Black's guide to Galway, Connemara, and the west of Ireland

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. 'Irish Stonehenge' in deer-park north of Lough Gill

   near Lough Gill · lake or lakes · Kerry

   In the deer-park north of Lough Gill, a collection of ancient stones sometimes called the Irish Stonehenge could be found, though described as rather out of the way for the standard tour around the lake.

   Read the passage

   At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore- Booth's place, north of DrumclifT Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely sho\vn to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the way, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

   The Road to Bi'ndoran (the only driving connection is the mail-car which starts at 6 a.m. and has a seat for one passenger) runs northwards round the western foot of Benbulbin, and passes, in 11 miles, through Grange, the best boat-landing for Inismurray.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 47

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass near Lough Gill, a deer-park to the north of the lake holds a collection of ancient stones sometimes called the Irish Stonehenge. It's rather out of the way, though, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake. Not far off is Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place, with what the guide calls the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and Alpine gardens freely shown to visitors.

2. Ancient funeral customs at Cong cross-roads

   Cong · parish · Galway

   In Cong, funeral processions to the Abbey pause at the cross-roads where crosses are deposited beneath an ash tree, a custom of great antiquity surviving to the present day. The same ceremony is also found at Bannow and in parts of France and the Pyrenees.

   Read the passage

   Some very interesting funeral customs of great antiquity have remained in this village np to the present day. After a procession to the Abbey, a pause is made at the cross-roads, and crosses are deposited beneath an ash tree. The same ceremony is found at Bannow, and is also met with among the Pyrenees and in France.

   The demesne of Ashford. (Ticket, obtained in village, must be presented punctually at 11 or 3.) The grounds, which extend for more than two miles along the borders of the lough, are finely laid out, and there are large herds of red and fallow deer. The mansion-house is an extensive pile of buildings in the castellated style, the materials being white and gray limestone. The garden and grounds only are shown.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 42

3. Church of Kieran near Kilronan

   Kilronan · village · Galway

   About a mile along the western road out of Kilronan stands the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years with Enda on the island.

   Read the passage

   About a mile along the western (main) road out of Kilronan is the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years with Enda. A little beyond (south-west) is Dun Oghil, which is considered to have been "once a finer example than Dun Aengus" of the early fort. It is at the eastern extremity of the central prehistoric village, Baile luc Scan, a collection of ancient "beehive" cells, huts and forts. About 2 miles farther along the road is Kilmurvey. Near this (south-west) is MacDuach's Chapel, named after the saint who founded the church and tower near Gort in the 7th century. On the sea clitf, ^ mile from the chapel, is the celebrated

   DiJK Aengijs, nearly 300 feet above the sea, "the central point of interest . . . and one of the finest prehistoric forts of Western Europe." These duns or forts, writes Miss Stokes, are associated with the adventures of Aengus, Conor, and "heroes of the Firbolg race. They may have been in existence two centuries or more before the introduction of Christianity." They were built without mortar ; and the same writer concludes that the ujiright jointings in the walls point to "the work having been portioned out in lots to the labourers." The dun here may once have had four ramparts, of which three are now standing ; and in the outer labyrinth of stones — which rival even those on the summits of Scafell or Glyder-Fach — we have a cheval defrise capable of breaking up most besieging lines. In the doorway still remaining, with horizontal lintel and inclined sides, we see the original type afterwards copied by the monks ; and inside one wall is the interior passage so often found in these early forts {e.g. Dunbeg, Fahan).

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

4. Dooagh village in ruin

   Dooagh · town · Mayo

   Dooagh was a miserable little hamlet with many houses tumbling in ruin and the rest of poor unmortared stone with thatch roofs weighted by stones. It served as the access point to the Meenaun Cliffs.

   Read the passage

   To see the island properly it is necessary to run right round the south end by some means or another, following the grandly named "Atlantic Drive," a very rough road, degenerating at times on the western side into a mere grass-grown mountain track, with one zigzag and precipitous descent. There is no doubt whatever that this road will soon be greatly improved and form one of the features of the island. The views from the south end looking down Achill Sound are bewilderingly beautiful. The giant Corraun peninsula near at hand, the hills of Murrisk behind, and the heights of Clare island to the west, blending in a grand panorama. The rock-fringed shore on the west recalls parts of Cornwall. From the tiny hamlet of Dooagh the famous Meenaun Cliflfs may be visited. Dooagh is a miserable little place, with many houses tumbling in ruin, and the rest with their unmortared stone and thatch roofs weighted by stones of a poor kind. If the tide is low the clifts may be seen by taking a longish walk on the sands, but if high the only way is to follow one of the numerous paths between the peasants' neatly cultivated holdings and breast the hill to the turf -cutting colony above — very rough walking — after this there is a stretch of slippery heather -grown upland, but neither so steep nor rough as what has preceded it ; the total distance from the village is about 1^ miles. The Cliffs are 1000 feet in height, and as they are totally unguarded, care must be taken in the approach. They are not vertical, but razor-edged and streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves has hollowed out some into the semblance of great arches known as the Cathedral Cliffs.

   A visit should be paid, if time permit, to Inisglore and Iniskea islands, celebrated in ancient legend, and formerly the haunts of saints and recluses, of whose long-gone tenancy there is still abundant evidence in numerous crosses and the ruins of sacred edifices.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 39

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up now through Dooagh, on Achill Island. A traveller's guide from another age called it a miserable little place, and that is what you are passing through. Many of its houses were tumbling in ruin, and those still standing were of a poor kind, unmortared stone with thatch roofs weighted down by stones. What brought people here, then as now, was not the hamlet itself but what lies beyond it. From Dooagh the famous Meenaun Cliffs could be visited, about 1 mile from the village. If the tide was low, you could take a longish walk on the sands to reach them. If the tide was high, the only way was to follow one of the paths between the peasants' neatly cultivated holdings, breast the hill to the turf-cutting colony above, which the guide calls very rough walking, and after that cross a stretch of slippery heather-grown upland, though that part was neither so steep nor so rough as what came before it. The cliffs stand 1000 feet in height, and the guide warns that they are totally unguarded, so care must be taken in the approach. They are not vertical walls but razor-edged, streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves hollowed out some of the rock into the semblance of great arches, known as the Cathedral Cliffs. The guide also mentions that the road round the south end of the island, the grandly named Atlantic Drive, was very rough, degenerating at times on the western side into a mere grass-grown mountain track with one zigzag and precipitous descent, but says there is no doubt whatever that this road will soon be greatly improved and form one of the features of the island. From the south end, looking down Achill Sound, the views were bewilderingly beautiful: the giant Corraun peninsula near at hand, the hills of Murrisk behind, and the heights of Clare Island to the west, blending in a grand panorama.

5. Lissadell House bulb farms and gardens

   Lissadell · street · Cork

   At Lissadell House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place north of Drumcliff Bay, were the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom and Alpine gardens, freely shown to visitors.

   Read the passage

   At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore- Booth's place, north of DrumclifT Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely sho\vn to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the way, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

   The Road to Bi'ndoran (the only driving connection is the mail-car which starts at 6 a.m. and has a seat for one passenger) runs northwards round the western foot of Benbulbin, and passes, in 11 miles, through Grange, the best boat-landing for Inismurray.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 47

6. St. Nicholas Parish Church, oldest building in Adare

   Adare · townland · Limerick · 1280–1806

   The old Parish Church of St. Nicholas near Adare Castle has probably original Norman walls dating from between 1280 and 1320, making it the oldest surviving building in Adare. Protestant services ceased there in 1806 and were transferred to the Augustinian building.

   Read the passage

   Across the grass, and near the village bridge, are seen the remains of the Castle, also within the park. A castle is known to have stood here before 1226, and may have been founded some years previously by the Anglo-Normans. "On the attainder of 'silken' Thomas, in 1536, the castle was forfeited to the Crown," and, passing to the Desmonds, was called Desmond Castle. It was dismantled by Cromwell. The Gate Tower contains the groove for the portcullis. Of the keep, built on the ancient Rath, the ruins are not imposing ; they are south-east of the inner ward. Near the castle is the old Parish Church of St. Nicholas. The chancel contains probably the original Norman walla, is "about the oldest building now remaining in Adare," and dates from something between 1280 and 1320. In 1806 it ceased to be used for the Protestant service, which was transferred to the Augustinian building.

   On the left (or west) as you come out of the Village Gate is the White Abbey of the Trinitarians, which was founded before 1299. The Church, which is now the B.C. Church, was at the beginning of the century a baU-alley, and but for the good (second) Earl would have become a potato store. Its chief feature is the massive central tower. The spacious and good interior is beautified by the reredos screen.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 13

7. Temporary migration from Achill to Britain

   near Achill · parish · Mayo

   Large numbers of Achill inhabitants migrated temporarily to England and Scotland for agricultural labour, especially for the potato crops in Dumfries, known locally as 'tatie coppers.'

   Read the passage

   energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the interior of Ireland, As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic state of poverty, a fact sufficiently evident from a glance at the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in other parts of the country, the standard of living has improved. Relief work in the shape of road-making is given in the winter. The lace industry has grown, the Carrickmacross lace-making being the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour is in demand, especially is this the case in regard to the potato crops in Dumfries, " tatie coppers," as they are called, going over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, therefore a large proportion of the time of the natives is taken up in "herding" the stock. Peat-preserving also takes up many hours of labour, as an old dame said, " It's the wan blessing we have, but what with the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it ! " In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound.

