Guide to Galway, Connemara and the West of Ireland

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Roundstone: health resort with botanical treasures

   Roundstone · town · Galway

   Roundstone, on the west arm of Bertraghboy Bay, was described as one of the most health-giving resorts on the west coast. Rare botanical plants grew in profusion on Urrisbeg, and within a mile lay Gurteen Beaches and Dog's Bay, fine bathing places.

   Read the passage

   On the west arm of Bertraghboy Bay, 7 miles south of Ballynahinch, is Roundstone {Hotels : Mellet ; (C. ) Kinton (temp.)), one of the most health-giving resorts on the west coast. The view from the town is of considerable grandeur, the mountains seeming to rise from the sea. Rare botanical plants grow in profusion on Urrisbeg, and the purple blossoms of the gentian are seen everywhere. The place is very popular with artists. Within a mile of the town lie Gurteen Beaches and Dog's Bay which present a fine and safe bathing-place and are well worthy of a visit. In the summer there are two incoming mails daily.

   At the south end of Bertraghboy Bay lies St. Macdara's Island, 6 miles by sea from Roundstone. It can be also reached from Carna, some 5 miles west of Kilkieran pier. This to the archaeologist is the most interesting island between High Island and the Arans. It contains at the east point " one of the most typical of the ancient ecclesiastical structures we possess,"

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 31

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up is Roundstone, on the west arm of Bertraghboy Bay, seven miles south of Ballynahinch. It was called one of the most health-giving resorts on the west coast. The view from the town is of considerable grandeur, the mountains seeming to rise from the sea. Rare botanical plants grow in profusion on Urrisbeg, and the purple blossoms of the gentian are seen everywhere. The place is very popular with artists. Within a mile of the town lie Gurteen Beaches and Dog's Bay, which present a fine and safe bathing-place and are well worthy of a visit. In the summer there are two incoming mails daily. At the south end of Bertraghboy Bay lies St. Macdara's Island, six miles by sea from Roundstone. It can also be reached from Carna, some five miles west of Kilkieran pier. To the archaeologist it is the most interesting island between High Island and the Arans.

2. Sligo's founding and Civil War capture

   Sligo · town · Sligo · 1200–1699

   Recorded facts include the founding of the Monastery and Castle by Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare, in the 13th century. During the civil wars the town was captured by Parliamentary troops under Coote.

   Read the passage

   The history of Sligo begins with legend. When "Nuada of the Silver Hand " vanquished and killed the king of the Firbolgs, the royal corpse was buried in the Sligo strand, and it is fabled that "the tide will never cover it." Among recorded facts is the founding of the Monastery and Castle by B'itzgerald, Earl of Kildare, in the 13th century. In the civil wars the town was captured by the Parliamentary troops under Coote.

   The chief lion of the town is the Abbey of Sligo, founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414, but soon afterwards was reerected. The choir has a beautiful east window, of ' ' reticulated " tracery, still perfect ; the slender ringed shafts are a good feature. Under this is a very rare specimen of a stone altar ;

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 46

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Sligo, the history here stretches from legend to recorded fact. The story begins with Nuada of the Silver Hand, who vanquished and killed the king of the Firbolgs. The royal corpse was buried in the strand, and it is fabled that "the tide will never cover it." Among recorded facts, the Monastery and Castle were founded by Fitzgerald, Earl of Kildare, in the 13th century. The abbey was founded about 1252 by Maurice Fitzgerald, Lord Justice, and is now a fine ruin. It was consumed by fire in 1414 but was re-erected soon afterwards. The choir has a beautiful east window with reticulated tracery, still perfect, and beneath it sits a rare stone altar. During the civil wars, the town was captured by Parliamentary troops under Coote.

3. Clifden: oversized workhouse and cathedral

   Clifden · town · Galway

   The small town of Clifden was overwhelmed by both a monster workhouse and a huge Roman Catholic Cathedral, both out of all proportion to the population. The cathedral had a handsome spire but dominated the little town.

   Read the passage

   The little town is overwhelmed both by the monster Workhouse and the huge Roman Catholic Cathedral. The latter has indeed a handsome spire ; but both these buildings are out of all proportion to the population here.

   At the head of the two bays of Ardbear and Mannin, south of Clifden, are the well-known oyster beds belonging to Mr. Corless of Dublin.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 31

   As the companion tells it

   Up ahead is Clifden, in Galway. This little town is overwhelmed by two buildings far out of proportion to its population: a monster workhouse and a huge Roman Catholic cathedral. The cathedral does have a handsome spire, but still it dominates the place. South of the town, at the head of Ardbear and Mannin bays, are the well-known oyster beds belonging to Mr. Corless of Dublin.

4. Collooney and the proposed Belmullet railway link

   Collooney · townland · Sligo

   Collooney came into prominence in connection with a planned railway to Belmullet, intended to form a link in an 'All-Red Route' between Great Britain, Canada, and Australia. The new 90-mile line would terminate at Blacksod Bay, potentially saving 24 hours on the journey, with Belmullet Harbour described as one of the finest in Ireland.

   Read the passage

   Collooney has come into prominence in connection with the railway to Belmullet planned to form a link in the ''All-Red Route " between Great Britain, Canada, and Australia. The new line is 90 miles long, and the terminus is to be at Blacksod Bay. By this method it is reckoned that 24 hours can be saved on the journey. Belmullet Harbour is one of the finest in Ireland, and the new harbour works will adapt it to receive a line of ocean steamers.

   Having thus completed the tour of the cross-line between Limerick and Sligo, we may resume our journey westward from where we left it off at Athenry (p. 187) en route for Galway.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 22

5. Cong Franciscan Abbey and its surviving chapel

   Cong · town · Mayo · 1290–1537

   A Franciscan abbey built in 1290 in a picturesque spot at Cong, with a 15th-century tower bearing traceried windows. Though dissolved in 1537, friars remained nearby for roughly two centuries, and a chapel north of the tower is still used for Mass once a year.

   Read the passage

   Franciscan Abbey was built in 1290 in a picturesque situation ; and even after the dissolution in 1537 the faithful friars lingered round their home for two hundred years. The tower, with traceried windows, is graceful ; and on the north of it is a chapel still used once a year for celebration of Mass. The cast window of the chancel is of the same (15th century) date as the tower. The cloisters and friary buildings stood on the south side. The Castle was one of the Clanricarde foundations.

   At 5 miles we pass on the left the Incliacommaun islands, and shortly afterwards on our right Rabbit Island, where Lord Headley frequently camps. Further on, on the right, we see Annaghdown Castle and Abbey, both in ruins.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 42

6. Coronation hill of Inerughy and Tyrawley

   Killala · town · Mayo

   In the immediate neighbourhood of Killala is a hill where the ancient princes of Inerughy and Tyrawley were crowned. The bishop's palace nearby now forms part of the workhouse.

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   between Ballina and Killala, but is to it as a bow to its string. Killala (small hotel) played a part in the disturbances of 1798. The principal object of interest is the very fine and complete Round Tower which rises from the midst of the houses. The bishop's palace forms part of the workhouse. In the immediate neighbourhood of the town is the hill where the ancient princes of Inerughy and Tyrawley were crowned. Northwest from this a road of 10 miles leads to Ballycastle [Hotel), from which can be reached

   Downpatrick Head, 9 miles north of Killala, a succession of magnificent cliffs, well worthy of a visit. In ascending the Head visitors are startled by coming suddenly on a great chasm, caused by the surface of the hill having fallen in. Cautiously approaching this abyss, and looking down, the ocean is seen rolling in at a depth of 2000 feet, through a subterranean passage called the Poulashantana.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 46

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Killala, you are near a hill where the ancient princes of Inerughy and Tyrawley were once crowned. The town itself played a part in the disturbances of 1798. Its principal object of interest is a very fine and complete Round Tower that rises from the midst of the houses. The bishop's palace nearby now forms part of the workhouse.

7. Glencar: glen of the pillar-stone near Sligo

   Glencar · electoral division · Leitrim

   Glencar, meaning 'the glen of the pillar-stone,' lies eight miles from Sligo and is smaller than Lough Gill but makes a delightful round. On its north side is Mrs. Siberry's unique tea-house, and a path behind the cottage leads to the 'Swiss Valley.'

   Read the passage

   Glencar ('*the glen of the pillar-stone"), is 8 miles from Sligo, smaller, and not so beautiful as Lough Gill, but it makes a delightful round nevertheless. On the north side is Mrs. Siberry's tea-house, of a kind unique in Ireland. Mrs. Siberry, who is known far and wide, is an adept at home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes, baked in a "pot-oven." Her milk and cream are in keeping, and let no one think they have "done" the neighbourhood of Sligo until they have had tea here. While those who want to live the " simple life," in its most attractive form, will do well to secure accommodation, which is very limited, long beforehand.

   From the cottage a short rise leads to

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 47

8. Glin Castle, seat of the Knight of Glin

   Glin · town · Limerick

   Glin is described as a bright, well-built village on the Shannon opposite Labasheeda Bay. Glin Castle has been for centuries the seat of the Knight of Glin, called the Red Knight, a branch of the Fitzgerald family.

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   Glin Castle has been for centuries the seat of the Knight of Glin, called the " Red Knight," to distinguish this branch of the Fitzgerald family from those of the White Knight, and the Black Knight (of Kerry).

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 15

9. Killery Harbour name and red dye tradition

   Killary Harbour · estuary · Galway

   Killery means 'red valley,' well-deserved as the rocks on every side have a reddish-purple tinge. A rich red dye for homespun woollen is in great favour with local women and girls, adding bright colour to the foreground of many a fine view.

   Read the passage

   Thus we pass along Killery which means *'red valley" and the name is well-deserved, as the rocks on every side have a curious, reddish-purple tinge, giving the impression of blooming heather. Also here, more than elsewhere, a rich red dye for their home- spun woollen is in great favour with women and girls, and many a fine view is touched up in the foreground by a flaming bit of colour. The local industries are crochet-lace and tweeds, specimens of which, both in the process of manufacture and as the finished article, can be seen at Leenane.

