The beauties of the Boyne, and its tributary, the Blackwater

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Pillar stone re-erected in 1798 over insurgents' grave at Tara

   Tara · parish · Meath · 1798

   In 1798, the pillar-stone believed to be the Lia Fail was removed from the Mound of the Hostages and erected as a headstone over the grave of thirty-seven insurgents killed in a skirmish with the military near Tara. The grave is referred to as the 'croppies' grave.'

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   Between the house of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh existed, it is supposed, the ruins of Tea-mur, from which Temur, or Tara, takes its name, in memory of a Milesian queen called Tea. In the centre of the internal mound of the Forradh stands an upright stele or circular pillar-stone, which was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hostages, but was removed to this spot in the year 1798, and erected as a headstone to the grave of thirty-seven of the insurgents, who were killed in a skirmish with the military in this neighbourhood. Dr. Petrie supposes this stone to be the celebrated Lia Fail, on which the early Irish kings were crowned, and which has been generally believed to have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of Fergus Mac Eark, and afterwards removed by Edward I. from Scone to Westminster Abbey. The Lia Fail was the stone so famed in ancient history, which was said to have roared beneath the Irish kings at the time of their in-

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 78

   As the companion tells it

   The road passes through or near the parish of Tara, a place that takes its name from Tea-mur, the ruins of a dwelling remembered in the name of a Milesian queen called Tea. Between the house of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh, those ruins once stood. In the centre of the internal mound of the Forradh stands an upright circular pillar-stone. It was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hostages, but was removed to this spot in 1798 and erected as a headstone to the grave of 37 insurgents killed in a skirmish with the military in this neighbourhood. Dr. Petrie supposes this stone to be the celebrated Lia Fail, on which the early Irish kings were crowned. It was generally believed to have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of Fergus Mac Eark, and afterwards removed by Edward I from Scone to Westminster Abbey. The Lia Fail was famed in ancient history, said to have roared beneath the Irish kings.

2. Round tower of Slane burned by the Danes

   Slane · town · Meath · 948

   A round tower (cloictheach) formerly stood at Slane on the site of the present ecclesiastical ruins. In 948 it was burned by the Danes of Dublin, with its relics and people inside, including Caoinechair, reader of Slane, and the crosier and bell of the patron saint.

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   A cloictheach, or round tower, formerly existed at Slane, and probably stood on the site of the present ecclesiastical ruins, where it must have formed an object of surpassing beauty. It was destroyed by the Danes of Dublin, about the middle of the tenth century. It is alluded to in a great many of the ancient records: the following is, perhaps, the fullest, and at the same time the most intelligible notice of it to the popular reader : " A. D. 948. The cloictheach of Slane was burned by the Danes, with its full of reliques and good people, with Caoinechair, reader of Slane, and the crosier of the patron saint, and a bell, the best of bells?'' An abbey of canons regular was founded here at a very early date, and Archdall (who was rector of Slane) informs us, on the authority of Mezeray's History of France, that it " was remarkable for being many years the residence of a royal prince; for we find that, in the year 653,

   182 ANCIENT TOMB AT SLANE.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 112

   As the companion tells it

   Slane was once marked by a round tower, a cloictheach, that likely stood on the site of the present ecclesiastical ruins. It must have been an object of surpassing beauty. In the year 948, the Danes of Dublin burned it. The ancient records tell what was lost. The tower was burned with its full of relics and good people. Among them was Caoinechair, reader of Slane. The fire took the crosier of the patron saint and a bell, described as the best of bells. An abbey of canons regular was founded here at a very early date. Archdall, who was rector of Slane, tells us, on the authority of Mezeray's History of France, that the abbey was remarkable for being many years the residence of a royal prince. In the year 653, that record runs on.

3. Stone huts of Keel and Keem resembling ancient dwellings

   near Keel · population centre · Mayo · 1835

   In 1835, the villages of Keeme and Keele on Achill Island had circular or oval huts built of water-washed stones without cement, resembling ancient Firbolg dwellings and early monastic cells. From the Goat's Track above Keel, the dwellings looked like pigmy structures scattered over the beach beneath.

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   * We cannot forbear mentioning the following circumstance as corroborative of this opinion. Shortly after the British Association met in Dublin, in 1835, we spent a -week in the island of Achill, and there witnessed some scenes and modes of life which it coidd scarcely be credited were passing at one end of this small kingdom, while at the other the savans of Europe and America were met to discourse on science. There are several villages in Achill, particularly those of Keeme and Keele, where the huts of the inhabitants are all circular or oval, and built for the most part of round, waterwashed stones, collected from the beech, and arranged, without lime or any other cement, exactly as we have good reason to suppose the habitations of the ancient Firbolgs were constructed ; and very similar to many of the ancient monastic cells and oratories of the fifth and sixth centuries, which religious veneration and the wild, untrodden situations where they are located, have still preserved in this country. Those of our readers who have ever passed the Minaune or Goat's Track, on the towering cliff that rises above the village of Keele, with the glorious prospect of Clew Bay and the broad swell of the western Atlantic before them, and have looked down upon the pigmy dwellings, resembling an Indian wigwam, scattered over the beach beneath, may call to mind the scene we describe. During the spring, the entire population of several of the villages we allude to in Achill, close their winter dwellings, tie their infant children on their backs, earn- with them their loys, and some corn and potatoes, with a few pots and cooking utensils, drive their cattle before them, and migrate into the hills, where they find fresh pasture for their flocks ; and there they build rude huts, or summer-houses, of sods and wattles, called booleys, and then cultivate and sow with corn a few fertile spots in the neighbouring valleys. They thus remain for about two months of the spring and early summer, till the corn is sown ; their stock of provisions being exhausted, and the pasture consumed by their cattle, they return to the shore, and eke out a miserable and precarious existence, by fishing, &c. Xo further care is ever taken of the crops ; indeed they seldom even visit them, but return in autumn, in a manner similar to the spring migration, to reap the corn and afford sustenance to their half-starved cattle. With these people it need scarcely be wondered that there is annually a partial famine.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 59

   As the companion tells it

   In 1835, the villages of Keel and Keem on Achill Island had huts that were circular or oval, built of round water-washed stones gathered from the beach, laid without lime or any cement. They were built, as far as anyone could judge, exactly as the ancient Firbolgs built their dwellings. They were very similar to the monastic cells and oratories of the fifth and sixth centuries that still survive in wild places in this country. From the Minaune, the Goat's Track, on the towering cliff above the village, with Clew Bay and the western Atlantic before you, the dwellings looked like pigmy structures scattered over the beach beneath. That same year, the British Association had met in Dublin, and scholars of Europe and America were discoursing on science, while at this far end of the kingdom people lived in huts little changed from ancient times. Each spring, the entire population of several villages in Achill closed their winter dwellings, tied their infant children on their backs, and carried their loys and some corn and potatoes, with a few pots and cooking utensils. They drove their cattle before them into the hills, where they found fresh pasture and built rude huts of sods and wattles called booleys. They cultivated a few fertile spots in the neighbouring valleys and sowed them with corn. They stayed about two months, until the corn was sown, their provisions spent, and the pasture consumed. Then they returned to the shore and lived by fishing. They took no further care of the crops and seldom even visited them. They came back in autumn to reap the corn and feed their half-starved cattle. With these people, there was annually a partial famine.

4. Sunday wrestling at Broadstone harbour

   near Broadstone · street · Dublin

   Brennan, the eccentric writer of the Milesian Magazine known among the lower orders as the 'wraslin-doctor,' presided over and sometimes participated in wrestling matches held on Sunday mornings at Broadstone harbour.

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   The last great patron of Irish wrestling was the witty and eccentric Brennan, the writer of the Milesian Magazine, generally known among the lower orders as the " wraslin-doctor," while among his professional brethren he was commonly denominated " Turpentine Brennan," who used to preside over and sometimes partake in the wrestling matches which took place on a Sunday morning at the Broadstone harbour.

   * From Niall sprung the two great clans of the northern and southern Hy Nialls, who figure so conspicuously in our Irish history.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 20

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Broadstone, Sunday mornings once saw wrestling matches at the harbour. The last great patron of Irish wrestling was Brennan, a witty and eccentric writer of the Milesian Magazine. Among the lower orders he was known as the "wraslin-doctor," while his professional brethren called him "Turpentine Brennan." He used to preside over the matches and sometimes take part in them himself.

5. 1494 Drogheda Parliament Act for border fortifications

   Drogheda · town · Louth · 1494

   At the Parliament held in Drogheda in 1494, an Act was passed requiring inhabitants of the marches to build ditches and castles for defense, as the borders of four shires lay open to Irish raids. The Act specifically referenced the county of Dublin, Kildare, Trim, Meath, and Uriel.

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   From the Statute of Kilkenny, lately published by Mr. Hardiman, in the Irish Archaeological Society's publications, we learn in a note by that learned author, that "in the reign of Henry VII. the influence of the English extended little farther than four counties ; and so straitened were they that it was found necessary to protect them from the incursions of the Irish by a ditch raised along the borders of the Pale. For this purpose an Act was passed in the celebrated Parliament held atDrogheda in A. D. 1494. As this curious Act has been passed over in silence by Cox, and has never been printed, I take the following extract from the original roll, preserved in the Kolls Office, Dublin : ' As the marches of four shires lie open and not fensible in fastness of ditches and castles, by which Irishmen do great hurt in preying the same : it is enacted that every inhabitant, earth-tiller, and occupier in said marches, i. e. in the county of Dublin, from the water of Anliffy to the mountain in Kildare, from the water of Anliffy to Trim, and so forth to Meath and Uriel, as said marches are made and limitted by an Act of Parliament, held by William Bishop of Meath, do build

   * See some notices of the castle of Trim, collected from various authorities ; 1840.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 21

   As the companion tells it

   Drogheda was where a Parliament met in 1494, and what it decided still shapes what people know about the borders of the English influence in Ireland. In the reign of Henry the Seventh, that influence reached little beyond four counties, and those counties were so pressed that a ditch had to be raised along the borders of the Pale to keep the Irish out. The Act passed at that Parliament has never been printed and was passed over in silence by Cox, but the original roll survives in the Rolls Office in Dublin. The Act states that the marches of four shires lay open, with no ditches or castles to defend them, and that Irishmen did great harm by preying upon them. It enacted that every inhabitant, every earth-tiller, and every occupier of those marches must build. The marches named were the county of Dublin, from the water of Anliffy to the mountain in Kildare, from the water of Anliffy to Trim, and so forth to Meath and Uriel. These marches had been set and limited by an earlier Act of Parliament held by William, Bishop of Meath. The note comes from Hardiman, in the Irish Archaeological Society's publications.

6. Annual partial famine among Achill islanders

   near Achill · parish · Mayo · 1835

   The booleying lifestyle on Achill resulted in an annual partial famine, as crops were neglected after sowing and the people subsisted precariously on fishing at the shore. They returned only in autumn to reap the corn and feed their half-starved cattle.

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   * We cannot forbear mentioning the following circumstance as corroborative of this opinion. Shortly after the British Association met in Dublin, in 1835, we spent a -week in the island of Achill, and there witnessed some scenes and modes of life which it coidd scarcely be credited were passing at one end of this small kingdom, while at the other the savans of Europe and America were met to discourse on science. There are several villages in Achill, particularly those of Keeme and Keele, where the huts of the inhabitants are all circular or oval, and built for the most part of round, waterwashed stones, collected from the beech, and arranged, without lime or any other cement, exactly as we have good reason to suppose the habitations of the ancient Firbolgs were constructed ; and very similar to many of the ancient monastic cells and oratories of the fifth and sixth centuries, which religious veneration and the wild, untrodden situations where they are located, have still preserved in this country. Those of our readers who have ever passed the Minaune or Goat's Track, on the towering cliff that rises above the village of Keele, with the glorious prospect of Clew Bay and the broad swell of the western Atlantic before them, and have looked down upon the pigmy dwellings, resembling an Indian wigwam, scattered over the beach beneath, may call to mind the scene we describe. During the spring, the entire population of several of the villages we allude to in Achill, close their winter dwellings, tie their infant children on their backs, earn- with them their loys, and some corn and potatoes, with a few pots and cooking utensils, drive their cattle before them, and migrate into the hills, where they find fresh pasture for their flocks ; and there they build rude huts, or summer-houses, of sods and wattles, called booleys, and then cultivate and sow with corn a few fertile spots in the neighbouring valleys. They thus remain for about two months of the spring and early summer, till the corn is sown ; their stock of provisions being exhausted, and the pasture consumed by their cattle, they return to the shore, and eke out a miserable and precarious existence, by fishing, &c. Xo further care is ever taken of the crops ; indeed they seldom even visit them, but return in autumn, in a manner similar to the spring migration, to reap the corn and afford sustenance to their half-starved cattle. With these people it need scarcely be wondered that there is annually a partial famine.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 59

   As the companion tells it

   The parish of Achill, in Mayo, was a place where an old way of life still held in 1835. A traveller that year spent a week on the island and saw scenes that could scarcely be credited, passing in one corner of the kingdom while the learned men of Europe and America gathered in Dublin to discourse on science. The villages of Keeme and Keele had huts that were circular or oval, built of round water-washed stones gathered from the beach, laid without lime or any cement, much as the ancient Firbolgs were thought to have built their dwellings, and not unlike the monastic cells and oratories of the fifth and sixth centuries. Each spring, the people of several villages closed their winter homes, tied their infant children on their backs, took their loys and some corn and potatoes, a few pots and cooking utensils, and drove their cattle into the hills. There they found fresh pasture and built rude huts of sods and wattles called booleys. They cultivated a few fertile spots in the valleys and sowed them with corn. They stayed about two months, through spring and early summer, until the corn was sown. When their provisions were spent and the pasture consumed by their cattle, they came back to the shore and lived by fishing. No further care was taken of the crops. They seldom even visited them. In autumn they returned to reap the corn and feed their half-starved cattle. With these people there was, every year, a partial famine.

7. Domhnall's feast at Dun-na-nGedh fort, Dowth

   Dowth · townland · Meath

   A large ring fort within the demesne of Dowth (Netterville), approximately 300 paces in circumference with a large opening on the south-western side, is identified by O'Donovan as Dun-na-nGedh—the site where Domhnall held his celebrated feast, a tradition referenced in the Battle of Magh Rath.

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   Within the demesne of Dowth or Netterville is to be seen one of the very largest ring forts or military raths in Ireland, except, perhaps, the Giant's Ring at Belfast. It is about 300 paces in circumference, round the top of the embankment, and has a large opening on the south-western side. This O'Donovan supposes was the fort of Dun-na-nGedh, where Domhnall gave his celebrated feast, to which we alluded at p. 1 76.*

   In the same field, and immediately adjoining the road, and now forming the edge of a quarry, we meet Cloghlea, a por-

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 130

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here stands one of the largest ring forts in Ireland, perhaps second only to the Giant's Ring at Belfast. It measures about 300 paces around the top of its embankment, with a large opening on the south-western side. O'Donovan believed this was Dun-na-nGedh, the fort where Domhnall held his celebrated feast, a tradition recalled in the Battle of Magh Rath.

8. Knockmaroon tumulus and cromlech burial beliefs

   Knockmaroon Hill · hill or hills · Dublin · 1838

   A tumulus at Knockmaroon in the Phoenix Park was excavated by a committee of the Royal Irish Academy in 1838, revealing two perfect male skeletons in a stone chamber. This investigation helped overturn the older belief that cromlechs were altars, establishing instead their sepulchral origin.

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   "We now turn to the Irish heads again, and with them to the second form of burial, the cromlech, where the stone chamber under the centre of a mound is not approached by a passage as in the pyramidal structures at Grange, Dowth, or Rush, and contains one or more skeletons placed in a horizontal or recumbent posture. This is not the place to discuss the old question of the purpose of cromlechs ; the opinion of their being altars seems to have completely given way to their sepulchral use and origin ; and chiefly from the discovery and accurate investigation of a tumulus at Knockmaroon, in the Phoenix Park, near Dublin, by a committee of the Royal Irish Academy, in 1838.* Within this stone chamber two perfect male skeletons were

   * The stone vault, or chamber, of a similar one, is now preserved in our Zoological Gardens.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 139

   As the companion tells it

   Knockmaroon Hill, near Dublin, was the site of a discovery that changed how people understood the old stone monuments of Ireland. A cromlech is a stone chamber buried under the centre of a mound, holding one or more skeletons laid flat. For a long time, people believed these cromlechs were altars for sacrifice. That belief faded, largely because of what happened here in 1838. A committee of the Royal Irish Academy excavated a tumulus at Knockmaroon, in the Phoenix Park. Inside the stone chamber they found two perfect male skeletons. The evidence was clear: these structures were tombs, not altars. The investigation settled a question that had divided antiquarians for years, and gave the cromlech its true purpose as a place of burial.