   The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of the fact of its almost treeless condition, and the heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rockfringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 38

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through the parish of Achill in Mayo, you're travelling through a place where, for generations, many inhabitants left each year for seasonal work in England and Scotland. They went in their hundreds when agricultural labour was in demand, especially for the potato harvest in Dumfries, work known locally as tatie coppers. The book that records this describes the people living in huts of rough cobbles and turf, in a chronic state of poverty, though the standard of living had improved. Relief came in winter through road-making work, and many homes kept going on Carrickmacross lace-making. Back in Achill itself there were no fences and few stone walls, so much of the day was spent herding stock by hand. Peat-cutting also took up hours of labour. An old woman described it well: it's the one blessing we have, but what with the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it. In May you could see as many as 80 turf-laden boats going up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound. The scenery is most beautiful despite being almost treeless, with the heights of the near islands and mainland as background to rock-fringed bays and stupendous cliffs.

8. Views of the Twelve Bens from Lough Inagh

   Lough Inagh · lake or lakes · Galway

   The most striking views of the Twelve Bens were obtained from the road along the eastern shore of Lough Inagh, where three successive rounded shoulders rise from the island-studded lake. Benbaun at 2,395 feet was the loftiest peak, with Bengorm at 2,336 feet forming a graceful summit.

   Read the passage

   heart of some of the loveliest scenery in the world, full of varied and interesting scrambles, and botanically are pre-eminently the richest in mountain plants in Connaught" {M. C. Hart). The geologist will find in these mountains the same " quartzite rising in great arches or folds, which after disappearing northwards for some 20 miles, rises again in Croagh Patrick on Clew Bay. Sometimes the sides of these hills are destitute of vegetation, where it cannot cling to the dry gritty substance. They have also undergone considerable polishing from former glacial action ; so that it will be easily understood how, seen from certain directions and under favourable sunlight, the mountain sides glisten like glass, or rather with the rich yellowish hue of burnished gold." The views of the Bens which to us appear most striking are those obtained from the road along the eastern shore of Lough Inagh ; from this are clearly seen the three successive "shoulders," like rounded cushions, which rise from the island-studded lake buttressing up the tapering peaks above. Bengorm, 2336 feet high, forms a very gi'aceful summit, but the loftiest point of the group is Benbaun, which is 2395 feet.

   At Recess is the principal quarry of the famous ornamental stone known as Cnmvcmara Marble, described by Dr. Hull as composed of " crystalline limestone and serpentine." Those who have seen the pillars and facings of the Entrance Hall at the New Geological Museum of Trinity College, Dublin, will remember the beautiful green colouring of this exquisite rock. There is also a magnificent specimen in the Natural History department of the Dublin Museum.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 29

9. Keem Bay salmon fishery and amethysts

   Keem · feature · Mayo

   Keem Bay, south of Slievemore, is a semicircular bay with a salmon fishery where Achill amethysts were picked up on the shore, though they were becoming rarer.

   Read the passage

   To the sonth of Slievemore is the semicircular Keem Bay, whore there is a salmon fishery. Here are picked up the Achill amethysts, much sought after and becoming rarer. Not far off was the home of the well-known Captain Boycott, now in ruins.

   To see the island properly it is necessary to run right round the south end by some means or another, following the grandly named "Atlantic Drive," a very rough road, degenerating at times on the western side into a mere grass-grown mountain track, with one zigzag and precipitous descent. There is no doubt whatever that this road will soon be greatly improved and form one of the features of the island. The views from the south end looking down Achill Sound are bewilderingly beautiful. The giant Corraun peninsula near at hand, the hills of Murrisk behind, and the heights of Clare island to the west, blending in a grand panorama. The rock-fringed shore on the west recalls parts of Cornwall. From the tiny hamlet of Dooagh the famous Meenaun Cliflfs may be visited. Dooagh is a miserable little place, with many houses tumbling in ruin, and the rest with their unmortared stone and thatch roofs weighted by stones of a poor kind. If the tide is low the clifts may be seen by taking a longish walk on the sands, but if high the only way is to follow one of the numerous paths between the peasants' neatly cultivated holdings and breast the hill to the turf -cutting colony above — very rough walking — after this there is a stretch of slippery heather -grown upland, but neither so steep nor rough as what has preceded it ; the total distance from the village is about 1^ miles. The Cliffs are 1000 feet in height, and as they are totally unguarded, care must be taken in the approach. They are not vertical, but razor-edged and streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves has hollowed out some into the semblance of great arches known as the Cathedral Cliffs.

   Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 39

10. Archaean rocks and ice-age glaciers of Galway Bay

    near Galway Bay · bay · Clare

    Dr. Hull identified Archaean rocks along the north shore of Galway Bay as among the most ancient of known rock-groups. He also traced great ice-age glacier movements from Galway Bay south-westerly along its southern shores.

    Read the passage

    Galway Bay is the finest inlet on the whole Irish coast. Its length between St. Brendan's Isle and the middle of North Sound is over 30 miles, and its -width at the mouth between Gorumna Island and Moher Cliffs 20 miles. Across its entrance are the throe isles of Aran, stretching from north-west to southeast. Dr. Hull refers to the occurrence here of " Archaean rocks," "the most ancient of known rock-groups." Of these "the most important tract is probably that which lies along the north shore of Galway Bay." The same geologist, speaking of the glacier movements in the ice age, shows that "there was a great movement of the ice out of Galway Bay. We have here got into the great ice-stream, which was continued in a southwesterly direction along the southern shores of Galway Bay."

    The Aran Isles {Steamers from Galway several times a week, some of the ruins are hard to find, see pink pnges) lie in a line across the mouth of Galway Bay, about 28 miles from Galway. This excursion is one of uncommon pleasure for the ordinary tourist ; for those Britons who take an intelligent

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

11. Ashford Demesne at Cong

    Cong · parish · Galway

    The demesne of Ashford extends for more than two miles along Lough Corrib, with large herds of red and fallow deer and a castellated mansion-house of white and gray limestone. The grounds on one side are bounded by a wilderness of limestone rocks, while to the north the landscape is an assemblage of gray limestone hills and boulders.

    Read the passage

    The demesne of Ashford. (Ticket, obtained in village, must be presented punctually at 11 or 3.) The grounds, which extend for more than two miles along the borders of the lough, are finely laid out, and there are large herds of red and fallow deer. The mansion-house is an extensive pile of buildings in the castellated style, the materials being white and gray limestone. The garden and grounds only are shown.

    The gi-ounds surrounding the mansion of Lord Ardilaun are on one side bounded by a wilderness of limestone rocks. While to the south of the village the road is overhung by woods and flourishing young plantations, to the north hardly any sign of vegetation is visible, the landscape presenting an assemblage of gray limestone hills and boulders scattered about in the wildest confusion. The geologist who makes a stay at Cong will be able to collect many Upper Silurian fossils at Boocann and other places to the west of it.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 42

12. Dominican monastery at Portumna on ancient Cistercian site

    Portumna · town · Galway · 1426

    A Dominican friary at Portumna was founded on the site of a very ancient Cistercian chapel dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. Pope Martin V confirmed the Dominicans' possession by a bull dated 8th October 1426, and the walls remain comparatively entire.

    Read the passage

    Portumna {Inn) is in a somewhat decayed condition, and possesses the ruins of a monastery and the remains of an ancient castle. The monastery, which belonged to the Dominican friars, was founded on the site of a very ancient Cistercian chapel dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. The Dominicans were confirmed in their possession by a bull of Pope Martin V. dated 8th October 1426. The walls are comparatively entire. The council, presided over by the Earl of Straff"ord, convened for the purpose of establishing His Majesty's claim to the forfeited estates in Connaught, held its sitting in Portumna Castle, but the members having vrefused to admit the royal claims were sent to Dublin as prisoners under escort of the sheriff.

    A brief view of the "Abandoned Railway" may be had on the east (right) bank just after leaving Portumna Bridge. The end of the deep cutting is visible for a moment. This twelvemile lino was laid down between Portumna and Parsonstown, but owing to a dispute between the Company and the Board of Works it was abandoned. The country-folk ripped up the rails and sleepers. A motor bus runs twice a day each way between Portumna and Ballyquirk.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 19

13. Garry Castle ruins and the last Macloghlan chief

    Garrycastle · street · Westmeath

    Near Banagher stand the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlan family. The last representative of the Macloghlans died a little more than half a century before the guide's publication and was regarded as the last Irish chief.

    Read the passage

    Banagher {Hotels : M'Intyre's ; (C.) Miss Miller's (Temp.)) is a market town on the left bank of the river, and the railway terminus of a branch line from Clara. The river is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, which is protected by two towers and a battery : connected with it there are large barracks. About a mile from the town is the well-known Banagher distillery. In the vicinity are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans, the last representative of whom died a little more thau half a century ago. He has been regarded as the " last Irish chief."

