Guide to Galway, Connemara and the West of Ireland

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Castlebar Races, 1798 rebellion

   Castlebar · town · Mayo · 1798

   In the 1798 rebellion, Castlebar was the site of an engagement between a small French force and about 1000 English militia, who were badly equipped. The encounter was facetiously known as the 'Castlebar Races'; a slab in the church commemorates the Fraser Highlanders who fell.

   Read the passage

   Castlebar {Hotels : (I.A.C., C.) Imperial ; Read's), the county town. Station about 1 mile from the town. In the rebellion of 1798 Castlebar gained notoriety from an engagement between a small French force and a party of English soldiers. The contending parties were nearly equal in number, being about 1000 strong each. The English were but badly provided with ammunition, and, with the exception of a party of the Eraser Fencibles, were raw militia. The encounter is yet facetiously alluded to as the '' Castlebar Races." A slab to the memory of the Eraser Highlanders who fell in the action was erected in the church by Colonel Eraser.

   In Castlebar was executed in 1786 the notorious George Robert Fitzgerald, better known as "Fighting Fitzgerald." His residence was at Turlough, about 4 miles east of Castlebar, where his remains rest among some ruins in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower. From the railway we obtain a good view of Croagli Patrick before reaching Westport (p. 230).

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 44

   As the companion tells it

   As the road brings you into Castlebar, the county town of Mayo, you are passing through a place that gained notoriety in the rebellion of 1798. A small French force met a party of English soldiers, and the contending parties were nearly equal in number, about 1000 strong each. The English were badly provided with ammunition, and with the exception of the Fraser Fencibles, were raw militia. The encounter is yet facetiously alluded to as the Castlebar Races. A slab in the church, erected by Colonel Fraser, remembers the Fraser Highlanders who fell in the action. In 1786, this town saw the execution of George Robert Fitzgerald, better known as Fighting Fitzgerald. His residence was at Turlough, about 4 miles east, where his remains rest among some ruins in the demesne, overlooked by an ancient round tower.

2. French invasion at Killala Bay, 1798

   near Killala Bay · bay · Mayo · 1798

   Killala Bay was the rendezvous of French invaders in 1798 under General Humbert, who landed with a thousand men and surprised the garrison of only forty men at Killala. The French advanced and entered Ballina, driving out loyalists who retreated to Foxford, and retained possession for three weeks.

   Read the passage

   There is salmon and trout fishing on Loch Conn (several hotels at Crossmolina), about 6 miles from Ballina. The bay is famous as the rendezvous of the French invaders in 1798. The garrison of Killala, only forty men, was surprised by the French general, Humbert, who landed with a thousand men. Next day a detachment of the French were driven in by an English piquet, who, advancing too far, were ambuscaded, and suffered considerable loss. Towards night the French advancing, entered Ballina, and drove out the loyalists, who retreated to Foxford. The enemy retained possession for three weeks, when they were attacked by General Trench, and ultimately di'iven back to their ships.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 45

3. Bishop's Island famine legend near Kilkee

   near Bishop's Island · townland · Clare

   Bishop's Island near Kilkee has an early oratory and a legend of a bishop who fled the famine-stricken mainland to feast on his private island store. When the famine ended and he sought to return, the sea had widened the chasm, trapping him on the island.

   Read the passage

   The latter has an early oratory ; and legend places here a bishop, who fled from the famine-stricken mainland to feast on his private island store. When, however, the famine and his own fare were alike at an end, and this fasting philanthropist sought to return, the raging sea had widened the chasm and chained him to his solitary fate. In the bay, behind, the

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 16

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Bishop's Island, near Kilkee, with an early oratory on it. The legend tells of a bishop who fled the famine-stricken mainland to feast on his private island store. When the famine ended and he sought to return, the raging sea had widened the chasm and chained him to his solitary fate.

4. Dun Aengus: A prehistoric fort of Western Europe

   near Dun Aengus · street · Galway

   Dun Aengus is a prehistoric fort on Inishmore, located 300 feet above the sea and considered one of the finest in Western Europe. The fort is associated with the Firbolg hero Aengus and features a defensive cheval de frise.

   Read the passage

   Dun Aengus, nearly 300 feet above the sea, "the central point of interest . . . and one of the finest prehistoric forts of Western Europe." These duns or forts, writes Miss Stokes, are associated wdth the adventures of Aengus, Conor, and "heroes of the Firbolg race. They may have been in existence two centuries or more before the introduction of Christianity." They were built without mortar ; and the same writer concludes that the upright jointings in the walls point to "the work having been portioned out in lots to the labourers." The dun here may once have had four ramparts, of which three are now standing ; and in the outer labyrinth of stones — which rival even those on the summits of Scafell or Glyder-Fach- — we have a cheval defrise capable of breaking up most besieging lines. In the doorway still remaining, with horizontal lintel and inclined sides, we see the original type afterwards copied by the monks ; and inside one wall is the interior passage so often found in these early forts {e.g. Dunbeg, Fahan).

   About one mile north-west of this is another fine fort called Dun Onaght ; and near it is Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect jof the "beehive" cells, " formed in a manner universally adopted by early races in all periods of the history of man and in various portions of the globe, where stone was available, before the knowledge of the principle of the arch had reached them. The

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 26

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Dun Aengus, you're near what's been called one of the finest prehistoric forts in Western Europe, standing nearly 300 feet above the sea. It's linked to the adventures of Aengus and the heroes of the Firbolg race, and may have stood for two centuries or more before Christianity came. The walls were built without mortar, and the upright jointings suggest, as one writer put it, "the work having been portioned out in lots to the labourers." There may once have been four ramparts, with three still standing, and outside them lies a cheval de frise among a labyrinth of stones, built to break up besieging lines. The remaining doorway, with its horizontal lintel and inclined sides, shows the original type later copied by the monks, and inside one wall runs an interior passage of the kind found in other early forts. About a mile north-west is another fort called Dun Onaght, and near it stands Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect of the beehive cells, built before anyone in these parts knew the principle of the arch.

5. Knock church and healing miracles

   Knock · townland · Galway · 1879–1912

   The church at Knock attracted large crowds of pilgrims some years before 1912 due to reported miracles of healing and supernatural visions. Crutches and other relics remain at the church, which continues to be visited by devout Roman Catholics.

   Read the passage

   Ballyhaunis (43f miles) is the best station from which to visit the church of Knock (8 miles by hired car), where the miracles of healing and supernatural visions attracted large crowds of pilgrims some years ago. Crutches and other relics may be seen at the church, which is still visited by many devout Roman Catholics.

   At Claremorris (46i miles) (several small hotels) is an important junction, whence a line goes north to Sligo and south to Tuam, see page 205. For Cong take rail to Ballinrobe, and hence it is 7 miles by road.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 44

6. Shipwreck of the Intrivsk near Kilkee

   Kilkee · town · Clare · 1835

   A ship named Intrivsk perished in 1835 near Kilkee amid scenes of great distress. A tradition recorded that a seagull hovered over the sinking ship and drowning women, then flew ashore and dropped a lady's glove among the people on the cliff.

   Read the passage

   Intrivsk perished in 1S35, amid scenes of great distress. Above the sinking ship and drowning women a seagnll was seen to hover ; and soon after the same bird turned shoreward and dropped among the people on the cliff a lady's glove.

   The Cave of Kilkee is about 2 miles from the town, and is best visited by boat from the harbour, a fine view being in this way obtained of the cliff scenery along the shore. The arched entrance to the cave is about 60 feet in height. Our attention is at once attracted by the numerous jutting rocks, the stalactites depending from the roof, and the *' variety of rich metallic tinges from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water." As we proceed into the cave it gradually diminishes in height.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 17

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up through Kilkee now. In 1835 a ship called the Intrivsk perished near here amid scenes of great distress. As the ship sank and women drowned, people on the cliff watched a seagull hover above the wreck. Then the bird turned shoreward and dropped a lady's glove among the watchers. The story has stayed with the town ever since.

7. Strafford's council at Portumna Castle

   Portumna · town · Galway

   A council presided over by the Earl of Strafford convened at Portumna Castle to establish the Crown's claim to forfeited estates in Connaught. The members refused to admit the royal claims and were sent to Dublin as prisoners under escort of the sheriff.

   Read the passage

   Portumna (Inn) is in a somewhat decayed condition, and possesses the ruins of a monastery and the remains of an ancient castle. The monastery, which belonged to the Dominican friars, was founded on the site of a very ancient Cistercian chapel dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. The Dominicans were confirmed in their possession by a bull of Pope Martin Y. dated 8th October 1426. The walls are comparatively entire. The council, presided over by the Earl of Strafford, convened for the purpose of establishing His Majesty's claim to the forfeited estates in Connaught, held its sitting in Portumna Castle, but the members having refused to admit the royal claims were sent to Dublin as prisoners under escort of the sheriff.

   A brief view of the "Abandoned Railway" may be had on the east (right) bank just after leaving Portumna Bridge. The end of the deep cutting is visible for a moment. This twelvemile line was laid down between Portumna and Parsonstown, but owing to a dispute between the Company and the Board of Works it was abandoned. The country-folk ripped up the rails and sleepers. A motor bus runs twice a day each way between Portumna and Ballyquirk.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 20

8. Battle of Aughrim, 1691

   Aughrim · parish · Galway · 1691

   Five miles from Ballinasloe at Aughrim, the forces of William III under De Ginckell defeated those of James II under St. Ruth on July 12, 1691. St. Ruth was slain and buried on the spot marked by St. Ruth's Bush; the battle is commemorated annually by Orangemen on 'The Twelfth.'

