Tours in Ireland, or, Guides to the lakes of Killarney, the county of Wicklow and the Giants Causeway

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Meeting-house at Glenarm erected 1762

   near Glenarm · village · Antrim · 1762

   The Meeting-house on a commanding eminence at Glenarm was erected in 1762, the ground and 30 guineas donated by the Right Hon. Alexander Earl of Antrim to the Dissenters of Glenarm.

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   This house was built in the year of our Lord, 1762; and the inclosed ground on which it stands, with 30 guineas, was the bountiful

   donation of the Right Hon. ALEXANDER EARL OF ANTRIM, to the Dissenters of Glenarm.

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 120

   As the companion tells it

   As the road takes you through Glenarm, the Meeting-house stands on a commanding eminence. It was built in 1762. The enclosed ground on which it stands, along with 30 guineas, was the bountiful donation of the Right Hon. Alexander Earl of Antrim to the Dissenters of Glenarm.

2. Poverty of the village of Hollywood

   Hollywood · parish · Wicklow

   The village of Hollywood is described as one of the most miserable places imaginable, with its chief distinction being the privilege of holding fairs on set dates.

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   The road from Ballymore Eustace to Hollywood, which is distant but two miles and a half, lies across the commons of Broadley, upon which are some sepulchral tumuli and upright stones, probably marking a field of battle where many persons of distinction fell, as is supposed by the author of the history of the ancient Britons to be the occasion of the numerous sepulchral stones on Stonehenge. The village of Hollywood is one of the most miserable places imaginable ; its chief distinction is the privilege of holding fairs: the fair days are Feb, 1, May 3, and the 1st of August and November. The rectory of Hollywood is in the diocese of Dublin.

   To the left of Hollywood-glen is the Sliebh Gadoe, or Church Mountain, a large and lofty mountain, whose elevation exceeds 2,000 feet, the southern side of which is covered with grass, but the northern inclined to be bog of a shallow kind, used as fuel by the peasantry about Hollywood. This is the highest of the mountains in this group, and extends from the valley of the *King’s-river to the glen of Imael. On the summit of Sliebh Gadoe are the ruins of a chapel, the date of whose erection is uncertain, where numbers of pilgrims and penitents are constantly to be found, engaged in acts of devotion. The principal attraction, however, to the penitent is not the chapel, which might have been only a place of shelter and

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 100

   As the companion tells it

   The road from Ballymore Eustace runs two and a half miles across the commons of Broadley to Hollywood. Along the commons stand sepulchral tumuli and upright stones, probably marking a field of battle where many persons of distinction fell. The author of the history of the ancient Britons supposed the same occasion gave rise to the numerous sepulchral stones at Stonehenge. Hollywood itself is one of the most miserable places imaginable. Its chief distinction is the privilege of holding fairs, on 1 February, 3 May, and 1 August and 1 November. The rectory of Hollywood is in the diocese of Dublin. Near Hollywood-glen stands Sliebh Gadoe, or Church Mountain, large and lofty, exceeding 2,000 feet in elevation. Its southern side is covered with grass, but the northern side tends to shallow bog, used as fuel by the peasantry about Hollywood. This is the highest of the mountains in this group, extending from the valley of the King's river to the glen of Imael. On the summit are the ruins of a chapel, the date of whose erection is uncertain. Numbers of pilgrims and penitents are constantly to be found there, engaged in acts of devotion. The principal attraction to the penitent, however, is not the chapel, which might have been only a place of shelter.

3. Red Bay Castle built by the Bissetts

   Red Bay · townland · Antrim

   The ruined Castle of Red Bay stands on the extreme end of the southern cliff, built by the Bissetts, from whom the Antrim family derive this barony. Nothing important remains of its former extent or architecture.

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   On the extreme end of the southern cliff stands the ruined Castle of Red Bay, upon a similar argillaceous conglomerate. Beneath the bank are three distinct excavations of considerable dimensions ; one of which was not long since used to dispense the blessings of education in, by a poor school-master, but is now degraded into a nightly sheep-pen. The new road here passes outside the cliff, close to the shore ; and in excavating the red clay to continue this new line, a lofty gothic arch-way has been fantastically cut in the bank, through which the road to Cushendall passes. The castle, which is now totally ruined, stands in a very commanding, but very exposed situation. It was built by the Bissetts, from whom the Antrim family derive this barony ; but of its former extent or style of architecture, nothing important can now be traced.*

   From Red-Bay Castle the scenery changes very much: the dreary wilderness of Glenariff is exchanged for a rich,

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 124

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, on the extreme end of a southern cliff, stands the ruined Castle of Red Bay. It was built by the Bissetts, from whom the Antrim family derived this barony. The castle stands in a very commanding but very exposed situation, and is now totally ruined. Of its former extent or style of architecture, nothing important can be traced. Beneath the bank are three distinct excavations of considerable dimensions. One of them was not long since used by a poor schoolmaster to dispense the blessings of education, but is now degraded into a nightly sheep-pen. A lofty gothic archway has been fantastically cut in the bank, through which the road to Cushendall passes. From the castle, the scenery changes very much. The dreary wilderness of Glenariff is exchanged for a rich landscape ahead.

4. Ruined church of Aghadoe founded before 1231

   Aghadoe · parish · Kerry · 1231

   The ruined church and tower of Aghadoe, of ancient and uncertain foundation date, is recorded in a Trinity College manuscript as the burial place of Hugh Connor O'Donnagadhee's son in the old abbey of O'Mathgamna in 1231.