    At Banagher those who have come by rail from Dublin meet the Shannon steamer to go south. Northward the river winds away 32 miles to Athlone, 8^ miles short of which are the celebrated ruins at Clonmacnois (see p. 182) but there is no means of traversing this part of the Shannon except by private enterprise.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    Along here stand the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans. The last representative of the Macloghlans died a little more than half a century before this guide was published. He has been regarded as the "last Irish chief." The castle stood near Banagher, a market town on the left bank of the Shannon. Banagher had a fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, protected by two towers and a battery, with large barracks connected to it. About a mile from the town was the well-known Banagher distillery. At Banagher, those who had come by rail from Dublin met the Shannon steamer to go south. Northward the river winds 32 miles to Athlone, 8 miles short of which are the celebrated ruins at Clonmacnois, though there was no means of traversing that stretch of the Shannon except by private enterprise.

14. Glin Castle, seat of the Knight of Glin (Red Knight)

    Glin · town · Limerick

    Glin Castle has for centuries been the seat of the Knight of Glin, called the 'Red Knight' to distinguish this branch of the Fitzgerald family from the White Knight and the Black Knight of Kerry.

    Read the passage

    Glin Castlo has been for centuries the seat of the Knight of Glin, called the " Rod Knight," to dislingui.sh this branch of the Fitzgerald family from those of the White Kniglit, and the Black Knight (of Kerry).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 14

15. Gort, prosperous town with workhouse and barracks

    Gort · townland · Galway

    Gort is described as a comparatively prosperous town with a barracks, workhouse, etc. The town takes its name from the time when King Guaire had a palace there.

    Read the passage

    Gort (32f miles), a comparatively prosperous town, \\ath a barracks, workhouse, etc.^ The town takes its name from the time when King Gnairt had a palace there. Three miles southwest of Gort is Kilmacduagh, with 7th - century ruins, an ancient fort, and a round tower which leans considerably from the perpendicular.

    At Athenry Junction, 6O5 miles (see page 187) we cross the Midland Great Western Railway for Galway.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

16. Holy well at Patrickswell with bullet-broken carving

    Patrickswell · town · Limerick

    A well with fragmentary carving stands at Patrickswell, about five miles along the road. The carving is said to have been broken by a soldier's bullet.

    Read the passage

    This is an enjoyable trip and deserves a day of good sunny weather. It may be accomplished either by rail or road, the two running very close together. In | mile join the cross roads (right) and then forward again. At Patricksicell, 5^ miles is a Well (right) with fragmentary carving, said to have been broken by a soldier's bullet.

    Adare Manor is the seat of the Earl of Dunraven. In the demesne is one of the most remarkable assemblages of ruins in the kingdom. The word Adare, in old documents Athdara, the Ford of the Oak, sufficiently indicates the character of the trees which once lined the banks of the Maigue.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 12

17. Ice-flow evidence at Old Head, Louisburgh

    Old Head · population centre · Cork

    Geologists proved the movement of ice-flow from east to west along Clew Bay through the discovery of marked rocks on Old Head, Louisburgh, and great blocks of serpentine torn from the north slopes of Croagh Patrick Ridge.

    Read the passage

    Qeologists have proved the movement of the ice-flow from east to west along tlie bay by the discovery of marked rocks on Old Head, Louisburgh, besides the great blocks there of "Serpentine, torn from the north slopes of Croagh Patrick Ridge " {Hull).

    Clare Island, at the mouth of the bay, has an area of 3949 acres, and its" highest elevation is the Hill of Knock (1520 feet) presenting bold and precipitous cliffs to the Atlantic. The island is most conveniently visited from Achill Sound. Of the Cistercian Abbey, founded in 1224, there are remains in which may be seen some fragments of fresco paintings and the so-called tomb of Grace O'Malley. Notice the coat of arms, bearing a boar and the motto (—of the Pioyal Marines !). The tower of Granuaile Castle, the ancient residence of the celebrated Grace O'Malley, is situated above the harboiir on the east. This lady became tlie leader of her clan, and eventually gained the title of " Grace of the Heroes." She was first married to O'Flaherty, Prince of Connemara, and on his decease to Sir Kichard Bourke. "Tradition," says Otway, "hands down a singular item of the marriage-contract. The marriage was to last /or certain but one year, and if at the end of that period either said to the other,

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming up on Old Head. Geologists proved that ice once moved from east to west along Clew Bay. The evidence is here: marked rocks on Old Head, Louisburgh, and great blocks of serpentine torn from the north slopes of Croagh Patrick Ridge. Hull was the one who noted the serpentine. So the ice carried stone westward across the bay, leaving its trace on this headland. Clare Island sits at the mouth of the bay, 3949 acres, with the Hill of Knock rising 1520 feet and bold cliffs facing the Atlantic. It is most conveniently visited from Achill Sound. A Cistercian abbey was founded there in 1224, and its remains still hold fragments of fresco paintings and the so-called tomb of Grace O'Malley. There is a coat of arms bearing a boar and the motto of the Royal Marines. The tower of Granuaile Castle, Grace O'Malley's old residence, stands above the harbour on the east. She led her clan and gained the title "Grace of the Heroes." She married first O'Flaherty, Prince of Connemara, and after his death Sir Richard Bourke. Otway records that tradition hands down a singular item of the marriage contract: the marriage was to last for certain but one year, and if at the end of that period either said to the other—

18. Kilronan cemetery: burial place of Carolan the bard

    Kilronan · parish · Roscommon

    Near Lough Meelagh is the cemetery of Kilronan, where the famous Carolan, one of the last of the veritable Irish bards, was buried.

    Read the passage

    The next lough north-east of this is Mcclagh, near which is the cemetery of Kilronan. Here was buried the famous Carolau, one of the last of the veritable Irish bards.

    At Carrick-on-Shannon {Hotel: The Bush) we enter the county of Leitrim, of which it is the assize town. It was incorporated by James I. The court-house is a good building with a Doric front.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 48

19. O'Rourke's Castle and St. Munchin's Abbey, Dromahair

    Dromahair · town · Leitrim

    At Dromahair, visitors could see O'Rourke's Castle, with walls of prodigious thickness, and St. Munchin's Abbey. The road from there winds back to Lough Gill through a gorge.

    Read the passage

    Dromohair. This means a detour from the lake, as there is no road close to the south side for some miles. At Dromohair {Hotel: (I.A.C., C) Abbey), there are O'Eourke's Castle, with walls of prodigious thickness, and St. Munchin's Abbey to be seen. From here the road wends back to the lough through a gorge, and on reaching it careful watch should be kept for a path on the right, leading through the woods to the Dooney Rock, whence the most beautiful view of the lough is obtained. The richly wooded isles and headlands, the luxuriant masses of beech and oak, give a character all its own to this charming scene. Not far from this, near a school, there is to be found the most interesting sight of all, Toher ISTAlt, a Druid altar, older than history, on which undoubtedly at one time human sacrifices were offered. The ferns growing out of the rock recesses, the constant flow of ice-cold water in the well, and the mysterious depths all add to a weird and almost uncanny scene of beauty and fascination. Total distance for the round and back to Sligo, 23 miles. As to fishing, salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful in the lough, and permission may be obtained by anglers from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

    The fishing on the other Sligo beauty spot, Glencar, is subject to more restriction. Application as above, when terms can be ascertained.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

20. Tweed factories at the Franciscan Abbey site

    Athlone · town · Westmeath

    On the Leinster side of Athlone, near the remains of the Franciscan abbey, large tweed factories employed hundreds of workers, whose early morning commute was a notable feature of town life.

    Read the passage

    The town owned previously two abbeys, one on each side of the river, some part of the walls (not worth visiting) remain of the Franciscan abbey on the Leinster side, near the huge tweed factories which employ so many hands that the march-past of some seven or eight hundred boots on the way to work at 6.30 A.M. awakes the slumbering tourist by its novelty. House accommodation is ever more and more difficult to get in this prosperous specimen of an Irish town.

    Tlie walls, built about 300 years ago, have mostly disappeared, but besides the castle fort several historic buildings remain. There is Ginckell's House, at the corner of North gate Street, in which it is said the Dutchman — the famous general " who

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Athlone, some remnants of the Franciscan abbey survive on the Leinster side, near the large tweed factories. Athlone once had two abbeys, one on each side of the river, and only part of the walls of this one remain. The factories here employ so many hands that the march of seven or eight hundred boots on the way to work at 6.30 in the morning used to wake the slumbering tourist by its novelty. The town walls, built about 300 years ago, have mostly disappeared, though several historic buildings remain besides the castle fort. House accommodation was ever more difficult to get in what the guide called this prosperous specimen of an Irish town.

21. Captain Boycott's ruined home near Keem

    Keem · feature · Mayo

    Not far from Keem Bay stood the home of Captain Boycott, the well-known figure whose name entered the English language, now in ruins.

    Read the passage

    To the sonth of Slievemore is the semicircular Keem Bay, whore there is a salmon fishery. Here are picked up the Achill amethysts, much sought after and becoming rarer. Not far off was the home of the well-known Captain Boycott, now in ruins.

