Guide to Killarney and Glengariff, with six engravings

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Red deer of Lough Leine as last of Ireland's forest herds

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   The red deer in the woods about Lough Lein are described as the only remaining part of the great herds once found in the forests that covered Ireland. The species was introduced into England from France but appears to be an old inhabitant of Ireland.

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   The species of deer, inhabiting the woods of Killarney, is called the stag or red deer ; it was introduced into England from France, but appears to be an old inhabitant of this country : and although the red deer continue wild in the Highlands of Scotland, yet those in the woods about Lough Lein are the only remaining part of the great herds that were to be found in the forests which once covered the face of this country ; the few remaining in England are confined to the moors that border on Cornwall and Devonshire. Various animals are much pleased by harmonious tones, but none are so completely overcome by their influence as the large stag, or red deer, as a proof of which take the following interesting anecdote from Playford's History of Music : — " As I travelled, some years since, near Koyston, I met a herd of stags, about twenty, on the road, following

   • It would not appear to the reader that this species of t-tafl hunt is as laborious or dangerous as that spoken of by the venerable Bede. but the author of the Hibernia Curiota, with his usual extravagant pourtrayin^, says, " there »« one imminent danger that awaits the hunter, which is, that he may forget where he is, and jump out of the boat."

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 36

2. Upper Lake of Killarney described

   Killarney · townland · Kerry · 1797

   The Upper Lake is about two and a half miles long with irregular breadth, its rocks and islands inhabited by hawks, ospreys, eagles, and other birds of prey. A 1797 tour by Mr. Holmes distinguished it as the most sublime of the three Killarney lakes.

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   The Upper Lake is about two miles and a half in length, but its breadth is irregular. The rocks and islands are inhabited by hawks, ospreys, eagles, and other birds of prey. In a tour through Ireland, made in the year 1797, by Mr. Holmes, is the following very just estimate of the comparative picturesque merits of the three Lakes of Killarney, and the serpentine river which connects them: "I should distinguish the Upper Lake as being the most sublime ; the Lower the most beautiful ; and Turk, or Mucruss, the most picturesque : the winding passage, leading to the Upper, contains a surprising combination of the three, and, probably, is not to be exceeded by any spot in the world."

   Mr. Curwen, whose taste and feeling as a tourist are acknowledged and admired, and whose admiration of the beauties of nature is sufficiently testified by his residence on Windermere, institutes a very just comparison between the Lakes

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 47

3. Annual patron and pilgrimages at Gougane Barra

   near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

   An annual patron is held on the island in Gougane Barra, which has been a frequent resort of pilgrimages. The Roman Catholic clergy have latterly discountenanced these practices as superstitious.

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   In the mean time, the island is gained. Here are many objects which will attract attention, but which require no explanation, and may be left to tell their own stories. A holy well will explain its uses by its votive rags ; and the primitive materials and rude masonry will tell at first glance that centuries must have passed over the ruins of St. Finbar's dwelling, with remains of which the isle is covered. Here the anchorite flourished (as old books say) some time or other before Cork was built, as he is said to be the founder of that city and its cathedral. A long succession of venerable anchorites occupied his dwelling and imitated his virtues ; of whom the last was Father Denis O'Mahony. There is an annual patron held in this island, and it is, or has been, the fre-

   GOUGAN BARRY. 25

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala

4. Boat hire on Killarney lakes owned by Lord Kenmare

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   Boats for visiting the Lakes of Killarney are the property of Lord Kenmare and procured from one of his stewards. The hire is described as extravagant, with additional charges for five boatmen, whiskey, dinner, a bugleman and fisherman.

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   The first thing to be resolved upon, on arriving at the inn, is the route that is to be adopted for the following day. If it be the gap of Dunloe, horses are to be provided, which are to be had here on much more reasonable terms than in Westmoreland ; but if the intention be to visit the Lake, the cockswain who steers the boat, the bugle-man, gunner, &c., are to be sent for, and directed to be in readiness. And here, certainly, the most disgraceful circumstance connected with a visit to the Lakes of Killarney is discovered : the hire of a boat is a very extravagant sum in the first instancef but this the cockswain or boatmen cannot interfere with, the boats being the property of Lord Kenmare, from one of whose stewards they are procured ; but, in addition, the boatmen and cockswain (five persons at least) are to be paid two shillings each for their labour, a bottle of whiskey a man, with dinner for the entire party, including a bugleman and fisherman. How different from the modest charges of Derwent and Windermere ! The boats are large,

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 23

5. Bugle effects at the Devil's Punch-bowl

   Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry

   The Devil's Punch-bowl on Mangerton Mountain is noted for the extraordinary acoustic effects produced by a bugle, with a ridge dividing it from Gleanna Capull.

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   Having despatched a messenger, the preceding evening, to Mucruss House, or Cahernane, with a note requesting permission to visit the Abbey, and having obtained this favour, leave the inn at five in the morning, mounted on a strong shelty, attended by a guide-boy and a bugleman : cross the Flesk River, pass Cahernane, Castle-Lough, and Mucruss Demesnes, and leaving the village of Cloghereen behind, ride up the front of Mangerton Mountain : try the effect of the bugle at the Punch-bowl; walk round the edge of the Bowl, along the summit of the ridge dividing the Devil's Punch-bowl from Gleanna Capull,* and let the bugleman descend a short distance down the steep side of the glen, while the tourist remains on the top. The effect of the bugle in this situation is very extraordinary. [See Mangerton.]

   Let the guides conduct the shelties to the foot of the mountain, and there await the party, who will find it more practicable to walk than ride down from the Punch-bowl. Having again reached the village of Cloghereen, visit the Abbey of Mucruss and the peninsula, and walk along the shore to Castle-Lough Bay. Take notice of the rock called O'Donohoe's Horse. Have the boat

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 63

6. Carbuncle and pearl legends of Lough Lein

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   Peasants on the borders of the lake assert that a precious stone called a carbuncle can be seen in clear weather in the deepest water. O'Flaherty recorded that pearls were found in the lake, though latterly few have been found in the lake itself, with several found in the river Laune.

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   In this voyage the deepest water is sailed over, at the bottom of which the peasantry, inhabiting the borders of the Lake, assert that a species of precious stone, called a carbuncle, is to be seen in clear weather. O'Flaherty mentions that pearls have been found in this Lake, " Et in co stayno margnriUE multte. rejteriutUur, t/uas jtonutit rcyts in auribus suis ;" latterly but few have been found

   9

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 33

7. Copper mine on Mucruss Peninsula

   Muckross · townland · Kerry

   Shafts of a copper mine are found on the peninsula, though the mine has not been worked for some years. When operations ceased, about twenty-five thousand pounds worth of ore had been sold, and iron ore was also raised.

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   In passing along this winding, irregular pathr occasional glimpses are caught of the Lake, sparkling through the thick foliage ; and sometimes an opening amongst the trees permits a view of the lower Lake, and the lowlands near Killarney on the right; while Turk Mountain, hanging over the intervening Lake, is seen to the left. The shafts of a copper mine are also to be met with on the peninsula, but the mine has not been worked for some years. When the works were discontinued, about twenty-five thousand pounds worth of ore had actually been sold. Besides marble and copper, this peninsula also contains iron ore, a quantity of which was also raised.

   In pursuing the tour of this peninsula, several beautiful bays are discovered, one in particular, whose rocky arms, which embrace it, are crowned

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 51

8. Eagle's Nest echo from paterara discharge

   Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

   At the Eagle's Nest, tourists disembarked while a paterara was discharged against the front of the rock. The echo, however, was returned not from the Eagle's Rock itself but from the deep bosom of the adjacent mountain.

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   Embarking once more, double the headland, and pass through Coleman's Leap into the natural canal connecting the Upper and Lower Lakes. Observe the variously formed rocks, viz. the Manof-War and Cannon Rocks, &c. along the banks of this passage, and, arriving under the Eagle's Nest, it will be necessary to disembark for a few minutes, while the paterara is discharged against the front of the rock. The echo, however, is not returned from the Eagle's Rock, but from the deep bosom of the mountain adjacent to it. The rapidity of the stream, and the inclination and skill of the boatmen, it being now late, will speedily urge the oar-impelled bark to the old

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 66

9. French fleet descends on Bantry Bay, 1789

   near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1789

   A French fleet under the command of Monsieur Perrault descended on Bantry Bay in 1789. The fleet was only saved from the English fleet under Herbert by unfavourable winds that prevented more than a partial attack.

