Dublin and Wicklow

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. The sublime pass of Glenmalure

   near Glenmalur · valley · Wicklow

   Glenmalure is described as the most sublime pass in the Wicklow mountains, with precipitous granite sides bordering the river Avonbeg, which rises at Loughfinogefin and descends via the Ess waterfall before settling near the Lead Mine.

   Read the passage

   LENMALURE is a still wilder part of this district, which - from Glendalough must be gained by the military road over Derrybawn and Lugduff. The descent into the glen by the little inn at Dunngoff is among the wildest scenery '^ in Wicklow ; and whatever the impression left by our visit to Glendalough, and the peculiar interest belonging to its " gloomy lake " and group of ruins, we must admit that until we stood under the impending cliff that overhangs the entrance to Glenmalure we had not seen decidedly the most sublime pass in these mountains. On either side for three or four miles its precipitous sides are formed of weather-worn masses of granite, that in many places seem ready to spring from their dizzy heights into the bed of the Avoubeg, which has its rise in Loughfinogefin, and after bounding down the fall called the Ess at the north extremity of the glen, and receiving the homage of its many tributaries in its troubled course, seems weary of the toil, and settles down near the Lead Mine into a sedate river, leisurely wandering from side to side of a narrow but luxuriant stripe of meadow-land, its own alluvial formation. Few tourists venture further up the glen than the Lead Mine, for beyond this no vehicle can proceed, though some thirty years since, however difficult and dangerous, it was not impossible to drive by this mountain track into the Glen of Imael.

   Erom the Lead Mine, looking up the river, we observed to the left what appeared to be another glen, not less romantic, but on approaching to explore it, it proved to be only a vast hollow in the side of Lugnaquilla, known to the peasantry as the Glen of the Faughan rock, from the abundant growth of this fruit-bearing little shrub, which crowns its rugged sides.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 100

2. Archbishop Ussher's Tenure at Finglas

   Finglas · parish · Dublin

   The learned Archbishop Ussher was incumbent of Finglas and separated the vicarial from the rectorial tithes because he thought he could not conscientiously receive the whole.

   Read the passage

   * Among the successors of St. Patrick have heen many eminent saints. St. Canice, to whom the parish church is dedicated, and whose name is engraved on the ancient communion service plate, was followed hy others, whose bones repose under the chancel of the church ; and since the time of the Reformation the benefice has been filled by several distinguished men. The learned Archbishop Usher was incumbent of Finglas, and separated the vicarial from the rectorial tithes, because he thought he could not conscientiously receive the whole. Since then, the rectorial:

   68 THE LIFFEY.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 51

3. Colonel Hall's mines at Kippagh and Balleydehob

   Ballydehob · townland · Cork

   Colonel Hall discovered and worked mines at Kippagh and Balleydehob, about eight miles from Skibbereen; the former yielded malachite as fine as Russian malachite. His speculations, though pioneering, proved financially disastrous to himself and his family.

   Read the passage

   * It -was principally in this locality that Colonel Hall (the father of one of the authors of this work, and to whom we have made more distinct reference in treating of the mines at Killaney, ) discovered and opened several mines ; that at Kippagh, and that at Balleydehob, (both about eight miles from Skibbereen,) he discovered and worked : the first named of these two yielded a quantity of malachite quite as fine as the Russian. Colonel Hall, as we have elsewhere observed, was the pioneer who led the way to more fortunate followers. Although he raised ore in Ireland, and sold it in Swansea, to the value of about 400,000?., his speculations were unfortunately disastrous to himself and his family. Yet his example was not without beneficial effects to Ireland ; and unquestionably showed what English energy, enterprise, and capital might achieve in that richly endowed country.

   J 54 MINERAL THE Ai TIRES.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 108

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, Colonel Hall discovered and worked mines at Kippagh and Ballydehob, both about eight miles from Skibbereen. He was the father of one of the authors of the book this story comes from. The mine at Kippagh yielded malachite as fine as the Russian. He was the pioneer who led the way to more fortunate followers. Although he raised ore in Ireland and sold it in Swansea to the value of about 400,000 pounds, his speculations were disastrous to himself and his family. Yet his example was not without beneficial effects to Ireland, and showed what English energy, enterprise, and capital might achieve in that richly endowed country.

4. Decline of the Irish Bar at the Four Courts

   Four Courts · site · Dublin · 1786–1800

   The Four Courts building, completed in 1800 by James Gandon after Thomas Cooley's death, now shows a deserted appearance reflecting how 'law reform' diminished litigation; practising barristers numbered only a third of their former count.

   Read the passage

   The principal courts of law, commonly called the " Pour Courts," present the same deserted appearance, and show how much the love for litigation or the means to carry it on have died away, and how heavily " law reform " has fallen upon the Irish Bar. The practising barristers do not amount to more than a third of their former number, and the silence of the "Hall" is now scarcely broken by the thin assemblage of lawyers and clients where not long ago there was a perpetual buzz, like the growling of an incipient volcano. The building which contains the several Irish courts of law, was commenced by the architect, Mr. Thomas Cooley, in 1786 ; and, in consequence of his death, continued by Mr. James Gandon, by whom it was completed in the year 1800, at a total cost of 200,000/., since which period extensive and expensive alterations have been made. It is situated on the north side of the Liffey ; and is an exceedingly beautiful and attractive object, seen either from an adjacent point, or from a distance. The whole edifices of the law courts and the law offices together form an oblong rectangle of four hundred and forty feet in front to the river, and one hundred and seventy feet deep to the rear. The centre pile, one hundred and forty feet square, divides off the law offices, and forms two court-yards, one to the east, the other to the west, which courts are shut out from the street by handsome screen walls, perforated by arches (defaced, by the way, by lines of old-book stalls). The middle structure contains the " Pour Courts " of judicature — Chancery, King's Bench, Exchequer, and Common Pleas. On the pediment over the portico stands the statue of Moses, with figures representing Justice on the one hand, and Mercy on the other. On the corners of the building, over the coupled pilasters, are sitting statues of Wisdom and Authority. "To have a clear conception of the disposition of the various apartments of the inside," writes Mr. James Malton, " as they are arranged around the circular hall, it is necessary first to conceive the plan well, which may be distinctly delineated in the imagination, by figuring a circle of sixty-four feet diameter, in the centre of a square of one hundred and forty feet, with the four courts radiating from the circle to the angles of the square." The various offices occupy the spaces between the courts. The Hall

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   Right here at the Four Courts in Dublin, the principal courts of law show a deserted appearance. The love for litigation, or the means to carry it on, have died away, and what the source calls law reform has fallen heavily upon the Irish Bar. The practising barristers do not amount to more than a third of their former number. The silence of the Hall is now scarcely broken by the thin assemblage of lawyers and clients, where not long ago there was a perpetual buzz, like the growling of an incipient volcano. The building was commenced by the architect Thomas Cooley in 1786. After his death it was continued by James Gandon, who completed it in 1800, at a total cost of 200,000 pounds. Extensive and expensive alterations have been made since. The whole edifice of the law courts and law offices together forms an oblong rectangle of 440 feet in front to the river and 170 feet deep. The centre pile, 140 feet square, divides off the law offices and forms two courtyards, one east and one west, shut out from the street by screen walls perforated by arches, defaced by lines of old-book stalls. The middle structure contains the Four Courts of judicature: Chancery, King's Bench, Exchequer, and Common Pleas. On the pediment over the portico stands the statue of Moses, with figures representing Justice on one hand and Mercy on the other. On the corners sit statues of Wisdom and Authority. James Malton wrote that to grasp the layout of the apartments arranged around the circular hall, you must picture a circle of 64 feet diameter in the centre of a square of 140 feet, with the four courts radiating from the circle to the angles of the square. The various offices occupy the spaces between the courts.

5. Gold found by Wicklow peasantry

   Wicklow · townland · Wicklow

   Native gold once existed so plentifully in Wicklow that peasants obtained more than £10,000 worth of it in a single year, though the annual yield had since become small.

