Name: The Blackwater in Munster;
Author: J[ames] R[oderick] O'Flanagan (1814–)

Cromwell makes Youghal his winter headquarters

Youghal · town · Cork · 1649–1650

When Cromwell visited Youghal in 1649 the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made it his headquarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned and embarked for England.

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In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly assaulted Youghal, but was repulsed, with the loss of fifty of his men. In 1641, it again became the scene of war. The Earl of Cork shut himself up in the town, and defended it against the insurgents at his own expense, with 1000 foot and 60 horse, in addition to which, the townsmen maintained fifteen companies. The besieged received succours in 1642, Sir Charles Vavasour, with his regiment of 1000 men, landed with some difficulty. The earl held sessions here soon after, at which the insurgent chiefs were indicted for high treason. The Earl of Cork died the year after in this town. In 1644 the native Irish were expelled, and their property seized. In 1645 it was again besieged by the Earl of Castlehaven, but the defenders held out until Lord Broghill arrived, and the siege was raised. When Cromwell visited Youghal, in 1649, the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made it his head-quarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned, and embarked here for England. By letters patent under the privy seal, dated February 14. 1660, their estates and franchises were restored to such of the inhabitants, being " innocent Papists," who had been deprived of them during Cromwell's usurpation. On the 2d August, 1690, Youghal surrendered to King William III., who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. The importance of taking Youghal appeared during the continuance of the siege of Limerick, as it was a check upon the garrison of Cork, and the wandering troops called Rapparees. On the 9th August, the governor of Youghal marched to Castle Martyr, where he defeated a large number of men with a few troops, and seized the castle. In 1696, the townsmen of Youghal, having manned a boat with forty seamen and soldiers, took a French privateer that lay at anchor under Cable

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Newmarket: ancient ford and Aldworth grant

Newmarket · town · Cork · 1603–1685

Newmarket's ancient name was Ahatrasne, meaning 'the place of the ford,' now replaced by a bridge. James I granted the forfeited M'Auliffe estates to the Aldworth family, and the market patent was confirmed by Charles II.

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Distant only a few miles is Newmarket, built on a small stream, that falls into the Oondala. It consists principally of two streets, crossing each other at right angles. The inhabitants number above 1000. The ancient name of this place was Ahatrasne, or " the place of the ford," which ford is now superseded by the commodious bridge near the entrance of the town. James I. made a grant of the property, of which this town is part, to the Aldworth family, part of the forfeited estates of the M'Auliffes. There was a patent for holding a market — whence the name Newmarket, confirmed by Charles II. A conflict took place at Scarteen, in 1822, between the military commanded by Captain Kippock and Lieut. Green, and the Whiteboys, in which the latter were defeated. — Handsome pieces of plate testified the value of the officers' intrepidity and conduct in the minds of the gentry of the district.
Newmarket House, the seat of R. R. Aldworth, Esq., lord of the manor, is a spacious mansion, of cut limestone, well situated in a finely planted and picturesque demesne. Some of the trees are very aged : an avenue of ash is said to have been planted in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 103

Ardmore as ancient mouth of the Blackwater

Ardmore · town · Waterford

Ancient author Necham records that the river Avenmore flowed by Lismore and was seen entering the sea at Ardmore, confirming that the Blackwater once discharged near Whiting Bay. Ardmore's former importance as a bishop's see is attributed to this ancient river outlet.

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Taking all these circumstances into consideration, and comparing them with the present aspect of the country, we are led to the following conclusions, which will be found to agree in their results with the accounts given by geologists of the changes in the embouchures of several rivers in America. The broad of Youghal, or wide space into which the river expands below Rhincrew and above the town, must be regarded as originally a lake bounded by wooded swamps ; indeed it retains much of the character of a lake at the present day. From this the water flowed to the sea by two channels, of which the larger, or at least the more navigable, flowed through the valley that now ends in Whiting Bay, and hence arose the ancient importance of Ardmore, now an insignificant village, but once so important as to have been a bishop's see. The closing of the mouth of the Whiting Bay branch was probably gradual ; but it may have been accelerated by some violent storm, or other convulsion of nature, and the river then worked out for itself a wider channel through the Youghal branch, at the same time a greater tidal action was brought to bear on the swampy forest, which is partly submerged beneath the sea, and partly covered by the sand and shingle of the long strand. This change took place previous to the English invasion ; but when Henry II. came to Lismore, Youghal had not yet been founded, or at least was a place of such little consequence, that no one appeared to offer its allegiance to the monarch. The town was probably founded by the Geraldines, and other Anglo-Norman adventurers, and colonised from Bristol, with which city it has always continued to be intimately associated. Its great value to the Anglo-Normans was the facility which it offered them for obtaining aid from England ; and on this account they established a light-house, the ruins of which still exist, under the name of the Round Tower ; and richly endowed a nunnery, under the condition that the nuns should see that the light was regularly maintained. This condition of tenure was instituted as an appeal to the religion and the gallantry of the native Irish, who were deterred from injuring the light which guided reinforcements to the invaders by a reluctance to offer violence to consecrated females. We have been induced to dwell at some length on the formation of this harbour, because we know of no other instance in which an interesting geographical problem is so curiously

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 11

Drisliane Castle built by Dermot MacCarthy

Drishane · townland · Cork

Drisliane Castle on the Blackwater was built by Dermot MacCarthy, son of Teague, Lord Muskerry, who died in 1448. It is of very ancient structure with traces of being a stronghold, and from its summit views extend to Killarney, Mangerton, the Paps, and Macgillicuddy's Reeks.

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This castle was built by Dermot Mac Carthy, son of Teague, Lord Muskerry, who died in 1448. It is of very ancient structure, and bears evident traces of having been a stronghold. Its proximity to the strong castles in its vicinity leads to the conjecture that it must have had other works for defence than now appear. From the summit a splendid view is obtained ; the eye travels along the ridge of mountains from that of Claragh, back of the castle, behind Millstreet, to Killarney, with its charming lakes, twenty miles distant, and takes in the majestic Mangerton, the Paps, the wooded Toomies, and the high reeks of Macgillicuddy. Among a few handsome seats close by are Coole House, H. O'Donnell, Esq. ; Mount Leader, H. Leader, Esq. ; and Rathduane, J. E. M'Carthy, Esq.
After a short distance we reach Millstreet, situate on the south bank of the Blackwater. The village, a century back, consisted of a small inn, a mill, and some half dozen cabins. Of the inn mention is made in a letter written by Derrick the poet, in 1760, and his account was also evidence of the desire of the peasantry to show their title to respectability. He says, " The inn at Millstreet, however indifferent, is a perfect palace compared to the spot where we slept the night before. The rain continuing to pour heavily, we stopped at a wretched hovel on the confines of an extensive, bleak, rugged mountain, where they collect the dues of a turnpike. They showed us into a miserable cabin, in which there was something that wore the appearance of a bed. Mine host of the cottage, whose name was Haly, had more importance than a grandee of Spain. He told us that

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 107

Earl of Cork defends Youghal in 1641

Youghal · town · Cork · 1641–1643

In 1641 the Earl of Cork shut himself up in Youghal and defended it at his own expense with 1000 foot and 60 horse, while townspeople maintained fifteen companies. He died in the town the following year.

Read the passage

In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly assaulted Youghal, but was repulsed, with the loss of fifty of his men. In 1641, it again became the scene of war. The Earl of Cork shut himself up in the town, and defended it against the insurgents at his own expense, with 1000 foot and 60 horse, in addition to which, the townsmen maintained fifteen companies. The besieged received succours in 1642, Sir Charles Vavasour, with his regiment of 1000 men, landed with some difficulty. The earl held sessions here soon after, at which the insurgent chiefs were indicted for high treason. The Earl of Cork died the year after in this town. In 1644 the native Irish were expelled, and their property seized. In 1645 it was again besieged by the Earl of Castlehaven, but the defenders held out until Lord Broghill arrived, and the siege was raised. When Cromwell visited Youghal, in 1649, the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made it his head-quarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned, and embarked here for England. By letters patent under the privy seal, dated February 14. 1660, their estates and franchises were restored to such of the inhabitants, being " innocent Papists," who had been deprived of them during Cromwell's usurpation. On the 2d August, 1690, Youghal surrendered to King William III., who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. The importance of taking Youghal appeared during the continuance of the siege of Limerick, as it was a check upon the garrison of Cork, and the wandering troops called Rapparees. On the 9th August, the governor of Youghal marched to Castle Martyr, where he defeated a large number of men with a few troops, and seized the castle. In 1696, the townsmen of Youghal, having manned a boat with forty seamen and soldiers, took a French privateer that lay at anchor under Cable

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Fermoy village and the saying 'All on one side like Fermoy'

Fermoy · townland · Cork

For a century after the Williamite conflict, Fermoy remained a small village entirely on the south side of the bridge, consisting of a carriers' inn and a few cabins, which originated the proverb 'All on one side, like Fermoy.' Several good country seats were in the neighbourhood, including Mount Glissan (later Bellevue), Straw Hall, and Bettyville.

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For the next hundred years no incident occurred to require or suggest remark. Though letters patent had been obtained granting fairs and markets, Fermoy boasted no greater extent than a small village, all on the south side of the bridge,
* Seward's Top. Hib. Fermoy. f Smith's Cork, vol. ii. p. 213.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, Fermoy stayed a small village for a hundred years. Letters patent had granted fairs and markets, but it was no more than a few cabins on the south side of the bridge. That gave rise to the saying, "All on one side, like Fermoy."

Knockmealdown: burial of Mr. Ecles on the summit

near Knockmealdown Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Waterford

Knockmealdown, rising about 2,600 feet above sea level, is the burial place of Mr. Ecles, a gentleman who resided many years at Youghal and wrote tracts on electricity. He selected the mountain top as his last resting place and lies buried there with his dog and his gun.

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Vast tracts of wood stretch over the expanse the eye traverses, and the distance is closed by a well-defined range of mountain. High over all soars Knockmeledown. Its elevation is somewhere about 2600 feet above the level of the sea. Mr. Ecles, a gentleman who resided many years at Youghal, and wrote some tracts on electricity, selected as his last earthly tenement the top of this mountain, where he lies buried with his dog and his gun.
At a little distance from the river, on the road between Clashmore and Cappoquin, is the neat village of Villierstown, founded by the last Earl of Grandison, with the hope of introducing the linen manufactory into the south of Ireland, by establishing here a colony of Protestant weavers. Beyond this general fact, we could learn nothing of the experiment, not even to what extent the original plan was acted upon, or when it was abandoned. There is, however, an average congregation every Sunday at the village church ; and the incumbent, the Rev. Philip Homan, has the happiness of being equally beloved by his Protestant and Catholic parishioners. This distinction is shared by his neighbour, the Rev. Mr. Mackesy, rector of Clashmore ; and it is gratifying to add, that when the Protestant clergymen were reduced to difficulties some years ago, by the refusal to pay tithe,

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 32

Mallow town in 1641: two hundred houses and garrison

Mallow · town · Cork · 1641

In 1641 Mallow consisted of 200 houses occupied by English settlers, thirty strongly built and slated. Lord Mountgarret marched Irish forces against the town; Captain Jephson's castle was committed to Arthur Bettesworth with 200 men, arms, and three cannons.

