The Blackwater in Munster;

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Castle Magner and Richard Magner's Cromwell deception

   Castlemagner · townland · Cork · 1641–1650

   Castle Magner, about two miles from Clonmeen, belonged to Richard Magner during the 1641 insurrection. When Magner visited Cromwell at Clonmel, Cromwell sent him with a letter to Colonel Phair at Cork ordering 'execute the bearer'; Magner read it, then tricked a rival officer into delivering it instead, and escaped.

   Read the passage

   About two miles from Clonmeen is Castle Magner, which, though not immediately on the river Blackwater, has an anecdote related of one of its lords too good to be omitted here. During the insurrection, 1641, this castle belonged to Richard Magner, agent for the Irish in Orrery and Kilmore. When Cromwell was at Clonmell he went to pay his court to him, but being represented as a very troublesome person, and one who had been very active during the war, Cromwell resolved he should not be so in future, and sent him with a letter to Colonel Phair, governor of Cork, couched in terms sufficiently laconic, but if " short, not sweet," merely " execute the bearer? Magner, who it appears had no exalted idea of the Protector's friendship from his interview, opened the letter, which no doubt startled him a trifle. He did not linger long before he formed a little plan of his own, and carefully sealing up the dreaded missive, instead of proceeding to Cork turned off to Mallow, and handed it to the officer in command there, telling him Cromwell had ordered him to carry it to Colonel Phair. This officer had often preyed on Magner's land, for which he thus sought to be revenged. This officer, proud of the trust, and suspecting nothing, went with the letter, which greatly amazed the governor, who knew him to be a most excellent soldier, and immediately sent an express to Cromwell for further orders. Cromwell, being extremely chagrined to be so served, sent orders to give the officer his liberty and to apprehend Magner, who used the interval in effecting his escape.*

   Before leaving Clonmeen we must not omit to mention the famous robber, Daniel the Outlaw, who formerly had his lair in the cave of Gurtmore, and the hapless fate of the companion who softened the horrors of the rocky dwelling — the unfortunate, lovely Margaret Kelly. Daniel O'Keeffe the Outlaw, was a fohWer of O'Keeffe, lord of this district. Having accidentally slain M'Donough, the chieftain of Duhallow, he was obliged to retire into these wild, unfrequented districts

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 100

2. The Legend of Mealane and the Aundalough

   Banteer · town · Cork

   At M'Auliffe's Castle near the Aundalough, the fair heiress Mealane vanished on her wedding day to O'Herlahy, chief of Carrigduve. Carried by supernatural forces toward a rock that opened to receive her, she was never seen again, though nightly wanderers report white drapery fluttering about Mealane's Rock.

   Read the passage

   Mealane walked forth, but the evening wind whistled gently down the glen like the sighing of unseen spirits, and yet she came not back. The clergyman who was to perform the ceremony arrived, and the bridegroom was waiting — but no bride. A peasant who had just returned from the opposite side of the Aundaluagh, said he saw a white figure near a large tree ; but when he spoke he received no answer, and went on his way wondering. O'Herlahy buckled on his trusty armour, and was resolved to win his bride or perish. He went forth alone ; the night was still and lonely. Every rock, tree, hill, and glen was streaming with the bright light which beamed from the full moon ; the heavens were clear- and studded with myriads of glittering stars, which twinkled in the intensity of blue sky. O'Herlahy paused on the bank of the Aundaluagh, and gazed on a panorama of beauty ; yet his heart was ill at ease for the loss of his beloved, and the tears came to his eyes as turning round he looked on the castle of M'Auliffe, crowning the hill ; lights streamed from every window, yet sad were the hearts within. He crossed the stream and approached the oak tree, the oldest in these parts. A figure in white reclined beneath the branches ; he stole cautiously. " Mealane ! " At the sound of his voice the figure rose up, and waving her white hands to bid farewell, was borne along the course of the stream, as though under the guidance of some powerful spirit, and fled towards the rock, which opened to receive her. It closed immediately, and since there has been no direct trace of the fair Mealane, but often the nightly wanderer sees the fluttering of the white drapery about Mealane's Rock. O'Herlahy married a less supernatural lady, and the lands of M'Auliffe passed to strange hands.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 105

3. Kanturk Castle and M'Donough's Folly

   Kanturk · town · Cork · 1558–1603

   Donough M'Carthy commenced building a magnificent quadrangular castle at Kanturk during Elizabeth's reign, with towers at each angle and hewn-stone ornamentation. The Lords of Council in England ordered the works stopped, deeming it a dangerous fortress for a private subject, and locals call it M'Donough's Folly.

   Read the passage

   encounter while hunting. In the reign of Elizabeth, Donough M'Carthy commenced the building before us, on the most magnificent scale. It occupies four sides, a quadrangle, 120 feet in length by 80 in breadth, three stories high, flanked at each angle by a strong square tower, of four stories : each story in the main or centre portion has three windows. The quoins, mouldings, belts, and ornamental portions, are of hewn stone. The only portions which seem to have stooped before the power of three centuries are the battlements, which have fallen. The occasion of its being incomplete is stated to have been a representation to Queen Elizabeth that this castle was a place of very dangerous importance to belong to a private subject, and was neither more nor less than a strong regular fortress ; upon which the Lords of the Council in England issued an order to have the works stopped. The people of the vicinity call the place M'Donough's Folly, from the vast extent of preparation, and a want of means to complete what he commenced, which would relieve the government from the charge of preventing the completion of this noble pile. Close by is a small stream, called the Brogeen, or Blue Pool, so designated, I am informed, from a load of coloured glass having fallen into it, while on its way to adorn the windows of the castle ; and glass being proverbially brittle, was smashed, of course, and the particles remaining in the bed of the river, gave a blue tinge to the water.

   The town of Kanturk is small, but very rapidly extending in size and com-

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 102

4. Lismore Castle built by King John and attacked, 1185–1189

   Lismore and Mocollop · parish · Cork · 1185–1189

   Lismore Castle was built by King John in 1185. In 1189 it was surprised by the Irish, who slew the garrison along with Robert Barry, the governor. When rebuilt, it served as the bishops' residence.

   Read the passage

   Lismore Castle, the present principal attraction of more modern times, was built by King John, a. d. 1185, and was surprised by the Irish in 1189, who displayed their inveterate hostility by slaying the garrison, with Robert Barry, the governor. When rebuilt, it was occupied by the bishops as their residence, until the time of Milor Magrath, who, with the consent of the Dean and Chapter, granted it to Sir Walter Raleigh, from whom, with the rest of his possessions, it was purchased by the Earl of Cork. Early in the insurrection of 1641, the castle was besieged by

   * Gul. Malm.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 37

5. Raleigh captures Lord Roche at Castletownroche

   Castletownroche · town · Cork

   During Queen Elizabeth's reign, Sir Walter Raleigh marched by night from Cork with ninety soldiers to Castletownroche, the chief seat of the Lords Roche. By a ruse he gained entrance to the castle with six men, admitted his armed soldiers, and took Lord Roche and his lady prisoner to Cork that same night.

   Read the passage

   The Catholic chapel is higher* in the town. The castle is a spacious building, lately repaired, and added to by its present owner, Henry Mitchell Smyth, Esq., brother to Richard Smyth, of Ballinatra, Esq. This was formerly the chief seat of the Lords Roche. The loyalty of the head of the family being suspected, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, instructions were sent to Sir Walter Raleigh, then at Cork, to take him prisoner, which duty he performed ; and however we may be disposed to regard the means by which it was effected, certainly we cannot refuse some praise for the coolness and courage displayed by Raleigh. Advised that Fitzgerald, Seneschal of Immokilly, intended to intercept the march, Raleigh collected a small band of ninety soldiers, and started so unexpectedly at night, that he escaped any interruption, and arrived at Castletown Roche the next morning. The advance of the English caused the inhabitants to muster for defence ; but Raleigh avoided blows, and requested permission to speak with Lord Roche. He advanced to the castle, attended by six men only, and the chieftain, surprised by the visit, received him with apparent cordiality. Sir Walter kept him in conversation on various topics, while the men who accompanied him contrived to give entrance to all their comrades fully armed, each musket containing two balls. Lord Roche, perceiving his castle completely in the hands of the English troops, made a virtue of necessity, and, addressing Sir Walter with kindness, ordered refreshments for his men, and invited him to dinner. When the repast was concluded, Sir Walter acquainted his host with the cause of his coming, and exhibited the warrant for his apprehension. He yielded when he could not resist, and Sir Walter carried him and his lady to Cork the same night, which proved dark and stormy, without any molestation from the Seneschal of Immokilly.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 82

6. Alfred the Great educated at Lismore

   Lismore and Mocollop · parish · Cork

   Alfred the Great, described as the most renowned and learned monarch in Europe, was educated at Lismore. There he acquired skill on the Irish harp, which he later used to gain access to the tent of the Danish prince Guthrum while disguised as a harper.

   Read the passage

   Devoted to learning, the Irish were not alone content with displaying an attachment to the sciences, and exhibiting unparalleled zeal to promote them at home, but extended their institutions abroad, and sent forth men of genius and piety, who became eminent in every part of Europe, in the early ages. Alfred the Great, who was the most renowned and most learned monarch in Europe, was educated here — in Hibernia omni philosophia animum composuit* : and here he acquired the skill on the Irish harp, which he afterwards employed so successfully, in procuring admission to the tent of Guthrum, the Danish prince, disguised as a harper, and while sojourning there, became acquainted with the manners and habits of his foes, and laid plans for defeating and banishing them from his kingdom. On his return to England, he invited Johannes Erigena to his court, and with the assistance of that Professor, founded the University of Oxford — probably on the plan of that of Lismore. Bede mentions an interesting instance of the liberality, and eagerness to impart the best instruction, evinced by our ancestors — " They not only liberally endowed seminaries for native pupils, but invited every foreigner to participate in the same pursuit ; and with a disinterestedness unknown in similar establishments of any people in their highest state of refinement, defrayed every expense, and gratuitously supplied the literary guests with every accommodation."

   Lismore Castle, the present principal attraction of more modern times, was built by King John, a. d. 1185, and was surprised by the Irish in 1189, who displayed their inveterate hostility by slaying the garrison, with Robert Barry, the governor. When rebuilt, it was occupied by the bishops as their residence, until the time of Milor Magrath, who, with the consent of the Dean and Chapter, granted it to Sir Walter Raleigh, from whom, with the rest of his possessions, it was purchased by the Earl of Cork. Early in the insurrection of 1641, the castle was besieged by

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 37

7. Desmond's castle banquet and burning at Lough Gur

   near Lough Gur · lake or lakes · Limerick

   Desmond invited guests who flocked in such numbers that his provisions were nearly exhausted. To save face he staged a hunting expedition and ordered the castle burned accidentally, but his steward arrived with provisions and the castle was saved. Desmond is said to keep state beneath the waters of Lough Gur, riding the lake armed once every seven years.

   Read the passage

   accepted, and flocked in in crowds, to the great surprise of Desmond, who was desperately annoyed when he found his store of provisions nearly exhausted. At last, when informed his provisions could not possibly furnish the next day's dinner, he invited all Ins guests to a great hunting expedition, and gave orders to have the castle burned, as if by accident, in their absence, in order to save his credit. He expected from each rising ground to see the flames. About dinner-time up came the steward, who had been absent for some days, to inform his lord he had arrived in time to save the castle, by bringing a large prey of corn and cattle : the news so rejoiced the earl he vowed to build a church near the castle. This chieftain is said to keep state under the waters of Lough Gurr, near Kilmallock, and once every seven years rides on the lake fully armed and accoutred.

   About eight miles north of Fermoy is Mitchelstown. The Earl of Kingston has a magnificent castle here, in the Gothic style, which is well worth seeing, and the hospitable lord of the castle always receives strangers with a hearty welcome. On his extensive estates, about eight miles further, nearly midway between -Mitchelstown and Cahir, are vast subterranean caverns with beautiful stalactites. The best account yet given of these caves is in Hall's " Ireland," and we extract it for the benefit of tourists : —

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 59

8. Dromana: birthplace of the old Countess of Desmond

   Dromana · townland · Waterford

   Dromana is the reputed birthplace of the old Countess of Desmond, who reportedly lived to 140 years and travelled to London to reclaim her jointure from James I. Her death is said to have been caused by falling from a cherry-tree she had climbed to gather fruit.

