Highways and byways in Donegal and Antrim;

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Belfast as birthplace of the United Irishmen

   near Belfast · city · Antrim · 1791–1798

   Belfast, mainly Presbyterian and strongly democratic, was a centre of disaffection and opposition to the Union. The Society of United Irishmen was organised there, inspired by the French Revolution and sympathy with the American States. Yet in the 1798 rebellion the town escaped the consequences of the conspiracy it had hatched.

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   It is curious now to reflect that Belfast was one of the great centres of disaffection and opposition to the union a century ago. Its population, mainly Presbyterian, was strongly touched with democratic views. The French Revolution appealed to them and they were in close sympathy with the American States. The famous Society of United Irishmen was organised in Belfast ; but that town has always had a genius for keeping out of harm's way. Neither in 1642 nor in f689 did it emulate the heroism of Derry or share its sacrifices; and in 1798 the rebellion that broke out in consequence of the United Irishmen's conspiracy did not affect the place where the plot was hatched.

   Since 1800 Belfast has been a stronghold of the Protestant ascendency ; the gulf which separated Nonconformists from Churchmen in political sympathies has been bridged over. And Belfast certainly has reason to bless the union, for she is the one Irish town which has won a share in the great access of industrial wealth produced by Free Trade. Between t86i an 1 187 1 the population rose from 119,242 to 207,671. Since then the great shipbuilding industry has developed at an extraordinary pace. The Victoria Channel from the quays direct to the sea has been cut at great cost, and there

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 187

   As the companion tells it

   Belfast is a place worth pausing on, for what was born here. In 1791 the town was mainly Presbyterian and strongly democratic, touched by ideas that had crossed the water. The French Revolution appealed to its people, and they were in close sympathy with the American States. The famous Society of United Irishmen was organised in Belfast, the conspiracy that would lead to rebellion. Yet Belfast has always had what the book calls a genius for keeping out of harm's way. It did not emulate the heroism of Derry or share its sacrifices, not in 1642, nor in the years that followed. And in 1798, when the rebellion broke out in consequence of the United Irishmen's conspiracy, it did not affect the place where the plot was hatched. The town that lit the fuse slipped through the fire. Since 1800 Belfast has been a stronghold of the Protestant ascendancy. The gulf that once separated Nonconformists from Churchmen in political sympathy has been bridged over. Belfast has reason to bless the Union, for it is the one Irish town that won a share in the great access of industrial wealth produced by Free Trade. Its population rose steeply, and the great shipbuilding industry has developed at an extraordinary pace. The Victoria Channel from the quays direct to the sea has been cut at great cost.

2. Carrickfergus Castle: Anglo-Norman fortress

   near Carrickfergus · town · Antrim · 1210–1318

   Carrickfergus Castle is a Norman keep ninety feet high with walls nine feet thick, still retaining its ancient portcullis, and ranks among the best examples of Anglo-Norman fortresses. For three centuries it was the only English stronghold north of the Pale.

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   the work of the Norman builder still defies time. The walls of the keep, which is ninety feet high, are nine feet thick, and the ancient portcullis exists ; and upon the whole there are few better examples of the Anglo-Norman fortress. For three centuries it was the only English stronghold north of the Pale — that is north of Dundalk. It is now occupied as an ordnance depot. Prince John landed here in 12 10 during the reign of his father Henry II. In 13 15 Edward Bruce with his Scots occupied the town and besieged the garrison, who were starved into surrender, but not before they had eaten thirty Scotch prisoners, taken in a sortie. Bruce was crowned king of Ireland there and Carrickfergus remained his capital till 1318, when he was defeated and slain by the English colonists at Dundalk. It was at Carrickfergus that William landed in 1690 on his way to the Boyne, and a stone upon the quay is shown as the first stone in Ireland that the monarch " of glorious, pious and immortal memory " set foot on. In 1 760 a French expedition under Thurot took the town, but were soon afterwards routed by an English squadron under Elliott , and a famous action was fought in the bay by the great Paul Jones against the Drake frigate.

   Lovers of Sir Samuel Ferguson's poetry will remember Carrickfergus as the scene of his spirited ballad Willy Gilliland, which tells the story of an outlawed Covenanter's revenge.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 185

   As the companion tells it

   The road passes near Carrickfergus, a town in Antrim. The Norman work here still defies time. The keep stands ninety feet high, its walls nine feet thick, and the ancient portcullis still exists. Few better examples of an Anglo-Norman fortress remain. For three centuries this was the only English stronghold north of the Pale, north of Dundalk. Prince John landed here in 1210, during the reign of his father Henry II. Later, Edward Bruce came with his Scots and occupied the town. He besieged the garrison, who were starved into surrender, but not before they had eaten thirty Scottish prisoners taken in a sortie. Bruce was crowned king of Ireland here, and the town remained his capital until 1318, when he was defeated and slain by the English colonists at Dundalk. William landed here in 1690 on his way to the Boyne. A stone on the quay is shown as the first stone in Ireland that the monarch set foot on. The town is also the scene of Sir Samuel Ferguson's ballad Willy Gilliland, the story of an outlawed Covenanter's revenge.

3. Church Hill magistrates rule on Adair sheep losses

   Church Hill · townland · Donegal

   Magistrates sitting at Church Hill unanimously resolved that the sheep losses Mr. Adair attributed to malice were actually due to natural causes. The grand jury had raised a levy on the district for compensation, embittering landlord-tenant relations on the Glen Veagh estate.

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   Accusations were freely brought against the tenants and presentments sent in by the grand jury, which raised a levy on the district for compensation, the sheep being rated at a handsome value. The result was a great embittering of the relations between landlord and tenant, which was particularly acute on the Glen Veagh estate. The unfortunate tenants saw their goods distrained to pay for sheep which, in many instances, at all events, had died of exposure to the weather. The magistrates sitting at Church Hill passed a unanimous resolution to the effect that the losses which Mr. Adair charged on malice were due to natural causes. By this time there was a very strong feeling in the countryside that Mr. Adair with all his money and all his beneficent intentions was rapidly turning a peaceable neighbourhood into a hornets' nest. Nothing, however, would convince him but that the people were banded together to do him injury. As he was calling at Gartan Rectory one day, an outhouse took fire, and though the Rector was conspicuous for his sympathy with the tenants, Mr. Adair would have it that an attempt had been made to burn the Rectory and him in it. Finally on November the 13th his manager was found dead on Deny Beagh mountain : no evidence was forthcoming. Mr. Adair determined, under the guidance of a strong sense of duty, to make a great example of this pestilent community. Accordingly in the spring of the year he served ejectment notices on every tenant in Deny Beagh. Matters were serious now and every effort was used to stop so dreadful a measure as to exile a community of several hundred souls not only from their homes but in many cases from their only available means of livelihood. But Mr. Adair was inflexible. The sub-sheriff of the county demanded an escort of 200 police and troops as well. The soldiers were sent down from Dublin, taking tents with them, as if for a campaign ; and the rendezvous was fixed at Lough Barra for April 7th. On April 8th the whole force moved on to its work, and a matter of three days was spent in the task of dragging men and women out of

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   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 59

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   Somewhere around here, magistrates gathered at Church Hill and passed a unanimous resolution. They declared that the sheep losses Mr. Adair had charged to malice were in fact due to natural causes. Many of his sheep had died of exposure to the weather. But Adair would not be convinced. He believed the people were banded together to do him injury. The trouble had been building for some time. The grand jury had sent in presentments and raised a levy on the district for compensation, the sheep rated at a handsome value. Tenants saw their goods distrained to pay for sheep that, in many instances at all events, had died on their own. This embittered relations between landlord and tenant, and it was particularly acute on the Glen Veagh estate. There was a very strong feeling in the countryside that Mr. Adair, with all his money and all his beneficent intentions, was rapidly turning a peaceable neighbourhood into a hornets' nest. When he called at Gartan Rectory one day, an outhouse took fire. The Rector was conspicuous for his sympathy with the tenants, but Mr. Adair would have it that an attempt had been made to burn the Rectory and him in it. Then on November the 13th his manager was found dead on Deny Beagh mountain. No evidence was forthcoming. Mr. Adair determined, under the guidance of a strong sense of duty, to make a great example of this pestilent community. In the spring he served ejectment notices on every tenant in Deny Beagh.

4. Deirdre's blood-cloud vision at Ardmacha

   near Armagh · town · Armagh

   As the company approached the hill of Ardmacha, Deirdre saw a cloud of blood in the sky and warned the sons of Usnach of danger. She counseled them to seek Cúchulainn's protection at Dundalgan, but Naisi refused, saying there was no fear upon them.

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   So they journeyed on till they came to the hill of Ardmacha, and Deirdre said to Naisi, " I see a cloud in the sky, and it is a cloud of blood ; and I would give you counsel, sons of Usnach." " What counsel ? " said Naisi. " Go to Dundalgan where Cuchullan lies, and be under the safeguard of Cuchullan till Fergus end his feasting, for fear of the treachery of Conor." " There is no fear upon us, and we will not practise that counsel," said Naisi.

   As they drew near to Eman of Macha, Deirdre spoke a last warning.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 169

   As the companion tells it

   As the road brings you near Armagh, this is where Deirdre saw a cloud of blood in the sky. She turned to Naisi and the sons of Usnach and said, "I see a cloud in the sky, and it is a cloud of blood." She gave them counsel: go to Dundalgan where Cuchullan lies, and be under his safeguard till Fergus ends his feasting, for fear of the treachery of Conor. Naisi answered, "There is no fear upon us, and we will not practise that counsel." As they drew near to Eman of Macha, Deirdre spoke a last warning.

5. Duneynie, Alexander Macdonnell's stronghold at Ballycastle Bay

   near Ballycastle · town · Antrim · 1500

   Around 1500, Alexander Macdonnell occupied a position north of Ballycastle Bay and built his stronghold of Duneynie. Beneath it lay Port Brittas, where his galleys could easily land when running across from his lordship in Cantire.

