The beauties of the Boyne, and its tributary, the Blackwater

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Lady Well of Ballybogan and the Virgin Mary

   Ballybogan · townland · Donegal

   The well of Ballybogan, also known as Lady Well, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This dedication suggests there may have been earlier monastic buildings at the site under the same invocation, potentially explaining a historical dispute over the priory's patronage.

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   Archdall has collected with great care some curious notices of this monastic edifice, which was founded in the twelfth century by Jordan Comin,f under the invocation of the Holy Trinity, for canons of the order of St. Augustine, and was originally called " The Priory de Laude Dei." By an inquisition taken in the year 1399, " it was found that John O'Mayller, a mere Irishman, and of the Irish sept of the O'Mayllers, enemies to our Lord the King, was instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan ; but Eichard Cuthbert did on the same day make due proof that the said priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary, but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior thereof. Cuthbert was accordingly restored to the temporalities.''^ From the well of Ballybogan, or Lady Well, being dedicated to the Virgin, it is not improbable that there may have been some earlier monastic buildings here under the same invocation, and that hence arose the dispute just referred to.

   In 1404 King Henry IV. granted certain lands belonging to the prior of Ballybogan, in the county of Dublin, to one William Stokynbrygge. Dudley Firbisse records the burning to the ground of this priory about the middle of the fifteenth century. The last prior was Thomas Bermingham, and the following inventory of his possessions has been preserved upon the surrender of his church property to Henry VIII., in 1537-

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 39

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is a place called Lady Well, the well of Ballybogan, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its name points back to an old dispute. In the twelfth century, Jordan Comin founded a priory here under the invocation of the Holy Trinity, for canons of the order of St. Augustine. It was originally called the Priory de Laude Dei. But in 1399, an inquisition found that John O'Mayller, described as a mere Irishman of the O'Mayllers sept and enemies to the Lord the King, had been instituted to the priory of the Blessed Virgin of Ballybogan. On the same day, Richard Cuthbert made due proof that the priory was not under the invocation of the Virgin Mary but dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and that he was the lawful prior. Cuthbert was accordingly restored to the temporalities. The fact that Lady Well itself is dedicated to the Virgin suggests there may have been earlier monastic buildings here under that same invocation, and that this is what gave rise to the dispute. In 1404, King Henry IV granted certain lands belonging to the prior of Ballybogan, in the county of Dublin, to one William Stokynbrygge. Dudley Firbisse records the burning to the ground of this priory about the middle of the fifteenth century. The last prior was Thomas Bermingham, and an inventory of his possessions was preserved upon the surrender of his church property to Henry VIII in 1537.

2. Sepulchral vases in Phoenix Park tumulus

   Phoenix Park · electoral division · Dublin

   Four sepulchral vases containing ashes and burned bones were found in a tumulus in the Phoenix Park, enclosed in small separate stone chambers but not within the cromlech itself. The find illustrated the connexion between cinerary urns and cromlech burial.

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   The second circumstance under which we find cinerary urns is in connexion with the cromlech ; and the third, with the small stone kist : an example of the first of which was well shown in the tumulus in the Phoenix Park, where four sepulchral vases, containing ashes and burned bones, were found throughout the tumulus, enclosed in small separate stone chambers, but not within the cromlech itself; whereas in the third form, as in the kist at Dunamase, the vase is found in immediate connexion with the body, and within the chamber. To what period, or to what particular people these urns belong, it is difficult to determine, for we find them with nearly every form of burial among our ancient people. The condition of their contents determines the point as to the ancient people of this country burning their dead ; but whether as a sacrificial or funereal rite we leave to the antiquarians to determine. This we may remark, that where found by themselves, as at the " Hill of Eath," they appear to have been funereal, while the circumstance of an urn containing human burned bones being placed within the tumulus or beside the body, the skeleton of which has been found perfect in all its parts, and therefore none of it subject to the action of fire, leads one to suppose that the person whose ashes the urn contains was sacrificed to the manes of the individual for whose body the tumulus or stone chamber

   * It is said that a thin scale of copper was also found in one of the urns ; but we think that the way in which this got there is very questionable, and by no means proves that the people who placed these urns in this ancient burialplace had any acquaintance with the use of metals. A somewhat similar collection of urns, occurring at Loughanmore, in the county of Antrim, has been described by the same gentleman, but the description of the former will here suffice. Why does not some industrious antiquary write a paper on our Irish urns ? The materials for it are most abundant.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 143

   As the companion tells it

   As the road takes you through Phoenix Park, there is a tumulus here that held a striking burial find. Four sepulchral vases were found throughout the tumulus, each containing ashes and burned bones. They were enclosed in small separate stone chambers, but not within the cromlech itself. The find showed how cinerary urns could be connected with cromlech burial, the urns placed nearby rather than inside the stone structure. To what period or what particular people these urns belong is difficult to determine, because they turn up with nearly every form of burial among the ancient people of this country. The condition of what was inside them, the ashes and the burned bones, settles the point that the ancient people of this country burned their dead. Whether this was a sacrificial rite or a funereal one, the text leaves to the antiquarians to determine. It does offer a distinction. Where urns are found by themselves, as at the Hill of Eath, they appear to have been funereal. But where an urn containing human burned bones is placed within the tumulus or beside a body whose skeleton has been found perfect in all its parts, and therefore untouched by fire, it leads one to suppose that the person whose ashes the urn contains was sacrificed to the spirit of the individual for whose body the tumulus or stone chamber was made. It is said that a thin scale of copper was found in one of the urns, but the writer thinks the way it got there is questionable, and that it by no means proves the people who placed these urns had any acquaintance with the use of metals. A similar collection of urns was found at Loughanmore in the county of Antrim. The writer closes by asking why some industrious antiquary does not write a paper on Irish urns, for the materials are most abundant.

3. St. Erc's Hermitage: hermits and tomb of the Earls of Drogheda

   Slane · town · Meath · 1512

   The hermitage of St. Erc near Slane Castle, named after the first Bishop of Slane consecrated by St. Patrick, was the retreat of hermits Malachi and Donat O'Brien in 1512. It contains the tomb of the Earls of Drogheda and displays a mixture of round and pointed arches from different building eras.

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   It takes its name from Ere, " the sweet-spoken judge," the first Bishop of Slane, who was consecrated by St. Patrick, and died a. d. 514.* It was afterwards the retreat of Malachi and Donat O'Brien, two hermits, who resided here in 1512. Over the pointed door we find the fleur-delis, and upon the inner doorway some rose ornaments, rather unusual in Irish architecture. Within the little chapel is the tomb of the Earls of Drogheda, and upon the walk above the hermitage there lies a handsome sculptured stone, with twelve figures upon it, evidently a portion of an ancient tomb, and well worthy the attentive examination of the antiquarian student.

   From the mixture of round and pointed arches, as well as the evident difference in the styles of masonry, it is manifest that this building at St.Erc's was erected or remodelled at two different eras.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 109

   As the companion tells it

   Slane holds a hermitage that takes its name from Erc, called the sweet-spoken judge, the first Bishop of Slane, consecrated by St. Patrick, who died in 514. It was afterwards the retreat of Malachi and Donat O'Brien, two hermits who resided here in 1512. Over the pointed door is the fleur-de-lis, and upon the inner doorway are rose ornaments, rather unusual in Irish architecture. Within the little chapel is the tomb of the Earls of Drogheda. Upon the walk above the hermitage lies a handsome sculptured stone, with twelve figures upon it, evidently a portion of an ancient tomb. From the mixture of round and pointed arches, as well as the evident difference in the styles of masonry, it is manifest that this building was erected or remodelled at two different eras.

4. Witch's stone blasted at Carrick-Oris

   Carrick · townland · Kildare

   A stone known locally as the witch's stone at Carrick-Oris was split by a quarryman using blasting powder a few years before the book's writing. As a consequence of this wanton destruction, the quarryman was forced to leave the area.

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   Some mischievous quarryman split this witch's stone, by blasting it, a few years ago. For this wanton act he was obliged to leave that part of the country.

   Near the summit of the hill there is pointed out " the Mule's Leap," when running off with a saint from the Church of Carrick. Eight holes, marking, it is said, the places of the mule's feet, and showing a distance of about ten yardsbetween the place from which it sprung and where it alighted, are still to be seen, and it is said that no grass ever grows upon these footprints. The locality is worth observing, not for the nonsensical story of the mule, but because there is evidence of some masonry — probably the foundation of an ancient oratory — existing between the two sets of footmarks.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 35

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here there was a stone people called the witch's stone, at Carrick-Oris. A quarryman split it with blasting powder a few years ago. For that wanton act he was obliged to leave that part of the country. The stone is gone now, blasted apart, and whatever people knew about it went with it.

5. Cape Clear tradition of the first Cross raised in Ireland

   Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork · 400–500

   A Munster tradition, preserved in the Books of Lecan and Ballymote and cited by Ussher, Harris, and Dr. Smith, holds that the first Irish believers in Christ received the Cross on the strand of Tra-Kieran on Cape Clear island, where it was originally raised and still stands.

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   that they were the first Irish believers in Christ, and that the Cross was originally raised in Ireland (where it still stands) on the strand of Tra-Kieran, on the island of Cape Clear. This Munster tradition has been preserved in the Books of Lecan and Ballymote, and given to the world by Ussher, Harris, Dr. Smith, and a host of other writers.

   1 4 CAMBRENSIS' DESCRIPTION OF MEATH.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 18

   As the companion tells it

   There is a Munster tradition on Cape Clear, preserved in the Books of Lecan and Ballymote and given to the world by Ussher, Harris, Dr. Smith, and other writers. The first Irish believers in Christ received the Cross on the strand of Tra-Kieran. The Cross was originally raised in Ireland on that strand, and it still stands there.

6. Greek Church tradition at Trim

   Trim · town · Meath

   A church at Trim known as 'Giwcorum Ecclesia' was traditionally believed to evidence Grecian settlers in Ireland. Sir James Ware noted traces of ancient Grecians at this site, though the name may equally derive from architectural style or worship peculiarities rather than actual Grecian settlement.

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   There were also a nunnery and a Greek church at Trim, which latter has been supposed to afford some evidence of a Grecian people settling in Ireland. Sir James Ware says : " I confess, indeed, that there remain some small traces of the ancient Grecians having been in this country, in a church at Trim, in Meath, called Giwcorum Ecclesia ;" but as the only foundation for this supposition merely consists in the name, it may as likely have been given from some peculiarity in the doctrines or form of worship of those who frequented it, or from some similarity in its architecture to the Grecian or Pelasgic type, as we now speak of Grecian, Cyclopean, Roman, Saxon, or Norman masonry in some of our early churches. The question is still an open one.

   The military buildings of Trim next claim our attention.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 58

   As the companion tells it

   Trim in Meath once had a nunnery and a church known as Giwcorum Ecclesia, the Greek church. People supposed it was evidence that a Grecian people settled in Ireland. Sir James Ware confessed that there remain some small traces of the ancient Grecians having been in this country, in that very church. But the only foundation for the supposition is the name itself. It may as likely have been given for some peculiarity in the doctrines or form of worship of those who frequented it, or from a similarity in its architecture to the Grecian or Pelasgic type, just as we speak of Grecian, Cyclopean, Roman, Saxon, or Norman masonry in early churches. The question is still an open one.

7. Navan (Nuachongbhail) utterly plundered by O'Neills and O'Donnells, 1539

   Navan · town · Meath · 1539

   In 1539, the O'Neills and O'Donnells plundered Meath as far as Tara, taking immense spoils of gold, silver, and goods. The town of Nuachongbhail, the ancient name of Navan, was utterly plundered on this expedition.

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   The original name of Navan was Nuachongbhail. The Annals of the Four Masters afford us an account of a great plundering of Meath, as far as Tara, by the O'Neills and O'Donnells, in the year 1539*. " They obtained immense and innumerable spoils on this expedition, for the Irish had not in latter times assembled to oppose the English army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this plundering army; for many were spoils of gold and silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods and valuables, besides what they took from the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail, which they utterly plundered on that expedition."* When Lord Justice Leonard heard of this, he collected all the English forces in Ireland, and pursuing the invaders came up with them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued, in which the Irish were completly routed."}"

   A branch of the Dublin and Drogheda Railway has lately been extended to this place ; it crosses the Boyne upon a series of arches immediately below Athlumney Castle, and in the

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 84

   As the companion tells it

   Navan was once called Nuachongbhail. In 1539, the Annals of the Four Masters record that the O'Neills and O'Donnells plundered Meath, reaching as far as Tara. The annals say they obtained immense and innumerable spoils on this expedition, for the Irish had not in latter times assembled to oppose the English army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this plundering army. There were many spoils of gold and silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods and valuables, besides what they took from the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail, which they utterly plundered on that expedition. When Lord Justice Leonard heard of this, he collected all the English forces in Ireland and pursued the invaders. He came up with them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued, and the Irish were completely routed. The old name faded, and the town became Navan, but the annals still carry the story of that year.

8. St. Columb's penitential bed at Kells

   Kells · town · Meath · 550

   Inside the upper chamber of St. Columb's House at Kells lies a flat stone, six feet long and one foot thick, traditionally called St. Columb's penitential bed. The building itself is associated with St. Columb, who founded a monastery at Kells around 550 AD.