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   The date of the foundation of this Abbey has not yet been ascertained. Ina MS. in the College Library, &c. the following passage occurs relative to this church, which differs from what Archdall quotes as being contained in the Annals of Munster, and thereforeit may be concluded that he did not consult the MS, himself. The passage in the MS. Trin. Coll. is “aepu, alias Hugh Connor O’Donnagadhee’s son died, and was buried in the (his itt

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 35

   As the companion tells it

   The parish of Aghadoe holds a ruined church and tower whose foundation date has never been settled. A manuscript in Trinity College records that Hugh Connor O'Donnagadhee's son died and was buried in the old abbey of O'Mathgamna in 1231. The passage differs from what Archdall quotes from the Annals of Munster, suggesting he did not consult the manuscript himself.

5. Suspension beam evidence at Ardmore Round Tower

   Ardmore · town · Waterford

   The author notes that the Round Tower at Ardmore is argued to have been used as a belfry because part of the original oak suspension-beam for the bell is still visible inside it, though this is the only such instance found.

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   Suppose them to have been erected by the Danes, as watchtowers at first, and afterwards converted into belfries. General Vallancey supposed they were for the purpose of preserving the sacred fire, and consequently of much greater antiquity than is generally attributed to them. That they might have been anchorite towers is possible ; but this theory rests on the weakest arguments: it is true they were divided into stories, as is manifest from the ledges upon which the floors were laid, and which are visible in all the towers; yet the lower chambers must have been totally divested of light, for loop-holes are found in very few of them. The conjecture of their being penitential residences, in which the sinner was removed from story to story as he improved in piety and awakened to a sense of error, rests on the sole evidence of an unauthenticated MS., found by Dr. Smith at Cork, in which they are termed “ Inclusoria.” Dr. Molyneaux, as well as some others, attributes their erection to the Danes, in the ninth century, and he concludes, rather hastily, that they were always intended as belfries. If so, what was the occasion of their extraordinary height? why is the door at such an elevation from the ground—sometimes twenty feet? And could not the bell have been tolled by a rope reaching from top to bottom, which the stories seem to prove was not done? Besides, it ought to be observed, that granting they were used as belfries, we find churches built subsequently to the towers, and not many feet from them, with steeples for the suspension of bells, and these steeples of the same diameter as the upper stories of the towers, so that they could not be meant for the suspension of bells of various sizes. It has often been argued that the Round Tower at Ardmore has been used as a belfry, because part of the oak suspension-beam is still visible ; to

   ROUND TOWERS. od

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 37

   As the companion tells it

   Ardmore in County Waterford has a round tower, and there is a detail inside it that people have long pointed to. Part of the original oak suspension-beam for a bell is still visible there. It is the only round tower where such evidence has been found, and it has often been argued on that basis that the tower at Ardmore was used as a belfry. The argument is old, and it sits among several competing theories about what these towers were for. General Vallancey supposed they were built to preserve the sacred fire, and held them to be far older than most people believed. Others thought they might have been anchorite towers, though that theory rests on weak arguments. The towers were divided into stories, as the ledges for floors are visible in all of them, yet the lower chambers would have had no light, since loopholes are found in very few. There is also the theory that they were penitential residences, where a sinner was moved from story to story as he improved in piety. That rests on a single unauthenticated manuscript found by Dr. Smith at Cork, in which the towers are termed Inclusoria. Dr. Molyneaux and some others attributed their erection to the Danes in the ninth century and concluded, rather hastily, that they were always intended as belfries. The author raises a question about that. If they were belfries, what was the occasion of their extraordinary height? Why is the door sometimes twenty feet from the ground? And could the bell not have been tolled by a rope reaching from top to bottom, which the stories seem to prove was not done? He also observes that churches were built near the towers, with steeples for the suspension of bells, and these steeples were of the same diameter as the upper stories of the towers, so they could not have been meant for bells of various sizes. Still, at Ardmore, that oak beam remains.

6. The incorporated tree phenomenon at Glena Bay

   Glena · townland · Kerry

   On the western shore of Glena bay stands a singular natural phenomenon described by Bush in his Hibernia Curiosa, of several tree species incorporated into the trunk of an old holly.

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   Leaving Castle-Lough Bay, studded with islands, and Mucruss Promontory to the left, the usual course is under the woods of Glenda; perhaps there is scarcely any thing in the sublime, the horrible, the picturesque and beautiful, that is not illustrated in the bay of Glena:—the majestic Turk, the gloomy Mangerton, with a continued chain of dark and lofty mountains behind them ; then, the entrance to Turk Lake, and the channel to the upper; possessing beauty and variety; with the bay of Glena, sheltered by a lofty hill, possessing the scenic character of both the others. The summit of Glena is bare, naked, barren, wild, and rugged, while the base is clothed with a deep mass of unbroken wood, of rich and varied shades, almost dipping their foliage in the water. On the western shore of Glena bay, stands a most singular phenomenon, thus described by Bush in his Hibernia Curiosa: “ I have seen an oak, an ash, an hazel, a birch and a thorn, so incorporated into the trunk of an old lively holly, that they appeared to grow out of its very body, and to exist by feeding on its vitals.” Bush, 145, Holmes, 126.

