Guide to Killarney and Glengariff, with six engravings

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Eagle's Nest rock and its famous echo

   Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

   The Eagle's Nest is a stupendous pyramidal rock rising from the river, renowned for a remarkable echo phenomenon. A small hillock opposite, called the 'Station for Audience,' is used to fire a cannon so visitors can hear the echo multiplied many times like thunder. An eagle's nest is visible as a black mark near the summit.

   Read the passage

   It is from this sublime and stupendous rock the sound is returned in so miraculous a manner, that it is considered one of the most singular phenomena in existence. A small hillock, on the opposite side of the river, usually called the " Station for Audience," is used as the resting place of a paterara, which is carried in the boat from Killarney : the gunner is placed on one side of the hillock, and the auditor on the other, and upon the discharge of the piece, a roaring is heard in the bosom of the opposite mountain, like a peal of thunder, or the discharge of a train of artillery, and this echo is multiplied a number of times, after which it gradually fades away, like the rolling of distant thunder. The exact residence of the eagle may be distinguished by a black mark near the vertex of the rock, and the noble inhabitant is frequently seen soaring above the heads of passengers on the river, and directing

   80 UPPER LAKE.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 40

2. Gorrane and the eagle's nest at Glengariff

   Glengarriff · townland · Cork

   During a period of famine and desolation in the south-west of Cork and Desmond, O'Sullivan's fosterer Gorrane discovered an eagle's nest in a precipice in the Glengariff valley. He lowered his son Phadrig down by a rope to tie the necks of the young eaglets so they could not swallow, then retrieved the prey brought by the parent eagles to feed O'Sullivan's wife and her followers.

   Read the passage

   " In this extremity of desolation was the southwest of Cork and Desmond, when Gorrane took home his charge to his boolie, and the poor fosterer knew not what to do— all his trust was that God was good, and the Virgin Mother, his protectress? would not fail him in the hour of his need. And as thus one morning he was ruminating, he rambled under the precipice where, year after year, the eagles of the valley had nested and reared their young ; and, looking up, he saw one of these huge birds sailing, on steady \ving, with a hare within its talons, and now it alighted on its rocknest, and anon the young eagles were shrieking with triumph over the divided prey. ' Arrah, now, is it not the greatest pity in life that these young hell birds, that look for all the world like the childer of these cramming beef-eating devils, the Saxon churls — my heavy curse light upon them all — that these greedy guts should be after swallowing the game that nobody has any right

   34 GLENGARIFF.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 19

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, in the Glengariff valley, the south-west of Cork and Desmond lay in famine and desolation. O'Sullivan's fosterer, Gorrane, had taken his charge home to his boolie, and the poor man knew not what to do. All his trust was that God was good, and the Virgin Mother, his protectress, would not fail him in the hour of his need. One morning, as he was ruminating, he rambled under the precipice where, year after year, the eagles of the valley had nested and reared their young. Looking up, he saw one of these huge birds sailing on steady wing, with a hare within its talons. It alighted on its rock nest, and the young eagles were shrieking with triumph over the divided prey. Gorrane cursed them, these greedy guts swallowing game that nobody had any right to. He lowered his son Phadrig down by a rope to tie the necks of the young eaglets so they could not swallow, then retrieved the prey the parent eagles brought, to feed O'Sullivan's wife and her followers.

3. Kilcrea Abbey founded by Cromac McCarthy, buried in choir

   Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1456–1494

   The monastery was founded in 1456 under the invocation of St. Brigid by Cromac McCarthy, Great Prince of Desmond, who was murdered by his brother Owen and interred in the choir in 1494. A beautiful arcade of three pointed arches supported by marble pillars remains, along with tombs of the Clancartys and Barretts.

   Read the passage

   tier the invocation of St. Brigid, by Cromac McCarthy, the Great Prince of Desmond, who was murdered by his brother Owen, and was interred in the centre of the choir, in 1494, as the inscription on his monument testifies.* The quantity of human skulls and bleached bones, strewn among the ruins, sufficiently declare the veneration in which the abbey grounds have always been held as a cemetery. The nave and choir are still standing, and there is a very beautiful arcade of three pointed arches, supported by massive pillars of marble, still remaining on the south side of the nave. In the choir are several tombs of the Clancartys and Barretts, whose families have always resisted the total demolition of the castle and abbey. The steeple is only eighty feet in height, nor does it appear to have been more lofty ; it stands between the nave and choir, and rests on pointed arches.

   The approach to the abbey is really terrific and appalling. A long narrow passage is enclosed by high walls, entirely composed of human skulls and bones, cemented by moss ; the gloom and desolalation are increased by the shade of a range of lofty oaks, which are at a sufficient distance to produce an awful gloominess, without relieving the

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 4

4. Ballincollig Castle and the Barrett family

   near Ballincollig · town · Cork · 1600

   Ballincollig Castle stands on a rocky eminence in an extensive plain, four miles six furlongs from Cork. The Barrett family were its ancient proprietors; the last, William Barrett, submitted to Queen Elizabeth in 1600 after involvement in the Earl of Desmond's rebellion. Cromwell later garrisoned it, and it was also used in James II's wars.

   Read the passage

   splendid scenery of Lough Lein ; at every step, some remarkable remnant of the strength, or ancient splendour, of the feudal castles, and many a venerable monastic pile, excite attention and awaken curiosity. At the distance of four miles and six furlongs from Cork, upon the south side, stands the castle of Ballincollig ; it is a large square building, on the summit of a natural eminence of rock, rising perpendicularly in the centre of an extensive plain, in which not another hill, mound, or elevated spot of any sort is to be seen. From its situation it must have been impregnable ; the outworks and flanking towers, besides much of the castle, are in a tolerable state of preservation.; The Barretts, an ancient and illustrious family, were the proprietors of this noble castle ; the last of these, William Barrett, being concerned in the Earl of Desmond's rebellion, submitted to the mercy of Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1600. Its estimation, as a place of strength, may be gathered from this, that Cromwell constantly kept troops here, and it was also garrisoned in the wars in James the Second's time.

   Within a short distance of Ballincollig, stand the Castle and Abbey of Kilcrea; the former is in a ruinous condition, but the abbey and steeple are still sufficiently perfect to gratify curiosity, the barbicans, platform, and fosse, still remaining. The monastery was founded in the year 145G, un-

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 3

5. Ancient hermitage of St. Finbar on island in Gougane Barra

   near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

   On a wooded islet in the lake stand the ruins of St. Finbar's dwelling, with a holy well bearing votive rags and primitive masonry. St. Finbar is said to have flourished here before Cork was built and is regarded as the founder of that city and its cathedral. The last anchorite was Father Denis O'Mahony.

   Read the passage

   In the mean time, the island is gained. Here are many objects which will attract attention, but which require no explanation, and may be left to tell their own stories. A holy well will explain its uses by its votive rags ; and the primitive materials and rude masonry will tell at first glance that centuries must have passed over the ruins of St. Finbar's dwelling, with remains of which the isle is covered. Here the anchorite flourished (as old books say) some time or other before Cork was built, as he is said to be the founder of that city and its cathedral. A long succession of venerable anchorites occupied his dwelling and imitated his virtues ; of whom the last was Father Denis O'Mahony. There is an annual patron held in this island, and it is, or has been, the fre-

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 14

6. Gorrane M'Swiney's hidden boolie at Eagle's Precipice, Glengariff

   Glengarriff · townland · Cork

   Gorrane M'Swiney sheltered O'Sullivan's wife and children in a concealed boolie (hut) built against a rocky ridge beneath the Eagle's Precipice at Glengariff. The hut was camouflaged with sods of heath and accessed through a winding passage in the rock, making it invisible to Wilmot's forces scouring the mountains.

   Read the passage

   " Gorrane, whose whole soul was in his charge, returned with them to a boolie he had set up under the foot of the Eagle's Precipice at Glengariff. This boolie or hut was so contrived that Wilmot and his Saxon devils, (as Gorrane called them,) might scour the mountain over and never see it, or suspect that there was in such a desert, a human habitation. It was erected against the face of a rocky ridge, the roof sloping down till it touched the moor, was covered with scravvs and sods of heath, so that the place was undistinguishable from the shelving slope of the mountain, and the entrance a long, distant, and winding passage in the rock, and charcoal burned on the hearth for fire — it was secure from suspicion. But how was the princess of Bear and Bantry to be supported— not a cow was there to give milk, no corn, nor root, nor pulse. Gorrane had one salted salmon wrapped up in a cow's hide ; that was all his provision when they entered the boolie, and where to go to seek for food, Gorrane knew not under heaven — famine had spread over the land : as Spencer says, "the people of Munster were brought to such wretchedness, that even a heart of stone would have rued to see the same ; for out of every corner of the woods and glynnes they came creeping forth on their hands and knees, for

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 18

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, Gorrane M'Swiney hid O'Sullivan's wife and children in a boolie he built beneath the Eagle's Precipice at Glengariff. Gorrane's whole soul was in his charge. He returned with them to this hut, set against the face of a rocky ridge. The roof sloped down until it touched the moor and was covered with scravvs and sods of heath, so the place was undistinguishable from the shelving slope of the mountain. Wilmot and his Saxon devils, as Gorrane called them, might scour the mountain over and never see it, or suspect there was a human habitation in such a desert. The entrance was a long, distant, and winding passage in the rock, and charcoal burned on the hearth for fire, so it was secure from suspicion. But how was the princess of Bear and Bantry to be supported? Not a cow was there to give milk, no corn, nor root, nor pulse. Gorrane had one salted salmon wrapped up in a cow's hide; that was all his provision when they entered the boolie, and where to go to seek for food, Gorrane knew not under heaven. Famine had spread over the land. As Spenser says, "the people of Munster were brought to such wretchedness, that even a heart of stone would have rued to see the same."