   The direct road [good cycling) from Letterfrack tol Leenane, a distance of 12J miles, after passing the Post Office, and for a mile and a half, consists of an avenue of fuchsias of unusual height and flower. We have never seen this shrub growing in greater luxuriance in our islands ; not even in the Port Erin country in the Isle of Man. The air at Letterfrack is of that mild freshness characteristic of the neighbourhood. The little town lies between the Twelve Pins and the sea.

   Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 34

   As the companion tells it

   You are coming along Killary Harbour now. The name means red valley, and it is well-earned. The rocks on every side carry a curious reddish-purple tinge, so the whole place looks as though heather were blooming across it. More than elsewhere along this coast, a rich red dye for homespun wool is in great favour here with women and girls. Many a fine view across the harbour is touched up in the foreground by a flaming bit of that colour against the dark rock. The local industries are crochet-lace and tweeds, and specimens of both can be seen at Leenane, in process and finished. The direct road from Letterfrack to Leenane runs about 12 and a half miles. After passing the Post Office, for a mile and a half it becomes an avenue of fuchsias of unusual height and flower, growing in greater luxuriance than anywhere else in these islands. Letterfrack itself lies between the Twelve Pins and the sea.

10. King of Greece visits Delphi during Royal tour

    Doolough · townland · Mayo · 1903

    During the Royal tour of Ireland in 1903, the King of Greece paid a special visit to Delphi. Princess Victoria and the Lord-Lieutenant spent time fishing the river and lake, with the Royal party afterwards taking tea at the Lodge.

    Read the passage

    is the Rev. E. Spencer Gough, rector of Barningham, Yorkshire. The road from Leenane around by Aasleagh and Delphi to the upper end of Dhulough offers a delightful cycling run, and includes some mountain and sea views not to be surpassed in the British Isles. During the Royal tour in Ireland, in 1903, the King of Greece paid a special visit to Delphi, Princess Victoria and the Lord- Lieutenant spending some time in fishing the river and lake, the Royal party afterwards taking tea at the Lodge. The house overlooking Dhulough is an attractive feature on going through the Delphi pass. It was here that Walsham How, the late Bishop of Wakefield, died while on a fishing holiday in 1 897. The road which branches off to the right just below Dhulough is a rather rough road, but the views of Tanyard Lake, and in the Sheffry Pass, are of a wild, and it might be said, magnificent character. It is the most attractive route from Delphi, and also the shorter to Westport, and is by no means impassable for a carriage and pair. The district is known as the Barony of Murrisk, a very ancient name, a corruption of a word meaning a sea-marsh.

    Louisburgh (21 miles from Leenane and 14 from Westport ; Hotels: {I.A.C., C.) M'Dermott's (small, modern); (0.) M'Girr's (also small)) is a dull village of 400 inhabitants, within a mile of the sea, and as free as Athenry from all attempt to adorn itself with outward attraction. There is salmon fishing in the rivers near for 10s. a day. Boats can be had to visit Clare Island, to which it is the nearest point. Its only piece of antiquity is the disused chapel, now converted to secular uses.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 36

11. Limerick lace-making industry revived

    Limerick · city · Limerick

    Limerick was famous for lace-making, an industry that experienced a period of depression before being revived. The city was also a busy industrial centre with flour-mills, bacon-curing, and butter and cream factories.

    Read the passage

    Limerick is not a tourist town, and its hotels are purely commercial. It is, however, a busy industrial town possessing large flour-mills, bacon-curing establishments, butter and cream factories, etc. The lace-making for which it used to be famous has been revived after a time of depression. The Shannon Fisheries Company own the important salmon fisheries, and there is scarcely any rod-fishing for strangers. As a shipping port the town ranks fourth in Ireland. It is a garrison town, and last but not least its reputation for pretty girls is amply demonstrated by facts. By adopting electric lighting, and in its fine technical schools, its Carnegie free library and public museum, the authorities show signs of care for the citizens' welfare.

    Limerick is finely situated on both banks of the Shannon, at the head of the inlet known as the Lower Shannon, and is a good centre for the Lower Shannon scenery. It became the capital of the Danes, who were expelled from it by Brian Boroirahe. From 1106 until 1174, when it was conquered by the English, it w^as the capital of the kings of Thomond or North Munster.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Limerick, you are in a busy industrial city rather than a tourist town. It has large flour-mills, bacon-curing establishments, and butter and cream factories. The lace-making for which Limerick used to be famous has been revived after a time of depression. The Shannon Fisheries Company own the important salmon fisheries here, and there is scarcely any rod-fishing for strangers. The town ranks fourth in Ireland as a shipping port and serves as a garrison town as well. It sits finely on both banks of the Shannon, at the head of the inlet known as the Lower Shannon. Limerick became the capital of the Danes, who were expelled from it by Brian Boroimhe. From 1106 until 1174, when it was conquered by the English, it was the capital of the kings of Thomond or North Munster.

12. Salmon at the weir from New Bridge

    New Bridge · bridge · Meath

    Salmon abound in the River Corrib and can often be seen from the parapet of New Bridge lying in great numbers waiting to ascend the weir. At the spawning season this is described as one of the sights of Galway.

    Read the passage

    There is good salmon-fishing free on Lough Corrib, but in the town all the water below the weir is preserved. Anglers who apply for a permit for trout-fishing are usually granted it, but pay about 15s. a day to fish for salmon. Salmon abound in the River Corrib, and may often be seen from the parapet of New Bridge lying in great numbers as close together as the fingers of the hand, waiting to ascend the weir. At the spawning season this is one of the sights of Galway.

    Galway presents a curious combination of dilapidation and decay, with signs of improvement and moderate prosperity. Some immense warehouses, comparatively modern, have been for several years unoccupied, and are slowly going to ruin, and in nearly every street untenanted and roofless houses suggest the "impression of a city sacked and ruined."

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Right here at New Bridge, you can often see salmon in the River Corrib, lying in great numbers below the weir, waiting to ascend it. The guide describes them packed as close together as the fingers of your hand. There is good salmon-fishing free on Lough Corrib, though all the water below the weir in the town is preserved. Anglers who apply for a trout-fishing permit usually get one, but pay about 15 shillings a day to fish for salmon. At the spawning season, the sight of all those fish gathered here is counted among the sights of Galway.

13. St John's RC Cathedral spire and Benzoni statue in Limerick

    Limerick · city · Limerick

    St John's Roman Catholic Cathedral in Limerick is adorned by one of the handsomest spires in Ireland. Within is a dark stone reredos and a beautiful marble statue by Benzoni of the Virgin Mary, described as perhaps the work of art in Limerick.

    Read the passage

    St. John's Roman Catholic Cathedral is reached from St. Mary's Cathedral by Mary and John Streets. It is adorned by one of the handsomest spires in Ireland, and, within, by a dark and elaborate stone rercdos over the great altar. Between the south altars is a very beautiful marble statue by Benzoni of the Virgin Mary — perhaps the work of art in Limerick.

    The best of the other churches is that of the RedemptoHsts, a short walk southwards along George's Street and Military Road. This large building contains in the north aisle a bronze statue of St. Peter (?), with toes polished to an unusual extent by a curious means.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Limerick, St John's Roman Catholic Cathedral stands out for its spire, called one of the handsomest in Ireland. Inside, over the great altar, there is a dark and elaborate stone reredos. Between the south altars stands a marble statue by Benzoni of the Virgin Mary, described as perhaps the work of art in Limerick. The cathedral is reached from St Mary's Cathedral by Mary and John Streets. The Redemptorists' church, a short walk south along George's Street and Military Road, holds a bronze statue of St Peter in its north aisle, with toes polished by a curious means.

14. Granuaile Castle on Clare Island

    Clare Island · electoral division · Mayo

    The tower of Granuaile Castle, the ancient residence of Grace O'Malley, stands above the harbour on the east side of Clare Island. Grace O'Malley became leader of her clan and was first married to O'Flaherty, Prince of Connemara, then to Sir Richard Bourke.

    Read the passage

    Glare Island, at the mouth of the bay, has an area of 3949 acres, and its highest elevation is the Hill of Knock (1520 feet) presenting bold and precipitous cliffs to the Atlantic. The island is most conveniently visited from Achill Sound. Of the Cistercian Abbey, founded in 1224, there are remains in Avhich may be seen some fragments of fresco paintings and the so-called tomb of Grace O'Malley. Notice the coat of arms, bearing a boar and the motto ( — of the Royal Marines !). The tower of Granuaile Castle, the ancient residence of the celebrated Grace O'Malley, is situated above the harbour on the east. This lady became the leader of her clan, and eventually gained the title of" Grace of the Heroes." She was first married to O'Flaherty, Prince of Connemara, and on his decease to Sir Richard Bourke. *' Tradition," says Otway, "hands down a singular item of the marriage-contract. The marriage was to last /or certain but one year, and if at the end of that period either said to the other,

    232 CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 37

15. Mrs. Siberry's tea-house at Glencar

    Glencar · electoral division · Leitrim

    Mrs. Siberry's tea-house on the north side of Glencar is described as unique in Ireland. Mrs. Siberry is renowned for home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes baked in a pot-oven, with matching milk and cream, and offers very limited accommodation for the 'simple life.'

    Read the passage

    Glencar ('*the glen of the pillar-stone"), is 8 miles from Sligo, smaller, and not so beautiful as Lough Gill, but it makes a delightful round nevertheless. On the north side is Mrs. Siberry's tea-house, of a kind unique in Ireland. Mrs. Siberry, who is known far and wide, is an adept at home-made bread, scones, and sponge cakes, baked in a "pot-oven." Her milk and cream are in keeping, and let no one think they have "done" the neighbourhood of Sligo until they have had tea here. While those who want to live the " simple life," in its most attractive form, will do well to secure accommodation, which is very limited, long beforehand.

