Black's guide to Galway, Connemara, and the west of Ireland

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Maynooth College founded by Irish Parliament

   Maynooth · town · Kildare · 1795–1846

   The Royal College of St. Patrick at Maynooth was instituted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to educate Catholic priesthood candidates after continental wars prevented Irish students attending foreign universities. It was extended and improved in 1846 from designs of Pugin and could accommodate over 500 students.

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   The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, extended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin. It has accommodation for over 500 students. The cloister is a fine specimen of Early English. The hall is a spacious and beautiful apartment, and there is a large library. The college was instituted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to provide education for candidates for the priesthood in the Roman Catholic Chnrch, on account of the difficulty, during the continental wars, of Irish students frequenting the foreign universities. More than half the Roman Catholic clergy of Ireland now receive their education at it. Formerly it obtained an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000 ; but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 this was commuted by the payment of a capital sum fourteen times its amount. It is supported also by private donations and bequests, in addition to the entrance fees of the students.

   The Castle of Maynooth, adjoining the college, was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald, and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton, in the reign of Henry VIII., but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the surrounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 3

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Maynooth in Kildare, there's a college that reshaped Irish religious education. The Irish Parliament instituted the Royal College of St. Patrick here in 1795 to train Roman Catholic priests, because continental wars had cut off Irish students from the foreign universities where they had previously studied. The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, extended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin, with room for over 500 students. More than half of Ireland's Roman Catholic clergy received their education there. It drew an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000, but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869, this was commuted by a capital payment fourteen times that amount. Adjoining the college stands Maynooth Castle, founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. Sir William Brereton took it from Thomas Fitzgerald in the reign of Henry the Eighth, though it was later restored to the family. The keep and several towers still remain, along with the surrounding fosse, showing it was a place of great strength.

2. Sligo Abbey founded by Maurice Fitzgerald c.1252

   Sligo · town · Sligo · 1252–1414

   The Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, is now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414 but soon re-erected, with a beautiful east window of reticulated tracery and a rare stone altar.

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   The chief lion of the town is the Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414, but soon afterwards was reerected. The choir has a beautiful east window, of "reticulated" tracery, still perfect ; the slender ringed shafts are a good feature. Under this is a very rare specimen of a stone altar ;

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 45

   As the companion tells it

   Sligo holds the Abbey founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. Fire consumed it in 1414, but it was soon re-erected. The choir still has a perfect east window of reticulated tracery, with slender ringed shafts, and beneath it stands a very rare stone altar.

3. St. Nicholas Church, Shop Street, dating from 1320

   Shop Street · street · Galway · 1320

   The Church of St. Nicholas in Shop Street dates from 1320. Its interior was once used as stables for Parliament troops' chargers during the Civil War. Notable features include old slabs, the tomb of Lynch Fitz-Stephen, an old font, and bells dating from 1590 and 1631.

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   Just beyond Lyuch's Castle in Shop Street is the Church of St. Nicholas, dating from 1320. The tower, partly rough-cast, has uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks. The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. The interior was once the stables for the chargers of the Parliament troops during the Civil "War. The chief features of interest are the old slabs in the south transept, and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-Stephen. The font is old and good ; and in the north aisle is what is generally called "the Confessional," but ' ' nothing is definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt that it was ever intended for such use." There are ten bells in the tower, one of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used. Of the remaining nine bells the two largest are cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ringing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented.

   University College is close to the town on the Oughterard Road. It is a fine grey limestone building standing in wellkept grounds. Museums are attached to the principal medical departments, and there is a large medical library. The belfry is a neat miniature of " Tom " Tower in Christ Church, Oxford, and unique in Ireland. The Diocesan College is built of the same stone, and can be seen on the way to Salthill.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   St. Nicholas Church on Shop Street dates from 1320, just beyond Lynch's Castle. The tower, partly rough-cast, has uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks. The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. The interior was once the stables for the chargers of the Parliament troops during the Civil War. The chief features of interest are the old slabs in the south transept, and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-Stephen. The font is old and good; and in the north aisle is what is generally called "the Confessional," but "nothing is definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt that it was ever intended for such use." There are ten bells in the tower; one of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used. Of the remaining nine bells, the two largest are cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ringing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented. University College is close to the town on the Oughterard Road, a fine grey limestone building standing in well-kept grounds. Museums are attached to the principal medical departments, and there is a large medical library. The belfry is a neat miniature of Tom Tower in Christ Church, Oxford, and unique in Ireland. The Diocesan College is built of the same stone, and can be seen on the way to Salthill.

4. Tuam, ancient cross with carvings described by Miss Stokes

   Tuam · town · Galway

   In the centre of Tuam is a fine ancient cross with carvings described by Miss Stokes as showing the Crucifixion on one side, a bishop on the other, and a funeral procession on the reverse, with inscriptions both ancient and modern and much interlaced work.

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   From Athenry it is 16 miles northwards to Tuam {Hotel: Guy's Imperial), a pleasant, and in some ways smart little town. On the other hand it looks the humblest of cities ; yet it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, and traces its importance back to the 6th-centui'y saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient Cross with carvings, described thus by Miss Stokes: — "Crucifixion on one side ; figure of a bishop on the other ; a funeral procession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work.

   Tlie chief buildings in the town are the two Cathedrals, that ol St. Mary (Church of Ireland) and that of St. Jarlath (Roman Catholic). The former carries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam. Of these ancient churches

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

   As the companion tells it

   The road takes you through Tuam, a pleasant town that looks, in some ways, like the humblest of cities. Yet it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, and traces its importance back to the 6th-century saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient cross with carvings, described by Miss Stokes. She wrote of "Crucifixion on one side; figure of a bishop on the other; a funeral procession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work. The chief buildings in the town are two cathedrals, that of St. Mary, Church of Ireland, and that of St. Jarlath, Roman Catholic. The former carries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam.

5. Carrowmore megalithic cemetery

   Carrowmore · townland · Sligo

   Three miles along the southern road from Sligo lies the great group of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments at Carrowmore, one of the most important prehistoric sites in Ireland.

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   The excursion to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains. The whole round is about 13 miles. By taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group of ancient crondechs and stone monuments at Cakrowmore. A few miles nortli-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea, " the Hill of Executions " (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 45). The fine view extends from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west).

   At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore- Booth's place, north of DrumclifT Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely sho\vn to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the way, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 47

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Carrowmore, a great group of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments. Three miles along the southern road from Sligo brings you to these prehistoric remains, part of a round excursion of about 13 miles that takes in a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and rare ancient sites. Knocknarea rises nearby, the Hill of Executions, 1078 feet high. On its top stands an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the Mab of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson. She buried three husbands before she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave measures 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara. From the hill the fine view extends from Slieve League in the north-west to Nephin in the south-west. A remarkable fern glen lies on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near it, Knocknarea can be ascended. At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place, north of Drumcliff Bay, are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and Alpine gardens, freely shown to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, though this is rather out of the way and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake.

6. Decay and ruin in Galway's streets

   Galway · city · Galway

   Galway presents a combination of dilapidation and decay alongside signs of improvement. Immense modern warehouses have stood unoccupied for years, and nearly every street has untenantied and roofless houses suggesting the impression of a city sacked and ruined.

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   Galway presents a curious combination of dilapidation and decay, with signs of improvement and moderate prosperity. Some immense warehouses, comparatively modern, have been for several years unoccupied, and are slowly going to ruin, and in nearly every street imtenauted and roofless houses suggest the "impression of a city sacked and ruined."

   On many houses in the older and meaner parts of the town may be seen sculptured fa9ades and coats-of-arms, in curious contrast with the surrounding squalor. The most entire of these antique dwellings is that known as "Lynch's Castle," in the principal street ; it is really a very quaint and interesting building with fantastic carving, well-preserved, and rows of gargoyles.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Galway, the streets show a strange mix of decay and modest prosperity. Immense modern warehouses have stood empty for years, slowly going to ruin, and nearly every street has untenantied and roofless houses that give the impression of a city sacked and ruined. Yet on many older, meaner houses you can see sculptured facades and coats-of-arms, a curious contrast with the squalor around them. The most entire of these antique dwellings is Lynch's Castle, in the principal street, a quaint building with fantastic carving, well preserved, and rows of gargoyles.

7. White Abbey of the Trinitarians at Adare, saved from ruin

   Adare · townland · Limerick · 1299

   The White Abbey of the Trinitarians at Adare was founded before 1299. At the beginning of the nineteenth century it had been used as a ball-alley and would have become a potato store but for the intervention of the second Earl of Dunraven. It now serves as a church with a massive central tower.

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   On the left (or west) as you come out of the Village Gate is the White Abbey of the Trinitarians, which was founded before 1299. The Church, which is now the B.C. Church, was at the beginning of the century a baU-alley, and but for the good (second) Earl would have become a potato store. Its chief feature is the massive central tower. The spacious and good interior is beautified by the reredos screen.

   The adjoining i^oMTitetra was the gift of the (second) Countess, 1851.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Adare is the White Abbey of the Trinitarians, founded before 1299. At the beginning of the nineteenth century it had been used as a ball-alley, and but for the second Earl of Dunraven it would have become a potato store. It now serves as a church. Its chief feature is a massive central tower, and the spacious interior is beautified by a reredos screen. The adjoining monastery was the gift of the second Countess, in 1851.

8. Achill Island chronic poverty and rough dwellings

   near Achill · parish · Mayo

   The inhabitants of Achill Island lived in chronic poverty, evident from their huts of rough cobbles and turf. Relief work in road-making was provided in winter, and the lace industry had grown as a staple home occupation.

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   energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the interior of Ireland, As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic state of poverty, a fact sufficiently evident from a glance at the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in other parts of the country, the standard of living has improved. Relief work in the shape of road-making is given in the winter. The lace industry has grown, the Carrickmacross lace-making being the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour is in demand, especially is this the case in regard to the potato crops in Dumfries, " tatie coppers," as they are called, going over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, therefore a large proportion of the time of the natives is taken up in "herding" the stock. Peat-preserving also takes up many hours of labour, as an old dame said, " It's the wan blessing we have, but what with the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it ! " In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound.

   The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of the fact of its almost treeless condition, and the heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rockfringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 38

   As the companion tells it

   Achill, in Mayo, is a parish the road passes near. Many of its people live in chronic poverty, plain to see in the huts of rough cobbles and turf where they dwell. The standard of living has improved, as it has elsewhere, but the hardship remains visible. In winter, relief work comes in the form of road-making. The lace industry has grown too, and Carrickmacross lace-making is now the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland when agricultural labour is in demand. This is especially so for the potato crops in Dumfries, where workers known as tatie coppers go over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries. A large proportion of the natives' time is taken up herding the stock. Peat-preserving also takes many hours of labour. An old dame said, It's the wan blessing we have, but what with the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it. In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as 80 turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound. The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of its almost treeless condition. The heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rock-fringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

9. De Quincey's 1800 ascent of Croagh Patrick and pilgrimage observation

   near Croagh Patrick · mountain or mountain range · Mayo · 1800

   Thomas De Quincey climbed Croagh Patrick in 1800 as a boy of fifteen and wrote home calling it 'the highest mountain in Ireland.' At the summit he found a circular wall where, on St. Patrick's Day, Catholics ran on their bare knees until the skin was off.