   Read the passage

   This wing was in good preservation. The precipitous declivities which swept down from the rocky foundation of the house to the river had been cut into terrace gardens, a fashion still observable at the seats of the ancient nobility of Munster." This is the reputed birthplace of the old Countess of Desmond, who, at the age of 140 years, crossed the Channel, and travelled to London, to demand and obtain from James I. the restoration of her jointure, of which the attainder of the Earl of Desmond deprived her. Her death is said to have been caused from falling off a cherry-tree, into which she had climbed to get at the fruit. In Seward's " Topographia Hibernica," Dublin, 1795, this is noticed as a seat of the Earl of Grandison, who had an estate of about 6000/. a year in this county, and stated to be built on the foundation of an ancient castle, formerly the chief seat of the Fitzgeralds of Decies. The castle, with all its furniture, was burned by the Irish. Near at hand, at Affane, a "bloody battle" was fought, on 1st February, 1564, between the Irish Guelphs and Ghibellines, the Earls of Ormond and Desmond, in which the latter had 300 men killed, and he himself, the chief Geraldine, taken prisoner by his ancient, implacable foeman, the Butler. When the victors were carrying the fierce chieftain in triumph on their shoulders from the field, the leader of the Ormond party rode up, and tauntingly inquired, " Where is now the great Earl of Desmond ? " Though faint, and a captive, the wounded chief indignantly replied, " Where but in his proper place ! still on the necks of the Butlers." On a reconciliation being effected between these great rivals, they shook hands : an aperture was cut in an oak door, through which they performed that greeting, each fearing to be poniarded by the other !

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 32

9. Glendyne rocky basin hydromancy legend

   Glendine · townland · Kilkenny

   A rocky basin in the valley of Glendyne, constantly fed by a stream from a cliff above, was traditionally believed to be used by sorcerers to divine the future from its dark waters. An oral tradition tells of a fair lady who saw her lover's death in battle reflected in the basin and died of a broken heart, with news of his death arriving on the day of her funeral.

   Read the passage

   In the valley of Glendyne a rocky basin, not so perfect now as it was some years ago, is kept constantly full by a stream falling from a cliff above, the superfluous water dripping over the sides of the basin. Tradition states that there were sorcerers who could raise the shadows of futurity on the surface of this fluid mirror ; and it required but little exertion of the credulous imagination to give form and pressure to the varying shades which indistinctly appear on its dark waters. Similar legends are found attached to these natural rock basins in all parts of Europe, confirming Warburton's assertion, that hydromancy is one of the most widely spread forms of divination. He thinks, from the name of the place where the witch resided who invoked Samuel — "Endor," i.e. "perpetual fountain,"— that she had intended to consult the shadows on one of those natural mirrors ; and that this will explain her astonishment when a spirit appeared instead of a shade. An old man in Glendyne, had some faint recollection of a habitation which described a fair lady going to discover in the rocky basin the fate of her lover who had enlisted in the Irish brigade ; she beheld him falling in battle, and soon after died of a broken heart. On the day of her funeral intelligence arrived of her lover having fallen in some skirmish, nearly at the time when she beheld the fatal vision.

   Near the place where the river Lickey falls into the Black water is Clashmore, which, on the intermarriage with Miss Power, became the property of the Earl of Huntingdon. Loughtane is near the river. At some distance to the left are ruins which give abundant evidence of the extent and durability of the building. This is Strancally Castle, one of the fortresses of the Desmonds.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 29

10. Brogeen or Blue Pool stream legend

    Kanturk · town · Cork

    A small stream near Kanturk Castle called the Brogeen or Blue Pool is said to derive its name from a load of coloured glass that fell into it while being transported to adorn the castle windows. The smashed glass particles remaining in the riverbed gave the water a blue tinge.

    Read the passage

    encounter while hunting. In the reign of Elizabeth, Donough M'Carthy commenced the building before us, on the most magnificent scale. It occupies four sides, a quadrangle, 120 feet in length by 80 in breadth, three stories high, flanked at each angle by a strong square tower, of four stories : each story in the main or centre portion has three windows. The quoins, mouldings, belts, and ornamental portions, are of hewn stone. The only portions which seem to have stooped before the power of three centuries are the battlements, which have fallen. The occasion of its being incomplete is stated to have been a representation to Queen Elizabeth that this castle was a place of very dangerous importance to belong to a private subject, and was neither more nor less than a strong regular fortress ; upon which the Lords of the Council in England issued an order to have the works stopped. The people of the vicinity call the place M'Donough's Folly, from the vast extent of preparation, and a want of means to complete what he commenced, which would relieve the government from the charge of preventing the completion of this noble pile. Close by is a small stream, called the Brogeen, or Blue Pool, so designated, I am informed, from a load of coloured glass having fallen into it, while on its way to adorn the windows of the castle ; and glass being proverbially brittle, was smashed, of course, and the particles remaining in the bed of the river, gave a blue tinge to the water.

    The town of Kanturk is small, but very rapidly extending in size and com-

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 102

11. Kilcolman Castle, Desmond fortalice and Spenser's home

    Kilcolman · townland · Cork · 1597

    Kilcolman Castle was a fortalice of the Earl of Desmond, situated on a vast plain girt by lofty hills that Spenser introduced into his writings under poetical names. The castle was burned by insurgents during the rebellion of Tyrone in 1597, when Spenser escaped with difficulty.

    Read the passage

    independence. Kilcolman Castle was a fortalice of the Earl of Desmond. It was surrounded by a vast plain, unenlivened by hamlet or mansion, and, at a great distance, girt by a horizon of lofty hills, all of which have been introduced into his writings under poetical names. The Ballyhowra hills to the north are the Mountains of Mole — " Old Father Mole." This name he gives to the hills running along the northern and eastern limits of Cork, and dividing that county from Limerick and Tipperary. Gualtie More, the highest of the Gualty range, he calls Arlo Hill ; doubtless from its vicinity to the Glen of Aherlow, which lies behind it on the Tipperary side.

    " Eftsoones the time and place appointed were

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 80

12. Short Castle defence by Lieutenant Williamson

    Mallow · town · Cork · 1641–1642

    The Short Castle at Mallow was defended by Lieutenant Williamson during the 1641 insurrection. After repeated assaults and breaches, he capitulated on terms, but when the Irish broke the agreement, Williamson seized a sword, dragged an Irish officer by the hair, and fought his way into the main castle.

    Read the passage

    After Lieut. Williamson had surrendered the Short Castle, he went into a public house, with some of his men and a few of the Irish, to drink. He had not sat long, when an Irish officer entered into the room, with another man, who laid down a block and a large broad sword ; which apparatus startling Williamson, he asked " what they were for ? " He was answered, " to strike off his and his men's heads," which was no sooner spoken but Williamson snatched up the sword, with his left hand took hold of the Irish officer by the hair, and drew him to the very walls of the other castle, not far distant, where he gave him some kicks, and letting him go, entered the castle with his men. j

    We do not know which to admire most, the good-fellowship of Williamson going to drink with his foes, his bravery in seizing and dragging the officer by the hair, or his magnanimity in letting him off with a few kicks.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 87

13. Battle of Scarteen between military and Whiteboys

    Scarteen · townland · Cork · 1822

    In 1822, a conflict took place at Scarteen between the military, commanded by Captain Kippock and Lieutenant Green, and the Whiteboys, resulting in the defeat of the latter. The local gentry presented handsome pieces of plate to the officers in recognition of their intrepidity.

    Read the passage

    Distant only a few miles is Newmarket, built on a small stream, that falls into the Oondala. It consists principally of two streets, crossing each other at right angles. The inhabitants number above 1000. The ancient name of this place was Ahatrasne, or " the place of the ford," which ford is now superseded by the commodious bridge near the entrance of the town. James I. made a grant of the property, of which this town is part, to the Aldworth family, part of the forfeited estates of the M'Auliffes. There was a patent for holding a market — whence the name Newmarket, confirmed by Charles II. A conflict took place at Scarteen, in 1822, between the military commanded by Captain Kippock and Lieut. Green, and the Whiteboys, in which the latter were defeated. — Handsome pieces of plate testified the value of the officers' intrepidity and conduct in the minds of the gentry of the district.

    Newmarket House, the seat of R. R. Aldworth, Esq., lord of the manor, is a spacious mansion, of cut limestone, well situated in a finely planted and picturesque demesne. Some of the trees are very aged : an avenue of ash is said to have been planted in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 103

14. Brennan the outlaw of the Kilworth mountains

    Kilworth · townland · Cork

    The mountains near Kilworth, two miles north of Fermoy, were the haunt of the celebrated outlaw Brennan and his gang. Brennan was a popular robber of the Rob Roy school who robbed the rich and gave to the poor, and whose exploits shed no blood. He once escaped capture by signalling a barmaid to fetch his blunderbuss concealed under her apron, turning the tables on his captors. He was eventually hanged at Clonmel.

    Read the passage

    originating the remark, " All on one side, like Fermoy." Its houses consisted of a carriers' inn and a few cabins, but some good country seats were in the neighbourhood. Mount Glissan, residence of my grandfather, William Glissan, Esq., now called Bellevue ; Straw Hall, seat of Joseph Curry, Esq. ; Bettyville, Richard Nason, Esq., and many others. Then Kilworth was a considerable town. It lies two miles north of Fermoy, and its neighbouring mountains were the haunt of the celebrated Brennan and his gang of robbers. Brennan was an outlaw of the Rob Roy school, and most popular ; he robbed the rich and gave to the poor. His depredations had always something of a chivalrous cast, and no blood sullied his exploits. Once he was near being captured by two officers, who sallied forth in quest of him. They came up to him on the mountain, and knew him by the description they received ; he in vain tried to persuade them " That a poor labouring boy like him could not be the*bould Brennan," but they insisted on his accompanying him. Passing a shebeen house they halted for rest and refreshment ; the captive begged to have the indulgence of his pipe, which was granted ; he reached the dhudeen to the bare-legged girl who attended as barmaid, and nodding significantly bade her " Put fire in that." She understood the hint, and presently returned with his blunderbuss concealed beneath her apron, which she managed to hand him under the table. " Now, gentlemen," shouted the freebooter, covering his captors with the formidable weapon as he rose, " I am the bould Brennan." The tables were completely turned ; the captors became captives, yielded their money and arms, and were suffered to return to their quarters quite crest-fallen. Brennan was hanged at Clonmell and the gang broken up. This town is still very extensive ; a post town, and has a good hotel. It gives the title of Viscount to the eldest son of the Earl of Mountcashel, the proprietor. The eminent barrister, Right Hon. D. R. Pigot, M. P. for Clonmell, was born in this town, also Mr. B. Simmons, a distinguished poetic writer in Blackwood's Magazine.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Kilworth, the mountains were the haunt of the celebrated Brennan and his gang of robbers. Kilworth lies two miles north of Fermoy, and in its day it was a considerable town. Brennan was an outlaw of the Rob Roy school, and most popular. He robbed the rich and gave to the poor. His depredations had always something of a chivalrous cast, and no blood sullied his exploits. Once he was near being captured by two officers who sallied forth in quest of him. They came up to him on the mountain and knew him by the description they had received. He tried in vain to persuade them that a poor labouring boy like him could not be the bould Brennan, but they insisted on his accompanying them. Passing a shebeen house they halted for rest and refreshment. The captive begged to have the indulgence of his pipe, which was granted. He reached the pipe to the bare-legged girl who attended as barmaid, and nodding significantly bade her, "Put fire in that." She understood the hint and presently returned with his blunderbuss concealed beneath her apron, which she managed to hand him under the table. "Now, gentlemen," shouted the freebooter, covering his captors with the formidable weapon as he rose, "I am the bould Brennan." The tables were completely turned. The captors became captives, yielded their money and arms, and were suffered to return to their quarters quite crestfallen. Brennan was hanged at Clonmel and the gang broken up.