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   the antidiluvian Beth landed here, and first took possession of the green island, with three men and fifty women. Here, on a small island, his attention will be directed to the site of a fortress belonging to that consummate statesman and leader, Carew, Lord President of Munster in the days of Elizabeth. Here also he will recollect the descent of a French fleet in 1789, under the command of Monsieur Perrault, which was only saved from the English fleet under Herbert by the unfavourable state of the wind, which did not permit more than a partial attack. And here also, last not least, he will recal the more formidable event of 1796 ; when this island was providentially rescued, by a hurricane of unparalleled fury, from the most formidable fleet that ever left the shores of France, bearing a force which there was no preparation to repel.*

   * As this event forms no small part of the authentic recollections of the place, the reader will be gratified by the perusal of the following official notification of this event.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 9

10. O'Sullivans as aboriginal lords of Bear and Bantry

    Bantry · town · Cork

    The O'Sullivans are described as the aboriginal lords of Bear and Bantry, comparable in historical interest to the families associated with Killarney. The author anticipates their growing renown among tourists as the region becomes more familiar.

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    To perform this task on a minuter scale would be the subject of no small volume. The splendid mountain and sea views — the picturesque glens and vallies — the objects of historical or legendary interest — are numerous, beyond the scope of the ordinary tourist. These particulars will present themselves variously to the traveller according to his time* and emerge into distinct notice as the country grows familiar. In a few seasons the O'Sullivans, aboriginal lords of Bear and Bantry, may become as renowned in the tourist's tale as their traditionary brethren of Killarney ; — the geologist's hammer will have echoed from the argillaceous schistus of every valley, and struck sparks from the flint of every summit. In the mean time, the characteristic features of the district— the splendid sterility of the mountain side — the rude cultivation of the vale — the earthbuilt hovel — the real Kerry cow, which (by a peculiarly appropriate Iricism) is only to be found in the mountains of Cork — and the flock of goats, forming no mean feature of the upland scene — will have told their own tale to the most careless eye.

    In drawing up this additional matter, our re-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 1

    As the companion tells it

    O'Sullivan material - aboriginal lords of Bear and Bantry Place: Bantry Cork The author notes that the splendid mountain and sea views, the picturesque glens and valleys, and the objects of historical or legendary interest in this region are numerous, beyond the scope of the ordinary tourist. These particulars will present themselves variously to the traveller according to his time and emerge into distinct notice as the country grows familiar. The author anticipates that in a few seasons the O'Sullivans, aboriginal lords of Bear and Bantry, may become as renowned in the tourist's tale as their traditionary brethren of Killarney. The geologist's hammer will have echoed from the argillaceous schistus of every valley and struck sparks from the flint of every summit. In the meantime, the characteristic features of the district make themselves known: the splendid sterility of the mountain side, the rude cultivation of the vale, the earth-built hovel, the real Kerry cow, which, by a peculiarly appropriate Irishism, is only to be found in the mountains of Cork, and the flock of goats, forming no mean feature of the upland scene. All these will have told their own tale to the most careless eye.

11. Ruined tower and cathedral at Aghadoe

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Tourists travelling from Killarney are directed to turn up a narrow road about two and a half miles from Killarney to visit the ruined tower and cathedral of Aghadoe, before continuing toward the Laune river and Dunloe.

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    Taking horses at, Killarney, and being attended by a buglernan, also mounted, start at five o'clock in the morning for Dunloe Gap ; two miles and a half from Killarney, turn up a narrow road, to the light, and visit the ruined tower and cathedral of Aghadoe. Arriving at the bridge over the Laune river, cross and ride a few hundred yards farther to the gate of the demesne of Dunloe castle ; here there is not much to detain the traveller who is in haste, except the view from the battlements. Leaving Dunloe castle, the seat of Major Mahony, about three quarters of a mile farther, enter the Gap of Dunloe. Here let the bugle be kept in constant employment. Halt in the narrowest part of the rocky defile, and observe the extraordinary effects of the bugle ; ride through the pass, and reach the valley of Comme Duff: here it will be necessary to send back the ponies, having desired guide-boys from Killarney, the night before, to meet you at that place for the purpose. The remaining part of the vale must be traversed on foot as far as Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Here ask permission to ascend the tower in the garden, from the top of which is a very commanding prospect. Direct your cock-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 61

12. The Pulpit round castle at Aghadoe

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Near Aghadoe church stand the ruins of an old round castle called the Pulpit, with an interior diameter of twenty-five feet and a present height of about thirty feet. It evidently consisted of two stories, the basement lit by one window and the upper floor by three, with access via a staircase.

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    Near the church are the ruins of an old round castle, usually called the Pulpit, the interior diameter of which is twenty-five feet; its height, at present, is about thirty feet, nor does it appear to have been much more lofty. It evidently consisted of but two stories, of which the lower or basement was lighted by one window, the second by three. The asceut was by a sUurcase, con-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 56

13. Antiquities and defences in Bantry Bay

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

    The isles of Bantry Bay are crowned with an ancient castle, a modern battery, a Martello tower, and the ruins of a fishing palace, adding historical interest to the rich landscape.

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    and islets, one crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a modern battery — here a Martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing palace ;* and to finish the setting of this rich jewel, the trees, woods, hills, and fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry, his green and highly dressed lawn, sweeping down in easy undulations to the very water's edge. I cannot say how much I was struck with this delightful tout ensemble. And certainly, as was exemplified here, any thing that is admirable is made much more so by contrast. I had for miles travelled over a dull and dreary way — bare, desolate, unsatisfactory — rocky elevations, or gloomy moors, crowded with miserable huts, a population evidently and fearfully increasing, amidst difficulties and privations altogether insufficient to check its monstrous progress ; and I had read Malthus's convincing but gloomy book ; and war, pestilence, and famine, ' terribiles visit formte,' rose up in necessary association, as summoned to feast on and make prey in future of this teeming population. It therefore was a pleasant relief, coming down from this district, to rest on the sweet green shores of Bantry Bay, to feast the eye on the wooded hills, with all their herds and deer, of Lord Bantry *s park, hanging as it docs in umbra -

    • Fishing palaces, as they were called, were large establishments on the coast, where they used to cure pilchards.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 8

14. Eagle's Nest and its evening echoes

    Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

    The natural canal linking the lakes is peculiarly delightful at evening, when the stillness of the atmosphere is appropriate to the production of echoes beneath the Eagle's Nest. The meandering river and luxuriant arbutus, yews, and hollies along the banks enhance the experience.

    Read the passage

    The navigation of this natural canal is peculiarly delightful at evening time : the smoothness of the water, in which are seen reflected the woods and hills; the stillness of the atmosphere, so appropriate to the production of echoes beneath the Eagle's Nest, the meandering of the river, and the exuberance and luxuriance of the arbutus, yews, and hollies, which clothe the banks, produce the most delightful feelings.

    It is quite absurd to point out particular stations where advantageous views may be had, for the precise spot can seldom be discovered ; and, besides, every tourist finds the greatest pleasure in making such discoveries for himself; and stations would be multiplied ad infinitum, if all those that are worth mentioning were pointed out here :

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 46

15. Festival of St. Francis at Mucruss Abbey

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The Festival of St. Francis, patron saint of the abbey, is celebrated every July. Great numbers of peasantry assemble among the tombs and ruined walls to receive blessings and make confessions.

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    Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, and was a long narrow room, capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as that of his predecessor; for after a lapse of two years, he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry assemble in great numbers, to receive the benedictions of their pastors, and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this venerable building. The cemetery on the south of the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, and throw an arch over, which permit* the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is

    I!