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   De Quincey, who as a boy of 15 climbed the mountain, in 1800, wrote home that Croagh Patrick was " the highest mountain in Ireland." At the top he found " a circular wall very rough and craggy, on which, at St. Patrick's Day, all the Papists, for many miles round, run on their kneea (quite bare) till the skin is off."

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 35

   As the companion tells it

   Croagh Patrick stands in Mayo. In 1800, Thomas De Quincey, fifteen years old, climbed it and wrote home that it was "the highest mountain in Ireland." At the top he found a circular wall, rough and craggy, where on St. Patrick's Day people came from miles around and ran on their bare knees till the skin was off.

10. Elphin's claim as Goldsmith's birthplace, commemorated 1897

    Elphin · town · Roscommon · 1728–1897

    Elphin is one of several places disputing the honour of Goldsmith's birthplace. In 1897 a window was erected in the church at Elphin commemorating the poet's birth there in 1728, a claim favoured by Dr. Stokes.

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    Here Goldsmith's father, the rector of Kilkenny West, added to his meagre resources by farming some 70 acres of the Lissoy Estate, but though the poet lived much of his early life here, the claim to the honour of his birthplace is disputed by Pallas, Forgucy, and Elphin, which Dr. Stokes favours most. The last, indeed, has boldly asserted its right by the erection (1897) of a window in the church commemorating the event there in 1728. At Edgeworthstown (17 miles north-east) Goldsmith learnt the "Three R's," as well as the village master's long store of "stories about ghosts, banshees, and fairies." Once, alack! — on his journey between that place and his home — he "actually committed the blunder of his own Comedy, mistaking a squire's house for an inn." To enumerate, however, even the chief incidents of his life ; his unhappy time at Trinity College, his idleness at home, the final departure from his native land, Avhen he was 24 years old ; to describe a career which passed from medical study to literary vagaries and philosophical vagabondism, oi the distressing restraint of a moneyless author, the ill-paid production of masterpieces such as the Vicar of IVakcfield and of the " Deserted Village," and all the events of the life of that

    182 DUBLIN TO GALWAY

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Elphin makes a bold claim. It says it is the birthplace of the poet Oliver Goldsmith, and in 1897 it put that claim into glass. A window was erected in the church here, commemorating Goldsmith's birth in 1728. The claim is disputed. Pallas and Forgucy also say they are where the poet was born. But Dr. Stokes favoured Elphin most, and Elphin did not wait for agreement. It asserted its right with the window. Goldsmith's father was the rector of Kilkenny West. He added to his meagre resources by farming some 70 acres of the Lissoy Estate. The poet lived much of his early life in this part of the country. His later years took him further afield. He studied at Trinity College, left his native land when he was 24 years old, and passed from medical study to literary work. He wrote masterpieces such as the Vicar of Wakefield and the Deserted Village. But Elphin ties him to one thing. A date, 1728, and a window, 1897, saying he began here.

11. Glencar and Mrs. Siberry's tea-house

    Glencar · electoral division · Sligo

    Glencar, 'the glen of the pillar-stone,' lies eight miles from Sligo. On its north side, Mrs. Siberry's tea-house, unique in Ireland, was famous for home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes baked in a pot-oven, with limited accommodation for visitors seeking the simple life.

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    Glencar ("the glen of the pillar-stone"), is 8 miles from Sligo, smaller, and not so beautiful as Lough Gill, but it makes a delightful round nevertheless. On the north side is Mrs. Siberry's tea-house, of a kind unique in Ireland. Mrs. Siberry, who is known far and wide, is an adept at home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes, baked in a "pot-oven." Her milk and cream are in keeping, and let no one think they have " done " the neighbourhood of Sligo until they have bad tea here. While those who want to live the " siinj)le life," in its most attractive form, will do well to secure accommodation, which is very limited, long beforehand.

    From the cottage a short rise leads to

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    Glencar means the glen of the pillar-stone. It lies eight miles from Sligo. On the north side is Mrs. Siberry's tea-house, a thing unique in Ireland. Mrs. Siberry is known far and wide for her home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes, all baked in a pot-oven. Her milk and cream are in keeping. The book says let no one think they have done the neighbourhood of Sligo until they have had tea here. For those who want to live the simple life in its most attractive form, there is accommodation, but it is very limited and should be secured long beforehand.

12. High Island monastery of St. Feichiu

    High Island · townland · Galway · 630–640

    High Island (Ardilaun) was the monastic home of St. Feichiu, who raised churches and cells there around 630-640. The principal ruin is a chapel at the south end; since Petrie's exploration the monastery's cells have been shamefully destroyed, with only two now standing.

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    High Island (or Ardiladn). This uninhabited island, the lomantic homo of St. Feichiu and his monks, was explored by Petrie and has been well described in the E.S.A.I. Journal, 1896, by Mr. ilacalister, from whom wo borrow. Not far from Castlepollard, amid the bog-lands of Westmeath, there are at Fore the interesting remains of the once important religious settlement of Saint Feichiu. This vigorous monk was the first to preach the Gospel to the wild westerns of Galway, and at Omey and on High Island he raised churches and cells. " We may perhaps regard ourselves as tolerably correct if we assign 630-640 as about the date of the foundation of the latter." Gonngall, "the blue-eyed foreigner," probably lived here and died on Ardillaun in 1017.

    The island is only accessible in calm weather, and then the landing (at the north-east) is difBcult. The Chapel, the principal ruin, is at the south end near the larger loughlet. As it is 3 feet longer than Molaise's Chapel on Inismurray, it is not quite the smallest chapel in the British Isles. The lintel over the west door was once a " monumental cross," and the most interesting cross here is on the south side. Since Petrie's day the place has been shamefully destroyed ; the cells or dochans of the monastery have suflered much, and only two now stand. Though the existence of the monks' mill may be disputed, the pilgrims' offerings sufficiently indicate the ancient fame of the Holy Well, in the centre of the island.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to High Island, off the coast of Galway, lies the monastic home of St. Feichiu and his monks. Feichiu was a vigorous monk, the first to preach the Gospel to the wild western people of Galway. He raised churches and cells here, and at Omey, around 630 to 640. A man called Gonngall, described as the blue-eyed foreigner, probably lived here and died on the island in 1017. The island is only accessible in calm weather, and the landing at the north-east is difficult. The chapel, the principal ruin, stands at the south end near the larger loughlet. It is 3 feet longer than Molaise's Chapel on Inismurray, so it is not quite the smallest chapel in the British Isles. The lintel over the west door was once a monumental cross, and the most interesting cross here is on the south side. Since Petrie explored the place, the monastery has been shamefully destroyed. The cells, or dochans, have suffered badly, and only two now stand. In the centre of the island there is a Holy Well. Whether the monks' mill truly existed may be disputed, but the pilgrims' offerings there sufficiently indicate the ancient fame of the well. The island was explored by Petrie and described in 1896 in the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland Journal by Mr. Macalister.

13. Murder of Brian Boroimhe's grandson at Castleconnell Castle

    Castleconnell · town · Limerick

    Castleconnell takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, crowning a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. Tradition holds that the grandson of Brian Boroimhe was lured into the castle by the Prince of Thomond, blinded, and then cruelly murdered there.

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    The village, much cleaner and neater than most Irish villages, takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high and solitary rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe is said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Tlioniond, who, having put out his eyes, afterwards cruelly murdered ,him. The fortress was subsequently occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days, and blown up with gunpowder.

    Though Castleconnell is to be ranked liigh upon the fisherman's list, there is hardly any free fishing, and the salmon

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Castleconnell takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. Tradition says the grandson of Brian Boroimhe was inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Thomond, who put out his eyes and afterwards cruelly murdered him. Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, later occupied the fortress. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of 2 days and blown up with gunpowder.

14. St. Enda founds western seat of Christianity on Aranmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 470

    St. Enda, son of Conall Deary and originally an abbot in Italy, arrived on Aranmore around 470. He accepted the North Island as a gift from Aengus, King of Cashel, and founded one of the most important western seats of Christianity.

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    When the mist of the past begins to lift, the earliest inhabitants that can be descried are the Firbolgs, and when St. Enda appears, Corbanus is the island king over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe, near Ballyvaughan. The North Island, at least, had been strongly fortified centuries before this, if we may trust our best archi-eologists. Enda, or Eany, the son of Conall Deary, was brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel. Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's death (470), accepting from Aengus his gift of the North Island, and founded one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity.

    The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great icesheet that seems to have descended hither from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay " to such an extent that it extended aU over the Ai-an Islands, where Mr. Kinahan has observed striae pointing about north 25 east " (Hull). The antiquarian will find here "a typical collection of nearly all of the more remarkable structures of pre-Nonnan times," from cromlechs and " beehive " cells to "churches with chancels."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through or near Inishmore. When the mist of the past lifts, the earliest inhabitants that can be made out are the Firbolgs. By the time St. Enda appears, Corbanus is the island king over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe, near Ballyvaughan. The North Island had been strongly fortified centuries before this, if we may trust our best archaeologists. Enda, or Eany, the son of Conall Deary, was brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel. Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's death, in 470. He accepted from Aengus his gift of the North Island, and founded one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity. The antiquarian will find here a typical collection of nearly all of the more remarkable structures of pre-Norman times, from cromlechs and beehive cells to churches with chancels. A geologist will note the last westward records of the great icesheet that descended from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay.

15. Tuam Cathedral old church converted to Synod Hall and library

    Tuam · town · Galway · 1863–1878

    An older church joined to the east end of Tuam Cathedral was used as a cathedral until the present one opened in 1878 after fifteen years of construction costing over £20,000. The old church now serves as a Synod Hall and houses a Diocesan Library presented by the Rev. Jos. Henry, D.D.

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    nothing remains but the chancel of St. Mary's and a small part of the old parish church, which now stands in the middle of the ancient burial ground close to the present Cathedral. The chancel arch is of Hiberno-Romanesque architecture, and consists of six circumscribed semicircles, elaborately ornamented in low relief. Dr. Petrie, In writing of the church, says, "Of the ancient church of Tuam the chancel only remains ; but fortunately it is sufficient to make us acquainted with its general style of architectiu-e, and to show that it was not only a larger, but more splendid structure than Cormac's church at Cashel, and not unworthy of the powerful monarch to whom it chiefly owed its erection. The arch mouldings consist of diamond, fret, and varieties of the chevron, all carved with exquisite perfection. The original East window of the chancel remains. It is a triplet carved with most elaborate interlaced work, like that of the ancient Irish crosses. This window is oue of the most perfect examples I know of interlaced ornament in stone." Joined to the East end of the Cathedral is a much older church, which was used as a Cathedral till the present one was opened in 1S78, after being fifteen years in erection, at an outlay of over £20,000. The old church is now used as a Synod Hall, a portion of it being set apart as a Diocesan Library. This valuable library was presented to the diocese by the Rev. Jos. Henry, D.D., formerly British chaplain in Lima, Peru. In the Synod Hall are some beautifully carved and inlaid choir stalls, which were found in Italy and were purchased by the late Mr. E. J. Cooper of Markree Castle, for £3000, and after his decease presented to the diocese.