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   them in the days of Robert Bruce, whom Angus Og Macdonnell sheltered there in 1306. This Angus made a further step into Ireland, for he married an O'Kane and took for her dowry seven score men of all the names in O'Kane's country, that he might settle them on his lands in Cantire. Another marriage alliance of great moment was contracted by a later Macdonnell with Marjory Bisset, daughter of a Norman family, who originally settled in Scotland. But the Bissets being in trouble for slaying the Earl of Galloway, fled across to the Antrim coast, and there seized and held an estate in the Southern Glens, which came with Marjory to her husband. But the foundation of the Macdonnell power in Antrim dates from Alexander or Alastar Macdonnell, who about 1500 occupied a position on the north of Ballycastle Bay, and built there his stronghold of Duneynie. Under it lay Port Brittas, where there was easy landing for his galleys when they ran across from his lordship in Cantire. The Lordship of the Isles was now by law a thing of the past, but the Macdonnells were insubordinate vassals of the Scottish crown; and as their foothold on the Scotch coast grew less secure — and indeed from 1500 they were practically outlawed in Scotland — so they strengthened themselves on the Antrim shore. Alastar Macdonnell had six sons. James, the eldest brother, married Lady Agnes Campbell, the daughter of the third Earl of Argyll, thus for a moment reconciling two bitterly hostile houses. Moreover, though it was now treason to bear the title, he was elected Lord of the Isles. His lands in Antrim centred round Glenarm, which had come to Clandonnell as the heritage of Marjory Bisset. His brothers set themselves to extend their power northward into the Route, which was then defined as what lay between the Bush and the Bann on the shore, and between the Bann and the Glens inland. Colla Macdonnell, third of the brothers, built Kenbane Castle, whose ruins may still be seen about two miles west of Ballycastle. But he did better than that. The lords of the Route were the MacQuillins, a Norman family settled in Ireland : whether the name repre-

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 157

   As the companion tells it

   Ballycastle sits on the Antrim coast, and around 1500 Alexander Macdonnell occupied a position on the north of Ballycastle Bay and built his stronghold of Duneynie. Beneath it lay Port Brittas, where his galleys could land easily when they ran across from his lordship in Cantire. The Macdonnells had been coming to this coast for a long time. Angus Og Macdonnell had sheltered Robert Bruce there in 1306. Angus married an O'Kane and took for her dowry seven score men of all the names in O'Kane's country, to settle them on his lands in Cantire. A later Macdonnell married Marjory Bisset, daughter of a Norman family that had originally settled in Scotland. The Bissets, in trouble for slaying the Earl of Galloway, fled across to the Antrim coast and seized and held an estate in the Southern Glens, which came with Marjory to her husband. But the foundation of Macdonnell power in Antrim dates from Alexander. The Lordship of the Isles was by law a thing of the past, but the Macdonnells were insubordinate vassals of the Scottish crown. From 1500 they were practically outlawed in Scotland, and as their foothold on the Scotch coast grew less secure, they strengthened themselves on the Antrim shore. Alexander had six sons. James, the eldest, married Lady Agnes Campbell, daughter of the third Earl of Argyll, reconciling two bitterly hostile houses. He was elected Lord of the Isles, though it was now treason to bear the title. His lands centred round Glenarm, the heritage of Marjory Bisset. His brothers set themselves to extend their power northward into the Route, defined as what lay between the Bush and the Bann on the shore, and between the Bann and the Glens inland. Colla Macdonnell, third of the brothers, built Kenbane Castle, whose ruins may still be seen about two miles west of Ballycastle.

6. MacSwiney Castle of Fanad at Rathmullan

   Rathmullan · town · Donegal

   To the west of Rathmullan Abbey once stood the Castle of the MacSwineys of Fanad, who were the easternmost of the three divisions of the MacSwiney clan.

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   which has the most interesting story. The old Abbey, whose ruins still show something of the Norman-Irish architecture, was built for a monastery of the Carmelites by the MacSwineys in the 15th century; though Knox, the Bishop of Raphoe, rebuilt it largely when he got the manor of Rathmullen from Turlough Oge MacSwiney in 16 18. To the west of the Abbey once stood the Castle of the MacSwineys of Fanad, easternmost of the three divisions of the clan. Now, in 1587, when England was full of apprehension, for the Armada was preparing, Sir John Perrott, bastard son of Henry VIII. , ruled as Lord Deputy in Ireland, and it was essential for him to secure peace in that troubled kingdom at such a time. Sir Hugh O'Donnell, the chieftain of Tyrconnell, who had been knighted by Sir Henry Sidney, was paramount in the country ; but Sir Hugh was ruled by his wife — Ineen Dhu Macdonald, a Scotchwoman, daughter of the Lord of the Isles. Her eldest son was Hugh O'Donnell, famous in later life as Red Hugh, and even then celebrated by the bards as a boy of rare promise. Sir John Perrott's main object was to secure Hugh, and, holding him for a hostage, to control O'Donnell and the North. But Ineen Dhu— "The Dark Daughter" — had no thought of letting him go out of safe keeping ; for her heart was set upon this boy, and to ensure his succession to the chieftaincy in those days, when the custom of tanistry had come to mean the succession of whatever claimant for election by the clan could show most backing, she maintained in her own right an army of Scotch mercenaries — "red shanks " as they were called. Further, to make assurance stronger, she had linked the boy by the tie of fosterage — then counted more sacred than blood-relationship — to the greatest of O'Donnell's dependant chiefs, Owen Oge Mac- Swiney— surnamed " Of the Battle-axes," and chief of all the MacSwineys. She sent Hugh to be guarded by his fosterfather in Doe Castle — to this day not an easy place to reach, and then perhaps the least accessible in Elizabeth's dominions.

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   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 117

   As the companion tells it

   Rathmullan in Donegal has the ruins of an old Abbey, built for the Carmelites by the MacSwineys in the 15th century. To the west of the Abbey once stood the Castle of the MacSwineys of Fanad, the easternmost of the three divisions of the clan. Knox, Bishop of Raphoe, rebuilt the Abbey largely when he got the manor of Rathmullen from Turlough Oge MacSwiney. In 1587, when England was full of apprehension and the Armada was preparing, Sir John Perrott, bastard son of Henry VIII, ruled as Lord Deputy in Ireland. He needed to secure peace in that troubled kingdom. Sir Hugh O'Donnell, chieftain of Tyrconnell, knighted by Sir Henry Sidney, was paramount in the country. But Sir Hugh was ruled by his wife, Ineen Dhu Macdonald, a Scotchwoman, daughter of the Lord of the Isles. Her eldest son was Hugh O'Donnell, later famous as Red Hugh, celebrated even then by the bards as a boy of rare promise. Sir John Perrott's main object was to secure Hugh and hold him as a hostage to control O'Donnell and the North. But Ineen Dhu, called "The Dark Daughter," had no thought of letting him go out of safe keeping. Her heart was set on this boy. To ensure his succession to the chieftaincy, when the custom of tanistry meant the succession of whatever claimant for election by the clan could show most backing, she maintained in her own right an army of Scotch mercenaries, called "red shanks." She linked the boy by the tie of fosterage, then counted more sacred than blood-relationship, to Owen Oge MacSwiney, surnamed "Of the Battle-axes," chief of all the MacSwineys. She sent Hugh to be guarded by his foster-father in Doe Castle, then perhaps the least accessible place in Elizabeth's dominions.

7. Portsalon hotel and the 'Orange majority' jest

   near Portsalon · population centre · Donegal

   Colonel Barton established a hotel at Portsalon after the Government built a pier in Ballymastocker Bay. When his rival publican, a Catholic Nationalist, lost the spirit-license dispute, he cursed the 'bloody Orange majority' and predicted Barton would find none in hell. The defeated attorney preserved the joke despite it telling against his own side.

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   Colonel Barton's hotel at Portsalon is, perhaps, the best known of all these Donegal hotels at present, owing to the fortunate circumstance that he has discovered at his door one of the three best golf links in Ireland ; but the hotel was started before golf came to give an impetus to tourist traffic in Donegal, and its owner deserves the credit of a pioneer. The history of it is roughly this : the Government built a pier in Ballymastocker Bay, and Colonel Barton perceived the possibility of working in conjunction with the steamer that should bring excursionists down from Derry. Naturally he applied for a spirit license as hotel-keeper, and this brought about a violent opposition from the neighbouring publican. The opposition was overruled by the Licensing Bench, and Colonel Barker got his license. The defeated rival, who was a Catholic and Nationalist, went away, cursing by all his gods against the "bloody Orange majority." "Ah well," he said to a knot of his sympathisers, "let him alone, boys ; wait till he gets to hell. He'll find no Orange majority there."

   The most delightful part about this story is that it was preserved and published by the publican's attorney, who happened to overhear it, and could not let a good joke perish even when it

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 113

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up now, the road takes you past Portsalon in Donegal. Colonel Barton built a hotel here, and it may be the best known of all the Donegal hotels. That fame owes something to a golf links at his door, one of the three best in Ireland, but the hotel was started before golf came to give a push to tourist traffic. Barton was a pioneer. The history is roughly this. The Government built a pier in Ballymastocker Bay, and Colonel Barton saw he could work with the steamer that would bring excursionists down from Derry. He applied for a spirit license as hotel-keeper. That brought violent opposition from the neighbouring publican. The Licensing Bench overruled the opposition, and Colonel Barton got his license. The defeated rival, a Catholic and a Nationalist, went away cursing by all his gods against the bloody Orange majority. He said to a knot of his sympathisers, let him alone, boys, wait till he gets to hell. He'll find no Orange majority there. The delightful part is that the joke was preserved and published by the publican's own attorney, who overheard it and could not let a good joke perish even when it told against his own side.

8. Rutland Island's failed 1785 fishery project

   Rutland Island or Inishmacadurn · townland · Donegal · 1785

   In 1785, under the Duke of Rutland's viceroyalty, £40,000 was spent constructing quays for the herring fishery, a military station, and a general emporium on Rutland Island near Burton Port. The sand and storms ultimately destroyed the enterprise.

