The Beauties of the Boyne, and its Tributary, the Blackwater

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Conall's gift of his rath to St. Patrick at Donaghpatrick

   Donaghpatrick · townland · Meath

   According to the life of St. Patrick attributed to St. Evin, Conall, brother of King Loeghaire, was baptized and gave his own house or rath at Donaghpatrick to Patrick to build a church, with the outline of the cashel still visible in the graveyard.

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   troduction of Christianity. It is related in the life of St. Patrick, attributed to St. Evin, and published by Colgan in the Trias Thaumatw'ga, that Conall, the brother of King Loeghaire, who resided here, not only gladly accepted Christianity, and was baptized, but also showed great kindness to Patrick, and gave him his house or rath on which to erect a church ; and the outline of this very cashel can still be discerned in the present graveyard. The only other evidence of great antiquity now remaining here, is what appears to be a fragment of a gable tombstone similar to that still existing at Slane, of which we give a drawing, in the description of that place (p. 182). It can be seen just protruding above ground to the south of the present church.

   Upon the left of the road, as we approach the church, stands, without exception, one of the very finest raths of the military class to be seen in Ireland. It is of immense size, but, its outline being now obscured by trees and much underwood, it escaped the notice of the Ordnance surveyors, and has not been marked on the map of this part of Meath. It much resembles that at Downpatrick, consisting of a central circular mound, rising gradually out of several circumvallations, or earthen embankments, four of which can still be traced ; the great ring fort at Dowth, and the King's Rath enclosing the Forradh at Tara, and Rath Dubh at Tailtean, extend over a greater space; but of its kind there is nothing to compare with this along the Boyne or BlackAvater.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 95

2. Cromwell's battering mound behind the poor-house

   Drogheda · town · Louth · 1649

   The mound from which Cromwell battered the town of Drogheda is still shown upon the south-eastern side of the river, behind the present poor-house.

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   were also in ancient times several castles here, and the mound from which Cromwell battered the town is still shown upon the south-eastern side of the river, behind the present poorhouse.

   Several Parliaments were held in this town; the most memo-

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 173

   As the companion tells it

   Coming through Drogheda now. The mound from which Cromwell battered the town in 1649 is still shown on the south-eastern side of the river, behind the present poor-house.

3. Drogheda's Cromwellian era and ancient remains

   Drogheda · town · Louth · 1649

   The town of Drogheda is noted for the memorable era of Cromwell, with numerous military and ecclesiastical remains extending over at least a thousand years of authenticated history.

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   The town of Drogheda notes a memorable era in the time of Cromwell, and its numerous military and ecclesiastical remains extend over a period of undoubted authenticity for at least one thousand years. The site and story of the " Battle of the Boyne," on that memorable occasion when, for the last time, two kings fought tor the sovereignty of these realms, brings us down to a date almost within the memory of man; while the monster meeting at Tara, the last great effort of O'Connell and the " moral force Kepealers," occurred but a few years ago. And yet with all this we know of no river that has been more neglected by writers, and no scenery that is less known within the same distance of the metropolis, than that which the Boyne presents for the greater portion of its course. The modern writers upon Ireland have one and all carefully avoided it. Inglis encircled Ireland, but "did" the Boyne while the northern mail whirled him over the bridge of Drogheda. Barrow no sooner approached its waters than he fled from them in dismay. The " Angler in Ireland" appears to have omitted it by particular desire ; and with the exception of Mr. and Mrs. Hall's account of its appearance at Trim, it has remained unnoticed and undescribed by all modern systematic writers upon the scenery of this portion of the British dominions.

   Dr. Petrie, who first drew attention to its beauties in a short paper published in the last volume of those valuable records of Irish history, the Penny Journals, thus graphically describes a portiim of this river: "It is of a character as beautiful as coidd be found anywhere, or even be inja-

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 16

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Drogheda in Louth, you are moving through a town that remembers the era of Cromwell, a memorable chapter in its long story. Its military and ecclesiastical remains stretch back over at least one thousand years of undoubted authenticity. The Boyne flows through this place, and its banks hold the site of the Battle of the Boyne, the last occasion on which two kings fought for the sovereignty of these realms. That brings the history down to a date almost within living memory. More recently still, the monster meeting at Tara, the last great effort of O'Connell and the moral force Repealers, occurred but a few years ago. And yet the river has been neglected by writers, and its scenery is less known than anything within the same distance of the metropolis. Modern writers upon Ireland have one and all carefully avoided it. Inglis encircled Ireland but "did" the Boyne while the northern mail whirled him over the bridge of Drogheda. Barrow no sooner approached its waters than he fled from them in dismay. The Angler in Ireland appears to have omitted it by particular desire. With the exception of Mr. and Mrs. Hall's account of its appearance at Trim, it has remained unnoticed and undescribed by all modern systematic writers. Dr. Petrie first drew attention to its beauties in a short paper in the Penny Journals, describing a portion of the river as beautiful as could be found anywhere.

4. First Abbot Christian O'Conarchy becomes Bishop of Lismore

   Mellifont · townland · Louth · 1145

   Mellifont's first abbot, Christian O'Conarchy, was made Bishop of Lismore in 1145 and later Legate. He later presided at the Council of Cashel, an event which made the Irish Church dependent on that of England and Rome.

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   Its first abbot Avas Christian O'Conarchy, Avho, in 1145, was made Bishop of Lismore, and afterwards Legate, and the number of Irish bishops who Avere taken from the monks of this establishment is quite remarkable. He it was who afterwards presided at the Council of Cashel held by order of Henry II., and of Avhich Koderick O' Conor, the Irish monarch, was totally ignorant. It was then and there the Irish Church really became dependent on that of England, and consequently of Rome ; so that Ave may fairly trace the act to the influence of the first abbot of Mellifont. In 1157 a celebrated synod Avas held here by Gilla Mac Liag, generally knoAvn as Gelasius, Primate of Armagh, at Avhich Bishop O'Conarchy and Cardinal Paparo, the Pope's legate, presided. At this council there were seventeen bishops, and it Avas also honoured Avith the presence of Murtogh O'Loughlin, one of the royal family of Aileach, in Ulster, and then monarch of

   286 THE CONSECRATION OF THE ABBEY.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 164

5. Founding of Bective Abbey by Murchard O'Melaghlin

   Bective Abbey · monument · Meath · 1150–1170

   Bective Abbey, called in Irish Sendrede or 'the Old Bridge', was founded from Mellifont in the mid-twelfth century by Murchard O'Melaghlin, King of Meath, for Cistercian monks under the title Abbey de Beatitudine, dedicated to the Virgin. It was the only Cistercian building in Meath, with a rich endowment of 245 acres plus a mill and fishing weir.

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   This abbey, called in Irish Sendrede, or " the Old Bridge," Avas founded from Mellifont, in the middle of the twelfth century, by Murchard O'Melaghlin, King of Meath, for monks of the great Cistercian order,* under the title of the Abbey de Beatitudine, and dedicated to the Virgin. The endowment was remai'kably rich, the demesne consisting of 245 acres, besides a mill and fishing weir on the Boyne. The lord abbot of Bective sat as a spiritual peer in Parliament, one of the fifteen abbots then entitled to that dignity in Ireland.

   There is a remarkable historic incident attached to this ancient house. After the murder of Hugh de Lacy at Durrow, in 1 186, an account of which we gave at page 91, the body was

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 70

   As the companion tells it

   Right beside the road here is Bective Abbey, known in Irish as Sendrede, the Old Bridge. It was founded from Mellifont in the middle of the 12th century by Murchard O'Melaghlin, King of Meath, for Cistercian monks, under the title Abbey de Beatitudine, dedicated to the Virgin. The endowment was remarkably rich, 245 acres plus a mill and fishing weir on the Boyne, and it was the only Cistercian house in Meath. The lord abbot of Bective sat as a spiritual peer in Parliament, one of 15 abbots in Ireland entitled to that dignity.

6. Irish Left Wing Threatened Near Duleek

   Duleek · town · Meath · 1690

   The Irish left wing near Slane was left unprotected, and if outflanked the road to Duleek would be cut off from Dublin, leaving only the fortress of Drogheda as refuge; this strategic vulnerability shaped the course of the battle.

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   There is one point in the battle of the Boyne (Avhich we were the first to point out, in the earlier edition of this work), on which sufiicient stress has not been laid, although it Avould appear to have had a greater influence on the issue of the fight than historians are aware. The right wing of the Irish army was completely protected by Drogheda, the Boyne, and the sea ; its left towards Slane was unprotected ; and if this was once turned or outflanked, the road to Duleek must be occupied, Dublin would be cut off", and then the temporary refuge of the fortress of Drogheda afforded the only hope for the Irish army. This could not escape the notice of a skilful opposing general, neither was it unforeseen to some of the advisers of King James, although he himself does not appear to have paid sufficient attention to it. At break of day upon the morning of Tuesday, the 1st of July, which was a remarkably clear, hot day, William despatched 10,000 men under the younger Schomberg, Generals Douglas, Overkirk, and Lord Portland, to cross the river at the fords, near Slane, of the existence and passability of which he appears to have been well informed. Proceeding behind the hill, now included in the demesne of Townley Hall, and crossing the Mattock river at Monk-Newtown, they were concealed from the Irish until they appeared on the elevated banks near Knowth, above the ford of Kossnaree, where it would appear the cavalry crossed with scarcely any opposition, except from the regiment of SirNealO'Neale, who himself was killed in the skirmish. The foot under Portland passed round by the bridge of Slane, two miles farther off, but joined the English cavalry near a marsh or bog which stood between them and their opponents, and before a sufficient force could have been despatched by James to oppose them. Here then was an army, nearly half the size of that of King James, advancing upon the left wing of the

   THE BATTLE OF ROSSNAREE. 253

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

7. James II watched his defeat at Donore Hill

   Donore Hill · hill or hills · Meath · 1690

   Donore Hill, one of several places called Donore in Ireland, is noted as the spot from which King James beheld his defeat at the Battle of the Boyne.

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   as its ruins are in better preservation than most of the other castles of the Pale, particularly those on the northern side of the river. We have not been able to collect any accurate information with reference to this building, which does not appear to be older than the fifteenth century. It was probably built by some of the Anglo-Norman soldiers, who spread themselves over the fertile valley of the Boyne for two or three centuries after the English invasion. There are several Donores, both in Meath, Westmeath, and Kildare ; and two of these — M'^Geoghegan's castle, in Westmeath, and Donore Hill, from whence James beheld his defeat at the Boyne — are memorable localities.

   The next bridge we meet is that of Inchmore, near which the Kildare Blackwater empties itself, and beyond it that of ScarifF, below which latter the river is broken into a great number of islands, and intersected by weirs. The road approaches to within a few yards of the stream at this

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 52

8. King William encamps at Finglas after the battle

   Finglas · parish · Dublin · 1690

   King William arrived and encamped at Finglas outside Dublin city on the Friday following the battle, after James had departed for Waterford and Dublin was evacuated by Irish forces.

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   see several of King James's horse guards coming in straggling, without pistols or swords, and could not tell what was become of himself. Near 10 that night he came in with about 200 horse all in disorder. We concluded now that it was a total rout, and that the enemy were just ready to come into town, but were greatly surprized when an hour or two after we heard the whole body of the Irish horse come in in very good order, with kettle-drums, hautboys, and trumpets, and early next morning the French and a great party of the Irish foot." James departed for Waterford. early the next morning, and none of the English army appeared until eight o'clock at night upon Thursday, the second day after the engagement, when an officer and one troop of dragoons arrived to take charge of the stores; the town having been previously evacuated of all the Irish force. King William arrived and encamped at Finglas, outside the city, upon Friday, the 4th.

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 154

9. Lord Justice St. Ledger's punitive campaign in Offaly

   Offaly · county · Offaly · 1546

   In response to the burning of Castle Carbury, the Lord Justice Anthony St. Ledger came into Offaly and plundered and burned the country as far as the Togher of Cruoghan, later returning to spend fifteen days destroying churches, monasteries, and crops.