9. Lady Well at Glyn and harvest Patron

   Glyn · townland · Offaly

   At Glyn, where three roads meet near Ballybogan bridge, a fountain dedicated to the Blessed Virgin known as Lady Well was shaded by a splendid sycamore tree to which votive offerings were formerly attached. A fair and Patron was held there in harvest.

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   tivation. Two objects claim our attention : upon the right hand side of the road, the site of an ancient castle, of which nothing now remains but a cairn of stones ; and a little farther on, Toberaulin, or " the Beautiful Well," another sacred spring shaded by graceful thorns, near which we again join the lower road, which runs parallel with the river as we approach it at the bridge of Ballybogan. Here, at a place called Glyn, where three roads meet in an open space shaded by trees, — one of those calm, peaceful, homestead spots, so frequently met with in England, — we find " Lady Well," a fountain dedicated to " the Blessed Virgin," and a very memorable spot in days gone by. It immediately adjoins the road, and is shaded by a splendid sycamore tree, to which a few votive offerings might, in former days, be seen attached. A fair and Patron is held here in harvest.

   Holy wells abound in this locality, and assist to feed the growing stream, so that the river becomes doubly consecrated, not only by the ruins of sacred edifices which cluster upon its banks, but through the waters which flow into it from so many hallowed springs. Besides the Well of Trinity, and these two just mentioned, we have Tobercro, and also Carbury Well, and not far from the point where the Yellow River pours its waters into the Boyne we have upon the Kildare side the Well of Tobernakill ; — six in all, baptizing the infant Boyne.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 36

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Glyn, three roads come together in an open space among trees, and there you will find Lady Well, a fountain dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. It stands right beside the road, shaded by a splendid sycamore tree. In former days, votive offerings could be seen attached to that tree, small tokens left by people who came to the well. The spot was a memorable one in days gone by. Each year, a fair and Patron were held here at harvest time, drawing people to this calm, peaceful place near Ballybogan bridge. Holy wells abound throughout this locality, feeding the growing stream so that the river becomes doubly consecrated, not only by the ruins of sacred edifices upon its banks, but through the waters flowing into it from so many hallowed springs. Besides Lady Well and the Well of Trinity, there is Toberaulin, the Beautiful Well, shaded by graceful thorns, and also Tobercro and Carbury Well. Not far from where the Yellow River pours its waters into the Boyne, on the Kildare side, stands the Well of Tobernakill. Six in all, baptizing the infant Boyne.

10. Legends and treasure-seeking at Bective mound

    Bective · townland · Meath

    A large sepulchral mound near Bective was partly excavated by peasantry seeking treasure, driven by local legends about an ancient cemetery and occasional discoveries of antique valuables. The top of the mound has been removed over time by these diggings and by gravel extraction.

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    Trubly is three miles from Trim, and about a mile further down the river we again cross the stream, by the bridge of Bective, to visit the noble ruin beside it, which gives name to this locality and title to an Earl. As we approach from Trubly, the southern road cuts through a very fine mound of the sepulchral kind, — indeed one of the largest, though not the highest, on this part of the Boyne, — although diminutive in comparison with those which shall engage our attention lower down. Partly for the gravel and small stones, of which it is for the most part composed, and partly from excavations made by the peasantry seeking for treasure, at various times, the top of this mound has been removed. There exist many legends in the country about this ancient cemetery, kept up by the idle dreams of an imaginative people, and these, coupled with the fact of some antique articles of value having been occasionally discovered there, have conduced, in no small degree, to cause these excavations, and thus to lessen its size. But we have heard of the doings of road contractors, — and the intentions of grand juries also! — with regard to the employment of the stones which form similar structures in other parts of Aleath, which should awaken the attention of those whose patriotism (for this really is one of the instances to which that term may at present be applied) is greater than their agricultural or macadamizing speculations. From this mound we obtain a charming prospect of the yellow battlemented walls and lichen-clad cloisters of the abbey ; and at a point nearly equidistant from the river, on the opposite bank, may be seen a fine specimen of the military raths or duns of the ancient colony who first passed up and settled upon this river's borders.

    108

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 69

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Bective there is a large sepulchral mound, one of the largest on this part of the Boyne, though not the highest. The southern road from Trubly cuts straight through it. For the most part it is made of gravel and small stones, and people have been taking from it for years — partly for the gravel itself, and partly because they have been digging into it looking for treasure. The top of the mound has been removed by all this activity. The diggings happened at various times, driven by legends that circulate in the country about an ancient cemetery here. The stories are kept alive, the book says, by what it calls the idle dreams of an imaginative people. And those stories are strengthened by the fact that antique articles of value have been occasionally discovered at the mound, which has encouraged still more excavation and further lessened its size. The author notes that road contractors and grand juries have also made use of stones from similar structures elsewhere in Meath, and suggests that those whose patriotism is greater than their agricultural or road-building interests might do well to pay attention. From the mound itself there is a fine view of the abbey — its yellow battlemented walls and lichen-clad cloisters — and on the opposite bank of the river, roughly equidistant from the water, a fine example of the military raths or duns built by the ancient colony who first passed up and settled along this river's borders.

11. Olympic-style games and sham battles at Teltown

    Teltown · townland · Meath

    The annual fair at Teltown featured wrestling, boxing, running, horse races, chariot races, and rude theatrical exhibitions including sham battles and aquatic fights on artificial lakes. The sites of these lakes were still pointed out in the author's time.

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    The first notice which the Annals record of Tailtean (the name of which is still preserved in the modern Teltown) is, that in the year of the world 3370, in the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada, " The fair of Tailltean was established in commemoration and in remembrance of his foster-mother Tailte, the daughter of Maghmor, King of Spain, and the wife of Eochaidh, son of Ere, the last king of the Firbolgs."* This fair continued down to the time of Roderick O' Conor, the last monarch of Ireland, and was held annually upon the first of August, which month derives its name in the Irish language from this very circumstance, being still called Lugh-nasadh, or Lugh's fair, — the Lammas day, — to which several superstitious rites and ancient ceremonies still attach throughout the country generally. Upon these occasions various sports and pastimes, a description of Olympic Games, were celebrated, consisting of feats of strength and agility in wrestling, boxing, running, and suchlike manly sports, as well as horse races and chariot races. Besides these the people were entertained with shows and rude theatrical exhibitions. Among these latter are enumerated sham battles and also aquatic fights, which it is said were exhibited upon the artificial lakes, the sites of which are still pointed out. Tradition assigns the site of the fair to that portion of the great rath still existing upon the northern side of the road, and about a quarter of a mile to the north-east of the great fort, or Rath Dubh ; j" and here it is said the most remarkable of the Tel-

    * Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 93

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here at Teltown, the ancient fair of Tailtean was held every year on the first of August. The Annals first record it in the year of the world 3370, during the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada. It was established, as the old words say, "in commemoration and in remembrance of his foster-mother Tailte, the daughter of Maghmor, King of Spain, and the wife of Eochaidh, son of Ere, the last king of the Firbolgs." The fair continued down to the time of Roderick O'Conor, the last monarch of Ireland. The month of August takes its Irish name from this very event, being called Lugh-nasadh, meaning Lugh's fair, the Lammas day, to which several superstitious rites and ancient ceremonies still attach throughout the country. Upon these occasions various sports and pastimes were celebrated, a description of Olympic Games, consisting of feats of strength and agility in wrestling, boxing, running, and suchlike manly sports, as well as horse races and chariot races. Besides these the people were entertained with shows and rude theatrical exhibitions. Among these latter are enumerated sham battles and also aquatic fights, which it is said were exhibited upon artificial lakes, the sites of which are still pointed out. Tradition assigns the site of the fair to that portion of the great rath still existing, about a quarter of a mile to the north-east of the great fort, or Rath Dubh. Here it is said the most remarkable of the Teltown games took place.

12. Lord Justice burns churches and crops in Offaly, 1546

    Offaly · county · 1546

    Lord Justice Anthony St. Ledger launched two punitive raids into Offaly in response to insurgent attacks, plundering the country for fifteen days, burning churches and monasteries, and destroying crops and corn. This was the government's method of suppressing crime and controlling the Irish population.

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    by that chieftain, his captor and kinsman, to Castle Carbury, together with several of the English nobles and ecclesiastics. The celebrated Eed Hugh O'Donnell, when laying waste Aleath and Leinster in 1475, " demolished and burned Castle Carbury and Ballymeyler."" So late as 1546 we read that " the plains of Cairbre and Castle Carbury were plundered and burned" by some of the Irish insurgents, particularly the O'Kellys, the O'Aladdens, and O'Conors. The mode in which this outrage was punished by the high legal functionary of the Government is highly characteristic of the time. " When," say the Annals, " the Lord Justice, Anthony St. Ledger, heard of this. he came into Offaly and plundered and burned the country as far as the Togher of Cruoghan ;" and again, ''the Lord Justice came a second time into Offaly, and remained fifteen days in the country, plundering and spoiling it, burning churches and monasteries, and destroying crops and corn." These notices, from authentic history, afford us some idea of the state of this country in the middle of the sixteenth century ; of the mode taken by its governors to suppress crime, and to gain the affections of the Irish chiefs and people. The modern part of the present castle must have been erected long since these days, probably in 1548, and appears to have fallen gradually into decay. After the Berminghams it passed into the possession of the Cowleys, an English family, the great ancestors of the Duke of Wellington.* From whatever side we approach, it

    * The Hero of Waterloo boasts that he has not a drop of Irish or Milesian blood in his veins, and, so far as the old Irish stock is concerned, he certainly has not (except perhaps a slight collateral rill through the Cusacks of Cushinstown), no more than many other noblemen and gentlemen connected with Ireland, -whom the Times calls Celts. For the following pedigree we are indebted to o\vc learned friend, John O'Donovan:

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    In 1546, the plains of Cairbre and Castle Carbury were plundered and burned by Irish insurgents, the O'Kellys, the O'Maddens, and the O'Conors among them. The Lord Justice, Anthony St. Ledger, heard of this and came into Offaly. He plundered and burned the country as far as the Togher of Cruoghan. Then he came a second time into Offaly and remained fifteen days, plundering and spoiling it, burning churches and monasteries, and destroying crops and corn. The Annals record these events plainly. This was the government's method, the mode taken by its governors to suppress crime and to gain the affections of the Irish chiefs and people. Some idea of the state of this country in the middle of the sixteenth century. These were not isolated troubles. In 1475, Red Hugh O'Donnell, laying waste Meath and Leinster, demolished and burned Castle Carbury and Ballymeyler. The castle itself, the modern part, was probably erected around 1548, long after these days, and fell gradually into decay. After the Berminghams it passed to the Cowleys, an English family, the ancestors of the Duke of Wellington.

13. Columba reads by fingertip light at Clonard

    Clonard · town · Meath

    Among the legendary lore attached to Clonard abbey is a tale that Columba, son of Crimthan, was seen late one night in his cell reading the sacred volume by a supernatural light emanating from the tips of his fingers after his lamp had expired.

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    Amongst the legendary lore attached to this abbey, is a tale of Columba, the son of Crimthan, having been seen late one night in his cell, when his lamp had expired, reading the sacred volume by a light which emanated from the tips of his fingers, as he passed them over the leaves before him.

    At the beginning of this century, and indeed till a very modern date, the ruins of some of the many buildings which once adorned this memorable locality were in existence. Archdall thus describes them : " The entrance into this abbey, on the west side, was through a small building, with a lodge

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 44

    As the companion tells it

    Clonard in Meath carries an old tale about its abbey. Columba, son of Crimthan, was seen late one night in his cell. His lamp had gone out. He was reading the sacred volume by a light that came from the tips of his fingers, as he passed them over the leaves before him. Until a very modern date, ruins of buildings that once stood here were still to be seen. The entrance into the abbey, on the west side, was through a small building with a lodge.

14. Dowth cave and the legend of Boadan the shepherd

    Dowth · townland · Meath · 862

    The cave of the sepulchre of Boadan over Dubhad (Dowth) was among the ancient sepulchres searched by the Danes in 862 AD. The Annals of the Four Masters identify Boadan as the shepherd of Elcmar, linking Dowth to this legendary figure from Irish tradition.

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    mids; but the type and purpose in all is the same. From Llhwyd's description we learn, that when New Grange was examined in 1699, it was found much in the same state which it now presents; that " under foot there were nothing but loose stones of every size, in confusion, and amongst them a great many bones of beasts, and some pieces of deer's horns." Neither in this account, nor in that published in Boate's Natural History of Ireland, does he make any mention, either that "the bones of two dead bodies, entire, not burned, were found upon the floor, in all likelihood the relics of a husband and his wife, whose conjugal affection had joined them in their grave as in their bed!" as related twenty-five years afterwards by Molyneux; nor of the "slender quarry-stone, five or six feet long, shaped like a pyramid," which the latter author states lay on the floor. That these rude bowls or typical urns originally contained human remains, we have little doubt ; but from a careful examination of the authorities which refer to the accidental opening of New Grange, at the end of the seventeenth century, we feel convinced that this monument had been examined long prior to that date; and, therefore, we derive little information from modern writings as to what its original condition was. That the Danes were well aware that these tumuli contained caverns, and probably knowing that gold and treasure was to be found within them, rifled several of those ancient sepulchres, we have undoubted authority ; for in the Annals of Ulster we read the following memorable account of an instance of this description ; and although New Grange (which, as already stated, is a mere modern name, which gives no reference either to its use or locality) is not specified, it may fairly be inferred that it formed one of the group of the Boyne pyramids rifled by the plundering Northmen, a. d. 862. " The cave of Achadh Aldai, and of Cnodhba (Knowth), and the cave of the sepulchre of Boadan, over Dubhad (Dowth), and the cave of the wife of Gobhan (at Drogheda), was searched by the Danes — quod antea non perfection est — on one occasion, that the three kings, Amlaff, Imar, and Auisle, were plundering the territory of Flann, the son of Conaing." The Annals of the Four Masters thus record the same circumstance: "The cave of Achadh Aldai in Mughdhorna-Maighen [Breagh] ; the cave of Cnoghbhai ; the cave of the grave of Bodan, i. e. the shepherd of Elcmar over Du-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 123

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dowth there is a cave that old records call the sepulchre of Boadan. The Annals of the Four Masters name Boadan as the shepherd of Elcmar, a figure from Irish tradition whose grave gave this cave its meaning. In the year 862, three Danish kings — Amlaff, Imar, and Auisle — were plundering the territory of Flann, the son of Conaing. During that campaign the Danes searched several ancient caves along the Boyne, and Boadan's cave over Dubhad was among them. The Annals of Ulster record the event, and the Annals of the Four Masters tell the same story. They searched the cave of Achadh Aldai, the cave of Cnodhba, which is Knowth, the cave of the sepulchre of Boadan over Dubhad, and the cave of the wife of Gobhan at Drogheda. The annalist added in Latin, "quod antea non perfection est" — this had not been done before. The Danes were well aware that these burial mounds contained caverns. They knew these were ancient sepulchres, and they probably believed gold and treasure lay within them. Whether they found anything of value in Boadan's cave, the records do not say. What remains is the fact of the searching itself, preserved in two separate annals, naming the kings who led it and the territory of Flann, the son of Conaing, that they were plundering at the time.

15. Lia Fail: Stone of Destiny that roared beneath Irish kings at inauguration

    Tara · parish · Meath

    The Lia Fail, or Stone of Destiny, at Tara was famed in ancient history for roaring beneath the Irish kings at the time of their inauguration. Dr. Petrie identified the upright pillar-stone on the Forradh as the genuine Lia Fail, though the author remains unconvinced.

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    Between the house of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh existed, it is supposed, the ruins of Tea-mur, from which Temur, or Tara, takes its name, in memory of a Milesian queen called Tea. In the centre of the internal mound of the Forradh stands an upright stele or circular pillar-stone, which was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hostages, but was removed to this spot in the year 1798, and erected as a headstone to the grave of thirty-seven of the insurgents, who were killed in a skirmish with the military in this neighbourhood. Dr. Petrie supposes this stone to be the celebrated Lia Fail, on which the early Irish kings were crowned, and which has been generally believed to have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of Fergus Mac Eark, and afterwards removed by Edward I. from Scone to Westminster Abbey. The Lia Fail was the stone so famed in ancient history, which was said to have roared beneath the Irish kings at the time of their in-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    Through the parish of Tara, the road passes near ground that holds one of Ireland's most disputed stones. Between the house of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh once stood the ruins of Tea-mur, the place that gave Tara its name, in memory of a Milesian queen called Tea. At the centre of the internal mound of the Forradh stands an upright circular pillar-stone. It was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hostages, but was removed to this spot in 1798 and erected as a headstone to the grave of 37 insurgents killed in a skirmish with the military in this neighbourhood. Dr. Petrie supposed this stone to be the celebrated Lia Fail, on which the early Irish kings were crowned. It was generally believed to have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of Fergus Mac Eark, and afterwards removed by Edward I from Scone to Westminster Abbey. The Lia Fail was famed in ancient history, said to have roared beneath the Irish kings at the time of their inauguration.