   Read the passage

   In addition to these mines, native gold (as we have shown) exists ; and was once found so plentifully by the peasantry in Wicklow that they obtained more than 10,000/. worth in a single year. The annual produce is now, however, small. There are also mines in Ireland of antimony, manganese in several localities, zinc, bismuth, nicklel and chrome. Slate quarries are abundant, and

   * It -was principally in this locality that Colonel Hall (the father of one of the authors of this work, and to whom we have made more distinct reference in treating of the mines at Killaney, ) discovered and opened several mines ; that at Kippagh, and that at Balleydehob, (both about eight miles from Skibbereen,) he discovered and worked : the first named of these two yielded a quantity of malachite quite as fine as the Russian. Colonel Hall, as we have elsewhere observed, was the pioneer who led the way to more fortunate followers. Although he raised ore in Ireland, and sold it in Swansea, to the value of about 400,000?., his speculations were unfortunately disastrous to himself and his family. Yet his example was not without beneficial effects to Ireland ; and unquestionably showed what English energy, enterprise, and capital might achieve in that richly endowed country.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 108

6. Powerscourt Demesne and its Great Waterfall

   Powerscourt · parish · Wicklow

   The demesne of Powerscourt, containing 1,400 acres, is described as one of the most auspiciously situated estates, with a waterfall nearly 300 feet high formed by the Dargle river falling from Douce mountain.

   Read the passage

   dale, and wood and water, are so skilfully blended or divided ; and the whole is so completely inclosed by mountains, apparently " inaccessible to mortal feet," as to realise the picture of the " happy valley." The " waterfall"— distant between two and three miles from the house — is, perhaps, the most magnificent fall in the county of Wicklow ; it is nearly perpendicular, its entire height being, it is said, about 300 feet ; but it is only in winter, or in very wet seasons, that the water is precipitated the entire distance at a single bound, and then it seems an immense arch of foam. After heavy rains, it descends in one broad sheet unchecked and unbroken by a single rock; but in dry weather it more resembles a thin covering of white gauze, through which the interstices of the hill and its several breaks and crevices are distinctly visible. When fully charged, however, the rapidity and fury of the descent is almost incredible, accompanied by an absolute roar, amid which the sound of a trumpet would be scarcely audible at the distance of a yard. The cataract is formed by the Dargle (or Glenislorane) river, an obscure mountain stream until it reaches the precipice, part of the Douce mountain, from which it falls, making its way through the glen of the Dargle, and meeting the sea at Bray; having been united near "the Deer Park" gate with the river Glencree.

   "The Daegle" commences, as we have intimated, on the side opposite the gate to Powerscourt ; but more correctly speaking, the glen terminates here ;

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 83

7. Temporary revival of the woollen trade, 1792

   near The Liberties · street · Dublin · 1792

   Towards the close of the eighteenth century the woollen trade in the Liberties had a temporary revival, with upwards of 400 looms at work in 1792 employing 5,000 persons, before drooping again to a few hands by the time of writing.

   Read the passage

   places in London, and a square called Weavers', from the new craft introduced. In a short time it became the residence of all that was opulent and respectable in the city. A patent was granted to act plays, and a theatre was built in Rainsford Street. The Earl of Meath's mansion in Thomas Street was deemed by Sir W. Petty to be the most magnificent palace next to the Castle of Dublin, and the Duke of Leinster proposed to build the splendid family residence of Leinster House within its precincts. This sudden prosperity was of short duration. The jealousy of England was excited by the rapid progress of the manufacture, and a petition was presented to William III. by the Lords, to prohibit and suppress it. In this the subservient Irish Parliament concurred, and an exorbitant duty was laid on, amounting to a prohibition. The ruin of the trade immediately followed, and with it that of the district. The wealthy employers left the country, and all the population that remained were reduced to great distress. Towards the close of the last century, however, the woollen trade had a temporary revival ; in 1792, there were at work upwards of 400 looms, which employed 5,000 persons ; but it drooped rapidly, and now the manufacture is confined to a few hands. It is, we believe, more prosperous in some of the provinces than in Dublin ; in several towns of the South, there are manufactories in full and profitable work.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 43

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about The Liberties, the woollen trade had a brief late flowering. In 1792, upwards of 400 looms were at work here, employing 5,000 persons. It was a temporary revival in a district that had once known far greater days. Earlier, this area had been the residence of all that was opulent and respectable in the city. A theatre was built in Rainsford Street. The Earl of Meath's mansion in Thomas Street was called the most magnificent palace next to the Castle of Dublin, and the Duke of Leinster proposed to build Leinster House within its precincts. That prosperity was short-lived. The jealousy of England was excited by the rapid progress of the manufacture, and a petition was presented to William III by the Lords to prohibit and suppress it. The Irish Parliament concurred, and an exorbitant duty was laid on, amounting to a prohibition. The ruin of the trade followed, the wealthy employers left the country, and the remaining population were reduced to great distress. The 1792 revival drooped rapidly, and now the manufacture is confined to a few hands, though it is more prosperous in several towns of the South.

8. Theft of the carved serpent stone at Glendalough

   Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow · 1839

   A stone carved with a dog devouring a serpent, fixed under the east window of the tower to commemorate St. Kevin's dog Lupus killing the serpent, was stolen by a person disguised as a gentleman in 1839.

   Read the passage

   with a carving upon it of a dog devouring a serpent. This stone, which Ledwich describes, was stolen on the 20th of August, 1S39, by a person in the garb of a gentleman.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 99

9. Construction of Kingstown's great harbour pier

   Kingstown · townland · Dublin · 1817

   The extensive and expensive harbour works at Kingstown had their first stone laid in 1817 by Lord Whitworth, then Viceroy of Ireland. The pier extended 2,800 feet and was designed to allow large ships including a seventy-four-gun vessel to find refuge within its enclosure.

   Read the passage

   t The first stone of this extensive, and expensive, work was laid in 1817, by Lord Whitworth, then Viceroy of Ireland. " The pier," according to the Picture of Dublin, " extends 2,800 feet, and is at the base two hundred feet in breadth ; it terminates in a nearly perpendicular face on the side of the harbour, and an inclined plane towards the sea. A quay fifty feet wide runs along

   OBELISK AT KINGSTOWN.

   Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

10. Establishment of Harold's Cross Protestant Cemetery

    near Haroldscross · population centre · Dublin

    A third cemetery was established at Harold's Cross, designated exclusively for Protestant burials, as part of the broader resolution to sectarian burial disputes in Dublin.

    Read the passage

    Adjacent to Glasnevin is a public cemetery. There was no subject in Ireland which contributed more to keep alive the asperity of parties than that of burials. By an anomaly peculiar to the Irish character, the angry passions which agitate men in life were not relinquished in death ; every funeral was a signal to renew them, and the embers of discord were raked up and fomented even among the ashes of the dead. An obsolete fragment of the penal statutes continued unrepealed till a late date. It prohibited Roman Catholic priests from officiating in Protestant churchyards, even for a member of their own flock. To put an end to this state of things, Lord Plunket, then attorney-general, brought in a bill by which a Protestant incumbent might give permission to a Boman Catholic priest to perform the service on his "asking permission in writing." But this did not satisfy the angry parties. The one would not ask the boon in the prescribed form, and the other would not compromise their " privilege " if the minutest formula were omitted. The result was the formation of a cemetery on the south side of the city. The success of the attempt induced the promoters to establish another, on a larger scale, contiguous to the Botanic Gardens. Curran, the celebrated advocate, has a monument here ; and a tomb was here erected for "Rut liven, a " liberal " member for Dublin : but it was little more than commenced, and the fragments of it lie neglected and trampled upon. It is in this cemetery, also, that the mortal remains of O'Connell repose, without any monument to mark the last resting place of one now almost forgotten, but once the idol of his countrymen. A third cemetery has been established at Harold's Cross, exclusively Protestant.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 50

11. London company works Wicklow gold mines from 1840

    Croghan Mountain · townland · Wexford · 1840

    About 1840 a London-formed company took a lease of the district and worked the gold mines under a Cornish miner, though on a small scale without tracing the gold to its source.

