Name: The Beauties of the Boyne, and its Tributary, the Blackwater
Author: William R. (William Robert) Wilde (1815–1876)

Clonard school attracted 3000 students from across Europe

Clonard · town · Meath

Clonard became a renowned centre of learning, attracting students from Britain, Armorica and Germany, numbering about 3000 at its height, with Bede reportedly praising its instruction and hospitality.

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the son of Nathfracli, Cainec, Moveus, and Ruadan. And as St. Finiau's school was not ' improperly a sacred repository of all wisdom,' as the writer of his life tells us, so he himself got the surname of ' Finian the Wise.' "* To this ancient seat of learning resorted students, not only from all parts of the British isles, but also from Armorica and Germany; so that at one time it is said they numbered about 3000. The venerable Bede, it is said, bears testimony, not only to the instruction delivered at Clonard, but to its fame for hospitality towards the students of the many nations who resorted there; andCoIgan, Ussher, Sir James Ware, and the learned Dr. Lanigan, have collected materials, and inserted in their writings the life of this distinguished philosopher and divine, who was also one of the most celebrated commentators on the Holy Scriptures of his age. One of the hymns anciently sung at his festival begins thus:
" Kegressus in Clonardiam, Ad Cathedram Lecture, Apponit diligentiam Ad studium ScripturaB."f

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 42

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is the town of Clonard, in Meath. In early medieval times this was the site of St. Finian's school, a seat of learning that drew students not only from across the British Isles but from Armorica and Germany, numbering about 3000 at its height. Finian himself was called "Finian the Wise," and the Venerable Bede is said to have testified both to the quality of instruction and to the school's hospitality towards students of the many nations who came there. Later scholars including Ussher, Sir James Ware, and Dr. Lanigan collected materials on Finian's life, recording him as one of the most celebrated commentators on the Holy Scriptures of his age.

Cromwell's soldiers blamed for damage to the Great Cross

Monasterboice · townland · Louth · 1649–1650

A considerable portion of the lower shaft of the great cross at Monasterboice has been hammered away, which local tradition attributes to Cromwell's soldiers, described as the usual scapegoats for such desecration in Ireland.

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is eleven feet ; the central stone, consisting of the circle and arms, is six feet three inches ; and the cap at top, representing a shrine or church, with a high pitched roof, sharp ridge, and fish-tail terminations over the gables, is two feet three inches high.* The shaft is two feet broad, and fifteen inches thick, but a considerable portion of its lower part has been hammered away, tradition says, by the soldiers of Cromwell, the usual scape goats, in Ireland, for every description of desecration or dilapidation. The figures were carved in strong relief, though now much worn by time and the elements. The sculptures are divided into tablets orcompartments, each referring to some portion of sacred, or of early church history, or some of the circumstances connected with the monastery and the cross itself. As is usual in all such monuments, a representation of the Crucifixion occupies the centre of the principal side, which is always somcAvhat inclined, and which very frequently faces the west, that the rays of the setting sun might illumine the sculpture, and assist to brighten the story which these hieroglyphics (sacred representations) and pictorial writings taught the simple peasant that after his daily toil knelt at its base. In this instance the various compartments contain figures of the Apostles, the Virgin and Child, and some of our Irish saints and most ce-
* We lately measured this cross, by throwing a small stone, with a marked tape attached to it, over the ridge at top. For a person standing near its base to throw a stone over the round tower is considered one of the great feats of the rustics here. So is it at Glendalough, and wherever a round tower is to be found in Ireland.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 169

Death of Geoffrey de Geneville in the Black Friary, 1314

Trim · town · Meath · 1314

Geoffrey de Geneville, a distinguished statesman, Crusader, and confidant of Edward I, died on 19 October 1314 in the Black Friary at Trim which he had founded, having become a Dominican monk there.

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1273, he was appointed Lord Justice of Ireland; and in virtue of his wife, Maude, sister to Gilbert de Lacy, he became possessed of a large portion of the great Palatinate of Meath, After a most eventful history, he died on the 19th of October, 1314, in the Black Friary, which he had founded. Dean Butler, the historian of Trim, thus graphically alludes to this distinguished character: — "It is to be lamented that our notices of the varied life of this great man are so meagre that we cannot fill up the outline of the young noble of Champagne wooing his wealthy bride in the court of England, retiring Avith her to her great seignories in Ireland, and joining with her in founding a religious house; — ^joining in a crusade to the Holy Land ; administering for a short time the government of his adopted country ; busy for years in the councils and campaigns of the bold and politic Edward I. ; and closing his career by the resignation of his lordship of Meath to his youthful granddaughter and her ambitious husband, and ending his days in the habit of a Dominican, in the cloister which he and his wife had bviilt fifty years before. The following verses are quoted from I know not what monkish author, in the Britif^h Magazine, X. 670. The person to whom they relate had, like GeofFry, been a Crusader; and they give a beautiful picture of such a life as Geoffry de Geneville may have led in our Black Abbey:
" ' Ipse post militaj bursum temporalis, Illustratus gratia doni spiritualis, Esse Christi eupiens miles si)ecialis, In liac donio monachus factus est claustralis.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 55

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Trim, you are near the Black Friary, where Geoffrey de Geneville died on the 19th of October 1314. He had founded that friary himself, and by the end he had become a Dominican monk there. After a most eventful life, he closed his career in the cloister he and his wife had built. In 1273 he was appointed Lord Justice of Ireland. Through his wife Maude, sister to Gilbert de Lacy, he came into possession of a large portion of the great Palatinate of Meath. Dean Butler, the historian of Trim, lamented how meagre the notices are of this great man's varied life. The outline is all we have. A young noble of Champagne, wooing his wealthy bride in the court of England. Retiring with her to her great estates in Ireland. Joining with her in founding a religious house. Joining a crusade to the Holy Land. Administering for a short time the government of his adopted country. Busy for years in the councils and campaigns of the bold and politic Edward I. Then the resignation of his lordship of Meath to his youthful granddaughter and her ambitious husband. And ending his days in the habit of a Dominican, in the cloister which he and his wife had built fifty years before.

Dublin's alarm and rumours on the day of battle

Dublin · city · Dublin · 1690

An eyewitness Irish Journal describes Dublin waking to alarm on the morning of the battle, with Protestants keeping to their houses amid conflicting rumours, followed that night by streams of wounded and disordered soldiers entering the city.

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The "• Irish Journal" thus describes the state of Dublin upon the day of the battle. " Now as to us in this place, Ave were waken'd very early this Tuesday morning by an alarm, and the news that there would be a battel. The gates were kept strictly guarded, and the Protestants kept their houses. The issue we expected with the greatest apprehensions. Several reports were spread abroad every hoixr; one while that the French fleet was in our bay; another, that a French express was come from Waterford, with the news of taking the Isle of Wight by the French, and of their being gone to Dover ; then that the English right wing was quite routed; then, that the Prince of Orange was taken prisoner; but at five that afternoon, some that had made their escape on tired horses told us the Irish were much worsted; and others at six, that they were totally defeated ; from hence, till one that night, all the entries of the town were filled with dusty, wounded, and tired soldiers, and carriages perpetually coming in. We
• The " Boj-ne Water" has been a fruitful theme to the novelist, poet, and dramatist. Banim, author of " Talcs of the O'Hara Family," has given a description of the battle; but by far the most graphic and unprejudiced is that related in Miss Boyle's novel of " The Forester ;" London, Newman, 1842.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 154

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Dublin, you are in the city that woke in alarm on a Tuesday morning in 1690, the day of battle. An Irish Journal of the time records that the people were woken very early by the news that there would be a battle. The gates were strictly guarded, and the Protestants kept to their houses, waiting for the outcome with what the writer calls the greatest apprehensions. Rumours spread through the city every hour. One said the French fleet was in the bay. Another said a French express had come from Waterford with news that the French had taken the Isle of Wight and gone to Dover. Then came word that the English right wing was quite routed, and that the Prince of Orange was taken prisoner. At five that afternoon, men on spent horses who had escaped the field reported the Irish were much worsted. By six, others said they were totally defeated. From then until one that night, every entry into the town was filled with dusty, wounded, and tired soldiers, and carriages coming in without cease.

Establishment of the fair of Tailltean

Teltown · townland · Meath

According to the Annals of the Four Masters, the fair of Tailltean was established in the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada in commemoration of his foster-mother Tailte, continuing until the time of Roderick O'Conor.

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The first notice which the Annals record of Tailtean (the name of which is still preserved in the modern Teltown) is, that in the year of the world 3370, in the reign of Lugh Lamhfhada, " The fair of Tailltean was established in commemoration and in remembrance of his foster-mother Tailte, the daughter of Maghmor, King of Spain, and the wife of Eochaidh, son of Ere, the last king of the Firbolgs."* This fair continued doAvn to the time of Roderick O' Conor, the last monarch of Ireland, and was held annually upon the first of August, which month derives its name in the Irish language from this very circumstance, being still called Lugh-nasadlt, or Lugh's fair, — the Lammas day, — to which several superstitious rites and ancient ceremonies still attach throughout the country generally. Upon these occasions various sports and pastimes, a description of Olympic Games, were celebrated, consisting of feats of strength and agility in Avrestling, boxing, running, and suchlike manly sports, as well as horse races and chariot races. Besides these the people were entertained with shows and rude theatrical exhibitions. Among these latter are enumerated sham battles and also aquatic fights, Avhich it is said were exhibited upon the artificial lakes, the sites of which are still pointed out. Tradition assigns the site of the fair to that portion of the great rath still existing upon the northern side of the road, and about a quarter of a mile to the north-east of the great fort, or Rath Dubh ;f and here it is said the most remarkable of the Tel-
* Annals of the Kingdom of Ireland by the Four Masters.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 92

Foundation of Mellifont Abbey by O'Carroll

Mellifont · townland · Louth · 1142

In 1142, O'Carroll, prompted by St. Malachy, founded the abbey and monastery of Mellifont, with its first monks sent from Clairvaux by St. Bernard. Most of the monks were Frenchmen loyal to the Pope and favourable to Anglo-Norman interests.

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whereou we now stand; its liigli banks, fringed with the natural wood which then overspread the country, and its bottom watered by the rill, at which, perchance, in some of his hunting excursions, the Prince of Oriel had refreshed himself. Here, in 1142, we learn that O'Carroll, at the instance of St. Malachy, founded the alibey and monastery of Mellifont, and that its first stock of monks were sent over by St. Bernard from the parent convent of Clairvaux. A few of these were Irish, but the great majority of them were Frenchmen, acknowledging the supremacy of the Pope, and decidedly favourable to Anglo-Norman interests. Then Avas the underwood cleared away, the oak and the birch fell beneath the woodman's axe, and the wolf and the wild boar were scared from their lurking place, as the valley rang with the clang of hammers and the sharp chip of the chisel. The bees, for Avhich the place Avas celebrated, and from which it Avas named, no longer gathered their winter store from its sweet flowers; and, where the crane and the bittern found their resting place, arose the stately structures of the abbey and surrounding monastic edifices, by far the most gorgeous which had yet been seen in this country. There, where the cooing of the wild pigeon, or the shrill whistle of the lapAving, alone Avere heard in former years, the tolling of the vesper and the matin bell spread in measured cadences over the surrounding Avoodlands, and the perfume of incense rose up from the depths of the once solitary and uncultured valley of the Mattock.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 164

Founding of Mellifont Monastery

Mellifont · townland · Louth · 1142

The monastery of Mellifont, the Honey Fountain, was the first Cistercian house erected in Ireland, and its founding is intertwined with major events in Irish national and church history. Its establishment connects to the introduction of foreign ecclesiastical and civil powers into Ireland.

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The history of this charming abode of the piety and learning of our ancestors is intimately interwoven Avith our national and social history. The story and the date of its erection, its annals and chronicles, recall many of the most romantic among the salient points in the authentic history of Ireland. The monastery of Mellifont (the Honey Fountain) was the first in point of time, and, we believe, as regards beauty of structure, design, and finish, also, ever erected in Ireland by the Cistercians, the great church-founders of the middle ages. So many circumstances bearing upon the conquest of Ireland appear in connexion with the foundation of this noble and extensive establishment, and so many distinguished personages and names of great interest present themselves in studying its annals, that we cannot forbear deviating from our usual course to dilate upon the history of a place much more intimately concerned in the introduction of foreign powers, ecclesiastical as well as civil, into this country, than the •world is generally aware of. As true as that the Irish people were governed lay their own kings and princes, and were amenable to their own laws and brehons only, up to the middle of the twelfth century, so sure is it that the Irish Catholic Church was independent of all foreign rule in either temporal
282 THE EAULY IRISH CHURCH.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 162

Malachy destroys rebel island fortress in Lough Ramor

near Lough Ramor · lake or lakes · Cavan · 845

In 845 AD King Malachy I attacked and destroyed an island fortress in Lough Ramor occupied by Irish outlaws and rebels of Meath who had allied with the Danes, putting the rebels to death.

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from Sliabli Guaire,* is about f^ve miles in length, and from a mile to a mile and a half in breadth. In the year A. D. 845, King Malachy I., who first broke down the Danish power in Ireland, attached and destroyed an island in this lake, on which a number of Irish outlaws and rebels of Meath, who joined the Danes against their own monarch, had fortified themselves. The Irish annals state that these rebels were in the habit of plundering the districts in the neighbourhood of the lake "more Gentilium;" and that Malachy destroyed their island, and put themselves to death. Upon its northern shore stands the neat little town of Virginia, where the tourist who may wish to visit the source of the Sele will find admirable accommodation. After a course of about a mile and a half, the river touches Meath at the barony of Castlekieran, having the coach-road parallel with, and but a short distance from it. It now completely enters Meath, through Avhich county it passes during the remainder of its course. For the first few miles the only objects of antiquarian interest in its vicinity are a number of forts and earthen raths, which crowd upon both sides of the river, and show the military importance of this locality, as Avell as its populous condition, in early times. Several of these enclosures are of great extent, and two which stand upon the immediate brink of the stream are worthy of note, from the peculiarity of their form, being perfectly square.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 87

O'Connell's monster meeting at Tara

Tara · parish · Meath · 1843

The monster meeting at Tara is recalled as the last great effort of O'Connell and the moral force Repealers, occurring only a few years before the book's writing.