7. Macroom Castle: Carew, Macarty, and Clancarty seat

   Macroom · town · Cork · 1563–1641

   Macroom Castle was originally built by the Carews after the English conquest (also attributed to the Daltons), repaired by Teig Macarty who died there in 1563, and rebuilt by the Earls of Clancarty after fire destroyed it in the 1641 wars. Admiral Sir William Penn was born in one of its apartments.

   Read the passage

   The next village of consequence is Macroom, fourteen miles two furlongs, from Ballincollig, and nineteen from Cork. The Castle of Macroom, the seat of II. Hedges Eyre, Esq. is a stately building, modernized. It was at first built by the Carews, shortly after the English conquest, though its erection is also attributed to the Daltons. It was repaired and beautified by Teig Macarty, who expired there in 1563, and who was father of the celebrated Lord Muskerry mentioned by Camden. The late Earls of Clancarty rebuilt and altered it, after its destruction by fire in the wars of 1641. When Dean Swift visited this country, he expressed the warmest admiration of this castle and demesne. In one of its apartments was born the famous Admiral Sir William Pen.* The Roman Catholic Chapel of Macroom is also worth visiting.

   • For many more extremely interesting anecdotes relative to this ancient building, the reader is referred to the I'acata Hibcmia.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 5

8. Carriganass castle garrisoned by Daniel O'Sullivan

   Carriganass · townland · Cork · 1558–1603

   About four miles from Bantry on the river Ouvane stands the ruin of Carriganass castle, where Daniel O'Sullivan kept garrison in the time of Elizabeth. After the conquest of Dunboy it was surrendered to the queen's forces. It was a high tower with a square court, flanked with four round towers.

   Read the passage

   Following the coast, the tourist next reaches the little estuary which receives the waters of Coorloum river, where it enters the bay at Snaire. This river is the best supplied of any in the barony with trout and salmon. It offers a marked contrast to Bally licky cove, in the bold, naked steep which encloses its narrow and winding recess, which penetrates nearly a mile into the country. The peculiar effect of this place is its loneliness and seclusion of aspect. Into this the Coorloum (foam of the desolate) pours, from the dark and rocky labyrinth of its steep banks rising on each side, and almost intermatted above with luxuriant copsewood. About four miles from Bantry, on the river Ouvane, stands the ruin of the castle of Carriganass. In it Daniel O'Sullivan kept garrison in the time of Elizabeth ; but, after the conquest of Dunboy, it was surrendered to the queen's forces. It was a high tower with a square court, and flanked with four round towers.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 11

9. Kilcrea Abbey lands granted after dissolution

   Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1604–1641

   At the dissolution of religious houses, Kilcrea Abbey's lands were granted to Lord Muskerry. After the wars of 1641, Cromwell bestowed them upon Lord Broghill. The castle and abbey were much injured in these wars but were afterwards repaired by Captain William Bayley. Roman Catholics had also repaired the abbey in 1604.

   Read the passage

   At the dissolution of religious houses in Ireland, the lands of this abbey were granted to Lord Muskerry, but, after the wars of 1641, Oliver Cromwell bestowed them upon the Lord Broghill. In these wars the castle and abbey were much injured, but were afterwards repaired by Captain Wm. Bayley. Ware says, the Roman Catholics repaired the abbey in 1604.

   Near the junction of the Bride and Lee stand the Church and Village of Ovens.* Here is an extraordinary cave, beneath a limestone arch ; in some places it is upwards of twenty feet high, in others, not more than six; there are numerous diverging corridors within about twenty yards from the entrance, some of them returning back into the cave, and others continuing to a length as yet unascertained. Strangers should be extremely cautious of venturing into this Cretan labyrinth, without such a clue as Ariadne gave to Theseus,

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 4

10. Fairy Rock near Kenmare River with foot impressions

    near Kenmare River · bay · Kerry

    About five miles from the head of Kenmare River, in the heart of the mountains near a small brook, is a rock called by an Irish name signifying 'The Fairy Rock.' On it are impressions of several human feet, some naked and others with shoes on, of all sizes from infancy.

    Read the passage

    • Impressions of feet in the solid rock are not uncommon, " /tint* naturae." About five miles from the head of Kenmare River, in the heart of the mountain*, an 1 near a •mall brook, is a roek, usually called by un Irish name which signifies «• The Fairy Rock." On this are to be •••<-ii the impressions of several humnn feet, some naked, ulbert with rhoen on, and tbusc of till sizes from infancy

    Q

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 41

11. Kilcrea Abbey's avenue of skulls and bones

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    The approach to Kilcrea Abbey is a long narrow passage enclosed by high walls composed entirely of human skulls and bones cemented by moss. An old wooden cross stands at the end of the avenue, surviving over two centuries. The river Bride flows by the abbey towards the Lee.

    Read the passage

    The approach to the abbey is really terrific and appalling. A long narrow passage is enclosed by high walls, entirely composed of human skulls and bones, cemented by moss ; the gloom and desolalation are increased by the shade of a range of lofty oaks, which are at a sufficient distance to produce an awful gloominess, without relieving the

    • Sec UUter Annals, MSS. Trin. Coll. Dub. : also MSS. in Marsh's Library, and the Munasticon iiib.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 4

12. Ross Castle siege by General Ludlow, 1652

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1652

    After the defeat at Knockniclachy, Lord Muskery withdrew to Ross Castle and was followed by General Ludlow with four thousand foot and two hundred horse. Ludlow describes fortifying a neck of land, clearing woods, receiving boats by sea, and ultimately the garrison submitted before an assault.

    Read the passage

    acres, is connected, by a causeway and bridge, with the main land : in summer, the morass, separating the island from the continent, is completely dry ; but in winter, Ross becomes again perfectly insulated. On this island, or rather peninsula, stands Ross castle, which held out so obstinately, under Lord Muskery, in 1652, against the English, commanded by General Ludlow. Upon the 26th of July, in that year, at Knockniclachy, in the county of Cork, a battle was fought between Lord Muskery, at the head of the Irish, and the Lord Broghil, commander of the English forces, in which the former were defeated with great slaughter, and Colonel Mac-Gillicuddy, a native of Kerry, and greatly beloved by the Irish, slain. Upon this defeat, Lord Muskery withdrew to Ross castle, whither he was followed by General Ludlow, with a body of four thousand foot and two hundred horse.* This experienced officer and upright statesman thus describes the siege of Ross castle : — " In this expedition I was accompanied by the Lord Broghil, and Sir Hardress Waller,f major-general of the foot. Being arrived at this place, I was informed that the enemy received continual supplies from those parts that lay on the other side, and were covered with woods

    * Ludlow's Memoirs, Vol. I. p. 415. f One of the Judges of King Charles I.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 24

13. Wilmot's devastation of Bear, Bantry, and all Kerry

    Bantry · town · Cork

    Wilmot's forces completely wasted Bear, Bantry, and the whole of Kerry during the Munster war, stripping the land of all livestock from Slieumiss to Glenflesk. The resulting famine forced O'Sullivan to consign his family to Gorrane M'Swiney's care and retreat northward to the confederates in Breffny.

    Read the passage

    " And now Tyrrel, finding the left of his position on Slievelogher turned by Wilmot — perceiving the game was up in Munster, and hopeless of farther Spanish aid, with the decision and despatch for which he was so notorious, retreated along the eastern parts of Kerry, through Limerick, Ormond, Ely O'Carrol, until he reached in safety, with all his partisans, his own country. O'Sullivan still clung with craving hope to his native rocks ; but winter coming on, famine stared him and all belonging to him in the face — for Wilmot had wasted all Bear, Bantry, and the whole of Kerry — not a cow, garrane, goat, or sheep did he leave from Slieumiss to Glenflesk. O'Sullivan, therefore, consigning his wife and children to the care of his faithful gossip, Gorrane M'Swiney, determined to follow TyrrePs example, and retreat to the confederates that still held out in Breffny and Lister. He, therefore, trusting in God and the Catholic cause, set out in company with Wil-

    32 GLENGARIFF.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up on Bantry now. In the Munster war, Wilmot wasted all Bear, Bantry, and the whole of Kerry. He left not a cow, garrane, goat, or sheep from Slieumiss to Glenflesk. Tyrrel had held the left of his position on Slievelogher, but when Wilmot turned that flank, he saw the game was up in Munster and gave up hope of farther Spanish aid. With the decision and despatch for which he was notorious, he retreated through the eastern parts of Kerry, through Limerick, Ormond, Ely O'Carrol, until he reached his own country in safety with all his partisans. O'Sullivan still clung to his native rocks. But winter came on, and famine stared him and all belonging to him in the face. He consigned his wife and children to the care of his faithful gossip, Gorrane M'Swiney, and determined to follow Tyrrel's example. Trusting in God and the Catholic cause, he set out to retreat to the confederates still holding out in Breffny and Lister.