   Read the passage

   Five miles distant is Aghrim, the scene of the battle (July 12, 1691) between the forces of William III. under De Ginckell and those of James II. under St. Ruth, in which the latter were completely defeated and their commander slain (St. Ruth's Bush marks the spot where he was buried). This battle is annually commemorated by the Orangemen on *'The Twelfth." Twenty-two miles west of Ballinasloe is

   Athenry {Hotel: Railway, near station), of much interest to the antiquarian, while a visit to the Dominican Friary will repay the general tourist ; but the village — once a royal town — is now poverty-stricken, although still a great hunting centre, the famous ''Galway Blazers" meeting here. The town was walled in 1211, and w^as not long in attracting foes. Its history has been a tragic one, bristling w4th the terrors of war. When the Earls of Clanricarde in 1577 sw^ept the land of Connaught with fire and sword Athenry buried its full share of the slain. Again, however, it rose from its ruins, but only to fall before ''Red Hugh's" destroying hand. Sacked and burnt, it never recovered from this savage blow.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 8

   As the companion tells it

   The parish of Aughrim lies five miles from Ballinasloe, and the road passes through it. On July 12, 1691, this was the scene of a battle between the forces of William III under De Ginckell and the forces of James II under St. Ruth. The men of James were completely defeated, and St. Ruth their commander was slain. He was buried where he fell, and the spot is still marked by St. Ruth's Bush. Every year the Orangemen commemorate the battle on what they call the Twelfth. Further along the road, twenty-two miles west of Ballinasloe, stands Athenry, once a royal town but now poverty-stricken. It was walled in 1211, and its history has been a tragic one, bristling with the terrors of war. When the Earls of Clanricarde swept the land of Connaught with fire and sword in 1577, Athenry buried its full share of the slain. The town rose again from its ruins, only to fall before the destroying hand of Red Hugh. Sacked and burnt, it never recovered from that savage blow.

9. Corcomroe Abbey: Cistercian ruin with royal effigy

   Corcomroe · barony · Clare · 1182–1267

   Corcomroe Abbey, near Ballyvaughan, was founded about 1182 by Donaldmore O'Brien, king of Limerick, as an offshoot of Furness monastery in Lancashire and dedicated to St. Mary. The cloister-square and church still remain, including a chancel with altar, sedilia, and a large sculptured figure of King Conor Roe O'Brien (1267) recording 13th-century royal Irish dress.

   Read the passage

   From Ballyvaughan {Hotels: (C.) Kerin's ; Mrs. Davis'), 7 miles eastward along the Bay, is Corcomroe Abbey, an offshoot of the great monastery of Furness in Lancashire. It was founded about 1182 by a king of Limerick, Donaldmore O'Brien, and dedicated to St. Mary.^ Though rude in structure as seen today, ancient accounts tell of ''the purple marble and polished stones, starry ornaments and whitewashed walls of the Abbey." The cloister- square and church still remain. In the chancel of the church there are the altar, the sedilia, and the most interesting object of the building — the large figure of King Conor Roe O'Brien (1267), grandson of the founder, which gives a sculptured record of the royal Irish dress of the 13th century.

   A public car from Lisdoonvarna meets the steamer at Ballyvaughan.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 27

10. Scattery Island monastery destroyed by Norsemen and Danes

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare · 800

    The monastery on Scattery Island was destroyed twice in the 9th century by Norsemen, devastated by Brian Boru, plundered by the Danes, and later captured and long held by the English.

    Read the passage

    The older name of Scattery is Inis (the island) Cathaig (of the Cathach). The latter was a monster, mastered and chained by St. Senan, who founded in the 6th century cells and oratories in County Cork, the islands of the Fergus, on Mutton Island, and upon this island. He died in 544, and is revered as patron in several French churches. The monastery became famous and attracted Kieran, founder of Clonmacnoise, who became an official. Even St. Aidan, "founder of Lindisfarne, and consequently predecessor of the Bishops of Durham," may inrha-ps have been the Aidan who lived here. We read of the house being destroyed twice in the 9th century by Norsemen, devastated by Brian Boru, plundered by the Danes, and captured and long held by the English. Granted as a fishing village to Limerick in later days, it passed to the mayor of that city, who "asserted his rights by shooting an arrow into the river west of the island " {Killarney Sect. p. 115).

    The legend of St. Cannara, which Moore has put into verse, tells how that holy nun sailed to Senan's island to make her request—

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 16

11. Aran Isles marriage customs and dowry traditions

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The Aran Isles community once practiced singular customs: brides received boats as dowries, and marriage rings were heirlooms passed from mother to daughter, often decorated with a heart supported by two hands. Fishermen refused to put to sea on certain days regarded as unlucky, even when miraculous shoals appeared in the bay.

    Read the passage

    The community had at one time many singular customs. The bride received as her dowry a boat, or share of a boat, according to the means of the parents. The marriage ring was an heirloom passing from mother to daughter. It was often decorated with a heart supported by two hands. On certain days, regarded by them as unlucky, not even the presence in the bay of the most miraculous shoals of fish would tempt the fishermen to put to sea. Hardiman, in his History of Galway, describes this strange community, who now however conform to the manners and customs of their neighbours.

    The small one-story houses are dotted about without any attempt at uniformity and present the general appearance of a bed of mushrooms.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 25

12. Ballynahinch Castle: seat of the Martins

    Ballynahinch · townland · Galway

    Ballynahinch Castle was for centuries the seat of the Martins, a powerful feudal family who possessed about 200,000 acres. The peasantry said 'Colonel Martin was the best Martin that ever reigned,' denoting the family's almost regal power.

    Read the passage

    It is a walk of about 1| mile from the station to the church by the delightful road that passes Ballynahinch House, and from the rising ground you will find some of the most charming little views in Ireland, if not indeed in the kingdom. There is just enough foliage to make a rich foreground, and through the opening trees the old ruined tower of the castle stands black against the silvery lake that washes the feet of the graceful slopes of Bengower. The easel and the brush have already penetrated thus far, and this land of beauty is not unknown on the walls of "Burlington House." This was for centuries the seat of the Martins, a powerful family in feudal times. It was a common phrase among the peasantry that "Colonel Martin was the best Martin that ever reigr Tiec^," clearly denoting the almost regal power of the family, who possessed about 200,000 acres of ground in this country. Charles Lever's book. The Martins of Cro- Martin, deals with this family.

    On the west arm of Bertraghboy Bay, 7 miles south of Ballynahinch, is Roundstone {Hotels : Mellet ; (C. ) Kinton (temp.)), one of the most health-giving resorts on the west coast. The view from the town is of considerable grandeur, the mountains seeming to rise from the sea. Rare botanical plants grow in profusion on Urrisbeg, and the purple blossoms of the gentian are seen everywhere. The place is very popular with artists. Within a mile of the town lie Gurteen Beaches and Dog's Bay which present a fine and safe bathing-place and are well worthy of a visit. In the summer there are two incoming mails daily.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 31

13. Castleconnell Castle: O'Briens, murder, and 1688 siege

    Castleconnell · town · Limerick · 1688

    Castleconnell takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, crowning a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe was said to have been inveigled into the castle, blinded, and murdered by the Prince of Thomond; the fortress was later occupied by the Red Earl of Ulster, and in 1688 held out for King James before being taken and blown up with gunpowder.

    Read the passage

    The village, much cleaner and neater than most Irish villages, takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high and solitary rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe is said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Thomond, who, having put out his eyes, afterwards cruelly murdered him. The fortress was subsequently occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days, and blown up with gunpowder.

    Though Castleconnell is to be ranked high upon the fisherman's list, there is hardly any free fishing, and the salmon

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Castleconnell, the village takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, crowning a high rock overlooking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe was said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Thomond, who put out his eyes and afterwards cruelly murdered him. Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, later occupied the fortress. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days and blown up with gunpowder.

14. Inishmaan fort and King Eoghan Beul on Lough Mask

    Inishmaan · island or archipelago · Galway · 500–537

    Inishmaan, the largest island in Lough Mask, holds the remains of a fort said to have been founded by Eoghan Beul, King of Connaught, in the early 6th century. He was killed at Sligo in 537 in battle with the people of Ulster, having ordered his body buried upright 'facing Ulster' with a javelin in hand.

    Read the passage

    Lough Mask, lying in a direction almost due north and south, is about 10 miles in length, and little more than 4 in breadth. Owing to the proximity of the mountains to the west, the scenery in its vicinity far surpasses that adjoining Lough Corrib. The lake contains upwards of twenty islands, the largest of which is Inishmaan, on which there are remains of a fort said to have been founded by Eoghan Beul, King of Connaught, in the beginning of the 6th century. He was killed at Sligo in 537 in battle with the people of Ulster, having previously ordered his body to be buried in an erect position "facing Ulster," with a "javelin in his hand, that even in death he might affright his enemies. The position of the body seemed to act as a charm upon the people of Connaught, who subsequently won every battle, until the people of the north of Ireland came with a numerous host, and carried the body northwards across the

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 43

15. Maria Edgeworth's Home at Edgeworthstown

    Edgeworthstown · town · Longford

    Edgeworthstown was the lifelong home of Maria Edgeworth, one of Ireland's greatest literary figures, who managed the family property and wrote many of her celebrated works there. Sir Walter Scott paid a memorable visit to the house, and Edgeworth remained there until her death at eighty-two.

