Black's guide to Galway, Connemara, and the west of Ireland

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Battle of Aughrim, 1691

   Aughrim · parish · Galway · 1691

   Five miles from Ballinasloe at Aughrim, the forces of William III under De Ginckell defeated those of James II under St. Ruth on July 12, 1691. St. Ruth was slain and buried on the spot marked by St. Ruth's Bush, and the battle is commemorated annually by Orangemen on 'The Twelfth.'

   Read the passage

   Five miles distant is Aghrim, the scene of the battle (July 12, 1691) between the forces of William III. under De Ginckell and those of James II. under St. Ruth, in which the latter were completely defeated and their commander slain (St. Ruth's Bush marks the spot where he was buried). This battle is annually commemorated by the Orangemen on "The Twelfth." Twenty-two miles west of Ballinasloe is

   Athenry {Hotel: Railway, near station), of much interest to the antiquarian, while a visit to the Dominican Friary will repay the general tourist ; but the village — once a royal town — is now poverty-stricken, although still a great hunting centre, the famous "Galway Blazers" meeting here. The town was walled in 1211, and was not long in attracting foes. Its history has been a tragic onu, bristling with the terrors of war. When the Earls of Glanricarde in 1577 swept the land of Connaught with fire and sword Athenry buried its full share of the slain. Again, however, it rose from its ruins, but only to fall before "Red Hugh's" destroying hand. Sacked and burnt, it never recovered from this savage blow.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 7

   As the companion tells it

   As the road passes through the parish of Aughrim, about five miles from Ballinasloe, you are near the ground where, on July 12, 1691, the forces of William III under De Ginckell met those of James II under St. Ruth. The Jacobite forces were completely defeated, and their commander St. Ruth was slain. He was buried where he fell, and St. Ruth's Bush marks the place. The battle is commemorated annually by Orangemen on The Twelfth. Further west lies Athenry, twenty-two miles from Ballinasloe, of interest to the antiquarian, its Dominican Friary worth a visit. The village was once a royal town but is now poverty-stricken, though it remains a great hunting centre where the famous Galway Blazers meet. The town was walled in 1211 and soon attracted foes. Its history has been a tragic one, bristling with the terrors of war. When the Earls of Glanricarde in 1577 swept the land of Connaught with fire and sword, Athenry buried its full share of the slain. It rose from its ruins, only to fall before the destroying hand of Red Hugh. Sacked and burnt, it never recovered.

2. Limerick sieges and the Treaty Stone

   Limerick · city · Limerick · 1651–1691

   Limerick was taken by General Ireton in 1651. William III's siege of 1690 was raised by Sarsfield's defence, but 13 months later Ginckell forced Sarsfield to sign the treaty upon the Treaty Stone. The city became known as the City of the Violated Treaty.

   Read the passage

   The portion on "King's island" called English Town was founded in the reign of King John by William do Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifications were extended to Irish Town south of it. The city in 1651 was taken by General Ireton. William III.'s siege of 1690, owing chiefly to Sarsfield's energetic defence, was raised ; but 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sar.sfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way in which the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769.

   Bridges. — English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Mathow [Killarney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occupying the site of a bi'idge of great antiquity. Thomond Bridge, also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects English town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the bridge stands the "Treaty Stone" mentioned above.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 10

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Limerick, you are moving through a city shaped by siege and broken promise. English Town, on King's Island, was founded in the reign of King John by William de Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century the fortifications were extended south into Irish Town. In 1651 the city was taken by General Ireton. William III laid siege in 1690, but Sarsfield's energetic defence raised it. Thirteen months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sarsfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated by the name the city came to carry, the City of the Violated Treaty. That stone stands on the Clare side of Thomond Bridge, which connects English Town with County Clare and occupies the site of a very ancient structure. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769.

3. Lynch's hanging of his son at Dead-man's Lane

   Lombard Street · street · Galway · 1493

   According to tradition, James Lynch Fitz-Stephen executed his own son by hanging him from a window in Lombard Street, also known as Dead-man's Lane, on the north side of St. Nicholas' Church. A skull and crossbones and inscription mark the spot.

   Read the passage

   After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at tlie west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

   GALWAY 207

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam

   As the companion tells it

   Along here on Lombard Street is Dead-man's Lane, where tradition says James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, mayor of Galway in 1493, hanged his own son from a window. The son had "in a fit of jealousy murdered a rival in love." The whole town interceded for the young man, but the father carried out the sentence himself. A skull and crossbones and inscription mark the spot on the north side of St. Nicholas' Church. Lynch also built the choir of that church and put painted glass in the windows.

4. Clonmacnoise nunnery church of Devorgil

   Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 1150–1199

   A small nuns' church about half a mile from Clonmacnoise was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Devorgil, wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Brefny. Its round-headed doorway and chancel arch remain, richly ornamented with zigzag and beaded carvings and weird sculpted faces.

   Read the passage

   The gem of the whole collection, however, might very easily be missed. This is the ruin of the mmnery about \ mile away. To find it follow the rough field road leading oft" on the east to a clump of trees, and by means of a stile enter the precincts. This little nuns' church was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Devorgil, the very flighty wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Brefny, and the cause of the English Conquest of 1172. A round-headed doorway and the chancel arch remain, and are rich in ornament, both zigzag and beaded, and are illuminated by weird suspicious faces full of witchery. The keystone of the arch has been roughly restored in order to hold it together, but wisely no attempt has been made to imitate what is inimitable.

   (For detailed accounts see those by Fetrie, and Dr. Stokes, U.S. A. I. Joxmi. 1890.)

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 7

5. Athenry town walls and destruction

   Athenry · town · Galway · 1211–1600

   Athenry was walled in 1211 and suffered a tragic history of war. The Earls of Glanricarde swept Connaught with fire and sword in 1577, and the town later fell to Red Hugh's destroying hand, being sacked and burnt, never recovering from the blow. By the time of writing it was a poverty-stricken village, though once a royal town.

   Read the passage

   Athenry {Hotel: Railway, near station), of much interest to the antiquarian, while a visit to the Dominican Friary will repay the general tourist ; but the village — once a royal town — is now poverty-stricken, although still a great hunting centre, the famous "Galway Blazers" meeting here. The town was walled in 1211, and was not long in attracting foes. Its history has been a tragic onu, bristling with the terrors of war. When the Earls of Glanricarde in 1577 swept the land of Connaught with fire and sword Athenry buried its full share of the slain. Again, however, it rose from its ruins, but only to fall before "Red Hugh's" destroying hand. Sacked and burnt, it never recovered from this savage blow.

   Entering by the gateway in the still remaining walls you have on the left the 13th-century Cusl/c, with its lofty gabled keep. In the centre of the town is the remnant of an ancient

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 7

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here are the walls of Athenry, put up in 1211. The town was not long in attracting foes, and its history is a tragic one of war. The Earls of Glanricarde swept Connaught with fire and sword in 1577, and Athenry buried its full share of the slain. It rose from those ruins, but only to fall before Red Hugh's destroying hand. Sacked and burnt, it never recovered from that blow. Once a royal town, it was a poverty-stricken village by the time of writing, though still a hunting centre where the Galway Blazers met.

6. Lynch Fitz-Stephen and St. Nicholas's Church, 1493

   Galway · city · Galway · 1493

   James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, mayor of Galway in 1493, built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end and installed painted glass in the windows. He is the famous Warden who allegedly tried and executed his own son for murder.

   Read the passage

   After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at tlie west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 22

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Galway, you are near St. Nicholas's Church. In 1493 James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, the mayor, built the choir at the west end of the church and put painted glass in the windows. He is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son. The son, in a fit of jealousy, had murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his duty, carried out the sentence himself.

7. The Siege of Athlone, 1691

   Athlone · town · Westmeath · 1691

   Athlone Castle underwent a famous siege in 1691 when General Ginckell captured the town from the Jacobite garrison, forcing the subsequent Battle of Aughrim. Cannonballs from the siege were still visible in Athlone.

   Read the passage

   The earliest fort seems to have occupied the Celtic " dun " near the present bridge, in the far-off time when the crossing was made over the fords ; and whe" troops and travellers knew well the hostelry and the history alike of that ancient taverner, one " Luan," to whom our best scholars trace the latter pai-t of the name of the town. It seems strange that the place should be connected with Korwich, but it is reliable history that the Bishop of the most eastern city of England built here in 1213 the central castle of Ireland, and we shall find more of this builder-bishop's work at Clonmacnois. The castle has had an eventful record of assaults and sieges, but of none more famous than the siege of 1691, when GinckoU captured Athlone, and so forced the battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. At first the garrison under Grace, and, Later St. Euth, who held the castle for James II., stood firm, but the heavy fire of GinckeU's men and their last assault utterly broke the Irish defence.

   " It seems hard for us to conceive how, in the siege of 1691, any part of the town can have escaped utter destruction, as the batteries were all arranged along the river bank on the site of the present Strand Street, with outlying batteries. . . . But we must remember that the siege guns and powder of two hundred years ago did not carry their projectiles much farther than a couple of hundred yards. Specimens of the cannon balls used in the siege can still be seen in Athlone " (Professor Stokes). The present bridge replaces the old Elizabethan structure which was the scene of the siege (see Professor Stokes's " Guide to Athlone," an UTieommonly useful sixpenny -worth).