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

16. Gap of Dunloe, narrow mountain defile

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    A mountain road leads from Dunloe into a narrow defile between Tomies and MacGillycuddy's Reeks, called the Gap of Dunloe. The entrance is flanked by the Holly and Bull mountains, and within the gap lies a small dark-hued lake beneath overhanging cliffs.

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    A small well-made mountain road leads from Dunloe into a defile in the mountains between Tomies and M'G illy cuddy's Reeks, called the Gap of Dunloe. The hill on one side of the entrance is called the Holly mountain, that on the other the Bull mountain, but both are mere shoulders or projections of the larger hills. The entrance to the gap is very narrow, and the mountains quite perpendicular on each side. In a little wild romantic glen, a short distance from the entrance, is a small lake, whose waters assume a particularly dark hue, from the reflexion of the enormous mountain which hangs so immediately over it. On penetrating into the defile, our admiration of the wild scenery is gradually exchang-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 58

17. Herbert family settlement at Mucruss

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1656

    Thomas Herbert of Kilcow was the first of the Herberts to settle in Kerry, enfeoffed by Edward Lord Herbert of Castleisland in April 1656. The present possessor of Mucruss is descended from him.

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    the fifth year of his reign. The first of the Herberts who settled in this county was Thomas Herbert, of Kilcow, esq. of which lands and others he was enfeoffed by Edward Lord Herbert of Oherbury and Castle Island, April 18th 1656, from whom the present possessor of Mucruss is descended.*

    The demesne includes a large tract of land on the borders of the Lower, and Mucruss Lakes, extending from Castle Lough to the foot of Turk, together with the Peninsula of Mucruss, which separates these Lakes. After visiting the Abbey, a pleasing walk through the woods leads to the summit of a hill called " Drumaouk ;"f from this rising ground is seen the house of Mucruss, with its verdant lawn enclosed by a wood which fringes the Lake, and continues along the entire peninsula to the point of Cammillan, a distance of nearly three miles. On the opposite side of the Lake, Toniics and Glena rise from the water with incredible magnificence, and possess a soft and gentle outline, while the Kagle's Nest exhibits a bold, broken, and savage aspect. Here it is, then, that the flat, swampy grounds about Killarncy are enabled to contribute to the beauty of the scenery,

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 51

18. Man of War rock in the connecting river

    Man of War · population centre · Dublin

    The Man of War is a large mass of rock in the river passage between the Lakes, resembling a ship with a yew tree on its summit standing for mast and sails. Its analogy to a vessel is noted by the boatmen.

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    Pursuing the voyage along this natural and serpentine canal, various small islands and grotesque rocks are pointed out. Miss Plummer's island is soon passed, and, shortly after, a large mass of rock, called the Man of War, presents itself; it is exceedingly like the work of art, to which the cockswain compares it, and the analogy is farther preserved by a large yew upon its summit, whose stem and branches are the representatives of the mast and sails.

    The Eagle's Nest is the next important object in the passage. It is placed in a hanging crag, near the summit of an almost perpendicular rock, of a pyramidal form, and twelve or thirteen hundred feet in height. When viewed from a distance, this much celebrated rock, so frequently the subject of the painter and the poet, appears quite contemptible, from the superior height of the adjacent mountains ; but the approach to its

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 39

19. Singular holly tree on western shore of Glena Bay

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    On the western shore of Glena bay stood a remarkable holly tree into which an oak, ash, hazel, birch, and thorn were incorporated, appearing to grow from its body. The phenomenon was recorded by Hush in his Hibernia Curiosa.

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    usual course is under the woods of Glena ; perhaps there is scarcely any thing in the sublime, the horrible, the picturesque, and beautiful, that is not illustrated in the bay of Glena ; — the majestic Turk, the gloomy Mangerton, with a continued chain of dark and lofty mountains behind them; then the entrance to Turk Lake, and the channel to the upper, possessing beauty and variety ; with the bay of Glena, sheltered by a lofty hill, possessing the scenic character of both the others. The summit of Glena is bare, naked, barren, wild, and rugged, while the base is clothed with a deep mass of unbroken wood, of rich and varied shades, almost dipping their foliage in the water. On the western shore of Glena bay stands a most singular phenomenon, thus described by Hush, in his Hibernia Curiosa, " I have seen an uak, an ash, an hazel, a birch, and a thorn, so incorporated into the trunk of an old lively holly, that they appeared to grow out of its very body, and to exist by feeding on its vitals." — Hush, 14.5. Holmes, 126.

    In the bay of Glena will be found a most pleasing echo, from the impending mountain>, which is much increased in strength and distinctness of articulation by the auditor being stationed at a considerable interval from the origin of the sound. This may be readily accomplished, and to the best possible advantage, by a party, at-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 34

20. Aghadoe ruined church

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    The ruined church of Aghadoe sits atop a long, low green hill about two and a half miles north of Killarney. It is a venerable ancient building of rude workmanship, measuring between eighty and ninety feet in length and about thirty in breadth, now in a very dilapidated condition making it difficult to determine its original form.

    Read the passage

    The church of Aghadoe is a venerable, ancient building, originally of but rude workmanship, measuring, probably, between eighty and ninety feet in length, and about thirty in breadth; the whole length is separated by a thick wall, in which traces of a door-way are discoverable. The chancel was lighted from the east by two long lancet loop-holes, but the whole is, at this day, in such a dilapidated condition, that but a very imperfect idea can be formed of what it originally

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 55

21. Brickeen Bridge, a Gothic arch by Colonel Herbert

    Brickeen Bridge · bridge · Kerry

    Brickeen Bridge unites the promontory of Mucross with Brickeen Island via a single Gothic arch, seventeen feet high and twenty-seven feet in span. It was built by the late Colonel Herbert.

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    Brickeen bridge. This bridge unites the extremity of the promontory of Mucruss with Brickeen island ; it consists of one gothic arch, whose altitude is seventeen feet, and span twenty-seven, and was built by the late Colonel Herbert. The most desirable entrance is by the Glena side of Dinis island, which, though more circuitous to navigate, is much the most beautiful, and of the most novel character. The passage is like a river, enclosed by rich and verdant banks, crowned with the most luxuriant groves of various trees, close to the water's edge : it is a sylvan and aquatic scene of the most delicate and pleasing character, without any mixture whatever of the sublime or grand, but confined to the beautiful solely, and of such beauty as the eye loves to dwell upon.

    After being enclosed for some short time in this enchanting and retired scene, Turk Lake suddenly appears, through a narrow vista, and produces a very singular effect by the extreme abruptness with which the view of the expanse of water breaks in upon you. The visiter should land, however, on the banks of the wooded canal, upon Dini.s island, and wander through the lawns and proves of flowing arbutus, which enrich and beautify this little Edrn. The taste of the colonel was too chaste, and his judgment too discerning, to neglect this happy little spot, so much adorned by nature ; and, having cut walks through the

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 37

22. Killarney town poorly sited relative to the Lake

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    Killarney town is described as being in the worst possible situation, with the backs of houses turned towards the Lake and the view excluded by Lord Kenmare's woods. The town lacks fresh water except for a few wells, despite rivers on every side, and a mile of uninteresting road must be traversed to reach Ross Bay.

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    The greatest inconvenience, however, chargeable upon Killarney, is the distance of the town from the Lake. It was not possible to have fixed, in all the neighbourhood, upon a worse situation for the site of a village ; the backs of the houses are turned towards the Lake, the view of which is totally excluded by Lord Kenraare's woods, and but for the supply yielded by a few wells, there would not be any fresh water in the village, although there are rivers at a short distance on every side. It is very unpleasant to have a mile of uninteresting road to pass every morning before reaching Ross bay ; but this is actual pleasure compared with the annoyance of having the same road to return at night, after the fatigue of ten or twelve hours exercise, and, probably, drenched by the breakers, if the weather should be stormy. Here, again, the English lakes have the advantage in accommodation for travellers, which he who has visited Coniston Head, the Ferry House, or Lowood upon Windermere, will acknowledge.

