Guide to Killarney and Glengariff, with six engravings

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Dunloe Castle and demesne visited en route to the Gap

   Dunloe Castle · castle · Kerry

   After crossing the river at Laune or Beaufort Bridge, tourists were directed to visit the Castle of Dunloe and its demesne before continuing along the mountain road to the Gap of Dunloe.

   Read the passage

   At an early hour on the morning of the third day, but remembering to take a hearty breakfast first, mount your shelty, and ride to Aghadoe Church. See the Round Tower, the Round Castle, called by the peasantry the Pulpit, and the stone bearing an Ogham inscription. Returning to the high road, pursue the road to Laune or Heaufort bridge, and, crossing the river, visit the Castle of Dunloe. After a short stay in the demesne, keep the mountain road to the Gap, and proceed, by slow and measured steps, through tin- Pass to the farther end in the vale of Conum- Dulf. The bugle should be kept in unceasing employment all through the Pass, but particularly under the castellated cliff hanging over the pool in which the guide asserts there is an enormous serpent.

   Kntering the valley of Comnie Dun", visit the Waterfall, the best supplied cascade in the whole country. See the islands on the Comnie Duff Lakes, and following the stony bed of a little mountain torrent, arrive at Gheratnine, the seat of Lord Brandon. See the cottage and tower, and

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 66

2. Lord Bantry's mansion and landscaped park

   Bantry · town · Cork

   The fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry sits among trees and wooded hills, with a green, highly dressed lawn sweeping down in easy undulations to the water's edge of Bantry Bay.

   Read the passage

   and islets, one crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a modern battery — here a Martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing palace ;* and to finish the setting of this rich jewel, the trees, woods, hills, and fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry, his green and highly dressed lawn, sweeping down in easy undulations to the very water's edge. I cannot say how much I was struck with this delightful tout ensemble. And certainly, as was exemplified here, any thing that is admirable is made much more so by contrast. I had for miles travelled over a dull and dreary way — bare, desolate, unsatisfactory — rocky elevations, or gloomy moors, crowded with miserable huts, a population evidently and fearfully increasing, amidst difficulties and privations altogether insufficient to check its monstrous progress ; and I had read Malthus's convincing but gloomy book ; and war, pestilence, and famine, ' terribiles visit formte,' rose up in necessary association, as summoned to feast on and make prey in future of this teeming population. It therefore was a pleasant relief, coming down from this district, to rest on the sweet green shores of Bantry Bay, to feast the eye on the wooded hills, with all their herds and deer, of Lord Bantry *s park, hanging as it docs in umbra -

   • Fishing palaces, as they were called, were large establishments on the coast, where they used to cure pilchards.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 8

   As the companion tells it

   As you come through Bantry, the road brings you to where Lord Bantry's fine mansion-house stands among trees and wooded hills. His green and highly dressed lawn sweeps down in easy undulations to the very water's edge of Bantry Bay. The writer who recorded this sight said he could not say how much he was struck with this delightful tout ensemble. He had travelled for miles over a dull and dreary way before reaching it — bare, desolate, rocky elevations and gloomy moors, crowded with miserable huts, a population fearfully increasing amidst difficulties and privations insufficient to check its monstrous progress. He had read Malthus's gloomy book, and war, pestilence, and famine rose up in necessary association, summoned to feast on this teeming population. It was therefore a pleasant relief, coming down from that district, to rest on the sweet green shores of Bantry Bay, to feast the eye on the wooded hills, with all their herds and deer, of Lord Bantry's park, hanging as it does in umbrageous beauty above the water. The bay itself holds islets — one crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a modern battery, here a Martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing palace, as they were called, large establishments on the coast where they used to cure pilchards.

3. The rock called O'Donohoe's Horse

   Castlelough · townland · Kerry

   On the shore towards Castle-Lough Bay, visitors are directed to take notice of a specific rock called O'Donohoe's Horse.