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   by that chieftain, his captor and kinsman, to Castle Carbiiry, together with several of the English nobles and ecclesiastics. The celebrated Red Hugh O'Donnel, when laying waste Meath and Leinster in 1475, " demolished and burned Castle Carbury and Ballynieyler." So late as 1546 we read that "the plains of Cairbre and Castle Carbury were plundered and burned" by some of the Irish insurgents, particularly the O'Kelly's, the O'Maddens, and O'Conors. The mode in which this outrage was punished by the high legal functionary of the Government is highly characteristic of the time. " When," .say the Annals, " the Lord Justice, Anthony St. Ledger, heard of this, he came into OfFaly and i^lundered and burned the country as far as the Togher of Cruoghan ;" and again, " the Lord Justice came a second time into OfFaly, and remained fifteen days in the country, plundering and spoiling it, burning churches and monasteries, and destroying crops and corn." These notices, from authentic history, afford us some idea of the state of this country in the middle of the sixteenth centviry ; and of the mode taken by its governors to suppress crime, and to gain the affections of the Irish chiefs and people. The modern part of the present castle must have been erected long since these days, probably in 1548, and appears to have fallen gradually into decay. After the Berminghams it passed into the possession of the Cowleys, an English family, the great ancestors of the Duke of Wellington.* From whatever side we approach, it

   * The Hero of Waterloo boasts that he has uot a drop of Irish or Milesian blood in his veins, and so far as the old Irish stock is concerned, he certainly has not (except perhaps a slight collateral rill through the Cusacks of Cushinstown), no more than many other noblemen and gentlemen connected with Ireland, whom the Times calls Celts. For the following pedigree we are indebted to our learned friend, John O' Donovan :

   Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 28

10. Miniature kistvaen grave found near New Grange with vitrified stone lining

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    On the western slope near New Grange a small kistvaen chamber was opened, reached by a narrow stone passage, containing human and animal bones, some burned. The chamber floor was lined with stones bearing vitrified surfaces, showing a body had been burned within the grave itself.

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    Not only in the surrounding plain, but even on the hill of New Grange itself, do we meet small sepulchral caves and mounds. The whole is one "fast cemetery. On the western side of the natural hill sloping from this mound, we some years ago were present at the opening of a small kistvaen, reached by a narrow stone passage, — a sort of miniature New Grange ; in it were a quantity of human bones and those of small animals, pigs, sheep, dogs, and fowl; some burned, and some not bearing any marks of fire; but the most remarkable circumstance about it was, that the bottom of this little chamber Avas lined with stones, the iipper surfaces of which bore evident marks of fire, — in fact were vitrified, — showing that the victim, or the dead body, was burned within the grave.

    In the north-eastern margin of New Grange is a cvirioiisly constructed crypt, like a hermit's cell, but of comparatively modern date. It is, however, worth inspection.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 122

11. Sidh Nechtain and the fairy hill of Carbury

    Carbury · townland · Kildare

    The hill of Carbury, where the Boyne rises at the Well of the Blessed Trinity, was anciently called Sidh Nechtain, the fairy hill of Nechtain, associated with a legendary first-century king and poet of Leinster.

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    The well of the Blessed Trinity, at which the Boyne rises, is at the foot of the hill of Carbury, anciently called Sidh Nechtain, the fairy hill of Nechtain. There was a celebrated poet and king of Lcinster, called Nechtain, or Nuada-Neacht, in the first century, who had a secret well in his garden, one of the miraculous virtues of which was, that any one who approached it, except the monarch and his three cup-bearers, Flesg, Lesg, and Luam, was instantly deprived of sight, their eyes bursting, as the manuscripts describe it. Female curiosity, however, was not to be disappointed, and Boan, the queen, was determined to test the mystical powers of its waters; she, therefore, arrogantly, not only approached the well, and defied its powers to mar her beauty, but passed three times round it

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 24

12. St. Cairneach's curse on Cletty leads to its desertion

    Dulane · townland · Meath

    St. Cairneach of Tuilen (now Dulane, near Kells) cursed the House of Cletty after Muircheartach's burning there, and the place was soon after deserted, with his prophecy recorded in the Annals of Tighernach.

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    Two of the most celebrated Irishmen of early times died on the Boyne's bank : Finn Mac Cumhaill, the renowned warrior, popularly known as Fin-ma-Cool, who was killed with a dart or gaff by a fisherman named Athlach, at Ath-Brea or Eath- Breagha,f and also his father-in-law, King Cormac Mac Art, the grandson of Con of the Hundred Battles, who died from a fish-bone having stuck in his throat. The circumstances attending the death of the latter are here worth recording. He was one of the most renowned, just, and wise of the monarchs of Tara, and is said to have been the third person who accepted Christianity in Erin before the time of Patrick. One of his eyes having been destroyed by the warrior Engus Gaibhuaibhnech, he afterwards generally resided at Acaill (now Skreeu), at Kells, or at the. House of Cletty (Cletigh, Cleiteach, or Cletech), as "it was not lawful that a king with a personal blemish should reside at Tara.":|: Two years after the loss of his eye, he was suffocated, from the bone of a salmon having stuck in his throat, at this House of Cletty, the site of which has not yet been determined by topographers. The name, the situation, and the remains at Clady, afford us, however, some clue to it. In several Irish manuscripts, both in prose and verse, this house is alluded to as being over or above the Boyne (" Cletig supra Boin"), and in the vicinity of Tara, to both of which circumstances this place accurately answers ; but furthermore we learn something of its precise locality from the account given of the death of King Muircheartach Mac Earca, nearly two centuries and a half after the time of Cormac. He was burned to death in the House of Cletty, by his mistress Sheen, after the battle of Kirb, — a spot believed to be Assey, upon the opposite side of the Boyne. St. Cairneach, of Tuilen (now Dulane, near Kells), cursed the place, and it was soon after deserted. His prophecy is recorded in the Annals of Tighernach. King Cormac's death took place, according to the Four Masters, A. D. 266, " at Cleiteach, the bone

    * See the Dublin Penny Journal, vol. iii. p. 350.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 73

13. St. Columbkill's Stone and the priest's grave clay cure at Carrick

    Carrick · townland · Offaly

    The peasantry used to show a large stone with indentations resembling a hand print, said to have been lifted by St. Columbkill. Until recently, people carried away clay from a priest's grave here, using it as a cure for several diseases.

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    There are several traditions and some curious remnants of superstitious usages yet remaining attached to this locality. The peasantry used to show a large stone, with some indentations in it resembling the print of the hand, which they said Avas lifted by St. Columbkill. Not long ago, people were in the habit of carrying away from hence portions of the clay of a priest's grave, and using it as a cure for several diseases, a practice formerly in much repute, particularly in the west of Ireland.*

    A few hundred yards below the ruins on the hill of Carrick, in the angle formed by the junction of the roads leading to Edenderry and Carbery, Ave find the holy Avell of Tobercro, or Tober Crogh-neeve^ the "Well of the Holy Cross, a beautiful spring shaded with flowering briars and wild white roses. Although it is now totally neglected, and its site scarcely known even by the neighbouring peasantry, it was once highly venerated, and its virtues greatly esteemed. The water runs into the Boyne through the adjacent valley. See page 53.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 35

14. St Kienan's incorruptible relics at Duleek

    Duleek · town · Meath · 489

    A tradition recorded regarding St Kienan of Duleek held that his body remained incorrupt, without decay, with his muscles perfect and his hair and nails still growing, suggesting his body was preserved as a relic there.

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    t In the notes to the Irish Archaeological edition of Nennius, p. 221, we read, " Cianan, of Daimhliag (Duleek) remains without corruption, without stinking, with his muscles perfect, and his hair and his nails grow." This curious tradition is mentioned in the notes to the Feilire Aenguis, at the 24th November ; it may, perhaps, be imderstood as communicating to us the fact that the whole bodv of the saint was preserved as a relic at Duleek.

    t2

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 158

15. St. Loman and St. Patrick found an abbey at Trim in 432

    Trim · town · Meath · 432–433

    According to Colgan, St. Patrick founded an abbey of canons regular dedicated to the Virgin Mary at Trim in 432, on land given by Fethlemid. St. Loman, Patrick's nephew, became the first bishop, and the tale of his baptizing Feidlimid's son Foirchern is recounted from Tirechan via Ussher.

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    Although we have no evidence of the military importance of Trim before the arrival of the English in the twelfth century, there is high authority for believing it to be "one of the oldest, if not the very oldest, of the Irish episcopal sees ;" and consequently it had au abbey or conventual church, which, it appears, was used, like the round towers of old, as an occasional place of refuge and defence to the small Christian community which had collected around it. "Colgan informs us that so early as the year 432, St. Patrick founded here an abbey of canons regular, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, built on a piece of ground given for that purpose by Fethlemid, the son of Laoghaire [Felimy, or Phelimy, son of Leary], and grandson of Nialh"* The first bishop of this see was St. Loman, the nephew of Patrick, who was succeeded by Forcherne, the grandson of King Laoghaire, who Avas said to have been baptized by Patrick himself.

    " A. D. 433. When Patrick, in his holy navigation, came to Ireland, he left St. Loman at the mouth of the Boyne, to take care of his boat forty days and forty nights ; and then he (Loman) waited another forty, out of obedience to Patrick. Then, according to the order of his Master (the Lord being his pilot), he came in his boat against the stream, as far as the ford of Trim, near the fort of Feidlimid [Felimy], son of Loiguire [Leary]. And when it was morning, Foirchern, son of Feidlimid, found him reciting the Gospel; and, admiring the Gospel and his doctrine, immediately believed : and, a well being opened in that place, he was baptized by Loman, in Christ; and remained with him until his mother came to look for him ; and she was made glad at his sight, because she was a British woman. But she likewise believed, and again returned to her house and told to her husband all that had happened to her and her son. And then Feidlimid was glad at the coming of the priest, because he had his mother from the Britons, — the daughter of the King

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Trim, in Meath. Colgan called this one of the oldest, if not the very oldest, of the Irish episcopal sees. In 432, St. Patrick founded an abbey of canons regular here, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, on ground given by Fethlemid, son of Laoghaire and grandson of Niall. The first bishop was St. Loman, Patrick's nephew, and he was succeeded by Forcherne, grandson of King Laoghaire, who was said to have been baptized by Patrick himself. The tale of that baptism comes from Tirechan, through Ussher. In 433, when Patrick came to Ireland, he left St. Loman at the mouth of the Boyne to mind his boat forty days and forty nights. Loman waited another forty, in obedience to Patrick. Then, with the Lord as his pilot, he brought the boat upstream against the stream to the ford of Trim, near the fort of Feidlimid, son of Laoghaire. In the morning, Foirchern, son of Feidlimid, found him reciting the Gospel. He admired the Gospel and the doctrine and believed at once. A well was opened in that place, and Loman baptized him in Christ. Foirchern stayed with him until his mother came looking for him. She was glad to see him, because she was a British woman. She believed too, and went home and told her husband all that had happened to her and her son. Feidlimid was glad at the priest's coming, because his mother was from the Britons, the daughter of a king.

16. St. Patrick lights paschal fire at Slane

    Slane · townland · Meath · 432

    St. Patrick's lighting of his paschal fire near Slane excited the displeasure of King Loeghaire, and Patrick was subsequently called to answer for himself before the king.

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    20, 21; Anglo-Norman chieftains of the, 7. Patrick, St., excites the displeasure of king Loeghaire by lighting his paschal

    fire, 180 ; and is called to answer for himself, 181. Patron festivals at holy wells, 46, 47, 48. Peppard, or Pipard, Eichard, rebuilder of Trim castle, 94. Petrie's, Dr. George, essay on the history and antiquities of Tara, referred to,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 180

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Slane, in 432, St. Patrick lit his paschal fire, and it caught the notice of King Loeghaire, who was not pleased. Patrick was called before the king to answer for himself.