16. Rathcroghan pillar-stone over Dathi's grave

    near Rathcroghan · monument · Roscommon

    The body of King Dathi was brought to Croghan where the red pillar-stone (cairrthe dhearg) stood as a monument over his grave. The author observed this pillar-stone standing in a field near the cross-roads at Rathcroghan, where it was being used as a scratching stone by grazing cattle.

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    Tuathal, and Tomaltach, were the four servants of trust who carried with them the body of the king. The body of Dathi was brought to Croghan, where the kings of the race of Heremon were for the most part interred, where to this day (1666) the cairrthe dhearg, red pillar-stone, remains as a monument over his grave, near Eathcroghan. That the body of Dathi is interred in the middle of Aonach na Cruaghna is attested by Torna Eigeas, in his poem pointing out the burial-place of the kings of the race of Heremon to the men of Erin." — p. 25. From this we learn not only the use of the pillar-stone, about which, as well as the cromlech (generally but erroneously called a Druid's altar), speculative and imaginary antiquaries — who are usually unacquainted with the Irish language or Irish history — have written so much, and with such an assumption of learning, but also the fact that the graves and monuments of Irish chieftains were well known 200 years ago. The cemetery is still to be recognised among the great Eaths at Croghan, and we have often seen the pillar-stone alluded to, where it stood in a field near the cross-roads of that place, and was used as a " scratching stone" by the fat cattle that grazed among the raths and upon the fertile plains of Eathcroghan.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 114

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Rathcroghan, a red pillar-stone stands as a monument over the grave of King Dathi. When Dathi died, four trusted servants carried his body to Croghan, where the kings of the race of Heremon were for the most part interred. The year was 1666 when the writer recorded that the cairrthe dhearg, the red pillar-stone, still remained as a monument over his grave. That the body of Dathi is buried in the middle of Aonach na Cruaghna is attested by Torna Eigeas, in his poem pointing out the burial-place of the kings of the race of Heremon to the men of Erin. From this we learn not only the purpose of the pillar-stone, but also that the graves and monuments of Irish chieftains were well known 200 years ago. The cemetery can still be recognised among the great raths at Croghan. The author often saw the pillar-stone where it stood in a field near the cross-roads, used as a scratching stone by the fat cattle that grazed among the raths and upon the fertile plains of Rathcroghan.

17. St. Bridget's holy well at Ardsallagh

    Ardsallagh · townland · Meath

    The holy well of St. Bridget still exists at Ardsallagh in the immediate vicinity of the Duke of Bedford's mansion and a few paces from the Boyne. Thorns and elders overhang its waters, wild plants festoon the bank, and an old carved head of St. Bridget with plaited hair remains, described as the very impersonation of a mother abbess.

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    We are not, however, altogether disappointed in our search, for the holy well of St. Bridget still exists here, in the immediate vicinity of the house, and but a few paces from the river. Although a modern cut stone pointed arch has by some tasteless architect been thrown over it, still the thorns and elders that overhang its pure waters, the mullen, the ground ivy, and wild geraniums that droop and festoon the adjoining bank, and the old carved head of St. Bridget, with its plaited hair and prim formal features, — the very impersonation of a mother abbess, — all combine to render this once celebrated spot a pleasing picture. We wish we could say as much for the house, which looks as if it was in a sort of half mourning, being built of very dark — almost black — limestone, with all the quoins, chimneys, and ornamental portions nearly white. Time, however, may greatly assist to remedy this, and soften the glaring effect which it now presents, but we greatly fear it will never add to its height, equalize its proportions, nor mend the deficiency in many of its details. Still, with all this, it is a very fine pile of building, and every well-wisher of the country should rejoice to see such mansions rising in the land. The interior is as yet unfurnished. A series of green terraces,— r-in the olden style, when dipt yew trees, quaint statues, and urns, were their general accompaniments, — lead from the principal entrance down a gentle slope towards the river side.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ardsallagh, St. Bridget's holy well still exists, just a few paces from the Boyne and in the immediate vicinity of the Duke of Bedford's mansion. A modern cut stone pointed arch has been thrown over it by some tasteless architect, but the spot still holds its character. Thorns and elders overhang its pure waters. Mullen, ground ivy, and wild geraniums droop and festoon the adjoining bank. And there is an old carved head of St. Bridget, with its plaited hair and prim formal features, described as the very impersonation of a mother abbess. All of this together renders the once celebrated spot a pleasing picture. The house nearby is another matter. It is built of very dark, almost black limestone, with all the quoins, chimneys, and ornamental portions nearly white, so that it looks as if it is in a sort of half mourning. Time may soften the glaring effect it now presents, but the writer feared it would never add to its height, equalize its proportions, or mend the deficiency in many of its details. Still, it is a very fine pile of building. The interior is as yet unfurnished. A series of green terraces, in the olden style, lead from the principal entrance down a gentle slope towards the river side.

18. Suppression of Teltown-area Patron gathering

    Teltown · townland · Meath · 1819

    A rustic meeting and pastime near Teltown, held on Lammas Day and resembling a remnant of the ancient Teltown sports, was suppressed by local magistrates and clergy about thirty years before the book's publication due to rioting.

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    * This meeting and rustic pastime was, we understand, suppressed by the neighbouring magistrates and clergy about thirty years ago, in consequence of the rioting which generally took place there. It is a remarkable circumstance, and confirmatory of the conjecture of its being a remnant of the Teltown sports, that this assembly, though called a Patron, was not held in honour of any saint, but upon Lammas Day.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 94

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Teltown, a rustic meeting and pastime was held on Lammas Day. It was called a Patron, though it honoured no saint, which supports the belief that it was a remnant of the ancient Teltown sports. About thirty years ago, the neighbouring magistrates and clergy suppressed it, because of the rioting that generally took place there.

19. Tara as chief residence of the Firbolg kings

    near Tara · hill or hills · Meath

    Irish bardic tradition holds that the Hill of Tara became the chief residence of Irish kings upon the establishment of monarchical government under Slainge, the first Firbolg monarch. The site is said to have retained this status until its abandonment in 563.

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    Let us now turn to the immediate object before us. With the peopling of Ireland before the flood, as related in Irish manuscripts, or in the legends detailed by Keating, and, since his time, copied into all the popular histories of this country, we do not now deal. They may, or may not be fact, but they affect not the present subject. All authorities agree in according to this island inhabitants at a very early period, long prior to the Christian era: who those aborigines were, or from whence they came, is involved in the same mystery that hangs over the origin of the early people of Europe generally. In Irish they are generally denominated Firbolgs ; and it is reported that under them a settled form of government was first introduced into this island. In the mixture of fable and fact which relates to these people, either traditional or in our manuscripts, very little of their habits or physical characters has come down to our time. Of this people, says Dr. Petrie, in his learned Essay on the History and Antiquities of Tara, — " According to the Irish bardic traditions, the hill of Tara became the chief residence of the Irish kings, on the first establishment of a monarchical government in Ireland, under Slainge, the first monarch of the Firbolgs, and continued so till its abandonment in the year 563." In an Irish manuscript, the Book of Mac Firbis, written about the year 1650, an account of which, from a translation by Mr. Eugene Curry, has been laid before the Royal Irish Academy, by Dr. Petrie, it is said that "every one who is black, loquacious, lying, taletelling, or of low and grovelling mind, is of the Firbolg descent." To this Firbolg race a Belgic origin has been usually assigned ; those Belgae appear to have been of German or Gothic extraction; and as far as history has left us a trace of this people, they seem to have been followed, and subsequently subdued, by the Celtae.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 134

    As the companion tells it

    The Hill of Tara was, in Irish bardic tradition, the chief residence of the Irish kings. That status is said to have begun with the first establishment of a monarchical government in Ireland, under Slainge, the first monarch of the Firbolgs. The Firbolgs are the people Irish manuscripts generally name as the early inhabitants of this island, long before the Christian era. All authorities agree the island was peopled at a very early period, though who those aborigines were, or where they came from, is wrapped in the same mystery that hangs over the origin of the early peoples of Europe. Under the Firbolgs, a settled form of government was first introduced into Ireland. Tara is said to have remained the chief seat of kingship until its abandonment in the year 563. The record of these people is a mixture of fable and fact, traditional and manuscript, and very little of their habits or physical character has come down. Dr. Petrie, in his Essay on the History and Antiquities of Tara, gives the bardic tradition. An Irish manuscript, the Book of Mac Firbis, written about the year 1650, gives another view. A translation by Mr. Eugene Curry was laid before the Royal Irish Academy by Dr. Petrie. In that book it is said that every one who is black, loquacious, lying, taletelling, or of low and grovelling mind, is of the Firbolg descent. A Belgic origin has been usually assigned to this Firbolg race. Those Belgae appear to have been of German or Gothic extraction. As far as history has left a trace, they were followed, and subsequently subdued, by the Celtae.

20. Wicker corraghs at Drogheda bridge

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    At the bridge of Drogheda, traditional wicker corraghs covered with horse-skin could still be seen on one side while the latest screw-steamers operated on the other. The author notes these skin canoes may be the same in design and execution as those used a thousand years earlier, exemplifying the persistence of ancient customs.

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    been hallowed by events the most interesting in our country's annals. So memorable in ancient history, and so rich in monuments of the past is it, that we fear not to assert that the history of Ireland might be written in tracing its banks. Many a broad smiling plain through which it flows, now green with waving corn, or perfumed and decorated by the wild flowers of a pasture land, or by some delicate female hand cultivated into the elegant garden, in the bowers of which the birds of spring are singing, was once the scene of mortal strife, and crimsoned with the blood of warriors, where the clang of battle, the shout of the victorious, the groan of the dying, and the prayer of the suppliant, alone were heard. Scarcely a ford upon this river but was disputed in days gone by ; every pass was a Thermopylae ; the bardic annals teem with descriptions of its battles ; the fairy lore of other days yet lingers by its tranquil waters ; and scarcely a knoll, or mound, or rock, or bank in its vicinity but still retains its legend. The peasant even yet paddles his corragh, or frail canoe of skins, across its waters, and many of the superstitious rites and customs of our ancestors are still observed by the people of that district. How time runs on, and science widens the circle of her power, yet man and many of his customs remain the same for centuries ; — on one side of the bridge of Drogheda may still be seen the wicker corragh, with its horse-skin covering, the same in design and execution, perhaps, as floated there a thousand years ago ; and on the other we find the latest invented and most improved screw- steamer !

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    At Drogheda, the bridge over the Boyne holds a striking contrast. On one side, the peasant still paddles his corragh, a frail canoe of skins, across the waters. On the other, the latest invented and most improved screwsteamer. The wicker corragh with its horse-skin covering is the same in design and execution, perhaps, as floated there a thousand years ago. How time runs on, and science widens the circle of her power, yet man and many of his customs remain the same for centuries. The Boyne is a river whose banks might hold the whole history of Ireland. It flows through broad plains, green with waving corn, or perfumed and decorated by the wild flowers of a pasture land. These were lands once crimsoned with the blood of warriors, where the clang of battle, the shout of the victorious, the groan of the dying, and the prayer of the suppliant alone were heard. Scarcely a ford upon this river but was disputed in days gone by. Every pass was a Thermopylae. The bardic annals teem with descriptions of its battles. Fairy lore lingers by its tranquil waters. Scarcely a knoll or mound or rock or bank in its vicinity but still retains its legend. Many of the superstitious rites and customs of ancestors are still observed by the people of that district.

21. Witch's Stone legend on Hill of Carrick

    Carrick · townland · Offaly

    A large block of trap rock known as the Witch's Stone stands on the northern brow of the Hill of Carrick above a limestone quarry. Local legend relates that a witch threw the stone from the hill of Croghan at Ireland's early saints, and it landed here; the author notes this is a widely spread legend across northern Europe.

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    The hill of Carrick (the Rock), which very much resembles that of Carbury, and commands a similar extent and beauty of prospect, derives its name from a large block of trap rock, called " the Witch's Stone," which stands upon its northern brow, just over the great limestone quarry. It is evidently the same kind of stone as the large mass of trap which is to be found about ten miles off, near Philipstown, to the south-west of this hill; but whether it is a boulder, and was carried to this spot — which is in the general direction of the great current which appears to have transported the beds of limestone gravel throughout Leinster — by natural means; or was transported there by art for some sacred purpose in early Pagan times, as we know was frequently the case, it is difficult to say. Upon the lower Boyne, near the hill of Dowth, we meet masses of compact basalt, fully as large, which must have been transported there by artificial means. The legend is, that a witch cast this stone from the hill of Croghan, at some of our early saints, and that it alighted here. This is a favourite and widely spread legend in the north of Europe ; in Scotland we find it preserved

    * While we write, we understand there are 1800 paupers in the Workhouse of Edenderry ! There must have been something wrong in the system which produced all this misery in the neighbourhood of such a fertile country.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Carrick, a hill takes its name from a large block of trap rock called the Witch's Stone, which stands on the northern brow over a great limestone quarry. The hill resembles Carbury and commands a similar extent and beauty of prospect. The stone is the same kind as a large mass of trap about ten miles off, near Philipstown, to the south-west. Whether it is a boulder carried by natural means, in the general direction of the great current that transported beds of limestone gravel throughout Leinster, or whether it was moved by art for some sacred purpose in early Pagan times, is difficult to say. The legend is that a witch cast this stone from the hill of Croghan at some of our early saints, and that it alighted here. This is a favourite and widely spread legend across the north of Europe, preserved in Scotland. Near the hill of Dowth, on the lower Boyne, masses of compact basalt fully as large must have been moved there by artificial means.

22. Wretched cabins built on Swift's glebe at Laracor

    Laracor · townland · Meath

    The site of Dean Swift's former glebe house and garden at Laracor has fallen into ruin and neglect. Two wretched cabins have been erected within the old glebe walls, and the once well-stocked garden is now an ill-tilled potato plot overgrown with briars, sedge, and weeds.

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    of the Irish patriot can scarcely be imagined; but he had here other charms and more endearing associations, to which even the votaries of politics and philosophy are not inaccessible. Here Stella and Mrs. Dingley lived, and here they sauntered through the quiet roads with Dr. Raymond, the Vicar of Trim, and with the future author of " Gulliver" and the " Drapier's Letters." Here, on this very bridge which spans the noiseless streamlet, with its sedgy margins of willows and alders, must Swift have often mused; (for who is there that has not mused upon a bridge's battlements when gazing on the current beneath ?) Beside this bridge, on the right-hand side of the road, once stood the residence, and around it the well-stocked garden, of the Dean, but the whole is now (or was when we last visited it) an ill- tilled potato garden ; yet, without guide or cicerone, we were able to trace, from the recollection of the scene as described in the journal to Stella, the pond and bath which existed in this garden, the boundary of its ancient walls, the site of the very willows, some of whose posterity still exist, which hung over the stream, and beneath which the Dean and Esther Johnson so often walked. Some remnants of the brick wall which enclosed the garden, and the stands on which some bee-hives stood, were discovered a few years ago ; but briars and thorns, rank sedge, and luxuriant weeds, are yearly obliterating even the faint traces we refer to. Of the house, a small portion of one of its gable ends is all that now exists; even this, thick and massive as it is, will soon have crumbled away, for, to the disgrace of those connected with the rectory, two wretched cabins have been erected within the site of the walls of Swift's glebe at Laracor.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 61

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the site of Dean Swift's glebe at Laracor. Stella and Mrs. Dingley lived here, and they walked the quiet roads with Dr. Raymond, the Vicar of Trim, and with the man who would write Gulliver's Travels and the Drapier's Letters. Swift mused on the bridge that spans the noiseless streamlet, with its sedgy margins of willows and alders. Beside that bridge once stood his residence, and around it a well-stocked garden. The garden had a pond and a bath, and willows hung over the stream, beneath which Swift and Esther Johnson walked so often. Without any guide, visitors could trace the boundary of the ancient walls, the site of the willows, some of whose posterity still existed, and the stands where bee-hives once stood. Remnants of the brick wall that enclosed the garden were discovered a few years ago. But now the whole is an ill-tilled potato garden. Briars and thorns, rank sedge, and luxuriant weeds are yearly obliterating even the faint traces. Of the house, a small portion of one gable end is all that now exists, thick and massive as it is, and it too will soon crumble away. To the disgrace of those connected with the rectory, two wretched cabins have been erected within the walls of Swift's glebe.

23. Sacred trout of St. Kieran's Well at Castlekeeran

    Castlekeeran · townland · Meath

    St. Kieran's Well, shaded by a hoary ash tree, contains several trout that have not grown in living memory and are held in highest veneration by the local people. When the well is annually cleansed of weeds, the people carefully preserve the fish and replace them afterwards.

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    Within the well are several trouts, each about half a pound weight. They have been there " as long as the oldest inhabitants can recollect," and, strange to tell, they are said not to have grown an ounce within that period ! These fish are held in the highest veneration by the people, who, when the well is being annually cleansed of weeds, carefully preserve the blessed creatures, and replace them as soon as possible.

