Dublin and Wicklow

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Handel composed the Messiah for its Dublin premiere at Pishamble Street Music Hall

   Fishamble Street · street · Dublin · 1741–1742

   The Music Hall on Fishamble Street, opened in 1741, was where Handel, invited by the Duke of Devonshire, first performed a great portion of his Messiah on 13 April 1742, including the Hallelujah Chorus.

   Read the passage

   Some of the reminiscences of the old town are particularly interesting. Pishamble Street is now abandoned to slopmen and trunkmakers. The Deanery House, now a Ragged-school, still stands inside a small court-yard ; and a meanlooking building, now crumbling to ruin, was once the Music Hall, which was opened in 1741, and afterwards became the famous theatre. Handel was invited by the Duke of Devonshire, then Lord Lieutenant, to visit Dublin, and it was upon the occasion of this visit that he composed his Messiah. It was in Pishamble Street on the 13th of April, 1742, that a great portion of this splendid composition was first performed, including the "Hallelujah Chorus," and " Worthy is the Lamb."

   There is scarcely a street in the old part of the city that is not rich in historic lore. In Upper Merrion Street stands the house in which the Duke of Wellington first saw the light ; and in a narrow lane off Grafton Street (Johnson's Court) is the school in which that illustrious man received the early rudiments of education. The old desks and benches still exist. In Rutland Square is Charlemont House, the scene of many an important event in Irish politics: this is one of the few houses of the ancient Irish nobility still occupied by the noble owner. The ancient palace of the Archbishop of Dublin is now a police barrack. Moira House, on the Quay, where once the brilliancy and talent of Ireland were wont to congregate under the leadership of the noble owner, who might well be called the Mecsenas of his native land, is a Mendicity Institution. It was also in Johnson's Court that Moore's father resided; and many neglected and now decayed lanes and courts, as well as more fashionable streets, are rich in traditions of Wellington and Lord Mornington, Moore, Swift, Sheridan, Temple, Wolfe Tone, Grattan, Curran, Ussher, Plunkett, &c.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 25

   As the companion tells it

   Along here on this street, Dublin's old town holds one of its great stories. Fishamble Street has fallen on quieter times, given over now to slopmen and trunkmakers. The Deanery House still stands inside a small courtyard, though it serves as a Ragged School. A mean-looking building, crumbling to ruin, was once the Music Hall, opened in 1741, and afterwards became the famous theatre. Handel was invited by the Duke of Devonshire, then Lord Lieutenant, to visit Dublin, and it was upon this visit that he composed his Messiah. On 13 April 1742, it was on this street that a great portion of that splendid composition was first performed, including the "Hallelujah Chorus" and "Worthy is the Lamb." There is scarcely a street in the old part of the city that is not rich in historic lore. In Upper Merrion Street stands the house where the Duke of Wellington first saw the light. In Johnson's Court, a narrow lane off Grafton Street, is the school where Wellington received his early education. The old desks and benches still exist. In Rutland Square is Charlemont House, the scene of many an important event in Irish politics, one of the few houses of the ancient Irish nobility still occupied by the noble owner. The old palace of the Archbishop of Dublin is now a police barrack. Moira House on the Quay, where the brilliance and talent of Ireland once gathered under a noble owner called the Maecenas of his native land, is now a Mendicity Institution. It was also in Johnson's Court that Moore's father lived.

2. Battle of Clontarf ends Danish dominance

   Clontarf · parish · Dublin · 1014

   The decisive contest between the Danes and the native Irish, led by Brian Boru, was fought at Clontarf, a village near Dublin. Although the battle went long undecided, the Irish were eventually victorious, though the victory was saddened by the loss of the king and nearly all his leaders.

   Read the passage

   * The decisive contest with the Danes was fought at Clontarf, a village near Dublin, which skirts the harbour. The " strangers " were assisted by several of the native chieftains, at the head of whom was the king of Leinster. The battle was fought on Good Friday; and although it was for a long time doubtful, the Irish were at length conquerors ; but the victory was saddened by the loss of the good and brave monarch and nearly all their leaders.

   t The Danes were usually termed " Oastmen " or men from the east ; in Ireland, as in England and France they were called Northmen or Normans, according to their relative position. The portion of Dublin in which they settled was styled Oastmantown, now Oxmantown — nearly in the locality where the Royal Barracks are now situated.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 27

3. Hugh O'Donnell's escape from Dublin Castle in 1591

   Rathmullan · town · Donegal · 1587–1591

   Lord-justice Sir John Perrot plotted to capture Hugh O'Donnel from Donegal using a wine ship anchored near Rathmullan castle, and after O'Donnell was made drunk and captured, he was imprisoned in Dublin for over three years before escaping by rope down the drawbridge in 1591 and fleeing towards the Wicklow mountains.

   Read the passage

   * The records of this tower— in modern times the State Paper Office— would afford materials for one of the most singular and romantic histories ever published. It received its name, according to Dr. Walsh, not from the De Birminghams, who were lords justices in 1321 and 1348; but from Sir William Birmingham, who was imprisoned there in 1331, with his son Walter: " the former was taken out from thence and executed, the latter was pardoned as to life because he was in holy orders." . It was the ancient keep, or ballium, of the fortress ; and was for a very long period the great state prison, in which were confined the resolute or obstinate Milesian chiefs, and the rebellious Anglo-Norman lords. Strong and well guarded as it was, however, its inmates contrived occasionally to escape from its durance. Some of the escapes which, the historians have recorded are remarkable and interesting ; and none more so than that of Hugh O'Donnel, in 1591. From his fastnesses in Donegal, he had intimated designs of maintaining his independence; in consequence of which the lord-justice, Sir John Perrot, laid a plot to obtain possession of his person. Accordingly, in the year 1587, a ship was fitted out, and stowed with Spanish wine, and directed to sail to one of the harbours of Donegal* The vessel put into Lough Swilly, and cast anchor off the castle of Dundonald, near Rathmillan.' The captain, disguised as a Spaniard, proposed to traffic with the people of the fortress, who bought and drank until they became intoxicated. The people of the adjoining district did the same, and all the surrounding septs of O'Donnel, Mc Swiney, and O'Dogherty, entered into dealings with the crafty wine-merchant. O'Donnel, among the rest, sent for some of the wine, and was informed that there was no more to sell, but if the young prince would come on board

   28

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 28

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up along Rathmullan. In 1587, a ship loaded with Spanish wine sailed into Lough Swilly and cast anchor off the castle of Dundonald, near this town. The captain came disguised as a Spaniard and proposed to trade. The people of the fortress bought and drank until they became intoxicated, and the surrounding septs of O'Donnel, Mc Swiney, and O'Dogherty entered into dealings with the wine merchant. Hugh O'Donnel sent for some of the wine and was told there was no more to sell, but if the young prince would come on board, he could have what he wanted. He was seized when he did. The whole thing was a plot by the lord-justice, Sir John Perrot, who wanted possession of his person, because from his fastnesses in Donegal O'Donnel had made known his intention to maintain his independence. O'Donnel was taken to Dublin and locked in the great state prison of the castle, the ancient keep of the fortress. It was named from Sir William Birmingham, imprisoned there in 1331 with his son Walter. The father was taken out and executed. The son was pardoned as to life because he was in holy orders. It was where the resolute Milesian chiefs and the rebellious Anglo-Norman lords were confined. O'Donnel stayed there for over three years. In 1591, he escaped, lowering himself by rope down the drawbridge and fleeing towards the Wicklow mountains.

4. Anglo-Normans capture Dublin and slay the Danish king

   Dublin · city · Dublin · 1170

   Dermod McMorogh persuaded the Anglo-Normans to attack Dublin, which they took on 21 September 1170. The fleeing Danish king was later captured and beheaded by Miles de Cogan, and his army was slain before reaching their ships.

   Read the passage

   J The Anglo-Normans having established themselves in Wexford, their ally Dermod McMorogh persuaded them to attack Dublin, of which they possessed themselves on the twenty-first of September, 1170. The Irish king was stimulated upon this occasion more by a craving for vengeance than a desire to add to his possessions, for the citizens of Dublin had murdered his father ; and, as a further insult, had buried the body in a dunghill with a dog. The Danish king escaped for the time ; but returning soon afterwards, he was taken and slain by the Irish deputy (appointed by Strongbow) Miles de Cogan. It is related, that when the vanquished chieftain was brought before the fierce Norman and his officers, "he looked round him with ferocious pride, and bade his conquerors reserve their exultation for a day of final triumph that might never come." The threat cost him his life ; he was immediately beheaded. His army were intercepted before they could reach their ships, and nearly the whole of them were slain. Mac Torcall was

   With this event terminated the dominion of the sea-kings in Ireland — the Oastmen were never afterwards enabled to regain their Irish possessions ; and those who continued in the country "became quiet subjects to the English, and one people with them." In 1173, Henry II. having received the submissions of the Irish chieftains and their kins; — the last king of Ireland,

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 27

   As the companion tells it

   You are coming through Dublin now, the city the Anglo-Normans seized on the 21st of September, 1170. Dermod McMorogh had persuaded them to attack from their base in Wexford. His hunger was for vengeance more than land. The citizens of Dublin had murdered his father and, as a further insult, had buried the body in a dunghill with a dog. The Danish king escaped at first, but when he returned he was taken by Miles de Cogan, the deputy Strongbow had appointed. Brought before the Norman and his officers, the defeated chieftain looked round with ferocious pride. He told his conquerors to reserve their exultation for a day of final triumph that might never come. The words cost him his life. He was beheaded on the spot. His army was intercepted before they could reach their ships, and nearly all of them were slain. With this, the dominion of the sea-kings in Ireland came to an end. The Ostmen never regained their Irish possessions, and those who stayed in the country became quiet subjects to the English, one people with them. In 1173, Henry the Second received the submissions of the Irish chieftains and their kin.

5. Overcrowding and typhus in the decayed Liberties of Dublin

   near The Liberties · street · Dublin

   Once-grand houses of the Liberties, formerly homes of the wealthy, became crowded tenements for the poor as the district decayed. In one house 108 persons were found lying on the bare floor, with seven of twelve in one room suffering from typhus fever.

   Read the passage

   The present state of this once flourishing region forms a strong contrast to its former ; but it still retains many evidences of what it has been. In passing along its desolate streets, large houses of costly structure everywhere present themselves. Lofty facades adorned with architraves, and mouldings to windows, and door-cases of sculptured stone or marble ; grand staircases with carved and gilded balustrades ; panelled doors opening into spacious suits of corniced and stuccoed apartments — all attest the opulence of its former inhabitants. They are now the abode only of the most miserable. As they were deserted by the rich, they were filled by the poor ; and as they decayed, they became the resort of the more abject, who could find no other shelter. So crowded were they at one time, that 108 persons were found in one house lying on the bare floor, and in one room seven out of twelve were labouring under typhus fever.

   It sometimes happens that a sudden stagnation of employment among the poor manufacturers still lingering there, causes a pressure of great temporary distress, and then they descend in masses to beg for relief in the lower and more prosperous parts of the city. They resemble an irruption of some strange and foreign horde. A certain wildness of aspect, with pallid faces and squalid

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 42

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about The Liberties, you are coming into a district that was once flourishing. Large houses of costly structure still stand along its streets, with lofty facades, door-cases of sculptured stone or marble, grand staircases with carved and gilded balustrades, and panelled doors opening into spacious corniced and stuccoed apartments. All of it attests the opulence of the people who once lived here. They are now the abode only of the most miserable. As the rich deserted them, the poor filled them. As they decayed, they became the resort of the more abject, who could find no other shelter. So crowded were they at one time that 108 persons were found in one house lying on the bare floor, and in one room seven out of twelve were labouring under typhus fever. When employment stalls among the poor manufacturers still lingering there, great temporary distress follows. They descend in masses to beg for relief in the lower, more prosperous parts of the city. They resemble, in the words of the source, "an irruption of some strange and foreign horde," with pallid faces and squalid aspect.

6. Rebel General Holt's Guerrilla Band near Roundwood, 1798

   Roundwood · town · Wicklow · 1798–1826

   During the 1798 rebellion, the rebel general Holt, a Protestant farmer living near Roundwood, gathered and led an armed and disciplined guerrilla force that troubled government troops for months after the rebellion had ended elsewhere. He eventually surrendered to Lord Powerscourt and was transported, later receiving a pardon and returning to Ireland before his death in 1826.

   Read the passage

   * Among these mountains, during the year 1798, the rebel general, Holt, collected and retained a force well armed, and with some discipline, which proved exceedingly troublesome to the troops quartered in the neighbourhood, and very injurious to the resident gentry. He was a respectable farmer and a Protestant, who resided in the immediate vicinity of Roundwood. He contrived to keep his guerillas together for several months after "the troubles" had terminated elsewhere, the peculiar nature of the country being favourable to his plans, the people being universally friendly to him, and every hill and valley furnishing some place of secrecy and security — at least for a time. A price was set upon his head; his every motion was tracked by spies; yet he managed to escape, surrendering in the end to Lord Powerscourt, and bargaining with the government for a sentence of transportation for life His history is singular and striking ; he was a man of courage and enterprise, and of sagacity and prudence very rare in those days. He executed some very brilliant movements; and on several occasions destroyed parties of the King's troops. In the year 1S13, having received a free pardon from tbe governor of New South Wales, he returned to his native country, for some time kept a public-house in Dublin, and died in May 1826, aged 70 years.

   t The village is twenty-three miles from Dublin. There are two good inns at Roundwood — both of them being convenient and comfortable.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 89

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Roundwood, you are in the country where the rebel general Holt kept his guerrilla band together long after the 1798 rebellion had ended elsewhere. He was a respectable Protestant farmer who lived in the immediate vicinity of this town, and he collected a force well armed and with some discipline, which proved exceedingly troublesome to the troops quartered in the neighbourhood. A price was set on his head and spies tracked his every motion, but the hills and valleys gave him secrecy, and the people were universally friendly to him. He executed some brilliant movements and on several occasions destroyed parties of the King's troops. He eventually surrendered to Lord Powerscourt and bargained with the government for a sentence of transportation for life. Having received a free pardon from the governor of New South Wales, he returned to his native country, kept a public house in Dublin for a time, and died in 1826 at the age of 70.