    Outside the Roman Catholic Cathedral, at the far end of the town, are several statues, iueludiug one to Father MacHale, by Farrell. Within is a baldachino of marble.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Tuam, the town holds a cathedral with a story layered into its walls. Joined to the east end of the present Cathedral is a much older church, which served as the cathedral itself until the new one opened in 1878. That present Cathedral took fifteen years to build, at an outlay of over £20,000. The old church now serves as a Synod Hall, with a portion set apart as a Diocesan Library. That library was presented to the diocese by the Rev. Jos. Henry, D.D., formerly a British chaplain in Lima, Peru. Little remains of the ancient church of Tuam except its chancel, standing in the middle of the old burial ground close to the Cathedral. The chancel arch is Hiberno-Romanesque, six semicircles elaborately ornamented in low relief. Dr. Petrie wrote of it that it was not only a larger but more splendid structure than Cormac's church at Cashel, and not unworthy of the powerful monarch to whom it chiefly owed its erection. The arch mouldings consist of diamond, fret, and varieties of the chevron, all carved with what he called exquisite perfection. The original east window remains, a triplet carved with elaborate interlaced work like that of the ancient Irish crosses. Petrie called it one of the most perfect examples he knew of interlaced ornament in stone. In the Synod Hall itself are beautifully carved and inlaid choir stalls, found in Italy and purchased by the late Mr. E. J. Cooper of Markree Castle for £3,000, then presented to the diocese after his death.

16. Ballynahinch fishery and Thackeray's praise

    Ballynahinch · townland · Galway

    The Ballynahinch fishery district at the foot of the Twelve Bens was one of the best fishing centres in Ireland, with principal waters including Lough Ballynahinch, Loughs Glendalough, Inagh, Derryclare, and Oorid. Thackeray declared the beauty here rivalled Killarney.

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    Lough Ballynahinch, together with the north-eastern loughs of Derryclare and Inagli, its feedei-s, curves crescent-Avise round the eastern feet of the Twelve Bens. Thackeray in his enthusiasm declared that the beauty here rivalled that of Killarney,

    " I won't attempt," ho wrote, "to pile up big words in place of those wild mountains, over which the clouds as they passed, or the sunshine as it went and came, cast every variety of tint, light and shadow ; nor can it be expected that long level sentences, however smooth and shining, can be made to pass as representations of those calm lakes by which we lo'lc our way. All one can do is to lay down the pen and ruminate, and cry 'Beautiful!' once more ; and to the reader say ' Come and see ! ' "

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Ballynahinch, Lough Ballynahinch curves round the eastern feet of the Twelve Bens, fed by the loughs of Derryclare and Inagh. This was one of the best fishing centres in Ireland. Thackeray passed through and declared the beauty here rivalled Killarney. He wrote that he would not attempt to pile up big words in place of those wild mountains, over which the clouds as they passed, or the sunshine as it went and came, cast every variety of tint, light and shadow. Long level sentences, however smooth and shining, could not pass as representations of those calm lakes. All one could do, he wrote, was lay down the pen and cry "Beautiful!" once more, and to the reader say "Come and see!"

17. Church of St. Brecan, the Seven Churches

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 500–600

    The Church of St. Brecan, called without reason the 'Seven Churches,' was probably founded by the 6th-century bishop Brecan, who also founded Ardbrecan in Meath and several churches in County Clare. It contains an early window, a Latin inscription, St. Brecan's broken headstone, and a carved cross.

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    dome is formed by the projection of one stone beyond another till the walls meet in one flag at the apex " [M. Stokes). The Church of St. Brecan is only ^ mile to the north and is worth a visit. This, which without reason is called the "Seven Churches," was probably founded by Brecan, the 6th-century bishop who founded Ardbrecan (Meath) and several churches in County Clare. It contains a very early window in the north wall ; and once had a monastery on the north side. Observe the inscription, "vii ro-ma-ni," on a stone to the south-west, which proves the extensive reputation of the monastery ; the broken headstone of St. Brecan's grave ; and, higher up, tho broken but splendidly carved cross. The "Saint's Bed " is pointed out.

    INISHMAAN, or Middle Island, is divided by Gregory Sound, about li mile in width. Dun Conor, named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious oval shape, and, though terribly " restored," is a fine fort. Tlie story of Mailly, the murderer, should be learnt from a native. TeampuU Murry i (St. Mary's Church) is of 16th-century date. The saint Kenerg, wliose " bed " is here, was the brother of the lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Church, with an uncommon west door, may be dedicated.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Inishmore, there is a place known as the Church of St. Brecan. It is called the Seven Churches, though there is no reason for that name. It was probably founded by Brecan, a bishop of the 6th century, the same man who founded Ardbrecan in Meath and several churches in County Clare. The church still holds marks of its age. There is a very early window set in the north wall. A monastery once stood on the north side of the church. On a stone to the south-west, you can find the inscription "vii ro-ma-ni," which shows how widely the monastery was known. The broken headstone of St. Brecan's grave is there. Higher up, there is a cross, broken but splendidly carved. And the Saint's Bed is pointed out to visitors. All of this belongs to a man who built churches across the west of Ireland and beyond, a bishop whose name stayed attached to this place on Inishmore long after his time.

18. Cliffs of Moher with O'Brien's Tower

    near Cliffs of Moher · cliff or cliffs · Clare

    The Cliffs of Moher, about six miles from Lehinch, rise 600 feet almost vertically and are capped by O'Brien's Tower. The approach passes St. Bridget's Holy Well, and from the clifftop the Isles of Aran and the mountains of Connemara are visible across the sea.

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    as a line uphill to a column with a figure on the summit. Thence take left at next fork and pass St. Bridget's Holy Well. It is all uphill. Continue until a curious ruin is suen in a field on the left. Then pass through a gate to it ; cj'cles and motors may be left here, and a short walk of J mile over easy grass brings us to the head of the cliffs capped by O'Brien's Tower. Few cliffs worth seeing are as easily accessible. Slabs of slate are so ari'anged as to reassure the most nervous, and by looking over this "railing" we may see a glorious view. The cliffs themselves are 600 feet in height and almost vertical. Only by noting the diminutiveness of a boat below can we gauge the real altitude. Black as ink in places and studded by countless seabirds, their grandeur and solemnity is remarkable. The crags below add to the scene, and away to sea the Isles of Aran are spread out like a map between us and the distant mountains of Connemara,

    From Lehinch the railway goes southward to Milltown Malbay. About 2 miles south of this is Spanish Point, where several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked. After this the scenery calls for no remark. At Doonbeg the railway turns inland to Moyasta junction for Kilkee and Kikush (see p. 196).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Cliffs of Moher, the cliffs rise 600 feet, almost vertical, and O'Brien's Tower stands capped on their head. The approach is all uphill. You pass St. Bridget's Holy Well along the way, and continue until a curious ruin appears in a field. Beyond a gate, cycles and motors may be left behind, and a short walk over easy grass brings you to the top. Few cliffs worth seeing are as easily accessible as these. Slabs of slate are arranged as a railing, so that even the most nervous may look over and take in the view. The cliffs themselves are black as ink in places and studded by countless seabirds. Their grandeur and solemnity is remarkable. Only by noting how small a boat looks below can you gauge the real altitude. The crags below add to the scene, and away to sea the Isles of Aran are spread out, as the book says, like a map between you and the distant mountains of Connemara. From Lehinch the railway goes southward to Milltown Malbay. About 2 miles south of that is Spanish Point, where several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked.

19. Druid altar (Tobernalt) near Lough Gill

    near Lough Gill · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Near a school close to Lough Gill, a Druid altar called Toher NAlt, described as older than history, was said to be a site of human sacrifice. Ferns, ice-cold well water, and mysterious depths create a weird and uncanny scene.

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    Dromohair. This means a detour from the lake, as there is no road close to the south side for some miles. At Dromohair {Hotel: (I.A.C., C) Abbey), there are O'Eourke's Castle, with walls of prodigious thickness, and St. Munchin's Abbey to be seen. From here the road wends back to the lough through a gorge, and on reaching it careful watch should be kept for a path on the right, leading through the woods to the Dooney Rock, whence the most beautiful view of the lough is obtained. The richly wooded isles and headlands, the luxuriant masses of beech and oak, give a character all its own to this charming scene. Not far from this, near a school, there is to be found the most interesting sight of all, Toher ISTAlt, a Druid altar, older than history, on which undoubtedly at one time human sacrifices were offered. The ferns growing out of the rock recesses, the constant flow of ice-cold water in the well, and the mysterious depths all add to a weird and almost uncanny scene of beauty and fascination. Total distance for the round and back to Sligo, 23 miles. As to fishing, salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful in the lough, and permission may be obtained by anglers from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

    The fishing on the other Sligo beauty spot, Glencar, is subject to more restriction. Application as above, when terms can be ascertained.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass along Lough Gill, the guide calls the most interesting sight of all a Druid altar called Tobernalt, found near a school close to the lake. It is described as older than history, and the writer says that undoubtedly human sacrifices were once offered on it. Ferns grow out of the rock recesses, ice-cold water flows constantly in the well, and the mysterious depths add to what the book calls a weird and almost uncanny scene of beauty and fascination. The round trip from here back to Sligo is 23 miles. The lough itself holds salmon, trout, and pike, and anglers could get permission to fish from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

20. Early pagan inhabitants of Aranmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The earliest identifiable inhabitants of Aranmore were the Firbolgs, ruled by an island king named Corbanus when St. Enda arrived. Corbanus ruled over a colony of pagans believed to have come from Corcomroe near Ballyvaughan.

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    When the mist of the past begins to lift, the earliest inhabitants that can be descried are the Firbolgs, and when St. Enda appears, Corbanus is the island king over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe, near Ballyvaughan. The North Island, at least, had been strongly fortified centuries before this, if we may trust our best archi-eologists. Enda, or Eany, the son of Conall Deary, was brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel. Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's death (470), accepting from Aengus his gift of the North Island, and founded one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity.

    The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great icesheet that seems to have descended hither from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay " to such an extent that it extended aU over the Ai-an Islands, where Mr. Kinahan has observed striae pointing about north 25 east " (Hull). The antiquarian will find here "a typical collection of nearly all of the more remarkable structures of pre-Nonnan times," from cromlechs and " beehive " cells to "churches with chancels."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Inishmore, the earliest inhabitants that can be seen when the mist of the past lifts are the Firbolgs. When St. Enda appears, Corbanus is the island king, ruling over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe, near Ballyvaughan. The North Island had been strongly fortified centuries before this, if the best archaeologists are to be trusted. Enda, or Eany, was the son of Conall Deary, and brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel. Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's death in 470, accepting from Aengus his gift of the North Island, and founded one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity. The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great ice-sheet that descended from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay, extending all over the Aran Islands, where striae have been observed pointing about north 25 east. The antiquarian will find here a typical collection of nearly all the more remarkable structures of pre-Norman times, from cromlechs and beehive cells to churches with chancels.

21. Local industries of crochet-lace and tweeds at Leenane

    Leenaun · townland · Galway

    The local industries in the Leenane area include the production of crochet-lace and tweeds, which can be seen in both the process of manufacture and as finished articles. Women and girls in the Killery area also favor a rich red dye for their home-spun woollen.

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    Thus we pass along Killery which means "red valley" and the name is well-deserved, as the rocks on every side have a curious, reddish-purple tinge, giving the impression of blooming heather. Also here, more than elsewhere, a rich red dye for their home-spun woollen is in great favour with women and girls, and many a fine view is touched up in the foreground by a flaming bit of colour. The local industries are crochet-lace and tweeds, specimens of which, both in the process of manufacture and as the finished article, can be seen at Leenane.