   Read the passage

   Let the guides conduct the shelties to the foot of the mountain, and there await the party, who will find it more practicable to walk than ride down from the Punch-bowl. Having again reached the village of Cloghereen, visit the Abbey of Mucruss and the peninsula, and walk along the shore to Castle-Lough Bay. Take notice of the rock called O'Donohoe's Horse. Have the boat

   • Pronounced Clounu

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 63

4. Bay of Glena scenery and landscape

   Glena · townland · Kerry

   The bay of Glena is described as illustrating the sublime, the horrible, the picturesque, and the beautiful, with views of the majestic Turk and gloomy Mangerton mountains behind it. The summit of Glena is bare and rugged while the base is clothed in deep unbroken wood almost dipping its foliage in the water.

   Read the passage

   usual course is under the woods of Glena ; perhaps there is scarcely any thing in the sublime, the horrible, the picturesque, and beautiful, that is not illustrated in the bay of Glena ; — the majestic Turk, the gloomy Mangerton, with a continued chain of dark and lofty mountains behind them; then the entrance to Turk Lake, and the channel to the upper, possessing beauty and variety ; with the bay of Glena, sheltered by a lofty hill, possessing the scenic character of both the others. The summit of Glena is bare, naked, barren, wild, and rugged, while the base is clothed with a deep mass of unbroken wood, of rich and varied shades, almost dipping their foliage in the water. On the western shore of Glena bay stands a most singular phenomenon, thus described by Hush, in his Hibernia Curiosa, " I have seen an uak, an ash, an hazel, a birch, and a thorn, so incorporated into the trunk of an old lively holly, that they appeared to grow out of its very body, and to exist by feeding on its vitals." — Hush, 14.5. Holmes, 126.

   In the bay of Glena will be found a most pleasing echo, from the impending mountain>, which is much increased in strength and distinctness of articulation by the auditor being stationed at a considerable interval from the origin of the sound. This may be readily accomplished, and to the best possible advantage, by a party, at-

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 34

5. Burial practice permitted at Ardfert abbey

   Ardfert · town · Kerry

   The same abominable burial practice permitted at Mucruss Abbey is also allowed at Ardfert in County Kerry. The author disapproves of the practice, though the specific custom is described in the surrounding context.

   Read the passage

   prevented. At Ardfert and Lislaghtin, in this county, the same abominable practice is also permitted.

   Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, and was a long narrow room, capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as that of his predecessor; for after a lapse of two years, he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry assemble in great numbers, to receive the benedictions of their pastors, and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this venerable building. The cemetery on the south of the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, and throw an arch over, which permit* the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

6. Burial practice permitted at Lislaghtin abbey

   Lislaughtin · townland · Kerry

   The same abominable burial practice permitted at Mucruss Abbey is also allowed at Lislaghtin in County Kerry. The author criticises the allowance of this practice at the ruined abbey site.

   Read the passage

   prevented. At Ardfert and Lislaghtin, in this county, the same abominable practice is also permitted.

   Over the cellar is the kitchen of the monks, with its floor perfect, but without a roof, and there John Drake, a pilgrim, lived for the space of twenty years, and withdrew secretly after this long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, preserving a chimney-piece, or rather fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, and was a long narrow room, capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits of life. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the Abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as that of his predecessor; for after a lapse of two years, he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in the month of July, upon which occasion the peasantry assemble in great numbers, to receive the benedictions of their pastors, and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls of this venerable building. The cemetery on the south of the Abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock, and throw an arch over, which permit* the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and is afterwards closed by a large block of stone in which a ring is

