The Blackwater in Munster;

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Ballyhoura Hills as Spenser's 'Mountains of Mole'

   near Ballyhoura Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Cork

   Spenser identified the Ballyhoura hills to the north of Kilcolman as the 'Mountains of Mole' or 'Old Father Mole' in his poetry. These hills run along the northern and eastern limits of Cork, dividing that county from Limerick and Tipperary.

   Read the passage

   independence. Kilcolman Castle was a fortalice of the Earl of Desmond. It was surrounded by a vast plain, unenlivened by hamlet or mansion, and, at a great distance, girt by a horizon of lofty hills, all of which have been introduced into his writings under poetical names. The Ballyhowra hills to the north are the Mountains of Mole — " Old Father Mole." This name he gives to the hills running along the northern and eastern limits of Cork, and dividing that county from Limerick and Tipperary. Gualtie More, the highest of the Gualty range, he calls Arlo Hill ; doubtless from its vicinity to the Glen of Aherlow, which lies behind it on the Tipperary side.

   " Eftsoones the time and place appointed were

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 80

2. Buttevant and the Barry war-cry

   Buttevant · town · Cork

   Buttevant, four miles from Doneraile, derives its name from the war-cry of the Barrys, a powerful Anglo-Norman family in Munster: 'Boutez-en-avant,' meaning 'Push forward.' The earls of Barrymore derived their viscount title from Buttevant, and the phrase is used as the motto of the family's heraldic bearings.

   Read the passage

   Buttevant is four miles from Doneraile. Its name long inspired terror, being the war-cry of the Barrys, a powerful Anglo-Norman family in Munster, — Boutezen-avant, " Push forward." It is used as the motto of the heraldic bearings of that family. The earls of Barrymore derived the title of viscount from Buttevant.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 91

3. Cistercian abbey of Our Lady de Castro Dei at Fermoy

   Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1270

   A Cistercian abbey called Our Lady de Castro Dei was founded at Fermoy in 1270 by Sir Richard de Rupella, Lord Justice of Ireland in 1261. The monks were brought from Suir Abbey in Tipperary and later received additional members from Furness Abbey in Lancashire.

   Read the passage

   254, Fiach Muillethan, king of Munster, bestowed the greater part of this country on the Druid, Mogruith, from whom it obtained the name of Dal-Mogruith. The druid, on coming into possession of this country, converted it into a kind of sanctuary, and on the high land which bounds it erected a number of altars and places of worship, some of which yet remain, hence called Magh Feine, or the sacred plain. The inhabitant was called Fier Magh Feine, or the man of the sacred plain, or Fier Magh, whence Fermoy.* The next account connects this place with religion in a purer form. A Cistertian abbey, called " Our Lady de Castro Dei," was founded here, in 1270, according to an Irish MS., though Archall, in his Monasticon Hibernicum, p. 69., mentions the prior in 1226. The founder was Sir Richard de Rupella, who was Lord Justice of Ireland in 1261. The monks were brought hither from Suir Abbey, in the county of Tipperary, and afterwards they received an accession of members from Furness Abbey in Lancashire.

   In 1591, a grant was made by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Richard Grenville, Knt., and his heirs, of this monastery, and the lands appurtenant, containing by estimate 550 acres, at the rent of 15/. 185. Ad. Irish money. These lands were afterwards assigned by the Lord Treasurer of England to Sir George Harvey, for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge was built over the river here, with thirteen arches, anno 1689, and cost 7500/.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here stood the Cistercian abbey of Our Lady de Castro Dei, founded in 1270. The founder was Sir Richard de Rupella, who had served as Lord Justice of Ireland in 1261. The monks were brought from Suir Abbey in Tipperary, and later they received more members from Furness Abbey in Lancashire. Long before the abbey, this country had older sacred associations. Fiach Muillethan, king of Munster, gave the greater part of the land to the druid Mogruith. The druid turned it into a kind of sanctuary and on the high ground built altars and places of worship, some of which still remained. The plain was called Magh Feine, the sacred plain. A man of it was called Fier Magh Feine, or Fier Magh, which gives us Fermoy. In 1591, Queen Elizabeth granted the monastery and its lands to Sir Richard Grenville and his heirs. The lands held about 550 acres, at a rent of 15 pounds, 18 shillings and 4 pence Irish money. Afterwards the Lord Treasurer of England assigned these lands to Sir George Harvey, for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and other lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge with 13 arches was built over the river here in 1689, costing 7500 pounds.

4. Clonmeen Castle destroyed in the wars of 1641

   Clonmeen · parish · Cork · 1641

   Clonmeen Castle, once a stronghold of great strength, was destroyed during the wars of 1641. Half a ruined flanking tower and a lofty wall are all that remain, and several cannon balls that battered the walls have been found on the site.

   Read the passage

   A little to the west, the south bank displays prostrate relics of feudal times. Half a ruined flanking tower, portion of a lofty wall, and remains of a parallel, constitute all that remains of Clonmeen Castle. This castle was destroyed during the wars of 1641, and several of the cannon balls which battered the walls have been found. It presents a melancholy spectacle of faded glory, as it must have been of great strength, presenting, even in decay, the lingering traces of former might. The lord of the soil, Mr. Grehan, mentioned to me his intention of restoring something of its pristine strength. Yet westward is the parish church, a plain edifice, without spire or tower, standing in an old graveyard. This was the burial place of the O'Callaghans, who, according to Colgan, founded a monastery here for Augustine friars. Most probably the portion of ruined wall close to the church is the remnant left by time to mark the spot hallowed by the piety of the monks of old. Around are numerous tombstones, marking where

   " The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep."

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 98

5. Dromagh Castle, Chief Seat of the O'Keeffes

   Dromagh · townland · Cork

   Dromagh Castle, about a mile north of the collieries, was the chief seat of the O'Keeffes. It consists of a quadrangle flanked by four circular towers, ivy-clad, with one tower fitted as a dwelling and the rest used by Mr. Leader as farmyard offices.

   Read the passage

   quadrangle, flanked by four circular towers, one at each corner. It was the chief seat of the O'Keeffes in former days, and the entrance is by an archway, with small towers in the walls on each hand. The entire remains are clad with ivy, which considerably increases the picturesque effect by diminishing the regularity of the building. One of the towers, fitted up, makes a comfortable dwelling. The greater portion of the building is in good repair, and used by Mr. Leader as his farmyard offices.

   The river winds for some time, and passes Fort Grady, formerly the residence of Lord Guillamore's family, a venerable mansion, now occupied by a farmer. Near this is a fort, planted with trees, whence it derives its name. We now behold the Kilcormy mountains, with those of Mushera.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 106

6. Dromana: first domestication of the cherry in Ireland

   Dromana · townland · Waterford

   The cherry is said to have been first domesticated in Ireland at Dromana, having been brought from the Canary Islands by Sir Walter Raleigh. This tradition links Raleigh's local possessions to the introduction of new crops.

   Read the passage

   and Viscount Desses," and dying without issue, his possessions (the title becoming extinct) descended to his brother, Sir James Fitzgerald, who removed from Cappagh to Dromana, where he died in December, 1581. We next find in " Burke's Peerage," vide note, that the Hon. Edward Villiers, in 1677, married Catharine, daughter and heiress of John Fitzgerald, Esq. of the Decies, lineally descended from James, the seventh Earl of Desmond, and who dying, left his eldest son John heir! to his grandfather, as fifth Viscount Grandison. His lordship was created Earl of Grandison 11th September, 1721. He was great-great-grandfather of the present noble lord, Henry Villiers Stuart, Baron Stuart de Decies, of Dromana, within the Decies, county of Waterford. The cherry is said to have been first domesticated in this country at Dromana, having been brought hither from the Canary Islands by Sir Walter Raleigh. That distinguished stranger had large possessions in this country, and, in truth, land must have been accounted of somewhat less value than at present, when we are informed by the author of " Researches in the South of Ireland " — " The lands of Affane are said to have been given by Garratt Fitzgerald for a breakfast to Sir Walter Raleigh."

   When seen from the opposite bank, the entire view is very fine. A slight portion of the old building remains, toppling the cliff.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 32

7. Fancy ball on South Mall, Cork

   South Mall · street · Cork

   A raucous fancy ball was held at a house on South Mall in Cork, identifiable by the shouts of merriment and blazing lights. The narrator arrived in his stained hunting attire and was enthusiastically received as a character, cheered by the crowd.

   Read the passage

   " There was no need to ask the house : the shouts of merriment that burst from the crowd before the door, greeting each character, as well as the lights blazing from cellar to garret, denoted it. Roche delayed for an instant, to write something on a card. He passed through the crowd with acclamation. I was greeted with great applause, and ' Three cheers, boys, for Captain Whackman, from Ballyhooly,' announced my name in the drawing-room ere the servants could have seen me. I found I was better known than I expected. ' How do you do, Captain Whackman ? — How did you leave all friends in Ballyhooly ? ' followed on all sides. Such civility I never met ; and 'twas not confined to my own countrymen and women, no faith ! but Turkses, and Jewses, and peoples of all nations, came to inquire kindly, ' How was Captain Whackman from Ballyhooly ? ' I was considered the best character there ; and when I tallied a vixen fox (a pretty little slip of a colleen with red hair), and gave chase, for she cut and run like winken, begad! the room was bursting with laughter. ' Drag on her and find her, my darlings,' I shouted. ' Hark together ! together ! Away, away with her ! ' and breast-high I hunted till she gave in, and we danced the fox-hunter's jig till cock crow. So

   * Shoes.

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 50

   As the companion tells it

   Along here on South Mall in Cork, a fancy ball was held at a house you had no need to ask for. The shouts of merriment bursting from the crowd before the door, and the lights blazing from cellar to garret, told you which one it was. Roche stopped for an instant to write something on a card, then passed through the crowd with acclamation. The narrator was greeted with great applause, and the cry of three cheers for Captain Whackman from Ballyhooly announced his name in the drawing-room before the servants could even see him. He found he was better known than he expected. People asked how he did and how he left all friends in Ballyhooly, on all sides. Such civility he had never met, and it was not confined to his own countrymen and women. Turkses, Jewses, and peoples of all nations came to inquire kindly how Captain Whackman from Ballyhooly was. He was considered the best character there. When he tallied a vixen fox, a pretty little slip of a colleen with red hair, and gave chase, the room was bursting with laughter. He shouted, drag on her and find her, my darlings, hark together, away with her. He hunted breast-high till she gave in, and they danced the fox-hunter's jig till cock crow.