    From the cottage a short rise leads to

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 47

16. Achill Island poverty and living conditions

    near Achill Island · island or archipelago · Mayo

    Many inhabitants of Achill Island lived in chronic poverty, dwelling in huts of rough cobbles and turf. Relief work in road-making was provided in winter, and the lace industry had grown as a staple home occupation.

    Read the passage

    energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the interior of Ireland. As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic state of poverty, a fact suflBciently evident from a glance at the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in other parts of the country, the standard of living has improved. Relief work in the shape of road-making is given in the winter. The lace industry has grown, the Carrickmacross lace-making being the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour is in demand, especially is this the case in regard to the potato crops in Dumfries, " tatie coppers," as they are called, going over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, therefore a large proportion of the time of the natives is taken up in "herding" the stock. Peat-preserving also takes up many hours of labour, as an old dame said, ''It's the wan blessing we have, but what w^ith the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it ! " In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound.

    The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of the fact of its almost treeless condition, and the heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rockfringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 39

17. Ashford House demesne and abbey restoration

    Ashford · townland · Galway

    Ashford House, the seat of Lord Ardilaun, is situated in a wooded bay about two miles from Cong. The nearby abbey ruins were carefully restored by Sir Benjamin Guinness, Lord Ardilaun's father, who rebuilt part of the cloister arcade.

    Read the passage

    Ashford House (Lord Ardilaun) is well seen as the steamer sweeps round into the little wooded bay, but not a vestige of the village appears. It is in fact about 2 miles away to the left. Cong {Hotels : (C) Clare Arms ; Ryan's ; both small but clean) has many attractions, bringing sight-seers from all over the world. The sights include the abbey, demesne grounds and caves. The abbey is partly situated in the grounds of Lord Ardilaun {admission at the cottage left of the carved gateivay). The ruins received careful attention at the hands of Sir Benjamin Guinness, the father of Lord Ardilaun, who placed them under proper control and^rebuilt some of the cloister arcade.

    238 GALWAY TO CLIFDEN

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 42

18. High Island: degraded monastic cells

    High Island · townland · Galway

    Since Petrie's day the monastic cells or clochans on High Island had been shamefully destroyed, with only two still standing. A Holy Well in the centre of the island still received pilgrims' offerings, indicating its ancient fame.

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    The island is only accessible in calm weather, and then the landing (at the north-east) is difficult. The Chapel, the principal ruin, is at the south end near the larger loughlet. As it is 3 feet longer than Molaise's Chapel on Inismurray, it is not quite the smallest chapel in the British Isles. The lintel over the west door was once a " monumental cross," and the most interesting cross here is on the south side. Since Petrie's day the place has been shamefully destroyed ; the cells or clochans of the monastery have suffered much, and only two now stand. Though the existence of the monks' mill may be disputed, the pilgrims' offerings sufficiently indicate the ancient fame of the Holy Well, in the centre of the island.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 32

19. Sligo Roman Catholic Cathedral: modern Romanesque building

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    The Roman Catholic Cathedral in Sligo is described as one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, Romanesque in character, with a massive tower of chimes, a striking triforium, and a symbolic winged angel over the east apse. A well-carved statue of St. Patrick adorns an outer building.

    Read the passage

    In another part of the town are St. John's Church, a fine stone building with an uncommon east window, and the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral. The splendid carillon of chimes of the Cathedkal will have been heard before reaching it. This is one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, and Romanesque in character — a style uncommon in recent work. (Notice, in passing, the well-carved statue of St. Patrick on the wall of an outer building.) The tower containing the chimes is massive ; and the winged angel over the east apse is a remarkable symbolic figure — not of Peace. Owing to the lack of carved ornament within, the bare forms of this style are unrelieved, and the whole effect, though dignified, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and lofty triforium.

    Among other advantages of the neighbourhood, there is good sea-bathing, with accommodation, at Rosses Point, 4 or 5 miles away, and also a capital 18-hole golf course with a club-house.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Sligo town, you may hear the splendid carillon of chimes from the Roman Catholic Cathedral before you see it. It is one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, Romanesque in character, a style uncommon in recent work. The tower holding the chimes is massive, and the winged angel over the east apse is a remarkable symbolic figure, described in the guide as not of Peace. A well-carved statue of St. Patrick stands on the wall of an outer building. Inside, the lack of carved ornament leaves the bare forms of the style unrelieved, and the whole effect, though dignified, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and lofty triforium.

20. Thomond Bridge on ancient crossing site

    Thomond Bridge · street · Limerick

    Thomond Bridge connects English Town with County Clare, occupying the site of a very ancient structure. On the Clare side stands the Treaty Stone. King John's Castle sits at the Clare end of the bridge.

    Read the passage

    Bridges. — English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Matliew {Killarney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occupying the site of a bridge of great antiquity, Thomond Bridge, also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects English town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the bridge stands the "Treaty Stone" mentioned above.

    By far the most inxpressive view of the town is that having the Treaty Stone in the foreground and looking back across the river at the walls of the castle, with the cathedral tower rising to the right.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    Along here, Thomond Bridge crosses from English Town into County Clare, on the site of a very ancient structure. On the Clare side stands the Treaty Stone. Looking back across the river from that stone, you have what the guide calls the most impressive view of the town, with the castle walls and the cathedral tower rising beyond them.

21. Ginckell's House, North Gate Street, Athlone

    Athlone · town · Westmeath · 1691

    Ginckell's House stands at the corner of North Gate Street in Athlone. It is said the Dutch general Ginckell, described as having no idea of chivalry, lived there during the siege of 1691.

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    The walls, built about 300 years ago, have mostly disappeared, but besides the castle fort several historic buildings remain. There is Ginckell's House, at the corner of North gate Street, in which it is said the Dutchman — the famous general ** who

    180 DUBLIN TO GALWAY

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    Athlone's old walls, built about 300 years ago, have mostly disappeared, though the castle fort still stands. During the 1691 siege, batteries lined the river bank on what is now Strand Street. At the corner of North Gate Street, Ginckell's House is said to be where the Dutch general lived through the siege.

22. Captain Boycott's ruined home near Keem Bay

    Keem Bay · bay · Mayo

    Not far from Keem Bay on Achill Island was the home of the well-known Captain Boycott, which by 1912 had fallen into ruins.

    Read the passage

    To the south of Slievemore is the semicircular Keem Bay, where there is a salmon fishery. Here are picked up the Achill amethysts, much sought after and becoming rarer. Not far off was the home of the well-known Captain Boycott, now in ruins.

    To see the island properly it is necessary to run right round the south end by some means or another, following the grandly named ''Atlantic Drive," a very rough road, degenerating at times on the western side into a mere grass-grown mountain track, with one zigzag and precipitous descent. There is no doubt whatever that this road will soon be greatly improved and form one of the features of the island. The views from the south end looking down Achill Sound are bewilderingly beautiful. The giant Corraun peninsula near at hand, the hills of Murrisk behind, and the heights of Clare island to the west, blending in a grand panorama. The rock-fringed shore on the west recalls parts of Cornwall. From the tiny hamlet of Dooagh the famous Meenaun Cliffs may be visited. Dooagh is a miserable little place, with many houses tumbling in ruin, and the rest with their unmortared stone and thatch roofs weighted by stones of a poor kind. If the tide is low the cliffs may be seen by taking a longish walk on the sands, but if high the only way is to follow one of the numerous paths between the peasants' neatly cultivated holdings and breast the hill to the turf -cutting colony above — very rough walking — after this there is a stretch of slippery heather -grown upland, but neither so steep nor rough as what has preceded it ; the total distance from the village is about 1^ miles. The Cliffs are 1000 feet in height, and as they are totally unguarded, care must be taken in the approach. They are not vertical, but razor-edged and streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves has hollowed out some into the semblance of great arches known as the Cathedral Cliffs.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 40

23. Cave of Kilkee and its mineral formations

    Kilkee · town · Clare

    The Cave of Kilkee, about two miles from the town, is best visited by boat from the harbour, giving views of cliff scenery. Its arched entrance stands about sixty feet high, with stalactites and rich metallic tinges from minerals held in solution by the water.

    Read the passage

    The Cave of Kilkee is about 2 miles from the town, and is best visited by boat from the harbour, a fine view being in this way obtained of the cliff scenery along the shore. The arched entrance to the cave is about 60 feet in height. Our attention is at once attracted by the numerous jutting rocks, the stalactites depending from the roof, and the *' variety of rich metallic tinges from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water." As we proceed into the cave it gradually diminishes in height.

    The walks along the coast are of great interest, especially southwards. The dark rocks of chipping flakes, hollowed beneath and broken into fantastic shapes by the waves, form a grand setting to the luminous blues, greens, and snowy foam of the Atlantic breakers.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Kilkee, the famous cave here lies about 2 miles from the town, best reached by boat from the harbour. The arched entrance stands about 60 feet high, and you are drawn straight away to the stalactites hanging from the roof and the rich metallic tinges from copper, iron, and other minerals held in the water. The cave gradually narrows as you go deeper inside. The coastal walks are well worth it too, especially heading south, where dark rocks broken into fantastic shapes by the Atlantic form a grand setting for the luminous blues, greens, and snowy foam of the breakers.

24. Lisdoonvarna spa and mineral springs

    Lisdoonvarna · townland · Clare

    Lisdoonvarna is described as one of the most frequented spas of Ireland, with iron, sulphur, and chalybeate springs. The 'twin-springs' of iron and sulphur rise within inches of each other, and the town offers pump-house, public bath-house, and specialised hot-air and electric baths at establishments like Thomond House.