    LOWER LAKE—ROSS ISLAND,

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 24

23. Mangerton formerly thought higher than Carrauntoohil

    near Mangerton Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Mangerton was formerly considered the higher mountain in the Killarney vicinity, but Mr. Nimmo's measurements established it at only 2,550 feet, well below Carrauntoohil's 3,410 feet. The mountain overlooks Lough Leane and the Killarney lakes district.

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    The youthful traveller seldom quits the scene of inquiry without ascending the highest mountain and penetrating the deepest glen. In all mountainous districts there is always one peak famed for its extraordinary elevation and difficulty of access. In the vicinity of Lough Lein, Carran Tual is the cloud-capped summit, marked out as the highest. Mangerton was formerly considered higher, but the late measurements of Mr. Nimmo have shown Carran Tual to be three thousand, four hundred and ten feet above the level of the sea, while Mangerton is only two thousand, five hundred and fifty.

    Having taken horse at Killarney, pursue the Aghadoe road, and so pass over the Laune bridge, by Dunloe gate ; then, turning to the right, at the distance of a mile, is a little village, at the very foot of the Reeks. Here a guide, who understands the shortest routes up the hill, and is, consequently, better qualified than any person from Killarney, may be had for a trifling sum. Heing properly equipped for an arduous and laborious pedestrian excursion, direct your course towards

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 59

24. Mangerton Mountain height corrected

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry

    Mangerton was long considered the highest mountain in Ireland at 2,470 feet, but Mr. Nimmo's measurement corrected this to 2,550 feet. Carran Tual was found to be higher at 3,410 feet.

    Read the passage

    have been detected. It is now ascertained by the measurement of Mr. Nimmo, that the height of Mangerton is 2,550 feet, while that of Carran Tual is 3,410.

    Near the village a guide, provided with a horn, is generally in attendance, and conducts you by the easiest path towards the summit. Here, however, the tourist is subject to great annoyance, arising from the number of men and boys, who run on every side of him, without uttering a syllable, but merely keeping up with his horse. Entreaties to desist from this undertaking, as one would be sufficient to point the way and tell the names of distant objects, are of no avail ; one says, " No gentleman ever prevented him from ascending the mountain ;" a second avers, " That he is the Man of the Mountain ;" and a third declares his resolution of not quitting the party till their return to the village : it is useless to resist, and the visiter has often six or eight guides forced on him, whatever may be his inclination.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 52

25. Ross Island woods cut down and regenerated

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry · 1803

    The woods on Ross Island were cut down in 1803 but had sprung up again sufficiently to delight admirers of nature. The island contained great varieties of trees and plants including oaks, yews, spleenwort, and the true-love or one-berry used by peasantry as a specific for malignant fevers.

    Read the passage

    The Island of Ross is of considerable extent, and though the woods were cut down in 1803, they have sprung up again sufficiently high to upbraid their destroyer and delight the admirer of the beauties of nature. On Ross island are to be found great varieties of trees and plants, oaks, yews, &c. Amongst the plants are the spleenwort, the true-love, or one berry, which the peasantry make use of as an excellent specific in malignant fevers ; the tutsan, or park leaves, which is supposed to possess healing powers: the raspberry-tree ; the common mother-thyme ; th»- service-tree, &c.

    Here lead and copper arc to be had in great abundance; and though the working of the mint** is discontinued, yet it is rather for want of capital in the proprietors, than from a deficiency of ore.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 26

26. Visiting Muckross Abbey by prior permission

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    Tourists are advised to send a messenger to Mucruss House or Cahernane the evening before to request permission to visit the Abbey of Mucruss.

    Read the passage

    Having despatched a messenger, the preceding evening, to Mucruss House, or Cahernane, with a note requesting permission to visit the Abbey, and having obtained this favour, leave the inn at five in the morning, mounted on a strong shelty, attended by a guide-boy and a bugleman : cross the Flesk River, pass Cahernane, Castle-Lough, and Mucruss Demesnes, and leaving the village of Cloghereen behind, ride up the front of Mangerton Mountain : try the effect of the bugle at the Punch-bowl; walk round the edge of the Bowl, along the summit of the ridge dividing the Devil's Punch-bowl from Gleanna Capull,* and let the bugleman descend a short distance down the steep side of the glen, while the tourist remains on the top. The effect of the bugle in this situation is very extraordinary. [See Mangerton.]

    Let the guides conduct the shelties to the foot of the mountain, and there await the party, who will find it more practicable to walk than ride down from the Punch-bowl. Having again reached the village of Cloghereen, visit the Abbey of Mucruss and the peninsula, and walk along the shore to Castle-Lough Bay. Take notice of the rock called O'Donohoe's Horse. Have the boat

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 63

27. Pass of Cooleagh between Macroom and Bantry

    Cooleagh · townland · Tipperary

    A deep mountain chasm excavated by nature through which an excellent road was built within the last ten years, connecting Macroom and Bantry. The pass features ivy-clad cliffs, old holly, yew trees, arbutus, and a natural castellated rock formation resembling a keep.

    Read the passage

    "This deep and extraordinary chasm, which nature has excavated through these mountains, and which, within these last ten years, has been

    c L>

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 12

28. Bere Island's wild cliffs shelter Bantry Bay

    near Bear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    Bear Island (Bere Island) lifts rude, wild cliffs against south-western storms at the entrance to Bantry Bay harbour. The island is about six miles long and sits one mile from the western shore, forming Berehaven harbour between the island and the mainland town of Berehaven.

    Read the passage

    Near the entrance of the harbour, Bear Island lifts its rude, wild cliffs against the south-western storms, affording a shelter, which is not likely to be undervalued by any one who has witnessed the inconceivable fury and mountain volume with which the waves of the Atlantic rush against these rocky barriers. This island is about six miles long, and one in distance from the western shore, forming an interval which is called Beerhaven harbour, on the mainland side of which is the little town of Beerhaven. Beerhaven was formerly defended by a strong castle. It was a place of no small importance in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the Irish chiefs maintained a frequent intercourse with Spain. The other islands which lie near the town are, Chapel, Horse, Hog, and Rabbit Islands.

    In exploring this Bay, the informed tourist will find its interest heightened by many traditionary and historical recollections. He will hear or rerollect, with a smile, the antiquarian dreams of the venerable visionary Keating, according to whom

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 9

29. Dingle Bay first viewed from Lishbaun mountain

    near Dingle Bay · bay · Kerry

    During the ascent of Carrauntoohil, the first view of Dingle Bay is obtained from Lishbaun mountain, after crossing the Gaddah river. The route passes Mr. Blennerhassett's shooting lodge on the banks of that river before entering Hag's Glen.

    Read the passage

    The mountain bridle-road leads from the village, over a low range of hills, to Mr. Blennerhasset's shooting lodge, on the banks of the river Giddah, a considerable mountain torrent, flowing into the Laune. On Lishbaun mountain is the first view of Dingle bay ; and, crossing the Gaddah river, and passing a gradually sloping Arale of moss and rock, (very fatiguing to the pedestrian whose feet are not protected by very strong shoes,) the Hags Glen is entered. To the right a lofty green mountain, called Konnock a Brianihn, i. e. the hill of the sheep-raddle, darkens the valley, and opposite is the beetling brow of the lower reeks, perfectly inaccessible to all but the wild birds which nestle in their fronts.

    The Hag's Tooth is a small conical projection from the mountain, resembling the flying buttress of some mouldering edifice. Around and above are seen small black lakes, whose tints are borrowed from the impending crags, called the Devil's Lough and the Hag's Lough, &c. the latter having a small island in the centre. While

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 59

30. Bugle echo tradition at Ross Castle from the lake

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Tourists approaching Ross Castle by boat were directed to have the bugle sounded toward the castle while the boatmen rested on their oars. The castle served as a landing point to complete the day's tour.

    Read the passage

    near Ross Castle, let the boatmen rest upon their oars, while the bugle sounds a few interrupted notes, directing the mouth of the instrument towards the castle. Landing at Ross Castle, return by means of sheltie's to the inn, and so complete the second day's tour.