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The town of Drogheda notes a memorable era in the time of Cromwell, and its numerous military and ecclesiastical remains extend over a period of undoubted authenticity for at least one thousand years. The site and story of the " Battle of the Boyne," on that memorable occasion when, for the last time, two kings fought tor the sovereignty of these realms, brings us down to a date almost within the memory of man; while the monster meeting at Tara, the last great effort of O'Connell and the " moral force Kepealers," occurred but a few years ago. And yet with all this we know of no river that has been more neglected by writers, and no scenery that is less known within the same distance of the metropolis, than that which the Boyne presents for the greater portion of its course. The modern writers upon Ireland have one and all carefully avoided it. Inglis encircled Ireland, but "did" the Boyne while the northern mail whirled him over the bridge of Drogheda. Barrow no sooner approached its waters than he fled from them in dismay. The " Angler in Ireland" appears to have omitted it by particular desire ; and with the exception of Mr. and Mrs. Hall's account of its appearance at Trim, it has remained unnoticed and undescribed by all modern systematic writers upon the scenery of this portion of the British dominions.
Dr. Petrie, who first drew attention to its beauties in a short paper published in the last volume of those valuable records of Irish history, the Penny Journals, thus graphically describes a portiim of this river: "It is of a character as beautiful as coidd be found anywhere, or even be inja-

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 16

Ownership passes to the Cowleys, ancestors of Wellington

Carbury · townland · Kildare · 1548

After the Berminghams, Castle Carbury passed into the possession of the Cowleys, an English family who were the great ancestors of the Duke of Wellington.

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by that chieftain, his captor and kinsman, to Castle Carbiiry, together with several of the English nobles and ecclesiastics. The celebrated Red Hugh O'Donnel, when laying waste Meath and Leinster in 1475, " demolished and burned Castle Carbury and Ballynieyler." So late as 1546 we read that "the plains of Cairbre and Castle Carbury were plundered and burned" by some of the Irish insurgents, particularly the O'Kelly's, the O'Maddens, and O'Conors. The mode in which this outrage was punished by the high legal functionary of the Government is highly characteristic of the time. " When," .say the Annals, " the Lord Justice, Anthony St. Ledger, heard of this, he came into OfFaly and i^lundered and burned the country as far as the Togher of Cruoghan ;" and again, " the Lord Justice came a second time into OfFaly, and remained fifteen days in the country, plundering and spoiling it, burning churches and monasteries, and destroying crops and corn." These notices, from authentic history, afford us some idea of the state of this country in the middle of the sixteenth centviry ; and of the mode taken by its governors to suppress crime, and to gain the affections of the Irish chiefs and people. The modern part of the present castle must have been erected long since these days, probably in 1548, and appears to have fallen gradually into decay. After the Berminghams it passed into the possession of the Cowleys, an English family, the great ancestors of the Duke of Wellington.* From whatever side we approach, it
* The Hero of Waterloo boasts that he has uot a drop of Irish or Milesian blood in his veins, and so far as the old Irish stock is concerned, he certainly has not (except perhaps a slight collateral rill through the Cusacks of Cushinstown), no more than many other noblemen and gentlemen connected with Ireland, whom the Times calls Celts. For the following pedigree we are indebted to our learned friend, John O' Donovan :

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 28

Panoramic ruins of Trim seen from the Blackbull road

Trim · town · Meath

The author describes the dramatic view of Trim's ruins when approached from Dublin by the Blackbull road, including St. John's Friary, Newtown Abbey, King John's Castle, the Sheep-gate, and the Yellow Steeple. The scene is described as an unrivalled combination of ruins spanning over a mile.

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We now approach Trim from the Avest, but the views of its ruined towers, its steeples, and its abbeys, are, from this side, far inferior to those gained on every other approach. To see Trim aright the tourist must approach it by the Blackbull road from Dublin, when all the glorious ruins which crowd this historic locality, and which extend over a space of above a mile, burst suddenly upon him : the remains of St. John's Friary and castellated buildings at the bridge of Newtown ; the stately abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul a little further on, raising aloft its tall, light, and ivy-mantled windows, the neighbouring chapel, with its sculptured tombs and monumental tablets ; the broad green lawns, through which the Boyne winds, between that and Trim ; the silver stream itself, gliding smoothly onward with unbroken surface ; the grey massive towers of King John's castle, with its outward walls and barbican, the gates, and towers, and bastions, the fosse, and moat, and chapel ; the Sheep-gate and portions of the town-wall ; and, towering above all, the tall, commanding form of the Yellow Steeple, which seems the guardian genius of the surrounding ruins. All these beauteous objects, with the ancient church tower, the town itself, the "Wellington testimonial, and the modern public buildings, form a combination of scenery and an architectural diorama such as we have rarely witnessed. We have also this additional charm in the views of Trim, that, look at this place as we may, its noble ruins are ever forming new combinations, fresh groups of beauty and of interest, singly or collectively: in all the varying aspects caused by atmospheric changes ; in glaring sunshine playing upon their massive walls ; with the heavens overcast, and the drifting shower half revealing some of their turrets and gables;
80 TABLEAUX OF RUINS.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 53

As the companion tells it

Coming up now is Trim, in Meath, and if you are on the Blackbull road from Dublin the ruins break on you all at once. Over a mile of them stretch along the river. You have the remains of St. John's Friary and the castellated buildings at the bridge of Newtown, and a little further on the abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, with its tall ivy-mantled windows. Nearby is a chapel with sculptured tombs and monumental tablets. The Boyne winds through broad green lawns between that and Trim itself, gliding smoothly onward. Then come the grey massive towers of King John's Castle, with its outward walls and barbican, the gates and towers and bastions, the fosse and moat and chapel. There is the Sheep-gate and portions of the town wall. And above everything rises the tall commanding form of the Yellow Steeple, which seems the guardian genius of the surrounding ruins. The old church tower, the town itself, the Wellington testimonial, and the modern public buildings all join into what the author calls an architectural diorama such as he has rarely witnessed. Whatever way you look at Trim, the noble ruins are ever forming new combinations, fresh groups of beauty and of interest. In glaring sunshine playing on their massive walls, or with the heavens overcast and a drifting shower half revealing the turrets and gables, they never look the same twice.

Public burning of a venerated crucifix at Ballybogan in 1538

Ballybogan · townland · Donegal · 1538

Ware's Annals record that in 1538 a crucifix held in great veneration was publicly burned at Ballybogan, part of the Reformation-era destruction of religious images, alongside the burning of the Virgin Mary image at Trim and St Patrick's Staff at Dublin.

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Ware's Annals inform us that in 1538 a crucifix which was held in great veneration was here publicly burned ; and Tober- Crogh-neeve, or the Well of the Holy Cross, at the foot of the hill of Carrick, mentioned at page 45, may, perhaps, have derived its name from some connexion therewith. At the same time the reformers burned the celebrated image of the Virgin Mary at Trim, and St. Patrick's Staff (crozier) at Dublin.
The abbey and surrounding lands at present belong to Lord Lansdowne, who has most creditably placed several buttresses

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 39

Red Hugh O'Donnel burns Castle Carbury, 1475

Carbury · townland · Kildare · 1475

When laying waste to Meath and Leinster in 1475, Red Hugh O'Donnel demolished and burned Castle Carbury along with Ballynieyler.

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by that chieftain, his captor and kinsman, to Castle Carbiiry, together with several of the English nobles and ecclesiastics. The celebrated Red Hugh O'Donnel, when laying waste Meath and Leinster in 1475, " demolished and burned Castle Carbury and Ballynieyler." So late as 1546 we read that "the plains of Cairbre and Castle Carbury were plundered and burned" by some of the Irish insurgents, particularly the O'Kelly's, the O'Maddens, and O'Conors. The mode in which this outrage was punished by the high legal functionary of the Government is highly characteristic of the time. " When," .say the Annals, " the Lord Justice, Anthony St. Ledger, heard of this, he came into OfFaly and i^lundered and burned the country as far as the Togher of Cruoghan ;" and again, " the Lord Justice came a second time into OfFaly, and remained fifteen days in the country, plundering and spoiling it, burning churches and monasteries, and destroying crops and corn." These notices, from authentic history, afford us some idea of the state of this country in the middle of the sixteenth centviry ; and of the mode taken by its governors to suppress crime, and to gain the affections of the Irish chiefs and people. The modern part of the present castle must have been erected long since these days, probably in 1548, and appears to have fallen gradually into decay. After the Berminghams it passed into the possession of the Cowleys, an English family, the great ancestors of the Duke of Wellington.* From whatever side we approach, it
* The Hero of Waterloo boasts that he has uot a drop of Irish or Milesian blood in his veins, and so far as the old Irish stock is concerned, he certainly has not (except perhaps a slight collateral rill through the Cusacks of Cushinstown), no more than many other noblemen and gentlemen connected with Ireland, whom the Times calls Celts. For the following pedigree we are indebted to our learned friend, John O' Donovan :

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 28

Ruined church atop the Hill of Donore where James camped

Donore · town · Meath · 1690

The Hill of Donore, a conspicuous elevation crowned by a ruined church with only wall fragments and an east window remaining, contains an altar tomb of one of the Synnots and was likely already a ruin by 1690, marking where the Stuart line lost the throne.

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After the Boyne passes the great monument of New Grange, it alters its course, turning towards the north, and, with various minor windings, forms a deep curve between that point and Drogheda, which is distant about five miles in a direct or bird line. Having reached Townley Hall, it again turns to the south-east, towards Drogheda, and thus completes the curve or elbow to which we have just alluded. Within this bend of the river, upon the right or southern bank, the ground rises by a succession of smooth and gentle slopes to the hill of Donore, a conspicuous elevation, crowned by a ruined church, and surrounded by a few straggling ash trees. Of this ruin nothing now remains but portions of the walls and the east AvindoAV, beneath which, and within the enclosure of the church, we find the handsome altar tomb of one of the Synnots. It is probable that this church was a ruin in 1690. The view from this point commands the entire scene upon the north and east, inclviding Drogheda and the mouth of the Boyne. It is a lone, deserted spot, seldom visited by the tourist, though memorable as marking the place at which the sceptre passed for ever from the last monarch of the royal line of Stuart. The Boyne winds round towards the north in front of this hill, from the summit of which it is distant not quite an English mile. To the right, or east, the hill fines off towards Drogheda, which is about a mile and a half distant. Its western side abuts upon, and is completely protected by the high precipitous banks of the river, now covered by the plantations of the demesnes of Farm and Oldbridge. Immediately behind this hill, towards the south, the way lies open to Dublin, along the sea-board line; and toward the south-west, situated about three miles from Donore, at the extremity of a long hill, is the village of Duleek. To the extreme north-west lies Slane, between which and Drogheda, a distance of about nine miles following the windings of the river, there Avas not at the time of the battle, nor is there yet, a bridge. Several shallows, however, occur between those tAvo points; descending the stream, some weirs, about half a mile below Slane, point out the site of ancient fords, but the principal shallow is at Rossnaree, immediately beneath the monuments of Knowth and New Grange, about

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 145

Talbot's Castle: Sir John Talbot and later school for Wellington and Hamilton

Trim · town · Meath · 1415

Talbot's Castle at Trim was built by Sir John Talbot, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in 1415 known as 'The Scourge of France.' It later became the Diocesan School of Meath, where both the Duke of Wellington and astronomer Sir William Rowan Hamilton were educated.

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This building was until lately the Diocesan School of Meath, Avhen it acquired an additional celebrity from the Duke of Wellington having been for some time at school there. In it also was educated another distinguished Irishman, Sir William liowan Hamilton, our Astronomer Eoyal. At present the building possesses little to attract attention except a tablet in the northern wall bearing the Talbot arms, quartered with those of Furnival.
Dangan, one of the seats of the Wellesley family, and where the Duke spent many of his boyish days, is distant about five miles from Trim, bvit is now completely dilapidated, and has long since passed out of the hands of the Wellesley family.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 60

As the companion tells it

Coming up through Trim, you have Talbot's Castle, built in 1415 by Sir John Talbot, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, known as The Scourge of France. It later served as the Diocesan School of Meath, where the Duke of Wellington was educated for a time, as was Sir William Rowan Hamilton, the Astronomer Royal. The building today holds little to draw the eye, save for a tablet in the northern wall bearing the Talbot arms quartered with those of Furnival. About five miles from Trim lies Dangan, a former seat of the Wellesley family where the Duke spent many boyish days, now completely dilapidated and long out of Wellesley hands.

The 1798 Croppies' Grave at Tara

Tara · parish · Meath · 1798

In 1798 a pillar-stone, formerly atop the Mound of the Hostages, was moved to the centre of the Forradh and erected as a headstone over the grave of thirty-seven insurgents killed in a skirmish with the military nearby.

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Between the house of Cormac and the rath of the Forradh existed, it is supposed, the ruins of Tea-mm\ from Avhich Temur, or Tara, takes its name, in memory of a Milesian queen called Tea. In the centre of the internal mound of the Forradh stands an upright stele or circular pillar-stone, which was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hostages, but was removed to this spot in the year 1798, and erected as a headstone to the grave of thirty-seven of the insurgents, Avho Avere killed in a skirmish with the military in this neighbourhood. Dr. Petrie supposes this stone to be the celebrated Lia Fail, on Avhich the early Irish kings were crowned, and Avhich has been generally belieA^ed to haA^e been carried to Scotland for the coronation of Fergus Mac Eark, and afterwards removed by Edward I. from Scone to Westminster Abbey. The Lia Fail was the stone so famed in ancient history, Avhich Avas said to have roared beneath the Irish kings at the time of their in-
>*»?^v

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 78

The great domed chamber at New Grange compared to Mycenae

Newgrange · townland · Meath

The passage leads to a large dome-roofed chamber, nearly circular with three recesses forming a cruciform plan. The author compares its corbelled dome construction to the tomb of Agamemnon at Mycenae, noting differences in construction and craftsmanship.

