Black's guide to Galway, Connemara, and the west of Ireland

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. St. Nicholas Church, Shop Street, dating from 1320

   Shop Street · street · Galway · 1320

   The Church of St. Nicholas in Shop Street dates from 1320. Its interior was once used as stables for Parliament troops' chargers during the Civil War. Notable features include old slabs, the tomb of Lynch Fitz-Stephen, an old font, and bells dating from 1590 and 1631.

   Read the passage

   Just beyond Lyuch's Castle in Shop Street is the Church of St. Nicholas, dating from 1320. The tower, partly rough-cast, has uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks. The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. The interior was once the stables for the chargers of the Parliament troops during the Civil "War. The chief features of interest are the old slabs in the south transept, and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-Stephen. The font is old and good ; and in the north aisle is what is generally called "the Confessional," but ' ' nothing is definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt that it was ever intended for such use." There are ten bells in the tower, one of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used. Of the remaining nine bells the two largest are cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ringing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented.

   University College is close to the town on the Oughterard Road. It is a fine grey limestone building standing in wellkept grounds. Museums are attached to the principal medical departments, and there is a large medical library. The belfry is a neat miniature of " Tom " Tower in Christ Church, Oxford, and unique in Ireland. The Diocesan College is built of the same stone, and can be seen on the way to Salthill.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   Along here on Shop Street, just beyond Lynch's Castle, stands the Church of St. Nicholas, dating from 1320. The tower is partly rough-cast, with uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks. The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. During the Civil War, the interior was used as stables for the Parliament troops' chargers. The chief features of interest are the old slabs in the south transept, and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-Stephen. The font is old and good. In the north aisle is what is generally called the Confessional, but nothing is definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt it was ever intended for such use. There are ten bells in the tower. One of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used. Of the remaining nine bells, the two largest are cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ringing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented.

2. Tuam, ancient cross with carvings described by Miss Stokes

   Tuam · town · Galway

   In the centre of Tuam is a fine ancient cross with carvings described by Miss Stokes as showing the Crucifixion on one side, a bishop on the other, and a funeral procession on the reverse, with inscriptions both ancient and modern and much interlaced work.

   Read the passage

   From Athenry it is 16 miles northwards to Tuam {Hotel: Guy's Imperial), a pleasant, and in some ways smart little town. On the other hand it looks the humblest of cities ; yet it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, and traces its importance back to the 6th-centui'y saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient Cross with carvings, described thus by Miss Stokes: — "Crucifixion on one side ; figure of a bishop on the other ; a funeral procession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work.

   Tlie chief buildings in the town are the two Cathedrals, that ol St. Mary (Church of Ireland) and that of St. Jarlath (Roman Catholic). The former carries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam. Of these ancient churches

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

3. Carrowmore megalithic cemetery

   Carrowmore · townland · Sligo

   Three miles along the southern road from Sligo lies the great group of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments at Carrowmore, one of the most important prehistoric sites in Ireland.

   Read the passage

   The excursion to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains. The whole round is about 13 miles. By taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group of ancient crondechs and stone monuments at Cakrowmore. A few miles nortli-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea, " the Hill of Executions " (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 45). The fine view extends from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west).

   At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore- Booth's place, north of DrumclifT Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely sho\vn to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the way, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 47

4. Decay and ruin in Galway's streets

   Galway · city · Galway

   Galway presents a combination of dilapidation and decay alongside signs of improvement. Immense modern warehouses have stood unoccupied for years, and nearly every street has untenantied and roofless houses suggesting the impression of a city sacked and ruined.

   Read the passage

   Galway presents a curious combination of dilapidation and decay, with signs of improvement and moderate prosperity. Some immense warehouses, comparatively modern, have been for several years unoccupied, and are slowly going to ruin, and in nearly every street imtenauted and roofless houses suggest the "impression of a city sacked and ruined."

   On many houses in the older and meaner parts of the town may be seen sculptured fa9ades and coats-of-arms, in curious contrast with the surrounding squalor. The most entire of these antique dwellings is that known as "Lynch's Castle," in the principal street ; it is really a very quaint and interesting building with fantastic carving, well-preserved, and rows of gargoyles.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Galway, the streets show a strange mix of decay and modest prosperity. Immense modern warehouses have stood empty for years, slowly going to ruin, and nearly every street has untenantied and roofless houses that give the impression of a city sacked and ruined. Yet on many older, meaner houses you can see sculptured facades and coats-of-arms, a curious contrast with the squalor around them. The most entire of these antique dwellings is Lynch's Castle, in the principal street, a quaint building with fantastic carving, well preserved, and rows of gargoyles.

5. White Abbey of the Trinitarians at Adare, saved from ruin

   Adare · townland · Limerick · 1299

   The White Abbey of the Trinitarians at Adare was founded before 1299. At the beginning of the nineteenth century it had been used as a ball-alley and would have become a potato store but for the intervention of the second Earl of Dunraven. It now serves as a church with a massive central tower.

   Read the passage

   On the left (or west) as you come out of the Village Gate is the White Abbey of the Trinitarians, which was founded before 1299. The Church, which is now the B.C. Church, was at the beginning of the century a baU-alley, and but for the good (second) Earl would have become a potato store. Its chief feature is the massive central tower. The spacious and good interior is beautified by the reredos screen.

   The adjoining i^oMTitetra was the gift of the (second) Countess, 1851.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

6. Achill Island chronic poverty and rough dwellings

   near Achill · parish · Mayo

   The inhabitants of Achill Island lived in chronic poverty, evident from their huts of rough cobbles and turf. Relief work in road-making was provided in winter, and the lace industry had grown as a staple home occupation.

   Read the passage

   energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the interior of Ireland, As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic state of poverty, a fact sufficiently evident from a glance at the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in other parts of the country, the standard of living has improved. Relief work in the shape of road-making is given in the winter. The lace industry has grown, the Carrickmacross lace-making being the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour is in demand, especially is this the case in regard to the potato crops in Dumfries, " tatie coppers," as they are called, going over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, therefore a large proportion of the time of the natives is taken up in "herding" the stock. Peat-preserving also takes up many hours of labour, as an old dame said, " It's the wan blessing we have, but what with the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it ! " In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound.

   The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of the fact of its almost treeless condition, and the heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rockfringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 38

   As the companion tells it

   As you come through the parish of Achill in Mayo, you are passing a place where many of the inhabitants lived in a chronic state of poverty. That fact was plain enough from the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwelt. The standard of living had improved, but only in the way it had improved across other parts of the country. Relief work in road-making was given in the winter, and the lace industry had grown. Carrickmacross lace-making was the staple work of many a home. There was a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour was in demand, especially for the potato crops in Dumfries. Workers called tatie coppers went over in their hundreds. In Achill there were no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, so a large proportion of the time of the natives was taken up in herding the stock. Peat-preserving also took up many hours of labour. An old dame said, "It's the wan blessing we have, but what with the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it!" In the height of the peat-cutting in May, you could see a fleet of as many as 80 turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound. The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of its almost treeless condition. The heights of the near islands and the mainland, seen as a background to its own rock-fringed bays or stupendous cliffs, would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

7. De Quincey's 1800 ascent of Croagh Patrick and pilgrimage observation

   near Croagh Patrick · mountain or mountain range · Mayo · 1800

   Thomas De Quincey climbed Croagh Patrick in 1800 as a boy of fifteen and wrote home calling it 'the highest mountain in Ireland.' At the summit he found a circular wall where, on St. Patrick's Day, Catholics ran on their bare knees until the skin was off.

   Read the passage

   De Quincey, who as a boy of 15 climbed the mountain, in 1800, wrote home that Croagh Patrick was " the highest mountain in Ireland." At the top he found " a circular wall very rough and craggy, on which, at St. Patrick's Day, all the Papists, for many miles round, run on their kneea (quite bare) till the skin is off."

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 35

8. Glencar and Mrs. Siberry's tea-house

   Glencar · electoral division · Sligo

   Glencar, 'the glen of the pillar-stone,' lies eight miles from Sligo. On its north side, Mrs. Siberry's tea-house, unique in Ireland, was famous for home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes baked in a pot-oven, with limited accommodation for visitors seeking the simple life.

   Read the passage

   Glencar ("the glen of the pillar-stone"), is 8 miles from Sligo, smaller, and not so beautiful as Lough Gill, but it makes a delightful round nevertheless. On the north side is Mrs. Siberry's tea-house, of a kind unique in Ireland. Mrs. Siberry, who is known far and wide, is an adept at home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes, baked in a "pot-oven." Her milk and cream are in keeping, and let no one think they have " done " the neighbourhood of Sligo until they have bad tea here. While those who want to live the " siinj)le life," in its most attractive form, will do well to secure accommodation, which is very limited, long beforehand.