    Read the passage

    largely in her charge. She educated her young step-brothers and sisters, and it was for them she began writing stories, her immensely popular Parent's Assistant thus originating. The household was still further increased by the addition of two of the second and third Mrs. Edgeworth's sisters, but in the never-ending turmoil and lack of privacy Maria wrote without difficulty. It was she who managed the property for her father and received the rents, and after a short interregnum she did the same for her step-brother Lovell, who succeeded him. It was at this time Sir Walter Scott paid his memorable visit. "Mrs. Edgeworth's brother," says Lockhart, "had his classic mansion filled every evening with a succession of distinguished friends" to meet the poet. Edgeworthstown was Miss Edgeworth's home during the whole of her long life, and here she died at the age of eighty-two. From the first she depicted life as she saw it, which was the secret of her great success, and those who know her works will recognise many a homely picture in their visit to this district.

    Then after Cavan Junction, where a branch diverges to Cavan, we reach Mullingar, already described (p. 178).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    This is Edgeworthstown, where Maria Edgeworth lived her whole long life and died at the age of 82. She managed the family property for her father and later for her step-brother Lovell, receiving the rents in a household full of step-brothers and sisters she helped educate. She began writing stories for those children, and her immensely popular Parent's Assistant grew from that. Despite what the source calls the "never-ending turmoil and lack of privacy" in the crowded house, she wrote without difficulty. Sir Walter Scott paid a memorable visit here, and Lockhart records that the mansion was filled every evening with distinguished friends come to meet the poet. From the first she depicted life as she saw it, which was the secret of her great success. Those who know her works will recognise many a homely picture in this district as you pass through.

16. Sieges of Limerick and the Treaty Stone

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1651–1691

    Limerick was taken by General Ireton in 1651. William III's siege of 1690 was raised by Sarsfield's defence, but Ginckell proved too strong in 1691. Sarsfield signed the famous treaty on the Treaty Stone, binding William to protect Catholic privileges—a promise unkept, giving Limerick its name as the City of the Violated Treaty.

    Read the passage

    The portion on "King's island" called English Town was founded in the reign of King John by William de Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifications were extended to Irish Town south of it. The city in 1651 was taken by General Ireton. William III.'s siege of 1690, owing chiefly to Sarsfield's energetic defence, was raised ; but 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sarsfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way in which the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769.

    Bridges. — English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Matliew {Killarney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occupying the site of a bridge of great antiquity, Thomond Bridge, also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects English town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the bridge stands the "Treaty Stone" mentioned above.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Limerick, you are in a city that was taken by General Ireton in 1651. The settlement on King's Island, called English Town, was founded in the reign of King John by William de Burgo, who built a castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifications spread to Irish Town, south of it. William III besieged the city in 1690, but Sarsfield's energetic defence raised the siege. Thirteen months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sarsfield had to sign the famous treaty on the Treaty Stone, which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way the English side of the bargain was kept is shown by the city's other name: the City of the Violated Treaty. The Treaty Stone stands on the Clare side of Thomond Bridge. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769.

17. St. Senan founds monastery on Scattery Island

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare · 500–544

    St. Senan founded cells and oratories on Scattery Island in the 6th century, among other foundations across County Cork and the islands of the Fergus. He died in 544 and is revered as a patron in several French churches.

    Read the passage

    The older name of Scattery is Inis (the island) Cathaig (of the Cathach). The latter was a monster, mastered and chained by St. Senan, who founded in the 6th century cells and oratories in County Cork, the islands of the Fergus, on Mutton Island, and upon this island. He died in 544, and is revered as patron in several French churches. The monastery became famous and attracted Kieran, founder of Clonmacnoise, who became an official. Even St. Aidan, "founder of Lindisfarne, and consequently predecessor of the Bishops of Durham," may inrha-ps have been the Aidan who lived here. We read of the house being destroyed twice in the 9th century by Norsemen, devastated by Brian Boru, plundered by the Danes, and captured and long held by the English. Granted as a fishing village to Limerick in later days, it passed to the mayor of that city, who "asserted his rights by shooting an arrow into the river west of the island " {Killarney Sect. p. 115).

    The legend of St. Cannara, which Moore has put into verse, tells how that holy nun sailed to Senan's island to make her request—

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 16

18. Dead-man's Lane and the Lynch hanging tradition

    Lombard Street · street · Galway

    A tradition holds that a man named Lynch executed someone with his own hands by hanging him out of a window in Lumbard Street, also known as Dead-man's Lane. The spot is marked with a skull and cross-bones and an inscription, on the north side of St. Nicholas' Church.

    Read the passage

    termination, executed him with his own hands, hanging him out of a window, still pointed out in Lumbard Street, otherwise known as Dead-man's Lane. This is to be found on the north side of St. Nicholas' Church. There is a skull and cross-bones and an inscription to mark it. In the same street are some interesting old houses.

    Galway is admirably situated for commercial purposes, and possesses all the natural advantages necessary for development into a first-class port. However, very great expenditure would be necessary before large steamers could use the harbour.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on Lombard Street, you are passing what is known as Dead-man's Lane. A tradition holds that a man named Lynch executed someone with his own hands by hanging him out of a window on this street. The spot is on the north side of St. Nicholas' Church, marked with a skull and cross-bones and an inscription. There are also some interesting old houses in the same street.

19. Clonmacnoise nunnery built by Devorgil

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 1150–1199

    A small nuns' church about half a mile from the main Clonmacnoise site was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Devorgil, wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Breifne. Its round-headed doorway and chancel arch survive with rich zigzag and beaded ornament and carved faces.

    Read the passage

    The gem of the whole collection, however, might very easily be missed. This is the ruin of the nunnery about \ mile away. To find it follow the rough field road leading off on the east to a clump of trees, and by means of a stile enter the precincts. This little nuns' church was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Devorgil, the very flighty wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Brofny, and the cause of the English Conquest of 1172. A round-headed doorway and the chancel arch remain, and are rich in ornament, both zigzag and beaded, and are illuminated by weird suspicious faces full of witchery. The keystone of the arch has been roughly restored in order to hold it together, but wisely no attempt has been made to imitate what is inimitable.

    (For detailed accounts see those by Petrie, and Dr. Stokes, R.S.A.I. Journ, 1890.)

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 8

20. Ennis Franciscan Abbey and the Martyrs' Pillar

    Ennis · town · Clare · 1200–1867

    Ennis is described as one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, clean and prosperous. Its chief historical building is the 13th-century Franciscan Abbey with a curious tower. Beyond the Infirmary stands the Martyrs' Pillar, erected in memory of three who suffered death in Manchester in 1867, notable for inscribed builder details.

    Read the passage

    Ennis, 24 J miles (Ref.-Km. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, "Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The people are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey, The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the ^'Martyrs*" Pillar^ erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    204 LIMERICK TO SLIGO

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 21

21. Prehistoric relics dredged from the Shannon near Portumna

    Shannon · town · Clare

    When commissioners deepened the Shannon bed a few miles above Portumna, prehistoric relics were found in successive strata: stone hatchets in the deepest layer, bronze spears and swords above, then iron implements, and finally more modern antiquated firelocks near the surface.

    Read the passage

    A few miles above Portumna the Shannon was almost unnavigable until the commissioners deepened the bed of the river. During these operations a number of very interesting prehistoric relics were brought to light. In the greatest depths stone hatchets were found. In a stratum overlying this were bronze spears and swords ; a still nearer deposit contained implements of iron, such as swords and spear-heads ; and in the strata next the surface more modern implements, among which were antiquated firelocks.

    Banagher {Hotels: M'Intyre's ; (C.) Miss Miller's (Temp.)) is a market town on the left bank of the river, and the railway terminus of a branch line from Clara. The river is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, which is protected by two towers and a battery : connected with it there are large barracks. About a mile from the town is the well-known Banagher distillery. In the vicinity are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans, the last representative of whom died a little more than half a century ago. He has been regarded as the " last Irish chief."

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 20

22. Discovery of the Cross of Cong in a village cottage

    Cong · town · Mayo · 1123–1800

    In the early 19th century the parish priest found the celebrated Cross of Cong in an oaken chest in one of the village cottages. This delicate piece of metalwork, now in the Dublin Museum, was originally made about 1123 for the Archbishop of Tuam and was probably brought to Cong by King O'Connor.

    Read the passage

    In the early part of the 19th century the parish priest found in an oaken chest in one of the cottages of the village the celebrated Cross of Cong, which is now in the Dublin Museum (page 15). It is a piece of very delicate and beautiful metal-work, and was originally made about 1123 for the Archbishop of Tuam, and was probably brought hither by King O'Connor. It

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 42

23. Golden Bell of Senan preserved by Keane family of Ennis

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare

    The Glogh Oir or Golden Bell of St. Senan is still preserved by the Keane family of Ennis, hereditary keepers (coarbs) of the treasure. Miss Stokes believed it to be the very bell used by the founder.

    Read the passage

    Cathedral, between the tower and the shore, is of the same date ; it has a good specimen of the early west doors. The Glogli Oir, or ''Golden Bell" of Senan is still preserved by the Keane family of Ennis, hereditary keeper ("coarb") of the treasure, and Miss Stokes believes it to be ''the very bell used by the founder." On the north side of the cathedral is an Oratory of large and early masonry, with a romanesque chancel arch of later date. West of the tower is the Well (or "tober") of Senan; and Temple Senan is a chapel, much rebuilt, on high ground, some 170 yards away to the north. Tradition says that Ard-na-n- Angeal, 300 yards south-west of tower, is the height on which the saint communed with the angel before defeating the "cathach." There are also ruins of the later Temple-a-Maxv (of the dead), and a 16th-century Castle.

    Kilrush {Hotel : Yandeleur Arms) is our last pier. From this small market town it is 8 J miles by train to Kilkee ; and for the journey a special train (not always published) awaits the arrival of steamers. Change at Moyasta Junction.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 16

24. Knocknarea: Hill of Executions and Queen Meave's cairn

    Knocknarea · street · Waterford

    Knocknarea, meaning 'the Hill of Executions,' rises to 1,078 feet and is crowned by an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, who buried three husbands before her own death. The cairn is 200 yards in circumference, and the view extends from Slieve League to Nephin.