    Read the passage

    (I.A.C., C.) Atlantic Yiew ; Royal Spa ; Kincona ; Glenbourne ; Lynch's) is one of the most frequented spas of Ireland, and increasing in popularity. It is not in any way a tourist resort, but extraordinarily beneficial to invalids, especially those suffering from arthritis and rheumatism. Springs of iron, sulphur and with chalybeate qualities have been discovered. The " twin- springs " of iron and sulphur rise within a few inches of each other. There is a pump-house and public bath-house, and at some of the hotels, as at Thomond House, there are special arrangements for hot-air baths and electric baths for special cures. Thomond House is not exactly an hotel, but resembles the hydropathic establishments so popular in Scotland. It is famed for its flowers, and, under the management of its proprietress, Mrs. Bulger, a lady well-known in society, is achieving a unique position. Terms from 3 guineas a week.

    The whole district is a botanist's paradise, and in many of the rocks here and on the sea-coast are sheltered crevices which by their retained heat foster many rare specimens.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 27

25. Sarsfield statue behind Roman Catholic Cathedral

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1881

    A statue of General Sarsfield was erected in 1881 behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Limerick, commemorating the defender of the city during the sieges of 1690–1691.

    Read the passage

    In the PeopU^s Parh^ south-west of the railway station, is a monument to Spring Rice — a lofty Ionic column surmounted by a statue. At the junction of Glentworth Street with Upper Baker Street there is a handsome Clock-Tower, erected in 1867 in honour of Alderman Tait. A statue of General Sarsfield was erected in 1881 behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral.

    King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John for the defence of English Town, is situated at Thomond Bridge. It is one of the most important specimens of the old Norman fortresses now existing in the country, being still in good preservation. Five massive towers are connected by high walls of great thickness and solidity. On the side facing the river the marks of shot and shell, made on the walls centuries ago during the dififerent sieges, are plainly visible from Thomond Bridge. The interior of the castle is occupied by barracks, the buildings of which, overlooking the walls, are very little in harmony with the older structure.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    As Limerick comes up on the road, behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral there stands a statue of General Sarsfield, erected in 1881. It commemorates the defender of the city during the sieges of 1690 and 1691. Sarsfield held Limerick through those years of assault, and the statue was raised in his honour, placed behind the cathedral, more than a hundred and eighty years after the sieges themselves.

26. Clonmacnoise: ecclesiastical ruins on the Shannon

    Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly

    Clonmacnoise, meaning 'Retreat of the Sons of the Noble,' is a celebrated group of ecclesiastical ruins on the Shannon, best approached by water from Athlone. The grey stone buildings with tall sentinel towers stand amid green mounds by the river.

    Read the passage

    Far the best approach is by water, as the road curves round a long C, goes from bad to worse, and gives no sight of the ruins until you almost drop down on them. By water you get an admirable picture, the grey stone buildings, with the tall sentinel towers, standing amid green mounds, with the river lapping at their feet. On the right is the extraordinary ruin

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 6

27. Glacial geology of Killary Harbour and the Erriff valley

    Killary Harbour · estuary · Galway

    The Erriff river valley widens into the Greater Killory or 'red fiord,' a remarkable inlet 12 miles long with striking glacial phenomena including grooved rocks and moraine boulders. Sheets of lava and ash along the south shore-road provide evidence of volcanic action.

    Read the passage

    The valley of the Erriff river, which at Leenane is deepened and widened into the Greater Killory or "red fiord," is of considerable interest to the geologist, who will doubtless have at hand the descriptions of Harkness and Hull. It is sufficient here to remind the general tourist that in this remarkable inlet, 12 miles in length, " the glacial phenomena are very striking," and the rocks are ** scored with groovings pointing down the valley, while masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore," and that, like the Estuary of the Shannon and Cork harbour, it was, during the Ice Age, a much shallower valley, and a " channel of fresh water." Old * ' Mountain terraces " may be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley, and along the road to Cong ; and at the head of the harbour the lines of *' river terraces " are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shoreroad are proofs of volcanic action.

    Of the two favourite excursions that to Kylemore, if not already included in the journey from the west, is the most popular (see p. 226).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into Killary Harbour, a remarkable inlet 12 miles long, where the Erriff river valley deepens and widens into what was once called the Greater Killory, the red fiord. The glacial phenomena here are very striking. The rocks are scored with groovings pointing down the valley, and masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore. During the Ice Age this was a much shallower valley and a channel of fresh water, like the Estuary of the Shannon and Cork Harbour. Mountain terraces can be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley and along the road to Cong, and at the head of the harbour the lines of river terraces are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shore road are proofs of volcanic action.

28. 'Irish Stonehenge': ancient stones in deer-park north of Lough Gill

    near Lough Gill · lake or lakes · Kerry

    In the deer-park north of Lough Gill is a collection of ancient stones sometimes called the Irish Stonehenge. The author notes it is rather out of the way and could not be seen well during the described round of the lake.

    Read the passage

    At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place, north of Drumcliff Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely shown to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the w^ay, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

    The Road to Bundoran (the only driving connection is the mail-car which starts at 6 A.M. and has a seat for one passenger) runs northwards round the western foot of Benbulbin, and passes, in 11 miles, through Grange, the best boat-landing for Inismurray.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Up here near Lough Gill there's a collection of ancient stones in the deer-park, sometimes called the Irish Stonehenge. The author of the old guide calls it rather out of the way and says it could not be seen very well during the round of the lake. So if you don't catch a glimpse of standing stones as you pass, that may be why. The same writer mentions bulb farms and Alpine gardens at Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place, north of Drumcliff Bay, freely shown to visitors, though that lies a bit beyond this stretch.

29. Newtown-Pery founded by Sexton Pery

    Newtown Pery · population centre · Limerick · 1769

    The prosperity of Limerick dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769. This part of the city contains the better streets, laid out with near American-style regularity.

    Read the passage

    The portion on "King's island" called English Town was founded in the reign of King John by William de Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifications were extended to Irish Town south of it. The city in 1651 was taken by General Ireton. William III.'s siege of 1690, owing chiefly to Sarsfield's energetic defence, was raised ; but 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sarsfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way in which the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769.

    Bridges. — English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Matliew {Killarney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occupying the site of a bridge of great antiquity, Thomond Bridge, also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects English town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the bridge stands the "Treaty Stone" mentioned above.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Newtown Pery, the part of Limerick where the city's prosperity began. It was founded by Sexton Pery in 1769, and its streets were laid out with a regularity that was almost American in its straightness. Before this, Limerick's story ran through centuries of siege and broken promises. English Town on King's Island was founded under King John by William de Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. General Ireton took the city in 1651. William the Third's siege of 1690 was raised thanks to Sarsfield's energetic defence, but 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sarsfield signed upon the Treaty Stone the document that bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way the English side kept the bargain is indicated by the name, the City of the Violated Treaty. New or Mathew Bridge and Ball's Bridge connect English Town to this part of the city.

30. Seasonal migration from Achill to Britain

    near Achill Island · island or archipelago · Mayo

    Large numbers of Achill Islanders migrated temporarily to England and Scotland for agricultural labour, particularly for potato harvesting in Dumfries. These workers were known as 'tatie coppers' and went over in their hundreds.

    Read the passage

    energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the interior of Ireland. As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic state of poverty, a fact suflBciently evident from a glance at the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in other parts of the country, the standard of living has improved. Relief work in the shape of road-making is given in the winter. The lace industry has grown, the Carrickmacross lace-making being the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour is in demand, especially is this the case in regard to the potato crops in Dumfries, " tatie coppers," as they are called, going over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, therefore a large proportion of the time of the natives is taken up in "herding" the stock. Peat-preserving also takes up many hours of labour, as an old dame said, ''It's the wan blessing we have, but what w^ith the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it ! " In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound.

    The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of the fact of its almost treeless condition, and the heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rockfringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 39

31. Sligo town: prosperity and public buildings

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    Sligo is described as one of the most prosperous-looking places in Ireland, built on both sides of the River Garavogue with well-built, well-brushed streets, good shops, and fine public buildings including the Town Hall, Court House, and a stone National School covered with rose-trees.

    Read the passage

    Sligo is one of the most prosperous-looking places in Ireland. It is built on both sides of the River Garavogue. Its streets are not only well built, but they are well brushed ; there are good shops, and also some fine public buildings, including the Town Hall, the Court House, and a wonderful stone National School covered with rose-trees. There are two bridges near together and at right angles to one another owing to the bend in the river, and the abbey and cathedral mentioned below are worth a visit.

    The town and its pleasant surroundings deserve to be better known than they are, especially as there are numerous excursions to be made, some of them being of quite unusual interest ; the scenery of Loughs Gill and Glencar is charming, and should certainly be seen by every tourist in western Ireland. For those again with antiquarian tastes, it is a land of plenty, as there are many ruins and prehistoric remains in the district. (See Journal of R. S. Ant. Ireland^ 1896).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Sligo, you're passing through one of the most prosperous-looking towns in Ireland, built on both sides of the River Garavogue with streets that are well built and well brushed, good shops, and fine public buildings including the Town Hall, the Court House, and a stone National School covered with rose-trees. Two bridges stand near together at right angles owing to a bend in the river, and the abbey and cathedral are worth a visit. The town deserves to be better known, with charming scenery at Loughs Gill and Glencar and many ruins and prehistoric remains in the district for those with antiquarian tastes.

32. Teampull Murry on Inishmaan

    near Illaunane · townland · Galway · 1400–1499

    Teampull Murry, or St. Mary's Church, is a 15th-century church on Inishmaan. The site is also associated with the saint Kenerg, whose 'bed' is located there.

    Read the passage

    Inishmaan, or Middle Island, is divided by Gregory Sound, about li mile in width. Dun Conor ^ named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious oval shape, and, though terribly " restored," is a fine fort. The story of Mailly, the murderer, should be learnt from a native. Teavipull Murry i (St. Mary's Church) is of 15th-century date. The saint Kenerg, whose " bed " is here, was the brother of the lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Church, with an uncommon west door, may be dedicated.