    To see the island properly it is necessary to run right round the south end by some means or another, following the grandly named "Atlantic Drive," a very rough road, degenerating at times on the western side into a mere grass-grown mountain track, with one zigzag and precipitous descent. There is no doubt whatever that this road will soon be greatly improved and form one of the features of the island. The views from the south end looking down Achill Sound are bewilderingly beautiful. The giant Corraun peninsula near at hand, the hills of Murrisk behind, and the heights of Clare island to the west, blending in a grand panorama. The rock-fringed shore on the west recalls parts of Cornwall. From the tiny hamlet of Dooagh the famous Meenaun Cliflfs may be visited. Dooagh is a miserable little place, with many houses tumbling in ruin, and the rest with their unmortared stone and thatch roofs weighted by stones of a poor kind. If the tide is low the clifts may be seen by taking a longish walk on the sands, but if high the only way is to follow one of the numerous paths between the peasants' neatly cultivated holdings and breast the hill to the turf -cutting colony above — very rough walking — after this there is a stretch of slippery heather -grown upland, but neither so steep nor rough as what has preceded it ; the total distance from the village is about 1^ miles. The Cliffs are 1000 feet in height, and as they are totally unguarded, care must be taken in the approach. They are not vertical, but razor-edged and streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves has hollowed out some into the semblance of great arches known as the Cathedral Cliffs.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 39

22. Carved merchant's doorway of 1627 in Eyre Square

    Eyre Square · street · Galway · 1627

    A carved doorway dated 1627, once belonging to a merchant's house, has been placed in Eyre Square as one of its entrances. The square is surrounded by the Railway Hotel, terminus, Royal Hotel, County Club-house, and Bank of Ireland.

    Read the passage

    The walls of the town were removed, but some portions still remain, the Lyon Tower in Egliuton Street, and the gateway at the Quay being specially worthy of notice. In the centre of the town is the spacious Eyre Square, with an enclosure laid out in walks, and planted with trees. A carved doorway, dated 1627, which once belonged to the house of a

    208 GALWAY

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Along here in Eyre Square, there's a carved doorway dated 1627 that once belonged to a merchant's house. The square sits in the centre of Galway, with walks and trees inside its enclosure, and the Railway Hotel, terminus, Royal Hotel, County Club-house, and Bank of Ireland around it.

23. Cross of Cong and Shrine of St Patrick's Tooth at Cong Abbey

    Cong · parish · Galway · 1300–1399

    Cong Abbey held the ornate metal cross-case containing a relic of the True Cross, adorned with gold tracery and precious stones over an inner oak cross. During the 14th century the Shrine of St Patrick's Tooth was also kept in this abbey before its removal to the Dublin Museum.

    Read the passage

    In this Abbey also was kept, during the 14th century, the Shritie of St. Palrick'B Tooth, now in the Dublin Museum.

    Some very interesting funeral customs of great antiquity have remained in this village np to the present day. After a procession to the Abbey, a pause is made at the cross-roads, and crosses are deposited beneath an ash tree. The same ceremony is found at Bannow, and is also met with among the Pyrenees and in France.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 42

24. Dun Conor on Inishmaan

    Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway

    Dun Conor on Inishmaan, named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious oval shape and, though terribly restored, remains a fine fort. The story of Mailly the murderer is associated with the site and should be learnt from a native.

    Read the passage

    INISHMAAN, or Middle Island, is divided by Gregory Sound, about li mile in width. Dun Conor, named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious oval shape, and, though terribly " restored," is a fine fort. Tlie story of Mailly, the murderer, should be learnt from a native. TeampuU Murry i (St. Mary's Church) is of 16th-century date. The saint Kenerg, wliose " bed " is here, was the brother of the lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Church, with an uncommon west door, may be dedicated.

    On South Island, the most interesting of several early ruins, in St. Cavan's Church, named after the brother of Kevin of Glendalough, and the disciple of Enda.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

25. Leenane: halfway station between Clifden and Westport

    Leenaun · townland · Galway

    Leenane is described as a halfway house between Clifden and Westport with bathing, salmon and trout fishing, and free sea-fishing. The landlord-proprietor Mr. M'Keown of the hotel is noted as personally contributing to local enterprise success.

    Read the passage

    Leenane is a half-way house between Clifden and Westport. It is in a particularly favourable position for excursions (see below). There is bathing in the lough close to the hotel. There is salmon and white trout fishing in Culfin River and certain loughs at 5s. a day ; brown trout free fishing in several rivers and loughs, and of course the sea-fishing is free. There is mixeil shooting on the bay. It is one of the sights of Leenane to see the fishermen draw in their nets full of struggling silver salmon along the shores in the mornings. Mr. M'Keown of the hotel is one of the well-known landlord-proprietors, not uncommon in Ireland, who by their personality go far to contribute to the success of their enterprises.

    The valley of the Erriflf river, which at Leenane is deepened and widened into the Greater Killery or "red flord," is of considerable interest to the geologist, who will doubtless have at hand the descriptions of Harkness and Hull. It is sufficient here to remind the general tourist that in this remarkable inlet, 12 miles in length, " the glacial phenomena are very striking," and the rocks are "scored with groovings pointing dowTi the valley, while masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore," and that, like the Estuary of the Shannon and Cork harbour, it was, during the Ice Age, a niuch shallower valley, and a " channel of fresh water." Old "Mountain terraces" may be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley, and along the road to Cong; and at the head of the harbour the lines of "river terraces" are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shoreroad are proofs of volcanic action.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Leenane, a halfway station between Clifden and Westport. The hotel was run by Mr. M'Keown, one of those Irish landlord-proprietors whose personality went far to contribute to the success of their enterprises. There was bathing in the lough close to the hotel, salmon and white trout fishing in the Culfin River and certain loughs at 5 shillings a day, and brown trout fishing free in several rivers and loughs. The sea-fishing was free too. It was one of the sights of Leenane to see fishermen draw in their nets full of struggling silver salmon along the shores in the mornings. The Erriff river valley widens here into the Greater Killery, a remarkable inlet 12 miles in length. The "glacial phenomena are very striking," with rocks "scored with groovings pointing down the valley" and masses of moraine matter with huge boulders strewn along the shore. During the Ice Age this was a much shallower valley, a channel of fresh water. Mountain terraces can be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley and along the road to Cong, and river terraces stand at the head of the harbour. Sheets of lava and ash along the south shore road are proofs of volcanic action.

26. Monuments in Limerick: O'Connell, Spring Rice, Sarsfield, Tait

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1857–1881

    Limerick contains several monuments: a statue of Daniel O'Connell in Richmond Place (1857), a monument to Spring Rice in the People's Park, a Clock-Tower honouring Alderman Tait at Glentworth Street (1867), and a statue of General Sarsfield behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral (1881).

    Read the passage

    In the People^s Park, south-west of the railway station, is a monument to Spring Rice — a lofty Ionic column surmounted by a statue. At the junction of Glentworth Street with Upper Baker Street there is a handsome Clock-Tower, erected in 1867 in honour of Alderman Tait. A statue of General Sarsfield was erected iu 1881 behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral.

    King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John for the defence of English Town, is situated at Thomond Bridge. It is one of the most important specimens of the old Norman fortresses now existing in the country, being still iu good preservation. Five massive towers are connected by high walls of great thickness and solidity. On the side facing the river the marks of shot and shell, made on the walls centuries ago during the different sieges, are plainly visible from Thomond Bridge. The interior of the castle is occupied by barracks, the buildings of which, overlooking the walls, are very little in harmony with the older structure.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Limerick, the city holds several monuments from this period. A statue of Daniel O'Connell stands in Richmond Place, dating from 1857. In the People's Park there is a monument to Spring Rice, a lofty Ionic column surmounted by a statue. At the junction of Glentworth Street with Upper Baker Street, a handsome Clock-Tower was erected in 1867 in honour of Alderman Tait. And behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral, a statue of General Sarsfield was put up in 1881.

27. Mullingar horse fair and fishing centre

    Mullingar · town · Westmeath

    Mullingar is a famous fishing centre with hotels, and a very large trade is carried on in horses, cattle, wool and butter. The November horse fair is attended by dealers from all parts of Europe.

    Read the passage

    A very large trade is carried on in horses, cattle, wool and butter. The horse fair in November is attended by dealers from all parts of Europe.

    Loughs Ennel (or Belvidere), Iron, Oioel, and Derevaragh, a few miles from the town, give sport from April to October, and a little further afield is Lough Shielin, which, on the authority of one well qualified to judge, is "the best in the division."

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 3

28. Sligo Roman Catholic Cathedral

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    The modern Roman Catholic Cathedral in Sligo is described as one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, Romanesque in character, with a carillon of chimes, a massive tower, and a symbolic winged angel over the east apse.

    Read the passage

    In another part of the town are St. John's Church, a fine stone building with an uncommon east window, and the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral. The splendid carillon of chimes of the Cathedkal will have been'heard before reaching it. This is one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, and Romanesque in character — a style uncommon in recent work. (Notice, in passing, the well-carved statue of St. Patrick on the wall of an outer building.) The tower containing the chimes is massive ; and the winged angel over the east apse is a remarkable symbolic figure — not of Peace. Owing to the lack of carved ornament within, the bare forms of this style are unrelieved, and the whole effect, though dignified, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and lofty triforium.