15. Cloghleagh Castle and the Vavasor engagement

    Cloghleagh · townland · Clare · 1642–1643

    Cloghleagh (Greystone), a tall square tower built by the Condons in the Moorepark demesne near the Funcheon, was taken by Lord Barrymore in July 1642 and again attacked by Sir Charles Vavasor in June 1643, when a desperate engagement nearby left Vavasor and nearly 600 killed.

    Read the passage

    In the domain, near the river Funcheon, is a strong castle, Cloghleagh, or Greystone, a tall square tower, rounded at the angles, built by the Condons. In " Smith's History of Cork," vol. ii. p. 147., there is the following circumstantial account of a desperate engagement fought here : — " Sir Charles Vavasor marched towards Condon's country, and took the castle of Cloghleagh, on 3d June, 1643, after an obstinate defence of Condon the governor. Next day the Irish assembled in such force, that the victors were compelled to retreat, and Sir Charles ordered the cannon to hasten to Fermoy, to help to defend that pass. He then led on his army ; but on entering a defile, was charged on by the Irish, and nearly all were slain. According to some, 600 were killed. Sir Charles Vavasor, and almost all the officers, fell in this engagement." I thought, when recurring to this event, that Dr. Smith laboured under some mistake, because the castle at this time belonged to the Fleetwoods, from whom the Earl of Mountcashel's ancestors purchased it. He showed me the patents granting it ; the first dated 3d September, 29 Elizabeth, granted to Thomas Fleetwood and Marmaduke Redmayn ; the second confirming it in Charles II. 's reign. I find, however, that the very year before that mentioned in " Smith's History," namely, July, 1642, this castle, then the property of Sir Richard Fleetwood, was taken by Lord Barrymore, and the custody of it entrusted to Sir Arthur Hyde, from whom it was afterwards taken by a descendant of the original founder, who surprised the garrison. He was in possession when attacked by Sir Charles Vavasor.

    Some distance from the foot of the castle the Funcheon runs under a neat bridge, and falls into the Blackwater at Hallihan's rock.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 46

16. Legend of Mealane, the M'Auliffe heiress

    Newmarket · town · Cork

    Mealane, the fair-haired daughter of M'Auliffe, called the 'Lily of the Valley,' was celebrated for her beauty and was sole heiress to the M'Auliffe possessions. O'Herlahy, chief of Carrigduve, sought her hand, but her father sent him to fight in a foreign land before granting his daughter's hand in marriage.

    Read the passage

    " Who was like to Mealane, the fair-haired daughter of M'Auliffe ? Whose step was lighter in the dance ? whose voice sweeter in the song ? Who was like to Mealane ? "

    Years have passed since the events I am about to relate. The proud wall has crumbled into a mass of ruin, and the proud race who held the lordly towers are extinguished, yet never has the beauty of Mealane been surpassed, or the graceful figure of the damsel equalled.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 104

17. Sir Richard Boyle and the College of Youghal revenues

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1604

    Following the attainder of Sir Walter Raleigh around 1604, Sir Richard Boyle acquired his Irish estates, including the College of Youghal. Boyle secured the appointment of his kinsman Dr. Richard Boyle as warden and took control of the College revenues.

    Read the passage

    sidence while at Youghal. When Sir Walter quitted Ireland, it was repaired and remodelled in 1602 by Sir George Carew, Lord President of Munster, who left it, as far as exterior is concerned, in nearly the same state that it is now — a good specimen of the English "great house" in Queen Elizabeth's time. Raleigh was attainted about the year 1604, and Sir Richard Boyle had contrived, previous to the last voyage of the unfortunate Raleigh, to get a dead bargain of his Irish estates — three seigniories and a half for a sum not exceeding a thousand pounds. Sir Richard Boyle, evidently a very shrewd man, procured, in the patent confirming the sale of these lands, special mention of the College of Youghal, and on the marriage of Sir Richard's daughter to Sir Jeffrey Fenton, in 1605, the revenues of the College were settled as the lady's jointure. Sir Richard had previously managed to get his own kinsman, Dr. Richard Boyle, appointed warden of the house ; and induced the warden and fellows to make over to him and his heirs the College revenues for ever, on payment of twenty marks yearly. In 1634, the Lord Deputy Viscount Wentworth summoned Sir Richard to come and appear at Dublin Castle and answer some heavy charges that were brought against him ; on which occasion, observes Dr. Smith, " Sir William Reeves, then Attorney- General, exhibited a very severe bill against him." A fine of fifteen thousand pounds was awarded to the Crown, and a portion of the estates vested in the King. Lord Wentworth was shortly afterwards created Earl of Strafford, and Boyle first Earl of Cork. The Earl of Cork died in 1643 ; he was succeeded by his son, from whom Samuel Hayman purchased. On the death of Samuel, in 1672, this house, with other property, vested in his son John, who represented the town of Youghal in Parliament for ten years, 1703 — 1713. John had no issue by his marriage with a beautiful girl, named Hannah Crockford ; and when he died, in 1731, his brother Samuel got the place, which he enjoyed as long as he could. His son John succeeded to it, in due course, in right of being eldest born ; but, dying a bachelor, his next brother succeeded. This was a clergyman, the Reverend Atkin Hayman ; and it was he that changed the name of the place, and gave it the appellation it bears at present — Myrtle Grove. He went the way of all flesh, dying in April, 1793; and the register of his burial has, after the record of that event, the simple words, "A good man," — higher praise than a marble monument. On his death the property passed to his eldest son, the late Walter Atkin Hayman, Esq. ; and the house is now let to Colonel Faunt, who kindly permits visiters to inspect this dwelling, so interesting from its associations with past days. Matthew Hayman, Esq., in whose possession the work referred to now is, resides in the town of Youghal. His son, the Reverend Samuel Hayman, curate of Glanworth, is a clergyman of the Established Church, of great literary and classical attainments ; one of the principal contributors to our national periodical literature ; and though his sacred calling, and the retiring

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 22

18. Strancally Castle cave and the Murdering Hole

    Strancally · townland · Waterford

    Tradition relates that the cave at Strancally Castle was used by the tyrannical earls of Desmond as a prison for wealthy persons, whom they invited to the castle, then confined in the dungeon to perish. Dead bodies were cast through a hole cut in the rock like a portcullis into the river, known as the Murdering Hole. One captive escaped and informed the government, after which both cave and castle were demolished.

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    country, whom they frequently invited to the Castle to make merry, and when in their power confined to this dungeon, where they suffered their captives to perish. There is a hole cut through the rock in the manner of a portcullis, down which the dead bodies were cast into the river. It is called the Murdering Hole. One person by good fortune escaped out of this dungeon, who informed the government of these horrid practices, and both the Cave and the Castle were soon afterwards demolished. The Cave is entirely laid open, and half the Castle b]own up, the powder having split it from top to bottom ; and large pieces of the wall were thrown to a considerable distance by the force of the blast. *

    The river is very deep at this place. The right bank is barren and destitute of timber, while the left is magnificently wooded, especially round a strikingly picturesque and beautiful castle lately erected, and called after its old neighbour, Strancally Castle, seat of John Keily, Esq. The contrast between the embattled

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 30

19. 1652 conflict at Banteer led by Lord Broghill

    Banteer · town · Cork · 1652

    In July 1652 a body of parliamentary troops led by Lord Broghill was active in the Banteer neighbourhood, making this area the scene of a military conflict during the Cromwellian wars.

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    Close to Bantyre Bridge the river Bantyre runs from Mount Hilary, and falls into the Blackwater. Opposite is a small house belonging to Mr. Leader. At the cross of Bantyre is the Roman Catholic chapel of Clonmeen, and near it a commodious dwelling of the priest, the Rev. Edmund Murphy. A good school has been built, and another is in progress of erection, under the superintendence of this excellent clergyman, who, acting on a principle similar to his respected brother, the parish priest of Fermoy, incessantly labours for the spread of information, and the advancement of religion and virtue throughout their respective localities. This neighbourhood was the scene of a conflict in 1652. In the month of July of that year, a body of the parliamentary troops, led by Lord Broghill, having in the

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 99

20. Round Tower of Youghal as Norman lighthouse

    Youghal · town · Cork

    The Anglo-Normans established a lighthouse at Youghal, whose ruins survive as the Round Tower. A richly endowed nunnery was maintained on condition that the nuns ensure the light was kept burning, exploiting Irish reluctance to harm consecrated women.

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    Taking all these circumstances into consideration, and comparing them with the present aspect of the country, we are led to the following conclusions, which will be found to agree in their results with the accounts given by geologists of the changes in the embouchures of several rivers in America. The broad of Youghal, or wide space into which the river expands below Rhincrew and above the town, must be regarded as originally a lake bounded by wooded swamps ; indeed it retains much of the character of a lake at the present day. From this the water flowed to the sea by two channels, of which the larger, or at least the more navigable, flowed through the valley that now ends in Whiting Bay, and hence arose the ancient importance of Ardmore, now an insignificant village, but once so important as to have been a bishop's see. The closing of the mouth of the Whiting Bay branch was probably gradual ; but it may have been accelerated by some violent storm, or other convulsion of nature, and the river then worked out for itself a wider channel through the Youghal branch, at the same time a greater tidal action was brought to bear on the swampy forest, which is partly submerged beneath the sea, and partly covered by the sand and shingle of the long strand. This change took place previous to the English invasion ; but when Henry II. came to Lismore, Youghal had not yet been founded, or at least was a place of such little consequence, that no one appeared to offer its allegiance to the monarch. The town was probably founded by the Geraldines, and other Anglo-Norman adventurers, and colonised from Bristol, with which city it has always continued to be intimately associated. Its great value to the Anglo-Normans was the facility which it offered them for obtaining aid from England ; and on this account they established a light-house, the ruins of which still exist, under the name of the Round Tower ; and richly endowed a nunnery, under the condition that the nuns should see that the light was regularly maintained. This condition of tenure was instituted as an appeal to the religion and the gallantry of the native Irish, who were deterred from injuring the light which guided reinforcements to the invaders by a reluctance to offer violence to consecrated females. We have been induced to dwell at some length on the formation of this harbour, because we know of no other instance in which an interesting geographical problem is so curiously

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 11

21. Youghal mayor hanged at his own door

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1580

    After the 1580 retreat of insurgents, a garrison of 300 men was left at Youghal. The mayor, who had perfidiously yielded the town to Desmond instead of defending it as promised, was taken and hanged at his own door.

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    his age, a. d. 1256. This is believed to have been the first Franciscan friary in Ireland. In 1317, Sir Roger Mortimer, Lord Justice, landed here, with thirty-eight knights, and in a short time forced Edward Bruce to retreat from this neighbourhood, and seek refuge in Ulster. The town suffered much in the Avars of the Earl of Desmond ; for, in 1579, he plundered it, and carried off the property to his castles of Strancally, and Lisfinny, co. Waterford. The Earl of Ormonde, receiving intelligence of this attack, sent a ship from Waterford with troops, which entered the town, but, being overpowered by the forces of the Seneschal of Imokilly, most of them were killed, and the remainder escaped with difficulty. The devastation to which the town was exposed left it quite desolate, not a man staying in it except one poor friar ; but on the retreat of the insurgents, in 1580, the inhabitants were invited to return, a garrison of 300 men being left for their protection. The mayor, who, before the incursion, had perfidiously refused to receive an English garrison, promising to defend the place to the last extremity, but who, instead of keeping his promise, yielded the town to Desmond, was taken, and hanged at his own door.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

22. Sullivan the Whisperer tames vicious horses at Mallow

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    A horse trainer named Sullivan, son of the celebrated 'Whisperer,' demonstrated his inherited mysterious power over vicious horses on the Fermoy race course. His father, a farrier by trade, was renowned for subduing the most refractory horses by a secret half-hour tete-a-tete in the stable, after which the wildest horse became completely docile.