14. Lord Brandon's imitation round tower near Upper Lake

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    A round tower about forty feet high was erected by Lord Brandon near the Upper Lake, imitating the ancient round towers of Ireland. Its situation is compared to that of the tower at Glendalough, County Wicklow. Access requires an introduction to his lordship.

    Read the passage

    a round tower, about forty feet high, erected by his lordship, probably in imitation of the ancient towers in Ireland, of which it is an exact resemblance ; the situation, too, being not unlike that of the tower of Glendalough, in the county of Wicklow, is precisely such as the ancient projectors of these extraordinary edifices would have selected. There is a ladder inside, (rather inconvenient on account of its extreme perpendicularity,) by which you may ascend the summit, where is an extensive prospect of the unexplored valley and lakes of Comme Duff, the sides of the prodigious mountains closing up the vale, and the islands of the Upper Lake, with the always obtruding Turk, which appears of a perfectly different form and outline in this situation from its general shape and appearance. Perhaps it would not be proper to direct the tourist to the cottage of (jheranrine, and to Lord Brandon's tower, as being indiscriminately accessible to the "foe and the stranger," since an introduction to his lordship is thought necessary.

    North of the Lake are Ghirmeen and the Purple mountain, at a distance ; the Long Kange, backed by the Purple mountain, Tomies, and (jlcna. The Purple mountain is very properly so denominated, from the purple hue it possesses when seen from almost any quarter, and by any fight. Tliis extraordinary colour u attributed by

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 43

15. Pilgrim John Drake's twenty-year penance at Mucruss Abbey

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    A pilgrim named John Drake lived in the kitchen of the ruined Mucruss Abbey for twenty years before withdrawing secretly. A second pilgrim took up residence in the upper chambers but departed after only two years.

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    Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, and was a long narrow room, capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as that of his predecessor; for after a lapse of two years, he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry assemble in great numbers, to receive the benedictions of their pastors, and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this venerable building. The cemetery on the south of the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, and throw an arch over, which permit* the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is

    I!

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

16. Fountain of the River Lee in valley west of Gougane Barra

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    In a little valley west of the lake, from about the centre of the precipice, the fountain of the river Lee flows as if from the entrails of the mountain. The valley also contains a farm with livestock and an eagle's nest on an inaccessible ledge.

    Read the passage

    Near the lake is the little village of Rosalucha, consisting of a few poor huts, which relieve without breaking the solitude of the vale. West of the lake may be seen a narrow recess — it is the entrance to a little valley, which we recommend to particular notice. " The Ethiopian valley," says the author of the Sketches, " that Johnson, in all the richness of his language, describes as the abode of Rasselas, was scarcely more inapproachable on every side. The little level vale lay before me, a lovely green meadow, a comfortable farm-house, with all its offices and homesteads, cows, and horses, scattered depasturing about — a flock of sheep grouped on a little green knoll — a herd of goats on the accessible parts of a ravine, that conveyed a tumbling torrent from the western side of the mountain. Eastwards, from about the centre of the precipice, as from the heart of the hill, flowed the fountain of the river Lee — it came welling, as if from the entrails of the mountain : and northward, on an inaccessible ledge, was an eagle's nest, and one of those lordly birds towering on poised wing in his ' pride of place,' challenged, with shrill and echoing voice, the honours of his sovereignty."

    26

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 15

17. Aghadoe church sculptured doorway and cemetery

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    The doorway of Aghadoe church is a masterly specimen of early sculpture, with six successive mouldings of different patterns including chevron or zig-zag designs, all carved in soft stone and still in beautiful condition. The surrounding cemetery is in a disgusting state with skulls, bones, and coffin-lids scattered about, serving as a free burial ground that is more ancient than Mucruss.

    Read the passage

    might have been. The door-way is a very masterly specimen of the excellence of the art of sculpture in those days ; six successive mouldings, of different patterns, chevron, or zig-zag, and others, ornament its architrave ; and though carved in an exceedingly soft species of stone, are all perfect and beautiful specimens of a~master's hand.

    The date of the foundation of this abbey has not yet been ascertained.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 56

18. Mucruss Abbey founded by Donald M'Carthy

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1440–1468

    According to Archdall, Mucruss Abbey (Irrelagh) was founded by Donald, son of Thady M'Carthy, in 1440 for conventual Franciscans, and further improved and repaired by him in 1468, a few months before his death. A religious house existed on the same site before this period.

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    According to Archdall this abbey was founded by Donald, son of Thady M'Carthy, in 1440,f for convetitual Franciscans, and further improved and repaired by him in 1468, a few months before hi* death. In 1602 it was re-edified by the Roman Catholics, but was soon after suffered to go to ruin.

    The abbey consisted of a nave, choir, transept, and cloisters, with every apartment necessary to render it a complete and comfortable residence for the venerable inmates who once dwelt there. It is even now so perfect, that] were it more so, the ruin would be less pleasing. The entrance i*

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 48

19. Sacred yew tree in Mucruss Abbey cloister

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    A majestic yew tree stands in the centre of the cloister, its stem rising about thirty feet and its branches forming a canopy across the battlements. A story is told of a soldier who stripped bark from the tree and instantly expired on the spot.

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    The cloister is even more perfect than tho steeple or choir. In the centre of the cloister stands a majestic yew, whose stem rises perpendicularly to the height of about thirty feet, and whose sheltering branches are flung across the battlements, so as to form a perfect canopy. The gloominess of the cloister is so much increased by this cu-

    96 MUCRUSS ABBEY.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 49

20. Stag hunt on the Lakes of Killarney

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The stag hunt at Killarney was considered by tourists the most interesting of all amusements at the Lakes. Hounds were used to rouse the stag from the thicket while spectators in boats on the lake followed the chase by the echoes of hunters' horns and baying of hounds, until the stag leapt into the lake and was surrounded by sportsmen in boats.

    Read the passage

    rience of the hunters seldom fail to conclude the chase in the expected manner, and the stag, leaping into the Lake, and trying to make the opposite shore, is surrounded by the sportsmen in boats, and borne triumphantly to land.*

    The species of deer, inhabiting the woods of Killarney, is called the stag or red deer ; it was introduced into England from France, but appears to be an old inhabitant of this country : and although the red deer continue wild in the Highlands of Scotland, yet those in the woods about Lough Lein are the only remaining part of the great herds that were to be found in the forests which once covered the face of this country ; the few remaining in England are confined to the moors that border on Cornwall and Devonshire. Various animals are much pleased by harmonious tones, but none are so completely overcome by their influence as the large stag, or red deer, as a proof of which take the following interesting anecdote from Playford's History of Music : — " As I travelled, some years since, near Koyston, I met a herd of stags, about twenty, on the road, following

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala

21. The terrifying pass of the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    The Gap of Dunloe is a narrow defile between steep perpendicular crags, with a dark lake beside the road and two simple bridges crossing the stream. Travellers have been known to be paralysed with terror at the spot, dreading the mountain might fall and overwhelm them. The author compares it to Borrowdale and the pass of Llanberris.

    Read the passage

    ed for a feeling of awe and an impression of fear, until a pass is reached, so narrow that there is space merely for the scanty road and the little dark, gloomy, lake beside it ; the hills on either side ascend in steep, perpendicular, precipitous crags ; masses of enormous bulk lie tossed about in all the terrific sublimity of chaos, and instances have been known of persons, who, when they have arrived at this spot, were so paralysed with terror, that no earthly inducement could persuade them to advance, dreading that the mountain might fall and overwhelm them. Two small bridges are thrown across the stream \vhich runs through the defile, in the narrowest parts of the channel; yet, from the simplicity of their structure, these do not interrupt the character of the scenery. In one particular part of the pass, the road runs along the margin of a black pool, and is so unprotected, as to inspire the equestrian traveller with fears, that, should his horse trip, he might be precipitated into the lake. But a scene of this description defies the address of the most expert tourist, and the pencil of the ablest master; it must be seen to be understood. Those who have visited the passes of Borrowdalc, in Cumberland, may form a faint idea of the chilling, dreary grandeur of Dunloe ; but the pass of Llanberris, in North Wales, bears a still greater resemblance, and he who has seen the Gap of Dunloe, will not

    i

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 59

22. Mucruss Abbey property granted at dissolution

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1595–1626

    At the dissolution of religious establishments in the 37th year of Elizabeth, the abbey's landed property—four acres, two orchards, and one garden, valued at 16s. per annum—was granted to Captain Robert Collam. An inscription dated 1626 on the northern wall of the choir suggests monks continued to inhabit it after the dissolution.

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    Many valuable relics were said to be preserved in this Abbey. An image of the Virgin Mary, of miraculous powers, was also said to belong to it The landed property, amounting to four acres, two orchards, and one garden, estimated at 16*. per annum, was granted to Captain Robert Collam, upon the dissolution of religious establishments throughout the kingdom, in the 37th of Elizabeth; but from the date of the inscription on the northern wall of the choir (1626) it is obvious the monks continued to inhabit it some time after.