8. Ferry-point at Youghal and its vanished rabbit warren

   Youghal · town · Cork

   A projecting spot of sand opposite Youghal called the ferry-point is traditionally said to have once extended halfway across the river. Persons alive at the time of writing remembered it as a large and profitable rabbit-warren, now much reduced.

   Read the passage

   Opposite the town of Youghal there is a projecting spot of sand called the ferrypoint, which is traditionally said to have extended at one time half way across the river, and which undoubtedly has been within the memory of man much more extensive than it is at present, persons now alive remembering it to have been a large and profitable rabbit-warren. Higher up than this is the creek of Pilltown, from which a flat valley, in many places as low as the sea-level, runs to Whiting Bay, and this bay is still called by an Irish name, which signifies " the mouth of the river." The narrow valley running from Pilltown to Whiting Bay is incontestably of alluvial or lacustrine formation, and in the part of Whiting Bay immediately adjoining Ardmore, it is evident that the sea would now inundate a portion of the valley, but for a high bank of shingle which forms the strand. The positive testimony of an ancient author singularly confirms the theory that the Blackwater, or at least a branch of it, anciently discharged itself into the sea in the vicinity of Ardmore, to which Whiting Bay closely adjoins ; for Necham says —

   10 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 11

9. Fitzgerald castles of Kilcushnan and Ballymacadam

   Ballymacadam · townland · Kerry

   The castles of Kilcushnan and Bally M'Adam, located not far from Ardnagragh, were strongholds of the Fitzgeralds of Desmond. The Fitzgerald brothers were said to have such unfraternal feelings that one brother would not permit the other certain liberties.

   Read the passage

   At Ardnagragh are the ruins of Desmond's chapel, which is close to the churchyard of Killanamana. Here were interred the remains of the great Earl of Desmond, styled, in history, Ingens rebellibus exemplar. His death-blow was given near this place. The account by Smith* is, " The Earl having taken a prey of cattle was pursued to Kerry, near the side of a mountain, and a little grove, through which one of the pursuers observed a fire not far off. One of the company on this information being sent to learn who were there, upon his return informed them there were five or six people in an old house ; whereupon they determined to attack them, and entering it found only an old man, the others being fled ; when one Daniel Kelly (who was afterwards hanged at Tyburn, although rewarded by Queen Elizabeth) almost cut off the Earl's arm with his sword, and repeating the blow over his head, the old man cried out, desiring them to save his life, for that he was the Earl of Desmond. Kelly upon this desisted, but the effusion of blood causing him to grow faint, and being unable to travel, he bade him prepare for death, and on the 11th of November, 1583, struck off his head, which was sent by the Earl of Ormond into England for a present to the Queen, who caused it to be fixed on London Bridge, and his body, after eight weeks' hiding, was buried at Killanamana." The castles of Kilcushnan and Bally M'Adam, not far from this, were strongholds of the Fitzgeralds of Desmond, who had so unfraternal a feeling, that one brother would not permit the other to pass safely through his lands.

   A wide tract of uncultivated country extends on both sides of the river, which now forms the boundary between Cork and Kerry. This country is called Pobble

   Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 110

10. Glanworth village, church, and castle

    Glanworth · town · Cork

    From the hill on the road to Glanworth, the River Funcheon comes into view with its green banks, along with the village of Glanworth. A church crowns a grassy knoll, beyond which stands an ancient castle with narrow embrasures, ruined archways, and dilapidated walls.

    Read the passage

    From the top of the hill, on the road to G-lanworth, whence the view of the Funcheon breaks suddenly on you, with its green and shady banks, sloping towards its clear bubbling waters, is seen the smart little village of Glanworth. The church crowning the grassy knoll, beyond which is the ancient and venerable castle, its narrow embrasures, ruined archways, and dilapidated walls, clearly defined against the ethereal vault. Here remains, for the inspection of the curious, the celebrated natural wonder called Laibhe Colloch, or the Hag's Bed, consisting of one huge rock, placed lengthways on two smaller ones. What makes it the more singular is, that no stone of the same genus is to be found in the surrounding country, and the prodigious size of the stones renders it unlikely that they could have been carried from any distance by the strength of men. Therefore the conclusion drawn by the untaught peasant is, that the good people, aliter the fairies, were the artificers.

    In a mud edifice, vulgarly yclept " cabin," at the foot of the aforesaid hill, there lived an old man, who went by the pet name of Shamus na Bo, or " James of the Cow," from his being for many years in the capacity of herd to one of the neighbouring gentry ; and long after he was deprived of his situation by age, the sobriquet remained undisturbed. Shamus was a constant guest and visitor at all the wakes and weddings in the barony, where his flow of spirits and merry tale procured him a hearty welcome. With the garrulity of old age, when talking of youthful feats, he was peculiarly proud when called on for a story, and generally contrived to make himself the hero. I had the good fortune to hear the following, which, for the reader's sake, " would it were worthier."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 65

11. Glendyne wooded glen and chapel

    Glendine · townland · Kilkenny

    Adjoining Ballinatra is a wooded glen called Glendyne, featuring a romantic drive alongside a rivulet, leading to a Roman Catholic Chapel and a National School. The glen is described as a picturesque valley in the Blackwater region.

    Read the passage

    Adjoining Ballinatra is a wooded glen, Glendyne, with a most romantic drive by the side of a brawling rivulet. This leads to a Roman Catholic Chapel and a National School.

    In the valley of Glendyne a rocky basin, not so perfect now as it was some years ago, is kept constantly full by a stream falling from a cliff above, the superfluous water dripping over the sides of the basin. Tradition states that there were sorcerers who could raise the shadows of futurity on the surface of this fluid mirror ; and it required but little exertion of the credulous imagination to give form and pressure to the varying shades which indistinctly appear on its dark waters. Similar legends are found attached to these natural rock basins in all parts of Europe, confirming Warburton's assertion, that hydromancy is one of the most widely spread forms of divination. He thinks, from the name of the place where the witch resided who invoked Samuel — "Endor," i.e. "perpetual fountain,"— that she had intended to consult the shadows on one of those natural mirrors ; and that this will explain her astonishment when a spirit appeared instead of a shade. An old man in Glendyne, had some faint recollection of a habitation which described a fair lady going to discover in the rocky basin the fate of her lover who had enlisted in the Irish brigade ; she beheld him falling in battle, and soon after died of a broken heart. On the day of her funeral intelligence arrived of her lover having fallen in some skirmish, nearly at the time when she beheld the fatal vision.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 29

12. Gothic Architecture of Castle Hyde Church

    Castlehyde · townland · Cork

    Within the precincts of the Castle Hyde demesne stands a handsome Gothic church approached from the Mallow road. The interior is richly groined and stuccoed, illuminated by a stained glass window, and furnished with oak pews and a gallery produced from the estate's own timber.

    Read the passage

    is supported on each side by wings, of architecture simple yet substantial ; the entire, as seen in the sketch, presenting an air of dignified propriety of building, better according to the stately trees, and solitary grandeur of the place, than a more elaborately designed mansion. Further down in the distance, the river is lost among knotted stumps and twisting boughs, overarching its flood, and forming a superb vista. This portion would be quite a study for an artist curious in light and shade, as the water, like a mirror, reflects objects with extraordinary distinctness. From the bank opposite a long range of highlands uprear their fertile bosoms, from which numberless clumps of trees grow in every variety of grouping. Beneath their majestic shade repose the antlered herd, meet habitants for such a spot. The gardens, north of the house, are very extensive, and well planned. The drive to the back entrance, by the brink of the river, is very picturesque. Castle Hyde church is within the precincts of the demesne, also approached from the Mallow road, and presents a handsome Gothic building. The interior is tasteful, and suitably ornamented, being richly groined and stuccoed. A stained glass window gives a gorgeous and brilliant light to the aisle. The pews and gallery of oak were the produce of the estate. The surrounding grave-yard possesses many tributes of the affection which the living bear those who are gone a little before us to that promised land where the " wicked cease from troubling and the weary are at rest."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 74

13. Hidden cupboard with ancient books at Myrtle Grove

    Youghal · town · Cork

    While repairing the drawing-room at Myrtle Grove in Youghal, a concealed cupboard was discovered containing old books, including one printed in Mantua in 1479 and another ecclesiastical history printed at Strasburgh in 1483. The books came into the possession of Matthew Hayman, Esq., of Youghal.

    Read the passage

    While repairing the pannels of the drawing-room at Myrtle Grove, some years since, a cupboard, or small recess, concealed by the wainscot, was disclosed. It contained some old books ; one very valuable, in boards literally, the covers being oak, covered with leather, and bound by large clasps, now in the possession of Matthew Hayman, Esq. The work consists of two parts. One in black letter, with coloured initials, contains events from the time of Moses to the days of Saints Peter and Paul, and appears to have been printed in Mantua, 1479. The other, an ecclesiastical History of Peter Comester, by John Schallus, Professor of Physic, at Hornfield ; and is dedicated to Prince Gonzales. This part was printed at Strasburgh, 1483.

    In connection with this ancient residence, I may mention the family of Hayman, to whom it has belonged for some time. Robert of Gloucester, in his curious old Chronicle, gives the origin of this name, deriving it from jgtfgtttOtt, " a high man."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 22

14. Lismore Castle bridge over the Blackwater

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    A fine bridge spans the Blackwater at Lismore with a great arch of a hundred feet and six smaller ones beneath the causeway. It was erected by the late Duke of Devonshire at a cost of £9,000.