    Among other advantages of the neighbourhood, there is good sea-bathing, with accommodation, at Rosses Point, 4 or 5 miles away, and also a capital 18-hole golf course with a club-house.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Sligo town, you may hear the carillon of chimes before you see the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral, one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland. It is Romanesque in character, a style uncommon in recent work, with a massive tower holding the chimes. There is a well-carved statue of St. Patrick on the wall of an outer building, and over the east apse a winged angel described as "a remarkable symbolic figure — not of Peace." Inside, the lack of carved ornament leaves the bare forms unrelieved, so that the whole effect, though dignified, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and lofty triforium.

29. Spanish Point Armada wrecks

    near Spanish Point · promontory · Clare

    Spanish Point, about two miles south of Milltown Malbay, is where several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked along the Clare coast.

    Read the passage

    From Lehinch the railway goes southward to Milltown Malbay. About 2 miles south of this is Spanish Point, where several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked. After this the scenery calls for no remark. At Doonbeg the railway turns inland to Moyasta junction for Kilkee and Kikush (see p. 196).

    216

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Spanish Point, on the Clare coast, several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked. The point lies about 2 miles south of Milltown Malbay. Beyond that, the old guidebook is silent on what happened to the ships or their crews.

30. Tuam RC Cathedral statues and baldachino

    Tuam · town · Galway

    Outside the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Tuam are several statues, including one to Father MacHale by Farrell. Within is a baldachino of marble.

    Read the passage

    Outside the Roman Catholic Cathedral, at the far end of the town, are several statues, iueludiug one to Father MacHale, by Farrell. Within is a baldachino of marble.

    After Tuam we go on to Claremorris, a junction with the Midland Great Western line to Westport, and from thence there is nothing to remark on till Collooney, 7 miles south of Sligo, where we join the rails of the other company to run into the terminus, see p. 246.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 21

31. Turf-laden boats at Achill Sound

    Achill Sound · town · Mayo

    In the height of peat-cutting season in May, a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats could be seen going up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound, a striking local spectacle.

    Read the passage

    energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the interior of Ireland, As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic state of poverty, a fact sufficiently evident from a glance at the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in other parts of the country, the standard of living has improved. Relief work in the shape of road-making is given in the winter. The lace industry has grown, the Carrickmacross lace-making being the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour is in demand, especially is this the case in regard to the potato crops in Dumfries, " tatie coppers," as they are called, going over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, therefore a large proportion of the time of the natives is taken up in "herding" the stock. Peat-preserving also takes up many hours of labour, as an old dame said, " It's the wan blessing we have, but what with the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it ! " In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound.

    The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of the fact of its almost treeless condition, and the heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rockfringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Achill Sound in Mayo, you're on ground where the whole economy once turned on turf. In May, at the height of peat-cutting, a fleet of as many as 80 turf-laden boats would go up with the flooding tide here. The people lived in huts of rough cobbles and turf, and spent long hours cutting, spreading, stacking and carrying the peat — as one old woman put it, "It's the wan blessing we have, but there's a deal of work to it." Many left for England and Scotland in season, working the potato crops in Dumfries they called "tatie coppers," while at home the Carrickmacross lace industry had become the staple of many a household. The land had no fences and few walls, so herding stock took up much of the day, and relief road-making was given in winter.

32. Norman monastery on Canon Island in Lough Fergus

    Canon Island · townland · Clare

    In the estuary of the Fergus, called Lough Fergus, a very archipelago of islands, Canon Island contains the ruins of an ancient Norman monastery, visible from the Shannon steamer route.

    Read the passage

    On the Clare side, nearly opposite Lord Emly's demesne, are the extensive woods of Cratloekeel, covering the mountain's side. Farther on we pass Dromore Castle, the magnificent residence of Lord Limerick, and Beagh Castle, and Horse Rock Lighthouse, the latter a prominent object in the middle of the river. On the Clare side (right), before reaching Foynes. we pass the estuary of the Fergus, called Lough Fergus. This is a very archipelago ; and on Canon Island is an ancient Norman monastery. Behind Beeves Lighthouse (left), in mid-stream, is the mouth of the Deel river, on which is —

    AsKEATON (railway station), remarkable for its ancient buildings. Its Nonnan castle of the Desmonds ; Knights Templars' Church ; and Franciscan Abbey (1419), with uncommon cloisters, are all worth visiting.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 14

33. Abbey of Boyle: Cistercian foundation 1150-1200

    Boyle · town · Roscommon · 1150–1200

    The Abbey of Boyle is a Cistercian foundation built between 1150 and 1200, exhibiting various periods of early architecture. The church retains its good condition with Norman and Early Pointed arches, a large central tower, kitchen and outbuildings, and elaborately carved details.

    Read the passage

    The Abbey of Boyle, on the river (north), is of a Cistercian foundation, built between 1150 and 1200. It is of considerable interest owing to the various periods of early arcliitecture it exhibits, the good condition of the church, the kitchen and other outbuildings, and the unusual elaboration of some of the carvings. Of the Church the oldest part is the south side of the Nave, pierced by Norman arches ; opposite are Early Pointed arches of the same character as the chancel arch ; it has a large central tower. About 2 miles away (north-east) is Lough Key.

    Lough Key is a small lake, but excels many of greater extent in this district in the woods which adorn its banks. There are several islands, the most notable being Trinity Island, with the ruins of a religious house ; and Castle Island, with a castle of the M'Diarniids, the walls of whicli are still standing. Skirting the lake, and almost surrounding it, is Rockingham, the beautiful demesne of Stall'ord King-Harman. There is good

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 48

34. Athlone antiquities removed to Dublin Museum

    Athlone · town · Westmeath

    Several archaeological finds from Athlone, including the finest stone battle-axe and gold lunulae in the National Museum, were removed to Dublin.

    Read the passage

    Dublin Museum has swallowed up several "finds" belonging properly to Athlone, chief among them the finest stone battleaxe in the Museum, and the gold "lunulae " (or "minn "), also from this town.

    The chief feature of the town is its magnificent position in regard to the river and lakes, which gives first-rate opportunity to the angler, and makes the air of unusual freshness. It stands just at the point where the river bursts through the range of sandhills (never rising higher than 600 or 700 feet), which runs from the Green Hills near Dublin to the shores of Galway Bay. The Prince of Wales is an old-fashioned hostelry of a comfortable sort, and stands well facing the tower of the Church, close by the gateway leading to the Deanery grounds.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Athlone, the town holds a quiet history of things taken elsewhere. Several finds from here were carried off to the Dublin Museum, including the finest stone battle axe in that collection and the gold lunulae, also called minn, that came from this town. What remains is the town itself, set where the river breaks through a low range of sandhills running from the Green Hills near Dublin to Galway Bay, with lakes and water that drew anglers then as now.

35. Ballina town and its cottages

    Ballina · townland · Mayo

    Ballina's picturesque entrance features a long row of one-story thatched cottages in various shades of colour-wash, though corrugated iron is replacing thatch. The town has a fine salmon river, two stone bridges, a modern Roman Catholic cathedral, and a college visible from the railway.

    Read the passage

    Ballina has rather a picturesque entrance, for near the station is a long row of one-story, thatched cottages, adorned with all shades of colour-wash. Corrugated iron is unfortunately superseding thatch. The town itself is uninteresting, but has the advantage of some better shops than are usually found in an Irish town of this size. It has also a fine salmon river, two good stone bridges, a modern Roman Catholic Cathedral and a college, the latter a conspicuous object from the railway on the wayito Killala. The Moy Fishery Company owns the fishing in the tidal water, but angling in the fresh water above the town is good, and tickets can be got at 7s. 6d. and 10s. a day from Mr. J. C. Wilson, Ballina.

    There is salmon and trout fishing on Loch Conn (several hotels at Crossmoliua), about 6 miles from Ballina. The bay is famous as the rendezvous of the French invaders in 1798. The garrison of Killala, only forty men, was surprised by the French general, Humbert, who landed with a thousand men. Next day a detachment of the French were driven in by an English piquet, who, advancing too far, were ambuscaded, and su9"ered considerable loss. Towards night the French advancing, entered Ballina, and drove out the loyalists, who retreated to Foxford. The enemy retained possession for three weeks, when they were attacked by General Trench, and ultimately driven back to their ships.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 44

36. Breffny Castle and Fern Glen, Lough Gill

    near Lough Gill · lake or lakes · Kerry

    On the north shore of Lough Gill, Breffny Castle is the first object of interest, near which lies the Fern Glen, recommended for exploration. The route then passes through O'Rourke's 'smiling valley' toward Dromahair.