17. The Ancient Gabled Tomb at Slane

    Slane · townland · Meath

    A gable-shaped stone tomb of great antiquity stands south of the church at Slane, similar to ones at Saul and Donaghpatrick. Local funeral custom required mourners to lay the corpse down at this spot while carrying it round the graveyard.

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    flags which formed the roof. That this is a tomb of great antiquity, and to which peculiar reverence attaches, may be learned from the fact that, at all the funerals of the lower orders here, the people, in carrying the corpse round the graveyard, according to ancient custom, invariably lay it down for a short time at this spot. Within the enclosure of the burial-ground, and to the north of the abbey, is the well of Tober Patrick, formerly in great repute, and which the people say not only rises and falls with the floods of the Boyne, but sometimes has bits of bulrushes floating in it. This rising and falling of the water in this holy well is not peculiar; several similar circumstances are related of other holy fountains. (See Nennius).

    The noble pointed window, in the highly decorated style denominated flamboyant, over the round arched doorway in the western side of the tower, together with the many rare examples of architecture, of great elegance of design, both in the ruins of the church and the adjoining monastery, not forgetting the prim face of a nun, sciilptured in a stone, built up in the wall which now encloses the grave-yard, and the wide range of prospect obtained by climbing the tower itself, are well worthy a morning's visit to Slane. The church is somewhat more than 100 feet long by eighteen wide. Within it, among the nettles and rank weeds, may, if carefully looked for, be found the ancient font. It is unornamented, octagon in shape, and the basin, as usual, twenty- two inches in diameter. The ruins of the monastery, which are very extensive, are quite detached from the church, and to the north-east of it.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 110

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, south of the church at Slane, stands an ancient gable-shaped stone tomb, its roof formed of flags. It is a tomb of great antiquity, and peculiar reverence attaches to it. Similar tombs stand at Saul and Donaghpatrick. The reverence comes from an old funeral custom of the people here. At funerals of the lower orders, they would carry the corpse round the graveyard according to ancient custom, and invariably they laid the body down for a short time at this spot. Within the enclosure of the burial-ground, north of the abbey, is the well of Tober Patrick, once in great repute. The people say it not only rises and falls with the floods of the Boyne, but sometimes has bits of bulrushes floating in it. This rising and falling of the water in a holy well is not peculiar. Similar circumstances are related of other holy fountains. The ruins hold much else worth seeing. A noble pointed window in the flamboyant decorated style sits over a round arched doorway in the western side of the tower. The church and adjoining monastery show rare examples of architecture, great elegance of design. A prim face of a nun, sculptured in stone, is built up in the wall that now encloses the graveyard. The tower itself offers a wide range of prospect. The church is somewhat more than 100 feet long by 18 wide. Within it, among nettles and rank weeds, if carefully looked for, the ancient font may be found. It is unornamented, octagon in shape, the basin 22 inches in diameter. The ruins of the monastery are very extensive, quite detached from the church, and to the north-east of it.

18. The great carved spiral slab at New Grange entrance

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    A large micaceous slab, ten feet long and eighteen inches thick, carved with spirals and volutes, was found at the entrance to the mound. Its greenish colour and composition differ from other stones nearby, suggesting it may originally have belonged to another structure.

    Read the passage

    This stone, so beautifully carved in spirals and volutes, as shown in the graphic illustration upon the opposite page, is slighty convex, from above downwards; it measures ten feet in length, and is about eighteen inches thick. What its original use was, — where its original position in this mound, — whether its carvings exhibit the same handiwork and design as those sculptured stones in the interior, and whether this beautiful slab did not belong to some other building of anterior date, — are questions worthy of consideration, but which we have not space to discuss.

    At the same time that this remarkable micaceous slab, which is of a greenish colour, and quite different from the other stones in the vicinity, was exposed, a few years ago, the edge of another very curious, and most exquisitely carved stone, was found projecting from the mound, a short distance above and within the line of the present entrance. That figured beneath represents a portion of the carved edge of this lintel, which projects horizontally above the entrance.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 116

19. The Great Cross at Monasterboice, tallest in Ireland

    Monasterboice · townland · Louth

    In front of the round tower at Monasterboice stands the tallest cross believed to exist in Ireland, measuring twenty feet in the shaft and consisting of three stones with a cap shaped like a shrine or church.

    Read the passage

    The most attractive objects of antiquity here are those magnificently sculptured crosses, to which we have already made allusion, and which have been not only the great boast of Irish antiquaries, but which have so frequently, and in such glowing terms, elicited the admiration of foreigners. With the exception of the great cross at Clonmacnoise, and one which we ourselves recently exhumed near the cathedral of St. Brecan, in the great island of Arran, there is nothing of the kind in Great Britain, or perhaps in Europe, either in magnitude, design, or execution, to compare Avith two at least of the crosses at Monasterboice. Immediately in front of the round tower, and at the southern side of the adjoining church, stands the tallest of these crosses, and we believe the highest in Ireland ; it measures twenty feet in the shaft, and is morticed into a base twenty inches high, but several feet of which are now hid beneath the surface _ This beautifully slender cross, figured in the accompanying Avood-cut, consists, independently of the base or socket, of three stones ; the shaft

    298

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 168

20. The great ring fort at Dowth, possibly Dun-na-nGedh

    Dowth · townland · Meath

    Within the demesne of Dowth or Netterville stands one of the largest ring forts or military raths in Ireland, about 300 paces in circumference, with a large opening on the south-western side. O'Donovan supposed this was the fort of Dun-na-nGedh, where King Domhnall gave his celebrated feast.

    Read the passage

    Within the demesne of Dowth or Netterville is to be seen one of the very largest ring forts or military raths in Ireland, except, perhaps, the Giant's Ring at Belfast. It is about 300 paces in circumference, round the top of the embankment, and has a large opening on the south-western side. This O'Donovan supposes was the fort of Dun-na-nGedh, where Domhnall gave his celebrated feast, to which we alluded at p. 176.*

    In the same field, and immediately adjoining the road, and now forming the edge of a quarry, we meet Cloghlea, a portion of a stone circle, evidently a part of the side wall or basement of a sepulchral chamber similar to New Grange, than which it was, perhaps, even larger. Four of these stones, of immense size (one twelve feet long), still stand, two others are prostrate, and two more are lying in the adjoining quarry, — eight in all. Human remains have, on more than one occasion, been found in the vicinity of this remnant of an ancient tumulus. On the edges of these stones will be found indentations similar to those in some of the stones of the passage of New Grange, one of which is figured at page 194.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 128

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dowth, there is one of the largest ring forts in Ireland, except perhaps for the Giant's Ring at Belfast. It runs about 300 paces round the top of its embankment, with a large opening on the south-western side. O'Donovan supposed this was the fort of Dun-na-nGedh, where Domhnall gave his celebrated feast. In the same field, immediately adjoining the road and now forming the edge of a quarry, you come upon Cloghlea, a portion of a stone circle. It was evidently part of the side wall or basement of a burial chamber like the one at Newgrange, and perhaps even larger. Four of these stones, immense in size, one of them twelve feet long, still stand. Two others lie prostrate, and two more rest in the adjoining quarry, eight in all. Human remains have been found near this remnant of an ancient tumulus on more than one occasion. The edges of these stones carry indentations similar to those on some of the stones in the passage at Newgrange.

21. The Red Pillar-Stone Marking King Dathi's Grave

    near Rathcroghan · monument · Roscommon · 1666

    The body of King Dathi was brought to Rathcroghan for burial, where the red pillar-stone remained as a monument over his grave. In the author's own time the stone stood in a field near the cross-roads, used by cattle as a scratching stone.

    Read the passage

    Tuathal, and Tomaltach, were the four servants of trust who carried with them the body of the king. The body of Datlii was brought to Croghan, where the kings of the race of Hereinon were for the most part interred, where to this day (166G) the cairrthe dhearg, red pillar-stone, remains as a monument over his grave, near Rathcroghan. That the body of Dathi is interred in the middle of Aonach na Cruaghna is attested by Torna Eigeas, in his poem pointing out the burial-place of the kings of the race of Heremon to the men of Erin." — p. 25. From this we learn not only the use of the pillar-stone, about which, as well as the cromlech (generally but erroneously called a Druid's altar), speculative and imaginary antiquaries — Avho are Lisually unacquainted with the Irish language or Irish history — have written so much, and with such an assumption of learning, but also the fact that the graves and monuments of Irish chieftains were Avell known 200 years ago. The cemetery is still to be recognised among the great Raths at Croghan, and we have often seen the pillar-stone alluded to, where it stood in a field near the cross-roads of that place, and was used as a "scratching stone" by the fat cattle that grazed among the raths and upon the fertile plains of Rathcroghan.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 112

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Rathcroghan in Roscommon, a red pillar-stone marks the grave of King Dathi. His body was brought here by four trusted servants, Tuathal and Tomaltach among them, because the kings of the race of Heremon were for the most part interred at Croghan. Torna Eigeas, in his poem pointing out the burial-place of the kings of the race of Heremon to the men of Erin, attests that Dathi is buried in the middle of Aonach na Cruaghna. The cairrthe dhearg, the red pillar-stone, remained as a monument over his grave, and in the author's own time, 1666, it still stood there. That the graves and monuments of Irish chieftains were well known 200 years ago is clear from this record. The cemetery is still to be recognised among the great raths at Croghan. The author writes that he had often seen the pillar-stone where it stood in a field near the cross-roads of that place, and was used as a "scratching stone" by the fat cattle that grazed among the raths and upon the fertile plains of Rathcroghan.

22. The Witch's Stone and lost town at the Hill of Carrick

    Carrick · townland · Offaly

    The Hill of Carrick features the Witch's Stone, a large block of trap rock, and slight architectural remains believed to be a hermit's cell, suggesting it was a place of note in ancient times. Tradition holds that a considerable town once stood at the base of its north-eastern side, now a limestone quarry.

    Read the passage

    This hill, though not mentioned in history, that we have been able to discover, must, not only from its situation, but from the traditions in the neighbourhood, — the rock denominated the Witch's Stone, and some slight vestiges of architectural remains upon its summit (probably those of a hermit's cell), — have been a place of note in very ancient times, antecedent to the date of the ruins which at present exist upon it. It is said that a considerable town once stood at the base of its north-eastern side, where there is now a vast limestone quarry. The extensive woods of Ballindoolan stretch down from its summit towards the north, and upon the south-eastern brow of the hill adjoining, the more direct road to Edenderry, we find another group of ruins, the church and castle figured upon the opposite page.

    The hill of Carrick (the Rock), which very much resembles that of Carbury, and commands a similar extent and beauty of prospect, derives its name from a large block of trap rock, called " the Witch's Stone," which stands upon its northern brow, just over the great limestone quarry. It is evidently the same kind of stone as the large mass of trap which is to be found about ten miles off, near Philipstown, to the south-west of this hill ; but whether it is a boulder, and Avas carried to this spot — which is in the general direction of the great current which appears to have transported the beds of limestone gravel throughout Leinster — by natural means; or was transported there by art for some sacred purpose in early Pagan times, as Ave know was frequently the case, it is difficult to say. Upon the lower Boyne, near the hill of Dowth, we meet masses of compact basalt, fully as large, which must have been transported there by artificial means. The legend is, that a witch cast this stone from the hill of Croghan, at some of our early saints, and that it alighted here. This is a favourite and widely spread legend in the north of Europe ; in Scotland we find it preserved

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 33

23. Burning of the Cloictheach at Monasterboice, 1097

    Monasterboice · townland · Louth · 1097

    In 1097 the round tower (cloictheach) of Monasterboice, containing several books and valuables, was burned, an event recorded in multiple ancient Irish annals and cited as evidence for the use of round towers as repositories.