    Read the passage

    It is situated on the summit of a perpendicular range of woody rock, overhanging the Blackwater. The scene which meets the sight is very beautiful. The bridge, a fine structure, spans the main part of the river by the great arch of a hundred feet, and we see six smaller ones underneath the causeway, intended to carry off the flood. This bridge was erected by the late Duke of Devonshire, at the cost of 9000/. Immediately above the light and graceful bridge appears the thick foliage of huge trees, flinging their boughs over the river, while richly covered rocks rise to a fearful height, crowned by the feudal towers of this ducal pile. The portions next us half disclose their antique casements, the ivied turrets and shelving roofs are concealed by the nodding trees. Farther off, the squarebuilt towers are boldly defined against the brown woods, and high over all the venerable and lofty trees raise their shady branches, and form a verdant canopy. I proceeded to visit the interior, and, as I paced along the ancient avenue, felt awed by the solitary grandeur of the scene. Beside me the tall trees cast a shadow on the outer gate-house in front, giving its neglected towers a deep and solemn shade. Behind it was the stately castle, lifting its high embattled walls, blackened by the hand of time, and ivy the growth of centuries. I thought of Lord Frederick Evesham, in Florence Mac Carthy, terrifying Lady Dunore at this spot, as thus described by Lady Morgan : —

    " The splendid cavalcade at last arrived before the turreted gates of the castle of Dunore ; and, as the carriages rolled over the pavement of the gloomy court, and the tenants of the old rookery in the rear of the castle screamed their disapprobation of the unusual intrusion, Lady Dunore's susceptible spirits again sank from their high -wound pitch.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

15. Raths with subterranean chambers near Fermoy racecourse

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    A fort or rath of supposed Danish origin stands close to the town of Fermoy on the racecourse, containing subterranean chambers. Local superstition holds that these raths are the residence of sheeogues (fairies) and that misfortune attends anyone who disturbs the fairy territory.

    Read the passage

    There are other objects of antiquity in this neighbourhood, consisting of forts or raths, supposed to be of Danish origin, but many clever antiquarians assert, are of far greater antiquity. One is quite close to the town of Fermoy, on the racecourse, with subterranean chambers. These underground chambers are very numerous in this district. I visited them at Ballyhinden and Castle Hyde, which are precisely similar. Annexed is a sketch of the entrance-ground place, and

    -

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Fermoy, somewhere around here, there's a fort or rath on the racecourse, with subterranean chambers underneath it. Some say it's Danish in origin, but clever antiquarians argue it's far older. Underground chambers like these are numerous in this district. Similar ones were visited at Ballyhinden and Castle Hyde. Local superstition holds that these raths are home to sheeogues, the fairies, and that misfortune comes to anyone who disturbs their ground.

16. Robert Boyle, philosopher, at Lismore Castle

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    Robert Boyle, described as the father of modern chemistry and a brother of the Earl of Cork, is associated with Lismore Castle.

    Read the passage

    King James II. dined in this room, and, on looking out of the window, nearly fell back in terror at its precipitate elevation over the river. In another apartment, Robert Boyle, the philosopher, " father of modern chemistry, and brother

    :

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

17. Captain Whackman's demesne at Ballyhooly

    Ballyhooly · town · Cork

    Captain Whackman's residence was at Ballyhooly, where his demesne wall marked the entrance to his property. After a night of drinking, his servant Brian Hegarty drove him the wrong way and he awoke near Cork instead of at Ballyhooly.

    Read the passage

    " We finished a magnum of port, and a six-bottle cooper of claret, to say nothing of half a dozen tumblers of ould Tommy Walker, and I fell asleep, when I got into the jaunting car that was sent to drive me home, for they knew where I was to dine, an' I used generally get comfortable there. But Brian Hegarty (your hunstman to-day, as honest a boy as ever broke bread) I fancy got a little comfortable too : the night was dark, he said, for he turned his horse's head the wrong way, and, by Jove, when I awoke near twelve o'clock, instead of finding myself at my own demesne wall, going into Ballyhooly, where should I be but passing Glanmire, and just entering the streets of Cork.

    " ' What place is this, Brian ? ' says I.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 50

18. Clashmore and the Earl of Huntingdon

    Clashmore · town · Waterford

    Clashmore, located near where the river Lickey meets the Blackwater, became the property of the Earl of Huntingdon through his intermarriage with Miss Power. Loughtane is also noted as being near the river.

    Read the passage

    Near the place where the river Lickey falls into the Black water is Clashmore, which, on the intermarriage with Miss Power, became the property of the Earl of Huntingdon. Loughtane is near the river. At some distance to the left are ruins which give abundant evidence of the extent and durability of the building. This is Strancally Castle, one of the fortresses of the Desmonds.

    From the Castle to the river a passage was hewn through the rock of considerable length and breadth, and pretty deep. From these ruined towers is procured an extensive view of the surrounding country, and many a stronghold of the princely Desmond, wherein the various members of that powerful race resided with their martial retainers.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 29

19. Dromaneen Castle and the O'Callaghans

    Dromaneen · townland · Cork · 1603–1641

    Dromaneen Castle, the chief seat of the O'Callaghans, sits boldly on the river's edge and was built during the reign of King James I on older foundations. Cahir O'Callaghan forfeited the estate after the 1641 war, and it later housed an English garrison before passing to new owners.

    Read the passage

    This noble pile is boldly situated on the very verge of the river, the cliffs supporting the foundation leaning almost over the water. In former days it was the chief seat of the O'Callaghans, ancestors of the present Lord Lismore, on whose estate I was told this castle is situated : an extensive lawn surrounds the main building ; this was enclosed by a wall, now entirely in ruins, and formerly flanked by round towers. The present ruined building was erected in the reign of King James I., on the foundation of a former castle, which the constant wars of these turbulent times had nearly razed to the ground. In King William III.'s reign this castle belonged to the English, who maintained a garrison for a considerable time, under the command of Lieut. Col. Calliford. In 19 Car. 2. Sir Richard Kyrle passed a patent for this castle of Drumaneen, and other lands in Duhallow and Fermoy, which were forfeited by Donogh O'Callaghan in 1641 ; and in 2 Jac. 2. Richard Newman, Esq. passed a patent for the castle and lands of Drumaneen, and other lands paying into the exchequer 541. 3s. 8d., as appears in Smith's " History of Cork."

    Directly opposite this picturesque ruin is a noble demesne and spacious mansion, Longueville, the seat of J. Longfield, Esq. The house is situated on a height, and commands a splendid view. It consists of a square centre, with wings, and has a fine appearance. The demesne is thickly wooded; but a judicious vista in the trees bordering the road affords an opening through which the castle of Drumaneen is visible.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 96

20. Fairy origin of the Hag's Bed stones

    Labbacallee · townland · Cork

    The stones of Laibhe Colloch are of a genus not found anywhere in the surrounding country, and their prodigious size makes it unlikely they were carried by human strength. The untaught peasant concludes that the fairies, or 'good people,' were the artificers.

    Read the passage

    From the top of the hill, on the road to G-lanworth, whence the view of the Funcheon breaks suddenly on you, with its green and shady banks, sloping towards its clear bubbling waters, is seen the smart little village of Glanworth. The church crowning the grassy knoll, beyond which is the ancient and venerable castle, its narrow embrasures, ruined archways, and dilapidated walls, clearly defined against the ethereal vault. Here remains, for the inspection of the curious, the celebrated natural wonder called Laibhe Colloch, or the Hag's Bed, consisting of one huge rock, placed lengthways on two smaller ones. What makes it the more singular is, that no stone of the same genus is to be found in the surrounding country, and the prodigious size of the stones renders it unlikely that they could have been carried from any distance by the strength of men. Therefore the conclusion drawn by the untaught peasant is, that the good people, aliter the fairies, were the artificers.

    In a mud edifice, vulgarly yclept " cabin," at the foot of the aforesaid hill, there lived an old man, who went by the pet name of Shamus na Bo, or " James of the Cow," from his being for many years in the capacity of herd to one of the neighbouring gentry ; and long after he was deprived of his situation by age, the sobriquet remained undisturbed. Shamus was a constant guest and visitor at all the wakes and weddings in the barony, where his flow of spirits and merry tale procured him a hearty welcome. With the garrulity of old age, when talking of youthful feats, he was peculiarly proud when called on for a story, and generally contrived to make himself the hero. I had the good fortune to hear the following, which, for the reader's sake, " would it were worthier."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 65

21. Lismore as birthplace of dramatist Congreve

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    Lismore is by some accounts the birthplace of the dramatist William Congreve, whose father held a military appointment in the south of Ireland. Congreve was educated partly at Kilkenny and completed his studies in Dublin before being sent to the Middle Temple at age sixteen.

    Read the passage

    Lismore is by some said to be the birth-place of Congreve, the dramatist ; his father having some military appointment in Lreland, which occasioned his being stationed in the South. He was educated partly at Kilkenny, and afterwards completed his studies in Dublin. When at the age of sixteen he was sent to study law in the Middle Temple, where he lived for several years ; but with little progress in the science of jurisprudence.

    The historic recollections of Lismore are not confined to its ancient renown as a literary institution, or the fame of its castle. Here, according to Matthew Paris, Henry II. first promulgated English law in L-eland in 1172. After landing at Waterford he marched to this place, where he was met by the chiefs of Munster, who, with the archbishops, bishops, and abbots of Ireland, swore allegiance, and gave him a charter confirming the kingdom of Ireland to him and his heirs for ever.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 40

22. Lismore Castle interior and setting described

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    Lismore Castle sits on a perpendicular woody rock overhanging the Blackwater. Inside are choice paintings, two tapestry pieces depicting a Dutch Wedding and Dutch Fair, and the Earl of Cork's motto over the archway.