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up through Athlone now, a town built around one of the oldest crossing points on the Shannon. The name itself may stretch back to a taverner called Luan, who kept a hostelry by the fords in times before the bridge. A bishop from the easternmost city of England raised the castle here in 1213, calling it the central castle of Ireland, and it has worn an eventful record of sieges ever since. The most famous was in 1691, when General Ginkel's guns pounded the town and his men stormed the walls. The Jacobite garrison, held first by Grace and then by St. Ruth for James the Second, stood firm for a time, but the heavy fire and the final assault broke the Irish defence entirely. Ginkel's capture of Athlone forced the French and Irish to give battle soon after at Aughrim. The batteries had lined the river bank, along the site of what is now Strand Street. As one writer put it, it seems hard to conceive how any part of the town escaped utter destruction. The siege guns of that era did not carry far, though, only a couple of hundred yards. You can still find cannon balls from the bombardment kept here in Athlone. The bridge you cross replaces the old Elizabethan structure that was itself the scene of the fighting.

8. Garbally House and Sheep Fair, Ballinasloe

   Ballinasloe · town · Galway

   Garbally House, seat of the Earl of Clancarty, stands on the right entering Ballinasloe. During the Sheep Fair the whole inner park is devoted to some 20,000 bleating sheep.

   Read the passage

   uncommon sight, presents a scene of overcrowding and business quite unique of its kind in Ireland. The stationmaster gives place to the barmaid of the refreshments and the lady-clerk of the telegraph ; in the cloak-room beds are substituted for valises ; and confusion reigns everywhere. On your right, as you enter the town, is Garbally House (Earl of Clancarty), and during the Sheep Fair the whole inner park is devoted to the use of some 20,000 bleating sheep. Within the town is bustle and bargaining. Exorbitant jarvies and excited horse-boys fill the road, or attempt, ■with maximum risk to life and limb, to thread their way through the groups of gaitered farmers. The latter are the most interesting figures on the street. Some, you will find, are remarkably tall, but none stout ; at our last visit to the fair, the fat farmer was as much a rara avis as a drunken one. On the look-out for mischief is the customary cordon of police, — a painful element of Irish gatherings at present ; and the dresses of the girls give colour to a crowd which, to an English eye, is as novel as it is interesting.

   Five miles distant is Aghrim, the scene of the battle (July 12, 1691) between the forces of William III. under De Ginckell and those of James II. under St. Ruth, in which the latter were completely defeated and their commander slain (St. Ruth's Bush marks the spot where he was buried). This battle is annually commemorated by the Orangemen on "The Twelfth." Twenty-two miles west of Ballinasloe is

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 7

   As the companion tells it

   Coming through Ballinasloe in Galway, Garbally House, seat of the Earl of Clancarty, stands as you enter the town. During the Sheep Fair, the whole inner park is given over to some 20,000 bleating sheep, an uncommon sight that presents a scene of overcrowding and business quite unique of its kind in Ireland. The stationmaster gives place to the barmaid of the refreshments and the lady-clerk of the telegraph. In the cloak-room, beds are substituted for valises, and confusion reigns everywhere. Within the town is bustle and bargaining. Exorbitant jarvies and excited horse-boys fill the road, or attempt, with maximum risk to life and limb, to thread their way through the groups of gaitered farmers. The farmers are the most interesting figures on the street. Some are remarkably tall, but none stout. At one visitor's last trip to the fair, the fat farmer was, as the book says, as much a rara avis as a drunken one. On the look-out for mischief is the customary cordon of police, a painful element of Irish gatherings at present. The dresses of the girls give colour to a crowd which, to an English eye, is as novel as it is interesting.

9. Adare's rise, decline and revival under the Earls of Dunraven

   Adare · townland · Limerick · 1226–1850

   Adare's history began with an early fort (rath) on which Normans built a castle in the twelfth century. The town grew enough to receive a royal grant for an annual fair in 1226, but by the early 1800s had dwindled to fewer than two dozen thatched cottages before revival under the second Earl of Dunraven from 1824.

   Read the passage

   The history of Adare goes back to the erection of the Rath, the early fort on which the castle of the Normans was built about the twelfth century. Around this and the church, also built then by the invaders, grew the Norman town which was populous enough in 1226 to obtain the English king's grant for an annual fair. Then large religious houses were established, and the town enclosed within walls, which have now practically disappeared. "At the commencement of the present century Adare had dwindled down to a collection of thatched cottages," numbering less than two dozen {Dunraven Memorials) ; but with the coming of the second Earl of Dunraven (1824-1850), fortune smiled upon it again.

   The Village Gate of Adare Manor is opposite the hotel. For a view of the Rouse turn right wlien the path forks within. It is a fine modern mansion built in 1832, and " the greater portion " was " designed by an amateur, a mason named Conolly, . . . not a single drawing having been furnished by an architect " (Memorials). The special feature to note is the beautiful modern oak carving on overmantels, staircase, etc., all done by local talent.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 12

10. Battle of Castlebar, 1798: the 'Castlebar Races'

    Castlebar · town · Mayo · 1798

    During the 1798 rebellion, a small French force engaged roughly equal English militia at Castlebar. The English, poorly supplied with ammunition and mostly raw militia, fled, giving the encounter the facetious name 'Castlebar Races.' A memorial slab to the Fraser Highlanders who fell was erected in the church by Colonel Fraser.

    Read the passage

    Castlebar {Hotels : (I.A.C., C.) Imperial ; Read's), the county town. Station about 1 mile from the town. In the rebellion of 1798 Castlebar gained notoriety from an engagement between a small French force and a party of English soldiers. The contending parties were nearly equal in number, being about 1000 strong each. The English were but badly provided with ammunition, and, with the exception of a party of the Eraser Fencibles, were raw militia. The encounter is yet facetiously alluded to as the " Castlebar Races." A slab to the memory of the Eraser Highlanders who fell in the action was erected in the church by Colonel Fraser.

    In Castlebar was executed in 1786 the notorious George Robert Fitzgerald, better known as "Fighting Fitzgerald." His residence was at Turlongh, about 4 miles east of Castlebar, where his remains rest among some ruins in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower. From the railway we obtain a good view of Croagh Patrick before reaching Westport (p. 230).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Castlebar, the county town of Mayo. In 1798 this place gave its name to a debacle still called the Castlebar Races. A small French force, about 1000 strong, met roughly the same number of English soldiers. The English were badly provided with ammunition, and apart from the Fraser Fencibles they were raw militia. They fled, and the affair was remembered with a joke. A slab in the church, put up by Colonel Fraser, marks the Fraser Highlanders who fell in the action. Castlebar has an older grim story too. In 1786 George Robert Fitzgerald, known as Fighting Fitzgerald, was executed here. He had lived at Turlough, about 4 miles east, and his remains lie among ruins in the demesne there, overlooked by an ancient round tower.

11. High Cross of the Scriptures at Clonmacnois

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 914

    The High Cross, or Cross of the Scriptures, at Clonmacnois is possibly the most beautiful of all ancient Irish crosses. Its inscriptions state that Colman made the cross for King Flann, dating it to 914, with elaborate carving depicting Christ in judgment and St. Kieran building the adjoining church.

    Read the passage

    Within the enclosure, near the above, is the famous High Cross (or " Cross of the Scriptures "), possibly the most beautiful in form and decoration of all the ancient crosses, unless perhaps the coeval "High Cross" at Mouasterboice be alone excepted. From the inscriptions, which state that Colman "made this cross on the King Flann," the date has been fixed by Miss Stokes at a.d. 914. The elaborate carving represents Christ in judgment, and the building of the adjoining church by St. Kieran.

    Close by is tlie Cathedral (or Temple MacDermot) built in 904 by King Flann Sinna and the Abbot Colman. It appears to have been rebuilt in 1089 and again in the 14th century, but the west doorway evidently survives from the earlier building. Notice the " antae " or wall-ends, so often found jutting out from the Irish west-fronts. One of the chief features is the rich north-side door, late, and carved in "perpendicular" style. St. Patrick is noticed above, between SS. Francis and Dominic (observe the quaint gi'in on the central face).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 6

12. St. Senan's monastery on Scattery Island

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare · 500–900

    St. Senan founded cells and oratories on Scattery Island in the 6th century and died in 544. The monastery attracted notable figures including Kieran of Clonmacnoise and was destroyed twice by Norsemen in the 9th century, devastated by Brian Boru, plundered by the Danes, and captured by the English.

    Read the passage

    The older name of Scattery is Inis (the island) Cathaig (of the Cathach). The latter was a monster, mastered and chained by St. Senan, who founded in the 6th century cells and oratories in County Cork, the islands of the Fergus, on Mutton Island, and upon this island. He died in 544, and is revered as patron in several French churches. The monastery became famous and attracted Kieran, founder of Clonmacuoise, who became an official. Even St. Aidan, " founder of Lindisfarne, and consequently predecessor of the Bishops of Durham," may perhaps have been the Aidan who lived here. We read of the house being destroyed twice in the 9th century by Norsemen, devastated by Brian Boru, plundered by the Danes, and captured and long held by the English. Granted as a fishing village to Limerick in later days, it passed to the mayor of that city, who "asserted his rights by shooting an arrow into the river west of the island " {KiUarney Sect. p. 115).

    The legend of St. Cauuara, which Moore has put into verse, tells how that holy nun sailed to Senan's island to make her request —

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 15

13. Ballinasloe Great October Fair

    Ballinasloe · town · Galway

    Ballinasloe hosts a celebrated horse and cattle fair, ranked next to Dublin's in importance, beginning on the first Tuesday of October and lasting nearly a week. The town becomes a scene of overcrowding, bargaining, and bustle, with horse-box trains, exorbitant jarvies, and gaitered farmers filling the streets.

    Read the passage

    Though annually announced for the first Tuesday in October, and the four following days, this celebrated horse and cattle fair, which has generally ranked next to the Dublin fair in importance, practically begins with, if not before, dawn on the Monday of that week, and lasts till the crush and the fun of Saturday are over. Good horses, indeed, are quickly snapped up, and the purchaser who arrives on Tuesday will find himself "out of it " by twenty-four hours.