    About ten years ago a report spread over Meath and the surrounding counties, that Saint Kieran's ash tree vras bleeding, and thousands of people flocked to the place to witness the wonder, and many brought with them vessels and bottles in which they hoped to carry away a portion of the miraculous fluid. With this it was hoped they might perform cures such as " common doctors" could not even attempt.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is St. Kieran's Well, shaded by an old ash tree. Within the well are several trout, each about half a pound in weight. They have been there as long as the oldest inhabitants can recollect, and they are said not to have grown an ounce in all that time. These fish are held in the highest veneration by the people. When the well is annually cleansed of weeds, the people carefully preserve the blessed creatures and replace them as soon as possible. About 10 years ago a report spread over Meath and the surrounding counties that Saint Kieran's ash tree was bleeding. Thousands flocked to the place to witness the wonder, and many brought vessels and bottles hoping to carry away a portion of the miraculous fluid. With this they hoped to perform cures such as "common doctors" could not even attempt.

24. Stones of Dowth removed for road material

    Dowth · townland · Meath

    Large quantities of stones from the Dowth mound were removed at various times to erect buildings or to break up for macadamising the road at its foot. It was rumoured that the county grand jury had formally presented for the stones of Dowth to improve their roads.

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    We mentioned that Dowth, or Dubhadh, had been ransacked by the Danes, during one of their inroads in the ninth century ; where they broached the mound, or whether they examined all its chambers, it is now difficult to say. A considerable gap existed in the western face of the mound, caused by large quantities of the stones of which it is composed having been removed at different times to erect buildings or to break up into macadamizing materials for the road which passes at its foot. It has been said, we hope without truth, that the grand jury of the county on one occasion presented, in form, for the stones of Dowth, to improve the condition of their roads. In this excavation, on the western side, a passage somewhat similar to that of New Grange had long remained exposed ; but, from the falling in of its sides and roof, it was not possible to follow it for more than a few yards on either side. Whether this passage was that originally broken open by Amlaff and his plundering Danes, it is difficult to determine.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 126

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Dowth, a mound that has lost a great part of itself to the road. Large quantities of the stones it was made of were taken away at different times, some to erect buildings and some to be broken up for macadamising the road that passes at its foot. A considerable gap in the western face of the mound marked where the stones had been pulled out. It has been said, though the author hoped without truth, that the grand jury of the county once formally presented for the stones of Dowth to improve the condition of their roads. In that excavation on the western side, a passage something like the one at Newgrange had long remained exposed, but the sides and roof had fallen in, and you could not follow it for more than a few yards in either direction. Whether that passage was the one originally broken open by Amlaff and his plundering Danes during one of their inroads in the ninth century, when they ransacked Dowth, is difficult to determine.

25. Tara's oracular stone and royal traditions

    near Tara · hill or hills · Meath

    Tara is described as the crowning place of its kings, the forum of the sages, and the banqueting hall of the nobles of Erin, dating back at least eighteen centuries. It features the Lia Fail, an oracular stone, along with grassy mounds marking its ancient ceremonial significance.

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    Tara, with its Lia Fail, or oracular stone, and its grassy mounds, stands alone, the crowning place of its kings, the forum of the sages, and the banqueting hall of the nobles of Erin, at least eighteen centuries ago. Then follow the early Christian buildings, the oratories and small missionary churches, sculptured crosses, carved fonts, and round towers, as at Monasteroris, Clonard, Donaghmore, and St. Eark, till such primitive buildings rose into the more stately edifices, churches, and monasteries of Slane, Trim, Bective, and Drogheda. The baronial halls of the Anglo-Normans and proud castles of the Pale stretching along its banks, and commanding every ford and pass, — as at Carbery, Trim, Athlumny, Dunmoe, and Castle- Dexter, — mark another era, and tell of the extended sway of the De Lacys, Husseys, Berminghams, Plunkets, Cusacks, Barnwells, Flemings, Prestons, Petits, Tuites, D' Arcys, and other English chieftains, from the time of the invasion to the age of Elizabeth. Although we do not find

    * For a description of the Firbolgs and Tuatha De Danaans see the ethnological inquiry at the end of this volume, after the account of Dowth.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Tara is a hill of grassy mounds, and it carries an old name for standing alone. They called it the crowning place of its kings, the forum of the sages, and the banqueting hall of the nobles of Erin, at least eighteen centuries ago. The Lia Fail, the oracular stone, stood here among those mounds. Whatever a king was, this was where he was crowned. Whatever a sage had to say, this was where he said it. Whatever the nobles of Erin gathered to feast, this was the hall where they did it. The stone itself was said to speak, to give its sign when a true king stood on it. The mounds you pass are all that remain of that, the grass grown over what was once the centre of the country's memory, eighteen centuries back and more.

26. Trim described as dirty, lazy, and apathetic

    Trim · town · Meath · 1849

    The author describes the modern town of Trim as exceptionally dirty, lazy, and apathetic, contrasting sharply with the well-preserved ancient ruins that surround it. This apathy is presented as a notable characteristic of the town's current living conditions.

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    But we rave of scenes that we have admired, instead of conducting our readers through the town of Trim, and over these ruins in detail. Well, then, — of all the modern towns in Ireland, of our acquaintance, we know few to vie with Trim in dirt, laziness, and apathy; and of all the ruins in the country, we cannot call to mind any more carefully kept or better preserved from decay than these. This preservation of the ruins of Trim is chiefly to be ascribed to the energy and zeal of Dean Butler, the vicar, who has taken immense pains not only to collect a great body of information on the subject of Trim, but also to bring to light and preserve many of its antiquities. The Dean possesses a fine collection of coins, found among these ruins, and has printed and published some notices of the castle and church at Trim, collected from various authorities. These little publications, which, we confess, we would rather have seen in a less dry and more popular form, contain, we believe, the greatest amount of information, in the fewest possible words, of any works we ever read. They are chiefly composed of annals, collected from various ancient records, and arranged in a chronological form, extending — the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Trim, in 1849, earns a hard judgement from one writer who knew the modern towns of Ireland. Of all the towns he was acquainted with, he knew few to vie with this place in dirt, laziness, and apathy. What makes the judgement bite is the contrast. The ancient ruins here, he says, are among the most carefully kept and best preserved from decay of any in the country. That preservation is chiefly owed to Dean Butler, the vicar, who took immense pains not only to gather a great body of information about Trim but to bring to light and preserve many of its antiquities. The Dean held a fine collection of coins found among the ruins. He also printed and published notices of the castle and church at Trim, drawn from various authorities. The writer confesses he would rather have seen these little works in a less dry and more popular form, but they contain, he believes, the greatest amount of information in the fewest possible words of any works he ever read. They are chiefly composed of annals collected from ancient records, arranged in chronological form.

27. Bloc and Bluicni: druidical stones that opened for the king's chariot

    Tara · parish · Meath

    At Tara, two druidical pillar-stones known as Bloc and Bluicni were believed to open out to admit the king's chariot at his coronation. This supernatural tradition links the stones to the inauguration rituals of early Irish kingship.

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    pillar-stone, not unlike some of those at New Grange. This is supposed to be one of the two druidical stones called Bloc and Bluicni, which used to open out to admit the chariot of the king at his coronation.

    Proceeding still southward we pass into the great oval enclosure of the Bath na Biogh, the King's Kath or the Cathair of Crofinn, the most extensive of all the earthen circles at Tara, measuring upwards of 280 yards in length in its longest dimensions. It is obliterated in several places, but a sufficiency still remains to point out its site. Immediately within its northern boundary we find the mound of the hostages, Dumhana-Ngiall, a small circular moat, so named in memory of the hostages which King Cormac took from the different provinces, and on which formerly lay the obelistic monolith, believed to be the Lia Fail, or Stone of Destiny. Nearly in the centre we meet the triple enclosure of the Forradh; and toward the south-east and immediately adjoining the latter, the Teach Cormaic, the House of Cormac.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through or near Tara, in Meath, a place woven deep into Ireland's early kingship. Here stood two druidical pillar-stones called Bloc and Bluicni. One of them is said to resemble stones at New Grange. These stones were believed to open out, parting to admit the chariot of the king at his coronation. Nearby lies the great oval enclosure called Rath na Biogh, the King's Rath, the most extensive of all the earthen circles at Tara, measuring upwards of 280 yards in its longest dimensions. Parts of it are obliterated, but enough remains to mark its site. Within its northern boundary is the mound of the hostages, Dumha na Ngiall, a small circular moat named for the hostages King Cormac took from the different provinces. On it once lay the monolith believed to be the Lia Fail, the Stone of Destiny. Near the centre stands the triple enclosure of the Forradh, and toward the south-east, adjoining it, Teach Cormac, the House of Cormac.

28. Columbkille's monastery at Durrow

    Durrow · parish · Offaly · 550–560

    In the middle of the sixth century, Columbkille received a grant of land from a chieftain named Brendan at Dair-Mahg, the 'plain of the oaks,' now Durrow, and erected a celebrated monastery there. Hugh de Lacy later built his castle beside it, reportedly using materials from the ancient abbey, which excited the wrath of the descendants of Brendan.

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    The true story is this. About the middle of the sixth century, Columbkille having obtained a grant of land from a chieftain named Brendan, in the King's County, at a place called Dair- Mahg, or the "plain of the oaks" (now Durrow), erected there a monastery, which subsequently became very celebrated. "Well, some centuries after, comes the English baron, Hugh De Lacy, — the acknowledged destroyer of churches, — and erects his castle beside it, and even with some of the very materials, it is said, of the ancient abbey, which he destroyed. This naturally excited the wrath of the rightful heirs, the descendants of the ancient lord of Dair-Mahg, the renowned Brendan.

    92 THE DEATH OF HUGH DE LACY.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 60

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through the parish of Durrow, you are near the site of a monastery founded in the middle of the sixth century. Columbkille received a grant of land here from a chieftain named Brendan. The place was called Dair-Mahg, the plain of the oaks, and Columbkille erected a monastery there which became very celebrated. Centuries later the English baron Hugh de Lacy built his castle beside it. He was called the acknowledged destroyer of churches, and it is said he used materials from the ancient abbey itself. This excited the wrath of the rightful heirs, the descendants of Brendan, the ancient lord of Dair-Mahg.

29. Cromwell tradition at the Yellow Tower, Trim

    Trim · town · Meath · 1649–1653

    Local tradition held that Cromwell battered down a portion of the Yellow Tower at St. Mary's Abbey in Trim. The author notes this was the common attribution for nearly every ruin along the Boyne from Trim to Drogheda.

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    The original abbey, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, stood, in all probability, upon the picturesque site of the Yellow Tower which in after ages was erected here, and is stated to be " the most lofty remnant of the Anglo-Xorman architecture now existing in Ireland." It was originally a square steeple, or abbey tower, of gothic architecture ; it is now upwards of 1 25 feet high, and consists of one perfect and two partial walls, which, thus leaving it open on the west, exhibit a series of stories in its interior. It was, in all probability, like many of the other early monastic remains, and the round towers in particular, used as a place of security and defence ; and its great height and commanding position may have caused it to be employed as a watch-tower over the surrounding country. Although the buildings of St. Mary's Abbey adjoining have been removed, a considerable portion of their site can be traced. There is a tradition that Cromwell battered down a portion of this tower ; but we do not find any further authority for this assertion than mere local history : and there is scarcely a ruin along the Boyne, from this to Drogheda,

    * See some notices of the Church of St. Patrick, Trim, by the Eev. Eichard Butler. Dean of Clonmacnoise.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    Trim has a tower they call the Yellow Tower, standing where St. Mary's Abbey once was, an abbey dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The tower is said to be the most lofty remnant of Anglo-Norman architecture now existing in Ireland. It was originally a square steeple of gothic architecture, and it stands now over 125 feet high, with one perfect wall and two partial walls, open on the west so you can see the series of stories inside. It was likely used as a place of security and defence, like many early monastic remains and the round towers in particular, and its great height and commanding position may have made it a watch-tower over the surrounding country. The buildings of St. Mary's Abbey adjoining have been removed, but a considerable portion of their site can still be traced. There is a tradition that Cromwell battered down a portion of this tower in the years 1649 to 1653. The writer finds no authority for this beyond mere local history, and notes that there is scarcely a ruin along the Boyne, from Trim to Drogheda, that does not carry the same story.

30. Fair of Tailltean established at Teltown

    Teltown · townland · Meath

    According to the Annals, the fair of Tailltean was established by Lugh Lamhfhada in commemoration of his foster-mother Tailte. The fair continued annually on the first of August down to the time of Roderick O'Conor, the last monarch of Ireland.

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    The first notice which the Annals record of Tailtean (the name of which is still preserved in the modern Teltown) is, that in the year of the world 3370, in the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada, " The fair of Tailltean was established in commemoration and in remembrance of his foster-mother Tailte, the daughter of Maghmor, King of Spain, and the wife of Eochaidh, son of Ere, the last king of the Firbolgs."* This fair continued down to the time of Roderick O' Conor, the last monarch of Ireland, and was held annually upon the first of August, which month derives its name in the Irish language from this very circumstance, being still called Lugh-nasadh, or Lugh's fair, — the Lammas day, — to which several superstitious rites and ancient ceremonies still attach throughout the country generally. Upon these occasions various sports and pastimes, a description of Olympic Games, were celebrated, consisting of feats of strength and agility in wrestling, boxing, running, and suchlike manly sports, as well as horse races and chariot races. Besides these the people were entertained with shows and rude theatrical exhibitions. Among these latter are enumerated sham battles and also aquatic fights, which it is said were exhibited upon the artificial lakes, the sites of which are still pointed out. Tradition assigns the site of the fair to that portion of the great rath still existing upon the northern side of the road, and about a quarter of a mile to the north-east of the great fort, or Rath Dubh ; j" and here it is said the most remarkable of the Tel-

    * Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 93

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Teltown, where the Annals record that the fair of Tailltean was established in the year of the world 3370, during the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada. The Annals say: the fair of Tailltean was established in commemoration and in remembrance of his foster-mother Tailte, the daughter of Maghmor, King of Spain, and the wife of Eochaidh, son of Ere, the last king of the Firbolgs. This fair continued annually upon the first of August, down to the time of Roderick O'Conor, the last monarch of Ireland. The month of August takes its name in Irish from this very circumstance, being still called Lugh-nasadh, meaning Lugh's fair, the Lammas day, to which several superstitious rites and ancient ceremonies still attach throughout the country. Upon these occasions various sports and pastimes were celebrated, a description of Olympic Games, consisting of feats of strength and agility in wrestling, boxing, running, and suchlike manly sports, as well as horse races and chariot races. The people were also entertained with shows and rude theatrical exhibitions. Among these were sham battles and aquatic fights, said to have been exhibited upon artificial lakes, the sites of which are still pointed out. Tradition assigns the site of the fair to a portion of the great rath still existing near the great fort, or Rath Dubh.

31. Husband and wife bones found at Newgrange

    Newgrange · townland · Meath · 1699

    When New Grange was examined in 1699, Molyneux later related that the bones of two unburned bodies were found on the chamber floor, believed to be the remains of a husband and wife whose conjugal affection united them in death. This tradition, however, does not appear in the earlier accounts by Lhwyd or Boate.

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    mids; but the type and purpose in all is the same. From Llhwyd's description we learn, that when New Grange was examined in 1699, it was found much in the same state which it now presents; that " under foot there were nothing but loose stones of every size, in confusion, and amongst them a great many bones of beasts, and some pieces of deer's horns." Neither in this account, nor in that published in Boate's Natural History of Ireland, does he make any mention, either that "the bones of two dead bodies, entire, not burned, were found upon the floor, in all likelihood the relics of a husband and his wife, whose conjugal affection had joined them in their grave as in their bed!" as related twenty-five years afterwards by Molyneux; nor of the "slender quarry-stone, five or six feet long, shaped like a pyramid," which the latter author states lay on the floor. That these rude bowls or typical urns originally contained human remains, we have little doubt ; but from a careful examination of the authorities which refer to the accidental opening of New Grange, at the end of the seventeenth century, we feel convinced that this monument had been examined long prior to that date; and, therefore, we derive little information from modern writings as to what its original condition was. That the Danes were well aware that these tumuli contained caverns, and probably knowing that gold and treasure was to be found within them, rifled several of those ancient sepulchres, we have undoubted authority ; for in the Annals of Ulster we read the following memorable account of an instance of this description ; and although New Grange (which, as already stated, is a mere modern name, which gives no reference either to its use or locality) is not specified, it may fairly be inferred that it formed one of the group of the Boyne pyramids rifled by the plundering Northmen, a. d. 862. " The cave of Achadh Aldai, and of Cnodhba (Knowth), and the cave of the sepulchre of Boadan, over Dubhad (Dowth), and the cave of the wife of Gobhan (at Drogheda), was searched by the Danes — quod antea non perfection est — on one occasion, that the three kings, Amlaff, Imar, and Auisle, were plundering the territory of Flann, the son of Conaing." The Annals of the Four Masters thus record the same circumstance: "The cave of Achadh Aldai in Mughdhorna-Maighen [Breagh] ; the cave of Cnoghbhai ; the cave of the grave of Bodan, i. e. the shepherd of Elcmar over Du-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 123

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Newgrange, in 1699, a passage into this ancient mound was examined and found much as it appears now. Underfoot there were loose stones of every size in confusion, and among them a great many bones of beasts and some pieces of deer's horns. That is what Lhwyd described, and Boate published much the same in his Natural History of Ireland. But twenty-five years later, Molyneux told something different. He wrote that the bones of two dead bodies were found upon the floor, entire and not burned, and called them, in the source's words, "the relics of a husband and his wife, whose conjugal affection had joined them in their grave as in their bed." Molyneux also described a slender quarry-stone, five or six feet long, shaped like a pyramid, lying on the floor. Neither the two bodies nor this stone appears in the earlier accounts. The writer of this passage argues that the monument had likely been examined long before 1699. The Danes knew these mounds contained caverns and probably gold. The Annals of Ulster record that in 862, when three kings, Amlaff, Imar, and Auisle, were plundering the territory of Flann son of Conaing, the Danes searched the cave of Achadh Aldai, the cave of Knowth, and the cave of the sepulchre of Boadan over Dowth. The Annals of the Four Masters record the same event. Newgrange is not named in the annals, but it may well have been one of the group rifled by the Northmen.