7. Sir Walter Raleigh plants the first potatoes at Youghal

   Youghal · town · Cork · 1586–1588

   The passage records the tradition that the first potatoes grown in the British Empire were planted at Youghal, probably in 1586, by Sir Walter Raleigh, who was closely connected with the town and served as its Mayor in 1588.

   Read the passage

   There is little doubt, that the first potatoes grown in the British Empire were planted at Youghal — probably in 1586 — by Sir Walter Ealeigh, who was closely connected with +hat town ; of which he was Mayor in 1588 * It is stated by Dr. Smith (History of Cork), upon the authority of a tradition not unlikely to be well founded, that " the person who planted them, imagining that the apple which grows on the stalk was the part to be used, gathered them ; but not liking their taste, neglected their roots, till the ground being dug afterwards to sow some other grain, the potatoes were discovered therein, and, to the great surprise of the planter, vastly increased. Prom these few," adds the Doctor, '*' this country was furnished with seed.5' Por a long period, however, the potato was cultivated in gardens as a rarity, and did not become general food. Ben Jonson, in his play of "Every Man out of his Humour," refers to them as a luxury: "larks, sparrows, and potato pies" — and during the reign of James I. they were sold at 2s. a pound. Palstaff, in the " Merry Wives of Windsor," is made to say, "Let the sky rain potatoes, and hail kissing comfits;" — the "kissing comfits" being made principally of potatoes; and in Troilus and Cressida the poet speaks of "Luxury with her potato finger." In many other of the older dramatists allusions to the potato may be found.

   It is uncertain when the potato became an article of general food in Ireland ; and it is more thau probable that, as in England, they had long been considered "conserves, toothsome and daintie," before they were in common use. It is unnecessary to state that, for above a century and a half, the potato

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 71

8. Founding of the City of Glendalough by St. Kevin

   Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow · 500–619

   The 'City of Glendalough' owes its origin to St. Kevin, who founded an abbey there in the early sixth century and died on 3 June AD 619, the anniversary still marked by a 'pattern' (patron) day. The settlement grew into a great monastic city with schools, sanctuary and hospital functions.

   Read the passage

   The " City of Glendalough ," a name which signifies " the glen of the two lakes," owes its origin to St. Kevin, by whom the abbey was founded early in the sixth century, and where he is believed to have died on the 3d of June, a.d. 619, on the anniversary of which the " pattern" (patron) is still held.

   Here, in this solitude, the saint laid the foundation of his monastic establishment ; it grew rapidly— became a crowded city, a school for learning, a college for religion, a receptacle for holy men, a sanctuary for the oppressed, an asylum for the poor, a hospital for the sick*— and here he lived to superintend

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 92

9. Literary Associations of Glasnevin: Addison, Steele, Parnell and Swift

   Glasnevin · townland · Dublin

   The Glasnevin area holds rich literary history: the garden ground once belonged to poet Tickell, with a yew avenue planted under Addison's direction where he reputedly composed 'Colin and Lucy'. Nearby Hampstead was Sir Richard Steele's residence, Finglas glebe-house was home to poet Parnell, and Delville was where Swift was said to have secretly printed his satires.

   Read the passage

   * Glasnevin is a village rich in historic and classic associations; the ground now converted into a botanic garden, was formerly the property of Tickell, the poet, from whose representatives it was purchased. One of the original walks — a straight avenue of yew trees — was planted under the direction of his friend Addison ; and tradition states, that underneath its branches he composed the exquisite ballad of "Colin and Lucy." At a short distance is Hampstead, once the residence of Sir Richard Steele ; and a little further was the glebe-house of Finglas, in which lived the poet Parnell. More immediately in the neighbourhood is Delville— a demesne laid out by Delany, the friend of Swift : and here, it is said, the witty Dean not only composed, but actually printed some of the most biting of his satires — which no printer of Dublin would have dared to put to press. The belief that they were produced in this calm retreat received, according to Dr. Walsh, confirmation strong about the beginning of the present century, when " in removing the lumber of an out -office, preparatory to its being pulled down, a printing-press was found concealed among it."

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 49

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Glasnevin, rich in literary associations. The ground now used as a botanic garden once belonged to the poet Tickell, and a yew tree avenue there was planted under his friend Addison's direction — tradition says Addison composed 'Colin and Lucy' beneath those branches. Nearby was Hampstead, Sir Richard Steele's residence, and a little further on the Finglas glebe-house where the poet Parnell lived. Close by is Delville, a demesne laid out by Delany, Swift's friend, where the Dean is said to have composed and printed some of his most biting satires — works no Dublin printer would have dared put to press. The story gained confirmation about the beginning of the century, when, according to Dr. Walsh, a printing-press was found concealed among the lumber of an out-office about to be pulled down.

10. Rise and suppression of the woollen trade in the Liberties

    near The Liberties · street · Dublin · 1688–1792

    After 1688 the woollen manufacture flourished in the Liberties on land belonging to the Earls of Meath, who bred sheep prized under Charles I; English manufacturers settled and built the Combe, Pimlico and Spitalfields streets. The trade's rapid rise provoked English jealousy, leading William III's Parliament to impose a ruinous duty that destroyed the industry and impoverished the district.

    Read the passage

    places in London, and a square called Weavers', from the new craft introduced. In a short time it became the residence of all that was opulent and respectable in the city. A patent was granted to act plays, and a theatre was built in Rainsford Street. The Earl of Meath's mansion in Thomas Street was deemed by Sir W. Petty to be the most magnificent palace next to the Castle of Dublin, and the Duke of Leinster proposed to build the splendid family residence of Leinster House within its precincts. This sudden prosperity was of short duration. The jealousy of England was excited by the rapid progress of the manufacture, and a petition was presented to William III. by the Lords, to prohibit and suppress it. In this the subservient Irish Parliament concurred, and an exorbitant duty was laid on, amounting to a prohibition. The ruin of the trade immediately followed, and with it that of the district. The wealthy employers left the country, and all the population that remained were reduced to great distress. Towards the close of the last century, however, the woollen trade had a temporary revival ; in 1792, there were at work upwards of 400 looms, which employed 5,000 persons ; but it drooped rapidly, and now the manufacture is confined to a few hands. It is, we believe, more prosperous in some of the provinces than in Dublin ; in several towns of the South, there are manufactories in full and profitable work.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about The Liberties, after 1688, a woollen trade flourished on land belonging to the Earls of Meath, who had bred sheep prized under Charles I, and English manufacturers settled and built streets called the Combe, Pimlico, and Spitalfields, and a square called Weavers' from the new craft. The district became the residence of all that was opulent and respectable in the city, with a theatre in Rainsford Street, and the Earl of Meath's mansion in Thomas Street deemed by Sir William Petty the most magnificent palace next to Dublin Castle, and the Duke of Leinster proposed to build Leinster House within its precincts. This prosperity was short, for English jealousy was excited by the rapid progress of the manufacture, and the Lords petitioned William III to suppress it, and the subservient Irish Parliament concurred, laying on an exorbitant duty amounting to a prohibition. The ruin of the trade immediately followed, and with it the ruin of the district, as wealthy employers left the country and the remaining population was reduced to great distress. Towards the close of the century the trade had a temporary revival, and in 1792 there were upwards of 400 looms at work employing 5,000 persons, but it drooped rapidly and the manufacture is now confined to a few hands, though it is more prosperous in several towns of the South.

11. The Buried Cross of Finglas Hidden from Cromwell's Soldiers

    Finglas · parish · Dublin

    A ponderous stone cross at Finglas was buried nearly two centuries ago to conceal it from Cromwell's soldiers. Rev. Dr. Walsh, curate of the parish, later found an old man whose grandfather had shown the burial spot, and excavated the cross with labourers, restoring it to its present position.

    Read the passage

    Among other remnants of antiquity is a ponderous stone cross; it was buried in order to conceal it from Cromwell's soldiers, and remained under

    * Among the successors of St. Patrick have heen many eminent saints. St. Canice, to whom the parish church is dedicated, and whose name is engraved on the ancient communion service plate, was followed hy others, whose bones repose under the chancel of the church ; and since the time of the Reformation the benefice has been filled by several distinguished men. The learned Archbishop Usher was incumbent of Finglas, and separated the vicarial from the rectorial tithes, because he thought he could not conscientiously receive the whole. Since then, the rectorial:

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 51

12. The line of guides at Glendalough: Darby Gallaher, Joe Irwin, George Wynder

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    The tradition of guiding at Glendalough passed from Darby Gallaher, who died aged 107 leaving his knowledge to Joe Irwin, to Joe Irwin, and then to George Wynder, each inheriting the role and the local legends.

    Read the passage

    t The mantle of Joe Irwin — very celebrated in his day — has fallen upon the shoulders of George Wynder. Joe, in his turn, had received it from Darby Gallaher, who was guide before him, beyond man's memory, and died "laving all his knowledge to Joe, when he, the said Darby, was 107 years ould and better." Joe's great recommendation — which he never failed to urge — was, that he was " the man that was down in the book." In this respect also (as no doubt many visitors will find) the guide of to-day imitates the guide of yesterday.

    12S

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 93

13. Bianconi's First Car Service Launched

    Clonmel · town · Tipperary · 1815

    Mr. Bianconi, a native of Milan, ran his first horse-drawn public car service between Clonmel and Cahir, beginning a transport revolution in Ireland. The venture began discouragingly, with Bianconi sometimes going whole weeks without a passenger, before eventually succeeding.

    Read the passage

    + Mr. Bianconi, a native of Milan ran his first car— from Clonmel to Cahir— on the 5th of July, 1815. The experiment was at the commencement very discouraging: he was frequently for whole weeks without a passenger. But his energy and perseverance ultimately triumphed, and he has succeeded in obtaining a large fortune, while conferring incalculable benefit on the community ; having preserved an irreproachable character, and gained the respect of all classes.

    G

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 62

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Clonmel now. On the 5th of July, 1815, a native of Milan named Mr. Bianconi ran his first horse-drawn car from here to Cahir. The start was discouraging. He would go whole weeks without a single passenger. But his perseverance paid off, and he built a large fortune while, as the book says, conferring incalculable benefit on the community.

14. King O'Toole and St. Kevin's goose legend

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Legend recounts how St. Kevin gained land for his churches from the pagan King O'Toole by making the king's old goose young again, in exchange for as much of the valley as the goose would fly over.

    Read the passage

    one : how " tlie saint managed to get from the king a grant of the land upon which he built his churches. The king was ould and wake in himself, and took a mighty liking to a goose, a live goose ; and in coorse o' time the goose was like the master, ould and wake. So O'Toole sent for his holiness ; and his holiness went to see what would the Pagan— for King O'Toole was a hathen — want wid him. ' God save ye,' says the saint. ' God save ye kindly,' says the king. ' A better answer than I expected,' says the saint. ' Will ye make my goose young ? ' says the king. 'What'll ye gi' me ? ' says the saint. * What'll ye ax ? ' says the king. ' All I'll ax will be as much of the valley as he'll fly over,' says the saint. ' Done,' says the king. So wid that Saint Kevin stoops down, takes up the goose, and flings him up, and away he goes over the lake and all round the glin ; which in coorse was the saint's hereditary property from that day out." How " the saint got rid o' the last of the sarpints : Ye see, yer honours, he was the ould sarpint that was 'cute enough to bother St. Patrick, when he druv out of Ireland the whole of his seed, breed, and generation. My gentleman walks off to Loch-na-Peche ; and soon after St. Kevin comes to make his bed and build his churches ; and the sarpint couldn't forget his ould tricks, having a dale o' spite agin the clargy. And the saint was, in coorse, intirely bothered, when, as fast as he ris the tower, down it came agin ; so he set his dog Lupus to watch, and the dog brought him word that his innemy was curled up in the sinter of the loch, all day ; but when his reverence went to bed, mee blackguard comes out, and does the world and all o' mischief. ' Och ! what'll I do ! ' says the saint ; ' is it to be nonplushed by a thief like this, that I'm after sleeping in a hole,' says he, c and giving up the best o' good living,' says he, ' to say nothing of the ladies,' says he. Well, yer honours, the saint was onlyasoggarth (young priest) in thim times; and, in coorse, his prayers hadn't the strength they had afterwards ; and all he could get by them was, that if he'd walk to the top of Kamaderry before the dew was off the grass, he'd see something. Now Kamaderry was a grate wood in them days, and it wasn't asy travelling. But the saint wasn't to be daunted ; so he axes a lark to wake him (for this was before he made 'em quit the place), and he puts on his new ponticalibeys, and away wid him up the hill. Well, when he gets to the top, what would he hear but the sarpint snoring ! and the saint was mighty unasy, till Lupus wint up to him and ' Whisper, yer rev'rence,' says the dog ; and the baste told him a sacret, and slips something into his

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 98

15. Tabinet and poplin weaving concentrated in the Liberties

    near The Liberties · street · Dublin

    The artisans who made Irish tabinets and poplins famous throughout the world resided almost entirely in the Liberties. The manufacture, exclusive to Dublin, was introduced by French Huguenot refugees after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and employed six to seven hundred weavers, warpers, winders and dyers.