    Read the passage

    It is situated on the summit of a perpendicular range of woody rock, overhanging the Blackwater. The scene which meets the sight is very beautiful. The bridge, a fine structure, spans the main part of the river by the great arch of a hundred feet, and we see six smaller ones underneath the causeway, intended to carry off the flood. This bridge was erected by the late Duke of Devonshire, at the cost of 9000/. Immediately above the light and graceful bridge appears the thick foliage of huge trees, flinging their boughs over the river, while richly covered rocks rise to a fearful height, crowned by the feudal towers of this ducal pile. The portions next us half disclose their antique casements, the ivied turrets and shelving roofs are concealed by the nodding trees. Farther off, the squarebuilt towers are boldly defined against the brown woods, and high over all the venerable and lofty trees raise their shady branches, and form a verdant canopy. I proceeded to visit the interior, and, as I paced along the ancient avenue, felt awed by the solitary grandeur of the scene. Beside me the tall trees cast a shadow on the outer gate-house in front, giving its neglected towers a deep and solemn shade. Behind it was the stately castle, lifting its high embattled walls, blackened by the hand of time, and ivy the growth of centuries. I thought of Lord Frederick Evesham, in Florence Mac Carthy, terrifying Lady Dunore at this spot, as thus described by Lady Morgan : —

    " The splendid cavalcade at last arrived before the turreted gates of the castle of Dunore ; and, as the carriages rolled over the pavement of the gloomy court, and the tenants of the old rookery in the rear of the castle screamed their disapprobation of the unusual intrusion, Lady Dunore's susceptible spirits again sank from their high -wound pitch.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

23. Mallow Castle demesne and town description

    Mallow · town · Cork

    The demesne at Mallow is thickly wooded with pleasing scenery, including a picturesque cottage and a landscape formed by the river, bridge, and old castle. The town is extensive and a place of great trade, with flour mills, a brewery, banks, and a good hotel kept by Mr. Fitzmaurice.

    Read the passage

    are, richly wainscoted with dark oak, and handsomely furnished. There is a fine painting by Sir Godfrey Kneller, representing King William III. in his robes, " the gift," Sir Denham Norreys informed me, " of that monarch to one of his ancestors." At the opposite end of the apartment, or rather apartments, as they open en suite, is a small recess, containing an antique-looking casement. The blazoned window represents the arms of the Norreys family, and the painting is after one which belonged to an ancient residence of theirs in England. The demesne is thickly wooded, and abounds with pleasing scenery. There is a picturesque -looking cottage, and an agreeable landscape formed by the river, bridge, and old castle. The town is very extensive, and a place of great trade. There are a number of factories of different kinds, flour mills of Messrs. Brady, and Molloy and Co., a brewery, banks, &c. There is a very good hotel, the proprietor of which, Mr. Fitzmaurice, is always attentive and obliging.

    The advantages which Mallow possesses in its situation, its inhabitants, chiefly comfortable men of business, engaged in a thriving retail trade, having a numerous landed proprietary constantly residing in the vicinity, and enjoying much repute as a resort for invalids, render it one of the most flourishing towns in Munster ; and if its numerous poor had useful employment, would present a far more favourable appearance than when last we cast our eyes opposite Fitzmaurice's hotel, and saw, with sorrow, the groups of sturdy peasants waiting to be employed at the

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 89

24. Mitchelstown Castle of the Earl of Kingston

    Mitchelstown · townland · Cork

    About eight miles north of Fermoy stands Mitchelstown, where the Earl of Kingston has a magnificent Gothic-style castle worth seeing. The hospitable lord receives strangers with a hearty welcome.

    Read the passage

    About eight miles north of Fermoy is Mitchelstown. The Earl of Kingston has a magnificent castle here, in the Gothic style, which is well worth seeing, and the hospitable lord of the castle always receives strangers with a hearty welcome. On his extensive estates, about eight miles further, nearly midway between -Mitchelstown and Cahir, are vast subterranean caverns with beautiful stalactites. The best account yet given of these caves is in Hall's " Ireland," and we extract it for the benefit of tourists : —

    " The hill in which the cave exists rises in nearly the centre of a valley, which

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 59

25. Sculptured Church at Ardmore

    Ardmore · town · Waterford

    The ruined church at Ardmore was a richly sculptured edifice featuring twelve bas-relief figures under Saxon arches on its west gable. These figures are thought to represent the twelve Apostles.

    Read the passage

    The church, close by, was a splendid edifice, richly sculptured. There are yet evident on the west gable twelve bas-relief figures, each under a small Saxon arch. Mr. Croker, in his " Researches in the South of Ireland," has given a very full account of this interesting spot. These figures, he supposes, were intended for the twelve Apostles. Underneath these are the Baptism, a Sacrifice, the Judgment of Solomon, with figures of our First Parents, and the Tree of Knowledge between them.

    Near at hand is St. Declan's bed, a small stone hut with one window, per-

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 23

26. Abbey of Saint Molanfide on Molana Island

    Molana Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Waterford · 501

    The Abbey of Saint Molanfide, founded in 501 by Saint Molanfide for canons regular, stands on what was formerly an island called Dar Inis or Molana, now united to the mainland. A statue representing the saint in the flowing robes of his order was erected on a pedestal in the cloister by Mrs. Mary Broderick Smith in 1820.

    Read the passage

    The Abbey of Saint Molanfide, on the island just mentioned, is in the superb demesne of Richard Smith, Esq., whose mansion, Ballinatra, is contiguous. This Abbey was founded in 501, by Saint Molanfide for canons regular. He was first abbot ; and a statue, representing him in the flowing robes of his order, is placed on a pedestal in the cloister. An inscription bears the name of the lady whose taste introduced so appropriately this excellent representation of the Monk of Old — " Erected by Mrs. Mary Broderick Smith, a. d. 1820." The Abbey must have

    34

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 28

27. Ballymacmoy House and James Hennessy

    Ballymacmoy · townland · Cork

    An excellent mansion called Ballymacmoy House (or the Rock) is built on the summit of limestone rocks above the river, with a spacious lawn ornamented with trees and flower-gardens. It is the property of James Hennessy, Esq.

    Read the passage

    A strong stone bridge below Monaminy Castle leads to Killevullen, a pretty village on the Mallow road. At the south end of the bridge, large limestone rocks descend from a great height into the water ; some large caverns are observable in their sides. An excellent mansion is built on the summit, called the Rock or Ballymacmoy House. It has a spacious lawn in front, ornamented with trees and flowergardens. This picturesque mansion is the property of James Hennessy, Esq. ; and during his residence in France, was occupied by Mrs. O'Geran, who kept the grounds and flower-gardens models of taste and horticultural perfection. A short distance north is Ballygriffin, a pretty cottage of J. Creagh, Esq. Near this is Killura, the seat of the late Cornelius Linehan, Esq., now the property of Mrs. O'Geran. In front of the house is a venerable tree, or rather group of trees, for there are three distinct trunks, whether growing from one or more roots I cannot say ; this is called St. Cranith's tree. Mrs. Linehan, whose name previously to her marriage was Sarsfield, a descendant of the Great Earl of Lucan, had a tastefully arranged flower-garden at the feet of those aged foresters. The view from the house is beautiful. There is a finely wooded glen at Killura ; a favourite fox covert for the hunters of Duhallow. To the west is Castle Kiflin, formerly a seat of the Roches, now the property of B. Thornhill, Esq.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 84

28. Castlehaven's troops at Blackwater near Fermoy ford, 1645

    Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1645

    In April 1645, the Earl of Castlehaven followed from Mitchelstown to the Blackwater near the ford of Fermoy and drew his foot soldiers and cannon into an old Danish fort. He waited there uneasily for news of his horse.

    Read the passage

    " April, 1645. — I followed slowly (from Mitchelstown), and coming to the Blackwater, near the ford of Fermoy, drew my foot and cannon into an old Danish fort, Ireland being full of them ; and having stayed there a good while, and hearing no news of my horse, I began to be uneasy.

    * The Lisclash estate was granted by patent, in the 14th of Charles L, to Henry Headley, and it has ever since remained in the possession of his descendants. The patent included the lands of Downing and Ballyvoluck on the Funcheon.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Fermoy, in April 1645, the Earl of Castlehaven followed slowly from Mitchelstown and came to the Blackwater, near the ford of Fermoy. He drew his foot and cannon into an old Danish fort, Ireland being full of them. He stayed there a good while, and hearing no news of his horse, he began to be uneasy.

29. Castle of Dromaneen, O'Callaghan stronghold on the Blackwater

    Dromaneen · townland · Cork

    The castle of Dromaneen stands on a steep crag above the Blackwater, three to four miles west of Mallow, and belonged in feudal times to the chief of the O'Callaghan race, kinsmen of the McCarthys. The present remains are judged to date from the Tudor era, coeval with the neighbouring castle of Mallow.

    Read the passage

    " At a distance of between three and four miles west of Mallow," writes Mr. Windele, " stands on a steep crag above the river the castle of Drumaneen, which, in its feudal day, belonged to the chief of the race of O'Callaghan, a family deriving from a common ancestry with the princely house of McCarthy. The name of the site, Drumaneen, or more correctly, Drown Fineen, once belonged to an extended territory, which lay at each side of the Blackwater from its source to its termination. It indicates a tract identified in Irish history with an event placed many generations before the time of Kimbaoth, in that dreamy period which the old annalist, Tigernach, has characterised as ' incerta? The first war between the Scoto-Milesian brothers, Heber and Eremon, arose from the cupidity of the queen of the former prince. Already possessed of the two fairest vales in Ireland, she saw and coveted that of Drumaneen, certainly not inferior to any other in Ireland. Her unjust pretensions led to a war between the brothers, the issue of which was decided in a pitched battle on the plain of Geishiol, in Ossory, wherein Heber was slain, and the power of his house crushed for some subsequent generations."

    What Cromwell said of the Tipperary " Golden Vein," when its luxuriant beauty lay outstretched before him, might well be repeated of Drumaneen, that it is " surely a country worth fighting for." Its loveliness and fertility would almost justify the desire of the picturesque-loving queen, even though its indulgence should cost a civil war. We speak, of course, with that kind of moral sense which may be presumed to have been in the ascendant in those fine old times, when sufficed

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 95

30. Castletownroche village and church inscription

    Castletownroche · town · Cork · 1585

    Castletownroche is romantically situated on a sloping hill with the river Awbeg at its base. The church near the bridge has a stone inscribed in Latin for Maurici Roche, Viscount of Fermoy, dated 1585, which the author deciphered readily.