   In the bay of Glena will be found a most pleasing echo, from the impending mountains, which is much increased in strength and distinctness of articulation, by the auditor being stationed at a considerable interval from the origin of the sound. This may be readily accomplished, and to the best possible advantage, by a party, attended by two boats, having placed the bugleman in one of them, in the best position for producing an echo,

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 16

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Glena, on the western shore of Glena Bay, there stands a most singular natural phenomenon. Bush described it in his Hibernia Curiosa. He wrote that he had seen an oak, an ash, a hazel, a birch, and a thorn, so incorporated into the trunk of an old lively holly, that they appeared to grow out of its very body, and to exist by feeding on its vitals. The passage is also cited in Holmes at page 126, and in Bush at page 145. The bay itself sits sheltered by a lofty hill, possessing the scenic character of both Turk Lake and the channel to the upper lake. The summit of Glena is bare, naked, barren, wild, and rugged, while the base is clothed with a deep mass of unbroken wood of rich and varied shades, the foliage almost dipping in the water. The majestic Turk and the gloomy Mangerton rise behind, with a continued chain of dark and lofty mountains. In the bay of Glena you will also find a most pleasing echo, from the impending mountains. It is much increased in strength and distinctness of articulation when the auditor is stationed at a considerable interval from the origin of the sound. A party attended by two boats can accomplish this readily, placing the bugleman in one of them, in the best position for producing an echo.

7. Tomb inscription of John M'Naghten, Secretary to the Earl of Antrim, 1630

   Bonamargy · townland · Antrim · 1630

   On the south side of the Bona-Margy chapel is a tomb bearing an inscription in Roman capitals commemorating John M'Naghten, first Secretary to Randal, first Earl of Antrim, who died in 1630.

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   Here lyeth the bodie of Joun M‘NacuTen, first Secretaire to Randal,

   first Earl of Antrim, who departed this Mortalitie in the year of our Lord God 1630.

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 128

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Bonamargy, a tomb on the south side of the chapel commemorates John M'Naghten, first Secretary to Randal, first Earl of Antrim, who died in 1630. The inscription reads: "Here lyeth the bodie of Joun M'NacuTen, first Secretaire to Randal, first Earl of Antrim, who departed this Mortalitie in the year of our Lord God 1630."

8. Ancient coins found at Glendalough in 1639

   Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow · 1639

   According to Ware, a great number of ancient coins, thought by him to be Irish but more likely Danish, were found by the peasantry among the ruins of Glendalough in 1639.

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   Amongst the ruins of Glendalough, according to Ware, a great number of ancient coins were found by the peasantry in 1639, which he calls Irish ; but in all proba-

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 88

   As the companion tells it

   Glendalough in Wicklow holds an old coin story. In 1639, among the ruins here, the peasantry turned up a great number of ancient coins. Ware called them Irish, but they were more likely Danish.

9. Belfast port revenue in 1821

   near Belfast · city · Antrim · 1821

   The revenue of Belfast port in 1821, the last estimate available to the author, amounted to £800,000 and upwards, indicating the wealth and importance of the town.

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   state the revenues of this port, in order that a correct estimate of the wealth and importance of the place may be conceived. In the year 1821, which is, the last estimate we could obtain at this moment, the revenue ainounted to €.800,000 and upwards.

   Before we quit Belfast, the tourist should be informed, that there is an act of polite kindness extended to strangers in this town, which is extremely generous and liberal, and for which the author acknowledges himself the city’s debtor, that is, permission to read in the news-room of the New Commercial Buildings for eight days, without subscription, or any trouble but that of entering the visiter’s name in “ The Stranger’s Book.”’

   Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 108

   As the companion tells it

   Belfast in 1821 was a place of real consequence. The port revenue that year amounted to 800,000 pounds and upwards. That was the last estimate the author could obtain, and it gives a sense of the wealth and importance of the town. There was a generous courtesy extended to strangers here. Visitors were permitted to read in the news-room of the New Commercial Buildings for 8 days, without subscription. The only trouble was entering the visitor's name in "The Stranger's Book." The author acknowledges himself the city's debtor for this liberal kindness.

10. Belief in coal-beds beneath Island Magee

    near Island Magee · parish · Antrim

    Inhabitants of Island Magee believed coal-beds existed beneath the surface and near Larne, though evidence was insufficient. The island's basalt substratum forms the Gobbins range at Black-head.

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    The inhabitants of Island Magee are fully impressed with the belief of the existence of coal-beds beneath the surface, and also in the neighbourhood of Larne, but there is not sufficient evidence of the fact. The substratum of the Island is basalt, which first exhibits itself at Black-head, and forms the magnificent range already mentioned, called the Gobbins ; there the chalk emerges from this northern extremity, and the lias from beneath the chalk. This character is also applicable to the strueture of the beach on the Larne side of the Lough.

    "In Island Magee there are several salt springs ; and it has been conjectured, by skilful geologists, that rock-salt will probably be found here. Gypsum could also be raised near Portmuck, where a fruitless attempt was

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 119

    As the companion tells it

    The people of Island Magee held firm to the belief that coal-beds lay beneath the surface, and beneath the neighbourhood of Larne too, though there was not sufficient evidence of it. The substratum of the island is basalt. It first shows itself at Black-head and forms the magnificent range called the Gobbins. There the chalk emerges from the northern extremity, and the lias from beneath the chalk. The same structure marks the beach on the Larne side of the Lough. Several salt springs rise in Island Magee, and skilful geologists conjectured that rock-salt would probably be found there. Gypsum could also be raised near Portmuck.