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   Rosses — which is a general name for the district between Dungloe and Gweedore — is scattered in the most curious way with a multiplicity of islands, big and little, ranging from Aran downwards, and in fine weather must be exceedingly picturesque. Thirdly, just here are brought into conspicuous juxtaposition a monument of legislative failure and a living evidence of successful help given by the Government. Just inside of Aran lies Burton Port ; and just off Burton Port is Rutland Island, where in 1785, under the Duke of Rutland's Viceroyalty forty thousand pounds was expended in making quays for the herring fishery, a military station ; and general emporium for this part of the country. The sand and storm had their will of this enterprise j but Burton Port looks a more thriving concern, and likely to defy rough weather. Six or seven years ago fishing on any large scale was practically unknown here : what was the use of men's risking their lives to take a haul of herring and mackerel when all they could do with them would be to spread the rotting fish on their fields for manure ? However the parish priest harangued his parishioners on the duty of catching these fish and curing them ; but that was a new idea to Donegal peasants and new ideas are not welcome. Harangues failing, he got a boat and nets and tried the game on his own account to set an example, but was not successful in spite of the apostolic precedents. However one of his flock, a man who had been in America and seen things done, tried the experiment also and made a big haul, then a second and a third, and by that time the neighbourhood was encouraged. Then came in the Government and advanced money to buy boats and nets, established a curing station and brought men over from Scotland to teach the process. What is the result ? Last year there was paid down on the quay upwards of ,£12,000 for the take of fish to almost a hundred boats. Local tradesmen in Dungloe cured, one 3,000 another 4,000 barrels. Women do the curing and can earn, I was told, about fourteen shillings a week at it not working excess in hours ; and it must be remembered that in the agricultural

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 55

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Rutland Island or Inishmacadurn, in 1785, a grand scheme was tried and the sea undid it. Under the Duke of Rutland's viceroyalty, forty thousand pounds was spent making quays for the herring fishery, a military station, and a general emporium for this part of the country. It was a monument of legislative failure. The sand and storm had their will of the enterprise, and what was built was swallowed. Burton Port, nearby, looked a more thriving concern and likely to defy rough weather. For a long time after, fishing on any large scale was practically unknown here. There seemed no use in men risking their lives to take a haul of herring and mackerel when all they could do was spread the rotting fish on their fields for manure. A parish priest harangued his parishioners on the duty of catching these fish and curing them. But that was a new idea to Donegal peasants, and new ideas are not welcome. Harangues failing, he got a boat and nets and tried the game on his own account to set an example, but was not successful, in spite of apostolic precedents. Then one of his flock, a man who had been in America and seen things done, tried the experiment and made a big haul, then a second and a third, and by that time the neighbourhood was encouraged. The Government came in and advanced money to buy boats and nets, established a curing station, and brought men over from Scotland to teach the process. One year, there was paid down on the quay upwards of twelve thousand pounds for the take of fish to almost a hundred boats. Local tradesmen in Dungloe cured three thousand and four thousand barrels each. Women do the curing and can earn about fourteen shillings a week at it, not working excess in hours.

9. Shane O'Neill meets his fate at Cushendun

   Cushendun · townland · Antrim · 1567

   After his defeat at the Swilly, Shane O'Neill threw himself on the protection of the Antrim Macdonnells and met his fate at Cushendun. The text notes the vale of the Swilly is full of glorious memories for the Kinel Conaill, from Godfrey's march in his coffin to Sir Hugh's overthrowing of Shane the Proud.

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   As for Shane himself, he escaped westward, guided by some O'Gallaghers, up the Swilly river, and crossed at a ford called ScarirThollis, about two miles west of Letterkenny, and made his way by lonely passes to Tyrone, whence, in an evil hour, he threw himself on the protection of the Antrim Macdonnells, and so met his fate at Cushendun.

   So that upon the whole, what between Godfrey O'Donnell's march to victory in his coffin — borne on the heads of gallow-

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 80

   As the companion tells it

   After his defeat at the Swilly in 1567, Shane O'Neill escaped westward, guided by O'Gallaghers, crossing a ford called Scarir Thollis, two miles west of Letterkenny. He made his way by lonely passes to Tyrone. In an evil hour he threw himself on the protection of the Antrim Macdonnells, and met his fate close to Cushendun. The Swilly holds memories for the Kinel Conaill, from Godfrey O'Donnell's march to victory in his coffin to Sir Hugh's overthrow of Shane the Proud.

10. St. Columb's Wells and Stone in Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry

    St. Columb's Wells and St. Columb's stone, bearing the marks of the saint's knees, are located in a lane in Derry. During the siege of Derry, the garrison had to risk enemy fire to draw water from these wells because the town's water supply had been fouled.

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    Town which formed part of the group. All of these have disappeared. A second lane, on the other side of the church, bears the name of St. Columb, and leads to St. Columb's Wells, and St. Columb's stone, on which are to be seen the marks of the Saint's knees. To these wells the garrison were obliged to have recourse during the siege — the water of the town being fouled — but at great risk. " One gentleman " (Walker writes) " had q. bottle broke at his mouth by a shot."

    In 1600 another and even more formidable uprising, under Tyrone, had to be met, and the manoeuvre was repeated. Sir Henry Docwra, with 4,000 foot and 200 horse, sailed into Lough Foyle, landed at Culmore, on the left bank some three miles below Derry, and six days later entered Derry without opposition. The history of his actions there I have already outlined : but it may be worth while to give his account of the place as he found it.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    In Derry, a lane on the far side of the church bears the name of St. Columb and leads to St. Columb's Wells and St. Columb's stone, on which the marks of the saint's knees can be seen. During the siege of Derry, the garrison had to have recourse to these wells, because the water of the town had been fouled. They drew water at great risk, exposed to enemy fire. Walker writes that "one gentleman had a bottle broke at his mouth by a shot." The lane holds the wells and the stone with the marks of the saint's knees, and the memory of the siege, when the garrison came out under fire to draw water because the town's supply had been fouled. A shot could break a bottle at a man's mouth, and still the wells had to be used.

11. The Nun's Grave on Tory Island

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal

    The body of a nun, washed ashore on Tory Island after a storm, was buried by islanders who took her religious habit as a sign of holiness. Fishermen carry a pinch of earth from the Nun's Grave in their boats as protection against drowning.

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    Donegal Highlands, which I have heard from no other source. Long ago, after a terrible storm, the body of a nun was washed up on Tory. The islanders had never seen the religious habit before, but the leathern girdle and beads made them think that surely a blessing was on the body, and " they prayed earnestly for light what to do." In response, they thought they heard a voice telling them that the body was that of a holy nun, and bidding them bury it under the sod, where it was laid in the dress that was on it. This they did as lovingly as they could, " and from that time the 1 Nun's Grave ' is usually graced with the presence of some poor islander, prostrated before it in humble petition to God, through favour of her whose bones are interred therein." And not a boat ever puts out to fish without a handful of earth from the Nun's Grave carefully deposited in the stern. No one may take more than a pinch of the clay, " and no wonder, for many a father of a family, many a poor widow's son has it rescued from drowning."

    Within sight of Tory Island was fought one of the many lesser actions of the great Napoleonic Wars ; but it gains a certain importance from the fact that it ended the career of the Irish rebel who did most to endanger England's supremacy in his country. Theobald Wolfe Tone, a young man of great talent and good education, was the agent of the United Irishmen in France, where he arrived in February, 1796. Within a few weeks he had entirely gained the ear of Hoche, then at the height of his reputation and burning with ambition. The result was first the expedition of December, 1 796, when a fleet of fortythree sail got clear out of Brest with 15,000 men on board, Hoche commanding ; they were scattered by weather, but thirty sail reached Cape Clear on December 21st. Hoche's vessel was missing, and Grouchy, his second in command, waited for him; but finally resolved to land, and was instantly prevented by weather from entering Bantry Bay, and at last driven off the coast by a tremendous storm. Tone came back disap-

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 104

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies the Nun's Grave, a burial place on Tory Island. Long ago, after a terrible storm, the body of a nun was washed up on the shore. The islanders had never seen a religious habit before, but the leathern girdle and beads made them think that surely a blessing was on the body. They prayed earnestly for light as to what to do. In response, they believed they heard a voice telling them that the body was that of a holy nun, and bidding them bury it under the sod, where it was laid in the dress that was on it. They carried out the burial as lovingly as they could. From that time on, the Nun's Grave has drawn islanders to it. Some poor islander may be found there, prostrated before it in humble petition to God, through favour of her whose bones are interred there. And not a boat ever puts out to fish without a handful of earth from the Nun's Grave carefully placed in the stern. No one may take more than a pinch of the clay. The reason is simple enough. Many a father of a family, many a poor widow's son has been rescued from drowning, and the islanders believe the clay from that grave is what has kept them safe on the water.

12. Bonamargy Abbey and Hugh Boyd's coal mines

    Bonamargy · townland · Antrim · 1736–1756

    In 1736 Hugh Boyd obtained from the Earl of Antrim a lease of all coal and mines from Bonamargy, where the old abbey of Ballycastle stands, to Fair Head. Within twenty years Ballycastle became an industrial centre, and Boyd's workmen discovered ancient galleries that predated both English and Irish barbarism, suggesting mining in the area of great antiquity.

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    The town of Ballycastle is full of histories, but it has a comparatively modern past. In 1736 a Mr. Hugh Boyd obtained from the Earl of Antrim a lease of all coal and mines from Bonamargy, where the old abbey of Ballycastle stands, to Fair Head. Within twenty years Ballycastle was an industrial centre. Mr. Boyd started work upon the coal-bed which reaches from Murlough Bay to Glen Shesk ; and, oddly enough, his workmen came upon galleries which must have been driven when England was still barbarous, and before Ireland became so. He also built

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 164

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Hugh Boyd took a lease from the Earl of Antrim in 1736, covering all coal and mines from Bonamargy, where the old abbey of Ballycastle stands, out to Fair Head. Within 20 years Ballycastle had become an industrial centre. Boyd set his men to work on the coal-bed reaching from Murlough Bay to Glen Shesk. His workmen came upon old galleries, driven long before, when England was still barbarous and before Ireland became so.

13. Carlyle's dismal drive to Gweedore via Errigal

    near Gweedore · locality · Donegal · 1849

    In 1849 Thomas Carlyle was driven by Lord George Hill from Ballyarr to Gweedore, passing through Kilmacrennan, over Owen Harrow Bridge, and between Dooish and Errigal. He called it the most black and dismal road he had ever travelled, though the plantations on Dunlewy Lough pleased him.

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    the drive from Letterkenny to liallyarr. " Handsome, gravesmiling man of fifty or more; thick grizzled hair; elegant club nose, low cooing voice, military composure, and absence- of loquacity; a man you love at first sight." Next day Lord' George drove his guest to Gweedore, passing through Kilmacrenan, over Owen Harrow Bridge, and so between Dooish and Errigal. " I never drove, or walked, or rode, in any region such a black, dismal twenty-two miles of road," is Carlyle's comment. And indeed, if you are looking out for high farming and the homes of an industrious and thriving peasantry, that road is little fitted to please you. The plantations on Dunlewy lake rejoiced his soul, however, and here is his sketch of the Gweedore inn, photographic as usual. " Gweedore inn ; two-storied, white, human house, with offices in square behind, at the foot of hills, on the right near the river ; this is the only quite civilised-looking thing ; we enter there through gateway into the clean little sheltered court, and there under the piazza at the back of the inn Forster waits for us and is kindly received."