    The station, where a train of thirty or forty horse-boxes is no

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 7

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Ballinasloe in Galway, a town famous for its October horse and cattle fair. It's announced for the first Tuesday of October and four following days, but really it starts at dawn on Monday and runs through Saturday. The fair ranks next to Dublin's in importance. Good horses are snapped up early, and anyone arriving on Tuesday will find themselves, in the source's words, "out of it" by twenty-four hours. A train of thirty or forty horse-boxes pulls into the station.

14. Corrig-a-Howly castle and Grace O'Malley's dismissal of her husband

    Newport · town · Mayo

    According to tradition recorded by Otway, Grace O'Malley placed her own men in McWilliam's castles during their one-year marriage, then dismissed her husband Sir Richard Bourke from the castle of Corrig-a-Howly near Newport. The marriage contract supposedly allowed either party to dissolve the union by saying 'I dismiss you.'

    Read the passage

    ' I dismiss you,' the union was dissolved. It is said that during that year Grana took good care to put her own creatures in all M 'William's eastward castles that were valuable to her, and then, one fine day, as the Lord of Mayo was coming up to the castle of Corrig-a-Howly, near Newport, Grana spied him, and cried out the dissolving words, 'I dismiss you.' We are not told how M 'William took the snapping of the matrimonial chain. It is likely that he was not sorry to have a safe riddance of such a virago." Grace was invited to London by Queen Elizabeth, who tried various ways of showing her attentions ; but the wild daughter of the west could not appreciate the kindness of her entertainer.

    Westport to Achill Island (26J miles hy train, and 9 on to Dugort by road). The route embraces varied views of the mountains and of Clew Bay. At Newport, finely situated on Clew Bay, there is an hotel, and fishing on the Newport River and in the Beltra Lakes. In the neighbourhood are the ruins Burrishoole Abbey, and a beautiful glen in the heart of the mountains.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 36

15. Galway given to de Burgo and the Tribes

    Galway · city · Galway · 1200–1299

    In the 13th century Galway was given to Richard de Burgo, who fortified it and settled enterprising families. The principal thirteen settler families became known as the 'tribes' of Galway. Before this, the town was under O'Flaherty protection.

    Read the passage

    Almost nothing is known of the history of Galway until the arrival of the English, when the town and adjoining district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to Rich, de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, the principal families of whom, thirteen in number, were known as the "tribes" of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it acquired great commercial importance, and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street.

    After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at tlie west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Coming into Galway, you are entering a town whose written history begins with the arrival of the English. Before that, the town and its surrounding district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century Galway was given to Richard de Burgo. He strengthened its fortifications and brought in a number of enterprising settlers. The principal settler families, 13 in number, became known as the tribes of Galway. In 1270 the town walls were built, 60 years after the fortifying of Athenry. Very soon after, Galway acquired great commercial importance and was much frequented by Spanish merchants. The intercourse with Spain is ascribed to certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street. After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered in 1691 their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, mayor in 1493, built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end and put painted glass in the windows. This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him.

16. Subterranean river and the 'great blunder' canal between Loughs Corrib and Mask

    Cong · parish · Galway

    Loughs Corrib and Mask are joined by a river that runs underground for three-fourths of its course, reappearing in the Mill Pond 72 feet deep. An attempt to connect the lakes by canal failed due to the porous limestone, earning it the name 'great blunder' after enormous sums were spent.

    Read the passage

    Loughs Corrib and Mask are joined by a river, which for threefourths of its course has a subterranean stream, and reappears again in the Mill Pond, 72 feet in depth. An attempt was made to connect the lakes by a canal, afterwards called the "great blunder," but the porous character of the limestone rendered the enterprise abortive, after enormous sums of money had been expended on it. It is indeed this characteristic of the limestone that explains the subterranean passage made by the river. At various places there are openings where the course of the stream may be seen.

    The most remarkable of the caverns is the Pigeon Hole (Pollna-g-columb), so called from the fact that it was at one time fiequented by pigeons. The Pigeon Hole may be reached

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 42

17. Wreck of the Intrinsic near Kilkee, 1835

    Kilkee · town · Clare · 1835

    The ship Intrinsic perished in 1835 near Kilkee amid scenes of great distress. A seagull was seen hovering above the sinking ship and drowning women, then flew shoreward and dropped a lady's glove among the people on the cliff.

    Read the passage

    Intrinsic perished in 1835, amid scenes of great distress. Above the sinking ship and drowning women a seagull was seen to hover ; and soon after the same bird turned shoreward and dropped among the people on the cliff a lady's glove.

    The Cave of Kilkee is about 2 miles from the town, and is best visited by boat from the harbour, a fine view being in this way obtained of the cliff scenery along the shore. The arched entrance to the cave is about 60 feet in height. Our attention is at once attracted by the numerous jutting rocks, the stalactites depending from the roof, and the " variety of rich metallic tinges from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water." As we proceed into the cave it gradually diminishes in height.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Kilkee, you are near where the ship Intrinsic perished in 1835, amid scenes of great distress. People on the cliff watched the ship sink and women drown in the water below. A seagull was seen hovering above the wreck, and then the same bird turned shoreward and dropped among the people on the cliff a lady's glove.

18. Cong Abbey: burial place of King Roderic O'Connor

    Cong · parish · Galway · 1129–1198

    St Feichin of Fore built a church at Cong early in the 7th century, and the abbey was founded in 1129. King Roderic O'Connor, last monarch of Ireland, died there after fifteen years of cloister life in the late 12th century. The ruins include three transitional doorways, a monks' fishing-house, and the reputed grave of King Rory.

    Read the passage

    St. Feichin of Fore, who erected churches early in the 7th century on High Island (page 223), built here also a church. The abbey was founded in 1129, by whom is unknown. Afterwards, in the last part of the 12th century. King Roderic O'Connor, the last monarch of Ireland, died, after 15 years of cloister life, within these buildings. Petrie considers that most of the remaining walls date from the monkking's time.

    After entering, follow the path till another goes back (right) at an acute angle to the cloister. Here we have a piece of uncommon "restoration." The arcadiug at the four corners above the bases of the shafts is modern, and was designed and erected by a local stone-mason.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 41

19. Clonmacnoise Episcopal Castle ruins

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 1210–1662

    The Episcopal Castle outside the cemetery of Clonmacnoise was built by John de Gray, Bishop of Norwich, around 1210. Cromwell's soldiers attempted to blow it up but failed, and the ruins remain in the same state 250 years later.

    Read the passage

    Tower, ou the ground level. " The ruins of the Episcopal Castle outside the cemetery of Clonmacuois are very striking ; it is still in exactly the same state as Cromwell left it 250 years ago, when his soldiers attempted in vain to blow it up. It was originally built by John de Gray, Bishop of Norwich, about the ytar 1210."

    The gem of the whole collection, however, might very easily be missed. This is the ruin of the mmnery about \ mile away. To find it follow the rough field road leading oft" on the east to a clump of trees, and by means of a stile enter the precincts. This little nuns' church was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Devorgil, the very flighty wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Brefny, and the cause of the English Conquest of 1172. A round-headed doorway and the chancel arch remain, and are rich in ornament, both zigzag and beaded, and are illuminated by weird suspicious faces full of witchery. The keystone of the arch has been roughly restored in order to hold it together, but wisely no attempt has been made to imitate what is inimitable.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 7

20. Collooney and planned railway to Belmullet

    Collooney · townland · Sligo

    Collooney came into prominence in connection with a planned railway to Belmullet, intended to form a link in the 'All-Red Route' between Great Britain, Canada, and Australia. The 90-mile line's terminus was to be at Blacksod Bay, potentially saving 24 hours on the journey.

    Read the passage

    Collooney has come into prominence in connection with the railway to Belmullet planned to form a link in the "All-Red Route " between Great Britain, Canada, and Australia. The new line is 90 miles long, and the terminus is to be at Blacksod Bay. By this method it is reckoned that 24 hours can be saved on the journey. Belmullet Harbour is one of the finest in Ireland, and the new harbour works will adapt it to receive a line of ocean steamers.

    Having thus completed the tour of the cross-line between Limerick and Sligo, we may resume our journey westward from where we left it off at Athenry (p. 187) en route for Galway.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 21

21. Dugort Protestant settlement in famine times

    Doogort · townland · Mayo · 1847

    Dugort, the chief town of Achill on the north coast, was a Protestant settlement established during the famine of 1847 by methods described as 'not altogether questionable.' It was growing as a tourist resort.

    Read the passage

    The chief town is Dugort on the north, where are the hotels mentioned above. Mr. Sheridan who owns the Slievemore is known far and wide as one of the proprietor-hosts of Ireland. The Strand Hotel is on the beach, wliere there is a magnificent strand and huts for the accommodation of bathers. Seal-shooting may be had, and white and brown trout fishing oflF the sand-banks. Dugort is a Protestant settlement established in the famine times of '47 by not altogether unquestionable methods. The little place is growing more and more popular as a tourist resort. Long cars meet the midday trains at Achill Sound.

    The highest summit on the island is Slievemore (2204 feet), the ascent of which is comparatively easy. Cuoagiiaun (2192 feet) is noticeable on account of its extraordinary cliffs descend ing to the Atlantic, in a steep incline of 60 degrees. They are

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 38

22. Edgeworthstown: home of Maria Edgeworth

    Edgeworthstown · town · Longford

    Edgeworthstown was the family home retained through all vicissitudes, where Maria Edgeworth lived from her father's second marriage until her death at age eighty-two. She managed the property, received rents, wrote stories for her step-siblings, and hosted Sir Walter Scott during his memorable visit.

