Guide to Killarney and Glengariff, with six engravings

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Dunloe Castle and demesne visited en route to the Gap

   Dunloe Castle · castle · Kerry

   After crossing the river at Laune or Beaufort Bridge, tourists were directed to visit the Castle of Dunloe and its demesne before continuing along the mountain road to the Gap of Dunloe.

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   At an early hour on the morning of the third day, but remembering to take a hearty breakfast first, mount your shelty, and ride to Aghadoe Church. See the Round Tower, the Round Castle, called by the peasantry the Pulpit, and the stone bearing an Ogham inscription. Returning to the high road, pursue the road to Laune or Heaufort bridge, and, crossing the river, visit the Castle of Dunloe. After a short stay in the demesne, keep the mountain road to the Gap, and proceed, by slow and measured steps, through tin- Pass to the farther end in the vale of Conum- Dulf. The bugle should be kept in unceasing employment all through the Pass, but particularly under the castellated cliff hanging over the pool in which the guide asserts there is an enormous serpent.

   Kntering the valley of Comnie Dun", visit the Waterfall, the best supplied cascade in the whole country. See the islands on the Comnie Duff Lakes, and following the stony bed of a little mountain torrent, arrive at Gheratnine, the seat of Lord Brandon. See the cottage and tower, and

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 66

   As the companion tells it

   Dunloe Castle stood in Kerry, reached after crossing the river at Laune or Beaufort Bridge. The guidebook of the day sent tourists on horseback from Aghadoe, where they saw a Round Tower, a Round Castle the peasantry called the Pulpit, and a stone bearing an Ogham inscription. Back on the high road and across the bridge, they were to visit the castle and spend a short stay in its demesne. Then the mountain road led on to the Gap, and travellers were told to proceed by slow and measured steps through the Pass to the farther end, in the vale of Conum-Duff. The bugle was to be kept in unceasing employment all through the Pass, but especially under the castellated cliff hanging over the pool in which the guide asserted there was an enormous serpent. Beyond the Pass lay the valley of Comnie Dun, with its Waterfall, called the best supplied cascade in the whole country, and the islands on the Comnie Duff Lakes.

2. Lord Bantry's mansion and landscaped park

   Bantry · town · Cork

   The fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry sits among trees and wooded hills, with a green, highly dressed lawn sweeping down in easy undulations to the water's edge of Bantry Bay.

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   and islets, one crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a modern battery — here a Martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing palace ;* and to finish the setting of this rich jewel, the trees, woods, hills, and fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry, his green and highly dressed lawn, sweeping down in easy undulations to the very water's edge. I cannot say how much I was struck with this delightful tout ensemble. And certainly, as was exemplified here, any thing that is admirable is made much more so by contrast. I had for miles travelled over a dull and dreary way — bare, desolate, unsatisfactory — rocky elevations, or gloomy moors, crowded with miserable huts, a population evidently and fearfully increasing, amidst difficulties and privations altogether insufficient to check its monstrous progress ; and I had read Malthus's convincing but gloomy book ; and war, pestilence, and famine, ' terribiles visit formte,' rose up in necessary association, as summoned to feast on and make prey in future of this teeming population. It therefore was a pleasant relief, coming down from this district, to rest on the sweet green shores of Bantry Bay, to feast the eye on the wooded hills, with all their herds and deer, of Lord Bantry *s park, hanging as it docs in umbra -

   • Fishing palaces, as they were called, were large establishments on the coast, where they used to cure pilchards.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 8

   As the companion tells it

   As you come through Bantry, the road brings you to where Lord Bantry's fine mansion-house stands among trees and wooded hills. His green and highly dressed lawn sweeps down in easy undulations to the very water's edge of Bantry Bay. The writer who recorded this sight said he could not say how much he was struck with this delightful tout ensemble. He had travelled for miles over a dull and dreary way before reaching it — bare, desolate, rocky elevations and gloomy moors, crowded with miserable huts, a population fearfully increasing amidst difficulties and privations insufficient to check its monstrous progress. He had read Malthus's gloomy book, and war, pestilence, and famine rose up in necessary association, summoned to feast on this teeming population. It was therefore a pleasant relief, coming down from that district, to rest on the sweet green shores of Bantry Bay, to feast the eye on the wooded hills, with all their herds and deer, of Lord Bantry's park, hanging as it does in umbrageous beauty above the water. The bay itself holds islets — one crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a modern battery, here a Martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing palace, as they were called, large establishments on the coast where they used to cure pilchards.