    On South Island, the most interesting of several early ruins, is St. Cavan's Church, named alter the brother of Kevin of Glendalough, and the disciple of Enda.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 26

33. Turf-laden boats at Achill Sound

    Achill Sound · town · Mayo

    At the height of peat-cutting in May, a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats could be seen going up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound. Peat was the one blessing of the islanders but required cutting, spreading, stacking and carrying.

    Read the passage

    energy to develop them, and swifter communication with the interior of Ireland. As it is, many of the inhabitants are in a chronic state of poverty, a fact suflBciently evident from a glance at the huts of rough cobbles and turf in which they dwell ; but here, as in other parts of the country, the standard of living has improved. Relief work in the shape of road-making is given in the winter. The lace industry has grown, the Carrickmacross lace-making being the staple work of many a home. There is a good deal of temporary migration to England and Scotland in seasons when agricultural labour is in demand, especially is this the case in regard to the potato crops in Dumfries, " tatie coppers," as they are called, going over in their hundreds. In Achill there are no fences and few even of the rough stone walls forming boundaries, therefore a large proportion of the time of the natives is taken up in "herding" the stock. Peat-preserving also takes up many hours of labour, as an old dame said, ''It's the wan blessing we have, but what w^ith the cutting and spreading and stacking and carrying, there's a deal of work to it ! " In the height of the peat-cutting in May it is a sight to see a fleet of as many as eighty turf-laden boats go up with the flooding tide at Achill Sound.

    The scenery of Achill is most beautiful, in spite of the fact of its almost treeless condition, and the heights of the near islands and the mainland seen as a background to its own rockfringed bays or stupendous cliffs would lead even the most prosaic person to enthusiasm.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Achill Sound in Mayo, you are travelling the channel where, every May, the island's great labour reached the water. At the height of peat-cutting season, as many as 80 turf-laden boats would go up with the flooding tide here, carrying the fuel that kept the island alive. An old woman summed up what peat meant to Achill. She said, "It's the wan blessing we have," but then listed what it cost: the cutting, the spreading, the stacking, the carrying. It was relentless work. The boats were only one part of a hard life. Many islanders lived in huts of rough cobbles and turf, in a chronic state of poverty, though the standard of living had improved. Relief road-making was given in winter. Carrickmacross lace-making had become the staple work of many homes. There were no fences and few stone walls, so people spent large parts of their time herding stock by hand. Hundreds crossed to England and Scotland for the potato harvest in Dumfries, called "tatie coppers." The scenery here, almost treeless, was still beautiful, with near islands and mainland heights rising behind rock-fringed bays and stupendous cliffs.

34. Canon Island Norman monastery in Lough Fergus

    Canon Island · townland · Clare

    The estuary of the Fergus, called Lough Fergus, is a very archipelago, and on Canon Island stands an ancient Norman monastery. The island is passed on the Clare side of the Shannon before reaching Foynes.

    Read the passage

    On the Clare side, nearly opposite Lord Emly's demesne, are the extensive woods of Cratloekeel, covering the mountain's side. Farther on we pass Dromore Castle, the magnificent residence of Lord Limerick, and Beagh Castle, and Horse Rock Lighthouse, the latter a prominent object in the middle of the river. On the Clare side (right), before reaching Foynes. we pass the estuary of the Fergus, called Lough Fergus. This is a very archipelago ; and on Canon Island is an ancient Norman monastery. Behind Beeves Lighthouse (left), in mid-stream, is the mouth of the Deel river, on which is —

    AsKEATON (railway station), remarkable for its ancient buildings. Its Nonnan castle of the Desmonds ; Knights Templars' Church ; and Franciscan Abbey (1419), with uncommon cloisters, are all worth visiting.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 15

35. Carrowmore: great group of ancient cromlechs

    Carrowmore · townland · Galway

    Carrowmore, reached by taking the southern road about three miles from Sligo, contains a great group of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments. It forms part of the Knocknarea excursion round of about 13 miles.

    Read the passage

    The excursion to Knocknarea is an enjoyable one, and may include a coast drive, a mountain ascent, and a visit to rare prehistoric remains. The whole round is about 13 miles. By taking the southern road you reach, in 3 miles, the great group of ancient cromlechs and stone monuments at Carrowmore. A few miles north-west is a remarkable fern glen on the south side of the mountain, and from the school near this Knocknarea^ "the Hill of Executions " (1078 feet), can be ascended. On the top of the hill is an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been erected in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson ; who buried three husbands ere she herself departed. The heap of stones over her grave is 200 yards in circumference. Tradition has buried her namesake at Tara (see Dublin Sect. p. 45). The fine view extends from Slieve League (north-west) to Nephin (south-west).

    At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place, north of Drumcliff Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely shown to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the w^ay, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here are the ancient cromlechs and stone monuments of Carrowmore, part of the Knocknarea excursion round of about 13 miles. A few miles north-west rises Knocknarea, "the Hill of Executions," at 1078 feet, crowned by an immense cairn called Misgoun Meave, said to have been raised in honour of Queen Meave, the "Mab" of Shakespeare, Scott, and Ben Jonson. She buried three husbands before she herself departed, and the heap of stones over her grave measures 200 yards in circumference. From the hill, the fine view extends from Slieve League to Nephin.

36. Lough Gill: wooded islands and Killarney-like scenery

    near Lough Gill · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Gill, sometimes called Lough Gilly, is a scenic lake excursion from Sligo with many islands and sloping wooded shores resembling Killarney. Salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful, and the round trip by road covers 23 miles.

    Read the passage

    Dromohair. This means a detour from the lake, as there is no road close to the south side for some miles. At Dromohair (Hotel: (I.A.C, C.) Abbey) ^ there are O'Rourke's Castle^ with walls of prodigious thickness, and St, MuncMn's Abbey to be seen. Erom here the road wends back to the lough through a gorge, and on reaching it careful watch should be kept for a path on the right, leading through the woods to the Dooney Hock, whence the most beautiful view of the lough is obtained. The richly wooded isles and headlands, the luxuriant masses of beech and oak, give a character all its own to this charming scene. Not far from this, near a school, there is to be found the most interesting sight of all, Tober N'AU, a Druid altar, older than history, on which undoubtedly at one time human sacrifices were offered. The ferns growing out of the rock recesses, the constant flow of ice-cold water in the well, and the mysterious depths all add to a weird and almost uncanny scene of beauty and fascination. Total distance for the round and back to Sligo, 23 miles. As to fishing, salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful in the lough, and permission may be obtained by anglers from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

    The fishing on the other Sligo beauty spot, Glencar, is subject to more restriction. Application as above, when terms can be ascertained.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming up on Lough Gill, a lake of wooded islands and sloping shores that people have compared to Killarney. The road takes you past some miles where there is no route close to the south side, so you pass through Dromohair, where O'Rourke's Castle stands with walls of prodigious thickness, and St. Munchin's Abbey can be seen. From there the road winds back to the lough through a gorge. A path on the right leads through the woods to Dooney Rock, where the most beautiful view of the lough is obtained. The richly wooded isles and headlands, with luxuriant masses of beech and oak, give a character all its own to the scene. Near a school not far from here is Tober N'Ail, a Druid altar older than history, on which human sacrifices were undoubtedly once offered. Ferns grow out of the rock recesses, ice-cold water flows constantly in the well, and the mysterious depths add to a weird and almost uncanny fascination. The round trip back to Sligo covers 23 miles. Salmon, trout, and pike are plentiful in the lough, and anglers can obtain permission from the landlord of the Victoria Hotel.

37. Louisburgh: dull village with disused chapel

    Louisburgh · town · Mayo

    Louisburgh is described as a dull village of 400 inhabitants, within a mile of the sea, as free from outward attraction as Athenry. Its only piece of antiquity is a disused chapel, now converted to secular uses.

    Read the passage

    Louisburgh (21 miles from Leenane and 14 from Westport ; Hotels: {I.A.C., C.) M'Dermott's (small, modern); (0.) M'Girr's (also small)) is a dull village of 400 inhabitants, within a mile of the sea, and as free as Athenry from all attempt to adorn itself with outward attraction. There is salmon fishing in the rivers near for 10s. a day. Boats can be had to visit Clare Island, to which it is the nearest point. Its only piece of antiquity is the disused chapel, now converted to secular uses.

    Between this and Westport cyclists will find pleasant going, and the views of Croagh Patrick on the land side (page 230) and of Clew Bay on the other make the scenery delightful. At Murrisk is the Croagh Patrick Hotel, small, though it has recently blossomed from a mere inn into an hotel. Directly behind it is the recognised ascent of Croagh Patrick. Near the shore, is Murrisk Abbey, which derives its name from the Barony. This religious house was founded by the O'Malley family for Austin Friars. (Entrance from north side.) The east window^ of the 15th century, is rather uncommon and effective. Below is a fragmentary crucifix, and at the stone altar a ** holed stone." Some windows outside the north-east walls may be earlier than the eastern one ; and outside the north door of the chancel is a

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    You're passing through Louisburgh now, a village of about 400 people within a mile of the sea. The old guide calls it a dull place, "as free as Athenry from all attempt to adorn itself with outward attraction," and its only piece of antiquity is a disused chapel, now put to secular uses. There is salmon fishing in the rivers nearby for 10 shillings a day, and boats can be hired to visit Clare Island, to which this is the nearest point.

38. Patrickswell with carving broken by a soldier's bullet

    Patrickswell · town · Limerick

    At Patrickswell, about six and a half miles from Limerick on the road to Adare, there is a well with fragmentary carving said to have been broken by a soldier's bullet.

    Read the passage

    This is an enjoyable trip and deserves a day of good sunny weather. It may be accomplished either by rail or road, the two running very close together. In | mile join the cross roads (right) and then forward again. At Patrickswell^ 6 J miles is a Well (right) with fragmentary carving, said to have been broken by a soldier's bullet.