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In 1641 the town was of considerable size. It consisted of 200 houses, occupied by English settlers, thirty of which were strongly built and slated. On the occasion of the insurrectioc of that period, the Lord Mountgarret marched with the Irish forces against the town ; the castle was then committed by its owner, Captain Jephson, to the charge of Arthur Bettesworth, with a garrison of 200 men, and an abundant supply of arms, and three cannons. The Short Castle was also defended by Lieutenant Williamson, who, after repeated assaults, and several breaches made in the walls, most of his men being slain, was forced to capitulate upon terms ; but, finding his opponents not disposed to abide by their agreement, he resolutely snatched up a sword, forced his way through them with his remaining party, and got into the castle still held out by Bettesworth.
An account of the conduct of these parties towards each other shows the careless indifference of the soldiery of both sides, as to whether they drank together or fought together.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 87

Old castle in the Earl of Mountcashel's demesne

Moorepark · townland · Cork

After a fast fox hunt from Dunmahon to Moorpark, crossing the Funcheon twice and running through the woods of Ballyclough, the fox escaped into an earth beneath an old castle in the Earl of Mountcashel's demesne. Only five of forty-five riders lasted the full two-hour-and-ten-minute run.

Read the passage

We had a fast run from Dunmahon to Moorpark, twice across the river Funcheon, and through the woods of Ballyclough. The hounds rattled the modkereen (fox) at such a clipping pace, he had not time to pick up a hen that crossed his path as he cantered among the fowl in Shawn Donoghue's farmyard ; and men, horses, and dogs had much inclination to say, " Hold, enough," when our gallant fox, after a burst of two hours and ten minutes (during which, out of a field of forty-five, only five lived to the end), bade us good night, by betaking himself to the deep earth just under the old castle in the Earl of Mountcashel's demesne.
" What became of the fox, Brian ?" asked a youngster who made his debut with credit, but could not comprehend why we should part without his wearing the brush he so gallantly rode for. I loitered to hear the reply ; for Brian Hegarty, alias the " Haunted Huntsman," was a great humourist in his way. His answer is quite characteristic.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 49

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here, in the Earl of Mountcashel's demesne, an old castle stands where a fox hunt once ended. The hunt began at Dunmahon and ran fast to Moorpark, crossing the river Funcheon twice and going through the woods of Ballyclough. The hounds chased the fox at such a clipping pace that he had not time to pick up a hen that crossed his path as he cantered among the fowl in Shawn Donoghue's farmyard. Men, horses, and dogs all had much inclination to say, "Hold, enough," when the fox, after a burst of two hours and ten minutes, bade them good night by betaking himself to the deep earth just under the old castle. Out of a field of forty-five riders, only five lived to the end. A youngster who made his debut with credit asked Brian Hegarty, known as the Haunted Huntsman, what became of the fox, not comprehending why they should part without him wearing the brush he so gallantly rode for. Hegarty was a great humourist, and his answer was quite characteristic.

The Dennehys of Bellevue in Fox Hunting Lore

Bellevue · street · Dublin

In an ancient fox-hunting ballad recited by a dying huntsman, Reynard the Fox leaves his spurs, whip, and cap to the Dennehys of Bellevue. The verse praises the Dennehy family's fearless and daring hunting ability.

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' To Roderick O'Flanagan I leave my estate ; To you, John O'Neil, all my money and my plate ; To the Dennehys of Bellevue, my spurs, whip, and cap, For they always leap'd the ditch, and never look'd for the gap.'
" The sounds having ceased, I opened the door softly and went in. Davy, small at best, was now a mere skeleton ; his faded scarlet coat hung loosely on his dwindled form ; from beneath his nightcap a few silver-grey locks hung loosely on his sunken

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 72

As the companion tells it

Along here at Bellevue, the Dennehy family earned their place in fox-hunting lore. In an old ballad, Reynard the Fox makes his will. He leaves his estate to Roderick O'Flanagan, his money and plate to John O'Neil, and to the Dennehys of Bellevue his spurs, whip, and cap. The verse says they "always leap'd the ditch, and never look'd for the gap." It was recited by Davy, a dying huntsman, small at best, now a skeleton, his faded scarlet coat loose on his dwindled form.

University of Lismore and its literary renown

Lismore and Mocollop · parish · Cork

Lismore acquired great renown as a literary resort. Morinus, in his life of the founder of the University of Lismore, wrote of scholars hastening to the city. Holy men flocked there from all parts of Ireland, England, and Britain.

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An ancient author f thus describes it : — " Lesmor is a famous and holy city, half of which is an asylum into which no woman durst enter ; but it is full of cells and holy monasteries, and religious men, in great numbers, abide there ; and thither holy men flock together from all parts of Ireland ; and not only from Ireland, but from England, and Britain, being desirous to remove from thence to Christ ; and the city is built on the banks of the river Abanmor — that is, the Great River — in the territory of the Nan Deci, or Desies." The city of Lismore acquired great renown as a literary resort. Morinus, in his life of the founder of the University of Lismore, writes, —
" Certatim hi properant diverso transite ad urbem Lismoriam, juvenis primos ubi transigit annos."

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 37

Youghal townsmen capture French privateer

Youghal · town · Cork · 1696

In 1696 the townsmen of Youghal manned a boat with forty seamen and soldiers and took a French privateer that lay at anchor under a cable nearby.

Read the passage

In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly assaulted Youghal, but was repulsed, with the loss of fifty of his men. In 1641, it again became the scene of war. The Earl of Cork shut himself up in the town, and defended it against the insurgents at his own expense, with 1000 foot and 60 horse, in addition to which, the townsmen maintained fifteen companies. The besieged received succours in 1642, Sir Charles Vavasour, with his regiment of 1000 men, landed with some difficulty. The earl held sessions here soon after, at which the insurgent chiefs were indicted for high treason. The Earl of Cork died the year after in this town. In 1644 the native Irish were expelled, and their property seized. In 1645 it was again besieged by the Earl of Castlehaven, but the defenders held out until Lord Broghill arrived, and the siege was raised. When Cromwell visited Youghal, in 1649, the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made it his head-quarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned, and embarked here for England. By letters patent under the privy seal, dated February 14. 1660, their estates and franchises were restored to such of the inhabitants, being " innocent Papists," who had been deprived of them during Cromwell's usurpation. On the 2d August, 1690, Youghal surrendered to King William III., who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. The importance of taking Youghal appeared during the continuance of the siege of Limerick, as it was a check upon the garrison of Cork, and the wandering troops called Rapparees. On the 9th August, the governor of Youghal marched to Castle Martyr, where he defeated a large number of men with a few troops, and seized the castle. In 1696, the townsmen of Youghal, having manned a boat with forty seamen and soldiers, took a French privateer that lay at anchor under Cable

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Abandoned canal project from Ruskern to Mallow

Mallow · town · Cork · 1794–1844

A canal was projected about fifty years before the book's publication to connect western collieries with Mallow, roughly four miles from Ruskern bridge. The entire line was cut and lock chambers built, but the project was abandoned and left neglected, a point of criticism regarding Ireland's dormant resources.

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From thence to Ruskern bridge, within a few miles of Kanturk, the river winds to the north. The country to the* south seems much better land, and the farming in general better than along the opposite bank. Within about a mile of the bridge, to the south, the river is very shallow, and a tall ledge of rock rises on the north bank. From hence to Mallow, about four miles, a line of canal was projected about fifty years ago ; the object being to connect the collieries to the west with that town and neighbourhood. The project seems to have received much support, for the entire line is cut, and strange to say, this most useful undertaking is suffered to lie utterly neglected. When the principal expense has been incurred, the very chambers for locks or sluices built, the whole is abandoned ! ! Unhappy Ireland ! how long are your resources to lie dormant ? How long is the disgraceful apathy of your landed proprietors to continue, driving your virtuous sons and daughters to seek, as exiles, in distant regions the means of subsistence so abundant in their native land ? The notice of the disadvantage of the means of water-carriage to this district is as fully applicable now as when Dr. Smith wrote, though a hundred years has since elapsed. " The northern part of this barony (Duhallow), though far from being barren, is yet thinly inhabited, and the farmers are the only consumers of what corn grows upon the premises. The roads in winter time are for the most part bad, and there being no navigable river, it is hard to get off the tenant's corn but at such a price of carriage as must greatly increase the value when sent to Cork market. There is plenty of turf and coal, but for want of water carriage, if quantities of this last material were dug, it would be of little value."* May I be allowed to indulge the hope, that ere another century rolls round, the water shall flow through the now grass-grown " Navigation line? " If the landlords would only see the exertions making in other countries, or, indeed, in portions of this, to improve the condition of their tenantry, they would soon turn their attention to this point of national utility. I would recommend short canals, having a practical

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 97

Ancient church of Youghal - finest Norman architecture specimen

Youghal · town · Cork

The ancient church of Youghal was the finest specimen of pointed English or Norman architecture in Ireland, consisting of a nave, transept, and choir with a square belfry tower. The choir is now roofless, and in the last century an incompetent architect destroyed the original design during roof repairs, replacing the painted ceiling with whitewash.

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The ancient church of Youghal was the finest specimen of the pointed English or Norman style of architecture in Ireland. It consisted of a nave, transept, and choir, with a square belfry or tower on the north side, about fifty feet high, which is still in good repair. The choir is now roofless and deserted ; its magnificent eastern window, glorious even in decay, fills the mind with melancholy when seen as the stranger enters the churchyard ; and this impression is not removed by the condition of that part of the ancient building still preserved in repair for divine service, namely, the nave and a portion of the ancient aisles. In the middle of the last century, when the old roof was repaired, the person employed as architect was so utterly incompetent that he quite destroyed the original design ; at the same time the painted ceiling of the interior was removed, and a uniform coat of white-wash substituted in its place. Pews and galleries were built according to the taste, or rather the caprice, of the several parishioners, and though several
given in trust for Sir

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 13

Ballyderoon ruins between two rivers

Ballyderown · townland · Cork

On a rock north of Careysville stand the ruins of Ballyderoon, meaning 'town between two rivers,' situated where the Ariglen and Funcheon meet the Blackwater near Mount Rivers.

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on the south bank, is Careysville, the handsome seat of Edward Carey, Esq., built on a rocky eminence over the river. Here was a strong castle of the Condons, called Ballymac Patrick. In January, 1642, this castle was taken by David, Earl of Barrymore, after an obstinate resistance. Close by are Glandelane Mills, and a high mill race, which requires a lock to free the navigation of the river. The ruins on a rock to the north are those of Ballyderoon, or town between two rivers — the Ariglen and Funcheon, which fall into the Blackwater close to Mount Rivers, the elegant and picturesque seat of Matthias Hendley, Esq. Near this is a neat house of Rev. T. Newenham, rector of Kilworth, and Moore Park, the finely -planted demesne of the Earl of Mountcashel.
The house of Moore Park is a spacious mansion, commanding a fine view. The front looks into a nobly-wooded lawn of considerable extent, and adorned with clumps of trees, in various detached groupings. There is a fine selection of paintings, some rare master-pieces, in Lord Mountcashel's collection. The inhabitants of this country owe him much gratitude, for his benevolent exertions to advance the navigation of the river, of which he is practically illustrating the feasibility. Two large boats have been recently built for him, under the superintendence of Alfred Cleverley, Esq., and are admirably adapted to the river. The boats brought a great number on board as far as Fermoy bridge, and draw

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 46

Bridgetown Abbey at the confluence of Awbeg and Blackwater

Bridgetown · townland · Cork

The venerable abbey of Ballynadroghid or Bridgetown sits in a fertile valley at the confluence of the Awbeg and the Blackwater near Rinny. It was named from two bridges that formerly crossed the river, but every vestige of these bridges has disappeared, leaving the abbey more secluded than when it flourished.