3. The rock called O'Donohoe's Horse

   Castlelough · townland · Kerry

   On the shore towards Castle-Lough Bay, visitors are directed to take notice of a specific rock called O'Donohoe's Horse.

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   Let the guides conduct the shelties to the foot of the mountain, and there await the party, who will find it more practicable to walk than ride down from the Punch-bowl. Having again reached the village of Cloghereen, visit the Abbey of Mucruss and the peninsula, and walk along the shore to Castle-Lough Bay. Take notice of the rock called O'Donohoe's Horse. Have the boat

   • Pronounced Clounu

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 63

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Castlelough, along the shore toward Castle-Lough Bay, there is a rock known as O'Donohoe's Horse. The old guidebooks told visitors walking this way to take notice of it. No more is said of it than that, and nothing tells us why the name was given.

4. Bay of Glena scenery and landscape

   Glena · townland · Kerry

   The bay of Glena is described as illustrating the sublime, the horrible, the picturesque, and the beautiful, with views of the majestic Turk and gloomy Mangerton mountains behind it. The summit of Glena is bare and rugged while the base is clothed in deep unbroken wood almost dipping its foliage in the water.

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   usual course is under the woods of Glena ; perhaps there is scarcely any thing in the sublime, the horrible, the picturesque, and beautiful, that is not illustrated in the bay of Glena ; — the majestic Turk, the gloomy Mangerton, with a continued chain of dark and lofty mountains behind them; then the entrance to Turk Lake, and the channel to the upper, possessing beauty and variety ; with the bay of Glena, sheltered by a lofty hill, possessing the scenic character of both the others. The summit of Glena is bare, naked, barren, wild, and rugged, while the base is clothed with a deep mass of unbroken wood, of rich and varied shades, almost dipping their foliage in the water. On the western shore of Glena bay stands a most singular phenomenon, thus described by Hush, in his Hibernia Curiosa, " I have seen an uak, an ash, an hazel, a birch, and a thorn, so incorporated into the trunk of an old lively holly, that they appeared to grow out of its very body, and to exist by feeding on its vitals." — Hush, 14.5. Holmes, 126.

   In the bay of Glena will be found a most pleasing echo, from the impending mountain>, which is much increased in strength and distinctness of articulation by the auditor being stationed at a considerable interval from the origin of the sound. This may be readily accomplished, and to the best possible advantage, by a party, at-

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 34

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is the bay of Glena. A writer once said there is scarcely anything in the sublime, the horrible, the picturesque, and the beautiful that is not illustrated in this bay. Behind it stand the majestic Turk and the gloomy Mangerton, with a continued chain of dark and lofty mountains behind them. Then the entrance to Turk Lake, and the channel to the upper lake, possessing beauty and variety. The bay of Glena itself is sheltered by a lofty hill and carries the scenic character of both the others. The summit of Glena is bare, naked, barren, wild, and rugged, while the base is clothed with a deep mass of unbroken wood, of rich and varied shades, almost dipping their foliage in the water. On the western shore of the bay stands a most singular phenomenon, described by a writer called Hush in his Hibernia Curiosa: "I have seen an oak, an ash, a hazel, a birch, and a thorn, so incorporated into the trunk of an old lively holly, that they appeared to grow out of its very body, and to exist by feeding on its vitals." In the bay you will also find a pleasing echo from the impending mountain, which grows stronger and more distinct the farther the auditor stands from the origin of the sound.

5. Burial practice permitted at Ardfert abbey

   Ardfert · town · Kerry

   The same abominable burial practice permitted at Mucruss Abbey is also allowed at Ardfert in County Kerry. The author disapproves of the practice, though the specific custom is described in the surrounding context.

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   prevented. At Ardfert and Lislaghtin, in this county, the same abominable practice is also permitted.

   Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, and was a long narrow room, capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as that of his predecessor; for after a lapse of two years, he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry assemble in great numbers, to receive the benedictions of their pastors, and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this venerable building. The cemetery on the south of the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, and throw an arch over, which permit* the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

   As the companion tells it

   Ardfert in County Kerry is a town the road passes through, and its abbey has a story worth hearing. The same burial practice the author calls abominable, permitted at Mucruss, is also allowed here at Ardfert, and at Lislaghtin in the same county. Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, its floor still perfect but without a roof. There a pilgrim named John Drake lived for the space of 20 years, and withdrew secretly after his long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a fireplace, and it might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, a long narrow room capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere. After two years he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in July, when the peasantry assemble in great numbers to receive the benedictions of their pastors and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls. The cemetery on the south of the abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock and throw an arch over it, which permits the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is fixed.