    At an early hour on the morning of the third day, but remembering to take a hearty breakfast first, mount your shelty, and ride to Aghadoe Church. See the Round Tower, the Round Castle, called by the peasantry the Pulpit, and the stone bearing an Ogham inscription. Returning to the high road, pursue the road to Laune or Heaufort bridge, and, crossing the river, visit the Castle of Dunloe. After a short stay in the demesne, keep the mountain road to the Gap, and proceed, by slow and measured steps, through tin- Pass to the farther end in the vale of Conum- Dulf. The bugle should be kept in unceasing employment all through the Pass, but particularly under the castellated cliff hanging over the pool in which the guide asserts there is an enormous serpent.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 66

31. Carrauntoohil height established at 3,410 feet

    near Carrauntoohil · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Through improved methods of measuring mountain heights, Mr. Nimmo established that Carran Tual stands at 3,410 feet, surpassing Mangerton and correcting earlier errors in old maps and surveys.

    Read the passage

    have been detected. It is now ascertained by the measurement of Mr. Nimmo, that the height of Mangerton is 2,550 feet, while that of Carran Tual is 3,410.

    Near the village a guide, provided with a horn, is generally in attendance, and conducts you by the easiest path towards the summit. Here, however, the tourist is subject to great annoyance, arising from the number of men and boys, who run on every side of him, without uttering a syllable, but merely keeping up with his horse. Entreaties to desist from this undertaking, as one would be sufficient to point the way and tell the names of distant objects, are of no avail ; one says, " No gentleman ever prevented him from ascending the mountain ;" a second avers, " That he is the Man of the Mountain ;" and a third declares his resolution of not quitting the party till their return to the village : it is useless to resist, and the visiter has often six or eight guides forced on him, whatever may be his inclination.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 52

32. Cottage and waterfall at Derry-Cunnihy

    Derrycunihy · townland · Kerry

    Visitors disembarking at Coffin Point can visit the cottage and waterfall of Derry-Cunnihy on the southern shore of the Upper Lake.

    Read the passage

    don's boat-house to convey the party to Ronan's Isle. Dine in the cottage, and row about amongst the islands. Steer for Coffin Point, and, entering the little sheltered haven, disembark, and visit the cottage and waterfall of Derry-Cunnihy. Embarking again, and coasting the southern shore, visit the waterfall and Glen of Esknamucky. Returning to the boat, and doubling the headland, make your exit from the Upper Lake by Coleman's Leap. Sailing down the passage, or river, stop nearly opposite the Eagle's Nest, and land for a few minutes to hear the extraordinary echoes produced by the firing of a small cannon, which is carried in the boat for this purpose.

    Sailing with the current, by the Cannon Rock, Man-of-War Rock, &c., the next adventure is the shooting of old Weir bridge. The current is here very rapid ; and the little boat is hurried swiftly by O'Sullivan's Punch-bowl, and Dinis Island, into Glena Bay. Here again the effect of the bugle is delightful. Coasting along Glena Mountain, pass between Glena Point and Darby's Garden, and, crossing the Lower Lake to Ross Island, land at the usual place of disembarkation in Ross Bay. So ends the second day.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 64

33. Kilcrea Castle and Abbey ruins

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    Within a short distance of Ballincollig stand the Castle and Abbey of Kilcrea. The castle is in a ruinous condition, but the abbey and steeple remain sufficiently intact, with barbicans, platform, and fosse still visible enough to gratify curiosity.

    Read the passage

    Within a short distance of Ballincollig, stand the Castle and Abbey of Kilcrea; the former is in a ruinous condition, but the abbey and steeple are still sufficiently perfect to gratify curiosity, the barbicans, platform, and fosse, still remaining. The monastery was founded in the year 145G, un-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 3

34. Lord Brandon's cottage at Gearhameen

    Gearhameen · townland · Kerry

    About four miles from the entrance of the Gap of Dunloe, the road opens into the vale of Coom Duff and thence to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. The road to his lordship's cottage was in a rude, unfinished state, though improvements were daily making at the time of writing.

    Read the passage

    From the entrance of the Gap to the farther end, opening into the vale of Comme Duff, thence to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon, is about four miles ; the road from the outlet of the Gap to his lordship's cottage is in a rude, unfinished state, but improvements are daily making. Here a long-extended valley is opened to the view ; at the western extremity of which is a very considerable lough, called the Red Trout Lake. Nearly opposite the termination of the Gap is a beautiful waterfall, of considerable height, and always plentifully supplied ; the waters of this fall flow into a succession of small lakes, occupying the whole length of the valley. In some are small islands bearing shrubs upon their surface, and others are decorated with water lilies. A visit to this valley would occupy only one day, and would richly compensate the visiter. The overflow of the three lakes of Comme Duff discharges itself into the upper lake at Cariguline.

    115

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 59

35. Reginald's Tower compared to Aghadoe round castle

    Waterford · city · Waterford

    Reginald's Tower in Waterford is cited as one of only two other round castles in Ireland nearly matching the height and diameter of the round castle at Aghadoe. The text notes that round castles are rather uncommon in Ireland.

    Read the passage

    structed within the wall. Round castles are rather uncommon in Ireland ; there are two others, howfiver, nearly of the same height and diameter as this of Aghadoe, existing, the one at Waterford, called " Reginald's Tower," the other in the county of Tipperary, called " Nenagh Round." Dolbadern Castle, in the vale of Llanberris, in North Wales, is extremely like this at Aghadoe, which must have been a place of defence, as appears from the fosse and mound encompassing it.

    In the Collectanea de Rebus Hibernicis, may be seen a plate of a stone in the walls of Aghadoe Cathedral, on which is cut an inscription in the Ogham character. This mysterious hieroglyphical letter, whose powers are now totally lost, was used by the ancient Irish or Indo -Scythians. The inscriptions are merely horizontal, or perpendicular lines, intersected at right angles by a number of parallel lines, or darts, of unequal lengths. The learned Mr. Pelham supplied General Vallancey with many instances of such inscriptions in the county of Kerry, which have been published in the sixth volume of the Collectanea.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 57

36. Rev. Mr. Hyde's cottage at Derrycunehy

    Derrycunihy · townland · Kerry

    In a glen to the west of Derrycunehy mountain is a pretty cottage and demesne belonging to the Rev. Mr. Hyde, situated near a beautiful waterfall named after the mountain. The proprietor politely permits strangers to approach and walk through the grounds, though visitors are cautioned not to disturb his domestic retirement.

    Read the passage

    To the south, Cromiglaun mountain rises from the very water, behind which is Esknamncky, from which runs a considerable stream, falling into the Lake, in a bay parallel to the passage between the Lakes, and possessing a beautiful fall, called Esknamucky Cascade. To the west of Cromiglaun, or the Drooping mountain, is Derrycunehy ; in a glen to the west of which is a pretty little cottage and demesne, belonging to the Kev. Mr. Hyde, in the vicinity of the beautiful fall called after the mountain itself. Mr. Hyde's cottage is a private residence ; therefore, although the politeness of the proprietor permits the approach of strangers to his cottage, they should not expect or wish for permission to disturb this gentleman's domestic retirement. The cockswain should inform his party, that this cottage is not intended as a banquetting room, and that permission to walk through these grounds is a special favour. To the west of Derrycunehy mountain, and separated by the river Kavoye, is Durrydimna mountain, one of whose sides is clothed with a

    c2

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 42

37. Ross Castle, Inisfallen and Ross Island circuit

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    The final leg of the lake tour took visitors from Castle Lough Bay around Ross Island to Inisfallen, then to Ross Castle, where guide-boys had conveyance ready to carry travellers to Killarney. Ross Castle served as the terminus of the circuit.

    Read the passage

    Mucruss, in Castle Lough Bay ; ascend Mangerton, still accompanied by the bugle, and arriving at the Devil's Punch Bowl, try its extraordinary effects. The Glen of the Horse cannot be visited upon this route. Descending to the village of Cloghereen, visit Mucruss abbey, and, passing on to the shores, embark once more upon the lake in Castle Lough Bay : sail round Ross Island to Inisfallen, thence to Ross Castle, where the guide-boys generally have a mode of conveyance ready to carry the traveller to Killarney. In this route, many interesting objects are necessarily neglected, and others but imperfectly seen, at the same time that a very extensive and delightful tour has been accomplished in a wonderfully short space of time. The personal fatigue of this journey is great, and the arrangements require to be made with judgment. A six-oared boat should be employed, also excellent ponies, and active boys to rendezvous at the appointed places.