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We now behold the favourite stream of the poet — " Mulla fair and bright." Close to Rinny the winding Awbeg falls into the Blackwater, and in a fertile valley at the confluence is seated the venerable abbey of Ballynadroghid or Bridgetown, so called from two bridges that formerly crossed the river in its neighbourhood. Of these bridges every vestige has disappeared, and the road from Mallow to Fermoy now traverses the Awbeg further up its banks, so that the situation of the abbey is much more secluded at present than at the period when it flourished.*
It lies secluded — apart from the prying eyes of the vulgar wayfarer — and the traveller must leave the direct road to Mallow, and diverge for a quarter of a mile by the bank of the Awbeg, to follow the fallen fortunes of the monastic pile. It

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 81

Desmond plunders Youghal, spoils to Strancally and Lisfinny

Strancally · townland · Waterford · 1579

In 1579 the Earl of Desmond plundered Youghal and carried off the property to his castles of Strancally and Lisfinny in County Waterford. The Seneschal of Imokilly then overpowered Ormonde's troops sent from Waterford.

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his age, a. d. 1256. This is believed to have been the first Franciscan friary in Ireland. In 1317, Sir Roger Mortimer, Lord Justice, landed here, with thirty-eight knights, and in a short time forced Edward Bruce to retreat from this neighbourhood, and seek refuge in Ulster. The town suffered much in the Avars of the Earl of Desmond ; for, in 1579, he plundered it, and carried off the property to his castles of Strancally, and Lisfinny, co. Waterford. The Earl of Ormonde, receiving intelligence of this attack, sent a ship from Waterford with troops, which entered the town, but, being overpowered by the forces of the Seneschal of Imokilly, most of them were killed, and the remainder escaped with difficulty. The devastation to which the town was exposed left it quite desolate, not a man staying in it except one poor friar ; but on the retreat of the insurgents, in 1580, the inhabitants were invited to return, a garrison of 300 men being left for their protection. The mayor, who, before the incursion, had perfidiously refused to receive an English garrison, promising to defend the place to the last extremity, but who, instead of keeping his promise, yielded the town to Desmond, was taken, and hanged at his own door.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Elizabethan grant of Fermoy monastery to Sir Richard Grenville

Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1591

In 1591, Queen Elizabeth granted the monastery and its appurtenant lands, estimated at 550 acres, to Sir Richard Grenville at a rent of £15 13s. 4d. Irish money. The lands were later assigned to Sir George Harvey for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and other Fermoy lands from Sir Bernard Grenville.

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In 1591, a grant was made by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Richard Grenville, Knt., and his heirs, of this monastery, and the lands appurtenant, containing by estimate 550 acres, at the rent of 15/. 185. Ad. Irish money. These lands were afterwards assigned by the Lord Treasurer of England to Sir George Harvey, for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge was built over the river here, with thirteen arches, anno 1689, and cost 7500/.
In the struggle to keep James II. on the throne, this place became the scene of a conflict. In January, 1691, the frish, by the arrival of Tyrconnel, Nugha, Rice, and others from France, having received fresh supplies of arms and other necessaries, were encouraged (being straitened in their quarters) to try their fortune by the enlargement of their frontiers. Their main design was upon Fermoy and Ballymore ; the first, because of its stone bridge on the Blackwater, was esteemed a very considerable pass. The fortifications were slight, and the garrison not numerous ; their strength consisted chiefly of two field pieces, which gave them more reputation than force : this place was attacked by Brigadier Carroll and 1500 of the enemy ; but the Danes, who had the guard of it, defended it very well, and Colonel Donop, with fifty of his horse an<J thirty militia, by the common stratagem of two trumpeters sounding a march, as if fresh recruits were advancing, frightened the Irish into a flight, and they were so briskly pursued to Careigoncady-ford, that they lost near eighty men in this action.f

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here in Fermoy, in 1591, Queen Elizabeth granted the monastery and its appurtenant lands to Sir Richard Grenville, a knight, and his heirs. The lands were estimated at 550 acres, at a rent of 15 pounds, 13 shillings, and 4 pence Irish money. Afterwards, the Lord Treasurer of England assigned these lands to Sir George Harvey, for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several other lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge was built over the river here, with thirteen arches, in 1689, and cost 7500 pounds. This place became the scene of a conflict in the struggle to keep James II on the throne. In January 1691, the Irish, by the arrival of Tyrconnel, Nugha, Rice, and others from France, having received fresh supplies of arms and other necessaries, were encouraged, being straitened in their quarters, to try their fortune by enlarging their frontiers. Their main design was upon Fermoy and Ballymore. Fermoy, because of its stone bridge on the Blackwater, was esteemed a very considerable pass. The fortifications were slight, and the garrison was not numerous. Their strength consisted chiefly of two field pieces, which gave them more reputation than force. Brigadier Carroll and 1500 of the enemy attacked this place. But the Danes, who had the guard of it, defended it very well. Colonel Donop, with fifty of his horse and thirty militia, by the common stratagem of two trumpeters sounding a march, as if fresh recruits were advancing, frightened the Irish into a flight. They were so briskly pursued to Careigoncady-ford that they lost near eighty men in this action.

Fox hunt from Glenabo through Templenoe and Grange

Templenoe · townland · Cork

A fox hunt sets off from Glenabo wood, crossing the Blackwater at Templenoe and running towards Ashfield. The chase continues from Creg to Cairn, across the bogs of Glenabo to Duntaheen, before ending near the earths at Grange.

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" The fox, an uncommon stout one, faced right up the hill, and some difficulty was experienced, especially by those ignorant of the ground, the ascent was so precipitous. After crossing the mountain-top, he turned and dashed towards the river, which he crossed at Templenoe. We pursued. The hounds were seen running full cry towards Ashfield, and the fencing was tremendous, the banks being Stiff and numerous. Instead of seeking shelter at Ashfield, however, Reynard made a foil close by Creg, and thought to make back to his kennel; but meeting with the Held as they came on, slapped right again into the Blackwater, and swam to the opposite bank. I instantly galloped across the ford ; and having good reason to know its intricate windings (I narrowly escaped drowning there before), reached the shore in safety. Now the hunt began in right earnest. The fox, much refreshed by his swim, started off at a rapid pace, the hounds having him in view running breast high. Many of the horses ridden by those out not having had the ring I rode, now being fresher, put my hunter on his mettle, and a regular steeple chase ensued ; and, by this time, the thinned field and jaded pack told that by possibility Reynard could not long hold out. We had hunted him from Creg to Cairn, across the bogs of Glenabo to Duntaheen, and he now made an expiring effort to reach the earths at Grange. The farm-house in which the old huntsman spent his declining hours was in sight, and methought a faint view-
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Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 73

Macollop cider orchards and the Dublin Society premium

Mocollop · townland · Waterford

The Macollop domain, which passed from Francis Drew to James Barry of Ballyclogh by marriage, possesses valuable cider orchards. Mr. Drew's cider once lost the Dublin Society premium because judges suspected it was mixed with foreign wine, but the following year the premium was granted.

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Adjoining is a comfortable mansion, lately occupied by Francis Drew, Esq. ; and on his demise it came, by marriage of his daughter and sole heiress, to James Barry, Esq., of Ballyclogh, late captain 15th Foot, who recently filled the office of high sheriff of the county Cork. The domain is finely planted. Thick woods rise behind the house, while the distant hills of Clogheen and Kil worth close the view. This property possesses several valuable cider orchards ; and some years ago the cider made here by Mr. Drew lost the premium given by the Dublin Society, being so excellent in its kind, that the gentlemen who were judges imagined it to be mixed with foreign wine ; but the following year, being undeceived, they granted the premium.* The cider made on Captain Barry's property still preserves a reputation worthy its locality.
The river winds like a writhing serpent, and is very shallow and rapid above Macollop. A little west of the house are traces where stood a wooden bridge, swept away by a high flood in 1838, to the great inconvenience of the inhabitants of the district. All along the north bank rich lawns, dotted with clumps of noble trees, lead to Kilmurry, seat of Thomas Grant, Esq. The new line of road, close to the water, shows a vast cliff of limestone, which would be of the greatest benefit if transported to districts where such material is required for buildings, or limeburning. This is one of the great benefits which the facility of intercourse, brought on by inland navigation, confers — the facility of interchange of products of the various districts along the banks.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla

M'Auliffe castle and Mealane's Rock near Newmarket

Newmarket · town · Cork

A mile west of Newmarket lies a steep, wooded glen through which the Aundaluagh river rushes. On the west bank stand the remains of an old castle, the ancient residence of the M'Auliffes, and nearby is Mealane's Rock, a bare projecting cliff with a cavity, associated with a romantic legend.

Read the passage

A mile west of Newmarket is a beautiful glen, steep and richly wooded. The Aundaluagh, or " double rapid river," rushes between ihe interstices of the two steep hills which form the glen. On the west bank are the remains of an old castle, the ancient residence of the M'Auliffe's, a tribe who possessed a vast tract of country in those parts ; and at a considerable distance is pointed out Mealane's Rock, a bare projecting cliff, in which is a cavity. This castle has its legend — a romantic one, indeed : —
" Oh ! when wilt thou return

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 104

Monaminy Castle, Hospitaller preceptory and Nagle tomb

Monanimy · parish · Cork

Monaminy Castle is a well-preserved tower built on a steep rocky eminence rising from the waters, originally a preceptory of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. After the suppression of the Hospitallers it passed to the Nagle family, whose tomb is in the chancel of the ruined church.

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On the north bank we behold a strong-built tower in fine preservation: Monaminy Castle, a preceptory belonging to the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, now the comfortable residence of William Barry, Esq. This must have been an extensive building in former days, as traces of very large edifices are observable round the castle. It is, as Doctor Smith, in his History of Cork, justly observes, " augustly situated : " built on a steep rocky eminence rising from the waters. There being
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Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 83

Moorepark and river navigation efforts

Moorepark · townland · Cork

Moorepark is the finely-planted demesne of the Earl of Mountcashel, whose spacious mansion commands fine views and holds a notable painting collection. The Earl built two large boats to demonstrate the feasibility of navigating the Blackwater as far as Fermoy bridge.