    Read the passage

    largely in her charge. She educated her young step-brothers and sisters, and it was for them she began writing stories, her immensely popular Parent's Assistant thus originating. The household was still further increased by the addition of two of the second and third ]\Irs. Edgeworth's sisters, but in the never-ending turmoil and lack of privacy Maria wrote without difficulty. It was she who managed the property for her father and received the rents, and after a short interregnum she did the same for her step-brother Lovell, who succeeded him. It was at this time Sir Walter Scott paid his memorable visit. "Mrs. Edgeworth's brother," says Lockhart, "had his classic mansion filled every evening with a succession of distinguished friends " to meet the poet. Edgeworthstovvn was Miss Edgeworth's home during the whole of her long life, and here she died at the age of eighty-two. From the first she depicted life as she saw it, which was the secret of her great success, and those who know her works will recognise many a homely picture in tlieu- visit to this district.

    Then after Cavan Junction, where a branch diverges to Cavan, we reach Mullingar, already described (p. VtH).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Edgeworthstown, a town the road passes through, and it was Maria Edgeworth's home for the whole of her long life. She managed the property for her father, received the rents, and later did the same for her step-brother Lovell. She began writing stories for her young step-brothers and sisters, and from that came her immensely popular Parent's Assistant. Sir Walter Scott paid a memorable visit here, and Lockhart wrote that Mrs. Edgeworth's brother had his classic mansion filled every evening with a succession of distinguished friends to meet the poet. Maria died here at the age of eighty-two. She depicted life as she saw it, which was the secret of her great success, and those who know her works will recognise many a homely picture in this district.

23. King John's Castle at Thomond Bridge

    near King John's Castle · castle · Louth · 1199–1216

    King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John, is one of the most important Norman fortresses in Ireland. Five massive towers connected by high walls show marks of shot and shell from the city's sieges, visible from Thomond Bridge.

    Read the passage

    King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John for the defence of English Town, is situated at Thomond Bridge. It is one of the most important specimens of the old Norman fortresses now existing in the country, being still iu good preservation. Five massive towers are connected by high walls of great thickness and solidity. On the side facing the river the marks of shot and shell, made on the walls centuries ago during the different sieges, are plainly visible from Thomond Bridge. The interior of the castle is occupied by barracks, the buildings of which, overlooking the walls, are very little in harmony with the older structure.

    St. Mary's Protestant Episcopal Cathedral, in English Town near New Bridge, is approached through a pleasant churchyard. On each side of the entrance path are the pinnacles of Ireton's House (or " Galwey's Castle"), which till late in the century stood here. It occupies the site of the palace of Donald More O'Brien, who, about the time of the arrival of the English, 1172 A.D., gave up certain of his lauds "in free and perpetual alms" to Brictius, then Bishop of Limerick. The diocese of Limerick dates, however, from the 5th century, but the primitive cathedral, which occupied the site of the present St. Munchin's Church, was destroyed in the 9th century.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 10

24. Legend of St. Cannara at Scattery Island

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare

    The legend of St. Cannara, versified by Moore, tells how the holy nun sailed to Senan's island seeking to share his prayers. She was refused but, as a relative of St. Senan, allowed to receive the Blessed Eucharist and was buried on the foreshore after death.

    Read the passage

    The legend of St. Cauuara, which Moore has put into verse, tells how that holy nun sailed to Senan's island to make her request —

    I come with humble heart to share Thy morning and thy evening prayer.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 15

25. Marriage and fishing customs of the Aran Isles community

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The Aran community had singular customs including brides receiving boats as dowry and marriage rings passed as heirlooms from mother to daughter. Fishermen refused to put to sea on days regarded as unlucky, even when miraculous shoals of fish appeared in the bay.

    Read the passage

    The community had at one time many singular customs. The bride received as her dowry a boat, or share of a boat, according to the means of the parents. The marriage ring was an heii'loom passing from mother to daughter. It was often decorated with a heart supported by two hands. On certain days, regarded by them as unlucky, not even the presence in the bay of the most miraculous shoals of fish would tempt the fishermen to put to sea. Hardiman, in his History of Galicay, describes this strange community, who now however conform to the manners and customs of their neighbours.

    The small one-story houses are dotted about without any attempt at uniformity and present the general appearance of a bed of mushrooms.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

26. Pigeon Hole cavern and legend of twelve sacred trout

    Cong · parish · Galway

    The Pigeon Hole (Pollna-g-columb), about a mile from Cong, is the most remarkable of the caverns along the underground river, descended by sixty steps. A legend states that twelve sacred trout inhabit the pool, and Captain Webb's Cave figured in a tragic local family history.

    Read the passage

    through Lord Ardilaun's grounds, or by the public road, the distance from Cong being about a mile. The descent to the cavern is made by a flight of sixty steps. It is a curious sight to look upward on a sunny day and see the light glistening through the screen of foliage above. In winter, when the river is in flood, it covers the floor at the foot of the steps, so that there is no standing room beyond them. A legend states that twelve sacred trout inhabit the pool. Captain Webb's Cave figured in the tragic family history of that local Bluebeard.

    The distauce from Cong to Leenane is about 27 miles. For a considerable distance we skirt the shores of Lough Corrib, of which there are good views. About midway we pass Carrick House, an anglers' hotel, almost on the shore of the loch. At Maam Bridge the road to Maam Station and Recess and Clifden, etc., goes ofl' over a bridge (left). The tiny white hotel here faces an amphitheatre of heights, the Maamturk Mountains being right opposite. The Leenane road passes between these and Joyces' country.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 42

27. Spanish trade and architectural legacy in Galway

    Galway · city · Galway

    Galway's intercourse with Spain brought frequent Spanish merchants and is ascribed as the source of certain architectural peculiarities still visible among the older buildings, including central courtyards with gateways opening onto the street.

    Read the passage

    Almost nothing is known of the history of Galway until the arrival of the English, when the town and adjoining district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to Rich, de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, the principal families of whom, thirteen in number, were known as the "tribes" of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it acquired great commercial importance, and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street.

    After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at tlie west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Galway, a city the road takes you through. Almost nothing is known of its history until the arrival of the English, when the town and the adjoining district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and settled a number of enterprising families there, the principal of whom, thirteen in number, were known as the tribes of Galway. Its walls were built in 1270, sixty years after the fortifying of Athenry. Very soon it acquired great commercial importance and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street. After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who was mayor in 1493, built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end and put painted glass in the windows. This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his duty.

28. Athenry Dominican Priory, 1241

    Athenry · town · Galway · 1241–1423

    The Dominican Priory at Athenry dates from 1241, with some original windows still remaining. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and rebuilt by the Pope's command. The building contains a tomb of Lady Bermingham, bones said to be those of the last monks, and a coat of arms of Taman the smith on a floor slab.

    Read the passage

    A few yards off is the most interesting of all the ruins — the Dominican Priory. Some of the original church of 1241 still remains in the windows of the nave (south) and chancel (north), but most of it is later work. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and, soon after, was rebuilt by the Pope's command. It has remains of an east window of the " Muckross " type; an eccentric inscription on the north wall; the "tasteless" tomb (in the centre) of Lady Bermingham ; and, on the south, the "sacristy," containing bones which ti'adition relates are those of the last monks. The nave once possessed in its west wall the finest wiudow (" Decorated ") in the church ; it had a little M'indow in the south-west corner which is said to have lighted the cell of a penitent of the last century. The curious " coat of arms " of Tanian the smith, upon a floor slab, deserves notice. The finest feature of the building, however, is the beautiful arcading in the north side aisle ; if not as old as the original church, this must be at least of 13tli-century date. There is an account of the church in the R. S.A.I. Handbook, 1897.

    Athenry is on a north and south line running from Limerick to Sligo, and this belongs to the G.S. and "W. Railway. We shall have to insert here the section dealing with it and those who wish to continue straight to Galway must skip to p. 206.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Athenry, the most interesting of all the ruins here is the Dominican Priory. Some of the original church of 1241 still survives in the windows of the nave and chancel, though most of the building is later work. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and soon after was rebuilt by the Pope's command. It has the remains of an east window of the Muckross type, and an eccentric inscription on the north wall. In the centre stands what the guide calls the tasteless tomb of Lady Bermingham. On the south side is the sacristy, containing bones which tradition says are those of the last monks. The nave once had in its west wall the finest Decorated window in the church, and a little window in the south-west corner said to have lighted the cell of a penitent of the last century. There is also a curious coat of arms of Taman the smith upon a floor slab. The finest feature of the building is the beautiful arcading in the north side aisle, which must be at least of 13th-century date.

29. Croagh Patrick pilgrimage traditions and St. Patrick associations

    near Croagh Patrick · mountain or mountain range · Mayo

    Croagh Patrick, known as 'The Reek', is sacred to St. Patrick, who was said to have spent Lent on the mountain fasting and praying. A tradition holds that he gathered all serpents in Ireland on the summit and drove them into the sea, and pilgrims from all parts of Ireland climb it performing stations.

    Read the passage

    Croagh Patrick mountain (2510 feet). This is popularly known as " The Reek," and is a height of unusual interest. The ascent may be made about 6 miles from Westport, opposite a bridge at the head of an inlet, close by St. Patrick's Church, Lecanvey ; or a mile farther on, at the back of the little hotel at Murrisk, itself called Croagh Patrick. As the ascent of the mountain is comparatively easy, entirely Avithout danger except in mist, and by a clearly marked path, there is no necessity for the assistance of guides. Ponies can be taken threefourths of the way up the mountain. Croagh Patrick is regarded as sacred to St. Patrick. While sojourning in Connaught the saint was accustomed to spend Lent on the mountain fasting and praying. There is also a tradition that he collected together on the top of the mountain all the serpents in Ireland, and drove them thence into the sea, and a hollow in tlie mountain is pointed out as the place in which they endeavoured in vain to take refuge on their descent.