    Read the passage

    Since this abandonment — a period of more than fifty years — the peasantry have still, occasionally, found morsels of the precious metal. At first, the pursuit was resumed with exceeding avidity, but the appetite grew less and less strong as the chances of discoveries diminished ; and although now and then a group might have been noticed raking the debris which the streams had brought from the mountains — or, more frequently, a solitary wanderer detected scraping the edges of the current, and peering with longing eyes into the mud and gravel of the river — the people generally had returned to the more profitable labour of drawing riches from the earth by the spade and plough. About the year 1840, however, a company, formed in London, took a lease of the district, and worked the mines under the superintendence of a practical miner from Cornwall ; but some miles distant from the place where the original Gold Mines were worked. They were still conducted upon a small and poor scale with variable success ; scarcely, indeed, a remove from the rough process of the peasantry, making no attempt to trace the gold to its source, but contenting themselves with obtaining as much as they could from the clay that borders the stream. Yet the scene was one of exceeding interest; of which the accompanying sketch will convey some idea.

    ET us here glance for a moment at some of the mineral treasures in which Ireland is proverbially rich. Of these the most important is fuel. Bog and turf are words so often associated with the name of Ireland, that the importance and extent of her coal-fields are greatly underrated. The total area of bog is estimated at 2,830,000 acres, scattered in different localities, — sometimes in small patches, at other times, as in the Bog of Allen, covering a vast tract. Sometimes the bog is scarcely thicker than the sod that grows upon it ; and at other times it is of great depth. Sometimes it is comparatively solid, at other times it makes what are called "shaking bogs," forming vast

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 106

12. Superstition of burial at St. Kevin's church

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Among the superstitions of the churchyard at Glendalough is the belief that any person buried there will inevitably be saved at the day of judgment, since St. Kevin prayed for this privilege to be accorded to his favourite church.

    Read the passage

    * The river Avonmore is joined in this neighbourhood at the east by the Glendasan river, which flows previously through the vale of Glendasan, having its source in Lough Nahanagan : a river from LugdufFalso supplies the lower lake. The Avonmore, before it passes through Glendalo ugh, is called the River Glenealo. Its fall into the lake is highly picturesque. Among the superstitions of the churchyard, is one common to other places, — that any person buried here will be inevitably saved at the day of judgment; Saint Kevin having prayed that this privilege might be accorded to his favourite church. We were shown here the base of a cross, weight about 3 cwt. ; those who contrive to carry it between their teeth thrice round the ground without pausing to take breath, will never afterwards have the toothache— one of Mr. Wynder's stories to which we may, at least, attach credit.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 95

13. The Devil's Glen, divided between two estates

    near Devil's Glen · valley · Wicklow

    The entrance to the Devil's Glen near Ashford is on land belonging to Charles Tottenham, while the opposite side of the river belongs to Francis Synge. Visitors must leave their names at Tottenham's lodge to receive an order for admission from the gatekeeper.

    Read the passage

    About two miles from the inn at Newarth Bridge, and one from the village of Ashford, commences the entrance to "the Devil's Glen," or rather to that side of it which is the property of Charles Tottenham, Esq.; for the river divides it ; the opposite land belonging to Francis Synge, Esq. Mr. Tottenham requires that all visitors shall leave their names at his Lodge, where an order for admission into the glen is given by the lodge-keeper, a kindly and gossiping dame, in whose company the stranger may spend a few minutes very profitably. A narrow road — but not too narrow for ordinary carriages — shadowed all the way by luxuriant trees, runs, for nearly a mile, to the iron gate that bars the passage of all intruders ; but where a call for admission is at once answered. As we enter (the overhanging foliage has hitherto concealed its character), the scene that at once bursts upon the sight is inconceivably grand and beautiful. We are between two huge mountains, the precipitous sides of the one being covered with the finest forest trees, of innumerable forms and hues, the greater number having been planted by the hand of Nature ; but where she had manifested neglect or indifference, Art has acted as a skilful and judicious attendant, and provided a remedy for the omission. The other mountain is rugged and half-naked; huge masses of uncovered stone jutting out over the brawling river, into which they seem ready to fall, and where gigantic rocks have already striven to stay the onward progress of the wrathful current — in vain. How striking and how exquisite is the contrast between the side rich in foliage, and that which still continues bare ! for

    " Green leaves were here : But 'twas the foliage of the rocks, the birch, The yew, the holly, and the bright green thorn, With hanging islands of resplendent furze : "

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 108

14. The Salmon-leap at Leixlip

    Leixlip · town · Kildare

    Leixlip in County Kildare is described as one of the most beautiful spots of scenery in the kingdom, with its main attraction being the Salmon-leap waterfall, a wide and picturesque cataract about half a mile from the road.

    Read the passage

    sight-seeing. Driving towards the park we pass along the banks of the Liffey opposite to the Royal Barracks, before which is a railed enclosure. The barracks stand upon a height, and form a handsome range of stone buildings without possessing any characteristic features. Should the Tourist desire it he .can visit the Hibernian Soldiers' School and the Royal Hospital of Kilmainham ; but if pressed for time it is better to drive at once straight through the Phoenix Park. The viceregal lodge may be seen from the park road, and we pass by the Zoological Gardens, which we leave at our right, the Wellington Testimonial being at our left, and the " Phoenix" before us. Issuing through the Knockmaroon gate, we find ourselves upon the Lucan road on the banks of the river. Following the road, which runs almost all along by its margin, we may visit Lucan, the Salmon-leap, and Leixlip, all famous for their historic associations. Leixlip is in. the county of Kildare. It is one of the most beautiful tc bits of scenery" in the kingdom, and within a distance of ten miles from the metropolis. The village is neat and pretty ; but the leading object of attraction is the Salmon-leap, about half a mile from the road. After passing along two or three green fields, through which a foot-way has been generously made, the roar of the waterfall greets the ear, and through some skilfully formed breaks among the foliage that skirts the river, occasional glimpses of it are caught. The cataract is of great

    MAYNOOTH. 71

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Leixlip in County Kildare, you're in one of the most beautiful bits of scenery in the kingdom, within ten miles of Dublin. The village itself is neat and pretty, but the great attraction is the Salmon-leap, a wide cataract on the river. After a short walk through green fields along a footpath, the roar of the waterfall reaches you, and through breaks in the foliage you catch glimpses of it before the full view opens up.

15. The Scalp - a chasm marking the entry to Wicklow

    near The Scalp · feature · Dublin

    The Scalp is described as a chasm in the mountain dividing Wicklow from County Dublin, appearing as though the mountain had been split by a sudden shock of nature. It marks the entrance to the county along the Enniskerry road.

    Read the passage

    By the Enniskerry road — if we proceed by that — the county is entered at " the Scalp," a chasm in the mountain which separates it from the county of Dublin. The mountain appears to have been divided by some sudden shock of nature. The sides are not " precipitous," although the ascent is difficult, in

    rule the lovely county was left until the close of that Queen's reign, when their ravages and daring assaults upon the Capital drew upon them the vengeance of the state. The " septs " were principally those of the O'Byrnes and the O'Tooles.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 75

16. Sir Philip Crampton's Swiss cottage rises amid the bog at Lough Bray

    near Lough Bray · lake or lakes · Wicklow

    A Swiss cottage and grounds belonging to Sir P. Crampton, the surgeon-general, appears suddenly amid the wild bog near Lough Bray, contrasting sharply with the surrounding neglect and barrenness. The author likens the effect to an oasis in the desert.

    Read the passage

    of Glencree, forming the Glencree river, which joining with the Glenislorane in Powerscourt demesne, passes through the Dargle, and finally flows into the sea, under the name of the Bray river. The waters of Lough Bray are coloured very deeply by the peat which covers the surrounding hills, through which the water permeates ; and the deep and gloomy tint is increased by the shadow into which the lake is thrown by the overhanging mountain to the south and west. There is one object connected with Lough Bray that looks like the work of enchantment; the Swiss cottage and grounds belonging to Sir P. Crampton, Bart, (the surgeon-general), appears suddenly in the wild bog, and seems as if " rising at the stroke of a magician's wand." The wall that surrounds these grounds is not, in some places, as high as the bank of peat within a few feet of it, and the contrast between the neglect, desolation, and barrenness that reign without, and the order, cultivation, and beauty within, is very strik- _ . -^i?5v^-.- in& exhibiting the

    - - ~ ~— fW7^-"- mastery which sci-

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 77

17. Druidic Stone Remains atop the Sugar-loaf

    near Great Sugar Loaf · mountain or mountain range · Wicklow

    At the summit of the Sugar-loaf mountain, a level space is sheltered on the west by large stones believed to be the remains of a Druidic temple.