    Read the passage

    The excursion to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains. The whole round is about 13 miles. By taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments at Carrowmore. A few miles north-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea^ "the Hill of Executions " (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 45). The fine view extends from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west).

    At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place, north of Drumcliff Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely shown to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the w^ay, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 48

25. O'Brien's Bridge and Conor O'Brien's submission, 1537

    O'Briensbridge · townland · Clare · 1537

    In 1537, Conor O'Brien, King of Thomond, who had aided 'Silken Thomas' in rebellion against Henry VIII, was compelled by Lord Deputy Lord Leonard Gray to renounce Papal supremacy and swear allegiance to the English king. Conor even promised to help the English break the bridge, though the present structure appears venerable enough to be the original.

    Read the passage

    O'Brien's Bridgk crosses the Shannon a few miles above Castleconnell. In 1537 Conor O'Brien, King of Thomond, had aided " Silken Thomas " in his rebellion against Henry VIII. The king determined to subdue Conor, and ordered the Lord Deputy, Lord Leonard Gray, to compel him to renounce the Papal supremacy and swear allegiance to the English king. Conor not only did so, but promised to help the English in breaking the bridge. The present structure, however, bears such a venerable aspect that we might almost believe it to be the identical O'Brien's Bridge.

    Killaloe {Hotels: (LA.C, C.) Lakeside; (C.) Grace's ; (C.) Royal ; Shannon View), by rail ITJ miles from Limerick, and at the south end of Lough Derg, is a very ancient town.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 19

26. Carrigogunnel Castle ruins on the Shannon

    Carrigogunnel · townland · Limerick · 1691

    The rocky eminence of Carrig-o'-Gunnel, crowned by picturesque castle ruins, forms a prominent landmark on the County Limerick side of the Shannon. The castle was originally founded by the Knights Templar and was blown up and dismantled after its surrender to William III's forces in 1691.

    Read the passage

    Shortly after leaving the quay at Limerick we pass on the left, or County Limerick side the beautiful demesne of Lord Emly, at the extremity of whose property the rocky eminence of Carrig-o'- Gunnel (Rock of Connel), crowned by the picturesque ruins of an ancient castle, forms a prominent object of the landscape. The castle, originally founded by the Knights Templar, was blown up and dismantled after its surrender to the forces of William III. in 1691.

    On the Clare side, nearly opposite Lord Emly's demesne, are the extensive woods of Cratloekeel, covering the mountain's side. Farther on we pass Dromore Castle, the magnificent residence of Lord Limerick, and Beagh Castle, and Horse Rock Lighthouse, the latter a prominent object in the middle of the river. On the Clare side (right), before reaching Foynes. we pass the estuary of the Fergus, called Lough Fergus. This is a very archipelago ; and on Canon Island is an ancient Norman monastery. Behind Beeves Lighthouse (left), in mid-stream, is the mouth of the Deel river, on which is —

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 15

27. English settlement and the Tribes of Galway

    Galway · city · Galway · 1200–1270

    In the 13th century Galway was given to Richard de Burgh, who fortified it and settled enterprising families there. Thirteen principal families became known as the 'tribes' of Galway. The town walls were built in 1270, sixty years after Athenry was fortified.

    Read the passage

    Almost nothing is known of the history of Galway until the arrival of the English, when the town and adjoining district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to Rich, de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, the principal families of whom, thirteen in number, were known as the ^'tribes" of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it acquired great commercial importance, and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street.

    After much fighting and sufi'ering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the ''Ti'eaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, ** built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the toAvnsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Galway. Almost nothing is known of its history before the arrival of the English, when the town and its adjoining district lay under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to Richard de Burgh, who strengthened its fortifications and made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers. The principal families among them, thirteen in number, became known as the tribes of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it acquired great commercial importance and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street. Later, after much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered in 1691 their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick.

28. Ballinasloe Great Fair

    Ballinasloe · town · Galway

    Ballinasloe's celebrated horse and cattle fair, ranked next to Dublin's in importance, begins before dawn on Monday and lasts through Saturday. The scene features exorbitant jarvies, excited horse-boys, gaitered farmers, and a customary cordon of police described as a painful element of Irish gatherings.

    Read the passage

    uncommon sight, presents a scene of overcrowding and business quite unique of its kind in Ireland. The stationmaster gives place to the barmaid of the refreshments and the lady-clerk of the telegraph ; in the cloak-room beds are substituted for valises ; and confusion reigns everywhere. On your right, as you enter the town, is Garbally House (Earl of Clancarty), and during the Sheep Fair the whole inner park is devoted to the use of some 20,000 bleating sheep. Within the town is bustle and bargaining. Exorbitant jarvies and excited horse-boys fill the road, or attempt, with maximum risk to life and limb, to thread their way through the groups of gaitered farmers. The latter are the most interesting figures on the street. Some, you will find, are remarkably tall, but none stout ; at our last visit to the fair, the fat farmer was as much a vara avis as a drunken one. On the look-out for mischief is the customary cordon of police, — a painful element of Irish gatherings at present ; and the dresses of the girls give colour to a crowd which, to an English eye, is as novel as it is interesting.

    Five miles distant is Aghrim, the scene of the battle (July 12, 1691) between the forces of William III. under De Ginckell and those of James II. under St. Ruth, in which the latter were completely defeated and their commander slain (St. Ruth's Bush marks the spot where he was buried). This battle is annually commemorated by the Orangemen on *'The Twelfth." Twenty-two miles west of Ballinasloe is

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Ballinasloe, a town the road passes through, and during fair week it holds the great horse and cattle fair that ranks next to Dublin's in importance. It runs from before dawn on Monday right through Saturday. The whole place fills with overcrowding and business the like of which is unique in Ireland. Even the station changes character, the stationmaster giving place to the barmaid and the telegraph lady-clerk, and beds replacing valises in the cloak-room. Garbally House, seat of the Earl of Clancarty, stands as you enter the town, and during the Sheep Fair its inner park fills with 20,000 bleating sheep. Inside the town there is bustle and bargaining. Exorbitant jarvies and excited horse-boys fill the road or try to thread their way through groups of gaitered farmers, at maximum risk to life and limb. The farmers are the most interesting figures on the street, some remarkably tall but none stout. On the writer's last visit, the fat farmer was as rare as a drunken one. On the look-out for mischief is the customary cordon of police, what the source calls "a painful element of Irish gatherings at present." The dresses of the girls give colour to a crowd that, to an English eye, is as novel as it is interesting.

29. Galway's surrender to Ginckell after Aughrim

    Galway · city · Galway · 1649–1691

    After much fighting during the Cromwellian war, the citizens of Galway surrendered their Jacobite guns in 1691 to the English under Ginckell, who was passing from the field of Aughrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick.

    Read the passage

    After much fighting and sufi'ering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the ''Ti'eaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, ** built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the toAvnsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Galway, a city that saw the end of a long war. After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered their Jacobite guns in 1691 to the English under Ginckell, who was passing on his way from the field of Aughrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick. The city carries an older tale as well. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, mayor in 1493, built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end and put painted glass in the windows. He is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him.

30. Iniscaltra: St. Caimin's church and round tower

    near Inishcaltra or Holy Island · townland · Clare · 600–1007

    On Iniscaltra (Holy Island) in Lough Derg, St. Caimin founded a church in the 7th century, part of which may survive in the western end of the standing church. The chancel, dated to 1007 AD by Miss Stokes, was built by King Brian Boru and marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland. A round tower of perhaps the 10th century stands nearby.

    Read the passage

    There is certain soft beauty about Scariff Bay {'pier). On its north side is Iniscaltra ("the island burying-ground "), or Holy Island on which are some ancient buildings of unusual interest. St. Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century, and in all probability the western end of the church now standing is part of that building. The chancel, however, is much later, and is dated by Miss Stokes 1007 a.d. It was, she says, *' built by King Brian Borumhe (Boru), and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a Round Tower of, perhaps, the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and shows the ''first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian ''speaks of a St. . Anmchadh, who, coming from Iniscaltra, travelled to Germany, and became a recluse at Fulda " {Stokes).

    On the same side as Scariff Bay is Mountshannon^ where there is a comfortable old-fashioned hotel which can put up 20 to 30 anglers in the season. "Dapping" with the natural fly is a favourite method of the sport in early summer. The charge per day for man and boat is 7s. 6d. Otherwise fishing free. The Shannon steamers do not stop here but at Williamstown^ a . short distance above. The scenery around Mountshannon is pretty enough to satisfy those who have no taste for fishing. On the opposite side of the lough is Youghal Bay, across which we have a good view of the Devil's Bit Mountain,

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 19

31. Athenry Dominican Priory founded 1241

    Athenry · town · Galway · 1241–1423

    The Dominican Priory at Athenry dates from 1241, with some original windows still remaining. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and rebuilt by the Pope's command. The sacristy contains bones traditionally those of the last monks, and a south-west window is said to have lighted a penitent's cell.

    Read the passage

    A few yards oif is the most interesting of all the ruins — the Dominican Priory. Some of the original church of 1241 still remains in the windows of tho nave (south) and chancel (north), but most of it is later work. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and, soon after, was rebuilt by the Pope's command. It has remains of an east window of the ''Muckross" type ; an eccentric inscription on the north wall ; the '* tasteless " tomb (in the centre) of Lady Bermingham ; and, on the south, the "sacristy," containing bones which tradition relates are those of the last monks. The nave once possessed in its west wall the finest window (" Decorated ") in the church ; it had a little window^ in the south-west corner which is said to have lighted the cell of a penitent of the last century. The curious ''coat of arms " of Tanian the smith, upon a floor slab, deserves notice. The finest feature of the building, however, is the heautiful arcading in the north side aisle ; if not as old as the original church, this must be at least of 13th-century date. There is an account of the chm^ch in the B. S.A.I. Handbook^ 1897.