   From the cottage a short rise leads to

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

9. High Island monastery of St. Feichiu

   High Island · townland · Galway · 630–640

   High Island (Ardilaun) was the monastic home of St. Feichiu, who raised churches and cells there around 630-640. The principal ruin is a chapel at the south end; since Petrie's exploration the monastery's cells have been shamefully destroyed, with only two now standing.

   Read the passage

   High Island (or Ardiladn). This uninhabited island, the lomantic homo of St. Feichiu and his monks, was explored by Petrie and has been well described in the E.S.A.I. Journal, 1896, by Mr. ilacalister, from whom wo borrow. Not far from Castlepollard, amid the bog-lands of Westmeath, there are at Fore the interesting remains of the once important religious settlement of Saint Feichiu. This vigorous monk was the first to preach the Gospel to the wild westerns of Galway, and at Omey and on High Island he raised churches and cells. " We may perhaps regard ourselves as tolerably correct if we assign 630-640 as about the date of the foundation of the latter." Gonngall, "the blue-eyed foreigner," probably lived here and died on Ardillaun in 1017.

   The island is only accessible in calm weather, and then the landing (at the north-east) is difBcult. The Chapel, the principal ruin, is at the south end near the larger loughlet. As it is 3 feet longer than Molaise's Chapel on Inismurray, it is not quite the smallest chapel in the British Isles. The lintel over the west door was once a " monumental cross," and the most interesting cross here is on the south side. Since Petrie's day the place has been shamefully destroyed ; the cells or dochans of the monastery have suflered much, and only two now stand. Though the existence of the monks' mill may be disputed, the pilgrims' offerings sufficiently indicate the ancient fame of the Holy Well, in the centre of the island.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 31

10. Murder of Brian Boroimhe's grandson at Castleconnell Castle

    Castleconnell · town · Limerick

    Castleconnell takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, crowning a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. Tradition holds that the grandson of Brian Boroimhe was lured into the castle by the Prince of Thomond, blinded, and then cruelly murdered there.

    Read the passage

    The village, much cleaner and neater than most Irish villages, takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high and solitary rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe is said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Tlioniond, who, having put out his eyes, afterwards cruelly murdered ,him. The fortress was subsequently occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days, and blown up with gunpowder.

    Though Castleconnell is to be ranked liigh upon the fisherman's list, there is hardly any free fishing, and the salmon

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Castleconnell takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. Tradition says the grandson of Brian Boroimhe was inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Thomond, who put out his eyes and afterwards cruelly murdered him. Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, later occupied the fortress. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of 2 days and blown up with gunpowder.

11. St. Enda founds western seat of Christianity on Aranmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 470

    St. Enda, son of Conall Deary and originally an abbot in Italy, arrived on Aranmore around 470. He accepted the North Island as a gift from Aengus, King of Cashel, and founded one of the most important western seats of Christianity.

    Read the passage

    When the mist of the past begins to lift, the earliest inhabitants that can be descried are the Firbolgs, and when St. Enda appears, Corbanus is the island king over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe, near Ballyvaughan. The North Island, at least, had been strongly fortified centuries before this, if we may trust our best archi-eologists. Enda, or Eany, the son of Conall Deary, was brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel. Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's death (470), accepting from Aengus his gift of the North Island, and founded one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity.

    The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great icesheet that seems to have descended hither from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay " to such an extent that it extended aU over the Ai-an Islands, where Mr. Kinahan has observed striae pointing about north 25 east " (Hull). The antiquarian will find here "a typical collection of nearly all of the more remarkable structures of pre-Nonnan times," from cromlechs and " beehive " cells to "churches with chancels."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

12. Tuam Cathedral old church converted to Synod Hall and library

    Tuam · town · Galway · 1863–1878

    An older church joined to the east end of Tuam Cathedral was used as a cathedral until the present one opened in 1878 after fifteen years of construction costing over £20,000. The old church now serves as a Synod Hall and houses a Diocesan Library presented by the Rev. Jos. Henry, D.D.

    Read the passage

    nothing remains but the chancel of St. Mary's and a small part of the old parish church, which now stands in the middle of the ancient burial ground close to the present Cathedral. The chancel arch is of Hiberno-Romanesque architecture, and consists of six circumscribed semicircles, elaborately ornamented in low relief. Dr. Petrie, In writing of the church, says, "Of the ancient church of Tuam the chancel only remains ; but fortunately it is sufficient to make us acquainted with its general style of architectiu-e, and to show that it was not only a larger, but more splendid structure than Cormac's church at Cashel, and not unworthy of the powerful monarch to whom it chiefly owed its erection. The arch mouldings consist of diamond, fret, and varieties of the chevron, all carved with exquisite perfection. The original East window of the chancel remains. It is a triplet carved with most elaborate interlaced work, like that of the ancient Irish crosses. This window is oue of the most perfect examples I know of interlaced ornament in stone." Joined to the East end of the Cathedral is a much older church, which was used as a Cathedral till the present one was opened in 1S78, after being fifteen years in erection, at an outlay of over £20,000. The old church is now used as a Synod Hall, a portion of it being set apart as a Diocesan Library. This valuable library was presented to the diocese by the Rev. Jos. Henry, D.D., formerly British chaplain in Lima, Peru. In the Synod Hall are some beautifully carved and inlaid choir stalls, which were found in Italy and were purchased by the late Mr. E. J. Cooper of Markree Castle, for £3000, and after his decease presented to the diocese.

    Outside the Roman Catholic Cathedral, at the far end of the town, are several statues, iueludiug one to Father MacHale, by Farrell. Within is a baldachino of marble.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 21

13. Ballynahinch fishery and Thackeray's praise

    Ballynahinch · townland · Galway

    The Ballynahinch fishery district at the foot of the Twelve Bens was one of the best fishing centres in Ireland, with principal waters including Lough Ballynahinch, Loughs Glendalough, Inagh, Derryclare, and Oorid. Thackeray declared the beauty here rivalled Killarney.

    Read the passage

    Lough Ballynahinch, together with the north-eastern loughs of Derryclare and Inagli, its feedei-s, curves crescent-Avise round the eastern feet of the Twelve Bens. Thackeray in his enthusiasm declared that the beauty here rivalled that of Killarney,

    " I won't attempt," ho wrote, "to pile up big words in place of those wild mountains, over which the clouds as they passed, or the sunshine as it went and came, cast every variety of tint, light and shadow ; nor can it be expected that long level sentences, however smooth and shining, can be made to pass as representations of those calm lakes by which we lo'lc our way. All one can do is to lay down the pen and ruminate, and cry 'Beautiful!' once more ; and to the reader say ' Come and see ! ' "

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 29

14. Church of St. Brecan, the Seven Churches

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway · 500–600

    The Church of St. Brecan, called without reason the 'Seven Churches,' was probably founded by the 6th-century bishop Brecan, who also founded Ardbrecan in Meath and several churches in County Clare. It contains an early window, a Latin inscription, St. Brecan's broken headstone, and a carved cross.

    Read the passage

    dome is formed by the projection of one stone beyond another till the walls meet in one flag at the apex " [M. Stokes). The Church of St. Brecan is only ^ mile to the north and is worth a visit. This, which without reason is called the "Seven Churches," was probably founded by Brecan, the 6th-century bishop who founded Ardbrecan (Meath) and several churches in County Clare. It contains a very early window in the north wall ; and once had a monastery on the north side. Observe the inscription, "vii ro-ma-ni," on a stone to the south-west, which proves the extensive reputation of the monastery ; the broken headstone of St. Brecan's grave ; and, higher up, tho broken but splendidly carved cross. The "Saint's Bed " is pointed out.

    INISHMAAN, or Middle Island, is divided by Gregory Sound, about li mile in width. Dun Conor, named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious oval shape, and, though terribly " restored," is a fine fort. Tlie story of Mailly, the murderer, should be learnt from a native. TeampuU Murry i (St. Mary's Church) is of 16th-century date. The saint Kenerg, wliose " bed " is here, was the brother of the lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Church, with an uncommon west door, may be dedicated.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

15. Cliffs of Moher with O'Brien's Tower

    near Cliffs of Moher · cliff or cliffs · Clare

    The Cliffs of Moher, about six miles from Lehinch, rise 600 feet almost vertically and are capped by O'Brien's Tower. The approach passes St. Bridget's Holy Well, and from the clifftop the Isles of Aran and the mountains of Connemara are visible across the sea.