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The passage leads to a large dome-roofed chamber. As all is perfect darkness within this cavern, it is necessary to illuminate it in order to form any just idea of its figure or extent. When about half lighted up, and we begin to perceive the size and character of this great hive-shaped dome, and its surrounding crypts, formed by stones of such immense size, lialf revealed to iis by the uncertain light of our tapers, an air of mystery steals over the senses, — a religious awe pervades the place; and while we do not put any faith in the wild fancies of those antiquaries of the last century, who would make the world believe that this was a great Druid temple, an Antrum Miithrw, in which the sacred rites of Paganism,
with its human sacrifices, were enacted, we wonder less at the flight which their imaginations have taken. This cavern is nearly circular, with three oiFsets, or recesses, from it, — one opposite the entrance on the north, and one on each side, east and west, so that the ground plan, including the passage, accurately represents the figure of a cross.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 118

1322 Rule Against English Admission at Mellifont

Mellifont · townland · Louth · 1322

Despite originally being devoted to foreign influence, the monks of Mellifont became more Irish than the Irish themselves, and in 1322 it was decreed that no person could be admitted to the abbey without an oath that they were not of English descent.

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Ireland, who presented to the abbey one hundred and forty oxen, sixty ounces of gold, and a townland near Drogheda; of O'Eochy, King of Ulidia or Down ; Tiernan O'Rourke, Prince of Brefney;* and O'Carrol of Oriel, who endowed the abbey with sixty ounces of gold. The chief matter of consequence transacted at this convocation was the excommunication and deposition of Dunchad OMelaghlin, King of Meath, and the election of Dermod, his brother, in his stead. It was upon this occasion that the abbey church was consecrated with great solemnity; and among the oblations made to it, besides those already specified, we read that Dervorgail, the ill-fated wife of the Leitrim chieftain, and whose so-called abduction is assigned as the cause of the English invasion, richly endowed this foreign monastery, having presented to it on that occasion sixty ounces of gold with a golden chalice for the high altar, and ornaments and holy furniture for nine other altars in the same church. And here, as we already stated at page 19, she afterwards retired towards the close of her life, and died in 1 193. Whether she was present on the occasion of the consecration is not mentioned in the Annals, but the circumstance occurred during the seventeen years' interval from the period of her elopement to that of the first English invasion. In the same year (1193), the relics of St. Malachy, who died upon the Continent, were brought into Ireland and received with great pomp at this abbey. As might be expected from the foregoing recital, the house of Mellifont was patronized by the English on their first coming into Ireland, and accordingly we read that both Henry and John confirmed all its grants, and granted it several charters of great value. Upon several occasions the abbots of Mellifont were restricted from sending money to the original Cistercian settlement at Clairvaux; but, although originally so much devoted to foreign influence, the monks of Mellifont became, like other settlers, more Irish than the Irish themselves; and in 1322 " it was determined that no person Avhatsoever should be admitted into this abbey before he had taken an oath that he was not of English descent." This abbey is sometimes called Meli; in some

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 164

Antiquities and human remains excavated at Dowth

Dowth · townland · Meath

Excavations at Dowth uncovered globular stone sling-shot, fragments of human heads, quantities of burned and unburned bones (human, horse, pig, deer, birds, short-horned oxen similar to Dunshaughlin finds), glass and amber beads, jet bracelets, a stone button, bone bodkins, copper pins, and iron knives and rings.

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During the excavations some very interesting relics and antiquities were discovered. Among the stones which form the great heap, or cairn, were found a number of globular stone shot, about the size of grape-shot, probably sling-stones, and also fragments of human heads; within the chamber, mixed with the clay and dust which had accumulated, were found a quantity of bones, consisting of heaps, as well as scattered fragments of burned bones, many of which jiroved to be human; also several unburned bones of horses, pigs, deer, and birds, with portions of the heads of the shorthorned variety of the ox, similar to those found at Dunshaughlin, and the head of a fox. Glass and amber beads, of unique shapes, portions of jet bracelets, a curious stone button or fibula, bone bodkins, copper pins, and iron knives and rings, the two latter similar to those found at Dunshaughlin, were also picked up. Some years ago a gentleman who then resided in the neighbourhood cleared out a portion of the passage, and found a few iron antiquities, some bones of mammals, and a small stone urn, which he lately presented to the Academy. Much might here be written upon the remains of the Fanna known to the ancient Irish, did our space permit; we can, however, merely specify some of the bones, and mention some of the articles Avhich were discovered. In the beginning of the last century, a stone urn, somewhat similar in shape to "the upper part of a man's skull," was found in a kistvaen at Knowth; this, we believe.
210

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 126

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here at Dowth, excavations turned up a remarkable collection of ancient remains and artefacts. Among the stones of the great cairn were globular stone shot about the size of grape-shot, probably sling-stones, and fragments of human heads. Inside the chamber, mixed with clay and dust, lay heaps of burned bones, many of them human, alongside unburned bones of horses, pigs, deer, birds, and the head of a fox. There were also portions of the heads of the shorthorned ox, similar to those found at Dunshaughlin. The finds included glass and amber beads of unique shapes, pieces of jet bracelets, a curious stone button or fibula, bone bodkins, copper pins, and iron knives and rings, the last two again similar to the Dunshaughlin discoveries. Some years ago a gentleman living in the neighbourhood cleared part of the passage and found a few iron antiquities, some mammal bones, and a small stone urn, which he later presented to the Academy. A stone urn shaped somewhat like the upper part of a man's skull had earlier been found in a kistvaen at Knowth.

Battlefield remains discovered at Rathcore

Rathcore · townland · Meath

During railway cutting works between Enfield and Clonard, a battlefield was exposed at Rathcore in the townland of Newcastle, with the bank found littered white with human bones thrown into a pit along with iron spear-heads and hatchets, thought to be gallowglass remains.

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In the cuttings that were made along the banks of the canal, between Enfield and Clonax'd, for the progress of the railway, a most interesting battle-field was opened at Rathcore, in the townland of Newcastle, county of Meath, and such a quantity of human bones exposed, that the entire bank was literally white with them. They were found in every possible position, but had evidently been thrown into a large pit, without order, and not surrounded by any form of sepulchral monument. The most superficial part of this ossific stratum Avas scarcely two feet beneath the surface : and along with these bones were found some iron spear-heads, hatchets, and other weapons, which incline us to believe that these remains may be those of the gallowglasses, or heavy Irish soldiery employed in this country from the tenth to the end of the fifteenth century. Such, however, may be the speculations which men will yet form when similar exhumations occur on the fields of Cressy, Poictiers, or Agincourt, or, in a few centuries to come, perhaps even Waterloo. Some of these weapons have been placed in the national collection of the Academy.
The Annals of the Four Masters have afi"orded us the following references to this locality :

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 50

Bishop Erc's austere devotion in the Boyne

Slane · townland · Meath

According to the tale of the Banquet of Dun na n-Gedh, Bishop Erc of Slane had a custom of standing immersed in the Boyne up to his armpits from morning till evening, praying with his Psalter before him, subsisting on a meagre daily meal.

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" And the collectors went forth throughout Meath, in search of the eggs, until they came to a small Duirtheach [hermitage], in which was one woman with a black hood upon her head, and she praying to God. The king's people saw a flock of geese at the door of the Duirtheach; they went into the house and found a vessel full of goose eggs. ' We have had great success,' said they, ' for should we search Erin, there could not be found more goose eggs together in one place than are here.' ' It will not be good success,' said the woman, ' and it will not redound to the happiness of the banquet to which this small quantity of provisions will be brought.' ' Why so?' said they. ' It is plain,' said the woman; ' a wonder- woidcing saint of God's people dwells here, namely, Bishop Ere, of Slaine,* and his custom is to remain immersed in the Boinn, up to his two arm- pits, from morning till evening, having his Psalter before him on the strand, constantly engaged in prayer ; and his dinner every evening on returning hither is an egg and a half, and three sprigs of the cresse of the Boinn ; and it behoves you not to take away from him the small store of food which he has. But the proud people of the king made no reply to her, — for they were plebeians in the shape of heroes on this occasion, — and they carried away the property
* " Tliis is an anachronism, for Bishop Ere, of Slaine, who was contemporary with St. Patrick, died in tlie year 514 (Ussher's I'rimordia, p. 442), and this battle was fought in the year G38, that is 124 years after Era's death ! The probability is, that the original com]ioser of the story had written Comharha [i. e. successor] of Ere, of Slaine ; but all tlie copies to which we have access at present agree in making the saint Ere himself." See " The Banquet of Dun na n-Gedh, and the Battle of Magh-Rath, an ancient historical Tale, now first published from a Manuscript in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, with Translation and Notes, by John O'Donovan, for the Irish Archajological Society."

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 107

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Slane, the collectors of the king were searching Meath for eggs. They came to a small hermitage where one woman sat with a black hood on her head, praying to God. The king's people saw a flock of geese at the door and went in and found a vessel full of goose eggs. They said, "We have had great success, for should we search Erin, there could not be found more goose eggs together in one place than are here." The woman said, "It will not be good success, and it will not redound to the happiness of the banquet to which this small quantity of provisions will be brought." They asked her why. She said, "It is plain. A wonder-working saint of God's people dwells here, namely, Bishop Erc of Slane, and his custom is to remain immersed in the Boyne, up to his two armpits, from morning till evening, having his Psalter before him on the strand, constantly engaged in prayer; and his dinner every evening on returning hither is an egg and a half, and three sprigs of the cress of the Boyne; and it behoves you not to take away from him the small store of food which he has." But the proud people of the king made no reply to her, for they were plebeians in the shape of heroes on this occasion, and they carried away the eggs.

Bodies of Brian Boru and his son carried through Duleek after Clontarf

Duleek · town · Meath · 1014

After the Battle of Clontarf in 1014, the bodies of Brian Borumha and his son Morough were carried to Swords and then conveyed by monks to Duleek, before being sent onward to another abbey.

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this time the churches of Ireland were built of wattles and boards." Thus it would appear that the original church here was the first stone ecclesiastical edifice ever erected in Ireland, being many years antecedent to the buildings at Armagh ; and, by the early Irish annalists, the term Daimllag is used for " church" as well as Temjmll. But although Kienan is said to have been, and probably was the first stone-church builder in Ireland, we read in an old poem, written by a monkofMonasterboice, usually called " Flann of the Monastery," in the eleventh century, that among the servants or attendants of St. Patrick there were three masons, whose names are specified, and who '■'■made claim] lags first in Erin.''''* A daimliag would evidently appear to mean not only a stone building, for such existed in Ireland prior to that date, of which the cloughans of Arran are examples (and perhaps some of the small stone oratories, and the buildings contained within the ancient cashels, might also be cited in proof of this), but a building of stones put together with lime, mortar, or other cement. Kienan died in 489, and his festival day is kept on the 24th November. f Duleek was the first bishop's see ever created in Ireland; and until the ambitious Simon Rochfort, shortly after the English invasion, suppressed it, or rather caused it to merge into another, on establishing himself sole Bishop of Meath, it was one of the seven which assisted to form that great ecclesiastical principality. From its exposed and maritime situation, the village of Duleek, with its rich abbey and church, offered an easy prey to the marauding Danes, by whom it was frequently plundered and burned, from 830 to 1037. After the battle of Clontarf in 1014, the bodies of Brian Borumha and his son Morough were carried to Swords, and next day conveyed by the monks of that abbey to Duleek, from whence they were afterwards transmitted to the abbey of
* This poem is preserved in the book of Lecan, one of our most ancient Gaelic manuscripts. See Dr. Petrie's reference to it in his History of the Round Towers, p 141.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 158

Brugh na Boinne, the Royal Cemetery of the Boyne

near Brú na Bóinne · monument · Meath

Brugh na Boinne, extending along the northern bank of the Boyne from Slane to Netterville, was the great royal pagan cemetery of the Kings of Tara, comprising mounds, caves, pillar-stones, and other sepulchral monuments described in ancient Irish manuscripts.

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There were several royal burial places in Ireland in early Pagan times, eight of which have been enumerated. In the Senchas-na-Kelec, or the History of the Cemeteries, contained in the Leabhar na h-Uidhre, a work compiled at Clonmacnoise, in the twelfth century, we learn that among these chief cemeteries were Cruachan, now Rathcroghan, in the county of Roscommon, where there are still considerable remains; Tailltean, Teamhair Erann, or Tara, and Oenach Colmaiu ; so from these it would appear that the monarchs were sometimes buried in the immediate vicinity, or perhaps within the enclosure of their dwellings, like King Loeghaire, who was contemporary with St. Patrick, and who was interred in a standing position, with his weapons and war dress upon him, in the external rampart of the rath which bears his name at Tara, with his face turned southward, towards his enemies, the Leinstermen. But by far the most celebrated and extensive of all the Irish cemeteries was that denominated Brugh, or Brurjh na Boinne, the Burgum Boinne, the fort or town of the Boyne, of which an account is given, not only in the work already alluded to, but in another Irish manuscript of great antiquity, the Dinnseanchus, a tract contained in the great Speckled Book of Ballymote; and to this place references continually occur in almost every ancient Irish manuscript. This was the great royal cemetery of the Kings of Tara ; and from an examination of the various authorities which describe it, as well as the monuments themselves which still exist, it is manifest that Brugh na Boinne was no other than the assemblage of moxxnds, caves, pillar-stones, and other sepulchral monuments, forming the great necropolis which extends along the left or northern bank of the river, from Slane to Netterville. " The nobles of

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 111

Caeilte's Battle and the Cairn of Fothadh Airgthech near Larne

near Larne · town · Antrim · 285

Caeilte, foster-brother of Finn Mac Cumhail, killed Fothadh Airgthech in the battle of Ollarba near Larne with a spear, and later identified the grave and cairn, describing a stone chest with silver rings, bracelets, a torque, and an Ogham-inscribed pillar-stone.