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   The following, by Dr. Petrie, is the most accurate: " This remarkable building is, in its ground plan, of a simple oblong form, measuring externally twenty-three feet nine inches in length, and twenty-one feet in breadth, and the walls are three feet ten inches in thickness. It is roofed with stone, and measures in height, from its base to the vertex of the gable, thirtyeight feet ; and as the height of the roof and width of the side walls are nearly equal, the gables form very nearly equilateral triangles. The lower part of the building is arched semicircularly with stone, and has at the east end a small semicircular-headed window, about fifteen feet from the ground ; and at the south side there is a second window with a triangular, or straight-lined head, about the same height from the ground, and measuring one foot nine inches in height. These windows splay considerably upon the inside. The present entrance doorway of this building, which is placed in the south wall, is obviously not original or ancient; and the original doorway, which is now built up, was placed in the west end, and at a height of eight feet from the ground. The apartment placed between the arched floor and the slanting roof is six feet in height, and appears to have been originally divided into three compartments of unequal size, of which the largest is lighted by a small aperture at the east end. In this chamber is a flat stone, six feet long and one foot thick, now called St. Columb's penitential bed."* The accompanying illustration shows the character of the angularheaded window just alluded to.

   When we last visited this house it was inhabited by a miserable, wretched family.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 89

   As the companion tells it

   Kells in Meath is a town bound to St. Columb, who founded a monastery here around 550. Inside St. Columb's House, up in the upper chamber, lies a flat stone, 6 feet long and 1 foot thick, known as St. Columb's penitential bed. Dr. Petrie gave the most accurate account of the building. It is a simple oblong in plan, measuring 23 feet 9 inches in length and 21 feet in breadth, with walls 3 feet 10 inches thick. It is roofed with stone and stands 38 feet from base to the vertex of the gable. The height of the roof and the width of the side walls are nearly equal, so the gables form very nearly equilateral triangles. The lower part is arched semicircularly with stone. At the east end there is a small semicircular-headed window about 15 feet from the ground. On the south side a second window with a triangular head sits at about the same height and measures 1 foot 9 inches. Both windows splay considerably on the inside. The present doorway in the south wall is plainly not original. The original doorway, now built up, stood in the west end at 8 feet from the ground. The apartment between the arched floor and the slanting roof is 6 feet high and appears to have been divided into three compartments of unequal size. The largest is lighted by a small aperture at the east end. It is in this chamber that the penitential bed rests. When the book's author last visited the house, it was inhabited by a miserable, wretched family.

9. Baptism of St. Finian near Roscor

   Roscor · townland · Tyrone

   According to tradition, the infant Finian was sent to the Church of Roscor to be baptized by Bishop Fortkern, but the priest St. Abban met the women carrying him on the way and baptized him at a place where two rivers unite. This tradition is interpreted as evidence that early Irish Christians practiced immersion baptism.

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   Dr. Lanigan writes, — his parents were Christians, " and sent him towards the Church of Roscor, to be there baptized by Bishop Fortkern. The women who were carrying him were, it is said, met on the way by the priest, St. Abban, who, having inquired whither they were going, and what was their errand, undertook to baptize him, which he did at a place where two rivers unite into one." From this and other passages bearing a like interpretation, we are inclined to think the early Irish Christians employed immersion as their mode of baptism, and some of our very oldest fonts, particularly one still remaining in the churchyard of Tallaght, in the county of Dublin, would appear to have been constructed for that purpose.

   At a later period the abbey was dedicated to St. Peter, but what the original buildings were we can now but conjecture, probably a missionary chapel, a few monastic cells, and a cloictheach, or round tower. There was also a derthech, or penitentiary, the burning of which, in the eleventh century, has been recorded. We have constantly wondered that no trace of a round tower had been discovered in this sacred spot ; but we learn from the Annals of Clonmacnoise and the Four Masters, that the cloictheach, or steeple of Cluain Ioraird, fell to the ground in the year 1039. Archdall understands this to be the steeple of the church, and so indeed it was, though a separate building from it. For upwards of a thousand years the annals of Clonard have come down to us ;

   Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 43

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Roscor is where a tradition places the baptism of the infant Finian. Dr. Lanigan writes that his parents were Christians and sent him towards the Church of Roscor to be baptized by Bishop Fortkern. The women who were carrying him were met on the way by the priest, St. Abban, who asked them where they were going and what their errand was. He then undertook to baptize the child, which he did at a place where two rivers unite into one. From this and other passages bearing a similar interpretation, the author suggests that early Irish Christians employed immersion as their mode of baptism. Some of the oldest fonts still remaining, particularly one in the churchyard of Tallaght in the county of Dublin, appear to have been constructed for that purpose. At a later period the abbey was dedicated to St. Peter. What the original buildings were can now only be conjectured, probably a missionary chapel, a few monastic cells, and a cloictheach, or round tower. There was also a derthech, or penitentiary, the burning of which in the eleventh century has been recorded. The cloictheach, or steeple of Cluain Ioraird, fell to the ground in the year 1039, according to the Annals of Clonmacnoise and the Four Masters. Archdall understood this to be the steeple of the church, a separate building from it. For upwards of a thousand years the annals of Clonard have come down to us.

10. Globular-headed skull found in kistvaen near Dublin

    Dublin · city · Dublin

    A well-proportioned, globular-headed skull was discovered a few years before publication in a small stone chamber (kistvaen) in the neighbourhood of Dublin, representing the second race of ancient Irish people. The skull approaches the highest forms of the Indo-European variety of the Caucasian race.

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    We next come to the third form of burial, containing the relics of the second race of people ; for of the first, or those found in the pyramidal structures with the stone passages, we have not seen the remains, and therefore cannot speak as to their form. The vault in which the remains of this second race are generally found is usually beneath the surface, a kistvaen, or small stone chamber, roofed either with a single flag, or covered in with that form of arch resembling a bee-hive dome. There is no tumulus or heap of earth to mark the site of these sepulchres, several of which have been turned up with the plough. Within this small square vault the bones are generally placed in a regular manner, the small ones at the bottom, the long ones, as the legs and arms, at the top, and the whole is crowned with the skull. One of these was found a few years ago in the neighbourhood of Dublin; it is much better proportioned, higher, more globular, and in every respect approaches more to the highest forms of the Indo-European variety of the Caucasian race, than either of the foregoing. It is said, but, we believe, upon very questionable authority, that metallic weapons and instruments have been found in connexion with this foim of burial.

    That most beautiful cranium figured upon the next page was presented to us by our friend Mr. O'Donovan, and we fear not to assert that in symmetry and general development it comes up to some of the finest Grecian models, though the general capacity of the head is small ; but it may have belonged to a small race or a small individual. The small stone chamber in which this skull was found, five years ago, was situated in the outer circle or breast -work of a rath, within 150 yards of the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    Near Dublin, a skull was found a few years ago in a small stone chamber buried beneath the surface, the kind called a kistvaen. These chambers hold the remains of what the book calls the second race of people to inhabit ancient Ireland. The first race was buried in pyramidal structures with stone passages, but their remains were never seen by the writer, so nothing can be said of their form. The kistvaen is a small square vault, roofed with a single flagstone or covered with a beehive-shaped dome. There is no mound or heap of earth to mark where these graves lie, and several have been broken open by the plough. Inside, the bones are arranged in a regular manner, the small bones at the bottom, the long bones of the legs and arms at the top, and the whole crowned with the skull. The skull found in the neighbourhood of Dublin is better proportioned, higher, and more globular than others of its kind, approaching the highest forms of the Indo-European variety of the Caucasian race. It was presented by a friend, Mr. O'Donovan, and the writer says it matches some of the finest Grecian models in symmetry and development, though the capacity of the head is small. It may have belonged to a small race or a small individual. The small stone chamber where this skull lay was found five years before the book was written, situated in the outer circle of a rath. It was said, though on questionable authority, that metallic weapons and instruments have been found with this form of burial.

11. Kells as a site of plague, famine and destruction

    Kells · town · Meath · 806–1315

    The annals of Kells record nearly nine hundred years of repeated sieges, plunder, burning, and destruction, with its churches robbed and inhabitants butchered or carried off. Plague, pestilence and famine recur as the chief items in the town's records.

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    The Annals of Kells would fill a volume such as this ; we can here only allude to a few of the most remarkable historic events which occurred here. We already mentioned the erec - tion of the early ecclesiastical buildings at Kells by St. Columb. It is recorded that in 806 Cellah, Abbot of Iona, took refuge here from the Norwegians, and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. Numerous battles were fought, both within and on the plains around Kells, which sustained several sieges, and was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed ; its churches robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen; its abbots and monks murdered, and its soldiers and inhabitants either butchered or carried off as prisoners by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders, for upwards of nine hundred years. Plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death, form the chief items in the records of this ancient and most celebrated place. We read that Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to this abbey in 1108, and Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger Mortimer, and burned the towm of Kells in 1315; — and thus might we occupy an entire chapter.

    One of the most valuable pieces of antiquity connected with this place, and which has come down to modern times, is the celebrated Book of Kells, a most beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinity College.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 93

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Kells has a history that would fill a volume on its own. The annals record nearly nine hundred years of repeated destruction. St. Columb erected the early ecclesiastical buildings here. In 806 Cellah, Abbot of Iona, took refuge in Kells from the Norwegians and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. Numerous battles were fought within the town and on the plains around it. Kells sustained several sieges and was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed. Its churches were robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen. Its abbots and monks were murdered. Its soldiers and inhabitants were either butchered or carried off as prisoners, by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders. Plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death form the chief items in the records of this ancient and celebrated place. In 1108 Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to the abbey. In 1315 Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger Mortimer and burned the town of Kells. One treasure survived: the celebrated Book of Kells, a beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinity College.

12. Lost town and hermit's cell traditions at Hill of Carrick

    Carrick · townland · Offaly

    The Hill of Carrick bears traditions of being a place of note in very ancient times, with slight architectural remains on its summit possibly those of a hermit's cell. Local tradition holds that a considerable town once stood at the north-eastern base of the hill, where a vast limestone quarry now operates.

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    This hill, though not mentioned in history, that we have been able to discover, must, not only from its situation, but from the traditions in the neighbourhood, — the rock denominated the Witch's Stone, and some slight vestiges of architectural remains upon its summit (probably those of a hermit's cell), — have been a place of note in very ancient times, antecedent to the date of the ruins which at present exist upon it. It is said that a considerable town once stood at the base of its north-eastern side, where there is now a vast limestone quarry. The extensive woods of Ballindoolan stretch down from its summit towards the north, and upon the south-eastern brow of the hill adjoining, the more direct road to Edenderry, we find another group of ruins, the church and castle figured upon the opposite page.

    The hill of Carrick (the Rock), which very much resembles that of Carbury, and commands a similar extent and beauty of prospect, derives its name from a large block of trap rock, called " the Witch's Stone," which stands upon its northern brow, just over the great limestone quarry. It is evidently the same kind of stone as the large mass of trap which is to be found about ten miles off, near Philipstown, to the south-west of this hill; but whether it is a boulder, and was carried to this spot — which is in the general direction of the great current which appears to have transported the beds of limestone gravel throughout Leinster — by natural means; or was transported there by art for some sacred purpose in early Pagan times, as we know was frequently the case, it is difficult to say. Upon the lower Boyne, near the hill of Dowth, we meet masses of compact basalt, fully as large, which must have been transported there by artificial means. The legend is, that a witch cast this stone from the hill of Croghan, at some of our early saints, and that it alighted here. This is a favourite and widely spread legend in the north of Europe ; in Scotland we find it preserved

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrick, a hill stands that history does not mention, but whose traditions and remains suggest it was a place of note in very ancient times. On its summit, slight vestiges of architectural remains survive, probably those of a hermit's cell. The hill takes its name, Carrick, meaning the Rock, from a large block of trap stone called the Witch's Stone, which stands upon its northern brow, just over a great limestone quarry. That quarry now occupies the spot where, it is said, a considerable town once stood at the base of the hill's north-eastern side. The stone itself is the same kind of trap rock found about ten miles off, near Philipstown, to the south-west. Whether it arrived there as a boulder carried by natural means, or was transported by art for some sacred purpose in early Pagan times, is difficult to say. Similar masses of compact basalt appear on the lower Boyne, near the hill of Dowth, and those must have been moved by artificial means. The legend tells that a witch cast this stone from the hill of Croghan at some early saints, and that it alighted here. This is a favourite and widely spread legend in the north of Europe, and in Scotland the same tale is preserved. The hill resembles that of Carbury and commands a similar extent and beauty of prospect. The extensive woods of Ballindoolan stretch down from its summit towards the north, and upon its south-eastern brow, along the more direct road to Edenderry, another group of ruins stands: a church and a castle.

13. "Murder-holes" at Riverstown Castle

    Riverstown · townland · Meath

    Concealed flues or upright passages in the turrets of Riverstown Castle are popularly known among local people as "murder-holes," preserving a place-specific oral term for these architectural features common in ancient Irish castles.

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    Turning southward from Bellinter Bridge, as we begin to ascend the hill towards Tara, the castle of Riverstown, about a mile and a half from the Boyne's brink, will be found well worthy of inspection. This was one of the best built castles upon the Boyne ; and the remains which still exist, in the perfection of their masonry, and the sharpness and beauty of their lines, still bear witness to the fact. The ruins of this beautiful building show it to have been of the same type as most other castles of the Pale which we have examined, consisting of two portions, an ancient and a modern. The former is a massive square tower, entirely built of cut or hammered stone, with three square turrets at the corners, which batter very much toward the foundation, and at top rise several feet above the principal part of the building. The eastern turret was originally a pigeon-house, and that on the west side contained a spiral staircase which led to a parapet at top. These turrets were lighted by small square windows and loop-holes, and were, as well as the central tower, divided into four floors and an attic. In the wall of each of these turrets we find one of these chimney-like, concealed flues, or upright passages, common in some of the ancient castles, and popularly known among the people as " murder-holes." This part of the castle was inhabited within the last eighty years, and portions of the plaster still remain upon the interior of the walls. The more modern portion abutted against the western wall of the tower, and shows, by the two gable-grooves, which are still visible in the latter, that it was erected or re-edified at different periods; and this conjecture is further supported by the fact of the existence of a large stone-arched keep, still remaining on the north-western side. Portions of the wall of the bawn can still be traced in the surrounding farm-yard.