32. King James slept in Donore church before the Battle of the Boyne

    Donore · town · Meath · 1690

    According to tradition, King James II and his staff slept in the little ruined church on Donore Hill the night before the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. The church, of which only portions of walls and the east window remain, also contains the altar tomb of one of the Synnot family.

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    James and his staff took up a position on the summit of the elevation, and His Majesty, it is said, slept in the little church here the night before the battle. Of this ruin nothing now remains but portions of the walls and the east window, beneath which, and within the enclosure of the church, we find the handsome altar tomb of one of the Synnots. It is probable that this church was a ruin in 1690. The view from this point commands the entire scene upon the north and east, including Drogheda and the mouth of the Boyne. It is a lone, deserted spot, seldom visited by the tourist, though memorable as the place at which the sceptre passed for ever from the last monarch of the royal line of Stuart.

    Upon the left, or Louth bank of the river, a bluff hill, sloping off upon its northern face, continues on from Townley Hall towards Drogheda, intersected here and there by deep, narrow defiles, which run down toward the water's edge ; behind it is the rising ground of Tullyallen. At the end of Townley Hall demesne, a deep, narrow gorge, now generally known as King William's Glen, opens out upon the river, from

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 148

    As the companion tells it

    Donore, in Meath, sits along the road near where the Battle of the Boyne was fought in 1690. According to tradition, King James II and his staff took up a position on the summit of the elevation here, and His Majesty is said to have slept in the little church the night before the battle. It is probable that the church was already a ruin at that time. Today nothing remains of it but portions of the walls and the east window. Beneath that east window, within the enclosure of the church, stands the handsome altar tomb of one of the Synnot family. The view from this point commands the entire scene to the north and east, taking in Drogheda and the mouth of the Boyne. It is a lone, deserted spot, seldom visited, though memorable as the place at which the sceptre passed for ever from the last monarch of the royal line of Stuart. On the Louth bank of the river, a bluff hill slopes off on its northern face, continuing from Townley Hall toward Drogheda, cut here and there by deep narrow defiles running down to the water. Behind it rises the ground of Tullyallen. At the end of Townley Hall demesne, a deep narrow gorge, now known as King William's Glen, opens out upon the river.

33. King Loeghaire buried standing at Tara

    near Tara · hill or hills · Meath

    Tradition recorded in this section holds that King Loeghaire, despite resisting St. Patrick, died in his mother church and was buried on the hill of Tara in a standing position, wearing his battle armour.

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    of him. Next day the king came down to the river side, just walking along mighty easily, letting on as if he didn't want to know anything about what happened, but hoping all the while that the bull had made a meal of some of the good Christians. He wasn't long there when some of the saint's servants bid him the time of day, and told him how much they enjoyed the bull, which, we may be sure, was no ways pleasing to his majesty; but to convince him, not only of the truth of the story, but to give him a taste of his power, St. Patrick ordered his servants to bring out the well-picked bones, and to tie them up in the skin, and to throw them into the river to Leary. That was easy enough, but then comes the miracle. The bundle had hardly touched the water, when out of it rose the bull, well and harty, large as life, bone to bone, and sinew to sinew, and swam over to the king. And yet, for all this, history records that the old reprobate died in his mother Church, and was buried in the hill of Tara, in a standing position, accoutred in his battle dress. Conversions of old people or grown up men and women are not as common or as easy as people imagine.

    A short distance above Teltown the river is crossed by Bloomsbury Bridge; but the tourist will find greater and more frequent objects of attraction on the northern bank, till he reaches Donaghpatrick, about a mile and a quarter lowerdown.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 95

    As the companion tells it

    Tara is the old hill the road passes through here, and tradition says a king of Ireland is buried on it, standing upright in his armour. His name was Loeghaire, and the story the book tells is about him and St. Patrick. One day the king came down to the river, walking easy, pretending he did not care what had happened, but hoping a bull had made a meal of some of the good Christians. He was not long there when some of the saint's servants bid him the time of day and told him how much they enjoyed the bull. This was not pleasing to his majesty. St. Patrick ordered his servants to bring out the well-picked bones, tie them up in the skin, and throw them into the river to Leary. That was easy enough. But then comes the miracle. The bundle had hardly touched the water when out of it rose the bull, well and hearty, large as life, bone to bone and sinew to sinew, and swam over to the king. And yet for all this, history records that the old reprobate died in his mother church and was buried in the hill of Tara, in a standing position, accoutred in his battle dress. The book notes that conversions of old people or grown men and women are not as common or as easy as people imagine.

34. The Mule's Leap at Carrick-Oris

    Carrick · townland · Kildare

    Near the summit of the hill at Carrick-Oris, a tradition holds that a mule ran off with a saint from the Church of Carrick. Eight holes said to mark the mule's footprints span about ten yards, and it is believed no grass ever grows upon them. Remains of masonry, possibly an ancient oratory, exist between the two sets of footmarks.

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    Near the summit of the hill there is pointed out " the Mule's Leap," when running off with a saint from the Church of Carrick. Eight holes, marking, it is said, the places of the mule's feet, and showing a distance of about ten yardsbetween the place from which it sprung and where it alighted, are still to be seen, and it is said that no grass ever grows upon these footprints. The locality is worth observing, not for the nonsensical story of the mule, but because there is evidence of some masonry — probably the foundation of an ancient oratory — existing between the two sets of footmarks.

    As this castle still bears the local name of Carrick-Oris, we have a proof stronger than conjecture that it was erected by the Berminghams. It was originally a tall, oblong square tower or keep, a portion of the southern end of which is yet perfect, measuring about thirty-two feet in length. From the extent of the ruins upon the northern side, it must have been nearly ninety feet long : the walls are upwards of four feet thick. This was the court of Pierce Bermingham in 1305, and consequently the seat of the " treacherous baron," so bitterly

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrick, near the summit of the hill, there is a place people call the Mule's Leap. The story goes that a mule ran off with a saint from the Church of Carrick. Eight holes in the ground are said to mark the mule's footprints, and they span about ten yards between where the animal sprang and where it landed. It is said that no grass ever grows upon these prints. Between the two sets of footmarks there is evidence of masonry, probably the foundation of an ancient oratory. The castle here still goes by the local name of Carrick-Oris, which is stronger than conjecture that it was erected by the Berminghams. It was originally a tall, oblong square tower or keep. A portion of the southern end is still standing, measuring about 32 feet in length. From the extent of the ruins on the northern side, it must have been nearly 90 feet long, and the walls are upwards of 4 feet thick. This was the court of Pierce Bermingham in 1305, and the seat of the treacherous baron.

35. Wayside cross tradition at Nevinstown, 1588

    Nevinstown · townland · Meath · 1588

    A wayside cross at Nevinstown bears a black-letter inscription dated 1588, erected by Michael Cusack and his wife Margaret Dexter. Such crosses were commonly erected by individual piety in the sixteenth and preceding centuries but were often mutilated or destroyed by later religious zeal.

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    " This inscription leaves little doubt that this memorial was one of the wayside crosses so generally erected by the piety of individuals about the sixteenth and the preceding centuries, but which the ill-directed zeal of a subsequent period so unsparingly mutilated, and often wholly destroyed. Upon inquiry it proved that a road, leading from Navan to Rathaldron Castle, long the residence of one of the principal branches of the ancient family of the Cusacks, once passed close in front of this cross."

    The name of the husband of Margaret Dexter Mr. Smith soon after learned from a manuscript in the possession of Mr. H. T. Cusack. " This MS. is written in French, and entitled 'An Historical Memoir and Genealogy of the ancient and illustrious House of Cusack, of the Kingdom of Ireland.' It appears to have been compiled by the Chevalier O'Gorman in the year 1767. It states that' Michael de Cusack, lord of Portrane and Rathaldron, married Margaret Dexter, who brought him, as a marriage portion, the castle, town, and lands of Rathaldron. He was ' Greffier' [a term which Boyer translates 'Registrar,' or Keeper of the Rolls] of Westmeath and of Louth in 1553, one of the Barons of the Exchequer in 1580, and died in 15 89-' From this it may be safely concluded that the initials ' M. C upon the cross are those of ' Michael Cusack,' and that his was the name sculptured on the upper part of the cross, now lost."

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stands a wayside cross, and on it a black-letter inscription dated 1588. Such crosses were common in the sixteenth century and before, raised by the piety of individuals, but later religious zeal often mutilated them or destroyed them wholly. This one bears the initials M. C., and a road leading from Navan to Rathaldron Castle once passed close in front of it. Rathaldron Castle was long the residence of one of the principal branches of the ancient family of the Cusacks. The name of the husband of Margaret Dexter was learned from a manuscript in the possession of Mr. H. T. Cusack. That manuscript is written in French and entitled 'An Historical Memoir and Genealogy of the ancient and illustrious House of Cusack, of the Kingdom of Ireland.' It was compiled by the Chevalier O'Gorman in 1767. It states that Michael de Cusack, lord of Portrane and Rathaldron, married Margaret Dexter, who brought him as a marriage portion the castle, town, and lands of Rathaldron. He was Greffier, which Boyer translates as Registrar or Keeper of the Rolls, of Westmeath and of Louth in 1553, and one of the Barons of the Exchequer in 1580. From this it may be safely concluded that the initials M. C. upon the cross are those of Michael Cusack, and that his was the name sculptured on the upper part of the cross, now lost.

36. William wounded at the hillock near the Boyne obelisk

    Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690

    A tradition holds that William of Orange was wounded on the shoulder by the Duke of Berwick's band at a small hillock by the water's edge below the glen on the Boyne. Stones from this hillock were later used to build the obelisk erected beside the spot. The enemy reportedly believed they had killed William, and bonfires were lit in Paris to celebrate his supposed fall.

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    The place where this accident occurred was on the side of a small hillock, by the water's edge, a little below the glen, and from which the stones have been taken to build the obelisk erected just beside it.

    In one of the editions of the Memoirs of the Duke of Berwick there is related a curious account of what would appear to be the same story, of which the following is an outline. The day before the action a considerable number of the officers of the Prince of Orange were standing together in a group. As it appeared probable that the Prince of Orange was one of the number the young Duke of Berwick exclaimed : " 'Behold a splendid opportunity for putting an end to this war ! TVe must attack that troop and destroy the Prince of Orange.' 'And who will dare to do it ?' observed some one. ' I, myself,' said the Duke; and immediately, followed by a band of officers drawn on by his example, he attacked and defeated this very troop where he hoped to find the Prince. He looked about in search of him in defiance of every danger, but the Prince was not there."* This account of a piece of heroism, however, ceases to interest us when we remember the fact that at the time alluded to the Boyne at fall tide was rolling between the belligerents! Of such tales, however, is history, and the history of battles in particular, often composed.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 150

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Oldbridge, on the side of a small hillock by the water's edge, a little below the glen, William of Orange was wounded in the shoulder in 1690. The stones from that hillock were later taken to build the obelisk erected just beside the spot. The wound came from the band of the young Duke of Berwick. The day before the action at the Boyne, a considerable number of the officers of the Prince of Orange were standing together in a group. It seemed probable that the Prince himself was among them. The Duke of Berwick called out, "Behold a splendid opportunity for putting an end to this war. We must attack that troop and destroy the Prince of Orange." Someone asked who would dare to do it. The Duke answered, "I, myself." Immediately, followed by a band of officers drawn on by his example, he attacked and defeated the very troop where he hoped to find the Prince. He looked about in search of him in defiance of every danger, but the Prince was not there. The enemy reportedly believed they had killed William, and bonfires were lit in Paris to celebrate his supposed fall. But the story falters when you remember that at the time alluded to, the Boyne at fall tide was rolling between the belligerents.

37. Mill-Mount and the grave of Gobhan the smith's wife

    Millmount · street · Tipperary · 800–899

    The Mill-Mount in Drogheda is identified as a great sepulchral mound containing the grave of the wife of Gobhan the smith, which was rifled by the Danes in the ninth century. The fortress of Drogheda now stands upon this ancient burial site.

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    The early Irish name of this place, to which we alluded at page 202, was Drochat-Atha (the Bridge of the Ford) ; and the grave of the. wife of Gobhan, the smith, one of those great sepulchral mounds which were rifled by the Danes in the ninth century, is the Mill-Mount on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, on the right or southern bank of the river. In after times the name was anglicised Tredagh.

    We already remarked upon the landing of St. Patrick in 432, at Inver Colpe, at the Boyne's mouth, upon the southern side of the river. From that time to 1641, when it was besieged by Oliver Cromwell, we could trace its annals from year to year, almost without a break.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 155

    As the companion tells it

    A great sepulchral mound, Mill-Mount, holds the grave of the wife of Gobhan the smith. The early Irish called this place Drochat-Atha, the Bridge of the Ford. In the ninth century the Danes rifled the mound, breaking open the burial within it. In later times the fortress of Drogheda stood on the mound, on the southern bank of the river, and the old name was anglicised Tredagh. Saint Patrick landed at Inver Colpe at the Boyne's mouth in 432, on the southern side of the river. From that year to 1641, when Oliver Cromwell besieged it, the annals of the place run almost without a break.

38. Cave of the wife of Gobhan at Drogheda

    Drogheda · town · Louth · 862

    A cave associated with the wife of Gobhan at Drogheda was among the ancient sepulchres searched and plundered by the Danes in 862 AD, as recorded in the Annals of Ulster. The Annals note this had not been done before, linking the site to a named legendary figure.

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    mids; but the type and purpose in all is the same. From Llhwyd's description we learn, that when New Grange was examined in 1699, it was found much in the same state which it now presents; that " under foot there were nothing but loose stones of every size, in confusion, and amongst them a great many bones of beasts, and some pieces of deer's horns." Neither in this account, nor in that published in Boate's Natural History of Ireland, does he make any mention, either that "the bones of two dead bodies, entire, not burned, were found upon the floor, in all likelihood the relics of a husband and his wife, whose conjugal affection had joined them in their grave as in their bed!" as related twenty-five years afterwards by Molyneux; nor of the "slender quarry-stone, five or six feet long, shaped like a pyramid," which the latter author states lay on the floor. That these rude bowls or typical urns originally contained human remains, we have little doubt ; but from a careful examination of the authorities which refer to the accidental opening of New Grange, at the end of the seventeenth century, we feel convinced that this monument had been examined long prior to that date; and, therefore, we derive little information from modern writings as to what its original condition was. That the Danes were well aware that these tumuli contained caverns, and probably knowing that gold and treasure was to be found within them, rifled several of those ancient sepulchres, we have undoubted authority ; for in the Annals of Ulster we read the following memorable account of an instance of this description ; and although New Grange (which, as already stated, is a mere modern name, which gives no reference either to its use or locality) is not specified, it may fairly be inferred that it formed one of the group of the Boyne pyramids rifled by the plundering Northmen, a. d. 862. " The cave of Achadh Aldai, and of Cnodhba (Knowth), and the cave of the sepulchre of Boadan, over Dubhad (Dowth), and the cave of the wife of Gobhan (at Drogheda), was searched by the Danes — quod antea non perfection est — on one occasion, that the three kings, Amlaff, Imar, and Auisle, were plundering the territory of Flann, the son of Conaing." The Annals of the Four Masters thus record the same circumstance: "The cave of Achadh Aldai in Mughdhorna-Maighen [Breagh] ; the cave of Cnoghbhai ; the cave of the grave of Bodan, i. e. the shepherd of Elcmar over Du-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 123

    As the companion tells it

    Drogheda holds a cave linked to the wife of Gobhan, a named figure whose memory the old annals kept. In the year 862, the Danes searched that cave, along with others nearby on the Boyne. The Annals of Ulster record it in plain words. They name the cave of Achadh Aldai, the cave of Cnodhba, which is Knowth, the cave of the sepulchre of Boadan over Dubhad, which is Dowth, and the cave of the wife of Gobhan at Drogheda. The Danes searched them all, and the annalist adds that this had not been done before. The same record tells us why. The three kings Amlaff, Imar, and Auisle were plundering the territory of Flann, the son of Conaing. The Danes knew these ancient mounds held caverns inside, and they likely knew that gold and treasure lay within them. So they broke into the old burial places and took what they found. The Annals of the Four Masters tell the same story, naming the same caves. The cave of Achadh Aldai in Mughdhorna-Maighen, the cave of Cnoghbhai, the cave of the grave of Bodan, called the shepherd of Elcmar, over Dowth. All of them opened and rifled in that one year. The book that preserves this says these were ancient sepulchres, burial places of the dead, and the Danes were the first to violate them. Whatever the cave of the wife of Gobhan held, whatever was placed there in honour of her name, the plundering Northmen took it in 862.