11. Charter school founded by Viscountess Allen at Arklow

    Arklow · town · Wicklow

    A charter school in Arklow was founded by Viscountess Allen, who bestowed twenty acres of arable land and one of bog in perpetuity, along with a donation of 50l. toward building the school-house.

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    There is a charter school in Arklow founded am Viscountess Allen, who bestowed upon it twenty acres of arable land and one of bog, in perpetuity; with a dona~ tion of 50/. towards the erection of the school-house.

    These are the chief public objects of interest or attraction that can possibly induce the visit of a mere tourist to the town of Arklow; and, although so much has been detailed of its situation and antiquities, it is not recommended as an object deserving his notice.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Arklow, there is a charter school here founded by Viscountess Allen. She bestowed on it twenty acres of arable land and one of bog, in perpetuity, with a donation of 50l. toward the erection of the school-house. Beyond that, the town offers little to detain a visitor.

12. Dunloe Castle, seat of Major Mahony

    Dunloe Castle · castle · Kerry

    Dunloe Castle is described as the seat of Major Mahony, with the demesne offering little to detain hurried travellers except the view from its battlements.

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    aking horses at Killarney, and being attended by a bugleman, also mounted, start at five o’clock in the morning for Dunloe Gap ; two miles and a half from Killarney, turn up a narrow road, to the right, and visit the ruined tower and cathedral of Aghadoe. Arriving at the bridge over the Laune River, cross and ride a few hundred yards farther to the gate of the demesne of Dunloe Castle: here there is not much to detain the traveller who is in haste, except the view from the battlements. Leaving Dunloe Castle, the seat of Major Mahony, about three quarters of a mile farther, enter the Gap of Dunloe. Here let the bugle be kept in constant employment. Halt in the narrowest part of the rocky defile, and observe the extraordinary effects of the bugle; ride through the pass, and reach the valley of Comme Duff: here it will be necessary to send back the ponies, having desired guide-boys from Killarney, the night before, to meet you at that place for the purpose. The remaining part of the vale must be traversed on foot as far as Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Here ask permission to ascend the tower in the garden, from the top of which is a very commanding prospect. Direct your cockswain and boatmen, the night previous, to have a boat, with a supply of provisions, to meet you near Lord Brandon’s boat-house. Sail down the river into the Upper Lake, land on

    88 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS.—ONE DAY.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    A castle and demesne, Dunloe Castle, the seat of Major Mahony. The book that records this place describes a morning ride from Killarney, taking horses and a mounted bugleman, starting at five o'clock. Two and a half miles from Killarney, a narrow road turns to the ruined tower and cathedral of Aghadoe. Then comes the bridge over the Laune River. Cross it, ride a few hundred yards farther, and the gate of the demesne stands open. The writer says there is not much to detain the traveller who is in haste, except the view from the battlements. That view is what Dunloe Castle offers. Leaving the castle, about three quarters of a mile farther, the Gap of Dunloe begins. The bugle should be kept in constant employment through the pass. Halt in the narrowest part of the rocky defile and observe the extraordinary effects of the bugle. Ride through to the valley of Comme Duff, where guide-boys from Killarney meet you, sent for the night before. The ponies go back. On foot through the rest of the vale to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Ask permission to ascend the tower in the garden for a commanding prospect.

13. Fossil moose/elk antlers found together at Dardistown, Meath

    Dardistown · townland · Meath

    Several heads and antlers of an extinct large deer species were discovered together in Mr. Osborne's orchard at Dardistown, County Meath, all close together and deposited in a bed of marl.

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    This conjecture is somewhat strengthened by the circumstance of several heads and antlers being discovered m the same spot, particularly those found in Mr. Osborne’s orchard, at Dardistown, in the county of Meath, which were all close together, and, like all others, found deposited in a bed of marl.

    A very large pair of antlers, found in the county of

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Dardistown, in County Meath, several heads and antlers of a large deer were found together in Mr. Osborne's orchard. They were all close together, deposited in a bed of marl. The passage notes this strengthens a conjecture, though it does not say which. A very large pair of antlers was found in the county, but the record cuts off there.

14. Octagon spire erected on St Nicholas steeple 1778

    Carrickfergus · townland · Antrim · 1778

    In 1778, an octagon spire was erected upon the steeple of St Nicholas Church at an expense of about £500, chiefly raised by subscription.

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    There are no other objects of interest or attention connected with the church, and even these will be found to belong more to its ancient than its present greatness. In the year 1778, an octagon spire was erected upon the steeple at an expense of about 500/., chiefly raised by subscription. The other places of worship here are a Presbyterian meeting-house, and a Methodist chapel ; near the town is a Roman Catholic chapel.

    The next object of curiosity is the castle: this noble edifice, which might almost bear comparison with Edward’s castle of Carnarvon, is in excellent preservation, and affords accommodation to a large garrison.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 112

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrickfergus, an octagon spire was put up in 1778 on the steeple of St Nicholas Church. The work cost about £500, and the money was chiefly raised by subscription. The church itself had little else to draw attention, its interest belonging more to ancient than to present greatness. Aside from St Nicholas, the other places of worship here were a Presbyterian meeting-house and a Methodist chapel, with a Roman Catholic chapel near the town. The next thing of note was the castle, a noble edifice in excellent preservation, compared almost to Edward's castle of Carnarvon, and housing a large garrison.