    By whom, or at what precise time, the original castle of Riverstown was built, we have no means of ascertaining, but

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stands Riverstown Castle, one of the best built castles upon the Boyne. The ruins still show the quality of the work, the masonry holding firm and the lines of the building still sharp and clean. It was the same type as most castles of the Pale, built in two portions, an ancient and a modern. The ancient part is a massive square tower, entirely built of cut or hammered stone, with three square turrets at the corners that batter very much toward the foundation and rise several feet above the main building at the top. The eastern turret was originally a pigeon-house. The one on the west side held a spiral staircase that led to a parapet at the top. These turrets were lighted by small square windows and loop-holes, and were divided, like the central tower, into four floors and an attic. This part of the castle was inhabited within the last 80 years, and portions of plaster still remain upon the interior walls. In the wall of each turret you find one of those chimney-like, concealed flues, or upright passages, common in some of the ancient castles, and popularly known among the people as murder-holes. The more modern portion abutted against the western wall of the tower, and two gable-grooves still visible in the latter show it was erected or re-edified at different periods. A large stone-arched keep still remains on the north-western side. Portions of the wall of the bawn can still be traced in the surrounding farm-yard. By whom, or at what precise time, the original castle of Riverstown was built, there is no means of ascertaining.

14. Rath Dubh and the site of the Tailltean fair

    Teltown · townland · Meath

    Tradition assigns the site of the ancient fair to a portion of the great rath on the northern side of the road at Teltown, about a quarter mile north-east of the great fort known as Rath Dubh. The surrounding forts were larger than any surviving at Tara.

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    The first notice which the Annals record of Tailtean (the name of which is still preserved in the modern Teltown) is, that in the year of the world 3370, in the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada, " The fair of Tailltean was established in commemoration and in remembrance of his foster-mother Tailte, the daughter of Maghmor, King of Spain, and the wife of Eochaidh, son of Ere, the last king of the Firbolgs."* This fair continued down to the time of Roderick O' Conor, the last monarch of Ireland, and was held annually upon the first of August, which month derives its name in the Irish language from this very circumstance, being still called Lugh-nasadh, or Lugh's fair, — the Lammas day, — to which several superstitious rites and ancient ceremonies still attach throughout the country generally. Upon these occasions various sports and pastimes, a description of Olympic Games, were celebrated, consisting of feats of strength and agility in wrestling, boxing, running, and suchlike manly sports, as well as horse races and chariot races. Besides these the people were entertained with shows and rude theatrical exhibitions. Among these latter are enumerated sham battles and also aquatic fights, which it is said were exhibited upon the artificial lakes, the sites of which are still pointed out. Tradition assigns the site of the fair to that portion of the great rath still existing upon the northern side of the road, and about a quarter of a mile to the north-east of the great fort, or Rath Dubh ; j" and here it is said the most remarkable of the Tel-

    * Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 93

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Teltown, tradition places the site of the ancient Tailltean fair on a portion of the great rath, north-east of the great fort called Rath Dubh. The Annals first record Tailtean in the year of the world 3370, in the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada. The words of the source say the fair was established "in commemoration and in remembrance of his foster-mother Tailte, the daughter of Maghmor, King of Spain, and the wife of Eochaidh, son of Ere, the last king of the Firbolgs." This fair continued down to the time of Roderick O'Conor, the last monarch of Ireland, and was held annually upon the first of August. That month takes its Irish name from the fair itself, being called Lugh-nasadh, or Lugh's fair, the Lammas day, to which several superstitious rites and ancient ceremonies still attach throughout the country. Upon these occasions various sports and pastimes were celebrated, a description of Olympic games, consisting of feats of strength and agility in wrestling, boxing, running, and suchlike manly sports, as well as horse races and chariot races. The people were also entertained with shows and rude theatrical exhibitions. Among these are enumerated sham battles and aquatic fights, which were exhibited upon artificial lakes, the sites of which are still pointed out. The surrounding forts were larger than any surviving at Tara.

15. Rath of Laoghaire: King Laoghaire buried standing at Tara

    Tara · parish · Meath

    On the southern slope of Tara Hill stands the Rath of Laoghaire, in which it is said that King Laoghaire was buried in a standing position. This burial tradition reflects ancient pagan royal customs associated with the site.

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    To the east of theForradh, immediately adjoining the road, is the Well of Neamhnach \Newnagli\, a beautiful spring, formerly shaded by a magnificent ash tree, the roots of which still stretch over it. The only two other object of general interest to the tourist here are, the Rath of Laoghaire, upon the slope of the hill towards the south, in which it is said King Laoghaire was buried in a standing position ; and about a quarter of a mile distant, in the same direction, among some trees crowning an adjoining elevation, the great fort called the Eath of Queen Meve, which is very well worth inspection.

    From the centre of the Forradh on the one side, and the King's Chair upon the other, we gain most extensive views of the great plains of Meath, extending along the Boyne from the towers of Trim to the wooded heights of Slane ; stretching over the course of the Blackwater to the regal hill of Tailtean, to Kells and to the mountains of Cavan ; and, towards the southeast, taking in the tower of Skreen and the ancient castle adjoining.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Tara, on the southern slope of the hill stands the Rath of Laoghaire. It is said that King Laoghaire was buried there in a standing position. The rath lies near the Forradh, close by the road, where the Well of Neamhnach once sat shaded by a great ash tree, its roots still stretching over the water. About a quarter of a mile in the same direction, among trees on a neighbouring height, stands the great fort called the Rath of Queen Meve, well worth inspection. From the centre of the Forradh and from the King's Chair, the great plains of Meath open out, following the Boyne from Trim to Slane, the Blackwater to the regal hill of Tailtean, to Kells and the mountains of Cavan, and south-east to the tower of Skreen and its ancient castle. All of it ancient royal ground, and Laoghaire's standing grave a remnant of pagan custom.

16. Remarkably neat cottages near Edenderry

    Edenderry · town · Offaly

    On the road from Edenderry toward Monasteroris, the author observes a suburb of small cottages with well-tended gardens displaying unusual cleanliness and thrift. He explicitly notes this degree of care and industry is 'quite unusual in Ireland,' implicitly contrasting it with typical Irish living conditions of the period.

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    Our next resting-place is Edenderry, "the height or brow of the oaks," about midway between which and Carbery we cross the river by a small bridge,* forming the boundary between Kildare and King's County, which we now enter. It is a neat, wellbuilt, and remarkably clean town, belonging to the Marquis of Downshire ; but possesses little worthy of inspection to the antiquarian tourist except the castle of the Blundells, the ancestors of its present noble possessor, which crowns its wooded height, and the remains of a silver-mine adjoining.f As we leave the town, on the road to Monasteroris, the next point of attraction, we pass through a suburb of small cottages, with well-tended gardens in front of them, characterised by a degree of care, neatness, cleanliness, and, above all, by an appearance of industry and thrift quite unusual in Ireland. These cot-

    the nearest railroad station to the Boyne's source, after passing the little village of Johnstown, Mylerstown castle can be seen about a mile to the right of the road to Carbery. It is worth inspection.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    Edenderry takes its name from the height or brow of the oaks. The town belongs to the Marquis of Downshire and is described as neat, well-built, and remarkably clean. A castle of the Blundells, the ancestors of its present noble possessor, crowns its wooded height, and the remains of a silver-mine adjoin it. But what catches the eye is on the road toward Monasteroris. As you leave the town, the road passes through a suburb of small cottages, each with a well-tended garden in front. These cottages are characterised by a degree of care, neatness, and cleanliness, and above all by an appearance of industry and thrift that the author calls, in his own words, "quite unusual in Ireland." He says it plainly, and lets the contrast speak for itself. No grand ruin here, no battlefield. Just small houses with gardens kept by hand, standing where the road leads on toward the next point of attraction.

17. Brú na Bóinne as the great royal cemetery

    near Brú na Bóinne · monument · Meath

    Brugh na Boinne was the most celebrated and extensive of all Irish cemeteries, described as an assemblage of mounds, caves, pillar-stones, and sepulchral monuments forming a great necropolis along the northern bank of the Boyne from Slane to Netterville. It served as the royal cemetery of the Kings of Tara.

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    There were several royal burial places in Ireland in early Pagan times, eight of which have been enumerated. In the Senchas-na-Relec, or the History of the Cemeteries, contained in the Leabhar na h-Uidhre, a work compiled at Clonmacnoise, in the twelfth century, we learn that among these chief cemeteries were Cruachan, now Rathcroghan, in the county of Roscommon, where there are still considerable remains ; Tailltean, Teamhair Erann, or Tara, and Oenach Colmain ; so from these it would appear that the monarchs were sometimes buried iti the immediate vicinity, or perhaps within the enclosure of their dwellings, like King Loeghaire, who was contemporary with St. Patrick, and who was interred in a standing position, with his weapons and war dress upon him, in the external rampart of the rath which bears his name at Tara, with his face turned southward, towards his enemies, the Leinstermen. But by far the most celebrated and extensive of all the Irish cemeteries was that denominated Brugh, or Brugh na Boinne, the Burgum Boinne, the fort or town of the Boyne, of which an account is given, not only in the work already alluded to, but in another Irish manuscript of great antiquity, the Dinrseanchus, a tract contained in the great Speckled Book of Ballymote; and to this place references continually occur in almost every ancient Irish manuscript. This was the great royal cemetery of the Kings of Tara ; and from an examination of the various authorities which describe it, as well as the monuments themselves which still exist, it is manifest that Brugh na Boinne was no other than the assemblage of mounds, caves, pillar-stones, and other sepulchral monuments, forming the great necropolis which extends along the left or northern bank of the river, from Slane to Netterville. " The nobles of

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 113

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Brú na Bóinne lies the most celebrated and extensive of all the old cemeteries of Ireland. In early Pagan times there were several royal burial places, eight of which have been counted. The Senchas-na-Relec, the History of the Cemeteries, is contained in the Leabhar na h-Uidhre, a work compiled at Clonmacnoise in the twelfth century. From it we learn that among the chief cemeteries were Cruachan, now Rathcroghan in the county of Roscommon, where considerable remains still stand; Tailltean; Teamhair Erann, or Tara; and Oenach Colmain. It appears the monarchs were sometimes buried in the immediate vicinity of their dwellings, or perhaps within the enclosure itself. King Loeghaire, who was contemporary with St. Patrick, was interred in a standing position, with his weapons and war dress upon him, in the external rampart of the rath that bears his name at Tara, his face turned southward towards his enemies, the Leinstermen. But Brugh na Boinne, the fort or town of the Boyne, surpassed them all. An account of it is given not only in the work already mentioned but in the Dinnseanchus, a tract contained in the Speckled Book of Ballymote, and references to it continually occur in almost every ancient Irish manuscript. This was the great royal cemetery of the Kings of Tara. From examination of the authorities and the monuments that still exist, it is manifest that Brugh na Boinne was no other than the assemblage of mounds, caves, pillar-stones, and other sepulchral monuments, forming the great necropolis which extends along the northern bank of the river, from Slane to Netterville.

18. Female recluse living atop the Maiden Tower

    near Mornington · town · Meath

    Not many years before publication, a poor half-witted female recluse took up residence on top of the Maiden Tower. Like the hermits of old, she was supplied with every necessity by the surrounding peasantry.

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    watch his return, — and mistaking it for the watch-tower of an enemy and an invader, instantly displayed the blood-red flag, whereon the disconsolate maiden precipitated herself from the top of the tower, and was dashed to atoms. Not many years ago a poor half-witted female recluse took up her abode on the top of the tower, and was, like the hermits of old, supplied with every necessary by the surrounding peasantry. It has been conjectured that the tower was erected during the reign of Elizabeth, and took its name from the Maiden Queen.

    INDEX

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 158

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through Mornington, in Meath. Not many years before the book was written, a poor half-witted female recluse took up her abode on top of the Maiden Tower here. Like the hermits of old, she was supplied with every necessary by the surrounding peasantry. The tower itself is thought to date from the reign of Elizabeth, and took its name from the Maiden Queen. The old story tells of a disconsolate maiden who watched from the top, saw a blood-red flag raised below, and threw herself from the tower, dashed to atoms.

19. Slane hill named after the entombed Slanius

    Slane · town · Meath

    According to Giraldus Cambrensis, Slanius—one of the five legendary brethren who partitioned Ireland—obtained the monarchy and was entombed at a hill in Meath, which took his name, Slane. This tradition links the placename of Slane to its ancient royal burial association.

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    Slanius, it is said, soon enlarged his dominions, so that he obtained the monarchy of Ireland. " This Slanius is entombed at a hill in Meeth, which of him is named Slane."

    In subsequent times, and up to the date of the English invasion, the five provinces were thus possessed : the O'Melaghlins ruled in Meath ; the O' Conors in Connaught ; the Mac Murroughs (afterwards called Cavanaghs) in Leinster; and the O'Briens in Thomond or Munster.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Slane takes its name from Slanius. He was one of five legendary brethren who partitioned Ireland. He enlarged his dominions and obtained the monarchy. The old account says, "This Slanius is entombed at a hill in Meeth, which of him is named Slane." In later times the O'Melaghlins ruled in Meath, the O'Conors in Connaught, the MacMurroughs, afterwards called Cavanaghs, in Leinster, and the O'Briens in Thomond or Munster.

20. Clonard ruins obliterated; three stones remain

    Clonard · town · Meath

    By the time of writing, not even a trace of the magnificence of Clonard's buildings remained, and their former situation could be made out only with difficulty. The village of Clonard stood on the Trim road, with a modern church and graveyard occupying the site of the ecclesiastical remains, but only three stones could be discovered of the vast range of buildings.