    Read the passage

    ascent of the Sugar-loaf is, however, comparatively easy if we keep the road to Roundwood, which entering Glencormac, by the ruins of Kilmacanogue church, winds round the west side, and leads the pedestrian to within a few hundred paces of the summit. The sides of this cone are covered with heath, which grows from a surface of peat of variable depth, huge masses of rock being scattered at intervals among it. Our way was lost ; and we were forced to follow, as guides, the gulleys or water-courses ; after a weary tramp, ankledeep in bog, one of them conducted us to the summit. The top of the mountain, which, from a distance, appears so small and peaked, is a level space of several yards, sheltered on the west by a number of very large stones, the

    * The artist made his drawing "from the hill, after passing through Dalkey, on the my to Bray. It is a foot-way, which leads above the Bay of Dalkey Tsland ; and the foreground is the Sea. The foot-way leads round the mountains above 'the quarries,' and joins the main road— after a delicious walk of about three miles, from which picturesque views are very numerous."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is the Great Sugar Loaf in Wicklow. The sides of this cone are covered in heath growing from peat, with huge masses of rock scattered among it. The summit, which from a distance looks small and peaked, is actually a level space of several yards, sheltered on the west by a number of very large stones believed to be the remains of a Druidic temple.

18. Opening of the Dublin and Kingstown Railway

    Kingstown · townland · Dublin · 1834–1837

    The Dublin and Kingstown Railway opened to the public on 17 December 1834, though it was not completed along its entire length until 1837. Trains ran frequently, with cheap third-class fares available for the seven-mile journey.

    Read the passage

    * The Dublin and Kingstown Railway was opened to the public on the 17th December, 1834; but was not finished the entire distance until the year 1837. Trains run every half-hour during the summer ; and on Sundays every quarter of an hour : and the price charged for the whole distance of seven miles is extremely moderate — first class, Is.; and second class (in which most persons ride upon this railroad), 8d. ; third class, 6d.

    There is also an atmospheric Railway, of 2 miles, from Kingstown to Dalkey : it is in full work.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 16

19. Gentry mansions surrounding Bray

    Bray · town · Wicklow

    The neighbourhood of Bray was thickly covered with mansions of the resident gentry, including Kilruddery House (Earl of Meath), Hollybrook (Sir George Hodson), Old Connaught (Lord Plunkett), Cork Abbey (Colonel Wingfield), St. Valory (Judge Crampton), and Ravenswell Brae (Isaac Weld).

    Read the passage

    The immediate neighbourhood of Bray is thickly covered with the mansions of the resident gentry, and the villas to which the citizens, whose means admit of it, retire in the summer season. Amongst the former are Kilruddery House, the residence of the Earl of Meath, Hollybrook (Sir George Hodson, Bart.), Old Connaught (Lord Plunkett), Cork Abbey (Colonel Wingfield), St. Valory (Judge Crampton), and Bavenswell Brae (Isaac Weld, Esq.). Especially, in his drives about Bray, the Tourist will be sure to be brought through the small but beautiful demesne of Hollybrook, the seat of Sir George J. Hodson, Bart. The mansion is in the best style of Tudor architecture, with a terraced front overlooking a small lake, in which are reflected from different points the Great and Little Sugar-loaf Hills, the graceful outlines -of the house, or the fine old evergreens that add peculiar beauty to this little paradise. The drive from the east entrance is through a narrow glen, wooded with venerable oaks and other

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 111

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Bray, you are moving through a neighbourhood that was thickly covered with the mansions of the resident gentry. Kilruddery House belonged to the Earl of Meath, Hollybrook to Sir George Hodson, Old Connaught to Lord Plunkett, Cork Abbey to Colonel Wingfield, St. Valory to Judge Crampton, and Ravenswell Brae to Isaac Weld. Of these, Hollybrook is the one you are most likely to be brought through. Its mansion is in the best style of Tudor architecture, with a terraced front overlooking a small lake. In that lake are reflected the Great and Little Sugar-loaf Hills, the outlines of the house, and the fine old evergreens. The drive from the east entrance goes through a narrow glen, wooded with venerable oaks.

20. Howth's deserted packet harbour

    Howth · townland · Dublin · 1807

    The harbour at Howth, once the principal landing place for the Dublin packets from Britain, is described as calm but now deserted. It had been constructed at enormous public expense beginning in 1807.

    Read the passage

    LORIOUS is the impression of Ireland conveyed to the eye and mind upon approaching the noble and beautiful Bay op Dublin ! It is, indeed, inexpressibly lovely ; and on entering it after a weary voyage, the heart bounds with 14 enthusiasm at the sight of its capacious bosom, enclosed by huge rocks, encompassed in turn by high and picturesque mountains. To the south, varied into innumerable forms, are the "Wicklow Hills;" but nearer, rising, as it were, out of the surface of old Ocean, is the ever-green island of Dalkey. To the north, a bolder coast is commenced by the "Hill of Howth,"* on a leading pinnacle of which stands the most picturesque of the Irish beacons ; at the other side of the promontory is seen a village, with another lighthouse, a martello tower, an ancient abbey, and a calm, though now deserted, harbour — for so long a period the landing-place upon Irish ground.f

    * " The bold and nearly insulated promontory called the Hill of Howth," writes Mr. Petrie, "which forms the north-eastern terminus of the Bay of Dublin, would in itself supply abundant materials for a topographical volume — and a most interesting work it might be made. For the geologist, botanist, and naturalist, it has an abundant store of attractions ; while its various ancient monuments of every class and age, from the regal fortress, the sepulchral cairn, and the cromleac of Pagan times, to the early Christian oratory, the abbey and the baronial hall of later years, would supply an equally ample stock of materials for the antiquary and the historian."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 12

21. Lough Bray and the Eagle's Nest crag

    near Lough Bray · lake or lakes · Wicklow

    Lough Bray, comprising an upper and lower lake, sits near a mountain summit in a lonely district of the Rathdown barony, walled in on three sides by precipitous hills. A dark bare crag protruding from one side is called the Eagle's Nest.

    Read the passage

    EFORE we proceed onwards, we must direct the Tourist to make a detour to the west ; for in the hills of the barony of Rathdown, are many objects of surpassing interest— among others the source of the Liffey, and the dark Lougii Bray. Lough Bray is situated in the centre of a peculiarly lonely district ; the lake — or more correctly, the lakes, for there are two, the upper and lower, the lower being the larger and more remarkable, and the one to which especial reference is made — is almost circular, near the summit of a mountain; from one side of which protrudes a huge crag, dark and bare, called " the Eagle's Nest." It is, indeed, " walled in " on three sides by lofty and precipitous hills, and is open on the fourth — at the lowest point of which its waters are poured through a narrow opening into the valley

    that the Irish acre contains so much more than the English acre. There are in Ireland three different sized acres, by which land is measured. The English, or statute acre ; the Scotch, or Cunningham acre ; and the Irish, or Plantation acre. The area of each acre depends upon the length of its respective lineal perch.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 76

22. Bray's fishing community hampered by lack of a quay

    Bray · town · Wicklow

    A large number of fishermen lived in the neighbourhood of Bray, but the want of a quay for shelter greatly hindered their livelihood, a problem the author hopes will soon be remedied.

    Read the passage

    Bray is the largest town of the county, and, from its proximity to Dublin, is extensively visited by persons in search either of the benefits of sea-air, or the enjoyment to be derived from beautiful scenery ; and here, in consequence, is " Quin's," one of the most splendid — and also comfortable — hotels in the kingdom. A large number of fishermen live in the neighbourhood of Bray; but unfortunately, the waut of a quay for shelter greatly militates against them — an evil for which we hope a remedy will be ere long provided.