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The house of Moore Park is a spacious mansion, commanding a fine view. The front looks into a nobly-wooded lawn of considerable extent, and adorned with clumps of trees, in various detached groupings. There is a fine selection of paintings, some rare master-pieces, in Lord Mountcashel's collection. The inhabitants of this country owe him much gratitude, for his benevolent exertions to advance the navigation of the river, of which he is practically illustrating the feasibility. Two large boats have been recently built for him, under the superintendence of Alfred Cleverley, Esq., and are admirably adapted to the river. The boats brought a great number on board as far as Fermoy bridge, and draw
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Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 46

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here is Moorepark, the demesne of the Earl of Mountcashel. The house is a spacious mansion commanding a fine view, its front looking into a nobly-wooded lawn adorned with clumps of trees in various detached groupings. Inside, there is a fine selection of paintings, some rare master-pieces, in Lord Mountcashel's collection. The people of this country owe him much gratitude for his benevolent exertions to advance the navigation of the river, which he is practically illustrating the feasibility of. Two large boats have been recently built for him, under the superintendence of Alfred Cleverley, Esquire, and are admirably adapted to the river. The boats brought a great number on board as far as Fermoy bridge.

Shamus na Bo's tale of banishing the Hag from Laibhe Colloch

Labbacallee · townland · Cork

At a harvest-night gathering in John Doran's cottage near Glanworth, Shamus na Bo boasts that he himself banished the Hag from Laibhe Colloch. The assembled company eagerly asks to hear the story, which Shamus begins to tell.

Read the passage

" Mille murther ! " says Shamus ; " did any one ever hear the likes ov ye ? Shure if ye goes on this way, I wo'n't be let spake till doomsday. Can't ye be excided at once? Did any ov ye ever hear of the man that banished the ' Hag' from Laibhe Colloch?"
" No ! " shouted all ; " let us have it,"

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 65

Siege of Lismore Castle by Purcell and Muskerry

Lismore · town · Waterford · 1643

In 1643, General Purcell joined forces with Lord Muskerry and laid siege to Lismore Castle. After a week, a cessation of arms was agreed and the besiegers withdrew.

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5000 Irish, under Sir Richard Beling, but was bravely defended by the Earl's son, Lord Broghill, and the assailants compelled to retire. In 1643, a party of insurgents, in retaliation for the destruction of Clogheen by the garrison of Lismore, burned a number of thatched houses, killed sixty of the inhabitants, and made several prisoners. And, in the same year, General Purcell united his forces with those of Lord Muskerry, and laid siege to the castle. After a week, a cessation of arms was agreed to, and the besiegers withdrew. The castle suffered much in this war, and was subsequently burned by Lord Castlehaven, in 1645. It was somewhat repaired soon after, for we find, in 1686, the Earl of Clarendon, in his tour through Munster, slept within the walls ; and again, in 1689, it was visited by James II. In 1785, the Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, held a council here, and issued several proclamations. The castle, with its appurtenances, descended from the Earls of Cork and Burlington, by marriage, in 1748, of Lady Charlotte Boyle with William Cavendish, fourth Duke of Devonshire, the ancestor of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

St. Patrick's Cow entrenchment at Lismore

Lismore · town · Waterford

A double trench known as Rinke-Bo-Padruic, or the Dance of St. Patrick's Cow, is located in this parish. Legend holds it was created by St. Patrick's cow while searching for her stolen calf in Ardmore.

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Several entrenchments, vestiges of war's footsteps, are in the neighbourhood. A [ double trench, called Rinke-Bo-Padruic, or Dance of St. Patrick's Cow, is in this j parish ; of which the legend is, that it was the work of St. Patrick's cow, when I she went to Ardmore in search of her calf which had been stolen. Dr. Smith j conjectures it is the trace of an ancient highway from Cashel to Ardmore, between which two places there was formerly frequent intercourse. A single trench runs i from Cappoquin along the side of the mountains into county Cork, supposed to have been a "boundary or fence made to preserve the cattle against wolves." Some mineral waters are met with. Midway between Lismore and Cappoquin is a weak chalybeate water, and a strong chalybeate spring near Glenmore. The soil is in general fertile ; the lands arable and pasture ; and there is not much bog. Slate quarries are contiguous to the town ; and abundance of limestone, silicious rock, conglomerate, and sandstone, also present themselves. Iron, copper, and lead ores, have formerly been worked, but are now discontinued for want of fuel* ; it is, however, hoped the facility afforded by the navigation of the Blackwater will cause this evil to be speedily remedied. No measure more calculated to benefit the country and develope her vast natural resources can engage the attention of the patriot and philanthropist. The intercourse which it necessarily causes would do more to dispel erroneous notions and prejudices, and remove animosities, than centuries of legislation. Let manufacturing industry prevail — let the labouring mechanic find employment, and peace and order will be united to temperance. Let not our lovely river flow unheeded by as " a sealed book." Employ the people. The river presents no obstacle, but there is work to be had — establishing beacons and guides through the channel, constructing quays, landing places ; clearing banks, giving means of employment, and directing the energies of the people to useful works.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 41

Subterranean caverns between Mitchelstown and Cahir

Mitchelstown Caves · cave s souterrain s · Tipperary

On the Earl of Kingston's estates, about midway between Mitchelstown and Cahir, are vast subterranean caverns with beautiful stalactites, set in a hill rising in a valley between the Galtee and Knockmealdown mountain chains. The cave was discovered and first explored by two boys named Shelly with a companion, who nearly perished in darkness before being rescued at midnight.

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About eight miles north of Fermoy is Mitchelstown. The Earl of Kingston has a magnificent castle here, in the Gothic style, which is well worth seeing, and the hospitable lord of the castle always receives strangers with a hearty welcome. On his extensive estates, about eight miles further, nearly midway between -Mitchelstown and Cahir, are vast subterranean caverns with beautiful stalactites. The best account yet given of these caves is in Hall's " Ireland," and we extract it for the benefit of tourists : —
" The hill in which the cave exists rises in nearly the centre of a valley, which

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 59

As the companion tells it

Somewhere about Mitchelstown Caves, on the Earl of Kingston's estates, lie vast subterranean caverns with beautiful stalactites. These estates sit nearly midway between Mitchelstown and Cahir. The hill in which the cave exists rises in nearly the centre of a valley, between the Galtee and Knockmealdown mountain chains. Two boys named Shelly, with a companion, discovered and first explored the cave. They nearly perished in the darkness before being rescued at midnight. The best account of these caves appears in Hall's Ireland.

Villierstown: village founded for linen manufacture

Villierstown · town · Waterford

The village of Villierstown, on the road between Clashmore and Cappoquin, was founded by the last Earl of Grandison in hopes of introducing the linen manufacture to the south of Ireland by establishing a colony of Protestant weavers. The experiment's extent and abandonment are unknown.

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At a little distance from the river, on the road between Clashmore and Cappoquin, is the neat village of Villierstown, founded by the last Earl of Grandison, with the hope of introducing the linen manufactory into the south of Ireland, by establishing here a colony of Protestant weavers. Beyond this general fact, we could learn nothing of the experiment, not even to what extent the original plan was acted upon, or when it was abandoned. There is, however, an average congregation every Sunday at the village church ; and the incumbent, the Rev. Philip Homan, has the happiness of being equally beloved by his Protestant and Catholic parishioners. This distinction is shared by his neighbour, the Rev. Mr. Mackesy, rector of Clashmore ; and it is gratifying to add, that when the Protestant clergymen were reduced to difficulties some years ago, by the refusal to pay tithe,

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 32

Death of David Walsh at Grange Farm House

near Grange · townland · Cork

David Walsh, well known along the Blackwater banks as a capital rider to hounds, died at Grange Farm House near Fermoy. He is said to have sent a special messenger praying the author to visit him once before he departed this life.

Read the passage

To the sportsman no apology is required for the following account of the last moments of David Walsh, well known along the Blackwater banks as a capital rider to hounds. He died in Grange Farm House. Imagination supplies the latter division of the narrative.
He is represented as having sent a special messenger, praying the author to visit him once ere he departed this life.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 70

Fermoy military station established 1797 by John Anderson

Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1797–1809

In 1797, the government selected Fermoy for a central military station in the south of Ireland due to its fertile surroundings and position between Cork and Dublin. John Anderson, the proprietor, made free grants of sites for buildings and erected temporary barracks on the south side of the river. The east barracks were built in 1806 and the west barracks in 1809.

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In 1797, government wishing to form a military station in a central part of the south of Ireland, selected Fermoy as most desirable for that purpose. It is in the midst of a fertile country, within a day's march from Cork in case of emergency, though usually divided into two by the troops. Available as a convenient place for the assembling troops destined for or returning from foreign service, and directly on the route between Cork and Dublin ; overtures being made to John Anderson, Esq., who had lately become the proprietor, by virtue of his purchasing four sixths of the manor of the estate of the forwards, that intelligent gentleman at once foresaw the numerous advantages to be derived from such a measure, and readily entering into the desired project, made free grants of sites for the buildings, and erected temporary barracks on the south side of the river. The east barracks were built in 1806, and in 1809 the west barracks. The former, the more extensive of the two, occupy three sides of a quadrangle, 800 feet long and 700 wide,

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here the government chose to build a military station in 1797. They wanted a central base in the south of Ireland, and they picked Fermoy because it sits in fertile country, within a day's march of Cork, and directly on the route between Cork and Dublin. It was useful for assembling troops heading to or returning from foreign service. They approached John Anderson, who had recently become the proprietor after buying four sixths of the manor of the estate of the forwards. He saw the advantages at once and made free grants of sites for the buildings. He also put up temporary barracks on the south side of the river. The east barracks went up in 1806 and the west barracks in 1809. The east barracks were the larger of the two. They occupied three sides of a quadrangle, 800 feet long and 700 wide.

First Franciscan friary in Ireland at Youghal

Youghal · town · Cork · 1256

A Franciscan friary was established at Youghal around 1256, believed to be the first of its order in Ireland. After later devastations only one poor friar remained in the town.

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his age, a. d. 1256. This is believed to have been the first Franciscan friary in Ireland. In 1317, Sir Roger Mortimer, Lord Justice, landed here, with thirty-eight knights, and in a short time forced Edward Bruce to retreat from this neighbourhood, and seek refuge in Ulster. The town suffered much in the Avars of the Earl of Desmond ; for, in 1579, he plundered it, and carried off the property to his castles of Strancally, and Lisfinny, co. Waterford. The Earl of Ormonde, receiving intelligence of this attack, sent a ship from Waterford with troops, which entered the town, but, being overpowered by the forces of the Seneschal of Imokilly, most of them were killed, and the remainder escaped with difficulty. The devastation to which the town was exposed left it quite desolate, not a man staying in it except one poor friar ; but on the retreat of the insurgents, in 1580, the inhabitants were invited to return, a garrison of 300 men being left for their protection. The mayor, who, before the incursion, had perfidiously refused to receive an English garrison, promising to defend the place to the last extremity, but who, instead of keeping his promise, yielded the town to Desmond, was taken, and hanged at his own door.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Mallow Castle taken by Earl of Castlehaven, 1645

Mallow Castle · monument · Cork · 1645–1666

The castle of Mallow was taken in 1645 by the Earl of Castlehaven and was nearly reduced to ruins. It remained in a dilapidated state for many years, with the first attempt at restoration made in 1666.