15. Ruined chapel at Ardclinis and vanished stream

    Ardclinis · townland · Antrim

    The townland of Ardclinis retains only a ruined chapel on a pleasant eminence as a memorial of its former importance. The chapel is not mentioned in the Monasticon or Lannigan's Ecclesiastical History, though it may be identical with Aradnachill, said to be founded by St. Patrick.

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    The little town-land of Ardchnis is now soon reached, the only memorial of whose former importance, now discernible, is a little ruined chapel, standing on a very pleasing eminence, at the foot of a lofty ridge of mountain. Ardclinis is not mentioned in the Monasticon, or in Lannigan’s Ecclesiastical History, unless, probably, it is identical with Aradnachill, founded by St, Patrick, whose site is undetermined. Near this little ruinous edifice a stream falls down the mountain’s front ; and just when it has attracted the attention, by its pleasing murmuring and splashing foam, sinks completely into the earth, and passing under the hill, which the road crosses, falls into the sea. The noble vale of Glenariff* is soon reached, remarkable for the extreme wildness of the prospect, and the extensive scene of desolation presented to the wondering eye of the traveller. The road crosses the entrance of the glen, and commands a view of it from end to end. On either side, the mountains rise with much regularity and a monotony of character. At the bottom are verdant sloping banks ; above, a mural precipice of dark basalt, and on the summit a flat tract of table-land, affording tolerable pasture. This is the general appearance of most basaltic mountains, and from this very sameness the peculiar character of the vale of Glenariff is derived.

    - * Glenariff is also called Glen-aireamh, the valley of Numbers; and Glen-aireachaib, the valley of Chiefs.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 123

    As the companion tells it

    Near here, Ardclinis holds a ruined chapel on a pleasing eminence, at the foot of a lofty mountain ridge. It is the only memorial left of whatever importance this place once had. The chapel is not mentioned in the Monasticon, nor in Lannigan's Ecclesiastical History, unless it is identical with Aradnachill, founded by Saint Patrick, whose site remains undetermined. Close to the ruined chapel, a stream falls down the mountain's front. It catches the ear with its murmuring and splashing foam, then sinks completely into the earth. It passes under the hill that the road crosses, and falls into the sea. A stream that seems to vanish, and a chapel that no record names. Beyond here lies the noble vale of Glenariff, remarkable for extreme wildness and an extensive scene of desolation. The road crosses the entrance of the glen and commands a view of it from end to end. On either side, the mountains rise with much regularity and a monotony of character. At the bottom are verdant sloping banks. Above, a mural precipice of dark basalt. On the summit, a flat tract of table-land affording tolerable pasture. This is the general appearance of most basaltic mountains, and from this sameness the peculiar character of the vale of Glenariff is derived. Glenariff is also called Glen-aireamh, the valley of Numbers, and Glen-aireachaib, the valley of Chiefs.

16. Ruins of the Eustace castle at Ballymore Eustace

    Ballymore Eustace · town · Kildare · 1400–1499

    Near the town are the ruins of an old castle built by the Eustaces in the fifteenth century; the family also held castles or manors at Kilcullen, Castle Martin, Harristown, and Portlester.

    Read the passage

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    Near the town are the ruins of an old castle, built by the Eustaces in the fifteenth century ; they had, besides, castles or manors at the following places, Kilcullen or Pencoyl, Castle Martin, Harristown, and Portlester. The late Lord Mount Cashel built a lodge near this place, and commenced some improvements, which are now discontinued,

    Yol-a-¥huca.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 99

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ballymore Eustace, the ruins of an old castle stand near the town. The Eustaces built it in the fifteenth century, and they held castles or manors beyond this one too, at Kilcullen, Castle Martin, Harristown, and Portlester.

17. Tallagh's deserted archiepiscopal palace

    near Tallaght · town · Dublin

    At Tallagh, described as a miserable village, stands the long, tasteless, ancient archiepiscopal palace, which had been deserted by the archbishops by the time of writing.

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    of Sir Robert Shaw, Bart., and Terrenure. The valley of Templogue is soon reached, and, at the five-mile stone, the miserable village of Tallagh. Here is the archiepiscopal palace, a long, tasteless, and ancient fabric, which is now deserted by the archbishops. From ‘Tallagh, the road lies through a most uninteresting and unimproved country, to a defile in the mountains, called the Slade of Saggard. Here there is nothing to be seen as far as the eye can reach but desolation and poverty ; the mountains are green to the very summit, and yet no effort appears to have been made to render the land profitable, either by tillage or pasture. In a deep ravine, along the left of the road, worn by a mountain torrent, there is a bank of gravel exposed to view, which, if spread upon the surface of the ground, would be found to be an excellent manure. The road continues for about two miles through this defile of waste country, and then opens to a view of the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains, amongst which, the Golden Hill in the near view, and the unin<= habited tract, called in the maps, the Kippure Group, form the back ground.

    In these mountains the river Liffey takes its rise, and winding through the uninhabited valley of Addown, passes under Golden Hill, and thence to Blessington.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    Tallaght is a miserable village, or so one traveller called it. Here stands the archiepiscopal palace, a long, tasteless, and ancient fabric, now deserted by the archbishops. The road reaches it at the five-mile stone, after passing the valley of Templeogue and the lands of Sir Robert Shaw. Beyond the village, the road runs through what the writer called a most uninteresting and unimproved country, toward a defile in the mountains called the Slade of Saggard. Nothing to be seen but desolation and poverty. The mountains are green to the very summit, yet no effort appears to have been made to render the land profitable, either by tillage or pasture. In a deep ravine along the road, worn by a mountain torrent, a bank of gravel lies exposed, which the writer noted would make an excellent manure if spread upon the surface. The road carries on for about two miles through this waste country, then opens to a view of the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains. Among them, Golden Hill stands near, and the uninhabited Kippure Group forms the background. In these mountains the river Liffey takes its rise, winding through the uninhabited valley of Addown, passing under Golden Hill, and thence to Blessington.