    Adare Manor is the seat of the Earl of Dunraven. In the demesne is one of the most remarkable assemblages of ruins in the kingdom. The word Adare, in old documents Athdara^ the Ford of the Oak, sufficiently indicates the character of the trees which once lined the banks of the Maigue.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 13

39. Salthill sea-bathing resort near Galway

    Salthill · electoral division · Galway

    Salthill, about a mile and a half west of Galway, was frequented in summer for sea-bathing, connected to Galway by tram-car with an extensive suite of public baths and a made esplanade of some two miles along the shore.

    Read the passage

    Salthill, about a mile and a half west of Galway, is much frequented in summer on account of its sea-bathing. It is connected with Galway by tram-car, and attached to the small hotel is an extensive suite of public baths. There is a made esplanade of some two miles along the shore.

    The road through Salthill continues along the coast toward Spiddle and Costelloe (see p. 218).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Salthill, the sea-bathing resort about a mile and a half west of Galway. It was much frequented in summer for its bathing, with an extensive suite of public baths attached to a small hotel and a made esplanade of some two miles along the shore. It was connected to Galway by tram-car, and the road continues along the coast toward Spiddle and Costelloe.

40. St. John's Church, Sligo: uncommon east window

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    St. John's Church in Sligo is described as a fine stone building notable for its uncommon east window. It stands in another part of the town alongside the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral.

    Read the passage

    In another part of the town are St. John's Church, a fine stone building with an uncommon east window, and the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral. The splendid carillon of chimes of the Cathedkal will have been heard before reaching it. This is one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, and Romanesque in character — a style uncommon in recent work. (Notice, in passing, the well-carved statue of St. Patrick on the wall of an outer building.) The tower containing the chimes is massive ; and the winged angel over the east apse is a remarkable symbolic figure — not of Peace. Owing to the lack of carved ornament within, the bare forms of this style are unrelieved, and the whole effect, though dignified, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and lofty triforium.

    Among other advantages of the neighbourhood, there is good sea-bathing, with accommodation, at Rosses Point, 4 or 5 miles away, and also a capital 18-hole golf course with a club-house.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Sligo, in another part of the town stands St. John's Church, a fine stone building noted for its uncommon east window. It stands alongside the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral, whose splendid carillon of chimes you may well have heard before reaching it. The Cathedral is one of the most important modern buildings in Ireland, Romanesque in character, a style uncommon in recent work. On the wall of an outer building there is a well-carved statue of St. Patrick. The tower containing the chimes is massive, and the winged angel over the east apse is a remarkable symbolic figure, not of Peace. Inside, the lack of carved ornament leaves the bare forms of the style unrelieved, so the whole effect, though dignified, is heavy. The most striking feature is the wide and lofty triforium.

41. Tait Clock-Tower at Glentworth Street

    Glentworth Street · street · Limerick · 1867

    A handsome Clock-Tower stands at the junction of Glentworth Street with Upper Baker Street, erected in 1867 in honour of Alderman Tait.

    Read the passage

    In the PeopU^s Parh^ south-west of the railway station, is a monument to Spring Rice — a lofty Ionic column surmounted by a statue. At the junction of Glentworth Street with Upper Baker Street there is a handsome Clock-Tower, erected in 1867 in honour of Alderman Tait. A statue of General Sarsfield was erected in 1881 behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral.

    King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John for the defence of English Town, is situated at Thomond Bridge. It is one of the most important specimens of the old Norman fortresses now existing in the country, being still in good preservation. Five massive towers are connected by high walls of great thickness and solidity. On the side facing the river the marks of shot and shell, made on the walls centuries ago during the dififerent sieges, are plainly visible from Thomond Bridge. The interior of the castle is occupied by barracks, the buildings of which, overlooking the walls, are very little in harmony with the older structure.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on Glentworth Street, where it meets Upper Baker Street, stands a handsome clock-tower put up in 1867 in honour of Alderman Tait. That is all the record tells of it, so the tower itself is what you have.

42. Cliffs of Moher and O'Brien's Tower

    near Cliffs of Moher · cliff or cliffs · Clare

    The Cliffs of Moher, about 6 miles from Lehinch, rise 600 feet almost vertically and are capped by O'Brien's Tower. The route passes through Liscannor and St. Bridget's Holy Well. The black cliffs are studded with countless sea-birds, and the Aran Islands and Connemara mountains are visible to sea.

    Read the passage

    as a line uphill to a column with a figure on the summit. Thence take left at next fork and pass St. Bridget's Holy Well. It is all uphill. Continue until a curious ruin is seen in a field on the left. Then mss through a gate to it ; cycles and motors may be left here, and a short walk of J mile over easy grass brings us to the head of the cliffs capped by O'Brien's Tower. Few cliffs worth seeing are as easily accessible. Slabs of slate are so arranged as to reassure the most nervous, and by looking over this "railing" we may see a glorious view. The cliffs themselves are 600 feet in height and almost vertical. Only by noting the diminutiveness of a boat below can we gauge the real altitude. Black as ink in places and studded by countless seabirds, their grandeur and solemnity is remarkable. The crags below add to the scene, and away to sea the Isles of Aran are spread out like a map between us and the distant mountains of Connemara.

    From Lehinch the railway goes southward to Milltown Malbay. About 2 miles south of this is Spanish Point, where several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked. After this the scenery calls for no remark. At Doonbeg the railway turns inland to Moyasta junction for Kilkee and Kilrush (see p. 196).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Cliffs of Moher, about 6 miles from Lehinch, the cliffs rise 600 feet and stand almost vertical, capped by O'Brien's Tower. The approach is all uphill, passing through Liscannor and St. Bridget's Holy Well, continuing until a curious ruin appears in a field. Through a gate, cycles and motors may be left, and a short walk over easy grass brings you to the head of the cliffs. Few cliffs worth seeing are as easily accessible. Slabs of slate are arranged as a railing to reassure the most nervous, and looking over it reveals a glorious view. The cliffs are 600 feet in height and almost vertical. Only by noting the diminutiveness of a boat below can the real altitude be gauged. They are, in the source's words, "black as ink in places" and studded by countless sea birds, their grandeur and solemnity remarkable. The crags below add to the scene, and away to sea the Aran Islands are spread out like a map between the viewer and the distant mountains of Connemara.

43. Spanish Point: Armada wrecks

    near Spanish Point · promontory · Clare · 1588

    At Spanish Point, about 2 miles south of Milltown Malbay, several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked. The site gives its name to this stretch of the Clare coast.

    Read the passage

    From Lehinch the railway goes southward to Milltown Malbay. About 2 miles south of this is Spanish Point, where several vessels of the Spanish Armada were wrecked. After this the scenery calls for no remark. At Doonbeg the railway turns inland to Moyasta junction for Kilkee and Kilrush (see p. 196).

    216

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 27

44. Leenaun as fishing settlement between Clifden and Westport

    Leenaun · townland · Galway

    Leenaun is described as a halfway house between Clifden and Westport, offering bathing in the lough and varied fishing including salmon, white trout, and brown trout. Mr. M'Keown of the hotel is noted as a landlord-proprietor whose personality contributes to the enterprise's success.

    Read the passage

    Leenane is a half-way house between Clifden and Westport. It is in a particularly favourable position for excursions (see below). There is bathing in the lough close to the hotel. There is salmon and white trout fishing in Culfin River and certain loughs at 5s. a day ; brown trout free fishing in several rivers and loughs, and of course the sea-fishing is free. There is mixed shooting on the bay. It is one of the sights of Leenane to see the fishermen draw in their nets full of struggling silver salmon along the shores in the mornings. Mr. M'Keown of the hotel is one of the well-known landlord-proprietors, not uncommon in Ireland, who by their personality go far to contribute to the success of their enterprises.

    The valley of the Erriff river, which at Leenane is deepened and widened into the Greater Killory or "red fiord," is of considerable interest to the geologist, who will doubtless have at hand the descriptions of Harkness and Hull. It is sufficient here to remind the general tourist that in this remarkable inlet, 12 miles in length, " the glacial phenomena are very striking," and the rocks are ** scored with groovings pointing down the valley, while masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore," and that, like the Estuary of the Shannon and Cork harbour, it was, during the Ice Age, a much shallower valley, and a " channel of fresh water." Old * ' Mountain terraces " may be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley, and along the road to Cong ; and at the head of the harbour the lines of *' river terraces " are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shoreroad are proofs of volcanic action.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Leenaun, a halfway house between Clifden and Westport. There is bathing in the lough close to the hotel, and the fishing is varied. Salmon and white trout fishing in the Clifden River and certain loughs costs five shillings a day, while brown trout fishing in several rivers and loughs is free, as is the sea-fishing. It is one of the sights of the place to see the fishermen draw in their nets full of struggling silver salmon along the shores in the mornings. Mr. M'Keown of the hotel is one of those well-known landlord-proprietors, not uncommon in Ireland, who by their personality go far to contribute to the success of their enterprises. The valley of the Erriff River, deepened and widened here into the Greater Killory or what the guide calls the red fiord, is of considerable interest. The glacial phenomena are very striking, and the rocks are scored with groovings pointing down the valley, while masses of moraine matter with huge boulders are strewn along the shore. Like the estuary of the Shannon and Cork harbour, it was during the Ice Age a much shallower valley and a channel of fresh water. Mountain terraces may be seen on the sides of the Delphi valley and along the road to Cong, and at the head of the harbour the lines of river terraces are easily observed. Sheets of lava and ash visible along the south shore road are proofs of volcanic action.

45. Ashford Demesne at Cong

    Cong · town · Mayo

    The demesne of Ashford at Cong extends over two miles along the lough shore, with large herds of red and fallow deer. The castellated mansion-house, built of white and gray limestone, belongs to Lord Ardilaun; only the gardens and grounds are shown to visitors holding tickets.