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ster, thought they ought to have a general of their own province ; but to avoid disputes among the lords, they pitched upon Garret Barry as their general, who had long served under the King of Spain, and was reputed to be a good soldier ; Lord Muskerry, and other leaders, acting as a council of war. On the 15th February, 1642, a party of Lord Roche's forces, joined by several of M'Donough's, assailed Mr. Clayton's castle, near Mallow, and employed ten masons in making a breach in the wall, they having no battering artillery. The garrison made a resolute defence. A large barn was set on fire, that the smoke and flame might procure the assailants admission : it only assisted the besieged, without doing them any injury; for, occurring at night, it threw a bright light over the country outside the walls, and every shot from the castle found a victim. It is said that 200 of the Irish forces were killed, and 140 wounded. A breach being at length effected, the place was carried by storm, and the garrison put to the sword. The castle of Mallow was taken in 1645, by the Earl of Castlehaven, and was nearly reduced to ruins. It was suffered to remain in this dilapidated state many years ; the first attempt to restore it was made in 1666. In a letter dated 3d of April, 1666, written by Lord Orrery to the Duke of Ormond, from Charleville, his lordship takes notice, " that there was then but one bridge over the Blackwater, winch," he says, " is forty miles navigable for boats." This would lead one to suppose that the river was used for commercial purposes as far as the place occupied by Fermoy at present. " This bridge," continues Lord Orrery, " is at Mallow, where there is a, castle of good strength if it had a little reparation, and is one of the greatest passes and thoroughfares in this province, and if seized on by any enemy, would, in effect, divide the country into two parts." When this kingdom was threatened with an invasion from France, the castle was deemed of such importance, commanding the chief pass and only bridge on the Blackwater, that the grand jury of the county of Cork presented a sum for the necessary repairs, to put it in a state of defence ; but the judge reserved himself from fiating, until he spoke with Lord Orrery, the Lord President, and again deferred the affair till he spoke with the Lord Lieutenant, the law only allowing presentments for bridges, causeways, highways, &c.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 87

Millstreet village in the eighteenth century

Millstreet · town · Cork · 1760

Millstreet, on the south bank of the Blackwater, consisted a century back of a small inn, a mill, and some half dozen cabins. The poet Derrick wrote about the inn in 1760, contrasting it favourably with a wretched mountain hovel where he had previously slept.

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After a short distance we reach Millstreet, situate on the south bank of the Blackwater. The village, a century back, consisted of a small inn, a mill, and some half dozen cabins. Of the inn mention is made in a letter written by Derrick the poet, in 1760, and his account was also evidence of the desire of the peasantry to show their title to respectability. He says, " The inn at Millstreet, however indifferent, is a perfect palace compared to the spot where we slept the night before. The rain continuing to pour heavily, we stopped at a wretched hovel on the confines of an extensive, bleak, rugged mountain, where they collect the dues of a turnpike. They showed us into a miserable cabin, in which there was something that wore the appearance of a bed. Mine host of the cottage, whose name was Haly, had more importance than a grandee of Spain. He told us that

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 107

St. Declan's Floating Stone

Ardmore · town · Waterford

On the strand at Ardmore lies St. Declan's stone, which tradition says miraculously floated from Rome carrying the saint's vestments and a bell. On the saint's patron day, people creep under the stone seeking cures.

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uses, a clear stream, and a well, reputed holy, draw together the descendants of the ancient worshippers." A close examination of these ruins will reward the labour of the architectural antiquary, for it is probably the oldest ecclesiastical ruin in Ireland, and appears to have been the structure erected in the time of St. Declan. On the strand below, St. Declan's stone is pointed out, which, accord-
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Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 24

Tradition of submerged buildings at Youghal strand

Youghal · town · Cork

Old people stated that within their recollection the remains of buildings could be seen under the water at very low tide on the strand south of Youghal. This oral tradition supports the geological evidence of coastal change and sea encroachment.

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find that in 1 649 several parliamentary frigates entered the harbour, and were moored opposite the town. It would be dangerous for vessels of such size and burthen to attempt a passage at present. To the eye of the geologist the harbour presents evidences of having undergone still greater changes, and the traditions of the people and the Irish names of several localities singularly confirm the conclusions to which the deductions of science point. The long strand to the south of the town is a submarine forest, and peat-bog, worn by the sea, at some distant but not very remote age, speaking geologically, and the silent encroachments of ocean still continue ; so that if some barrier, similar to the dykes of Holland, be not constructed, there can be little doubt but that at some future time the sea will win the flat bog by which it is at present skirted, and the waves roll to the very foot of the range of hills beyond. We have seen vast quantities of peat, or, as it is called in Ireland, turf, raised for fuel on this strand, between high-water and low-water mark. Trees of immense size have been also dug up, and on some of these, nuts have been found in such a state of preservation, that on opening them the kernel was distinctly perceptible. A very perfect nut-tree was recently dug up, close to the low- water mark, and on it not merely the fruit but the leaves were perfect in every thing but colour. The horns of the Irish elk, and the bones of other animals, have been dug up amid the trees on this part of the strand, thus affording indisputable evidence of the encroachments of the ocean. Old people state, that within their recollection, the remains of some buildings might be seen under the water when the tide was very low. Finally, there is a tradition that Capel Island, which is now about a mile distant from the head-land of Knockadoon, was once so close to it that it could be reached by stepping-stones ; but this is a tradition too vague to warrant founding any argument on it.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 11

Youghal surrenders to William III after the Boyne

Youghal · town · Cork · 1690

On 2 August 1690 Youghal surrendered to King William III, who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. Its capture checked the garrison of Cork and the Rapparees during the siege of Limerick.

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In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly assaulted Youghal, but was repulsed, with the loss of fifty of his men. In 1641, it again became the scene of war. The Earl of Cork shut himself up in the town, and defended it against the insurgents at his own expense, with 1000 foot and 60 horse, in addition to which, the townsmen maintained fifteen companies. The besieged received succours in 1642, Sir Charles Vavasour, with his regiment of 1000 men, landed with some difficulty. The earl held sessions here soon after, at which the insurgent chiefs were indicted for high treason. The Earl of Cork died the year after in this town. In 1644 the native Irish were expelled, and their property seized. In 1645 it was again besieged by the Earl of Castlehaven, but the defenders held out until Lord Broghill arrived, and the siege was raised. When Cromwell visited Youghal, in 1649, the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made it his head-quarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned, and embarked here for England. By letters patent under the privy seal, dated February 14. 1660, their estates and franchises were restored to such of the inhabitants, being " innocent Papists," who had been deprived of them during Cromwell's usurpation. On the 2d August, 1690, Youghal surrendered to King William III., who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. The importance of taking Youghal appeared during the continuance of the siege of Limerick, as it was a check upon the garrison of Cork, and the wandering troops called Rapparees. On the 9th August, the governor of Youghal marched to Castle Martyr, where he defeated a large number of men with a few troops, and seized the castle. In 1696, the townsmen of Youghal, having manned a boat with forty seamen and soldiers, took a French privateer that lay at anchor under Cable

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Affane lands given to Raleigh for a breakfast

Affane · townland · Waterford

According to tradition, the lands of Affane were given by Garratt Fitzgerald to Sir Walter Raleigh in exchange for a breakfast. Raleigh had large possessions in this part of the country.

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and Viscount Desses," and dying without issue, his possessions (the title becoming extinct) descended to his brother, Sir James Fitzgerald, who removed from Cappagh to Dromana, where he died in December, 1581. We next find in " Burke's Peerage," vide note, that the Hon. Edward Villiers, in 1677, married Catharine, daughter and heiress of John Fitzgerald, Esq. of the Decies, lineally descended from James, the seventh Earl of Desmond, and who dying, left his eldest son John heir! to his grandfather, as fifth Viscount Grandison. His lordship was created Earl of Grandison 11th September, 1721. He was great-great-grandfather of the present noble lord, Henry Villiers Stuart, Baron Stuart de Decies, of Dromana, within the Decies, county of Waterford. The cherry is said to have been first domesticated in this country at Dromana, having been brought hither from the Canary Islands by Sir Walter Raleigh. That distinguished stranger had large possessions in this country, and, in truth, land must have been accounted of somewhat less value than at present, when we are informed by the author of " Researches in the South of Ireland " — " The lands of Affane are said to have been given by Garratt Fitzgerald for a breakfast to Sir Walter Raleigh."
When seen from the opposite bank, the entire view is very fine. A slight portion of the old building remains, toppling the cliff.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 32

Ballyduff bridge and the 'John Anderson' steamboat

Ballyduff · townland · Waterford

Ballyduff bridge, property of Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart., was where the steamboat 'John Anderson' was first launched to ply between Lismore and Glandelane. Ruins of an extensive fortified mansion once belonging to the Drew family stand nearby, protected by a curtain wall pierced for musketry.

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Blackwater, for here was first launched the " John Anderson," to ply between Lismore and Glandelane. There are ruins of an extensive mansion here, once belonging to the Drew family. It was of considerable strength, and protected by a curtain wall, pierced for musketry.
In the confusion which followed the civil wars of 1641 and 1690, this part of the country appears to have been exposed to the depredations of the disbanded soldiery of the defeated armies, and hence arose the necessity of fortifying this mansion ; in other respects this little place possesses no importance, for the village of Ballyduff is small, and thinly inhabited. There is, however, an appearance of cleanliness and comfort in the cottages which bespeaks the fostering care of a kind and intelligent landlord.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla

Ballygiblin, seat of the Becher baronets

Ballygiblin · townland · Cork · 1328–1831

Ballygiblin was the seat of Sir William Wrixon Becher, created a baronet in 1831. The Becher family settled in Ireland during Queen Elizabeth's reign and claimed descent from Sir Eustace de Bridgecourt, who came from Hainault with Queen Philippa in 1328. Colonel Thomas Becher served in William III's army and received the king's watch, still held by descendants at Hollybrook.

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At some distance from the north bank is Loghert Castle, a strong building belonging to the Earl of Egmont ; and a little beyond this is Ballygiblin, the truly beautiful seat of Sir William Wrixon Becher, Bart. The house is well situated, with a southern aspect, commanding a fine view of Loghert Castle, and the tall dark brow of Mount Hilary, with the Blackwater winding round the base. The family name was Wrixon, and is yet borne by many respectable natives of this part of the country. Sir William was created a baronet in 1831, and, in obedience to the will of his uncle, assumed the name of Becher, which was confirmed by sign manual. He married, in 1819, Miss O'Neill, whose celebrity as a most accomplished tragic actress is well known. The Bechers settled in Ireland in Queen Elizabeth's reign, and "Burke's Peerage" states the baronet has in his possession a pedigree, tracing his ancestors in that line to Sir Eustace de Bridgecourt, who came from Hainault with Philippa, queen-consort to Edward III., in 1328. Colonel Thomas Becher was a useful officer in William IH.'s army ; and on some occasion so gratified that monarch, that he made Colonel Becher a present of his watch, now in the possession of his descendant, Richard Becher, Esq. of Hollybrook.
Further north is Castlecor, the seat of Edward Deane Freeman, Esq. The house is one of the best in the county, with suitable offices, and a finely -wooded demesne. Some of the old trees are superb. The Freemans have been in possession of Castlecor for a period exceeding 200 years. The mansion was built on the site of an ancient castle, some distance from the ruins of a monastery, yet traceable in the deer park. This monastery is considered to have been fortified. By intermarriage of William Freeman with Jane, daughter of Sir Matthew Deane, Bart., they became connected with the Deanes of Dromore. Sir Matthew was created a baronet in 1700, and his descendant is now Lord Muskerry. The

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 97

Ballyhooly Castle, the Roches, and Sir Richard Aldworth

Ballyhooly · town · Cork

Ballyhooly Castle was one of the numerous castles of the Roche family and came into the possession of Sir Richard Aldworth after their forfeiture. It forms, with the neighbouring ruined church, a most interesting object seen from the adjoining demesne of the Earl of Listowel.