    Read the passage

    In the Liberties, almost entirely reside the artisans who have made the Irish tabinets and poplins famous throughout the world, for their supremacy has survived all attempts at rivalry ; and the beautiful fabrics are everywhere esteemed and admired. The manufacture, which is exclusively confined to Dublin, was introduced into Ireland by French refugees who settled there after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. There are, as nearly as we could ascertain, between six hundred and seven hundred persons employed ; but the estimate includes weavers, warpers, winders, and dyers. They are principally heads of families, and earn from ten shillings to twenty-five shillings a-week (the higher wages being obtained by the weavers employed in producing brocaded or figured poplins, and who are, necessarily, the most skilful and ingenious workmen). There are not more than two hundred looms at work in the city and neighbourhood of Dublin : and, as we have intimated, there is not one in any other part of Ireland. The average produce of each loom is four yards per day (of the plain tabinet); but each loom employs three persons. The trade, and the profits derived from it, are consequently limited; yet it is. unfortunately, almost the only national manufacture, if we except that of linen.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about The Liberties, the artisans who made Irish tabinets and poplins lived and worked. These fabrics were famous throughout the world, and their supremacy survived all attempts at rivalry. The manufacture was exclusive to Dublin, introduced by French refugees who settled there after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Between 600 and 700 people were employed as weavers, warpers, winders, and dyers. They were principally heads of families, earning from 10 shillings to 25 shillings a week. The higher wages went to the weavers producing brocaded or figured poplins, the most skilful workmen. There were not more than 200 looms at work in the city and neighbourhood of Dublin, and not one in any other part of Ireland. Each loom produced an average of four yards a day of plain tabinet, and each loom employed three persons. The trade and its profits were limited. Yet it was, unfortunately, almost the only national manufacture, if you except linen.

16. Birthplace of the Duke of Wellington on Upper Merrion Street

    near Merrion Street · street · Dublin

    The house in which the Duke of Wellington was born still stands in Upper Merrion Street, and nearby in Johnson's Court off Grafton Street is the school where he received his early education, with the old desks and benches still preserved.

    Read the passage

    There is scarcely a street in the old part of the city that is not rich in historic lore. In Upper Merrion Street stands the house in which the Duke of Wellington first saw the light ; and in a narrow lane off Grafton Street (Johnson's Court) is the school in which that illustrious man received the early rudiments of education. The old desks and benches still exist. In Rutland Square is Charlemont House, the scene of many an important event in Irish politics: this is one of the few houses of the ancient Irish nobility still occupied by the noble owner. The ancient palace of the Archbishop of Dublin is now a police barrack. Moira House, on the Quay, where once the brilliancy and talent of Ireland were wont to congregate under the leadership of the noble owner, who might well be called the Mecsenas of his native land, is a Mendicity Institution. It was also in Johnson's Court that Moore's father resided; and many neglected and now decayed lanes and courts, as well as more fashionable streets, are rich in traditions of Wellington and Lord Mornington, Moore, Swift, Sheridan, Temple, Wolfe Tone, Grattan, Curran, Ussher, Plunkett, &c.

    It will be observed that of all these edifices there are none, except the College, much above a century old.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Merrion Street, the house in which the Duke of Wellington first saw the light still stands. Arthur Wellesley, the man who would defeat Napoleon at Waterloo, was born here in this part of old Dublin. The street is rich in historic lore, as are many of the old streets of the city. Not far away, down a narrow lane off Grafton Street called Johnson's Court, is the school where Wellington received the early rudiments of his education. The old desks and benches from that school still exist, preserved from his time there. Johnson's Court has its own further associations. It was there that Moore's father resided, the father of the poet Thomas Moore. Many neglected and decayed lanes and courts, as well as more fashionable streets throughout this old quarter of the city, carry traditions connected not only with Wellington and Lord Mornington but with Moore, Swift, Sheridan, Temple, Wolfe Tone, Grattan, Curran, Ussher, and Plunkett. It is worth noting that of all the edifices spoken of here, there are none, except the College, much above a century old.

17. Glendalough as a den of thieves and murder

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Long before the See was surrendered, the city had declined into desolation, becoming according to Ware 'waste and desolate, a den and nest for thieves and robbers,' with more murders committed in that valley than anywhere else in Ireland due to its desert solitude.

    Read the passage

    acts, and sharers in his merits ; and, with him, to encounter every severity of climate and condition. " This influence extended even to Britain, and induced St. Mochuorog to convey himself hither, who fixed his residence in a cell on the east side of Glendalough, where a city soon sprung up, and a seminary was founded, from whence were sent forth many saints and exemplary men, whose sanctity and learning diffused around the Western world that universal light of letters and religion, which, in the earlier ages, shone so resplendent throughout this remote and at that time tranquil isle, and were almost exclusively confined to it." The See of Glendalough was united with that of Dublin in the reign of King John ; but the mandate of the sovereign was disputed by the O'Tooles, in whose territory it stood ; and although the territories were estranged, they continued to fill the See for a long period afterwards — the last of the nominal prelates, Friar Dennis White, surrendering the possession in 1497. Long before that period, b owe ver, the city had vastly declined in importance; having become— we quote from Ware — " waste and desolate, a den and nest for thieves and robbers ; so that more murders are committed in that valley than in any other place in Ireland, occasioned by the vast desert solitude thereof." " From what can now be discovered of the ancient city," writes Dr. Ledwich, " by its walls above, and foundations below the surface of the earth, it probably extended from the Rhefeart church to the Ivy church, on both sides of the river. The only street appearing, is the road leading from the market place into the county of Kildare; it is in good preservation, being paved with stones placed edgewise, and ten feet in breadth." These stones have now all vanished — at least we looked for them in vain ; except adjacent to the entrance. * Upon this subject we quote Dr. Ledwich. " The number seven was mystical and sacred,

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 92

18. Lord Strafford's Destruction of the Shillelagh Woods

    Shillelagh · town · Wicklow

    The great wood of Shillelagh was largely cut down by Lord Strafford, who as Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland wrested it from the O'Byrnes because they could produce no written titles; some oak was used to roof St. Patrick's Cathedral and Westminster Hall.

    Read the passage

    * Tinahinch lies in a hollow, on the margin of the river; it is classic ground; for here one of Ireland's true patriots — a man who loved his country — composed, and, it is said, continuallyrecited, the eloquent speeches that have made his name immortal. The name of another great statesman is intimately associated with the County of Wicklow — the famous and unfortunate Lord Strafford. The great wood of Shilelagh, which covered the southern portion of the county, was much cut down hy that nohieman, who wrested it from the original proprietors, the O'Byrnes — hecause, "they were unable to produce any written titles to their lands" — when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. Some of the oak he gave to roof St. Patrick's Cathedral. Westminster Hall was, it is said, roofed from the same source. Fynes Moryson alludes to " a commonly received opinion that the Irish wood transported for building is free of spiders and their webs." Near Tinehely are the ruins of a castle — the " cosha," so often alluded to by Lord Strafford in his letters; which the peasantry call "Black Thorn's building." The extensive forests of Shilelagh have dwindled to a few small plantations of oak. Mr. Hayes of Avondale, who published, in 1794, " A Practical Treatise on Planting," states : " It is generally understood that a sale was made of some of the finest timber of Shillelah, which remained in Charles the Second's time, into Holland, for the use of the Stadthouse, and other buildings constructed on piles driven close together, to the number of several thousand." After 1693, however, the woods must have been considerably destroyed, for in that year iron forges and furnaces were introduced into Wicklow, by a company who had the right to cut whatever suited their purpose during the term of their contract, which lasted twenty years. From a paper in the hand-writing of Thomas, Marquis of Rockingham, it appears that, in 1731, there were standing in that part of Shilelagh called the Deer Park 2,150 oak-trees: of these, in 1737, there remained 1,540. In 1780, 38 only of the old reserves were in existence. Their size may be estimated from this fact; the last which Mr. Hayes remembers, when felled, " produced, at three shillings per foot, £27 Is. 8d." In his time there remained one entire tree — " about ten feet round at five feet from the ground, straight as a pine for sixty feet ; and about six feet round at that height." He speaks, also, of a short trunk, which measured twenty-one feet round. The Earl Fitzwilliam, the descendant of the Earl of Strafford, now owns the district of Shilelagh, and has, besides, an immense property in the county of Wicklow.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 84

19. Notable Graves at Glasnevin Cemetery

    Glasnevin · townland · Dublin

    Glasnevin Cemetery contains the monument of celebrated advocate Curran, an unfinished and neglected tomb for Ruthven, and the resting place of Daniel O'Connell, who at the time of writing had no monument marking his grave.

    Read the passage

    Adjacent to Glasnevin is a public cemetery. There was no subject in Ireland which contributed more to keep alive the asperity of parties than that of burials. By an anomaly peculiar to the Irish character, the angry passions which agitate men in life were not relinquished in death ; every funeral was a signal to renew them, and the embers of discord were raked up and fomented even among the ashes of the dead. An obsolete fragment of the penal statutes continued unrepealed till a late date. It prohibited Roman Catholic priests from officiating in Protestant churchyards, even for a member of their own flock. To put an end to this state of things, Lord Plunket, then attorney-general, brought in a bill by which a Protestant incumbent might give permission to a Boman Catholic priest to perform the service on his "asking permission in writing." But this did not satisfy the angry parties. The one would not ask the boon in the prescribed form, and the other would not compromise their " privilege " if the minutest formula were omitted. The result was the formation of a cemetery on the south side of the city. The success of the attempt induced the promoters to establish another, on a larger scale, contiguous to the Botanic Gardens. Curran, the celebrated advocate, has a monument here ; and a tomb was here erected for "Rut liven, a " liberal " member for Dublin : but it was little more than commenced, and the fragments of it lie neglected and trampled upon. It is in this cemetery, also, that the mortal remains of O'Connell repose, without any monument to mark the last resting place of one now almost forgotten, but once the idol of his countrymen. A third cemetery has been established at Harold's Cross, exclusively Protestant.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies a public cemetery, and its story begins with a bitter quarrel over where the dead could be laid to rest. In Ireland, the passage says, no subject kept alive the asperity of parties more than that of burials. The angry passions that agitated men in life were not relinquished in death. Every funeral was a signal to renew them, and the embers of discord were raked up and fomented even among the ashes of the dead. An obsolete fragment of the penal statutes remained unrepealed until a late date. It prohibited Roman Catholic priests from officiating in Protestant churchyards, even for a member of their own flock. Lord Plunket, then attorney-general, brought in a bill by which a Protestant incumbent might give permission to a Catholic priest to perform the service, on his asking permission in writing. But this did not satisfy the angry parties. The one would not ask the boon in the prescribed form, and the other would not compromise their privilege if the minutest formula were omitted. The result was the formation of a cemetery on the south side of the city. Its success induced the promoters to establish another, on a larger scale, contiguous to the Botanic Gardens. Here Curran, the celebrated advocate, has a monument. A tomb was erected for Ruthven, a liberal member for Dublin, but it was little more than commenced, and the fragments of it lie neglected and trampled upon. It is here also that the mortal remains of O'Connell repose, without any monument to mark the last resting place of one now almost forgotten, but once the idol of his countrymen.

20. Smock Alley theatre collapse during a performance

    Smock Alley · street · Dublin

    A theatre erected in Smock Alley (then Orange Street) fell in during a performance and several persons were killed; it was subsequently repaired, and Farquhar and Peg Woffington later made their first appearances there.

    Read the passage

    * Anecdotes of the Dublin Theatres might form a curious and interesting history. The earliest was built in 1635, under the patronage of Lord Strafford, by John Ogilby, the translator of Homer, for whom Shirley wrote his play of " The Royal Master," originally performed in Dublin. The next was erected in Smock Alley, then Orange Street ; but it fell in during representation, and several persons were killed. It was subsequently repaired, and Farquhar (a native of Londonderry) made his first appearance there; so also did " Peg Woffinsrton." Early in the last century there were no fewer than five theatres in the city. The Crow Street Theatre was opened in the year 1758. "The Theatre" has always been a favourite place for giving exit to ebullitions of wit — and sometimes an arena for the exhibition of sharper weapons. At every performance indeed there is sure to be some characteristic display of Irish humour.

    STATUTE OF KILKENNY." 57

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 44

    As the companion tells it

    Along here in Smock Alley, once called Orange Street, a theatre was erected that met disaster during a performance. It fell in while a play was being staged, and several people were killed. The building was subsequently repaired and went on to notable things. Farquhar, a native of Londonderry, made his first appearance on its stage. So did Peg Woffington. The earliest Dublin theatre had been built in 1635, under the patronage of Lord Strafford, by John Ogilby, the translator of Homer. For Ogilby, Shirley wrote his play The Royal Master, originally performed in Dublin. The Smock Alley theatre came after that first one. In time the city would hold no fewer than five theatres. The Crow Street Theatre opened in 1758. The theatre has always been a place for wit, and sometimes for sharper weapons. At every performance, the material says, there is sure to be some characteristic display of Irish humour.

21. The guides of Glendalough and rural poverty

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Crowds of guides of all ages surrounded visitors' cars at Glendalough, vociferously competing to be hired, reflecting the poverty of the area where neither work nor solicitation could procure the commonest necessaries of life, yet the people remained honest and kind to one another.