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    We have thus described Clonard from whatever research we have been able to devote to the subject ; but of all the magnificence of all these buildings not even a trace now remains. It is with difficulty their former situation can be made out. The Christians have, after numberless burnings, sackings, and plunderings, for upwards of a thousand years, at last succeeded in completely obliterating every vestige of these Christian edifices, the tombs and temples of their ancestors, while some pagan remains, erected centuries before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, attract our attention from the Boyne's banks, and point out the locality sought for. Here, upon the Trim road, the village of Clonard stands, and in connexion with it the modern church and graveyard. This latter, and the fields adjoining, were the site of the ecclesiastical remains, but it would appear from the ancient references that the monastical and scholastic buildings extended down towards the western bank of the river for some distance. Three stones are all that can at present be discovered of the vast range

    * Archdall's Monasticon ; also Gough's additions to Camden, and Seward's Topography, &c, &c.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    Clonard in Meath is a place where magnificence has been erased. Of all the buildings that once stood here, not even a trace now remains. Their former situation can be made out only with difficulty. After numberless burnings, sackings, and plunderings, over upwards of a thousand years, every vestige of these Christian edifices has been obliterated. The tombs and temples of the builders' ancestors are gone. Yet some pagan remains, erected centuries before Christianity came to Ireland, still draw attention from the Boyne's banks and mark the locality sought for. The village of Clonard stands on the Trim road, with a modern church and graveyard connected to it. The graveyard and the adjoining fields were the site of the ecclesiastical remains. Ancient references suggest the monastic and scholastic buildings stretched down toward the western bank of the river for some distance. Three stones are all that can now be discovered of the vast range.

21. Cross of Kells used as gallows in 1798

    Kells · town · Meath · 1798

    The inhabitants of Kells keenly remembered that the great cross formed part of the gallows from which several men were hanged during the 1798 rebellion. This grim association links the ancient monument to the violence of that period.

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    * There is a tradition current that the shaft of this cross was prostrate till placed upon its pedestal by Dean Swift. Another fact connected with this cross, still keenly remembered by the inhabitants of Kells, is, that it formed part of the gallows from which several men were hanged in 1798.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 92

    As the companion tells it

    Kells, in Meath, keeps a hard memory. The great cross here is tied to the violence of 1798. People in the town still knew, keenly, that this cross formed part of the gallows from which several men were hanged that year. There is also a tradition that Dean Swift set the shaft upright on its pedestal.

22. Firbolg and Tuatha De Danaan burial monuments on the Boyne

    near Brú na Bóinne · monument · Meath

    The passage describes Pagan cromlechs, stone chambers (kistvaens) containing rude earthen urns, incinerated bones, shell ornaments, and stone weapons associated with the Firbolg and Tuatha De Danaan peoples. Examples of these mounds, tumuli, raths, and military forts are found at Carbery, Clonard, Ardmulchan, Newgrange, Dowth, Knockminaune, and Brugh-na-Boinne.

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    the primaeval occupation of this island, and which is indelibly marked by the Pagan cromlech, the rude cell and altar, and the stone chamber or kistvaen with its surrounding mound, containing rude earthen urns, the incinerated bones, the shell ornaments, and stone weapons of our Firbolg and Tuatha De Danaan ancestors,* together with their circular raths and intrenched military forts, of which we have examples in the mounds and tumuli at Carbery, Clonard, Ardmulchan, Newgrange, Dowth, Knockminaune, and Brugh-na-Boinne. Here we may linger,

    " By the cromlech sloping downward,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Brú na Bóinne are burial monuments of the Firbolg and Tuatha De Danaan. The old marks are still there: Pagan cromlechs, rude cells and altars, and stone chambers called kistvaens, set within surrounding mounds. These chambers held rude earthen urns, incinerated bones, shell ornaments, and stone weapons. The same people left circular raths and entrenched military forts. Examples of their mounds and tumuli are found at Carbery, Clonard, Ardmulchan, Newgrange, Dowth, Knockminaune, and Brugh-na-Boyne. The old poet wrote of lingering by the cromlech sloping downward.

23. Giants' grave tumulus in Sligo with multiple interments

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    R. C. Walker examined tumuli in County Sligo, a celebrated locality for sepulchral remains of the Firbolgs. One large kist at the centre of a cairn contained six distinct human interments, some burned and some not, surrounded by bird bones and shells, with no weapons or ornaments found.

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    The Eev. Dr. Walsh has recorded an instance at Kilbride, in the county of Wicklow, where a stone coffin was discovered in a wild and solitary part of the mountain, and just large enough to contain a small urn, which was inverted over two small bones belonging to human fingers and toes, and no other part of the body 1 We are indebted to R. C. Walker, Esq., who has opened a great number of tombs in this country, for an account of a most interesting examination which he made of some tumuli in the county of Sligo, a celebrated locality for sepulchral remains, particularly those of the Firbolgs. Mr. Walker informs us that one kist or tomb, which contained the remains of a great number of skeletons, some evidently burned, and others exhibiting no trace of fire, occupied the centre of a large cairn. Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of this great kist when it is known that one of the stones which formed the side of it was sixteen feet in length, and about six feet in breadth. In this tomb were found six different human interments, which occupied the eastern and western ends, the centre part being unoccupied. The bones were not contained in urns, but were collected together into small heaps that rested upon the " freestone flag," which invariably formed the bottom or floor of the inner tomb. The large bones, such as the arms, legs, and thighs, covered the half-calcined remains of the smaller ones, and the skull surmounted the little pyramid thus formed. Eound the margin of this heap was collected a quantity of the bones of birds, and some of the lower mammalia, together with a number of small shells, principally the land Helix ; and each of these six interments was kept distinct, and surrounded by small freestone flags. No weapon or ornament of any kind was discovered in this tomb. Here, then, in this very remarkable tumuhis of the class denominated " giants' graves," we have remains of nearly every form of interment employed by the aborigines of this country.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 143

    As the companion tells it

    Sligo has long been celebrated for its sepulchral remains, particularly those of the Firbolgs. R. C. Walker, who had opened a great number of tombs in this country, examined some tumuli in the county and gave an account of what he found. One kist, or tomb, occupied the centre of a large cairn. It had held the remains of a great number of skeletons, some evidently burned, others showing no trace of fire. One of the stones forming the side of this great kist was sixteen feet in length and about six feet in breadth. Inside the tomb were six different human interments, placed at the eastern and western ends, with the centre part unoccupied. The bones were not contained in urns. They were gathered into small heaps resting on the freestone flag that invariably formed the floor of the inner tomb. The large bones, the arms, legs, and thighs, covered the half-calcined remains of the smaller ones, and the skull surmounted the little pyramid thus formed. Round the margin of each heap was collected a quantity of bird bones, and some of the lower mammalia, together with a number of small shells, principally the land Helix. Each of the six interments was kept distinct, surrounded by small freestone flags. No weapon or ornament of any kind was discovered in this tomb. This remarkable tumulus, of the class called giants' graves, held remains of nearly every form of interment employed by the aborigines of this country.

24. Riverstown Castle tower inhabited within living memory

    Riverstown · townland · Meath

    The ancient square tower of Riverstown Castle was still inhabited within the preceding eighty years, with surviving interior plaster attesting to its recent occupation as a dwelling.

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    Turning southward from Bellinter Bridge, as we begin to ascend the hill towards Tara, the castle of Riverstown, about a mile and a half from the Boyne's brink, will be found well worthy of inspection. This was one of the best built castles upon the Boyne ; and the remains which still exist, in the perfection of their masonry, and the sharpness and beauty of their lines, still bear witness to the fact. The ruins of this beautiful building show it to have been of the same type as most other castles of the Pale which we have examined, consisting of two portions, an ancient and a modern. The former is a massive square tower, entirely built of cut or hammered stone, with three square turrets at the corners, which batter very much toward the foundation, and at top rise several feet above the principal part of the building. The eastern turret was originally a pigeon-house, and that on the west side contained a spiral staircase which led to a parapet at top. These turrets were lighted by small square windows and loop-holes, and were, as well as the central tower, divided into four floors and an attic. In the wall of each of these turrets we find one of these chimney-like, concealed flues, or upright passages, common in some of the ancient castles, and popularly known among the people as " murder-holes." This part of the castle was inhabited within the last eighty years, and portions of the plaster still remain upon the interior of the walls. The more modern portion abutted against the western wall of the tower, and shows, by the two gable-grooves, which are still visible in the latter, that it was erected or re-edified at different periods; and this conjecture is further supported by the fact of the existence of a large stone-arched keep, still remaining on the north-western side. Portions of the wall of the bawn can still be traced in the surrounding farm-yard.

    By whom, or at what precise time, the original castle of Riverstown was built, we have no means of ascertaining, but

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Riverstown, there stands a castle that was one of the best built upon the Boyne. The masonry survives in remarkable condition, and the lines of the building remain sharp, still bearing witness to the quality of its construction. The castle had two parts, an ancient and a modern. The ancient part is a massive square tower, built entirely of cut or hammered stone, with three square turrets at the corners. These turrets batter very much toward the foundation, and at the top they rise several feet above the main body of the tower. The eastern turret was originally a pigeon-house. The western one contained a spiral staircase that led to a parapet at the top. The turrets were lighted by small square windows and loopholes, and both the turrets and the central tower were divided into four floors and an attic. In the wall of each turret there is one of those chimney-like concealed flues, upright passages common in ancient castles and popularly known among the people as murder-holes. What is most striking is that this tower was inhabited within the last 80 years. Portions of plaster still remain on the interior walls, evidence of its recent occupation as a dwelling. The more modern portion abutted against the western wall of the tower. Two gable-grooves still visible in that wall show it was built or rebuilt at different periods. A large stone-arched keep still stands on the north-western side, and portions of the bawn wall can still be traced in the surrounding farm-yard. By whom, or at what precise time, the original castle was built, there is no means of ascertaining.

25. Skulls and weapons of two races at the Ford of Kinnafad

    Kinnafad · townland · Kildare

    At the Ford of Kinnafad, skulls and skeletons of both the long-headed and globular-headed races, associated with the Firbolgs and Tuatha De Danaan, were discovered alongside their probable weapons. The find suggested that these two distinct early races coexisted in Ireland.

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    of a more globular form than those found in ancient Pagan tumuli, as if intermixture of races had modified the peculiarities of the crania, from the elongated to the true globular or Tuatha De Danaan. And again at the Ford of Kinnafad, we have shown at pp. 38-40, that the skulls and skeletons of both races, as well as the weapons which were probably employed by each, were discovered. The fragments of heads found in the great cairn at Dowth belonged to the long-headed race. Last month (July, 1849), four skeletons were found in the rocky cliffs above Redbay, near Cushendall, county of Antrim. Through the kindness of a friend we possess one of the skulls of these skeletons; it partakes of most of the characters of the long-headed race, but it is somewhat greater in capacity, and approaches the globular form more than those found in the ancient sepulchres of Pagan times. Now what adds particular interest to these human remains is, that a small stone celt or hatchet, and two bronze celts, were found along with them; these weapons enable us to form some conjecture of the probable age of the skulls, and also show that the bronze and stone weapons were used at the same time in this country : but that which fixes the date of the interment of these skeletons was the discovery of two small Saxon silver coins of the early part of the ninth century.*

    From the foregoing observations it is manifest not only that two separate races, the earliest characterized by very long heads, and who were probably the Firbolgs, or first colonizers, and the other by more globular and capacious skulls, and who, it would appear, were the Tuatha de Danaan, the conquerors of the former, existed in this country prior to the Christian era ; but that both races subsequently existed together, and probably amalgamated. Skulls exhibiting both characters may be observed among the present truly Irish inhabitants, but that the more we approach the south and west the more do the former predominate, both in the existing inhabitants, and in the crania found in ancient burial-places.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 146

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Kinnafad, at a ford, the skulls and skeletons of two distinct early races were discovered, along with what were probably the weapons each used. One race had very long heads and is thought to have been the Firbolgs, the first colonizers of Ireland. The other had more globular and capacious skulls and is believed to have been the Tuatha De Danaan, who conquered the former. The finds at this ford showed both races present in the same place. The book that records this argues that these two separate peoples existed in Ireland before the Christian era. What is striking is that they did not simply replace one another. Both races subsequently lived together and probably amalgamated over time. The writer notes that skulls showing both characters, long and round, can still be seen among truly Irish inhabitants today. He adds that the further south and west you go, the more the long-headed type predominates, both in living people and in the ancient crania found in old burial places. So what was uncovered at this ford was not just bones and weapons. It was evidence that Ireland's earliest peoples, the conquerors and the conquered, did not vanish but merged, and that their physical traces carried forward into the population that followed them.

26. St. Columbkill's handprint stone at Carrick

    Carrick · townland · Kildare

    Near the ruins on the hill of Carrick, the peasantry showed a large stone with indentations resembling a handprint, which they believed had been lifted by St. Columbkill. This was one of several superstitious traditions attached to the locality.

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    There are several traditions and some curious remnants of superstitious usages yet remaining attached to this locality. The peasantry used to show a large stone, with some indentations in it resembling the print of the hand, which they said was lifted by St. Columbkill. Not long ago, people were in the habit of carrying away from hence portions of the clay of a priest's grave, and using it as a cure for several diseases, a practice formerly in much repute, particularly in the west of Ireland.*

    A few hundred yards below the ruins on the hill of Carrick, in the angle formed by the junction of the roads leading to Edenderry and Carbery, we find the holy well of Tobercro, or Tober Crogh-neeve, the Well of the Holy Cross, a beautiful spring shaded with flowering briars and wild white roses. Although it is now totally neglected, and its site scarcely known even by the neighbouring peasantry, it was once highly venerated, and its virtues greatly esteemed. The water runs into the Boyne through the adjacent valley. See page 53.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Carrick, the people used to show a large stone with indentations in it resembling the print of a hand, which they said was lifted by St. Columbkill. Several traditions and curious remnants of superstitious usages remained attached to this locality. Not long ago, people were in the habit of carrying away portions of the clay from a priest's grave near the ruins on the hill of Carrick, and using it as a cure for several diseases. The practice was formerly in much repute, particularly in the west of Ireland. A few hundred yards below those ruins, in the angle formed by the junction of the roads leading to Edenderry and Carbery, there is the holy well of Tobercro, or Tober Crogh-neeve, the Well of the Holy Cross, a beautiful spring shaded with flowering briars and wild white roses. Although it is now totally neglected, and its site scarcely known even by the neighbouring peasantry, it was once highly venerated, and its virtues greatly esteemed. Its water runs into the Boyne through the adjacent valley.