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This castle of Ballyhooly was one of the numerous castles of the Roches, and came, by their forfeiture, into the possession of Sir Richard Aldworth. It forms,
with the neighbouring ruined church, a most interesting object when seen from the adjoining demesne of the Earl of Listowel. Convamore is a mansion of plain appearance, but beautifully situated. The apartments are of good size, and embellished with many fine paintings, purchased by the father and grandfather of the present noble owner. The grounds afford views of surpassing beauty. The entrance is close to the castle, and the avenue leads along the brow of the bank, which descends abruptly to the water. Looking back towards the entrance, the sight runs along the windings of the river, through rich masses of wood and highly cultivated lawn, to the ruins, beautifully grouped, and the fine bridge leading to the well-wooded mountains.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 77

Castlehaven besieges Youghal 1645

Youghal · town · Cork · 1645

In 1645 the Earl of Castlehaven besieged Youghal but the defenders held out until Lord Broghill arrived and the siege was raised. In 1644 the native Irish had been expelled and their property seized.

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In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly assaulted Youghal, but was repulsed, with the loss of fifty of his men. In 1641, it again became the scene of war. The Earl of Cork shut himself up in the town, and defended it against the insurgents at his own expense, with 1000 foot and 60 horse, in addition to which, the townsmen maintained fifteen companies. The besieged received succours in 1642, Sir Charles Vavasour, with his regiment of 1000 men, landed with some difficulty. The earl held sessions here soon after, at which the insurgent chiefs were indicted for high treason. The Earl of Cork died the year after in this town. In 1644 the native Irish were expelled, and their property seized. In 1645 it was again besieged by the Earl of Castlehaven, but the defenders held out until Lord Broghill arrived, and the siege was raised. When Cromwell visited Youghal, in 1649, the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made it his head-quarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned, and embarked here for England. By letters patent under the privy seal, dated February 14. 1660, their estates and franchises were restored to such of the inhabitants, being " innocent Papists," who had been deprived of them during Cromwell's usurpation. On the 2d August, 1690, Youghal surrendered to King William III., who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. The importance of taking Youghal appeared during the continuance of the siege of Limerick, as it was a check upon the garrison of Cork, and the wandering troops called Rapparees. On the 9th August, the governor of Youghal marched to Castle Martyr, where he defeated a large number of men with a few troops, and seized the castle. In 1696, the townsmen of Youghal, having manned a boat with forty seamen and soldiers, took a French privateer that lay at anchor under Cable

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Clashmore: Catholic peasants defended Protestant rector during Tithe War

Clashmore · town · Waterford

When Protestant clergymen faced difficulties due to refusal to pay tithe, the Catholic peasantry in the neighbourhood of the Rev. Mr. Mackesy, rector of Clashmore, cut down and carted home his corn without asking or accepting any reward, in a gesture of goodwill.

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that the Catholic peasantry in Mr. Mackesy's neighbourhood cut down and carted home his corn, without asking or accepting any reward. The national schools also in this neighbourhood have been productive of the most beneficial results. The English language is invariably spoken by the rising generation of peasantry ; and the series of books published, under the direction of the National Board, has conveyed innocent amusement and healthful instruction to families where the only literature previously known consisted of licentious songs and seditious ballads.
The geologist will find this portion of the country rich in all that interests him. Where the house is situated, and down to the river, the rock is clay slate, while the summit of the hill bounding the domain is fine white sandstone. In a hollow in the lawn is a curious white clay, like fine sugar, which is said to be of use in glass factories. Traces of copper ore are discernible, and lead has likewise been turned up. On the left bank there is a substratum of micaceous red sandstone ; indeed, red sandstone is most prevalent here.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 33

Fermoy as a military garrison town

Fermoy · townland · Cork

Fermoy is described as a bustling military town filled with soldiers in red and blue coats, bristling with bayonets, guns, and swords, with bands playing and bugles sounding. The narrator's servant portrays the garrison activity as a spectacle.

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" ' Just what I said myself to Botheen, after leaving Fermoy ; I did not take above half an hour from the time I got the commands to enter the town, and that was the curious town. All our sogers — red coats here, and blue coats there — bristling with bayonets, guns, and swords — bands rattling, and bugles playing — Captain O'Flanagan, wid Ginerals an' Corporals all round, waiting his orders — 'twould delight your sowl to be listening to the music. — 'Tis a pity myself arn't a soger. I lost no time, you may be sure, in going to the grocer's, and packing my bottles with plenty of hay, as your honer tould me, and left the place. Go on, Botheen, said I, shaking the switch ; and we got on famously, till we reached Glenabo. As we got on the hill, which is skirted by the woods on both sides of the road, the place looked very lonesome. I stopped for an instant, as the moon was rising, and beheld Castle Hyde forenent me at the other side of the river, looking very grand, with the tall black woods behind it, and far away the blue mountains of the Gualty's, over all, crowning the sight. Behind me was Cairn Thierna, rising like a great giant in the sky, and I saw the heaps of stones on the top, looking like human craturs. I thought of the quare story they tell about the place ; how the lord's son was to be drownded, and how the father was building the castle for him atop of the hill, and how he tuk him to see it one day, and the poor gossoon * went to look into the big tub, where they wet the lime for mortar, and saw, as he thought, another little boy in the tub, and climbed in to play with him, and got drownded ; and how the stones quarried for the castle remain on the top of the hill to this day. These thoughts gave me the lowness, so I stopt for a minute at Paddy Foley's shibeen house, to take a darby, and met Mick Hegarty, my first cousin's nephew — a good boy. 'Twas getting darkish as I rode along, and I must have missed the boughereen\ somehoAv, for I beheld the tall castle of Ballyhooly rising from the rock over the Blackwater, and was just turning back, when the most extraordinary thing happened that ever was. I often heard tell of

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 53

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here is Fermoy, in Cork, a place that in one old account was bursting with soldiers. A servant passing through tells of entering the town in barely half an hour from the time he got his commands. He calls it a curious town. He saw red coats here and blue coats there, the soldiers bristling with bayonets, guns, and swords. Bands were rattling and bugles playing. Captain O'Flanagan stood with generals and corporals all round him, waiting on his orders. The servant said it would, in his words, "delight your sowl to be listening to the music," and that it was a pity he was not a soldier himself. He lost no time in going to the grocer's, packing his bottles with plenty of hay, as he had been told to do, and leaving the place. He shook the switch and called to his horse, and they got on famously till they reached Glenabo. As they climbed the hill, skirted by woods on both sides of the road, the place looked very lonesome. He stopped for an instant as the moon was rising and beheld Castle Hyde across the river, looking very grand, with tall black woods behind it, and far away the blue mountains of the Gualtys over all, crowning the sight. Behind him was Cairn Thierna, rising like a great giant in the sky, and he saw the heaps of stones on the top, looking like human figures. He thought of the strange story they tell about the place, how the lord's son was to be drowned, and how the father was building a castle for him atop of the hill.

Kanturk as birthplace of Lord Avonmore

Kanturk · town · Cork

The town of Kanturk, though small, was rapidly expanding in commercial prosperity under the Earl of Egmont's agent Mr. Tierney. It was the birthplace of the distinguished lawyer Barry Yelverton, Lord Avonmore.

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Kanturk was the birthplace of that most distinguished lawyer, Barry Yelverton, Lord Avonmore.
Distant only a few miles is Newmarket, built on a small stream, that falls into the Oondala. It consists principally of two streets, crossing each other at right angles. The inhabitants number above 1000. The ancient name of this place was Ahatrasne, or " the place of the ford," which ford is now superseded by the commodious bridge near the entrance of the town. James I. made a grant of the property, of which this town is part, to the Aldworth family, part of the forfeited estates of the M'Auliffes. There was a patent for holding a market — whence the name Newmarket, confirmed by Charles II. A conflict took place at Scarteen, in 1822, between the military commanded by Captain Kippock and Lieut. Green, and the Whiteboys, in which the latter were defeated. — Handsome pieces of plate testified the value of the officers' intrepidity and conduct in the minds of the gentry of the district.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 103

Laibhe Colloch (Hag's Bed) near Glanworth

Labbacallee · townland · Cork

Near Glanworth stands a celebrated natural wonder called Laibhe Colloch, or the Hag's Bed, consisting of one huge rock placed lengthways on two smaller stones. No stone of the same type is found in the surrounding country, leading local peasants to conclude that fairies were the artificers.

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From the top of the hill, on the road to G-lanworth, whence the view of the Funcheon breaks suddenly on you, with its green and shady banks, sloping towards its clear bubbling waters, is seen the smart little village of Glanworth. The church crowning the grassy knoll, beyond which is the ancient and venerable castle, its narrow embrasures, ruined archways, and dilapidated walls, clearly defined against the ethereal vault. Here remains, for the inspection of the curious, the celebrated natural wonder called Laibhe Colloch, or the Hag's Bed, consisting of one huge rock, placed lengthways on two smaller ones. What makes it the more singular is, that no stone of the same genus is to be found in the surrounding country, and the prodigious size of the stones renders it unlikely that they could have been carried from any distance by the strength of men. Therefore the conclusion drawn by the untaught peasant is, that the good people, aliter the fairies, were the artificers.
In a mud edifice, vulgarly yclept " cabin," at the foot of the aforesaid hill, there lived an old man, who went by the pet name of Shamus na Bo, or " James of the Cow," from his being for many years in the capacity of herd to one of the neighbouring gentry ; and long after he was deprived of his situation by age, the sobriquet remained undisturbed. Shamus was a constant guest and visitor at all the wakes and weddings in the barony, where his flow of spirits and merry tale procured him a hearty welcome. With the garrulity of old age, when talking of youthful feats, he was peculiarly proud when called on for a story, and generally contrived to make himself the hero. I had the good fortune to hear the following, which, for the reader's sake, " would it were worthier."

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 65

Lismore Castle burned by Lord Castlehaven

Lismore · town · Waterford · 1645

Lismore Castle suffered greatly during the wars of the 1640s and was burned by Lord Castlehaven in 1645. It was somewhat repaired soon after.

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5000 Irish, under Sir Richard Beling, but was bravely defended by the Earl's son, Lord Broghill, and the assailants compelled to retire. In 1643, a party of insurgents, in retaliation for the destruction of Clogheen by the garrison of Lismore, burned a number of thatched houses, killed sixty of the inhabitants, and made several prisoners. And, in the same year, General Purcell united his forces with those of Lord Muskerry, and laid siege to the castle. After a week, a cessation of arms was agreed to, and the besiegers withdrew. The castle suffered much in this war, and was subsequently burned by Lord Castlehaven, in 1645. It was somewhat repaired soon after, for we find, in 1686, the Earl of Clarendon, in his tour through Munster, slept within the walls ; and again, in 1689, it was visited by James II. In 1785, the Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, held a council here, and issued several proclamations. The castle, with its appurtenances, descended from the Earls of Cork and Burlington, by marriage, in 1748, of Lady Charlotte Boyle with William Cavendish, fourth Duke of Devonshire, the ancestor of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

Mortimer lands at Youghal forcing Bruce to retreat

Youghal · town · Cork · 1317

In 1317 Sir Roger Mortimer, Lord Justice, landed at Youghal with thirty-eight knights and compelled Edward Bruce to retreat from the neighbourhood and seek refuge in Ulster.