    Read the passage

    On a gentle mount near the bridge is the pretty church. A stone which is imbedded in the wall bears the following inscription, which was so plain as to permit my deciphering it readily : —

    Orate Pro bono statu Domini Maurici Roche Vicecomes de Fermoy et Domine Elinorie Maurici et Pro Anima ejus, Anno Domini 1585.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 82

31. Convamore, seat of the Earl of Listowel at Ballyhooly

    Ballyhooly · town · Cork

    Convamore is a plain but beautifully situated mansion on the Blackwater, embellished with fine paintings. Its avenue leads along the brow of the bank descending abruptly to the water, with views of river windings through wood and lawn to the castle ruins and bridge. The village of Ballyhooly has about 100 houses, a church, chapel, and national school.

    Read the passage

    The village is small, consisting of about 100 houses. There is a church and chapel, a good national school ; and some of the young men have formed themselves into an admirable band, under the patronage of the Earl of Listowel and his excellent lady. The numerous works of charity and beneficence of this truly amiable noble pair have deservedly acquired for them and their family the fervent gratitude of the neighbouring poor : 0 si sic omnes ! In the demesne of Convamore is a spring impregnated with carbonate of lime.

    About half a mile west is Rinny, the property of Henry Smyth, Esq. J. P. It formerly belonged to the Rev. C. Wallis ; and close to the house are the ruins of

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 77

32. Earl of Clarendon and James II visit Lismore Castle

    Lismore · town · Waterford · 1686–1689

    In 1686, the Earl of Clarendon slept within the walls of Lismore Castle during his tour of Munster. In 1689, King James II visited the castle and dined there.

    Read the passage

    5000 Irish, under Sir Richard Beling, but was bravely defended by the Earl's son, Lord Broghill, and the assailants compelled to retire. In 1643, a party of insurgents, in retaliation for the destruction of Clogheen by the garrison of Lismore, burned a number of thatched houses, killed sixty of the inhabitants, and made several prisoners. And, in the same year, General Purcell united his forces with those of Lord Muskerry, and laid siege to the castle. After a week, a cessation of arms was agreed to, and the besiegers withdrew. The castle suffered much in this war, and was subsequently burned by Lord Castlehaven, in 1645. It was somewhat repaired soon after, for we find, in 1686, the Earl of Clarendon, in his tour through Munster, slept within the walls ; and again, in 1689, it was visited by James II. In 1785, the Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, held a council here, and issued several proclamations. The castle, with its appurtenances, descended from the Earls of Cork and Burlington, by marriage, in 1748, of Lady Charlotte Boyle with William Cavendish, fourth Duke of Devonshire, the ancestor of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 38

33. Evening scene at Lismore bridge and castle

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    Inglis describes the view from the bridge at Lismore at evening, when the deep woods, the grey ivy-grown castle towers, the still river, and the tapering spire of the church combine to form a scene of great beauty. The description captures the interplay of shade and gilded slopes as the sun streams up the valley.

    Read the passage

    Inglis says, " Nothing can exceed in richness and beauty the view from the bridge, when at evening the deep woods, and the grey castle, and the still river, are left in shade, while the sun, streaming up the valley, gilds all the soft slopes and knolls that lie opposite ; the bridge ; the castle, grey and massive, with its ruined and ivy -grown towers ; and the beautiful tapering spire of the church ; all combine to form a scene we gaze on with pleasure, and turn away from with regret."

    There are numerous weirs on this part of the river — no fewer than forty-two salmon weirs between Youghal and Lismore ; one under the castle is very productive : the fishing is rented from the Duke by Mr. Foley, at 700/. a year. In

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 39

34. Kilmurray seat and limestone cliff on the Blackwater

    Kilmurry · townland · Cork

    Kilmurry, the seat of Thomas Grant, Esq., is a fine old mansion commandingly placed on the side of a well-wooded hill on the north bank. A new line of road close to the water reveals a vast cliff of limestone useful for building and lime-burning, highlighting the benefit of inland navigation for interchange of products.

    Read the passage

    The river winds like a writhing serpent, and is very shallow and rapid above Macollop. A little west of the house are traces where stood a wooden bridge, swept away by a high flood in 1838, to the great inconvenience of the inhabitants of the district. All along the north bank rich lawns, dotted with clumps of noble trees, lead to Kilmurry, seat of Thomas Grant, Esq. The new line of road, close to the water, shows a vast cliff of limestone, which would be of the greatest benefit if transported to districts where such material is required for buildings, or limeburning. This is one of the great benefits which the facility of intercourse, brought on by inland navigation, confers — the facility of interchange of products of the various districts along the banks.

    To the south is a wooded tract of country lying in the county of Waterford, called Waterpark, where are still to be seen the remains of a stately mansion, formerly belonging to Chief Justice Pyne. There is a district on the north bank, called Inchinlema, in which was anciently a castle of Grauna ni Churimuth, but of which I could find no trace save vague tradition. A well, by the road-side, is called Tubber Grauna, and Garrison Well. A military barrack was here formerly, and a tan-yard : they too have gone, and left no sign ; but there are good farmhouses belonging to Michael Quirk, and two brothers named Flynn. Kilmurry is a fine old mansion, commandingly placed, on the side of a well-wooded hill on the north bank ; and its proprietor, Mr. Grant, promises fair to sustain the highly esteemed character of his honourable house. Opposite is Kilbarry, the splendidly situate and hospitable mansion of Henry Wigmore, Esq. Higher up than Kilmurry we meet a small island in the river. The north bank here falls precipitously into the stream, a dense mass of rock : tall firs nod from the summit. Opposite,

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla

35. The enchanted horse of Cloghleagh Castle

    Cloghleagh Castle · monument · Cork

    Larry Toomy recounts being carried by an enchanted horse that dragged him through the thorns at the base of Cloghleagh Castle and leaped across its chimneys. The horse later revealed itself as his wife's uncle, claiming to reside in the castle and bridge.

    Read the passage

    " Well, Sir, he leaped up on the bridge, over to the opposite battlement, an' to my gratist ov consternashin, down again into the river ! I wasn't kilt, for we went on, 'till at last we came to the feet ov Cloghleagh Castle, at the bottom of which there grows an immensity ov all sorts — thorns, furze, briars, brambles, through

    * Bully.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    Right beside the road here is Cloghleagh Castle. Larry Toomy told of an enchanted horse that carried him over the bridge and down into the river, then on to the foot of the castle, where thorns, furze, briars and brambles grow. The horse later revealed itself as his wife's uncle, who said he lived in the castle and the bridge.

36. Watergrasshill and the Prout Papers of Rev. Francis Mahony

    Watergrasshill · town · Cork

    Watergrasshill is celebrated from the writings of the Rev. Francis Mahony, entitled the Prout Papers. Rev. Mr. Prout had been parish priest of Watergrasshill. Near it is Mitchellsfort, a good house and lawn, seat of Brazier Mitchell, Esq.

    Read the passage

    About three miles south, on the Cork road, is the town of Rathcormac. The handsome Elizabethan mansion of Lord Riversdale, and the exquisitely laid out ground of his demesne Lisnegar, are worthy a visit. On the south bank of the river Bride, crossed by a fine bridge, is Kilshanick, one of the princely seats of Edmund Roche, Esq., father of Edmund Burke Roche, Esq., M.P. for the county of Cork : it is a spacious mansion of noble proportions, said to have been built upon a plan of Inigo Jones : it formerly belonged to A. Devonsher, Esq. Near Watergrasshill, celebrated from the writings of the Rev. Francis Mahony, entitled the Prout Papers (Rev. Mr. Prout had been parish priest of Watergrasshill), is a good house and lawn, Mitchellsfort, seat of Brazier Mitchell, Esq. To the east of Rathcormac is Castle Lyons, a small town ; near this are extensive walls of Lord Barrymore's house, which was destroyed by an accidental fire : built in the Elizabethan style, they are mighty even in ruins. Kilcor, the elevated castle of Cornelius O'Brien, Esq., is seated on a hill south of the town ; and at some distance is Ballyvolane, the residence of Jasper Pyne, Esq. Close to the banks of the Bride, spanned by a high narrow bridge, is Conna, with its strong tower, a castle of the Desmonds ; and near Knockmourne is Moidghialladh, where is pointed out the " Church of the Vow," whence Moygeely is derived. The ruins here are very extensive. This was the chief seat of Fitzgerald, Earl of Desmond, "whose vast estates," Dr. Curry remarks, " was a strong inducement to the chief governor of Ireland to make or proclaim him a rebel, their prey being insured to them in either case by his forfeiture." The occasion of building the church is as follows : — Thomas, the great Earl of Desmond, had a favourite steward, who often took great liberties with his lord, and by his permission tyrannised over his tenants equally with himself. This steward, unknown to the Earl, invited, in his name, a large party of the chiefs of Munster with their retainers to spend a month in the castle. They

    :

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 58

    As the companion tells it

    This town you are passing through, Watergrasshill in Cork, is celebrated from the writings of the Reverend Francis Mahony, entitled the Prout Papers. The Reverend Mr. Prout had been parish priest of the place. Near it stands Mitchellsfort, a good house and lawn, the seat of Brazier Mitchell, Esquire.

37. Wooden bridge over the Blackwater at Youghal

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1828

    A wooden bridge over the Blackwater near Youghal was erected after a design by Mr. Nimmo under an act of parliament passed in 1828. It was constructed of Munich fir, measured 1787 feet in length and 22 feet in width within the rails, and cost over £30,000.

    Read the passage

    This bridge was erected after a design by Mr. Nimmo, under the provisions of an act of parliament passed in 1828. It is formed of Munich fir, and is 1787 feet in length, 22 feet wide within the rails, and cost over 30,000/.

    This bridge passed, we leave Muckridge House to the left, ensconced among the luxuriant trees ; and now every bend in the course presents a succession of charming scenes, perpetually presenting new beauties as they are disclosed by the shifting our position with respect to them. The river is here fished by means of small boats, somewhat resembling canoes, and not unfrequently a rosy-cheeked peasant girl is the sole mariner, crossing from one side to the other. A high rocky hill breasts the water ; crumbling ruins crown the summit. These are all that remain of Rhincrew Abbey, reputed to have been a preceptory of the Knights Templars, which, on the suppression of that order in tins country, formed part of the grant made in 1586 to Sir Walter Raleigh, and subsequently sold by him to the Earl of Cork. The ruins are very extensive, consisting of a variety of apart-

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 25

38. Field intrenchments between Rhincrew and Temple-Michael

    Templemichael · townland · Waterford

    On the hill between Rhincrew and Temple-Michael, traces of field intrenchments of considerable extent are visible. Both tradition and history are silent as to their nature or object.