27. St. Patrick's Breastplate prayer invoking protection at Tara

    near Tara · hill or hills · Meath

    A traditional prayer invokes the mighty power of the Trinity at Temur (Tara), placing protection against the incantations of false prophets, the black laws of Gentilism, the spells of women, smiths, and Druids, and every knowledge which blinds the soul of man. The prayer calls upon Christ's presence in every direction and circumstance.

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    " I place all these powers between me and every evil unmerciful power directed against my soul and my body, as a protection against the incantations of false prophets, against the black laws of Gentilism, against the false laws of heresy, against the treachery of idolatry, against the spells of women, smiths, and Druids, against every knowledge which blinds the soul of man. May Christ to-day protect me against poison, against burning, against drowning, against wounding, Tintil I deserve much reward.

    " Christ be with me, Christ before me, Christ after me, Christ in me, Christ under me, Christ over me, Christ at my right, Christ at my left, Christ at this side, Christ at that side, Christ at my back.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Tara is a hill in Meath, and an old prayer called Saint Patrick's Breastplate invokes the mighty power of the Trinity for protection at Temur. The prayer places all powers between the speaker and every evil unmerciful power directed against soul and body. It seeks protection against the incantations of false prophets, the black laws of Gentilism, the false laws of heresy, the treachery of idolatry, the spells of women, smiths, and Druids, and every knowledge which blinds the soul of man. The prayer asks Christ to protect against poison, burning, drowning, and wounding. It calls Christ to be with, before, after, in, under, and over, at right and left, at this side and that side, at the back.

28. Three darkest caves of Ireland tradition

    Slane · town · Meath

    An ancient manuscript called the 'Irish Triads' enumerates the three darkest caves of Ireland as the cave of Croghan, the cave or crypt of Slane (Uaimh Slaine), and the cave of Dunmore near Kilkenny. The author wonders whether Newgrange might be the cave of Slane.

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    * Where these graves are has not yet been determined ; perhaps they formed part of the great neighbouring cemetery of Brugh-na-Boinne, for in an ancient MS. in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, called " Irish Triads," enumerating three of each of the most remarkable objects in Erin, — as the three mountains, the three cataracts, the three plains, and the three rivers, — it is stated that the three darkest caves of Ireland are Uaimh Cruachna, i. e. the cave of Croghan ; Uaimh Slaine, i. e. the cave or crypt of Slane ; and Dearc Fearna, i. e. the cave of Dunmore, near Kilkenny. See also the Annals of the Four Masters, A. D. 928, and the Dublin Penny Journal, vol. i. p. 73. Can New Grange be the cave of Slane ?

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 111

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Slane holds a place in an old list of Ireland's darkest places. An ancient manuscript in Trinity College Dublin, called the Irish Triads, enumerates three of the most remarkable objects in Ireland — its mountains, its cataracts, its plains, its rivers. Among them it names the three darkest caves: the cave of Croghan, the cave or crypt of Slane, and the cave of Dunmore near Kilkenny. The Irish name for Slane's cave is Uaimh Slaine. Where these graves are has not been determined. Perhaps they formed part of the great neighbouring cemetery of Brugh na Boyne. The passage wonders whether Newgrange might be the cave of Slane.

29. Clay from priest's grave used as cure at Carrick

    Carrick · townland · Kildare

    People formerly carried away portions of clay from a priest's grave near the ruins at Carrick, using it as a cure for several diseases. The practice was once particularly noted in the west of Ireland and was still resorted to at the time of writing.

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    There are several traditions and some curious remnants of superstitious usages yet remaining attached to this locality. The peasantry used to show a large stone, with some indentations in it resembling the print of the hand, which they said was lifted by St. Columbkill. Not long ago, people were in the habit of carrying away from hence portions of the clay of a priest's grave, and using it as a cure for several diseases, a practice formerly in much repute, particularly in the west of Ireland.*

    A few hundred yards below the ruins on the hill of Carrick, in the angle formed by the junction of the roads leading to Edenderry and Carbery, we find the holy well of Tobercro, or Tober Crogh-neeve, the Well of the Holy Cross, a beautiful spring shaded with flowering briars and wild white roses. Although it is now totally neglected, and its site scarcely known even by the neighbouring peasantry, it was once highly venerated, and its virtues greatly esteemed. The water runs into the Boyne through the adjacent valley. See page 53.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Carrick, there are traditions and remnants of old superstitious usages still attached to this place. The peasantry used to show a large stone with indentations resembling the print of a hand, which they said was lifted by St. Columbkill. Not long ago, people were in the habit of carrying away portions of the clay from a priest's grave, and using it as a cure for several diseases. This practice was formerly in much repute, particularly in the west of Ireland, and was still resorted to at the time of writing. A few hundred yards below the ruins on the hill of Carrick, in the angle formed by the junction of the roads leading to Edenderry and Carbery, there is the holy well of Tobercro, the Well of the Holy Cross, a spring shaded with flowering briars and wild white roses. It is now totally neglected, its site scarcely known even by the neighbouring peasantry, though it was once highly venerated and its virtues greatly esteemed. The water runs into the Boyne through the adjacent valley.

30. Clearance system depopulates County Meath

    Meath · county · Meath

    The long-standing "clearance system" in Meath created extensive pasture lands but reduced the population proportionally below that of any other Irish county. In several parts, the labour supply became unequal to demand.

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    The early population of Meath must have been very great ; but, owing to the "clearance system" which has long existed in this county, and produced those extensive pasture lands to which we have alluded, it is now much less, in proportion to its cultivateable land, than that of any county in Ireland, and, therefore, in several parts of it, the amount of labour is unequal to the demand. The peasantry are handsome, well made, stout, and healthy, but more serious and taciturn than those in

    * See an account of these remains by the Author of this book, in the Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy, vol. i. p. 420 ; and in Mr. and Mrs. Hall's Ireland, where the heads of these cattle are figured, vol. ii. p. 393.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through Meath, where an old clearance system reshaped the land and its people. What were once crowded grounds became extensive pasture lands. The system ran for so long that Meath's population fell below that of every other county in Ireland, measured against its cultivatable land. In several parts of the county, there were not enough labourers for the work. Those who remained were described as handsome, well made, stout, and healthy, but more serious and taciturn than those elsewhere.

31. Clonmacnoise graveyard destruction of ancient tombstones

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly

    The author cites the graveyard of Clonmacnoise as a true and lamentable instance of the destruction of ancient tombstones, many of which contained valuable Irish inscriptions that have been removed, defaced, or broken.

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    Much of the adjoining ground is still used as a graveyard, and we regret to see throughout several fragments of the ancient sculpture used as head- stones by the people. This destruction, which has proceeded for so many years in all similar localities in the country, has in no small degree conduced to the dilapidation of several of our finest monasteries. Scarcely a day passes but several of the carved stones, and portions of doors and windows, are rudely torn from their situations, to be placed as head-stones ; and some means, though late, should even now be taken to rescue these remains from further demolition. Even the ancient tombstones, many of which contained valuable Irish inscriptions, have been removed, defaced, or broken.* The graveyard of Clonmacnoise affords a true and lamentable intance of what we assert; and many of the jambs and window-sills to the wretched cabins in the village of Cong, in the county of Mayo, are formed of portions of the beautifully carved pillars and cut stones of the neighbouring abbey.

    Archdall, on the authority of King, relates the history of a desperate murder committed at Newtown in 1307, when several of the friars, rebelling against the prior, killed two or three of their brethren, who endeavoured to oppose their entrance to the cellar. A synod was held here in 1216; and in 1486 one of its priors, Thomas Scurlock, was made Treasurer of Ireland. In

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies the graveyard of Clonmacnoise, which the author calls a true and lamentable instance of the destruction of ancient tombstones. Much of the adjoining ground is still used as a graveyard. Throughout it, several fragments of ancient sculpture have been used as headstones by the people. This destruction has proceeded for many years in similar localities across the country, and has contributed in no small degree to the dilapidation of several of the finest monasteries. Scarcely a day passes but carved stones, and portions of doors and windows, are rudely torn from their situations to be placed as headstones. Some means, though late, should even now be taken to rescue these remains from further demolition. Even the ancient tombstones, many of which contained valuable Irish inscriptions, have been removed, defaced, or broken. At the village of Cong in Mayo, the same thing has happened: the jambs and window-sills of wretched cabins there are formed of portions of the beautifully carved pillars and cut stones of the neighbouring abbey.

32. Enumerated monuments of Brú na Bóinne

    near Brú na Bóinne · monument · Meath

    Ancient manuscripts enumerate specific monuments at Brugh, including the bed of the Dagda, the two paps of the Morrigan, the grave of Boinn wife of Nechtan, and numerous other named sepulchral sites associated with Tuatha De Danaan figures and early Irish royalty. These monuments define the character of the pagan cemetery.

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    the Tuatha De Danaan were used to bury at Brugh (i. e. the Dagda, with his three sons, also Lughaidh, and Oe, and Ollam, and Ogma, and Etan, the poetess, and Corpre, the son of Etan), and Cremthann followed them, because his wife, Nar, was of the Tuatha Dea, and it was she solicited that he should keep Brugh as a burial-place for himself and his descendants, and this was the cause they did not bury at Cruachan."* The La~ genians (Leinstermen) of the race of Cathair, were buried at Oenach Ailbhe; the Clann Dedad, at Tara; the men of Munster at Oenach Culi and Colmain; and the Connaughtmen at the Eelec na Eiogh, at Eathcroghan. The monuments at Brugh are enumerated as " The bed of the Dagda first; the two paps of the Morrigan, at the place where Cermud Milbhel, son of the Dagda, was born ; the grave of Boinn, the wife of Nech-

    tan; the mound of Tresc; the grave of Esclam, the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 114

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Brú na Bóinne, old manuscripts enumerate the monuments of a pagan cemetery. The Tuatha De Danaan buried here: the Dagda, with his three sons, also Lughaidh, and Oe, and Ollam, and Ogma, and Etan the poetess, and Corpre the son of Etan. Cremthann followed them, because his wife Nar was of the Tuatha Dea. It was she who asked that he keep Brugh as a burial-place for himself and his descendants, and that is why they did not bury at Cruachan. The Laigin of the race of Cathair were buried at Oenach Ailbhe. The Clann Dedad at Tara. The men of Munster at Oenach Culi and Colmain. The Connaughtmen at the Eelec na Eiogh, at Eathcroghan. The monuments at Brugh are enumerated in order. The bed of the Dagda first. The two paps of the Morrigan, at the place where Cermud Milbbel, son of the Dagda, was born. The grave of Boinn, the wife of Nechtan. The mound of Tresc. The grave of Esclam.

33. Tea-mur: the Milesian queen Tea from whom Tara takes its name

    Tara · parish · Meath

    Between the House of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh at Tara existed the ruins of Tea-mur, from which Temur, or Tara, derives its name, in memory of a Milesian queen called Tea. This etymological tradition links the site's name to early Milesian mythology.

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    Between the house of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh existed, it is supposed, the ruins of Tea-mur, from which Temur, or Tara, takes its name, in memory of a Milesian queen called Tea. In the centre of the internal mound of the Forradh stands an upright stele or circular pillar-stone, which was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hostages, but was removed to this spot in the year 1798, and erected as a headstone to the grave of thirty-seven of the insurgents, who were killed in a skirmish with the military in this neighbourhood. Dr. Petrie supposes this stone to be the celebrated Lia Fail, on which the early Irish kings were crowned, and which has been generally believed to have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of Fergus Mac Eark, and afterwards removed by Edward I. from Scone to Westminster Abbey. The Lia Fail was the stone so famed in ancient history, which was said to have roared beneath the Irish kings at the time of their in-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    Through the parish of Tara the road passes a place whose name carries an old story. Between the House of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh stood the ruins of Tea-mur, from which the name Temur, or Tara, comes, in memory of a Milesian queen called Tea. At the centre of the internal mound of the Forradh stands an upright pillar-stone. It once sat on top of the Mound of the Hostages, but was moved to this spot in 1798 and set up as a headstone for 37 insurgents killed in a skirmish with the military nearby. Dr. Petrie believed this stone to be the Lia Fail, on which early Irish kings were crowned. That stone was said to roar beneath the kings at their crowning. It was believed to have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of Fergus Mac Eark. Afterwards it was removed by Edward I from Scone to Westminster Abbey.

34. 150-200 cinerary urns discovered at Hill of Rath

    Hill of Rath · townland · Louth · 1842

    In June 1842, Mr. J. Huband Smith reported to the Royal Irish Academy the discovery of 150 to 200 cinerary urns at the Hill of Rath, near Drogheda. The urns, made of unbaked clay and placed inverted over human bones, were found embedded in yellow clay without protective stones during quarrying.