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his age, a. d. 1256. This is believed to have been the first Franciscan friary in Ireland. In 1317, Sir Roger Mortimer, Lord Justice, landed here, with thirty-eight knights, and in a short time forced Edward Bruce to retreat from this neighbourhood, and seek refuge in Ulster. The town suffered much in the Avars of the Earl of Desmond ; for, in 1579, he plundered it, and carried off the property to his castles of Strancally, and Lisfinny, co. Waterford. The Earl of Ormonde, receiving intelligence of this attack, sent a ship from Waterford with troops, which entered the town, but, being overpowered by the forces of the Seneschal of Imokilly, most of them were killed, and the remainder escaped with difficulty. The devastation to which the town was exposed left it quite desolate, not a man staying in it except one poor friar ; but on the retreat of the insurgents, in 1580, the inhabitants were invited to return, a garrison of 300 men being left for their protection. The mayor, who, before the incursion, had perfidiously refused to receive an English garrison, promising to defend the place to the last extremity, but who, instead of keeping his promise, yielded the town to Desmond, was taken, and hanged at his own door.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 9

Spenser descendant married Ellen Nagle of Monaminy

Monanimy · parish · Cork

Sylvanus Spenser, eldest son of the poet Edmund Spenser, married Ellen Nagle, eldest daughter of David Nagle of Monaminy, and had two sons. Kilcolman was never rebuilt after the poet's death, so his descendants resided at Rinny.

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of Hospitallers, it passed into the Nagle family, rind in the chancel of the ruined church of the Commandery is the tomb of the Nagles. This ancient family, of which there are several branches in this country, are said to be principally distinguished by the colour of the hair: such as the red Nagles, for those with the hair of the family, of the hue delicately termed auburn ; black Nagle, with dark hair. The members of this family are of the highest respectability. Sir Richard Nagle, Bart., of Jamestown House, Westmeath, is of this stock. His great-grandfather was Richard Nagle, Esq., of Mount Nagle, Cork. The eldest son of Edmund Spenser the poet, named Sylvanus, married Ellen Nagle, eldest daughter of David Nagle, of Monaminy ; the issue of this marriage was two sons, Edmund and William Spenser. Kilcolman, never having been rebuilt after the death of Spenser the poet, his descendants resided at Rinny, where 1 was informed the last met his death in a tragical manner. He had contracted an intimacy with his housekeeper, from which she inferred he meant to marry her ; great, therefore, was her disappointment to learn, from a letter he received and which she had access to in her master's absence, that he was about being united to a lady in the neighbourhood. Jealousy, that fierce passion whether in male or female breast, fired her mind ; she resolved to interpose a bloody deed between the bans and the nuptials. From

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 83

Thompel a Deshert Ruins at Ardmore

Ardmore · town · Waterford

On the projecting headland at Ardmore Bay are the ruins of Thompel a Deshert, or Temple of Desert. It is considered probably the oldest ecclesiastical ruin in Ireland and still attracts local worshippers to its holy well.

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Archdall, in his Monasticon, mentions another religious edifice. This is Thompel a Deshert, or Temple of Desert, which I presume to be that referred to in the following agreeable notice in Eyland's Water ford: — " The ruins of another church are to be seen on the projecting headland which forms the western termination of the bay. This beautifully situated building, which combines a romantic site with other interesting associations, is in a most ruinous condition, having few traces of ornament or peculiar architecture to illustrate its early history. It is one of those structures which the common people love, probably because it has nothing to recommend^ it to strangers, and because its very worthlessness has preserved it entirely to themselves. It is remote from any public road or thoroughfare, and seldom visited except by those whom a secret instinct attaches to the place. Still, though fallen and in ruins, this temple is not deserted by the class of persons for whose use it was originally intended : a few fragments of broken arches give note of former magnificence, while vessels intended for religious
uses, a clear stream, and a well, reputed holy, draw together the descendants of the ancient worshippers." A close examination of these ruins will reward the labour of the architectural antiquary, for it is probably the oldest ecclesiastical ruin in Ireland, and appears to have been the structure erected in the time of St. Declan. On the strand below, St. Declan's stone is pointed out, which, accord-

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 24

Three underground chambers at Castle Hyde

Castle Hyde · electoral division · Cork

Castle Hyde contains three circular stone-lined underground chambers, about six feet high and six feet in diameter, with very small entrances. Mr. Crofton Croker considered such chambers to be native Irish granaries or secure depositories, with entrenchments defending small settlements against enemies or wolves.

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interior of the latter set of chambers, three in number. They are low, not above six feet high, and about the same in diameter, of circular shape, and lined with stone. The entrances are very small, barely room to admit the body in a stooping posture. That indefatigable Irish antiquarian, Mr. Crofton Croker, considers these were formed by the native Irish for granaries, or secure depositories for their property in troubled times ; and that the entrenchments were thrown around their little wigwam settlements, as a defence against the enemy, be he man or wolves. It is also stated they were the dwellings of the Fisbolgs in ancient days. They are rarely disturbed, the raths being deemed by the superstitious the residence of the sheeogues or fairies, and that misfortune will attend all who disturb the fairy territory.
102 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 68

Youghal Church and Boyle Mausoleum

Youghal · town · Cork

The interior of the church in Youghal is an anomalous mixture of architectural styles, with the south transept serving as the Mausoleum of the Boyles. A modern vestry-room disfigures the northern division, concealing fine ancient monuments, including one relegated to a coal-cellar.

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alterations have since been made, they have been all further departures from the type of the original architecture, so that the interior is now an anomalous compound of a collegiate church and a meeting-house. The south division of the transept, which still retains the name of Chancel, is the Mausoleum of the Boyles ; and it is much to be wished that the heir of their vast domains would bestow some little attention on the repair and preservation of their monuments. The northern division of the transept is disfigured by the most perverse specimen of Vandal deformity to be found in Christendom. A square vestry-room, with a naked roof, has been erected inside the church, cutting off several fine monuments of ancient families ; one of which, and that the most curious, is consigned to the coal-cellar of said vestry -room. The communion-table is placed in a recess projecting into the ruins of the ancient choir ; and this modern addition is built in a style at utter variance with the original structure of the church, and is ornamented with mural tablets, containing the creed, the commandments, &c, which neither harmonize with the old structure nor with the modern changes made in it. Nevertheless, the people of Youghal are proud of their old church, and have reason to be so in spite of all their perverse efforts to spoil it.
The interior of the deserted choir is now nearly filled with tombs, but these are almost hidden in the rank vegetation and tangled weeds which have been allowed

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 14

Ardmore Round Tower

Ardmore · town · Waterford

The round tower at Ardmore is described as perhaps the most perfect in Ireland, built of carefully fitted hewn stone. It is distinguished by four projecting rings or belts around it at intervals.

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The tower, perhaps the most perfect of this kind in Ireland, is built of hewn stone, carefully fitted and cemented. It is distinguished from many I have seen by having four projecting rings or belts round it at intervals, as if to divide it into stories or separate compartments ; each diminishes in circumference as it approaches the top. The conical cap is considerably shaken ; but yet retains its position. In Smith's History of Waterford mention is made of its being surmounted by a curiously-shaped cross, but of this no trace now exists. The height is calculated to be ninety-one feet; the entrance fifteen feet from the ground, and the circumference of the base forty feet. In each story is a window, and the top one contains four windows, opposite to each other, larger than those beneath. In Ryland's Waterford the antiquarian reader will find all existing hypotheses on the subject of Round Towers pleasantly displaced, without however the poor enjoyment of a more reasonable substitute than this : — "I shall offer as a conjecture that the round towers had some connection with the superstition which prevailed here at the period of the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, and that its early propagators endeavoured to avail themselves of the prejudices of the people, by erecting their places of worship in the vicinity of the ancient religious monuments."
The church, close by, was a splendid edifice, richly sculptured. There are yet evident on the west gable twelve bas-relief figures, each under a small Saxon arch. Mr. Croker, in his " Researches in the South of Ireland," has given a very full account of this interesting spot. These figures, he supposes, were intended for the twelve Apostles. Underneath these are the Baptism, a Sacrifice, the Judgment of Solomon, with figures of our First Parents, and the Tree of Knowledge between them.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 23

Ballysaggartmore domain and castellated bridge

Ballysaggartmore · electoral division · Waterford

The domain of Ballysaggartmore, residence of Arthur Usher, Esq., sits about a mile west of Lismore on the north bank. Its Gothic entrance gate of mountain granite cost £150 and was built by a native mechanic, while a castellated bridge crosses a mountain torrent in the woods.

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The avenue opens by a noble entrance, of which the accompanying sketch is a faithful representation ; the gate is the work of a native mechanic, and cost 150/., and the masonry is constructed of mountain granite, which is well suited to the Gothic architecture. The avenue leads through a dense wood, and winds along a steep hill, a perfectly level drive, though the mountain rises to a great height, and the descent on the other side is very great. A mountain torrent brawls along the bottom, and after a fretful course falls into the Blackwater. This is crossed by a castellated bridge, of which we subjoin an engraving. Nothing can be more romantic than this castle in the woods. On every side are trees and hills, with the river in the distance ; and the dash and flow of the torrent falls pleasingly amid the solitude. When the bend of the road shows the cluster of towers, and arched

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 43

Fermoy Barracks converted to Workhouse

Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1840

The extensive Fermoy barracks provided accommodation for over 1,500 infantry and cavalry personnel. In 1840, half of this range of buildings was sold by the government to the Poor Law Commissioners to serve as the Fermoy Union workhouse.

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with barracks in the rear for cavalry; the whole affording accommodation to 112 officers, and 1478 non-commissioned officers and privates of infantry, and to 24 officers and 120 non-commissioned officers and privates of cavalry, with stabling, &c. The west barracks are much less extensive. In 1840, half of this range of building was sold by government to the Poor Law Commissioners, and now forms the workhouse of the Fermoy Union. It affords ample accommodation to the paupers of the district, and, from its elevated position, is remarkably healthy. The want of ground to employ the inmates is a great evil.
Mr. Anderson having made this the great depot for troops, caused the bridge already mentioned to be widened, and had the town built. It consists of a spacious

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 57

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Fermoy, Mr. Anderson made this the great depot for troops, had the bridge widened, and had the town built. The barracks afforded accommodation to 112 officers and 1478 non-commissioned officers and privates of infantry, and to 24 officers and 120 non-commissioned officers and privates of cavalry, with stabling. The west barracks were much less extensive. In 1840, half of this range of building was sold by government to the Poor Law Commissioners, and now forms the workhouse of the Fermoy Union. It affords ample accommodation to the paupers of the district, and from its elevated position is remarkably healthy. The want of ground to employ the inmates is, the source says, "a great evil."