    Read the passage

    The annals of this monastic establishment are voluminous, but, with few exceptions, they consist of the obits of its abbots, and some account of the plunderings and conflagrations which it suffered. Among the latter is one worthy of recital, on account of its frequency or repetition in a number of ancient Irish authorities, as, for instance, the Chronicon Scotorum, the Annals of Ulster, and the Annals of the Four Masters, and because it lends considerable support to the theory of one of the uses to which the round towers were occasionally applied. It runs thus: " A. D. 1097. The cloictheach of Mainister, containing several books and valuables, was burned." It would appear from such fragments of history as have come down to the present time, that the monks of Boetius were distinguished for their learning, and that this monastery was long the repository of some of the most valuable literary and historic records of this country. The founder died upon the 7th of December, 522 ; and beyond the enumeration of his successors we learn little of the history of the establishment for some hundred years, until 1050, when Flann Mainistreach, a distinguished poet and historian, Avas abbot. Edward O'Eeilly, in his account of Irish writers, published in the Transactions of the Iberno- Celtic Society for 1820, has given a catalogue of fourteen of his works, principally poems descriptive of the eaily history,

    296 FLANN OF THE MONASTEUY.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 167

24. Cache of coins and stoup found in Kinnegad river near Clonard

    Clonard · town · Meath · 1694

    Improvements to deepen the Kinnegad river bed near Clonard uncovered a nest of antiquities including an oaken bucket with brazen vessels, silver coins of Elizabeth's reign, brass money of James II, and copper coins of William and Mary dated 1694, alongside an ornate oak and brass stoup likely used for holy water in the cathedral service.

    Read the passage

    improvements lately made for the purpose of deepening the bed of that stream, a nest of curious antiquities was discovered. They consisted of a bucket, composed of small oaken staves, in Avhich were packed some thin brazen culinary vessels ; one of those long brass Dutch boxes, well known to the curious in such matters, containing some silver coins of the reign of Elizabeth; some of the "brass money" of James II., and several copper coins of the reign of William and Mary, dated as late as I694, which latter serve to mark the time of the interment of these relics. But the object of most interest is a small bucket or Stoup, of oak, about six inches high, and beautifully hooped or bound with a thin filagree of brass ; the handle, which is also brass, is affixed by loops and clasps, which contained precious stones, and were decorated in the form of some of those carvings, so characteristic of early Irish art, both in the engraving and adorning of ornaments, and the embellishment and illumination of manuscripts. It is altogether an exceedingly light, chaste, and elegant fabric, and was, in all probability, used in the service of the cathedral, perhaps for carrying round the holy water.* Utensils of this kind, both household and ecclesiastical, are alluded to in the Brehon laws. Were we to offer a conjecture, we would say that after the battle of the Boyne, when Dutch boxes were common in Ireland, these relics were removed from the Abbey, and hidden, or dropped by accident, in the locality where they were found.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now near Clonard in Meath. In 1694, work was done to deepen the bed of the Kinnegad river, and the digging turned up a nest of curious antiquities. They were packed into a bucket made of small oaken staves. Inside were thin brazen culinary vessels, and one of those long brass Dutch boxes that collectors would recognise. The box held silver coins from the reign of Elizabeth, some of the brass money of James the Second, and several copper coins of William and Mary, dated as late as 1694. Those last coins mark the time these things were buried. The most interesting object is a small bucket or stoup, of oak, about six inches high, bound with a thin brass filigree. Its brass handle is fixed by loops and clasps that once held precious stones, and the decoration has the character of early Irish art, the kind seen in the engraving of ornaments and the illumination of manuscripts. It is a light, chaste, and elegant thing, and was in all probability used in the service of the cathedral, perhaps for carrying round the holy water. Utensils of this kind, both household and ecclesiastical, are mentioned in the Brehon laws. The writer offers a conjecture that after the battle of the Boyne, when Dutch boxes were common in Ireland, these relics were taken from the Abbey and hidden, or dropped by accident, in the place where they were found.

25. Clonard's library burned in 1143

    Clonard · town · Meath · 1143

    The library at Clonard, possibly containing manuscripts as significant as the Cathach of the O'Donnells, was burned in the year 1143.

    Read the passage

    and, although scattered through various works, they are now Avell known, and the majority of them have been collected with great industry by Archdall, in his Monasticon Hibernicum, in Avhich work he also relates the nobleness of birth, distinguished philosophy, and eminent piety and learning of the founder. The library was burned in the year 1143. Is it too great a stretch of the imagination to suppose that that very copy of the psalms, in the handwriting of St. Cohunbkille, contained in the splendid silver shrine called the Cathach of the O'Donnells, now in the Museum of the Eoyal Irish Academy, was written in this very library? So early as 665, we read of regular professorships having existed there. Besides those who resorted thither as students, it seems that several pious laymen retired to this secluded spot, to spend the remainder of their days in contemplation and repose. From this sanctuary and abode of wisdom, undoubtedly, sprang much of the learning both of Britain and the continent. The far-famed lona, from whence arose

    " That fire which lit creation in her youth, That turned the wandering savage into man, And showed him the omnipotence of truth,"

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now, the town of Clonard. In 1143, the library here was burned. The book asks whether that very copy of the psalms, in the handwriting of St. Columbkille, contained in the splendid silver shrine called the Cathach of the O'Donnells, now in the Museum of the Royal Irish Academy, might have been written in this very library. We will never know. As early as 665, there were regular professorships here. Besides those who came as students, several pious laymen retired to this secluded spot, to spend the remainder of their days in contemplation and repose. Archdall, in his Monasticon Hibernicum, collected much of what is known about the founder, whose nobleness of birth, distinguished philosophy, and eminent piety and learning he relates. From this sanctuary and abode of wisdom, the book says, undoubtedly sprang much of the learning both of Britain and the continent. The far-famed Iona, from whence arose, in the source's words, that fire which lit creation in her youth, that turned the wandering savage into man, and showed him the omnipotence of truth.

26. Columbkille founds monastery at Dair-Mahg (Durrow)

    Durrow · parish · Offaly · 550

    About the middle of the sixth century, Columbkille obtained a grant of land from the chieftain Brendan at Dair-Mahg, the 'plain of the oaks,' now Durrow, and erected a monastery there which became very celebrated. Hugh de Lacy later built his castle beside it, reportedly using materials from the destroyed abbey.

    Read the passage

    The true story is this. About the middle of the sixth century, Columbkille having obtained a grant of land from a chieftain named Brendan, in the King's County, at a place called Dair- Mahg, or the "plain of the oaks" (now Durrow), erected there a monastery, Avhich subsequently became very celebrated. Well, some centuries after, comes the English baron, Hugh De Lacy, — the acknowledged destroyer of churches, — and erects his castle beside it, and even with some of the very materials, it is said, of the ancient abbey, which he destroyed. This naturally excited the wrath of the rightful heirs, the descendants of the ancient lord of Dair-Mahg, the renowned Brendan.

    92 THE DEATH OF HUGH DE LACY.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 58

27. Duleek bridge dated 1587, used by James's cannon in 1690

    Duleek · town · Meath · 1587–1690

    Duleek is described as an ancient village on the Nanny Water, crossed by a narrow bridge erected in 1587 by William Bathe and Genet Dowdall. This same bridge held James's cannon during the Battle of the Boyne and its defence covered the Irish retreat.

    Read the passage

    William Bathe and Genet Dowdall, as stated by an inscription on a tablet inserted into the battlement, so that it is the very bridge on which the cannon of James were placed at the time

    He wheeled his horse, the hautboys played,

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 157

28. Four skeletons with bronze celts and Saxon coins found at Redbay near Cushendall

    Cushendall · townland · Antrim · 1849

    In July 1849, four skeletons were found in the rocky cliffs above Redbay near Cushendall, Co. Antrim, along with a stone celt, two bronze celts, and two small Saxon silver coins of the early ninth century, fixing the date of interment.

    Read the passage

    of a more globular form than those found in ancient Pagan tumuli, as if intermixture of races had modified the peculiarities of the crania, from the elongated to the true globular or Tuatha De Danaan. And again at the Ford of Kinnafad, we have shown at pp. 38-40, that the skulls and skeletons of both races, as well as the weapons which were probably employed by each, were discovered. The fragments of heads found in the great cairn at Dowth belonged to the long-headed race. Last month (July, 1849), four skeletons were found in the rocky cliffs above Redbay, near Cushendall, county of Antrim. Through the kindness of a friend we possess one of the skulls of these skeletons ; it partakes of most of the characters of the long-headed race, but it is somewhat greater in capacity, and approaches the globular form more than those found in the ancient sepulchres of Pagan times. Now what adds particular interest to these hiiman remains is, that a small stone celt or hatchet, and two bronze celts, were found along with them; these weapons enable us to form some conjecture of the probable age of the skulls, and also show that the bronze and stone weapons were used at the same time in this country : but that which fixes the date of the interment of these skeletons was the discovery of two small Saxon silver coins of the early part of the ninth century.*

    From the foregoing observations it is manifest not only that two separate races, the earliest characterized by very longheads, and who were probably the Firbolgs, or first colonizers, and the other by more globular and capacious skulls, and who, it would appear, were the Tuatha de Danaan, the conquerors of the former, existed in this country prior to the Christian era; but that both races subsequently existed together, and probably amalgamated. Skulls exhibiting both characters may be observed among the present truly Irish inhabitants, but that the more we approach the south and west the more do the former predominate, both in the existing inhabitants, and in the crania found in ancient burial-places.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 143

29. Half-witted recluse dwelling atop the Maiden Tower

    Maiden Tower · man-made feature · Meath

    In recent times a poor half-witted female recluse took up her abode on the top of the Maiden Tower, and was supplied with necessities by the surrounding peasantry, much like the hermits of old.

    Read the passage

    turned successful, he should hoist a milk-white banner; but if the contrary, a red flag should float from his mast-head. The preconcerted signal was forgotten, and the knight, seeing the tower, — which his true love had erected during his absence to watch his return, — and mistaking it for the watch-tower of an enemy and an invader, instantly displayed the blood-red flag, whereon the disconsolate maiden precipitated herself from the top of the tower, and was dashed to atoms. Not many years ago a poor half-witted female recluse took up her abode on the top of the tower, and was, like the hermits of old, supplied with every necessary by the surrounding peasantry. It has been conjectured that the tower was erected during the reign of Elizabeth, and took its name from the Maiden Queen.

    INDEX.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 176

30. Quarryman punished for splitting the Witch's Stone

    Carrick · townland · Offaly

    A mischievous quarryman split the witch's stone by blasting it a few years before the book's writing, and for this wanton act he was obliged to leave that part of the country.

    Read the passage

    Some mischievous quarryman split this witch's stone, by blasting it, a few years ago. For this wanton act he was obliged to leave that part of the country.

    Near the summit of the hill there is pointed out " the Mule's Leap," when running off with a saint from the Church of Carrick. Eight holes, marking, it is said, the places of the mule's feet, and showing a distance of about ten yardsbetween the place from which it sprung and where it alighted, are still to be seen, and it is said that no grass ever grows upon these footprints. The locality is worth observing, not for the nonsensical story of the mule, but because there is evidence of some masonry — probably the foundation of an ancient oratory — existing between the two sets of footmarks.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 34

31. Ruined priory church of Ballybogan on the Boyne

    Ballybogan · townland · Donegal

    On the Meath side of the river near Ballybogan bridge stand the ruins of one of the largest churches and monasteries encountered along the Boyne, second only to Trim, Slane, Bective or Drogheda. The cruciform church had a nave and choir 193 feet long, trefoil sedilia, and a curious vestry attached to the chancel.