    The mountain, which is formed of quartzite, rises abruptly from the eastern margin of Clew Bay. Its cone-shaped summit, and its abrupt rise from the shore, lend to it an appearance of greater height than it actually possesses. On account of its connection with St. Patrick, it is celebrated as a place of religious pilgrimage, and at certain seasons it is climbed by pilgrims from all parts of Ireland, who " perfoim stations " as they ascend.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 35

30. Dominican Priory of Roscommon and O'Connor's tomb

    Roscommon · town · Roscommon · 1240–1260

    A Dominican Priory was founded in Roscommon around the mid-13th century by Feidlim O'Connor, King of Connacht, who was buried within its walls. His tomb, a mailed recumbent effigy in Irish marble on an altar-tomb, survives though severely mutilated.

    Read the passage

    About the middle of the 13th century a Dominican Priory was also founded by Feidlim O'Connor, King of Conuaught, who was interred within its walls, and whose tomb, with mutilated effigy, is still pointed out. It is a very mixed work of art, in fine Irish marble. The monument represents a mailed recumbent figure ])laced upon an altar-tomb, the sides ornamented with several compartments, in each of which stands a figure mailed and armed. The monument lias, however, undergone severe mutilation.

    The Castle, visible from the railway station, about a quarter of a mile to the north of tlie town, was built in 1269, when the ofl5ce of Justiciary of Ireland was held by Robert DUtford. There is, however, no doubt that a fortress of a much earlier date

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 43

31. Galway's commercial decline and the Railway Hotel, 1845

    Galway · city · Galway · 1845

    In 1845 efforts were made in expectation of a steam-packet line, and the huge Railway Hotel was built. The enterprise failed, and for the preceding sixty years the population had steadily decreased.

    Read the passage

    In 1845 exertions were made in expectation of the coming of a line of steam packets, and the huge hotel known as the Railway Hotel was built. The enterprise came to nothing, and for the last sixty years the population has steadily decreasd.

    There is good salmon-fishing free on Lough Corrib, but in the town all the water below the weir is preserved. Anglers who apply for a permit for trout-fishing are usually granted it, but pay about 15s. a day to fish for salmon. Salmon abound in the River Corrib, and may often be seen from the parapet of New Bridge lying in great numbers as close together as the fingers of the hand, waiting to ascend the weir. At the spawning season this is one of the sights of Galway.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway, this was a city in long decline. In 1845 people here made a great effort, expecting a line of steam packets to come, and they built the huge Railway Hotel. The enterprise came to nothing. For the sixty years before that, the population had steadily decreased.

32. Corcomroe Abbey founded by Donaldmore O'Brien

    near Corcomroe Abbey · monument · Clare · 1182–1267

    Corcomroe Abbey, near Ballyvaughan, was founded about 1182 by Donaldmore O'Brien, king of Limerick, as an offshoot of the monastery of Furness in Lancashire and dedicated to St. Mary. The chancel contains an effigy of King Conor Roe O'Brien (1267), grandson of the founder, providing a sculptured record of 13th-century royal Irish dress.

    Read the passage

    From Ballyvaughax {Hotels: (C.) Kerin's ; Mrs. Davis'), 7 miles eastward along the Bay, is Corcomroe Abbey, an offshoot of the great monastery of Furness in Lancashire. It was founded about 1182 by a king of Limerick, Donaldmore O'Brien, and dedicated to St. Mary.^ Though rude in structure as seen today, ancient accounts tell of "the purple marble and polished stones, starry ornaments and whitewashed walls of the Abbey." The cloister-square and chui-ch still remain. In the chancel of the church there are the altar, the sedilia, and the most interesting object of the building — the large figure of King Conor Roe O'Brien (1267), grandson of the founder, which gives a sculptured record of the royal Irish dress of the 13th century.

    A public car from Lisdoonvarna meets the steamer at Ballyvaughan.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Corcomroe Abbey, near Ballyvaughan, you have the ruins of a monastery founded about 1182 by Donaldmore O'Brien, king of Limerick, and dedicated to St. Mary. It was an offshoot of the great monastery of Furness in Lancashire. Though it looks rough now, old accounts spoke of "the purple marble and polished stones, starry ornaments and whitewashed walls of the Abbey." The cloister-square and church still remain, and in the chancel you can see the altar, the sedilia, and the most interesting thing here — the large carved figure of King Conor Roe O'Brien from 1267, grandson of the founder, giving a sculptured record of royal Irish dress in the 13th century.

33. Desmond Castle at Adare forfeited and dismantled by Cromwell

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1226–1650

    A castle stood at Adare before 1226, possibly founded earlier by Anglo-Normans. It was forfeited to the Crown on the attainder of 'Silken' Thomas in 1536, passed to the Desmonds, and was dismantled by Cromwell. The keep was built on the ancient rath.

    Read the passage

    Across the grass, and near the village bridge, are seen the remains of the Castle, also within the park. A castle is known to have stood here before 1226, and may have been founded some years previously by the Anglo-Normans. "On the attainder of 'silken' Thomas, in 1536, the castle was forfeited to the Crown," and, passing to the Desmonds, was called Desmond Castle. It was dismantled by Cromwell. The Gate Tower contains the groove for the portcullis. Of the keep, built on the ancient Rath, the ruins are not imposing ; they are south-east of the inner ward. Near the castle is the old Parish Church of St. Nicholas. The chancel contains probably the original Norman walla, is "about the oldest building now remaining in Adare," and dates from something between 1280 and 1320. In 1806 it ceased to be used for the Protestant service, which was transferred to the Augustinian building.

    On the left (or west) as you come out of the Village Gate is the White Abbey of the Trinitarians, which was founded before 1299. The Church, which is now the B.C. Church, was at the beginning of the century a baU-alley, and but for the good (second) Earl would have become a potato store. Its chief feature is the massive central tower. The spacious and good interior is beautified by the reredos screen.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

34. Fort of Eoghan Beul on Inishmaan, Lough Mask

    Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway · 500–537

    Inishmaan, the largest island in Lough Mask, has remains of a fort said to have been founded by Eoghan Beul, King of Connaught, at the beginning of the 6th century. He was killed at Sligo in 537 in battle with the Ulster people, having ordered his body buried erect facing Ulster with a javelin in hand.

    Read the passage

    Lough Mask, lying in a direction almost due north and south, is about 10 miles in length, and little more than 4 in breadth. Owing to the proximity of the mountains to the west, the scenery in its vicinity far surpasses that adjoining Lough Corrib. The lake contains upwards of twenty islands, the largest of which is Inishmaan, on which there are remains of a fort said to have been founded by Eoghan Beul, King of Connauglit, in the beginning of the 6th century. He was killed at Sligo in 537 in battle with the people of Ulster, having previously ordered his body to be buried in an erect position "facing Ulster," with a "javelin in his hand, that even in death he might affright his enemies. The position of the body seemed to act as a charm upon the people of Connaught, who subsequently won every battle, until the people of the north of Ireland came with a numerous host, and carried the body northwards across the

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 42

35. French invasion at Killala Bay, 1798

    near Killala Bay · bay · Mayo · 1798

    Killala Bay was the rendezvous of French invaders in 1798 under General Humbert, who landed with a thousand men and surprised the garrison of Killala of only forty men. The French advanced and entered Ballina, driving out loyalists who retreated to Foxford, and held possession for three weeks before being attacked by General Trench and driven back to their ships.

    Read the passage

    There is salmon and trout fishing on Loch Conn (several hotels at Crossmoliua), about 6 miles from Ballina. The bay is famous as the rendezvous of the French invaders in 1798. The garrison of Killala, only forty men, was surprised by the French general, Humbert, who landed with a thousand men. Next day a detachment of the French were driven in by an English piquet, who, advancing too far, were ambuscaded, and su9"ered considerable loss. Towards night the French advancing, entered Ballina, and drove out the loyalists, who retreated to Foxford. The enemy retained possession for three weeks, when they were attacked by General Trench, and ultimately driven back to their ships.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 44

36. Galway surrender to Ginckell, 1691

    Galway · city · Galway · 1691

    After much fighting during the Cromwellian war, Galway's citizens surrendered their Jacobite guns in 1691 to the English under Ginckell, who was en route from the field of Aughrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick.

    Read the passage

    After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at tlie west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Galway, this is where the citizens surrendered their Jacobite guns in 1691 to the English under Ginckell. He was on his way from the field of Aughrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick, after much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war. Galway also holds the story of James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, mayor in 1493, who built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church and put painted glass in the windows. He is the famous Warden who, according to one version, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy the son murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him.

37. Knocknarea and Misgoun Meave cairn

    near Knocknarea · mountain or mountain range · Sligo

    Knocknarea, 'the Hill of Executions' (1078 feet), is topped by an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, who buried three husbands before her own death. The cairn is 200 yards in circumference, and the view extends from Slieve League to Nephin.

    Read the passage

    The excursion to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains. The whole round is about 13 miles. By taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group of ancient crondechs and stone monuments at Cakrowmore. A few miles nortli-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea, " the Hill of Executions " (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 45). The fine view extends from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west).