18. Union of the sees of Ardfert and Aghadoe in 1663

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry · 1663

    The ancient sees of Ardfert and Aghadoe were united in 1663 according to Seward; the old cathedral of Aghadoe was dedicated to St. Finian, and the see now retains only one dignitary, an Archdeacon.

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    the Monasticon) old abbey of O’Mathgamna (Aghadoe), anno 1231.” It is obvious that the difference between the College MSS. and the Monasticon, leaves the founder still unknown. Seward mentions that the ancient sees of Ardfert and Aghadoe were united in 1663. *The latter see now possesses but one dignitary, an Archdeacon, who enjoys the entire rectory of Aghadoe, besides some small tithe interest, and glebe, of which there is no registry. The old cathedral was dedicated to St. Finian, [See Inisfallen].t

    The present appearance of the ruin and cemetery is extremely disgusting, and the smell frequently offensive : skulls, bones, and coffin-lids are scattered every where, in the same horrible manner as at Mucruss, Ardfert, and Lislaghtlin; and although divested of the gloomy accompaniments of long dark aisle and shady yew, still appear chilling and terrific. The number interred here exceeds that at Mucruss, partly because this is considered a more ancient cemetery, and partly because it is free from charge for burial.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Aghadoe, which the road passes through here in Kerry, carries a story from 1663. In that year, according to Seward, the ancient sees of Ardfert and this place were united. The old cathedral here was dedicated to Saint Finian. After the union, the see possessed but one dignitary, an Archdeacon, who enjoyed the entire rectory, besides some small tithe interest and glebe, of which there was no registry. The ruin and cemetery stand in a poor state. Skulls, bones, and coffin-lids are scattered everywhere, in the same manner as at Mucruss, Ardfert, and Lislaghtlin. The number interred here exceeds that at Mucruss. This is partly because it is considered a more ancient cemetery, and partly because it is free from charge for burial. An old abbey of O'Mathgamna here dates to 1231, though the founder remains unknown, as the college manuscripts and the Monasticon disagree.

19. Bally Castle's quay demolished by tides

    near Ballycastle · town · Antrim

    About a mile from Bona-Margy is the part of the town of Bally Castle usually denominated the Quay, named from a quay or pier formerly erected there but since demolished by the violence of the tides.

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    About one mile from Bona-Margy is that part of the town of Bally Castle * usually denominated the Quay, from a quay or pier, formerly erected here, but since demolished by the violence of the tides; and less than half a mile further, is the town of Bally Castle.

    The tourist is now conducted to the N. E. point of Ireland, along the eastern coast, to a distance of about 120 miles from Dublin. The part of the coast which occurs between Carrick Fergus and this point, was scarcely ever attempted to be brought before the inquiring public, although the portion from Fair Head to the Causeway has been the subject of much philosophical controversy, and of many interesting publications.t

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 128

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ballycastle, about a mile from Bona-Margy, there is a part of the town they used to call the Quay. It took its name from a quay or pier that once stood there. That pier is gone now, demolished by the violence of the tides. Less than half a mile further on is the town of Bally Castle itself. From here the road carries you toward the north-east point of Ireland, along the eastern coast, about 120 miles from Dublin. The stretch of coast between Carrick Fergus and that point was scarcely ever brought before the public, though the portion from Fair Head to the Giant's Causeway has been the subject of much philosophical controversy and many interesting publications.

20. Gypsum pits near Carrick-Fergus

    Carrickfergus · townland · Antrim

    On the strand near Carrick-Fergus are several pits of gypsum or alabaster of very superior quality, used for coating ceilings, which was becoming an increasingly profitable article for the proprietors.

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    The shore near Carrick-Fergus becomes perfectly free from the muddy ooze, which prevents bathing nearer to Belfast ; and several cottages, erected along the shore, are let at high rents during the bathing season. On the ‘strand are several pits of gypsum or alabaster, of a very superior quality, used for coating ceilings, and becoming

    * See Glenarm.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 109

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrickfergus, gypsum pits sit on the strand. The material is alabaster of very superior quality, used for coating ceilings, and it is becoming an increasingly profitable article for the proprietors.

21. Population and townlands of Raghery Island

    near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim

    Raghery Island contains about 2,000 acres with three townlands, Shandra, Alla, and Knock-ard, where about 1,000 inhabitants reside; a recent census showed the population was not increasing.

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    man is completely lord of the isle, and banishes his subjects to the continent of Ireland for misconduct, or repeated offences against his laws. Raghery is about five English miles in length by three anda halfin breadth ; it contains about 2,000 acres, one quarter of which grows corn, &c. There are three town-lands, called Shandra, Alla, and Knock-ard, upon which the majority of the inhabitants, generally about 1,000, reside: it appears, from a late census, that its population is not increasing, and varies very little. There are two places of worship here, a Protestant church and a Roman Catholic chapel.