    Two Days' Tour.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 62

38. Route from Killarney via Aghadoe and Laune Bridge

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    The ascent of Carrauntoohil begins by taking horse at Killarney, pursuing the Aghadoe road, crossing the Laune bridge, and passing through Dunloe gate. A mile beyond, a little village at the foot of the Reeks provides guides familiar with the shortest routes up the mountain.

    Read the passage

    Having taken horse at Killarney, pursue the Aghadoe road, and so pass over the Laune bridge, by Dunloe gate ; then, turning to the right, at the distance of a mile, is a little village, at the very foot of the Reeks. Here a guide, who understands the shortest routes up the hill, and is, consequently, better qualified than any person from Killarney, may be had for a trifling sum. Heing properly equipped for an arduous and laborious pedestrian excursion, direct your course towards

    • i. e. " The inverted reaping hook,1 which the outline of the summit ntrongly ri-spmblfs.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 59

39. Torc Mountain, cottage and waterfall

    near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

    After passing through Dinis Island into Torc Lake, tourists coasted the base of Torc Mountain and visited Torc Cottage and its waterfall, a well-known scenic destination. The waterfall and cottage were key attractions on the Killarney lake tour.

    Read the passage

    swain and boatmen, the night previous, to have a boat, with a supply of provisions, to meet you near Lord Brandon's boat-house. Sail down the river into the Upper Lake, land on Ronan's island, dine and rest in the cottage ; after which, ascend the peak, and view the amphitheatre of hills enclosing the lake. After taking refreshment, sail through the archipelago of the seven islands, and then direct your course towards Derrycunnihy ; visit the waterfall, and Mr. Hyde's cottage ; coast along the base of Cromiglaun mountain. Time will not permit a visit to Esknamucky waterfall and glen. Entering Coleman's Leap, sail down the passage between the Long Range and Newfoundland, until you reach the Eagle's Nest. Here disembark, and take a station which the cockswain will not fail to point out, while the swivel is discharged by the boatmen from the most advantageous situation for the production of echoes. Embarking again, continue your course with the stream, remembering to employ the bugle frequently along the passage between the lakes. The next object of surprise is the old Weir bridge : here the unpleasant ceremony of shooting the bridge is to be submitted to. Arrived at Dinis Island, pass into Turk Lake, coast the base of Turk mountain, and visit Turk cottage and waterfall ; there leave the boat, directing the cockswain to meet you again below the house of

    122 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 62

40. Nenagh Round compared to Aghadoe round castle

    Nenagh · town · Tipperary

    A round castle in County Tipperary known as Nenagh Round is cited alongside Reginald's Tower in Waterford as one of the few round castles in Ireland comparable in height and diameter to the round castle at Aghadoe.

    Read the passage

    structed within the wall. Round castles are rather uncommon in Ireland ; there are two others, howfiver, nearly of the same height and diameter as this of Aghadoe, existing, the one at Waterford, called " Reginald's Tower," the other in the county of Tipperary, called " Nenagh Round." Dolbadern Castle, in the vale of Llanberris, in North Wales, is extremely like this at Aghadoe, which must have been a place of defence, as appears from the fosse and mound encompassing it.

    In the Collectanea de Rebus Hibernicis, may be seen a plate of a stone in the walls of Aghadoe Cathedral, on which is cut an inscription in the Ogham character. This mysterious hieroglyphical letter, whose powers are now totally lost, was used by the ancient Irish or Indo -Scythians. The inscriptions are merely horizontal, or perpendicular lines, intersected at right angles by a number of parallel lines, or darts, of unequal lengths. The learned Mr. Pelham supplied General Vallancey with many instances of such inscriptions in the county of Kerry, which have been published in the sixth volume of the Collectanea.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 57

41. Wild hop plant unique to Mucruss Abbey

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    The variety of trees and plants around the abbey walls is greater than any other spot in the neighbourhood. The wild hop is found only at this location among limes, elms, ash, sycamore and horse-chestnut.

    Read the passage

    The variety of trees and plants around the walls of the Abbey, is probably greater than in any other spot in the neighbourhood ; limes, elms, ash, sycamore, horse-chesnut, &c. besides one plant, the wild hop, which is met with only here. There is one more circumstance connected with this Abbey, which, though not more peculiar to it than to other favourite burying places in Ireland, yet, from the frequency of its occurrence here, and the scene where it may be witnessed, is interesting to a stranger, and is quite characteristic of the Irish nation, — I mean the "Irish Cry."

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

42. Bugle echoes in the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    Tourists riding through the pass of the Gap of Dunloe are advised to keep the bugle constantly employed to enjoy the acoustic effects.

    Read the passage

    At an early hour the second day, after breakfast, take shelties, and ride to Aghadoe; enjoy the view of the Lower Lake from the church-yard, and see the ruins of a round tower and castle. Proceed along the road at the fo»t of the hill, to the bridge over the Laune; cross the bridge, and visit Dunloe Castle : this should occupy but a short space. Proceed to the Gap of Dunloe ; ride through the pass, remembering to keep the bugle constantly employed. Arriving at the termination of the pass, keep the left pathway down the valley of Cointne Duff to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Seek permission to ascend the tower in his Lordship's garden. The ponies should be sent back to Killarney with the runners, from the termination of the pass.

    The boat should be in waiting at Lord Bran-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 64

43. Devil's Island, a rock mass in Turk Lake

    Devil's Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    Devil's Island is a mass of rock of considerable elevation in Turk Lake, with shrubs on its summit. It appears to have been thrown off from the Mucross shore by some convulsive shock of nature.

    Read the passage

    There is a bridle road leading from Turk cottage to Mucruss house and abbey, which is not very interesting, being overhung by the bleak brow of Mangerton ; and visiters have an infinite advantage by viewing the surrounding scenery from the lake. Rowing round the eastern extremity, there is an uninterrupted prospect of the whole of Turk Lake, which is about two miles long, and one broad ; then, sailing by a little embayment, in the very centre of which is a small island, the course is along the rugged shores of Mucruss peninsula. Devil's island and bay particularly demand notice. The island is a mass of rock, of considerable elevation, having some shrubs upon its summit, and appears to have been thrown off from the shore of Mucruss by some convulsive shock of nature.

    Coasting along the northern shore of Turk Lake, pass Brickeen bridge, and return to the cottage on Dinis island. A walk round this little richly wooded spot will amply compensate the

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 38

44. Drumaouk hill viewpoint in Mucruss Demesne

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    A walk through the woods from the Abbey leads to the summit of a hill called Drumaouk, from which the house of Mucruss is seen with its verdant lawn enclosed by woodland fringing the lake. Sir H. Hoare called the hill O Horke.

    Read the passage

    The demesne includes a large tract of land on the borders of the Lower, and Mucruss Lakes, extending from Castle Lough to the foot of Turk, together with the Peninsula of Mucruss, which separates these Lakes. After visiting the Abbey, a pleasing walk through the woods leads to the summit of a hill called " Drumaouk ;"f from this rising ground is seen the house of Mucruss, with its verdant lawn enclosed by a wood which fringes the Lake, and continues along the entire peninsula to the point of Cammillan, a distance of nearly three miles. On the opposite side of the Lake, Toniics and Glena rise from the water with incredible magnificence, and possess a soft and gentle outline, while the Kagle's Nest exhibits a bold, broken, and savage aspect. Here it is, then, that the flat, swampy grounds about Killarncy are enabled to contribute to the beauty of the scenery,

    • For a more minute account of this ancient family, sec Smith's Kerry, page &), et *rif.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 51

45. Dunloe Castle, seat of Major Mahony

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry

    Dunloe Castle, the seat of Major Mahony, lies just beyond the bridge over the Laune river. The principal attraction for hurried travellers is the view from its battlements before entering the Gap of Dunloe.