    At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore- Booth's place, north of DrumclifT Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely sho\vn to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the way, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel near Knocknarea in Sligo, you are passing the mountain the old guide calls the Hill of Executions, rising 1078 feet. The ascent can be made from the school near a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain. On the top sits an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the Mab of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson. She buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave measures 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara. From the summit the view extends from Slieve League in the north-west to Nephin in the south-west. The whole excursion round is about 13 miles and can include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains, with the great group of ancient monuments at Carrowmore reached by taking the southern road. The mountain and its cairn stand as one of the great prehistoric landmarks of this part of the west.

38. Strafford's Connaught claims council at Portumna Castle

    Portumna · town · Galway

    A council presided over by the Earl of Strafford convened at Portumna Castle to establish the Crown's claim to forfeited estates in Connaught. The members refused to admit the royal claims and were sent to Dublin as prisoners under escort of the sheriff.

    Read the passage

    Portumna {Inn) is in a somewhat decayed condition, and possesses the ruins of a monastery and the remains of an ancient castle. The monastery, which belonged to the Dominican friars, was founded on the site of a very ancient Cistercian chapel dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. The Dominicans were confirmed in their possession by a bull of Pope Martin V. dated 8th October 1426. The walls are comparatively entire. The council, presided over by the Earl of Straff"ord, convened for the purpose of establishing His Majesty's claim to the forfeited estates in Connaught, held its sitting in Portumna Castle, but the members having vrefused to admit the royal claims were sent to Dublin as prisoners under escort of the sheriff.

    A brief view of the "Abandoned Railway" may be had on the east (right) bank just after leaving Portumna Bridge. The end of the deep cutting is visible for a moment. This twelvemile lino was laid down between Portumna and Parsonstown, but owing to a dispute between the Company and the Board of Works it was abandoned. The country-folk ripped up the rails and sleepers. A motor bus runs twice a day each way between Portumna and Ballyquirk.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 19

39. The Claddagh fishing community and its King

    Claddagh · electoral division · Galway

    The Claddagh, meaning 'sea-shore,' is the part of Galway adjoining the harbour inhabited chiefly by fishermen. Formerly a distinct community that did not intermarry with townsfolk, they were governed by their own magistrate called the 'King of the Claddagh,' but are now under municipal rule.

    Read the passage

    The Claddagh (Irish, Cladach, the sea-shore or strand) is the name given to that part of Galway adjoining the harbour and inliabited chiefly by fishermen. Formerly they were a distinct community, not intermarrying with the townfolk and governed by their own magistrate or mayor, called the "King of the Claddagh,'' but they are now under municipal rule.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through Claddagh, the part of Galway by the harbour. The name means sea-shore, and fishermen lived here as a people apart, not marrying outside their community. They had their own magistrate, called the King of the Claddagh. That rule is gone now, and municipal law holds instead.

40. Blake family acquisition of Renvyle House after Cromwellian confiscation

    near Rinvyle · population centre · Galway · 1680

    The hostess's family purchased the Renvyle property in 1680, sometime after Oliver Cromwell had confiscated their ancient home. The hotel retains antique elm and oak wainscoting and possesses a famous library with seventeenth and eighteenth century books.

    Read the passage

    Mrs. Blake's Hotel, Renvyle House (£3 per week), is most homely and comfortable, besides being unique ; for its walls, within, retain their antique elm and oak wainscotting, and it lies as snugly embowered as some old English "grange." The hostess's family bought the property in 1680, some time after Cromwell had confiscated their ancient home. (See T]ic Blake Records published by Elliot Stock.) There is a famous library with many seventeenth and eighteenth century books, including a first edition of Raleigh's History of the IFm-ld. There is brown trout fishing and also sea-fishing free except for boat. There is a golf course and some mixed shooting, and the easel of the marine artist is often to be seen on the shore. With all these attractions it is small wonder that Renvyle is popular.

    The hotel stands on Lough Renvyle (fresh water), close to

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 32

41. Galway town walls built 1270

    Galway · city · Galway · 1270

    Galway's town walls were built in 1270, sixty years after Athenry was fortified. The walls brought security that helped the town acquire great commercial importance and attract Spanish merchants.

    Read the passage

    Almost nothing is known of the history of Galway until the arrival of the English, when the town and adjoining district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to Rich, de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, the principal families of whom, thirteen in number, were known as the "tribes" of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it acquired great commercial importance, and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street.

    After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at tlie west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway, you are moving through a town whose walls went up in 1270, sixty years after Athenry was fortified. Before that, almost nothing is known of Galway's history except that it lay under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 1200s it was given to Richard de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and brought in enterprising settlers. The principal families among them, thirteen in number, became known as the tribes of Galway. Once the walls were built, the town soon acquired great commercial importance and began to attract Spanish merchants. That trade with Spain left its mark on the older buildings here. Some houses still have fantastic ornamental carvings, and many older buildings have a central court with a gateway opening onto the street. The town's later history was hard. After much fighting in the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell in 1691, as he passed from the field of Aghrim toward the Treaty Stone at Limerick. Another figure tied to the town is James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, mayor in 1493, who built the choir of Saint Nicholas's Church at the west end and put painted glass in the windows. He is the famous Warden who, in one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son for murdering a rival in love.

42. Bishop's Island oratory and famine legend

    near Bishop's Island · townland · Clare

    Bishop's Island, near Kilkee, has an early oratory. Legend places a bishop here who fled from the famine-stricken mainland to feast on his private island store. When the famine ended and he sought to return, the raging sea had widened the chasm and trapped him on the island.

    Read the passage

    The latter has an early oratory ; and legend places here a bishop, who fled from the famine-stiicken mainland to feast on his private island store. When, however, the famine and his own fare were alike at an end, and this fasting philanthropist sought to return, the raging sea had widened the chasm and chained him to his solitary fate. In the bay, behind, the

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here on Bishop's Island, near Kilkee, stands an early oratory. Legend tells of a bishop who fled the famine-stricken mainland to feast on his private island store. When the famine ended and he sought to return, the raging sea had widened the chasm and trapped him on his solitary fate.

43. Cromwellian garrison in Aranmore intermarried with natives

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 1650–1660

    Cromwell left a small English garrison in Aranmore whose soldiers subsequently converted to Catholicism and intermarried with the native islanders, thereby complicating claims of pure Firbolg ancestry among the inhabitants.

    Read the passage

    The uncommon characteristics of the natives mark them out as of a special type, hardly less peculiar to the soil than the colony which Scottish tourists find in St. Kilda. Their home-spun dress, cow-hide sandals called " pampooties," and relics of ancient customs win attract notice. "We might be disposed," says Dr. Beddoe, " trusting to Irish traditions respecting the islands, to accept these people as representatives of the Firbolgs, had not Cromwell, that upsettor of all tilings Hibernian, left in Aranmore a small English garrison who subsequently apostatised to Catholicism, intermarried with the natives, and so vitiated the Firbolgian pedigree." Dr. Petrie describes them as of a generally high moral character.

    From the Steamer Pier we turn left along the bay to Killrany, where of several churches only two now remain, with the lower part only of the Round Tower. Four churches and the upper part of the Tower were destroyed by Gromwellian soldiers to build up the adjoining Arkin Castle. " Enda's Chapel " remains, but his tomb, as his great church, have gone. Here was the

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

44. Athenry Franciscan Friary, 1464

    Athenry · town · Galway · 1464

    The Franciscan Friary church at Athenry retains its slender tower and spire and contains the present Protestant church within its chancel. It was founded by the Earl of Kildare in 1464, with the south transept being the best part of the building.

    Read the passage

    cross iu front of the gate which leads to the Franciscan Friary. The church, which still retains its slender tower and spire, and contains the present Protestant church within its chancel, was founded by the Earl of Kildare in 1464. The best part of the building is the south transept, which once had a very finely cut window now ruined.

    A few yards off is the most interesting of all the ruins — the Dominican Priory. Some of the original church of 1241 still remains in the windows of the nave (south) and chancel (north), but most of it is later work. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and, soon after, was rebuilt by the Pope's command. It has remains of an east window of the " Muckross " type; an eccentric inscription on the north wall; the "tasteless" tomb (in the centre) of Lady Bermingham ; and, on the south, the "sacristy," containing bones which ti'adition relates are those of the last monks. The nave once possessed in its west wall the finest wiudow (" Decorated ") in the church ; it had a little M'indow in the south-west corner which is said to have lighted the cell of a penitent of the last century. The curious " coat of arms " of Tanian the smith, upon a floor slab, deserves notice. The finest feature of the building, however, is the beautiful arcading in the north side aisle ; if not as old as the original church, this must be at least of 13tli-century date. There is an account of the church in the R. S.A.I. Handbook, 1897.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Athenry, there's a cross in front of the gate that leads to the Franciscan Friary. The church still has its slender tower and spire, and the present Protestant church sits within its chancel. It was founded by the Earl of Kildare in 1464. The best part of the building is the south transept, which once had a very finely cut window, now ruined. A few yards off is what the guide calls the most interesting of all the ruins, the Dominican Priory. Some of the original church of 1241 still survives in the windows of the nave to the south and the chancel to the north, but most of what you see is later work. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and was soon rebuilt by command of the Pope. It has the remains of an east window of the Muckross type, an eccentric inscription on the north wall, and what the guide calls a tasteless tomb in the centre, that of Lady Bermingham. On the south side is the sacristy, containing bones which tradition says are those of the last monks. The nave once had in its west wall the finest decorated window in the church, and a little window in the south-west corner said to have lighted the cell of a penitent of the last century. There is a curious coat of arms on a floor slab, of Taman the smith. The finest feature of the building is the beautiful arcading in the north side aisle, which must be at least 13th-century in date.

45. English Town founded on King's Island by William de Burgh

    King's Island · townland · Limerick · 1199–1216

    English Town, on King's Island in Limerick, was founded in the reign of King John by William de Burgh, who built a castle for its defence. In the 15th century the fortifications were extended south to Irish Town.