    The direct road [good cycling) from Letterfrack to; Leenane, a distance of 12^ miles, after passing the Post Ofiice, and for a mile and a half, consists of an avenue of fuchsias of unusual height and flower. We have never seen this shrub growing in greater luxuriance in our islands ; not even in the Port Erin country in the Isle of Man. The air at Letterfrack is of that mild freshness characteristic of the neighbourhood. The little town lies between the Twelve Pins and the sea.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Leenane, the local industries to look out for are crochet-lace and tweeds. You can see both the process of manufacture and the finished articles at Leenane itself. This place sits on Killery, a name that means red valley, and the name is well-deserved. The rocks on every side have a curious reddish-purple tinge, giving the impression of blooming heather. In this area, more than elsewhere, a rich red dye for home-spun woollen is in great favour with women and girls, and many a fine view is touched up in the foreground by a flaming bit of colour. So as you come through, you may catch the lace work and the tweed being made, and you may see that warm red woollen worn by the women of the Killery area. The whole setting earns its name, with the purple-red rocks surrounding the place and the colour carrying through into the clothes people make and wear.

22. Loop Head: Cuchullin's Leap tradition

    Loop Head · promontory · Clare

    Loop Head, properly Leap Head or Cuchullin's Leap, takes its name from a tradition that the Ulster knight Cuchullin, pursued by a termagant woman called Mai, leapt onto a small rock about 25 feet from the mainland. He leapt back safely, but Mai fell into the waves and perished.

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    Loop Head (16 miles from Kilkee), properly Leap Head, or Cuchulliu's Leap. The tradition is that Cuchullin a knight of Ulster, on being pursued by a termagant woman called Mai, reached the extremity of Clare, and discovering that she was still close in pursuit, leapt on to a small rock about 25 feet fi'om the mainland. The termagant succeeded also in reaching the rock, whereupon Cuchullin immediately leapt back, but the woman, not succeeding in her second attempt to follow him, fell into the waves and perished.

    See West Clare Railway, pp. 204, 214.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Loop Head, the promontory takes its old name, Cuchullin's Leap. The tradition says Cuchullin, a knight of Ulster, was pursued by a termagant woman called Mai. When she kept chasing him to the extremity of Clare, he leapt onto a small rock about 25 feet from the mainland. Mai reached the rock too, so Cuchullin leapt straight back. She tried to follow but failed, fell into the waves, and perished.

23. Lough Ree as frontier of Hy-Many and Meath

    near Lough Ree · lake or lakes · Westmeath

    Lough Ree, formerly called Lough Ribh, served as the frontier between Hy-Many (the O'Kelly principality) on the west and Kilkenny West in the kingdom of Meath on the east.

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    This " Lough of the Kings " formed the frontier line between Hy-Many, the principality of the O'Kelly's, on the west, and " Kilkenny West," in the kingdom of Meath, on the east.

    Among several interesting islands we may mention Inis Clothrann (or Quaker Island), named after the sister of Queen Mab (or Jleave). On the highest point of it once stood that queen's palace, and it was on the sunny strand below that she was bathing when the cowardly Ulster chief struck her dead with a stone from his sling. Professor Stokes states that St. Dermot is said to have lived here about the year 500 ; and the remains of seven churches can be traced. One of these called Templemurry, is of large size; it is said no woman could enter it and survive twelve months. The smallest Church is Templedermot, and the most remarkable, standing some distance from the others, has a square tower (the only instance in Ireland of an ancient Celtic Church thus shaped), joined or bonded on to

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Ree, once called Lough Ribh, known as the Lake of the Kings. It formed the frontier between Hy-Many, the principality of the O'Kellys, on the west, and Kilkenny West, in the kingdom of Meath, on the east. Among its islands is Inis Clothrann, or Quaker Island, named after the sister of Queen Mab. On the highest point of the island once stood that queen's palace. It was on the sunny strand below that she was bathing when the cowardly Ulster chief struck her dead with a stone from his sling. Professor Stokes states that St. Dermot is said to have lived here about the year 500. The remains of seven churches can be traced. One of these, called Templemurry, is of large size. It is said no woman could enter it and survive twelve months. The smallest church is Templedermot, and the most remarkable, standing some distance from the others, has a square tower joined or bonded on to it.

24. Roscommon Castle: Anglo-Norman fortress and Civil War destruction

    Roscommon · town · Roscommon · 1269–1691

    Roscommon Castle was built in 1269 under Justiciary Robert Ufford, replacing an earlier fortress. Its thick walls and semicircular towers survive as a total ruin; portions were still habitable during the Civil War but were destroyed by retreating forces after the Battle of Aughrim, apparently by gunpowder.

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    The Castle, visible from the railway station, about a quarter of a mile to the north of tlie town, was built in 1269, when the ofl5ce of Justiciary of Ireland was held by Robert DUtford. There is, however, no doubt that a fortress of a much earlier date

    i6

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Roscommon holds the ruins of a castle built in 1269, when Robert Ufford was Justiciary of Ireland. It replaced an earlier fortress. Thick walls and semicircular towers survive as a total ruin. Portions were still habitable during the Civil War, but retreating forces destroyed them after the Battle of Aughrim, apparently by gunpowder.

25. Tuam traces importance to 6th-century Saint Jarlath

    Tuam · town · Galway · 500–1834

    Tuam traces its importance back to the 6th-century saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery there. It remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834.

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    From Athenry it is 16 miles northwards to Tuam {Hotel: Guy's Imperial), a pleasant, and in some ways smart little town. On the other hand it looks the humblest of cities ; yet it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, and traces its importance back to the 6th-centui'y saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient Cross with carvings, described thus by Miss Stokes: — "Crucifixion on one side ; figure of a bishop on the other ; a funeral procession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work.

    Tlie chief buildings in the town are the two Cathedrals, that ol St. Mary (Church of Ireland) and that of St. Jarlath (Roman Catholic). The former carries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam. Of these ancient churches

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through Tuam, a town in Galway that traces its importance back to the 6th-century Saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery there. It remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834. There is a fine ancient cross in the centre with carvings described by Miss Stokes: "Crucifixion on one side; figure of a bishop on the other; a funeral procession, apparently, on the reverse." It bears inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work. The chief buildings in the town are the two cathedrals, that of St. Mary, the Church of Ireland cathedral, and that of St. Jarlath, the Roman Catholic cathedral. The former carries the mind back to a time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam.

26. Franciscan Abbey at Cong, founded 1290

    Cong · parish · Galway · 1290–1737

    A Franciscan abbey was built at Cong in 1290 and dissolved in 1537, yet the friars remained around their home for two further centuries. The tower has tracened windows and a chapel on its north side still used once a year for Mass.

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    Franciscan Abbey was built in 1290 in a picturesque situation ; and even after the dissolution in 1537 the faithful friars lingered round their home for two hundred years, r; The tower, with tracened windows, is graceful ; and on the north of it is a chapel still used once a year for celebration of Mass. The east window of the chancel is of the .same (15th century) date as the tower. Tlie cloisters and friary buildings stood on the south side. The C<istle was one of the Clanricarde foundations.

    At 5 miles we pass on the left the Inchacommaun islands, and shortly afterwards on our right Rabbit Island, where Lord Headley frequently camps. Further on, on the right, we see Annaghdown Castle and Abbey, both in ruins.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Cong, there is a Franciscan abbey founded in 1290. It was dissolved in 1537, but the friars lingered round their home for two hundred years after. The tower still stands, with tracened windows, graceful in its proportions. On the north side of the tower is a chapel still used once a year for the celebration of Mass. The east window of the chancel dates from the 15th century, the same period as the tower. The cloisters and friary buildings stood on the south side. The castle was one of the Clanricarde foundations.

27. Round Tower and ruined churches of Scattery Island

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare · 800–1600

    Scattery Island's Round Tower is the tallest in Ireland and uniquely has a door at ground level, dating to the 9th–10th century. The site also includes a Cathedral, an early Oratory with a romanesque chancel arch, Senan's Well, Temple Senan chapel, the height of Ard-na-n-Angeal, ruins of Temple-a-Mary, and a 16th-century castle. The Clogh Oir (Golden Bell) of Senan is preserved by the Keane family of Ennis.

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    There is an interesting description of the ruined buildings of Scattery in the E. S.A.I. Handbook, 1898 {IVestro])])) ; a few notes will here suffice. The Round Tower is the tallest in Ireland, and is exceptional in having a door on the ground level. Miss Stokes notes that as its masonry is not "hammer-dressed," it may be dated among the earliest (9th to 10th century). The

    196 KILEUSH— KILKEE

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Scattery Island, ruins stand from an early monastic site. The Round Tower here is the tallest in Ireland, and unusual for having its door at ground level. Its masonry is not "hammer-dressed," which may place it among the earliest, in the 9th or 10th century. Miss Stokes noted these details in an 1898 handbook.

28. Struth-an-ail-an-erd stream anomaly, Glencar

    Glencar · electoral division · Sligo

    At the county-boundary bridge west of Mrs. Siberry's cottage, when the wind blows from a certain point, the water of the Struth-an-ail-an-erd stream is driven upwards and back over the mountain.

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    minutes' climb among rocks and foliage. Westward from the cottage, along the road, is the county-boundary bridge ; and here, when the wind blows from a certain point, the water of the Struth-an-ail-an-erd stream is driven upwards and back again over the mountain. Another path behind the cottage leads to the "Swiss Valley." Among these northern rocks fern-collectors may find some uncommon specimens, which for obvious reasons we forbear to name.

    The excursion to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains. The whole round is about 13 miles. By taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group of ancient crondechs and stone monuments at Cakrowmore. A few miles nortli-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea, " the Hill of Executions " (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 45). The fine view extends from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Glencar in Sligo, there is a stream that does something strange. West of Mrs. Siberry's cottage, along the road, stands the county-boundary bridge. Here the Struth-an-ail-an-erd stream comes down from the mountain. But when the wind blows from a certain point, the water is driven upwards and back again over the mountain. No explanation is given, only the fact. Behind the cottage a path leads to what is called the Swiss Valley. Among the northern rocks, fern-collectors may find uncommon specimens, which the guide forbears to name. A few minutes' climb among rocks and foliage leads there. From this area an excursion to Knocknarea runs about 13 miles round. By the southern road, in 3 miles, stands the great group of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments at Carrowmore. Knocknarea, the Hill of Executions, rises 1078 feet. On its top is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to honour Queen Meave, who buried three husbands before she herself departed. The heap of stones measures 200 yards in circumference. The view extends from Slieve League to Nephin.

29. Askeaton's Desmond castle, Templar church and Franciscan Abbey

    Askeaton · townland · Limerick · 1419

    Askeaton is remarkable for its ancient buildings including a Norman castle of the Desmonds, a Knights Templars' Church, and a Franciscan Abbey founded in 1419 with uncommon cloisters.

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    AsKEATON (railway station), remarkable for its ancient buildings. Its Nonnan castle of the Desmonds ; Knights Templars' Church ; and Franciscan Abbey (1419), with uncommon cloisters, are all worth visiting.