    Read the passage

    The principal excursion from Sligo is that to Lough Gill or Gilly, as it is sometimes called. This may be done by row-boat (hire 5s. to head of lough) ; or, in summer by motor-boat leaving Sligo daily at 3 p.m., charge Is. 6d. This goes to Dromohair, and allows 2 hours there before return. The round of the lough may be made by road. In this case it is best to start on the north side. After leaving the town in a direct line with the Victoria Bridge, keep to the right at all turns after the first. The first leads to the desmesne of Uazleicoocl situated at the north-west end of tlie lough. Permission may sometimes bo obtained to pass through it. The main road is good, but for 3^ miles nothing is seen of the lough, until, on climbing a hill, it is discovered lying below. Its many islands and sloping, wooded shores give it a resemblance to Killarney. The first object of interest on the north shore is Breffny Castle, near which is the Fern Glen, which should be explored if time allows. Then pass on through O'Rourke's " smiling valley" to

    248 WESTPORT TO SLIGO. AND THENCE TO DUBLIN

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead on the north shore of Lough Gill, the first thing of note is Breffny Castle, and near it lies the Fern Glen, well worth exploring if you have time. The guide calls the wooded shores and many islands of the lough a resemblance to Killarney. Beyond the castle you pass through what the book calls O'Rourke's "smiling valley" on the way toward Dromahair.

37. Clifden Workhouse and Cathedral out of proportion

    Clifden · town · Galway

    The small town of Clifden is dominated by a monster Workhouse and a huge Roman Catholic Cathedral with a handsome spire. Both buildings are noted as being out of all proportion to the local population.

    Read the passage

    The little town is overwhelmed both by the monster Workhouse and the huge Roman Catholic Cathedrah The latter has indeed a handsome spire ; but both these buildings are out of all proportion to the population here.

    At the head of the two bays of Ardbear and Mannin, south of Clifden, are the well-known oyster beds belonging to Mr. Corless of Dublin.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 30

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clifden in Galway, you will see two buildings that simply overwhelm this little town. The workhouse is enormous, and the Roman Catholic cathedral has a handsome spire, but both are quite out of proportion to the population here. South of Clifden, the bays of Ardbear and Mannin hold oyster beds belonging to Mr. Corless of Dublin.

38. Ennis described as prosperous and cheerful town

    Ennis · town · Clare

    Ennis is described as one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, clean with good houses and fair shops, wearing more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. Its people are of unusually brisk and business-like character.

    Read the passage

    Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    204 LIMERICK TO SLIGO

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 20

39. Ginckell's House at North Gate Street

    Athlone · town · Westmeath · 1691

    At the corner of North Gate Street in Athlone stands Ginckell's House, where the Dutch general Ginckell is said to have lived during the 1691 siege of the town.

    Read the passage

    Tlie walls, built about 300 years ago, have mostly disappeared, but besides the castle fort several historic buildings remain. There is Ginckell's House, at the corner of North gate Street, in which it is said the Dutchman — the famous general " who

    180 DUBLIN TO GALWAY

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Athlone, there is Ginkel's House on North Gate Street. The walls built about 300 years ago have mostly disappeared, but this building remains. It is said the Dutch general who captured Athlone in 1691 lived here during the siege.

40. Glacial phenomena of Killary Harbour

    Killary Harbour · estuary · Galway

    The Erriff river valley, deepened into the Greater Killery or 'red fjord,' displays striking glacial phenomena over its 12-mile length, including grooved rocks and moraine deposits with huge boulders along the shore.

    Read the passage

    The valley of the Erriflf river, which at Leenane is deepened and widened into the Greater Killery or "red flord," is of considerable interest to the geologist, who will doubtless have at hand the descriptions of Harkness and Hull. It is sufficient here to remind the general tourist that in this remarkable inlet, 12 miles in length, " the glacial phenomena are very striking," and the rocks are "scored with groovings pointing dowTi the valley, while masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore," and that, like the Estuary of the Shannon and Cork harbour, it was, during the Ice Age, a niuch shallower valley, and a " channel of fresh water." Old "Mountain terraces" may be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley, and along the road to Cong; and at the head of the harbour the lines of "river terraces" are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shoreroad are proofs of volcanic action.

    Of the two favourite excursions that to Kylemore, if not already included in the journey from the west, is the most popular (see p. 226).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel along Killary Harbour, you are passing through what the guide calls the Greater Killery or "red fjord," where the Erriff river valley was deepened and widened into a 12-mile inlet. The glacial phenomena here are very striking. The rocks are scored with groovings pointing down the valley, and masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore. During the Ice Age this was a much shallower valley and a "channel of fresh water." Old mountain terraces can be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley and along the road to Cong, and at the head of the harbour the lines of river terraces are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shore road are proofs of volcanic action in this landscape.

41. Killala Round Tower and coronation hill of Inerughy princes

    Killala · town · Mayo

    Killala has a fine and complete Round Tower rising from among the houses. Nearby is a hill where the ancient princes of Inerughy and Tyrawley were crowned. The town also played a part in the 1798 disturbances.

    Read the passage

    between Ballina and Killala, but is to it as a bow to its string. Eillala (small hotel) played a part in the disturbances of 1798. The principal object of interest is the very fine and complete Round Tower which rises from the midst of the houses. The bishop's palace forms part of the workhouse. In the immediate neighbourhood of the town is the hill where the ancient princes of Inerughy and Tyrawley were crowned. Northwest from this a road of 10 miles leads to Balhjcastle {Hotel), from which can be reached

    Downpatrick Head, 9 miles north of Killala, a succession of magnificent cliffs, well worthy of a visit. In ascending the Head visitors are startled by coming suddenly on a great chasm, caused by the surface of the hill having fallen in. Cautiously approaching this abyss, and looking down, the ocean is seen rolling in at a depth of 2000 feet, through a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Killala now. The town has a very fine and complete Round Tower rising from the midst of the houses, its principal object of interest. In the immediate neighbourhood is the hill where the ancient princes of Inerughy and Tyrawley were crowned. Killala also played a part in the disturbances of 1798.

42. Mweelrea as watch-tower guarding Killery Harbour

    near Mweelrea · mountain or mountain range · Mayo

    Mweelrea, at 2688 feet, is described as a noble mountain standing like a great watch-tower guarding the entrance to Killery Harbour. The Upper Silurian grits and conglomerates rise to their highest point in the west of Ireland at this summit.

    Read the passage

    In MwEELBEA (2688 feet), the noble mountain "which stands like a great watch-tower guarding the entrance to Killery Harbour," the Upper Silurian grits and conglomerates rise to their highest point in the west of Ireland. It is well worth ascending for the splendid views obtained : the hotel boatman is a good authority on the most convenient place for a start.

    The most interesting route to Westport, 31^ miles, that ma Louisburgh, can be followed through Aasleagh {good cycliny), or met by the hotel ferry at a point IJ mile east of Bundorragh Quay. This route was at first followed by the Railway motor cars, but latterly they have taken the shorter and much less interesting way du-ect to "Westport on account of the better surface.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

43. Newtown-Pery founded by Sexton Pery in 1769

    Newtown Pery · population centre · Limerick · 1769

    The prosperity of Limerick dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769. The district is laid out with regular straight streets crossing at right angles, with George's Street (renamed O'Connell Street) containing the principal shops.

    Read the passage

    The portion on "King's island" called English Town was founded in the reign of King John by William do Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifications were extended to Irish Town south of it. The city in 1651 was taken by General Ireton. William III.'s siege of 1690, owing chiefly to Sarsfield's energetic defence, was raised ; but 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sar.sfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way in which the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769.

    Bridges. — English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Mathow [Killarney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occupying the site of a bi'idge of great antiquity. Thomond Bridge, also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects English town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the bridge stands the "Treaty Stone" mentioned above.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Newtown Pery, the district that gave Limerick its prosperity. Sexton Pery founded it in 1769, and from that date the city's fortunes turned. The streets were laid out in a regular grid, straight lines crossing at right angles. The principal shops stood along George's Street, which has since been renamed O'Connell Street. Before Newtown Pery, the older city centred on King's Island, where William de Burgo built a castle under King John. Those earlier centuries brought sieges and broken promises. In 1690, William the Third's siege was raised by Sarsfield's defence, but 13 months later Ginckell broke through, and Sarsfield signed the treaty on the stone that still stands by Thomond Bridge. The English side of that bargain was not kept, and Limerick became known as the City of the Violated Treaty. It was Newtown Pery, though, that began the prosperity you see around you.

44. University College Galway on Oughterard Road

    Galway · city · Galway

    University College stands close to the town on the Oughterard Road, a fine grey limestone building with well-kept grounds. Its belfry is a neat miniature of Tom Tower at Christ Church, Oxford, and is unique in Ireland.

    Read the passage

    University College is close to the town on the Oughterard Road. It is a fine grey limestone building standing in wellkept grounds. Museums are attached to the principal medical departments, and there is a large medical library. The belfry is a neat miniature of " Tom " Tower in Christ Church, Oxford, and unique in Ireland. The Diocesan College is built of the same stone, and can be seen on the way to Salthill.

    The Claddagh (Irish, Cladach, the sea-shore or strand) is the name given to that part of Galway adjoining the harbour and inliabited chiefly by fishermen. Formerly they were a distinct community, not intermarrying with the townfolk and governed by their own magistrate or mayor, called the "King of the Claddagh,'' but they are now under municipal rule.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway on the Oughterard Road, you come near University College, a fine grey limestone building standing in well-kept grounds. Museums are attached to its principal medical departments, and there is a large medical library. The belfry is a neat miniature of "Tom" Tower in Christ Church, Oxford, and is unique in Ireland.