    Read the passage

    The demesne of Ashfoud. (Ticket, obtained in village, must be presented punctually at 11 or 3.) The grounds, which extend for more than two miles along the borders of the lough, are finely laid out, and there are large herds of red and fallow deer. The mansion-house is an extensive pile of buildings in the castellated style, the materials being white and gray limestone. The garden and grounds only are shown.

    The grounds surrounding the mansion of Lord Ardilaun are on one side bounded by a wilderness of ^limestone rocks. While to the south of the village the road is overhung by woods and flourishing young plantations, to the north hardly any sign of vegetation is visible, the landscape presenting an assemblage of gray limestone hills and boulders scattered about in the wildest confusion. The geologist who makes a stay at Cong will be able to collect many Upper Silurian fossils at Boocann and other places to the west of it.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 43

46. Ballina town and its cottages

    Ballina · townland · Galway

    Ballina has a picturesque entrance with a long row of one-storey thatched cottages adorned with colour-wash, though corrugated iron is unfortunately superseding thatch. The town has a fine salmon river, two stone bridges, a modern Roman Catholic Cathedral, and a college conspicuous from the railway.

    Read the passage

    Ballina has rather a picturesque entrance, for near the station is a long row of one-story, thatched cottages, adorned with all shades of colour-wash. Corrugated iron is unfortunately superseding thatch. The town itself is uninteresting, but has the advantage of some better shops than are usually found in an Irish town of this size. It has also a fine salmon river, two good stone bridges, a modern Eoman Catholic Cathedral and a college, the latter a conspicuous object from the railway on the way 1 to Killala. The Moy Fishery Company owns the fishing in the tidal water, but angling in the fresh water above the town is good, and tickets can be got at 7s. 6d. and 10s. a day from Mr. J. C. Wilson, Ballina.

    There is salmon and trout fishing on Loch Conn (several hotels at Crossmolina), about 6 miles from Ballina. The bay is famous as the rendezvous of the French invaders in 1798. The garrison of Killala, only forty men, was surprised by the French general, Humbert, who landed with a thousand men. Next day a detachment of the French were driven in by an English piquet, who, advancing too far, were ambuscaded, and suffered considerable loss. Towards night the French advancing, entered Ballina, and drove out the loyalists, who retreated to Foxford. The enemy retained possession for three weeks, when they were attacked by General Trench, and ultimately di'iven back to their ships.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 45

47. Delphi Lodge built by Marquis of Sligo at Finlough

    Delphi · site · Mayo

    Delphi Lodge was built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of an old house, beautifully situated on the small Finlough and standing on a rocky ledge amid Scotch firs. A waterfall on the north side of the house is often visited by tourists with permission.

    Read the passage

    Delphi Lodge, built by the late Marquis of Sligo on the site of the old house,- is beautifully situated on the small Finlough. It stands on a rocky ledge in the midst of a fine group of Scotch firs. The little waterfall on the north side of the house is often visited by tourists, who will find no difiiculty in obtaining the necessary permission. Finlough, with Dhulough (the black lake), about | mile distant, and' the river which flows into the Killery at Bundorragh, form perhaps the most perfect ideal of a salmon and trout fishery in the kingdom. The lessee of the Lodge, with all sporting rights,

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Right here at Delphi is the lodge the late Marquis of Sligo built on the site of an old house. It stands on a rocky ledge amid a fine group of Scotch firs, beautifully placed on the small Finlough. There's a little waterfall on the north side of the house that tourists often visit, and you'll find no difficulty getting permission to see it. Finlough, together with Dhulough, the black lake about a mile away, and the river flowing into the Killery at Bundorragh, make what the guide calls perhaps the most perfect ideal of a salmon and trout fishery in the kingdom.

48. Early church and tower near Gort

    Gort · townland · Galway · 600–699

    A 7th-century church and tower near Gort founded by the saint MacDuach. This mainland settlement connects to the chapel of the same name on Inishmore in the Aran Islands.

    Read the passage

    About a mile along the western (main) road out of Kilronan is the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years with Enda. A little beyond (south-west) is Dun Oghil, which is considered to have been "once a finer example than Dun Aengus " of the early fort. It is at the eastern extremity of the central prehistoric village, Baile ^iia Sean, a collection of ancient "beehive" cells, huts and forts. About 2 miles farther along the road is Kilmurvey. Near this (south-west) is MacDuach's Chapel y named after the saint who founded the church and tower near Gort in the 7th century. On the sea cliff, J mile from the chapel, is the celebrated

    Dun Aengus, nearly 300 feet above the sea, "the central point of interest . . . and one of the finest prehistoric forts of Western Europe." These duns or forts, writes Miss Stokes, are associated wdth the adventures of Aengus, Conor, and "heroes of the Firbolg race. They may have been in existence two centuries or more before the introduction of Christianity." They were built without mortar ; and the same writer concludes that the upright jointings in the walls point to "the work having been portioned out in lots to the labourers." The dun here may once have had four ramparts, of which three are now standing ; and in the outer labyrinth of stones — which rival even those on the summits of Scafell or Glyder-Fach- — we have a cheval defrise capable of breaking up most besieging lines. In the doorway still remaining, with horizontal lintel and inclined sides, we see the original type afterwards copied by the monks ; and inside one wall is the interior passage so often found in these early forts {e.g. Dunbeg, Fahan).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 26

49. Eyre Square and its 1627 carved doorway

    Eyre Square · street · Galway · 1627

    Eyre Square, in the centre of Galway, is a spacious enclosure laid out in walks and planted with trees. A carved doorway dated 1627, once belonging to a merchant's house, has been placed there as one of the entrances.

    Read the passage

    The walls of the town were removed, but some portions still remain, the Lyon Tower in Eglinton Street, and the gateway at the Quay being specially worthy of notice. In the centre of the town is the spacious Eyre Square, with an enclosure laid out in walks, and planted with trees. A carved doorway, dated 1627, which once belonged to the house of a

    208 GALWAY

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Along here in the centre of Galway is Eyre Square, a spacious enclosure laid out in walks and planted with trees. A carved doorway dated 1627 has been placed here as one of the entrances. It once belonged to the house of a merchant, a surviving fragment from the old town whose walls were removed.

50. Keem Bay salmon fishery and Achill amethysts

    Keem Bay · bay · Mayo

    Keem Bay, a semicircular bay south of Slievemore on Achill Island, had a salmon fishery. Achill amethysts were picked up on the shore there, though they were becoming rarer by 1912.

    Read the passage

    To the south of Slievemore is the semicircular Keem Bay, where there is a salmon fishery. Here are picked up the Achill amethysts, much sought after and becoming rarer. Not far off was the home of the well-known Captain Boycott, now in ruins.

    To see the island properly it is necessary to run right round the south end by some means or another, following the grandly named ''Atlantic Drive," a very rough road, degenerating at times on the western side into a mere grass-grown mountain track, with one zigzag and precipitous descent. There is no doubt whatever that this road will soon be greatly improved and form one of the features of the island. The views from the south end looking down Achill Sound are bewilderingly beautiful. The giant Corraun peninsula near at hand, the hills of Murrisk behind, and the heights of Clare island to the west, blending in a grand panorama. The rock-fringed shore on the west recalls parts of Cornwall. From the tiny hamlet of Dooagh the famous Meenaun Cliffs may be visited. Dooagh is a miserable little place, with many houses tumbling in ruin, and the rest with their unmortared stone and thatch roofs weighted by stones of a poor kind. If the tide is low the cliffs may be seen by taking a longish walk on the sands, but if high the only way is to follow one of the numerous paths between the peasants' neatly cultivated holdings and breast the hill to the turf -cutting colony above — very rough walking — after this there is a stretch of slippery heather -grown upland, but neither so steep nor rough as what has preceded it ; the total distance from the village is about 1^ miles. The Cliffs are 1000 feet in height, and as they are totally unguarded, care must be taken in the approach. They are not vertical, but razor-edged and streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves has hollowed out some into the semblance of great arches known as the Cathedral Cliffs.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 40

51. Kildysart serves a trainless district

    Killadysert · town · Clare

    The steamer puts in at Kildysart on certain days, serving the wide district between Ennis and Kilrush that lacks railway connections. This highlights the reliance on river transport for remote communities.

    Read the passage

    Then, leaving the disused pier of Foynes on our left, we put in on certain days in the week at Kildysart, which serves the wide trainless district between Ennis and Kilrush. On other days the steamer continues until Redgap, on Labasheeda Bay, is reached. A little beyond, and on the opposite side of the Shannon, is the bright, well-built village of Glin.

    Glin Castle has been for centuries the seat of the Knight of Glin, called the " Red Knight," to distinguish this branch of the Fitzgerald family from those of the White Knight, and the Black Knight (of Kerry).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 15

52. Limerick as Danish and Thomond capital

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1106–1174

    Limerick became the capital of the Danes before being taken by Brian Boru. From 1106 until the English conquest in 1174, it served as the capital of the kings of Thomond (North Munster).

    Read the passage

    Limerick is finely situated on both banks of the Shannon, at the head of the inlet known as the Lower Shannon, and is a good centre for the Lower Shannon scenery. It became the capital of the Danes, who were expelled from it by Brian Boroirahe. From 1106 until 1174, when it was conquered by the English, it w^as the capital of the kings of Thomond or North Munster.

    ^ \.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    This is Limerick, set on both banks of the Shannon at the head of the Lower Shannon. It was the capital of the Danes until Brian Boru expelled them. From 1106 until the English conquest in 1174, it served as the capital of the kings of Thomond, or North Munster.

53. Lissadell House: bulb farms and Alpine gardens

    Lissadell · street · Cork

    At Lissadell House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place north of Drumcliff Bay, are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom and also Alpine gardens, freely shown to visitors. The estate lies near the coast north of Sligo.