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    A horse trainer of this town claims some notice, not so much from his own as his father's fame. He is Sullivan, son to the celebrated Whisperer, and inherits a portion, at least, of his father's mysterious power over the horse, which I saw him exercise on the Fermoy race course. The father was a farrier, and acquired such an influence in subduing the spirit of the most vicious and refractory horse, as to become a celebrated character, and obtained the sobriquet of " the Whisperer." He is described as an awkward ignorant rustic of the lowest class, and was paid generally according to the distance he was summoned to tame a vicious beast. When he reached his destination, he performed the operation in secret, causing himself and the animal to be shut up together in the stable, the door not to be opened until he gave a signal to do so. After a tete-a-tete of a half hour's duration, during which little or no noise was heard by those anxiously listening, or " airing their eye at the keyhole," the signal made, the door opened, presented the horse lying down and the man by his side familiarly playing with him, like a child with a young dog. The spirit hitherto so untractable as to defy the ordinary rough riders was completely broken ; the steed, from which the boldest rider shrunk as dangerous to mount, a child might ride in safety. Rev. H. Townsend relates : — " I once saw his skill tried on a horse which could never before be brought for a smith to shoe him. The day after Sullivan's half -hour lecture, I went, not without some incredulity, to the smith's shop with many other curious spectators, when we were eye-witnesses of the complete success of his art. This, too, had been a troop horse, and it was supposed, not without reason, that after regimental discipline had failed no other would be found availing." Another gentleman, of whose friendship from my childhood I can speak with gratitude, for if my sketches possess any merit, to him in a great measure the praise is due who so kindly imparted instruction, while he and his accomplished daughter, now Lady Deane, of Cork, were visiters at my father's, Robert O'Callaghan Newenham, Esq., delineator and projector of that costly and accurately designed work, 'Pic-

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 91

23. Assault on Clayton's castle near Mallow, 1642

    Mallow · town · Cork · 1642

    On 15th February 1642, Lord Roche's forces attacked Mr. Clayton's castle near Mallow, using ten masons to breach the wall. A burning barn illuminated the attackers, allowing the garrison to pick them off; 200 Irish were killed and 140 wounded before the castle fell by storm.

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    ster, thought they ought to have a general of their own province ; but to avoid disputes among the lords, they pitched upon Garret Barry as their general, who had long served under the King of Spain, and was reputed to be a good soldier ; Lord Muskerry, and other leaders, acting as a council of war. On the 15th February, 1642, a party of Lord Roche's forces, joined by several of M'Donough's, assailed Mr. Clayton's castle, near Mallow, and employed ten masons in making a breach in the wall, they having no battering artillery. The garrison made a resolute defence. A large barn was set on fire, that the smoke and flame might procure the assailants admission : it only assisted the besieged, without doing them any injury; for, occurring at night, it threw a bright light over the country outside the walls, and every shot from the castle found a victim. It is said that 200 of the Irish forces were killed, and 140 wounded. A breach being at length effected, the place was carried by storm, and the garrison put to the sword. The castle of Mallow was taken in 1645, by the Earl of Castlehaven, and was nearly reduced to ruins. It was suffered to remain in this dilapidated state many years ; the first attempt to restore it was made in 1666. In a letter dated 3d of April, 1666, written by Lord Orrery to the Duke of Ormond, from Charleville, his lordship takes notice, " that there was then but one bridge over the Blackwater, winch," he says, " is forty miles navigable for boats." This would lead one to suppose that the river was used for commercial purposes as far as the place occupied by Fermoy at present. " This bridge," continues Lord Orrery, " is at Mallow, where there is a, castle of good strength if it had a little reparation, and is one of the greatest passes and thoroughfares in this province, and if seized on by any enemy, would, in effect, divide the country into two parts." When this kingdom was threatened with an invasion from France, the castle was deemed of such importance, commanding the chief pass and only bridge on the Blackwater, that the grand jury of the county of Cork presented a sum for the necessary repairs, to put it in a state of defence ; but the judge reserved himself from fiating, until he spoke with Lord Orrery, the Lord President, and again deferred the affair till he spoke with the Lord Lieutenant, the law only allowing presentments for bridges, causeways, highways, &c.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 87

24. Desmond's chapel ruins at Ardnagragh

    Ardnagragh · townland · Westmeath · 1583

    At Ardnagragh stand the ruins of Desmond's chapel, situated close to the churchyard of Killanamana. The remains of the great Earl of Desmond, styled in history as 'Ingens rebellibus exemplar,' were interred here after his death in 1583.

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    At Ardnagragh are the ruins of Desmond's chapel, which is close to the churchyard of Killanamana. Here were interred the remains of the great Earl of Desmond, styled, in history, Ingens rebellibus exemplar. His death-blow was given near this place. The account by Smith* is, " The Earl having taken a prey of cattle was pursued to Kerry, near the side of a mountain, and a little grove, through which one of the pursuers observed a fire not far off. One of the company on this information being sent to learn who were there, upon his return informed them there were five or six people in an old house ; whereupon they determined to attack them, and entering it found only an old man, the others being fled ; when one Daniel Kelly (who was afterwards hanged at Tyburn, although rewarded by Queen Elizabeth) almost cut off the Earl's arm with his sword, and repeating the blow over his head, the old man cried out, desiring them to save his life, for that he was the Earl of Desmond. Kelly upon this desisted, but the effusion of blood causing him to grow faint, and being unable to travel, he bade him prepare for death, and on the 11th of November, 1583, struck off his head, which was sent by the Earl of Ormond into England for a present to the Queen, who caused it to be fixed on London Bridge, and his body, after eight weeks' hiding, was buried at Killanamana." The castles of Kilcushnan and Bally M'Adam, not far from this, were strongholds of the Fitzgeralds of Desmond, who had so unfraternal a feeling, that one brother would not permit the other to pass safely through his lands.

    A wide tract of uncultivated country extends on both sides of the river, which now forms the boundary between Cork and Kerry. This country is called Pobble

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 110

25. Discovery and exploration of the Mitchelstown caverns

    Mitchelstown Caves · cave s souterrain s · Tipperary

    The cave was found by a man assisted by two boys named Shelly, who descended a sixteen-foot precipice by rope and explored massive columns of spar and stalactites until their candles burned out. They sat in despair until the boys' father and friends found them at midnight in the middle cave.

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    accomplished artist, to whose graceful and accurate pencil we are so largely indebted, visited the cave within little more than a year after its discovery. He states that the man by whom it was found obtained the assistance of two boys, named Shelly, to explore it. After proceeding a considerable distance with great caution, they at length arrived at the brink of a perpendicular precipice, which appeared to put a stop altogether to their further progress. Their anxiety and determination, however, to explore this subterranean wonder, increased with the difficulty of attaining it ; and after various conjectures, as to how they ought to proceed, they at length procured a burning turf, tied to a string, which they dropped to the lower part of the precipice, measuring about sixteen feet. Afterwards, lowering each other down by means of ropes, they proceeded with lighted candles along the narrow and rocky passage — the grandeur and novelty of the place, together with its apparent endless extent, massive columns and pyramids of spar, stalactites, &c, succeeding each other in endless variety, and the desire of discovery, attracted them onwards, till their lights were nearly burnt out. It was then the danger of attempting a return in the dark struck them : they hastened back, but long before they arrived at the cavern's mouth, the lights had expired, and they sat down in despair. They remained in this alarming situation until midnight. At length the father of the boys and some other friends came in search of them, and found them in the middle cave.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 59

26. Florence Newton and the Youghal witch trials

    Youghal · town · Cork

    Youghal's Puritan settlers were firm believers in witchcraft, and tradition records several persons burned at the stake. The trial of Florence Newton, one of the Youghal witches, is preserved in Glanvil's collection as a singular exhibition of credulity and barbarity.

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    When the first Earl of Cork purchased from Sir Walter Raleigh the grants he had obtained of the monastic and other lands forfeited in Elizabeth's reign, he adopted the policy of colonising the towns in the vicinity of the Blackwater with settlers from England, chiefly from Gloucestershire, Somersetshire, and Devonshire. Of these settlers, the greater part had adopted Puritan principles, which exposed them to ecclesiastical penalties at home ; they were in the great civil war the most decided enemies of the Stuarts, and it was the timely adhesion of Youghal to the parliamentary cause which relieved Cromwell from the difficulties in which he was placed by the obstinate defence of Clonmel. Like most of the Puritans, those who settled in Youghal were firm believers in witchcraft, and tradition preserves the memory of several unhappy persons burned at the stake during the presence of this delusion. Glanvil's curious collection contains the trial of one of the Youghal witches, Florence Newton ; and it is one of the most singular exhibitions of credulity and barbarity recorded in the melancholy annals of the witch-mania. Some of the peculiarities of puritanism are still to be found in the families descended from the original Puritans ; but the most palpable monument of such rigidity is the venerable old church, the interior of which when last repaired was stripped of its collegiate character, and assimilated as much as possible to the severe plainness of the conventicle. Many of the followers of Cromwell and of William III., attracted by similarity of sentiment, in the families of the previous colonists, settled in or near Youghal, which with Bandon was long regarded as the great stronghold of what was called the Protestant interest in the south of Ireland. Several of the early settlers had been companions of Raleigh in his expeditions against the Spaniards, and there are some faint traces of their having kept up their old connection with the buccaneers. During several generations the spirit of naval adventure was rife in their families, and during the wars in the first half of the last century several privateers were fitted out and manned from Youghal, the crews of which were celebrated for their desperate bravery, which set all odds at defiance. Even so late as the last French war, Youghal sailors were distinguished in the navy by their readiness to defy the perils of storm and battle.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 10

27. Headless horseman of Glenabo

    Glenabo · valley · Cork

    A local tale recounts an encounter with a headless horseman near Glenabo. The spectre rode a black horse with a milk-white mane and tail, and carried his own grinning head in his coat pocket, speaking from it.

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    such, but gave no credit to it — I thought it was all sharaos, mere old woman's talk, but sure enough, the headless horseman of Glenabo was close by my side. Oh, Sirs ! in pity's sake reach me your hand, for I'm wake as wather at the remimbrance of it.' (I mixed him a drop of hot.) * Your health, gentlemen. The horse the headless man was riding was black as the raven's wing, but the main and tail milk white — a tall strong horse, and went like the wind. The rider appeared a stout built man, and sat his horse with a sure seat, much like your honour, and never shook in his place, though he had no stirrups. Poor Botheen trembled like one in the ague, and snorted loudly. We trotted fast back, but the unnatural man and horse kept by our side. At last, wishing to see how he would reply, I said, " Why, thin, it must be distressing to your honer to ride without stirrups."

    " ' " True for you, Brien Hegarty," was the reply from his coat pocket ; and oh ! that I should live to see the sight, his ugly head grinned from the pocket hole. " ' That's a snug horse you ride, Sir,' said I.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 54

28. Lismore as a holy city and asylum

    Lismore and Mocollop · parish · Cork

    An ancient author describes Lismore as a famous and holy city, half of which served as an asylum into which no woman dared enter. It was full of cells and monasteries, attracting religious men from all parts of Ireland, England, and Britain.

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    An ancient author f thus describes it : — " Lesmor is a famous and holy city, half of which is an asylum into which no woman durst enter ; but it is full of cells and holy monasteries, and religious men, in great numbers, abide there ; and thither holy men flock together from all parts of Ireland ; and not only from Ireland, but from England, and Britain, being desirous to remove from thence to Christ ; and the city is built on the banks of the river Abanmor — that is, the Great River — in the territory of the Nan Deci, or Desies." The city of Lismore acquired great renown as a literary resort. Morinus, in his life of the founder of the University of Lismore, writes, —

    " Certatim hi properant diverso transite ad urbem Lismoriam, juvenis primos ubi transigit annos."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 37

29. Raleigh's Sale of Irish Estates to Earl of Cork

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1602

    In 1602, Sir Walter Raleigh disposed of his Irish estates to the Earl of Cork from his residence at Youghal. He later charged his son Walter never to question the sale, acknowledging the Earl's hospitality compared to the risk of losing the land to the Crown.