    Read the passage

    Upon this, the Meath side, and a little to the north-west of the bridge, are the ruins of one of the largest churches and monasteries, except those of Trim, Slane, Bective, or Drogheda, which we meet with in our downward course ; and if indeed the domiciliary buildings (of which nothing but the foundations now- exist) were in proportion to the church, the former miist have been very extensive, for the latter is of great magnitude. The accompanying engraving, taken from the south-east, shows all that now remains of the church or priory of Ballybogan, which is pleasingly situated in a rich meadow, surrounded by trees, on the river's bank. The church was originally cruciform, but the transept has been entirely destroyed on both sides. The nave and choir measure 193 feet in the clear, and are twentysix feet broad. So very little architectural decoration is to be

    found, either in the walls Avhich are still standing, or among the surrounding rubbish, that Ave cannot believe it was ever highly decorated. Over the western entrance there was a tall, narrow window, without muUions or cross-bars, the arch of which, as well as those of the east window, exhibit the transition from the circular to the pointed style. In the northern wall of the choir three sedilia, with trefoil arches, yet remain; and attached to the outer wall of the chancel, upon the same side, there is a very curious little building, apparently a vestry or robing-room.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 38

32. Sitric and the Danes plunder Kells abbey

    Kells · town · Meath · 1108

    Sitric and the Danes of Dublin caused great destruction to the abbey and its possessions at Kells in 1108.

    Read the passage

    The Annals of Kells would fill a vohime such as this ; we can here only allude to a few of the most remarkable historic events which occurred here. We already mentioned the erection of the early ecclesiastical buildings at Kells by St. Columb. It is recorded that in 806 Cellah, Abbot of lona, took refuge here from the Norwegians, and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. Numerous battles were fought, both within and on the plains around Kells, which sustained several sieges, and was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed ; its churches robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen; its abbots and monks murdered, and its soldiers and inhabitants either butchered or carried off as prisoners by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders, for ujDwards of nine hundred years. Plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death, form the chief items in the records of this ancient and most celebrated place. We read that Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to this abbey in 1108, and Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger jMortimer, and burned the town of Kells in 1315; — and thus might we occupy an entire chajster.

    One of the most valuable pieces of antiquity connected with this place, and which has come down to modern times, is the celebrated Book of Kells, a most beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinitj' College.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 92

    As the companion tells it

    Kells, in Meath, is a town you pass through on this road, and its records run back more than nine hundred years. St. Columb erected the early ecclesiastical buildings here. In 806, Cellach, Abbot of Iona, took refuge from the Norwegians and repaired or rebuilt the abbey. Over the centuries, the settlement was frequently plundered, sacked, burned, and destroyed. Its churches were robbed, its shrines polluted, its altars desecrated, its relics stolen. Its abbots and monks were murdered, and its soldiers and inhabitants were either butchered or carried off as prisoners by the Irish themselves, by the English settlers, or by the Danish invaders. In 1108, Sitric and the Danes of Dublin made great havoc of all things belonging to this abbey. The annals record plague, pestilence, and famine, the sword, fire, battle, murder, and sudden death as the chief items in the records of this ancient and celebrated place. Later, in 1315, Edward Bruce defeated Lord Roger Mortimer and burned the town. One relic that has come down to modern times is the Book of Kells, a beautifully illuminated Irish manuscript, still preserved in the library of Trinity College.

33. St. Patrick curses the river Sele, turning it black

    near Blackwater River · river · Kerry

    According to the Tripartite Life of St. Patrick, the river originally called Abhainn Sele was cursed by St. Patrick after Carbre's men insulted him near Tailtean, and its waters turned dark, giving it the name Abhainn Dubh (Blackwater).

    Read the passage

    the south.* Ill the topographical description of the Boyne at the commencement of this work, we hazarded a conjecture (p. 25), that the river called Finnabhainn [i. e. White River] in the very ancient histories was no other than that now denominated the Blackwater of Meath, because it is said to have its source in Sliabh-Guaire,! a district in the vicinity of Lough Ramor, to which we have already alluded ; and a small stream which flows into this lake of Cavan lends support to this idea, and is in all probability the true source of the river, in the same manner as the Shannon, though said to rise in Lough Allen, has its real source in the neighbouring mountain of Sliabh an larainn. Ahhainn Sele was the name of this river till the time of St. Patrick, who, having cursed it, its waters are said to have assumed a peculiar dark hue, and it has ever since been known by its present name of Abhaiun Dubh. The circumstance is thus recorded in a passage in the Tripartite Life of St. Patrick,;}: which likewise serves to fix the situation of Tailtean or Tel tenia: "Prima autemferia venit Patricius ad Talteniam: ubi regia) nundinai et publici regni ludi et certamina quotannis servari solebant. Ibique convenit Carbreum Nielli filiuni, et Laogarii Regis fratrem fratrique animi ferocia et incredulitate similem. Huic S. Patricius verbum vitaj pr^edicaret viamque salutis ostenderet, vir adamantini cordis, non solum recusavit prasdicatiB veritate credere, sed viam vitte proponent! machinabatur mortem : et in vicinio fluvio nomine Sele Sancti viri socios flagellis excepit, qiiia Patricius eum appellavit inimicuni Dei." — Trias Thaum. p. 129. Colgan adds in a note : " Fluvio nomine Sele, cap. 4, hodie fluvius hie Abha-dhubh id est fluvius niger, appellatvir."

    We shall have occasion again to refer to this insult oiFered by the sons of CarbreandLoeghaire to Patrick, when we come to describe Teltown.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 87

34. The Great Mound of Knowth

    Knowth · townland · Meath

    Knowth is described as an abrupt, hemispherical mound with a flattened top, rising from the sloping hill of the townland from which it takes its name, encircled by enormous stones and consisting of a cairn nearly eighty feet high covering about an acre.

    Read the passage

    practised to the forms of ancient structures at once recognises these vast pyramids as the work of man, and a closer inspection soon sets this point at rest. To follow in detail these magnificent Pagan monuments — for such they are — as they present themselves, in our downward course, we first meet with Knowth, an abrupt, hemispherical mound, with rather a flattened top, rising out of the sloping hill of the townland from which it takes its name. Some enormous masses of stone, arranged in a circular manner round its base, tell us, however, that it is evidently the work of design; and some excavations made into one of its sides show that it consists of an enormous cairn of small stones, covered with rich greensward, occiipying in extent of surface about an acre, and rising to a height of nearly eighty feet. As far as we can judge by external appearances, although history is against us, it appears to be as yet uninvestigated ; but as there are no means of access to its interior, we can only speculate as to its use, and the mode of its construction, from an examination of similar structures in this vicinity. We therefore pass on to the next monument, that of New Grange, of which the accompanying illustration, taken from the road adjoining, aff"ords a tolerably correct idea.

    Like that just described, it consists of an enormous cairn or hill of small stones, calculated at 180,000 tons weight, occupying the summit of one of the natural undulating slopes which enclose the valley of the Boyne upon the north. It is said to cover nearly two acres, and is 400 paces in circum-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 114

    As the companion tells it

    A person practised in ancient structures recognises these vast pyramids at once as the work of man. A closer inspection soon settles the point. To follow in detail these magnificent pagan monuments, for such they are, as they present themselves in our downward course along the Boyne, the first we meet with is somewhere close to Knowth. It is an abrupt, hemispherical mound with a flattened top, rising out of the sloping hill from which it takes its name. Enormous masses of stone are arranged in a circular manner around its base, and these tell us it is evidently the work of design. Excavations made into one of its sides show it consists of an enormous cairn of small stones, covered with rich greensward. It occupies about an acre in extent and rises to a height of nearly eighty feet. As far as one can judge by external appearances, it appears to be as yet uninvestigated, although history is against us. There are no means of access to its interior. One can only speculate as to its use and the mode of its construction, from an examination of similar structures in this vicinity. The next of these monuments is New Grange. Like the one just described, it consists of an enormous cairn of small stones, calculated at 180,000 tons weight, occupying the summit of one of the natural undulating slopes which enclose the valley of the Boyne upon the north. It is said to cover nearly two acres.

35. Tradition of Hugh de Lacy's grave beneath the cloister arcade

    Bective Abbey · monument · Meath

    An arcade of pointed cinquefoil arches separates the cloister from the courtyard at Bective, and tradition holds that the great Lord Palatine, Hugh de Lacy, was buried beneath one of these arches.

    Read the passage

    An arcade of pointed cinquefoil arches, supported by light clustered pillars, decorated with elegantly carved capitals, separates the cloister from the court-yard or quadrangle, on the southern side ; and beneath one of these tradition says that the great Lord Palatine was buried. The carving of this colonnade is, from the hardness of the Ardbraccan stone, of which it is built, and the sharpness of the cutting, in fine preservation, and well worthy the attention of the archsological and antiquarian student. On the extreme western pilaster

    * See Grace's Annals of Ireland. A portion of this abbey of St. Thomas, now Thomas's Court, was remaining within the memory of man. In the incident related above, we have quoted the circumstances as they are set forth in records acknowledged to be authentic ; but, at the same time, we are inclined to question the chronology of the documents relied on by Irish historians, for if the body and head of De Lacy were thrown into the ditch, and endeavoured to be concealed by the Irish, it is not lii<ely that they could have been identified nine years after ; and the very fact of the head having been removed to Dublin, while the body was carried elsewhere, induces us to believe that the interment of both took place immediately after the murder. It is possible, however, that the body may have been originally interred at tlic cemetery at Durrow.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 70

    As the companion tells it

    Right here at Bective Abbey in Meath, an arcade of pointed cinquefoil arches runs along the southern side, separating the cloister from the courtyard. The clustered pillars are topped with elegantly carved capitals, and the stone is Ardbraccan, hard enough that the carving stays sharp and fine to this day. Tradition says the great Lord Palatine, Hugh de Lacy, was buried beneath one of these arches. The records are acknowledged as authentic, though the chronology raises questions. His body and head were thrown into a ditch and the Irish tried to conceal them, so it seems unlikely they could have been identified nine years later. The head was removed to Dublin while the body was carried elsewhere, which suggests both were interred soon after the murder. It is possible the body was first buried in the cemetery at Durrow. None of that uncertainty touches the carving itself, which is well worth your attention if you have a moment to stop.

36. Two long-headed skeletons found in Knockmaroon kistvaen

    Knockmaroon Hill · hill or hills · Dublin · 1838

    Within the stone chamber at Knockmaroon two perfect male skeletons were found in a recumbent posture along with a necklace of small sea shells, a bone fibula, and a flint arrow-head. Four urns containing incinerated human bones were also found within the surrounding mound.

    Read the passage

    found in a recumbent posture, and also the tops of the thigh bones of another, and a single bone of an animal, supposed to be a dog. Immediately under each skull Avas found collected together a number of small sea shells (the Neinta litoralis), which evidently formed a necklace; and a small fibula of bone, precisely similar to those found in Denmark, and a small ilint arrow-head, were likewise discovered in this kistvaen. Within the mound which formed this sepulchre, but not within the tomb, were found four urns of baked clay, containing incinerated human bones. The two heads found in this sepulchre are, perhaps, the most perfect of their kind in existence ; they are chiefly characterized by their extreme length from before backwards, or what is technically termed the anteroposterior diameter, and the flatness of their sides ; and in this and most other respects they correspond with the second form of head discovered in the Danish sepulchres, but different from it; these long-headed aborigines of Ireland, and indeed we may say all our skulls discovered in sepulchres of undoubted heathen times, are never found in connexion with metallic substances, but only with stone, bone, shell, or baked clay ornaments, weapons, or implements.