Lismore Castle transferred from McGrath to Raleigh to Earl of Cork

Lismore and Mocollop · parish · Cork

Milor Magrath, with the consent of the Dean and Chapter, granted Lismore Castle to Sir Walter Raleigh. Raleigh's possessions, including the castle, were subsequently purchased by the Earl of Cork.

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Lismore Castle, the present principal attraction of more modern times, was built by King John, a. d. 1185, and was surprised by the Irish in 1189, who displayed their inveterate hostility by slaying the garrison, with Robert Barry, the governor. When rebuilt, it was occupied by the bishops as their residence, until the time of Milor Magrath, who, with the consent of the Dean and Chapter, granted it to Sir Walter Raleigh, from whom, with the rest of his possessions, it was purchased by the Earl of Cork. Early in the insurrection of 1641, the castle was besieged by
* Gul. Malm.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 37

Mallow Spa House and its facilities

Mallow · town · Cork

The principal spring rises on the north-east of Mallow at 1,200 gallons per hour from the rock. The spa house, built by Sir Denham J. Norreys, Bart., is a neat cottage-style edifice containing the pump-room, consultation room, reading-room, and hot, cold, salt-water, vapour, and medicated baths.

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The principal spring is on the north-east of the town, north of the river. Here it rises perpendicularly in a strong stream from the rock, at the rate of 1200 gallons per hour. It has great repute in cases of debilitated constitutions, scrofula, and consumption. The spa house is a neat and convenient edifice, in the English style of cottage architecture, containing the pump-room, a small apartment for medical consultation, a reading-room, and baths. Here may be procured hot or cold salt-water, vapour, and medicated baths. It was built by the lord of the manor, Sir Denham J. Norreys, Bart.
The family of Sir Denham Jephson, who assumed, by sign-manual, dated 18th July, 1838, the additional surname and arms of Norreys, is of great antiquity, and high rank. According to Burke's Peerage, King Henry VIH., by patent dated 1534, granted the manor of Froyle, in Hants, to William Jephson, Esq. and Mare his wife. From them descended Sir John Jephson, of Froyle, a major-general and privy-councillor in Ireland. He married Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas Norris, Lord President of Munster ; and the Mallow estate thus came into the Jephson family, and to the present talented and accomplished possessor. This excellent resident landlord is at present rebuilding his ancestral mansion, a sketch of part of which is subjoined. It is the true Elizabethan style, and when finished will be one of the finest specimens of that class of architecture in Ireland. The interior fully corresponds with the outward appearance. No expense has been spared to render it unique, and in perfect accordance with the prevailing character of the building. The wide oak staircase, with its massive balustrades — the panelled chambers, the deep embayed windows, the subdued light of day

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 88

Prophecy of the lifting of Labbacallee stone

Labbacallee · townland · Cork

A fairy prophecy linked to the River Funcheon states that if a man manages to lift the top stone of Laibhe Colloch, the power of the fairies will be permanently broken. The fairies are terrified by this prophecy.

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' Whene'er a man to lift the stone is found, From near the Funcheon or the country round, The fairies there can never again come — Their power is broken — all their charms undone.'
" But nottin could bate the state of alarm the war in, when in good airnist they

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 66

The bar of Youghal harbour and navigation experiments

Youghal · town · Cork

The bar of Youghal obstructs the harbour entrance, caused by the rush of the Blackwater meeting the tide. Francis Jennings of Cork conducted experiments suggesting the bar could be partially removed, which would make Youghal rival Cork or Waterford as a seaport.

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The view of the town from Muckridge House is picturesque. In front is a Castle of modern erection ; but when associated with the recollections of the bloody wars fought in every direction, partakes of that indefinable feeling of reverence with which we regard the remnants of other times. Close beside is the bay, into which the Blackwater pours its waters. " A favourable circumstance to its navigation," observes the Rev. Horatio Townsend, in his Survey of the County Cork, " as the discharge of so great a body of water must necessarily exert sufficient force to preserve the mouth from any overwhelming excess of sandy accumulation." Now I should be inclined to regard this as, in no small degree, the cause of the bar of Youghal, which presents an obstruction to the entrance of the harbour — the rush of the river on the one side, and flow of the tide, collecting a mass of sand and mud which crosses the bay. There have been some experiments made by Mr. Francis Jennings, a distinguished scientific gentleman, a native of Cork, the result of which leads to the possibility of removing a considerable portion of the bar ; and this once effected, Youghal would speedily rival Cork or Waterford as a seaport. The facility of entering the harbour would be greater than at either of those cities : there is not, as at Cork, the river to ascend, and descend when sailing out. There is no delay incurred by waiting for the tide. The passage across to Bristol could be made in some hours less time than at present from Cork ; and should, as is likely, a steamer find sufficient encouragement to take this station when the traffic following the opening of the Blackwater navigation arises, all the articles of groceries, and other imports, will come direct here, instead of being procured from merchants in the neighbouring ports. The preference of Cork, as a port, leaves Youghal chiefly a trade in coal, and export of grain and butter. It carries on a considerable trade in manufacturing brick, the earth here being peculiarly adapted to that article, with which it supplies Cork to a great extent ; also earthenware of a coarse description.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 12

Tombs and Inscriptions in Youghal Choir

Youghal · town · Cork · 1517–1603

The deserted choir of Youghal church is filled with tombs hidden by overgrown vegetation. Notable monuments include the tomb of Thomas Fleming, a Runic-inscribed tomb from 1517 thought to belong to a mayor, and Ronayne's tomb from Queen Elizabeth's reign.

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No date — no trace — by which his lineage might be guessed, or his deeds recalled. Another, with some characters which I could not decipher, bears a Runic inscription ; the date is tolerably clear, 1517 ; the remainder much defaced. It is supposed to be the tomb of a mayor of Youghal. The one surmounted by a head over the cross, is called Ronayne's tomb. He was also a mayor in Queen Elizabeth's reign. There is a large tomb to the Boyle family, dated 1619. This is in a chapel much exposed to the weather. An epitaph to Sir Richard Villers, Lord President of Munster, who died in 1626, is quaint and terse : —
Munster may curse the time that Villers came, To make us worse by leaving such a name, Of noble parts, as none can imitate But those whose hearts are married to the State ; But if they press to rival him in fame, Munster may bless the time that Villers came.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 15

Ballinamona Castle, Nagle branch near Doneraile

Ballynamona · townland · Cork

Another branch of the Nagle family resides at Ballinamona Castle, in the neighbourhood of Doneraile. The head of this family is Garret Nagle, Esq., J.P.

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Edmund Burke spent a considerable portion of his youth in this part of the country, and was a constant guest at Mr. Nagle's. There is another branch of this house residing at Ballinamona Castle, in the neighbourhood of Doneraile. The head of this family is Garret Nagle, Esq., J. P.
A strong stone bridge below Monaminy Castle leads to Killevullen, a pretty village on the Mallow road. At the south end of the bridge, large limestone rocks descend from a great height into the water ; some large caverns are observable in their sides. An excellent mansion is built on the summit, called the Rock or Ballymacmoy House. It has a spacious lawn in front, ornamented with trees and flowergardens. This picturesque mansion is the property of James Hennessy, Esq. ; and during his residence in France, was occupied by Mrs. O'Geran, who kept the grounds and flower-gardens models of taste and horticultural perfection. A short distance north is Ballygriffin, a pretty cottage of J. Creagh, Esq. Near this is Killura, the seat of the late Cornelius Linehan, Esq., now the property of Mrs. O'Geran. In front of the house is a venerable tree, or rather group of trees, for there are three distinct trunks, whether growing from one or more roots I cannot say ; this is called St. Cranith's tree. Mrs. Linehan, whose name previously to her marriage was Sarsfield, a descendant of the Great Earl of Lucan, had a tastefully arranged flower-garden at the feet of those aged foresters. The view from the house is beautiful. There is a finely wooded glen at Killura ; a favourite fox covert for the hunters of Duhallow. To the west is Castle Kiflin, formerly a seat of the Roches, now the property of B. Thornhill, Esq.

Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 84

The Blackwater in Munster;

The stories, best first

Cromwell makes Youghal his winter headquarters

Newmarket: ancient ford and Aldworth grant

Ardmore as ancient mouth of the Blackwater

Drisliane Castle built by Dermot MacCarthy

Earl of Cork defends Youghal in 1641

Fermoy village and the saying 'All on one side like Fermoy'

Knockmealdown: burial of Mr. Ecles on the summit

Mallow town in 1641: two hundred houses and garrison

Old castle in the Earl of Mountcashel's demesne

The Dennehys of Bellevue in Fox Hunting Lore

University of Lismore and its literary renown

Youghal townsmen capture French privateer

Abandoned canal project from Ruskern to Mallow

Ancient church of Youghal - finest Norman architecture specimen

Ballyderoon ruins between two rivers

Bridgetown Abbey at the confluence of Awbeg and Blackwater

Desmond plunders Youghal, spoils to Strancally and Lisfinny

Elizabethan grant of Fermoy monastery to Sir Richard Grenville

Fox hunt from Glenabo through Templenoe and Grange

Macollop cider orchards and the Dublin Society premium

M'Auliffe castle and Mealane's Rock near Newmarket

Monaminy Castle, Hospitaller preceptory and Nagle tomb

Moorepark and river navigation efforts

Shamus na Bo's tale of banishing the Hag from Laibhe Colloch

Siege of Lismore Castle by Purcell and Muskerry

St. Patrick's Cow entrenchment at Lismore

Subterranean caverns between Mitchelstown and Cahir

Villierstown: village founded for linen manufacture

Death of David Walsh at Grange Farm House

Fermoy military station established 1797 by John Anderson

First Franciscan friary in Ireland at Youghal

Mallow Castle taken by Earl of Castlehaven, 1645

Millstreet village in the eighteenth century

St. Declan's Floating Stone

Tradition of submerged buildings at Youghal strand

Youghal surrenders to William III after the Boyne

Affane lands given to Raleigh for a breakfast

Ballyduff bridge and the 'John Anderson' steamboat

Ballygiblin, seat of the Becher baronets

Ballyhooly Castle, the Roches, and Sir Richard Aldworth

Castlehaven besieges Youghal 1645

Clashmore: Catholic peasants defended Protestant rector during Tithe War

Fermoy as a military garrison town

Kanturk as birthplace of Lord Avonmore

Laibhe Colloch (Hag's Bed) near Glanworth

Lismore Castle burned by Lord Castlehaven

Mortimer lands at Youghal forcing Bruce to retreat

Spenser descendant married Ellen Nagle of Monaminy

Thompel a Deshert Ruins at Ardmore

Three underground chambers at Castle Hyde

Youghal Church and Boyle Mausoleum

Ardmore Round Tower

Ballysaggartmore domain and castellated bridge

Fermoy Barracks converted to Workhouse

Lismore Castle transferred from McGrath to Raleigh to Earl of Cork

Mallow Spa House and its facilities

Prophecy of the lifting of Labbacallee stone

The bar of Youghal harbour and navigation experiments

Tombs and Inscriptions in Youghal Choir

Ballinamona Castle, Nagle branch near Doneraile