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    from 150 to 200 urns of unbaked clay, of various sizes, almost all placed in an inverted position, and each of them covering a considerable quantity of human bones. " They were placed, apparently without any regularity, about two or three feet asunder, and having been imbedded in yellow clay, without any flags or stones to protect them, had, in most cases, been pressed in and broken to pieces by the superincumbent earth." Some of the urns were very large. We have carefully examined the contents of one; they bear evident marks of fire, and consist of the bones of several individuals, as well as bones of birds, and a small animal of the dog kind. In another urn was found a flint arrow-head and a small bone needle.*

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Hill of Rath, in June 1842, between 150 and 200 cinerary urns were found during quarrying. Huband Smith reported the discovery to the Royal Irish Academy. The urns were made of unbaked clay, in various sizes, some large. Almost all were placed inverted, each covering a considerable quantity of human bones. They had been embedded in yellow clay with no flags or stones to protect them. In most cases the earth above had pressed them in and broken them to pieces. One urn was carefully examined. Its contents bore marks of fire and held the bones of several individuals, as well as bones of birds and a small animal of the dog kind. In another urn, a flint arrow-head and a small bone needle.

35. 1800 paupers in Edenderry Workhouse

    Edenderry · town · Offaly · 1849

    A footnote reports that 1,800 paupers were in the Edenderry Workhouse at the time of writing, despite the surrounding country being exceptionally fertile. The author attributes such widespread misery to a flawed system rather than any lack of natural abundance.

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    * While we write, we understand there are 1800 paupers in the Workhouse of Edenderry ! There must have been something wrong in the system which produced all this misery in the neighbourhood of such a fertile country.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    In 1849, there were 1800 paupers in the workhouse at Edenderry. The country all around was fertile land. The writer of the time could only say there must have been something wrong in the system that brought such misery to so rich a place.

36. Archdall's 1786 description of Clonard abbey ruins

    Clonard · town · Meath · 1786

    Archdall described the abbey entrance on the west side leading through a lodge into a court, with kitchen, cellar, dormitory, and refectory joining the choir, a large and elegant building whose windows were finished in a light Gothic style. A small double arch on the south side of the altar was supposed to be the founder's tomb.

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    over it, which led into a small court ; to the right of this court stands the kitchen and cellar, and over them the dormitory, ranging with the river, and overlooking the garden, which sloped from thence to the water's edge ; opposite the entrance was another small apartment, and adjoining it, the refectory, which was carried for some length beyond the square, and joined the choir, a large and elegant building, most part of which still remains, and the windows are finished in a light Gothic style. On the south side of the altar, fixed in the wall, is a small double arch, in the old Saxon manner, and divided by a pillar through which iron bars were fixed. This is supposed to have been the founder's tomb. There are many remains of walls adjoining the other parts of the abbey, but in so ruinous a state that little information can be gleaned from them. At a little distance from the east window, in the burial ground, stands a small chapel, in which is a table monument, ornamented with the effigies of a man and a woman, in a praying posture, and dressed in the ruff of Queen Elizabeth's time ; the sides are adorned with many coats of arms, — that of the family of Dillon is most conspicous."*

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Clonard holds the ruins of an abbey described in 1786. The entrance was on the west side, leading through a lodge into a small court. To the right of the court stood the kitchen and cellar, and above them the dormitory, which ranged with the river and overlooked a garden sloping to the water's edge. Opposite the entrance was another small apartment, and adjoining it the refectory, which ran beyond the square and joined the choir. The choir was a large and elegant building, most of which still remained, with windows finished in a light Gothic style. On the south side of the altar, fixed in the wall, was a small double arch in the old Saxon manner, divided by a pillar through which iron bars were fixed. This was supposed to have been the founder's tomb. Many remains of walls adjoined the other parts of the abbey, but in so ruinous a state that little could be gleaned from them. At a little distance from the east window, in the burial ground, stood a small chapel with a table monument ornamented with the effigies of a man and a woman in a praying posture, dressed in the ruff of Queen Elizabeth's time. The sides were adorned with coats of arms, that of the family of Dillon most conspicuous.

37. Dowdall's wayside cross at Baronstown

    Baronstown · townland · Meath

    A wayside monumental cross at Baronstown was erected by one of the Dowdalls, known as the great cross-builders of Meath. The cross features a figure of St. Patrick and an inscription praying for souls, though the head is now broken into scattered fragments.

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    trivial objects, still not so uninteresting as to be passed by without a peep into the one and a glance at the other, if only to assist us in making good the promise contained in our first chapter as to the multitude and variety of remains extending along the Boyne. These are Tober Padraig, a blessed well, dedicated to our patron saint, but now neglected and disused, and Barons town cross, a wayside monumental cross, the pillar or shaft of which, supported by a short pedestal or base, still stands on a small knoll near the road ; the head has been broken into fragments, several of which may be seen scattered around. This monument was erected by one of the Dowdalls, the great crossbuilders of Meath, of whose memorials of piety and affection two other examples of a similar description may be seen not far off, one in the town of Duleek, and the other at Annesbrook, in its neighbourhood. The shaft of this cross at Baronstown is four-sided, and on each face there is a rather rude and ill-spelled inscription. Upon the western face, beneath a figure of St. Patrick, we read,

    " I PRAY YOU, SAINT PATRICK, PRAY FOR THE SOULES OF

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 105

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around Baronstown, a wayside cross stands on a small knoll near the road. It was raised by one of the Dowdalls, the great cross-builders of Meath. The pillar or shaft, supported by a short pedestal or base, still stands, but the head has been broken into fragments, several of which may be seen scattered around. The shaft is four-sided, and on each face there is a rather rude and ill-spelled inscription. Upon the western face, beneath a figure of Saint Patrick, the words read, "I pray you, Saint Patrick, pray for the soules of." The Dowdalls left two other memorials of piety and affection of a similar description not far off, one in the town of Duleek and the other at Annesbrook, in its neighbourhood. Not far from the cross there was also a blessed well, Tober Padraig, dedicated to the patron saint, but now neglected and disused. These are among the multitude and variety of remains extending along the Boyne.

38. Sheelah Ny Giogs sculpture at Tara churchyard

    Tara · parish · Meath

    A pillar-stone in Tara churchyard, thought to be the shaft of St. Adamnan's cross, bears a small naked carved figure with horn-like features. This type of ancient sculpture is popularly known in some places as a Sheelah Ny Giogs.

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    f This small naked figure, with something like horns upon the head, is from its position evidently one of those curious pieces of ancient sculpture, popularly known in some places as Sheelah Ny Giogs, frequently found inserted into the walls of some early Christian buildings, and of which there are one or two specimens in the Museum of the Royal Irish Academy. There is one to fa . built into the side wall of the ruined Church at Dowth facing the Boyne. See the description of that building.

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    In the parish of Tara, in the churchyard, there stands a pillar-stone thought to be the shaft of St. Adamnan's cross. On it is a small naked carved figure, with something like horns upon the head. It is one of those curious pieces of ancient sculpture, popularly known in some places as a Sheelah Ny Giogs. Such figures are frequently found inserted into the walls of early Christian buildings. There is another built into the side wall of the ruined church at Dowth, facing the Boyne.

39. Wretched hovels around the Magdalen Steeple, Drogheda

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    The Magdalen Steeple, sole remnant of the Dominican friary on the northern side of Drogheda near Sunday's Gate, is surrounded by miserable hovels inhabited by the most wretched portion of the population. The author declares the adjoining locality stands more in need of a Sanitary Commission than any other place in the British dominions.

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    ately adjoining a series of arches pointed out as the remains of the town wall. It is now surrounded by the most miserable hovels, inhabited by the most wretched portion of the population, and not only is the adjoining locality a disgrace to the town, but the very site itself stands more in need of the efforts of a Sanitary Commission than any other place that we know of in the British dominions.

    As soon as the Corporation of Drogheda cleanse their city, we hope to conduct the Boyne tourists round some of its other memorable ruins.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 157

    As the companion tells it

    In Drogheda, the Magdalen Steeple, near Sunday's Gate, is the sole remnant of the Dominican friary, standing adjoining arches pointed out as the remains of the town wall. It is now surrounded by miserable hovels, inhabited by the most wretched portion of the population. The adjoining locality is a disgrace to the town, and the site stands more in need of a Sanitary Commission than any other place in the British dominions. Once the Corporation of Drogheda cleanse their city, the author hopes to conduct Boyne tourists round its other memorable ruins.

40. Ardee plundered alongside Navan in 1539 raid

    Ardee · town · Louth · 1539

    During a great plundering of Meath by the O'Neills and O'Donnells in 1539, the town of Ardee was utterly plundered along with Nuachongbhail (Navan), as recorded in the Annals of the Four Masters.

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    The original name of Navan was Nuachongbhail. The Annals of the Four Masters afford us an account of a great plundering of Meath, as far as Tara, by the O'Neills and O'Donnells, in the year 1539*. " They obtained immense and innumerable spoils on this expedition, for the Irish had not in latter times assembled to oppose the English army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this plundering army; for many were spoils of gold and silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods and valuables, besides what they took from the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail, which they utterly plundered on that expedition."* When Lord Justice Leonard heard of this, he collected all the English forces in Ireland, and pursuing the invaders came up with them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued, in which the Irish were completly routed."}"

    A branch of the Dublin and Drogheda Railway has lately been extended to this place ; it crosses the Boyne upon a series of arches immediately below Athlumney Castle, and in the

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 84

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Ardee shares an old wound with Navan, whose original name was Nuachongbhail. In 1539 the Annals of the Four Masters record a great plundering of Meath, carried out by the O'Neills and the O'Donnells, reaching as far as Tara. They obtained immense and innumerable spoils. The Annals say the Irish had not in latter times assembled to oppose the English army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this plundering army. There were many spoils of gold and silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods and valuables, besides what they took from the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail, which they utterly plundered on that expedition. When Lord Justice Leonard heard of this, he collected all the English forces in Ireland and pursued the invaders. He came up with them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued, and the Irish were completely routed.

41. Tradition of Dean Swift restoring the Cross of Kells

    Kells · town · Meath

    A local tradition holds that the shaft of the great Cross of Kells had lain prostrate until it was raised onto its pedestal by Dean Swift. The cross is one of the finest in Ireland, noted for its sculptured base with mounted figures in procession.

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    * There is a tradition current that the shaft of this cross was prostrate till placed upon its pedestal by Dean Swift. Another fact connected with this cross, still keenly remembered by the inhabitants of Kells, is, that it formed part of the gallows from which several men were hanged in 1798.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 92

    As the companion tells it

    Kells holds a tradition that the shaft of its great Cross lay prostrate until Dean Swift placed it upon its pedestal. The people of Kells also remember that the cross formed part of the gallows from which several men were hanged in 1798.

42. Clonard place-name etymology disputed

    Clonard · town · Meath

    The name Clonard (Cluain Ioraird) was translated by Ware and Vallancey as 'the Retirement on the Western Heights,' but the author disputes this since no heights exist locally. He argues 'Cluain' means a fertile plain surrounded by bog, and 'Ioraird' is a proper name.

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    The name of this celebrated spot, Clonard, or Cluain Ioraird, hasbeen translated by Ware, Vallancey, and other topographers, *' the Retirement on the Western Heights :" but this meaning is very questionable, for there are no heights, or even hills, in this locality, to which such could refer. Cluain, which is the general prefix to the names of our churches and bishops' sees, means a lawn, an insulated meadow, or level, fertile plain, surrounded by a bog or marsh; in fact a kind of oasis, as we know is the general appearance of such localities in Ireland; and Ioraird is a proper name: we have examples of this in Cluain Mac Nois, Cluain Coner, Cluain Dolcain, &c* Clonard was once the most distinguished bishop's see in Meath, perhaps it would not be exaggeration to say in the kingdom ; and its cathedral may be conjectured to have been one of the very first erected in Ireland, and was probably coeval with Clonmacnoise, and the original buildings at Armagh. It is well known to have been one of the most distinguished seats of learning of which the Irish historians can boast. Ware informs us that St. Finnian, Finen, or Finbar, who must have been one of the immediate successors of St. Patrick, was created first Bishop of Clonard in 520, " where he also opened a school, which, by his care and industry, produced many men of eminent sanctity and learning, among whom were the two Kierans, the two Brendans, the two Columbs (namely, Columb Kill, and Columb, the son of Crimthan), Laserian,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Clonard takes its name from Cluain Ioraird. Ware and Vallancey and other topographers translated that as the retirement on the western heights. But that meaning is hard to accept. There are no heights, not even hills, in this locality to which such a description could refer. Cluain, which appears as a prefix in the names of many churches and bishops' sees, means a lawn, an insulated meadow, or a level fertile plain surrounded by bog or marsh, a kind of oasis, as is common in Ireland. And Ioraird is a proper name, as in Cluain Mac Nois, Cluain Coner, Cluain Dolcain. Clonard was once the most distinguished bishop's see in Meath, and perhaps in the whole kingdom. Its cathedral may have been one of the very first erected in Ireland, probably coeval with Clonmacnoise and the original buildings at Armagh. It was one of the most distinguished seats of learning the Irish historians can boast of. Ware tells us that St. Finnian, also called Finen or Finbar, one of the immediate successors of St. Patrick, was created first Bishop of Clonard in 520, where he opened a school that by his care and industry produced many men of eminent sanctity and learning, among them the two Kierans, the two Brendans, the two Columbs, namely Columb Kill and Columb the son of Crimthan, and Laserian.

43. Colpe ancient church and burial of Milesius's brother

    Colp · parish · Meath

    Colpe is the site of an ancient church said to have been built over the spot where the brother of Milesius was buried, linking the place to legendary Milesian tradition.