    Four miles inland, and south from Askcaton, is BallingraDe Junction, which is 2 miles from Ralhkcalc station. Here Is another Desmond Castle and several ancient buildings, including an "Early English" Priory. At the beginning of the last centui-y some Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate settled in this neighbourhood.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Askeaton is remarkable for its ancient buildings. There is a Norman castle of the Desmonds, a Knights Templars' Church, and a Franciscan Abbey, founded in 1419, with uncommon cloisters. All are worth visiting.

30. Bishop Walsham How's death at Dhulough, 1897

    Doolough · townland · Mayo · 1897

    The house overlooking Dhulough at Delphi was where Walsham How, the late Bishop of Wakefield, died while on a fishing holiday in 1897. The Delphi pass and surrounding mountain and sea views are described as among the finest in the British Isles.

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    is the Rev. E. Spencer Gough, rector of Baruingham, Yorkshire. The road from Leenane around by Aasleagh and Delphi to the upper end of Dhulough offers a delightful cycling run, and includes some mountain and sea views not to be surpassed in the British Isles, During the Royal tour in Ireland, in 1903, the King of Greece paid a special visit to Delphi, Princess Victoria and the Lord-Lieutenant spending some time in fishing the river and lake, the Royal party afterwards taking tea at the Lodt,'e, The house overlooking Dhulough is an attractive feature on going through the Delphi pass. It was here that Walsham How, the late Bishop of Wakefield, died while on a fishing holiday in 1897. The road which branches off to the right just below Dhulough is a rather rough road, but the views of Tauyard Lake, and in the ShefiFry Pass, are of a wild, and it might be said, magnificent character. It is the most attractive route from Delphi, and also the shorter to Westport, and is by no means impassable for a carriage and pair. The district is known as the Barony of Murrisk, a very ancient name, a corruption of a word meaning a sea-marsh.

    Louisburgh (21 miles from Leenane and 14 from Westport ; Hotels: (I.A.C., C.) M'Dermott's (small, modern); (0.) M'Girr's (also small)) is a dull village of 400 inhabitants, within a mile of the sea, and as free as Athenry from all attempt to adorn itself with outward attraction. There is salmon fishing in the rivers near for 10s. a day. Boats can be had to visit Glare Island, to which it is the nearest point. Its only piece of antiquity is the disused chapel, now converted to secular uses.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Doolough, a house overlooks the water, an attractive feature in the Delphi pass. It was here that Walsham How, the late Bishop of Wakefield, died while on a fishing holiday in 1897. The road from Leenane around by Aasleagh and Delphi to the upper end of Dhulough was described as a delightful cycling run, with mountain and sea views not to be surpassed in the British Isles. During the Royal tour in Ireland in 1903, the King of Greece paid a special visit to Delphi. Princess Victoria and the Lord-Lieutenant spent some time fishing the river and lake, and the Royal party afterwards took tea at the Lodge. A road branches off just below Dhulough, a rather rough road, but the views of Tauyard Lake and in the Sheeffry Pass are of a wild and magnificent character. It is the most attractive route from Delphi and the shorter way to Westport, and by no means impassable for a carriage and pair. The district is known as the Barony of Murrisk, a very ancient name, a corruption of a word meaning a sea-marsh.

31. Castleconnell Castle siege and destruction, 1688

    Castleconnell · town · Limerick · 1688

    Castleconnell Castle, previously occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, held out for King James in 1688. After a siege lasting two days the fortress was taken and blown up with gunpowder.

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    The village, much cleaner and neater than most Irish villages, takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high and solitary rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe is said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Tlioniond, who, having put out his eyes, afterwards cruelly murdered ,him. The fortress was subsequently occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days, and blown up with gunpowder.

    Though Castleconnell is to be ranked liigh upon the fisherman's list, there is hardly any free fishing, and the salmon

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now through Castleconnell, a town that takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, set on a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe was said to have been lured into that castle by the Prince of Thomond, who blinded him and then cruelly murdered him. Later the fortress passed to Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but after a siege lasting just two days it was taken and blown up with gunpowder. Not much of it left after that.

32. Clifden town founded by D'Arcy, 1815

    Clifden · town · Galway · 1815

    Clifden originated through Mr. D'Arcy, who offered leases for ever with four acres of mountain land at twenty shillings per annum. As late as 1815 there was only a single house on the site, and the town is described as dusty and uninteresting.

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    Clifden {Hotels: (C.) Lyden's ; (I.A.C., C.) Railway; M'Donnell's). The town is dusty and uninteresting ; so late as the year 1815 there was only a single house on the site. Its origin is due to Mr. D' Arcy, who first pointed out the advantageous position, and offered "leases for ever, together with four acres of mountain land, at but a short distance from the projected town, at twenty shillings per annum." Clifden is favourably situated on a ridge at the head of the Bay of Ardbear, near the Atlantic coast, of which a fine view may be had from the neighbouring hills. The Owenglen river makes a picturesque cascade close to the town.

    The little town is overwhelmed both by the monster Workhouse and the huge Roman Catholic Cathedrah The latter has indeed a handsome spire ; but both these buildings are out of all proportion to the population here.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 30

    As the companion tells it

    Clifden sits on a ridge at the head of the Bay of Ardbear, near the Atlantic coast. The guidebook calls it dusty and uninteresting. As late as 1815 there was only a single house on the site. The town owes its origin to Mr. D'Arcy, who pointed out the advantageous position and offered "leases for ever, together with four acres of mountain land, at but a short distance from the projected town, at twenty shillings per annum." The Owenglen river makes a picturesque cascade close to the town, and fine views of the Atlantic coast may be had from the neighbouring hills. The little town is overwhelmed both by the monster workhouse and the huge Roman Catholic cathedral. The latter has a handsome spire, but both buildings are out of all proportion to the population here.

33. Ennis Franciscan Abbey, 13th century

    Ennis · town · Clare · 1200–1299

    The Franciscan Abbey in Ennis is described as the chief historical building of the town, a 13th-century structure whose chancel arch supports a curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles.

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    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    204 LIMERICK TO SLIGO

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Ennis is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, clean and prosperous, with good houses and fair shops. The people here are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud-swept statue stands the chief historical building of the town, the Franciscan Abbey. This is a 13th-century structure. Its chancel arch supports a tower the guide calls unpleasant but curious, bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest part of Ennis is at the bridge over the brown and rushing river that gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary stands the Martyrs' Pillar, raised in memory of the three who suffered death in Manchester in 1867. The pillar is chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details about its builders, down to the name of the stone-mason.

34. Execution of 'Fighting Fitzgerald' and burial at Turlough

    Turlough · townland · Mayo · 1786

    George Robert Fitzgerald, known as 'Fighting Fitzgerald,' was executed in Castlebar in 1786. His residence was at Turlough, about four miles east of Castlebar, where his remains lie among ruins in the demesne overlooked by an ancient round tower.

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    In Castlebar was executed in 1786 the notorious George Robert Fitzgerald, better known as "Fighting Fitzgerald." His residence was at Turlongh, about 4 miles east of Castlebar, where his remains rest among some ruins in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower. From the railway we obtain a good view of Croagh Patrick before reaching Westport (p. 230).

    For the routes from Westport (1) to Leenane and Clifden see page 223 (reverse way) ; (2) to Achill, page 232.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Turlough was the residence of George Robert Fitzgerald, known as 'Fighting Fitzgerald.' He was executed in Castlebar in 1786, and his remains rest here among ruins in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower.

35. Joyce family settlement in Iar-Connaught

    near Joyce Country · locality · Galway · 1272–1307

    The Joyce Country encompasses northern County Galway including Killery, Lough Corrib, Lough Mask, and the Maamturk Mountains. The first Joyce is said to have arrived in Ireland during the reign of Edward I and acquired extensive property in Iar-Connaught; the Joyces are reputed to be the tallest and strongest race in Ireland.

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    The Joyce Cotjntey comprehends the north of the county of Galway, including in its area Killery, part of Lough Conib, Lough Mask, and the group of the Maamturk Mountains. The first Joyce is said to have come to L-eland in the reign of Edward L, and acquired extensive property in Jar-Connaught. The Joyces have the reputation of being the tallest and strongest race in Ireland.

    In MwEELBEA (2688 feet), the noble mountain "which stands like a great watch-tower guarding the entrance to Killery Harbour," the Upper Silurian grits and conglomerates rise to their highest point in the west of Ireland. It is well worth ascending for the splendid views obtained : the hotel boatman is a good authority on the most convenient place for a start.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes through Joyce Country, the north of County Galway, taking in Killery, part of Lough Corrib, Lough Mask, and the Maamturk Mountains. The first Joyce is said to have come to Ireland in the reign of Edward the First, and acquired extensive property in Iar-Connaught. The Joyces have the reputation of being the tallest and strongest race in Ireland. Mweelbea, rising to 2688 feet, is described as a great watch-tower guarding the entrance to Killery Harbour. On its slopes the Upper Silurian grits and conglomerates rise to their highest point in the west of Ireland.

36. Prehistoric relics from deepened Shannon bed near Portumna

    Portumna · town · Galway

    When commissioners deepened the bed of the Shannon above Portumna to improve navigation, successive strata yielded stone hatchets, bronze spears and swords, iron implements, and antiquated firelocks, revealing a sequence of prehistoric and historic occupation.

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    A few miles above Portumna the Shannon was almost unnavigable until the commissioners deepened the bed of the river. During these operations a number of very interesting prehistoric relics were brought to light. In the greatest depths stone hatchets were found. In a sti'atum overlying this were bronze spears and swords ; a still nearer deposit contained implements of iron, such as swords and spear-heads ; and in the strata next the surface more modern implements, among which were antiquated firelocks.

    Banagher {Hotels : M'Intyre's ; (C.) Miss Miller's (Temp.)) is a market town on the left bank of the river, and the railway terminus of a branch line from Clara. The river is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, which is protected by two towers and a battery : connected with it there are large barracks. About a mile from the town is the well-known Banagher distillery. In the vicinity are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans, the last representative of whom died a little more thau half a century ago. He has been regarded as the " last Irish chief."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Portumna, the Shannon above the town was once almost unnavigable, until commissioners deepened the river bed. What they found beneath the water was a layered record of the people who lived along this river long before any road was here. At the greatest depths lay stone hatchets. Above that stratum, the diggers uncovered bronze spears and bronze swords. Closer to the surface came iron implements, swords and spear-heads of a later age. And nearest the top, more modern pieces turned up, among them antiquated firelocks, old guns from a time already fading into history. Each layer sat over the one below it, stone giving way to bronze, bronze to iron, iron to firearm, the river bed holding the sequence like a chronicle written in sediment. The Shannon carried these objects down or dropped them where the current slowed, and the mud closed over them, one age upon another, until the commissioners cut the channel deeper and brought them back into the light.

37. Sarsfield Bridge and Lord Fitzgibbon statue

    Sarsfield Bridge · street · Limerick · 1831–1855

    Sarsfield Bridge was erected in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, connecting County Clare with Newtown-Pery. A statue was erected on the bridge in 1855 to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava.

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    About a quarter of a mile to the south stands Sarsfield Bridge, erected in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, connecting the County of Clare with Newton-Pery. On this bridge a statue was erected in 1855 to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava. Just opposite is the Shannon Rowing Club-house, one of the prettiest and best built of its kind, a real ornament to the city. Tliere is a long line of quays running from the Sarsfield Bridge to the floating docks, which, with the more recently constructed graviug docks, have proved of great importance to the town.