    The purpose of the hotel was in those days more evident than it is now. It was to make an oasis in what Carlyle called, rightly enough, the " desolate savagery " round it ; the farm attached to it was to show what could be done with the same sort of land as any one else had ; it was to be a kind of standard of human civilisation. Incidentally also it was no doubt meant to make tourists a possible source of revenue, and shame the other inns of the country into cleanliness and comfort. All these things it has done to some extent, and naturally the oasis is no longer so conspicuously an oasis.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 94

    As the companion tells it

    In 1849 the writer Thomas Carlyle came this way. Lord George Hill drove him from Ballyarr to Gweedore, through Kilmacrennan, over Owen Harrow Bridge, and between Dooish and Errigal. Carlyle said he had never driven, walked, or ridden in any region such a black, dismal twenty-two miles of road. If you are looking for high farming and the homes of an industrious and thriving peasantry, that road is little fitted to please you. Carlyle described Lord George as a handsome, grave, smiling man of fifty or more, with thick grizzled hair, an elegant club nose, a low cooing voice, military composure, and an absence of loquacity. A man you love at first sight. The plantations on Dunlewy Lough rejoiced his soul, however. And at the end of the road he found Gweedore inn, a two-storied white human house with offices in a square behind, at the foot of hills, near the river. He called it the only quite civilised-looking thing in the landscape. They entered through a gateway into a clean little sheltered court, and under the piazza at the back of the inn Forster waited for them and was kindly received. The inn was meant to make an oasis in what Carlyle called the desolate savagery round it. The farm attached to it was to show what could be done with the same sort of land as anyone else had. It was to be a kind of standard of human civilisation, and to shame the other inns of the country into cleanliness and comfort.

14. Kelp fires on Donegal Bay mistaken for poteen stills

    near Donegal Bay · bay · Donegal

    A tourist driving along Donegal Bay saw columns of smoke rising from both shores where wrack was being burned to make kelp. When he asked what the smoke was, his driver told him 'them's the stills working,' leading the tourist to believe illicit distillation was openly carried on along ten leagues of coast.

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    Another tourist was driving along Donegal Bay and from both shores along the whole length of it columns of smoke went up from the piles of wrack that was burning to make kelp. He inquired naturally enough what the smoke was. " Sure, sir," said the driver, " them's the stills working " " And do the police never interfere ?" asked the horrified Saxon. "Oh! sir," said the driver with the utmost gravity, " it wouldn't be telling them boys if the polis saw them." The tourist said no more but was eloquent when he got back to his native land on the incompetence of a constabulary that could not see smoke that was visible every mile or so over ten leagues of coast.

    Folklore of course abounds, but it is not easy to come by ; the peasantry are shy of telling stories about the good folk and others, because they believe themselves and see that you do not. The botanist will find Donegal at least, a happy hunting ground; the oddest things grow in the oddest places. On the face of Slieve League, the huge cliff that looks out straight towards America, maidenhair fern grows freely, and in the savage Poisoned Glen under Errigal, the wildest of all these wild places, an enterprising land commissioner discovered the Killarney fern, a plant so delicate that it is hard to keep even in a specially arranged fernery. But these are matters for specialists whom I do not profess to enlighten or direct.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    A traveller driving along Donegal Bay saw columns of smoke rising from both shores, along the whole length of it. The smoke came from piles of wrack burning to make kelp. He asked what it was. His driver told him, "Sure, sir, them's the stills working." The traveller asked whether the police never interfered. The driver answered with the utmost gravity that it wouldn't be telling them boys if the polis saw them. The tourist said no more, but when he got back to his native land he was eloquent about the incompetence of a constabulary that could not see smoke visible every mile or so over ten leagues of coast. He had believed that illicit distillation was openly carried on all along that shore. The passage goes on to say that folklore abounds in Donegal but is not easy to come by. The peasantry are shy of telling stories about the good folk and others, because they believe themselves and see that you do not. The botanist will find Donegal a happy hunting ground. The oddest things grow in the oddest places. On the face of Slieve League, the huge cliff that looks out straight towards America, maidenhair fern grows freely. In the savage Poisoned Glen under Errigal, the wildest of all these wild places, a land commissioner discovered the Killarney fern, a plant so delicate it is hard to keep even in a specially arranged fernery.

15. Plantation of O'Cahan's country by London companies

    Derry · townland · Derry · 1620

    After the fall of Tyrone, O'Cahan was involved in his forfeiture and the whole country between Foyle and Bann was granted to twelve London companies—nearly 40,000 acres for 119 families. The newcomers introduced the flax industry that became Ulster's most important crop.

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    If you had been crossing Lough Foyle in 1600, you would have left the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen— always disputed between O'Neill and O'Donnell — to come into the O'Cahan's or O'Kane's. O'Cahan, whose chief seat was at Limavady, was the principal urraght of O'Neill ; his country included all between the Foyle and the Bann ; and when an O'Neill was proclaimed at Tullaghogue it was the proud function of the O'Cahan to toss a shoe over his head. In 1600 the only trace of the English was the establishment of forts at Culmore and Deny by Sir Henry Docwra, which it seemed little likely they would hold good. Twenty years later the new order wras established. Sir Cahir O'Doherty had rebelled and Chichester was lord of his land in Inishowen. Tyrone had fallen ; in his forfeiture the O'Cahan had been involved ; and the whole country had been made over to twelve London companies — a grant of nearly 40,000 acres to 119 families. It was a black day for the native Irish : but it must be allowed that the new comers brought with them the arts of peace ; and the flax industry, which gave to Ulster what was once its most important crop, and which is still the predominant industry of its thriving towns, dates from the English settlement.

    East of the Bann begins the great Coast Road, down which you will travel, and this country of the Glens escaped " plantation " and therefore remains comparatively Celtic in character. When the O'Donnells and O'Neills went under, the third great house of Ulster, the Macdonnells, escaped, and were taken into high favour by James I., thanks to their Scotch blood. Randal Macdonnell was created Earl of Antrim and received a grant of the Glens and the Route, from the Curran of Larne to the Cutts of Coleraine. Yet, although this coastward strip from the neighbourhood of Coleraine to Larne has never been violently converted into the home of a Saxon and Protestant

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 150

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in 1620, a new order was established that changed this country completely. If you had been crossing Lough Foyle in 1600, you would have left the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen, always disputed between O'Neill and O'Donnell, and come into the O'Cahan's country. O'Cahan, whose chief seat was at Limavady, was the principal urraght of O'Neill. His country included all between the Foyle and the Bann. When an O'Neill was proclaimed at Tullaghogue, it was the proud function of the O'Cahan to toss a shoe over his head. In 1600 the only trace of the English was the establishment of forts at Culmore and Derry by Sir Henry Docwra, which it seemed little likely they would hold good. Twenty years later everything had changed. Sir Cahir O'Doherty had rebelled and Chichester was lord of his land in Inishowen. Tyrone had fallen, and in his forfeiture the O'Cahan had been involved. The whole country was made over to twelve London companies, a grant of nearly 40,000 acres to 119 families. It was a black day for the native Irish. But the new comers brought with them the arts of peace. The flax industry, which gave to Ulster what was once its most important crop and which is still the predominant industry of its thriving towns, dates from this English settlement.

16. The sea cave beneath Dunluce Castle

    Dunluce · townland · Antrim

    On the landward side of the cliff on which Dunluce Castle stands, a great cave begins like the burrow of a gigantic badger. The salt smell of ocean strikes visitors suddenly at the bottom of a dusty path; the tunnel narrows towards its sea exit a hundred yards away, with a strangely regular groined roof.

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    The bridge at Dunluce has really no great terrors ; it is fairly wide and the drop is not big. But it is a convenient test of your fitness to go over Carrick-a-rede, for if you feel the least nervousness at Dunluce, the wider a berth you give to Carricka-rede the better. The last thing to be done is either by boat or land to visit the cave, and indeed it is well worth while to do both. On the landward side of the round cliff on which stands the castle, the cave begins in a great hole like the burrow of some gigantic badger ; you go down a dusty and stony path into it, and at the bottom, the salt smell of ocean gathered up in this funnel strikes you suddenly. The cave is a long tunnel not above ten yards across, and narrowing towards the exit a hundred yards away. As you stand by the water's edge — or near it, for this is a thing to be done with discretion, waves being capricious, incalculable things— looking back you see the meeting of two lights, the landward, which comes in pinkish over the stones, and the colder light reflected in from off the sea face. Overhead is a strangely regular roof with a strong resemblance to the groining that one sees in Jacobean work : and on each side springs the arch upon which rock and

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 160

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Dunluce, there is a sea cave beneath the castle, and it is well worth visiting by boat or by land. On the landward side of the round cliff on which the castle stands, the cave begins in a great hole like the burrow of some gigantic badger. You go down a dusty and stony path into it, and at the bottom the salt smell of ocean gathered up in this funnel strikes you suddenly. The cave is a long tunnel, not above ten yards across, narrowing towards the exit a hundred yards away. Stand by the water's edge, or near it, for this is a thing to be done with discretion, waves being capricious, incalculable things. Looking back, you see the meeting of two lights: the landward light, which comes in pinkish over the stones, and the colder light reflected in from off the sea face. Overhead is a strangely regular roof with a strong resemblance to the groining one sees in Jacobean work, and on each side springs the arch upon which rock and castle rest.

17. Battle of Slieve-an-Aura in Glen Shesk

    Glenshesk · valley · Antrim

    At Slieve-an-Aura in Glen Shesk, the Macdonnells fought a decisive battle that ended the resistance of the older lords, the McQuillans. Those who died in this fight were buried at Bonamargy Abbey.

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    The great days of Ballycastle, however, were under the Macdonnells. The Franciscan Abbey of Bonamargy was, and still is, their sanctuary and burying place. The ground of the cemetery, as Mr. Hill, their historian, puts it, " literally heaves with Clandonnell dust." Here were buried those who fell in the disastrous overthrow of Clandonnell, at the hands of Shane O'Neill in 1565 : and here, too, were buried those who died in the great fight at Slieve-an-Aura up in Glen Shesk, where the Macdonnells finally put an end to the resistance of the older lords the McQuillans. They tell a story of a clansman who went to the Countess of Antrim asking the lease of a farm.

    " Another Macdonnell ? " said the Countess ; " why, you must all be Macdonnells in the Low Glens." " Ay," said the peasant, " too many Macdonnells now ; but not one too many on the day of Aura."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 165

    As the companion tells it

    The valley of Glenshesk saw a great fight at Slieve-an-Aura, where the Macdonnells finally put an end to the resistance of the older lords, the McQuillans. Those who died in that battle were buried at Bonamargy Abbey, the Franciscan house that was the Macdonnells' sanctuary and burying place. Their historian Mr. Hill said the cemetery ground "literally heaves with Clandonnell dust." The abbey also holds those who fell in the disastrous overthrow of Clandonnell at the hands of Shane O'Neill in 1565. Years later, a clansman went to the Countess of Antrim asking the lease of a farm. "Another Macdonnell?" said the Countess. "Why, you must all be Macdonnells in the Low Glens." The peasant answered, "Ay, too many Macdonnells now; but not one too many on the day of Aura."