    A large stone in one angle of the choir, of rather modern date, bears the following extraordinary inscription :

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 49

23. O'Donohoe's Prison rock and tradition

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    O'Donohoe's Prison is a perpendicular rock thirty feet above the water, with arbutus, ash, and holly growing from its fissures. Tradition states that O'Donohoe, a man of gigantic stature, doomed his obstinate enemies to perish on this rock by cold or famine or bound them in fetters until they submitted.

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    two miles, Tomies and Glena mountains rise, in the most abrupt, bold, precipitous manner, from the surface of the waters, having their bases thickly wooded with oaks and hollies. O'Donohoe's Prison is a perpendicular rock, thirty feet above the general surface of the waters ; it does not appear to be covered by a coat of earth sufficient to give nutriment to the smallest plant, yet, upon its very summit, shooting from the fissures of the rock, the arbutus, ash. and holly, may be seen, adorned with the most luxuriant foliage. The tradition relative to O'Donohoe states him to have been a man of gigantic stature, warlike boldness, and great bodily strength : upon this rock the most obstinate of his enemies were doomed to perish by cold or famine, or were bound in fetters until they acknowledged submission to his will. His native historians relate, that, being pursued by a number of enemies, upon one occasion, his charger, in attempting to cross a morass, sunk below the saddle bow, upon which the herculean rider dismounted, and, placing a stone under each of his feet, pulled his gallant steed completely out by the ears. The shade of O'Donohoe,* says his traditionary biographers, still haunts the scenes of his former greatness, and

    * For the legend of O'Donohoe, see the Poem of Killarney.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 27

24. Ogham-inscribed stone in Aghadoe Cathedral walls

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    A stone bearing an inscription in the mysterious Ogham character was built into the walls of Aghadoe Cathedral. The Ogham script, consisting of intersecting horizontal and perpendicular lines, was used by the ancient Irish and is found at multiple sites in Kerry.

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    In the Collectanea de Rebus Hibernicis, may be seen a plate of a stone in the walls of Aghadoe Cathedral, on which is cut an inscription in the Ogham character. This mysterious hieroglyphical letter, whose powers are now totally lost, was used by the ancient Irish or Indo -Scythians. The inscriptions are merely horizontal, or perpendicular lines, intersected at right angles by a number of parallel lines, or darts, of unequal lengths. The learned Mr. Pelham supplied General Vallancey with many instances of such inscriptions in the county of Kerry, which have been published in the sixth volume of the Collectanea.

    As to the meaning or translations of these mystical writings, the antiquarian should conjecture with caution ; one instance from many may indicate the propriety of this advice. In the catalogue of inscribed stones, in the sixth vol. of the

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 57

25. Subterranean grotto reputed to reach Gill-Abbey

    near Gillabbey · townland · Cork

    A subterranean grotto with stalactical walls and roof was explored for a quarter mile or more. Local peasantry asserted the passage reached as far as Gill-Abbey near Cork, reflecting a folk tradition about the cave's extent.

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    for the guides are not at all acquainted with the intricacies of this subterranean wonder. The sides and roof are covered with a stalactical matter, or gypsum, which is a most efficacious cement. Persons are said to have proceeded for a quarter of a mile, or upwards, into this grotto in safety, and the peasantry about the village assert, that it reaches as far as Gill-Abbey, near Cork.

    The next village of consequence is Macroom, fourteen miles two furlongs, from Ballincollig, and nineteen from Cork. The Castle of Macroom, the seat of II. Hedges Eyre, Esq. is a stately building, modernized. It was at first built by the Carews, shortly after the English conquest, though its erection is also attributed to the Daltons. It was repaired and beautified by Teig Macarty, who expired there in 1563, and who was father of the celebrated Lord Muskerry mentioned by Camden. The late Earls of Clancarty rebuilt and altered it, after its destruction by fire in the wars of 1641. When Dean Swift visited this country, he expressed the warmest admiration of this castle and demesne. In one of its apartments was born the famous Admiral Sir William Pen.* The Roman Catholic Chapel of Macroom is also worth visiting.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 5

26. Carrauntoohil measured as highest mountain in Ireland

    near Carrauntoohil · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Carran Tual (Carrauntoohil) was measured by Mr. Nimmo at 3,410 feet above sea level, surpassing Mangerton at 2,550 feet. The mountain's name means 'the inverted reaping hook,' which its summit outline strongly resembles. It is the highest peak in the vicinity of Lough Leane.

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    The youthful traveller seldom quits the scene of inquiry without ascending the highest mountain and penetrating the deepest glen. In all mountainous districts there is always one peak famed for its extraordinary elevation and difficulty of access. In the vicinity of Lough Lein, Carran Tual is the cloud-capped summit, marked out as the highest. Mangerton was formerly considered higher, but the late measurements of Mr. Nimmo have shown Carran Tual to be three thousand, four hundred and ten feet above the level of the sea, while Mangerton is only two thousand, five hundred and fifty.

    Having taken horse at Killarney, pursue the Aghadoe road, and so pass over the Laune bridge, by Dunloe gate ; then, turning to the right, at the distance of a mile, is a little village, at the very foot of the Reeks. Here a guide, who understands the shortest routes up the hill, and is, consequently, better qualified than any person from Killarney, may be had for a trifling sum. Heing properly equipped for an arduous and laborious pedestrian excursion, direct your course towards

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 59

27. Devil's Punch Bowl on Mangerton Mountain

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry

    The Devil's Punch Bowl is an oval pool about two furlongs in diameter with very dark, cold waters, set against the precipitous side of Mangerton. Though long thought to be the crater of an extinct volcano, no volcanic remains are discoverable on the mountain to support that conclusion. A guide's tradition of blowing a horn at the pool's edge produces a singular echoing effect first suggested by Miss Plumtree.

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    the trouble or necessity of once dismounting from your shelly. This celebrated pool is of an oval form, and perhaps two furlongs in diameter ; its waters are very dark and cold ; on one side the mountain rises very precipitously over it, while the other is protected by an elevation merely sufficient to confine its waters.* Weld mentions an anecdote of Mr. Fox, whom he states as having swam round this pool, but I should think the experiment hardly practicable ; for although with respect to distance it might be done by a person of great bodily strength, and experience in the art of swimming, yet the cold would most likely produce cramps that would either endanger life or compel the resignation of so hardy an attempt. It has generally been considered that the Devil's Punch Bowl is the crater of an extinct volcano, but there are, at this day, no remains discoverable around the mountain to justify this conclusion. There is a path leading round the Bowl, and to the very summit of Mangerton,

    • Hughe's etymology of the appellation " Devil'i Punch Howl," is extremely ludicrous. " This JKJO]," says he, " being supplied by an inexhaustible spring at the bottom, may and \VIM», consequently, compared to the bowl of punch round which u party was assembled, into the bottom of which Satan had inserted an invisible spring, imperceptibly recruiting the continued decrease of the liquor within."— HA. Curios*.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 53

28. Extraordinary limestone cave at the Village of Ovens

    Ovens · electoral division · Cork

    Near the junction of the Bride and Lee rivers, the Church and Village of Ovens contains an extraordinary limestone cave with heights varying from six to over twenty feet. Numerous diverging corridors extend from the entrance, some looping back and others continuing to unascertained lengths.

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    Near the junction of the Bride and Lee stand the Church and Village of Ovens.* Here is an extraordinary cave, beneath a limestone arch ; in some places it is upwards of twenty feet high, in others, not more than six; there are numerous diverging corridors within about twenty yards from the entrance, some of them returning back into the cave, and others continuing to a length as yet unascertained. Strangers should be extremely cautious of venturing into this Cretan labyrinth, without such a clue as Ariadne gave to Theseus,

    * Perhaps a corruption of Owens.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 4

29. Hurricane saves island from French invasion fleet, 1796

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1796

    In 1796 a hurricane of unparalleled fury providentially rescued the island from the most formidable French fleet ever to leave France's shores, bearing a force there was no preparation to repel. Seventeen ships anchored near Bere Island under General Hoche's command.

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    the antidiluvian Beth landed here, and first took possession of the green island, with three men and fifty women. Here, on a small island, his attention will be directed to the site of a fortress belonging to that consummate statesman and leader, Carew, Lord President of Munster in the days of Elizabeth. Here also he will recollect the descent of a French fleet in 1789, under the command of Monsieur Perrault, which was only saved from the English fleet under Herbert by the unfavourable state of the wind, which did not permit more than a partial attack. And here also, last not least, he will recal the more formidable event of 1796 ; when this island was providentially rescued, by a hurricane of unparalleled fury, from the most formidable fleet that ever left the shores of France, bearing a force which there was no preparation to repel.*

    * As this event forms no small part of the authentic recollections of the place, the reader will be gratified by the perusal of the following official notification of this event.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 9

30. Lake of Gougane Barra, hermitage of St. Finbar

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    A lake about a mile long and half a mile broad, lying in a deep circular valley shut in by the precipitous mountains Dereen, Maolagh, Nadanuillar and Faoultena Gouganne. It is associated with St. Finbar and lies about seventeen miles from Bantry.