    The immediate neighbourhood of Bray is thickly covered with the mansions of the resident gentry, and the villas to which the citizens, whose means admit of it, retire in the summer season. Amongst the former are Kilruddery House, the residence of the Earl of Meath, Hollybrook (Sir George Hodson, Bart.), Old Connaught (Lord Plunkett), Cork Abbey (Colonel Wingfield), St. Valory (Judge Crampton), and Bavenswell Brae (Isaac Weld, Esq.). Especially, in his drives about Bray, the Tourist will be sure to be brought through the small but beautiful demesne of Hollybrook, the seat of Sir George J. Hodson, Bart. The mansion is in the best style of Tudor architecture, with a terraced front overlooking a small lake, in which are reflected from different points the Great and Little Sugar-loaf Hills, the graceful outlines -of the house, or the fine old evergreens that add peculiar beauty to this little paradise. The drive from the east entrance is through a narrow glen, wooded with venerable oaks and other

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 111

    As the companion tells it

    This is Bray, the largest town in the county, sitting close to Dublin and long a draw for those after sea air and fine scenery. A large number of fishermen lived in the neighbourhood, but they were held back by the want of a quay for shelter, an evil the author hoped would soon be remedied. The town itself boasted one of the finest and most comfortable hotels in the kingdom, known as Quin's, and the surrounding countryside was thick with the mansions and summer villas of the gentry, among them Kilruddery House, the seat of the Earl of Meath, and Hollybrook, the Tudor-style residence of Sir George Hodson, with its terraced front overlooking a small lake that reflected the Great and Little Sugar-loaf Hills.

23. Construction of the Exchange on Cork Hill

    Cork Hill · street · Dublin · 1769–1779

    The Exchange, ranking next in importance to the Bank, was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779 under the direction of Thomas Cooley, situated near the entrance to Dublin Castle on Cork Hill.

    Read the passage

    The Exchange may, perhaps, rank next in importance to the Bank. It is situate near the entrance to " the Castle," and upon the summit of Cork Hill. It was commenced in 1769, and finished in 1779, under the immediate direction of Mr. Thomas Cooley, an artist to whom Dublin is indebted for other fine structures. Its form is nearly a square of one hundred feet, having three fronts of Portland stone, of the Corinthian order, crowned by a dome in the centre of the building. Twelve fluted columns, of the Composite order, thirty-

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on Cork Hill stood the Exchange, near the entrance to Dublin Castle. It ranked next in importance to the Bank, and was commenced in 1769 and finished in 1779 under the direction of Thomas Cooley, an artist to whom Dublin is indebted for other fine structures. It was nearly a square of one hundred feet, with three fronts of Portland stone in the Corinthian order, crowned by a central dome, and twelve fluted Composite columns.

24. Delgany, seat of the La Touche family

    near Delgany · town · Wicklow

    The rich vale of Delgany, extending to the sea, is the property of the La Touche family, whose name had long been synonymous with goodness, as reflected in a family epitaph about riches becoming 'a general blessing.'

    Read the passage

    the walks through it are very varied ; and considerable judgment and skill have been exhibited in so planting and " trimming " — the one being even more necessary than the other where the growth is rapid and luxuriant — as to obtain a new and striking view almost at every step. A mile or two further on, is the rich vale of Delgany, extending to the sea, seen to great perfection from the main road, where it descends into the Glen of the Downs. Delgany is the property of the family La Touche, whose name has been long — and not in this county alone — synonymous with goodness ; for to nearly every branch of it may be applied a passage from the epitaph to one of its members — " Riches in his ■waterfall at AiiADOEE. hands became general blessing."

    The family residence is Belle Yue, standing on the height to the sea-side of the Glen of the Downs, which is part of the beautiful demesne. At the very summit on a projecting rock, crowning this side of the Glen, stands a banqueting house — a striking object from the road beneath, looking like the outworks of some old castle, and commanding a panoramic view of considerable

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 110

    As the companion tells it

    The road is passing through the rich vale of Delgany, extending down to the sea, and it all belongs to the La Touche family. Their name was long synonymous with goodness, not in Wicklow alone, and an epitaph to one of their members says,

25. New carriage road cut through the Devil's Glen

    near Devil's Glen · valley · Wicklow

    A wide carriage road of recent origin was constructed through the Devil's Glen, taking ground partly from the river's bed and partly from the mountain's base, a development the author protests against as damaging to the untouched landscape.

    Read the passage

    very recent origin, against which we may justly enter our protest — a wide carriage road has been constructed all through the glen ; stolen partly from the river's bed, and partly from the mountain's base ! Alas for the sylphs and dryads who have had their dwelling here ! Alas for those who love untouched and untainted nature ! Let us hope that the river, exasperated beyond control, will avenge itself upon the insolent engineer, who sought to restrain a mountain torrent within " licensed bounds." And this result is, indeed, to be looked for ; the waterfall at the head of the glen, that dances so joyously and so " orderly " in summer, must be, in winter, a mighty cataract, full of fury, that no barrier, the work of man, can be expected to withstand.

    Nothing in the county of Wicklow astonished us, or gratified us, so much is the Devil's Glen ; with its roaring river, its huge precipices, its circuitous :^jggg paths, and the noble and grace-

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 109

26. Remains of Glencree Barrack on the Military Road

    near Glencree · valley · Wicklow

    On the Military Road near the Valley of Glencree, a grey pile of ruins is described as all that remains of Glencree Barrack, situated below the road near the mountain tarn of Lough Bray.

    Read the passage

    Once more back to Brav, pass your eye over Enniskerry until it rest at the head of the Valley of Glencree, on the "Military Road," crossing to the left under that crater-looking hollow near the summit, in which lies the mountain tarn called Lough Bray. That grey pile under the road is all that remains of Glencree Barrack ; and that Swiss cottage on the bank of Lough Bray is the mountain lodge of Sir Philip Crampton, Bart. Prom this the Military road lies over a vast tract of mountain, at an elevation above the sea of two or three thousand feet, and for some twelve miles there is neither tree nor enclosure — the only trace of a human hand being the well-made road. About two miles beyond Lough Bray it crosses the first gathering of the mountain streams that here take the name of " the Liffey." Shortly after, a narrow road crosses our path, that to the right leading to Blessington and that to the left to Luggela. Ascending the heights west of Luggela and Lough Dan, the Military road is carried on to Glenmacanass, where one of those streams peculiar to such districts rushes over the steep rocky declivity that abruptly terminates this secluded dell. Descending into the glen, the road following the stream reaches Lara Barrack, where crossing the Roundwood route it ascends through the woods of Derrybawn, between Glendalough and Glenmalure ; it descends into the latter, where we find the third of the Barracks on the line ; and now on the banks of the Avonbeg we follow its course until again we are at the Meeting of the Waters.

    These constitute the leading roads in which the pleasure Tourist is interested, but another glance will convince him that the deviations from these may be multiplied in an almost endless variety ; information concerning them should be sought for, and will be obtained, at the Hotels.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 8

27. Ruins of 'Black Thorn's Building' near Tinahely

    Tinahely · town · Wicklow

    Near Tinahely stand the ruins of a castle called the 'cosha,' frequently mentioned by Lord Strafford in his letters, which the local peasantry called 'Black Thorn's building.'

    Read the passage

    * Tinahinch lies in a hollow, on the margin of the river; it is classic ground; for here one of Ireland's true patriots — a man who loved his country — composed, and, it is said, continuallyrecited, the eloquent speeches that have made his name immortal. The name of another great statesman is intimately associated with the County of Wicklow — the famous and unfortunate Lord Strafford. The great wood of Shilelagh, which covered the southern portion of the county, was much cut down hy that nohieman, who wrested it from the original proprietors, the O'Byrnes — hecause, "they were unable to produce any written titles to their lands" — when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. Some of the oak he gave to roof St. Patrick's Cathedral. Westminster Hall was, it is said, roofed from the same source. Fynes Moryson alludes to " a commonly received opinion that the Irish wood transported for building is free of spiders and their webs." Near Tinehely are the ruins of a castle — the " cosha," so often alluded to by Lord Strafford in his letters; which the peasantry call "Black Thorn's building." The extensive forests of Shilelagh have dwindled to a few small plantations of oak. Mr. Hayes of Avondale, who published, in 1794, " A Practical Treatise on Planting," states : " It is generally understood that a sale was made of some of the finest timber of Shillelah, which remained in Charles the Second's time, into Holland, for the use of the Stadthouse, and other buildings constructed on piles driven close together, to the number of several thousand." After 1693, however, the woods must have been considerably destroyed, for in that year iron forges and furnaces were introduced into Wicklow, by a company who had the right to cut whatever suited their purpose during the term of their contract, which lasted twenty years. From a paper in the hand-writing of Thomas, Marquis of Rockingham, it appears that, in 1731, there were standing in that part of Shilelagh called the Deer Park 2,150 oak-trees: of these, in 1737, there remained 1,540. In 1780, 38 only of the old reserves were in existence. Their size may be estimated from this fact; the last which Mr. Hayes remembers, when felled, " produced, at three shillings per foot, £27 Is. 8d." In his time there remained one entire tree — " about ten feet round at five feet from the ground, straight as a pine for sixty feet ; and about six feet round at that height." He speaks, also, of a short trunk, which measured twenty-one feet round. The Earl Fitzwilliam, the descendant of the Earl of Strafford, now owns the district of Shilelagh, and has, besides, an immense property in the county of Wicklow.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 84

28. Stanihurst on the founding of Dublin by sea-king Avellanus

    Dublin · city · Dublin

    The text credits the ancient sea-king Avellanus with wisely selecting Dublin's site, quoting old Stanihurst's praise of the location as pleasant, wholesome, and well-supplied with hills, plains, fresh water and sea access.