    Newtown-Pery. — The better streets are all situated in this part of the city, which is laid out almost with the regularity of an American city, the streets being for the most part straight, and crossing each otlier at right angles, George's Street, futilely re-named O'Connell Street by the Nationalists, contains the principal shops and warehouses, many of them of imposing

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    A bridge across the Shannon, Sarsfield Bridge was erected in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, connecting the County of Clare with Newtown-Pery. On the bridge a statue was raised in 1855 to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava. Opposite the bridge stands the Shannon Rowing Club-house, called one of the prettiest and best built of its kind, a real ornament to the city. A long line of quays runs from Sarsfield Bridge to the floating docks, which, with the more recently constructed graving docks, have proved of great importance to the town. Newtown-Pery holds the better streets of the city, laid out almost with the regularity of an American city, the streets for the most part straight and crossing each other at right angles.

38. St. Benan's oratory and the Black Fort near Kilronan

    Kilronan · village · Galway

    On the ridge south-east of the founder's chief settlement on Aran is the 'unique' oratory of St. Benan, while south-west on the coast stands the remarkable Black Fort, which was unfortunately fast disappearing at the time of writing. Hops found growing nearby may be survivors of the monastery garden.

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    founder's chief settlement, and hither resorted Kieran of Clonmacnois, and Brendan of Smerwick before he left to cross the howling seas and sight the "spray-swept Hebrides." The hops found growing here may be the last survivors of the monastery garden. On the ridge (south-east) is the "unique" oratory of St. Benan ; and south-west on the coast is the very remarkable Black Fort, unfortunately fast disappearing.

    About a mile along the western (main) road out of Kilronan is the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years with Enda. A little beyond (south-west) is Dun Oghil, which is considered to have been "once a finer example than Dun Aengus" of the early fort. It is at the eastern extremity of the central prehistoric village, Baile luc Scan, a collection of ancient "beehive" cells, huts and forts. About 2 miles farther along the road is Kilmurvey. Near this (south-west) is MacDuach's Chapel, named after the saint who founded the church and tower near Gort in the 7th century. On the sea clitf, ^ mile from the chapel, is the celebrated

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    On the ridge south-east of the founder's chief settlement on Aran stands the oratory of St. Benan, called "unique." South-west on the coast is the Black Fort, a remarkable structure that was unfortunately fast disappearing when it was written about. Hops found growing near the settlement may be the last survivors of a monastery garden. Kieran of Clonmacnois came here, and so did Brendan of Smerwick, before he left to cross the howling seas and sight the "spray-swept Hebrides." Along the western road out of Kilronan is the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years with Enda. A little beyond is Dun Oghil, once considered a finer example than Dun Aengus of the early fort. It stands at the eastern end of the prehistoric village of Baile luc Scan, a collection of ancient beehive cells, huts and forts. Farther along the road is Kilmurvey. Near this is MacDuach's Chapel, named after the saint who founded the church and tower near Gort in the 7th century.

39. St. Mary's Church and the Siege Bell

    Athlone · town · Westmeath

    The tower of St. Mary's Church in Athlone still stands with its ancient bell. This bell rang out the famous peal that was the signal for the final assault during the 1691 siege.

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    seems to have had no idea of chivalry " — lived at the time of the siege of 1691. Of St. Mary's Church the tower with its ancient bell yet stands, from which rang out the famous " peal," referred to by Macaulay, the signal for the final assault above mentioned.

    On the Connaught side of the river, once stood tlie abbey of St. Peter — now only remembered by its name, which survives in St. Peter's Port.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Athlone in Westmeath, you are near the tower of St. Mary's Church, which still stands with its ancient bell. In the siege of 1691, that bell rang out the famous peal that Macaulay called the signal for the final assault.

40. Adare Manor designed by amateur mason Conolly

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1832

    Adare Manor, seat of the Earl of Dunraven, is a fine mansion built in 1832. The greater portion was designed by an amateur mason named Conolly, with no architect's drawings furnished, and features modern oak carving by local talent.

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    The Village Gate of Adare Manor is opposite the hotel. For a view of the Rouse turn right wlien the path forks within. It is a fine modern mansion built in 1832, and " the greater portion " was " designed by an amateur, a mason named Conolly, . . . not a single drawing having been furnished by an architect " (Memorials). The special feature to note is the beautiful modern oak carving on overmantels, staircase, etc., all done by local talent.

    The Quin family is from the younger branch of the descendants of OlioU Olum, King of Munster in the 3rd century.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Adare stands a fine mansion, the seat of the Earl of Dunraven, built in 1832. The greater portion was designed by an amateur, a mason named Conolly, not a single drawing having been furnished by an architect. The special feature to note is the beautiful modern oak carving on overmantels, staircase, and elsewhere, all done by local talent. The Quin family is from the younger branch of the descendants of Olioll Olum, King of Munster in the 3rd century.

41. Clare Abbey founded 1195 by Donald O'Brien

    Clareabbey · townland · Clare · 1195

    Clare Abbey was founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular. Its fine ruins are close to the railway line.

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    About 2 miles up-stream from Ardsollus Station (19| miles) is QuiN Abbey, an extensive and well-preserved ruin, founded for Franciscan friars, and dating probably irom 1402. An examination of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored at gi'eat cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The best things at Clare Castle (23 miles) are the fine meadows, with the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in the river Fergus. Close to the railway line (right) are the fine ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular.

    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stand the fine ruins of Clare Abbey. It was founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular. The ruins lie close to the railway line.

42. Franciscan Abbey (Poor Abbey) at Adare founded 1464

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1464

    The Franciscan Abbey at Adare, said to be the most celebrated of all Munster monasteries, had its foundation stone laid in 1464. Its cloisters on the north side are darkened by a giant central yew tree, reminiscent of Muckross Abbey at Killarney.

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    The left road from the above fork leads to the Poor or Franciscan Abbey, said to be the most celebrated of all the Munster monasteries. The foundation stone was laid in 1464, but most of the arches and much of the work are rude and plain. The effective tracery of the south and east windoivs is similar to that at the Augustinian Abbey, and at Muckross, Killarney. One is reminded of the latter ruin also by the cloisters on the N. side, much darkened by a giant central yew-tree.

    Across the grass, and near the village bridge, are seen the remains of the Castle, also within the park. A castle is known to have stood here before 1226, and may have been founded some years previously by the Anglo-Normans. "On the attainder of 'silken' Thomas, in 1536, the castle was forfeited to the Crown," and, passing to the Desmonds, was called Desmond Castle. It was dismantled by Cromwell. The Gate Tower contains the groove for the portcullis. Of the keep, built on the ancient Rath, the ruins are not imposing ; they are south-east of the inner ward. Near the castle is the old Parish Church of St. Nicholas. The chancel contains probably the original Norman walla, is "about the oldest building now remaining in Adare," and dates from something between 1280 and 1320. In 1806 it ceased to be used for the Protestant service, which was transferred to the Augustinian building.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Adare, there is a Franciscan abbey people called the Poor Abbey, said to be the most celebrated of all the Munster monasteries. The foundation stone was laid in 1464. Most of the arches and much of the work are rude and plain, but the tracery of the south and east windows is effective and similar to what you find at the Augustinian Abbey and at Muckross in Killarney. The cloisters on the north side are darkened by a giant central yew tree, which also brings Muckross to mind. Across the grass and near the village bridge stand the remains of a castle. A castle is known to have been here before 1226, and may have been founded some years earlier by the Anglo-Normans. On the attainder of silken Thomas in 1536, the castle was forfeited to the Crown. Passing to the Desmonds, it was called Desmond Castle. Cromwell dismantled it. The gate tower still contains the groove for the portcullis. The keep was built on the ancient rath, and its ruins are south-east of the inner ward. Near the castle is the old Parish Church of St. Nicholas. The chancel probably contains the original Norman walls and is about the oldest building now remaining in Adare, dating from between 1280 and 1320. In 1806 it ceased to be used for Protestant service, which was transferred to the Augustinian building.

43. Maynooth Castle founded by Maurice Fitzgerald

    Maynooth · town · Kildare · 1176–1547

    Maynooth Castle was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton during the reign of Henry VIII but later restored to the family; the keep and several towers remain.

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    The Castle of Maynooth, adjoining the college, was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald, and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton, in the reign of Henry VIII., but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the surrounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength.

    The Protestant Episcopal Church, erected in the beginning of the 16th century by Earl Gerald Fitzgerald, has an imposing 12

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 3

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Maynooth, you are near a Fitzgerald stronghold founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald. John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare, repaired and strengthened it in 1426. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton in the reign of Henry the Eighth, but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the surrounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength.

44. Connemara Marble quarry at Recess

    near Recess · population centre · Galway

    At Recess stood the principal quarry of Connemara Marble, an ornamental stone described by Dr. Hull as composed of crystalline limestone and serpentine. Specimens were displayed in the Geological Museum of Trinity College Dublin and the Dublin Museum.

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    At Recess is the principal quarry of the famous ornamental stone known as Cnmvcmara Marble, described by Dr. Hull as composed of " crystalline limestone and serpentine." Those who have seen the pillars and facings of the Entrance Hall at the New Geological Museum of Trinity College, Dublin, will remember the beautiful green colouring of this exquisite rock. There is also a magnificent specimen in the Natural History department of the Dublin Museum.

    There is a rich treat for the cyclist on the way from Recess Station to Kylemore. This is a run of 13 miles along the splendid road that goes northwards round the curving shores of Loughs Derryclare and Inagii, The latter is one of the finest bits of scenery to be found in Ireland, especially when one is lucky enough to get sunshine on the eascern shoulders of the "Bens" after rain. For the character of this view of those mountains, see remarks on page 219. The only vegetation is on the islands. For Kylemore see page 226.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Recess, this was the site of the principal quarry of Connemara Marble. Dr. Hull described the stone as composed of "crystalline limestone and serpentine." Those who have seen the pillars and facings of the Entrance Hall at the New Geological Museum of Trinity College Dublin will remember the beautiful green colouring of this exquisite rock. A magnificent specimen also stands in the Natural History department of the Dublin Museum. From the station, a road runs 13 miles north to Kylemore, curving along the shores of Lough Derryclare and Lough Inagh. The latter is among the finest scenery in Ireland, especially when sunshine falls on the eastern shoulders of the Bens after rain. The only vegetation is on the islands.

45. Dun Onaght and Clochan na Carraige beehive cell

    Dun Onaght · enclosure · Galway

    About one mile north-west of Dun Aengus is the fine fort called Dun Onaght. Near it stands Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect of the beehive cells, formed by projecting stones until the walls meet in one flag at the apex.

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    About one mile north-west of this is another fine fort called Dun Onaght ; and near it is Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect of the "beehive" cells, " formed in a manner universally adopted by early races in all periods of the history of man and in various portions of the globe, where stone was available, before the knowledge of the principle of the arch had reached them. The

    212 GALWAY

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Dun Onaght is a fine fort, about a mile north-west of Dun Aengus. Near it stands Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect of the beehive cells. It was formed by projecting stones until the walls meet in one flag at the apex. This was a manner universally adopted by early races where stone was available, before the principle of the arch was known.

46. Monastery of Inishbofin on Lough Ree

    near Inishbofin · parish · Galway

    A monastery on Inishbofin (White Cow Island) in Lough Ree is described as the most interesting of any on the lake. Its foundation is attributed to St. Rioch, nephew of St. Patrick, described as a Briton or Welshman by birth.