    Read the passage

    There is a tradition that spacious apartments, now choked with rubbish, were excavated by the knights in the rock on which the preceptory stands, and that from thence subterranean passages led to secret sally-ports at different parts of the river. The ruins were too dilapidated to admit of such researches as would test the truth of this tale, and we fear that there is not enough of antiquarian enterprise and enthusiasm in the neighbourhood to stimulate to so toilsome and expensive an investigation. On the hill between Rhincrew and Temple-Michael, there are traces of some field intrenchments of considerable extent ; but tradition and history are silent as to their nature or object.

    Leaving Rhincrew, we steer into a broad and placid lake, to which the artist has done much justice; and here the first object which attracts notice is the squareembattled tower of Temple-Michael, contrasting well with the graceful church

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 27

39. Mallow bridge as sole Blackwater crossing, 1666

    Mallow · town · Cork · 1666

    In a letter dated 3 April 1666, Lord Orrery wrote from Charleville that there was but one bridge over the Blackwater, at Mallow, calling it one of the greatest passes in the province. He noted the river was forty miles navigable for boats and that the castle needed little reparation to be defensible.

    Read the passage

    ster, thought they ought to have a general of their own province ; but to avoid disputes among the lords, they pitched upon Garret Barry as their general, who had long served under the King of Spain, and was reputed to be a good soldier ; Lord Muskerry, and other leaders, acting as a council of war. On the 15th February, 1642, a party of Lord Roche's forces, joined by several of M'Donough's, assailed Mr. Clayton's castle, near Mallow, and employed ten masons in making a breach in the wall, they having no battering artillery. The garrison made a resolute defence. A large barn was set on fire, that the smoke and flame might procure the assailants admission : it only assisted the besieged, without doing them any injury; for, occurring at night, it threw a bright light over the country outside the walls, and every shot from the castle found a victim. It is said that 200 of the Irish forces were killed, and 140 wounded. A breach being at length effected, the place was carried by storm, and the garrison put to the sword. The castle of Mallow was taken in 1645, by the Earl of Castlehaven, and was nearly reduced to ruins. It was suffered to remain in this dilapidated state many years ; the first attempt to restore it was made in 1666. In a letter dated 3d of April, 1666, written by Lord Orrery to the Duke of Ormond, from Charleville, his lordship takes notice, " that there was then but one bridge over the Blackwater, winch," he says, " is forty miles navigable for boats." This would lead one to suppose that the river was used for commercial purposes as far as the place occupied by Fermoy at present. " This bridge," continues Lord Orrery, " is at Mallow, where there is a, castle of good strength if it had a little reparation, and is one of the greatest passes and thoroughfares in this province, and if seized on by any enemy, would, in effect, divide the country into two parts." When this kingdom was threatened with an invasion from France, the castle was deemed of such importance, commanding the chief pass and only bridge on the Blackwater, that the grand jury of the county of Cork presented a sum for the necessary repairs, to put it in a state of defence ; but the judge reserved himself from fiating, until he spoke with Lord Orrery, the Lord President, and again deferred the affair till he spoke with the Lord Lieutenant, the law only allowing presentments for bridges, causeways, highways, &c.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 87

40. Marsh between Youghal and Waterford side reclamation proposal

    Youghal · town · Cork

    A vast marsh lies between Youghal's wooden bridge and the town. A proposal to reclaim it for building purposes was made to the Duke of Devonshire, but he declined unless he received the most valuable portion nearest the town, and the matter was dropped.

    Read the passage

    Our sketch shows the town snugly ensconced under a pretty wooded hill, and, from the low situation, appears quite springing from the sea. The long wooden bridge connecting it to the Waterford side, is higher up ; and between this and the town lies a vast marsh, which, if His Grace the Duke of Devonshire were to regard his own interest, he would most assuredly give every facility, nay, proffer encouragement to have taken in and reclaimed for building purposes. I understand a proposal was made to that effect, which His Grace declined acceding to, unless he was to have the portion nearest the town for his share ; and as this was likely to be that first reclaimed and most valuable, the proposers felt they would be worse off after all the expense necessarily incurred : so the matter drops. It is to be hoped some bonus may be offered by the Duke, as excellent sites for houses

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 12

41. Nashville and Ballymacquirk Bridge on the Blackwater

    Banteer · town · Cork

    Near Banteer Cross the river meets Ballymacquirk Bridge, close to Nashville, the seat of William Leader, with good mills on the north bank enriched by extensive plantations. Nearby seats include Minehill (J. Wallis) and the Glebe (Rev. Mr. Bevan).

    Read the passage

    Close to Bantyre Cross the river is met by Ballymaquirk Bridge, near which is Nashville, the seat of William Leader, Esq. There are very good mills at Nashville, on the north bank, which, for a considerable distance, is enriched by the extensive plantations on Mr. Leader's estate. The land along the river is not very productive ; but the tenants seem contented, and speak highly of the Leader family, who are the principal proprietors in this district. Other seats near are Minehill, J. Wallis, Esq., and the Glebe, the Rev. Mr. Bevan. The water is of moderate depth for a considerable distance. On the north bank is Dromagh, the estate of Nicholas Philpot Leader, Esq. There are extensive collieries here, which afford employment to a great number. Dromagh colliery has been worked more than a century, and the father of the present owner expended a large sum in improving the works connected with the colliery, to render the mine available : they are now meeting a very extensive demand. There are other collieries here, at Clonbanin, Dominagh, and Colclough, in full work ; and if the projected navigation from

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 105

42. Nohavaldaly church of St. Finian and vanished tower

    Nohaval · townland · Cork

    Nohavaldaly, on the borders of Cork and Kerry, contains the ruin of an old church of St. Finian, patron and founder of Innisfallen. The author searched for the round tower stump reported by Smith the county historian but could find no trace of it; a neighbouring castellet reported standing about fifty years prior may have been mistaken for the tower.

    Read the passage

    Nohaval, or, as it is pronounced, Nochovail, occupies an eminence above the river at the left or Cork side. It is evidently a favourite burial place. Within a stone wall enclosure stands a low ruin of an oblong form, the relic of the old church of St. Finian, the patron and founder of the monastic establishment of Innisfallen, — " sweet Innisfallen ! " at Killarney. All traces of the doors and windows have been destroyed, it cannot, therefore, be said to what age its construction may have belonged. Outside the cemetery, walls are traceable of another structure, which had been apparently a dwelling, and probably of the castellated kind ; but so little of it has survived the waste of time and injury, that this can only be merely conjectural. With the exception of this ruin, and that of the old church, there are no other vestiges of building here, consequently nothing of the turain, or tower, could we discover. The castellet was, according to a report in the neighbourhood, standing to a considerable height about fifty years ago, and, it strikes us, must have been the stump spoken of by Smith, who doubtless never saw it, but took his report from those badly qualified to inform him.

    For several miles of its easterly course, after leaving Nohaval, the river Black - water pursues its way through a plain and uninteresting country, the line of mountains extending from Killarney to Claragh, and Muskerry still fully in view. Previously to its junction with the Finaw (fair river), near Millstreet, it passes at the foot of the gentle acclivity on which stand the ruins of Drumsicane Castle, a structure once appertaining to the O'Keeffes, an ancient family, attainted at the Revolution. The building was standing entire at the commencement of the last century, but was soon after destroyed.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 109

43. Peg Gainy's pub at Ballinacarriga

    Ballynacarriga · townland · Cork

    In the tale of the enchanted horse, Larry and the creature visit Peg Gainy's public house at the cross turning in from Ballinacarriga to obtain a naggin of whisky and a pound of tobacco without paying.

    Read the passage

    " ' Very well, Sir,' sis I, ' but for the tinder marcy ov God take me asy ; ' so up we wint to Peg Gainy's public, that's just at the cross turnin in from Ballinacarriga. Troth, stiff enough I called for a naggin ov the best, an' drank it. ' Now,' sis I, ' I'll be afther troublin you for a pound of tobacco.'

    " ' No trouble in life, Sir,' sis she ; but shure an' sartain the very minit I got it in the heel ov my fist, I an' my gentleman were on our way to the castle, leaving poor Peg whistling for the change.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 47

44. Round Hill and the etymology of Lismore

    Lismore and Mocollop · parish · Cork · 636

    The name Lismore derives from Lis (fort) and mor (great), referring to an ancient fortification east of the town now called the Round Hill. The site was more anciently called Magh-sgiath (field of the shield) and also Dun-sginne, the latter possibly alluding to St Carthagh's flight there in 636.

    Read the passage

    The name is derived from Lis, a fort, and mor, great — in reference to a mount, or ancient fortification standing a little to the east of the town, now called the Round Hill. It was more anciently called Magh-sgiath (i. e. the field of the shield) ; also Dun-sginne. Dun signifies a fort seated on an eminence, and sginne, a flight ; which seems to allude to the flight hither of St. Carthagh, in 636, who was driven from Lestmeath, where he founded the Abbey of Ratheny.

    An ancient author f thus describes it : — " Lesmor is a famous and holy city, half of which is an asylum into which no woman durst enter ; but it is full of cells and holy monasteries, and religious men, in great numbers, abide there ; and thither holy men flock together from all parts of Ireland ; and not only from Ireland, but from England, and Britain, being desirous to remove from thence to Christ ; and the city is built on the banks of the river Abanmor — that is, the Great River — in the territory of the Nan Deci, or Desies." The city of Lismore acquired great renown as a literary resort. Morinus, in his life of the founder of the University of Lismore, writes, —

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 37

45. Salmon weirs between Youghal and Lismore

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    No fewer than forty-two salmon weirs existed between Youghal and Lismore. The weir under Lismore Castle was very productive, with the fishing rented from the Duke by Mr. Foley at £700 a year, making it one of the most valuable fisheries on the river.