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Did our space permit, or if the object for which this book is written allowed it, we could, from abundant materials now at hand, record the modes of interment as well as the exact burial-places of many of the Pagan Irish chieftains and warriors, together with their mode of death, and many other most interesting particulars connected with this subject. It is related that Caeilte, the foster-brother and one of the generals of Finn Mac Cumhail, killed Fothadh Airgthech in the battle of 01larba, near the Larne, in the county of Antrim, A. D. 285, with a spear, the ir-on head of which passed through him, and was left buried in the earth. The grave of the vanquished is afterwards recognised by Caeilte, who, it would appear, threw the spear or dart at his enemy from a rock in the neighbourhood. He thus describes the locality : "■ The round stone from which I made that shot will be found, and east of it will be found the iron head of the spear buried in the earth ; and the iilidh [cairn] of Fothadh Airgthech will be found a short distance to the east of it. There is a chest of stone about him in the earth. There are two rings of silver and his huiine doats [bracelets!] and his torque of silver on his chest, and there is

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 112

Cairn marking death of King Eochy at Ballysadare Bay

Ballysadare Bay · bay · Sligo

After retreating to Cuil-Iorra following defeat at southern Moy-Thuree, the Belgian king Eochy was slain crossing the strand of Ballysadare Bay; a cairn rising above the high water mark still marks the spot where he fell.

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of the celebrated battle fought on the plains of Moy Turey, in the county of Sligo, Avhen Nuada Airgeat Lamh, the king of the Tuatha De Danaan, completely routed the Belga? or Firbolgs, a vast number of whom are said to have been slain ; and on that battle-field, the Marathon of Irish history, we have still remaining the tumuli or barrows erected over the remains of our early Pagan progenitors. Dr. Petrie detailed to the Academy, in the year 1 838, an account of a most remarkable collection of cairns, cromlechs, and stone circles, at Carrowmore, in the vicinity of Sligo, all containing human remains. " Such monuments," he stated, " are found in all the battlefields recorded in Irish history, as the scene of con test between the Belgians or Firbolgs and the Tuatha De Danaan colonies, and he considers these monuments to be the tombs of the Belgians, who, after their defeat in the battle of southern Moy- Thuree, had retreated to Cuil-Iorra, and were there again defeated, and their king Eochy slain in crossing the strand of Ballysadare bay, on which a cairn rising above high water still marks the spot on which he fell." To these Tuatha De Danaan, or metal workers, we are inclined to assign a Celtic origin, and to their art and ingenuity to attribute the workmanship of those beautiful bronze or antique-metal ornaments and weapons, formed by a mixture of copper and tin, so generally found over the face of the cotmtry, and now swelling our national collection at the Royal Irish Academy.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 134

Cromwell's cannon damages Trim castle tower

Trim · town · Meath · 1649–1650

The tower facing the town gate at Trim castle is said to have been destroyed by the cannon of Cromwell during his campaign in Ireland.

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great keep or donjon in the centre is a rectangular building, Avith massive square towers abutting from each side, and rising to a height of nearly eighty feet ; some parts of the wall are twelve feet in thickness. By the arrangement of its ground plan, it presented, when perfect, a figure of tAventy sides, and the external face is still in very excellent preservation, with the exception of the toAver facing the toAvn gate, which is said to have been destroyed by the cannon of Cromwell. Some of the winding staircases, by which the topmost turrets were reached, still enable the visitor to gain the highest pinnacle, from whence a view of immense extent and great interest is obtained. Standing here, the eye ranges over many miles of the vast and fertile plains of Meath, with the Boyne sweeping through them, the various groups of ruins immediately beneath and around,
* See some account of the Territory or Dominion of Fame}', &c. Evelyn Philip Shirley. 4to. London: Pickering. 1845. p. 17.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 59

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Trim, the great keep of Trim castle still stands, a rectangular building with massive square towers rising nearly eighty feet, its walls twelve feet thick in places. The tower that faced the town gate is gone. It is said to have been destroyed by the cannon of Cromwell during his campaign in Ireland, around 1649 to 1650. The rest of the keep remains in excellent preservation, and some of the winding staircases still lead to the topmost turrets, where the view stretches over many miles of the plains of Meath and the Boyne running through them.

Crossing of the Boyne at Rossnaree Ford Near Knowth

Rossnaree · townland · Meath · 1690

William's forces under Schomberg, Douglas, Overkirk and Portland crossed the Boyne at the ford of Rossnaree, near the elevated banks by Knowth, meeting little opposition except from the regiment of Sir Neal O'Neale, who was himself killed in the skirmish there.

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There is one point in the battle of the Boyne (Avhich we were the first to point out, in the earlier edition of this work), on which sufiicient stress has not been laid, although it Avould appear to have had a greater influence on the issue of the fight than historians are aware. The right wing of the Irish army was completely protected by Drogheda, the Boyne, and the sea ; its left towards Slane was unprotected ; and if this was once turned or outflanked, the road to Duleek must be occupied, Dublin would be cut off", and then the temporary refuge of the fortress of Drogheda afforded the only hope for the Irish army. This could not escape the notice of a skilful opposing general, neither was it unforeseen to some of the advisers of King James, although he himself does not appear to have paid sufficient attention to it. At break of day upon the morning of Tuesday, the 1st of July, which was a remarkably clear, hot day, William despatched 10,000 men under the younger Schomberg, Generals Douglas, Overkirk, and Lord Portland, to cross the river at the fords, near Slane, of the existence and passability of which he appears to have been well informed. Proceeding behind the hill, now included in the demesne of Townley Hall, and crossing the Mattock river at Monk-Newtown, they were concealed from the Irish until they appeared on the elevated banks near Knowth, above the ford of Kossnaree, where it would appear the cavalry crossed with scarcely any opposition, except from the regiment of SirNealO'Neale, who himself was killed in the skirmish. The foot under Portland passed round by the bridge of Slane, two miles farther off, but joined the English cavalry near a marsh or bog which stood between them and their opponents, and before a sufficient force could have been despatched by James to oppose them. Here then was an army, nearly half the size of that of King James, advancing upon the left wing of the
THE BATTLE OF ROSSNAREE. 253

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

Donough O'Carroll's Foundation of the Monastery on the Boyne

Mellifont · townland · Louth

Donough O'Carroll, King of Oirgialla and church reformer, founded the entire monastery of Mellifont, both stone and wood, granting territory and land for its prosperity, in honour of SS Paul and Peter, with the monastery said to house 100 monks and 300 conventuals.

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There lived at this time a chieftain of great note, named Donough O'Carroll, King of Oirgialla, or Oriel, — a territory then comprising the present counties of Armagh, Monaghan, and Louth ; he is memorable in historj as the great church reformer of his day, and was the intimate friend of Malachy, in whose diocese his territory lay. In an ancient manuscript preserved in the Ussher collection in the library of Trinity College, we learn that it was he who " made the book of Cnoc na n-Apstal at Louth, and the chief books of the order of the year, and the chief book of the Mass. It was this great king who founded the entire monastery, both of stone and wood, and gave territory and land to it for the prosperity of his soul, in honour of SS. Paul and Peter. By him the church throughout the land of Oirghiall Avas reformed, and a regular bishopric was made, and the church was placed under the jurisdiction of the bishop. In his time tithes were received, and the marriage ceremony was assented to, and churches were founded, aud temples and cloigtlieachs were made, and monasteries of monks, and canons, and nuns, were re-edified, and nemheds (sanctuaries, or sacred enclosures) were made. These were specially the works which he performed for the prosperity of his soul and reign in the land of Oirgialla, namely, the Monastery of Monks on the banks of the Boyne, both as to stone and wooden furniture, and books, and territory, and land, in which monastery there are 100 monks and 300 conventuals."*
We can, without any great stretch of fancy, imagine these two great men, Malachy and O'Carroll, setting out to seek a spot sufficiently fertile, well circumstanced, calm and sequestered, on which to plant that great monastic institution, which afterwards bore so considerable a part in Irish church history, and being struck with the beauty and seclusion of the valley

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 163

Duke of Wellington's birthplace debate: Merrion Street, Dublin

near Merrion Street · street · Dublin · 1769

Though popularly believed to have been born in or near Trim, the evidence favours Dublin as the Duke of Wellington's birthplace, specifically the house occupied by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners in Upper Merrion Street, with a parish registry entry recording his birth on 30 April 1769.

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parish, in this city, contains the following entry : "Arthur, son of the Earl and Countess Mornington, born 30th April, 1769." The house where "The Duke" resided for some time at Trim still stands at the corner of Dublin-Gate-street.
The borough of Trim has the honour of having returned the Duke of Wellington, on his twenty-first birth day, to represent it in the Irish Parliament; and, in 1847, the gentry of Meath erected a Corinthian colunm on the fair-green of this town, to commemorate the military achievements of our distinguished countryman, whose early life and history is so intimately connected with this ancient town.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 60

As the companion tells it

Somewhere about Merrion Street is where the Duke of Wellington was born. A parish registry records that Arthur, son of the Earl and Countess Mornington, was born on 30 April 1769, in this city. Though many connect him with Trim, where he later lived and where the borough returned him to the Irish Parliament on his twenty-first birthday, the registry entry points to Dublin as his birthplace.

Duke of Wellington's early residence at Dangan and Trim testimonial

Dangan · townland · Meath

A testimonial pillar was erected in Trim by the gentry of Meath honouring the Duke of Wellington, who spent part of his youth at nearby Dangan and represented the borough of Trim in his first parliamentary seat.

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It would seem as if the modern inhabitants — perhaps degenerated by the causes which have ever acted in demoralizing small corporations, and owing in part to the unfortunate circumstances of a plurality of landlords, or wanting the stimulus of the warder's bvxgle, and the exciting scenes when De Lacy's lancers and mailed warriors careered through their narrow streets, when the standard of royalty proudly Avaved from the tall towers of their castle, and the mitred abbot and stole-girt priest, with all the gorgeous paraphernalia of the Church, paraded their dull town — have sunk down into apathy and listless indifference. According to the last Census, the population of Trim amounted to 2269 persons, 1 1 24 males, and 1 1 45 females. It has the honour of being the county town, and possesses a gaol, a fever hospital, a poor-house, barrack, courthouse, and a school under the Incorporated Society endowed by Eichard first Baron Mornington ; and it has been ornamented with a testimonial pillar, erected by the gentry of Meath to the honour of the Hero of Waterloo, who spent some of his early days at Dangan, in this neighbourhood, and who represented this borough the first time he sat in Parliament.
We cannot say much for the accommodation of Trim ; but we are bound to acknowledge every possible desire to afford comfort and civility. A little more care, and a little more cleanliness, added to the civility which it at present affords, would make the Trim hotel a very desirable residence during a tourist's stay. A coach passes between this town and Dublin twice in the day, and the Navan Railway on the one side, and Midland Great Western on the other, bring the tourist within little more than an hour's drive of the scene we are describing. The immediate suburbs, like all those surrounding ancient monastic remains, exhibit great richness and fertility. Before it enters the town the Boyne widens considerably, but becomes exceedingly contracted while passing beneath the ancient castle. It is crossed by a narrow bridge not unlike that of Drogheda.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

Edward Bruce burns Kells and defeats Mortimer

Kells · town · Meath · 1315

In 1315, Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger Mortimer and burned the town of Kells during his campaign in Ireland.

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The Annals of Kells would fill a vohime such as this ; we can here only allude to a few of the most remarkable historic events which occurred here. We already mentioned the erection of the early ecclesiastical buildings at Kells by St. Columb. It is recorded that in 806 Cellah, Abbot of lona, took refuge here from the Norwegians, and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. Numerous battles were fought, both within and on the plains around Kells, which sustained several sieges, and was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed ; its churches robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen; its abbots and monks murdered, and its soldiers and inhabitants either butchered or carried off as prisoners by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders, for ujDwards of nine hundred years. Plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death, form the chief items in the records of this ancient and most celebrated place. We read that Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to this abbey in 1108, and Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger jMortimer, and burned the town of Kells in 1315; — and thus might we occupy an entire chajster.
One of the most valuable pieces of antiquity connected with this place, and which has come down to modern times, is the celebrated Book of Kells, a most beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinitj' College.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 92

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is Kells, a town the road passes through in Meath. The Annals of Kells would fill a volume. We can only touch on a few of the most remarkable events here. St. Columb erected the early ecclesiastical buildings at Kells. In 806 Cellah, Abbot of Iona, took refuge here from the Norwegians and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. Numerous battles were fought, both within and on the plains around Kells, which sustained several sieges and was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed. Its churches were robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen. Its abbots and monks were murdered, its soldiers and inhabitants either butchered or carried off as prisoners, by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders, for upwards of 900 years. Plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death form the chief items in the records of this ancient and most celebrated place. Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to the abbey in 1108. Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger Mortimer and burned the town of Kells in 1315. One of the most valuable pieces of antiquity connected with this place is the celebrated Book of Kells, a beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinity College.

Hugh de Lacy builds the castle of Trim, c. 1173

Trim · town · Meath · 1173

Henry II granted the territory of Meath to Hugh de Lacy, who fixed on Trim as his residence and built a strong castle there around 1173, surrounded by a deep moat likely fed by the Boyne.