    Read the passage

    as a line uphill to a column with a figure on the summit. Thence take left at next fork and pass St. Bridget's Holy Well. It is all uphill. Continue until a curious ruin is suen in a field on the left. Then pass through a gate to it ; cj'cles and motors may be left here, and a short walk of J mile over easy grass brings us to the head of the cliffs capped by O'Brien's Tower. Few cliffs worth seeing are as easily accessible. Slabs of slate are so ari'anged as to reassure the most nervous, and by looking over this "railing" we may see a glorious view. The cliffs themselves are 600 feet in height and almost vertical. Only by noting the diminutiveness of a boat below can we gauge the real altitude. Black as ink in places and studded by countless seabirds, their grandeur and solemnity is remarkable. The crags below add to the scene, and away to sea the Isles of Aran are spread out like a map between us and the distant mountains of Connemara,

    From Lehinch the railway goes southward to Milltown Malbay. About 2 miles south of this is Spanish Point, where several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked. After this the scenery calls for no remark. At Doonbeg the railway turns inland to Moyasta junction for Kilkee and Kikush (see p. 196).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Cliffs of Moher, the cliffs rise 600 feet and stand almost vertical, capped by O'Brien's Tower. The approach goes uphill, past St. Bridget's Holy Well. Further along, a curious ruin sits in a field on the left. Through a gate beyond it, cycles and motors may be left, and a short walk over easy grass brings you to the head of the cliffs. The cliffs are about six miles from Lehinch. Few cliffs worth seeing are as easily accessible. Slabs of slate are arranged as a railing, to reassure the most nervous. Looking over it, the view is glorious. The cliffs are black as ink in places and studded by countless sea birds. Their grandeur and solemnity is remarkable. Only by noting the diminutiveness of a boat below can the real altitude be gauged. The crags below add to the scene, and away to sea the Isles of Aran are spread out like a map, with the distant mountains of Connemara beyond.

16. Druid altar (Tobernalt) near Lough Gill

    near Lough Gill · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Near a school close to Lough Gill, a Druid altar called Toher NAlt, described as older than history, was said to be a site of human sacrifice. Ferns, ice-cold well water, and mysterious depths create a weird and uncanny scene.

    Read the passage

    Dromohair. This means a detour from the lake, as there is no road close to the south side for some miles. At Dromohair {Hotel: (I.A.C., C) Abbey), there are O'Eourke's Castle, with walls of prodigious thickness, and St. Munchin's Abbey to be seen. From here the road wends back to the lough through a gorge, and on reaching it careful watch should be kept for a path on the right, leading through the woods to the Dooney Rock, whence the most beautiful view of the lough is obtained. The richly wooded isles and headlands, the luxuriant masses of beech and oak, give a character all its own to this charming scene. Not far from this, near a school, there is to be found the most interesting sight of all, Toher ISTAlt, a Druid altar, older than history, on which undoubtedly at one time human sacrifices were offered. The ferns growing out of the rock recesses, the constant flow of ice-cold water in the well, and the mysterious depths all add to a weird and almost uncanny scene of beauty and fascination. Total distance for the round and back to Sligo, 23 miles. As to fishing, salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful in the lough, and permission may be obtained by anglers from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

    The fishing on the other Sligo beauty spot, Glencar, is subject to more restriction. Application as above, when terms can be ascertained.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass along Lough Gill, the guide calls the most interesting sight of all a Druid altar called Tobernalt, found near a school close to the lake. It is described as older than history, and the writer says that undoubtedly human sacrifices were once offered on it. Ferns grow out of the rock recesses, ice-cold water flows constantly in the well, and the mysterious depths add to what the book calls a weird and almost uncanny scene of beauty and fascination. The round trip from here back to Sligo is 23 miles. The lough itself holds salmon, trout, and pike, and anglers could get permission to fish from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

17. Early pagan inhabitants of Aranmore

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The earliest identifiable inhabitants of Aranmore were the Firbolgs, ruled by an island king named Corbanus when St. Enda arrived. Corbanus ruled over a colony of pagans believed to have come from Corcomroe near Ballyvaughan.

    Read the passage

    When the mist of the past begins to lift, the earliest inhabitants that can be descried are the Firbolgs, and when St. Enda appears, Corbanus is the island king over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe, near Ballyvaughan. The North Island, at least, had been strongly fortified centuries before this, if we may trust our best archi-eologists. Enda, or Eany, the son of Conall Deary, was brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel. Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's death (470), accepting from Aengus his gift of the North Island, and founded one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity.

    The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great icesheet that seems to have descended hither from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay " to such an extent that it extended aU over the Ai-an Islands, where Mr. Kinahan has observed striae pointing about north 25 east " (Hull). The antiquarian will find here "a typical collection of nearly all of the more remarkable structures of pre-Nonnan times," from cromlechs and " beehive " cells to "churches with chancels."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

18. Local industries of crochet-lace and tweeds at Leenane

    Leenaun · townland · Galway

    The local industries in the Leenane area include the production of crochet-lace and tweeds, which can be seen in both the process of manufacture and as finished articles. Women and girls in the Killery area also favor a rich red dye for their home-spun woollen.

    Read the passage

    Thus we pass along Killery which means "red valley" and the name is well-deserved, as the rocks on every side have a curious, reddish-purple tinge, giving the impression of blooming heather. Also here, more than elsewhere, a rich red dye for their home-spun woollen is in great favour with women and girls, and many a fine view is touched up in the foreground by a flaming bit of colour. The local industries are crochet-lace and tweeds, specimens of which, both in the process of manufacture and as the finished article, can be seen at Leenane.

    The direct road [good cycling) from Letterfrack to; Leenane, a distance of 12^ miles, after passing the Post Ofiice, and for a mile and a half, consists of an avenue of fuchsias of unusual height and flower. We have never seen this shrub growing in greater luxuriance in our islands ; not even in the Port Erin country in the Isle of Man. The air at Letterfrack is of that mild freshness characteristic of the neighbourhood. The little town lies between the Twelve Pins and the sea.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Leenane, the local industries to look out for are crochet-lace and tweeds. You can see both the process of manufacture and the finished articles at Leenane itself. This place sits on Killery, a name that means red valley, and the name is well-deserved. The rocks on every side have a curious reddish-purple tinge, giving the impression of blooming heather. In this area, more than elsewhere, a rich red dye for home-spun woollen is in great favour with women and girls, and many a fine view is touched up in the foreground by a flaming bit of colour. So as you come through, you may catch the lace work and the tweed being made, and you may see that warm red woollen worn by the women of the Killery area. The whole setting earns its name, with the purple-red rocks surrounding the place and the colour carrying through into the clothes people make and wear.

19. Loop Head: Cuchullin's Leap tradition

    Loop Head · promontory · Clare

    Loop Head, properly Leap Head or Cuchullin's Leap, takes its name from a tradition that the Ulster knight Cuchullin, pursued by a termagant woman called Mai, leapt onto a small rock about 25 feet from the mainland. He leapt back safely, but Mai fell into the waves and perished.

    Read the passage

    Loop Head (16 miles from Kilkee), properly Leap Head, or Cuchulliu's Leap. The tradition is that Cuchullin a knight of Ulster, on being pursued by a termagant woman called Mai, reached the extremity of Clare, and discovering that she was still close in pursuit, leapt on to a small rock about 25 feet fi'om the mainland. The termagant succeeded also in reaching the rock, whereupon Cuchullin immediately leapt back, but the woman, not succeeding in her second attempt to follow him, fell into the waves and perished.

    See West Clare Railway, pp. 204, 214.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Loop Head, the promontory takes its old name, Cuchullin's Leap. The tradition says Cuchullin, a knight of Ulster, was pursued by a termagant woman called Mai. When she kept chasing him to the extremity of Clare, he leapt onto a small rock about 25 feet from the mainland. Mai reached the rock too, so Cuchullin leapt straight back. She tried to follow but failed, fell into the waves, and perished.

20. Lough Ree as frontier of Hy-Many and Meath

    near Lough Ree · lake or lakes · Westmeath

    Lough Ree, formerly called Lough Ribh, served as the frontier between Hy-Many (the O'Kelly principality) on the west and Kilkenny West in the kingdom of Meath on the east.

    Read the passage

    This " Lough of the Kings " formed the frontier line between Hy-Many, the principality of the O'Kelly's, on the west, and " Kilkenny West," in the kingdom of Meath, on the east.

    Among several interesting islands we may mention Inis Clothrann (or Quaker Island), named after the sister of Queen Mab (or Jleave). On the highest point of it once stood that queen's palace, and it was on the sunny strand below that she was bathing when the cowardly Ulster chief struck her dead with a stone from his sling. Professor Stokes states that St. Dermot is said to have lived here about the year 500 ; and the remains of seven churches can be traced. One of these called Templemurry, is of large size; it is said no woman could enter it and survive twelve months. The smallest Church is Templedermot, and the most remarkable, standing some distance from the others, has a square tower (the only instance in Ireland of an ancient Celtic Church thus shaped), joined or bonded on to

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

21. Roscommon Castle: Anglo-Norman fortress and Civil War destruction

    Roscommon · town · Roscommon · 1269–1691

    Roscommon Castle was built in 1269 under Justiciary Robert Ufford, replacing an earlier fortress. Its thick walls and semicircular towers survive as a total ruin; portions were still habitable during the Civil War but were destroyed by retreating forces after the Battle of Aughrim, apparently by gunpowder.