39. Cong village cabins built from carved abbey stones

    Cong · town · Mayo

    The author observes that many of the jambs and window-sills of the wretched cabins in the village of Cong are formed of portions of the beautifully carved pillars and cut stones of the neighbouring abbey, illustrating the poverty and reuse of monastic materials for domestic structures.

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    Much of the adjoining ground is still used as a graveyard, and we regret to see throughout several fragments of the ancient sculpture used as head- stones by the people. This destruction, which has proceeded for so many years in all similar localities in the country, has in no small degree conduced to the dilapidation of several of our finest monasteries. Scarcely a day passes but several of the carved stones, and portions of doors and windows, are rudely torn from their situations, to be placed as head-stones ; and some means, though late, should even now be taken to rescue these remains from further demolition. Even the ancient tombstones, many of which contained valuable Irish inscriptions, have been removed, defaced, or broken.* The graveyard of Clonmacnoise affords a true and lamentable intance of what we assert; and many of the jambs and window-sills to the wretched cabins in the village of Cong, in the county of Mayo, are formed of portions of the beautifully carved pillars and cut stones of the neighbouring abbey.

    Archdall, on the authority of King, relates the history of a desperate murder committed at Newtown in 1307, when several of the friars, rebelling against the prior, killed two or three of their brethren, who endeavoured to oppose their entrance to the cellar. A synod was held here in 1216; and in 1486 one of its priors, Thomas Scurlock, was made Treasurer of Ireland. In

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    The village of Cong sits in County Mayo, and the road passes through it or near it. If you look at the cabins there, you will see something strange in their walls. Many of the jambs and window-sills are made from portions of beautifully carved pillars and cut stones taken from the neighbouring abbey. The people who built these wretched cabins pulled carved stones from the abbey's walls and doors and windows, and set them into their own humble dwellings. This kind of destruction has gone on for years across the country. Carved stones are torn from their places and used as headstones in graveyards. Ancient tombstones, some bearing valuable Irish inscriptions, have been removed, defaced, or broken. The graveyard at Clonmacnoise shows the same lamentable pattern. At Cong, the monastic sculpture survives not as a church or a monument but as the doorframes and windowsills of poor village cabins. The carved pillars that once stood in the abbey now hold up the walls of ordinary homes, their ornamentation worn by weather and daily use.

40. Downshire's low-rent cottages near Edenderry

    Edenderry · town · Offaly

    The Marquis of Downshire provides cottages to industrious tradesmen and labourers near Edenderry for a shilling a year rent. The visible comfort of the local peasantry reflects the encouraging landlord and the admirable care of his resident agent.

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    tages are given by the Marquis of Downshire to industrious tradesmen and labourers at a shilling a year rent. The general appearance of comfort in this district at once bespeaks the encouraging landlord and the admirable care of the resident agent. The peasantry are a remarkably line, stalwart race, and the females particularly handsome. A very admirable road, through a well-cultivated country, takes us nearly parallel with the Boyne to our next resting-place ; a collection of ecclesiastical ruins, about two miles distant from Edenderry, our route still continuing through the King's County.

    Monasteroris, the locality just referred to, consists of the remains of a small clrurch with a double belfry, built, probably, about the fourteenth century, and surrounded by an ancient grave-yard; to the east of this, in one of the adjoining fields, we find the ruins of a castellated monastery, the walls of which are of great strength and thickness ; and not far off, placed upon a mound which bears all the evidence of being artificial, and was probably an ancient tumulus, we observe the basement of a square dove-cot or pigeon-house, a usual appendage to the houses of the English ecclesiastics in Ireland. The accompanying sketch, taken from the south, affords a tolerably good idea of this interesting group of ruins.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    Near Edenderry, the Marquis of Downshire gives cottages to industrious tradesmen and labourers at a shilling a year rent. The general appearance of comfort in this district bespeaks the encouraging landlord and the admirable care of his resident agent. The peasantry are a remarkably fine, stalwart race, and the females particularly handsome. A very admirable road runs through a well-cultivated country, nearly parallel with the Boyne, and about two miles from Edenderry brings you to a collection of ecclesiastical ruins at a place called Monasteroris. There stands the remains of a small church with a double belfry, built probably about the 14th century, surrounded by an ancient graveyard. East of the church, in one of the adjoining fields, are the ruins of a castellated monastery, the walls of great strength and thickness. Not far off, placed upon a mound which bears all the evidence of being artificial and was probably an ancient tumulus, stands the basement of a square dove-cot or pigeon-house, a usual appendage to the houses of the English ecclesiastics in Ireland.

41. Fairy legends and pishogues from Kells to Maiden Tower

    Kells · town · Meath

    Songs, tales, fairy legends, country dances, and stories of pishogues and superstitions, recounted by wandering bards, shanaghies, blind pipers and lame fiddlers, enliven the winter evenings of the Boyne valley from Kells to Maiden Tower.

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    Native music and poetry are not found to flourish on great plains, such as Meath, as luxuriantly as they do in the hills and dells of more elevated regions ; yet the lasses of the Boyne are by no means as sombre and phlegmatic as the men ; and songs, tales, fairy legends, country dances, and planxties, with wandering bards, and shanaghies and their tales of pishogues, thivishes, and superstitions, together with blind pipers and lame fiddlers, are not wanting to enliven the dull, tedious evenings of winter, from Kells to Maiden Tower.f

    * A word applied, in some parts of the west of Ireland, to a merry-making.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    The country around Kells is plain land, and the old writer says native music and poetry do not thrive on great plains like Meath the way they do in hills and glens. Yet the lasses of the Boyne are not so sombre and phlegmatic as the men. The winter evenings here are not without their life. Wandering bards and shanaghies bring songs, tales, fairy legends, country dances and planxties. There are tales of pishogues, thivishes and superstitions. Blind pipers and lame fiddlers play, and all of it enlivens the dull evenings from Kells to Maiden Tower.

42. Funeral custom and preservation of Kilcarn Font

    Kilcarn · townland · Meath

    At Kilcarn churchyard, boys attending funerals had a custom of throwing stones into the ancient sculptured font. An antiquary named Old Walsh buried the font to protect it from damage before it was later moved to Johnstown chapel.

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    place is in this churchyard. About twenty years ago this font stood in the old ruined church, and it was the usual practice for the " boys" who came to a funeral to try who could throw a stone into it with greatest ease and adroitness. Old Walsh, who is " a bit of an antiquary," perceiving the too probable fate of this beautifully sculptured stone, dug a great hole and buried it within the precincts of the church, where it remained until he exhumed it, the year before last, for Mr. Wakeman to make a drawing of it. It is now, as mentioned in the text, in the chapel of Johnstown, where it has been set up as a holy water vessel immediately inside the door, but placed so near the wall that a considerable portion of its sculpture is obscured.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 82

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Kilcarn, there is a churchyard with an old ruined church. About 20 years ago a beautifully sculptured font stood in that church. It was the custom for the boys who came to a funeral to try who could throw a stone into it with the greatest ease and adroitness. Old Walsh, described as a bit of an antiquary, saw what would likely happen to the stone. He dug a great hole and buried it within the precincts of the church. There it remained until the year before last, when he exhumed it so Mr. Wakeman could make a drawing of it. It is now in the chapel of Johnstown, set up as a holy water vessel just inside the door. It stands so near the wall that a considerable portion of its sculpture is obscured.

43. Miracles at St Cassanus's relics at Donaghmore

    Donaghmore · townland · Meath

    According to the Tripartite Life of St. Patrick, the church at Donaghmore (Domnach-mor) was founded by St. Patrick and entrusted to his disciple Cassanus, who prophesied it would remain small but great in veneration. St. Cassanus's relics were kept there and believed to perform healing miracles for visiting pilgrims.

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    " ' While the man of God was baptizing the people called Luaignii, at a place where the church of Domnach-mor in the plain of Echnach stands at this day, he called to him his disciple Cassanus, and committed to him the care of the church recently erected there, preadmonishing him, and with prophetic mouth predicting that he might expect that to be the place of his resurrection ; and that the church committed to his care would always remain diminutive in size and structure, but great and celebrated in honour and veneration. The event has proved this prophecy to be a true one, for St. Cassanus's relics are there to be seen in the highest veneration among the people, remarkable for great miracles, so that scarcely any of

    DONAGHMORE ROUND TOWER. 161

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild

    As the companion tells it

    Near here is Donaghmore. Patrick was baptizing the people called Luaignii at the place where the church of Domnach-mor stands, when he called to him his disciple Cassanus and committed to him the care of the church recently erected there. He told Cassanus it would be the place of his resurrection, and that the church would always remain small in size and structure, but great and celebrated in honour and veneration. The event proved the prophecy true. Saint Cassanus's relics are there, held in the highest veneration among the people, remarkable for great miracles.

44. Peasant custom: Pagan monuments spared, Christian ones dilapidated

    Bective · townland · Meath

    At Bective Abbey, the author observes that the ruins are less desecrated than most ecclesiastical remains in Ireland because the proprietor enclosed them with a wall. He notes the striking contrast in peasant attitudes: they would not disturb Pagan mounds but would wantonly damage or carry off stone from Christian monastic structures.

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    the peasant, -who will not (or rather who heretofore would not), for love or money, touch a stone, or remove a mound believed to be of Pagan origin, will wantonly pollute, or, for ordinary building purposes, dilapidate the noblest monastic structure, or the most sacred Christian edifice !

    Around the ruins of Bective Abbey a young plantation is yearly obscuring its fair proportions. The dark, wide-spreading yew, the gnarled oak, the stunted elder, or the blasted ash, form fit companions for the crumbling wall and falling arch ; but those young trees are anything but suited to the locality, and will, in a short time, completely hide the lower portions of this noble pile. Whether domestic comforts, more than piety and self-mortification, influenced the founders and early tenants of this monastery, or that the condition of the country at the time required a castellated mansion for defence, rather than an edifice erected for the service of religion, it is difficult to say ; but certain it is that while we are able satisfactorily to trace the various halls, corridors, kitchens, galleries, courts, dormitories, and cloisters, it is with great difficulty we can decide upon the situation of the church. Two tall, lancet-shaped arches outside the enclosure on the northeastern side, and the remains of a handsome window, which splays outward from the great court of the building, would lead us to conjecture that it must have been situate adjoining that point. Some have, however, supposed that it stood over the gallery which formed the southern enclosure of the courtyard.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild

    As the companion tells it

    The ruins close to Bective are better preserved than most ecclesiastical remains in Ireland, because the proprietor enclosed them with a wall. The author who came here observed a striking contrast in the attitudes of the peasantry toward ancient sites. He wrote that the peasant, who would not, for love or money, touch a stone or remove a mound believed to be of Pagan origin, would wantonly pollute or, for ordinary building purposes, dilapidate the noblest monastic structure or the most sacred Christian edifice. Around the ruins of Bective Abbey a young plantation is yearly obscuring its fair proportions. The dark wide-spreading yew, the gnarled oak, the stunted elder, the blasted ash, form fit companions for the crumbling wall and falling arch, but those young trees will in a short time completely hide the lower portions of this noble pile. The author notes something curious about the monastery. While the various halls, corridors, kitchens, galleries, courts, dormitories and cloisters can be traced with satisfaction, it is with great difficulty that one can decide upon the situation of the church. Two tall lancet-shaped arches outside the enclosure on the north-eastern side, and the remains of a handsome window which splays outward from the great court, would lead to the conjecture that the church must have stood adjoining that point. Some have supposed, however, that it stood over the gallery forming the southern enclosure of the courtyard. Whether domestic comforts more than piety influenced the founders, or the condition of the country required a castellated mansion for defence rather than an edifice for religion, the author says it is difficult to say.

45. St. Finnian's school at Clonard, 520

    Clonard · town · Meath · 520

    St. Finnian, an immediate successor of St. Patrick, was created first Bishop of Clonard in 520 and opened a school there that produced many men of eminent sanctity and learning, including the two Kierans, the two Brendans, and Columb Kill.

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    The name of this celebrated spot, Clonard, or Cluain Ioraird, hasbeen translated by Ware, Vallancey, and other topographers, *' the Retirement on the Western Heights :" but this meaning is very questionable, for there are no heights, or even hills, in this locality, to which such could refer. Cluain, which is the general prefix to the names of our churches and bishops' sees, means a lawn, an insulated meadow, or level, fertile plain, surrounded by a bog or marsh; in fact a kind of oasis, as we know is the general appearance of such localities in Ireland; and Ioraird is a proper name: we have examples of this in Cluain Mac Nois, Cluain Coner, Cluain Dolcain, &c* Clonard was once the most distinguished bishop's see in Meath, perhaps it would not be exaggeration to say in the kingdom ; and its cathedral may be conjectured to have been one of the very first erected in Ireland, and was probably coeval with Clonmacnoise, and the original buildings at Armagh. It is well known to have been one of the most distinguished seats of learning of which the Irish historians can boast. Ware informs us that St. Finnian, Finen, or Finbar, who must have been one of the immediate successors of St. Patrick, was created first Bishop of Clonard in 520, " where he also opened a school, which, by his care and industry, produced many men of eminent sanctity and learning, among whom were the two Kierans, the two Brendans, the two Columbs (namely, Columb Kill, and Columb, the son of Crimthan), Laserian,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    Clonard was once the most distinguished bishop's see in Meath, perhaps in the whole kingdom. Its cathedral may have been one of the very first erected in Ireland, probably coeval with Clonmacnoise and the original buildings at Armagh. The name Clonard, or Cluain Ioraird, was translated by Ware, Vallancey, and other topographers as the Retirement on the Western Heights, but that meaning is questionable, for there are no heights or even hills in this locality. Cluain means a lawn, an insulated meadow, or a level fertile plain surrounded by a bog or marsh, a kind of oasis, as is the general appearance of such localities in Ireland, and Ioraird is a proper name. The same prefix appears in Cluain Mac Nois, Cluain Coner, and Cluain Dolcain. It is well known to have been one of the most distinguished seats of learning of which the Irish historians can boast. Ware informs us that St. Finnian, Finen, or Finbar, who must have been one of the immediate successors of St. Patrick, was created first Bishop of Clonard in 520, where he also opened a school, which, by his care and industry, produced many men of eminent sanctity and learning, among whom were the two Kierans, the two Brendans, the two Columbs, namely Columb Kill and Columb the son of Crimthan, and Laserian.

46. Stone coffin with tiny urn at Kilbride, Wicklow

    Kilbride · townland · Wicklow

    Rev. Dr. Walsh recorded the discovery of a stone coffin in a wild and solitary mountain area at Kilbride, County Wicklow. The coffin was just large enough to contain a small urn inverted over two small bones belonging to human fingers and toes, with no other body parts present.

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    The Eev. Dr. Walsh has recorded an instance at Kilbride, in the county of Wicklow, where a stone coffin was discovered in a wild and solitary part of the mountain, and just large enough to contain a small urn, which was inverted over two small bones belonging to human fingers and toes, and no other part of the body 1 We are indebted to R. C. Walker, Esq., who has opened a great number of tombs in this country, for an account of a most interesting examination which he made of some tumuli in the county of Sligo, a celebrated locality for sepulchral remains, particularly those of the Firbolgs. Mr. Walker informs us that one kist or tomb, which contained the remains of a great number of skeletons, some evidently burned, and others exhibiting no trace of fire, occupied the centre of a large cairn. Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of this great kist when it is known that one of the stones which formed the side of it was sixteen feet in length, and about six feet in breadth. In this tomb were found six different human interments, which occupied the eastern and western ends, the centre part being unoccupied. The bones were not contained in urns, but were collected together into small heaps that rested upon the " freestone flag," which invariably formed the bottom or floor of the inner tomb. The large bones, such as the arms, legs, and thighs, covered the half-calcined remains of the smaller ones, and the skull surmounted the little pyramid thus formed. Eound the margin of this heap was collected a quantity of the bones of birds, and some of the lower mammalia, together with a number of small shells, principally the land Helix ; and each of these six interments was kept distinct, and surrounded by small freestone flags. No weapon or ornament of any kind was discovered in this tomb. Here, then, in this very remarkable tumuhis of the class denominated " giants' graves," we have remains of nearly every form of interment employed by the aborigines of this country.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 143

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in Kilbride, in a wild and solitary part of the mountain, a stone coffin was found. Reverend Doctor Walsh recorded the discovery. The coffin was small, just large enough to hold a tiny urn. The urn had been placed upside down over two small bones, and those bones came from human fingers and toes. No other part of the body was in the coffin. Only the fingers and toes, covered by the inverted urn, sealed inside stone.