    Read the passage

    There are numerous weirs on this part of the river — no fewer than forty-two salmon weirs between Youghal and Lismore ; one under the castle is very productive : the fishing is rented from the Duke by Mr. Foley, at 700/. a year. In

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    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 39

46. Thirteen-arch stone bridge at Fermoy built 1689

    Fermoy · townland · Cork · 1689

    A large stone bridge with thirteen arches was built over the Blackwater at Fermoy in 1689, at a cost of £7,500. This bridge made Fermoy a considerable pass during the Williamite War.

    Read the passage

    In 1591, a grant was made by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Richard Grenville, Knt., and his heirs, of this monastery, and the lands appurtenant, containing by estimate 550 acres, at the rent of 15/. 185. Ad. Irish money. These lands were afterwards assigned by the Lord Treasurer of England to Sir George Harvey, for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge was built over the river here, with thirteen arches, anno 1689, and cost 7500/.

    In the struggle to keep James II. on the throne, this place became the scene of a conflict. In January, 1691, the frish, by the arrival of Tyrconnel, Nugha, Rice, and others from France, having received fresh supplies of arms and other necessaries, were encouraged (being straitened in their quarters) to try their fortune by the enlargement of their frontiers. Their main design was upon Fermoy and Ballymore ; the first, because of its stone bridge on the Blackwater, was esteemed a very considerable pass. The fortifications were slight, and the garrison not numerous ; their strength consisted chiefly of two field pieces, which gave them more reputation than force : this place was attacked by Brigadier Carroll and 1500 of the enemy ; but the Danes, who had the guard of it, defended it very well, and Colonel Donop, with fifty of his horse an<J thirty militia, by the common stratagem of two trumpeters sounding a march, as if fresh recruits were advancing, frightened the Irish into a flight, and they were so briskly pursued to Careigoncady-ford, that they lost near eighty men in this action.f

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 56

47. Youghal privateers and naval tradition

    Youghal · town · Cork

    Over several generations, Youghal families maintained a spirit of naval adventure. During the wars of the first half of the eighteenth century, privateers were fitted out and manned from Youghal, their crews celebrated for desperate bravery that defied all odds.

    Read the passage

    When the first Earl of Cork purchased from Sir Walter Raleigh the grants he had obtained of the monastic and other lands forfeited in Elizabeth's reign, he adopted the policy of colonising the towns in the vicinity of the Blackwater with settlers from England, chiefly from Gloucestershire, Somersetshire, and Devonshire. Of these settlers, the greater part had adopted Puritan principles, which exposed them to ecclesiastical penalties at home ; they were in the great civil war the most decided enemies of the Stuarts, and it was the timely adhesion of Youghal to the parliamentary cause which relieved Cromwell from the difficulties in which he was placed by the obstinate defence of Clonmel. Like most of the Puritans, those who settled in Youghal were firm believers in witchcraft, and tradition preserves the memory of several unhappy persons burned at the stake during the presence of this delusion. Glanvil's curious collection contains the trial of one of the Youghal witches, Florence Newton ; and it is one of the most singular exhibitions of credulity and barbarity recorded in the melancholy annals of the witch-mania. Some of the peculiarities of puritanism are still to be found in the families descended from the original Puritans ; but the most palpable monument of such rigidity is the venerable old church, the interior of which when last repaired was stripped of its collegiate character, and assimilated as much as possible to the severe plainness of the conventicle. Many of the followers of Cromwell and of William III., attracted by similarity of sentiment, in the families of the previous colonists, settled in or near Youghal, which with Bandon was long regarded as the great stronghold of what was called the Protestant interest in the south of Ireland. Several of the early settlers had been companions of Raleigh in his expeditions against the Spaniards, and there are some faint traces of their having kept up their old connection with the buccaneers. During several generations the spirit of naval adventure was rife in their families, and during the wars in the first half of the last century several privateers were fitted out and manned from Youghal, the crews of which were celebrated for their desperate bravery, which set all odds at defiance. Even so late as the last French war, Youghal sailors were distinguished in the navy by their readiness to defy the perils of storm and battle.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 10

48. Mac Grath tomb in Lismore Cathedral, 1548

    Lismore · town · Waterford · 1548

    An ancient tomb in Lismore Cathedral inscribed to the Mac Grath family and dated 1548 is richly sculptured with figures of the apostles in bas-relief on the side stones and a compartmented upper stone. Time has nearly obliterated the design and inscription.

    Read the passage

    The Cathedral Church is close to the castle ; the approach is from the town, through an avenue with a fine row of trees. It is the only remaining ancient church of those formerly here (some say as many as twenty), and was dedicated to St. Carthagh. This sacred edifice was often in considerable danger. In 1 1 73, when Raymond le Gros and Strongbow wasted the Decies country, they extorted a large sum of money from the then bishop to prevent the cathedral from being burned. The great care bestowed did not always avail. It sustained considerable damage in Elizabeth's reign from Edmund Fitzgibbon, called the White Knight, so called most probably from the colour of his armour. It was restored in 1663, at the expense of the Earl of Cork ; and has been lately repaired, when a square tower, surmounted by a light and taper spire, was added. The entrance is at the extremity of the south transept, under a pure Norman arch. The windows of the choir are of stained glass, and the bishop's throne and prebends' stalls richly carved oak. There are many tasteful monuments to the deceased members of families in the neighbourhood — Musgrave, Chearnley, Lovett, and others. Among the more striking are the tablets to the memory of Archdeacon Ryan and Dean Scott. One ancient tomb, inscribed to the family of Mac Grath, dated 1548, is richly sculptured; on the side stones are figures of the apostles in bas-relief, the upper stone is divided into compartments ; time has nearly obliterated the design and inscription.

    Near the church are two small caves, and one in the grove near the castle.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 40

49. St Carthagh's flight to Lismore, 636

    Lismore and Mocollop · parish · Cork · 636

    St Carthagh was driven from Lestmeath—where he had founded the Abbey of Ratheny—and fled to Lismore in 636. The name Dun-sginne (fort of flight) is said to allude to this event.

    Read the passage

    The name is derived from Lis, a fort, and mor, great — in reference to a mount, or ancient fortification standing a little to the east of the town, now called the Round Hill. It was more anciently called Magh-sgiath (i. e. the field of the shield) ; also Dun-sginne. Dun signifies a fort seated on an eminence, and sginne, a flight ; which seems to allude to the flight hither of St. Carthagh, in 636, who was driven from Lestmeath, where he founded the Abbey of Ratheny.

    An ancient author f thus describes it : — " Lesmor is a famous and holy city, half of which is an asylum into which no woman durst enter ; but it is full of cells and holy monasteries, and religious men, in great numbers, abide there ; and thither holy men flock together from all parts of Ireland ; and not only from Ireland, but from England, and Britain, being desirous to remove from thence to Christ ; and the city is built on the banks of the river Abanmor — that is, the Great River — in the territory of the Nan Deci, or Desies." The city of Lismore acquired great renown as a literary resort. Morinus, in his life of the founder of the University of Lismore, writes, —

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 37

50. Ballyduff mansion fortified after the civil wars

    Ballyduff · townland · Waterford · 1641–1690

    In the confusion following the civil wars of 1641 and 1690, this part of the country was exposed to depredations by disbanded soldiery, necessitating the fortification of the Drew mansion at Ballyduff. The village itself is small and thinly inhabited but shows cleanliness and comfort in its cottages.

    Read the passage

    In the confusion which followed the civil wars of 1641 and 1690, this part of the country appears to have been exposed to the depredations of the disbanded soldiery of the defeated armies, and hence arose the necessity of fortifying this mansion ; in other respects this little place possesses no importance, for the village of Ballyduff is small, and thinly inhabited. There is, however, an appearance of cleanliness and comfort in the cottages which bespeaks the fostering care of a kind and intelligent landlord.

    There is a good depth of water from Ballyduff to Marston ; the banks on each side abound in varieties of wild herbs and flowers, affording pleasure to the botanist as well as to those who love the simple beauties of nature. Marston, the residence of R. Gumbleton, Esq., is built in the ornate cottage style, which harmonises well with the surrounding scenery. Here some shallows impede the navigation ; but this defect could easily be remedied by engineering science.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla

51. Ballyhooly Castle and its ruined chapel

    Ballyhooly · town · Cork

    Ballyhooly Castle stands commandingly on a lofty ledge of rocks with tall Norman towers casting broad shadows across the water. Near it are the ivy-clad remains of a chapel, likely the castle's place of worship, surrounded by humble gravestones.

    Read the passage

    Ballyhooly Castle forms a striking feature as we move up the river. It is commandingly situate on a lofty ledge of rocks, and the tall Norman towers fling their broad shadows across the water. Near it are the ivy-clad remains of a chapel, probably the place of worship belonging to the castle, for I could discover no trace of any such monastery in " Archdall's Monasticon." Around are humble gravestones, which,

    " With uncouth rhyme, and shapeless sculpture deck'd, Invoke the passing tribute of a sigh."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 76

52. Castlecor, Freeman seat with monastery ruins

    Castlecor · electoral division · Cork

    Castlecor, seat of Edward Deane Freeman, was built on the site of an ancient castle. Ruins of a fortified monastery are still traceable in the deer park. The Freemans held Castlecor for over 200 years and were connected by marriage to the Deanes of Dromore and noble houses including Lord Muskerry and Lord Lismore.

    Read the passage

    Further north is Castlecor, the seat of Edward Deane Freeman, Esq. The house is one of the best in the county, with suitable offices, and a finely -wooded demesne. Some of the old trees are superb. The Freemans have been in possession of Castlecor for a period exceeding 200 years. The mansion was built on the site of an ancient castle, some distance from the ruins of a monastery, yet traceable in the deer park. This monastery is considered to have been fortified. By intermarriage of William Freeman with Jane, daughter of Sir Matthew Deane, Bart., they became connected with the Deanes of Dromore. Sir Matthew was created a baronet in 1700, and his descendant is now Lord Muskerry. The

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    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 97

53. Conna castle of the Desmonds on the Bride

    Conna · town · Cork

    Close to the banks of the river Bride, spanned by a high narrow bridge, is Conna with its strong tower, a castle of the Desmonds. Near Knockmourne is Moidghialladh, where the Church of the Vow is pointed out, from which Moygeely is derived.