    Read the passage

    * At Glendalough guides of all degrees start from beneath the bushes, and from amid the crags — we had almost written, from out the lake — and "they will do anything in the wide world to serve and obleege yer honours," except leave you to yourselves. — " Is it let the likes of you alone, plase yer honour?" said a razor-faced youth. " Be the dads ! we've better manners than that anyhow, to lave the quality alone by themselves in such a lonesome place ; and sure the lady won't forget the daAvshy dancing sixpence among us, just as a compliment for our company ! " If you get angry with them, their civility increases, and the end of it is, that you submit with the air of a martyr, while Kathleen and the selected guide, seeing that you are really in earnest and wish to be alone, keep the mob at a distance, who then follow in the wake. Our only astonishment, on such occasions, is that such crowds are so well-behaved. Luxury and wealth are continually before them, while neither their work nor their solicitations can procure them the commonest necessaries of life. And yet how honest they are ! They carry your cloaks, umbrellas, books, and you never lose anything: they are not unkind to each other either, and will frequently bless the trifle you bestow on others. — " Well, God bless you, we want it bad enough ourselves, but she wanted it as bad ; God help the widow and the fatherless ! "

    t The mantle of Joe Irwin — very celebrated in his day — has fallen upon the shoulders of George Wynder. Joe, in his turn, had received it from Darby Gallaher, who was guide before him, beyond man's memory, and died "laving all his knowledge to Joe, when he, the said Darby, was 107 years ould and better." Joe's great recommendation — which he never failed to urge — was, that he was " the man that was down in the book." In this respect also (as no doubt many visitors will find) the guide of to-day imitates the guide of yesterday.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 93

22. The Round Tower of Clondalkin survives a powder-mill explosion

    near Clondalkin · town · Dublin

    The round tower at Clondalkin, about ninety feet high and fifteen feet in diameter, was encased with mason-work about sixty years earlier to protect it from decay. Shortly afterward, nearby powder-mills exploded violently, yet the tower withstood the shock even as massive stones were hurled several fields away.

    Read the passage

    South-west of the city, about four miles, is the village of Clondalkin, with its round tower, in a perfect state of preservation. Its height is about ninety feet, and it measures fifteen feet in diameter ; its base was, however, about sixty years ago, encased with strong mason- work, in order to protect it from the assaults of time; and, strangely enough, a few years after it was judiciously guarded, a catastrophe occurred that would otherwise have levelled it with the earth. Extensive powder-mills in the neighbourhood blew up ; yet the tower withstood the shock, although (to quote the newspapers of the day), "the earth seemed to shake from the very centre, and ponderous masses of

    74 KILLINEY HILL.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Clondalkin, west of Dublin, where the round tower still stands. It is about 90 feet high and 15 feet across, and some 60 years ago its base was encased in strong masonry to protect it from decay. A few years after that work was done, powder-mills in the neighbourhood blew up violently. The tower withstood the shock, even though, as the newspapers of the day reported, the earth seemed to shake from the very centre and ponderous masses of stone were flung several fields away.

23. Sectarian Conflict Over Burials Leads to New Cemetery

    Glasnevin · townland · Dublin

    An obsolete penal statute prohibiting Roman Catholic priests from officiating in Protestant churchyards caused ongoing sectarian conflict over burials in Ireland. Despite Lord Plunket's reform bill allowing written permission, disputes continued, leading to the establishment of new cemeteries including one at Glasnevin.

    Read the passage

    Adjacent to Glasnevin is a public cemetery. There was no subject in Ireland which contributed more to keep alive the asperity of parties than that of burials. By an anomaly peculiar to the Irish character, the angry passions which agitate men in life were not relinquished in death ; every funeral was a signal to renew them, and the embers of discord were raked up and fomented even among the ashes of the dead. An obsolete fragment of the penal statutes continued unrepealed till a late date. It prohibited Roman Catholic priests from officiating in Protestant churchyards, even for a member of their own flock. To put an end to this state of things, Lord Plunket, then attorney-general, brought in a bill by which a Protestant incumbent might give permission to a Boman Catholic priest to perform the service on his "asking permission in writing." But this did not satisfy the angry parties. The one would not ask the boon in the prescribed form, and the other would not compromise their " privilege " if the minutest formula were omitted. The result was the formation of a cemetery on the south side of the city. The success of the attempt induced the promoters to establish another, on a larger scale, contiguous to the Botanic Gardens. Curran, the celebrated advocate, has a monument here ; and a tomb was here erected for "Rut liven, a " liberal " member for Dublin : but it was little more than commenced, and the fragments of it lie neglected and trampled upon. It is in this cemetery, also, that the mortal remains of O'Connell repose, without any monument to mark the last resting place of one now almost forgotten, but once the idol of his countrymen. A third cemetery has been established at Harold's Cross, exclusively Protestant.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Glasnevin, there is a public cemetery. In Ireland there was no subject that kept alive the bitterness of parties more than that of burials. The angry passions that agitate men in life were not given up in death. Every funeral was a signal to renew them, and the embers of discord were raked up and fomented even among the ashes of the dead. An obsolete fragment of the penal statutes remained unrepealed until a late date. It prohibited Roman Catholic priests from officiating in Protestant churchyards, even for a member of their own flock. Lord Plunket, then attorney-general, brought in a bill to put an end to this. A Protestant incumbent might give permission to a Catholic priest to perform the service on his asking permission in writing. But this did not satisfy the angry parties. One side would not ask the boon in the prescribed form, and the other would not compromise their privilege if the minutest formula were omitted. The result was the formation of a cemetery on the south side of the city. The success of that attempt induced the promoters to establish another, on a larger scale, contiguous to the Botanic Gardens. Curran, the celebrated advocate, has a monument here. A tomb was erected for one described as a liberal member for Dublin, but it was little more than commenced, and the fragments of it lie neglected and trampled upon. It is in this cemetery also that the remains of O'Connell repose, without any monument to mark the last resting place of one once the idol of his countrymen. A third cemetery was established at Harold's Cross, exclusively Protestant.

24. Discovery of the Wicklow gold mines in 1796

    Croghan Mountain · townland · Wexford · 1796

    Gold was not found in quantity until autumn 1796, when a man crossing a brook found a piece weighing about half an ounce. News spread and peasants soon gathered gold from streams throughout the district, earning thousands of pounds.

    Read the passage

    It does not appear that gold was found in any quantity until the autumn of 1796 ; when " a man crossing a brook found a piece in the stream weighing about half an ounce." The circumstance was noised abroad, and almost immediately every river, stream, and rivulet, for miles round the spot, was

    * That gold must have been obtained in considerable quantities by the ancient Irish is a fact beyond controversy. The spade of the peasant is continually delving up some precious relic of old times— crowns, corslets, bridles, chains, rings, torques, fibulae, bracelets ; and there is scarcely a private collection of antiquities in the kingdom that does not contain several specimens. Some of them are of considerable weight; Sir William Eetham refers to one that weighed 36 oz., and Mr. Petrie to another that weighed 27 oz. 9 dr.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 105

25. Donnybrook Fair's Decline from Former Glory

    Donnybrook · parish · Dublin

    Donnybrook Fair, once famous in story and song, continues annually with tents, itinerant performers, beggars, and dancing, though it has fallen from its former notorious state. The fair was named for a mountain stream, the Dodder, and traditionally lasted eight days in August.

    Read the passage

    before, fortunately for the inhabitants of Dublin, it had "fallen from its high estate."* Although the Irishman is no longer there "in his glory," tents are still annually " pitched " upon the sodden sward, where they have been erected for centuries ; itinerant " play-actors " continue to gather there once a-year ; beggars yet make it a place of rendezvous ; lads and lasses assemble even now to dance under roofs of canvass ; and the din of harsh music from the " shows," mingled with the almost equally discordant squeakings of a score or two of bagpipes, still keep alive the memory of

    " Donnvbrook capers, that bother'd the vapours, And drove away care,"

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    We are passing through Donnybrook, the parish that gave its name to a fair once renowned across Ireland. The fair ran for eight days every August and took its name from the nearby mountain stream, the Dodder. It has, as the old book puts it, "fallen from its high estate," though tents are still pitched each year on ground where they have stood for centuries. Itinerant play-actors still gather, beggars still make it a rendezvous, and lads and lasses still dance under canvas roofs. The music of the shows and the squealing of bagpipes keep alive the memory of "Donnybrook capers, that bothered the vapours, and drove away care."

26. The Decline of Finglas May Fair and its Crowned Queen Tradition

    Finglas · parish · Dublin

    Finglas once held a May fair celebrated with great pomp, featuring a crowned queen and courtiers in gorgeous apparel attended by crowds from the city. The fair degenerated into dissipation and profligacy, was discountenanced, and the last queen died with no successor, though a semblance of the fair continued.

    Read the passage

    Among the customs of the village is a May fair, formerly celebrated with great pomp. A queen was crowned, and a court appointed to support her dignity, dressed in gorgeous apparel, and great crowds were in attendance from the city for several days to do her homage. But the scene of dissipation and profligacy into which it degenerated caused it to be utterly discountenanced. The last unfortunate queen died, not long ago, and she has had no successor ; although the semblance of the fair is still kept up.

    The village was formerly the abode of opulence and fashion, and supported two sedan-chairs to convey the company to its evening parties. But the mansions of the fashionable are now deserted and in ruins.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 51

27. The Fifteen Acres as a duelling ground

    Phoenix Park · electoral division · Dublin

    A flat, treeless portion of Phoenix Park called 'the fifteen acres' was historically the favourite place where gentlemen fought duels for 'satisfaction'. It is also used for military reviews of infantry and cavalry.

    Read the passage

    public promenades of the kingdom. Dr. Walsh, indeed, who had visited nearly every continental country, did not hesitate to say that "viewing all the particulars which should distinguish a place set apart for public recreation, the Phoenix Park, on the whole, would not suffer on comparison with any other in Europe." The demesne connected with the viceregal lodge, contains about 200 acres of land, Not far from it, is the chief secretary's lodge — a handsome building with nearly 70 acres attached. Close to it also, is the Under-secretary's lodge. A portion of the park called "the fifteen acres," is quite flat and free from trees. This was in old times the favourite place where gentlemen used to obtain "satisfaction." Prequent reviews are held here, of both infantry and cavalry. Nearly at the entrance, from the city, is a huge heap of stones, dignified by the title of " The Wellington Testimonial," * and on the Kildare side is an erection equally unmeaning — a tall Corinthian column, surmounted by a Phoenix f . The Zoological Society have their gardens within the park, a portion of it having been allotted to them in 1830, by his Grace the Duke of Northumberland, then Lord Lieutenant.

    The western side of Dublin will, indeed, afford materials for an entire day's

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Phoenix Park, you're travelling through ground that was once the great duelling ground of Dublin. There's a flat, treeless portion of the park called the fifteen acres, and in old times this was the favourite place where gentlemen used to obtain what the source calls satisfaction. They came here to fight their duels on open ground, nothing to block a shot or give cover. Frequent reviews of both infantry and cavalry were held on the same ground as well. Dr. Walsh, who had visited nearly every continental country, did not hesitate to say that viewing all the particulars which should distinguish a place set apart for public recreation, the Phoenix Park on the whole would not suffer on comparison with any other in Europe. The demesne connected with the viceregal lodge contains about 200 acres, and the chief secretary's lodge has nearly 70 acres attached. The Zoological Society have their gardens within the park, a portion having been allotted to them in 1830 by the Duke of Northumberland, then Lord Lieutenant. Near the entrance from the city stands a huge heap of stones called the Wellington Testimonial, and on the Kildare side a tall Corinthian column surmounted by a phoenix.

28. The Mare's Cross and the horse-thief struck dead

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Legend tells that a vagabond from Connaught stole St. Kevin's mare and foal; the saint overtook and struck him dead with a look, then raised a cross at the spot bearing the hoof-marks of the mare and foal as a warning to marauders.

    Read the passage

    day." (And here, good reader, is a copy of it, to put the fact beyond dispute.) How " one day in spring, before the blossoms were on the trees, a young man, grievously afflicted with the falling sickness, fancied that an apple would cure him ; and the dickons an apple-tree, at all at all, was about the place ; but what mattered that to the saint ! he ordhered a score of fine yellow pippins to grow upon a willow ; and the boy gathered, and ate, and was cured." * How " the saint was one day going up Derrybawn, and he meets a woman that carried five loaves in her apron. ' What have ye there, good woman ? ' says the saint. ' I have five stones,' says she. ' If they are stones,' says he, 'I pray that they may be bread; and if they are bread,' says lie, ' I pray that they may be stones ! ' So, with that the woman lets 'em fall ; and sure enough stones they were, and are to this day."f How " a vagabone from Connaught stole the saint's mare and her fole, and the saint overtuck him and shtruck him dead upon the spot, wid a look he gav him ; and immediately he ris a cross in the place as a warning to all marrauders ; and

    * A version of this story is quoted by Dr. Ledwich, from " an Icelandic MS. ; " which adds, that "the tree seemed to rejoice in this gift of God, and bears every year a fruit like an apple, which from that time have been called St. Kevin's apples, and are carried over all Ireland, that those labouring under any disease may eat them; and it is notorious, from various relations, that they are the most wholesome medicine against all disorders to which mankind are liable : and it must be observed, that it is not so much for the sweetness of their flavour, as their efficacy in medicine, for which they are esteemed, and for which they are sought."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

29. The Military Road built after the 1798 rebellion

    Military Road · street · Dublin · 1798–1800

    One of Wicklow's principal roads, called the Military Road, was constructed soon after the 1798 rebellion, ostensibly to allow troop movement into disturbed districts but really to open communications and promote civilisation and improvement.