    Read the passage

    The Castle, visible from the railway station, about a quarter of a mile to the north of tlie town, was built in 1269, when the ofl5ce of Justiciary of Ireland was held by Robert DUtford. There is, however, no doubt that a fortress of a much earlier date

    i6

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 43

22. Tuam traces importance to 6th-century Saint Jarlath

    Tuam · town · Galway · 500–1834

    Tuam traces its importance back to the 6th-century saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery there. It remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834.

    Read the passage

    From Athenry it is 16 miles northwards to Tuam {Hotel: Guy's Imperial), a pleasant, and in some ways smart little town. On the other hand it looks the humblest of cities ; yet it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, and traces its importance back to the 6th-centui'y saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient Cross with carvings, described thus by Miss Stokes: — "Crucifixion on one side ; figure of a bishop on the other ; a funeral procession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work.

    Tlie chief buildings in the town are the two Cathedrals, that ol St. Mary (Church of Ireland) and that of St. Jarlath (Roman Catholic). The former carries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam. Of these ancient churches

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

23. Franciscan Abbey at Cong, founded 1290

    Cong · parish · Galway · 1290–1737

    A Franciscan abbey was built at Cong in 1290 and dissolved in 1537, yet the friars remained around their home for two further centuries. The tower has tracened windows and a chapel on its north side still used once a year for Mass.

    Read the passage

    Franciscan Abbey was built in 1290 in a picturesque situation ; and even after the dissolution in 1537 the faithful friars lingered round their home for two hundred years, r; The tower, with tracened windows, is graceful ; and on the north of it is a chapel still used once a year for celebration of Mass. The east window of the chancel is of the .same (15th century) date as the tower. Tlie cloisters and friary buildings stood on the south side. The C<istle was one of the Clanricarde foundations.

    At 5 miles we pass on the left the Inchacommaun islands, and shortly afterwards on our right Rabbit Island, where Lord Headley frequently camps. Further on, on the right, we see Annaghdown Castle and Abbey, both in ruins.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 41

24. Round Tower and ruined churches of Scattery Island

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare · 800–1600

    Scattery Island's Round Tower is the tallest in Ireland and uniquely has a door at ground level, dating to the 9th–10th century. The site also includes a Cathedral, an early Oratory with a romanesque chancel arch, Senan's Well, Temple Senan chapel, the height of Ard-na-n-Angeal, ruins of Temple-a-Mary, and a 16th-century castle. The Clogh Oir (Golden Bell) of Senan is preserved by the Keane family of Ennis.

    Read the passage

    There is an interesting description of the ruined buildings of Scattery in the E. S.A.I. Handbook, 1898 {IVestro])])) ; a few notes will here suffice. The Round Tower is the tallest in Ireland, and is exceptional in having a door on the ground level. Miss Stokes notes that as its masonry is not "hammer-dressed," it may be dated among the earliest (9th to 10th century). The

    196 KILEUSH— KILKEE

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 15

25. Struth-an-ail-an-erd stream anomaly, Glencar

    Glencar · electoral division · Sligo

    At the county-boundary bridge west of Mrs. Siberry's cottage, when the wind blows from a certain point, the water of the Struth-an-ail-an-erd stream is driven upwards and back over the mountain.

    Read the passage

    minutes' climb among rocks and foliage. Westward from the cottage, along the road, is the county-boundary bridge ; and here, when the wind blows from a certain point, the water of the Struth-an-ail-an-erd stream is driven upwards and back again over the mountain. Another path behind the cottage leads to the "Swiss Valley." Among these northern rocks fern-collectors may find some uncommon specimens, which for obvious reasons we forbear to name.

    The excursion to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains. The whole round is about 13 miles. By taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group of ancient crondechs and stone monuments at Cakrowmore. A few miles nortli-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea, " the Hill of Executions " (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 45). The fine view extends from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam

26. Askeaton's Desmond castle, Templar church and Franciscan Abbey

    Askeaton · townland · Limerick · 1419

    Askeaton is remarkable for its ancient buildings including a Norman castle of the Desmonds, a Knights Templars' Church, and a Franciscan Abbey founded in 1419 with uncommon cloisters.

    Read the passage

    AsKEATON (railway station), remarkable for its ancient buildings. Its Nonnan castle of the Desmonds ; Knights Templars' Church ; and Franciscan Abbey (1419), with uncommon cloisters, are all worth visiting.

    Four miles inland, and south from Askcaton, is BallingraDe Junction, which is 2 miles from Ralhkcalc station. Here Is another Desmond Castle and several ancient buildings, including an "Early English" Priory. At the beginning of the last centui-y some Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate settled in this neighbourhood.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 14

27. Bishop Walsham How's death at Dhulough, 1897

    Doolough · townland · Mayo · 1897

    The house overlooking Dhulough at Delphi was where Walsham How, the late Bishop of Wakefield, died while on a fishing holiday in 1897. The Delphi pass and surrounding mountain and sea views are described as among the finest in the British Isles.

    Read the passage

    is the Rev. E. Spencer Gough, rector of Baruingham, Yorkshire. The road from Leenane around by Aasleagh and Delphi to the upper end of Dhulough offers a delightful cycling run, and includes some mountain and sea views not to be surpassed in the British Isles, During the Royal tour in Ireland, in 1903, the King of Greece paid a special visit to Delphi, Princess Victoria and the Lord-Lieutenant spending some time in fishing the river and lake, the Royal party afterwards taking tea at the Lodt,'e, The house overlooking Dhulough is an attractive feature on going through the Delphi pass. It was here that Walsham How, the late Bishop of Wakefield, died while on a fishing holiday in 1897. The road which branches off to the right just below Dhulough is a rather rough road, but the views of Tauyard Lake, and in the ShefiFry Pass, are of a wild, and it might be said, magnificent character. It is the most attractive route from Delphi, and also the shorter to Westport, and is by no means impassable for a carriage and pair. The district is known as the Barony of Murrisk, a very ancient name, a corruption of a word meaning a sea-marsh.

    Louisburgh (21 miles from Leenane and 14 from Westport ; Hotels: (I.A.C., C.) M'Dermott's (small, modern); (0.) M'Girr's (also small)) is a dull village of 400 inhabitants, within a mile of the sea, and as free as Athenry from all attempt to adorn itself with outward attraction. There is salmon fishing in the rivers near for 10s. a day. Boats can be had to visit Glare Island, to which it is the nearest point. Its only piece of antiquity is the disused chapel, now converted to secular uses.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 35

28. Castleconnell Castle siege and destruction, 1688

    Castleconnell · town · Limerick · 1688

    Castleconnell Castle, previously occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, held out for King James in 1688. After a siege lasting two days the fortress was taken and blown up with gunpowder.

    Read the passage

    The village, much cleaner and neater than most Irish villages, takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high and solitary rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe is said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Tlioniond, who, having put out his eyes, afterwards cruelly murdered ,him. The fortress was subsequently occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days, and blown up with gunpowder.

    Though Castleconnell is to be ranked liigh upon the fisherman's list, there is hardly any free fishing, and the salmon

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now through Castleconnell, a town that takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, set on a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe was said to have been lured into that castle by the Prince of Thomond, who blinded him and then cruelly murdered him. Later the fortress passed to Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but after a siege lasting just two days it was taken and blown up with gunpowder. Not much of it left after that.

29. Clifden town founded by D'Arcy, 1815

    Clifden · town · Galway · 1815

    Clifden originated through Mr. D'Arcy, who offered leases for ever with four acres of mountain land at twenty shillings per annum. As late as 1815 there was only a single house on the site, and the town is described as dusty and uninteresting.

    Read the passage

    Clifden {Hotels: (C.) Lyden's ; (I.A.C., C.) Railway; M'Donnell's). The town is dusty and uninteresting ; so late as the year 1815 there was only a single house on the site. Its origin is due to Mr. D' Arcy, who first pointed out the advantageous position, and offered "leases for ever, together with four acres of mountain land, at but a short distance from the projected town, at twenty shillings per annum." Clifden is favourably situated on a ridge at the head of the Bay of Ardbear, near the Atlantic coast, of which a fine view may be had from the neighbouring hills. The Owenglen river makes a picturesque cascade close to the town.