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    There is an instance of the extreme foresight of Raleigh mentioned in Smith's History of Cork. In 1602 he disposed of all his Irish estates to the Earl of Cork ; and, supposing his family would seek to disturb the deed of sale, as indeed was afterwards the case, Raleigh, when on the eve of his last voyage to the West Indies, addressing his son Walter, said, " Wat, you see how nobly my Lord Boyle hath entertained me and my friends, and therefore I charge you, upon my blessing, if it please God that you outlive me, and return, that you never question the Lord Boyle for any thing that I sold him ; for if he had not bought my Irish land, it would have fallen to the Crown, and then one Scot or other would have begged it, from whom neither I nor mine should have any thing for

    18 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 17

30. Sullivan the Whisperer tames a vicious horse for Newenham

    Mallow · town · Cork

    Robert O'Callaghan Newenham sent for Sullivan to tame a thoroughly vicious and unbroken horse at his father's house. After a fifteen-to-twenty-minute session in the stable, the horse was utterly changed in temper and deportment, trembling and in profuse perspiration but completely tractable, and was later sold for fifty pounds.

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    turesque Antiquities of Ireland,' mentions a horse of his so thoroughly and irreclaimably vicious, that he would have taken five pounds willingly to get rid of him, though a noble figure, and of great powers of action. He heard of Sullivan, and sent for him. This was an opportunity of testing the accuracy of the stories told respecting his mysterious power, as the horse was quite wild and unbroken. Two guineas fee being agreed on in case of success — no purchase no pay — the pair were left tete-a-tete in the stable. At the expiration of some fifteen or twenty minutes the door was opened, and the horse utterly changed in temper and deportment. The skittish and fiery brute had disappeared, and a patient tractable animal, fit for a middle-aged gentleman, was led forth. When exposed to view he was in a profuse perspiration, as if he had been galloped, and seemed to tremble as through fear. The fame of the ^Whisperer was realised ; he placed a child on the horse's back, and the light hand curbed him : nay, more ; he placed the boy under the animal's feet, and he neither kicked or stirred while the child lay within reach. My friend kept the horse in use, riding him without danger, and disposed of him for fifty pounds. Sullivan would have realised quite a fortune if he had been prudent, but affection for hunting and love of whisky were his ruin. I fear these were among his legacies to his son, but trust the spread of temperance may have numbered the latter in the ranks of those who have taken the pledge of total abstinence at the hands of that great and good man, the very Reverend Theobald Mathew.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 91

31. Williamite skirmish at Fermoy, 1691

    Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1691

    In January 1691, Irish forces attacked Fermoy, whose stone bridge on the Blackwater was deemed a considerable pass. Brigadier Carroll led 1,500 attackers against the Danish garrison, but Colonel Donop used a stratagem of two trumpeters sounding a march to frighten the Irish into flight, pursuing them to Careigoncady-ford with losses of near eighty men.

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    In the struggle to keep James II. on the throne, this place became the scene of a conflict. In January, 1691, the frish, by the arrival of Tyrconnel, Nugha, Rice, and others from France, having received fresh supplies of arms and other necessaries, were encouraged (being straitened in their quarters) to try their fortune by the enlargement of their frontiers. Their main design was upon Fermoy and Ballymore ; the first, because of its stone bridge on the Blackwater, was esteemed a very considerable pass. The fortifications were slight, and the garrison not numerous ; their strength consisted chiefly of two field pieces, which gave them more reputation than force : this place was attacked by Brigadier Carroll and 1500 of the enemy ; but the Danes, who had the guard of it, defended it very well, and Colonel Donop, with fifty of his horse an<J thirty militia, by the common stratagem of two trumpeters sounding a march, as if fresh recruits were advancing, frightened the Irish into a flight, and they were so briskly pursued to Careigoncady-ford, that they lost near eighty men in this action.f

    For the next hundred years no incident occurred to require or suggest remark. Though letters patent had been obtained granting fairs and markets, Fermoy boasted no greater extent than a small village, all on the south side of the bridge,

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

32. Fairy woman at Labbacallee

    Labbacallee · townland · Cork

    A traveler thrown from his horse near Laibhe Colloch is approached by a fairy woman who leads him underground to a grand fairy palace filled with lords and ladies. There he drinks with the fairies and tests his strength by wrestling and boxing them.

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    " Here the sight nearly left me, whin I parceved a little ould 'oman rise out ov the ground, wid a red 'kerchief on her head, and a dirty check apron spread out afore her, an' she sed to me that was shiverin an' shakin like a wet dog in a sack, ' Shainus na Bo,' sis she, ' you drunken sot (and I as sober nearly as I am now), ' how dare you disturb me, an' I taking my cup of tay in comfort ? '

    " ' Ma'am,' sis I, quite bould, (though, by my troth, 'tis I that was frickened,) * I am very sorry to hinder you from takin your droppun of tay, but I'm a poor dissolute cratur ov a man that's goin astray, an', as you knows my name, though I don't now recollect that I ever had the pleasure of seein yoar purty face afore, I'd be extremely obliged if you'd give me a night's lodging.'

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 66

33. Headless huntsman's death at Castle Hyde deer park

    Castlehyde · townland · Cork · 1714–1727

    The headless horseman revealed he broke his neck in Castle Hyde deer park while serving as huntsman to the first Duhallow hunt during the reign of George I. His ghost was condemned to ride the road seeking a challenger until a mortal rode a mile with him.

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    a t it Brien Hegarty," said Headless, " you have won, I confess, and have a bold seat, and a sure hand. 'Tis over a hundred years since I broke my neck, in Castle Hyde deer park, where I was huntsman to the Duhallow hounds, and ever since I have been riding the road to get a man to ride a mile with me, and never succeeded till this night. You have dissolved the spell that kept me on the weary road, and deserve all the good I can give you. Fear no danger from man or beast. Ride with the tail-hound, never flinch from ditch, wall, or timber ; and as you stood to me, I'm the man that will stand to you."

    " ' But the master,' said I, ' he'll be my death — it's now very late, I'm thinking.'

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 54

34. Kilcolman Castle ruin described by visitor

    Kilcolman · townland · Cork

    A visitor describes Kilcolman Castle as a fast-perishing ruin with no visible traces of the fire that destroyed it. The stone stairway remains perfect, and a deep-recessed window with stone seats offers a view over the surrounding plain, evoking associations with Spenser and Raleigh.

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    " Kilcolman Castle is now a ruin, and a fast-perishing one. There are no signs about it that any of the things we have been telling once occurred within its walls ; the very traces of the fire have been washed out by the elements, and the memorials of the poet's ruin have passed away along with the tokens of his joy. But Mulla flows past it, even as it did then ; and the everlasting hills still keep their watch over the stern old building. When we saw it last, we took a sweet pleasure in climbing up the slippery stairway of stone, which is yet perfect, and thinking that Raleigh and Spenser often went it up and down together. And there was a deep-recessed window, with a stone seat on each side, and a view from it of a far-spreading tract of champaign country, and we pictured for ourselves the poet (as old Aubrey in his Lives has painted him), a little man, wearing short hair, with laced shirt collar and cuffs, seated on one of those chairs, and opposite him his Elizabeth, with those fayre golden tresses he so much loved. It was a lovely evening in the autumn of the year, and the sun was now westering his course towards the remote hills ; and that young couple sat there, watching with unspeaking rapture the magnificent sun's going down ; and the declining rays glistened on the surface of a small calm lake near them, and farther off were multiplied in the waters of a winding river, which sparkled in them like burnished steel or silver. Then, like a thick black curtain, darkness was slowly drawn over their prospect, and after a little while were heard tones of the evening hymn, and a low calm voice pleaded humbly in prayer, and soon after all sounds ceased, and the inmates of the castle were hushed in repose : then succeeded an hour or two of stillness, and after that was borne to us on the night wind the tramp of a thousand feet ; and louder they grew and yet louder, and they draw near that lonely building. And rude knocking was heard at its gate ; and the passage was forced in ; and lights flared up on all sides ; and there were shrieks and groans, and commingling cries of men engaged in deepest battle. And savage numbers prevailed, and the application for mercy was met by the sweep of the broadsword, or the thrust of the skean, or the low short laugh of derision. And the tumult grew less, and the cries died away, and then all was hushed in the silence of death.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 81

35. Mallow's warm mineral spa and its discovery

    Mallow · town · Cork

    Mallow's celebrated mineral spa springs from a limestone rock near the castle and was first noticed about sixty years before Dr. Smith's 1749 account. One spring, dedicated to St. Patrick, was formerly visited as a holy well; the medicinal virtues were credited to Dr. Rogers of Cork and a Mrs. Welstead's accidental trial.

    Read the passage

    " The first notice of these warm springs is said to have been about sixty years ago J; but for want of a certain knowledge of their qualities, they became neglected for medicinal use ; yet one has been much longer esteemed as a reputed holy well, dedicated to St. Patrick, and was formerly visited as such. The first hint of this water being applicable to the cure of diseases was given some years since, by Dr. Rogers, of Cork, who came to Mallow to attend a Mrs. Welstead, then in a very weak condition ; in particular, she kept no aliment on her stomach, and was so far gone that her discovery was despaired of. Upon an accidental trial, she found that the water of this spring was the only liquid she retained in her stomach, and therefore advised with the doctor as to its use, who, being present when some of this water was brought fresh from the well, to his surprise observed it to be very warm ; whereupon, to satisfy himself, he went to the spot, and found this same quality of heat, in a higher degree. The lady, with the consent of her physician, persisted in drinking this water, and was so considerably relieved, that she was soon able to go to Cork, when she was so much changed for the better that the doctor scarcely knew her again. This, as I am informed, was really what first gave credit to the medicinal virtues of this spring, and has occasioned it to be frequented every season by a considerable resort of people of fashion, both for health and pleasure. There is very little alteration by the thermometer in the heat or other quality of this water, in different seasons of the year ; yet in frosty weather, and a dry season, it is sensibly warmer, being then less impregnated with other water. By repeated trials, I found this water raised the mercury in

    * Smith's Cork, 327. f Vol. ii. 281. t This was written in 1749.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 88

36. Sir Richard Kyrle's iron-works near Banteer

    Banteer · town · Cork

    After the wars, Sir Richard Kyrle settled near Banteer bridge, erected iron-works, cut down a vast tract of woodland, and considerably improved the country. When the French threatened invasion in 1666, he offered to raise a troop of sixty horse.

    Read the passage

    night repulsed the cavalry under the command of Lord Muskerry, who was trying to advance to the relief of Limerick, crossed the Blackwater, and about half a mile east of Bantyre bridge came up with Lord Muskerry's troops posted on the high ground of Knockbruck, or Knockiclashy, and routed them with great slaughter. After the wars, Sir Richard Kyrle settled at this place. He erected iron-works near it, cut down a vast tract of wood, and considerably improved the country. When the French threatened to invade L-eland in 1666, this Sir Richard Kyrle offered Lord Orrery to raise a troop of sixty horse, of which his lordship informed the Duke of Ormond, and said, " The world had no better men than Sir Richard had, and he knew him to be an excellent officer." This estate Sir Richard sold to R. Newman, Esq.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 100

37. Sir Walter Raleigh's House at Myrtle Grove

    Myrtle Grove · street · Dublin

    Adjoining Youghal churchyard is Myrtle Grove, an Elizabethan mansion once occupied by Sir Walter Raleigh. The garden is reputedly where he first planted the potato in Ireland, brought from South America, and features yew trees said to be planted by him.

    Read the passage

    brave and enterprising Sir Walter Raleigh. In the garden opposite he is said to have planted the potato, which he brought from South America ; and the person left to take care of the grounds, imagining that the apple which grew on the stalk, was the part to be used, gathered it, and not liking the taste, neglected the roots, till the ground being dug afterwards to sow other grain, the potatoes were discovered there to have vastly increased. Tobacco is also reported to have been first introduced to Ireland from this port.