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There is no evidence of the existence of a castle, or any military building, at Trim, anterior to the date of the English invasion. If the O'Melaghlins, the original monarchs of Meath, possessed a stronghold here, no record of it has come down to modern time. As we have already stated, Heni-y II. bestowed, for the service of fifty knights, the fertile territory of Meath upon the celebrated Hugh de Lacy ; who fixed on Trim as his residence, and built there, about the year 11 73, a strong castle, surrounded by a deep moat, into which it is most likely the water of the Boyne was conducted. Having established his power and authority in this part of the kingdom, the Norman baron departed for England, leaving his stronghold at Trim in the custody of Hugh Tyrrell.
" To destroy this castle, Roderick O'Connor, King of Connaught, assembled a large army; and Tyrrell, having despatched messengers to Earl Strongbow, beseeching him to come to his aid, and finding himself too weak to resist the multitudes brought against him, he abandoned the castle and burned it. The Irish king, having thus obtained his object, returned to his own country; and Earl Strongbow, who was advancing to the relief of Trim, meeting on his Avay with intelligence that the castle was burned, marched on, and when he came there he found neither castle nor house to lodge in ; wherefore he made no stay, but pursu.ed the enemy, and fell upon their rear, of whom 150 were slain; which done, he returned to Dublin, and Hugh Tyrrell to the ruined castle of Trim, to re-edify the same before Hugh De Lacy's return out of England.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 57

As the companion tells it

As you come through Trim, you're passing a town with no recorded castle before the English came. If the O'Melaghlins, the old monarchs of Meath, had a stronghold here, nothing of it survived in writing. Henry II gave the whole fertile territory of Meath to Hugh de Lacy for the service of fifty knights, and de Lacy chose Trim as his seat. About 1173 he built a strong castle there, ringed by a deep moat that was most likely fed by the waters of the Boyne. Once he had his grip on the place, de Lacy left for England and put Hugh Tyrrell in charge of the castle. Roderick O'Connor, King of Connaught, gathered a large army to destroy it. Tyrrell sent word to Earl Strongbow begging for help, but seeing he was too weak against the numbers facing him, he abandoned the castle and burned it himself. O'Connor, having got what he came for, went home. Strongbow, marching to relieve Trim, got word along the road that the castle was already burned. He arrived to find neither castle nor house to lodge in, so he pressed on, caught the enemy's rear, and slew 150 of them before returning to Dublin. Tyrrell came back to the ruins to rebuild before de Lacy returned from England.

Legend of St. Kieran and St. Columb's cross theft

Castlekeeran · townland · Meath

Local tradition holds that St. Kieran had crosses hewn at the quarry of Carrickleck for his church at Castlekieran, and that St. Columb of Kells stole three of them by night; when caught taking a fourth, Columb threw it into the river where it remains to this day.

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remaining at Kells, At last, upon the night that he was taking away the fourth, St, Kieran awoke, and caught him in this very act of petty larceny, Kieran immediately " buckled" in his brother of Kells, just as he w^as stepping into the ford of the river with the base of the cross on his back ; but the latter being the younger and the stronger man, the cross-owner was soon worsted. He wasn't, however, to be bet so asily, so he still held fast by the thief, who, seeing that he could not get off clear with his booty, threw it into the middle of the river, from whicli it has never since been removed, and where, except during a heavy ilood, it is always to be seen.
It is hard to hear those slanders of the good St. Columb, or

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 87

Legend of the impious cake-baking woman

Monasterboice · townland · Louth

A hand carved holding a paten beneath the northern arm of Muiredach's Cross is explained by local peasant legend as commemorating a woman who baked a cake on a Sunday, and the cake stuck to her hand as punishment.

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preservation than in any other. It represents the Temptation in Paradise and the Expulsion. In the former subject are figures of Adam and Eve, the tree of knowledge, and the serpent. In the latter is the angel, with an ornamented tunic and long beard, driving our first parent from the garden, whose attitude, as he crouches into a corner, with the palms of his hands turned forwards, as if in entreaty and submission, is very characteristic, and, of its kind, the most expressive of utter helplessness we ever witnessed. On the base are two dogs fighting, one having hold of the other's ear. On other portions of the cross are various emblematic devices of little importance, with the exception of that beneath the northern arm, which represents a very well carved hand holding a paten. The neighbouring peasantry have a legend concerning this, to the eff"ect that it was carved in commemoration of a woman who was impious enough to make a cake on a Sunday, and that it stuck to her hand. The lichen and moss which grow upon this cross are much sought after for the cure of various diseases, as is also the water which accumulates in
the mortice of the smallest or

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 170

Legend of the witch casting the stone from Croghan Hill

Carrick · townland · Offaly

The legend attached to the Witch's Stone on the Hill of Carrick tells that a witch cast this stone from the hill of Croghan at some early saints, and that it alighted here, a legend the author compares to similar northern European traditions.

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The hill of Carrick (the Rock), which very much resembles that of Carbury, and commands a similar extent and beauty of prospect, derives its name from a large block of trap rock, called " the Witch's Stone," which stands upon its northern brow, just over the great limestone quarry. It is evidently the same kind of stone as the large mass of trap which is to be found about ten miles off, near Philipstown, to the south-west of this hill ; but whether it is a boulder, and Avas carried to this spot — which is in the general direction of the great current which appears to have transported the beds of limestone gravel throughout Leinster — by natural means; or was transported there by art for some sacred purpose in early Pagan times, as Ave know was frequently the case, it is difficult to say. Upon the lower Boyne, near the hill of Dowth, we meet masses of compact basalt, fully as large, which must have been transported there by artificial means. The legend is, that a witch cast this stone from the hill of Croghan, at some of our early saints, and that it alighted here. This is a favourite and widely spread legend in the north of Europe ; in Scotland we find it preserved
* AYhile we write, we understand there are 1800 paupers in the Workhouse of Edenderry ! There must have been something wrong in the sj'stem which produced all this misery in the neighbourhood of such a fertile country.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 33

Lieutenant-General Hamilton captured near the ford

Donore · town · Meath · 1690

At the ford near Oldbridge, the Irish General Hamilton was taken prisoner amid the fighting, part of the last rally on the slopes near Donore.

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those musquctecrs to the route, and advanc'd farther into the field in battalia. Here the brave old Duke Shomberg was kill'd, and Dr. Walker and Coll. Callemott mortally wounded. The enemy advanc'd towards us and made a brisk effort upon us, but we soon repell'd them with considerable loss on theyr side. They made two other attempts on us, but were still bravely beaten back; and when our horse of the left cameupp the enemy quite quitted that field, having left several dead bodyes behind them. 'Twas there we tooke Lieut.-General Hamilton. The enemye's horse of Tireconnell's regiment behav'd themselves well; but our Dutch like angells. The K. charged in person at the head of the Inniskilleners, and expos'd himself with undaunted bravery."
The royal memoirs thus confirm the view which wehave taken of the admirable generalship of William in causing a diversion of the centre and left of the Irish army before he attempted to cross the Boyne. " As for what pass'd at Oldbridge it seems the enemie, perceiving the left wing and most of the foot had marched after Lauzune, attacked the regiment which was at the village of Oldbridge."

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

Lord Netterville's tea-house atop the Dowth mound

Dowth · townland · Meath · 1847

The mound of Dowth was topped with a modern tea-house built by the eccentric Lord Netterville, chosen for its commanding view over Meath, prior to the 1847 excavation of the site.

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Within view of New Grange, and about a mile distant, seated on one of the higher slopes upon the Boyne's bank, the third great cone of the group attracts our attention, — Dubhadh, or Dowth, — the accompanying view of which was taken prior to the examination of this rath in 1 847- Although not so broad at the base as New Grange, it was more conical ; the building on the top was a modern structure, a tea-house erected by the late eccentric Lord Netterville ; and, certainly, although his knowledge or love for antiquities may be questioned, there can be no doubt of his having chosen a spot from whence could be obtained one of the noblest prospects in Meath. A circle of

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 123

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here is the great mound of Dowth, the third great cone in the group on the Boyne, within view of Newgrange. Before it was examined in 1847, the top of the mound carried a modern tea-house, erected by the late eccentric Lord Netterville. Whatever his knowledge or love for antiquities, he chose a spot with one of the noblest prospects in Meath.

Passage of the Boyne Commences at Oldbridge

Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690

With the left wing of the Irish army already engaged two miles away at Rossnaree, William judged the moment auspicious and commenced the main crossing of the Boyne at Oldbridge at half-past ten in the morning, leading his troops against the remaining Irish forces.

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latter, and pressing to get between it and Duleek, and so cut olF the retreat towards Dublin ; and then it was (for William was informed, by express, of Douglas having made good his position) that the passage of the Boyne at Oldbridge was commenced, at half-past ten o'clock, a. m., while this left wing of the Irish army was already engaged two miles off with the division under Douglas and Count Schomberg.
" The Irish Journal," a Williamite authority, makes the amount of the army which passed at Eossnaree much more than Avhat Story states. It says, " General Douglas was sent with 12,000 foot and 5000 horse, to a ford further up the river by Slane, where had been a battery of the Irish, but they were drawn off, and only 800 dragoons guarded the ford. The English were to go down a steep hill to the ford, and an uneven way, yet the Irish dragoons only once fired, and retreated to the body of their army, which lay towards Duleek."

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 150

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, on the first of July 1690, William commenced the main passage of the Boyne at Oldbridge, at half-past ten in the morning. The left wing of the Irish army was already engaged two miles off with the division under Douglas and Count Schomberg. William had been informed by express that Douglas had made good his position, pressing to get between the Irish army and Duleek, so to cut off the retreat towards Dublin. With that news, the crossing began. The Irish Journal, a Williamite authority, gives more detail about what happened upriver. General Douglas was sent with 12,000 foot and 5,000 horse to a ford further up the river by Slane, where the Irish had kept a battery. They were drawn off, and only 800 dragoons guarded the ford. The English had to go down a steep hill to the ford, on uneven ground, yet the Irish dragoons only fired once and retreated to the body of their army, which lay towards Duleek.

Retreat converges at Duleek bridge

Duleek · town · Meath · 1690

The Irish left wing reached the pass of Duleek 'untouched,' bringing five of their six guns, and made a stand first on the common north of the village and then defended the bridge over the Nanny Water for several hours.

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It was now long past mid-day, the fierce conflict at Oldbridge, generally styled the " Battle of the Boyne," had raged for several hours, the sun waned in his path, and the victory already attained, almost without a blow, by the army of Douglas, was crowned by the retreat of the entire Irish force under the Duke of Berwick and Lord Tyrconnel. From Donore Hill to Duleek, a distance of about three miles, where the first natural obstacle presents in the deep sedgy stream of the Nanny Water, a succession of hills slope from the high grounds above the right or southern bank of the Boyne in a somewhat triangular form. The base of this triangle is the Boyne, between Oldbridge and Rossnaree, from which latter theretreat under James and Lauzun first commenced, and its apex, the little bridge which spans the Nanny at the village of Duleek. The sides of this triangle mark the two lines of the retreat. The high road from Duleek to Donore by the hill of Cruzrath (from which latter a good view of the whole scene may be obtained) marks pretty accurately the eastern line of theretreat. The left wing of the Irish, having succeeded in reaching the pass of Duleek " untouched," and bringing with them five of theirsix guns, long before the English right had come up, here stood, first upon the common which surrounds the village upon the north, where some stand was made, and then, falling back behind the river, they defended the bridge for several hours, until the centre and left wing, which had been beaten at Donore, rushed down upon them in confusion, hotly pursued by their opponents. While the pass of Duleek was retained by the Irish and French, King James, accompanied by a troop of horse, fled to Dublin, which he reached about ten o'clock, so that he must have left his army about five or six o'clock in the afternoon, probably Avhen the retreating, or rather the flying army from Donore appeared in sight. Then, for the first time on that memorable day, the entire of the two armies stood opposed, but how diflferent their situations may be gleamed from the foregoing details. Some

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 153

Sir Arthur Aston's house and King James's stay before Donore

Drogheda · town · Louth · 1649–1690

In one of the old wooden bird-cage houses in Drogheda it is said Sir Arthur Aston, Governor of the town during Cromwell's siege, resided, and tradition says King James slept there the night he arrived before encamping at Donore.

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This town contained, according to the last Census, 17,300 inhabitants. In its sunken position within the last defile of the valley of the Boyne, with its narrow, tortuous streets, many of which are ascended by steps, and the number of tall spires and ancient ruins which rise out of the jumble of houses, it bears a resemblance to many continental towns. It is a place of considerable trade; and in the river, below the narrow bridge, the last upon the Boyne, and the only one in Drogheda, may often be seen as many steamers as Ave find in the LifFey. Up to a very recent period several wooden or bird-cage houses, like those in Chester and some of the old English towns, existed in Drogheda. In one of these it is said Sir Arthur Aston, Governor of this town at the time of Cromwell's siege, resided, and in this house ti'adition says King James slejit the night he arrived in Drogheda, before he encamped at Donore.
Fi'om time immemorial Drogheda has been noted for its ecclesiastical establishments, and the riiins of several still remain ; but they are, generally speaking, scarcely approachable, owing to the quantity of filth by which they are surrounded. The most remarkable of these ecclesiastical ruins is that shown in the accompanying illustration, the Abbey or Church of St. Mary, which spans a dirty lane, now principally used as a stable-yard, behind the upper end of West-street.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 173

As the companion tells it

As the road comes into Drogheda, you are entering a town that the last census counted at 17,300 people. It sits in a sunken position within the last defile of the valley of the Boyne, with narrow, twisting streets, many of them climbed by steps, and tall spires and ancient ruins rising from the jumble of houses. It has been compared to continental towns. There is considerable trade here, and below the single bridge over the Boyne, steamers can be seen as often as on the Liffey. Up to a very recent period, several wooden houses stood in Drogheda, the kind called bird-cage houses, like those in Chester and some old English towns. In one of these it is said Sir Arthur Aston resided. He was Governor of the town at the time of Cromwell's siege. Tradition says King James slept in that same house the night he arrived in Drogheda, before he encamped at Donore. From time immemorial Drogheda has been noted for its ecclesiastical establishments, and the ruins of several still remain. They are generally scarcely approachable, owing to the quantity of filth around them. The most remarkable is the Abbey or Church of St. Mary, which spans a lane behind the upper end of West Street.