47. Tradition of King James sleeping in a bird-cage house, Drogheda

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    Wooden bird-cage houses formerly existed in Drogheda, one of which was the residence of Sir Arthur Aston, Governor of the town during Cromwell's siege. Local tradition held that King James slept in this house the night he arrived in Drogheda before encamping at Donore.

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    This town contained, according to the last Census, 17,300 inhabitants. In its sunken position within the last defile of the valley of the Boyne, with its narrow, tortuous streets, many of which are ascended by steps, and the number of tall spires and ancient ruins which rise out of the jumble of houses, it bears a resemblance to many continental towns. It is a place of considerable trade; and in the river, below the narrow bridge, the last upon the Boyne, and the only one in Drogheda, may often be seen as many steamers as we find in the Liffey. Up to a very recent period several wooden or bird-cage houses, like those in Chester and some of the old English towns, existed in Drogheda. In one of these it is said Sir Arthur Aston, Governor of this town at the time of Cromwell's siege, resided, and in this house tradition says King James slept the night he arrived in Drogheda, before he encamped at Donore.

    From time immemorial Drogheda has been noted for its ecclesiastical establishments, and the ruins of several still remain ; but they are, generally speaking, scarcely approachable, owing to the quantity of filth by which they are surrounded. The most remarkable of these ecclesiastical ruins is that shown in the accompanying illustration, the Abbey or Church of St. Mary, which spans a dirty lane, now principally used as a stable-yard, behind the upper end of West-street.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 156

    As the companion tells it

    Drogheda sits in the last defile of the Boyne valley, a town of narrow, twisting streets, many climbed by steps, with tall spires and ancient ruins rising from the jumble of houses. The last census counted 17,300 inhabitants. It was a place of considerable trade, and below the single bridge over the Boyne, steamers could often be seen in numbers to rival the Liffey. Up to a very recent period, several wooden bird-cage houses stood in the town, like those in Chester and some of the old English towns. One of these was the residence of Sir Arthur Aston, Governor of the town at the time of Cromwell's siege. And in this same house, tradition says King James slept the night he arrived, before he encamped at Donore. The town has been noted from time immemorial for its ecclesiastical establishments, and ruins of several still remain. The most remarkable is the Abbey or Church of St. Mary, which spans a lane behind the upper end of West-street, now used principally as a stable-yard.

48. Destruction of Tara's raths by a Navan inhabitant for manure

    Tara · parish · Meath · 1847–1848

    One of the raths of Tara was removed the year before last by an inhabitant of Navan for use as manure, and a similar act of desecration was planned for another rath during the present harvest. The author appeals to the proprietor to prevent further obliteration of these historic remains.

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    There were several ancient roads leading through and from the royal residence at Tara, but, without entering into the general history and topography of the place, their description would be uninteresting. We regret to say that one of the raths of Tara was removed the year before last, by an inhabitant of Navan, for manure ; and we understand a similar act of desecration is meditated towards another during the present harvest. Surely the proprietor of the soil, if acquainted with

    * This opinion was likewise held by O'Donovan. See his valuable and voluminous letters on Tara, in the Ordnance Library, which we have lately perused.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Tara holds the remains of a royal residence, with ancient roads leading through it. One of the raths of Tara was removed the year before last by an inhabitant of Navan, who carried it off for manure. A similar act of desecration was planned for another rath during the present harvest. The author called on the proprietor of the soil to prevent any further obliteration of these historic remains.

49. Firbolg race still traceable west of the Shannon

    Shannon · town · Clare

    The author observes that the dark or Firbolg race can still be identified among modern inhabitants living west of the Shannon, distinct from the fair-haired, globular-headed Celtic people found to the north-east of the river.

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    Now we find conditions of head and feature similar to both the early Irish races still existing among the modern inhabitants of this country, particularly beyond the Shannon, towards the west, where the dark or Firbolg race may still be traced, as distinct from the more globular-headed, light-eyed, fair-haired, Celtic people who lie to the north-east of that river. Strange to say, the skull of Swift exhibits most of the peculiarities of this early race, though, as most people assert, he was not of Irish descent ; and any one who has examined the old skulls found in the ancient burial-grounds either in Connaught or in Kerry, must have been struck with the appearances which we have now described.

    We next come to the third form of burial, containing the relics of the second race of people ; for of the first, or those found in the pyramidal structures with the stone passages, we have not seen the remains, and therefore cannot speak as to their form. The vault in which the remains of this second race are generally found is usually beneath the surface, a kistvaen, or small stone chamber, roofed either with a single flag, or covered in with that form of arch resembling a bee-hive dome. There is no tumulus or heap of earth to mark the site of these sepulchres, several of which have been turned up with the plough. Within this small square vault the bones are generally placed in a regular manner, the small ones at the bottom, the long ones, as the legs and arms, at the top, and the whole is crowned with the skull. One of these was found a few years ago in the neighbourhood of Dublin; it is much better proportioned, higher, more globular, and in every respect approaches more to the highest forms of the Indo-European variety of the Caucasian race, than either of the foregoing. It is said, but, we believe, upon very questionable authority, that metallic weapons and instruments have been found in connexion with this foim of burial.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    Travelling through Shannon, you are in country where an old author found the dark or Firbolg race still traceable among the modern inhabitants. He wrote that west of the Shannon, towards the west, the dark race could still be identified, distinct from the more globular-headed, light-eyed, fair-haired Celtic people who lay to the north-east of that river. The observation was not guesswork. He had examined old skulls from ancient burial-grounds in Connaught and in Kerry, and they carried the same features he saw in the living faces around him. He even compared them to the skull of Swift, which exhibited most of the peculiarities of this early race, though, as he noted, most people asserted Swift was not of Irish descent. Beyond the question of living faces, the author described the burial of what he called the second race of people. The first race, found in pyramidal structures with stone passages, he had not seen the remains of, and could not speak as to their form. But this second race was buried in a kistvaen, a small stone chamber beneath the surface, roofed with a single flag or covered with a bee-hive dome. There was no tumulus or heap of earth to mark the site. Several had been turned up with the plough. Inside the small square vault the bones were placed in a regular manner, the small ones at the bottom, the long ones, the legs and arms, at the top, and the whole crowned with the skull. One of these was found a few years before the author wrote, in the neighbourhood of Dublin. That skull was better proportioned, higher, more globular, approaching the highest forms of the Indo-European variety of the Caucasian race. It is said that metallic weapons and instruments have been found with this form of burial, but, he believed, upon very questionable authority.

50. Newgrange as the cave of Achadh Aldai

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    The author identifies the cave of Achadh Aldai, the field of Aldai and ancestor of the Tuatha De Danaan kings, as New Grange. This connection links the monument to ancient Irish mythology and suggests its construction may predate the Christian era.

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    bhath ; and the cave of Gobhann at Drochat-atha ; were broken and plundered by the same foreigners." All these sepulchres were in one territory, the land of Flann, son of Conang, one of the chieftains of Meath; and, in all probability,* the cave of Achadh Aldai, — that is, the field of Aldai, — the ancestor of the Tuatha De Danaan kings, — is that which is now known as New Grange ? How far anterior to the Christian era its date should be placed, would be a matter of speculation ; it may be of an age coeval, or even anterior, to its brethren on the Nile.

    Were we to strip the chamber and passage of New Grange of the surrounding mound, to remove the domed portion of the cave, and to replace the outer circle, at those parts where it is deficient, we should have presented to us a monument not unlike Stonehenge.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 124

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Newgrange lies a place the old records call the cave of Achadh Aldai, the field of Aldai, the ancestor of the Tuatha De Danaan kings. The author of this passage identifies that cave as what is now known as New Grange. He places it among sepulchres in the land of Flann, son of Conang, one of the chieftains of Meath, sepulchres that were broken and plundered by foreigners. He writes that the cave of Gobhann at Drochat-atha was among them. How far anterior to the Christian era its date should be placed, he says, would be a matter of speculation. It may be of an age coeval, or even anterior, to its brethren on the Nile. He goes further. Were we to strip the chamber and passage of New Grange of the surrounding mound, remove the domed portion of the cave, and replace the outer circle where it is deficient, we should have presented to us a monument not unlike Stonehenge.

51. Old man at Bective on Danish origin of raths

    Bective · townland · Meath

    An old man at Bective expressed the folk belief that the raths were made by the Danes, who, when weakened and nearly driven out, lived underground in these forts. The author notes this was a common belief among the peasantry despite antiquarians attributing the structures to pre-Danish Pagan populations.

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    There has long existed an opinion among the reading and middle classes in this country, that these raths are of Danish origin ; but, though still described as such by some of the peasantry, no person of any antiquarian knowledge now believes them to be any other than Pagan structures, erected by the Firbolg, Tuatha De Danaan, Scotic, or Milesian population, and constructed long prior to the first Danish invasion of Ireland. Conversing with an old man at Bective lately, we asked his opinion of these remains : " Ough," says he, " sure it's well known they were med by the Danes, who, when they were nearly bet all out, and grown mighty wake entirely in the counthry, lived under ground in thim same forths."

    Besides the very general belief that exists even among the upper classes of society — an opinion, by the way, chiefly ascribable to the writings of Sir Thomas Molyneux — of the Danish origin of these raths, a certain degree of superstitious reverence attaches to them in the minds of the peasantry, by whom they are often styled " fairy raths" and fairy circles, and are believed

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here at Bective, an old man once gave his view on the raths scattered across the Irish countryside. There was a long-held opinion among the reading and middle classes that these raths were of Danish origin, and the peasantry still described them that way. But no person of any antiquarian knowledge believed them to be anything other than Pagan structures, built by the Firbolg, the Tuatha De Danaan, the Scotic, or the Milesian population, long before the first Danish invasion of Ireland. The author asked the old man his thoughts on these remains. The old man answered in his own words: "Sure it's well known they were made by the Danes, who, when they were nearly beaten all out, and grown mighty weak entirely in the country, lived underground in those same forts." The belief in their Danish origin was very general, even among the upper classes, and was chiefly traceable to the writings of Sir Thomas Molyneux. The peasantry also held a superstitious reverence for the raths, calling them fairy raths and fairy circles.

52. Plague of 1447 kills Prior of Ballybogan

    Ballybogan · townland · Donegal · 1447

    In 1447, a great plague raged across Meath, Leinster, and Munster, killing several hundred priests. Among the victims was the Prior of Ballybogan.

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    only twice by the Four Masters ; once, in the year 1446, in recording the interment of Tany, son of Maoilin, who was interred in the monastery of Baile-ui Bhogain; and again, the year following, when we read of a great plague which raged in Meath, Leinster, and Munster; and by which it is related that several hundred priests died ; among the rest the Prior of Ballybogan.*

    Archdall has collected with great care some curious notices of this monastic edifice, which was founded in the twelfth century by Jordan Comin,f under the invocation of the Holy Trinity, for canons of the order of St. Augustine, and was originally called " The Priory de Laude Dei." By an inquisition taken in the year 1399, " it was found that John O'Mayller, a mere Irishman, and of the Irish sept of the O'Mayllers, enemies to our Lord the King, was instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan ; but Eichard Cuthbert did on the same day make due proof that the said priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary, but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior thereof. Cuthbert was accordingly restored to the temporalities.''^ From the well of Ballybogan, or Lady Well, being dedicated to the Virgin, it is not improbable that there may have been some earlier monastic buildings here under the same invocation, and that hence arose the dispute just referred to.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ballybogan, a monastery once stood, founded in the twelfth century by Jordan Comin under the invocation of the Holy Trinity, for canons of the order of Saint Augustine. It was first called the Priory de Laude Dei. The Annals of the Four Masters mention this place only twice. In 1446, they record the burial of Tany, son of Maoilin, in the monastery of Baile-ui Bhogain. The following year, 1447, a great plague raged across Meath, Leinster, and Munster. Several hundred priests died. Among the dead was the Prior of Ballybogan. There had been trouble here before the plague. An inquisition taken in 1399 found that John O'Mayller, described as a mere Irishman and of the Irish sept of the O'Mayllers, enemies to the Lord the King, had been instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan. But Richard Cuthbert made due proof on the same day that the priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior. Cuthbert was restored to the temporalities. The well of Ballybogan, or Lady Well, was dedicated to the Virgin, and it may be that some earlier monastic buildings stood here under the same invocation, giving rise to the dispute.

53. Skeletons with Saxon coins found at Red Bay

    Red Bay · townland · Antrim · 1849

    In July 1849, four skeletons were discovered in the rocky cliffs above Red Bay near Cushendall, County Antrim. Found with them were stone and bronze celts, as well as two Saxon silver coins from the early ninth century, allowing for the dating of the interment and showing the concurrent use of stone and bronze weapons.

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    of a more globular form than those found in ancient Pagan tumuli, as if intermixture of races had modified the peculiarities of the crania, from the elongated to the true globular or Tuatha De Danaan. And again at the Ford of Kinnafad, we have shown at pp. 38-40, that the skulls and skeletons of both races, as well as the weapons which were probably employed by each, were discovered. The fragments of heads found in the great cairn at Dowth belonged to the long-headed race. Last month (July, 1849), four skeletons were found in the rocky cliffs above Redbay, near Cushendall, county of Antrim. Through the kindness of a friend we possess one of the skulls of these skeletons; it partakes of most of the characters of the long-headed race, but it is somewhat greater in capacity, and approaches the globular form more than those found in the ancient sepulchres of Pagan times. Now what adds particular interest to these human remains is, that a small stone celt or hatchet, and two bronze celts, were found along with them; these weapons enable us to form some conjecture of the probable age of the skulls, and also show that the bronze and stone weapons were used at the same time in this country : but that which fixes the date of the interment of these skeletons was the discovery of two small Saxon silver coins of the early part of the ninth century.*

    From the foregoing observations it is manifest not only that two separate races, the earliest characterized by very long heads, and who were probably the Firbolgs, or first colonizers, and the other by more globular and capacious skulls, and who, it would appear, were the Tuatha de Danaan, the conquerors of the former, existed in this country prior to the Christian era ; but that both races subsequently existed together, and probably amalgamated. Skulls exhibiting both characters may be observed among the present truly Irish inhabitants, but that the more we approach the south and west the more do the former predominate, both in the existing inhabitants, and in the crania found in ancient burial-places.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 146

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Red Bay, in July 1849, four skeletons were found in the rocky cliffs above the shore, near Cushendall in County Antrim. They were buried with a small stone celt, or hatchet, and two bronze celts, and with two Saxon silver coins from the early part of the ninth century. Those coins fix the date of the interment. The weapons show that bronze and stone were in use at the same time in this country. The skull of one of these skeletons partakes of most of the characters of the long-headed race, but it is somewhat greater in capacity, approaching the globular form more than those found in the ancient sepulchres of Pagan times. The author connects these remains to a wider argument about two races in ancient Ireland. One, characterised by very long heads, were probably the Firbolgs, the first colonizers. The other, with more globular and capacious skulls, appear to have been the Tuatha de Danaan, the conquerors of the former. Both races existed in this country prior to the Christian era, and subsequently existed together, probably amalgamating. The skull from these cliffs, with its mixed characters, reflects that intermixture, sitting between the elongated and the globular form. The author notes that skulls exhibiting both characters may be observed among present Irish inhabitants, and that the further south and west you go, the more the long-headed type predominates, both in the living and in the ancient dead.

54. St Patrick and Conall's Rath at Donaghpatrick

    Donaghpatrick · townland · Meath

    According to the life of St. Patrick attributed to St. Erin, Conall, brother of King Loeghaire, resided at Donaghpatrick, accepted Christianity, was baptized, and gave Patrick his house or rath on which to erect a church. The outline of this cashel could still be discerned in the graveyard at the time of writing.

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    troduction of Christianity. It is related in the life of St. Patrick, attributed to St. Erin, and published by Colgan in the Trias Tliaumaturga, that Conall, the brother of King Loeghaire, who resided here, not only gladly accepted Christianity, and was baptized, bnt also showed great kindness to Patrick, and gave him his house or rath on which to erect a church ; and the outline of this very cashel can still be discerned in the present graveyard. The only other evidence of great antiquity now remaining here, is what appears to be a fragment of a gable tombstone similar to that still existing at Slane, of which we give a drawing, in the description of that place (p. 182). It can be seen just protruding above ground to the south of the present church.