    Read the passage

    At Lissadel House, Sir Josslyn Gore-Booth's place, north of Drumcliff Bay are the most wonderful bulb farms in the kingdom, and also Alpine gardens, freely shown to visitors. In the deer-park, north of Lough Gill, is a collection of ancient stones, sometimes called the Irish Stone-henge, but this is rather out of the w^ay, and could not be seen very well during the run round the lake described above.

    The Road to Bundoran (the only driving connection is the mail-car which starts at 6 A.M. and has a seat for one passenger) runs northwards round the western foot of Benbulbin, and passes, in 11 miles, through Grange, the best boat-landing for Inismurray.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 48

54. Menlough Castle seen from Galway railway

    near Menlo · street · Galway

    Travelling by rail from Galway towards Connemara, Menlough Castle is visible amid thickly wooded hills along the river Corrib, with little else of note along some miles of flat, monotonous scenery.

    Read the passage

    Leaving the large station of Galway, we notice one of the chief features of the town, the curious and top-heavy tower of the R.O. Church, bristling with pinnacles. Then after backing inland a short way, we make for the wilds of Connemara across the flat -banked river Corrib. As the line steers midway between that river and, on the left side, the thickly wooded hills, Menlough Castle (see p. 236) with perhaps a straggling cow or a sunburnt turf-cutter, are the only varieties along some miles of monotony.

    Connemara is the western section of County Galway, cut off on the east and north by Lough Corrib, Lough Mask, and Killery Harbour, and bounded on the wxst by the sea. It has many and varied attractions. It possesses, perhaps, few treasures for the archaeologist, and perchance the golfer may too often find the coff'ee-room carpet his only putting-green, but the walker no less than the artist who explores the beauties of Ballynahinch, the Killery, and the coast, will find some of the finest scenes in Erin ; the angler in a happy season, who whips

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 28

55. Mullingar fishing centre and horse fair

    Mullingar · town · Westmeath

    Mullingar is a famous fishing centre with hotels and a very large trade in horses, cattle, wool and butter. The November horse fair is attended by dealers from all parts of Europe. Nearby loughs provide sport from April to October.

    Read the passage

    A very large trade is carried on in horses, cattle, wool and butter. The horse fair in November is attended by dealers from all parts of Europe.

    Loughs Ennel (or Belvidere)^ Iron, Owel, and Derevaragh, a few miles from the town, give sport from April to October, and a little further afield is Lough Shielin, which, on the authority of one well qualified to judge, is **the best in the division."

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 4

56. Ruined arcading remnant of the Old Exchange, Limerick

    Limerick · city · Limerick

    Arcading just outside the churchyard of St Mary's Cathedral in Limerick, now in ruins, is a remnant of the Old Exchange which was taken down along with Ireton's House some years before publication.

    Read the passage

    The arcading just outside the churchyard, and now in ruins, is a remnant of the Old Exchange which was taken down with Ireton's House some years ago.

    The bells are eight in number and in the key of F. The oldest, the D and F bells, bear Latin inscriptions with the date 1673. During the siege of the city in 1690 a cannon was mounted by the Irish on the battlements of the cathedral, from which a shot, directed by a very skilful gunner of the name of Burke, nearly proved fatal to King William.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Limerick, the ruined arcading just outside the churchyard of St Mary's Cathedral is all that remains of the Old Exchange, taken down along with Ireton's House some years ago. The cathedral itself saw action in the siege of 1690, when the Irish mounted a cannon on its battlements and a gunner named Burke nearly killed King William with a single shot.

57. St. Peter's Abbey, Connaught side of Athlone

    Athlone · town · Westmeath

    On the Connaught side of the river at Athlone once stood the abbey of St. Peter. It is now only remembered by its name, which survives in the place-name St. Peter's Port.

    Read the passage

    On the Connaught side of the river, once stood the abbey of St. Peter — now only remembered by its name, which survives in St. Peter's Port.

    Dublin Museum has swallowed up several ''finds" belonging properly to Athlone, chief among them the finest stone battleaxe in the Museum, and the gold "lunulae " (or "minn "), also from this town.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Athlone, on the Connaught side of the river, there once stood the abbey of St. Peter. Nothing remains of it now. It survives only in the name of St. Peter's Port. The Dublin Museum holds several finds from this town, chief among them the finest stone battle axe in the Museum, and gold lunulae.

58. Striking views of the Bens from Lough Inagh

    Lough Inagh · lake or lakes · Galway

    The most striking views of the Twelve Bens are obtained from the road along the eastern shore of Lough Inagh. From this vantage, three successive rounded shoulders rise from the island-studded lake to the peaks.

    Read the passage

    heart of some of the loveliest scenery in the world, full of varied and interesting scrambles, and botanically are pre-eminently the richest in mountain plants in Connaught" {M. C. Hart), The geologist will find in these mountains the same * * quartzite rising in great arches or folds, which after disappearing northwards for some 20 miles, rises again in Croagh Patrick on Clew Bay. Sometimes the sides of these hills are destitute of vegetation, where it cannot cling to the dry gritty substance. They have also undergone considerable polishing from former glacial action ; so that it will be easily understood how, seen from certain directions and under favourable sunlight, the mountain sides glisten like glass, or rather with the rich yellowish hue of burnished gold." The views of the Bens which to us appear most striking are those obtained from the road along the eastern shore of Lough Inagh ; from this are clearly seen the three successive *' shoulders," like rounded cushions, which rise from the island-studded lake buttressing up the tapering peaks above. Bengorm, 2336 feet high, forms a very graceful summit, but the loftiest point of the group is Benbaun, which is 2395 feet.

    At Recess is the principal quarry of the famous ornamental stone known as Conwemara Marble, described by Dr. Hull as composed of ^' crystalline limestone and serpentine. " Those who have seen the pillars and facings of the Entrance Hall at the New Geological Museum of Trinity College, Dublin, will remember the beautiful green colouring of this exquisite rock. There is also a magnificent specimen in the Natural History department of the Dublin Museum.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 30

59. Croaghaun panorama praised by explorers

    Croaghaun · townland · Mayo · 1902

    Sir Harry Johnston wrote in the visitors' book at the Slievemore Hotel in 1902 that the side view of Croaghaun cliffs ranked among the finest scenery in all his travels. Sir John Franklin also said the view from Croaghaun's summit was the grandest panorama he had encountered.

    Read the passage

    All this part of the western coast is of great interest ; and from Erris Head round these cliffs of Achill and Clare island ipto Westport the coast abounds in fine scenery which is at present little known. Sir Harry Johnston, the great African traveller, wrote in the visitors' book at the Slievemore Hotel, in 1902, " The side view of Croaghaun cliffs I include amongst the thousand bits of choice scenery I have met in all my travels." Sir John Franklin also said, just before starting on his last fatal voyage, that the view from the summit of Croaghaun was the grandest panorama he had met with in all his travels.

    Route II (see page 216).

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Croaghaun, travellers have long stopped to admire what they saw. Sir Harry Johnston, the African explorer, stayed at the Slievemore Hotel in 1902 and wrote in the visitors' book that the side view of Croaghaun cliffs he included among the thousand bits of choice scenery he had met in all his travels. Sir John Franklin said, just before setting out on his last fatal voyage, that the view from the summit of Croaghaun was the grandest panorama he had encountered in all his travels.

60. Dooagh village and Meenaun Cliffs

    Dooagh · town · Mayo

    Dooagh, a tiny hamlet on Achill Island, was described as a miserable place with many houses tumbling into ruin and the rest of poor unmortared stone construction. From the village the famous Meenaun Cliffs, 1,000 feet high, could be visited.

    Read the passage

    To see the island properly it is necessary to run right round the south end by some means or another, following the grandly named ''Atlantic Drive," a very rough road, degenerating at times on the western side into a mere grass-grown mountain track, with one zigzag and precipitous descent. There is no doubt whatever that this road will soon be greatly improved and form one of the features of the island. The views from the south end looking down Achill Sound are bewilderingly beautiful. The giant Corraun peninsula near at hand, the hills of Murrisk behind, and the heights of Clare island to the west, blending in a grand panorama. The rock-fringed shore on the west recalls parts of Cornwall. From the tiny hamlet of Dooagh the famous Meenaun Cliffs may be visited. Dooagh is a miserable little place, with many houses tumbling in ruin, and the rest with their unmortared stone and thatch roofs weighted by stones of a poor kind. If the tide is low the cliffs may be seen by taking a longish walk on the sands, but if high the only way is to follow one of the numerous paths between the peasants' neatly cultivated holdings and breast the hill to the turf -cutting colony above — very rough walking — after this there is a stretch of slippery heather -grown upland, but neither so steep nor rough as what has preceded it ; the total distance from the village is about 1^ miles. The Cliffs are 1000 feet in height, and as they are totally unguarded, care must be taken in the approach. They are not vertical, but razor-edged and streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves has hollowed out some into the semblance of great arches known as the Cathedral Cliffs.

    A visit should be paid, if time permit, to Inisglore and Iniskea islands, celebrated in ancient legend, and formerly the haunts of saints and recluses, of whose long-gone tenancy there is still abundant evidence in numerous crosses and the ruins of sacred edifices.

    Internet Archive guidetogalwaycon00lang, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Dooagh, a small hamlet on Achill Island. A guide from the past called it a miserable little place, with many houses tumbling into ruin and the rest built of unmortared stone, their thatch roofs weighted down with stones. From the village the famous Meenaun Cliffs can be visited, about 1 mile away. The cliffs stand 1000 feet high and are totally unguarded, so care is needed in the approach. They are not vertical but razor-edged, streaked with yellow and grey strata. The action of the waves has hollowed some out into great arches known as the Cathedral Cliffs. At low tide you could take a long walk on the sands to see them, but at high tide the only way is to follow paths between neatly cultivated holdings and climb the hill to a turf-cutting colony above — very rough walking — then across a stretch of slippery heather-grown upland.