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    inn, the tourist is advised to start early, and not without due provision for the wants of his internal man. This lake is about a mile in length and half a mile in breadth. It lies in a deep circular valley, opening to the east, and on every other point shut in by the precipitous and rocky barriers of the mountains Dereen, Maolagh, Nadanuillar and Faoultena Gouganne. These wild elevations lift up their steep and rugged barriers perpendicularly from the border of the still and solitary water which reflects them from beneath. To convey the awful impression of this wild spot by words, would be a hopeless effort. But if — as is most likely — the reader has seen a small but exquisitely finished painting exhibited by the Royal Hibernian Academy in 1834, he may form some notion of Gougan Barry. In describing the spot, we cannot do better than to avail ourselves of this striking and, we fear not to say, unique picture. The reader may imagine himself looking nearly westward over the lake. Under him, and around his feet, lies a broken and craggy surface, tinged with the red, purple, and yellow tints of moss, heath, briar, and lichen ; and glowing with the bright and delicate tracery of the minute objects of a variegated foreground. Beyond this, over a gentle swell of crag and heather, drawn picturesquely across its nearer surface, the lake of Gougan

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 13

31. Mucruss Abbey as McCarthy burial site

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1600

    Mucruss Abbey continued to be the cemetery of the M'Carthys. Donald, Earl of Clancare, and Patrick, Lord Kerry, the earl's nephew who died in 1600, lie entombed there. A large marble flag in the choir floor bears the arms of the McCarthy Mores.

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    This abbey, says Archdall, has continued to be the cemetery of the M'Carthys. Donald, Earl of Clancare, and Patrick, Lord Kerry, the earl's nephew, who died in 1600, lie entombed here. In the floor of the choir is a large marble flag, bearing the arms of the McCarthy Mores.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 48

32. Sir Charles Wilmot surprises the O'Sullivans at Glengariff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    Sir Charles Wilmot, lieutenant of the Lord President, surprised the O'Sullivans in Glengariff, knowing the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond well. The Prince of Bear and Bantry fought in the face of his wife, children, and people among his own rocks, bogs, and woods.

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    " After the sack of his strong hold, O'Sullivan, with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle, took shelter in the woods of Glengariff. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry held communication with him along the ridges of Slievelogher. Eugene M'Egan, the Apostolic Vicar, was in the centre of the McCarthys of Carbery. But the Lord President was not to be withstood ; and his Lieutenant, Sir Charles Wilmot, who was as good a guerilla as Tyrrel, and who knew the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond, as well as if he were the son of a Sullivan, surprised the O'Sullivans in Glengariff. The Prince of Bear and Bantry, amidst his own rocks, bogs, and woods, fought in the face of his wife, children, and people; — the battle was

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, O'Sullivan took shelter in the woods with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle after his stronghold was sacked. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry held communication with him along the ridges of Slievelogher, and Eugene M'Egan, the Apostolic Vicar, was among the McCarthys of Carbery. But Sir Charles Wilmot, lieutenant of the Lord President, knew the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond as well as if he were the son of a Sullivan, and he surprised the O'Sullivans here in Glengariff. The Prince of Bear and Bantry fought among his own rocks, bogs, and woods, in the face of his wife, children, and people.

33. Aghadoe round castle defended by fosse and mound

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    A round castle at Aghadoe is described as a place of defence, evidenced by a fosse and mound encompassing it. It is compared to Dolbadern Castle in Wales and to similar round towers at Waterford and Tipperary. The round castle form is noted as rather uncommon in Ireland.

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    structed within the wall. Round castles are rather uncommon in Ireland ; there are two others, howfiver, nearly of the same height and diameter as this of Aghadoe, existing, the one at Waterford, called " Reginald's Tower," the other in the county of Tipperary, called " Nenagh Round." Dolbadern Castle, in the vale of Llanberris, in North Wales, is extremely like this at Aghadoe, which must have been a place of defence, as appears from the fosse and mound encompassing it.

    In the Collectanea de Rebus Hibernicis, may be seen a plate of a stone in the walls of Aghadoe Cathedral, on which is cut an inscription in the Ogham character. This mysterious hieroglyphical letter, whose powers are now totally lost, was used by the ancient Irish or Indo -Scythians. The inscriptions are merely horizontal, or perpendicular lines, intersected at right angles by a number of parallel lines, or darts, of unequal lengths. The learned Mr. Pelham supplied General Vallancey with many instances of such inscriptions in the county of Kerry, which have been published in the sixth volume of the Collectanea.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 57

34. Ancient arch construction technique in Mucruss Abbey cellar

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The cellar ceiling displays an ancient arch-building technique: a wicker-work frame covered with mud or marl was shaped and used as a mould to build upon. After the wicker was removed, the marl adhered to the arch and remains visible. The floor is strewn with coffin lids, skulls, and bones.

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    rious circumstance, that some persons have not nerves sufficiently strong to endure a lengthened visit within its precincts. The guide generally recommends visiters to beware of injuring this sacred tree ; and a story is gravely narrated of a soldier who having the impious audacity to strip a small piece of the bark with his pen-knife, instantly expired on the spot where this sacrilege was committed. Beneath this gloomy shade four tombs, devoid of inscription, and of recent date, are discovered, probably belonging to persons of the religious order. On the ground-floor is a long narrow room, but imperfectly lighted, called the cellar; the ceiling, which is an arch of stone, is rather a subject of curiosity, as showing most clearly the manner in which arches were thrown or turned by the masons of ancient days. A frame of wicker-work, tolerably strong, was covered with a thick coat of mud or marl, and, being reduced into the required shape, used as the mould to build upon ; the wicker work being removed, the marl adhered to the arch, and is still perfectly obvious. The floor of the wine-cellar exhibits a spectacle shocking to humanity ; lids of coffins, with their commemorating inscriptions, skulls and bones, which have not yet lost the odour of putrefaction, lie strewn upon the ground. In a small closet, near the wine-cellar? myriads of coffin boards are stowed in, so that all entrance id

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 49

35. Dunloe Castle, retreat of Kerry chieftains

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry · 1558–1660

    Dunloe Castle, the residence of Major Mahony, is an ancient hold modernised with yew-wood floors and commodious apartments. It served as a frequent retreat for Kerry chieftains during the wars of Elizabeth's reign and under the Commonwealth government.

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    appears raising its head amongst the forest trees, and having its gloomy outline relieved on the surface of the still gloomier mountains behind. The castle, the residence of Major Mahony, is an ancient hold, modernised in a comfortable manner ; the floors are of yew wood, more beautiful than the closest mahogany, and the apartments extremely commodious. Owing to the extraordinary thickness of the woods, the views from the walks are interrupted, but from the embattled summit of the walls it is very commanding. This castle was frequently the retreat of the Kerry chieftains in the wars, during the reign of Elizabeth, and under the Commonwealth government.

    A small well-made mountain road leads from Dunloe into a defile in the mountains between Tomies and M'G illy cuddy's Reeks, called the Gap of Dunloe. The hill on one side of the entrance is called the Holly mountain, that on the other the Bull mountain, but both are mere shoulders or projections of the larger hills. The entrance to the gap is very narrow, and the mountains quite perpendicular on each side. In a little wild romantic glen, a short distance from the entrance, is a small lake, whose waters assume a particularly dark hue, from the reflexion of the enormous mountain which hangs so immediately over it. On penetrating into the defile, our admiration of the wild scenery is gradually exchang-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 58

36. O'Sullivan's refuge in Glengariff woods

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    After the sack of his stronghold, O'Sullivan took shelter with his family, retainers, and cattle in the woods of Glengariff. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry communicated with him along the ridges of Slievelogher, while the Apostolic Vicar Eugene M'Egan was among the McCarthys of Carbery.

    Read the passage

    " After the sack of his strong hold, O'Sullivan, with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle, took shelter in the woods of Glengariff. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry held communication with him along the ridges of Slievelogher. Eugene M'Egan, the Apostolic Vicar, was in the centre of the McCarthys of Carbery. But the Lord President was not to be withstood ; and his Lieutenant, Sir Charles Wilmot, who was as good a guerilla as Tyrrel, and who knew the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond, as well as if he were the son of a Sullivan, surprised the O'Sullivans in Glengariff. The Prince of Bear and Bantry, amidst his own rocks, bogs, and woods, fought in the face of his wife, children, and people; — the battle was

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in these woods, O'Sullivan took shelter with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle after the sack of his stronghold. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry kept communication with him along the ridges of Slievelogher, while the Apostolic Vicar Eugene M'Egan was among the McCarthys of Carbery. But the Lord President was not to be withstood. His lieutenant, Sir Charles Wilmot, who knew the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond as well as any Sullivan, surprised the O'Sullivans here in Glengariff. The Prince of Bear and Bantry, amidst his own rocks, bogs, and woods, fought in the face of his wife, children, and people.

37. Purple Mountain's hue from shattered stone

    Purple Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    The Purple Mountain derives its name from a distinctive purple hue visible from almost any quarter. The author disputes the common attribution to heath or a nameless flowering plant, agreeing with Sir R. C. Hoare that the colour comes from loose shattered stones on the summit reflecting purple in strong sunlight.

    Read the passage

    most tourists to the heath, " or rather to a little nameless plant, bearing a purple flower, that covers the surface of the mountain ;" but this is certainly a mistake, and the cause of its continuance was the want of originality in the writers who described the beauties of Killarney, and who took up this idea without sufficient examination, merely because it was current before. When the sun shines strongly upon the summit of this mountain, a quantity of loose stones, shivered on its surface, may be seen, which reflect a purple colour, and to which the hue of the mountain is to be attributed ; this opinion is also adopted by that accomplished, judicious, and learned tourist, Sir R. C. Hoare.