    The extreme western end of the island is called Kenramer, and is 352 feet above the ocean: here is the Bull Point, an elevation of 280 feet. At the same end of the island is a fresh-water lake, called Lough Cliggin, whose height above the high water-mark is 238 feet. And near Ushet is Lough Runaolin, only 144 feet above the same level. It may be observed, that the surface is in general greatly elevated above the ocean, the lowest point, Altahony, beg 83 feet high, and the highest, Sliebh Ard, 372. The mean elevation is 200 fect. Formerly, distinctions existed between the inhabitants of each end of the island, and the qualifications of Ushet and Kenramer men were looked upon as totally dissimilar. This, how- ‘ever, is now quite extinguished.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 135

    As the companion tells it

    Out in the water lies Raghery, known today as Rathlin Island, a place the road along this coast runs near. It is about 5 English miles long and 3 and a half broad, holding roughly 2,000 acres, a quarter of which grows corn. The island is divided into three townlands, Shandra, Alla, and Knock-ard, where most of its people live. The population stands at around 1,000, and a late census showed it is not increasing, varying very little over the years. There are two places of worship on the island, a Protestant church and a Roman Catholic chapel. The western end is called Kenramer, rising 352 feet above the ocean. Bull Point stands at 280 feet. At the same end, a fresh-water lake called Lough Cliggin sits 238 feet above high water. Near Ushet is another lake, Lough Runaolin, only 144 feet above that level. The lowest point on the island, Altahony, is 83 feet high, and the highest, Sliebh Ard, reaches 372. The mean elevation across the whole island is 200 feet. Formerly, distinctions existed between the inhabitants of each end, and the qualities of Ushet men and Kenramer men were thought entirely dissimilar. That old division is now quite extinguished.

22. St. Molassius's Ancient Chapel Near Glynn

    Glynn · townland · Antrim

    Near Glynn stand the ruins of an old chapel, probably the Gluaire mentioned by Archdall, a foundation of St. Patrick where St. Molassius is buried.

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    Vhe great want which every tourist will perceive is wood. <A tree is scarcely to be seen in any direction about Larne, with the exception of Mr. Ferrall’s plantation, although it is certain, that almost every species of timber would thrive here, from the instances which occur to the north and south along this line of coast. The sallow in particular thrives in this soil. Besides, the village of Glynn, within a mile of Larne, is inclosed by a very luxuriant little plantation. Near Glynn are the ruins of an old chapel, probably the Gluaire of Archdall, a foundation of St. Patrick, and in which lies St. Molassius.*

    Barne.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 116

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here are the ruins of an old chapel, probably the Gluaire of Archdall. It was a foundation of St. Patrick, and in it lies St. Molassius. The writer notes that the village of Glynn, within a mile of Larne, is enclosed by a luxuriant little plantation. Along this stretch of coast, a traveller will see the great want of wood. A tree is scarcely to be seen about Larne, with the exception of Mr. Ferrall's plantation, though almost every species of timber would thrive here. The sallow in particular thrives in this soil.

23. County Sessions-house foundation laid 1777

    Carrickfergus · townland · Antrim · 1777–1779

    The County Sessions-house at Carrick-Fergus, with a neat facade surmounted by a balustrade, had its foundation laid in 1777 and was completed within two years.

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    The next building of any consequence is the County Sessions-house. The elevation is very neat and unassuming ; it consists of a facade, surmounted by a balustrade, the length corresponding to the breadth of the main street in front of it, and is without wings or pavilions. The foundation was laid in 1777, and it was completed in two years from that date. ‘The gaol is attached to the court-house. There is a second court-house, and a prison, belonging to the county of the town of Carrick-Fergus. The market-house, custom-house, &c. are too insignificant either to be noticed here, or to detain the tourist.

    The inhabitants are employed in the manufacture of

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 113

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stands the County Sessions-house at Carrickfergus. Its front is neat and plain, a facade topped by a balustrade, with no wings or pavilions. Its length matches the breadth of the main street in front of it. The foundation was laid in 1777, and it was finished within two years of that date. A gaol is attached to the court-house. There is also a second court-house, and a prison, belonging to the county of the town of Carrickfergus. The market-house and custom-house the writer calls too insignificant to notice.

24. Fossil coal found at Ballintoy

    near Ballintoy · town · Antrim

    Fossil coal was noted as existing at Ballintoy, on the road from Ballycastle to the Causeway, and also discovered at Knocnagor in County Down.

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    gether a height of 354* feet above the sea. The stratification in Bengore, which lies a little to the east of Pleaskin, is not so distinct, nor is the headland itself so beautiful, so that the description now given of the strata at Pleaskin will answer for both. Although the entire aggregate of capes near the Causeway, properly speaking, composes the headland of Bengore,t yet there is one precise cape so called, whose height is 328 feet above high water. Here a vein of wood-coal was found, between the strata of basalt, but it did not repay the expenses of working. In the severe season of 1817, a vein of fossil coal was discovered near the Causeway, which the poor, who were then much distressed for fuel, commenced working for themselves ; but, beingsituated under a stratum of basalt pillars, the roofing fell in, and several persons unhappily perished : this unlucky event has deterred others from renewing the attempt. Fossil coal has been already mentioned as existing at Ballintoy, on the road from Bally-castle to the Causeway ; it has also been discovered at Knocnagor, in the county of Down.