    Athenry is on a north and south line running from Limerick to Sligo, and this belongs to the G.S. and "W. Railway. We shall have to insert here the section dealing with it and those who wish to continue straight to Galway must skip to p. 206.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Athenry, the Dominican Priory stands among the ruins here. It dates from 1241, and some of the original church still survives in the windows of the nave on the south side and the chancel on the north. Most of what you see is later work. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and was rebuilt soon after by command of the Pope. It has remains of an east window of the Muckross type, an eccentric inscription on the north wall, and the tomb of Lady Bermingham in the centre, described as tasteless. On the south side is the sacristy, containing bones which tradition says are those of the last monks. The nave once had in its west wall the finest window in the church, of the Decorated style. A little window in the south-west corner is said to have lighted the cell of a penitent of the last century. There is also a curious coat of arms belonging to Tannian the smith, upon a floor slab. The finest feature of the building is the arcading in the north side aisle. If not as old as the original church, it must be at least 13th-century in date.

32. Athlone Castle's 13th-century base built by Bishop of Norwich

    Athlone · town · Westmeath · 1213–1691

    The only remaining 13th-century part of Athlone Castle is the base of the fort built by the Bishop of Norwich. The castle has a long record of assaults and sieges, most famously the siege of 1691 when Ginckell captured Athlone.

    Read the passage

    The earliest fort seems to have occupied the Celtic " dun " near the present bridge, in the far-off time when the crossing was made over the fords ; and whe^ troops and travellers laiew well the hostelry and the history alike of that ancient taverner, one " Lnan," to whom our best scholars trace the latter part of the name of the town. It seems strange that the place should be connected with Norwich, but it is reliable history that the Bishop of the most eastern city of England built here in 1213 the central castle of Ireland, and we shall find more of this builder-bishop's work at Clonmacnois. The castle has had an eventful record of assaults and sieges, but of none more famous than the siege of 1691, when Ginckell captured Athlone, and so forced the battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. At first the garrison under Grace, and, later St. Ruth, who held the castle for James II., stood firm, but the heavy tire of Ginckell's men and their last assault utterly broke the Irish defence.

    " It seems hard for us to conceive how, in the siege of 1691, any part of the town can have escaped utter destruction, as the batteries were all arranged along the river bank on the site of the present Strand Street, with outlying batteries. . . . But we must remember that the siege guns and powder of two hundred years ago did not carry their projectiles much farther than a couple of hundred yards. Specimens of the cannon balls used in the siege can still be seen in Athlone " (Professor Stokes). The present bridge replaces the old Elizabethan structure which was the scene of the siege (see Professm^ Stokes's " Guide to Athlone," an uncommonly useful sixpenny -worth).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead in Athlone, the castle you're approaching has its oldest roots in a Celtic fort near the river fords. Travellers once knew those fords and the tavern of one Lnan, the man scholars trace the town's name to. In 1213, the Bishop of Norwich built what was called the central castle of Ireland here, and the base of that 13th-century fort is the only part that survives. The castle has known assault after assault, but the great story is the siege of 1691. Ginckell captured the town that year, forcing the battle at Aughrim against the French and Irish. The garrison under Grace, and later St. Ruth, held the castle for James II, but heavy fire and a final assault broke the Irish defence. Professor Stokes wrote that "it seems hard for us to conceive how, in the siege of 1691, any part of the town can have escaped utter destruction," as the batteries lined the river bank along what is now Strand Street. The siege guns of those days did not carry much beyond a couple of hundred yards, and cannon balls from the siege can still be seen in the town today.

33. Cong Abbey and the last King of Ireland

    Cong · parish · Galway · 600–1129

    St. Feichin of Fore built a church at Cong in the 7th century, and the abbey was founded in 1129. King Roderic O'Connor, the last monarch of Ireland, died there after 15 years of cloistered life, with much of the remaining walls dating from his time. The ruins were later restored by Sir Benjamin Guinness.

    Read the passage

    St. Feicliin of Fore, who erected churches early in the 7tli century on High Island (page 223), built here also a church. The abbey was founded in 1129, by whom is unknown. Afterwards, in the last part of the 12th century. King Roderic O'Connor, the last monarch of Ireland, died, after 15 years of cloister life, within these buildings. Petrie considers that most of the remaining walls date from the monkking's time.

    After entering, follow the path till another goes back (right) at an acute angle to the cloister. Here we have a piece of uncommon ''restoration." The arcading at the four corners above the bases of the shafts is modern, and was designed and erected by a local stone-mason.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 42

34. Downpatrick Head cliffs and Poulashantana chasm

    near Downpatrick Head · promontory · Mayo

    Downpatrick Head, north of Killala, is a succession of magnificent cliffs. A great chasm caused by the surface of the hill falling in reveals the ocean rolling in 2000 feet below through a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana.

    Read the passage

    Downpatrick Head, 9 miles north of Killala, a succession of magnificent cliffs, well worthy of a visit. In ascending the Head visitors are startled by coming suddenly on a great chasm, caused by the surface of the hill having fallen in. Cautiously approaching this abyss, and looking down, the ocean is seen rolling in at a depth of 2000 feet, through a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana.

    The journey from Ballina to Sligo is 37 miles, and it is possible to go by car once a day, changing at Droraore. Fare 6s. 6d. The cycling is fair generally. From Ballina to Dromore the road is, generally speaking, unattractive. The country is flat moorland, and only relieved by the distant view, on the right, of the Ox Mountains. Beyond Dromore {large inn) the aspect of the country is more cheerful, being better cultivated and more fertile, though to the right it is still mountainous. On the left is Aughris Head, a promontory guarding the southern shore of Sligo Bay. Before reaching Ballysodare we have a view on the left of the lake-like bay of the same name.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 46

35. Grace O'Malley dismisses her husband at Corrig-a-Howly

    Newport · town · Mayo

    Tradition holds that Grace O'Malley's marriage to Sir Richard Bourke was to last only one year, after which either party could dismiss the other. Having installed her own men in his castles, she cried the dissolving words from the castle of Corrig-a-Howly near Newport.

    Read the passage

    * I dismiss you/ the union was dissolved. It is said that during that year Grana took good care to put her own creatures in all M 'William's eastward castles that were valuable to her, and then, one fine day, as the Lord of Mayo was coming up to the castle of Corrig-a-Howly, near Newport, Grana spied him, and cried out the dissolving words, 'I dismiss you.' "We are not told how M 'William took the snapping of the matrimonial chain. It is likely that he was not sorry to have a safe riddance of such a virago." Grace was invited to London by Queen Elizabeth, who tried various ways of showing her attentions ; but the wild daughter of the west could not appreciate the kindness of her entertainer.

    Westport to Achill Island (26J miles by train^ and 9 on to Dugort by road). The route embraces varied views of the mountains and of Clew Bay. At Newport, finely situated on Clew Bay, there is an hotel, and fishing on the Newport River and in the Beltra Lakes. In the neighbourhood are the ruins Burrishoole Abbey, and a beautiful glen in the heart of the mountains.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 37

    As the companion tells it

    Newport sits on Clew Bay, and the road takes you through it. Tradition holds that Grace O'Malley's marriage to Sir Richard Bourke, called M'William, was to last only one year, after which either party could dismiss the other. During that year, Grace took care to put her own men in all his eastward castles that were valuable to her. Then one day, as the Lord of Mayo was coming up to the castle of Corrig-a-Howly near this town, Grace spied him and cried out the dissolving words, "I dismiss you." The union was dissolved. We are not told how he took the snapping of the matrimonial chain. It is likely he was not sorry to have a safe riddance of such a virago. Grace was later invited to London by Queen Elizabeth, who tried various ways of showing her attentions, but the wild daughter of the west could not appreciate the kindness of her entertainer.

36. Irish gunner Burke's near-fatal shot at King William from cathedral

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1690

    During the siege of Limerick in 1690, the Irish mounted a cannon on the battlements of St Mary's Cathedral. A shot directed by a skilled gunner named Burke nearly proved fatal to King William.

    Read the passage

    The bells are eight in number and in the key of F. The oldest, the D and F bells, bear Latin inscriptions with the date 1673. During the siege of the city in 1690 a cannon was mounted by the Irish on the battlements of the cathedral, from which a shot, directed by a very skilful gunner of the name of Burke, nearly proved fatal to King William.

    St. John's Roman Catholic Cathedral is reached from St. Mary's Cathedral by Mary and John Streets. It is adorned by one of the handsomest spires in Ireland, and, within, by a dark and elaborate stone rercdos over the great altar. Between the south altars is a very beautiful marble statue by Benzoni of the Virgin Mary — perhaps the work of art in Limerick.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Limerick, the city you're in was the site of a famous near miss in 1690. During the siege that year, the Irish mounted a cannon on the battlements of St Mary's Cathedral. A gunner named Burke, described as very skilful, aimed a shot from there that nearly proved fatal to King William. The cathedral's bells, by the way, go back to 1673, with Latin inscriptions on the oldest ones.

37. Killeany churches and Round Tower destroyed for Arkin Castle

    Killeany · townland · Galway · 1649–1660

    At Killeany, of several churches only two remained, with the lower part only of the Round Tower. Four churches and the upper part of the Tower were destroyed by Cromwellian soldiers to build up the adjoining Arkin Castle. Enda's Chapel remained but his tomb and great church were gone.