18. Cahir O'Dogherty sacks and burns Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1608

    After taking Culmore Fort in April 1608, Sir Cahir O'Dogherty advanced on Derry, which he sacked and burnt. Sir Henry Paulet, who had insulted Cahir by striking him, paid with his life for the insult.

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    Sir Cahir O'Dogherty was chief of Inishowen, a district over which Red Hugh claimed lordship. On the death of Cahir's father, Hugh seized the boy, and wished to cause Phelim O'Dogherty, Cahir's uncle, to be proclaimed the O'Dogherty. But Cahir's friends and fosterers, the McDevitts of Birt, near Lough Swilly, appealed to Sir Henry Docwra, who held the new built forts of Culmore and Deny j and Docwra established Cahir as chief, and moreover bred the youth under his own eye in all courtly and warlike exercises, for a staunch supporter of the English. Cahir fought for his allies, was knighted, and in 1607 was foreman of the jury that pronounced the fugitive Earls to be traitors and their property forfeit. What more could an Irish noble do for the English? But Docwra was succeeded by Sir Henry Paulet, who mistrusted Cahir, and after many quarrels was rash enough to strike him. The O'Dogherty went back infuriated to his castle of Birt, which to this day stands south of Inch Island, looking over Lough Swilly, and there he plotted revenge with his fosterers the McDevitts — the clan who, for his sake, had deserted Red Hugh and gone over to the English. In April, 1608, he marched out with a following largely consisting of McDevitts, marched over the base of the Inishowen peninsula, took Culmore Fort on Lough Foyle either by treachery or surprise, garrisoned it with his own men, and advanced on Derry, which he sacked and burnt. Sir Henry Paulet paid with his life for the insult. Thence he proceeded to Lifford, at the junction of the Finn and Foyle, but failed to take it, and retreated into the fastness of Glen Yeagh.

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 73

    As the companion tells it

    Derry is the city you are passing through or near. In 1608 this city was sacked and burned by Sir Cahir O'Dogherty, chief of Inishowen. The story of how that came about goes back years. Cahir's father died when the boy was young, and Red Hugh seized him, wanting Cahir's uncle Phelim proclaimed as the O'Dogherty instead. But Cahir's fosterers, the McDevitts of Birt near Lough Swilly, appealed to Sir Henry Docwra, who held the forts of Culmore and Derry. Docwra established Cahir as chief and raised the youth under his own eye in all courtly and warlike exercises, training him as a staunch supporter of the English. Cahir fought for his allies, was knighted, and in 1607 served as foreman of the jury that pronounced the fugitive Earls to be traitors and their property forfeit. What more could an Irish noble do for the English? But Docwra was succeeded by Sir Henry Paulet, who mistrusted Cahir, and after many quarrels was rash enough to strike him. The O'Dogherty went back infuriated to his castle of Birt, which stands to this day south of Inch Island, looking over Lough Swilly, and there he plotted revenge with his fosterers the McDevitts. In April 1608 he marched out, took Culmore Fort on Lough Foyle by treachery or surprise, garrisoned it with his own men, and advanced on Derry, which he sacked and burnt. Sir Henry Paulet paid with his life for the insult. Thence Cahir proceeded to Lifford, at the junction of the Finn and Foyle, but failed to take it, and retreated into the fastness of Glen Yeagh.

19. Clifford's army positions guns on Mullaghnashee

    Mullaghnashee · townland · Roscommon

    After crossing the Erne, Clifford marched to Assaroe and his troops took up a position on Mullaghnashee, the hill where the parish church stands, planting their guns there to besiege the castle. The Annals give a vivid bardic description of the failed assault.

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    the plates of his armour, by a ball, and fell into the river. The monks of Assaroe found his body and interred it ; but the Franciscan friars of Donegal insisted that the O'Briens were always buried in their houses, and appealed to have the body lifted and interred with them, which was done by Red Hugh's order; so great was the contention for the bones of a descendant of Brian Boru. Clifford having crossed the Erne marched down the right bank to Assaroe, and on the same day a ship from Galway bringing ordnance for his support put into Inis-saimer, or Fish Island. The troops then took up a position on Mullaghnashee (the hill on which the parish church stands) and planted their guns there. Probably one of the Four Masters saw the scene, so eloquent is his description.

    " On Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday they continued to fire, shooting at the castle with heavy loud-sounding fiery balls from the loud-roaring shot-vomiting guns of that heavy and huge ordnance which they planted opposite the fortress. They sent large parties of their choicest soldiers to the castle with wallrazing engines and with thick and strong iron armour about their bodies and bright shining helmets on their heads with a bright 1 testudo ' of round broad hard iron shields around them to protect them from the shot of their enemies. The resolute attack they made upon the fortress, however, was of no avail to them; and it had been better for them that they had not come this journey against it ; for from the castle were poured down upon them showers of brilliant fire from well-planted straightaimed guns and from costly muskets and some rough-headed rocks and massive solid stones and beams and blocks of timber which were kept on the battlements of the fortress in readiness to be hurled down ; so that the coverings of the razing party wTere of no shelter or protection to them and great numbers of them were destroyed, and others who were severely wounded became so exhausted that they delayed not to be further slaughtered, and turning their backs to their enemies they were routed to the camp."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Mullaghnashee, Clifford's army planted their guns on the hill where the parish church stands. Clifford had crossed the Erne and marched down the right bank to Assaroe, and on the same day a ship from Galway arrived carrying ordnance for his support, putting in at Inis-saimer, or Fish Island. His troops then took up their position on this hill and set their artillery there, aiming at the castle below. The Annals of the Four Masters describe the assault with vivid force. For three days, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, they kept up their fire, shooting at the castle with heavy loud-sounding fiery balls from the loud-roaring shot-vomiting guns of that heavy and huge ordnance which they planted opposite the fortress. They sent large parties of their choicest soldiers against the walls, with wall-razing engines, thick iron armour about their bodies, bright shining helmets on their heads, and a testudo of round broad hard iron shields to protect them from the defenders' shot. But the attack was of no avail. From the castle, the garrison poured down showers of brilliant fire from well-placed guns and costly muskets, along with rough-headed rocks, massive stones, and beams and blocks of timber hurled from the battlements. The iron coverings gave the razing party no shelter. Great numbers were destroyed, and the severely wounded became so exhausted they did not stay to be further slaughtered. Turning their backs, they were routed back to the camp.

20. Magherabeg monastery profaned by English troops

    Magherabeg · townland · Donegal · 1601

    The Four Masters record that English forces quartered at the monastery of Magherabeg profaned its churches and ecclesiastical apartments. The text describes divine vengeance falling upon them for this desecration during the siege of Donegal.

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    pleasantly, for killing and destroying, conflict and shooting, were carried on by each party against the other. The English were reduced to great straits and distress by the long siege in which they were kept by O'Donnell's people; and some of them used to desert to O'Donnell's camp in twos or threes in consequence of the distress and straits they were in from the want of a proper ration of food. Thus they passed the time till the end of September when God willed to take revenge and satisfaction of the English for the profanation and abuse which they had offered to the churches and apartments of the psalmsinging ecclesiastics of the monastery of Donegal and the monastery of Magherabeg in which they were quartered and encamped. The vengeance which God wreaked upon them was this, however it cameto pass : fire fell amongthe powder which had been put in the monastery of Donegal for carrying on the war; so that the boarded apartments and all the stone and wooden buildings of the entire monastery were burned. As soon as the spies and sentinels whom O'Donnell had posted to spy and watch the English perceived the brown-red mass of flames, and the dense cloud of vapour and smoke that rose upon the monastery, they began to discharge their leaden bullets and their fiery flashes in order that O'Donnell might immediately come to them to attack the English, for they thought it would occasion too long a delay to send him messengers. The signal was not slowly responded to by O'Donnell and his army, for they vehemently and rapidly advanced with their utmost speed in troops and squadrons to where their people were at the monastery. Bloody and furious was the attack they made upon the English and their own friends and kinsmen who were there. It was difficult and almost impossible for O'Donnell's people to withstand the fire of the soldiers who were in the monastery and the castle of Donegal and in a ship which was in the harbour opposite to them ; yet, however, O'Donnell's people had the better of it, although many of them were cut off. Con Og, the brother of Nial Garv, fell with three hundred others in that slaughter.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Magherabeg, in the year 1601, English troops quartered in a monastery here profaned its churches and the apartments of the psalmsinging ecclesiastics who lived in it. The Four Masters say the same forces did the same at the monastery of Donegal, where they were encamped. O'Donnell's people had kept the English under a long siege, reducing them to great distress, so that some soldiers deserted in twos and threes for want of proper food. This went on until the end of September, when, as the record puts it, God willed to take revenge and satisfaction for the profanation and abuse offered to those churches. The vengeance came by fire. It fell among the powder the English had stored in the monastery of Donegal for carrying on the war, and the blaze consumed the boarded apartments and every stone and wooden building of the entire monastery. O'Donnell's sentinels, posted to watch the English, saw the brown-red flames and the dense cloud of smoke rising over the monastery. They fired their leaden bullets and fiery flashes as a signal, not waiting to send messengers, thinking that would take too long. O'Donnell and his army were not slow to answer. They came rapidly in troops and squadrons to where their people waited. The attack they made on the English was bloody and furious. It was difficult and nearly impossible for O'Donnell's people to withstand the fire coming from the soldiers in the monastery, the castle of Donegal, and a ship in the harbour opposite. Still, O'Donnell's people had the better of it, though many of their own were cut off. Con Og, the brother of Nial Garv, fell there, with 300 others in that slaughter.

21. Bingham plunders the Carmelite Abbey at Rathmullan

    Rathmullan · town · Donegal · 1595

    As reprisal during the war against the Earls, George Bingham, son of the Governor of Connaught, sailed round the Swilly and plundered the Carmelite Abbey at Rathmullan. This was part of the English campaign against O'Donnell's territory.