6. Burial practice permitted at Lislaghtin abbey

   Lislaughtin · townland · Kerry

   The same abominable burial practice permitted at Mucruss Abbey is also allowed at Lislaghtin in County Kerry. The author criticises the allowance of this practice at the ruined abbey site.

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   prevented. At Ardfert and Lislaghtin, in this county, the same abominable practice is also permitted.

   Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, and was a long narrow room, capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as that of his predecessor; for after a lapse of two years, he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry assemble in great numbers, to receive the benedictions of their pastors, and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this venerable building. The cemetery on the south of the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, and throw an arch over, which permit* the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Lislaughtin here, there's a ruined abbey where the same abominable burial practice permitted at Mucruss Abbey is also allowed. Over the cellar is the monks' kitchen, its floor still perfect but with no roof. John Drake, a pilgrim, lived in that kitchen for twenty years before withdrawing secretly after his long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, which still preserves a fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, a long narrow room capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as his predecessor's. After two years he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in July. The peasantry assemble in great numbers to receive the benedictions of their pastors and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls. The cemetery on the south of the abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock and throw an arch over it, which permits the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and afterwards closed by a large block of stone with a ring in it.

7. Devil's Punch Bowl, lake on Mangerton's summit

   Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry

   The Devil's Punch Bowl is a small lake formed in the hollow of the summit of Mangerton Mountain. It supplies the rivulet known as the Devil's Stream, which feeds Turk Cascade.

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   Behind the cottage, at the distance of about a furlong, in a chasm between Turk and Mangerton Mountains, is Turk Cascade, a fall of about sixty feet, which, in rainy seasons, exhibits one continued sheet of foam, from the stage whence it shoots to the natural basin below : it is supplied from a small lake, formed in the hollow of the summit of Mangerton, called the Devil's Punch Bowl, and the rivulet is thence denominated " The Devil's Stream." This cataract, after falling into a deep and gloomy reservoir below, hurries impetuously along the bottom of a rocky glen, and, passing beneath a small bridge of Gothic arches, mingles its waters with those of the lake. One side of the glen is completely perpendicular, ;uid richly clothed with larch and fir, planted by Colonel Herbert. Owing to the extreme perpendicularity of the sides of the glen, immediately near the waterfall, the men employed in planting the firs, were obliged to be lowered by ropes from

   76 TURK LAKE.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 38

   As the companion tells it

   There is a small lake formed in the hollow of the summit of Mangerton, called the Devil's Punch Bowl. It feeds a rivulet known as the Devil's Stream, which supplies Turk Cascade, a fall of about 60 feet in a chasm between Turk and Mangerton Mountains. In rainy seasons the cascade shows one continued sheet of foam, from the stage where it shoots to the natural basin below. After falling into a deep and gloomy reservoir, the water hurries along the bottom of a rocky glen and passes beneath a small bridge of Gothic arches before mingling with the lake. One side of the glen is completely perpendicular and richly clothed with larch and fir, planted by Colonel Herbert. The sides were so steep near the waterfall that the men employed in planting the firs were obliged to be lowered by ropes.

8. Kenmare town, bridge, and bay

   Kenmare · townland · Kerry

   Kenmare is situated eleven and a half miles from Killarney, with a metal bridge that cost about two thousand pounds. The bay extends about twenty miles in length and three miles across.

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   name. Here a metal bridge will be passed, the building of which cost about two thousand pounds. The bay is about twenty miles in length, and three across. This town is eleven miles and a half from Killarney.

   FronVKenmare the road increases in interest at every mile, as the loftier ranges of the Kerry mountains swell into more imposing elevation, and expand the prominent outlines of their broad and craggy masses to the approaching eye. A view across the Upper Lake is soon gained. The new road, turning to the right, winds its picturesque way from one enchanting prospect to another, between the mountains and the lakes, for a circuit of nearly ten miles. Thus effecting, in the act of travelling alone, half the tour of the lakes, and adding a day of no small enjoyment to the period of the tourist's visit. The course of this new road lies by Mr. Hyde's cottage, between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, and between Turk mountain and Turk lake. Having passed this latter about half a mile, it turns northward by Castlelough bay, and over the Flesk river into Killarney. In this route most of the objects which particularly attract notice, are the same which are noticed in their places in our further progress. We may, therefore, pass at once to the town ; for the blue smoke of which, rising over the trees of the Earl of Kcnmare's