    The little town is overwhelmed both by the monster Workhouse and the huge Roman Catholic Cathedrah The latter has indeed a handsome spire ; but both these buildings are out of all proportion to the population here.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 30

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clifden, you are in a town that barely existed two centuries ago. So late as 1815 there was only a single house on this site. The town owes its origin to Mr. D'Arcy, who saw the advantageous position on a ridge at the head of the Bay of Ardbear and offered "leases for ever, together with four acres of mountain land, at but a short distance from the projected town, at twenty shillings per annum." The guidebook calls the town dusty and uninteresting, though the Owenglen river makes a picturesque cascade close by. The little place is overwhelmed by two buildings out of all proportion to its population: a monster Workhouse and a huge Roman Catholic Cathedral with a handsome spire.

30. Ennis Franciscan Abbey, 13th century

    Ennis · town · Clare · 1200–1299

    The Franciscan Abbey in Ennis is described as the chief historical building of the town, a 13th-century structure whose chancel arch supports a curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles.

    Read the passage

    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    204 LIMERICK TO SLIGO

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

31. Execution of 'Fighting Fitzgerald' and burial at Turlough

    Turlough · townland · Mayo · 1786

    George Robert Fitzgerald, known as 'Fighting Fitzgerald,' was executed in Castlebar in 1786. His residence was at Turlough, about four miles east of Castlebar, where his remains lie among ruins in the demesne overlooked by an ancient round tower.

    Read the passage

    In Castlebar was executed in 1786 the notorious George Robert Fitzgerald, better known as "Fighting Fitzgerald." His residence was at Turlongh, about 4 miles east of Castlebar, where his remains rest among some ruins in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower. From the railway we obtain a good view of Croagh Patrick before reaching Westport (p. 230).

    For the routes from Westport (1) to Leenane and Clifden see page 223 (reverse way) ; (2) to Achill, page 232.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Turlough was the residence of George Robert Fitzgerald, known as 'Fighting Fitzgerald.' He was executed in Castlebar in 1786, and his remains rest here among ruins in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower.

32. Joyce family settlement in Iar-Connaught

    near Joyce Country · locality · Galway · 1272–1307

    The Joyce Country encompasses northern County Galway including Killery, Lough Corrib, Lough Mask, and the Maamturk Mountains. The first Joyce is said to have arrived in Ireland during the reign of Edward I and acquired extensive property in Iar-Connaught; the Joyces are reputed to be the tallest and strongest race in Ireland.

    Read the passage

    The Joyce Cotjntey comprehends the north of the county of Galway, including in its area Killery, part of Lough Conib, Lough Mask, and the group of the Maamturk Mountains. The first Joyce is said to have come to L-eland in the reign of Edward L, and acquired extensive property in Jar-Connaught. The Joyces have the reputation of being the tallest and strongest race in Ireland.

    In MwEELBEA (2688 feet), the noble mountain "which stands like a great watch-tower guarding the entrance to Killery Harbour," the Upper Silurian grits and conglomerates rise to their highest point in the west of Ireland. It is well worth ascending for the splendid views obtained : the hotel boatman is a good authority on the most convenient place for a start.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

33. Prehistoric relics from deepened Shannon bed near Portumna

    Portumna · town · Galway

    When commissioners deepened the bed of the Shannon above Portumna to improve navigation, successive strata yielded stone hatchets, bronze spears and swords, iron implements, and antiquated firelocks, revealing a sequence of prehistoric and historic occupation.

    Read the passage

    A few miles above Portumna the Shannon was almost unnavigable until the commissioners deepened the bed of the river. During these operations a number of very interesting prehistoric relics were brought to light. In the greatest depths stone hatchets were found. In a sti'atum overlying this were bronze spears and swords ; a still nearer deposit contained implements of iron, such as swords and spear-heads ; and in the strata next the surface more modern implements, among which were antiquated firelocks.

    Banagher {Hotels : M'Intyre's ; (C.) Miss Miller's (Temp.)) is a market town on the left bank of the river, and the railway terminus of a branch line from Clara. The river is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, which is protected by two towers and a battery : connected with it there are large barracks. About a mile from the town is the well-known Banagher distillery. In the vicinity are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans, the last representative of whom died a little more thau half a century ago. He has been regarded as the " last Irish chief."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 19

34. Sarsfield Bridge and Lord Fitzgibbon statue

    Sarsfield Bridge · street · Limerick · 1831–1855

    Sarsfield Bridge was erected in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, connecting County Clare with Newtown-Pery. A statue was erected on the bridge in 1855 to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava.

    Read the passage

    About a quarter of a mile to the south stands Sarsfield Bridge, erected in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, connecting the County of Clare with Newton-Pery. On this bridge a statue was erected in 1855 to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava. Just opposite is the Shannon Rowing Club-house, one of the prettiest and best built of its kind, a real ornament to the city. Tliere is a long line of quays running from the Sarsfield Bridge to the floating docks, which, with the more recently constructed graviug docks, have proved of great importance to the town.

    Newtown-Pery. — The better streets are all situated in this part of the city, which is laid out almost with the regularity of an American city, the streets being for the most part straight, and crossing each otlier at right angles, George's Street, futilely re-named O'Connell Street by the Nationalists, contains the principal shops and warehouses, many of them of imposing

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    Along here you have Sarsfield Bridge, put up in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, linking County Clare with Newtown-Pery. There's a statue on the bridge from 1855, put up to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava. Just opposite stands the Shannon Rowing Club-house, described as one of the prettiest and best built of its kind, a real ornament to the city. A long line of quays runs from here to the floating docks, which with the more recently constructed graving docks have proved of great importance to the town.

35. St. Benan's oratory and the Black Fort near Kilronan

    Kilronan · village · Galway

    On the ridge south-east of the founder's chief settlement on Aran is the 'unique' oratory of St. Benan, while south-west on the coast stands the remarkable Black Fort, which was unfortunately fast disappearing at the time of writing. Hops found growing nearby may be survivors of the monastery garden.

    Read the passage

    founder's chief settlement, and hither resorted Kieran of Clonmacnois, and Brendan of Smerwick before he left to cross the howling seas and sight the "spray-swept Hebrides." The hops found growing here may be the last survivors of the monastery garden. On the ridge (south-east) is the "unique" oratory of St. Benan ; and south-west on the coast is the very remarkable Black Fort, unfortunately fast disappearing.

    About a mile along the western (main) road out of Kilronan is the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years with Enda. A little beyond (south-west) is Dun Oghil, which is considered to have been "once a finer example than Dun Aengus" of the early fort. It is at the eastern extremity of the central prehistoric village, Baile luc Scan, a collection of ancient "beehive" cells, huts and forts. About 2 miles farther along the road is Kilmurvey. Near this (south-west) is MacDuach's Chapel, named after the saint who founded the church and tower near Gort in the 7th century. On the sea clitf, ^ mile from the chapel, is the celebrated

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

36. St. Mary's Church and the Siege Bell

    Athlone · town · Westmeath

    The tower of St. Mary's Church in Athlone still stands with its ancient bell. This bell rang out the famous peal that was the signal for the final assault during the 1691 siege.

    Read the passage

    seems to have had no idea of chivalry " — lived at the time of the siege of 1691. Of St. Mary's Church the tower with its ancient bell yet stands, from which rang out the famous " peal," referred to by Macaulay, the signal for the final assault above mentioned.

    On the Connaught side of the river, once stood tlie abbey of St. Peter — now only remembered by its name, which survives in St. Peter's Port.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Athlone in Westmeath, you are near the tower of St. Mary's Church, which still stands with its ancient bell. In the siege of 1691, that bell rang out the famous peal that Macaulay called the signal for the final assault.

37. Adare Manor designed by amateur mason Conolly

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1832

    Adare Manor, seat of the Earl of Dunraven, is a fine mansion built in 1832. The greater portion was designed by an amateur mason named Conolly, with no architect's drawings furnished, and features modern oak carving by local talent.

    Read the passage

    The Village Gate of Adare Manor is opposite the hotel. For a view of the Rouse turn right wlien the path forks within. It is a fine modern mansion built in 1832, and " the greater portion " was " designed by an amateur, a mason named Conolly, . . . not a single drawing having been furnished by an architect " (Memorials). The special feature to note is the beautiful modern oak carving on overmantels, staircase, etc., all done by local talent.

    The Quin family is from the younger branch of the descendants of OlioU Olum, King of Munster in the 3rd century.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 12

38. Clare Abbey founded 1195 by Donald O'Brien

    Clareabbey · townland · Clare · 1195

    Clare Abbey was founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular. Its fine ruins are close to the railway line.

    Read the passage

    About 2 miles up-stream from Ardsollus Station (19| miles) is QuiN Abbey, an extensive and well-preserved ruin, founded for Franciscan friars, and dating probably irom 1402. An examination of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored at gi'eat cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The best things at Clare Castle (23 miles) are the fine meadows, with the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in the river Fergus. Close to the railway line (right) are the fine ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular.