Stone basins or sarcophagi in the recesses

Newgrange · townland · Meath · 1699–1724

Each recess of the New Grange chamber contains an oval, slightly hollowed stone basin resembling a primitive sarcophagus, one of which sits within a larger shallower basin. Llhwyd's 1699 account found only loose stones and animal bones, while Molyneux later described unburned human bones and a pyramid-shaped stone on the floor.

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mids; but the type and purpose in all is the same. From Llhwyd's description we learn, that when New Grange was examined in 1 699, it was found much in the same state which it now presents ; that " under foot there were nothing but loose stones of every size, in confusion, and amongst them a great many bones of beasts, and some pieces of deei''s horns." Neither in this account, nor in that published in Boate's Natural History of Ireland, doeshe make any mention, either that "the bones of two dead bodies, entire, not burned, were found upon the floor, in all likelihood the relics of a husband and his wife, whose conjugal aifection had joined them in their grave as in their bed!" as related twenty-five years afterwards by Molyneux; nor of the "slender quarry-stone, five or six feet long, shaped like a pyramid," which the latter author states lay on the floor. That these rude bowls or typical urns originally contained human remains, we have little doubt; but from a careful examination of the authorities which refer to the accidental opening of New Grange, at the end of the seventeenth century, we feel convinced that this monument had been examined long prior to that date; and, therefore, we derive little information from modern writings as to what its original condition was. That the Danes were well aware that these tumuli contained caverns, and probably knowing that gold and treasure was to be found within them, rifled several of those ancient sepulchres, we have undoubted authority; for in the Annals of Ulster we read the following memorable account of an instance of this description ; and although New Grange (which, as already stated, is a mere modern name, which gives no reference either to its use or locality) is not specified, it may fairly be inferred that it formed one of the group of the Boyne pyramids rifled by the plundering Northmen, A. D. 862. " The cave of Achadh Aldai, and of Cnodhba (Knowth), and the cave of the sepulchre of Boadan, over Dubhad (Dowth), and the cave of the wife of Gobhan (at Drogheda), Avas searched by the Danes — quod antea non perfectum e-'<t — on one occasion, that the three kings, Amlaff, Imar, and Auisle, were plundering the territory of Flann, the son of Conaing." The Annals of the Four Masters thus record the same circumstance : " The cave of Achadh Aldai in Mughdhorna-Maighen [Breagh] ; the cave of Cnoghbhai ; the cave of the grave of Bodan, i. e. the shepherd of Elcmar over Du-

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 121

Tara as the crowning place of kings

Tara · parish · Meath

Tara is described as containing the Lia Fail (oracular stone) and grassy mounds, serving as the crowning place of Irish kings, forum of sages, and banqueting hall of nobles at least eighteen centuries earlier.

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Tara, with its Lia Fail, or oracular stone, and its grassy mounds, stands alone, the crowning place of its kings, the forum of the sages, and the banqueting hall of the nobles of Erin, at least eighteen centuries ago. Then follow the early Christian buildings, the oratories and small missionary churches, sculptured crosses, carved fonts, and round towers, as at Monasteroris, Clonard, Donaghmore, and St. Eark, till such primitive buildings rose into the more stately edifices, churches, and monasteries of Slane, Trim, Bective, and Drogheda. The baronial halls of the Anglo-Normans and proud castles of the Pale stretching along its banks, and commanding every ford and pass, — as at Carbery, Trim, Athlumny, Dunmoe, and Castle- Dexter, — mark another era, and tell of the extended sway of the De Lacys, Husseys, Berminghams, Plunkets, Cusacks, Barnwells, Flemings, Prestons, Petits, Tuites, D'Arcys, and other English chieftains, from the time of the invasion to the age of Elizabeth. Although we do not find
* For a description of the Firbolys and Tuatha De Danaans see the etlmological inquiry at the end of tliis voUmic, after the account of Dowth.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 16

The Boyne Obelisk and its inscriptions

Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690–1736

An obelisk was erected to commemorate King William's crossing of the Boyne on 1 July 1690, with the first stone laid by Lionel Sackville, Duke of Dorset, in 1736. The Corporation of Drogheda used to pay an annual visit to the obelisk to commemorate the battle.

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" Sacred to the glorious memory of King William the Third, M-ho, on the 1st of July, 1690, crossed the Boyne near this place to attack James the Second at the head of a Popish army advantageously posted on tlie south side of it, and did on that day, by a successful battle, secure to us and our posterity our liberty, laws, and religion. In consequence of this action James the Second left this kingdom and fled to France. This memorial of our deliverance was erected in the ninth year of the reign of King George the Second, the first stone being laid by Lionel Sackville, Duke of Dorset, Lord Lieutenant of the kingdom of Ireland, muccxxxvi.
" In perpetuam rei tarn fortiter quam feliciter gesta; memoriam,

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 156

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, close to Oldbridge, an obelisk once stood commemorating King William the Third's crossing of the Boyne on the 1st of July, 1690. The inscription on it declared that William crossed the river near this spot to attack James the Second, who was posted on the south side with a Popish army, and by a successful battle secured what the stone called "our liberty, laws, and religion." After that fight, James fled the kingdom for France. The first stone of the memorial was laid by Lionel Sackville, Duke of Dorset, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, in 1736, during the ninth year of King George the Second's reign. The Corporation of Drogheda used to come out here each year to commemorate the battle.

The Pale boundary ditch enacted at Drogheda Parliament

Drogheda · town · Louth · 1494

In 1494 a Parliament held at Drogheda passed an act requiring inhabitants of the marches of four shires (Dublin, Kildare, Meath, Louth) to build a double ditch six feet high to protect against Irish incursions, with commissioners named for each shire.

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From the Statute of Kilkenny, lately published by Mr. Ilardiman, in the Irish Archaeological Society's publications, we learn in a note by that learned author, that " in the reign of Henry VII. the inlluence of theEnglish extended little farther than four counties; and so straitened were they that it was found necessary to protect them from the incursions of the Irish by a ditch raised along the borders of the Pale. For this pvirpose an Act was passed in the celebrated Parliament held at Drogheda in A. D. 1494. As this curious Act has been passed over in silence by Cox, andhas never been printed, I take the following extract from the original roll, preserved in the Rolls Office, Dublin: ' As the marches of four shires lie open and not fensible in fastness of ditches and castles, by which Irishmen do great hvirt in preying the same : it is enacted that every inhabitant, earth-tiller, and occupier in said marches, i. e. in the county of Dublin, from the water of Anliffy to the mountain in Kildare, from the water of Anliffy to Trim, and so forth to Meath and Uriel, as said marches are made and limitted by an Act of Parliament, held by William Bishop of Meath, do build
* See some notices of the castle of Trim, collecteil fioiii various authorities ; 1840.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 22

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Drogheda, you are in the town where a Parliament met in 1494 and passed an act to build a ditch along the borders of the Pale. In the reign of Henry the Seventh, English influence extended little farther than four counties. They were so straitened that they needed protection from the incursions of the Irish, and for that purpose this act was passed at the Parliament held here in Drogheda. The act itself had been passed over in silence by Cox and never printed. The original roll was preserved in the Rolls Office in Dublin. The act states that the marches of four shires lay open and were not fensible in the fastness of ditches and castles, by which Irishmen did great hurt in preying upon them. It was enacted that every inhabitant, earth-tiller, and occupier in those marches should build the ditch. The marches ran from the water of Anliffy to the mountain in Kildare, from the water of Anliffy to Trim, and so forth to Meath and Uriel, as the marches were made and limited by an Act of Parliament held by William, Bishop of Meath.

The Round Tower of Slane Burned by the Danes

Slane · townland · Meath · 948

A cloictheach, or round tower, once stood at Slane, likely on the site of the present ecclesiastical ruins. It was destroyed by the Danes of Dublin in the tenth century, burning its relics, people, and a renowned bell.

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A cloictheach, or round tower, formerly existed at Slane, and probably stood on the site of the present ecclesiastical ruins, where it must have formed an object of surpassing beauty. It was destroyed by the Danes of Dublin, about the middle of the tenth century. It is alluded to in a great many of the ancient records; the following is, perhaps, the fullest, and at the same time the most intelligible notice of it to the popular reader : " A. D. 948. The cloictheach of Slane was burned by the Danes, Avith its full of reliques and good people, with Caoinechair, reader of Slane, and the crosier of the jaatron saint, and a bell, the best of hells.'''' An abbey of canons regular was founded here at a very early date, and Archdall (who was rector of Slane) informs xis, on the authority of Mezeray's History of France, that it " was remarkable for being many years the residence of a royal prince; for we find that, in the year 653,
182 ANCIENT TOMB AT SLANE.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 110

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Slane, a round tower once stood, a cloictheach, likely on the ground of the ecclesiastical ruins you can still see. It must have been a thing of surpassing beauty. The Danes of Dublin destroyed it about the middle of the tenth century. The old records tell of it again and again, and this one is perhaps the fullest: in 948, the cloictheach of Slane was burned by the Danes, with its full of reliques and good people, with Caoinechair, reader of Slane, and the crosier of the patron saint, and a bell, the best of bells. An abbey of canons regular was founded here at a very early date. Archdall, who was rector of Slane, tells us, on the authority of Mezeray's History of France, that the place was remarkable for being many years the residence of a royal prince, for we find that in the year 653

The War of Caimin, sparked at Ath-truim

Trim · town · Meath

A war called the War of Caimin arose after the Treasurer of Meath's son struck Mac Fforais (Bermingham's son) on the nose in the great court of the town of Ath-truim, prompting Bermingham to ally with O'Conor Ffaly and go to war, burning much of Meath.

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this name urose is peculiar and worthy of remark. Pierce De Bermingham was one of the early English settlers, and received a large grant of land in Leinstei'. The surname was dropped by the Irish-speaking people, and the Christian name, Pierce, or Peter, translated into Gaelic, as Horish, or Feorais, a name which the descendants of the Berminghams still l)ear to the present day. The Clan- Feorais — the tribe-name of the family of Bermingham— applied the Irish appellation to their territory, which was coextensive with the barony of Carbury, and extended along the Boyne, both in Kildare and King's County, as far as the borders of Meath.* In process of time this Anglo-Norman stock became more Irish than the Irish themselves ; they joined with the O'Conors of Oflfally, and other Irish chieftains, and made fierce war upon the English settlers within the Pale at different times. We have an account of the cause of one of these wars, given us by Dudley Firbisse: "That warr was called the ivarr of caivmi, that is, an abuse that was given to the son of the Chiefe of the Berminghams (Hibernice, to Mac Ffeorais, his son), in the great court in the town of Ath-truim, by the Thresurer of Meath, i. e. the Barnwall's sonn, so that he did beate a caimin (i. e. a stroke of his finger) upon the nose of IMac Fforais, or Bermingham's son, Avhich deede he was not worthy of, and he entering on the Earle of Ormond safe guard; so that he stole afterwards out of the town, and Avent towards O'Conor Ffaly, and joined together ; and it is hard to know that ever was such abuse better revenged than the said Caimin ; and thence came the notable word [Cogadh an Caimin).'''''^ During this war the Berminghams and O'Conors " preyed and burnt a greate part of Meath."
Sir John de Bermingham, Earl of Louth, founded an abbey in the year 1325, for conventual Franciscans, at Totmoy, in Offaly, the ancient name of this territory ; and from the Irish name of this chieftain it was called Monaster-Feoris. In 1511,

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 29

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is Trim, the town the old records call Ath-truim, and it was here that a war began over a insult to a nose. Pierce de Bermingham was one of the early English settlers who received a large grant of land in Leinster. The Irish-speaking people dropped his surname and translated his Christian name into Gaelic as Feorais, a name his descendants still bear. The family territory, known as the Clan-Feorais, was coextensive with the barony of Carbury and stretched along the Boyne through Kildare and King's County to the borders of Meath. In time this Anglo-Norman family became more Irish than the Irish themselves. They joined with the O'Conors of Offally and other Irish chieftains and made fierce war on the English settlers within the Pale. Dudley Firbisse gave an account of how one of these wars started. He said that war was called the War of Caimin, that is, an abuse given to the son of the chief of the Berminghams, in the great court in the town of Ath-truim, by the Treasurer of Meath's son, the Barnwall's son. He beat a caimin, a stroke of his finger, upon the nose of Mac Fforais, Bermingham's son. The deed was one he was not worthy of, and he had entered under the Earl of Ormond's safeguard. Bermingham stole afterwards out of the town, went towards O'Conor Ffaly, and they joined together. It is hard to know that ever such abuse was better revenged than that caimin, and from it came the notable name, Cogadh an Caimin. During this war the Berminghams and O'Conors preyed and burnt a great part of Meath.

Archbishop Ussher's residence and death at Termonfeckin

Termonfeckin · town · Louth · 1617

Termonfeckin was long the country residence of the Archbishops of Armagh, and the last occupant of it was the learned Ussher, who died there in 1617.