    Read the passage

    From the Steamer Pier we turn left along the bay to Killeany, where of several churches only two now remain, with the lower part only of the Round Tower. Four churches and the upper part of the Tower were destroyed by Cromwellian soldiers to build up the adjoining Arkin Castle. '' Enda's Chapel " remains, but his tomb, as his great church, have gone. Here was the

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 25

38. Loop Head and Cuchullin's Leap tradition

    Loop Head · promontory · Clare

    Loop Head, sixteen miles from Kilkee, is properly called Leap Head or Cuchullin's Leap. The tradition holds that Cuchullin, a knight of Ulster, leapt onto a small rock about twenty-five feet from the mainland to escape a pursuing termagant woman called Mal, who perished in the waves after failing her second leap.

    Read the passage

    Loop Head (16 miles from Kilkee), properly Leap Head, or Cuchullin's Leap. The tradition is that Cuchullin a knight of Ulster, on being pursued by a termagant woman called Mal^ reached the extremity of Clare, and discovering that she was still close in pursuit, leapt on to a small rock about 25 feet from the mainland. The termagant succeeded also in reaching the rock, whereupon Cuchullin immediately leapt back, but the woman, not succeeding in her second attempt to follow him, fell into the waves and perished.

    See West Clare Railway, pp. 204, 214.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Loop Head, you are at a promontory properly called Leap Head, or Cuchullin's Leap. The tradition is that Cuchullin, a knight of Ulster, was pursued by a termagant woman called Mal. Reaching the extremity of Clare and finding her still close behind, he leapt onto a small rock about 25 feet from the mainland. Mal succeeded in reaching the rock too, so Cuchullin leapt straight back. She failed her second attempt to follow him, fell into the waves, and perished.

39. Sligo strand legend of Nuada of the Silver Hand

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    Legend says that when Nuada of the Silver Hand vanquished and killed the king of the Fir-bolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the Sligo strand, and it is fabled that the tide will never cover it.

    Read the passage

    The history of Sligo begins with legend. When "Nuada of the Silver Hand " vanquished and killed the king of the Firbolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the Sligo strand, and it is fabled that "the tide will never cover it." Among recorded facts is the founding of the Monastery and Castle by B'itzgerald, Earl of Kildare, in the 13th century. In the civil wars the town was captured by the Parliamentary troops under Coote.

    The chief lion of the town is the Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414, but soon afterwards was reerected. The choir has a beautiful east window, of ' ' reticulated " tracery, still perfect ; the slender ringed shafts are a good feature. Under this is a very rare specimen of a stone altar ;

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Sligo, the history here begins with legend. When Nuada of the Silver Hand vanquished and killed the king of the Fir-bolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the strand, and it is fabled that "the tide will never cover it." The town's chief sight is the Abbey, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414, but was rebuilt soon after. The choir still has a beautiful east window with reticulated tracery, still perfect, and slender ringed shafts. Beneath it is a rare surviving stone altar.

40. St. Cannara denied burial on Scattery Island

    Scattery Island · townland · Clare

    The legend of St. Cannara, versified by Moore, tells how the holy nun sailed to Scattery Island seeking to share Senan's prayers. Though a relative of Senan, she was allowed only to receive the Blessed Eucharist and was buried on the foreshore after death.

    Read the passage

    But the good lady met with as stern a refusal as the gentle Kathleen of Glendalough, and being a relative of St. Senan was allowed only to receive the Blessed Eucharist, and, after death, was buried on the foreshore.

    There is an interesting description of the ruined buildings of Scattery in the E.S.A.L EandhooTc^ 1898 {JVestropp) ; a few notes will here suffice. The Round Tower is the tallest in Ireland, and is exceptional in having a door on the ground level. Miss Stokes notes that as its masonry is not "hammer-dressed," it may be dated among the earliest (9th to 10th century). The

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 16

41. Spanish trade shaping Galway architecture

    Galway · city · Galway · 1270–1691

    Galway acquired commercial importance and was much frequented by Spanish merchants. The intercourse with Spain is ascribed to architectural peculiarities still visible among older buildings, including fantastic ornamental carvings and interior courtyards with gateways opening onto the street.

    Read the passage

    Almost nothing is known of the history of Galway until the arrival of the English, when the town and adjoining district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to Rich, de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, the principal families of whom, thirteen in number, were known as the ^'tribes" of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it acquired great commercial importance, and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street.

    After much fighting and sufi'ering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the ''Ti'eaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, ** built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the toAvnsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de-

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway, you are in a town whose walls went up in 1270, and soon Spanish merchants were frequenting it so often that they left their mark on the buildings. Some older houses still carry fantastic ornamental carvings, and many have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street, features ascribed to that trade with Spain. Before the walls, the town was under the protection of O'Flaherty, then given to de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and settled thirteen enterprising families, known as the tribes of Galway. In 1493 James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who served as mayor, built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at the west end and put painted glass in the windows. He is the famous Warden who, according to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The townsfolk interceded for him. After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the Treaty Stone of Limerick.

42. Ancient funeral customs at Cong cross-roads

    Cong · town · Mayo

    An ancient funeral custom survived in Cong up to the time of writing: after a procession to the Abbey, mourners pause at the cross-roads and deposit crosses beneath an ash tree, a ceremony also found at Bannow and in parts of France and the Pyrenees.

    Read the passage

    Some very intcvcsting funeral customs of great antiquity have remained in this viHage up to the present day. After a procession to the Abbey, a pause is made at the cross-roads, and crosses are deposited beneath an ash tree. The same ceremony is found at Bannow, and is also met with among the Pyrenees and in France.

    The demesne of Ashfoud. (Ticket, obtained in village, must be presented punctually at 11 or 3.) The grounds, which extend for more than two miles along the borders of the lough, are finely laid out, and there are large herds of red and fallow deer. The mansion-house is an extensive pile of buildings in the castellated style, the materials being white and gray limestone. The garden and grounds only are shown.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 43

43. Clonmacnoise Episcopal Castle ruins

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly · 1210

    The Episcopal Castle outside the cemetery of Clonmacnoise was built by John de Gray, Bishop of Norwich, around 1210. Cromwell's soldiers attempted to blow it up but failed, and it remains in the same state 250 years later.

    Read the passage

    Tower, on the ground level. " The ruins of the Episcopal Castle outside the cemetery of Clonmacnois are very striking ; it is still in exactly the same state as Cromwell left it 250 years ago, when his soldiers attempted in vain to blow it up. It was originally built by John de Gray, Bishop of Norwich, about the year 1210."

    The gem of the whole collection, however, might very easily be missed. This is the ruin of the nunnery about \ mile away. To find it follow the rough field road leading off on the east to a clump of trees, and by means of a stile enter the precincts. This little nuns' church was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Devorgil, the very flighty wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Brofny, and the cause of the English Conquest of 1172. A round-headed doorway and the chancel arch remain, and are rich in ornament, both zigzag and beaded, and are illuminated by weird suspicious faces full of witchery. The keystone of the arch has been roughly restored in order to hold it together, but wisely no attempt has been made to imitate what is inimitable.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 8

44. Lissoy: Goldsmith's father farmed the estate

    Lissoy · townland · Westmeath

    Lissoy, also called 'Auburn,' is the supposed scene of Goldsmith's 'Deserted Village.' Goldsmith's father, rector of Kilkenny West, supplemented his meagre income by farming about 70 acres of the Lissoy Estate. The claim to Goldsmith's birthplace is disputed by Pallas, Forgney, and Elphin.

    Read the passage

    Here Goldsmith's father, the rector of Kilkenny West, added to his meagre resources by farming some 70 acres of the Lissoy Estate, but though the poet lived much of his early life here, the claim to the honour of his birthplace is disputed by Pallas, Forgney, and Elphin, which Dr. Stokes favours most. The last, indeed, has boldly asserted its right by the erection (1897) of a window in the church commemorating the event there in 1728, At Edgeworthstown (17 miles north-east) Goldsmith learnt the ''Three R's," as well as the village master's long store of ''stories about ghosts, banshees, and fairies." Once, alack! — on his journey between that place and his home — he "actually committed the blunder of his own Comedy, mistaking a squire's house for an inn." To enumerate, however, even the chief incidents of his life ; his unhappy time at Trinity College, his idleness at home, the final departure from his native land, when he was 24 years old ; to describe a career which passed from medical study to literary vagaries and philosophical vagabondism, oi the distressing restraint of a moneyless author, the ill-paid production of masterpieces such as the Vicar of Wakefield and of the " Deserted Village," and all the events of the life of that

    182 DUBLIN TO GALWAY

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 6

45. Quin Abbey, a Franciscan ruin with Norman fortress

    Quin · town · Clare · 1402

    Quin Abbey, about 2 miles upstream from Ardsollus Station, is an extensive and well-preserved Franciscan ruin probably dating from 1402, with evidence of additions at different periods. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress of the Norman period or earlier, and contains ancient monuments in its cemetery.

    Read the passage

    About 2 miles up-stream from Ardsollus Station (19| miles) is QuiN Abbey, an extensive and well-preserved ruin, founded for Franciscan friars, and dating probably from 1402. An examination of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored at great cost. It is of special interest as having been surrounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The best things at Clare Castle (23 miles) are the fine meadows, with the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in the river Fergus. Close to the railway line (right) are the fine ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular.

    Ennis, 24 J miles (Ref.-Km. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, "Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The people are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey, The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the ^'Martyrs*" Pillar^ erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone-

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 21

46. Rathkeale's Desmond Castle and Palatine refugees

    Rathkeale · town · Limerick · 1700–1720

    Near Rathkeale and Ballingrane Junction stand another Desmond Castle, several ancient buildings including an Early English Priory. At the beginning of the last century Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate settled in this neighbourhood.