    Travellers visiting the Causeway, will be presented by the poor miserable beings who crowd around, with collections of augite, calcareous spar, steatite, and zeolite, some of which are very beautiful: there is a very extraordinary substance found in the precipitous cliffs, hanging over the Causeway, for which no technical name has yet been discovered ; it very much resembles cinders, and is known by no other name here: being very porous and light, it

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 147

    As the companion tells it

    Ballintoy, in Antrim, sits along the road from Ballycastle to the Causeway, and fossil coal has been noted as existing here. It is the same kind of coal that was found in a vein between the strata of basalt at Bengore, where the headland rises to a height of 328 feet above high water. That vein of wood-coal did not repay the expenses of working, so nothing came of it. Then in the severe season of 1817, a vein of fossil coal was discovered near the Causeway. The poor were much distressed for fuel at that time, and they commenced working the coal for themselves. But the vein was situated under a stratum of basalt pillars, and the roofing fell in. Several persons unhappily perished. This unlucky event has deterred others from renewing the attempt. The same fossil coal has also been discovered at Knocnagor, in the county of Down. So the coal at Ballintoy is part of a wider presence of this material across the north, traced along the coast and into other counties, though none of it proved easy or safe to bring out of the ground.

25. Round tower base at Armoy

    near Armoy · parish · Antrim

    At Armoy, the Yellow-hill, the base of a round tower not enumerated by Ledwich is found, and about two miles inland stands an old castle enclosed by plantation whose history is lost.

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    About one mile farther, turning towards Kenbaan Head, lies Ardmoy, or Armoy, the Yellow-hill. Armoy is a fair town, having six of these public markets annually. The base of a round tower* (not enumerated by Ledwich) is found at this place, and about two miles from this, more inland, an old castle, inclosed by plantation, of which the history is lost.

    Garrick-a-ieve.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 138

    As the companion tells it

    Armoy was called the Yellow-hill. It held six public markets a year. The base of a round tower stands there, one not enumerated by Ledwich. About 2 miles inland stands an old castle, enclosed by plantation, whose history is lost.

26. Ballycarry's Poorly Chosen Village Site

    Ballycarry · townland · Antrim

    Ballycarry consists of a few houses in one street, poorly sited on high ground without water, but fairs are held there three times a year.

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    left, while the road to Island Magee continues on in a direct line. Of the Island, which is about two miles from this separation, we shall speak more fully when the tourist shall have reached Larne, which is the most convenient place from whence to visit this misnamed peninsula. Turning to the: left, and ascending the rising ground, at the distance of two miles and a half from. Carrick-Fergus, on the right, stands Castle Dobbs, a noble mansion, embosomed in trees, and surrounded by an extensive demesne. Here the family of Dobbs appear to have been seated for many years. On the left of the road is seen, on a very commanding site, the mansion of Marriott Dalway, Esq. and his beautiful demesne ealled Bella-hill. Mr. Dalway is the representative of a long line of ancestry in this county, some of whom have been returned to serve in parliament for the town of Carrick-Fergus. Passing under the demesne wall of Bella-hill, on the road-side stands the castellated mansion of the Dalways, consisting of two large towers, connected by acurtain wall, in the centre of which is the entrance. It is kept in excellent repair, and is now used as stables. From the summit of the next hill, is the first view of Island Magee, which appears to be a long tract of ground, exceedingly fertile, thinly inhabited, and without a single tree to diversify the prospect. It greatly resembles the cold view of Anglesea Island from the Caernarvon shore, and the resemblance is greatly strengthened by the intervening arm of the ‘sea, which is about the breadth of the Menai. One mile from Bella-hill is the little village of Ballycarry, or Ballycarey ; it consists of a few houses, forming one street of no great length. The site for a village was badly chosen, being too high, and without water. Fairs are held here the

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 115

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere near here is the little village of Ballycarry, also called Ballycarey. It consists of a few houses forming one street of no great length. The site for a village was badly chosen, being too high and without water. Fairs are held here three times a year. The village sits one mile from Bella-hill, the mansion and demesne of Marriott Dalway, whose family represents a long line of ancestry in this county. Some of the Dalways have been returned to serve in parliament for the town of Carrickfergus. Passing under the demesne wall of Bella-hill, there stands on the road-side a castellated mansion of the Dalways, consisting of two large towers connected by a curtain wall, with the entrance in the centre. It is kept in excellent repair and is now used as stables. The approach to Ballycarry comes by ascending rising ground, about two and a half miles from Carrickfergus. On the way stands Castle Dobbs, a noble mansion embosomed in trees, surrounded by an extensive demesne, where the family of Dobbs have been seated for many years. From the summit of the next hill comes the first view of Island Magee, a long tract of ground, exceedingly fertile, thinly inhabited, and without a single tree to diversify the prospect. It resembles the cold view of Anglesea Island from the Caernarvon shore, and the resemblance is strengthened by the intervening arm of the sea, about the breadth of the Menai.

27. Fruitless coal search near Portmuck

    Portmuck · townland · Antrim

    Gypsum could be raised near Portmuck, where an unsuccessful attempt was made to find coal. A bed of red-ochre over 200 feet thick also exists in the area.

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    "In Island Magee there are several salt springs ; and it has been conjectured, by skilful geologists, that rock-salt will probably be found here. Gypsum could also be raised near Portmuck, where a fruitless attempt was

    32 ROAD TO GLENARM.

    Internet Archive toursinirelandor00wrig, Chapter 119

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, gypsum can be raised from the ground. An attempt was once made to find coal, but it proved fruitless. In the wider ground of Island Magee, several salt springs rise, and skilled geologists have guessed that rock-salt probably lies beneath. A bed of red-ochre over 200 feet thick also runs through this area.