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To those who have sufScient time to spare, after visiting Mellifont and Monasterboice, we would recommend an excursion to Termonfechen, a very noted locality, still containing some objects of antiquarian interest, within little more than three miles of Drogheda, upon the northern or Louth side of the Boyne. The ruins of its ancient castle are worthy of inspection, and there are many associations of historic value connected with its origin and annals. As its name implies, it was the termon or herenach land of St. Feichin, who flourished in the seventh century. Donough 0' Carroll, the founder of Mellifont, also established " the first church of Termann Feichin." This place was long the country residence of the Archbishops of Armagh, and the last occupant of it was the learned Ussher, who died here in 1617. Originally there existed a considerable town here, situated on the small stream adjoining, and near which the Dundalk Eailway now runs. The present church is crowded with monuments of the M'Clintocks, Brabazons, Pentlands, and other families that are or have been resident in the vicinity. In the churchyard is an ancient sculptured stone cross worthy of inspection.*
Leaving the field of Oldbridge, Mellifont, and Monasterboice, and passing down the left bank of the river, we now approach

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 171

Cahir O'Conor slain near Monastery; siege by Earl of Surrey

Monasteroris · townland · Offaly

Cahir O'Conor, Lord of Offaly, was slain near this Monastery, which was a place of considerable strength and sustained a lengthened siege by the Earl of Surrey during his expedition against the O'Moores of Leix. At the suppression of religious houses it was granted to Nicholas Herbert.

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Cahir O'Conor, Lord of OfFaly, was slain near this Monastery. It was a place of considerable strength, as the remains of the building still testify, and sustained a lengthened siege by the Earl of Surrey, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, when he marched into Offaly at the time of his expedition against the O'Moores of Leix, who, with other Irish chieftains, had invaded the borders of the Pale.* At the time of the suppression of religious houses it Avas granted to Nicholas Herbert.
Following the road which leads from Edenderry to Clonard, we again cross the Boyne, and re-enter Kildare, at the little bridge ofKinnaiad, — Cecmn-athu-fada, " the head of the long ford," — where the river is still inconsiderable, but the streaniAvay has been widened, and its banks straightened, so that it here resembles a small modern canal. On crossing the bridge Ave get a view of the castle of Kinnafad, another stronghold of theBerminghams, Avhich stands in an adjoining meadow, and of which the accompanying is a faithful sketch.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 30

Carrowmore cairns and stone circles near Sligo

Carrowmore · townland · Sligo · 1838

Dr. Petrie detailed to the Royal Irish Academy in 1838 an account of a remarkable collection of cairns, cromlechs, and stone circles at Carrowmore near Sligo, all containing human remains, which he associated with battles between the Firbolgs and Tuatha De Danaan.

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of the celebrated battle fought on the plains of Moy Turey, in the county of Sligo, Avhen Nuada Airgeat Lamh, the king of the Tuatha De Danaan, completely routed the Belga? or Firbolgs, a vast number of whom are said to have been slain ; and on that battle-field, the Marathon of Irish history, we have still remaining the tumuli or barrows erected over the remains of our early Pagan progenitors. Dr. Petrie detailed to the Academy, in the year 1 838, an account of a most remarkable collection of cairns, cromlechs, and stone circles, at Carrowmore, in the vicinity of Sligo, all containing human remains. " Such monuments," he stated, " are found in all the battlefields recorded in Irish history, as the scene of con test between the Belgians or Firbolgs and the Tuatha De Danaan colonies, and he considers these monuments to be the tombs of the Belgians, who, after their defeat in the battle of southern Moy- Thuree, had retreated to Cuil-Iorra, and were there again defeated, and their king Eochy slain in crossing the strand of Ballysadare bay, on which a cairn rising above high water still marks the spot on which he fell." To these Tuatha De Danaan, or metal workers, we are inclined to assign a Celtic origin, and to their art and ingenuity to attribute the workmanship of those beautiful bronze or antique-metal ornaments and weapons, formed by a mixture of copper and tin, so generally found over the face of the cotmtry, and now swelling our national collection at the Royal Irish Academy.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 134

Dermot Mac Murrough sacks Clonard, 1170

Clonard · town · Meath · 1170

Clonard was sacked and plundered by Dermot Mac Murrough and his English allies in 1170, though English settlers later located themselves in the town and rebuilt some of its edifices.

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Ireland, even to his skin, and leave him in that situation ; and amongst other outrages, they sacrilegiously took from the vestry of this abbey a sword, which had belonged to St. Finian, the founder." It was sacked and plundered by Dermot Mac Murrough, and his English allies, in 1 1 70. The English settlers appear, however, subsequently to have located themselves in the town of Clonard, which must then have been considerable, and they are even mentioned as having rebuilt some of the edifices. Besides the abbey of Regular Canons, there was also a nunnery, endowed by O'Melaghlin,* to which, in after times, immense revenues and very extensive lands were attached.
In 1206, Simon Rochford, an Englishman, — for English ecclesiastics ruled in Ireland then, as well as now, — who assumed the title of Bishop of Meath, removed the episcopal chair from Clonard to Newtown, near Trim, where he founded the celebrated abbey of Augustinian Monks. Clonard is frequently mentioned in the Annals of the Four Masters, and all the ecclesiastical histories of Ireland, and some of the most distinguished Irish prelates are said to have been buried there.f There was also a castle at Clonard, erected by Hugh de Lacy, but, unless Ticroghan be the spot, even its foundations have long since been obliterated.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 43

As the companion tells it

Coming up now is Clonard, a town in Meath with a long ecclesiastical history. In 1170, Dermot Mac Murrough and his English allies sacked and plundered the town. Among their outrages, they took from the vestry of the abbey a sword that had belonged to St. Finian, the founder. English settlers later established themselves in Clonard, which must then have been considerable, and they rebuilt some of its edifices. Besides the abbey of Regular Canons, there was a nunnery endowed by O'Melaghlin, to which immense revenues and extensive lands were attached in later times. In 1206, Simon Rochford, an Englishman who assumed the title of Bishop of Meath, removed the episcopal chair from Clonard to Newtown near Trim. Hugh de Lacy erected a castle here, but unless Ticroghan be the spot, even its foundations have long been obliterated. Clonard appears frequently in the Annals of the Four Masters, and some of the most distinguished Irish prelates are said to have been buried there.

Edward Llhwyd's 1699 Description of New Grange

Newgrange · townland · Meath · 1699

The Welsh antiquary Edward Llhwyd, writing from Sligo in 1699, gave the earliest known description of New Grange as a very singular monument, a mount or barrow near Drogheda.

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When this opening was first discovered it is now difficult to say. Sir Thomas Molyneux, who is generally, but erroneously, supposed to have first described this monument, states that the opening was accidentally discovered, by removing some of the stones to make a pavement in the neighbourhood. The earliest describer of New Grange was Edward Llhwyd, the Welsh antiquary, and keeper of the Ashmolean Museum, in Oxford, who, in a letter, dated Sligo, I2th March, 1699, and published by Rowlands, in his "• Mona Antiqua Restaurata," gave the following account of it, which we quote, the more particularly as he evidently had examined it carefully, and in order that its present state may be compared with its condition 150 years ago* " I also met with one monument in this kingdom, very singular ; it stands at a place called New Grange, near Drogheda, and is a mount, or barrow, of very
* Although the Mo7ia A?ifi(jiia Rcstuvrata was jiublislied in Dublin, in 1 723, the letter bears the date wliich we have mentioned above. In " the collection of such papers as were communicated to the Eoyal Society, referring to some curiosities in Ireland," we find a paraphrase of Mr. Llhwyd's Essay, printed here in 1726, but much less full, or explicit, than the original. Molyneux's accoimt was printed in his Discourse concerning Danish Mounds, Forts, and Towers in Ireland, first published in 1725. It is, therefore, evident that the original describer was Llhwyd. See also Philosophical Transactions, vol. v. p. 694 ; Governor Pownal's Description in ArchaBologia II. ; Higgins's Celtic Druids ; jMiss Beaufort's Essay, in Transactions of the Roj'al Irish Academy ; Petric in Irish Penny .Journal ; Sir R. C. Hoar's Tour in Ireland, &c. &c.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 115

Ginkle repulsed in the bridle road near the ford

Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690

At a lane or small bridle road to the left of the ford, which still exists, Ginkle met a serious repulse and was forced to retreat until aided by Colonel Levison and Sir Albert Cunningham's troops, who took up positions in a hedge and farmhouse.

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Meath bank of tlie river, and being nearly all cut to pieces in their endeavour to return. Sir John Hanmer's brigade " were so valliantly attacked in front by Hamilton's horse that they were forced to retreat, and some of them to cross the river again."* As the Irish fell back, retreating up the hill towards Donore, they suddenly halted, and so furiously turned upon their opponents that the vaunted courage of the Enniskilleners quailed before them, although at the moment William himself led on that body, and His Majesty, being left upwards of a hundred yards in advance of his men, was thus exposed to most imminent danger. In the subsequent charge some of Schomberg's horse took those two standards of the Irish which are still preserved among the trophies in the chapel of the Royal Hospital of Kilmainham.f At another part of the field, in the lane or small bridle road (which still exists) to the left of the ford, Ginkle met with a serious repulse, " being overpowered there and also forced to retreat," till aided by the troops of Colonel Levison and Sir Albert Cunningham, who lined the hedge bordering the lane, and also possessed themselves of a farm-house adjoining, when a fierce conflict for some time took place, Ginkle, it is said, continuing "• in the rear of his men, endeavonring to make them Iceep their ground^ The last rally made by the Irish on the slopes near the summit of Donore was under Hamilton, who being wounded in the head and taken prisoner immediately after, the action may be said to have ceased, and the retreat from Oldbridge then began. Upon being led up to King William, in whose very presence he was captured, and who regarded him as a renegade, and being asked whether he thought the Irish would fight any more, he pledged his honour that they would, where-
* Life of King William III. already cited, p. 270.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 153

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Oldbridge, in 1690, there was a lane or small bridle road to the left of the ford that still exists today. It was there that Ginkle met with a serious repulse, being overpowered and forced to retreat, until the troops of Colonel Levison and Sir Albert Cunningham came to his aid. They lined the hedge bordering the lane and took possession of a farmhouse adjoining it. A fierce conflict followed, with Ginkle said to be in the rear of his men, endeavouring to make them keep their ground. This was part of the wider fighting around Oldbridge, where Sir John Hanmer's brigade was so valiantly attacked in front by Hamilton's horse that they were forced to retreat, some of them crossing the river again. The Irish, as they fell back up the hill towards Donore, suddenly halted and turned so furiously on their opponents that even the Enniskilleners quailed, though William himself led that body and was left upwards of 100 yards in advance of his men, exposed to great danger. The last rally was made by Hamilton on the slopes near the summit of Donore. He was wounded in the head and taken prisoner, and the retreat from Oldbridge began.

Irish cannon positions near Oldbridge and Yellow Island

Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690

King James's twelve field-pieces were placed on two elevations commanding the fords near Oldbridge village, one south of the village and another opposite Yellow Island, the latter site later marked by a fir plantation.

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King James's army, having fallen back towards Leinster, passed through Drogheda, and occupied the northern face of the hill of Donore, and the sloping ground between that elevation and the fords near Oldbridge, within the sweep of the river already alluded to. The Irish cannon, then consisting of twelve field-pieces, were planted upon two elevations commanding the fords, one a little to the south of Oldbridge village, which was here intersected by narrow lanes ; the other nearly opposite the Yellow Island, on some projecting hillocks in advance of the right of the Irish lines ; the latter place is now marked by a fir plantation. According to Story's map, a third small battery was placed opposite the ford, near the Mattock river. Some temporary, and it would appear very inefficient breast-works were also thrown iip in front of the village, which was chiefly occupied by the Irish soldiery under Tirconnell.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 145

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, King James's twelve field-pieces were planted on two elevations commanding the fords of the Boyne in 1690. One battery stood a little south of Oldbridge village, the other on projecting hillocks opposite Yellow Island, on the right of the Irish lines. That second site is now marked by a fir plantation. James's army had fallen back through Drogheda and occupied the ground between the hill of Donore and the river. According to Story's map, a third small battery sat opposite the ford near the Mattock river. Temporary breastworks were thrown up in front of the village, which was held by Irish soldiery under Tirconnell.

Muiredach's Cross erected by Abbot Muiredach

Monasterboice · townland · Louth · 850–924

The second cross at Monasterboice, known locally as St. Boyne's or Buithe's Cross, bears an Irish inscription recording that it was erected by the Abbot Muiredach, dating its creation to between the mid-ninth and early tenth century.

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'• A prayer for Muredach, by whom this cross was made."
So that its erection is to be assigned to a period not earlier than the middle of the ninth, or later than the beginning of the tenth century. " The sacrilegiovis hands which attempted the ruin of the others appear to have spared this, and it stands almost as perfect as when, nearly nine centuries ago, the artist, we may suppose, pronounced his work finished, and chiefs and abbots, bards, shanachies, warriors, ecclesiastics, and perhaps many a rival sculptor, crowded round this very spot, full of wonder and admiration for what they must have considered

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 169

O'Neills and O'Donnells plunder Navan in 1539

Navan · town · Meath · 1539

According to the Annals of the Four Masters, in 1539 the O'Neills and O'Donnells plundered Meath as far as Tara, utterly plundering the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail (Navan), taking immense spoils of gold, silver, and goods.

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The original name of Navan was Nuachongbhail. The Annals of the Four Masters aiford us an account of a great plundering of Meath, as far as Tara, by the O'Neills and O'Donnells, in the year 1539: " They obtained immense and innumerable spoils on this expedition, for the Irish had not in latter times assembled to oppose the English army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this plundering army; for many were spoils of gold and silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods and valuables, besides what they took from the towns of Ardee and Nuachongbhail, which they utterly plundered on that expedition."* When Lord Justice Leonard heard of this, he collected all the English forces in Ireland, and pursuing the invaders came up with them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued, in which the Irish were completly routed.f
A branch of the Dublin and Drogheda Railway has lately been extended to this place ; it crosses the Boyne upon a series of arches immediately below Athlumney Castle, and in the

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 84

As the companion tells it

This is Navan, a town the road passes through. Its old name was Nuachongbhail, and in 1539 it was hit hard by the O'Neills and O'Donnells. The Annals of the Four Masters say they plundered Meath as far as Tara, and utterly plundered the towns of Ardee and Navan, taking immense spoils of gold, silver, copper, iron, and every sort of goods. The annals record that the Irish had not in latter times assembled an army that destroyed more of the property of Meath than this one. When Lord Justice Leonard heard of it, he gathered all the English forces in Ireland and pursued the invaders, catching them at Ballahoe in Farney, where a battle ensued and the Irish were completely routed.