    Read the passage

    F the world, few cities — and, perhaps, none in Great Britain — are so auspiciously situated as the city of Dublin. The ocean rolls its waves within ten miles of the quays ; the Bay is at once safe, commodious, and magnificent, with every variety of coast, from the soft beach of sand to the rough sea promontory, from the undulating slope to the terrific rock; and several lighthouses guide the vessels into harbour. On one side is the rich pasture-land of Meath ; on the other are the mountains and valleys of Wicklow. The splendid range of Wicklow Mountains can be seen from nearly the centre of the city. A noble river flows through it. Breezes from the ocean and the hills both contribute to keep it healthy ; and scenery of surpassing beauty is within an hour's walk of its crowded streets. But no description of Dublin can so aptly and pithily characterise it as the few quaint lines of old Stamhurst, who says, in tracing its origin to the sea-king Avellanus, and giving him credit for wisdom in selecting so advantageous a site : — " The seat of this city is of all sides pleasant, comfortable, and wholesome : if you would traverse hills, they are not far off; if champaign ground, it lieth of all parts; if you be delighted with fresh water, the famous river called the Liffey runneth fast by ; if you will take a view of the sea, it is at hand."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    Dublin sits between rich pasture and mountain, with the ocean close by and the Liffey running through it. The old writer Stanihurst traced the city's founding to a sea-king called Avellanus, and gave him credit for the wisdom of choosing so good a site. In Stanihurst's own words, the seat of this city is of all sides pleasant, comfortable, and wholesome. If you would traverse hills, they are not far off. If champaign ground, it lieth of all parts. If you be delighted with fresh water, the famous river called the Liffey runneth fast by. If you will take a view of the sea, it is at hand. The bay within ten miles of the quays is safe and commodious, with every variety of coast from soft sand to terrific rock, and several lighthouses guiding vessels into harbour. On one side lies the rich pasture-land of Meath, on the other the mountains and valleys of Wicklow, whose splendid range can be seen from nearly the centre of the city. Breezes from both ocean and hills keep it healthy, and scenery of surpassing beauty lies within an hour's walk of its crowded streets.

29. The paved street of ancient Glendalough

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    Dr. Ledwich described the only surviving street of the ancient city as the road leading from the market place into the county of Kildare, paved with stones placed edgewise and ten feet in breadth, though the authors found the stones had since vanished.

    Read the passage

    acts, and sharers in his merits ; and, with him, to encounter every severity of climate and condition. " This influence extended even to Britain, and induced St. Mochuorog to convey himself hither, who fixed his residence in a cell on the east side of Glendalough, where a city soon sprung up, and a seminary was founded, from whence were sent forth many saints and exemplary men, whose sanctity and learning diffused around the Western world that universal light of letters and religion, which, in the earlier ages, shone so resplendent throughout this remote and at that time tranquil isle, and were almost exclusively confined to it." The See of Glendalough was united with that of Dublin in the reign of King John ; but the mandate of the sovereign was disputed by the O'Tooles, in whose territory it stood ; and although the territories were estranged, they continued to fill the See for a long period afterwards — the last of the nominal prelates, Friar Dennis White, surrendering the possession in 1497. Long before that period, b owe ver, the city had vastly declined in importance; having become— we quote from Ware — " waste and desolate, a den and nest for thieves and robbers ; so that more murders are committed in that valley than in any other place in Ireland, occasioned by the vast desert solitude thereof." " From what can now be discovered of the ancient city," writes Dr. Ledwich, " by its walls above, and foundations below the surface of the earth, it probably extended from the Rhefeart church to the Ivy church, on both sides of the river. The only street appearing, is the road leading from the market place into the county of Kildare; it is in good preservation, being paved with stones placed edgewise, and ten feet in breadth." These stones have now all vanished — at least we looked for them in vain ; except adjacent to the entrance. * Upon this subject we quote Dr. Ledwich. " The number seven was mystical and sacred,

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 92

30. Ancient abbey and church ruins at Clondalkin

    near Clondalkin · town · Dublin

    Immediately adjoining the round tower at Clondalkin are the ruins of an ancient church, and it is certain that an abbey was founded here at a very early period.

    Read the passage

    many tons in weight were cast to the distance of five or six fields." Immediately adjoining the round tower are, as usual, the ruins of an ancient church; and it is certain that an abbey was founded here at a very early period.

    ROUND TOWER AT CLONDALKIN.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Clondalkin, the round tower stands with the ruins of an ancient church right beside it. An abbey was founded here at a very early period, though little else is recorded about it.

31. Ancient church remains near Kingstown with unusual east-end porch

    Kingstown · townland · Dublin

    A very small ancient church near Kingstown, built of rough pebbles and flint fragments, shows evidence of great antiquity. Unusually, its porch and bell-tower are located at the east end, with a vaulted semicircular arch made of calpe stone.

    Read the passage

    The church was very small, about twelve feet by twenty-four in the interior ; the walls, composed of rough pebbles and fragments of flint, give evidence of the most remote antiquity. There are no traces of windows ; and a great peculiarity in its structure is, that the porch and bell-tower are at the east end ; this porch is vaulted — the arch (semicircular) is composed of squared blocks of that description of stone called calpe, which is said to be almost peculiar to the district of Dublin, and must have been brought from the main-land — the stones are regularly arranged and well cemented*

    ETURNING to the Bay, and leaving to the left the pretty

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 15

32. Belle Vue and the banqueting house above the Glen of the Downs

    near Glen of the Downs · valley · Wicklow

    Belle Vue, the La Touche family residence, stands above the Glen of the Downs, with a banqueting house on a projecting rock at the summit resembling the outworks of an old castle and commanding a panoramic view.

    Read the passage

    The family residence is Belle Yue, standing on the height to the sea-side of the Glen of the Downs, which is part of the beautiful demesne. At the very summit on a projecting rock, crowning this side of the Glen, stands a banqueting house — a striking object from the road beneath, looking like the outworks of some old castle, and commanding a panoramic view of considerable

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 110

    As the companion tells it

    As the road carries you through the Glen of the Downs, Belle Vue stands on the height to the sea-side of the glen, part of the La Touche family's beautiful demesne. At the very summit on a projecting rock sits a banqueting house, a striking object from the road beneath, looking like the outworks of some old castle, commanding a panoramic view.

33. Sir Philip Crampton's mountain lodge at Lough Bray

    near Lough Bray · lake or lakes · Wicklow

    A Swiss-style cottage on the bank of Lough Bray is identified as the mountain lodge belonging to Sir Philip Crampton, Bart., situated along the Military Road route through the Wicklow mountains.