    The islands in the Upper Lake are very numerous, and many of some importance ; they generally consist of a green stone, which, close to the water, assumes a dark, muddy hue. This does not occur in the Lower Lake, nor in Turk, to the same extent, the islands in them being of limestone, which admits of such varieties of fantastic forms.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 43

38. Ross Island mines and Dane hammers

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry

    Lead and copper mines on Ross Island were worked at a very early period, and rude implements called 'Dane hammers'—large oval stones with marks for handle fastening—were found on the island. A vein of rich marble in the centre of the island was used by peasantry for tombstones.

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    These mines were worked at a very early period, and some of the rude implements used for breaking down the ore, are to be found on the island ; they are large oval stones, quite smooth, and round the centre of each is a mark, evidently caused by the fastening on of a convenient handle : they are called, by the country people, " Dane hammers," a belief still existing that they were formerly used by those invaders. Besides the various ores, there is a vein of tolerably rich marble in the centre of the island, used frequently by the peasantry for tomb-stones, which they seldom omit placing over the remains of their relatives.

    The shores of Ross island are beautiful and interesting in the extreme, being deeply indented, and possessing endless variety of commanding promontory, and retiring bay ; the rocks along its margin are worn into the most fanciful shapes, for every group of which the helms-man is supplied with an appropriate appellation ; the most aptly denominated are those to be seen in passing from Ross bay to Inisfallen, called the Books.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 26

39. Salmon dressed with arbutus wood at Glena Cottage

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    At Glena Cottage, salmon taken alive from the lake are split, cut into chunks, pierced with skewers of arbutus wood, stuck into a sod, and roasted at a turf fire. The arbutus wood is supposed to impart a peculiar flavour to the salmon.

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    Here the salmon, taken alive from the lake, are dressed in a most extraordinary mode, and which' though not very prepossessing in appearance, will he found much so in reality. The salmon is split from head to tail, and cut into junks ; these are pierced with skewers, made of arbutus wood, stuck perpendicularly into a sod, and is thus roasted at a turf fire : the arbutus is supposed to impart a very peculiar flavour to the salmon, and the tourist should not condemn it without trial.

    Before we conduct the reader beyond the confines of Glena bay, the joys of a stag hunt should be described. Amongst the various phenomena, beauties, amusements, &c. to be witnessed or enjoyed at the Lakes of Killarney, tourists seem to estimate the stag hunt as the most interesting of all. The joys of the chase were always attractive to the ancient Irish, and Hcde calls Ireland, an Island famous for staff huntiny ; but the sport thus alluded to was of a much more manly, arduous, and warlike character, than the effeminate task of participating in the prepared pa-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 35

40. Surrender of Ross Castle ends Munster hostilities, 1652

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1652

    The surrender of Ross Castle terminated hostilities in Munster and induced about five thousand of the Irish to lay down their arms. Lord Broghil was granted one thousand pounds yearly out of the estates of Lord Muskery as a result of the treaty.

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    The surrender of this castle terminated hostilities in Munster, and induced about five thousand of the Irish to lay down their arms. The conditions of the treaty of Ross castle were accurately fulfilled by parliament, by which Lord Broghil was granted one thousand pounds yearly, out of the estates of Lord Muskery.

    The castle, which was built by the family of O'Donoghoe-Ross,* is now an important ruin, standing upon a rock : it consists of a lofty, square building, with embattled parapets, formerly enclosed by a curtain wall, having round flankers at each corner, the ruins of which are yet visible. The interior possesses some extremely well proportioned apartments; and from the battlements may be had a most extensive panoramic view of

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 25

41. Bantry House and demesne of the Earl of Bantry

    Bantry · town · Cork

    The dwelling and demesne of the Earl of Bantry lie less than a mile from the town of Bantry. The house contains an excellent collection of pictures and its park stretches its green and wooded declivity down to the shore of Bantry Bay.

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    The dwelling and demesne of the Earl of Bantry, is within less than a mile from the town. The house contains an excellent collection of pictures. The park, in which it occupies a well selected site, stretches its green and wooded declivity down to the shore. On the opposite side, at the distance

    views to this country ; but does not appear to know whether the whole fleet — which consisted of about seventeen sail of the line, fifteen frigates, and, including transports and luggers, amounted to fifty sail — were all to re-assemble off Bantry. General Hochc was on board, commanding a considerable force.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry in Cork, the dwelling and demesne of the Earl of Bantry lies close to the town. The house holds an excellent collection of pictures, and its park stretches a green and wooded slope down to the shore of Bantry Bay. Off this same bay a fleet once gathered, about seventeen sail of the line, fifteen frigates, and with transports and luggers, fifty sail in all. General Hoche was on board, commanding a considerable force.

42. Eagle's Nest echo from swivel gun

    Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

    The Eagle's Nest, reached by sailing through Coleman's Leap and the passage between the Long Range and Newfoundland, was famed for its echo. Tourists disembarked at a pointed-out station where boatmen discharged a swivel gun to produce remarkable echoing effects.

    Read the passage

    swain and boatmen, the night previous, to have a boat, with a supply of provisions, to meet you near Lord Brandon's boat-house. Sail down the river into the Upper Lake, land on Ronan's island, dine and rest in the cottage ; after which, ascend the peak, and view the amphitheatre of hills enclosing the lake. After taking refreshment, sail through the archipelago of the seven islands, and then direct your course towards Derrycunnihy ; visit the waterfall, and Mr. Hyde's cottage ; coast along the base of Cromiglaun mountain. Time will not permit a visit to Esknamucky waterfall and glen. Entering Coleman's Leap, sail down the passage between the Long Range and Newfoundland, until you reach the Eagle's Nest. Here disembark, and take a station which the cockswain will not fail to point out, while the swivel is discharged by the boatmen from the most advantageous situation for the production of echoes. Embarking again, continue your course with the stream, remembering to employ the bugle frequently along the passage between the lakes. The next object of surprise is the old Weir bridge : here the unpleasant ceremony of shooting the bridge is to be submitted to. Arrived at Dinis Island, pass into Turk Lake, coast the base of Turk mountain, and visit Turk cottage and waterfall ; there leave the boat, directing the cockswain to meet you again below the house of

    122 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 62

43. O'Donohoe's castle in the Glenflesk mountains

    near Glenflesk · population centre · Kerry

    In the wild and desolate country known as O'Donohoe's, near Glenflesk, stands the ruined tower of O'Donohoe's castle, once the lordly demesne of a petty prince. The barren waste surrounding the ruin contrasts sharply with its former status, and the landscape towards Glan Flesk, Filadavne, and the Paps is described as waste and dreary.

    Read the passage

    From the separating ridge between Glcanna Capull and the Punch Bowl, other pools or loughs are discovered ; one, Lough Na-maraghnarig, in a very elevated situation, and Lough Kittane, about two miles in length and one in breadth, in the Glan Flesk mountain. The view towards Glan Flesk, Filadavne, the Paps, &c. is waste and dreary : that part, usually called O'Donohoe's country, is particularly desert, wild, and desolate. And although at a remote period it was the lordly demesne of a petty prince, as O'Donohoe's castle, still raising its ruined tower in the centre of this barren waste, sufficiently indicates, yet it is now almost ungrateful to the eye to rest upon.

    The descent of Mangerton is more readily accomplished on foot than on horseback, and is equally easy, pleasant, and interesting, as the

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 54

44. Turk Cascade, a sixty-foot waterfall in a mountain chasm

    near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

    Turk Cascade is a waterfall of about sixty feet situated in a chasm between Turk and Mangerton Mountains, about a furlong behind Turk Cottage. It is fed by the Devil's Punch Bowl on Mangerton's summit and its glen was planted with larch and fir by Colonel Herbert, whose workmen had to be lowered by ropes.

    Read the passage

    Behind the cottage, at the distance of about a furlong, in a chasm between Turk and Mangerton Mountains, is Turk Cascade, a fall of about sixty feet, which, in rainy seasons, exhibits one continued sheet of foam, from the stage whence it shoots to the natural basin below : it is supplied from a small lake, formed in the hollow of the summit of Mangerton, called the Devil's Punch Bowl, and the rivulet is thence denominated " The Devil's Stream." This cataract, after falling into a deep and gloomy reservoir below, hurries impetuously along the bottom of a rocky glen, and, passing beneath a small bridge of Gothic arches, mingles its waters with those of the lake. One side of the glen is completely perpendicular, ;uid richly clothed with larch and fir, planted by Colonel Herbert. Owing to the extreme perpendicularity of the sides of the glen, immediately near the waterfall, the men employed in planting the firs, were obliged to be lowered by ropes from

    76 TURK LAKE.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 38

45. Mangerton and the Devil's Punch Bowl

    Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Tourists ascended Mangerton Mountain accompanied by a bugle to test the extraordinary echo effects at the Devil's Punch Bowl, a notable crater-like feature near the summit. The Glen of the Horse was noted as not visitable on this particular route.