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 22

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Kenmare, in Kerry. The town sits eleven and a half miles from Killarney. As you come to it, you pass a metal bridge, the building of which cost about two thousand pounds. The bay runs about twenty miles in length, and three miles across. From Kenmare the road increases in interest at every mile. The loftier ranges of the Kerry mountains swell into more imposing elevation, expanding the prominent outlines of their broad and craggy masses to the approaching eye. A view across the Upper Lake is soon gained. The new road, turning to the right, winds its picturesque way from one enchanting prospect to another, between the mountains and the lakes, for a circuit of nearly ten miles. In the act of travelling alone, you effect half the tour of the lakes, adding a day of no small enjoyment to your visit. The course of this road lies by Mr. Hyde's cottage, between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, and between Turk mountain and Turk lake. Having passed Turk lake about half a mile, it turns northward by Castlelough bay, and over the Flesk river into Killarney.

9. Mangerton seen from the southern ridge

   Mangerton · townland · Kerry

   From the southern mountain ridge, Mangerton rises in the far blue distance to the east, presenting a dark and lofty massiveness that dominates the landscape.

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   " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, Mangerton rises to the east. A traveller once stood on the southern ridge of mountain on a fine clear March day and looked across. In the far blue distance, Mangerton rose in dark and lofty massiveness. To the left of it stood M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the clouds, leaving one to guess at their mysterious altitudes. Nearer still, to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rose like an embattled wall, and down its mural descent fell the cataract of Adrigoll in a perpendicular column of 800 feet. Nearer again, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain stood almost as white in its quartzose formation as if it were crystallized sugar. Directly underfoot lay the inner harbour of Bantry, protected from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy, and on that placid water studded isles lay up and down.

10. M'Gillicuddy's Reeks towering into the clouds

    Macgillycuddy's Reeks · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    M'Gillicuddy's Reeks are described as having points that pierce the cumulo stratus clouds, leaving observers to guess at their mysterious altitudes.

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    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

    As the companion tells it

    These are the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, the mountain range in Kerry. A traveller once stood on a southern ridge on a fine clear March day and looked across. To the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness. To the left of it stood these Reeks, their points piercing what the writer called the "cumulo stratus" of the clouds, leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes. The peaks vanish into that cloud and give no clue to how high they climb. Nearer still, to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rose like an embattled wall, and down its mural descent fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet. Facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain stood almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation as if it were crystallised sugar. Directly below lay the inner harbour of Bantry, divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy, with studded isles on the placid water.

11. Whiddy Island protecting the inner harbour

    near Whiddy Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    The green island of Whiddy protects and divides the inner harbour of Bantry from the outer bay, studding the placid water with isles and islets.

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    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

    As the companion tells it

    The green island of Whiddy protects and divides the inner harbour of Bantry from the outer bay. On a fine clear March day, from a southern ridge of mountain, the view opens wide. To the east, Mangerton rises in dark and lofty massiveness. To the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks pierce the clouds, leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes. Nearer still, to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rises like an embattled wall, and down its mural descent falls the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet. Nearer again, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain stands almost white in its quartzose formation, as if it were crystallized sugar. Directly below, the inner harbour of Bantry lies sheltered by Whiddy, with isles studding the placid water up and down.

12. Brief visit to Dunloe Castle

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry

    Tourists crossing the bridge over the Laune are directed to visit Dunloe Castle, which should only occupy a short space of time.

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    At an early hour the second day, after breakfast, take shelties, and ride to Aghadoe; enjoy the view of the Lower Lake from the church-yard, and see the ruins of a round tower and castle. Proceed along the road at the fo»t of the hill, to the bridge over the Laune; cross the bridge, and visit Dunloe Castle : this should occupy but a short space. Proceed to the Gap of Dunloe ; ride through the pass, remembering to keep the bugle constantly employed. Arriving at the termination of the pass, keep the left pathway down the valley of Cointne Duff to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Seek permission to ascend the tower in his Lordship's garden. The ponies should be sent back to Killarney with the runners, from the termination of the pass.

    The boat should be in waiting at Lord Bran-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Dunloe, travellers once came here on shelties, riding from Aghadoe along the road at the foot of the hill to the bridge over the Laune. They crossed the bridge and visited the castle. An old guide to Killarney and Glengariff says this should occupy but a short space. Then they proceeded to the Gap of Dunloe, riding through the pass, remembering to keep the bugle constantly employed. At the end of the pass, they took the left pathway down the valley of Cointne Duff to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon, and sought permission to ascend the tower in his Lordship's garden. The ponies were sent back to Killarney with the runners from the end of the pass.