    Read the passage

    Four miles inland, and south from Askeaton, is Ballingrane Junction, which is 2 miles from Rathkeale station. Here is another Desmond Castle and several ancient buildings, including an "Early English" Priory. At the beginning of the last century some Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate settled in this neighbourhood.

    Then, leaving the disused pier of Foynes on our left, we put in on certain days in the week at Kildysart, which serves the wide trainless district between Ennis and Kilrush. On other days the steamer continues until Redgap, on Labasheeda Bay, is reached. A little beyond, and on the opposite side of the Shannon, is the bright, well-built village of Glin.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 15

47. Adare's history from Norman rath to dwindled village

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1226–1850

    Adare's history goes back to an early fort (rath) on which the Normans built a castle around the twelfth century. The town was populous enough by 1226 to obtain a royal grant for an annual fair, but by the early nineteenth century it had dwindled to fewer than two dozen thatched cottages before revival under the second Earl of Dunraven (1824–1850).

    Read the passage

    The history of Adare goes back to the erection of the Rath, the early fort on which the castle of the Normans was built about the twelfth century. Around this and the church, also built then by the invaders, grew the Nornian town which was populous enough in 1226 to obtain the English king's grant for an annual fair. Then large religious houses were established, and the town enclosed within walls, which have now practically disappeared. "At the commencement of the present century Adare had dwindled down to a collection of thatched cottages," numbering less than two dozen {Dunraven Memorials) ; but with the coming of the second Earl of Dunraven (1824-1850), fortune smiled upon it again.

    The Village Gate of Adare Manor is opposite the hotel. For a view of the House turn right when the path forks within. It is a fine modern mansion built in 1832, and " the greater portion " was '' designed by an amateur, a mason named Conolly, . . . not a single drawing having been furnished by an architect " {Memorials). The special feature to note is the beautiful modern oak carving on overmantels, staircase, etc., all done by local talent.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 13

48. Cong Abbey church and reputed grave of King Rory O'Connor

    Cong · town · Mayo

    The plain church at Cong has a fine late Norman entrance arch and an east window of three lancet lights smothered in ivy. Beneath a railed grave-slab in the chancel floor rest some old abbots, and adjoining it is the reputed grave of King Rory O'Connor, marked by a curious armless incised cross.

    Read the passage

    The very plain and unattractive Church is entered from the road ; a fine late Norman arch forms an entrance ; notice its capitals. The east window, of three lancet-shaped lights, is smothered in ivy. Beneath a grave - slab, railed over, in the middle of the chancel floor ^ rest some of the old abbots of this house ; and adjoining it is the reputed grave of King Rory O'Connor, over which is a curious incised cross, without arms. The royal recluse was really buried at Clonmacnois.

    South of the chancel are some gloomy chambers, one vaulted, of early character.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 42

49. Elphin: window commemorating Goldsmith's birth

    Elphin · town · Roscommon · 1728–1897

    Elphin is one of several places claiming to be Goldsmith's birthplace. In 1897, a window was erected in the church there commemorating his birth in 1728, boldly asserting the town's claim.

    Read the passage

    Here Goldsmith's father, the rector of Kilkenny West, added to his meagre resources by farming some 70 acres of the Lissoy Estate, but though the poet lived much of his early life here, the claim to the honour of his birthplace is disputed by Pallas, Forgney, and Elphin, which Dr. Stokes favours most. The last, indeed, has boldly asserted its right by the erection (1897) of a window in the church commemorating the event there in 1728, At Edgeworthstown (17 miles north-east) Goldsmith learnt the ''Three R's," as well as the village master's long store of ''stories about ghosts, banshees, and fairies." Once, alack! — on his journey between that place and his home — he "actually committed the blunder of his own Comedy, mistaking a squire's house for an inn." To enumerate, however, even the chief incidents of his life ; his unhappy time at Trinity College, his idleness at home, the final departure from his native land, when he was 24 years old ; to describe a career which passed from medical study to literary vagaries and philosophical vagabondism, oi the distressing restraint of a moneyless author, the ill-paid production of masterpieces such as the Vicar of Wakefield and of the " Deserted Village," and all the events of the life of that

    182 DUBLIN TO GALWAY

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Edgeworthstown now, in Longford. Seventeen miles north-east of Lissoy, this is where Goldsmith was sent to learn the three R's reading, writing, and arithmetic from the village schoolmaster. That master had another kind of learning to pass on too: a long store of stories about ghosts, banshees, and fairies. Goldsmith's father was the rector of Kilkenny West and farmed some 70 acres of the Lissoy Estate to add to his meagre resources. The poet lived much of his early life at Lissoy, though the claim to his birthplace is disputed by Pallas, Forgney, and Elphin. Dr. Stokes favoured Elphin most, and Elphin asserted its right in 1897 by erecting a window in the church to commemorate the event there in 1728. It was on the road between Edgeworthstown and his home that Goldsmith committed the famous blunder that later turned up in his own comedy. He mistook a squire's house for an inn. The source calls it the blunder of his own Comedy. His later life held unhappy years at Trinity College, idleness at home, and a final departure from his native land at 24 years old. He moved from medical study to literary work, wrote masterpieces such as the Vicar of Wakefield and the Deserted Village, and lived much of that time as a moneyless author.

50. Killala's Round Tower and 1798 rising

    Killala · town · Mayo · 1798

    Killala played a part in the 1798 disturbances. Its principal antiquity is a fine, complete Round Tower rising from amid the town's houses. The bishop's palace now forms part of the workhouse.

    Read the passage

    between Ballina and Killala, but is to it as a bow to its string. Killala (small hotel) played a part in the disturbances of 1798. The principal object of interest is the very fine and complete Round Tower which rises from the midst of the houses. The bishop's palace forms part of the workhouse. In the immediate neighbourhood of the town is the hill where the ancient princes of Inerughy and Tyrawley were crowned. Northwest from this a road of 10 miles leads to Ballycastle [Hotel), from which can be reached

    Downpatrick Head, 9 miles north of Killala, a succession of magnificent cliffs, well worthy of a visit. In ascending the Head visitors are startled by coming suddenly on a great chasm, caused by the surface of the hill having fallen in. Cautiously approaching this abyss, and looking down, the ocean is seen rolling in at a depth of 2000 feet, through a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is the town of Killala, which played its part in the disturbances of 1798. The principal thing to notice is the very fine and complete Round Tower, rising from the midst of the houses. The bishop's palace here now forms part of the workhouse. Just outside the town is the hill where the ancient princes of Tyrawley were once crowned.

51. Killaloe's ancient churches and Norman cathedral

    Killaloe · town · Clare · 400

    Killaloe is a very ancient town whose first church was founded in the 5th century by St. Dalua, succeeded by St. Flannan. The oldest church in the town is a small chapel with a high-pitched roof attributed to St. Flannan, and the Norman Cathedral features a massive tower and an elaborate Norman door that may have led to King O'Brien's tomb.

    Read the passage

    The first church was founded here in the 5th century by St. Dalua, who gave his name to the place, and was succeeded by Flannan in this bishopric. The oldest church in the town is the little chapel close to the cathedral, with a very high-pitched roof; this **Petrie considers ... to be attributed to St. Flannan" (Murray). The massive tower of the Norman Cathedral is that building's most striking feature ; the upper brown part with battlements is much later than the gray portion beneath. There is a very elaborate Norman Door

    200 LIMERICK TO OASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 19

52. White Abbey of Trinitarians nearly became a potato store

    Adare · townland · Limerick · 1299–1850

    The White Abbey of the Trinitarians at Adare was founded before 1299. At the beginning of the nineteenth century the church was used as a ball-alley and but for the second Earl would have become a potato store. It is now the Roman Catholic church with a massive central tower.

    Read the passage

    On the left (or west) as you come out of the Village Gate is the White Abbey of the Trinitarians, which was founded before 1299. The Church, which is now the R,C. Churchy was at the beginning of the century a ball-alley, and but for the good (second) Earl would have become a potato store. Its chief feature is the massive central tower. The spacious and good interior is beautified by the reredos screen.

    The adjoining Fountain was the gift of the (second) Countess, 1851.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 14

53. Tuam, ancient seat of Protestant archbishopric

    Tuam · town · Galway · 500–1834

    Tuam remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, tracing its importance back to the 6th-century saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery there. The town contains a fine ancient Cross with carvings described by Miss Stokes, including a Crucifixion, a bishop figure, and a funeral procession.

    Read the passage

    From Athenry it is 16 miles northwards to Tuam {Hotel: Guy's Imperial), a pleasant, and in some ways smart little town. On the other hand it looks the humblest of cities ; yet it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, and traces its importance back to the 6th- century saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient Cross with carvings, described thus by Miss Stokes : — '* Crucifixion on one side ; figure of a bishop on the other ; a funeral procession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work.

    The chief buildings in the town are the two Cathedrals, that of St. Mary (Church of Ireland) and that of St. Jarlath (Roman Catholic). The former carries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam. Of these ancient churches

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 21

54. Inis Clothrann and Queen Meave's palace site

    Inchcleraun · townland · Longford · 500

    Inis Clothrann (Quaker Island) in Lough Ree is named after the sister of Queen Meave. Her palace once stood on the highest point, and she was killed on the strand below by an Ulster chief's sling stone. Remains of seven churches can be traced, including Templemurry and Templedermot.