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    southern bank is Mornington, one of the earliest seats of the Wellesleys, and Colpe, the site of an ancient church, built, it is said, over the spot where the brother of Milesius was buried. Upon this southern shore of the Boyne's mouth stands an ancient square tower about eighty feet high, which has always been known by the name of the Maiden Tower; and at a little

    distance from it inland is placed a small pillar of solid masonry, called The Finger. They are evidently landmarks, erected before light-houses were employed in this country. The tower, which is at least three hundred years old, may also have been originally used as a look-out station, for which purpose it is admirably adapted. There is a winding staircase in the centre, and the top, which is nagged, is reached by a small aperture, which could easily be covered with a large stone, so that it might, in case of siege, be rendered inaccessible from within. There are many " old stories" related about this tower, — tales of love, of maiden faith and knightly honour, and, in latter days, of mystery also. Tradition says it was erected by a fair lady, to watch the return of her betrothed from a far-distant country, whither he was obliged to journey upon the eve of their nuptials. It was agreed beforehand that, if the lover returned successful, he should hoist a milk-white banner ; but if the contrary, a red nag should float from his mast-head. The preconcerted signal was forgotten, and the knight, seeing the tower, — which his true love had erected during his absence to

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 158

    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Colp in Meath holds the site of an ancient church. It was built, the story goes, over the spot where the brother of Milesius was buried. Milesius is the legendary figure from whom the Gaels traced their descent, and to link this ground to his brother is to give it a place in one of the oldest traditions the country tells. Not far from this southern shore of the Boyne's mouth stands an ancient square tower about 80 feet high, always known as the Maiden Tower. A little distance inland from it is a small pillar of solid masonry called the Finger. They are evidently landmarks, erected before lighthouses were employed in this country. The tower, at least 300 years old, may also have served as a look-out station. There is a winding staircase in the centre, and the top is reached by a small aperture that could be covered with a large stone, making it inaccessible from within in case of siege. There are many old stories about this tower, tales of love, of maiden faith and knightly honour. Tradition says it was erected by a fair lady to watch the return of her betrothed from a far-distant country, whither he was obliged to journey upon the eve of their nuptials. It was agreed that if the lover returned successful, he should hoist a milk-white banner; but if the contrary, a red flag should float from his mast-head.

44. Drogheda Corporation's annual Boyne obelisk pilgrimage

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    The Corporation of Drogheda formerly made an anniversary visit to the obelisk commemorating the Battle of the Boyne on the first of July. There they drank a loyal toast from the waters of the Boyne and sang ballads about the battle at Oldbridge.

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    In years gone by the Corporation of Drogheda paid an anniversary visit to the obelisk erected to commemorate the first of July,* when they used to drink " the glorious, pious, and immortal memory" in the waters of the Boyne, and sing —

    " July the first, in Oldbridge town, There was" *****

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 153

    As the companion tells it

    Drogheda is the town. In years gone by, the Corporation of Drogheda made an anniversary visit to the obelisk raised to commemorate the first of July. There they drank "the glorious, pious, and immortal memory" in the waters of the Boyne, and sang of July the first in Oldbridge town.

45. Sheelah Ny Giogs sculpture at Dowth church

    Dowth · townland · Meath

    A ruined church at Dowth, facing the Boyne, has a Sheelah Ny Giogs sculpture built into its side wall. These curious pieces of ancient sculpture are frequently found inserted into early Christian buildings.

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    f This small naked figure, with something like horns upon the head, is from its position evidently one of those curious pieces of ancient sculpture, popularly known in some places as Sheelah Ny Giogs, frequently found inserted into the walls of some early Christian buildings, and of which there are one or two specimens in the Museum of the Royal Irish Academy. There is one to fa . built into the side wall of the ruined Church at Dowth facing the Boyne. See the description of that building.

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    Somewhere close to Dowth, there's a ruined church facing the Boyne, and built into its side wall is a small naked figure with something like horns upon the head. It's one of those curious pieces of ancient sculpture, popularly known in some places as Sheelah Ny Giogs. These are frequently found inserted into the walls of early Christian buildings. There are one or two specimens in the Museum of the Royal Irish Academy. This one sits in the stonework at Dowth, worn and old, part of the fabric of the place.

46. St Patrick raises the cross at Slane

    Slane · town · Meath

    According to tradition, Christianity entered Ireland through the Boyne when Patrick first landed at the river's mouth and raised the beacon of the cross at Slane. His first sermons and conversions took place along the banks of the Boyne in the region of Breg.

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    poets was drawn from this fertile source. Christianity entered Ireland through this sacred stream ; Patrick first landed at the Boyne's mouth, and raised the beacon of the cross at Slane; his first sermons were preached, and his first conversions took place

    " "Where, in delightful streams, The Boyne, the darling of the ocean, flows."*

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Slane is where tradition says Christianity first took hold in Ireland. Patrick landed at the mouth of the Boyne and raised the beacon of the cross here. His first sermons were preached along the river, and his first conversions took place on its banks.

47. Tradition of Grecian architects at Bective Abbey

    Bective · townland · Meath

    A tradition holds that a portion of Bective Abbey was built before the English invasion using Grecian architects, though the author could not find the authority for this claim. The abbey features a great tower with loop-holes and battlements.

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    The great tower at the entrance above the porch is still very perfect, and by its loop-holes and battlements shows that the inmates were, occasionally at least, entitled to be considered a part of the church militant. It has been said that a portion of this abbey was erected prior to the date of the English invasion, and that Grecian architects were employed in its construction, but upon what authority we have not been able to discover.

    The annals of Bective present us with nearly the same amount of history as those preserved of similar establishments of the same era along the Boyne and elsewhere; and their detail, though highly valuable in eking out the history of the country, would be uninteresting to the general reader ; charters, grants of lands, endowments, and forfeitures ; bulls of Popes, and letters of kings; excommunications and interdictions ; pillagings; disputes with neighbouring powers, rival ecclesiastical establishments, exacting chieftains, or rude military commanders; observances of festivals; solemn interments ; the preservation of relics, and the records of the accession and deaths of superiors, forming the great bulk of such materials.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Bective, there is a tradition that part of the abbey was built before the English invasion, and that Grecian architects were employed in its construction. The writer who recorded this admitted he could not discover upon what authority the claim rested. The great tower above the entrance porch still stands very perfect. Its loop-holes and battlements show that the inmates were, occasionally at least, entitled to be considered part of the church militant. The annals of Bective hold much the same sort of history as similar establishments of the same era along the Boyne and elsewhere. Charters and grants of lands, endowments and forfeitures, bulls of Popes and letters of kings, excommunications and interdictions, pillagings, disputes with neighbouring powers and rival ecclesiastical establishments, exacting chieftains or rude military commanders, observances of festivals, solemn interments, the preservation of relics, and the records of the accession and deaths of superiors, forming the great bulk of such materials.

48. Well of Neamhnach at Tara, shaded by a magnificent ash tree

    Tara · parish · Meath

    The Well of Neamhnach (Newnagh) is a beautiful spring to the east of the Forradh at Tara, formerly shaded by a magnificent ash tree whose roots still stretch over it. The site combines natural beauty with ancient significance.

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    To the east of theForradh, immediately adjoining the road, is the Well of Neamhnach \Newnagli\, a beautiful spring, formerly shaded by a magnificent ash tree, the roots of which still stretch over it. The only two other object of general interest to the tourist here are, the Rath of Laoghaire, upon the slope of the hill towards the south, in which it is said King Laoghaire was buried in a standing position ; and about a quarter of a mile distant, in the same direction, among some trees crowning an adjoining elevation, the great fort called the Eath of Queen Meve, which is very well worth inspection.

    From the centre of the Forradh on the one side, and the King's Chair upon the other, we gain most extensive views of the great plains of Meath, extending along the Boyne from the towers of Trim to the wooded heights of Slane ; stretching over the course of the Blackwater to the regal hill of Tailtean, to Kells and to the mountains of Cavan ; and, towards the southeast, taking in the tower of Skreen and the ancient castle adjoining.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Tara holds a beautiful spring called the Well of Neamhnach. It lies to the east of the Forradh, and once a magnificent ash tree stood over it, shading the water. The tree is gone now, but its roots still stretch across the well. Nearby, on the slope of the hill towards the south, is the Rath of Laoghaire, where it is said King Laoghaire was buried in a standing position. About a quarter of a mile in the same direction, among trees crowning an adjoining elevation, stands the great fort called the Rath of Queen Meve, well worth inspection. From the centre of the Forradh and from the King's Chair, the great plains of Meath open out. The view extends along the Boyne from the towers of Trim to the wooded heights of Slane, over the course of the Blackwater to the regal hill of Tailtean, to Kells and to the mountains of Cavan, and towards the southeast takes in the tower of Skreen and the ancient castle adjoining.

49. Drogheda's poor living conditions observed

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    The author characterises Drogheda as one of the dirtiest and most ill-ventilated towns in Ireland, while acknowledging its advantageous situation and abundance of ruins. This is an observed living-condition assessment of an Irish town in the 1840s.

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    Leaving the field of Oldbridge, and passing down the left bank of the river, we now approach the last remaining point of interest upon the Boyne, the ancient city of Drogheda; if, indeed, our readers can feel much interest in one of the dirtiest and most ill-ventilated towns in Ireland ; and yet, though we thus express ourselves, Drogheda possesses many objects that peculiarly attract attention. It is pleasingly as well as most advantageously situated ; abounds in ruins, and has been intimately associated with the history of this country for many centuries. Our excellent friend, John D' Alton, has lately written a History of Drogheda and its Environs, and to that work we must specially refer those among our readers who seek further information upon the subject than the limits of a guide-book can afford.

    The early Irish name of this place, to which we alluded at page 202, was Drochat-Atha (the Bridge of the Ford) ; and the grave of the. wife of Gobhan, the smith, one of those great sepulchral mounds which were rifled by the Danes in the ninth century, is the Mill-Mount on which the fortress of Drogheda now stands, on the right or southern bank of the river. In after times the name was anglicised Tredagh.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 155

    As the companion tells it

    Drogheda sits on the Boyne, an ancient city the road brings you near. A writer in the 1840s called it one of the dirtiest and most ill-ventilated towns in Ireland. He said it plainly, but he did not leave it there. Drogheda possesses many objects that peculiarly attract attention. It is pleasingly as well as most advantageously situated, and it abounds in ruins. It has been intimately associated with the history of this country for many centuries. The early Irish name of the place was Drochat-Atha, the Bridge of the Ford. The Mill-Mount, on which the fortress of Drogheda stands on the southern bank of the river, is a great sepulchral mound. It was the grave of the wife of Gobhan the smith. The Danes rifled that mound in the 9th century. In after times the name was anglicised Tredagh. A friend of the writer, John D'Alton, had lately written a History of Drogheda and its Environs, to which those who seek further information were referred.

50. St. Liadhan's church and friary at Killyon

    Killyon · townland · Meath

    In the demesne of Killyon, on the northern bank of the Boyne midway between Clonard and Trim, stand the ruins of an old church and friary founded by St. Liadhan, mother of St. Kieran of Saighir. She remains the patroness of the parish.

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    In the demesne of Killyon, on the northern bank of the river, about midway between Clonard and Trim, are the ruins of an old church and friary, originally founded by St. Liadhan or Liedania, the mother of St. Kieran of Saighir, who is still the patroness of this parish. From some of the Inquisitions and Burke's Hibernia Dominicana we learn that the Dominican monks of Trim retired to the Friary of Donore, as it is

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Killyon, on the northern bank of the Boyne about midway between Clonard and Trim, stand the ruins of an old church and friary. St. Liadhan founded it. She was the mother of St. Kieran of Saighir, and she remains the patroness of this parish. The Dominican monks of Trim retired to the Friary of Donore, as the Inquisitions and Burke's Hibernia Dominicana record.

51. Circular rath at Slane, legendary seat of King Slanius

    Slane · town · Meath

    On the western brow of the hill above the town of Slane stands a noble circular entrenched rath, traditionally believed to be the seat of the palace of the monarch from whom Slane derives its name. Slane was the early residence and burial-place of King Slanius.

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    Let us pass under the handsome gate of Slane demesne, through the neat little town adjoining, where, at its comfortable hotel, we may enjoy as bright and generous a glass of claret, and receive as good cheer, as at any similar establishment with which we are acquainted ; and then climb the hill which rises immediately over the town. On the western brow of the hill stands a noble circular, entrenched rath, possibly the seat of the palace of the monarch from whom its present name is derived. We are now upon the wooded height which so frequently caught our eye as we passed down the Boyne, and upon the spot so

    often referred to in the foregoing descriptions, — Slane, the early residence and the burial-place of King Slanius (see page 14). Ascending the hill, we stand beside a group of ruins, the remains of the church and monastery figured above.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 110

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Slane takes its name from a king. On the western brow of the hill above the town stands a noble circular entrenched rath, believed to be the seat of the palace of the monarch from whom Slane derives its name. This was the early residence and the burial-place of King Slanius. The hill rises immediately over the town. Climb it and you reach a wooded height that catches the eye from along the Boyne. At the top stand the ruins of a church and a monastery. The rath below, the ruins above, the town between them, all belong to one story, of a king who made this place his home and his grave.

52. Human skulls and antiquities found at Dunshaughlin

    Dunshaughlin · town · Meath · 900–999

    A collection of animal remains and antiquities found at Dunshaughlin included one perfect human skull and fragments of two others. The skulls were identified as belonging to the long-headed race, and associated antiquities suggested a tenth-century date.