    Read the passage

    Mucruss, in Castle Lough Bay ; ascend Mangerton, still accompanied by the bugle, and arriving at the Devil's Punch Bowl, try its extraordinary effects. The Glen of the Horse cannot be visited upon this route. Descending to the village of Cloghereen, visit Mucruss abbey, and, passing on to the shores, embark once more upon the lake in Castle Lough Bay : sail round Ross Island to Inisfallen, thence to Ross Castle, where the guide-boys generally have a mode of conveyance ready to carry the traveller to Killarney. In this route, many interesting objects are necessarily neglected, and others but imperfectly seen, at the same time that a very extensive and delightful tour has been accomplished in a wonderfully short space of time. The personal fatigue of this journey is great, and the arrangements require to be made with judgment. A six-oared boat should be employed, also excellent ponies, and active boys to rendezvous at the appointed places.

    Two Days' Tour.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 62

46. Earl of Bantry's family history and peerage titles

    Bantry · town · Cork · 650–1816

    The ancestors of the White family entered the country in the middle of the seventh century. The present lord was created baron in 1797, advanced to viscount in 1800, and created earl of Bantry and Viscount Berehaven in 1816, distinguished for his patriotic activity during the troubles of 1796.

    Read the passage

    may be seen the woods of Glengariff, rich with the promise of to-morrow's pleasure ; and beyond these a range of mountainous elevations, stretching in grey distance into Kerry. The ancestors of the family of Bantry are said to have entered this country in the middle of the seventh century. The present lord, whose family name is White, was created baron in 1797. In 1800 he was advanced in the peerage by the title of viscount ; and in 1816, was created earl of Bantry and Viscount Beerhaven. He is honourably distinguished for his brave and patriotic activity in the troubles of 1796.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Bantry in Cork, you are in the town that gives its title to the White family. Their ancestors are said to have entered this country in the middle of the seventh century. The present lord was created baron in 1797, advanced to viscount in 1800, and in 1816 created earl of Bantry and Viscount Beerhaven. He is honourably distinguished for his brave and patriotic activity in the troubles of 1796.

47. Ludlow's parliamentary army devastates Lough Lein vicinity

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry · 1652

    In 1652, the vicinity of Lough Lein was wasted by fire and sword by Ludlow and the parliament's army. The author suggests this date as a possible explanation for the destruction of Inisfallen's original buildings.

    Read the passage

    O'Donaghoes in 1180; but why not suppose them to be rather of more recent date, viz. 1652, when the vicinity of Lough Lein was wasted by fire and sword, by Ludlow and the parliament's army ?

    The annals are continued uninterruptedly down to 1320, but do not contain any matter of interest. In 1320, Dermod M'Carthy, King of Desmond, who was murdered at Tralee, was interred here. The writer of the early part of the annals of Inisfallen, lived only to the year 1215, from which period to 1320 they are continued by another historian. These annals contain a history of the world from the creation to the year 430, after which they treat solely of Irish history : a perfect copy of them is preserved in the library of the Duke of Chandos, according to Bishop Nicholson, and there is an imperfect copy in the manuscriptroom in the University of Dublin. The Dublin Society possess a copy of Sir James Ware's MSSof these annals, translated by Walter Harris, the Irish antiquarian.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 31

48. The Gap of Dunloe and its bugle echoes

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    The Gap of Dunloe is a rocky defile where the bugle produces extraordinary acoustic effects. Travellers are advised to halt at the narrowest part of the pass to observe the echoes before riding through to the valley of Comme Duff.

    Read the passage

    Taking horses at, Killarney, and being attended by a buglernan, also mounted, start at five o'clock in the morning for Dunloe Gap ; two miles and a half from Killarney, turn up a narrow road, to the light, and visit the ruined tower and cathedral of Aghadoe. Arriving at the bridge over the Laune river, cross and ride a few hundred yards farther to the gate of the demesne of Dunloe castle ; here there is not much to detain the traveller who is in haste, except the view from the battlements. Leaving Dunloe castle, the seat of Major Mahony, about three quarters of a mile farther, enter the Gap of Dunloe. Here let the bugle be kept in constant employment. Halt in the narrowest part of the rocky defile, and observe the extraordinary effects of the bugle ; ride through the pass, and reach the valley of Comme Duff: here it will be necessary to send back the ponies, having desired guide-boys from Killarney, the night before, to meet you at that place for the purpose. The remaining part of the vale must be traversed on foot as far as Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Here ask permission to ascend the tower in the garden, from the top of which is a very commanding prospect. Direct your cock-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 61

49. Aghadoe antiquities: Round Tower, Pulpit, and Ogham stone

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Aghadoe Church was a key stopping point featuring a Round Tower, a Round Castle called 'the Pulpit' by the peasantry, and a stone bearing an Ogham inscription. These antiquities made it an essential site for tourists.

    Read the passage

    At an early hour on the morning of the third day, but remembering to take a hearty breakfast first, mount your shelty, and ride to Aghadoe Church. See the Round Tower, the Round Castle, called by the peasantry the Pulpit, and the stone bearing an Ogham inscription. Returning to the high road, pursue the road to Laune or Heaufort bridge, and, crossing the river, visit the Castle of Dunloe. After a short stay in the demesne, keep the mountain road to the Gap, and proceed, by slow and measured steps, through tin- Pass to the farther end in the vale of Conum- Dulf. The bugle should be kept in unceasing employment all through the Pass, but particularly under the castellated cliff hanging over the pool in which the guide asserts there is an enormous serpent.

    Kntering the valley of Comnie Dun", visit the Waterfall, the best supplied cascade in the whole country. See the islands on the Comnie Duff Lakes, and following the stony bed of a little mountain torrent, arrive at Gheratnine, the seat of Lord Brandon. See the cottage and tower, and

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 66

50. Amethysts found in County Kerry near Kerry Head

    near Kerry Head · promontory · Kerry

    Amethysts have been frequently found in County Kerry. The Earl of Shelbourne gathered valuable specimens, and the Countess of Kerry presented a necklace and ear-rings of amethysts found near Kerry Head to Queen Caroline, consort of George II.

    Read the passage

    Amethysts have been frequently found in the county of Kerry; the Earl of Shelbourne had some very valuable stones of this description gathered here ; and the Countess of Kerry presented a necklace and ear-rings of amethysts, found near Kerry Head, to Caroline, Queen of George II.

    In coasting along the bases of the majestic Tomies and Glena, towards the Upper Lake, several islands are passed, particularly Stag and Burnt islands, near Glena Point, under which a narrow channel is formed by an island called Darby's Garden. The cockswain generally informs visiters, that this island was so called from an angler of that name, who addressed Lord Kenmare, as he passed in his yawl to the Upper Lake, and besought the commonage of this rock from his lordship : but the stranger will find that much more trifling occurrences have been the occasions of naming the islands of Killarney.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 33

51. Carew's fortress site on small island in Bantry Bay

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1558–1603

    On a small island in Bantry Bay stood the site of a fortress belonging to Carew, Lord President of Munster during the reign of Elizabeth. The fortress represents the strategic importance of the bay during the Elizabethan era.

    Read the passage

    the antidiluvian Beth landed here, and first took possession of the green island, with three men and fifty women. Here, on a small island, his attention will be directed to the site of a fortress belonging to that consummate statesman and leader, Carew, Lord President of Munster in the days of Elizabeth. Here also he will recollect the descent of a French fleet in 1789, under the command of Monsieur Perrault, which was only saved from the English fleet under Herbert by the unfavourable state of the wind, which did not permit more than a partial attack. And here also, last not least, he will recal the more formidable event of 1796 ; when this island was providentially rescued, by a hurricane of unparalleled fury, from the most formidable fleet that ever left the shores of France, bearing a force which there was no preparation to repel.*

    * As this event forms no small part of the authentic recollections of the place, the reader will be gratified by the perusal of the following official notification of this event.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 9

52. Lord Bantry's lodge on a river islet

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork · 1796–1834

    Lord Bantry's lodge is situated on a small islet within the river at Glengariff. The rustic bridge giving access to the lodge was built from the timber of a French ship belonging to the fleet of 1796.

    Read the passage

    arrested by the shadowy blue outline of Cape Clear in the western distance. A footpath by the river offers an astonishing variety of picturesque combinations, which shift with magical effect at every turn along its fantastic windings. Lord Bantry's lodge is situated on a little islet within this river. The rustic bridge by which it is entered is built from the timber of a French ship, belonging to the fleet of 1796. Two miles beyond this cottage is the Eagle's Nest ; it must be approached on foot or horseback. The cliff on which the eagle builds rises to an elevation of about five hundred feet. The interest of this spot is heightened by a romantic story.

    " After the sack of his strong hold, O'Sullivan, with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle, took shelter in the woods of Glengariff. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry held communication with him along the ridges of Slievelogher. Eugene M'Egan, the Apostolic Vicar, was in the centre of the McCarthys of Carbery. But the Lord President was not to be withstood ; and his Lieutenant, Sir Charles Wilmot, who was as good a guerilla as Tyrrel, and who knew the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond, as well as if he were the son of a Sullivan, surprised the O'Sullivans in Glengariff. The Prince of Bear and Bantry, amidst his own rocks, bogs, and woods, fought in the face of his wife, children, and people; — the battle was

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a footpath follows the river, and the water winds through combinations of rock and tree that shift at every turn. On a little islet in the river stands Lord Bantry's lodge. The rustic bridge that carries you across to it was built from the timber of a French ship, one that belonged to the fleet of 1796. Two miles beyond the lodge is the Eagle's Nest, a cliff rising about 500 feet, approached only on foot or horseback. But the ground around here holds an older story. After the sack of his stronghold, O'Sullivan took shelter in the woods of Glengarriff, with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry held communication with him along the ridges of Slievelogher. Eugene M'Egan, the Apostolic Vicar, was among the McCarthys of Carbery. The Lord President was not to be withstood. His lieutenant, Sir Charles Wilmot, who knew the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond as well as any Sullivan's son, surprised the O'Sullivans in Glengarriff. The Prince of Bear and Bantry, among his own rocks, bogs, and woods, fought in the face of his wife, children, and people.