    These skulls, one of which is exhibited in this representation, present the same marked characters in their facial aspect, and the projecting occiput and prominent frontal sinuses, as the Danish ones. The nose, in common with all the truly Irish heads we have examined, presents the most marked peculiarities, and evidently must have been very prominent. With this we have evidences of the teeth having been slightly projecting, and the chin small, square, well-marked, and also prominent; so that on the whole this race must have pos-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 139

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead you pass through Knockmaroon Hill, in Dublin, where in 1838 a stone chamber was opened in the mound. Inside, two male skeletons lay in a recumbent posture, the tops of the thigh bones of another, and a single bone of an animal supposed to be a dog. Under each skull a number of small sea shells had been collected together, forming a necklace. A small fibula of bone, precisely similar to those found in Denmark, and a small flint arrow-head were likewise discovered in this kistvaen. Within the mound, but not within the tomb itself, four urns of baked clay were found, containing incinerated human bones. The two heads from this sepulchre are perhaps the most perfect of their kind in existence. They are characterized by their extreme length from before backwards, and the flatness of their sides. In this and most other respects they correspond with the second form of head discovered in the Danish sepulchres. These long-headed aborigines of Ireland, and indeed all skulls discovered in sepulchres of undoubted heathen times, are never found in connexion with metallic substances, but only with stone, bone, shell, or baked clay ornaments, weapons, or implements. The projecting occiput and prominent frontal sinuses match the Danish ones. The nose, as with all the truly Irish heads examined, presents the most marked peculiarities and must have been very prominent. The teeth were slightly projecting, the chin small, square, well-marked, and also prominent.

37. Two skulls of different races found at Kinnafad

    Kinnafad · townland · Kildare

    Two well-marked skulls representing distinct races—a long-headed type and a globular-headed type—were found along with the weapons and antiquities at Kinnafad, one bearing a sword-cut on the crown, suggesting these people fought with the weapons found around their remains.

    Read the passage

    weapons and antiquities described, at Kinnafad. They are represented in the accompanying wood-cuts. The long head is quite perfect, and has a sword-cut on the crown. The base of the skull and face has been broken oiF the specimen of the globular head. Is it unnatural to suppose that these people fought with the weapons by which their remains were found surrounded ?

    It is now more than five years since we first drew attention to this subject, and promulgated the idea as to the two races which originally inhabited this country ; and it is pleasing to find that every instance of human remains since discovered in Ireland is confirmatory of the views we then put forward.*

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 33

38. Wellington's boyhood connection to Dangan near Trim

    Dangan · townland · Meath

    Caesar Otway recalls that Clonard was a strong military position well known to Lord Wellington, whose paternal mansion Dangan lay nearby near Trim, and where the young Arthur Wellesley once resided in a shooting-lodge between Summerhill and Dangan before becoming the famous general.

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    " The Boyne water flows lazily here, amidst sedge and reeds, — appearing but the dark drain of an immense morass — the discharge of the waste waters of the bog of Allen. A strong position in time of Avar — Lord Wellington knows it well : he has often had his soldier eye upon it, his paternal mansion Dangan being not far off to the right, near Trim. How difi*erent was the young, fun-loving, comical, quizzing, gallanting Captain Arthur Wellesley, when residing in his shooting-lodge between Summerhill [Trim] and Dangan, from the stern, cautious, careworn Fabius of the Peninsular war; the trifling, provoking, capricious sprig of nobility, half-dreaded, halfdoated on by the women, hated by the men, — the dry joker, the practical wit, &c., — from the redoubtable warrior of Waterloo

    56 THE BATTLE OK CLONARD.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 40

39. Measurements and eastern recess of the great chamber

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    The chamber's dome rises nineteen feet six inches from the floor, with the eastern recess being larger and more richly carved with volutes, lozenges, zigzags and spirals than the others.

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    the same in both. The gi'ound plan of the great Boyne monument also finds its analogue in the Orient; at Tyre and at Alexandria we find tombs carved out of the solid rock, of precisely the same cruciform shape, having three minor excavations projecting from the several chambers. But while we thus allow ourselves to draw upon our recollections of other lands, we fear our readers, and the visiters to New Grange, for whose use in particular we write, may require some further information as to the measurements, construction, and hieroglyphics of this remarkable monument. The top of the dome is nineteen feet six inches from the floor, which is now covered with loose stones and rubbish. From the entrance to the wall of the chamber opposite measures eighteen feet ; and between the extremities of the right and left crypts, twenty-two feet. Each of the side chambers is nearly square, their sides being formed of large oblong blocks of stone ; but they are not all of the same size ; that on the right of the entrance, the eastern, is very much larger than either of the others, and is also the most enriched with those rude carvings, volutes, lozenges, zigzags, and spiral lines, cut into the stones, and in some instances standing out in relief, to which we alluded in describing the passage.

    In order to afi"ord our readers some idea of these curious markings, we have introduced the accompanying illustrations.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 119

40. Curious carved lintel stone discovered above the entrance

    Newgrange · townland · Meath

    A second exquisitely carved stone was found projecting from the mound just above the entrance, its sculpture far exceeding the rude carvings inside. The author speculates it may mark the entrance to another as-yet undiscovered chamber.

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    At the same time that this remarkable micaceous slab, which is of a greenish colour, and quite different from the other stones in the vicinity, was exposed, a few years ago, the edge of another very curious, and most exquisitely carved stone, was found projecting from the mound, a short distance above and within the line of the present entrance. That figured beneath represents a portion of the carved edge of this lintel, which projects horizontally above the entrance.

    This stone, of which we can only perceive the edge, is five feet eight inches long ; its sculpture, both in design and execution, far exceeds any of the rude carvings which are figured, apparently at random, upon the stones found within the cave; and as it never could have been intended to be concealed from view, it is most probable that it decorates the entrance into some other chamber, which further examination may yet disclose. The largest of the Egyptian pyramids contains several chambers, superincumbent upon the great sepulchral vault in which the sarcophagus was placed. This sculptured stone is of

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 116

41. 1847 excavation of Dowth by the Royal Irish Academy

    Dowth · townland · Meath · 1847

    The Committee of Antiquities of the Royal Irish Academy obtained permission from the Netterville Charity trustees to excavate Dowth, with funds raised by subscription and work directed by Mr. Frith, aided by the Board of Works.

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    A desire having long existed to explore some of these monuments, the Committee of Antiqiiities of the Royal Irish Academy obtained permission from the trustees of the Netterville Charity, the present proprietors of the Dowth estate, to examine the interior; and funds having been procured, chiefly by private subscription, and afterwards aided by the Academy, the direction of the work was committed to the care of Mr. Frith, one of the Covmty Dublin surveyors ; and the Board of Works kindly aff'orded the tools, or "plant," for carrying on the excavations. Several excursions were made to the spot, for the purpose of deciding on the best means for gaining access to the interior, as, from the analogy to New Grange, it was supposed to contain a central chamber. Opinions were divided as to whether a perpendicular shaft should be sunk from the top by a well-borer, or a horizontal tunnel driven in from one of the sides towards the centre. The remarkably loose material of which the mound is composed presented such objections to both these plans, while the apparent feasibility of obtaining ingress through the passage already open on the Avestern side, so far, at least, as it was possible to follow it,

    206

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 124

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dowth, in 1847, the Committee of Antiquities of the Royal Irish Academy set out to explore this ancient mound. The trustees of the Netterville Charity, who owned the Dowth estate, gave permission, and the work was paid for mainly by private subscription, with further aid from the Academy. Mr. Frith, a County Dublin surveyor, directed the excavations, and the Board of Works supplied the tools. Several visits were made to decide how to get inside. Because of its likeness to Newgrange, it was thought to contain a central chamber. Opinions were divided on whether to sink a perpendicular shaft from the top using a well-borer, or drive a horizontal tunnel in from one of the sides towards the centre. The remarkably loose material of the mound caused problems for both plans. There was, however, a passage already open on the western side, and it seemed possible to gain entry that way, at least as far as it could be followed.

42. Ancient stone at Monasterboice used in funeral ritual

    Monasterboice · townland · Louth

    Inside the church door at Monasterboice stands a circular granite stone, believed to be the shaft of a font, upon which every coffin brought for burial is laid after being carried around the graveyard, churches and crosses in a customary path.

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    the architecture of which bespeaks its truly Irish character, and rather early erection. A large circular arch, bearing some similitude to that which we find in the chancel of some of our early chvirches, occupies the eastern gable; biit from the present length of the church, and the obvious termination of the walls externally at that end, Ave are not inclined to attribute this purpose to it. A short distance within the door of this church stands a circular granite stone, like the fragment of a pillar. Upon this, each coffin which comes for interment to this much-used cemetery, is laid for a few minutes after it has been carried round the circuit of the graveyard, the churches, and crosses, according to a defined and well-known path. This circumstance would at once attract the attention of any person accustomed to observe the ceremonial of an Irish funeral, and, even if no further evidence existed, would be highly confirmatory of the antiquity of the church, and of the originally consecrated purpose of this stone. It was probably the shaft of the font. The second church, which stands at some distance from the round tower, and which is much more modern, is thirty-two feet long by thirteen feet six inches broad, and had a remarkably low roof. It is now nearly filled up with a luxuriant elder tree, and was entered by a low, circvilar-arched doorway.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 168

43. Antiquities discovered in railway cuttings near Athlumney

    Athlumney · townland · Meath · 1845–1849

    During railway cuttings on the eastern side of the river near Athlumney, a quantity of interesting antiquities was discovered, including bridle-bits, horse trappings of iron, bronze and silver, rings, buckles, and a large collection of human and animal bones, including a very perfect human skull.

    Read the passage

    cuttings on the eastern side of the river were discovered a quantity of most interesting antiquities, bridle-bits and horse trappings of iron, bronze, and silver, rings, buckles, head-stalls, pey trells, and clasps, &c. ; besides a large collection of bones, both human and those of the lower animals.* While these pages were passing through the press, a most extensive souterrain was discovered in the cutting of the railway on the western bank, just under Athlumney, consisting of a straight passage fifty- three feet and a-half long, eight broad, and six high, branching into two smaller passages which run oiF at right angles from it, and ending in two circular bee-hive shaped chambers, precisely similar to those at Clady, together forming the figure of a cross. The walls of this great cave having risen to a height of about four feet and a half, they then begin to incline, and the roof is formed by enormous flag-stones laid across ; these stones are all rough and undressed, and are placed together without mortar or cement. This extensive cave, so recently discovered, will form an additional object of attraction to the tourist. A few bones of oxen are all that have as yet been found in it.f

    The meeting of the waters of the Boyne and Blackwater at Navan forms the natu.ral division between the second and third portions of the former. Let us in the next chapter follow and describe the course of the latter.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Athlumney, somewhere around here, railway cuttings turned up a remarkable collection of antiquities between 1845 and 1849. On the eastern side of the river, workers found bridle-bits, horse trappings of iron, bronze and silver, rings, buckles, head-stalls, pey trells and clasps, along with a large collection of human and animal bones, including a very perfect human skull. Then, on the western bank, just under Athlumney, a most extensive souterrain came to light. It was a straight passage 53 and a half feet long, 8 broad and 6 high, branching into two smaller passages running off at right angles, and ending in two circular bee-hive shaped chambers similar to those at Clady, together forming the figure of a cross. The walls rose to about 4 and a half feet before they began to incline, and the roof was made of enormous rough, undressed flagstones laid across without mortar or cement. Only a few oxen bones were found inside it.

44. Battle of Ard-Maelchon, 968 AD

    Ardmulchan · townland · Meath · 968

    In the year 968, Amlaff Cuaran with his Danes and a party of Leinstermen plundered Kells, carried off cattle, and gained a victory over the southern Hy-Neill at Ard-Maelchon (Ardmulchan).