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    the main building. "The monastery of Inishofin (or White Cow Island) is, in some respects, the most interesting of any upon Lough Eeo, because its foundation is attributed to St. Eioch, the nephew of St. Patrick, ... a Briton or Welshman by birth." On Hare Inkind no hares are now living to explain the name ; they have relinquished it in favoitt of the tenant. Lord Castlemaine, who has laid out the ground well. On the western shore is the interesting ruin oi Randou-n Castle, "a famous spot in Irish history for the last 2000 years." In ancient times it was called John's (Eoin) House after a local Celtic saint ; when the Normans, who hated the Celts, came and "established a castle of the Knights Ilospitallers, they changed the dedication to that of St. John the Baptist." The castle still stands, with a round tower, a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity,' and a fortified wall, "unique in Ireland."

    Atlilone is the most convenient station for visiting Lissoy, the supposed scene of Goldsmith's " Deserted Village " ; and the celebrated ecclesiastical ruins of Clonmacnois on the Shannon.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Inishbofin holds the monastery the old guide calls "the most interesting of any upon Lough Ree." Inishbofin means White Cow Island. The foundation is attributed to St. Rioch, the nephew of St. Patrick, described as "a Briton or Welshman by birth." The same passage turns to other places near the lake. Hare Island carries its name, though no hares live there now. They have given way to the tenant, Lord Castlemaine, who has laid out the ground well. On the western shore stands Randoon Castle, "a famous spot in Irish history for the last 2000 years." In ancient times it was called John's House, after a local Celtic saint. When the Normans came, they hated the Celts. They established a castle of the Knights Hospitallers and changed the dedication to St. John the Baptist. The castle still stands, with a round tower, a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and a fortified wall, "unique in Ireland."

47. Quin Abbey, Franciscan ruin with fortress

    Quin · town · Clare · 1402

    Quin Abbey is an extensive and well-preserved Franciscan friary ruin, probably dating from 1402, recently restored at great cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress of Norman period or earlier, with ancient monuments in the adjoining cemetery.

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    About 2 miles up-stream from Ardsollus Station (19| miles) is QuiN Abbey, an extensive and well-preserved ruin, founded for Franciscan friars, and dating probably irom 1402. An examination of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored at gi'eat cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The best things at Clare Castle (23 miles) are the fine meadows, with the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in the river Fergus. Close to the railway line (right) are the fine ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular.

    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    In the town of Quin, Clare, stands an extensive and well-preserved Franciscan ruin, probably dating from 1402. An examination of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored at great cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The best things at Clare Castle are the fine meadows, with the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in the river Fergus. Close to the railway line are the fine ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular. Ennis is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The people are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud-swept statue is the chief historical building, the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the Martyrs' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio who suffered death in Manchester, 1867, and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders.

48. St. Caimin's 7th-century church on Iniscaltra

    near Inishcaltra or Holy Island · townland · Clare · 600–700

    St. Caimin founded a church on Iniscaltra (Holy Island) in the 7th century, and the western end of the church still standing is likely part of that original building.

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    There is certain soft beauty about Scariff Bay (pier). On its north side is Iniscaltra ("the island burying-ground "), or Holy Island on which are some ancient buildings of unusual interest. St. Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century, and in all probability the western end of the church now standing is part of that building. The chancel, however, is much later, and is dated by Miss Stokes 1007 A.D. It was, she says, "built by King Brian Borumhe (Boru), and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a Rouiid Totver of, perhaps, the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and shows the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian "speaks of a St. Anmchadh, who, coming fi-om Iniscaltra, travelled to Germany, and became a recluse at Fulda " {Stokes).

    On the same side as Scariff Bay is Mountshannon, where there is a comfortable old-fashioned hotel which can put up 20 to 30 anglers in the season. "Dapping" with the natural fly is a favourite method of the sport in early summer. The charge per day for man and boat is 7s. 6d. Otherwise fishing free. The Shannon steamers do not stop here but at Williamstotvn, a short distance above. The scenery around Mountshannon is pretty enough to satisfy those who have no taste for fishing. On the opposite side of the lough is Youghal Bay, across which we have a good view of the Devil's Bit Mountain,

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Inishcaltra or Holy Island, St. Caimin founded a church in the 7th century. The place sits on the north side of Scariff Bay, and its name means "the island burying-ground." It holds ancient buildings of unusual interest. The western end of the church still standing is in all probability part of that original building Caimin raised. The chancel, however, is much later. Miss Stokes dates it to 1007, and says it was "built by King Brian Borumhe (Boru), and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." That makes it an important basis for dating many ancient buildings across the country. From what remains, it is evident the west door was richly carved. Hard by stands a Round Tower, perhaps from the 10th century, built all of one kind of stone and showing the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian speaks of a St. Anmchadh, who, coming from Iniscaltra, travelled to Germany and became a recluse at Fulda. So from this island in the Shannon, a saint set out for Germany, and a king raised a chancel that became an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland.

49. Athlone Castle's 13th-century base built by Bishop of Norwich

    Athlone · town · Westmeath · 1213

    The only remaining 13th-century part of Athlone Castle is the base of the fort built by the Bishop of Norwich in 1213. The imposing machicolations and outer walls are modern, and the castle is now used for military stores.

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    and a little lower down by the road bridge. On tlie Leinster or east side are the best streets, shoi)s and the hotel, as well as the smaller station (G.S. and W). On the Connaught or west side is the principal railway station, the barracks (the town is always garrisoned), and what remains of the Castle now used for Military Stores. The only old part (13th century) remaining of the Castle is the base of the fort built by the Bishop of Norwich, The imposing machicolations and outer walls are modern.

    The earliest fort seems to have occupied the Celtic " dun " near the present bridge, in the far-off time when the crossing was made over the fords ; and whe" troops and travellers knew well the hostelry and the history alike of that ancient taverner, one " Luan," to whom our best scholars trace the latter pai-t of the name of the town. It seems strange that the place should be connected with Korwich, but it is reliable history that the Bishop of the most eastern city of England built here in 1213 the central castle of Ireland, and we shall find more of this builder-bishop's work at Clonmacnois. The castle has had an eventful record of assaults and sieges, but of none more famous than the siege of 1691, when GinckoU captured Athlone, and so forced the battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. At first the garrison under Grace, and, Later St. Euth, who held the castle for James II., stood firm, but the heavy fire of GinckeU's men and their last assault utterly broke the Irish defence.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Athlone now. The town straddles the river, with its better streets on the Leinster side and the barracks and castle remains on the Connaught side. The only old part of the castle left is the 13th-century base of the fort, built by the Bishop of Norwich in 1213 — what the source calls the central castle of Ireland. The imposing machicolations and outer walls you may notice are modern, and the building now serves as military stores. There was an earlier fort too, a Celtic dun near the present bridge, from the days when travellers crossed by ford. Scholars trace the latter part of the town's name to a taverner called Luan, whose hostelry troops and travellers knew well. The castle went on to have a long record of assaults and sieges. The most famous was 1691, when Ginckell captured Athlone and so forced the battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. The garrison under Grace and later St. Ruth held the castle for James II, but the heavy fire and the final assault broke the Irish defence.

50. Black Abbey of the Augustinians at Adare founded 1315

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1315–1852

    The Black Abbey of the Augustinians at Adare was founded in 1315; part of it is now used as the Protestant Church. It was restored in 1852, but the interior remains choked by heavy tower supports and Dunraven pews. The later cloisters contain a lavatory sink and the refectory is now a school.

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    Close to the Bridge, and nearer Limerick, is the Black Abbey of the Augustinians, founded in 1315 ; part of which is used as the Protestant Church. The slender proportions of the tower, as of that of the Franciscan Abbey, will strike the visitor, as well as the "Muckross" tracery of the east window of the Church. This was restored in 1852, but the interior is still choked up, not only by the heavy tower supports, but by the Duuraven pews. The later cloisters have a lavatory sink ; the Refectory is now the school.

    13

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Adare, somewhere around here, is the Black Abbey of the Augustinians, founded in 1315. Part of it is now used as the Protestant Church. The tower is slender, like that of the Franciscan Abbey, and the east window has what the guide calls "Muckross" tracery. The church was restored in 1852, but the interior is still choked up, not only by heavy tower supports, but by the Dunraven pews. The later cloisters have a lavatory sink, and the refectory is now the school.

51. Bridges linking Kilkieran Bay islands as relief work

    Kilkieran Bay · bay · Galway

    Five of the largest islands in the Kilkieran Bay archipelago were joined by bridges built as relief work when G. W. Balfour was Irish Secretary. The project provided employment in this remote coastal district.

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    Turning west from Costello we should come to an archipelago of islands in Kilkieran Bay. Five of the largest are joined by bridges, relief work done when Rt. Hon. G. W. Balfour was Irish Secretary. At Lettcrmullcn is the Hotel of the Isles where brown trout and sea trout fishing and rough shooting are offered to visitors. Some of these small out-of-the-way hotels are both comfortable and reasonable, and deserve to be better known.

    At 33 miles from Galway is Recess, where wo stop first at the small station belonging to the splendid hotel of the M.G.W.R. Company ; and, one mile beyond, reach the principal station.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    Kilkieran Bay holds an archipelago of islands off the Galway coast. Five of the largest are joined by bridges, built as relief work when the Right Honourable G. W. Balfour was Irish Secretary. The work gave employment in this remote coastal district. On one island, Lettermullen, stands the Hotel of the Isles, where brown trout and sea trout fishing and rough shooting are offered to visitors. These small out-of-the-way hotels are both comfortable and reasonable, and deserve to be better known.

52. Ennis Martyrs' Pillar, memorial to 1867 executions

    Ennis · town · Clare · 1867

    Beyond the Infirmary in Ennis stands the Martyrs' Pillar, erected in memory of three men who suffered death in Manchester in 1867. It is chiefly notable for its inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-cutter.

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    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    204 LIMERICK TO SLIGO

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Ennis is one of the cheerful-looking towns of Ireland, clean and well-built, with good houses and fair shops, and people of an unusually brisk and business-like character. Beyond the Infirmary stands the Martyrs' Pillar. It was erected in memory of the trio who suffered death in Manchester in 1867. Three men, executed in an English city, remembered here in stone in a Clare town. What makes the pillar chiefly noticeable is the inscribed details concerning its builders, even down to the name of the stone-cutter. Who raised it and who cut the lettering are recorded on the face of the monument itself. The town holds older history too. The Franciscan Abbey stands near O'Connell's statue, a 13th-century building whose chancel arch supports a spiky tower bristling with pinnacles. But the pillar keeps the names of its own makers, the men who shaped it and set it up to remember three who died.

53. Pre-Norman antiquities on the Aran Islands

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The Aran Islands are densely covered with ancient remains, including a typical collection of pre-Norman structures. These range from cromlechs and "beehive" cells to "churches with chancels."

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    The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great icesheet that seems to have descended hither from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay " to such an extent that it extended aU over the Ai-an Islands, where Mr. Kinahan has observed striae pointing about north 25 east " (Hull). The antiquarian will find here "a typical collection of nearly all of the more remarkable structures of pre-Nonnan times," from cromlechs and " beehive " cells to "churches with chancels."