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    nobles of Tyrconnell, both lay and ecclesiastical." Had descent, not election, decided these matters, after the English law, the chief of the O'Donnells would have been Neil Garv O'Donnell (Neil the Fierce), son of Con O'Donnell, who was son of Calvagh. As it was, Neil counted that he was the better man, and made no secret of his spleen. But, at first, he fought right well under his cousin, and his cousin was the very man to keep him busy. Hugh Roe's first act was to raid the territories of Turlough Lynach O'Neill, the man who claimed to succeed to Shane's position, and lived at Strabane. There Red Hugh made — by Tyrone's advice — formal submission to Government. But he and Tyrone were already plotting to obtain Spanish aid and revolt from England. By O'Donnell's repeated attacks, Turlough Lynach was obliged to resign his title of the O'Neill, which was then assumed by the Earl of Tyrone : a first sign of disaffection, as Tyrone had pledged himself not to bear it. The O'Donnell and the O'Neill were now virtually lords of all Ulster. In 1594, Enniskillen was reduced by Hugh Maguire, chief of Fermanagh, acting under O'Donnell's orders. In 1 595, Red Hugh attempted to drive the English out of Connaught, but their occupation of that province had been for a long time effective, and they held fortresses all through it. He raided the country, however, unopposed, and when his enemies waited for him in the passes from Connaught into Tyrconnell, turned to the east, and carried fire and sword into the Pale. War was now definitely levied against the Earls j and by way of reprisal, George Bingham, son of Sir Richard Bingham, Governor of Connaught, sailed round the Swilly, and plundered the Carmelite Abbey at Rathmullen. It seemed to them worth while even to make a descent upon Tory — not for any riches of the inhabitants, but for the spoils of Columbkille's church there, and there "they preyed and plundered everything they found on the island." Meanwhile, however, O'Neill and O'Donnell had driven back Sir John Norris's army, O'Neill, it is said, killing in single combat a huge soldier, Segrave of Meath ; and George Bingham, say the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 121

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into Rathmullan, in Donegal. In 1595, this was a target in the war between the Earls and the English. Red Hugh O'Donnell had been pressing the fight hard. In 1594, Hugh Maguire, chief of Fermanagh, acting under O'Donnell's orders, reduced Enniskillen. In 1595, Red Hugh attempted to drive the English out of Connaught. Their occupation there had been effective for a long time, and they held fortresses all through it, so he raided the country unopposed instead. When his enemies waited for him in the passes from Connaught into Tyrconnell, he turned east and carried fire and sword into the Pale. War was now definitely levied against the Earls. By way of reprisal, George Bingham, son of Sir Richard Bingham, Governor of Connaught, sailed round the Swilly, and plundered the Carmelite Abbey at Rathmullan. The English even made a descent upon Tory Island, not for any riches of the inhabitants, but for the spoils of Columbkille's church there, and there they preyed and plundered everything they found on the island. Meanwhile, O'Neill and O'Donnell had driven back Sir John Norris's army. O'Neill, it is said, killed in single combat a huge soldier, Segrave of Meath. The plunder of this abbey was a blow struck back at O'Donnell's territory, part of a campaign that had engulfed all of Ulster.

22. Captured flags in Derry Cathedral

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1689

    Flags captured during a sally from Ferryquay Gate and Bishop's Gate on the night of May 6th are preserved in Derry Cathedral. An inscription under a window in the south chancel aisle commemorates the engagement.

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    Be that as it may, there is no doubt about the siege. The enemy encamped in four divisions about the town commanding the roads of access. The defenders were divided into eight regiments two to each of the four quarters. The siege was practically a blockade from the first ; no serious assault was ever made on the walls : and there was no cannon in the Irish army heavy enough to batter them. The enemy's headquarters were out towards Culmore; here Maumont, whom James in withdrawing left in command, was encamped: and the besieged did not leave them long in idleness. On the 21st a party under Colonel Murray sallied out, and in the action had the extraordinary good fortune tokill the enemy's commander-in-chief: though Maumont fell by a bullet wound and not, as is related, by Murray's sword. His command devolved on Richard Hamilton. Meanwhile the inhabitants from the wall about Shipquay gate watched this first trial of forces. In the first week of the siege the fighting was chiefly on the north east side ; cannon were planted outside the gate which knocked about the houses, exposed by the rising ground, but did little other damage. On the 5th of May a more serious attempt was made from the west side upon the Windmill Hill which is crowned by Bishop's Gate. Hamilton drew a trench from the bog to the river and established a battery: but on the night of the 6th a sally was made simultaneously from Ferryquay Gate and Bishop's Gate, and the enemy were driven out with loss. It was in this engagement that the flags preserved in the cathedral were taken and an inscription under a window in the south chancel aisle commemorates it. From this onward the besieged held a space about 250 yards wide defended by a trench along the Windmill Hill and outside the walls. On June 4th the whole line of this entrenchment was assaulted and there ensued what is called the Battle of the Windmill Hill. The Irish horse

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 146

    As the companion tells it

    In Derry, the cathedral holds flags taken during the siege of 1689. An inscription under a window in the south chancel aisle commemorates the engagement in which they were captured. The siege began when James left Maumont in command, with headquarters out towards Culmore. The enemy encamped in four divisions about the town, commanding the roads of access. The defenders were divided into eight regiments, two to each of the four quarters. It was practically a blockade from the first. No serious assault was ever made on the walls, and the Irish army had no cannon heavy enough to batter them. The besieged did not leave the enemy long in idleness. On the 21st a party under Colonel Murray sallied out, and had the extraordinary good fortune to kill the enemy's commander-in-chief. Maumont fell by a bullet wound, not by Murray's sword as is related. His command devolved on Richard Hamilton. The inhabitants watched this first trial of forces from the wall about Shipquay Gate. On the 5th of May a more serious attempt was made from the west side upon Windmill Hill, which is crowned by Bishop's Gate. Hamilton drew a trench from the bog to the river and established a battery. But on the night of the 6th a sally was made simultaneously from Ferryquay Gate and Bishop's Gate, and the enemy were driven out with loss. It was in this engagement that the flags preserved in the cathedral were taken. From this point onward the besieged held a space about 250 yards wide, defended by a trench along Windmill Hill and outside the walls. On June 4th the whole line of this entrenchment was assaulted, in what is called the Battle of the Windmill Hill.

23. Carrickfergus named from Fergus Mac Ere

    near Carrickfergus · town · Antrim · 500–600

    Fergus Mac Ere, the prince who consolidated the Dalriadic kingdom in the early sixth century, was driven off course by wind on a journey between Antrim and Cantire and was lost on the rock that still bears his name — Carrickfergus, the Rock of Fergus.

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    From Eoghad of the Hy Niall and his wife Aileach, daughter of the King of Alba — the princess for whom was built the Grianan of Aileach, looking over Lough Swiliy — sprang a numerous family. Two of her sons founded the Dalriadic kingdom, with a foot on either shore of the Movie, which early in the sixth century was consolidated by Fergus Mac Ere — the prince who on one of his journeys between the shores of Antrim and Cantire was driven out of his course by wind and lost on the rock which still keeps his name, Carrickfergus — the Rock of Fergus. By the end of the sixth century the Scotch kingdom— the Lordship of the Isles — was recognised as distinct and independent ; and when the Macdonnells came to Ireland, as they did countless times between the sixth and fourteenth centuries, they came either as allies or enemies. In 12 n, for instance, they spoiled Derry, but it was as the allies of the O'Donnells of Tyrconnell. They were not then known as Macdonnells. Donnell, the chief from whom the Clandonnell took its name, was Lord of the Isles about 1250. Their stepping stone to the Irish coast was Rathlin, which belonged to

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 156

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Carrickfergus takes its name from a man lost on its rock in the early sixth century. Fergus Mac Ere was a prince of the Dalriadic kingdom, which had been founded by two sons of Eoghad of the Hy Niall and his wife Aileach, daughter of the King of Alba. Aileach was the princess for whom the Grianan of Aileach was built, looking over Lough Swilly. The kingdom those sons founded had a foot on either shore of the Moyle, and early in the sixth century Fergus Mac Ere consolidated it. On one of his journeys between the shores of Antrim and Cantire he was driven out of his course by wind and lost on the rock which still keeps his name. Carrickfergus means the Rock of Fergus. By the end of the sixth century the kingdom of the Isles was recognised as distinct and independent. The Macdonnells came to Ireland countless times between the sixth and fourteenth centuries, coming either as allies or enemies. Donnell, the chief from whom the Clandonnell took its name, was Lord of the Isles about 1250. Their stepping stone to the Irish coast was Rathlin.

24. Derrybeg chapel flood drowns worshippers

    near Derrybeg · town · Donegal · 1880–1885

    The Derrybeg chapel was built astride a stream, and on a Sunday in the early 1880s a heavy flood burst the culvert beneath the chapel, instantly filling the building and drowning several worshippers.

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    Leaving Bunbeg, you take a road running eastward along the coast to Derrybeg, about two miles off ; you will know when you get there by a very steep and rather tortuous hill, on which there is more than the usual chance of meeting a cow or donkey, owing to the presence of some cabins halfway down. At the hill's foot a small stream flows under a bridge, and in the tiny hollow of a gorge is Derrybeg chapel, unhappily too well known. In this hollow, when the penal laws existed, the people of the district assembled to hear mass in the open air; the spot itself was secure from observation, and sentries posted in the heather round easily guarded against a surprise of the priest. So when the penal laws were repealed, and Derrybeg grew rich enough to have a chapel — it is wonderful how much money the poorest parishes will contribute for this end — they were determined that the chapel should stand nowhere but in this spot of many memories. The chapel actually stands astride of the stream ; and early in the eighties, on one Sunday a heavy flood came down, burst the culvert under the chapel, and instantly filling the building, drowned several of the worshippers. Worse, however, had to come. In February, 1889, the whole Gweedore district was in a state of suppressed rebellion. The Plan of Campaign had been preached, great evictions followed on the Olphert estate, and troops were sent down to keep the population under. They brought with them the famous battering-ram, which was used for knocking in the walls of cabins whose inmates refused to open to the officers of the law. If these things have to be done, it is well to take the simplest and most efficacious means of doing them; but the necessity was not an agreeable one, and the feelings of the peasantry were inflamed to the uttermost. Their leader was the priest, Father Macfadden, who in all negotiations with landlords acted as a spokesman for his flock; and to the influence which his office gave him among a people superstitious or religious in the highest degree, he added the natural ascendency of a strong character. The Government was anxious to arrest him, but the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 96

    As the companion tells it

    Derrybeg is a place the road passes through, about two miles east of Bunbeg along the coast. You know it by a steep and tortuous hill, with more than the usual chance of meeting a cow or donkey, owing to some cabins halfway down. At the foot of that hill a small stream flows under a bridge, and in the tiny hollow of a gorge stands Derrybeg chapel, unhappily too well known. In this hollow, when the penal laws existed, the people of the district assembled to hear mass in the open air. The spot was secure from observation, and sentries posted in the heather round about easily guarded against a surprise of the priest. When the penal laws were repealed and Derrybeg grew rich enough to have a chapel, the poorest parishes contributing money for this end, they were determined that the chapel should stand nowhere but in this spot of many memories. The chapel actually stands astride of the stream. Early in the eighties, on one Sunday, a heavy flood came down, burst the culvert under the chapel, and instantly filling the building, drowned several of the worshippers. Worse had to come. In February 1889, the whole Gweedore district was in a state of suppressed rebellion. The Plan of Campaign had been preached, great evictions followed on the Olphert estate, and troops were sent down to keep the population under. They brought the famous battering-ram, used for knocking in the walls of cabins whose inmates refused to open to the officers of the law. The feelings of the peasantry were inflamed to the uttermost. Their leader was the priest, Father Macfadden, who acted as spokesman for his flock in all negotiations with landlords, and to the influence of his office among a people superstitious or religious in the highest degree he added the natural ascendency of a strong character. The Government was anxious to arrest him.