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    To the skulls and human remains found in connexion with sepulchral monuments alone can we assign a positive date, and therefore it is that in the foregoing description we have confined our remarks to those found under such circumstances, and have figured them as typical forms. But we sometimes find human remains in connexion with certain antiquities which serve to fix their date, and sometimes upon battle-fields, the date of the actions of which has been recorded in history ; and the crania found under these circumstance have been partially preserved, and many of them we have had an opportunity of examining. In that great collection of animal remains and antiquities, found at Dunshaughlin some years ago, one perfect, and fragments of two other human skulls were discovered. They partake of the characters of the long-headed race, and the antiquities found in that collection would lead us to believe that the persons to whom those skulls belonged lived about the tenth century. And in the collection of bones and antiquities found in the vicinity of Navan, which we have described at page 135, and which must have belonged to a much later period, as we know by an examination of the antiquities, a skull which was there dug up evidently partakes of the character of the long-headed race, but it is

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 145

    As the companion tells it

    Dunshaughlin, the town you are passing through, holds a record of old bones and buried things. A great collection of animal remains and antiquities was found here some years ago. Among the bones were one perfect human skull, and fragments of two other human skulls. They carried the characters of the long-headed race. The antiquities found in that same collection would lead us to believe that the persons to whom those skulls belonged lived about the tenth century. Human remains on their own are hard to date. But when they are found in connexion with certain antiquities, those objects can serve to fix the date, and sometimes the remains lie upon battle-fields whose actions have been recorded in history. Under such circumstances the crania have been partially preserved, and many of them have been examined. The skulls from Dunshaughlin belong to this kind of find, where the accompanying antiquities give us a reason to say when these people walked the ground.

53. Patron day and festival of St. Kieran at Castlekeeran

    Castlekeeran · townland · Meath

    A Patron was formerly held at Castlekeeran, where O'Clery placed the festival day of St. Kieran on the 14th of June, the day of his death. Dean Butler noted that Castlekeeran was sometimes called 'Trystel Kieran' and that a church there was appropriated to the Priory of St. John the Baptist at Kells.

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    * See the Annals of the Four Masters at the years A. D. 770, 778, 855, 868, &c, with O'Donovan's notes thereon. These references are to volumes yet unpublished, and for permission to examine which we are deeply indebted to our friend George Smith, Esq. There was a Patron held here formerly. O'Clery places the festival day of St. Kieran on the 14th of June, the day of his death. Dean Butler, in his notes to John Dymmok's " Treatise on Ireland," published by the Archaeological Society, says Castle- Kieran is sometimes called " Trystel Kieran," and that " there was a church here appropriated to the Priory of St. John the Baptist at Kells."

    ST. kieran's well. 141

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a Patron was held formerly, a festival day for St. Kieran. O'Clery placed that day on the 14th of June, the day of his death. Dean Butler, in his notes to John Dymmok's Treatise on Ireland, published by the Archaeological Society, said Castlekeeran is sometimes called Trystel Kieran. He also noted that there was a church here appropriated to the Priory of St. John the Baptist at Kells.

54. Tara forts identified as Irish, not Danish

    Tara · parish · Meath · 1517

    The forts at Tara, where the kings of Ireland resided, are identified in a 1517 letter by Thady O'Roddy as Irish raths—entrenchments made by the Irish around their houses—rather than Danish constructions. The letter argues that all Irish kings and gentry had such raths about their dwellings.

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    " For the forts called the Danes forts, its a mere vulgar error. For these forts (called Raths) were entrenchments made by the Irish about their houses. For we never had any stone worke in Ireland till after St. Patricke's coming, a0 Christi 432, the 5th yeare of the reign of Laogary MacNeill. And then we began to build churches, &c, of stone. So that all our kings, gentry, &c, had such raths or forts about their houses, witnes Tara forts, where the khigs of Ireland lived, Rathcroghan in Connaught, etc."

    By " stone worke,'' Dr. Todd, the learned editor of this Tract, very justly remarks in a note, that the author must mean that "we had no buildings of

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    Through this parish of Tara lie forts once thought to be Danish. A letter from 1517, written by Thady O'Roddy, calls that a vulgar error. He says these forts, called raths, were entrenchments the Irish made about their houses. He argues that Ireland had no stonework until after Saint Patrick's coming, in the year 432, the fifth year of the reign of Laogary MacNeill. After that, churches of stone began to be built. So all Irish kings and gentry had such raths around their dwellings. He points to the forts at Tara, where the kings of Ireland lived, and to Rathcroghan in Connaught, as proof. The stone the author meant, Dr. Todd later noted, was buildings of stone, not rough loose stones.

55. Pattern held at Trinity Well, Carbury, on Trinity Sunday

    Carbury · townland · Kildare

    The Well of the Blessed Trinity at Carbury, where the Boyne rises, is famed for its medicinal virtues. A Pattern, or Patron, is still held there on Trinity Sunday, continuing an ongoing local tradition associated with the legendary well.

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    The well is famed for its medicinal virtues, and there is a Pattern, or Patron, still held there on Trinity Sunday.

    It is said that Bo was the original name of the river, and that where it meets the river Finnabhainn, of Sliabh-Guaire, —

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carbury is the Well of the Blessed Trinity, where the Boyne rises. The well is famed for its medicinal virtues. A Pattern, or Patron, is still held there on Trinity Sunday. It is said that Bo was the original name of the river, and where it meets the river Finnabhainn, of Sliabh-Guaire.

56. Ancient foot-bridge at Clady

    Clady · townland · Antrim

    An ancient stone foot-bridge near Clady church is about thirty yards long, five feet broad, supported by two arches of different shapes, and lacks a parapet. The author suggests it may be the most ancient stone bridge in Ireland if coeval with the church.

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    The adjoining stream is crossed by an ancient stone footbridge, about thirty yards in length, and supported by two arches of different shapes. It is about five feet in breadth, and does not appear to have ever had a parapet. It is one of the very few foot-bridges which we have ever seen or heard of in this country; and if it is coeval with the church to which it leads, and which in all probability it is, it cannot be denied that this is the most ancient stone bridge now existing in Ireland.

    i

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Clady, there is an ancient stone foot-bridge crossing the adjoining stream. It runs about 30 yards long and 5 feet broad, held up by two arches of different shapes, and it never seems to have had a parapet. It is one of the very few foot-bridges in this country. It leads to the church, and in all probability was built at the same time. If so, it may be the most ancient stone bridge now existing in Ireland.

57. Ancient immersion baptism font at Tallaght

    near Tallaght · town · Dublin

    A very old baptismal font still remaining in the churchyard of Tallaght, county Dublin, appears to have been constructed for immersion, supporting the tradition that early Irish Christians employed immersion as their mode of baptism.

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    Dr. Lanigan writes, — his parents were Christians, " and sent him towards the Church of Roscor, to be there baptized by Bishop Fortkern. The women who were carrying him were, it is said, met on the way by the priest, St. Abban, who, having inquired whither they were going, and what was their errand, undertook to baptize him, which he did at a place where two rivers unite into one." From this and other passages bearing a like interpretation, we are inclined to think the early Irish Christians employed immersion as their mode of baptism, and some of our very oldest fonts, particularly one still remaining in the churchyard of Tallaght, in the county of Dublin, would appear to have been constructed for that purpose.

    At a later period the abbey was dedicated to St. Peter, but what the original buildings were we can now but conjecture, probably a missionary chapel, a few monastic cells, and a cloictheach, or round tower. There was also a derthech, or penitentiary, the burning of which, in the eleventh century, has been recorded. We have constantly wondered that no trace of a round tower had been discovered in this sacred spot ; but we learn from the Annals of Clonmacnoise and the Four Masters, that the cloictheach, or steeple of Cluain Ioraird, fell to the ground in the year 1039. Archdall understands this to be the steeple of the church, and so indeed it was, though a separate building from it. For upwards of a thousand years the annals of Clonard have come down to us ;

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    In Tallaght, county Dublin, there stands in the churchyard a very old baptismal font, one of the oldest remaining, and it appears to have been constructed for immersion. Dr. Lanigan writes that the parents of a child, being Christians, sent him towards the Church of Roscor to be baptized by Bishop Fortkern. The women carrying him were met on the way by the priest St. Abban, who asked where they were going and what their errand was. He then undertook to baptize the child himself, which he did at a place where two rivers unite into one. From this and other passages bearing a like interpretation, the author concludes that the early Irish Christians employed immersion as their mode of baptism, and the font at Tallaght would appear to confirm it. At a later period the abbey was dedicated to St. Peter, but the original buildings can now only be conjectured: probably a missionary chapel, a few monastic cells, and a cloictheach, or round tower. There was also a derthech, or penitentiary, the burning of which in the eleventh century has been recorded. The Annals of Clonmacnoise and the Four Masters record that the cloictheach, or steeple of Cluain Ioraird, fell to the ground in the year 1039. Archdall understands this to be the steeple of the church, a separate building from it. For upwards of a thousand years the annals of Clonard have come down to us.

58. Filth surrounding St Mary's Abbey ruins in Drogheda

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    The ruins of St Mary's Abbey span a dirty lane used as a stable-yard behind the upper end of West Street in Drogheda. The author notes that the town's ecclesiastical ruins are generally scarcely approachable owing to the quantity of filth surrounding them.

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    From time immemorial Drogheda has been noted for its ecclesiastical establishments, and the ruins of several still remain ; but they are, generally speaking, scarcely approachable, owing to the quantity of filth by which they are surrounded. The most remarkable of these ecclesiastical ruins is that shown in the accompanying illustration, the Abbey or Church of St. Mary, which spans a dirty lane, now principally used as a stable-yard, behind the upper end of West-street.

    One of the most conspicuous objects in Drogheda is the Magdalen Steeple, figured on the next page, the only remnant of the church of the Dominican friary which once stood here. It occupies an elevated position upon the northern side of the city, near Sunday's Gate, and is immedi-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 156

    As the companion tells it

    Drogheda has long been noted for its ecclesiastical establishments, and the ruins of several still remain. They are, generally speaking, scarcely approachable, owing to the quantity of filth by which they are surrounded. The most remarkable of these ruins is the Abbey or Church of St Mary, which spans a dirty lane, now principally used as a stable-yard, behind the upper end of West Street. One of the most conspicuous objects in Drogheda is the Magdalen Steeple, the only remnant of the church of the Dominican friary which once stood here. It occupies an elevated position upon the northern side of the city, near Sunday's Gate.

59. Frequent and severe plagues in Meath

    Meath · county · Meath

    The Irish annals of the ecclesiastical establishments in Meath record various plagues, from which the county suffered frequently and severely.

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    A cloictheach, or round tower, formerly existed at Trim, the burning of which by Conor O'Melaghlin, in 1108, and by Conor Feargal O'Lochlinn, in 1127, is mentioned in several of the Irish Annals. Like Clonard, the ecclesiastical buildings at Trim suffered various conflagrations ; but neither our space, nor the character of this work, permit us to follow out the wellrecorded annals of this or the other abbeys and monastic remains along our track, — consisting of notices of the celebrated persons who flourished or were interred in them, poets, priests, and warriors, mail-clad barons and palmer knights, holy nuns and pious monks ; the various miracles wrought in these monasteries ; the plunderings, seizures, and dilapidations they sustained; the records of the privileges which they enjoyed, and the broad lands they occupied ; together with the offerings of the devotional, and the various plagues (from which Meath suffered so frequently and so severely) ; — which form the records of these establishments, — highly interesting, no doubt, in their way, but merely valuable to us for the epochs which they mark, and the historic facts which they attest.

    The Grey Friary of Observantines stood by the water's edge, near the site of the present court-house, but all trace of it has been long since completely effaced.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    Meath suffered from plagues frequently and severely, according to the Irish Annals of its ecclesiastical establishments. The records of the abbeys and monastic remains across this county hold a long catalogue of what befell them. They tell of celebrated persons who flourished or were buried in them, poets, priests, and warriors, mail-clad barons and palmer knights, holy nuns and pious monks. They record miracles wrought in the monasteries, and the plunderings, seizures, and dilapidations the buildings sustained. A round tower once stood at Trim. The annals mention its burning by Conor O'Melaghlin in 1108, and again by Conor Feargal O'Lochlinn in 1127. The ecclesiastical buildings at Trim suffered various conflagrations over the years. The Grey Friary of Observantines once stood by the water's edge, near the site of the present court-house, but all trace of it has been long since completely effaced. The annals of these establishments, the book tells us, are valuable for the epochs they mark and the historic facts they attest.

60. Navan described as ill-built town with workhouse and fever hospital

    Navan · town · Meath

    Navan is described as a dirty, ill-built, straggling town of about 5000 inhabitants, with its back turned to the river. Its modern erections include a church, chapel, infirmary, bridewell, workhouse, and fever hospital.

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    As we only engaged to present our readers with scenes of beauty or of interest, we cannot be expected to devote much of our space to a description of Navan ! — a dirty, ill-built, straggling collection of houses, boasting the honour of having been half 'a county-town. It contains, however, 5000 inha-

    * Tradition gives us another, but by no means so probable a story about Athluniney castle, -which refers to an earlier date. It is said that two sisters occupied the ancient castles of Athluniney and Blackcastle, -which latter -was situated on the opposite bank of the river ; and the heroine of the latter, jealous of her rival in Athluniney, took the following means of being revenged. She made her enter into an agreement, that to prevent their mansions falling into the hands of Cromwell and his soldiers, they should set fire to them at the same moment, as soon as the news of bis approach reached them, and that a fire being bghted upon one was to be the signal for the conflagration of the other. In the mean time the wily mistress of Blackcastle had a quantity of dry brush-wood placed on one of the towers of the castle, -which, upon a certain night, she lighted ; and the inhabitants of Athlumney perceiving the appointed signal, set fire to their mansion, and burned it to the ground. In the morning the deception was manifest. Athlumney was a mass of blackened, smoking ruins, while Blackcastle still reared its proud form above the woods, and still afforded shelter to its haughty mistress.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboyne00wild, Chapter 84

    As the companion tells it

    Navan is a town the road passes through, in Meath. The writer of the old book had little good to say of it. He called it a dirty, ill-built, straggling collection of houses, and said it boasted the honour of having been half a county-town. About 5000 people lived there. He noted that it turned its back to the river. Among its more modern buildings were a church, a chapel, an infirmary, a bridewell, a workhouse, and a fever hospital. He said he could not be expected to devote much space to describing it, since he had only engaged to present scenes of beauty or interest. Navan, it seems, offered him neither.