45. Dooney Rock viewpoint, Lough Gill

    near Lough Gill · lake or lakes · Kerry

    A path through the woods leads to Dooney Rock, whence the most beautiful view of Lough Gill is obtained, with richly wooded isles, headlands, and luxuriant masses of beech and oak.

    Read the passage

    Dromohair. This means a detour from the lake, as there is no road close to the south side for some miles. At Dromohair {Hotel: (I.A.C., C) Abbey), there are O'Eourke's Castle, with walls of prodigious thickness, and St. Munchin's Abbey to be seen. From here the road wends back to the lough through a gorge, and on reaching it careful watch should be kept for a path on the right, leading through the woods to the Dooney Rock, whence the most beautiful view of the lough is obtained. The richly wooded isles and headlands, the luxuriant masses of beech and oak, give a character all its own to this charming scene. Not far from this, near a school, there is to be found the most interesting sight of all, Toher ISTAlt, a Druid altar, older than history, on which undoubtedly at one time human sacrifices were offered. The ferns growing out of the rock recesses, the constant flow of ice-cold water in the well, and the mysterious depths all add to a weird and almost uncanny scene of beauty and fascination. Total distance for the round and back to Sligo, 23 miles. As to fishing, salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful in the lough, and permission may be obtained by anglers from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

    The fishing on the other Sligo beauty spot, Glencar, is subject to more restriction. Application as above, when terms can be ascertained.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Gill is coming up along the road here, and it is one of the loveliest stretches of water in the west of Ireland. A path leads through the woods to Dooney Rock, where the finest view of the lough opens out before you. The isles and headlands are richly wooded, and masses of beech and oak give the whole scene a character all its own. Before reaching the lough the road passes through Dromohair, where O'Rourke's Castle has walls of prodigious thickness and St. Munchin's Abbey stands nearby. Not far from Dooney Rock, near a school, there is a Druid altar older than history, with ferns growing from its rock recesses and ice-cold water flowing in a well beside it. Salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful in the lough for anglers who obtain permission.

46. Kilkee Cave and its mineral stalactites

    Kilkee · town · Clare

    The Cave of Kilkee, about two miles from the town, is best visited by boat. Its arched entrance is about 60 feet high, with stalactites hanging from the roof and rich metallic tinges from copper, iron, and other minerals in the water. The cave gradually diminishes in height as one proceeds inward.

    Read the passage

    The Cave of Kilkee is about 2 miles from the town, and is best visited by boat from the harbour, a fine view being in this way obtained of the cliff scenery along the shore. The arched entrance to the cave is about 60 feet in height. Our attention is at once attracted by the numerous jutting rocks, the stalactites depending from the roof, and the " variety of rich metallic tinges from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water." As we proceed into the cave it gradually diminishes in height.

    The walks along the coast are of great interest, especially southwards. The dark rocks of chipping flakes, hollowed beneath and broken into fantastic shapes by the waves, form a grand setting to the luminous blues, greens, and snowy foam of the Atlantic breakers.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Kilkee in Clare, there's a cave about 2 miles from the town that's best reached by boat from the harbour. The arched entrance stands about 60 feet high, with stalactites hanging from the roof and what the old guide calls a "variety of rich metallic tinges from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water." As you go deeper inside, the cave gradually narrows in height. The boat trip there also gives a fine view of the cliff scenery along the shore, and the walks southward along the coast are worth it too, where dark rocks broken into fantastic shapes by the waves meet the blues and greens of the Atlantic breakers.

47. Annaghdown Castle and Abbey in ruins

    Annaghdown · townland · Galway

    Seen from Lough Corrib, both Annaghdown Castle and its adjacent abbey stand in ruins on the right shore. The castle was one of the Clanricarde foundations.

    Read the passage

    At 5 miles we pass on the left the Inchacommaun islands, and shortly afterwards on our right Rabbit Island, where Lord Headley frequently camps. Further on, on the right, we see Annaghdown Castle and Abbey, both in ruins.

    At Killabeg, Iwhere there is a ferry, tea can be got at a cottage i mile from the pier. 3 miles off is Headford [Hotel : Macormack's), a clean and prosperous town, about 1 mile from which, picturesquely situated on the Owcnduff, is Ross Abbey, in remarkably fine preservation, and containing a number of old monuments. To the north of the abbey is the old castle of Moyne.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 41

48. St. John's Church, Sligo

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    St. John's Church in Sligo is described as a fine stone building distinguished by its uncommon east window. It stands in another part of the town from the Dominican Friary.

    Read the passage

    In another part of the town are St. John's Church, a fine stone building with an uncommon east window, and the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral. The splendid carillon of chimes of the Cathedkal will have been'heard before reaching it. This is one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, and Romanesque in character — a style uncommon in recent work. (Notice, in passing, the well-carved statue of St. Patrick on the wall of an outer building.) The tower containing the chimes is massive ; and the winged angel over the east apse is a remarkable symbolic figure — not of Peace. Owing to the lack of carved ornament within, the bare forms of this style are unrelieved, and the whole effect, though dignified, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and lofty triforium.

    Among other advantages of the neighbourhood, there is good sea-bathing, with accommodation, at Rosses Point, 4 or 5 miles away, and also a capital 18-hole golf course with a club-house.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Sligo, St. John's Church sits in another part of the town from the Dominican Friary. It is a fine stone building, noted for its uncommon east window. Close by stands the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral, one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, Romanesque in character — a style uncommon in recent work. Its massive tower holds a splendid carillon of chimes you may have already heard, and over the east apse is a winged angel described as a remarkable symbolic figure, not of Peace. The whole effect inside, though dignified, is heavy, with the bare forms of the style unrelieved by carved ornament.

49. Aasleagh Lodge Waterfall near Leenane

    near Aasleagh · waterfall · Mayo

    Aasleagh is a hamlet at the head of the Killery, just over 2 miles from Leenane. Aasleagh Lodge Waterfall is noted as a local 'lion' or notable sight for visitors.

    Read the passage

    To AA.SLEAGH, the hamlet at the head of tlie Killery, it is a little over 2 miles, and Aasleagh Lodge Waterfall is a local "lion." Five miles higher up the valley, along the direct Westport lioad, is

    Ekriff Bridge. "A beautiful salmon river," says Hi- Regan of the Errilf ; it is a stream which forms a good centre for the fisherman, and is fed by the Owenduif stream aud the Tanyard Lough, in which the latter rises, and by the Gleudawaugh, and other higher rivers. Southwards, the Partry Mountains supply fisliing waters in Lough Nafooey and the Upper Aille, well known to worm-baiters.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Aasleagh, there's a waterfall marked as a local "lion" — meaning a noted sight for visitors. Aasleagh itself is a hamlet at the head of the Killery, a little over 2 miles from Leenane. The guidebook doesn't say much more about the waterfall than that, so enjoy it for what it is.

50. Banagher bridge, barracks and military fortifications

    Banagher · townland · Galway · 1843

    Banagher's river crossing is a fine stone bridge of seven arches completed in 1843, protected by two towers and a battery, with large barracks connected to it. A well-known distillery stands about a mile from the town.

    Read the passage

    Banagher {Hotels : M'Intyre's ; (C.) Miss Miller's (Temp.)) is a market town on the left bank of the river, and the railway terminus of a branch line from Clara. The river is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, which is protected by two towers and a battery : connected with it there are large barracks. About a mile from the town is the well-known Banagher distillery. In the vicinity are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans, the last representative of whom died a little more thau half a century ago. He has been regarded as the " last Irish chief."

    At Banagher those who have come by rail from Dublin meet the Shannon steamer to go south. Northward the river winds away 32 miles to Athlone, 8^ miles short of which are the celebrated ruins at Clonmacnois (see p. 182) but there is no means of traversing this part of the Shannon except by private enterprise.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 19

51. Carton Demesne of the Duke of Leinster

    Maynooth · town · Kildare

    At the end of Maynooth's main street lies the entrance to Carton, the beautiful demesne of the Duke of Leinster, open to the public on week-days. This landscaped estate provided public access to aristocratic parkland in the early twentieth century.

    Read the passage

    Maynooth {Hotel: Leinster Arms), the seat of the wellknown Roman Catholic College, is 15 m. from Dublin. The village consists chiefly of one tolerably wide street, at the end of which is the entrance to Carton, the beautiful demesne of the Duke of Leinster, open to the public on week-days ; at the other end is the Royal College of St. Patrick.

    The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, extended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin. It has accommodation for over 500 students. The cloister is a fine specimen of Early English. The hall is a spacious and beautiful apartment, and there is a large library. The college was instituted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to provide education for candidates for the priesthood in the Roman Catholic Chnrch, on account of the difficulty, during the continental wars, of Irish students frequenting the foreign universities. More than half the Roman Catholic clergy of Ireland now receive their education at it. Formerly it obtained an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000 ; but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 this was commuted by the payment of a capital sum fourteen times its amount. It is supported also by private donations and bequests, in addition to the entrance fees of the students.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 3

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Maynooth, the village runs along one tolerably wide street, and at the far end of it lies the entrance to Carton, the beautiful demesne of the Duke of Leinster, open to the public on week-days. At the other end of the same street stands the Royal College of St. Patrick, a fine structure with two quadrangles, extended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin, with accommodation for over 500 students. The Irish Parliament instituted the college in 1795 to train candidates for the priesthood in the Roman Catholic Church, because the continental wars had made it difficult for Irish students to attend foreign universities. More than half the Roman Catholic clergy of Ireland now receive their education there. The college formerly drew an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000, but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 this was commuted by a capital payment fourteen times that amount. It is also supported by private donations and bequests, along with the entrance fees of the students.

