mile in ten to twelve minutes.

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    The large pilgrims’ boat, appropriately called the “ St. Patrick,”* manned by steady and experienced boatmen, and capable of accommodating about sixty pilgrims, can make the passage from the ferry-house to the Island, a distance of nearly a statute mile, in ten or twelve minutes. There is a smaller boat on the ferry' named the ‘‘ St. Brigid,” and a third called the “ St. Coluraba.”

    When the pilgrims arrive on the island, they proceed to the hospice, or to the cabins, which are six in number, and there they divest themselves of shoes and hats, in order to perform the station, as prescribed by ancient usage, both barefoot and bareheaded.

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 134

57. Trout fishing and monastic currachs at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Lough Derg abounds in trout and affords excellent fishing, with trout weighing six to eight pounds occasionally landed. The text imagines the old monks enjoying this recreation as they sailed over the lake's waters in skin-covered currachs.

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    As a matter of fact salmon cannot be found in Lough Derg. The lake, however, abounds in trout, and affords excellent fishing. In this respect, perhaps, scarcely any other lake in Ireland can compete with it. During the summer and autumn a day seldom passes without witness¬ ing a number of arrivals of those on fishing bent, and such followers of Isaac Walton are generally rewarded with a numerous take. Trout weighing six or eight pounds are occasionally landed, but those most commonly caught do not exceed a pound in weight. When a gentle “fresh” is blowing, no more contemplative or enticing pastime can be desired than playing a well-trimmed “cast” off the shoals and reefs, which are so numerous throughout the lake. And well may we imagine how the monks of Lough Derg in the olden time, notwithstanding their prayerful and penitential lives, enjoyed to their heart’s content this delightful recreation as they sailed over its sparkling waters in their skin-covered currachs.

    Eels, also, are to be found in Lough Derg. Near the mouth of the river Derg remains of an eel-weir may be seen. Of late years pike has made its way into the lake, and some fish of this class have been caught weighing over thirty pounds. Those “fresh water sharks” have hitherto made sad havoc on the trout of the lake; but it

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 54

58. Lime drawn from Pettigo for Hospice

    Pettigo · town · Donegal · 1880

    Two thousand barrels of lime used in constructing the Lough Derg Hospice were drawn from Pettigo. The railway station at Pettigo also served as the delivery point for building materials brought by train.

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    It may interest many to learn that most of the stones used in the building were collected around the shore of the lake and islands j 10,000 tons of stones were thus provided, the boat used for the purpose carrying 4 tons in each load. 4,000 tons of sand were similarly boated across from the lake-shore at Trabane, i.e. the white strand ; 2,000 barrels of lime were also used in the building, and this was drawn from Pettigo. 100 tons of cut-stone were conveyed by train upwards of forty miles from the Brookeborough quarries. Many of the Protes¬ tant farmers of Templecarne parish assisted their Catholic neighbours in carting the materials for the Hospice from the railway station at Pettigo.

    The prior had not proceeded far in his preparations for erecting the Hospice, when he found indications of the coming storm, which threatened to burst upon his devoted head. In making ready the foundations he at one particular corner protruded somewhat on the bed of the lake. The landlord, who claimed a right of ownership not only in the lough, but even in the island, resented this. In vain would it be to show that in certain dry seasons, or when “ the carrymouth” (as the outlet of the river Derg is termed), is free from impediments, the ledge of rock all round the Hospice is terra firma. Hor would it anywise extenuate the fault to represent that, owing to the limited area of the site, hemmed in on one side by the lough, and on the other by the penal cells or circles, this particular encroachment on

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 146

59. O'Carolan's marriage to Mary Maguire of Tempo

    near Tempo · village · Fermanagh

    Turlough O'Carolan married Mary Maguire, of the Maguires of Tempo, once a noble and powerful family but long deprived of their ancestral possessions. In his youth he had been intimately acquainted with Bridget Cruise before his marriage.

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    The remains of O’Carolan (as stated in Hardiman’s Minstrelsy) await the final resurrection in Kilronan, the church of the Duigenan family, in MacDermott Roe’s vault. In his youth he became intimately acquainted with one Bridget Cruise, but he afterwards married Mary Maguire, of the Maguires of Tempo, once a noble and powerful family, but long deprived of their ancestral possessions. The well-authenticated tradition still lives at Lough Derg, how O’Carolan, when old and blind, occupied the pilgrims’ boat on his return from the island. At the landing-place a number of pilgrims were eager to offer their services to the helpless one to land. O’Carolan no sooner touched a hand stretched out to guide him, than he paused and exclaimed, “ This is the hand of Bridget Cruise.” f On this subject the late Samuel Lover has written a charming song, sung to the sweetest of airs, and entitled “ Carolan and Bridget Cruise.”

    * For ail account of his last resting-place see The Legend oj KilronaUf by “ Lageniensis” (Dublin, 1877).

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 112

60. St. Mary's Church on Station Island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1763–1870

    St. Mary's Church on Station Island likely dates to 1763, as indicated by a date-stone found in its walls when it was taken down in 1870. The date-stone is now visible in the gable of St. Patrick's Church.

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    family of the O’Fiahertys of H-Iar Coimauglit, who in the days of their power were benefactors of many a church and cloister. His immediate ancestors had settled in the parish of Termonamongan, to which parish he also be¬ longed. It is evident he co-operated with the Prior, Father O’Doherty, in the erection of buildings on the island; and in requital for his services permission was f^iven him to erect the above date-stone. What the buildings then erected were I cannot with any degree of certainty say. One of them in all likelihood was St. Mary’s Church, which was replaced over fifty years later by a new structure. To this conclusion I am mainly led by a Map or Plan of the Island, and of St. Patrick’s Purgatory, which I find in the Antiquities of Ireland, by Edward Ledwich (Dublin, 1790). Here we find ‘‘ the church, or monastery,” marked near the site of the present St. Mary’s, but reaching more westerly. The date-stone of that old church was found in the walls of St. Mary’s^ taken down in 1870, to make room for the neat Guthic edifice, which now graces its site. The inscription, from which unfortunately the year is missing, certainly belongs to the last centurj/. It may be seen in the gable of St. Patrick’s ; and it reads : —

    “THIS CHAP:

    Internet Archive stpatrickspurgat00ocon, Chapter 114