    Read the passage

    Once more back to Brav, pass your eye over Enniskerry until it rest at the head of the Valley of Glencree, on the "Military Road," crossing to the left under that crater-looking hollow near the summit, in which lies the mountain tarn called Lough Bray. That grey pile under the road is all that remains of Glencree Barrack ; and that Swiss cottage on the bank of Lough Bray is the mountain lodge of Sir Philip Crampton, Bart. Prom this the Military road lies over a vast tract of mountain, at an elevation above the sea of two or three thousand feet, and for some twelve miles there is neither tree nor enclosure — the only trace of a human hand being the well-made road. About two miles beyond Lough Bray it crosses the first gathering of the mountain streams that here take the name of " the Liffey." Shortly after, a narrow road crosses our path, that to the right leading to Blessington and that to the left to Luggela. Ascending the heights west of Luggela and Lough Dan, the Military road is carried on to Glenmacanass, where one of those streams peculiar to such districts rushes over the steep rocky declivity that abruptly terminates this secluded dell. Descending into the glen, the road following the stream reaches Lara Barrack, where crossing the Roundwood route it ascends through the woods of Derrybawn, between Glendalough and Glenmalure ; it descends into the latter, where we find the third of the Barracks on the line ; and now on the banks of the Avonbeg we follow its course until again we are at the Meeting of the Waters.

    These constitute the leading roads in which the pleasure Tourist is interested, but another glance will convince him that the deviations from these may be multiplied in an almost endless variety ; information concerning them should be sought for, and will be obtained, at the Hotels.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 8

34. The Ruined Barrack of Laragh

    Laragh · town · Wicklow

    The deserted and half-ruined barrack of Laragh stands amid an arid common, its broken walls and desolate aspect matching the surrounding landscape, marking the approach to Glendalough.

    Read the passage

    AS SING the deserted, and half-ruined, barrack of Laragh — built in the midst of an arid common with which its broken walls and desolate aspect are in keeping — we cross a small but picturesque bridge, and enter a narrow road that leads, between hills, to the " dark valley," in which are the longfamed and far-famed ruins of the "seven churches of Glendalough;" to quote an expression of Sir Walter Scott, "the inexpressibly singular scene of Irish antiquities."* The Round Tower first takes the eye ; and, as we advance, one after another, the several points of interest come in sight. It is impossible to imagine aught in Nature more awfully grand than the lake, —

    " Whose gloomy shore Skylark never warbles o'er," —

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Laragh in Wicklow, there stands a deserted and half-ruined barrack, built in the midst of an arid common, its broken walls and desolate aspect in keeping with the surrounding landscape. It marks the approach to Glendalough. Crossing a small but picturesque bridge, the road narrows between hills into what is called the dark valley, where the far-famed ruins of the seven churches of Glendalough await. Sir Walter Scott called it, in his words, "the inexpressibly singular scene of Irish antiquities." The Round Tower is the first to take the eye, and as you advance, one after another the several points of interest come into sight.

35. Ruins of 'the Seven Churches' at Glendalough

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    At the entrance of a gloomy valley near Lara Barrack stand the ruins known as 'the Seven Churches', located along the road following the river Avonmore down the Vale of Clara.

    Read the passage

    Church and through Annamoe, we reach Lara Barrack, at the entrance of the gloomy valley, in which stand the ruins of "the Seven Churches." The road here keeps the banks of the river Avonmore down the Yale of Clara ; and passing through Rathdrum crossing the mail-coach line leads through Avondale, until entering the Vale of Avoca at " the Meeting of the Waters," we are again on the coach line of road.

    Once more back to Brav, pass your eye over Enniskerry until it rest at the head of the Valley of Glencree, on the "Military Road," crossing to the left under that crater-looking hollow near the summit, in which lies the mountain tarn called Lough Bray. That grey pile under the road is all that remains of Glencree Barrack ; and that Swiss cottage on the bank of Lough Bray is the mountain lodge of Sir Philip Crampton, Bart. Prom this the Military road lies over a vast tract of mountain, at an elevation above the sea of two or three thousand feet, and for some twelve miles there is neither tree nor enclosure — the only trace of a human hand being the well-made road. About two miles beyond Lough Bray it crosses the first gathering of the mountain streams that here take the name of " the Liffey." Shortly after, a narrow road crosses our path, that to the right leading to Blessington and that to the left to Luggela. Ascending the heights west of Luggela and Lough Dan, the Military road is carried on to Glenmacanass, where one of those streams peculiar to such districts rushes over the steep rocky declivity that abruptly terminates this secluded dell. Descending into the glen, the road following the stream reaches Lara Barrack, where crossing the Roundwood route it ascends through the woods of Derrybawn, between Glendalough and Glenmalure ; it descends into the latter, where we find the third of the Barracks on the line ; and now on the banks of the Avonbeg we follow its course until again we are at the Meeting of the Waters.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 8

36. Shelton Abbey and the Howard family mausoleum at Kilbride

    Kilbride · townland · Wicklow

    Near the old church of Kilbride stands a lofty pyramid serving as the Howard family mausoleum, passed en route to Shelton Abbey demesne.

    Read the passage

    To visit Shelton Abbey, we must cross the Avoca, at Arklow, and after passing the old church of Kilbride to the left, where stands a lofty pyramid, the Howard family mausoleum, we enter the plantations, and are permitted a drive of three miles through the demesne, passing near the handsome abbey mansion of the noble proprietor, of which we had but a glimpse on our way down on the opposite side of the river. The pleasure-grounds are delightfully circumstanced and most tastefully cultivated. On leaving the demesne by the west gate, we are again on the public road for less than half a mile until we enter the woods and demesne of Ballyarthur, the residence of E. S. Bayley, Esq. Here are some points from which the finest views of the Vale of Avoca are to be obtained; and first, through the plantations near the mansion, we pass into

    * The castle was built and the abbey founded by Theobald Fitzwalter, fourth Lord Butler of Ireland. The castle repeatedly changed masters — according as the Irish or English had sufficient strength to take and retain it. It was "ruinated " by Oliver Cromwell, in 1649.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 104

37. St. Nessan's Church ruin on Ireland's Eye

    Ireland's Eye · townland · Dublin

    Ireland's Eye, a small island near Howth, contains the ruin of an ancient church dedicated to St. Nessan in its centre. The remote antiquity of the church is evident from its construction of rough pebbles and flint fragments.

    Read the passage

    "Ireland's Eye" is a small island, about a mile from the northern shore of Howth ; in the centre of which is the ruin of a church dedicated to St. Nessan.

    ST. NiibSAN S CHURCH.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 14

38. The Arigna mines and their rich iron ore

    near Arigna · population centre · Roscommon · 1838

    The Arigna mines, situated close to Lough Allen and the Shannon, produce iron ore containing 40 per cent metal, compared to only 28 per cent in Staffordshire ores, allowing easy transport of produce across the island.

    Read the passage

    Iron is also abundant in Ireland; and the position of the iron-fields is particularly felicitous. In other places the various requisites for extracting the iron from the ore must be brought from a distance : in Ireland they are situated nearly together. Thus the coal and iron fields lie in close juxtaposition. Water is close by, either as a power or means of transport. Bogs are also at hand, and capable of furnishing any quantity of the best charcoal for the purpose of smelting ; and so is limestone, which is indispensable, and in England must be often procured with difficulty. Let us instance the Arigna mines. Their ore contains 40 per cent, of metal, whilst the Staffordshire ores contain only 28 per cent. They are situated close to Lough Allen and the Shannon. Thus their produce can be transported with ease to any part of the island ; and the Railroad Commissioners in 1838 estimate the coal-fields by which these mines are surrounded at 20,000 acres, equal to 20 million tons of coal. The richest ore

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 106

39. The Hermitage waterfall at Altadore

    Altidore Demesne · townland · Wicklow

    Within a mile and a half of Newtown-Mount-Kennedy, in the demesne of Altadore, lies a small glen called 'the Hermitage,' notable for one of the county's magnificent waterfalls and grounds laid out with exceeding taste.

    Read the passage

    EWTOWN-MOUNT-KENNEDY, a large village, distant twenty -one miles from Dublin, is also surrounded by beautiful scenery ; within a mile and a half of it, in the demesne of Altadore, is a small glen called " the Hermitage," for which nature has done much, and art more. And here is another of the magnificent waterfalls for which the county is so famous. It is but one of many attractions in this delicious spot ; the grounds have been laid out with exceeding taste ;

    the walks through it are very varied ; and considerable judgment and skill have been exhibited in so planting and " trimming " — the one being even more necessary than the other where the growth is rapid and luxuriant — as to obtain a new and striking view almost at every step. A mile or two further on, is the rich vale of Delgany, extending to the sea, seen to great perfection from the main road, where it descends into the Glen of the Downs. Delgany is the property of the family La Touche, whose name has been long — and not in this county alone — synonymous with goodness ; for to nearly every branch of it may be applied a passage from the epitaph to one of its members — " Riches in his ■waterfall at AiiADOEE. hands became general blessing."