    Read the passage

    In the year 968, AmlafF Cuaran, with his Danes, and a party of Leinstermen, plundered Kells, and carried off a vast prey of cows, and gained a victory over the southern Hy-Neill at Ard-Maelchon.*

    Ardmulchan belonged at one period to the Earl of Kildare. By an inquisition taken in the tenth year of the reign of James I., it was found that in the parish church of St. Mary (Ardmulchan) was a perj)etual chantry of one priest, who was constantly to celebrate service therein, and this chantry was a body corporate. It at present belongs to the rectory of Painstown. A very beautiful well below this spot is worthy of attention ; and a short distance beyond the church we meet with an ancient military fort, consisting of a circular mound, enclosed with a fosse and rampart. A grove of ash- trees now covers the entire, their tall, slender stems permitting the outline of this ancient relic to be seen at a considerable distance, while their feathery tops form an umbrageous shadow to the whole. Miss Beaufort, in her learned "Essay upon the State of Architecture and Antiquities previous to the landing of the Anglo-Normans in Ireland,"! informs us that a kistvaen or small stone chamber was discovered at Ardmulchan some years back, by a gentleman, in removing an artificial tumulus. It contained several skeletons, urns, and some golden ornaments. Into a deep pool in the river, opposite Taaffe's lock, called Lug-Gurrom, or the Blue Hole, it is said that the bells of this church were thrown at the time of the Reformation.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 102

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ardmulchan, in the year 968, Amlaff Cuaran, with his Danes and a party of Leinstermen, plundered Kells and carried off a vast prey of cows. He then gained a victory over the southern Hy-Neill at Ard-Maelchon, the place whose name lives on here as Ardmulchan. Ardmulchan belonged at one period to the Earl of Kildare. An inquisition taken in the 10th year of the reign of James I found that in the parish church of St. Mary here was a perpetual chantry of one priest, who was constantly to celebrate service therein, and this chantry was a body corporate. It belongs at present to the rectory of Painstown. A beautiful well below this spot is worthy of attention. A short distance beyond the church there is an ancient military fort, a circular mound enclosed with a fosse and rampart. A grove of ash trees now covers the whole, their tall slender stems letting the outline of this ancient relic be seen at a considerable distance, while their feathery tops form an umbrageous shadow over all. Miss Beaufort, in her essay on the state of architecture and antiquities previous to the landing of the Anglo-Normans in Ireland, informs us that a kistvaen, or small stone chamber, was discovered at Ardmulchan some years back by a gentleman removing an artificial tumulus. It contained several skeletons, urns, and some golden ornaments. Into a deep pool in the river, opposite Taaffe's lock, called Lug-Gurrom, or the Blue Hole, it is said that the bells of this church were thrown at the time of the Reformation.

45. Burning of the image of the Virgin Mary at Trim, 1538

    Trim · town · Meath · 1538

    At the same time as the Ballybogan crucifix burning, the reformers burned the celebrated image of the Virgin Mary at Trim.

    Read the passage

    Ware's Annals inform us that in 1538 a crucifix which was held in great veneration was here publicly burned ; and Tober- Crogh-neeve, or the Well of the Holy Cross, at the foot of the hill of Carrick, mentioned at page 45, may, perhaps, have derived its name from some connexion therewith. At the same time the reformers burned the celebrated image of the Virgin Mary at Trim, and St. Patrick's Staff (crozier) at Dublin.

    The abbey and surrounding lands at present belong to Lord Lansdowne, who has most creditably placed several buttresses

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Trim in Meath, you are in a town where, in 1538, the reformers burned the celebrated image of the Virgin Mary. It happened at the same time as a crucifix held in great veneration was publicly burned at Ballybogan, and St. Patrick's crozier was burned at Dublin. Ware's Annals record these acts together. The well at the foot of the hill of Carrick, Tober-Crogh-neeve, may perhaps take its name from some connexion with the crucifix burning nearby.

46. Carved font depicting Flight into Egypt and St Finian at Clonard

    Clonard · town · Meath · 1175

    A stone font surviving from Clonard abbey is sculptured with figures in relief representing the Flight into Egypt, the Baptism in the Jordan, St Finian, St Peter, and grotesque figures of Augustinian monks, dating from the rebuilding of the monastery in 1175.

    Read the passage

    sculptured externally, with figures in relief, representing the Flight into Egypt, the Baptism in the Jordan, St. Finian, St. Peter, and various grotesque figures of monks of the Augustinian order ; which latter show that it was carved since the days of Walter De Lacy, on the rebuilding of the monastery in 1 175. The principal figure in the foregoing engraving, that of a bishop with a crozier, is supposed to be that of the founder, St. Finian. As may be seen by referring to the cut, some of the panels are divided per pale, and each small compartment contains a figure. The carvings on this curious relic are well worthy of inspection, and are a rude pictorial representation of scriptural and Irish monastic history and hagiology. The bowl of this font is very deep, and measures about twenty inches across, a sufficient size to permit of immersion, which, it is more than probable, was the form of baptism employed by the early Irish Church. There is an aperture in the bottom of it.

    The third stone to which we alluded is a square trough, probably the lavatory of the ancient monastery. It is rude and undecorated, with a cavity two feet tAvo inches long, by twenty-one inches wide, and about fifteen inches in depth. It rem.ained, until we had it taken up, veiy lately, almost completely buried in the grave-yard, near the present church tower. Like several other hallowed stones, such as piscinas, bolt-holes, and steps or bases of crosses, Avhich are met with on the sites of many of our old churches and religious houses, peculiar superstitious reverence attached to this ancient washing basin as long as it remained over groimd. Like the " Deer-stone" at Glendalough, it was said to have contained water at all times, and to this water peculiar properties were attributed by the peasantry; it was believed to cause the illness and death of geese and all animals which drank it, and it was sought for as an infallible remedy — one of the hundred infallible cures — for warts.*

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Clonard, in Meath. A carved stone font survives here from the old abbey, sculptured externally with figures in relief. The panels show the Flight into Egypt, the Baptism in the Jordan, St. Peter, and St. Finian, along with grotesque figures of monks of the Augustinian order. Those Augustinian monks show the font was carved after the days of Walter De Lacy, when the monastery was rebuilt in 1175. The principal figure is a bishop with a crozier, supposed to be the founder, St. Finian. Some panels are divided per pale, each small compartment holding a figure. The carvings are a rude pictorial representation of scriptural and Irish monastic history. The bowl of the font is very deep, about twenty inches across, wide enough to permit immersion, which was probably the form of baptism used by the early Irish Church. There is an aperture in the bottom. Another stone survived here too, a square trough, likely the lavatory of the ancient monastery. It is rude and undecorated, with a cavity two feet two inches long, twenty-one inches wide, and about fifteen inches deep. It had remained almost completely buried in the graveyard near the present church tower. Like other hallowed stones, peculiar superstitious reverence attached to this ancient washing basin. Like the Deer-stone at Glendalough, it was said to have contained water at all times. That water was believed to cause the illness and death of geese and all animals which drank it, and it was sought as an infallible remedy for warts.

47. Cross moss and mortice water used as cures

    Monasterboice · townland · Louth

    The lichen and moss growing on the crosses at Monasterboice, and the water accumulating in the mortice of the smallest cross, are much sought after by locals for the cure of various diseases.

    Read the passage

    preservation than in any other. It represents the Temptation in Paradise and the Expulsion. In the former subject are figures of Adam and Eve, the tree of knowledge, and the serpent. In the latter is the angel, with an ornamented tunic and long beard, driving our first parent from the garden, whose attitude, as he crouches into a corner, with the palms of his hands turned forwards, as if in entreaty and submission, is very characteristic, and, of its kind, the most expressive of utter helplessness we ever witnessed. On the base are two dogs fighting, one having hold of the other's ear. On other portions of the cross are various emblematic devices of little importance, with the exception of that beneath the northern arm, which represents a very well carved hand holding a paten. The neighbouring peasantry have a legend concerning this, to the eff"ect that it was carved in commemoration of a woman who was impious enough to make a cake on a Sunday, and that it stuck to her hand. The lichen and moss which grow upon this cross are much sought after for the cure of various diseases, as is also the water which accumulates in

    the mortice of the smallest or

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 170

48. Death of Dearvorgail at Mellifont

    Mellifont · townland · Louth · 1193

    Dearvorgail, wife of Tiernan O'Rourke and daughter of Murrough O'Melaghlin, died in the monastery of Mellifont near Drogheda in her eighty-fifth year, according to the Annals of the Four Masters.

    Read the passage

    O'Rourke was on a pilgrimage at Croagh-Patrick at the time, and not at Lough-Dearg, as has generally been stated; and the Irish historians inform us that the Princess of Brefney left her husband's roof, and iled with the King of Leinster, taking with her her ornaments and her cattle, with the knowledge and oven at the instigation of her own brother, O'JMelaghlin, son of the King of Meath. The Annals of the Four Masters inform us tliat " Dearvorgilla (i. e. the wife of Tiernau O'Uourke), daughter of INIurrough O'Melaghlin, died in the monastery of Drogheda [Mellefont], in the eighty-fifth year of her ago." A. 1). 1 193. t It should be remembered also that Mac IMorough was not expelled i'rom his kingdom ibr several years after.

    Civil wars, family feuds, and the rivalry and jealousy of clans and cliieftains, seem, therefore, to have had as marked an iniluence on the destiny of our unhaiipy country at that time, as the jealousy of husbands and lovers.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 22

49. Discovery of subterranean beehive chambers near Clady

    Clady · townland · Antrim

    Two subterranean beehive-domed chambers, built without mortar and connected by a passage, were discovered near Clady church after a cow accidentally broke through a capstone; no weapons, ornaments or bones were found within.

    Read the passage

    In an adjoining plantation, and not above a stone's throw from the church, were lately discovered two subterranean chambers. Each of these crypts is formed entirely of unhewn stones, arranged in the shape of a bee-hive dome, but without mortar or cement, the arch being formed by each tier of stones projecting somewhat within or beyond that beneath, and the summit completed by a large flag, the whole structure being preserved by the pressure and weight of the surrounding earth, for these chambers are quite below the surface ; and it was owing to the accidental circumstance of a cow having pressed in one of the top stones, that a knowledge of their existence was obtained. The first chamber is nine feet broad, and the walls are not indented by either niches or minor crypts. From the floor to the summit measures upwards of nine feet; but owing to the drifting of some fine sand into the interior of these chambers and passages, their apparent altitude is at present much less. A small quadrangular passage, nine feet in length, two and a half high, and three broad, and roofed with large flag-stones laid upon the flat, runs in a northerly direction to another chamber, exactly similar in every respect, but without any other passage leading from it. From the first chamber, a second gallery branches off in a westerly direction, to a distance of about fifteen feet, where its dimensions increase considerably; but from the roof having fallen in, it is not possible at present to investigate it much further. We understand that these chambers were found in this condition when first opened, a few years ago, and did not contain either weapons, ornaments, or any animal remains, which could in any way assist us in pronouncing upon their probable use. Still the antiquary will speculate upon the purposes for which such structures were erected, their ages, and the people by whom they were built. They difter from the sepulchral caves in that the dome springs directly from the floor, and not from a course of upright jiillars, such as we find at New Grange, Dowth, and elsewhere; and in not possessing niches, or minor chambers, which some of the smallest of these latter do, as that in Netterville Park, to which we shall presently allude. The stones are also much smaller, and totally devoid of carvings ; and the existence of passages from one to the other, as well as these chambers being sunk in the earth, and not surrounded by a distinct mound of clay or stones,serve to distinguish them from

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 72

50. Donore church and the Irish army's position

    Donore · town · Meath · 1690

    The ruined church at Donore, locally called 'Done Over,' gives the best vantage point to see the position of the Irish army during the Battle of the Boyne, with a view toward the skirmishing ground near Rosnaree.

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    We would ad\nse those desirous of making a careful examination of the battle-field, and going over the ground contested on the 1st of July, 1690, to go up the river to Oldbridge by boat from Drogheda, which can be easily effected if the tide is in, or to have a boat in waiting there ; and, ha\'ing examined the site of the English position on the south side of the Boyne, to cross over opposite the Obelisk, where a car from Drogheda should be in readiness. Then proceed up the hill, through the battle-field, to Donore, or, as the people here call it, " Done Over" from the ruined church of which the position of the Irish army can be best seen, and a tolerably accurate idea formed of the skirmishing ground near Rosnaree. From Donore cross down to Duleek by the hill to Cruzrath. Duleek is well worthy of a couple of hours' examination. Next proceed up the hill to Bellewstown, and from this by the Naul to Balbriggan, to meet one of the evening trains to Dublin.