    Read the passage

    One of the principal roads through the mountainous districts of Wicklow, is termed " the military road." It was formed soon after the rebellion of 1798, the ostensible object being to facilitate the march of troops into the disturbed parts of the county; but the real purpose was to open communications through it, and so to promote civilisation and forward practical improvements. There are few benefactors so truly useful as the road-makers. Before this road was made, the hills and valleys of the interior were almost as unapproachable to the stranger as islands without boats. Tour barracks were subsequently built, at considerable distances apart, on the new line ; the sites chosen were Glencree, Laragh, Glenmalure, and Aughavanagh. They have been sold by the Government, and been converted occasionally into inns, farm-houses, or sporting lodges. They are usually beheld from very far distances — the design of the builders being, naturally, to combine as much command of the adjacent country as was possible, with a facility of marching in cases of sudden calls. They stand, therefore, in the midst of broad plains, but plains which are at considerable elevations above the valleys.

    By the Enniskerry road — if we proceed by that — the county is entered at " the Scalp," a chasm in the mountain which separates it from the county of Dublin. The mountain appears to have been divided by some sudden shock of nature. The sides are not " precipitous," although the ascent is difficult, in

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    Along here runs one of the principal roads through the mountainous districts of Wicklow, called the Military Road. It was built soon after the rebellion of 1798. The ostensible object was to facilitate the march of troops into the disturbed parts of the county. But the real purpose was to open communications through the country and so to promote civilisation and forward practical improvements. Before this road was made, the hills and valleys of the interior were almost as unapproachable to the stranger as islands without boats. Four barracks were subsequently built on the new line, at considerable distances apart. The sites chosen were Glencree, Laragh, Glenmalure, and Aughavanagh. They have been sold by the Government and converted occasionally into inns, farm-houses, or sporting lodges. The barracks are usually beheld from very far distances. The design of the builders was to combine as much command of the adjacent country as was possible, with a facility of marching in cases of sudden calls. They stand in the midst of broad plains, but plains which are at considerable elevations above the valleys.

30. Founding of the Royal College of St. Patrick, Maynooth

    Maynooth · town · Kildare · 1795

    The Royal College of St. Patrick was founded in 1795 to allow Roman Catholic clergy to be educated at home rather than in dangerous foreign universities during the Continental war. The Duke of Leinster granted 54 acres at Maynooth for the site at an annual rent of £72.

    Read the passage

    The College was founded in the year 1795. Previously, youths intended for the Roman Catholic Church were compelled to enter foreign universities, and to graduate there — having received the rudiments of learning, how and where they could, in their own country* Towards the close of the eighteenth century, however, the war with the Continent in which Great Britain was engaged, rendered the transmission of students dangerous as well as difficult ; and, the more liberal spirit of the age favouring the project, application was made to the Irish Parliament, by several leading members of the Roman Catholic Church, for leave to establish a college, under charter, for their education at home. Permission was granted, and, with it, a vote of money to aid in providing suitable premises ; the act for its incorporation receiving the royal assent on the 5th of June, 1795. The site was not fortunately chosen ;

    * A short time prior to the French revolution (according to the Rev. Dr. Walsh, ' History of Dublin '), the number of Irish Roman Catholics, masters and students, in the several Continental colleges, were, of the former twenty-seven, and of the latter four hundred and seventy-eight. In France, there were — in Paris (" College des Lombards," and " Communaute, rue Cheval Vert,") one- hundred and eighty scholars; at Nantes eighty; at Bordeaux forty; at Douay thirty ; at Toulouse ten ; and at Lille eight. At Louvain there were forty ; at Antwerp thirty ; at Salamanca thirty-two; at Lisbon twelve; and at Rome sixteen.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Maynooth in Kildare, the road passes near the Royal College of St. Patrick, founded in 1795. Before that, young men bound for the Roman Catholic priesthood had to go to foreign universities to graduate, picking up whatever early schooling they could at home. Toward the close of the eighteenth century, the war Britain was fighting on the Continent made sending students abroad both dangerous and difficult. Several leading members of the Roman Catholic Church applied to the Irish Parliament for leave to establish a college under charter, for education at home. Permission was granted, with a vote of money to help provide suitable premises, and the act for its incorporation received the royal assent on the 5th of June, 1795. The Duke of Leinster granted 54 acres for the site, at an annual rent of 72 pounds. The source remarks that the site was not fortunately chosen. Before the French Revolution, there had been 27 masters and 478 Irish Roman Catholic students scattered across Continental colleges, from Paris and Nantes to Salamanca and Rome.

31. Legend of Saint Kevin's Abandoned Round Tower at Lough Tay

    near Luggala Lake · lake or lakes · Wicklow

    Tradition holds that Saint Kevin had begun laying the foundation of his Round Tower at Lough Tay in Luggelaw, but abandoned the site when Kathleen discovered his retreat there and followed him, prompting him to move on to Glendalough.

    Read the passage

    * Let no one visit Luggelaw without striving to make the acquaintance of " Charley Carr," the guide whose cottage is at the entrance to the domain. Charley is, of course, jealous for the honour and glory of Luggelaw ; and very envious of the superior attractions of Glendalough— which he abuses with right good will, affirming that it is unnatural not to love Nature better than ould stones and mortar; and at times he cannot conceal his anger with the holy saint — Saint Kevin— for not having carried out his original intention to build his churches around Lough Tay; tradition says, indeed, and Charley Carr supports the opinion, that the saint had actually laid the foundation of his Round Tower here— when Kathleen discovered his retreat, followed him, and her fair face was a " notice to quit."

    122 TOGHER, OR ROUNDWOOD.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 89

32. Gold mining discontinued in 1798 due to disturbances

    Croghan Mountain · townland · Wexford · 1798–1800

    Gold-gathering activity at the Wicklow mines, which had already declined to about £3,500 in value, was discontinued in 1798 because of the disturbed state of the county, a reference to the 1798 rebellion. It was partially resumed in 1800 but then abandoned.

    Read the passage

    amounting to little more than £3,500 ; in 1798 they were discontinued, in consequence of the disturbed state of the county; and although partially resumed in 1800, the result was so unsatisfactory, that the attempt at further discoveries was relinquished, and the mine was abandoned.

    Since this abandonment — a period of more than fifty years — the peasantry have still, occasionally, found morsels of the precious metal. At first, the pursuit was resumed with exceeding avidity, but the appetite grew less and less strong as the chances of discoveries diminished ; and although now and then a group might have been noticed raking the debris which the streams had brought from the mountains — or, more frequently, a solitary wanderer detected scraping the edges of the current, and peering with longing eyes into the mud and gravel of the river — the people generally had returned to the more profitable labour of drawing riches from the earth by the spade and plough. About the year 1840, however, a company, formed in London, took a lease of the district, and worked the mines under the superintendence of a practical miner from Cornwall ; but some miles distant from the place where the original Gold Mines were worked. They were still conducted upon a small and poor scale with variable success ; scarcely, indeed, a remove from the rough process of the peasantry, making no attempt to trace the gold to its source, but contenting themselves with obtaining as much as they could from the clay that borders the stream. Yet the scene was one of exceeding interest; of which the accompanying sketch will convey some idea.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 106

33. St. Kevin banishes the larks from Glendalough

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Legend holds that St. Kevin banished the larks from Glendalough not because they disturbed his prayers, but because workmen building his churches complained the larks woke them too early; ever since, no lark flies above the holy waters.

    Read the passage

    feet on the other ! " * (And so it does, for here is a copy of it.) How " the saint banished the larks ; not, as the foolish imagine, because they disturbed his orisons, but because the workmen who built his churches ' struck,5 complaining that the larks woke them too airly; so says the saint, 'Do yer duty for this day,' says he, 'and they shall trouble you no more;' and ever since no lark floats above the holy waters."

    Of other " haros " besides Saint Kevin, our guide had a store of tales. Of Fin Mac Cool's Cut — a singular gap in the mountain — he told us that "Pin one day met a countryman, and axed what news of the battle. ' Bad,' says he; 'we're bet into smithereens,' ' Och ! murder,' says Fin, 'why wasn't I there ! I'll show ye what I'd have done ; ' so he makes a blow with his soord, and cut a piece out of the hill. We call it the jiaunt's cut ; himself and another jiaunt used to shake hands across the lake." Of course, the " laagends " of King O'Toole are many and various ; we have space but for

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 98

34. The Wellington Testimonial and the Phoenix Column

    Phoenix Park · electoral division · Dublin · 1745–1800

    The Phoenix Park contains the Wellington Testimonial, a huge granite obelisk costing over £20,000, raised by subscription, and a Corinthian column surmounted by a Phoenix, erected in 1745 by the Earl of Chesterfield. The name 'Phoenix' is explained as deriving from the Irish 'Fionnuisge' (clear water), referring to a chalybeate spring in the park.

    Read the passage

    t The column was erected in 1745, by the then Lord Lieutenant, Philip Dormer Stanhope, Earl of Chesterfield. It has contributed to the popular error, which derives the title of the Park from the bird of fable. Its origin, however, is far more natural. According to Dr. Walsh, "In the Irish vernacular Fionnuisge, pronounced Finnish, signifies clear or fair water, and, articulated in the brief English manner, exactly resembles the word Phoenix. At length the park became known, even at an early period, by no other appellative." The spring or well so called, still exists. It is situated in a glen, beside the lower lake, near the grand entrance to the Viceregal Lodge, and has been much frequented from time immemorial for the supposed salubrity of its waters. It is a strong chalybeate. It remained, however, in a rude and exposed state till the year 1800, when, in consequence of some supposed cures it had effected, it immediately acquired renewed celebrity,

    70

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Phoenix Park, you may see a Corinthian column put up in 1745 by Philip Dormer Stanhope, the Earl of Chesterfield, then Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. People often think the park's name comes from the mythical phoenix bird perched on that column, but Dr. Walsh said the real origin is the Irish word Fionnuisge, pronounced like Finnish, meaning clear or fair water. Spoken quickly in English it sounds just like phoenix. The name comes from a strong chalybeate spring still flowing in a glen beside the lower lake, near the grand entrance to the Viceregal Lodge. It had been frequented from time immemorial for the supposed healthfulness of its waters. The spring stayed in a rude and exposed state until 1800, when, after some supposed cures, it gained renewed celebrity. The spring so called still exists.

35. Vice and Dissipation at Dublin Fairs

    Dublin · city · Dublin

    Every fair in Ireland had its share of bad conduct, but Dublin's surpassed them all for dissipation and vice, leaving many of the lower classes to endure want or punishment for months afterward. These evils were eventually checked by improved policing and rising temperance and education.

    Read the passage

    with culprits, and the streets with degraded women. Every fair in Ireland was, indeed, bad enough ; but that of Dublin surpassed them all for dissipation and vice ; a large proportion of the lower classes, for many months after the saturnalia, had to endure the penalties of want or the punishment of crime. To the disgrace of the country these evils were tolerated for centuries ; at length they were to some extent checked by a more efficient police ; and the spread of temperance and education and the improvement in the manners and morals of the people, everywhere observable, have entirely removed them.

    The Botanic Garden is situated on the north side of Dublin, at Glasnevin, about two miles from the centre of the city. A more admirable site could not have been selected ; a clear stream — the little river Tolka — runs through a miniature valley, to which the ground gradually slopes ; the tall and finely grown trees are sheltered from the north and east winds by adjacent hills; and the neighbourhood has long been celebrated for its salubrity, and its mild temperature. The garden contains about twenty-eight acres, and is, we believe, the largest in the kingdom. It originated in the year 1790, when Dr. Wade presented a petition to the Irish Parliament, by the hands of Toler, afterwards Lord Norbury, the result of which was an annual grant for its establishment and support. It has ever since been an honour and a credit to the city; having been, at the outset, most judiciously and tastefully laid out ; and its several curators having been men of judgment and practical knowledge. A more delightful, interesting, or instructive promenade is not to be found in Europe*: on two days of each week it is opened to the public; but to the studious it is accessible at all times by an order easy to be obtained. Dr. Walsh thus wrote of the garden in 1818 : — " Nothing can exceed the command

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Dublin, the city carries an old reputation tied to its fairs. Every fair in Ireland was bad enough, but Dublin's surpassed them all for dissipation and vice. The streets filled with culprits and degraded women. For many months after the saturnalia, a large proportion of the lower classes had to endure the penalties of want or the punishment of crime. To the disgrace of the country, these evils were tolerated for centuries. At length they were to some extent checked by a more efficient police. The spread of temperance and education, and the improvement in the manners and morals of the people, everywhere observable, have entirely removed them. On the north side of Dublin, at Glasnevin, about two miles from the centre of the city, stands the Botanic Garden. A more admirable site could not have been selected. A clear stream, the little river Tolka, runs through a miniature valley, to which the ground gradually slopes. The tall and finely grown trees are sheltered from the north and east winds by adjacent hills. The neighbourhood has long been celebrated for its salubrity and its mild temperature. The garden contains about 28 acres and is the largest in the kingdom. It originated in 1790, when Dr. Wade presented a petition to the Irish Parliament, by the hands of Toler, afterwards Lord Norbury. The result was an annual grant for its establishment and support. It has ever since been an honour and a credit to the city, having been most judiciously and tastefully laid out at the outset, and its several curators having been men of judgment and practical knowledge. A more delightful, interesting, or instructive promenade is not to be found in Europe. On two days of each week it is opened to the public, but to the studious it is accessible at all times by an order easy to be obtained. Dr. Walsh wrote of the garden in 1818 that nothing can exceed the command.