Plunder and burning of Castle Carbury, 1546

Carbury · townland · Kildare · 1546

In 1546 the plains of Cairbre and Castle Carbury were plundered and burned by Irish insurgents including the O'Kelly's, O'Maddens, and O'Conors, prompting a punitive campaign by the Lord Justice.

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by that chieftain, his captor and kinsman, to Castle Carbiiry, together with several of the English nobles and ecclesiastics. The celebrated Red Hugh O'Donnel, when laying waste Meath and Leinster in 1475, " demolished and burned Castle Carbury and Ballynieyler." So late as 1546 we read that "the plains of Cairbre and Castle Carbury were plundered and burned" by some of the Irish insurgents, particularly the O'Kelly's, the O'Maddens, and O'Conors. The mode in which this outrage was punished by the high legal functionary of the Government is highly characteristic of the time. " When," .say the Annals, " the Lord Justice, Anthony St. Ledger, heard of this, he came into OfFaly and i^lundered and burned the country as far as the Togher of Cruoghan ;" and again, " the Lord Justice came a second time into OfFaly, and remained fifteen days in the country, plundering and spoiling it, burning churches and monasteries, and destroying crops and corn." These notices, from authentic history, afford us some idea of the state of this country in the middle of the sixteenth centviry ; and of the mode taken by its governors to suppress crime, and to gain the affections of the Irish chiefs and people. The modern part of the present castle must have been erected long since these days, probably in 1548, and appears to have fallen gradually into decay. After the Berminghams it passed into the possession of the Cowleys, an English family, the great ancestors of the Duke of Wellington.* From whatever side we approach, it
* The Hero of Waterloo boasts that he has uot a drop of Irish or Milesian blood in his veins, and so far as the old Irish stock is concerned, he certainly has not (except perhaps a slight collateral rill through the Cusacks of Cushinstown), no more than many other noblemen and gentlemen connected with Ireland, whom the Times calls Celts. For the following pedigree we are indebted to our learned friend, John O' Donovan :

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 28

The Mule's Leap at Carrick and its footprint legend

Carrick · townland · Offaly

Near the summit of the Hill of Carrick is pointed out 'the Mule's Leap', where a mule ran off with a saint from the Church of Carrick; eight footprint-like holes about ten yards apart are still shown, and it is said no grass ever grows upon these footprints.

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Near the summit of the hill there is pointed out " the Mule's Leap," when running off with a saint from the Church of Carrick. Eight holes, marking, it is said, the places of the mule's feet, and showing a distance of about ten yardsbetween the place from which it sprung and where it alighted, are still to be seen, and it is said that no grass ever grows upon these footprints. The locality is worth observing, not for the nonsensical story of the mule, but because there is evidence of some masonry — probably the foundation of an ancient oratory — existing between the two sets of footmarks.
As this castle still bears the local name of Candck-Oris, we have a proof stronger than conjecture that it was erected by the Berminghams. It was originally a tall, oblong square tower or keep, a portion of the southern end of which is yet perfect, measuring about thirty-two feet in length. From the extent of the ruins upon the northern side, it must have been nearly ninety feet long : the Avails are upAvards of four feet thick. This was the court of Pierce Bermingham in 1305, and consequently the seat of the " treacherous baron," so bitterly

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 34

The Yellow Tower, remnant of St. Mary's Abbey

Trim · town · Meath

The Yellow Tower, standing over 125 feet high, is believed to occupy the site of the original St. Mary's Abbey and is described as the loftiest remnant of Anglo-Norman architecture in Ireland. Local tradition holds that Cromwell battered down part of the tower, though this is unverified.

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The original abbey, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, stood, in all probability, upon the picturesque site of the Yellow Tower which in after ages was erected here, and is stated to be " the most lofty remnant of the Anglo-Norman architecture now existing in Ireland." It was originally a square steeple, or abbey tower, of gothic architecture ; it is now upwards of 1 25 feet high, and consists of one perfect and two partial walls, which, thus leaving it open on the west, exhibit a series of stories in its interior. It was, in all probability, like many of the other early monastic remains, and the round towers in particular, used as a place of security and defence ; and its great height and commanding position may have caused it to be employed as a watch-tower over the surrounding country. Although the buildings of St. Mary's Abbey adjoining have been removed, a considerable portion of their site can be traced. There is a tradition that Cromwell battered down a portion of this tower; but we do not find any further authority for this assertion than mere local history; and there is scarcely a ruin along the Boyne, from this to Drogheda,
* See some notices of the Church of St. Patrick, Trim, by the Rev. Richard Butler, Dean of Clonmacnoise.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Trim in Meath, you may catch sight of the Yellow Tower, standing upwards of 125 feet high. It likely occupies the site of the original St. Mary's Abbey, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The tower is described as the most lofty remnant of Anglo-Norman architecture now existing in Ireland. It was originally a square gothic steeple, and today it consists of one perfect wall and two partial ones, leaving it open on the west so you can see the series of stories inside. Its great height and commanding position probably made it useful as a watch-tower over the surrounding country, and like many early monastic remains and round towers, it may have served as a place of security and defence. The adjoining buildings of St. Mary's Abbey have been removed, but a considerable portion of their site can still be traced. Local tradition holds that Cromwell battered down part of the tower, though the book finds no authority for this beyond mere local history.

Ambush by ditches and houses at Oldbridge

Oldbridge · townland · Meath · 1690

The Irish laid an ambush behind ditches and houses on the far side of the water at Oldbridge, firing incessantly on William's men as they crossed the river.

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also Dr. Walker, the gallant defender of Derry, and Caillimotte received his death wound.* The third crossing was made by the Danes and Germans, at a shallow between the two principal islands, where the water must have been up to their arm-pits, while the left wing, entirely composed of cavalry, consisting chiefly of Danes and Dutch, passed or swam across opposite the eastern valley which intersects the hill of Tullyallen, and effected a landing, apparently with little opposition, at a very deep and dangerous part of the river, nearly opposite the spot where one of the Irish batteries stood the day before, and where the margin of the stream is wet and swampy. Here it was, however, that, accompanied by the Prince of Denmark, William himself, with his arm in a sling from the effects of his wound, plunged into the stream, with Colonel Woolstey, and passed with great difficulty, " for his horse was bogg'd on the other side, and he was forced to alight, till a gentleman help'd him to get his horse out." Colonel Bellingham's Journal thus continues: " He sent another detachment of horse to the left to goe over at the Mill-foord, but the tide coming in and the foord bad, the passage was very difficult, most of them being forced to swim, insomuch that they could not come upp time enough to assist our foot who went over the foord att Oldbridge about 11 of the clock. The enemy had laid an ambush behind the ditches and houses on the other side of the water, who fir'd incessantly att our men as they were passing the river; who, as soon as arriv'd on land, immediately putt
English camp. His skull is still shown in the cathedral of St. Patrick's, where Dean Swift caused a monument to be erected to him. The family vault of the Schombergs is in the cathedral of jMayence. His sword is now the charter sword of the " Friendly Brothers."

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 152

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Oldbridge, in 1690, the Irish laid an ambush behind the ditches and houses on the far side of the water, and fired incessantly on William's men as they crossed the river. The foot went over the ford at Oldbridge about 11 o'clock, and as soon as they arrived on land, the fighting was immediate. The crossings were made in several places. The third crossing was made by Danes and Germans at a shallow between the two principal islands, where the water was up to their arm-pits. The left wing, cavalry chiefly of Danes and Dutch, passed or swam across opposite the eastern valley that intersects the hill of Tullyallen, and landed at a deep and dangerous part of the river, where the margin is wet and swampy. William himself was here, his arm in a sling from a wound. Accompanied by the Prince of Denmark, he plunged into the stream with Colonel Woolstey and passed with great difficulty. His horse was bogged on the other side, and he was forced to alight until a gentleman helped him get his horse out. A detachment of horse had been sent to the left to cross at the Mill-ford, but the tide came in and the ford was bad. Most of them were forced to swim, and they could not come up in time to assist the foot at Oldbridge. Among the dead here were Dr. Walker, the gallant defender of Derry, and Caillimotte, both of whom received their death wounds.

Cellach, Abbot of Iona, takes refuge at Kells from Norwegians

Kells · town · Meath · 806

In 806, Cellach, Abbot of Iona, fled to Kells to escape Norwegian raiders and repaired or rebuilt the abbey there.

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The Annals of Kells would fill a vohime such as this ; we can here only allude to a few of the most remarkable historic events which occurred here. We already mentioned the erection of the early ecclesiastical buildings at Kells by St. Columb. It is recorded that in 806 Cellah, Abbot of lona, took refuge here from the Norwegians, and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. Numerous battles were fought, both within and on the plains around Kells, which sustained several sieges, and was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed ; its churches robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen; its abbots and monks murdered, and its soldiers and inhabitants either butchered or carried off as prisoners by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders, for ujDwards of nine hundred years. Plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death, form the chief items in the records of this ancient and most celebrated place. We read that Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to this abbey in 1108, and Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger jMortimer, and burned the town of Kells in 1315; — and thus might we occupy an entire chajster.
One of the most valuable pieces of antiquity connected with this place, and which has come down to modern times, is the celebrated Book of Kells, a most beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinitj' College.

Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 92

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Kells, you are moving through a town whose records run long. The Annals of Kells would fill a volume on their own. St. Columb erected the early ecclesiastical buildings here, and in 806 Cellach, Abbot of Iona, took refuge in Kells from the Norwegians and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. What followed across the centuries was relentless. Battles were fought within the town and on the plains around it. Kells sustained several sieges and was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed. Its churches were robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen. Its abbots and monks were murdered. Its soldiers and inhabitants were either butchered or carried off as prisoners by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders, for upwards of nine hundred years. Plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death form the chief items in the records of this place. Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to the abbey in 1108. Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger Mortimer and burned the town of Kells in 1315. One of the most valuable pieces of antiquity connected with Kells, and which has come down to modern times, is the celebrated Book of Kells, a beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinity College.

The Beauties of the Boyne, and its Tributary, the Blackwater

The stories, best first

Clonard school attracted 3000 students from across Europe

Cromwell's soldiers blamed for damage to the Great Cross

Death of Geoffrey de Geneville in the Black Friary, 1314

Dublin's alarm and rumours on the day of battle

Establishment of the fair of Tailltean

Foundation of Mellifont Abbey by O'Carroll

Founding of Mellifont Monastery

Malachy destroys rebel island fortress in Lough Ramor

O'Connell's monster meeting at Tara

Ownership passes to the Cowleys, ancestors of Wellington

Panoramic ruins of Trim seen from the Blackbull road

Public burning of a venerated crucifix at Ballybogan in 1538

Red Hugh O'Donnel burns Castle Carbury, 1475

Ruined church atop the Hill of Donore where James camped

Talbot's Castle: Sir John Talbot and later school for Wellington and Hamilton

The 1798 Croppies' Grave at Tara

The great domed chamber at New Grange compared to Mycenae

1322 Rule Against English Admission at Mellifont

Antiquities and human remains excavated at Dowth

Battlefield remains discovered at Rathcore

Bishop Erc's austere devotion in the Boyne

Bodies of Brian Boru and his son carried through Duleek after Clontarf

Brugh na Boinne, the Royal Cemetery of the Boyne

Caeilte's Battle and the Cairn of Fothadh Airgthech near Larne

Cairn marking death of King Eochy at Ballysadare Bay

Cromwell's cannon damages Trim castle tower

Crossing of the Boyne at Rossnaree Ford Near Knowth

Donough O'Carroll's Foundation of the Monastery on the Boyne

Duke of Wellington's birthplace debate: Merrion Street, Dublin

Duke of Wellington's early residence at Dangan and Trim testimonial

Edward Bruce burns Kells and defeats Mortimer

Hugh de Lacy builds the castle of Trim, c. 1173

Legend of St. Kieran and St. Columb's cross theft

Legend of the impious cake-baking woman

Legend of the witch casting the stone from Croghan Hill

Lieutenant-General Hamilton captured near the ford

Lord Netterville's tea-house atop the Dowth mound

Passage of the Boyne Commences at Oldbridge

Retreat converges at Duleek bridge

Sir Arthur Aston's house and King James's stay before Donore

Stone basins or sarcophagi in the recesses

Tara as the crowning place of kings

The Boyne Obelisk and its inscriptions

The Pale boundary ditch enacted at Drogheda Parliament

The Round Tower of Slane Burned by the Danes

The War of Caimin, sparked at Ath-truim

Archbishop Ussher's residence and death at Termonfeckin

Cahir O'Conor slain near Monastery; siege by Earl of Surrey

Carrowmore cairns and stone circles near Sligo

Dermot Mac Murrough sacks Clonard, 1170

Edward Llhwyd's 1699 Description of New Grange

Ginkle repulsed in the bridle road near the ford

Irish cannon positions near Oldbridge and Yellow Island

Muiredach's Cross erected by Abbot Muiredach

O'Neills and O'Donnells plunder Navan in 1539

Plunder and burning of Castle Carbury, 1546

The Mule's Leap at Carrick and its footprint legend

The Yellow Tower, remnant of St. Mary's Abbey

Ambush by ditches and houses at Oldbridge

Cellach, Abbot of Iona, takes refuge at Kells from Norwegians