    Read the passage

    The portion on "King's island" called English Town was founded in the reign of King John by William do Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifications were extended to Irish Town south of it. The city in 1651 was taken by General Ireton. William III.'s siege of 1690, owing chiefly to Sarsfield's energetic defence, was raised ; but 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sar.sfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way in which the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769.

    Bridges. — English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Mathow [Killarney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occupying the site of a bi'idge of great antiquity. Thomond Bridge, also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects English town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the bridge stands the "Treaty Stone" mentioned above.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to King's Island, on the part called English Town, William de Burgh founded a settlement in the reign of King John and built a castle for its defence. In the 1400s the fortifications were extended south to Irish Town. The city was taken by General Ireton in 1651, and in 1690 William the Third's siege was raised, chiefly owing to Sarsfield's energetic defence. But 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong, and Sarsfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way the English side of the bargain was kept is indicated by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Sexton Pery in 1769. English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by Mathew Bridge, named after Father Mathew, and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure on the site of a bridge of great antiquity. Thomond Bridge, also on the site of a very ancient structure, connects English Town with County Clare. On the Clare side of that bridge stands the Treaty Stone.

46. Lynch's Castle in Shop Street

    Shop Street · street · Galway

    Lynch's Castle, the most intact antique dwelling in Galway, stands in the principal street. It is a quaint building with fantastic carving, well-preserved gargoyles, and sculptured façades contrasting with surrounding squalor.

    Read the passage

    On many houses in the older and meaner parts of the town may be seen sculptured fa9ades and coats-of-arms, in curious contrast with the surrounding squalor. The most entire of these antique dwellings is that known as "Lynch's Castle," in the principal street ; it is really a very quaint and interesting building with fantastic carving, well-preserved, and rows of gargoyles.

    The walls of the town were removed, but some portions still remain, the Lyon Tower in Egliuton Street, and the gateway at the Quay being specially worthy of notice. In the centre of the town is the spacious Eyre Square, with an enclosure laid out in walks, and planted with trees. A carved doorway, dated 1627, which once belonged to the house of a

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on Shop Street you have Lynch's Castle, the most intact antique dwelling in Galway. It is a very quaint and interesting building, with fantastic carving well preserved and rows of gargoyles. In the older and meaner parts of the town you can see sculptured façades and coats of arms, in curious contrast with the surrounding squalor, and this is the most entire of them all.

47. Killrany churches and Round Tower destroyed for Arkin Castle

    Kilronan · village · Galway · 1650–1660

    At Killrany, four churches and the upper part of the Round Tower were destroyed by Cromwellian soldiers to build the adjoining Arkin Castle. Only two churches and the lower part of the Round Tower now remain.

    Read the passage

    From the Steamer Pier we turn left along the bay to Killrany, where of several churches only two now remain, with the lower part only of the Round Tower. Four churches and the upper part of the Tower were destroyed by Gromwellian soldiers to build up the adjoining Arkin Castle. " Enda's Chapel " remains, but his tomb, as his great church, have gone. Here was the

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

48. Lough Corrib and the Giant Orbsen fable

    Lough Corrib · lake or lakes · Galway

    According to fable, the name Corrib derives from the Giant Orbsen, killed by another giant named Uliin in a fight at Moycuilen for the sovereignty of Connaught. The lake's waters gushed out when his grave was being dug.

    Read the passage

    Lough Corrib is about 25 miles in length, and its greatest breadth is about 8 miles. The country immediately adjoining the shores is flat and uninteresting, but the numerous rocky islets, some of them clothed with stunted trees, lend picturesqueness to the scene, while to the north-west the towering forms of the Connemara Mountains are seen in the distance to great advantage. According to fable the word Corrib is corrupted from the Giant Orbsen's name. This giant, it is said, was killed by Uliin, another giant, in a great fight at Moycuilen for the sovereignty of Connaught ; and it was when his grave was being dug that the waters of the lake gushed out and overspread their present surface.

    About ten miles from Galway the hike contracts considerably, so as almost to give the idea of two lakes. The lower reach thus produced has very few islands upon it, but the upper expanse has so many as to have given rise to the saying that there was an island for every day of the year.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 40

49. Lutheran Palatinate refugees at Ballingrane

    Ballingarrane · townland · Limerick · 1700–1710

    Near Ballingrane Junction, close to Rathkeale, Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate settled at the beginning of the last century. The area also has a Desmond Castle and an Early English Priory among its ancient buildings.

    Read the passage

    Four miles inland, and south from Askcaton, is BallingraDe Junction, which is 2 miles from Ralhkcalc station. Here Is another Desmond Castle and several ancient buildings, including an "Early English" Priory. At the beginning of the last centui-y some Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate settled in this neighbourhood.

    Then, leaving the disused pier of Foynes on our left, we put in on certain days in the week at Kildysart, which serves the wide trainless district between Ennis and Kilrush. On other days the steamer continues until Redgap, on Labasheeda Bay, is reached. A little beyond, and on the opposite side of the Shannon, is the bright, well-built village of Glin.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 14

50. Sligo legend: burial of Nuada of the Silver Hand

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    Legend holds that when Nuada of the Silver Hand vanquished the king of the Firbolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the Sligo strand, and it is fabled that the tide will never cover it.

    Read the passage

    The history of Sligo begins with legend. When "Nuadaof the Silver Hand " vanquished and killed the king of the Firbolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the Sligo strand, and it is fabled that "the tide will never cover it." Among recorded facts is the founding of the Monastery and Castle by Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare, in the 13th century. In the civil wars the town was captured by the Parliamentary troops under Coote.

    The chief lion of the town is the Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414, but soon afterwards was reerected. The choir has a beautiful east window, of "reticulated" tracery, still perfect ; the slender ringed shafts are a good feature. Under this is a very rare specimen of a stone altar ;

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Sligo, the town's history begins with legend. When Nuada of the Silver Hand vanquished and killed the king of the Firbolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the Sligo strand, and it is fabled that the tide will never cover it. Among recorded facts, the Monastery and Castle were founded by Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare, in the 13th century. In the civil wars the town was captured by Parliamentary troops under Coote. The chief sight is the Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414 but soon afterwards re-erected. The choir has a beautiful east window of reticulated tracery, still perfect, and beneath it lies a very rare specimen of a stone altar.

51. Tuam St. Mary's chancel, Hiberno-Romanesque architecture

    Tuam · town · Galway

    The chancel of St. Mary's Cathedral in Tuam is of Hiberno-Romanesque architecture, with six circumscribed semicircles elaborately ornamented in low relief. Dr. Petrie considered it more splendid than Cormac's church at Cashel and worthy of the powerful monarch to whom it chiefly owed its erection.

    Read the passage

    nothing remains but the chancel of St. Mary's and a small part of the old parish church, which now stands in the middle of the ancient burial ground close to the present Cathedral. The chancel arch is of Hiberno-Romanesque architecture, and consists of six circumscribed semicircles, elaborately ornamented in low relief. Dr. Petrie, In writing of the church, says, "Of the ancient church of Tuam the chancel only remains ; but fortunately it is sufficient to make us acquainted with its general style of architectiu-e, and to show that it was not only a larger, but more splendid structure than Cormac's church at Cashel, and not unworthy of the powerful monarch to whom it chiefly owed its erection. The arch mouldings consist of diamond, fret, and varieties of the chevron, all carved with exquisite perfection. The original East window of the chancel remains. It is a triplet carved with most elaborate interlaced work, like that of the ancient Irish crosses. This window is oue of the most perfect examples I know of interlaced ornament in stone." Joined to the East end of the Cathedral is a much older church, which was used as a Cathedral till the present one was opened in 1S78, after being fifteen years in erection, at an outlay of over £20,000. The old church is now used as a Synod Hall, a portion of it being set apart as a Diocesan Library. This valuable library was presented to the diocese by the Rev. Jos. Henry, D.D., formerly British chaplain in Lima, Peru. In the Synod Hall are some beautifully carved and inlaid choir stalls, which were found in Italy and were purchased by the late Mr. E. J. Cooper of Markree Castle, for £3000, and after his decease presented to the diocese.

    Outside the Roman Catholic Cathedral, at the far end of the town, are several statues, iueludiug one to Father MacHale, by Farrell. Within is a baldachino of marble.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 21

52. Carrigogunnel Castle, Templar foundation destroyed 1691

    Carrigogunnel · townland · Limerick · 1691

    Carrigogunnel Castle, crowning a rocky eminence on the Shannon, was originally founded by the Knights Templar. It was blown up and dismantled after its surrender to the forces of William III in 1691.

    Read the passage

    Shortly after leaviug the qviay at Limerick we pass on the left, or County Limerick side the beautiful demesne of Lord Emly, at the extremity of whose property the rocky eminence of Carrig-o'- Gunnel (Rock of Connel), crowned by the picturesque ruins of an ancient castle, forms a prominent object of the landscape. The castle, originally founded by the Knights Templar, was blown up and dismantled after its surrender to the forces of William IIL in 1691.

    On the Clare side, nearly opposite Lord Emly's demesne, are the extensive woods of Cratloekeel, covering the mountain's side. Farther on we pass Dromore Castle, the magnificent residence of Lord Limerick, and Beagh Castle, and Horse Rock Lighthouse, the latter a prominent object in the middle of the river. On the Clare side (right), before reaching Foynes. we pass the estuary of the Fergus, called Lough Fergus. This is a very archipelago ; and on Canon Island is an ancient Norman monastery. Behind Beeves Lighthouse (left), in mid-stream, is the mouth of the Deel river, on which is —

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 14

53. Downpatrick Head cliffs and Poulashantana chasm

    near Downpatrick Head · promontory · Mayo

    Downpatrick Head, north of Killala, features magnificent cliffs and a startling great chasm where the surface has fallen in. Looking down 2000 feet, the ocean rolls in through a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana.