    Read the passage

    Taking horses at, Killarney, and being attended by a buglernan, also mounted, start at five o'clock in the morning for Dunloe Gap ; two miles and a half from Killarney, turn up a narrow road, to the light, and visit the ruined tower and cathedral of Aghadoe. Arriving at the bridge over the Laune river, cross and ride a few hundred yards farther to the gate of the demesne of Dunloe castle ; here there is not much to detain the traveller who is in haste, except the view from the battlements. Leaving Dunloe castle, the seat of Major Mahony, about three quarters of a mile farther, enter the Gap of Dunloe. Here let the bugle be kept in constant employment. Halt in the narrowest part of the rocky defile, and observe the extraordinary effects of the bugle ; ride through the pass, and reach the valley of Comme Duff: here it will be necessary to send back the ponies, having desired guide-boys from Killarney, the night before, to meet you at that place for the purpose. The remaining part of the vale must be traversed on foot as far as Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Here ask permission to ascend the tower in the garden, from the top of which is a very commanding prospect. Direct your cock-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 61

46. Eagle's Nest, a pyramidal crag in the lake passage

    Eagle's Nest · island or archipelago · Donegal

    The Eagle's Nest is a celebrated rock placed in a hanging crag near the summit of an almost perpendicular pyramidal rock, twelve or thirteen hundred feet high. Though it appears diminished from a distance by adjacent mountains, it is a frequent subject for painters and poets.

    Read the passage

    The Eagle's Nest is the next important object in the passage. It is placed in a hanging crag, near the summit of an almost perpendicular rock, of a pyramidal form, and twelve or thirteen hundred feet in height. When viewed from a distance, this much celebrated rock, so frequently the subject of the painter and the poet, appears quite contemptible, from the superior height of the adjacent mountains ; but the approach to its

    ft

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 39

47. Echo and salmon fishery in Glena Bay

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    Glena bay possesses a pleasing echo from the impending mountain, best enjoyed by stationing a bugleman in one boat and rowing away. The bay also has an excellent fishery of salmon, trout, and perch, with the salmon fishery let on condition that Killarney market be supplied at two pence per pound.

    Read the passage

    In the bay of Glena will be found a most pleasing echo, from the impending mountain>, which is much increased in strength and distinctness of articulation by the auditor being stationed at a considerable interval from the origin of the sound. This may be readily accomplished, and to the best possible advantage, by a party, at-

    K -2

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 34

48. Glena Cottage at the base of Glena mountain

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    Glena Cottage is situated at the base of the mountain of that name, sheltered by a hanging wood of oak, ash, and holly, close to the margin of the lake. Though capable of being one of the most enchanting cottages in the universe, it was in a state of extreme neglect at the time of writing.

    Read the passage

    In the bay of Glena is an excellent fishery of salmon, trout, and perch, but there are no pike in the Lake. Parties intending to dine at Glena cottage are tolerably secure of being provided with a salmon, taken for the occasion, and drest in a very peculiar manner. The salmon fishery is let for an annual sum, on condition that the persons taking it supply the market of Killarney at the rate of two pence per pound. The cottage of Glena is situated at the base of the mountain of that name, sheltered by a hanging wood of oak, ash, holly, &c. and close to the margin of the lake. The most romantic disposition of mind cannot conceive, nor the most picturesque fancy sketch, a scene more beautiful, more animating, or more captivating ; the cottage in the wood, at a little distance, produces ideas of comfort, neatness, beauty, and happiness, but, upon a nearer approach, the visiter must prepare to see, in a state of extreme neglect, a residence capable of being made one of the most enchanting cottages in the universe. The peasant who resides here has a comfortable little hut behind the cottage, and receives every stranger with courtesy and

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 34

49. Lough Leane and the Lake of Desmond

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The lake surrounding Inisfallen was called both Lough Lein and the Lake of Desmond. The latter name derived from the Earls of Desmond, once petty princes in Kerry whose greatness had long since passed.

    Read the passage

    Mac-Nessan, i. e. the island of the sons of Nessan, from Nessan, the father of Dichull. The name Inis- Nessan has been rejected for its present very appropriate designation, Inisfallen, the beautiful or healthy island, or Inisfaithlen, the island in the beautiful lake ; this lake is called by Colgan, Lough Lein, and the Lake of Desmond, indiscriminately. The latter name was borrowed from the Earls of Desmond, once petty princes in Kerry, but whose greatness has long since gone

    by- *

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 30

50. Nunnery and school near Cork mail road, Killarney

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    A nunnery is located in the street by which the Cork mail enters Killarney, along with a very numerous school of poor children.

    Read the passage

    The Roman Catholic chapel stands in Newstreet, and beside it is the residence of the titular bishop. Shaded by a screen of arbutus, laurels, and jessamines, trained against the chapel wall, is a very attractive inscription, upon a beautifully designed, and well executed monument. A marble urn, partly concealed by a funeral pall, rests upon a sarcophagus, on the pannel of which is a beautiful and pathetic epitaph, on a Roman Catholic bishop of Kerry, written by a clergyman of the Established Church. There is a nunnery also in this street, and a very numerous school of poor children in that by which the Cork mail enters.

    The hall of Ken mare house is flagged with very beautiful marble, raised on the lands of Cahernane, and at either end are busts of his Grace the Duke of Wellington, and Field Marshal Blucher. The ball room is the largest apartment in the house ; the walls are hung with tapestry of rather inferior merit to that at Kilkenny castle, or Tyrone house, in Dublin ; in this room is a table made of a single plank of yew, more than three feet broad. Over the chimney piece is an admirable painting of Apollo crowning Handel. On the principal staircase stands an admirable bust of the late Henry Grattan, by Turnerelli, and another of George II. In the attic story is a private chapel for the celebration of divine service, ac-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 23

51. Ross Castle built by O'Donoghoe-Ross, description of ruins

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Ross Castle was built by the family of O'Donoghoe-Ross, so called to distinguish them from O'Donoghoe-More. The castle is now an important ruin standing upon a rock, consisting of a lofty square building with embattled parapets, formerly enclosed by a curtain wall with round flankers at each corner.

    Read the passage

    The castle, which was built by the family of O'Donoghoe-Ross,* is now an important ruin, standing upon a rock : it consists of a lofty, square building, with embattled parapets, formerly enclosed by a curtain wall, having round flankers at each corner, the ruins of which are yet visible. The interior possesses some extremely well proportioned apartments; and from the battlements may be had a most extensive panoramic view of

    * So called to distinguish them from that of O'Donoghoe-More.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 25

52. Ross Castle garrisoned in the Williamite War

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1690

    A garrison was kept at Ross Castle in 1690 during the wars between William and James. A small building was erected against one of the side walls for an officer and company of men, and a governor was maintained on the establishment.

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    Mangerton, Turk, Glena, and all the surrounding scenery. A small building has been erected against one of the side walls of the castle, for the accommodation of an officer and a company of men, which does not harmonize very well with the general character of the scene, and is particularly hurtful to the eye, in looking from Inisfallen towards Mangerton. There is a governor also on the establishment of Ross castle ; and a garrison was kept here in 1690, in the wars between William and James. (See Articles of Limerick.)

    The Island of Ross is of considerable extent, and though the woods were cut down in 1803, they have sprung up again sufficiently high to upbraid their destroyer and delight the admirer of the beauties of nature. On Ross island are to be found great varieties of trees and plants, oaks, yews, &c. Amongst the plants are the spleenwort, the true-love, or one berry, which the peasantry make use of as an excellent specific in malignant fevers ; the tutsan, or park leaves, which is supposed to possess healing powers: the raspberry-tree ; the common mother-thyme ; th»- service-tree, &c.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 26

53. Ruins of round tower and castle at Aghadoe

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    The tourist is directed to Aghadoe to enjoy the view of the Lower Lake from the church-yard and to see the ruins of a round tower and castle.