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 50

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Lislaughtin here, there's a ruined abbey where the same abominable burial practice permitted at Mucruss Abbey is also allowed. Over the cellar is the monks' kitchen, its floor still perfect but with no roof. John Drake, a pilgrim, lived in that kitchen for twenty years before withdrawing secretly after his long penance. Next to the kitchen is the refectory, which still preserves a fireplace, and might have been a very comfortable apartment. The dormitory is also tolerably complete, a long narrow room capable of accommodating a number of persons of humble habits. A second pilgrim took up his abode in the upper chambers of the abbey, but his devotion was not so sincere as his predecessor's. After two years he thought proper to retire. The Festival of St. Francis, the patron saint, is celebrated here in July. The peasantry assemble in great numbers to receive the benedictions of their pastors and make their confessions amongst the tombs and ruined walls. The cemetery on the south of the abbey is crowded with tombs and monuments. Persons of property generally hollow out a rock and throw an arch over it, which permits the coffins to be pushed in at one end, and afterwards closed by a large block of stone with a ring in it.

7. Devil's Punch Bowl, lake on Mangerton's summit

   Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry

   The Devil's Punch Bowl is a small lake formed in the hollow of the summit of Mangerton Mountain. It supplies the rivulet known as the Devil's Stream, which feeds Turk Cascade.

   Read the passage

   Behind the cottage, at the distance of about a furlong, in a chasm between Turk and Mangerton Mountains, is Turk Cascade, a fall of about sixty feet, which, in rainy seasons, exhibits one continued sheet of foam, from the stage whence it shoots to the natural basin below : it is supplied from a small lake, formed in the hollow of the summit of Mangerton, called the Devil's Punch Bowl, and the rivulet is thence denominated " The Devil's Stream." This cataract, after falling into a deep and gloomy reservoir below, hurries impetuously along the bottom of a rocky glen, and, passing beneath a small bridge of Gothic arches, mingles its waters with those of the lake. One side of the glen is completely perpendicular, ;uid richly clothed with larch and fir, planted by Colonel Herbert. Owing to the extreme perpendicularity of the sides of the glen, immediately near the waterfall, the men employed in planting the firs, were obliged to be lowered by ropes from

   76 TURK LAKE.

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 38

8. Kenmare town, bridge, and bay

   Kenmare · townland · Kerry

   Kenmare is situated eleven and a half miles from Killarney, with a metal bridge that cost about two thousand pounds. The bay extends about twenty miles in length and three miles across.

   Read the passage

   name. Here a metal bridge will be passed, the building of which cost about two thousand pounds. The bay is about twenty miles in length, and three across. This town is eleven miles and a half from Killarney.

   FronVKenmare the road increases in interest at every mile, as the loftier ranges of the Kerry mountains swell into more imposing elevation, and expand the prominent outlines of their broad and craggy masses to the approaching eye. A view across the Upper Lake is soon gained. The new road, turning to the right, winds its picturesque way from one enchanting prospect to another, between the mountains and the lakes, for a circuit of nearly ten miles. Thus effecting, in the act of travelling alone, half the tour of the lakes, and adding a day of no small enjoyment to the period of the tourist's visit. The course of this new road lies by Mr. Hyde's cottage, between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, and between Turk mountain and Turk lake. Having passed this latter about half a mile, it turns northward by Castlelough bay, and over the Flesk river into Killarney. In this route most of the objects which particularly attract notice, are the same which are noticed in their places in our further progress. We may, therefore, pass at once to the town ; for the blue smoke of which, rising over the trees of the Earl of Kcnmare's

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 22

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Kenmare, in Kerry. The town sits eleven and a half miles from Killarney. As you come to it, you pass a metal bridge, the building of which cost about two thousand pounds. The bay runs about twenty miles in length, and three miles across. From Kenmare the road increases in interest at every mile. The loftier ranges of the Kerry mountains swell into more imposing elevation, expanding the prominent outlines of their broad and craggy masses to the approaching eye. A view across the Upper Lake is soon gained. The new road, turning to the right, winds its picturesque way from one enchanting prospect to another, between the mountains and the lakes, for a circuit of nearly ten miles. In the act of travelling alone, you effect half the tour of the lakes, adding a day of no small enjoyment to your visit. The course of this road lies by Mr. Hyde's cottage, between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, and between Turk mountain and Turk lake. Having passed Turk lake about half a mile, it turns northward by Castlelough bay, and over the Flesk river into Killarney.