    Read the passage

    Downpatrick Head, 9 miles north of Killala, a succession of magnificent cliffs, well worthy of a visit. In ascending the Head visitors are startled by coming suddenly on a great chasm, caused by the surface of the hill having fallen in. Cautiously approaching this abyss, and looking down, the ocean is seen rolling in at a depth of 2000 feet, through a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana.

    The journey from Ballina to Sligo is 37 miles, and it is possible to go by car once a day, changing at Dromore. Fare 5s. 6d. The cycling is fair generally. From Ballina to Dromore the road is, generally speaking, unattractive. The country is flat moorland, and only relieved by the distant view, on the right, of the Ox ]\Iountains. Beyond Dromore {large inn) the aspect of the country is more cheerful, being better cultivated and more fertile, though to the right it is still mountainous. On the left is Aughris Head, a promontory guarding the southern shore of Sligo Bay. Before reaching Ballysodare we have a view on the left of the lake-like bay of the same name.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 45

54. Aughnanure Castle, seat of the O'Flahertys

    Aughnanure · townland · Galway · 1200–1599

    The ruins of Aughnanure Castle were the ancient seat of the O'Flahertys, who were driven from the east side of Lough Corrib by the De Burgos in the 13th century and resettled in Connemara. The surviving keep, bartizan, and banqueting-hall with decorative stone carving date from the 16th century.

    Read the passage

    with -whom they were continually at war. Though doubtless a very ancient feudal castle once occupied the site, the portions of the building still left do not indicate an earlier date than the 16th century. Of the castle, the strong square keej:) and bartizan remain, with indications of the banqueting-room and various oiBces. The interiors of the windows of the banqueting-hall are worthy of notice, on account of the decorative stone carving they display.

    Oughterard {Hotels. (0.) Angler's; Railway; (I.A.C.) Murphy's ; Monaghan), about 17 miles from Galway, is a wellknown fishing centre. There is a fish-hatchery here. A little distance from the town, near the bridge, the river forms a series of pretty cascades, called the Falls of Feogh. The valley is well i^lanted, and is more sheltered by trees than most of the bare hillsides of this district.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 28

55. Ballynahinch Castle and the Martin family seat

    Ballynahinch · townland · Galway

    The ruined tower of Ballynahinch Castle stands against a lake near Bengower. For centuries this was the seat of the Martin family, a powerful feudal family possessing about 200,000 acres, and Colonel Martin was remembered by the peasantry as 'the best Martin that ever reigned.'

    Read the passage

    It is a walk of about IJ mile from the station to the church by the delightful road that passes Ballynahinch House, and from the rising ground you will find some of the most charming little views in Ireland, if not indeed in the kingdom. There is just enough foliage to make a rich foreground, and through the oxjening trees the old ruined tower of the castle stands black against the silvery lake that washes the feet of the graceful slopes of Bengower. The easel and the brush have already penetrated thus far, and this land of beauty is not unknown on the walls of "Burlington House." This was for centuries the seat of the Martins, a powerful family in feudal times. It was a common phrase among the peasantry that "Colonel Martin was the best Martin that ever reigjied," clearly denoting the almost regal power of the family, who possessed about 200,000 acres of ground in this country. Charles Lever's book, The Martins of Cro- Martin, deals with this family.

    On the west arm of Bertraghboy Bay, 7 miles south of Ballynahinch, is Roundstone [Hotels : Mellet ; (C. ) Kinton (temp.)), one of the most health-giving resorts on the west coast. The view from the town is of considerable grandeur, the mountains seeming to rise from the sea. Rare botanical plants grow in profusion on Urrisbeg, and the purple blossoms of the gentian are seen everywhere. The place is very popular with artists. Within a mile of the town lie Gurteen Beaches and Dog's Bay which present a fine and safe bathing-place and are well worthy of a visit. In the summer there are two incoming mails daily.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 30

56. Clonmacnois monastic settlement founded by St. Kieran

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 550–900

    Clonmacnois, 'the meadow of the Sons of Nos,' was founded about 550 by St. Kieran along the river Shannon. By the 9th century it held a position second only to Armagh in popular reverence and was known across France and Germany as a great seat of learning.

    Read the passage

    What Kevin's city of Glendalough was to Wicklow, tlie Clonmacnois of Kieran was to the Western Irish. But, as usual, this religious settlement of the west had been established long before the saint began to build on the eastern coast. Founded about 550 by the wild winding river, Clonmacnois — "the meadow of the Sons of Nos " — stands fitly in a country where, as Dr. Petrie said, "loneliness and silence, save the sound of the elements, have an almost undisturbed reign." It occupied "in the 9th century a position second only to Armagh itself in popular reverence. . . . Two round towers, three crosses, an ancient castle, a well-preserved cashel, the ruins of seven churches, all genuine Celtic monuments, with but few traces of English work, unite to make Clonmacnois a most interesting spot for the historian or the archceologist " {Dr. Stokes).

    The founder, St. Kieran, was " no mythical character. " He was surnamed the "son of the carpenter," and after founding the church here died of "black jaundice," in 549, at the young age of 33. " In the time of Charlemagne (800) Clonmacnois was known in France and Germany as a great seat of learning, and Alcuin of York wrote . . . sending pecuniary assistance to the monks."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 6

57. Devil's Bit Mountain and the Rock of Cashel tradition

    near Devilsbit Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Tipperary

    Local tradition holds that the devil bit a notch out of the mountain known as the Devil's Bit, but finding the morsel indigestible vomited it at Cashel in Tipperary, where it became the Rock of Cashel.

    Read the passage

    80 called from the curious notch in its outline. According to the tradition it was the devil who bit the piece out of the mountain, but, finding the morsel too hard for his digestion, he is said to have vomited it at Cashel in Tipperary, where it is known as the "Rock of Cashel." The pier in Dromineer Bay {Hotel), the next inlet on this east shore, serves the town of Nenagh, 6 miles inland, and faces the charming house called .S'^ David's.

    Between this and Island More we get the best scenery on the loch, and obtain a good view of the well-defined and highest point in Silvermine Jlountains to the south, beyond Nenagh. Away to the west, behind Williamstown, are the Scalp and other points of the Slieve Aughty group, dim and far.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 19

58. Knock: pilgrimage, healing miracles, and votive relics

    Knock · town · Mayo

    The church at Knock became a major pilgrimage site after reports of miracles of healing and supernatural visions drew large crowds. Crutches and other relics left by pilgrims remain at the church, which continues to be visited by devout Catholics.

    Read the passage

    Ballyhaunis (43f miles) is the best station from which to visit the church of Knock (8 miles by hired car), where the miracles of healing and supernatural visions attracted large crowds of pilgrims some years ago. Crutches and other relics may be seen at the church, which is still visited by many devout Roman Catholics.

    At Claremorris (46| miles) (several small hotels) is an important junction, whence a line goes north to Sligo and south to Tuam, see page 205. For Cong take rail to Ballinrobe, and hence it is 7 miles by road.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 43

59. Maynooth College founded by Irish Parliament

    Maynooth · town · Kildare · 1795–1846

    The Royal College of St. Patrick at Maynooth was instituted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to educate Catholic priesthood candidates after continental wars prevented Irish students attending foreign universities. It was extended and improved in 1846 from designs of Pugin and could accommodate over 500 students.

    Read the passage

    The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, extended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin. It has accommodation for over 500 students. The cloister is a fine specimen of Early English. The hall is a spacious and beautiful apartment, and there is a large library. The college was instituted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to provide education for candidates for the priesthood in the Roman Catholic Chnrch, on account of the difficulty, during the continental wars, of Irish students frequenting the foreign universities. More than half the Roman Catholic clergy of Ireland now receive their education at it. Formerly it obtained an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000 ; but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 this was commuted by the payment of a capital sum fourteen times its amount. It is supported also by private donations and bequests, in addition to the entrance fees of the students.

    The Castle of Maynooth, adjoining the college, was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald, and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton, in the reign of Henry VIII., but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the surrounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 3

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Maynooth in Kildare, there's a college that reshaped Irish religious education. The Irish Parliament instituted the Royal College of St. Patrick here in 1795 to train Roman Catholic priests, because continental wars had cut off Irish students from the foreign universities where they had previously studied. The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, extended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin, with room for over 500 students. More than half of Ireland's Roman Catholic clergy received their education there. It drew an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000, but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869, this was commuted by a capital payment fourteen times that amount. Adjoining the college stands Maynooth Castle, founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. Sir William Brereton took it from Thomas Fitzgerald in the reign of Henry the Eighth, though it was later restored to the family. The keep and several towers still remain, along with the surrounding fosse, showing it was a place of great strength.

60. Sligo Abbey founded by Maurice Fitzgerald c.1252

    Sligo · town · Sligo · 1252–1414

    The Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, is now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414 but soon re-erected, with a beautiful east window of reticulated tracery and a rare stone altar.

    Read the passage

    The chief lion of the town is the Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414, but soon afterwards was reerected. The choir has a beautiful east window, of "reticulated" tracery, still perfect ; the slender ringed shafts are a good feature. Under this is a very rare specimen of a stone altar ;

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Sligo holds the ruins of an abbey founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, who was Lord Justice. It burned in 1414 but was soon rebuilt. The choir still has a beautiful east window of reticulated tracery, still perfect, with slender ringed shafts, and beneath it sits a very rare stone altar.