    The house is now in fine preservation, and well worth a visit ; it has a wainscotting of fine Irish oak, with carved panels, and the chimney-piece in the drawing-room is elaborately sculptured with grotesque figures. In the garden is a group of yew trees, here represented, said to have been planted by Raleigh. From a number of beautiful myrtletrees about the house, it owes its present name, Myrtle Grove ; and its courteous owner, Colonel Faunt, permits

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Along here is Myrtle Grove, an Elizabethan mansion adjoining Youghal churchyard, once occupied by the brave and enterprising Sir Walter Raleigh. In the garden he is said to have planted the potato, which he brought from South America. The person left to take care of the grounds, imagining that the apple which grew on the stalk was the part to be used, gathered it, and not liking the taste, neglected the roots. When the ground was afterwards dug to sow other grain, the potatoes were discovered there to have vastly increased. Tobacco is also reported to have been first introduced to Ireland from this port. The house is in fine preservation. It has wainscotting of fine Irish oak with carved panels, and the chimney-piece in the drawing-room is elaborately sculptured with grotesque figures. In the garden is a group of yew trees said to have been planted by Raleigh. From the beautiful myrtle trees about the house, it owes its name. Its courteous owner is Colonel Faunt.

38. Cappoquin castle and 1640s military engagements

    Cappoquin · town · Waterford · 1641–1645

    Cappoquin is a place of much antiquity, with tradition recording a castle built by the Fitzgerald family. During the 1641 war it was garrisoned by the Earl of Cork; Lord Broghill defeated insurgents there in 1642, and Lord Castlehaven took the castle in 1645.

    Read the passage

    We have reached Cappoquin, pleasantly situated in an angle on the north bank. This place is of much antiquity, and tradition relates of a castle built here by the Fitzgerald family. In the war of 1641, it was garrisoned by the Earl of Cork ; and the following year Lord Broghill, on his return from the relief of Knockmourne, with about 60 horse and 140 foot, defeated a strong party of the insurgents. In July, 1643, General Purcell, having assembled his army at this place to besiege Lismore, ravaged the surrounding country. In 1645 the castle was taken by Lord Castlehaven. The Earl of Cork built a bridge here, and an act passed 16 & 17 Car. 2. for building a new bridge. The country about this town is highly improved. Close by is Cappoquin House, the seat of Sir Richard Keane, Bt. of Belmont, Lieutenant Colonel of the Waterford Militia. His father was created a baronet in 1801, and dying in 1829, the title devolved on the present baronet. His brother John so distinguished himself in the army, that he was created Baron Keane in 1839. The house is a handsome mansion of hewn stone, built in a wellwooded demesne. The view commands the course of the river for a considerable distance, and is closed by the wooded hills of Dromana. There is a neat church, and commodious Roman Catholic chapel here, an excellent national school, and another school, under the care of the Cork Society. The principal street contains some good houses and shops. Close to the town is Tivoli, the well-situated villa of Henry Dennehy, Esq.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 34

39. Castletown Roche castle of the Lords Roche

    Castletownroche · town · Cork

    The country round Fermoy belonged to the Lords Roche, Viscounts Fermoy, who maintained a stately castle at Castletown Roche. The family's fortunes were tied to the legend of the doomed heir at Cairn Thierna.

    Read the passage

    About a mile south of Fermoy is a high hill, overlooking the town, and presenting a conspicuous appearance throughout the country, some addition being given to its natural elevation by a huge pile of stones on the summit. This is Cairn Thierna, or the Lord's Heap, ancUs said to owe its name to the following legend. The country round belonged to the Lords Roche, Viscounts Fermoy, and they had a stately castle at Castletown Roche ; but destiny was busy with this noble house, and the only child of the chieftain was doomed. At his birth a wise woman predicted he would be drownded before he reached his twenty-first year ; and to avert this calamity was, no doubt, an important object to his disconsolate parents. The absence of water was in such case desirable, and he might truly be said never to have seen that element in a greater body than a drinking vessel ; at all events, when he was growing to man's estate, he was never permitted to go near a stream, and a site was selected on which to build a castle, where he was to reside until the prophecy was proved untrue. The high hill near Fermoy being very remote from the dreaded element, was pitched on, and the gobaeen saer, or skilful architect, planned a castle that would only take a week to complete. The materials were all prepared, and the young Roche desired to see the place where he was to reside so soon. He had just attained his twentieth year, and the first week of the dreaded time was to see him in his new abode ; accordingly his wish was complied with, and he mounted the hill. Here, apart from danger, he was suffered to enjoy what was long withheld — his freedom. He ran about unattended ; no danger threatened there. Who shall resist the decrees of fate, or strive against its warnings ? The youth saw a large tub, and looked over the steep brim. It was filled with some glassy fluid, and, mirror-like, showed a faithful representation of himself in the bottom. His curiosity was roused to ascertain how this was. He climbed the steep side and fell in. This was the large vat holding water to be used for the mortar. The poor young man struggled but in vain ; the slippery sides gave no profiting aid ; his cries were soon stifled by the treacherous element, and when he was looked for they found his lifeless form. The prophecy was fulfilled. The building was of course neglected, and the stones lying on the hill witness the authenticity of the legend.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 61

40. Earl of Cork colonises Youghal with English Puritan settlers

    Youghal · town · Cork

    The first Earl of Cork purchased Sir Walter Raleigh's forfeited monastic lands in Elizabeth's reign and settled Youghal with Puritan colonists from Gloucestershire, Somersetshire, and Devonshire. These settlers became firm enemies of the Stuarts and their timely adhesion to Parliament relieved Cromwell's difficulties after Clonmel.

    Read the passage

    When the first Earl of Cork purchased from Sir Walter Raleigh the grants he had obtained of the monastic and other lands forfeited in Elizabeth's reign, he adopted the policy of colonising the towns in the vicinity of the Blackwater with settlers from England, chiefly from Gloucestershire, Somersetshire, and Devonshire. Of these settlers, the greater part had adopted Puritan principles, which exposed them to ecclesiastical penalties at home ; they were in the great civil war the most decided enemies of the Stuarts, and it was the timely adhesion of Youghal to the parliamentary cause which relieved Cromwell from the difficulties in which he was placed by the obstinate defence of Clonmel. Like most of the Puritans, those who settled in Youghal were firm believers in witchcraft, and tradition preserves the memory of several unhappy persons burned at the stake during the presence of this delusion. Glanvil's curious collection contains the trial of one of the Youghal witches, Florence Newton ; and it is one of the most singular exhibitions of credulity and barbarity recorded in the melancholy annals of the witch-mania. Some of the peculiarities of puritanism are still to be found in the families descended from the original Puritans ; but the most palpable monument of such rigidity is the venerable old church, the interior of which when last repaired was stripped of its collegiate character, and assimilated as much as possible to the severe plainness of the conventicle. Many of the followers of Cromwell and of William III., attracted by similarity of sentiment, in the families of the previous colonists, settled in or near Youghal, which with Bandon was long regarded as the great stronghold of what was called the Protestant interest in the south of Ireland. Several of the early settlers had been companions of Raleigh in his expeditions against the Spaniards, and there are some faint traces of their having kept up their old connection with the buccaneers. During several generations the spirit of naval adventure was rife in their families, and during the wars in the first half of the last century several privateers were fitted out and manned from Youghal, the crews of which were celebrated for their desperate bravery, which set all odds at defiance. Even so late as the last French war, Youghal sailors were distinguished in the navy by their readiness to defy the perils of storm and battle.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 10

41. Kilnatoora Castle demolished by local farmer

    Kilnatoora · townland · Cork

    Kilnatoora Castle, a Norman fortified residence, stood as one of the most perfect specimens of its kind in Ireland until a local farmer demolished much of the upper story and a beautiful stone window to obtain building materials. The farmer only stopped when he found the cement too strong, making quarrying cheaper.

    Read the passage

    protect their vassals and to enforce due payment of rent and feudal service. Some old peasants in the neighbourhood of Rhincrew averred that there were formerly some statues among these ruins, and they described them as representing the wellknown costume of the Templars, the open helmet, cross-handled sword, and crossed legs, which intimated service in Palestine. They attributed their destruction to the Iconoclast fury of Cromwell's followers, and the Puritans who succeeded them, but in some cases the peasants themselves have lent aid in the work of destruction. Higher up the little stream which runs into the Blackwater, below Rhincrew, stands the baronial castle of Kilnatoora, which until lately was one of the most perfect specimens of a Norman fortified residence in Ireland. A farmer in the neighbourhood demolished a great part of the upper story, and a beautiful stone window, to get materials to build an addition to his house, and only desisted when he found that, owing to the strength of the cement, it would be cheaper for him to obtain stones from a neighbouring quarry. Within an hour of our having heard this account from one of the persons who had actually taken part in this barbarous demolition, we met another peasant who ascribed the breach to Cromwell's cannon, and who was quite indignant when he found that we were in possession of what he did not deny to be the real state of the case.

    On the abolition of the order of Knights' Templars, it had been stipulated that

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 26

42. King James II's fright at the castle window

    Lismore · town · Waterford · 1689

    King James II dined in a room at Lismore Castle and, on looking out of the window, nearly fell back in terror at the precipitous drop of about a thousand feet to the Blackwater below.

    Read the passage

    King James II. dined in this room, and, on looking out of the window, nearly fell back in terror at its precipitate elevation over the river. In another apartment, Robert Boyle, the philosopher, " father of modern chemistry, and brother

    :

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

43. Submarine forest and peat bog on Youghal strand

    Youghal · town · Cork

    The long strand south of Youghal contains a submarine forest and peat bog worn by the sea. Vast quantities of turf are raised for fuel between high and low water marks, and trees of immense size, Irish elk horns, and animal bones have been dug up, evidence of the ocean's encroachment.

    Read the passage

    find that in 1 649 several parliamentary frigates entered the harbour, and were moored opposite the town. It would be dangerous for vessels of such size and burthen to attempt a passage at present. To the eye of the geologist the harbour presents evidences of having undergone still greater changes, and the traditions of the people and the Irish names of several localities singularly confirm the conclusions to which the deductions of science point. The long strand to the south of the town is a submarine forest, and peat-bog, worn by the sea, at some distant but not very remote age, speaking geologically, and the silent encroachments of ocean still continue ; so that if some barrier, similar to the dykes of Holland, be not constructed, there can be little doubt but that at some future time the sea will win the flat bog by which it is at present skirted, and the waves roll to the very foot of the range of hills beyond. We have seen vast quantities of peat, or, as it is called in Ireland, turf, raised for fuel on this strand, between high-water and low-water mark. Trees of immense size have been also dug up, and on some of these, nuts have been found in such a state of preservation, that on opening them the kernel was distinctly perceptible. A very perfect nut-tree was recently dug up, close to the low- water mark, and on it not merely the fruit but the leaves were perfect in every thing but colour. The horns of the Irish elk, and the bones of other animals, have been dug up amid the trees on this part of the strand, thus affording indisputable evidence of the encroachments of the ocean. Old people state, that within their recollection, the remains of some buildings might be seen under the water when the tide was very low. Finally, there is a tradition that Capel Island, which is now about a mile distant from the head-land of Knockadoon, was once so close to it that it could be reached by stepping-stones ; but this is a tradition too vague to warrant founding any argument on it.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 11

44. The Treachery Legend of Buttevant Castle

    Buttevant · town · Cork

    Buttevant Castle, also known as King John's Castle, was the chief seat of the O'Donegans. It was taken by David de Barry after a soldier was bribed to open the gates, resulting in the slaughter of the garrison. A local legend tells that the traitor's severed head yelled 'Treachery!' as it fell down the tower stairs.