9. Mangerton seen from the southern ridge

   Mangerton · townland · Kerry

   From the southern mountain ridge, Mangerton rises in the far blue distance to the east, presenting a dark and lofty massiveness that dominates the landscape.

   Read the passage

   " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

   Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

10. M'Gillicuddy's Reeks towering into the clouds

    Macgillycuddy's Reeks · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    M'Gillicuddy's Reeks are described as having points that pierce the cumulo stratus clouds, leaving observers to guess at their mysterious altitudes.

    Read the passage

    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

11. Whiddy Island protecting the inner harbour

    near Whiddy Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    The green island of Whiddy protects and divides the inner harbour of Bantry from the outer bay, studding the placid water with isles and islets.

    Read the passage

    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

12. Brief visit to Dunloe Castle

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry

    Tourists crossing the bridge over the Laune are directed to visit Dunloe Castle, which should only occupy a short space of time.

    Read the passage

    At an early hour the second day, after breakfast, take shelties, and ride to Aghadoe; enjoy the view of the Lower Lake from the church-yard, and see the ruins of a round tower and castle. Proceed along the road at the fo»t of the hill, to the bridge over the Laune; cross the bridge, and visit Dunloe Castle : this should occupy but a short space. Proceed to the Gap of Dunloe ; ride through the pass, remembering to keep the bugle constantly employed. Arriving at the termination of the pass, keep the left pathway down the valley of Cointne Duff to Gheramine, the seat of Lord Brandon. Seek permission to ascend the tower in his Lordship's garden. The ponies should be sent back to Killarney with the runners, from the termination of the pass.

    The boat should be in waiting at Lord Bran-

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 64

13. Coolranny bridge and its mountain scenery

    Coolranny · townland · Antrim

    The road from Glengariff to Coolranny bridge offers the tourist peculiar varieties of mountain magnificence and sylvan richness at every furlong. The genial southern temperature allows myrtles and delicate shrubs to flourish in sheltered spots.

    Read the passage

    The road winding round this bay presents at every moment some new combination. We would recommend the tourist to proceed to Coolranny bridge, every furlong of which offers some peculiar variety of mountain magnificence or sylvan richness.* The ascent up Ghoul Mountain will repay him by another of those vast perspective views of mountain and marine scenery, of which we have already given some specimens, as he may from thence obtain an unimpeded prospect over mountains and bays, till his vision is

    • In this latter respect the surrounding .scenery is indebted much to the genial temperature of this southern district, which allows myrtles and other delicate shrubs to flourish in every sheltered spot, and al»o much shortens the luaficM interval of the deciduous part of the forest, or mountain copse.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 17

14. Gardens of Kenmare House separated by Mucruss road

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    The gardens of Kenmare House are separated from the lawn by the Mucruss road. They are new and in excellent order but derive no advantage from their vicinity to the enchanting scenery of Lough Lein.

    Read the passage

    The gardens, which are separated from the lawn by the Mucruss road, are new, and in excellent order, but derive no advantage from their vicinity to the enchanting scenery of Lough Lein.

    The first thing to be resolved upon, on arriving at the inn, is the route that is to be adopted for the following day. If it be the gap of Dunloe, horses are to be provided, which are to be had here on much more reasonable terms than in Westmoreland ; but if the intention be to visit the Lake, the cockswain who steers the boat, the bugle-man, gunner, &c., are to be sent for, and directed to be in readiness. And here, certainly, the most disgraceful circumstance connected with a visit to the Lakes of Killarney is discovered : the hire of a boat is a very extravagant sum in the first instancef but this the cockswain or boatmen cannot interfere with, the boats being the property of Lord Kenmare, from one of whose stewards they are procured ; but, in addition, the boatmen and cockswain (five persons at least) are to be paid two shillings each for their labour, a bottle of whiskey a man, with dinner for the entire party, including a bugleman and fisherman. How different from the modest charges of Derwent and Windermere ! The boats are large,

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 23

15. Lake of Glannmore valley

    Glanmore · townland · Kerry

    A few miles north of Hungry Hill, in the valley of Glannmore, lies a lake considered by some to be superior in beauty and picturesque effect to any other of the western lakes.