    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

39. Franciscan Abbey (Poor Abbey) at Adare founded 1464

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1464

    The Franciscan Abbey at Adare, said to be the most celebrated of all Munster monasteries, had its foundation stone laid in 1464. Its cloisters on the north side are darkened by a giant central yew tree, reminiscent of Muckross Abbey at Killarney.

    Read the passage

    The left road from the above fork leads to the Poor or Franciscan Abbey, said to be the most celebrated of all the Munster monasteries. The foundation stone was laid in 1464, but most of the arches and much of the work are rude and plain. The effective tracery of the south and east windoivs is similar to that at the Augustinian Abbey, and at Muckross, Killarney. One is reminded of the latter ruin also by the cloisters on the N. side, much darkened by a giant central yew-tree.

    Across the grass, and near the village bridge, are seen the remains of the Castle, also within the park. A castle is known to have stood here before 1226, and may have been founded some years previously by the Anglo-Normans. "On the attainder of 'silken' Thomas, in 1536, the castle was forfeited to the Crown," and, passing to the Desmonds, was called Desmond Castle. It was dismantled by Cromwell. The Gate Tower contains the groove for the portcullis. Of the keep, built on the ancient Rath, the ruins are not imposing ; they are south-east of the inner ward. Near the castle is the old Parish Church of St. Nicholas. The chancel contains probably the original Norman walla, is "about the oldest building now remaining in Adare," and dates from something between 1280 and 1320. In 1806 it ceased to be used for the Protestant service, which was transferred to the Augustinian building.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

40. Maynooth Castle founded by Maurice Fitzgerald

    Maynooth · town · Kildare · 1176–1547

    Maynooth Castle was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton during the reign of Henry VIII but later restored to the family; the keep and several towers remain.

    Read the passage

    The Castle of Maynooth, adjoining the college, was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald, and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton, in the reign of Henry VIII., but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the surrounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength.

    The Protestant Episcopal Church, erected in the beginning of the 16th century by Earl Gerald Fitzgerald, has an imposing 12

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 3

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Maynooth, you are near a Fitzgerald stronghold founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald. John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare, repaired and strengthened it in 1426. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton in the reign of Henry the Eighth, but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the surrounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength.

41. Connemara Marble quarry at Recess

    near Recess · population centre · Galway

    At Recess stood the principal quarry of Connemara Marble, an ornamental stone described by Dr. Hull as composed of crystalline limestone and serpentine. Specimens were displayed in the Geological Museum of Trinity College Dublin and the Dublin Museum.

    Read the passage

    At Recess is the principal quarry of the famous ornamental stone known as Cnmvcmara Marble, described by Dr. Hull as composed of " crystalline limestone and serpentine." Those who have seen the pillars and facings of the Entrance Hall at the New Geological Museum of Trinity College, Dublin, will remember the beautiful green colouring of this exquisite rock. There is also a magnificent specimen in the Natural History department of the Dublin Museum.

    There is a rich treat for the cyclist on the way from Recess Station to Kylemore. This is a run of 13 miles along the splendid road that goes northwards round the curving shores of Loughs Derryclare and Inagii, The latter is one of the finest bits of scenery to be found in Ireland, especially when one is lucky enough to get sunshine on the eascern shoulders of the "Bens" after rain. For the character of this view of those mountains, see remarks on page 219. The only vegetation is on the islands. For Kylemore see page 226.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 29

42. Dun Onaght and Clochan na Carraige beehive cell

    Dun Onaght · enclosure · Galway

    About one mile north-west of Dun Aengus is the fine fort called Dun Onaght. Near it stands Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect of the beehive cells, formed by projecting stones until the walls meet in one flag at the apex.

    Read the passage

    About one mile north-west of this is another fine fort called Dun Onaght ; and near it is Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect of the "beehive" cells, " formed in a manner universally adopted by early races in all periods of the history of man and in various portions of the globe, where stone was available, before the knowledge of the principle of the arch had reached them. The

    212 GALWAY

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

43. Monastery of Inishbofin on Lough Ree

    near Inishbofin · parish · Galway

    A monastery on Inishbofin (White Cow Island) in Lough Ree is described as the most interesting of any on the lake. Its foundation is attributed to St. Rioch, nephew of St. Patrick, described as a Briton or Welshman by birth.

    Read the passage

    the main building. "The monastery of Inishofin (or White Cow Island) is, in some respects, the most interesting of any upon Lough Eeo, because its foundation is attributed to St. Eioch, the nephew of St. Patrick, ... a Briton or Welshman by birth." On Hare Inkind no hares are now living to explain the name ; they have relinquished it in favoitt of the tenant. Lord Castlemaine, who has laid out the ground well. On the western shore is the interesting ruin oi Randou-n Castle, "a famous spot in Irish history for the last 2000 years." In ancient times it was called John's (Eoin) House after a local Celtic saint ; when the Normans, who hated the Celts, came and "established a castle of the Knights Ilospitallers, they changed the dedication to that of St. John the Baptist." The castle still stands, with a round tower, a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity,' and a fortified wall, "unique in Ireland."

    Atlilone is the most convenient station for visiting Lissoy, the supposed scene of Goldsmith's " Deserted Village " ; and the celebrated ecclesiastical ruins of Clonmacnois on the Shannon.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 5

44. Quin Abbey, Franciscan ruin with fortress

    Quin · town · Clare · 1402

    Quin Abbey is an extensive and well-preserved Franciscan friary ruin, probably dating from 1402, recently restored at great cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress of Norman period or earlier, with ancient monuments in the adjoining cemetery.

    Read the passage

    About 2 miles up-stream from Ardsollus Station (19| miles) is QuiN Abbey, an extensive and well-preserved ruin, founded for Franciscan friars, and dating probably irom 1402. An examination of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored at gi'eat cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The best things at Clare Castle (23 miles) are the fine meadows, with the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in the river Fergus. Close to the railway line (right) are the fine ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular.

    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

45. St. Caimin's 7th-century church on Iniscaltra

    near Inishcaltra or Holy Island · townland · Clare · 600–700

    St. Caimin founded a church on Iniscaltra (Holy Island) in the 7th century, and the western end of the church still standing is likely part of that original building.

    Read the passage

    There is certain soft beauty about Scariff Bay (pier). On its north side is Iniscaltra ("the island burying-ground "), or Holy Island on which are some ancient buildings of unusual interest. St. Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century, and in all probability the western end of the church now standing is part of that building. The chancel, however, is much later, and is dated by Miss Stokes 1007 A.D. It was, she says, "built by King Brian Borumhe (Boru), and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a Rouiid Totver of, perhaps, the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and shows the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian "speaks of a St. Anmchadh, who, coming fi-om Iniscaltra, travelled to Germany, and became a recluse at Fulda " {Stokes).

    On the same side as Scariff Bay is Mountshannon, where there is a comfortable old-fashioned hotel which can put up 20 to 30 anglers in the season. "Dapping" with the natural fly is a favourite method of the sport in early summer. The charge per day for man and boat is 7s. 6d. Otherwise fishing free. The Shannon steamers do not stop here but at Williamstotvn, a short distance above. The scenery around Mountshannon is pretty enough to satisfy those who have no taste for fishing. On the opposite side of the lough is Youghal Bay, across which we have a good view of the Devil's Bit Mountain,

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 18

46. Athlone Castle's 13th-century base built by Bishop of Norwich

    Athlone · town · Westmeath · 1213

    The only remaining 13th-century part of Athlone Castle is the base of the fort built by the Bishop of Norwich in 1213. The imposing machicolations and outer walls are modern, and the castle is now used for military stores.

    Read the passage

    and a little lower down by the road bridge. On tlie Leinster or east side are the best streets, shoi)s and the hotel, as well as the smaller station (G.S. and W). On the Connaught or west side is the principal railway station, the barracks (the town is always garrisoned), and what remains of the Castle now used for Military Stores. The only old part (13th century) remaining of the Castle is the base of the fort built by the Bishop of Norwich, The imposing machicolations and outer walls are modern.

    The earliest fort seems to have occupied the Celtic " dun " near the present bridge, in the far-off time when the crossing was made over the fords ; and whe" troops and travellers knew well the hostelry and the history alike of that ancient taverner, one " Luan," to whom our best scholars trace the latter pai-t of the name of the town. It seems strange that the place should be connected with Korwich, but it is reliable history that the Bishop of the most eastern city of England built here in 1213 the central castle of Ireland, and we shall find more of this builder-bishop's work at Clonmacnois. The castle has had an eventful record of assaults and sieges, but of none more famous than the siege of 1691, when GinckoU captured Athlone, and so forced the battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. At first the garrison under Grace, and, Later St. Euth, who held the castle for James II., stood firm, but the heavy fire of GinckeU's men and their last assault utterly broke the Irish defence.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Athlone now. The town straddles the river, with its better streets on the Leinster side and the barracks and castle remains on the Connaught side. The only old part of the castle left is the 13th-century base of the fort, built by the Bishop of Norwich in 1213 — what the source calls the central castle of Ireland. The imposing machicolations and outer walls you may notice are modern, and the building now serves as military stores. There was an earlier fort too, a Celtic dun near the present bridge, from the days when travellers crossed by ford. Scholars trace the latter part of the town's name to a taverner called Luan, whose hostelry troops and travellers knew well. The castle went on to have a long record of assaults and sieges. The most famous was 1691, when Ginckell captured Athlone and so forced the battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. The garrison under Grace and later St. Ruth held the castle for James II, but the heavy fire and the final assault broke the Irish defence.