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    The castle is said to have been the chief seat of the head of the O'Donegans, who resisted all efforts of the English when they attempted to take possession of it. Gold, however, effected an entrance when steel failed. David de Barry, commander of the besieging army, found means to corrupt a soldier of the garrison, who, when his turn as a sentinel came, opened the gates to the invaders, and the sleeping inmates never woke to this life. A meet reward awaited the traitor — his head was struck off with the rest ; and the legendary tale of Mr. Crofton Croker concludes with this notice : — " There was a small addition to this story related to me, as possessing equal claims to belief. The dissevered and ghastly head of the betrayer, as it was bounding down the stairs of one of the towers, yelled forth, in a sepulchral and terrible tone, the word — Treachery ! — treachery ! — treachery ! "

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 92

45. Mallow Castle reconnoitred by Col. Doness, 1689

    Mallow · town · Cork · 1689

    In September 1689, advancing from Tipperary with 1,100 horse and two regiments of Danish foot, Col. Doness was sent to destroy the bridge and reconnoitre the castle at Mallow. He reported 100 Protestant families in alarm from M'Donough assembling forces to plunder the town; troops were sent for protection and M'Donough's forces routed.

    Read the passage

    having advanced from Tipperary with 1100 horse, and two regiments of Danish foot, on 13th September, 1689, sent Col. Doness to destroy the bridge, and reconnoitre the castle. The colonel, on his return, reported that 100 Protestant families were in the greatest alarm, from M'Donough, one of King James's governors of counties, assembling forces for the purpose of plundering the town. On this intelligence, 100 men, and 50 dragoons, were sent for protection, and M'Donough's troops routed with great slaughter.

    The town is situated on the north bank of the Blackwater, in a valley, with a chain of hills running north and south, and its environs are well wooded, which insures a mild temperature. This genial climate, together with its mineral spa, for which it is celebrated, renders Mallow a fashionable resort for invalids. The spa springs from a limestone rock not far from the castle, and is not unlike, in its properties, to the hot wells of Bristol.*

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 88

46. Battle of Affane, 1564: Ormond vs Desmond

    Affane · townland · Waterford · 1564

    A bloody battle was fought at Affane on 1st February 1564 between the Earls of Ormond and Desmond, in which Desmond lost 300 men and was taken prisoner. The rivals later reconciled by shaking hands through an aperture cut in an oak door, each fearing assassination.

    Read the passage

    This wing was in good preservation. The precipitous declivities which swept down from the rocky foundation of the house to the river had been cut into terrace gardens, a fashion still observable at the seats of the ancient nobility of Munster." This is the reputed birthplace of the old Countess of Desmond, who, at the age of 140 years, crossed the Channel, and travelled to London, to demand and obtain from James I. the restoration of her jointure, of which the attainder of the Earl of Desmond deprived her. Her death is said to have been caused from falling off a cherry-tree, into which she had climbed to get at the fruit. In Seward's " Topographia Hibernica," Dublin, 1795, this is noticed as a seat of the Earl of Grandison, who had an estate of about 6000/. a year in this county, and stated to be built on the foundation of an ancient castle, formerly the chief seat of the Fitzgeralds of Decies. The castle, with all its furniture, was burned by the Irish. Near at hand, at Affane, a "bloody battle" was fought, on 1st February, 1564, between the Irish Guelphs and Ghibellines, the Earls of Ormond and Desmond, in which the latter had 300 men killed, and he himself, the chief Geraldine, taken prisoner by his ancient, implacable foeman, the Butler. When the victors were carrying the fierce chieftain in triumph on their shoulders from the field, the leader of the Ormond party rode up, and tauntingly inquired, " Where is now the great Earl of Desmond ? " Though faint, and a captive, the wounded chief indignantly replied, " Where but in his proper place ! still on the necks of the Butlers." On a reconciliation being effected between these great rivals, they shook hands : an aperture was cut in an oak door, through which they performed that greeting, each fearing to be poniarded by the other !

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 32

47. Buttevant Abbey and the Battle of Knockninoss

    Buttevant · town · Cork · 1647

    The ruins of Buttevant Abbey contain the tomb of its founder, David de Barry, and were repaired for Catholic worship in 1604. Skulls and bones of soldiers from the 1647 Battle of Knockninoss were kept near the entrance, a battle where the tune Ollistrune's March originated.

    Read the passage

    Near the entrance were a number of skulls and bones, perishable remnants of the soldiers who fell in the battle of Knockninoss, a few miles distant. This engagement took place in the year 1647, between the English parliamentary forces, commanded by the Earl of Inchiquin, and the Irish, under the guidance of Lord Taaffe. The latter were defeated with great slaughter, and a vote of something more substantial than thanks passed to the successful general.

    It was in this battle the piece of music so generally played on the bag-pipes — Ollistrune's March — earned its place among our favourite tunes. Mr. Crofton Croker thus refers to it : — "A party of Scotch Highlanders in the Irish army, headed by Alexander M'Donnell, or M'Allisdrum, contested their ground in the most determined and gallant manner, and were inhumanly butchered by the victors. That wild and monstrous piece of music, known by the name of Ollistrune's

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 93

48. Famous fox hunt from Ryder's Brake to Kilmurry

    Kilmurry · townland · Cork

    A dying huntsman named Davy Walsh sings the 'Modiran ruadh' (Red Fox's Elegy), reminding the narrator of a famous local fox hunt that ran from Ryder's Brake to Kilmurry. The memory evokes the rich hunting traditions associated with the area.

    Read the passage

    •• I went into the passage, at the end of which was the apartment, then occupied by my poor huntsman. On reaching the door I was induced to pause, as the voice of the dying man chaunting the Modi ran ruadh f. came distinctly on mine It was many a long year since I last heard him sing it, after the famous run from Ryder's Brake to Kilmurry. and in deep emotion I listened to the once manly and powerful voice, now alas ! shrunk to • treble pipes, and whistling in its sound.' The words were audible and the refrain as follows : —

    • •• Good morrow, fox ! " M Sarvint, Sir ! " M Pray what have you heen ate' " A fine fat goose I stole from you : N won't you come and taste i

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 71

49. Folk tradition attributing Kilnatoora damage to Cromwell

    Kilnatoora · townland · Cork

    A peasant encountered near Kilnatoora ascribed the breach in the castle walls to Cromwell's cannon and was indignant when told the real cause was a local farmer's demolition. This illustrates how Cromwell's name became attached to ruined buildings in popular tradition regardless of the actual cause.

    Read the passage

    protect their vassals and to enforce due payment of rent and feudal service. Some old peasants in the neighbourhood of Rhincrew averred that there were formerly some statues among these ruins, and they described them as representing the wellknown costume of the Templars, the open helmet, cross-handled sword, and crossed legs, which intimated service in Palestine. They attributed their destruction to the Iconoclast fury of Cromwell's followers, and the Puritans who succeeded them, but in some cases the peasants themselves have lent aid in the work of destruction. Higher up the little stream which runs into the Blackwater, below Rhincrew, stands the baronial castle of Kilnatoora, which until lately was one of the most perfect specimens of a Norman fortified residence in Ireland. A farmer in the neighbourhood demolished a great part of the upper story, and a beautiful stone window, to get materials to build an addition to his house, and only desisted when he found that, owing to the strength of the cement, it would be cheaper for him to obtain stones from a neighbouring quarry. Within an hour of our having heard this account from one of the persons who had actually taken part in this barbarous demolition, we met another peasant who ascribed the breach to Cromwell's cannon, and who was quite indignant when he found that we were in possession of what he did not deny to be the real state of the case.

    On the abolition of the order of Knights' Templars, it had been stipulated that

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 26

50. Kanturk Castle, chief seat of the McCarthys

    Kanturk · town · Cork

    The castle of Kanturk, situated on the Allow (Alio) river about three miles north of the Blackwater, is described as one of the strongest ruins in Ireland. It was the chief seat of the McCarthys, kings of Desmond.

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    To the north of the river is Kanturk, about three miles distant, situate on the Alio river, which joins the Blackwater not far from Ballymaquick Bridge. Immediately before the Alio falls into the Blackwater it is crossed by a good bridge, called Leader's Bridge. The castle of Kanturk is one of the strongest ruins in Ireland. This was the chief seat of the McCarthys, kings of Des-

    158

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 101

51. Henry II promulgates English law at Lismore, 1172

    Lismore · town · Waterford · 1172

    According to Matthew Paris, Henry II first promulgated English law in Ireland at Lismore in 1172, where the chiefs of Munster and Irish prelates swore allegiance. A synod at Lismore, whose bishop was the pope's legate, arranged the terms under which Henry obtained sovereignty of Ireland.

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    The historic recollections of Lismore are not confined to its ancient renown as a literary institution, or the fame of its castle. Here, according to Matthew Paris, Henry II. first promulgated English law in L-eland in 1172. After landing at Waterford he marched to this place, where he was met by the chiefs of Munster, who, with the archbishops, bishops, and abbots of Ireland, swore allegiance, and gave him a charter confirming the kingdom of Ireland to him and his heirs for ever.

    The records of this important transaction are both scanty and contradictory ; but the weight of evidence goes to prove that the Irish prelates on this occasion sacrificed the independence of their country to a foreign monarch, on condition of having their ecclesiastical privileges maintained against the usurpations of the

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 40

52. O'Leary hospitality tradition at Millstreet

    Millstreet · town · Cork · 1774–1784

    The country around Millstreet once belonged to the O'Learys, lords of the district called Iveleary. A venerable descendant of the family, some sixty or seventy years back, would station himself on the road into Millstreet and invite all respectable strangers to partake of his hospitality.

    Read the passage

    This country once belonged to the O'Learys, who were lords of several castles, and the district called Iveleary. There are descendants of the family still living ; one of the race, no ignoble representative, was accustomed, some sixty or seventy years back, to take his station on the high road leading into Millstreet, and invite all comers to partake of his hospitality. He is represented as a fine specimen of an Irish gentleman, of venerable benevolent appearance. He was a justice of peace, and one whose word was law. His look bespoke authority. He suffered no stranger of respectable appearance to pass through Millstreet, without introducing himself to him and courteously requesting the pleasure of his company to discuss his good cheer.

    In the Rev. H. Townsend's Survey of Cork, he gives an instance of the hospitality of O'Leary : — Some friends of his arrived at Millstreet, and being very tired wished to retire early to rest. O'Leary, who was acquainted with one of the party, prevailed on them to sup at his house. They went with a fixed resolve neither to drink or remain longer than was necessary for the repast ; but such was O'Leary's power of pleasing, that they willingly prolonged their stay till morning, and were led imperceptibly from one bottle to another till it became no easy matter to discover where they had their lodgings. A worthy scion of the honourable house — McCarthy O'Leary, Esq. — resides at Coomlegaun in the neighbourhood, and is owner of a large portion of the town. Millstreet has vastly increased, containing more than three hundred houses, and has a considerable traffic, its chief importance being derived from the establishment of a military station.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 108

53. Lismore Cathedral Church of St. Carthagh

    Lismore · town · Waterford · 1173–1663

    The Cathedral Church near Lismore Castle, dedicated to St. Carthagh, is the only surviving ancient church of as many as twenty formerly on the site. It was threatened with burning in 1173 by Raymond le Gros and Strongbow, damaged in Elizabeth's reign by Edmund Fitzgibbon the White Knight, and restored in 1663 by the Earl of Cork, with a later square tower and spire added.

    Read the passage

    The Cathedral Church is close to the castle ; the approach is from the town, through an avenue with a fine row of trees. It is the only remaining ancient church of those formerly here (some say as many as twenty), and was dedicated to St. Carthagh. This sacred edifice was often in considerable danger. In 1 1 73, when Raymond le Gros and Strongbow wasted the Decies country, they extorted a large sum of money from the then bishop to prevent the cathedral from being burned. The great care bestowed did not always avail. It sustained considerable damage in Elizabeth's reign from Edmund Fitzgibbon, called the White Knight, so called most probably from the colour of his armour. It was restored in 1663, at the expense of the Earl of Cork ; and has been lately repaired, when a square tower, surmounted by a light and taper spire, was added. The entrance is at the extremity of the south transept, under a pure Norman arch. The windows of the choir are of stained glass, and the bishop's throne and prebends' stalls richly carved oak. There are many tasteful monuments to the deceased members of families in the neighbourhood — Musgrave, Chearnley, Lovett, and others. Among the more striking are the tablets to the memory of Archdeacon Ryan and Dean Scott. One ancient tomb, inscribed to the family of Mac Grath, dated 1548, is richly sculptured; on the side stones are figures of the apostles in bas-relief, the upper stone is divided into compartments ; time has nearly obliterated the design and inscription.