    Read the passage

    Among several interesting islands we may mention Inis Clothrann (or Quaker Island), named after the sister of Queen Mab (or Meave). On the highest point of it once stood that queen's palace, and it was on the sunny strand below that she was bathing when the cowardly Ulster chief struck her dead with a stone from his sling. Professor Stokes states that St. Dermot is said to have lived here about the year 500 ; and the remains of seven churches can be traced. One of these called Templemurry, is of large size ; it is said no woman could enter it and survive twelve months. The smallest Church is Templedermot, and the mcfet remarkable, standing some distance from the others, has a square tower (the only instance in Ireland of an ancient Celtic Church thus shaped), joined or bonded on to

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 5

55. Clifden town founded by D'Arcy

    Clifden · town · Galway · 1815

    As late as 1815 there was only a single house on the site of Clifden. Its origin was due to Mr. D'Arcy, who offered leases for ever with four acres of mountain land at twenty shillings per annum to attract settlers.

    Read the passage

    Clifden {Hotels: (C.) Lyden's ; (I.A.C., C.) Railway; McDonnell's). The town is dusty and uninteresting ; so late as the year 1815 there was only a single house on the site. Its origin is due to Mr. D' Arcy, who first pointed out the advantageous position, and offered "leases for ever, together with four acres of mountain land, at but a short distance from the projected town, at twenty shillings per annum." Clifden is favourably situated on a ridge at the head of the Bay of Ardbear, near the Atlantic coast, of which a fine view may be had from the neighbouring hills. The Owenglen river makes a picturesque cascade close to the town.

    The little town is overwhelmed both by the monster Workhouse and the huge Roman Catholic Cathedral. The latter has indeed a handsome spire ; but both these buildings are out of all proportion to the population here.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into Clifden, a town on a ridge at the head of the Bay of Ardbear, near the Atlantic coast. As late as 1815 there was only a single house on this site. The town owes its origin to Mr. D'Arcy. He pointed out the advantageous position and offered leases for ever, together with four acres of mountain land, at but a short distance from the projected town, at twenty shillings per annum. That was what drew settlers in. The Owenglen river makes a picturesque cascade close to the town, and from the neighbouring hills there is a fine view of the coast. The little town is overwhelmed both by the Workhouse and the Roman Catholic Cathedral. The cathedral has a handsome spire, but both buildings are out of all proportion to the population here.

56. King John's Castle, Limerick

    near King John's Castle · castle · Louth · 1199–1216

    King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John, stands at Thomond Bridge and is one of the most important surviving Norman fortresses in Ireland. Five massive towers connect high walls showing marks of shot and shell from centuries of sieges. The interior is now occupied by barracks.

    Read the passage

    King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John for the defence of English Town, is situated at Thomond Bridge. It is one of the most important specimens of the old Norman fortresses now existing in the country, being still in good preservation. Five massive towers are connected by high walls of great thickness and solidity. On the side facing the river the marks of shot and shell, made on the walls centuries ago during the dififerent sieges, are plainly visible from Thomond Bridge. The interior of the castle is occupied by barracks, the buildings of which, overlooking the walls, are very little in harmony with the older structure.

    St. Mary's Protestant Episcopal Cathedral, in English Town near New Bridge, is approached through a pleasant churchyard. On each side of the entrance path are the pinnacles of Ireton's House (or " Galwey's Castle"), which till late in the century stood here. It occupies the site of the palace of Donald More O'Brien, who, about the time of the arrival of the English, 1172 a.d., gave up certain of his lands "in free and perpetual alms" to Brictius, then Bishop of Limerick. The diocese of Limerick dates, however, from the 6th century, but the primitive cathedral, which occupied the site of the present St. Munchin's Church, was destroyed in the 9 th century.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 11

57. Pigeon Hole cavern near Cong

    Cong · town · Mayo

    The Pigeon Hole (Pollna-g-columb), about a mile from Cong, is a remarkable cavern through which the subterranean river linking Loughs Corrib and Mask flows. A descent of sixty steps leads into the cavern; a legend states that twelve sacred trout inhabit the pool.

    Read the passage

    through Lord Ardilaun's grounds, or by the public road, the distance from Cong being about a mile. The descent to the cavern is made by a flight of sixty steps. It is a curious sight to look upward on a sunny day and see the light glistening through the screen of foliage above. In winter, when the river is in flood, it covers the floor at the foot of the steps, so that there is no standing room beyond them. A legend states that twelve sacred trout inhabit the pool. Captain Webb's Cave figured in the tragic family history of that local Bluebeard.

    The distance from Cong to Leenane is about 27 miles. For a considerable distance we skirt the shores of Lough Corrib, of which there are good views. About midway we pass Carrick House, an anglers' hotel, almost on the shore of the loch. At Maam Bridge the road to Maam Station and Recess and Clifden, etc., goes off" over a bridge (left). The tiny white hotel here faces an amphitheatre of heights, the Maamturk Mountains being right opposite. The Leenane road passes between these and Joyces' country.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 43

58. Croagh Patrick: sacred mountain of St. Patrick

    near Croagh Patrick · mountain or mountain range · Mayo

    Croagh Patrick, popularly known as 'The Reek,' is regarded as sacred to St. Patrick, who was said to spend Lent there fasting and praying. A tradition holds that he collected all the serpents in Ireland on the summit and drove them into the sea. Pilgrims from all parts of Ireland climb it at certain seasons performing 'stations' as they ascend.

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    Croagh Patrick mountain (2510 feet). This is popularly known as '' The Reek," and is a height of unusual interest. The ascent may be made about 6 miles from Westport, opposite a bridge at the head of an inlet, close by St. Patrick's Church, Lecanvey ; or a mile farther on, at the back of the little hotel at Murrisk, itself called Croagh Patrick. As the ascent of the mountain is comparatively easy, entirely without danger except in mist, and by a clearly marked path, there is no necessity for the assistance of guides. Ponies can be taken threefourths of the way up the mountain. Croagh Patrick is regarded as sacred to St. Patrick. While sojourning in Connaught the saint was accustomed to spend Lent on the mountain fasting and praying. There is also a tradition that he collected together on the top of the mountain all the serpents in Ireland, and drove them thence into the sea, and a hollow in the mountain is pointed out as the place in which they endeavoured in vain to take refuge on their descent.

    The mountain, which is formed of quartzite, rises abruptly from the eastern margin of Clew Bay. Its cone-shaped summit, and its abrupt rise from the shore, lend to it an appearance of greater height than it actually possesses. On account of its connection with St. Patrick, it is celebrated as a place of religious pilgrimage, and at certain seasons it is climbed by pilgrims from all parts of Ireland, who "perform stations " as they ascend.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 36

59. Lough Conn and Lough Cullin reverse flow

    near Lough Conn · lake or lakes · Mayo

    Loughs Cullin and Conn are joined by a narrow strait crossed by a pontoon bridge. A singular phenomenon occurs: the lower lake (Lough Cullin) occasionally flows back into the upper lake (Lough Conn), despite the lake sitting about 40 feet above sea level with no tidal communication.

    Read the passage

    The first station after ManuUa is Foxford {Hotel : Coghlan's), on Lough Cullin, where, as on the Moy, there is excellent fishing. Loughs Cullin and Conn are joined by a narrow strait, crossed by a pontoon bridge. Leaving Foxford, a fine view is obtained of Lough Conn, a large sheet of water, being nearly 9 miles in length by about 1 to 3 in width. On the west side of it rises the great Nephin Mountain, with a finely-shaped conical summit, 2646 feet above the sea-level. It is a singular fact that there is occasionally a reverse flow of the Lower Lake, usually called Lough Cullin, into the upper, or Lough Conn proper. The lake is situated about 40 feet above the sea, and can have no tide communication with it. The banks are in many parts of fine sand, which indicates the high- water line. The shores of the Lower Lake, on the west side, abound in little bays and creeks, and show some bold outlines.

    Ballina (pron. Bal-e-ndr ; Hotels: (C) Imperial; Central; (I.A.C.) Moy ; all commercial. For cars see pink pages).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 45

60. Maynooth College established for Catholic priesthood

    Maynooth · town · Kildare · 1795–1869

    The Royal College of St. Patrick at Maynooth was instituted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to educate candidates for the Catholic priesthood due to difficulties during continental wars. It was extended and improved in 1846 from designs of Pugin and could accommodate over 500 students.

    Read the passage

    The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, extended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin. It has accommodation for over 500 students. The cloister is a fine specimen of Early English. The hall is a spacious and beautiful apartment, and there is a large library. The college was instituted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to provide education for candidates for the priesthood in the Roman Catholic Church, on account of the difficulty, during the continental wars, of Irish students frequenting the foreign universities. More than half the Roman Catholic clergy of Ireland now receive their education at it. Formerly it obtained an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000 ; but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 this was conmiuted by the payment of a capital sum fourteen times its amount. It is supported also by private donations and bequests, in addition to the entrance fees of the students.

    The Castle of Maynooth, adjoining the college, was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald, and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton, in the reign of Henry YIIL, but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the surrounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Maynooth, the Roman Catholic College stands in this town. The Irish Parliament founded it in 1795 to train candidates for the priesthood, because the continental wars had made it difficult for Irish students to attend foreign universities. Augustus Pugin extended and improved the building in 1846, giving it two quadrangles, a fine Early English cloister, a spacious hall, and a large library. It had room for over 500 students, and by the time of writing more than half of Ireland's Roman Catholic clergy were educated there. The college formerly received an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000, but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 this was commuted by a capital payment fourteen times that amount. It was also supported by private donations and bequests and by student entrance fees. Adjoining the college stood the Castle of Maynooth, founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. Sir William Brereton took it from Thomas Fitzgerald in the reign of Henry VIII, though it was later restored to the family. The keep and several towers still remain, with the surrounding fosse.