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    A few miles north of this, in the valley of Glannmore, is a lake, which is by some thought to be superior in beauty and picturesque effect to any other of the western lakes. North-west of Lord Bantry's lodge, are the lakes of Caha — of which there is one for every day in the year — famous for their legendary associations. Of these one is also observable for its scenic attractions.

    These last mentioned places may be all visited from Glengariff, and will require about three days. Of these the first may be given to tho (Jlen, including Mr. White's demesne ; the Eagle's Nest, Ghoul, and the Lakes of Caha, the second ; and Hungry Hill, with Glannmore, the third.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 21

16. Lough Swilly compared to Bantry Bay

    near Lough Swilly · estuary · Donegal

    Lough Swilly is mentioned as the only location that comes near Bantry Bay in terms of scenery, though it must yield the palm due to its inferior climate, mountain outline, and harbour expanse.

    Read the passage

    a tedious ascent, you crown the summit, and at once see the whole panorama of Bantry Bay under your feet ; I challenge the British Empire to show such a harbour, or such fine land and sea scenery. Nothing I have yet seen in Wales, or England, or Ireland, is at all comparable to it ; perhaps Lough Swilly comes near it — but it must yield the palm. It is inferior in climate, mountain outline, and expanse of harbour. Besides, Bantry Bay holds that beautiful gem, Glengariff, within the setting of its wide and gorgeous ring.

    " As I stood on the southern ridge of mountain, and looked across on a fine clear March day — to the east, in the far blue distance, rose Mangerton, in dark and lofty massiveness : to the left of it, M'Gillicuddy's Reeks, their points piercing the ' cumulo stratus' of the clouds, and leaving you to guess at their mysterious altitudes ; nearer still to the north-west, Hungry Mountain rising like an embattled wall before you, and down the mural descent, as relieved from its black ground, fell the cataract of Adrigoll, in a perpendicular column of 800 feet ! — nearer still, facing the north, the Sugarloaf mountain, almost as white in its silicious quartzose formation, as if it were chrystalized sugar ; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 7

17. New road from Kenmare to Killarney

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    A new road winds between the mountains and the lakes for a circuit of nearly ten miles, passing Mr. Hyde's cottage between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, then between Turk Mountain and Turk Lake, before turning northward by Castlelough Bay and over the Flesk River into Killarney.

    Read the passage

    FronVKenmare the road increases in interest at every mile, as the loftier ranges of the Kerry mountains swell into more imposing elevation, and expand the prominent outlines of their broad and craggy masses to the approaching eye. A view across the Upper Lake is soon gained. The new road, turning to the right, winds its picturesque way from one enchanting prospect to another, between the mountains and the lakes, for a circuit of nearly ten miles. Thus effecting, in the act of travelling alone, half the tour of the lakes, and adding a day of no small enjoyment to the period of the tourist's visit. The course of this new road lies by Mr. Hyde's cottage, between the Denycunehy mountains and the Upper Lake, and between Turk mountain and Turk lake. Having passed this latter about half a mile, it turns northward by Castlelough bay, and over the Flesk river into Killarney. In this route most of the objects which particularly attract notice, are the same which are noticed in their places in our further progress. We may, therefore, pass at once to the town ; for the blue smoke of which, rising over the trees of the Earl of Kcnmare's

    42 TOWN OF KILLARNEY.

    Internet Archive guidetokillarney00dubliala, Chapter 22