    Near the church are two small caves, and one in the grove near the castle.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 40

54. Castle Hyde and the Rock of the Shield

    Castlehyde · townland · Cork

    Castle Hyde, the seat of John Hyde, was anciently called Carrig-a-neady, or the Rock of the Shield. The demesne contains the ivy-clad ruins of a castle belonging to the Condons, and the lands were granted to Sir Arthur Hyde by Queen Elizabeth after the forfeiture of the Earl of Desmond.

    Read the passage

    The splendid demesne now opening before us, and embracing both sides of the river, spreading its dark glades of forest trees to the summits of the gentle hills, is Castle Hyde, the noble seat of John Hyde, Esq. This place was anciently called Carrig-a-neady, or the Rock of the Shield ; and the remains of an old castle of the Condons, clad in a rich mantle of ivy, still rears its venerable head, amid the environing trees. The ancestor of the present proprietor, Sir Arthur Hyde, obtained a grant of 6000 acres of the land forfeited by the Earl of Desmond, from Queen Elizabeth, as a reward for his military services. The entrance is massive and unostentatious. Two sphynxes, richly sculptured, repose on the piers. The avenue, which is very spacious, leads down a hill towards the river, but suddenly bending to the east, opens a view of calm and tranquil beauty. In front the dark river rolls its noiseless course, gently — as if it feared to wake the slumber of the

    wide old woods. A verdant lawn carpets the land to the river's brim, and stretches up the rising ground opposite. The house fronts the river, and its central portion

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 74

55. Clonmeen church and O'Callaghan Augustinian monastery

    Clonmeen · parish · Cork

    The parish church at Clonmeen, a plain edifice without spire or tower, stands in an old graveyard and was the burial place of the O'Callaghans. According to Colgan, the O'Callaghans founded a monastery here for Augustinian friars, of which a ruined wall near the church may be the last remnant.

    Read the passage

    A little to the west, the south bank displays prostrate relics of feudal times. Half a ruined flanking tower, portion of a lofty wall, and remains of a parallel, constitute all that remains of Clonmeen Castle. This castle was destroyed during the wars of 1641, and several of the cannon balls which battered the walls have been found. It presents a melancholy spectacle of faded glory, as it must have been of great strength, presenting, even in decay, the lingering traces of former might. The lord of the soil, Mr. Grehan, mentioned to me his intention of restoring something of its pristine strength. Yet westward is the parish church, a plain edifice, without spire or tower, standing in an old graveyard. This was the burial place of the O'Callaghans, who, according to Colgan, founded a monastery here for Augustine friars. Most probably the portion of ruined wall close to the church is the remnant left by time to mark the spot hallowed by the piety of the monks of old. Around are numerous tombstones, marking where

    " The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 98

56. Collegiate Church of Youghal founded by Earl of Desmond

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1464–1595

    The College of Youghal was founded in 1464 by Thomas Earl of Desmond, and its church was later repaired by the Earl of Cork. The foundation charter and endowments were confirmed by Popes Julius, Paul, and others. Around 1595, Nathaniel Baxter Warden disposed of the college revenues and demised them to Sir Thomas Norris and later Sir Walter Raleigh.

    Read the passage

    Before entering the town by the Cork 'road, are seen the remains of a strong building, over the sea. A tower is in good preservation. It is said to have been a light-house, which its lofty position seems well adapted for. There are several relics of ancient devotion ; one of the finest ruins is that of the Collegiate Church, represented in Mr. Creswick's view. The College of Youghal was founded in 1464, by Thomas Earl of Desmond ; this church was repaired, at a later period, by the Earl of Cork. The foundation charter, and several endowments presented to it, were confirmed by Popes Julius, Paul, and others. It was suffered to enjoy its revenues for some time after the Eeformation. Nath. Baxter Warden, about 1595, finding its tenure precarious, and resolved to anticipate the Government, caused the college revenues to be disposed of, and demised them and the house to Sir Thomas Norris, then Lord President of Minister. They were afterwards Walter Raleigh.

    The ancient church of Youghal was the finest specimen of the pointed English or Norman style of architecture in Ireland. It consisted of a nave, transept, and choir, with a square belfry or tower on the north side, about fifty feet high, which is still in good repair. The choir is now roofless and deserted ; its magnificent eastern window, glorious even in decay, fills the mind with melancholy when seen as the stranger enters the churchyard ; and this impression is not removed by the condition of that part of the ancient building still preserved in repair for divine service, namely, the nave and a portion of the ancient aisles. In the middle of the last century, when the old roof was repaired, the person employed as architect was so utterly incompetent that he quite destroyed the original design ; at the same time the painted ceiling of the interior was removed, and a uniform coat of white-wash substituted in its place. Pews and galleries were built according to the taste, or rather the caprice, of the several parishioners, and though several

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 13

57. Destruction of Clogheen and insurgent retaliation

    Clogheen · town · Tipperary · 1643

    In 1643, the garrison of Lismore destroyed Clogheen. In retaliation, insurgents burned thatched houses, killed sixty inhabitants, and took prisoners.

    Read the passage

    5000 Irish, under Sir Richard Beling, but was bravely defended by the Earl's son, Lord Broghill, and the assailants compelled to retire. In 1643, a party of insurgents, in retaliation for the destruction of Clogheen by the garrison of Lismore, burned a number of thatched houses, killed sixty of the inhabitants, and made several prisoners. And, in the same year, General Purcell united his forces with those of Lord Muskerry, and laid siege to the castle. After a week, a cessation of arms was agreed to, and the besiegers withdrew. The castle suffered much in this war, and was subsequently burned by Lord Castlehaven, in 1645. It was somewhat repaired soon after, for we find, in 1686, the Earl of Clarendon, in his tour through Munster, slept within the walls ; and again, in 1689, it was visited by James II. In 1785, the Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, held a council here, and issued several proclamations. The castle, with its appurtenances, descended from the Earls of Cork and Burlington, by marriage, in 1748, of Lady Charlotte Boyle with William Cavendish, fourth Duke of Devonshire, the ancestor of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

58. Fermoy's druidic origins and Magh Feine sanctuary

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    King Fiach Muillethan of Munster granted this territory to the druid Mogruith, from whom it was called Dal-Mogruith. Mogruith made it a sanctuary, erecting altars and places of worship on the high land, some of which still remained, giving the plain the name Magh Feine, or the sacred plain, from which Fermoy derives.

    Read the passage

    254, Fiach Muillethan, king of Munster, bestowed the greater part of this country on the Druid, Mogruith, from whom it obtained the name of Dal-Mogruith. The druid, on coming into possession of this country, converted it into a kind of sanctuary, and on the high land which bounds it erected a number of altars and places of worship, some of which yet remain, hence called Magh Feine, or the sacred plain. The inhabitant was called Fier Magh Feine, or the man of the sacred plain, or Fier Magh, whence Fermoy.* The next account connects this place with religion in a purer form. A Cistertian abbey, called " Our Lady de Castro Dei," was founded here, in 1270, according to an Irish MS., though Archall, in his Monasticon Hibernicum, p. 69., mentions the prior in 1226. The founder was Sir Richard de Rupella, who was Lord Justice of Ireland in 1261. The monks were brought hither from Suir Abbey, in the county of Tipperary, and afterwards they received an accession of members from Furness Abbey in Lancashire.

    In 1591, a grant was made by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Richard Grenville, Knt., and his heirs, of this monastery, and the lands appurtenant, containing by estimate 550 acres, at the rent of 15/. 185. Ad. Irish money. These lands were afterwards assigned by the Lord Treasurer of England to Sir George Harvey, for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge was built over the river here, with thirteen arches, anno 1689, and cost 7500/.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Fermoy, the ground holds an old story. Fiach Muillethan, king of Munster, bestowed the greater part of this country on the druid Mogruith, and from him it took the name Dal-Mogruith. Mogruith, on coming into possession, converted it into a kind of sanctuary. On the high land that bounds it he erected a number of altars and places of worship, some of which yet remain. The plain was called Magh Feine, the sacred plain. The inhabitant was called Fier Magh Feine, the man of the sacred plain, or Fier Magh, whence Fermoy. The place later connected to religion in a purer form. A Cistercian abbey, Our Lady de Castro Dei, was founded here in 1270, according to an Irish manuscript, though Archall in his Monasticon Hibernicum mentions the prior in 1226. The founder was Sir Richard de Rupella, Lord Justice of Ireland in 1261. The monks were brought from Suir Abbey in Tipperary, and later received members from Furness Abbey in Lancashire. In 1591, Queen Elizabeth granted the monastery and its lands to Sir Richard Grenville, 550 acres at a rent of 15 pounds, 1 shilling, and 8 pence Irish money. The Lord Treasurer of England assigned these lands to Sir George Harvey for the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several other lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A stone bridge of thirteen arches was built over the river here in 1689, costing 7500 pounds.

59. Legendary dispute over the three fertile valleys

    near Golden Vale · locality · Limerick

    According to Keating's History of Ireland, a quarrel arose between the brothers Heremon and Heber over the possession of three of the most delightful valleys in Ireland. Two of these were the valley of the Blackwater and the Golden Vale in Tipperary, and Heber's wife demanded the third from Heremon.

    Read the passage

    Peace was not long permitted to the country under the new dynasty. A beautiful valley in the territories assigned to Heremon was the cause of the quarrel which arose. The particulars are thus stated by Keating, in his History of Ireland : — " The occasion of the dispute was the possession of three of the most delightful valleys in the whole island : two of these * lay in the division of Heber Fion, and he received the profits of them ; but his wife, being a woman of great pride and ambition, envied the wife of Heremon the enjoyment of her delightful valley, and therefore persuaded her husband to demand the valley of Heremon ; and, upon a refusal, to gain possession of it by the sword ; for she passionately vowed she never would be satisfied till she was called the queen of the three most fruitful valleys in the island." Alas ! for mankind, that woman's gentle nature should be distorted and inflamed by pride and wild ambition, engendered by envy and jealousy. Female influence over men, when desire to please predominates, is undeniably potent — all consideration, save the accomplishment of the wish of the loved one, is entirely lost sight of, and thus injustice is done — the most sacred ties are violated — most disastrous woes produced, to gratify the caprice or whim of some thoughtless and inconsiderate object of attachment. The refusal of Heremon to comply with the wish of his brother's queen, and part with his territory, led to a battle between them on the plains of Giesiol, where Heber lost his life, leaving Heremon sole possessor of the kingdom.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 7

60. Battle of Giesiol between Heremon and Heber

    Geashill · town · Offaly

    According to Keating, the refusal of Heremon to surrender his valley to his brother's queen led to a battle on the plains of Giesiol. Heber lost his life in this battle, leaving Heremon sole possessor of the kingdom.

    Read the passage

    Peace was not long permitted to the country under the new dynasty. A beautiful valley in the territories assigned to Heremon was the cause of the quarrel which arose. The particulars are thus stated by Keating, in his History of Ireland : — " The occasion of the dispute was the possession of three of the most delightful valleys in the whole island : two of these * lay in the division of Heber Fion, and he received the profits of them ; but his wife, being a woman of great pride and ambition, envied the wife of Heremon the enjoyment of her delightful valley, and therefore persuaded her husband to demand the valley of Heremon ; and, upon a refusal, to gain possession of it by the sword ; for she passionately vowed she never would be satisfied till she was called the queen of the three most fruitful valleys in the island." Alas ! for mankind, that woman's gentle nature should be distorted and inflamed by pride and wild ambition, engendered by envy and jealousy. Female influence over men, when desire to please predominates, is undeniably potent — all consideration, save the accomplishment of the wish of the loved one, is entirely lost sight of, and thus injustice is done — the most sacred ties are violated — most disastrous woes produced, to gratify the caprice or whim of some thoughtless and inconsiderate object of attachment. The refusal of Heremon to comply with the wish of his brother's queen, and part with his territory, led to a battle between them on the plains of Giesiol, where Heber lost his life, leaving Heremon sole possessor of the kingdom.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 7