36. Deforestation of the Glendalough Valley Recorded by Hayes (1794)

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow · 1770–1794

    Mr. Hayes, in his 1794 Treatise on Planting, described witnessing the felling of nearly two hundred acres of beautiful oak woodland on the See lands of Glendalough three times within twenty-four years, sold for a fraction of their sustainable value.

    Read the passage

    * Mr. Hayes, in his "Treatise on Planting," (1794,) draws a melancholy picture of the folly and cupidity of those who have bared this romantic district. " I am sorry to state that I have been eye-witness to the fall of nearly two hundred acres of beautiful and well-growing oak, in a romantic valley, on the See lands of Glendallogh, three times within the space of twenty-four years. The produce of each sale, to the several archbishops, never exceeded 100/.; and as I am informed, it amounted once only to 501., or five shillings per acre, for a coppice, which, had it been preserved for the same number of years, though not containing a single reserve of a former growth, would have produced 30/. per acre, or 6,000/. in place of 50/."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 91

37. Earl of Meath's mansion on Thomas Street called a palace

    Thomas Street · street · Dublin

    The Earl of Meath's mansion in Thomas Street was deemed by Sir W. Petty to be the most magnificent palace next to Dublin Castle, and the Duke of Leinster proposed to build Leinster House within its precincts, reflecting the district's brief prosperity.

    Read the passage

    places in London, and a square called Weavers', from the new craft introduced. In a short time it became the residence of all that was opulent and respectable in the city. A patent was granted to act plays, and a theatre was built in Rainsford Street. The Earl of Meath's mansion in Thomas Street was deemed by Sir W. Petty to be the most magnificent palace next to the Castle of Dublin, and the Duke of Leinster proposed to build the splendid family residence of Leinster House within its precincts. This sudden prosperity was of short duration. The jealousy of England was excited by the rapid progress of the manufacture, and a petition was presented to William III. by the Lords, to prohibit and suppress it. In this the subservient Irish Parliament concurred, and an exorbitant duty was laid on, amounting to a prohibition. The ruin of the trade immediately followed, and with it that of the district. The wealthy employers left the country, and all the population that remained were reduced to great distress. Towards the close of the last century, however, the woollen trade had a temporary revival ; in 1792, there were at work upwards of 400 looms, which employed 5,000 persons ; but it drooped rapidly, and now the manufacture is confined to a few hands. It is, we believe, more prosperous in some of the provinces than in Dublin ; in several towns of the South, there are manufactories in full and profitable work.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on Thomas Street once stood the Earl of Meath's mansion, a building that Sir W. Petty judged to be the most magnificent palace in Dublin next to the Castle itself. The district around it had grown suddenly rich. Woollen manufacture had brought wealth and respectability, and a theatre was built in Rainsford Street. The Duke of Leinster even proposed to build the splendid family residence of Leinster House within the precincts of this mansion. But this prosperity did not last. The rapid progress of the woollen trade excited the jealousy of England. A petition was presented to William the Third by the Lords to prohibit and suppress the manufacture. The Irish Parliament concurred, and an exorbitant duty was laid on, amounting to a prohibition. The ruin of the trade followed immediately, and with it the ruin of the district. The wealthy employers left the country, and all the population that remained were reduced to great distress. Towards the close of the last century the woollen trade had a temporary revival. In 1792 there were upwards of 400 looms at work, employing 5,000 persons. But it drooped rapidly, and now the manufacture is confined to a few hands.

38. Four barracks built along the Military Road

    near Glencree · valley · Wicklow · 1798–1853

    Four barracks were built at intervals along the new Military Road, at Glencree, Laragh, Glenmalure, and Aughavanagh, sited to command the surrounding country. They were later sold by the Government and converted into inns, farm-houses, or sporting lodges.

    Read the passage

    One of the principal roads through the mountainous districts of Wicklow, is termed " the military road." It was formed soon after the rebellion of 1798, the ostensible object being to facilitate the march of troops into the disturbed parts of the county; but the real purpose was to open communications through it, and so to promote civilisation and forward practical improvements. There are few benefactors so truly useful as the road-makers. Before this road was made, the hills and valleys of the interior were almost as unapproachable to the stranger as islands without boats. Tour barracks were subsequently built, at considerable distances apart, on the new line ; the sites chosen were Glencree, Laragh, Glenmalure, and Aughavanagh. They have been sold by the Government, and been converted occasionally into inns, farm-houses, or sporting lodges. They are usually beheld from very far distances — the design of the builders being, naturally, to combine as much command of the adjacent country as was possible, with a facility of marching in cases of sudden calls. They stand, therefore, in the midst of broad plains, but plains which are at considerable elevations above the valleys.

    By the Enniskerry road — if we proceed by that — the county is entered at " the Scalp," a chasm in the mountain which separates it from the county of Dublin. The mountain appears to have been divided by some sudden shock of nature. The sides are not " precipitous," although the ascent is difficult, in

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 75

39. Shelton Castle ruinated by Cromwell in 1649

    Shelton Abbey · townland · Wicklow · 1649

    Shelton castle and abbey, built and founded by Theobald Fitzwalter, fourth Lord Butler of Ireland, repeatedly changed hands between Irish and English forces before being destroyed by Oliver Cromwell in 1649.

    Read the passage

    * The castle was built and the abbey founded by Theobald Fitzwalter, fourth Lord Butler of Ireland. The castle repeatedly changed masters — according as the Irish or English had sufficient strength to take and retain it. It was "ruinated " by Oliver Cromwell, in 1649.

    L 2

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 104

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Shelton Abbey, a castle and abbey once stood, built and founded by Theobald Fitzwalter, fourth Lord Butler of Ireland. The place changed hands between Irish and English forces more than once. Oliver Cromwell destroyed it in 1649.

40. The miracle of the apples grown on a willow

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Legend recounts that a young man afflicted with the falling sickness (epilepsy) at Glendalough believed an apple would cure him; since no apple tree existed, St. Kevin caused a willow to bear yellow pippins, which the boy ate and was cured.

    Read the passage

    day." (And here, good reader, is a copy of it, to put the fact beyond dispute.) How " one day in spring, before the blossoms were on the trees, a young man, grievously afflicted with the falling sickness, fancied that an apple would cure him ; and the dickons an apple-tree, at all at all, was about the place ; but what mattered that to the saint ! he ordhered a score of fine yellow pippins to grow upon a willow ; and the boy gathered, and ate, and was cured." * How " the saint was one day going up Derrybawn, and he meets a woman that carried five loaves in her apron. ' What have ye there, good woman ? ' says the saint. ' I have five stones,' says she. ' If they are stones,' says he, 'I pray that they may be bread; and if they are bread,' says lie, ' I pray that they may be stones ! ' So, with that the woman lets 'em fall ; and sure enough stones they were, and are to this day."f How " a vagabone from Connaught stole the saint's mare and her fole, and the saint overtuck him and shtruck him dead upon the spot, wid a look he gav him ; and immediately he ris a cross in the place as a warning to all marrauders ; and

    * A version of this story is quoted by Dr. Ledwich, from " an Icelandic MS. ; " which adds, that "the tree seemed to rejoice in this gift of God, and bears every year a fruit like an apple, which from that time have been called St. Kevin's apples, and are carried over all Ireland, that those labouring under any disease may eat them; and it is notorious, from various relations, that they are the most wholesome medicine against all disorders to which mankind are liable : and it must be observed, that it is not so much for the sweetness of their flavour, as their efficacy in medicine, for which they are esteemed, and for which they are sought."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 97

41. Fin Mac Cool's Cut in the mountain

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    A singular gap in the mountain near Glendalough is called Fin Mac Cool's Cut, said in legend to have been made by the giant Fin with a blow of his sword after hearing bad news of a battle.

    Read the passage

    Of other " haros " besides Saint Kevin, our guide had a store of tales. Of Fin Mac Cool's Cut — a singular gap in the mountain — he told us that "Pin one day met a countryman, and axed what news of the battle. ' Bad,' says he; 'we're bet into smithereens,' ' Och ! murder,' says Fin, 'why wasn't I there ! I'll show ye what I'd have done ; ' so he makes a blow with his soord, and cut a piece out of the hill. We call it the jiaunt's cut ; himself and another jiaunt used to shake hands across the lake." Of course, the " laagends " of King O'Toole are many and various ; we have space but for

    * The following is Mr. Otway's version of this story, as told by Joe Irwin. " This, sir," said he, " is the tomb of Garadh DufF, or Black and Yellow, the horse-stealer, whom St. Kevin killed for telling him a lie. It happened as follows : Black and Yellow one day was coming over the ford, there above, not far from Lough-na-peche, riding a fine black mare with a foal at her foot ; and meeting the saint, blessed Kevin asked him, ' Where, Garadh, did you get that fine baste? ' ' Oh, I bought her from one of the Byrnes.' ' That's a lie, I know by your face, you thief.' ' Oh, by all the books in Rome,' says Garadh, 'what I say is true.' ' Dare you tell me so — now, in order to make a liar and a thief and a holy show of you to the world's end, — I'll fix your foal and mare, there in that rock, and the print of their hoofs shall remain for ever, and you yourself must die and go to purgatory.' ' Well, if I must die,' says the thief, ' plase me, holy father, in one thing, bury me in your own churchyard, and lave a hole in my tombstone, so that if any stray horse or cow should pass by, I may just push up my arm and make a snap at their leg, if it was nothing else but to mind me of my humour, and that I may keep my temper during the long day of the grave."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 98

42. Founding of the Botanic Garden at Glasnevin

    Glasnevin · townland · Dublin · 1790–1818

    The Botanic Garden at Glasnevin, situated on the river Tolka about two miles from Dublin, originated in 1790 when Dr. Wade petitioned the Irish Parliament through Toler (later Lord Norbury), resulting in an annual grant for its establishment. It became the largest botanic garden in the kingdom and a source of civic pride.

    Read the passage

    The Botanic Garden is situated on the north side of Dublin, at Glasnevin, about two miles from the centre of the city. A more admirable site could not have been selected ; a clear stream — the little river Tolka — runs through a miniature valley, to which the ground gradually slopes ; the tall and finely grown trees are sheltered from the north and east winds by adjacent hills; and the neighbourhood has long been celebrated for its salubrity, and its mild temperature. The garden contains about twenty-eight acres, and is, we believe, the largest in the kingdom. It originated in the year 1790, when Dr. Wade presented a petition to the Irish Parliament, by the hands of Toler, afterwards Lord Norbury, the result of which was an annual grant for its establishment and support. It has ever since been an honour and a credit to the city; having been, at the outset, most judiciously and tastefully laid out ; and its several curators having been men of judgment and practical knowledge. A more delightful, interesting, or instructive promenade is not to be found in Europe*: on two days of each week it is opened to the public; but to the studious it is accessible at all times by an order easy to be obtained. Dr. Walsh thus wrote of the garden in 1818 : — " Nothing can exceed the command

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the Botanic Garden at Glasnevin, sitting on the river Tolka about two miles from the centre of Dublin. It covers about 28 acres and was said to be the largest botanic garden in the kingdom. The ground slopes down through a miniature valley, and the trees are sheltered from the north and east winds by the surrounding hills. The garden came about in 1790, when Dr. Wade presented a petition to the Irish Parliament through Toler, afterwards Lord Norbury, which secured an annual grant for its establishment and support. It was laid out with taste and judgment from the start, and its curators were men of practical knowledge. It opened to the public two days each week, and to the studious at all times by an order that was easy to obtain. Dr. Walsh wrote of it in 1818, though his full words are cut off here. The neighbourhood had long been celebrated for its mild temperature, and the garden was seen as a credit to the city.

43. Giant Moose Deer Horns Found in Wicklow Bogs

    near Great Sugar Loaf · mountain or mountain range · Wicklow

    In the bogs of this district, horns of the extinct giant Moose Deer have been discovered, some measuring nearly 12 to 16 feet from tip to tip, with a complete skeleton preserved in the Royal Dublin Society.

    Read the passage

    * In the bogs in this district have been found the horns of the Moose Deer, a gigantic animal, once abundant, but long since extinct, in Ireland. The complete skeleton of one, in the Royal Dublin Society, is of prodigious size; the horns measure from one tip to the other 11 feet 10 inches : but horns have been found much larger — one no less than 16 feet from tip to tip; and a single horn has been discovered measuring upwards of 12 feet. Their history is involved in obscurity ; but there are circumstances whi:h indicate that they were co-existent with man.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass the Great Sugar Loaf in Wicklow, the bogs around here have yielded up the horns of the Moose Deer, a gigantic animal once abundant in Ireland but long extinct. The Royal Dublin Society holds a complete skeleton of one, prodigious in size, with horns measuring 11 feet 10 inches from tip to tip. But far larger finds have come out of these bogs. One set of horns spanned 16 feet from tip to tip, and a single horn measured upwards of 12 feet. Their history is, as the old record says, "involved in obscurity," but there are circumstances that indicate these creatures were co-existent with man.

44. The legend of the loaves turned to stones on Derrybawn

    Derrybawn · townland · Wicklow

    St. Kevin, going up Derrybawn, met a woman carrying what she claimed were five loaves of bread; when the saint declared that if they were stones they should remain bread and vice versa, the loaves fell and turned to stone, remaining so to this day.