47. Black Abbey of the Augustinians at Adare founded 1315

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1315–1852

    The Black Abbey of the Augustinians at Adare was founded in 1315; part of it is now used as the Protestant Church. It was restored in 1852, but the interior remains choked by heavy tower supports and Dunraven pews. The later cloisters contain a lavatory sink and the refectory is now a school.

    Read the passage

    Close to the Bridge, and nearer Limerick, is the Black Abbey of the Augustinians, founded in 1315 ; part of which is used as the Protestant Church. The slender proportions of the tower, as of that of the Franciscan Abbey, will strike the visitor, as well as the "Muckross" tracery of the east window of the Church. This was restored in 1852, but the interior is still choked up, not only by the heavy tower supports, but by the Duuraven pews. The later cloisters have a lavatory sink ; the Refectory is now the school.

    13

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

48. Bridges linking Kilkieran Bay islands as relief work

    Kilkieran Bay · bay · Galway

    Five of the largest islands in the Kilkieran Bay archipelago were joined by bridges built as relief work when G. W. Balfour was Irish Secretary. The project provided employment in this remote coastal district.

    Read the passage

    Turning west from Costello we should come to an archipelago of islands in Kilkieran Bay. Five of the largest are joined by bridges, relief work done when Rt. Hon. G. W. Balfour was Irish Secretary. At Lettcrmullcn is the Hotel of the Isles where brown trout and sea trout fishing and rough shooting are offered to visitors. Some of these small out-of-the-way hotels are both comfortable and reasonable, and deserve to be better known.

    At 33 miles from Galway is Recess, where wo stop first at the small station belonging to the splendid hotel of the M.G.W.R. Company ; and, one mile beyond, reach the principal station.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 28

49. Ennis Martyrs' Pillar, memorial to 1867 executions

    Ennis · town · Clare · 1867

    Beyond the Infirmary in Ennis stands the Martyrs' Pillar, erected in memory of three men who suffered death in Manchester in 1867. It is chiefly notable for its inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-cutter.

    Read the passage

    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    204 LIMERICK TO SLIGO

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

50. Pre-Norman antiquities on the Aran Islands

    Inishmore · electoral division · Galway

    The Aran Islands are densely covered with ancient remains, including a typical collection of pre-Norman structures. These range from cromlechs and "beehive" cells to "churches with chancels."

    Read the passage

    The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great icesheet that seems to have descended hither from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay " to such an extent that it extended aU over the Ai-an Islands, where Mr. Kinahan has observed striae pointing about north 25 east " (Hull). The antiquarian will find here "a typical collection of nearly all of the more remarkable structures of pre-Nonnan times," from cromlechs and " beehive " cells to "churches with chancels."

    The uncommon characteristics of the natives mark them out as of a special type, hardly less peculiar to the soil than the colony which Scottish tourists find in St. Kilda. Their home-spun dress, cow-hide sandals called " pampooties," and relics of ancient customs win attract notice. "We might be disposed," says Dr. Beddoe, " trusting to Irish traditions respecting the islands, to accept these people as representatives of the Firbolgs, had not Cromwell, that upsettor of all tilings Hibernian, left in Aranmore a small English garrison who subsequently apostatised to Catholicism, intermarried with the natives, and so vitiated the Firbolgian pedigree." Dr. Petrie describes them as of a generally high moral character.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

51. Ashford House, seat of Lord Ardilaun

    Ashford · townland · Galway

    Ashford House, the seat of Lord Ardilaun, is well seen from the lake as the steamer enters a little wooded bay near Cong. Sir Benjamin Guinness, Lord Ardilaun's father, carefully restored the abbey ruins and rebuilt parts of the cloister arcade.

    Read the passage

    Ashford House (Lord Ardilaun) is well seen as the steamer sweeps round into the little wooded bay, but not a vestige of the village appears. It is in fact about 2 miles away to the left. Cong {Hotels : (C) Clare Arms ; Ryan's ; both small but clean) has many attractions, bringing sight-seers from all over the world. The sights include the abbey, demesne grounds and caves. The abbey is partly situated in the grounds of Lord Ardilaun {admission at the cottage left of the carved gateway). The ruins received careful attention at the hands of Sir Benjamin Guinness, tlie father of Lord Ardilaun, who placed them under proper control and.rebuilt some of the cloister arcade.

    238 GALWAY TO CLIFDEN

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 41

52. Ballysodare: decayed village, St. Feichin's Abbey and rapids

    Ballysadare · townland · Sligo

    Ballysodare is a village on the Owenmore with rapids and a small waterfall. The Abbey of St. Feichin overlooks the rapids on the west side. The place is described as much decayed, little more than a wreck of its former condition.

    Read the passage

    Ballysodare, finely placed at the foot of the Lurgan Hills, is a village on the Owenmore, which falls into the bay over a series of rocky ledges, forming a succession of rapids, ending with a fine though small waterfall. The Abbey of St. Feichin overlooks the rapids on the west side of the river, where the only good view of them is to be obtained. The remarkable salmon ladders farther up should be seen. The place is much decayed, and little more than a wreck of its former condition.

    Here the road tiuns(northward, in full view of Knockuarea, on the left, with a southern face that is a very cataract of ochrecoloured screes.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here you have Ballysodare, a village on the Owenmore at the foot of the Lurgan Hills. The river falls into the bay over rocky ledges, forming rapids that end with a fine though small waterfall. The Abbey of St. Feichin overlooks the rapids on the west side of the river, where the only good view of them is to be had. Farther up, there are remarkable salmon ladders. The place is much decayed, little more than a wreck of its former condition.

53. Brian Boru's chancel on Iniscaltra

    near Inishcaltra or Holy Island · townland · Clare · 1007

    The chancel of the church on Iniscaltra was built by King Brian Boru in 1007 A.D. It marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland, making it an important basis for dating other ancient buildings.

    Read the passage

    There is certain soft beauty about Scariff Bay (pier). On its north side is Iniscaltra ("the island burying-ground "), or Holy Island on which are some ancient buildings of unusual interest. St. Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century, and in all probability the western end of the church now standing is part of that building. The chancel, however, is much later, and is dated by Miss Stokes 1007 A.D. It was, she says, "built by King Brian Borumhe (Boru), and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a Rouiid Totver of, perhaps, the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and shows the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian "speaks of a St. Anmchadh, who, coming fi-om Iniscaltra, travelled to Germany, and became a recluse at Fulda " {Stokes).

    On the same side as Scariff Bay is Mountshannon, where there is a comfortable old-fashioned hotel which can put up 20 to 30 anglers in the season. "Dapping" with the natural fly is a favourite method of the sport in early summer. The charge per day for man and boat is 7s. 6d. Otherwise fishing free. The Shannon steamers do not stop here but at Williamstotvn, a short distance above. The scenery around Mountshannon is pretty enough to satisfy those who have no taste for fishing. On the opposite side of the lough is Youghal Bay, across which we have a good view of the Devil's Bit Mountain,

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 18

54. Delphi Lodge built by Marquis of Sligo

    Delphi · site · Mayo

    Delphi Lodge is situated on the small Finlough and stands on a rocky ledge amidst Scotch firs. It was built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of an old house.

    Read the passage

    Delphi Lodge, built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of the old house, "is beautifully situated on the small Finlough. It stands on a rocky ledge in the midst of a fine group of Scotch firs. The little waterfall on the nortli side of the house is often visited by tourists, who will find no difficulty in obtaining the necessary permission. Finlough, with Dhulough (the black lake), about | mile distant, and' the river which Hows into tlie Killery at Bundorragh, form perhaps the most perfect ideal of a salmon and trout fishery in the kingdom. The lessee of the Lodge, with all sporting rights,

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Right here is Delphi Lodge, built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of an old house. It stands on a rocky ledge in the midst of a fine group of Scotch firs, beautifully situated on the small Finlough. A little waterfall on the north side of the house was often visited by tourists, who would find no difficulty obtaining permission. Finlough, with Dhulough, the black lake, about a mile distant, and the river flowing into the Killery at Bundorragha, formed what the guide calls "perhaps the most perfect ideal of a salmon and trout fishery in the kingdom."