25. Donegal Abbey's riches in Cuellar's time

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1588–1600

    At the time of Cuellar's account, Donegal Abbey possessed forty priests' vestments, many of cloth of gold and silver, and sixteen large chalices, all but two of them gilt. This wealth contrasted sharply with the poverty of the surrounding outlying districts.

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    This is of course the description of a poor, outlying district. In Donegal Abbey at this time there were " forty priests' vestments with all their belongings ; many of them were of cloth of gold and silver, some of them interwoven and wrought with gold ornaments ; all the rest were of silk. We had, moreover, sixteen large chalices all but two of them gilt."

    Cuellar's stay with MacClancy seemed likely to come to an end, when Fitzwilliam came down, hanging all Spaniards, and punishing their harbourers ; MacClancy decided that he, as a chief who paid no Queen's rent, must fly ; but Cuellar undertook to remain with the other Spaniards and hold the castle on Lough Melvin which is still there. Fitzwilliam came to the lough side with a large force but failed to make the Spaniards surrender, and was driven away by a heavy fall of snow. Cuellar's reputation now stood so high that MacClancy was unwilling to let him go ; so he escaped secretly and made his way east, travelling for twenty days through the mountains of Donegal and Derry till he got to Dunluce, where he heard of

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Donegal, this was a poor, outlying district in 1588. Yet Donegal Abbey held remarkable wealth. The Spaniard Cuellar recorded that the abbey had forty priests' vestments with all their belongings. Many were of cloth of gold and silver, some interwoven and wrought with gold ornaments, and all the rest were of silk. The abbey also had sixteen large chalices, all but two of them gilt. Cuellar's stay with MacClancy seemed likely to end when Fitzwilliam came down, hanging all Spaniards and punishing their harbourers. MacClancy, a chief who paid no Queen's rent, decided he must flee. But Cuellar undertook to remain with the other Spaniards and hold the castle on Lough Melvin, which is still there. Fitzwilliam came to the lough side with a large force but failed to make the Spaniards surrender, and was driven away by a heavy fall of snow. Cuellar's reputation now stood so high that MacClancy was unwilling to let him go, so he escaped secretly and made his way east, travelling for twenty days through the mountains of Donegal and Derry till he got to Dunluce.

26. Healing water at Columbkille chapel, Gartan

    Bellville or Gartan · townland · Donegal

    Water collected from a hollow in a stone on the altar of Columbkille chapel in Gartan is sought as a cure for many ailments. Both Protestants (called 'Scotch') and Catholics (called 'Irish') come for the water, and a local man notes that 'a Scotch prayer goes as far as an Irish prayer.'

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    A R. C. native of Gartan expressed " liberal spirit of churchmanship " (the water in the hollow of a stone on the altar in Columbkille chapel, used with prayer, is sought as a cure for many ailments) : " There's many comes here for the watter, Scotch and Irish ; an' for a' that A see, a Scotch prayer goes as far as an Irish prayer." Here " Scotch " stands for Protestant ; " Irish " for Roman Catholic.

    An old man tells how he has walked all night with his wife, to see his daughter in hospital. " My wumman an' me, we niver stretched side a' nicht, we wur thinkin' that long to see the cutty."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Bellville or Gartan, there's water in the hollow of a stone on the altar of Columbkille chapel. People seek it with prayer as a cure for many ailments. A Roman Catholic man from Gartan said: "There's many comes here for the watter, Scotch and Irish; an' for a' that A see, a Scotch prayer goes as far as an Irish prayer." Scotch here means Protestant, Irish means Roman Catholic. An old man told how he walked all night with his wife to see his daughter in hospital. "My wumman an' me, we niver stretched side a' nicht, we wur thinkin' that long to see the cutty."

27. Huguenot settlers and the linen trade in Belfast

    near Belfast · city · Antrim · 1685–1800

    After the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, Huguenot refugees settled in Belfast, bringing expertise in damask and cambric manufacture. William III encouraged the linen trade as compensation for suppressing the Irish woollen industry, patronising the chief Huguenot manufacturers. The town grew steadily through the eighteenth century, more than doubling its population.

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    woven in Ireland. After the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes Huguenots settled there, bringing with them skill in the making of damasks and cambrics. But the special impetus to prosperity in Belfast was given by the iniquitous measures passed under William III., which killed the woollen manufactures in Ireland, then competing successfully with those of England. England was not interested in the linen trade, so William could afford to encourage it, and by way of compensation he did so, patronising especially the chief Huguenot manufacturers. The town grew steadily during the eighteenth century, more than doubling its population.

    It is curious now to reflect that Belfast was one of the great centres of disaffection and opposition to the union a century ago. Its population, mainly Presbyterian, was strongly touched with democratic views. The French Revolution appealed to them and they were in close sympathy with the American States. The famous Society of United Irishmen was organised in Belfast ; but that town has always had a genius for keeping out of harm's way. Neither in 1642 nor in f689 did it emulate the heroism of Derry or share its sacrifices; and in 1798 the rebellion that broke out in consequence of the United Irishmen's conspiracy did not affect the place where the plot was hatched.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 187

    As the companion tells it

    Belfast is the city the road passes through. After the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, Huguenots settled there, bringing with them skill in the making of damasks and cambrics. But the special impetus to prosperity in Belfast was given by the measures passed under William III, which killed the woollen manufactures in Ireland, then competing successfully with those of England. England was not interested in the linen trade, so William could afford to encourage it, and by way of compensation he did so, patronising especially the chief Huguenot manufacturers. The town grew steadily during the eighteenth century, more than doubling its population. It is curious now to reflect that Belfast was one of the great centres of disaffection and opposition to the union. Its population, mainly Presbyterian, was strongly touched with democratic views. The French Revolution appealed to them and they were in close sympathy with the American States. The famous Society of United Irishmen was organised in Belfast. But that town has always had a genius for keeping out of harm's way. Neither in 1642 did it emulate the heroism of Derry or share its sacrifices, and in 1798 the rebellion that broke out in consequence of the United Irishmen's conspiracy did not affect the place where the plot was hatched.

28. Norse and Danish raids on Derry Abbey

    near Derry · city · Derry · 783–852

    Derry's monastery was burned in 783 and raided by Norse and Danish pirates in 832 due to its position on a navigable river. The Lord of Aileach repulsed the marauders, but twenty years later the coarb of Columbkille was martyred by Saxon invaders.

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    But the foundation which Columba set thus to nestle under the shadow of the Grianan had little peace. In 783 it was burned, and in 832 its position on a navigable river exposed it to a raid from the Norse and Danish pirates. The marauders were at this time repulsed by the Lord of Aileach, but twenty years later the coarb, or successor of Columbkille in the Abbey, was martyred by Saxon invaders. In 937 Aileach itself was plundered by the Danes, and from that time onward, we read in the annals of their inroads at brief intervals. In 1100 the foreigners came to Derry under the guidance of an Irish chief, Murtagh O'Brien, who in the next year destroyed Aileach ; but his venture by sea only brought loss to him and his allies. It would seem that Derry must have submitted to Murtagh O'Brien, for in 11 24 "Ardgar, heir to the throne of Aileach, was killed by the people of Derry in defence of Columbkille," that is, presumably, in defence of the Abbey. In 1135 Derry Columbkille was burnt once more. But the ascendency of the Abbey seems to have grown in spite of burnings, for in 1158 a

    1 Erom Dr. Sigerson's Bards of the Gael and Gall.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 139

    As the companion tells it

    The city of Derry holds the story of a monastery Columba founded to nestle under the shadow of the Grianan, and it had little peace. In 783 it was burned. In 832 its position on a navigable river exposed it to a raid from Norse and Danish pirates. The marauders were repulsed at that time by the Lord of Aileach. But twenty years later the coarb, the successor of Columbkille in the Abbey, was martyred by Saxon invaders. The river that served the monastery also brought the raiders to its walls. The Lord of Aileach could drive them off for a season, but the peace did not last. The coarb who bore Columbkille's office in the Abbey fell to Saxon hands, and the burnings and raids followed one another through the years of this place.

29. Portrush golf links and the 'Purgatory' bunker

    near Portrush · town · Antrim

    Portrush's golf links are accounted the best in Ireland, with a famous bunker called 'Purgatory' that causes much distress to golfers. Golf has done Portrush a good turn, making it a prosperous little haven on an otherwise harbourless coast.

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    A little rise brings you to the brow above Portrush and you run down into that prosperous little haven on this very harbourless coast. Golf has done Portrush a good turn, for the links there are accounted, on the whole, the best in Ireland, and very pretty links they are, even for a sane man or woman to travel over. For the golfer, it seems, they are a paradise — but a paradise which contains a Purgatory — that is the name they give to one famous bunker which, upon a day of golfing, is full of gnashing of teeth. Outside the links, close in to the pleasantlooking beach, lie the Skerries, a range of rocky islets ; and along the road which passes the links runs the electric tramway to the Giant's Causeway, a way paved with contention. The low rail along which runs the electric current — conveyed to the machinery of the cars by a contact with brushes which rub its surface — is exposed by the roadside : and according to the neighbourhood has been the cause of fatal accidents to man and beast. According to the supporters of the company, it was the practice of the natives if they possessed a horse or cow in articulo mortis, to take it and place it leaning against the electric rail ; not in hope to galvanise the moribund, but in order that it might die there and compensation be exacted from the company. On which side the truth lay I have never discovered, but in the meanwhile it will be just as well not to sit on this rail.