    Read the passage

    day." (And here, good reader, is a copy of it, to put the fact beyond dispute.) How " one day in spring, before the blossoms were on the trees, a young man, grievously afflicted with the falling sickness, fancied that an apple would cure him ; and the dickons an apple-tree, at all at all, was about the place ; but what mattered that to the saint ! he ordhered a score of fine yellow pippins to grow upon a willow ; and the boy gathered, and ate, and was cured." * How " the saint was one day going up Derrybawn, and he meets a woman that carried five loaves in her apron. ' What have ye there, good woman ? ' says the saint. ' I have five stones,' says she. ' If they are stones,' says he, 'I pray that they may be bread; and if they are bread,' says lie, ' I pray that they may be stones ! ' So, with that the woman lets 'em fall ; and sure enough stones they were, and are to this day."f How " a vagabone from Connaught stole the saint's mare and her fole, and the saint overtuck him and shtruck him dead upon the spot, wid a look he gav him ; and immediately he ris a cross in the place as a warning to all marrauders ; and

    * A version of this story is quoted by Dr. Ledwich, from " an Icelandic MS. ; " which adds, that "the tree seemed to rejoice in this gift of God, and bears every year a fruit like an apple, which from that time have been called St. Kevin's apples, and are carried over all Ireland, that those labouring under any disease may eat them; and it is notorious, from various relations, that they are the most wholesome medicine against all disorders to which mankind are liable : and it must be observed, that it is not so much for the sweetness of their flavour, as their efficacy in medicine, for which they are esteemed, and for which they are sought."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Derrybawn, in Wicklow, there is a story told of St. Kevin and a woman he met on the hill. He was going up Derrybawn one day, and he met a woman carrying five loaves in her apron. He asked her, "What have ye there, good woman?" and she said, "I have five stones." Now whether she was lying or telling the truth, the saint gave his answer. He said, "If they are stones, I pray that they may be bread; and if they are bread, I pray that they may be stones." With that, the woman let them fall from her apron, and sure enough stones they were, and stones they remain to this day. So the story goes that what she carried were stones all along, and her saying they were stones was the truth she tried to pass off as a jest, or perhaps it was bread she had and she claimed they were stones to keep them from the saint. Either way, his prayer settled the matter. What she carried fell to the ground and became what it truly was. The stones are said to be there still, somewhere on the slopes of Derrybawn, where the woman dropped them that day. This is one of the wonders recorded of St. Kevin, alongside the tale of the young man with the falling sickness who fancied an apple would cure him, and the saint ordered yellow pippins to grow upon a willow, and the boy gathered and ate and was cured.

45. The Seven Churches of Glendalough Praised by Sir Walter Scott

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    The famed ruins known as the Seven Churches of Glendalough, with its Round Tower and lake surrounded by mountains, were described by Sir Walter Scott as an inexpressibly singular scene of Irish antiquities.

    Read the passage

    AS SING the deserted, and half-ruined, barrack of Laragh — built in the midst of an arid common with which its broken walls and desolate aspect are in keeping — we cross a small but picturesque bridge, and enter a narrow road that leads, between hills, to the " dark valley," in which are the longfamed and far-famed ruins of the "seven churches of Glendalough;" to quote an expression of Sir Walter Scott, "the inexpressibly singular scene of Irish antiquities."* The Round Tower first takes the eye ; and, as we advance, one after another, the several points of interest come in sight. It is impossible to imagine aught in Nature more awfully grand than the lake, —

    " Whose gloomy shore Skylark never warbles o'er," —

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 90

46. Celbridge, home of Swift's Vanessa

    Celbridge · town · Kildare

    The village of Celbridge, near Leixlip on the Liffey's banks, is noted as famed for being the residence of Swift's 'Vanessa'.

    Read the passage

    Not far from Leixlip, and beside the "Liffey's Banks," is the village of Celbridge — famed as the residence of Swift's " Yanessa."

    If the Tourist visits Leixlip, he will assuredly continue his walk, or drive, until he reaches Maynooth — but four miles distant from Leixlip.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

47. Construction and decline of the Custom-House

    Custom House · electoral division · Limerick · 1781

    The Custom-house was designed by James Gandon with its foundation stone laid in 1781, costing over £546,000. By the time of writing it had become 'inexpressibly lonely' due to changes in trade regulation that ended the need for customs watching.

    Read the passage

    The Custom-house was designed and erected by Mr. James Gandon, the foundation-stone having been laid in 1781. Its cost was enormous — exceeding 546,000/. It is three hundred and seventy-five feet in length, and two hundred and five in depth, and exhibits four decorated fronts, answering almost directly to the four cardinal points of the compass — the south being the principal front. In the interior are two courts, divided from each other by the corridor, which is one hundred feet broad, and runs from north to south the whole depth of the building. The south, or sea front, is composed of pavilions at each end, joined by arcades, and united to the centre. It is finished in the Doric order, with entablature and bold projecting cornice. A superb dome, one hundred and twenty feet in height, surmounts the whole, on the top of which is a statue of Hope resting on her anchor, sixteen feet high. The north front has a portico of four pillars in the centre, but no pediment. The south front is entirely of Portland stone : the other three are of mountain granite. The effect of this spacious and superb structure is now inexpressibly lonely. Time has produced changes that have rendered it almost useless ; the necessity of watching contrabandists no longer exists ; the assimilation of "duties" has removed clerks and "waiters;" and "bills of

    20 THE FOUR COURTS.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through the Custom House division of Limerick. The Custom House here was designed by James Gandon, with its foundation stone laid in 1781, and it cost over £546,000 to build. It is a vast structure, 375 feet long and 205 feet deep, with four decorated fronts answering to the four cardinal points of the compass, the south being the principal front. A superb dome 120 feet high surmounts the whole, topped by a statue of Hope resting on her anchor, 16 feet tall. The south front is entirely Portland stone, while the other three are mountain granite. By the time of writing, the effect of this spacious and superb structure had become, in the source's words, "inexpressibly lonely." Changes in trade regulation had rendered it almost useless. The necessity of watching contrabandists no longer existed, and the assimilation of duties had removed clerks and waiters from the building.

48. Poor artisans of the Liberties beg for relief in prosperous Dublin

    near The Liberties · street · Dublin

    Sudden stagnation of employment among the poor manufacturers of the Liberties caused temporary distress, driving them to descend in masses to beg for relief in more prosperous parts of the city. Their wild aspect and pallid, squalid appearance marked them as a distinct class from other city inhabitants.

    Read the passage

    It sometimes happens that a sudden stagnation of employment among the poor manufacturers still lingering there, causes a pressure of great temporary distress, and then they descend in masses to beg for relief in the lower and more prosperous parts of the city. They resemble an irruption of some strange and foreign horde. A certain wildness of aspect, with pallid faces and squalid

    e2

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about The Liberties, poor manufacturers once worked and lived. When employment suddenly stopped, they came down in masses to beg for relief in the lower, more prosperous parts of Dublin. People said they resembled "an irruption of some strange and foreign horde," marked by a certain wildness of aspect, with pallid faces and squalid dress.

49. The Historic Oaks of Shillelagh's Deer Park

    Shillelagh · town · Wicklow · 1731–1780

    Records show that in 1731 there were 2,150 oak-trees standing in the Deer Park section of Shillelagh, dwindling to 1,540 by 1737 and only 38 old reserves by 1780, illustrating the decline of the once-vast forest.

    Read the passage

    * Tinahinch lies in a hollow, on the margin of the river; it is classic ground; for here one of Ireland's true patriots — a man who loved his country — composed, and, it is said, continuallyrecited, the eloquent speeches that have made his name immortal. The name of another great statesman is intimately associated with the County of Wicklow — the famous and unfortunate Lord Strafford. The great wood of Shilelagh, which covered the southern portion of the county, was much cut down hy that nohieman, who wrested it from the original proprietors, the O'Byrnes — hecause, "they were unable to produce any written titles to their lands" — when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. Some of the oak he gave to roof St. Patrick's Cathedral. Westminster Hall was, it is said, roofed from the same source. Fynes Moryson alludes to " a commonly received opinion that the Irish wood transported for building is free of spiders and their webs." Near Tinehely are the ruins of a castle — the " cosha," so often alluded to by Lord Strafford in his letters; which the peasantry call "Black Thorn's building." The extensive forests of Shilelagh have dwindled to a few small plantations of oak. Mr. Hayes of Avondale, who published, in 1794, " A Practical Treatise on Planting," states : " It is generally understood that a sale was made of some of the finest timber of Shillelah, which remained in Charles the Second's time, into Holland, for the use of the Stadthouse, and other buildings constructed on piles driven close together, to the number of several thousand." After 1693, however, the woods must have been considerably destroyed, for in that year iron forges and furnaces were introduced into Wicklow, by a company who had the right to cut whatever suited their purpose during the term of their contract, which lasted twenty years. From a paper in the hand-writing of Thomas, Marquis of Rockingham, it appears that, in 1731, there were standing in that part of Shilelagh called the Deer Park 2,150 oak-trees: of these, in 1737, there remained 1,540. In 1780, 38 only of the old reserves were in existence. Their size may be estimated from this fact; the last which Mr. Hayes remembers, when felled, " produced, at three shillings per foot, £27 Is. 8d." In his time there remained one entire tree — " about ten feet round at five feet from the ground, straight as a pine for sixty feet ; and about six feet round at that height." He speaks, also, of a short trunk, which measured twenty-one feet round. The Earl Fitzwilliam, the descendant of the Earl of Strafford, now owns the district of Shilelagh, and has, besides, an immense property in the county of Wicklow.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 84

50. The toothache cross at Our Lady's Church

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    At Our Lady's Church, a stone cross base weighing about 3 cwt was shown to visitors; local tradition held that anyone who carried it between their teeth three times around the ground without pausing for breath would never afterwards suffer toothache.

    Read the passage

    * The river Avonmore is joined in this neighbourhood at the east by the Glendasan river, which flows previously through the vale of Glendasan, having its source in Lough Nahanagan : a river from LugdufFalso supplies the lower lake. The Avonmore, before it passes through Glendalo ugh, is called the River Glenealo. Its fall into the lake is highly picturesque. Among the superstitions of the churchyard, is one common to other places, — that any person buried here will be inevitably saved at the day of judgment; Saint Kevin having prayed that this privilege might be accorded to his favourite church. We were shown here the base of a cross, weight about 3 cwt. ; those who contrive to carry it between their teeth thrice round the ground without pausing to take breath, will never afterwards have the toothache— one of Mr. Wynder's stories to which we may, at least, attach credit.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 95

51. Clontarf Castle, stronghold of the Knights Templars

    Clontarf · parish · Dublin

    Clontarf, reached by the Drogheda railway, has little to see except its Castle, a small but beautiful edifice that was once the stronghold of the Knights Templars.

    Read the passage

    There are also railways to Drogheda and Howth. The Drogheda railway has a station at Clontarf, which is only at a short distance from the city, and may consequently be better visited on foot or on a car. There is, however, little to be seen at Clontarf except the Castle, a small but beautiful edifice, once the stronghold of the Knights Templars. These localities, en route to Drogheda, have been described in our visit to the North.

    NE other topic of interest we must notice before we leave Dublin. The references we have made to the social state of Ireland at the time the staple food of the country vanished, as it were, in a single hour, will doubtless have prepared the reader for an extraordinary decrease in the population, by death from starvation, disease, and emigration. But we scarcely think anything short of the actual fact could have made us believe that such an event could have produced the startling effects it has. In the year 1841 the population of Ireland was 8,175,124. In the year 1851 (the next census), had it

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

52. David La Touche monument in Delgany church

    near Delgany · town · Wicklow · 1785

    A fine twenty-four-foot monument in Delgany church commemorates the Rt. Hon. David La Touche, who died in 1785, featuring medallions of David, Peter, and John La Touche, and a life-sized figure of David La Touche in a pediment niche.

    Read the passage

    * The visitor to Delgany should not omit to see this fine monument in the church, to the memory of the Rt. Hon. David La Touche, who died in 17S5. It is twenty-four feet high, and stands opposite the west entrance. On the entablature are placed three medallions, the centre representing David, the others Peter and John La Touche, Esqs. On one side stands a figure of Mrs. La Touche, holding a cornucopia; and a large life-sized figure of him to whose memory this splendid monument was raised, stands on a pedestal in a niche on the apex of the pediment.

    164 BRAY.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 111

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Delgany in Wicklow, the church holds a fine monument to the Rt. Hon. David La Touche, who died in 1785. It stands twenty-four feet high. Three medallions on the entablature represent David, Peter, and John La Touche. A figure of Mrs. La Touche holds a cornucopia on one side, and a life-sized figure of David La Touche himself stands on a pedestal in a niche at the apex of the pediment.

53. Dublin's growth checked by the Famine

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1841–1851

    The population of Dublin rose between 1841 and 1851 despite losses caused by the Famine and its attendant miseries. The text notes the check to growth from 'the famine' while still recording an overall increase.