13. Coolranny bridge and its mountain scenery

    Coolranny · townland · Antrim

    The road from Glengariff to Coolranny bridge offers the tourist peculiar varieties of mountain magnificence and sylvan richness at every furlong. The genial southern temperature allows myrtles and delicate shrubs to flourish in sheltered spots.

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    The road winding round this bay presents at every moment some new combination. We would recommend the tourist to proceed to Coolranny bridge, every furlong of which offers some peculiar variety of mountain magnificence or sylvan richness.* The ascent up Ghoul Mountain will repay him by another of those vast perspective views of mountain and marine scenery, of which we have already given some specimens, as he may from thence obtain an unimpeded prospect over mountains and bays, till his vision is

    • In this latter respect the surrounding .scenery is indebted much to the genial temperature of this southern district, which allows myrtles and other delicate shrubs to flourish in every sheltered spot, and al»o much shortens the luaficM interval of the deciduous part of the forest, or mountain copse.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies Coolranny bridge, set among mountain scenery that shifts with every furlong of the road. The guide recommends the traveller proceed to the bridge, where each stretch offers some peculiar variety of mountain magnificence or sylvan richness. The ascent up Ghoul Mountain rewards you with another vast perspective view of mountain and marine scenery, an unimpeded prospect over mountains and bays until the vision is lost. The surrounding scenery owes much to the genial temperature of this southern district. Myrtles and other delicate shrubs flourish in every sheltered spot, and the mild climate shortens the interval of bare branches on the deciduous part of the forest and mountain copse.

14. Gardens of Kenmare House separated by Mucruss road

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    The gardens of Kenmare House are separated from the lawn by the Mucruss road. They are new and in excellent order but derive no advantage from their vicinity to the enchanting scenery of Lough Lein.

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    The gardens, which are separated from the lawn by the Mucruss road, are new, and in excellent order, but derive no advantage from their vicinity to the enchanting scenery of Lough Lein.

    The first thing to be resolved upon, on arriving at the inn, is the route that is to be adopted for the following day. If it be the gap of Dunloe, horses are to be provided, which are to be had here on much more reasonable terms than in Westmoreland ; but if the intention be to visit the Lake, the cockswain who steers the boat, the bugle-man, gunner, &c., are to be sent for, and directed to be in readiness. And here, certainly, the most disgraceful circumstance connected with a visit to the Lakes of Killarney is discovered : the hire of a boat is a very extravagant sum in the first instancef but this the cockswain or boatmen cannot interfere with, the boats being the property of Lord Kenmare, from one of whose stewards they are procured ; but, in addition, the boatmen and cockswain (five persons at least) are to be paid two shillings each for their labour, a bottle of whiskey a man, with dinner for the entire party, including a bugleman and fisherman. How different from the modest charges of Derwent and Windermere ! The boats are large,

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here are the gardens of Kenmare House. A road called the Mucruss road runs between the gardens and the lawn. The gardens are new and in excellent order, but they derive no advantage from their vicinity to the enchanting scenery of Lough Lein. They sit close to that famous water and yet take nothing from it. If you arrive at the inn, the first thing to settle is the route for the following day. If it is the Gap of Dunloe, horses must be provided, and they can be had here on much more reasonable terms than in Westmoreland. If the intention is to visit the lake, then the cockswain who steers the boat, the bugle-man, the gunner and others are to be sent for and directed to be in readiness. The most disgraceful circumstance connected with a visit to the Lakes of Killarney is the cost. The hire of a boat is an extravagant sum to begin with. The boats belong to Lord Kenmare and are procured from one of his stewards. The boatmen and cockswain, at least five persons, are each to be paid two shillings for their labour, a bottle of whiskey per man, and dinner for the entire party, including a bugleman and fisherman.

15. Lake of Glannmore valley

    Glanmore · townland · Kerry

    A few miles north of Hungry Hill, in the valley of Glannmore, lies a lake considered by some to be superior in beauty and picturesque effect to any other of the western lakes.

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    A few miles north of this, in the valley of Glannmore, is a lake, which is by some thought to be superior in beauty and picturesque effect to any other of the western lakes. North-west of Lord Bantry's lodge, are the lakes of Caha — of which there is one for every day in the year — famous for their legendary associations. Of these one is also observable for its scenic attractions.