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    At an early hour the second day, after breakfast, take shelties, and ride to Aghadoe; enjoy the view of the Lower Lake from the church-yard, and see the ruins of a round tower and castle. Proceed along the road at the fo»t of the hill, to the bridge over the Laune; cross the bridge, and visit Dunloe Castle : this should occupy but a short space. Proceed to the Gap of Dunloe ; ride through the pass, remembering to keep the bugle constantly employed. Arriving at the termination of the pass, keep the left pathway down the valley of Cointne Duff to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Seek permission to ascend the tower in his Lordship's garden. The ponies should be sent back to Killarney with the runners, from the termination of the pass.

    The boat should be in waiting at Lord Bran-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 64

54. Surprising echo at Ross Castle

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Returning to Ross Castle along the shores near Lord Kenmare's boat-house, visitors can experience a delightful and surprising echo from the castle.

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    Returning to Ross Castle, along the shores of the island, at Lord Kenmare's boat-house, a delightful and surprising echo will be found from the castle. Arrived at the quay beneath the castle, ponies from the inn are generally in readiness to convey the visiters to Killarney. So ends the first day.

    At an early hour the second day, after breakfast, take shelties, and ride to Aghadoe; enjoy the view of the Lower Lake from the church-yard, and see the ruins of a round tower and castle. Proceed along the road at the fo»t of the hill, to the bridge over the Laune; cross the bridge, and visit Dunloe Castle : this should occupy but a short space. Proceed to the Gap of Dunloe ; ride through the pass, remembering to keep the bugle constantly employed. Arriving at the termination of the pass, keep the left pathway down the valley of Cointne Duff to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Seek permission to ascend the tower in his Lordship's garden. The ponies should be sent back to Killarney with the runners, from the termination of the pass.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 64

55. View from the heights of Knuc-na-fiach

    Knocknaveagh · townland · Cavan

    The eastern height of Knuc-na-fiach, a hill directly over the town, offers a prime vantage point where tourists can simultaneously see both Dunmanus and Bantry bays.

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    Before the tourist is introduced to the nearer and more detailed view of this magnificent bay, he will most probably desire to observe its splendid effect as a feature of the surrounding scenery. There are for this purpose many favourable sites. One of the best is on the eastern height of Knucna-fiach,* which hangs immediately over the town, from which, at the same moment, may be seen the two bays of Dunmanus and Bantry. One of the best southern views is from a hill directly before Ilindonegan-house. The modern fort behind Gurtenroe-house affords the best central prospect of the bay. Of the general effect of such views, no adequate notion can be conveyed by description : there are, nevertheless, few tourists who may not feel the interest of the scene to be heightened by the perusal of the following masterly sketch.

    " The road from Dunmanus Bay brings you over another parallel mountain-ridge ; and after

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

56. Cataract of Adrigoll

    Adrigole · townland · Cork

    The cataract of Adrigoll falls in a perpendicular column of 800 feet down the side of Hungry Mountain, located near the white Sugar-loaf mountain.

    Read the passage

    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the cataract of Adrigoll falls down the side of Hungry Mountain. A traveller once stood on the southern ridge of mountain on a fine clear March day and looked across. To the east, Mangerton rose in dark and lofty massiveness. To the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the clouds, leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes. Nearer still, to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rose like an embattled wall, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll in a perpendicular column of 800 feet. Nearer again, facing north, the Sugar-loaf mountain, almost as white in its quartzose formation as crystallized sugar. Directly below lay the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy, and on that placid water were studded isles.

57. Mucruss Abbey near Cloghereen

    Muckross Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Kerry

    Descending to the village of Cloghereen, tourists were directed to visit Mucruss Abbey before passing on to the shores to embark at Castle Lough Bay. The abbey was a key antiquity on the Killarney tour route.

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    Mucruss, in Castle Lough Bay ; ascend Mangerton, still accompanied by the bugle, and arriving at the Devil's Punch Bowl, try its extraordinary effects. The Glen of the Horse cannot be visited upon this route. Descending to the village of Cloghereen, visit Mucruss abbey, and, passing on to the shores, embark once more upon the lake in Castle Lough Bay : sail round Ross Island to Inisfallen, thence to Ross Castle, where the guide-boys generally have a mode of conveyance ready to carry the traveller to Killarney. In this route, many interesting objects are necessarily neglected, and others but imperfectly seen, at the same time that a very extensive and delightful tour has been accomplished in a wonderfully short space of time. The personal fatigue of this journey is great, and the arrangements require to be made with judgment. A six-oared boat should be employed, also excellent ponies, and active boys to rendezvous at the appointed places.

    Two Days' Tour.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 62

58. O'Sullivan family, princes of Dunkerron barony

    Dunkerron · townland · Kerry

    The cascade is named after the O'Sullivan family, who were proprietors of the barony of Dunkerron, formerly called O'Sullivan's Country. The family were styled princes by the Irish.

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    The appellation of " O' Sullivan" is bestowed upon this fall, from an illustrious family of the name, who were proprietors of the barony of Dunkerron, formerly called O'Sullivan's country, and were styled princes by the Irish.

    Embarking at the rude, unfinished causeway, before mentioned, and coasting along the base of Tomies and Glena, the scene increases in picturesque effect with every effort of the rowers : the woods of Tomies are not so luxuriant as those of (ilfiia, being interspersed with birch, while the oak and arbutus in the woods of Glena enrich the view with colouring of a deeper dye.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 33

59. Bantry as a central stage for southern scenic tours

    Bantry · town · Cork

    Bantry was considered a central staging point from which the many objects of interest in its vicinity could be visited. A new road from Bantry to Glengariff was planned to complete the line to Killarney, offering unrivalled picturesque scenery.

    Read the passage

    beauty, hitherto but partially known. What may hereafter be the precise order of place observed in visiting this district, must be settled by the experience of a few years : at present, we may consider Bantry as a central stage, from which the many objects of interest in its immediate vicinity are to be visited. A new line of road from this to Glengariff, shortly to be commenced, will complete the whole line to Killarney, offering, through the entire, an unrivalled succession of picturesque objects ; and henceforth removing the only defect by which this southern tour has hitherto sustained a disadvantageous comparison with the most splendid scenery in the world ; by making it as extensive as it has been always admitted to be beautiful.

    Meanwhile, the routes at present most convenient are, either by the mail coach from Cork to Bantry, a distance of seventy-two miles (by Skibbereen); or, if he prefer a private vehicle, and a more picturesque and shorter way, he may take the road already described, so far as Macroom. From this point it will not be necessary to accompany him further on his way, as we shall have presently to notice the principal objects which call for a nearer and more detailed observation, and demand the notice of another day.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Bantry, the town the road passes through. This place was seen as a central stage, the point from which the many objects of interest in its immediate vicinity could be visited. A new line of road from here to Glengariff was shortly to be commenced, and it would complete the whole line to Killarney, offering through the entire route an unrivalled succession of picturesque objects. The guide says this would remove the only defect by which the southern tour had sustained a disadvantageous comparison with the most splendid scenery in the world, "by making it as extensive as it has been always admitted to be beautiful." As for how to reach Bantry, the guide gives two options. You could take the mail coach from Cork, a distance of 72 miles by Skibbereen. Or if you prefer a private vehicle and a more picturesque and shorter way, you could take the road as far as Macroom. From that point the guide leaves the traveller to go on alone, saying the principal objects ahead call for nearer and more detailed observation, and demand the notice of another day.

60. Bantry Bay and Glengariff praised for scenery

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

    Bantry Bay is described as an incomparable harbour containing the beautiful gem of Glengariff within its wide and gorgeous ring, surpassing scenery in Wales, England, and Ireland.

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    a tedious ascent, you crown the summit, and at once see the whole panorama of Bantry Bay under your feet ; I challenge the British Empire to show such a harbour, or such fine land and sea scenery. Nothing I have yet seen in Wales, or England, or Ireland, is at all comparable to it ; perhaps Lough Swilly comes near it — but it must yield the palm. It is inferior in climate, mountain outline, and expanse of harbour. Besides, Bantry Bay holds that beautiful gem, Glengariff, within the setting of its wide and gorgeous ring.

    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7