    Read the passage

    In population and size, Dublin is the second city of the British empire, and ranks as the seventh of Europe ; it is somewhat above three miles long in a direct line from east to west, and of nearly equal breadth from north to south. It is encompassed by a " circular road," in extent about eleven English miles ; in 1841 the population amounted to 232.726 ; and in 1851, to 258,261— thus leaving a considerable increase, notwithstanding the check which had arisen from " the famine," and the many miseries that followed in its train.* It contains above 800 streets, and 22,000 houses. It is situated at the western extremity of Dublin Bay ; and the river Liffey, which rises among the Wicklow mountains, runs through it ; increased by the King's Biver, the Dodder, and the Tolkan ; but these three rivers are of minor importance. The Liffey is crossed by nine bridges, seven of stone and two of iron, and is embanked on each side along the whole range of the city, a length of 2| miles, by quays faced with granite. The city occupies a space of 1,264 acres ; originally it was confined within walls to the hill upon which the Castle now stands. These walls were not above a mile in circumference. Its increase during the past century was very considerable ; but since the Union, its extent has been very little augmented ; and the mansions of the nobility have, almost without exception, been converted into hotels, public offices, charitable asylums, or schools. The Corporation consists of a lord mayor, aldermen, and common council. The title of Lord Mayor was bestowed on the chief magistrate by Charles I. in 1641. The city returns two Members to the Imperial Parliament ; and two are also returned for the "University. Dublin is the seat of the Vice-regal government. Its first charter was granted by Henry the Second, a.d. 1173 — " to the men of Bristol." The ecclesiastical province of Dublin, over which the Archbishop presides, comprehends the dioceses of Dublin and Glendalough, Kildare, Ossory, Eerns, and Leighlin. Dublin contains two cathedrals — Christ Church and St. Patrick's. The number of vessels belonging to the port in 1851 was, including steamers and vessels of every size, from 15 to 1,200 tons, 448. Most of these vessels were engaged in the coasting or channel trade, six or eight only being employed in the West India trade, the same number in that of Erance and the Spanish Peninsula, and from twenty to thirty in the North American timber trade. The export trade has long been con-

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through Dublin, the second city of the British empire and the seventh of Europe in population and size. It runs somewhat above three miles from east to west, with nearly equal breadth north to south, and a circular road of about eleven English miles encompasses it. In 1841 the population stood at 232,726. By 1851 it had risen to 258,261, leaving a considerable increase, notwithstanding the check which had arisen from the famine and the many miseries that followed in its train. The river Liffey, rising among the Wicklow mountains, runs through the city at the western extremity of Dublin Bay. The Liffey is crossed by nine bridges, seven of stone and two of iron, and embanked along two miles by granite quays. The city occupies 1,264 acres. Originally it was confined within walls on the hill where the Castle now stands, walls not above a mile in circumference. Its increase during the past century was very considerable, but since the Union its extent has been little augmented. The mansions of the nobility have almost without exception been converted into hotels, public offices, charitable asylums, or schools. Dublin contains above 800 streets and 22,000 houses. Its first charter was granted by Henry the Second in 1173, to the men of Bristol. Charles the First bestowed the title of Lord Mayor on the chief magistrate in 1641. The city returns two Members to the Imperial Parliament, and two for the University. It is the seat of the Vice-regal government. There are two cathedrals, Christ Church and St. Patrick's. The number of vessels belonging to the port in 1851 was 448, from 15 to 1,200 tons, most engaged in coasting or channel trade.

54. Finglas's Faded Fashionable Past

    Finglas · parish · Dublin

    Finglas village was formerly a fashionable place of opulence, once supporting two sedan-chairs to convey company to evening parties, but its mansions of the fashionable era are now deserted and in ruins.

    Read the passage

    The village was formerly the abode of opulence and fashion, and supported two sedan-chairs to convey the company to its evening parties. But the mansions of the fashionable are now deserted and in ruins.

    The immediate vicinity of Dublin, in all directions round the city, is of great interest and beauty. The banks of the Liffey, from the quays to a considerable distance beyond Leixlip, and into the county of Kildare, are highly picturesque ; the natural luxuriance of the soil has been improved by taste and cultivation ; and stately mansions and graceful cottages crown the heights of the green hills by which the river is everywhere bordered. The Phoenix Park will be taken in this route ; for the public road runs directly under it. In the park is the residence of the Yiceroy ; and here, of late years, the representative of the sovereign, in Ireland, has constantly resided during the summer ; being more healthful, agreeable, and convenient, than " the Castle." " The Lodge," as it is called, has little pretensions to magnificence. The park contains about 1000 acres, admirably laid out ; the trees are finely grown ; it is " kept " with exceeding care ; and is deservedly classed foremost among the

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 51

55. Kingstown renamed to commemorate George IV's 1821 departure

    Kingstown · townland · Dublin · 1821

    The harbour town of Dunleary was renamed Kingstown in honour of King George the Fourth, who embarked from there on leaving Ireland in 1821. An obelisk was erected on the spot where he last stood, with an inscription recording the event.

    Read the passage

    which received its modern name in honour of His Majesty

    George the Fourth, who took ship-board here on leaving Ireland in

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 15

56. Maynooth's poor dwellings and Carton demesne

    Maynooth · town · Kildare

    Maynooth consists of one long broad street with dwellings between houses and cabins having an air of exceeding discomfort. At one end is the entrance to Carton, seat of the Duke of Leinster; at the other are the ruins of the ancient castle and St. Patrick's College.

    Read the passage

    Maynooth consists of one long and broad street ; the dwellings, of a class between houses and cabins, at either side, having an air of exceeding discomfort. At one end of the town is the entrance to Carton, the seat of " Ireland's only Duke ; " at the other, are the ruins of the ancient castle, and the " Royal College of St. Patrick." The college is a peculiarly ungainly and ungraceful structure ; it appears to have been originally a mansion of moderate size, to which additions have been made from time to time, and where elegance and uniformity have been sacrificed to convenience.

    The College was founded in the year 1795. Previously, youths intended for the Roman Catholic Church were compelled to enter foreign universities, and to graduate there — having received the rudiments of learning, how and where they could, in their own country* Towards the close of the eighteenth century, however, the war with the Continent in which Great Britain was engaged, rendered the transmission of students dangerous as well as difficult ; and, the more liberal spirit of the age favouring the project, application was made to the Irish Parliament, by several leading members of the Roman Catholic Church, for leave to establish a college, under charter, for their education at home. Permission was granted, and, with it, a vote of money to aid in providing suitable premises ; the act for its incorporation receiving the royal assent on the 5th of June, 1795. The site was not fortunately chosen ;

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Maynooth, it is one long, broad street, with dwellings the source calls a class between houses and cabins, having an air of exceeding discomfort. At one end stands the entrance to Carton, seat of Ireland's only Duke, the Duke of Leinster. At the other are the ruins of the ancient castle and the Royal College of St. Patrick. The college is described as a peculiarly ungainly and ungraceful structure, apparently a mansion of moderate size with additions made over time, where elegance and uniformity were sacrificed to convenience. It was founded in 1795. Before that, youths intended for the Roman Catholic Church had to enter foreign universities and graduate there, picking up the rudiments of learning however and wherever they could at home. Towards the close of the eighteenth century, the war with the Continent made sending students abroad dangerous and difficult. Several leading members of the Roman Catholic Church applied to the Irish Parliament for leave to establish a college under charter for education at home. Permission was granted, with a vote of money to aid in providing suitable premises, and the act for incorporation received the royal assent on the 5th of June, 1795. The site, the source notes, was not fortunately chosen.

57. Priory of St. Saviour near Glendalough

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    A ruined church near Laragh bridge, called the 'Monastery' by locals and 'Priory of St. Saviour' by Ledwich, is described as the most elaborately finished of the Glendalough structures. Two of its round pillars survive, one nearly perfect with sculptured ornaments including the 'dog and serpent' carving.

    Read the passage

    We are first introduced to the ruins, within about a mile of " the city," on the road from Laragh bridge, but on the opposite side of the river ; the remains are those of a church, which the peasantry call the " Monastery," but to which Ledwich refers as " the Priory oe St. Saviour," and which is so marked in the Ordnance map. It seems to have escaped the notice of travellers, although, beyond doubt, the most elaborately finished of the structures ; two of its round pillars still endure in a good state, one of them being nearly perfect, and containing several sculptured ornaments ; — that which originated the legend of the "dog and serpent" being very prominent. The ruin is overgrown with brambles, and a flourishing mountain-ash has forced its way through a crevice of the wall. The remains of another church — "the Trinity"— are also to be inspected before entering " the city."

    The " City of Glendalough ," a name which signifies " the glen of the two lakes," owes its origin to St. Kevin, by whom the abbey was founded early in the sixth century, and where he is believed to have died on the 3d of June, a.d. 619, on the anniversary of which the " pattern" (patron) is still held.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 92

58. Royal Hibernian Academy building on Abbey Street

    Abbey Street · street · Dublin · 1823

    The Royal Hibernian Academy, chartered in 1823 for the promotion of the fine arts, possessed a spacious building in Abbey Street erected for them by architect Francis Johnston, who gave them a lease forever at an annual rent of five shillings.

    Read the passage

    papers on purely scientific subjects — viz., mathematical and physical ; these contain more that is "new," and hold a higher rank, than the publications of any similar body in Europe ; and next to these, valuable contributions upon national archaeological remains, and ancient Irish art, matters which have lately attracted much more than their wonted interest. A museum is attached to the institution, which contains a collection of rare and interesting Irish relics. The " Natural History Society," which consists chiefly of younger gentlemen labouring for the acquisition of knowledge, has already formed a museum of great value. "The Royal Hibernian Academy" was chartered in 1823, for the promotion of the fine arts. It consists of fourteen academicians and ten associates. The members possess a noble and spacious building in Abbey Street, erected for them by the late Francis Johnston, Esq., architect ; the munificent artist having given them a lease of it for ever, at the annual rent of five shillings. Its members receive an annual government grant of 300/., being, we believe, the only "Art-Society" in the kingdom so assisted.

    The Theatre in Hawkins Street was for a very long period under the able and efficient management of Mr. Calcraft. It is an elegant building, erected in 1820, by Samuel Beazley, Esq. ;* but, like almost all theatres, it is in its decadence. The various other institutions we must pass over briefly.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 44

59. See of Glendalough united with Dublin, disputed by O'Tooles

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow · 1199–1497

    The See of Glendalough was united with that of Dublin in the reign of King John, but the mandate was disputed by the O'Tooles in whose territory it stood. Prelates continued to be nominally appointed until Friar Dennis White surrendered possession in 1497.

    Read the passage

    acts, and sharers in his merits ; and, with him, to encounter every severity of climate and condition. " This influence extended even to Britain, and induced St. Mochuorog to convey himself hither, who fixed his residence in a cell on the east side of Glendalough, where a city soon sprung up, and a seminary was founded, from whence were sent forth many saints and exemplary men, whose sanctity and learning diffused around the Western world that universal light of letters and religion, which, in the earlier ages, shone so resplendent throughout this remote and at that time tranquil isle, and were almost exclusively confined to it." The See of Glendalough was united with that of Dublin in the reign of King John ; but the mandate of the sovereign was disputed by the O'Tooles, in whose territory it stood ; and although the territories were estranged, they continued to fill the See for a long period afterwards — the last of the nominal prelates, Friar Dennis White, surrendering the possession in 1497. Long before that period, b owe ver, the city had vastly declined in importance; having become— we quote from Ware — " waste and desolate, a den and nest for thieves and robbers ; so that more murders are committed in that valley than in any other place in Ireland, occasioned by the vast desert solitude thereof." " From what can now be discovered of the ancient city," writes Dr. Ledwich, " by its walls above, and foundations below the surface of the earth, it probably extended from the Rhefeart church to the Ivy church, on both sides of the river. The only street appearing, is the road leading from the market place into the county of Kildare; it is in good preservation, being paved with stones placed edgewise, and ten feet in breadth." These stones have now all vanished — at least we looked for them in vain ; except adjacent to the entrance. * Upon this subject we quote Dr. Ledwich. " The number seven was mystical and sacred,

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 92

60. Statue of Sir Michael O'Loghlen, first Catholic Master of the Rolls

    Four Courts · site · Dublin

    The Four Courts hall contains a life-size white marble statue of Sir Michael O'Loghlen, notable as the first Roman Catholic to hold the position of Master of the Rolls after the passing of the Roman Catholic Emancipation Act.

    Read the passage

    is surrounded by Corinthian columns. Prom the attic springs the dome — forming a conspicuous object from all parts of the city. In this dome are the eight windows by which the hall is lighted ; and between these windows are eight colossal statues in alto rilievo — emblematic of Liberty, Justice, Wisdom, Law, Prudence, Mercy, Eloquence, and Punishment. There are also basso rilievo medallions of the principal lawgivers of the world, and tablets representing the most interesting events in legal history, as the granting of Magna- Charta, &c. Magnificent and spacious additions have been lately made. The principal of these are the Rolls Court, the Nisi Prius Court, and the court of the Commissioners of Bankrupts — a library for the use of the bar, and two large rooms for the convenience of barristers and attorneys for a coffee-room. The hall contains a fine statue, life size, in white marble, of a late master of the Rolls, Sir Michael O'Loghlen, the first Roman Catholic who obtained that high position on the Irish Bench, after the passing of the Roman Catholic Emancipation Act.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Right here, by the Four Courts in Dublin, the hall holds a life-size white marble statue of Sir Michael O'Loghlen. He was a late Master of the Rolls, and the first Roman Catholic to obtain that high position on the Irish Bench, after the passing of the Roman Catholic Emancipation Act. The hall around him is surrounded by Corinthian columns, and a dome springs from the attic, forming a conspicuous object from all parts of the city. Eight windows light the hall, and between them stand eight colossal statues in high relief, emblematic of Liberty, Justice, Wisdom, Law, Prudence, Mercy, Eloquence, and Punishment. There are also medallions in low relief of the principal lawgivers of the world, and tablets representing the most interesting events in legal history, such as the granting of Magna Carta. Magnificent and spacious additions had been lately made at the time of the account, including the Rolls Court, the Nisi Prius Court, and the court of the Commissioners of Bankrupts, a library for the use of the bar, and two large rooms for the convenience of barristers and attorneys, and a coffee-room.