    The uncommon characteristics of the natives mark them out as of a special type, hardly less peculiar to the soil than the colony which Scottish tourists find in St. Kilda. Their home-spun dress, cow-hide sandals called " pampooties," and relics of ancient customs win attract notice. "We might be disposed," says Dr. Beddoe, " trusting to Irish traditions respecting the islands, to accept these people as representatives of the Firbolgs, had not Cromwell, that upsettor of all tilings Hibernian, left in Aranmore a small English garrison who subsequently apostatised to Catholicism, intermarried with the natives, and so vitiated the Firbolgian pedigree." Dr. Petrie describes them as of a generally high moral character.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    The Aran Islands hold a typical collection of nearly all the more remarkable structures of pre-Norman times. The antiquarian will find here everything from cromlechs and beehive cells to churches with chancels. These ancient remains are spread thick across Inishmore. A geologist would also note the last westward records of a great ice sheet that descended from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay, extending all over the Aran Islands, where Mr. Kinahan observed striae pointing about north 25 east. The natives themselves are of a special type, hardly less peculiar to the soil than the colony Scottish tourists find in St. Kilda. Their homespun dress and cow-hide sandals called pampooties and relics of ancient customs will attract notice. Dr. Beddoe said they might be disposed, trusting to Irish traditions respecting the islands, to accept these people as representatives of the Firbolgs, had not Cromwell left in Aranmore a small English garrison who subsequently apostatised to Catholicism, intermarried with the natives, and so vitiated the Firbolgian pedigree. Dr. Petrie describes them as of a generally high moral character.

54. Ashford House, seat of Lord Ardilaun

    Ashford · townland · Galway

    Ashford House, the seat of Lord Ardilaun, is well seen from the lake as the steamer enters a little wooded bay near Cong. Sir Benjamin Guinness, Lord Ardilaun's father, carefully restored the abbey ruins and rebuilt parts of the cloister arcade.

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    Ashford House (Lord Ardilaun) is well seen as the steamer sweeps round into the little wooded bay, but not a vestige of the village appears. It is in fact about 2 miles away to the left. Cong {Hotels : (C) Clare Arms ; Ryan's ; both small but clean) has many attractions, bringing sight-seers from all over the world. The sights include the abbey, demesne grounds and caves. The abbey is partly situated in the grounds of Lord Ardilaun {admission at the cottage left of the carved gateway). The ruins received careful attention at the hands of Sir Benjamin Guinness, tlie father of Lord Ardilaun, who placed them under proper control and.rebuilt some of the cloister arcade.

    238 GALWAY TO CLIFDEN

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ashford stands Ashford House, the seat of Lord Ardilaun. It is well seen from the lake, as the steamer sweeps round into a little wooded bay, though not a vestige of the village appears from the water. The abbey is partly situated in the grounds of Lord Ardilaun. Its ruins received careful attention from Sir Benjamin Guinness, Lord Ardilaun's father, who placed them under proper control and rebuilt some of the cloister arcade. The demesne grounds and caves, along with the abbey, are among the attractions that bring sight-seers from all over the world to Cong.

55. Ballysodare: decayed village, St. Feichin's Abbey and rapids

    Ballysadare · townland · Sligo

    Ballysodare is a village on the Owenmore with rapids and a small waterfall. The Abbey of St. Feichin overlooks the rapids on the west side. The place is described as much decayed, little more than a wreck of its former condition.

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    Ballysodare, finely placed at the foot of the Lurgan Hills, is a village on the Owenmore, which falls into the bay over a series of rocky ledges, forming a succession of rapids, ending with a fine though small waterfall. The Abbey of St. Feichin overlooks the rapids on the west side of the river, where the only good view of them is to be obtained. The remarkable salmon ladders farther up should be seen. The place is much decayed, and little more than a wreck of its former condition.

    Here the road tiuns(northward, in full view of Knockuarea, on the left, with a southern face that is a very cataract of ochrecoloured screes.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Ballysodare, a village at the foot of the Lurgan Hills, standing on the Owenmore. The river falls into the bay over a series of rocky ledges, forming a succession of rapids that end with a fine though small waterfall. The Abbey of St. Feichin overlooks the rapids on the west side of the river, where the only good view of them is to be obtained. Farther up, there are remarkable salmon ladders that should be seen. The place is much decayed, little more than a wreck of its former condition.

56. Brian Boru's chancel on Iniscaltra

    near Inishcaltra or Holy Island · townland · Clare · 1007

    The chancel of the church on Iniscaltra was built by King Brian Boru in 1007 A.D. It marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland, making it an important basis for dating other ancient buildings.

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    There is certain soft beauty about Scariff Bay (pier). On its north side is Iniscaltra ("the island burying-ground "), or Holy Island on which are some ancient buildings of unusual interest. St. Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century, and in all probability the western end of the church now standing is part of that building. The chancel, however, is much later, and is dated by Miss Stokes 1007 A.D. It was, she says, "built by King Brian Borumhe (Boru), and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a Rouiid Totver of, perhaps, the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and shows the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian "speaks of a St. Anmchadh, who, coming fi-om Iniscaltra, travelled to Germany, and became a recluse at Fulda " {Stokes).

    On the same side as Scariff Bay is Mountshannon, where there is a comfortable old-fashioned hotel which can put up 20 to 30 anglers in the season. "Dapping" with the natural fly is a favourite method of the sport in early summer. The charge per day for man and boat is 7s. 6d. Otherwise fishing free. The Shannon steamers do not stop here but at Williamstotvn, a short distance above. The scenery around Mountshannon is pretty enough to satisfy those who have no taste for fishing. On the opposite side of the lough is Youghal Bay, across which we have a good view of the Devil's Bit Mountain,

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Inishcaltra, or Holy Island, there is a church whose chancel was built by King Brian Boru in 1007. There is a certain soft beauty about Scariff Bay and its pier. On the north side of the bay is the island, whose name means the island burying-ground, and on which are some ancient buildings of unusual interest. Saint Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century, and in all probability the western end of the church now standing is part of that original building. The chancel, however, is much later. Miss Stokes dated it to 1007, and she said it was, in her words, "built by King Brian Borumhe, and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a round tower of perhaps the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and shows the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian, as Stokes notes, speaks of a Saint Anmchadh, who, coming from this island, travelled to Germany and became a recluse at Fulda.

57. Delphi Lodge built by Marquis of Sligo

    Delphi · site · Mayo

    Delphi Lodge is situated on the small Finlough and stands on a rocky ledge amidst Scotch firs. It was built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of an old house.

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    Delphi Lodge, built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of the old house, "is beautifully situated on the small Finlough. It stands on a rocky ledge in the midst of a fine group of Scotch firs. The little waterfall on the nortli side of the house is often visited by tourists, who will find no difficulty in obtaining the necessary permission. Finlough, with Dhulough (the black lake), about | mile distant, and' the river which Hows into tlie Killery at Bundorragh, form perhaps the most perfect ideal of a salmon and trout fishery in the kingdom. The lessee of the Lodge, with all sporting rights,

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of an old house, Delphi Lodge is beautifully situated on the small Finlough. It stands on a rocky ledge in the midst of a fine group of Scotch firs. A little waterfall on the north side of the house is often visited by tourists, who will find no difficulty in obtaining the necessary permission. Finlough, with Dhulough, the black lake, about a mile distant, and the river which flows into the Killery at Bundorragh, form perhaps the most perfect ideal of a salmon and trout fishery in the kingdom. The lessee of the Lodge held all sporting rights.

58. Franciscan Church monuments near New Bridge

    Galway · city · Galway · 1700–1799

    The Franciscan Church near New Bridge was built in the 18th century on the site of the old monastic church. It contains curious monuments including those of Sir P. French and another figured with many saints, with remnants of elaborate carving.

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    In the Franciscan Church, near New Bridge, which was built in the 18 th century on the site of the old monastic church, are curious monuments. Notice especially that of Sir P. French, and another figured with many saints. There are some remnants of elaborate carving. Near this there once stood a Dominican Friary. It is from the New Bridge that you obtain quite the pleasantest view in the town.

    Just beyond Lyuch's Castle in Shop Street is the Church of St. Nicholas, dating from 1320. The tower, partly rough-cast, has uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks. The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. The interior was once the stables for the chargers of the Parliament troops during the Civil "War. The chief features of interest are the old slabs in the south transept, and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-Stephen. The font is old and good ; and in the north aisle is what is generally called "the Confessional," but ' ' nothing is definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt that it was ever intended for such use." There are ten bells in the tower, one of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used. Of the remaining nine bells the two largest are cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ringing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway, the Franciscan Church stands near New Bridge, built in the 1700s on the site of the old monastic church. Inside are curious monuments. One belongs to Sir P. French. Another is figured with many saints. There are remnants of elaborate carving. A Dominican Friary once stood near this spot. It is from New Bridge that the pleasantest view in the town can be had.

59. Glencar Waterfall

    Glencar · electoral division · Sligo

    Glencar Waterfall, a deservedly popular picnickers' haunt, is composed of three cascades each separated by a few minutes' climb among rocks and foliage. The steep ascent offers striking westward views of Benbulbin's southern foot.

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    Glencar Waterfall, a good and deservedly popular picnickers' haunt. As you ascend the steep "brae" to this, look back at the striking views, westward, of the rocky buttresses of King's mountain, Benbulbin's southern foot; The waterfall is, to be exact, composed of three cascades, each separated by a few

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    Glencar is a place the road passes through or near. The waterfall here is a popular spot for picnickers. It is made up of three cascades, each separated by a short climb among rocks. As you ascend the steep brae, look back westward for a striking view of the rocky buttresses of King's Mountain, Benbulbin's southern foot.

60. Glen Columhkill in the Burren highland

    Glencolumbkille · town · Donegal

    Glen Columhkill is described as the most remarkable of the valleys on the east of the Burren high land, notable for the bareness of surrounding limestone rocks that resemble vast artificial amphitheatres with regular steps and terraces of stone.

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    Glen Columhkill is the most remarkable of the valleys on the east of the Burren high land. What makes those valleys so remarkable is the bareness of the limestone rocks which surround •them. They look like vast artificial amphitheatres rising in regular steps and terraces of stone, receding here and advancing there, till the long parallel lines of stratification fade away in the blue haze of the distance. The isolated hills are like great fortifications surrounded by regular bastions and walls rising one above another, till each terminates in a small citadel crowning the summit of the hill. The light gray of the nearer hills fades into jiurple in the distance, and, should a stray sunbeam strike through the clouds on some remoter j'romoutory, the part lit gleams out like a marble building, with all the effect of some magnificent architecture.

    The numerous rock fissures are lined with the most splendid ferns and other plants — the delicate maidenhair fern being found here as well as on the Aran Islands, together with several species of plants very rarely to be met with in other parts of the British Islands.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Glencolumbkille, you are near a valley the guidebooks called the most remarkable on the east of the Burren highland. What sets it apart is the bareness of the limestone rocks surrounding it. They look like vast artificial amphitheatres, rising in regular steps and terraces of stone, receding and advancing till the long parallel lines of stratification fade into blue haze in the distance. The isolated hills resemble great fortifications with bastions and walls rising one above another, each crowned by a small citadel at its summit. Nearer hills are light gray, fading to purple far off, and when a stray sunbeam breaks through the clouds onto a remote promontory, the lit part gleams like a marble building. The rock fissures are lined with splendid ferns, including the delicate maidenhair fern found here as on the Aran Islands, along with several plant species rarely seen elsewhere in these islands.