53. Mucruss Abbey re-edified in 1602

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1602

    In 1602 the abbey was re-edified by the Roman Catholics, but was soon after suffered to go to ruin. The structure consisted of a nave, choir, transept, and cloisters, and remained remarkably perfect.

    Read the passage

    According to Archdall this abbey was founded by Donald, son of Thady M'Carthy, in 1440,f for convetitual Franciscans, and further improved and repaired by him in 1468, a few months before hi* death. In 1602 it was re-edified by the Roman Catholics, but was soon after suffered to go to ruin.

    The abbey consisted of a nave, choir, transept, and cloisters, with every apartment necessary to render it a complete and comfortable residence for the venerable inmates who once dwelt there. It is even now so perfect, that] were it more so, the ruin would be less pleasing. The entrance i*

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 48

54. Panoramic view from Mangerton summit

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry

    From the summit of Mangerton, an extensive and sublime panoramic view is visible in clear weather. The river of Kenmare is the most beautiful object, winding among mountain recesses, while the MacGillycuddy's Reeks, Sugar-loaf, Castlemaine and Dingle bays, Miltown bay, and the Tralee mountains are all visible.

    Read the passage

    from which there is a most extensive and sublime panoramic view in clear weather. The most beautiful object is the river of Kenmare, an arm of the sea, insinuating itself amongst the recesses between the mountains. The coast towards Bantry is also extremely grand ; but the most commanding and attractive objects are the Reeks and Sugar-loaf; to the north-west Castlemain and Dingle bays, Miltown bay, and the Tralee mountains are seen. While on the edge of the Punch Bowl, the Guide places his auditors behind a rock, and descending to the edge of the bowl, blows his horn in a tremulous manner, which produces a most singular effect. This experiment was first suggested by Miss Plumtree.

    There are several plants to be found on Mangerton, although its surface appears waste and barren in most places. Very near the top the London-pride, which is in England a garden flower, grows in great abundance. Close to the Punch Bowl grows the narrow-leaved mountain golden rod, besides the upright fir-moss, the fingered hart's-tongue, the cypress or heath-moss, the fenane-grass, the mountain millet-grass, and the mountain fern.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 53

55. Ross Island connected to mainland by causeway and bridge

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry

    Ross Island, the most considerable island in the Lower Lake, contains about eighty plantation acres and is connected to the mainland by a causeway and bridge. In summer the morass is dry but in winter Ross becomes perfectly insulated.

    Read the passage

    acres, is connected, by a causeway and bridge, with the main land : in summer, the morass, separating the island from the continent, is completely dry ; but in winter, Ross becomes again perfectly insulated. On this island, or rather peninsula, stands Ross castle, which held out so obstinately, under Lord Muskery, in 1652, against the English, commanded by General Ludlow. Upon the 26th of July, in that year, at Knockniclachy, in the county of Cork, a battle was fought between Lord Muskery, at the head of the Irish, and the Lord Broghil, commander of the English forces, in which the former were defeated with great slaughter, and Colonel Mac-Gillicuddy, a native of Kerry, and greatly beloved by the Irish, slain. Upon this defeat, Lord Muskery withdrew to Ross castle, whither he was followed by General Ludlow, with a body of four thousand foot and two hundred horse.* This experienced officer and upright statesman thus describes the siege of Ross castle : — " In this expedition I was accompanied by the Lord Broghil, and Sir Hardress Waller,f major-general of the foot. Being arrived at this place, I was informed that the enemy received continual supplies from those parts that lay on the other side, and were covered with woods

    * Ludlow's Memoirs, Vol. I. p. 415. f One of the Judges of King Charles I.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 24

56. Salmon dinner on arbutus skewers at Glena Cottage

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    Glena Cottage in Glena Bay offers a place for refreshment where a salmon is usually taken out of the lake and dressed on arbutus skewers for dinner.

    Read the passage

    From Dinis Island sail with the stream into Glena Bay. If the cottage of Dinis be not found sufficiently attractive to induce the party to take refreshment there, Glena Cottage most probably will. Here a salmon is usually taken out of the lake, in presence of the party, and dressed on arbutus skewers for their dinner. Coast the base of Glena Mountain ; pass Darby's Garden, and cross the water to Ross Island. The bugle should be kept in constant employment in Glena Bay ; and,

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 65

57. Serpent legend in the pool beneath the castellated cliff at Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    Within the Gap of Dunloe pass, a castellated cliff hangs over a pool where the guide claimed an enormous serpent dwelt. The bugle was to be kept in unceasing employment through the Pass, particularly at this spot.

    Read the passage

    At an early hour on the morning of the third day, but remembering to take a hearty breakfast first, mount your shelty, and ride to Aghadoe Church. See the Round Tower, the Round Castle, called by the peasantry the Pulpit, and the stone bearing an Ogham inscription. Returning to the high road, pursue the road to Laune or Heaufort bridge, and, crossing the river, visit the Castle of Dunloe. After a short stay in the demesne, keep the mountain road to the Gap, and proceed, by slow and measured steps, through tin- Pass to the farther end in the vale of Conum- Dulf. The bugle should be kept in unceasing employment all through the Pass, but particularly under the castellated cliff hanging over the pool in which the guide asserts there is an enormous serpent.

    Kntering the valley of Comnie Dun", visit the Waterfall, the best supplied cascade in the whole country. See the islands on the Comnie Duff Lakes, and following the stony bed of a little mountain torrent, arrive at Gheratnine, the seat of Lord Brandon. See the cottage and tower, and

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 66

58. Burial customs at Mucruss Abbey cemetery

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The cemetery south of Mucruss Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property hollow out rock and arch over it for coffin insertion, while the poor are buried barely twelve inches below the surface.

    Read the passage

    Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, and was a long narrow room, capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as that of his predecessor; for after a lapse of two years, he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry assemble in great numbers, to receive the benedictions of their pastors, and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this venerable building. The cemetery on the south of the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, and throw an arch over, which permit* the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is

    I!

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

59. Mac Gillycuddy's Reeks, highest hills in Kerry

    Macgillycuddy's Reeks · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Mac Gillycuddy's Reeks are the highest hills in Kerry, composed of stone easily shivered by winter storms, which slides down the steep precipitous faces into deep ravines. The text speculates their height may diminish over time from this erosion. The nearest of the Reeks to the Lake is called Ghirmeen.

    Read the passage

    rich wood. The Coombui mountains are seen in the distance, towards the south-west point, and Barnasna more westerly. In the west also are seen Baum, with its coni-formed summit, and Mac Gillycuddy's Reeks, with their lofty, shattered, and shelving tops. These hills, the highest in Kerry, are composed of a sort of stone which is easily shivered by the storms after winter, and slides down the steep precipitous face of the mountains, nor rests until it reaches the deep ravines at the foot of these almost inaccessible cliffs, so that it may, perhaps with some reason, be concluded, that their height is somewhat diminished in the lapse of time. The nearest of the Reeks to the Lake is called Ghirmeen, or Gheramine.* At the foot of Ghirmeen is the entrance to the wild and beautifully sequestered valley of Comme Duff. The river which waters this enchanting vale, is navigable as far as the boat-house of Lord Brandon, where is a place for disembarking, whence a pathway leads to the cottage of his lordship, totally embosomed in wood.

    In the centre of the garden attached to the cottage, on the summit of a little eminence, stands

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 42

60. Marble quarry on Mucruss Peninsula

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    A road cut through the wood leads to a marble quarry on the peninsula, from which green, red, black and variously coloured marbles have been raised. The quarry forms a bold rocky shore around a small bay ornamented with shrubs.

    Read the passage

    by the contrast they afford to the opposite shore. The house of Mucruss is old and tasteless, and the gardens are remarkable for possessing more rock than earth, from which spring the most delicate shrubs, and in the most luxuriant manner. A road cut through the wood leads to a marble quarry, from which green, red, black, and variously coloured marbles have been raised. The quarry is a broken, bold shore, surrounding a small bay, and ornamented with the most beautiful shrubs, scattered amongst the crags, and growing apparently in the fissures of the rocks.

    In passing along this winding, irregular pathr occasional glimpses are caught of the Lake, sparkling through the thick foliage ; and sometimes an opening amongst the trees permits a view of the lower Lake, and the lowlands near Killarney on the right; while Turk Mountain, hanging over the intervening Lake, is seen to the left. The shafts of a copper mine are also to be met with on the peninsula, but the mine has not been worked for some years. When the works were discontinued, about twenty-five thousand pounds worth of ore had actually been sold. Besides marble and copper, this peninsula also contains iron ore, a quantity of which was also raised.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 51