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 110

40. Copper mines near Skibbereen and Skull

    Skibbereen · town · Cork

    Copper mines existed at Berehaven in Bantry Bay and at Skull near Cape Clear, the latter known chiefly for its proximity to Skibbereen. Irish copper ore sold in Swansea averaged over 10,000 tons yearly.

    Read the passage

    The copper-mines are distributed in different localities, principally in Wicklow and Waterford ; and in the county of Cork, at Berehaven in Bantry Bay ; and at Skull not far from Cape Clear ; but better known from its proximity to illfated Skibbereen* The quantity of Irish copper ore sold in Swansea for some years past averages something more than 10,000 tons each year, at an annual value of about 70,000/.

    But the lead-mines of Ireland are of more value. The ore is sometimes so rich in silver as to be called silver-lead ore. The total quantity of silver obtained by the Mining Company of Ireland in 185.1 was 3,860 oz., producing upwards of 1,000/., and the richest silver-lead ore is that from the Kilbricken mine, which produces about 120 oz. of silver to the ton of lead. Lead ore is scattered all over the island ; but in small quantities. The quantity of metal smelted by the Mining Company of Ireland at Ballycorus in 1851 was 674 tons, which produced 460 tons of lead.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 107

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Skibbereen, the old record calls this "ill fated Skibbereen." The copper mines of county Cork are found at Berehaven in Bantry Bay, and at Skull, not far from Cape Clear. But Skull is better known from its proximity to Skibbereen. The copper mines are distributed in different localities, principally in Wicklow and Waterford, and also here in county Cork at Berehaven and at Skull. The quantity of Irish copper ore sold in Swansea for some years past averages something more than 10,000 tons each year, at an annual value of about 70,000 pounds. That ore comes from these coastal workings, and from the mines of Wicklow and Waterford, and it is sent for sale in Swansea.

41. Lead smelting at Ballycorus

    near Ballycorus · street · Dublin · 1851

    The Mining Company of Ireland smelted 674 tons of ore at Ballycorus in 1851, producing 460 tons of lead. The company was working thirteen mines across the country at the time.

    Read the passage

    But the lead-mines of Ireland are of more value. The ore is sometimes so rich in silver as to be called silver-lead ore. The total quantity of silver obtained by the Mining Company of Ireland in 185.1 was 3,860 oz., producing upwards of 1,000/., and the richest silver-lead ore is that from the Kilbricken mine, which produces about 120 oz. of silver to the ton of lead. Lead ore is scattered all over the island ; but in small quantities. The quantity of metal smelted by the Mining Company of Ireland at Ballycorus in 1851 was 674 tons, which produced 460 tons of lead.

    The Mining Company of Ireland are now working no less than thirteen mines in this country, and with what success may be estimated from the quotation of their shares in the money market (April 1853) : —

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall

42. Regional Distribution of the Constabulary Force

    Tipperary · town · Tipperary · 1853

    The author compares constabulary numbers across counties to gauge relative tranquility, finding the north generally more peaceful than the south except for Kerry. Specific ratios of police to population and area are given for Antrim, Londonderry, Kerry, Louth, Queen's County, Cork, and Tipperary.

    Read the passage

    The annual salaries are, to the Inspector-General, 1300/., Deputy Inspector General, 1200/., second ditto, 800/., Provincial Inspectors each 500/., County Inspectors (first, second, aud third rate) averaging 260/. each ; sub-inspectors (first, second, and third rate) averaging 130/. each ; head constables, first rate, 60/. second rate 50/. ; mounted constable, 32/. 7s. ; constable, 32/. 7s. ; subconstable, first rate, 27/. 14s. ; second rate, 24/. There are, however, sundry allowances, the principal of which are, "while attending assizes or quarter sessions, while marching from one county to another; or on any duty causing a necessary absence from home during the night." There is on an average one policeman (including head constables) to every 1000 of the population throughout Ireland, including the cities and towns, with the exception of Dublin, where a distinct force is employed ; and one policeman (including also head constables) for every four square miles throughout the country. "We were curious to ascertain, indirectly, the condition of the various counties of Ireland, as exhibited by the amount of the force stationed in each, and looked with some interest through the list that gave its distribution ; the result was illustrative of the comparative tranquillity of the north as compared with that of the south — in all the counties except the southern county of Kerry. Thus, in Antrim county there is one policeman to every 1730 inhabitants and every six square miles ; in Londonderry county, one to every 2344 inhabitants and every 8f square miles ; in Kerry, one to every 1599 inhabitants and every 10 square miles; in Louth, one to every 272 inhabitants and every If- square miles ; in the Queen's county, one to every 430 inhabitants and every 1T^- square miles ; in Cork county, one to every 1178 inhabitants and every 4f square miles ; and in Tipperary county (strongly contrasting the peace of one district of it with the other), in the northern

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 34

43. The Seven Churches of Glendalough

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    The ruins are stated by authorities to consist of the Priory, the Cathedral, St. Kevin's kitchen, Teampull-na-skellig, Our Lady's church, the Rhefeart church, and the Ivy church, making the mystical number of seven.

    Read the passage

    The ruins are stated by "the authorities" to consist of the Priory, the Cathedral, St. Kevin's kitchen, " Teampull-na-skellig," Our Lady's church, the Rhefeart church, and the Ivy church, making the mystical number of seven ; the other sacred edifices "appearing to be later constructions."*

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 92

44. Walker's Rock Viewpoint near Enniskerry

    Enniskerry · town · Wicklow

    A rock known as Walker's Rock, about two miles from Enniskerry on the old road, offers an extensive view overlooking the valley containing Powerscourt and the Dargle, with the waterfall visible to advantage.

    Read the passage

    * The only object worth pointing out to the traveller (on this road) is a rock, called " Walker's Rock," about two miles from Enniskerry — on the old road — from which there is another beautiful and extensive view; less grand but perhaps more interesting than that we have been describing; for the leading objects of attraction are closer, and more distinctly seen. The tourist should on no account pass this rock without ascending it. It overlooks the whole of the valley in which lie Powerscourt and the Dargle; and the waterfall is here seen to great advantage. The Sugar-loaf from this point resembles the peaked cap of the Covenanters.

    120 VALLEY OF CLOHOGUE.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 88

45. Dublin Metropolitan Police Force

    Dublin · city · Dublin · 1850

    The Dublin Metropolitan Police is described as a distinct force from the general Irish constabulary, with its own structure of superintendents, inspectors, sergeants and constables. Its annual expenses and funding sources are detailed for 1850.

    Read the passage

    The Dublin Metropolitan Police consists of 7 Superintendents, 24 Inspectors, 100 Sergeants, 1,000 Constables, and about 50 Candidates in training; total, 1,181. The annual expense of the force of the Divisional Police Officers in 1850, was 71,900/. The income arises from 21,500/., police-rate; 5,650/. from carriage-tax, licences, &c; 3,876/. 19s. from pawnbroker's licences; 3,300/. from fees, fines, &c. ; and 273/. from incidental sources, with a parliamentary grant of 35,500/. The salaries of the two Commissioners of Police, 840/. each, are paid out of the consolidated fund, and are not a charge upon the police establishment.*

    * The Dublin Constabulary is under the command of Colonel Brown (a brother of Mrs. Hemans), a distinguished officer, ■who saw much service during the Peninsular War.

    Internet Archive dublinwicklow00hall, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Dublin, this was a city with its own police force, separate from the Irish constabulary. In 1850 the Dublin Metropolitan Police had 7 superintendents, 24 inspectors, 100 sergeants, and 1,000 constables, with about 50 candidates in training, 1,181 in total. The annual expense that year was 71,900 pounds, funded by a police-rate, carriage taxes, pawnbroker's licences, fines, and a parliamentary grant of 35,500 pounds. Two commissioners earned 840 pounds each, paid from the consolidated fund rather than the police budget.