55. Franciscan Church monuments near New Bridge

    Galway · city · Galway · 1700–1799

    The Franciscan Church near New Bridge was built in the 18th century on the site of the old monastic church. It contains curious monuments including those of Sir P. French and another figured with many saints, with remnants of elaborate carving.

    Read the passage

    In the Franciscan Church, near New Bridge, which was built in the 18 th century on the site of the old monastic church, are curious monuments. Notice especially that of Sir P. French, and another figured with many saints. There are some remnants of elaborate carving. Near this there once stood a Dominican Friary. It is from the New Bridge that you obtain quite the pleasantest view in the town.

    Just beyond Lyuch's Castle in Shop Street is the Church of St. Nicholas, dating from 1320. The tower, partly rough-cast, has uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks. The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. The interior was once the stables for the chargers of the Parliament troops during the Civil "War. The chief features of interest are the old slabs in the south transept, and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-Stephen. The font is old and good ; and in the north aisle is what is generally called "the Confessional," but ' ' nothing is definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt that it was ever intended for such use." There are ten bells in the tower, one of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used. Of the remaining nine bells the two largest are cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ringing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway, the Franciscan Church stands near New Bridge, built in the 1700s on the site of the old monastic church. Inside are curious monuments. One belongs to Sir P. French. Another is figured with many saints. There are remnants of elaborate carving. A Dominican Friary once stood near this spot. It is from New Bridge that the pleasantest view in the town can be had.

56. Glencar Waterfall

    Glencar · electoral division · Sligo

    Glencar Waterfall, a deservedly popular picnickers' haunt, is composed of three cascades each separated by a few minutes' climb among rocks and foliage. The steep ascent offers striking westward views of Benbulbin's southern foot.

    Read the passage

    Glencar Waterfall, a good and deservedly popular picnickers' haunt. As you ascend the steep "brae" to this, look back at the striking views, westward, of the rocky buttresses of King's mountain, Benbulbin's southern foot; The waterfall is, to be exact, composed of three cascades, each separated by a few

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

57. Glen Columhkill in the Burren highland

    Glencolumbkille · town · Donegal

    Glen Columhkill is described as the most remarkable of the valleys on the east of the Burren high land, notable for the bareness of surrounding limestone rocks that resemble vast artificial amphitheatres with regular steps and terraces of stone.

    Read the passage

    Glen Columhkill is the most remarkable of the valleys on the east of the Burren high land. What makes those valleys so remarkable is the bareness of the limestone rocks which surround •them. They look like vast artificial amphitheatres rising in regular steps and terraces of stone, receding here and advancing there, till the long parallel lines of stratification fade away in the blue haze of the distance. The isolated hills are like great fortifications surrounded by regular bastions and walls rising one above another, till each terminates in a small citadel crowning the summit of the hill. The light gray of the nearer hills fades into jiurple in the distance, and, should a stray sunbeam strike through the clouds on some remoter j'romoutory, the part lit gleams out like a marble building, with all the effect of some magnificent architecture.

    The numerous rock fissures are lined with the most splendid ferns and other plants — the delicate maidenhair fern being found here as well as on the Aran Islands, together with several species of plants very rarely to be met with in other parts of the British Islands.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Glencolumbkille, you are near a valley the guidebooks called the most remarkable on the east of the Burren highland. What sets it apart is the bareness of the limestone rocks surrounding it. They look like vast artificial amphitheatres, rising in regular steps and terraces of stone, receding and advancing till the long parallel lines of stratification fade into blue haze in the distance. The isolated hills resemble great fortifications with bastions and walls rising one above another, each crowned by a small citadel at its summit. Nearer hills are light gray, fading to purple far off, and when a stray sunbeam breaks through the clouds onto a remote promontory, the lit part gleams like a marble building. The rock fissures are lined with splendid ferns, including the delicate maidenhair fern found here as on the Aran Islands, along with several plant species rarely seen elsewhere in these islands.

58. Louisburgh: a dull village with a disused chapel

    Louisburgh · town · Mayo

    Louisburgh is described as a dull village of 400 inhabitants within a mile of the sea, as free from outward attraction as Athenry. Its only piece of antiquity is a disused chapel now converted to secular uses.

    Read the passage

    Louisburgh (21 miles from Leenane and 14 from Westport ; Hotels: (I.A.C., C.) M'Dermott's (small, modern); (0.) M'Girr's (also small)) is a dull village of 400 inhabitants, within a mile of the sea, and as free as Athenry from all attempt to adorn itself with outward attraction. There is salmon fishing in the rivers near for 10s. a day. Boats can be had to visit Glare Island, to which it is the nearest point. Its only piece of antiquity is the disused chapel, now converted to secular uses.

    Between this and AVestport cyclists will find pleasant going, and the views of Croagh Patrick on the land side (page 230) and of Clew Bay on the other make the scenery delightful. At Murrisk is the Croagh Patrick Hotel, small, though it has recently blossomed from a mere inn into an hotel. Directly behind it is the recognised ascent of Croagh Patrick. Near the shore, is MuRiiiSK Abbey, which derives its name from the Barony. This religious house was fuunded by the O'JIalley family for Austin Friars. (Entrance from north side.) The east wiyidow, of the 15th century, is rather uncommon and effective. Below is a fragmentary crucifix, and at the stone altar a "holed stone." Some windows outside the north-east walls may be earlier than the eastern one ; and outside the north door of the chancel is a

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Louisburgh, a village in Mayo about a mile from the sea. It has about 400 inhabitants, and the old guide calls it a dull village, as free as Athenry from all attempt to adorn itself with outward attraction. Its only piece of antiquity is a disused chapel, now converted to secular uses. There is salmon fishing in the rivers near, at 10 shillings a day, and boats can be had to visit Clare Island, to which Louisburgh is the nearest point.

59. Salmon netting at Leenane shores

    Leenaun · townland · Galway

    Drawing in nets full of salmon along the shores in the mornings is described as one of the sights of Leenane, illustrating the local fishing economy.

    Read the passage

    Leenane is a half-way house between Clifden and Westport. It is in a particularly favourable position for excursions (see below). There is bathing in the lough close to the hotel. There is salmon and white trout fishing in Culfin River and certain loughs at 5s. a day ; brown trout free fishing in several rivers and loughs, and of course the sea-fishing is free. There is mixeil shooting on the bay. It is one of the sights of Leenane to see the fishermen draw in their nets full of struggling silver salmon along the shores in the mornings. Mr. M'Keown of the hotel is one of the well-known landlord-proprietors, not uncommon in Ireland, who by their personality go far to contribute to the success of their enterprises.

    The valley of the Erriflf river, which at Leenane is deepened and widened into the Greater Killery or "red flord," is of considerable interest to the geologist, who will doubtless have at hand the descriptions of Harkness and Hull. It is sufficient here to remind the general tourist that in this remarkable inlet, 12 miles in length, " the glacial phenomena are very striking," and the rocks are "scored with groovings pointing dowTi the valley, while masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore," and that, like the Estuary of the Shannon and Cork harbour, it was, during the Ice Age, a niuch shallower valley, and a " channel of fresh water." Old "Mountain terraces" may be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley, and along the road to Cong; and at the head of the harbour the lines of "river terraces" are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shoreroad are proofs of volcanic action.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the shores of Leenane have long been a working place for fishermen. In the mornings, it was considered one of the sights of Leenane to watch them draw in their nets full of what the guide calls "struggling silver salmon" along the shore. The local economy ran on fishing of several kinds. Salmon and white trout could be had in the Clifden River and certain loughs for 5 shillings a day, brown trout fishing was free in several rivers and loughs, and sea-fishing was free as well. The bay also offered mixed shooting. Leenane itself sat as a halfway house between Clifden and Westport, and Mr. M'Keown of the hotel was known as one of those Irish landlord-proprietors whose personality helped drive the success of their enterprises. The waters around here were not just scenery but a livelihood, and the morning catch of salmon was part of the daily rhythm.

60. Surviving town wall remnants: Lyon Tower and Quay gateway

    Eglinton Street · street · Galway

    Galway's town walls were removed, but portions survive including the Lyon Tower in Eglinton Street and the gateway at the Quay. These are noted as especially worthy of notice.

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    The walls of the town were removed, but some portions still remain, the Lyon Tower in Egliuton Street, and the gateway at the Quay being specially worthy of notice. In the centre of the town is the spacious Eyre Square, with an enclosure laid out in walks, and planted with trees. A carved doorway, dated 1627, which once belonged to the house of a

    208 GALWAY

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on Eglinton Street you can still see part of old Galway. The town walls were mostly removed, but the Lyon Tower survives right on this street, and the gateway at the Quay is also pointed out as worthy of notice.