    These last mentioned places may be all visited from Glengariff, and will require about three days. Of these the first may be given to tho (Jlen, including Mr. White's demesne ; the Eagle's Nest, Ghoul, and the Lakes of Caha, the second ; and Hungry Hill, with Glannmore, the third.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in the valley of Glannmore, lies a lake. Some say it is superior in beauty and picturesque effect to any other of the western lakes. A few miles north of Hungry Hill, this water sits quiet in its valley. Not far away, north-west of Lord Bantry's lodge, are the lakes of Caha. There is said to be one for every day in the year, and they are famous for their legendary associations. The guide suggests giving three days to see these places from Glengariff. One day for the glen and Mr White's demesne, the Eagle's Nest, and the lakes of Caha. Another for Hungry Hill, with Glannmore itself.

16. Lough Swilly compared to Bantry Bay

    near Lough Swilly · estuary · Donegal

    Lough Swilly is mentioned as the only location that comes near Bantry Bay in terms of scenery, though it must yield the palm due to its inferior climate, mountain outline, and harbour expanse.

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    a tedious ascent, you crown the summit, and at once see the whole panorama of Bantry Bay under your feet ; I challenge the British Empire to show such a harbour, or such fine land and sea scenery. Nothing I have yet seen in Wales, or England, or Ireland, is at all comparable to it ; perhaps Lough Swilly comes near it — but it must yield the palm. It is inferior in climate, mountain outline, and expanse of harbour. Besides, Bantry Bay holds that beautiful gem, Glengariff, within the setting of its wide and gorgeous ring.

    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Swilly, the one stretch of water in all of Ireland, Wales, and England that comes near to Bantry Bay in the beauty of its land and sea scenery. That is the judgment of a writer who stood on the southern ridge above Bantry Bay on a fine clear March day and looked out across the whole panorama spread beneath him. He challenged the British Empire to show such a harbour, or such fine scenery, as Bantry Bay. Nothing he had yet seen in Wales, England, or Ireland was at all comparable to it. Perhaps Lough Swilly, he said, comes near it, but it must yield the palm. Lough Swilly is inferior in three things: climate, mountain outline, and expanse of harbour. Beyond those differences, Bantry Bay holds what he calls that beautiful gem, Glengariff, within the setting of its wide and gorgeous ring. From that southern ridge he saw Mangerton rising in the far blue distance to the east, dark and massive. To the left of it stood M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the clouds. Nearer to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rose like an embattled wall, and down its face fell the cataract of Adrigoll in a perpendicular column of 800 feet. Nearer still, facing north, the Sugarloaf mountain, white in its quartzose formation as if it were crystallized sugar.

17. New road from Kenmare to Killarney

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    A new road winds between the mountains and the lakes for a circuit of nearly ten miles, passing Mr. Hyde's cottage between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, then between Turk Mountain and Turk Lake, before turning northward by Castlelough Bay and over the Flesk River into Killarney.

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    FronVKenmare the road increases in interest at every mile, as the loftier ranges of the Kerry mountains swell into more imposing elevation, and expand the prominent outlines of their broad and craggy masses to the approaching eye. A view across the Upper Lake is soon gained. The new road, turning to the right, winds its picturesque way from one enchanting prospect to another, between the mountains and the lakes, for a circuit of nearly ten miles. Thus effecting, in the act of travelling alone, half the tour of the lakes, and adding a day of no small enjoyment to the period of the tourist's visit. The course of this new road lies by Mr. Hyde's cottage, between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, and between Turk mountain and Turk lake. Having passed this latter about half a mile, it turns northward by Castlelough bay, and over the Flesk river into Killarney. In this route most of the objects which particularly attract notice, are the same which are noticed in their places in our further progress. We may, therefore, pass at once to the town ; for the blue smoke of which, rising over the trees of the Earl of Kcnmare's

    42 TOWN OF KILLARNEY.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the new road from Kenmare comes into Killarney, and it is one of the finest stretches of travel in Kerry. As you come from Kenmare, the road gains in interest at every mile. The Kerry mountains rise higher and broader, their craggy masses opening to the approaching eye. A view across the Upper Lake opens up soon after. The new road turns to the right and winds its way between the mountains and the lakes for a circuit of nearly ten miles. In making that journey alone, you have already covered half the tour of the lakes. The road passes Mr. Hyde's cottage, between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, and then between Turk Mountain and Turk Lake. About half a mile past Turk Lake, it turns northward by Castlelough Bay, and over the Flesk River into Killarney, where the blue smoke can be seen rising over the trees.