    To devote a day to the examination of the great cemetery of Brugh-na- Boinne, the tourist should proceed by rail to Slane, hire a car there, and visit in succession Knowth, New Grange, Dowth, and Netterville, and then, crossing over to Jlonknewtown, get back to Drogheda in time for the evening train. Fraser's admirable "Hand-Book for Travellers in Ireland," and the Monthly Time Bills of the railways, will be found of great service.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 12

51. Douglas's detachment crosses at Slane unopposed

    Slane · townland · Meath · 1690

    William sent a strong detachment of about 15,000 men under Douglas towards Slane, who passed the river without opposition and routed the enemy on that wing.

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    "July the 1st, 1690, ajoyfuUday, excessive hott; about 6 this morning the King got on horseback and gave the necessary orders. Kirke ordered me to bring him some account from the enemy. I brought him a youth, one Fyans, who came that morning from Drogheda.* I carry'd him to the King, who was then standing att the battery, seeing his cannon play att the house of Oldbridge. He had sent early a strong detachment of about 15,000 men with Douglas towards Slane, who pass'd the river without any opposition, and putt the enemy to route Avho were on that wing."

    We have already remarked upon the admirable position of the English army, protected by the immense battery immediately opposite the ford, and screened by the natural lie of the ground. The tide being out, the passage of the river was attempted in four different places. The Blue Dutch guards, the Irish Enniskilleners, and the French Huguenots, led by Caillimotte and the gallant old Schomberg, passed qviickly out of the little glen opposite the principal ford, with drums beating, and dashing into the water both there and over the upper end of Grove Island, a little lower down, formed upon the opposite side, and carried the village and rude outworks at Oldbridge; not, however, without considerable opposition, some of the Irish soldiers rushing into the water to meet them. It was here the brave old Schomberg Avas killed,f and

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 151

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on the first of July 1690, William sent a strong detachment of about 15,000 men under Douglas towards Slane. They passed the river without any opposition and put the enemy to rout who were on that wing. It was part of the wider Battle of the Boyne, fought on a day one witness called "a joyful day, excessive hot." William had gotten on horseback about six that morning and given his orders, and while his cannon played at the house of Oldbridge, Douglas's men crossed here unopposed. The broader battle saw the Blue Dutch guards, the Irish Enniskilleners, and the French Huguenots pass the river at four different places, with drums beating. The brave old Schomberg was killed in the fighting at Oldbridge.

52. Duke of Wellington's birthplace and early days at Trim

    Trim · town · Meath

    The Duke of Wellington's birthplace is noted, along with his early days in connexion with Trim, tying the famous military figure to the town.

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    the races who used them, 40. Well of the Holy Cross, 45. Wells, holy. See Holy Wells. Wellesley family, pedigree of, 31, 32, note. Wellington, Duke of, his birth place, 95 ; his early daj'S in connexion with

    Trim, 9G. White, La-s\Tence, last prior of Newtown, 1533, 102. Witch's Stone, the, on the Hill of Carrick, 42.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 181

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Trim in Meath, this is the town connected with the Duke of Wellington. The record notes his birthplace and his early days in connexion with Trim, tying the famous military figure to this place.

53. English pursuit to the Naul

    Naul · town · Dublin · 1690

    William personally pressed the pursuit of the retreating Irish army towards the Naul, a deep defile about six miles beyond Duleek, before night ended the chase and the English returned to Duleek.

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    skirnaishing occurred at Duleek, but the bridge was soon gained, and William in person pressed on the victorious army in the pursuit, towards the Naul, a deep defile, at another small brook about six miles farther on. Here, night coming on, the pursuit was abandoned, and the English returned to Duleek, where they lay under arms during the night. The diary already quoted thus describes the circumstance. The King " pursued almost as far as the Naul, and left them not till near 10 o'clock at night. I was his guide back to Duleek. We killed about 2000 of theyr men, besides Lords Carlingford, Dangan, and several other officers of ranke killed and taken prisoners. We lost not above 200 in the whole action, many of which were killed by our own men through mistake. I returned to the camp at Oldbridge, having left the King in his coach at Duleek, where he stayed that night. I was almost faint from want of drink and meat."

    All the Williamite authorities worthy of credit bear testimony to the " orderly" and " well-managed retreat" made chiefly by the Irish horse and French foot.*

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 154

54. Escape of Gilla-gan-innaher into the wood of Kilclare

    Kilclare · townland · Offaly · 1186

    After killing Hugh de Lacy, Gilla-gan-innaher escaped by flight into the neighbouring wood of Kilclare, where Irish chieftains were awaiting him, according to the Annals of the Four Masters.

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    And the Four Masters take up the narration of this event, and inform us that Gilla-gan-innaher escaped by flight into the neighbouring wood of Kilclare, where the Irish chieftains Avere awaiting him.

    What a prolific theme for the novelist the stirring dramatic events of this period of Irish history would prove, — what a romance a Sir Walter Scott would have made of the Avhole story of the English invasion, and this incident in particular ; and until some great historical novelist arises, Irish history and Irish scenery and manners will not be known, and consequently not valued, by the educated classes, either here or in England.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 58

55. Fairy raths and the good people

    Clonard · town · Meath

    The peasantry regard raths as inhabited by the fairies or 'good people', whose music is said to be heard within the enchanted precincts on calm summer evenings, and superstition long protected them from being dug into.

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    to be now inhabited by, if not originally the handiwork of the "gentry" or "good people," whose music is said to be often heard within their enchanted precincts, in the calm summer evenings ; and this superstition is strong against their Danish origin.* Although by no means inclined to foster these rude and early prejudices of our people, still we respect them, inasmuch as they have for centuries thrown a magic spell around these enchanted halls, which few were hardy enough to attempt to break. Until very lately, scarcely a peasant in the land would put his spade into one of these mounds or circles; and we have known blood spilled in attempting to force the people to demolish an ancient rath. Sometimes this spoliation arises from ignorance, or want of patriotism, in our farmers and gentry, but often from mere curiosity, or in order to manure or level the land, and frequently, to our own knowledge, for the mere purpose of "breaking down prejudices," and showing the people that no ill-luck or misfortune could possibly occur from their destruction. So much for the veneration for our national monuments ; so much for the reverence for the dust of our ancestors ! It does not bespeak either education, taste, or patriotism, thus wantonly to obliterate these footprints of our early history. While we speculate upon the construction, the uses, and the

    * Giraldus Cambrensis calls some of them Danish ; but, after the publication of Sir T. Molyneux's Discourse on " Danish INIounts, Forts, and Towers," this idea was chiefly propagated by Hugh Boy M'Curtin, whose dissertation was widely circulated among the native Irish.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Clonard in Meath, you are passing old ground where the raths still stand. The country people long held these mounds and circles to be the work of the good people, whose music could be heard within their precincts on calm summer evenings. The superstition ran so deep that few peasants would put a spade into one, and the writer records that blood was spilled when someone tried to force the people to demolish an ancient rath. Some farmers and gentry levelled the mounds out of ignorance or curiosity, or to manure the land, or simply to prove no ill-luck would follow, which the writer calls the wanton obliteration of the footprints of early history.

56. Founding of Monasteroris Abbey, 1325

    Monasteroris · townland · Offaly · 1325

    Sir John de Bermingham, Earl of Louth, founded an abbey in 1325 for conventual Franciscans at Totmoy in Offaly, giving rise to the name Monaster-Feoris.

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    Sir John de Bermingham, Earl of Louth, founded an abbey in the year 1325, for conventual Franciscans, at Totmoy, in Offaly, the ancient name of this territory ; and from the Irish name of this chieftain it was called Monaster-Feoris. In 1511,

    * See the Annals of the Four Masters, A. D. 1151, 1446, &c. ; also the Annals of Ireland in theMiscellany of the Irish Archajoloi^ical Society, from p. 202 to p. 234 ; also Archdall's Moriasticon ; see also O' Donovan's Dissertation on Irish Names, in the Irish Penny .Tournal, 184, edited by Dr. Petrie, and publisiied by Guiin and Cameron, Dublin.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 29

57. Great earthen forts and royal palace site at Teltown

    Teltown · townland · Meath

    At Teltown, a large earthen fort and remains of two other forts of immense size mark the site of the early Pagan settlement and palace of Tailtean, one of Ireland's four royal residences.

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    feet, amidst the most fertile grazing lands in Meatli, if not in Ireland, may be seen a large earthen fort, about a furlong's length to the right of the road, with a few hollows or excavations in the adjoining lands, apparently the sites of small, dried up lakes ; and to the left of the road, nearly opposite these, parts of the trench and embankments of two other forts, which, judging from the portions still remaining, must have been of immense size, greater even than any of those now existing at Tara. These mark the sites of the early Pagan settlement, and the position of the palace of Tailtean, one of the four royal residences which existed in Ireland in very early times.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 92

58. King James stays overnight at Duleek

    Duleek · town · Meath · 1690

    Colonel Bellingham's diary records returning the King to Duleek, where James remained in his coach for the night after the pursuit was abandoned.

    Read the passage

    skirnaishing occurred at Duleek, but the bridge was soon gained, and William in person pressed on the victorious army in the pursuit, towards the Naul, a deep defile, at another small brook about six miles farther on. Here, night coming on, the pursuit was abandoned, and the English returned to Duleek, where they lay under arms during the night. The diary already quoted thus describes the circumstance. The King " pursued almost as far as the Naul, and left them not till near 10 o'clock at night. I was his guide back to Duleek. We killed about 2000 of theyr men, besides Lords Carlingford, Dangan, and several other officers of ranke killed and taken prisoners. We lost not above 200 in the whole action, many of which were killed by our own men through mistake. I returned to the camp at Oldbridge, having left the King in his coach at Duleek, where he stayed that night. I was almost faint from want of drink and meat."

    All the Williamite authorities worthy of credit bear testimony to the " orderly" and " well-managed retreat" made chiefly by the Irish horse and French foot.*

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 154

59. Laracor parish church and the Wellesley monument

    Laracor · townland · Meath

    The old parish church at Laracor is where Swift raced Delany and where 'my dearly beloved Roger' officiated as clerk; within it is a monument to the last Wesley or Wellesley, who bequeathed his name and estate to the ancestor of the Duke of Wellington.

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    In front of this residence stands a very perfect sepulchral mound, similar to that which we described already at Clonard, but very much smaller; and beyond this we find the old parish church, to which Swift ran the race with Delany, and where " my dearly beloved Roger" officiated as clerk. Wil^Jiin this Church we find a handsome monument erected to the last Wesley, or Wellesley, who bequeathed his name and his estate to the ancestor of the present Duke of Wellington.

    About a mile nearer Trim is pointed out the cottage which Stella and Mrs. Dingley occupied; but this is somewhat apocryphal.

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 60

60. Plunder of the little church of Teltown

    Teltown · townland · Meath · 1156–1170

    The ruins of Cill-Tailltean, the little church of Teltown, were plundered by Diarmaid Mac Murchadha and the Danes in 1156, and again by the same prince with the English in 1170.

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    In the valley, by the water's edge, about midway between these two places, and beside a broad curve of the river, we meet the ruins of Cill-Tailltean, the little church of Teltown, Avhich was plundered by Diarmaid Mac Murchadha and the Danes in 1 156, and again by the same prince and the English in 1 1 70, in their marauding excursions among the rich churches of East Meath.

    We now arrive at Donaghpatrick, which takes its name from Domnach-Padraig, the ancient church of Patrick, which formerly stood here, on the site now occupied by the modern parish church. This was iha '■'■ Ecclesia Patricii Magna,'''' t)a.Q Domnach Mor, or great church, sixty feet long, so frequently alluded to in our Irish hagiology,* one of the earliest daimhlaigs, or stone sacred edifices, erected in Ireland after the in-

    Internet Archive beautiesofboynei00wild, Chapter 94