    Read the passage

    About three miles south, on the Cork road, is the town of Rathcormac. The handsome Elizabethan mansion of Lord Riversdale, and the exquisitely laid out ground of his demesne Lisnegar, are worthy a visit. On the south bank of the river Bride, crossed by a fine bridge, is Kilshanick, one of the princely seats of Edmund Roche, Esq., father of Edmund Burke Roche, Esq., M.P. for the county of Cork : it is a spacious mansion of noble proportions, said to have been built upon a plan of Inigo Jones : it formerly belonged to A. Devonsher, Esq. Near Watergrasshill, celebrated from the writings of the Rev. Francis Mahony, entitled the Prout Papers (Rev. Mr. Prout had been parish priest of Watergrasshill), is a good house and lawn, Mitchellsfort, seat of Brazier Mitchell, Esq. To the east of Rathcormac is Castle Lyons, a small town ; near this are extensive walls of Lord Barrymore's house, which was destroyed by an accidental fire : built in the Elizabethan style, they are mighty even in ruins. Kilcor, the elevated castle of Cornelius O'Brien, Esq., is seated on a hill south of the town ; and at some distance is Ballyvolane, the residence of Jasper Pyne, Esq. Close to the banks of the Bride, spanned by a high narrow bridge, is Conna, with its strong tower, a castle of the Desmonds ; and near Knockmourne is Moidghialladh, where is pointed out the " Church of the Vow," whence Moygeely is derived. The ruins here are very extensive. This was the chief seat of Fitzgerald, Earl of Desmond, "whose vast estates," Dr. Curry remarks, " was a strong inducement to the chief governor of Ireland to make or proclaim him a rebel, their prey being insured to them in either case by his forfeiture." The occasion of building the church is as follows : — Thomas, the great Earl of Desmond, had a favourite steward, who often took great liberties with his lord, and by his permission tyrannised over his tenants equally with himself. This steward, unknown to the Earl, invited, in his name, a large party of the chiefs of Munster with their retainers to spend a month in the castle. They

    :

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 58

54. Hunting meet at Fermoy along the Inches

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    Officers from the Fermoy garrison and local sportsmen gather by the river side near Fermoy for a fox hunt. The hounds draw the plantations along the Inches before finding their quarry.

    Read the passage

    " We, that is about twenty red-coated gentry, some officers of the Fermoy garrison, and sportsmen from the town, were clustered by the river side, while the hounds were drawing the plantations along the Inches. Suddenly the broad face of the rock re-echoed with the shrill cry of a young hound. We waited breathlessly for some more certain tidings : the hoarser note of an old dog soon put us in motion.

    * Hark to, Trueman ! Yoic ! yoic ! Have at him, my darlings ! ' Fresh voices swell the cry : ' Hark to, Rattler, Trueman, and Vengeance ! ' The animated strain rolls on. My thorough-bred hunter pricked up his ears, and pawed the ground impatiently. I moved gently in the direction the pack led, and louder yet the clamour grew, for every hound in the wood were united in one grand orchestra.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 73

55. Interior description of Mitchelstown Caves

    Mitchelstown Caves · cave s souterrain s · Tipperary

    Visitors enter through a narrow sloping passage and descend a fifteen-foot ladder into dull grey limestone before reaching the splendid lower middle cave. The upper middle cave surpasses it, approached through a passage varying in height and breadth, its horizontal section approximating a semi-ellipse of 180 by 80 feet as described by Dr. Apjohn.

    Read the passage

    " This is the ' lower middle cave ; ' but wonderful though it is, it is surpassed by the ' upper middle cave,' at which the visitor arrives through a passage varying in height from five to ten, and in breadth from seven to fourteen feet, and sixty feet in length. ' The horizontal section of this natural excavation,' says Dr. Apjohn, 'may, neglecting its irregularities, be considered as a semi-ellipse, the axes of which are respectively 180 and 80 feet, the major pointing directly

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 59

56. Legend of Heber and Eremon's war over the vale of Dromaneen

    Dromaneen · townland · Cork

    An ancient legend holds that the queen of Heber, already possessing the two fairest vales in Ireland, coveted the valley of Dromaneen, sparking the first war between the Scoto-Milesian brothers Heber and Eremon. The conflict was resolved at a pitched battle on the plain of Geishiol in Ossory, where Heber was slain.

    Read the passage

    " At a distance of between three and four miles west of Mallow," writes Mr. Windele, " stands on a steep crag above the river the castle of Drumaneen, which, in its feudal day, belonged to the chief of the race of O'Callaghan, a family deriving from a common ancestry with the princely house of McCarthy. The name of the site, Drumaneen, or more correctly, Drown Fineen, once belonged to an extended territory, which lay at each side of the Blackwater from its source to its termination. It indicates a tract identified in Irish history with an event placed many generations before the time of Kimbaoth, in that dreamy period which the old annalist, Tigernach, has characterised as ' incerta? The first war between the Scoto-Milesian brothers, Heber and Eremon, arose from the cupidity of the queen of the former prince. Already possessed of the two fairest vales in Ireland, she saw and coveted that of Drumaneen, certainly not inferior to any other in Ireland. Her unjust pretensions led to a war between the brothers, the issue of which was decided in a pitched battle on the plain of Geishiol, in Ossory, wherein Heber was slain, and the power of his house crushed for some subsequent generations."

    What Cromwell said of the Tipperary " Golden Vein," when its luxuriant beauty lay outstretched before him, might well be repeated of Drumaneen, that it is " surely a country worth fighting for." Its loveliness and fertility would almost justify the desire of the picturesque-loving queen, even though its indulgence should cost a civil war. We speak, of course, with that kind of moral sense which may be presumed to have been in the ascendant in those fine old times, when sufficed

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 95

57. Longueville estate and the Longfield family

    Longueville · townland · Cork · 1795–1811

    The Longfield family claimed descent from Longchamps, who came with William the Conqueror. Richard Longfield, MP for Cork city, was created Baron Longueville of Longueville in 1795 and advanced to viscount in 1800; the title became extinct in 1811.

    Read the passage

    claims descent from Longchamps, who accompanied William the Conqueror in his invasion of England. On the success of the expedition, he received grants of lands, and was summoned to parliament as tenant to the Crown in capite. The representative of this noble house adhered to the fortunes of the Stuarts, and, like most of the followers of that unfortunate race, suffered from his attachment to the unworthy James II. In 1795, Richard Longfield, member of parliament for the city of Cork, was created a peer by the title of Baron Longueville, of Longueville, and advanced to the dignity of viscount in 1800. He married Margaret White, related to the Earl of Bantry, by whom he left no issue, and the title became extinct in 1811.

    The view from the river is extensive and picturesque. Hills cultivated to the summit are backed by a high range of heath-clad mountains, while the banks on either side are wooded to the brink. From Dromore, seat of A. Newman, Esq., on the south side of the river, a fine view of the Blackwater is obtained.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 97

58. Newmarket House and Elizabethan ash avenue

    Newmarket · town · Cork · 1558–1603

    Newmarket House, the seat of R. R. Aldworth, lord of the manor, is a spacious mansion of cut limestone in a picturesque demesne. An avenue of ash trees is said to have been planted during the reign of Queen Elizabeth.

    Read the passage

    Newmarket House, the seat of R. R. Aldworth, Esq., lord of the manor, is a spacious mansion, of cut limestone, well situated in a finely planted and picturesque demesne. Some of the trees are very aged : an avenue of ash is said to have been planted in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.

    This town is celebrated for having been the birthplace of the Right Hon . John Philpot Curran, late Master of the Rolls in Ireland : the house is represented in the accompanying engraving.

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 103

59. Pilltown creek and alluvial valley to Whiting Bay

    near Whiting Bay · bay · Waterford

    The creek of Pilltown gives rise to a flat valley running to Whiting Bay, in places as low as sea level. Whiting Bay retains an Irish name meaning 'the mouth of the river,' supporting the theory that the Blackwater once discharged into the sea near Ardmore.

    Read the passage

    Opposite the town of Youghal there is a projecting spot of sand called the ferrypoint, which is traditionally said to have extended at one time half way across the river, and which undoubtedly has been within the memory of man much more extensive than it is at present, persons now alive remembering it to have been a large and profitable rabbit-warren. Higher up than this is the creek of Pilltown, from which a flat valley, in many places as low as the sea-level, runs to Whiting Bay, and this bay is still called by an Irish name, which signifies " the mouth of the river." The narrow valley running from Pilltown to Whiting Bay is incontestably of alluvial or lacustrine formation, and in the part of Whiting Bay immediately adjoining Ardmore, it is evident that the sea would now inundate a portion of the valley, but for a high bank of shingle which forms the strand. The positive testimony of an ancient author singularly confirms the theory that the Blackwater, or at least a branch of it, anciently discharged itself into the sea in the vicinity of Ardmore, to which Whiting Bay closely adjoins ; for Necham says —

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    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 11

60. Prospect from Lismore Castle

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    The view from the casemented projecting window of the tapestried chamber in Lismore Castle overlooks the Blackwater flowing several hundred feet beneath, gliding under a graceful bridge and watering a rich valley, with high mountains visible through lateral glens. Clumps of trees afford shelter to flocks and herds on the green banks.

    Read the passage

    I know nothing superior to the prospect enjoyed from the casemented projecting window of the tapestried chamber in Lismore Castle. It looks on the river, flowing several hundred feet beneath, gliding in its onward course under the graceful bridge and watering a rich and verdant valley. The hills do not contract the fair meadow inches which display the hue of the emerald in their green banks. Clumps of trees afford shelter and shade to flocks and herds. There are vistas presented to the sight, and high mountains peep from the lateral glens, through which the tributary streamlets from the hills pour into the Black water.

    Inglis says, " Nothing can exceed in richness and beauty the view from the bridge, when at evening the deep woods, and the grey castle, and the still river, are left in shade, while the sun, streaming up the valley, gilds all the soft slopes and knolls that lie opposite ; the bridge ; the castle, grey and massive, with its ruined and ivy -grown towers ; and the beautiful tapering spire of the church ; all combine to form a scene we gaze on with pleasure, and turn away from with regret."

    Internet Archive blackwaterinmuns00ofla, Chapter 39