52. Enda's Chapel at Killrany survives but tomb and church gone

    Kilronan · village · Galway

    At Killrany, Enda's Chapel remains standing, but his tomb and his great church have been lost. The site was part of a larger monastic settlement of which only fragments survive.

    Read the passage

    From the Steamer Pier we turn left along the bay to Killrany, where of several churches only two now remain, with the lower part only of the Round Tower. Four churches and the upper part of the Tower were destroyed by Gromwellian soldiers to build up the adjoining Arkin Castle. " Enda's Chapel " remains, but his tomb, as his great church, have gone. Here was the

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 24

53. Lough Conn and Nephin Mountain

    near Lough Conn · lake or lakes · Mayo

    Lough Conn is a large lake nearly nine miles long, with the great Nephin Mountain rising on its west side to 2,646 feet. A reverse flow occasionally occurs from the lower lake (Cullin) into the upper (Conn), despite the lake being about 40 feet above sea level with no tidal communication.

    Read the passage

    The first station after Manulla is Foxford [Hotel : Coghlan's), on Lough Cullin, where, as on the Moy, there is excellent fishing. Loughs Cullin and Conn are joined by a narrow strait, crossed by a pontoon bridge. Leaving Foxford, a fine view is obtained of Lougli Conn, a large sheet of water, being nearly 9 miles in length by about 1 to 3 in width. On the west side of it rises the great Nephin Mountain, with a finely-shaped conical summit, 2646 feet above the sea-level. It is a singular fact that there is occasionally a reverse flow of the Lower Lake, usually called Lough Cullin, into the upper, or Lough Conn proper. The lake is situated about 40 feet above the sea, and can have no tide communication with it. The banks are in many parts of fine sand, which indicates the high-water line. The shores of the Lower Lake, on the west side, abound in little bays and creeks, and show some bold outlines.

    Ballina (pron. Bal-e-ndr ; Hotels: (C.) Imperial; Central; (I.A.C.) Moy ; all commercial. For cars see pink pages).

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 44

54. Lough Key islands and Rockingham demesne

    near Lough Key · lake or lakes · Roscommon

    Lough Key is a small lake noted for woods adorning its banks. Trinity Island has ruins of a religious house, and Castle Island retains the standing walls of a M'Diarmid castle. Rockingham, the demesne of Stafford King-Harman, skirts and almost surrounds the lake.

    Read the passage

    Lough Key is a small lake, but excels many of greater extent in this district in the woods which adorn its banks. There are several islands, the most notable being Trinity Island, with the ruins of a religious house ; and Castle Island, with a castle of the M'Diarniids, the walls of whicli are still standing. Skirting the lake, and almost surrounding it, is Rockingham, the beautiful demesne of Stall'ord King-Harman. There is good

    r

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 48

55. Menlough Castle on the road to Connemara

    near Menlo · street · Galway

    Menlough Castle is noted as one of the few landmarks visible along the railway line leaving Galway for Connemara, situated between the wooded hills and the flat-banked river Corrib amid miles of monotony.

    Read the passage

    Leaving the large station of Galway, we notice one of the chief features of the town, the curious and top-heavy tower of the R.C. Church, bristling with pinnacles. Tlien after backing inland a short way, we make for the wilds of Connemara across the flat-banked river Corrib. As the line steers midway between that river and, on the left side, the thickly wooded hills, Menlough Castle (see p. 236) with perhaps a straggling cow or a sunburnt turf-cutter, are tlie only varieties along some miles of monotony.

    Connemara is the western section of County Galway, cut oflf on the east and north by Lough Corrib, Lough Mask, and Killery Harbour, and bounded on the west by the sea. It has many and varied attractions. It possesses, perhaps, few treasures for the archaeologist, and perchance the golfer may too often find the coffee-room carpet his only putting-green, but the walker no less than the artist who explores the beauties of Ballynahinch, the Killery, and the coast, will find some of the finest scenes in Erin ; the angler in a happy season, who whips

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Menlo stands Menlough Castle, one of the few landmarks breaking the miles of monotony along this route. The railway line from Galway runs midway between the flat-banked river Corrib and the thickly wooded hills, and the castle is about the only variety you will see, with perhaps a straggling cow or a sunburnt turf-cutter for company.

56. Rosses Point bathing and golf

    Rosses Point · town · Sligo

    Rosses Point, about four to five miles from Sligo, offered good sea-bathing with accommodation and a capital 18-hole golf course with a club-house.

    Read the passage

    Among other advantages of the neighbourhood, there is good sea-bathing, with accommodation, at Rosses Point, 4 or 5 miles away, and also a capital 18-hole golf course with a club-house.

    The principal excursion from Sligo is that to Lough Gill or Gilly, as it is sometimes called. This may be done by row-boat (hire 5s. to head of lough) ; or, in summer by motor-boat leaving Sligo daily at 3 p.m., charge Is. 6d. This goes to Dromohair, and allows 2 hours there before return. The round of the lough may be made by road. In this case it is best to start on the north side. After leaving the town in a direct line with the Victoria Bridge, keep to the right at all turns after the first. The first leads to the desmesne of Uazleicoocl situated at the north-west end of tlie lough. Permission may sometimes bo obtained to pass through it. The main road is good, but for 3^ miles nothing is seen of the lough, until, on climbing a hill, it is discovered lying below. Its many islands and sloping, wooded shores give it a resemblance to Killarney. The first object of interest on the north shore is Breffny Castle, near which is the Fern Glen, which should be explored if time allows. Then pass on through O'Rourke's " smiling valley" to

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Rosses Point, a few miles from Sligo, this was a spot known for good sea-bathing with accommodation and a fine 18-hole golf course with its own club-house. The guide calls the golf course capital, so it was well regarded in its day.

57. Round Towers at Clonmacnois

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 900–1100

    Two round towers stand at Clonmacnois: O'Ruark's great tower near the west wall, distinguished by its capless top, and a smaller one to the north-east. Both may date from the 10th or 11th century and were primarily belfries, though occasionally used as emergency treasure-houses.

    Read the passage

    Near the west wall, and outside it is O'Ruark's, or the great Round Tower, distinguished by its capless top, and a late specimen of its kind. This and the smaller one to the northeast may have been erected in the 10th or 11th century. If w^e accept the now most popular theory of these towers, — that.

    184 DUBLIN TO GALAVAY

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 6

58. St. Peter's Abbey on the Connaught side

    Athlone · town · Westmeath

    On the Connaught side of the river in Athlone once stood the abbey of St. Peter. The abbey is now only remembered by its name surviving in St. Peter's Port.

    Read the passage

    On the Connaught side of the river, once stood tlie abbey of St. Peter — now only remembered by its name, which survives in St. Peter's Port.

    Dublin Museum has swallowed up several "finds" belonging properly to Athlone, chief among them the finest stone battleaxe in the Museum, and the gold "lunulae " (or "minn "), also from this town.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on the Connaught side of the river, once stood the abbey of St. Peter. Nothing remains of it now, only the name surviving in St. Peter's Port. A few finds from Athlone ended up in Dublin Museum, among them the finest stone battle axe in the museum and gold lunulae from this town.

59. Teampull Murry and Kenanagh Church on Inishmaan

    Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway · 1500–1600

    Teampull Murry (St. Mary's Church) on Inishmaan dates from the 16th century. The saint Kenerg, whose bed is here, was the brother of the lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Church with an uncommon west door may be dedicated.

    Read the passage

    INISHMAAN, or Middle Island, is divided by Gregory Sound, about li mile in width. Dun Conor, named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious oval shape, and, though terribly " restored," is a fine fort. Tlie story of Mailly, the murderer, should be learnt from a native. TeampuU Murry i (St. Mary's Church) is of 16th-century date. The saint Kenerg, wliose " bed " is here, was the brother of the lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Church, with an uncommon west door, may be dedicated.

    On South Island, the most interesting of several early ruins, in St. Cavan's Church, named after the brother of Kevin of Glendalough, and the disciple of Enda.

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 25

60. Temple Kieran and O'Kelly Church at Clonmacnois

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 1167

    Behind the Cathedral stands Temple Kieran, assigned a Norman date of 1167. The O'Kelly Church, close to the end of the Cathedral, is considered coeval with Temple Kieran.

    Read the passage

    Behind the Cathedral is Temple Kieran, to which authorities assign the Norman date of 1167. According to the same authorities the O'Kclly Church close to tlie end of the Cathedral is coeval with it.

    Near the north wall is Temple Conor, now the Protestant Church, where service is held once a year. Temple Fhujhin (Finan), of tlie late Norman period, appears to have been built into the Round Tower adjoining it, the difficulty of proving wliich stood lure first is a nut hard in the cracking. The door of this — M'Carthy's — Tower is, like that of the High Scattery

    Internet Archive blacksguidetogal00adam, Chapter 6