    Upon the left of the road, as we approach the church, stands, without exception, one of the very finest raths of the military class to be seen in Ireland. It is of immense size, but, its outline being now obscured by trees and much underwood, it escaped the notice of the Ordnance surveyors, and has not been marked on the map of this part of Meath. It much resembles that at Downpatrick, consisting of a central circular mound, rising gradually out of several circumvallations, or earthen embankments, four of which can still be traced ; the great ring fort at Dowth, and the King's Rath enclosing the Forradh at Tara, and Eath Dubh at Tailtean, extend over a greater space; but of its kind there is nothing to compare with this along the Boyne or Blackwater.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 96

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is St Patrick and Conall's Rath, where Conall, brother of King Loeghaire, once resided. The life of St. Patrick, attributed to St. Erin and published by Colgan in the Trias Thaumaturga, relates that Conall not only gladly accepted Christianity and was baptized, but showed great kindness to Patrick and gave him his house or rath on which to erect a church. The outline of this very cashel could still be discerned in the graveyard at the time of writing. The only other evidence of great antiquity remaining here is what appears to be a fragment of a gable tombstone, similar to one still existing at Slane. It can be seen just protruding above ground to the south of the present church. Near here stands, without exception, one of the finest raths of the military class to be seen in Ireland. It is of immense size, but its outline is now obscured by trees and underwood. It escaped the notice of the Ordnance surveyors and has not been marked on the map of this part of Meath. It much resembles the rath at Downpatrick, consisting of a central circular mound rising gradually out of several circumvallations, four of which can still be traced. The great ring fort at Dowth, the King's Rath enclosing the Forradh at Tara, and Rath Dubh at Tailtean extend over a greater space, but of its kind there is nothing to compare with this along the Boyne or Blackwater.

55. Templar skeleton with Firbolg skull at Larne

    near Larne · town · Antrim

    A skeleton, identified by an iron sword and associated weapons as likely that of a Templar, was discovered at Larne. The skull exhibits what the author calls an Irish physiognomy and a Firbolg form of head, dated to the eleventh or twelfth century.

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    At Larne, in the county of Antrim, a skeleton was lately discovered, which, from the iron sword and other weapons in connexion with it, appeared to have been that of a Templar ; and similar remains were not long since discovered at Kilmainham. This Templar's skull, found at Larne, although it has an Irish physiognomy, and a Firbolg form of head, cannot be dated back farther than the eleventh or twelfth century.

    Wehavetwo instances recorded of human remains found in the bogs of Ireland; one of these, the mummy of which is now in the Eoyal Dublin Society House, was discovered in a bog, nine or ten feet beneath the surface. When first exhumed the body was perfectly fresh, and enclosed in a dress not unlike that in the description given of Gurth in Ivanhoe, — consisting of a tunic of cow-hide, apparently tanned, but with some remains of hair still preserved on the side worn next the skin. This dress is joined in the most accurate and beautiful manner, exhibiting an extraordinary perfection in the art of sewing. The hair on the head, which is both long and fine, is of a dark brown colour, and the skull is compressed in a remarkable manner, owing to a portion of the earthy matter having been removed by the acid of the bog. The body of a man was found under precisely similar circumstances by Mr. E. C. Walker, but it is evidently of more recent date, perhaps not older than the time of Elizabeth ; for the dress, which is of woollen texture, and still quite perfect, is precisely that represented in Walker's Irish Bards.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 145

    As the companion tells it

    A skeleton was discovered at Larne in County Antrim, and from the iron sword and other weapons found with it, it appeared to have been that of a Templar. Similar remains were recently discovered at Kilmainham. The skull, though it has what the author calls an Irish physiognomy and a Firbolg form of head, cannot be dated back farther than the eleventh or twelfth century. The same book records two instances of human remains found in the bogs of Ireland. One, now in the Royal Dublin Society House, was discovered in a bog, nine or ten feet beneath the surface. When first exhumed the body was perfectly fresh, enclosed in a dress not unlike that given of Gurth in Ivanhoe, consisting of a tunic of cow-hide, apparently tanned, but with some remains of hair still preserved on the side worn next the skin. This dress is joined in the most accurate and beautiful manner, exhibiting an extraordinary perfection in the art of sewing. The hair on the head, both long and fine, is of a dark brown colour, and the skull is compressed in a remarkable manner, owing to a portion of the earthy matter having been removed by the acid of the bog. A body of a man was found under precisely similar circumstances by Mr E C Walker, but it is evidently of more recent date, perhaps not older than the time of Elizabeth, for the dress, which is of woollen texture, and still quite perfect, is precisely that represented in Walker's Irish Bards.

56. The Dagda's tomb at Brú na Bóinne

    near Brú na Bóinne · monument · Meath

    The Dagda, a king of the Tuatha De Danaans, has a monument in the cemetery of the Boyne called Sidh-an-Brogha. The text speculates this ancient monument may be one of the large sepulchral mounds visible along the river.

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    at the ford of Ros-na-Righ, in order to inter it in the cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne. The Dagda, whose monument is enumerated in this cemetery, was a king of the Tuatha De Danaans, named Eachaidh Ollathair, whose reign for eighty years, commenced (it is said in the annals) at the year of the world 3371. He was styled Daghda-mor, the "Great Good Fire," from his military ardour; and his monument in the cemetery of the Boyne was called Sidh-an-Brogha. May it not be one of those great sepulchral mounds now in sight, which we are about to describe? Several of the other personages whose monuments are enumerated as being in this great cemetery have been already mentioned.

    About a mile and a half below Slane, and extending along the northern bank of the river, we meet the great Irish cemetery to which we have just alluded. This consists chiefly of a number of sepulchral mounds, or barrows, varying in magnitude, and occupying a space of about a mile in breadth, northward of the river's bank, and stretching from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne, over a distance of nearly three miles. In this space we find the remains of no less than seventeen sepulchral barrows, some of these — the smaller ones — situated in the green pasture lands, which form the immediate valley of the Boyne, while the three of greatest magnitude are placed on the summit of the ridge which bounds this valley upon the left bank, and a few others are to be found at Monk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill, towards Louth ; making upwards of twenty in all, including the remains at Cloghalea, and the great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, and known in the Annals as the mound of the grave of the Wife of Gobhan. This latter, however, is on the right or southern bank.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 115

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Brú na Bóinne lies the tomb of the Dagda. He was a king of the Tuatha De Danaans, and his given name was Eachaidh Ollathair. The annals say his reign lasted 80 years and began in the year of the world 3371. He was styled Daghda-mor, meaning the Great Good Fire, a name taken from his military ardour. His monument in the cemetery of the Boyne was called Sidh-an-Brogha. The writer of the passage asks whether it may be one of those great sepulchral mounds visible along the river. About a mile and a half below Slane, along the northern bank of the Boyne, this great cemetery consists chiefly of a number of sepulchral mounds, or barrows, varying in magnitude. They occupy a space of about a mile in breadth northward of the river's bank, and stretch from Knowth to the confines of Netterville demesne over a distance of nearly three miles. In this space there are no less than 17 sepulchral barrows. Some of the smaller ones are situated in the green pasture lands forming the immediate valley of the Boyne. The three of greatest magnitude are placed on the summit of the ridge bounding this valley upon the left bank. A few others are found at Monk-Newtown, beyond the brow of the hill towards Louth, making upwards of 20 in all, including the remains at Cloghalea and the great moat on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, known in the Annals as the mound of the grave of the Wife of Gobhan, on the southern bank.

57. Trim town population and institutions

    Trim · town · Meath · 1841–1849

    The 1840s Census recorded Trim's population at 2,269 persons. The town possessed a gaol, fever hospital, poor-house, barrack, courthouse, and a school, but its inhabitants were described as having sunk into apathy and listless indifference.

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    It would seem as if the modern inhabitants — perhaps degenerated by the causes which have ever acted in demoralizing small corporations, and owing in part to the unfortunate circumstances of a plurality of landlords, or wanting the stimulus of the warder's bugle, and the exciting scenes when De Lacy's lancers and mailed warriors careered through their narrow streets, when the standard of royalty proudly waved from the tall towers of their -castle, and the mitred abbot and stole-girt priest, with all the gorgeous paraphernalia of the Church, paraded their dull town — have sunk down into apathy and listless indifference. According to the last Census, the population of Trim amounted to 2269 persons, 1124 males, and 1145 females. It has the honour of being the county town, and possesses a gaol, a fever hospital, a poor-house, barrack, courthouse, and a school under the Incorporated Society endowed by Richard first Baron Mornington; and it has been ornamented with a testimonial pillar, erected by the gentry of Meath to the honour of the Hero of Waterloo, who spent some of his early days at Dangan, in this neighbourhood, and who represented this borough the first time he sat in Parliament.

    We cannot say much for the accommodation of Trim ; but we are bound to acknowledge every possible desire to afford comfort and civility. A little more care, and a little more cleanliness, added to the civility which it at present affords, would make the Trim hotel a very desirable residence during a tourist's stay. A coach passes between this town and Dublin twice in the day, and the Navan Railway on the one side, and Midland Great Western on the other, bring the tourist within little more than an hour's drive of the scene we are describing. The immediate suburbs, like all those surrounding ancient monastic remains, exhibit great richness and fertility. Before it enters the town the Boyne widens considerably, but becomes exceedingly contracted while passing beneath the ancient castle. It is crossed by a narrow bridge not unlike that of Drogheda.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes near Trim, a county town in Meath. By the last census its population stood at 2,269 persons, 1,124 of them male and 1,145 female. The town has a gaol, a fever hospital, a poor-house, a barrack, a courthouse, and a school under the Incorporated Society, endowed by Richard, first Baron Mornington. The gentry of Meath raised a testimonial pillar here to the honour of the Hero of Waterloo, who spent some of his early days at Dangan in this neighbourhood and who represented this borough the first time he sat in Parliament. The writer of this passage saw the inhabitants as having "sunk down into apathy and listless indifference." He put it down to the demoralising effects that have ever acted on small corporations, and to a plurality of landlords. He blamed too the loss of older excitement, wanting the stimulus of the warder's bugle, when De Lacy's lancers and mailed warriors careered through the narrow streets, when the standard of royalty waved from the tall towers of the castle, and when the mitred abbot and stole-girt priest paraded the town with all the gorgeous paraphernalia of the Church. As for accommodation, the writer could not say much for it, but acknowledged every desire to afford comfort and civility. A little more care and a little more cleanliness would make the hotel a very desirable residence. A coach runs between this town and Dublin twice a day. The Navan Railway on one side and the Midland Great Western on the other bring a traveller within little more than an hour's drive. The immediate suburbs show great richness and fertility. Before it enters the town the Boyne widens considerably, then becomes exceedingly contracted passing beneath the ancient castle. It is crossed by a narrow bridge not unlike that of Drogheda.

58. Cave of Gobhann at Drogheda plundered

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    An ancient sepulchral cave known as the cave of Gobhann, located at Drochat-atha (Drogheda), was recorded in oral or historical accounts as having been broken into and plundered by foreigners. This was one of several sepulchres in the territory of a chieftain of Meath.

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    bhath ; and the cave of Gobhann at Drochat-atha ; were broken and plundered by the same foreigners." All these sepulchres were in one territory, the land of Flann, son of Conang, one of the chieftains of Meath; and, in all probability,* the cave of Achadh Aldai, — that is, the field of Aldai, — the ancestor of the Tuatha De Danaan kings, — is that which is now known as New Grange ? How far anterior to the Christian era its date should be placed, would be a matter of speculation ; it may be of an age coeval, or even anterior, to its brethren on the Nile.

    Were we to strip the chamber and passage of New Grange of the surrounding mound, to remove the domed portion of the cave, and to replace the outer circle, at those parts where it is deficient, we should have presented to us a monument not unlike Stonehenge.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 124

    As the companion tells it

    Drogheda holds an ancient burial cave called the cave of Gobhann. It was recorded in old accounts as having been broken into and plundered by foreigners. This was not the only one. All these sepulchres lay in one territory, the land of Flann, son of Conang, one of the chieftains of Meath. The cave of Achadh Aldai, the field of Aldai, ancestor of the Tuatha De Danaan kings, is in all probability what is now known as New Grange. How far back its date should be placed before the Christian era is a matter of speculation. It may be of an age coeval with, or even anterior to, its brethren on the Nile. Were the chamber and passage of New Grange stripped of the surrounding mound, the domed portion removed, and the outer circle replaced where deficient, the result would not be unlike Stonehenge.

59. Cormac, the Druid Malgeen, and the Sibhradh at Cletty

    Cletty · townland · Sligo

    A historical tale links Cletty, situated above the Boyne, to the legend of Cormac, who suffered a salmon sticking in his throat due to the Sibhradh (Genii) incited by the Druid Malgeen after Cormac rejected the Druids in favour of God.

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    of a salmon sticking in his throat, on account of the Sibhradh [Genii], which Malgeen, the Druid, had incited at him, after Cormac had turned against the Druids, on account of his adoration of God in preference to them."

    The situation of Cletty is described in the historical tale entitled Oighidh Aluircheartaigh Mboir mhic Earca, thus : •* Good indeed was the situation of that house oyer the margin of the salmon-full, eTer-beautifulBoyne, and over the verge of the green- topped Brugh."' This latter place, is, however, against our theory, but so is it against the situation of Cletty assigned by others to the vicinity of Stackallan Bridge.* and there may "have been, and no doubt were, more Brughs or forts than one. This inquiry is well worthy of further investigation.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Cletty, a place remembered in an old Irish tale. The story tells of Cormac, who turned against the Druids because he chose to adore God in preference to them. In revenge, Malgeen the Druid incited the Sibhradh, the Genii, against Cormac. A salmon stuck in his throat, and that was the cause of his suffering. The same tale describes Cletty in these words: 'Good indeed was the situation of that house over the margin of the salmon-full, ever-beautiful Boyne, and over the verge of the greentopped Brugh.' There has been some dispute about where Cletty truly lay, some placing it near Stackallan Bridge, others here. The old tale is called Oighidh Aluircheartaigh Mboir mhic Earca.

60. Human remains found beneath Drumbo Round Tower

    Drumbo · townland · Down

    Bones and a full-length skeleton were discovered beneath the Round Tower at Drumbo during excavation. A cast of the skull was examined and compared with other ancient Irish skulls, leading the author to conclude the remains were of comparatively modern date and not contemporaneous with the tower's construction.

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    to another locality in which bones of the ancient Irish people are said to have been found. We allude to the Round Towers, particularly to that lately excavated at Drumbo, in the county of Down, beneath which some bones were found. Interest was excited by this discovery, from the supposition that these human remains would offer some clue as to the origin and uses of these monuments, or assist in determining the probable era of their erection. The enchanted palace of the Irish round tower has, however, been opened for our inspection, and therefore all theorizing on the subject is at an end. We were presented at the time of the examination with a very beautiful cast of the skull found within the round tower of Drumbo ; and the moment we saw it we felt convinced that, if it was of a contemporaneous age with the structure beneath which it was found, then the Irish round tower was not the ancient building it is usually supposed to be ; for, compared with the other Irish heads, that skull is of comparatively modern date. Now, nearly all the round towers are in connexion with ancient burial-places, and that one in particular is so, and one need only dig around and without it to find many similar remains. We hear that the skeleton was found at full length, imbedded in the clay, within the ancient structure. Now, if the round tower was erected as a monument over the person whose skeleton was found within, the body certainly would not have been buried thus in the simple earth, without a vault or stone chamber, such as the enlightened architects who built the tower would be thoroughly competent to construct. Moreover, we do not believe that a skull thus placed loosely in the earth, without any surrounding chamber, would have remained thus perfect for the length of time which even the most modernizing antiquaries assign as the date of the round tower.

    Here, however, is a drawing of a Danish head of undoubted authenticity, for which we are much indebted to the Rev. Dr.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 144

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Drumbo, somewhere around here, a round tower was excavated, and beneath it human bones were found. The discovery excited interest, because people hoped these remains might offer a clue to the origin and uses of the round towers, or help determine when they were built. The author was presented with a cast of the skull found within the tower, and the moment they saw it, they felt convinced that if it was of the same age as the structure beneath which it was found, then the Irish round tower was not the ancient building it is usually supposed to be. Compared with other Irish heads, that skull is of comparatively modern date. The skeleton was found at full length, embedded in the clay, within the ancient structure. The author argues that if the round tower was erected as a monument over the person whose skeleton was found within, the body certainly would not have been buried in simple earth, without a vault or stone chamber, such as the architects who built the tower would be competent to construct. Moreover, they do not believe that a skull placed loosely in the earth, without any surrounding chamber, would have remained so perfect for the length of time that even the most modernizing antiquaries assign as the date of the round tower. Nearly all the round towers are in connection with ancient burial places, and this one in particular is so, and one need only dig around and without it to find many similar remains.