    You will follow the line of this tramway from Portrush — and at the time when I travelled the road a very bad line I found it — and sweeping round the point you come in full view of the White Rocks and Dunluce. The White Rocks are a range of chalk cliffs ranging from fifty to a hundred and fifty feet in height in a semicircle around the bay : in front of them is the bright sand with its border of breaking waves, which on most

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 155

    As the companion tells it

    Portrush is a prosperous little haven on what is otherwise a very harbourless coast. Golf has done the place a good turn. The links here are accounted, on the whole, the best in Ireland, and very pretty links they are, even for a sane man or woman to travel over. For the golfer, it seems, they are a paradise, but a paradise which contains a Purgatory. That is the name they give to one famous bunker, which upon a day of golfing is full of gnashing of teeth. Outside the links, close in to the pleasant-looking beach, lie the Skerries, a range of rocky islets. Along the road which passes the links runs the electric tramway to the Giant's Causeway, a way paved with contention. The low rail carrying the electric current is exposed by the roadside, and according to the neighbourhood has been the cause of fatal accidents to man and beast. The supporters of the company claimed it was the practice of the natives, if they possessed a horse or cow in its dying hours, to take it and place it leaning against the electric rail. Not in hope to galvanise the dying animal, but in order that it might die there and compensation be exacted from the company. On which side the truth lay the writer never discovered, but he adds that in the meanwhile it will be just as well not to sit on this rail. You follow the line of this tramway from Portrush, and sweeping round the point you come in full view of the White Rocks and Dunluce. The White Rocks are a range of chalk cliffs from fifty to a hundred and fifty feet in height, in a semicircle around the bay.

30. Powder magazine explosion destroys Derry fort

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1588

    In 1588 an explosion of a powder magazine shattered the entire fort at Derry and reduced the Black Abbey and Tempul Mor Church to ruins. The English had held the place since Sir Henry Sidney's campaign against Shane O'Neill.

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    general assembly of the clergy of Ireland, held in Meath, decreed that Flaherty Bradley, the coarb of St. Columbkille, should be supreme over all the abbots in Ireland, and three years later his chief, O'Loughlin, exacted tribute for him from them. In the next year the king and the abbot built a cashel, or circular wall, round the Abbey and set up the Tempul Mor or Great Church, which gives its name to the parish — for Derry Cathedral is also a parish church. Derry had need for fortifications, since, in 1 1 64, part of the town was again burnt. Three years later came Strongbow's invasion. But the English did not reach Derry till 1195, when they plundered the Abbey but were roughly handled in their retreat. Then came a period of anarchy, for the invasion had shaken the power of the native chiefs, and fire and sword raged everywhere. Six times in the next twenty-seven years Derry was either plundered or burnt ; the only satisfaction for the monkish chroniclers was to chronicle the miraculous fact that the plunderers, as a rule, met a violent death within twelve months. The miracle would have been their escaping it, so common was slaying in those days. Gradually, however, the first and partial conquest of Ulster established some show of order, and in 131 1 Derry was granted by Edward II. to Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, whose fortress still stands at Greencastle. The town was happy enough to have dull annals for the next two centuries, till the outbreak of Shane O'Neill. When Sir Henry Sidney marched against that redoubtable warrior, he sent seven companies of foot and a troop of horse by sea to Derry, to establish a fort in the rear of the enemy. The place was held for the English till 1588, when the explosion of a powder magazine shattered the whole fort and reduced the " Black Abbey and Tempul Mor Church " to ruins.

    The present cathedral does not occupy the site of either of these churches. They lay outside the walls of the English city, where a large Roman Catholic church now stands, approached by a lane called " Long Town "—a memorial of the Round

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 140

    As the companion tells it

    Derry has seen fire and plunder more times than any place should. The English first reached this place in 1195, when they plundered the Abbey but were roughly handled in their retreat. What followed was a time of anarchy, fire and sword everywhere. Six times in the next twenty-seven years the town was either plundered or burnt. The monkish chroniclers found one consolation, that the plunderers, as a rule, met a violent death within twelve months. The miracle would have been their escaping it, so common was slaying in those days. Gradually the first and partial conquest of Ulster brought some show of order, and the town had dull annals for two centuries. Then came the outbreak of Shane O'Neill. Sir Henry Sidney marched against that redoubtable warrior and sent seven companies of foot and a troop of horse by sea to establish a fort in the rear of the enemy. The place was held for the English till 1588, when the explosion of a powder magazine shattered the whole fort and reduced the Black Abbey and Tempul Mor Church to ruins. The present cathedral does not occupy the site of either of those churches. They lay outside the walls of the English city, where a large Roman Catholic church now stands, approached by a lane called Long Town, a memorial of the Round.

31. Roaring Meg and the walls of Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1689

    The walls of Derry feature a walk along the top wide enough, locals claim, for a carriage and pair. Siege guns remain mounted on the walls, including one named Roaring Meg for the loudness of its report.

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    the days when two guns were posted on its roof (then flat), to answer the fire of Hamilton's army ; but, as Macaulay observes, " it is filled with memorials of the siege." Over the altar are draped captured French colours, with their silk indeed renewed, but the poles and tassels were wrested from the hands of besiegers ; in the vestibule is a huge shell that was flung into the town, containing conditions of surrender. But the main feature of the town is its wall, on whose top a walk runs, wide enough in places, the inhabitants will tell you, for a carriage and pair to drive along it. On the wall are still mounted the guns that were fought in the siege ; one of them retains its name to this day, Roaring Meg, given from the loudness of its report. And on the west side of the wall rises a column, ninety feet high, topped by a statue of Walker, to whom history (in the person of Macaulay) has given the chief credit for the famous defence.

    Close to the cathedral is the central square of the city, " the Diamond," from which the streets fall sharply away north, east, and south. Here are gathered the principal public buildings, which, however, have little interest for a stranger. In the centre of the Diamond stands the Corporation Hall, now changed to other uses, which replaced the original wooden one knocked to pieces by the bombardment. The street running west leads to Bishopsgate, a triumphal arch erected in 1789 to commemorate the raising of the siege. On the north side of this street is the palace, a huge red-brick building, constructed by the Earl of Bristol, and more suitable for a prelate whose revenues reached ^£12,000 a year than for the modest salary with which a disestablished church rewards its divines. The cathedral has been modernised, and nothing in the town, except the wralls, speaks even of a moderate antiquity, much less of a Celtic origin ; yet Derry, unlike Belfast, has a history stretching far back into the past.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 138

    As the companion tells it

    Derry is a city whose walls still carry the marks of 1689. The wall has a walk along its top, and the inhabitants will tell you it is wide enough in places for a carriage and pair to drive along it. On the wall are still mounted the guns that were fought in the siege. One of them keeps its name to this day, Roaring Meg, given from the loudness of its report. The town is filled with memorials of the siege. Over the altar in the cathedral are draped captured French colours. The silk has been renewed, but the poles and tassels were wrested from the hands of besiegers. In the vestibule is a huge shell that was flung into the town, containing conditions of surrender. On the west side of the wall rises a column ninety feet high, topped by a statue of Walker, to whom history has given the chief credit for the famous defence. Close to the cathedral is the central square of the city, the Diamond, from which the streets fall sharply away north, east, and south. In the centre of the Diamond stands the Corporation Hall, which replaced the original wooden one knocked to pieces by the bombardment. The street running west leads to Bishopsgate, a triumphal arch erected in 1789 to commemorate the raising of the siege. On the north side of that street is the palace, a huge red-brick building constructed by the Earl of Bristol. The cathedral has been modernised, and nothing in the town except the walls speaks of even a moderate antiquity, much less of a Celtic origin. Yet Derry, unlike Belfast, has a history stretching far back into the past.

32. Rundale land tenure system in Donegal

    Donegal · town · Donegal

    The rundale system of land tenure in Donegal let land in scattered shares rather than compact blocks, with tenant-right infinitely subdivided. Land was measured not by the acre but by 'a cow's grass,' further divided into 'cow's foot' and 'cleet,' producing endless disputes and rudimentary agriculture.

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    The first step, however, necessary to any improvement in the way of living among the tenantry was the abolition of a system of land tenure known as rundale. This reform, it is only fair to observe, was carried out not only by Lord George Hill — perhaps the best landlord who has lived in that county — but also by the third Lord Leitrim, who was, not less probably, the worst. Under the old pernicious system land was let, not in compact blocks, but by shares in so many fields. The good-will, or tenant-right, was transmitted by gift, sale, or will, and infinitely subdivided. Lord George quotes an instance where a field of half-an-acre had twenty-six holdings in it ; and of a man whose tiny farm existed in thirty-two separate pieces. Houses were not built on the farms but in groups, for the people are extraordinarily gregarious, and love to sit up by night — for turf costs nothing — gossiping over the fire. When the new system was introduced and the dwellings separated, one man complained he was a heavy loser, for now he had to pay a servant girl to keep his wife company. Further to complicate this extraordinary tangle, there was the system of letting or devising, or selling, not by the acre, but by a cow's grass. Thus a man would leave his son " one cow's grass M in a certain field, the extent of ground being fixed by its quality. There was a further subdivision into fourths of a cow's grass, each known as one cowr's foot ; and even this was halved again into the unit one cleet, which is half a " foot " and one-eighth of a cow's grass. The result of this joint tenure was that, in the Irish phrase, " Everybody's business was nobody's business." Nobody would manure for his neighbour's benefit; nobody would sow turnips or clover, as his neighbour's sheep would

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    Donegal town sits in a county where, for generations, land was held under a system called rundale. Instead of one compact farm, a tenant's ground might be scattered across many fields in small shares. Lord George Hill, called perhaps the best landlord in the county, and the third Lord Leitrim, called the worst, both set about abolishing it. He quoted a case of a half-acre field with 26 separate holdings in it, and a man whose tiny farm lay in 32 separate pieces. People built their houses in clusters, not on the land, because they were extraordinarily gregarious and loved to sit up at night gossiping over the fire, since turf cost nothing. When the new system separated the dwellings, one man complained he was a heavy loser, because now he had to pay a servant girl to keep his wife company. Land was not measured by the acre but by a cow's grass, the extent fixed by the quality of the ground. A man might leave his son one cow's grass in a certain field. That was divided into fourths, each called a cow's foot, and halved again into a unit called a cleet, half a foot and one-eighth of a cow's grass. The result of this joint tenure was, in the Irish phrase, everybody's business was nobody's business. Nobody would manure the ground for his neighbour's benefit, and nobody would sow turnips or clover where a neighbour's sheep would eat them.

33. The Cathach relic kept at Ballymagroarty

    near Ballymagrorty · population centre · Derry

    The Cathach of St. Columba was the chief relic of the O'Donnells in the territory of Kinel Conall Gulban. It was officially kept by the MacRobhartaigh (MacGrorty) family of Ballymagroarty.

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    The relic was officially kept by the MacRobhartaigh (MacGrorty) of Bally magroarty. After the plantation of Ulster there was no one who could claim to represent the O'Donnells. But, about 1700, the Cathach was in the keeping of an O'Donnell whose career is typical of the fortunes of the old Celtic nobles. Daniel O'Donnell was born in 1666, and at the age of twenty-two held a commission under James II. After the Treaty of Limerick he was one of the thousands who went to recruit the Irish brigade, and fought in Germany, Italy, and the Low Countries ; commanded the regiment of O'Donnell at Malplaquet, and in the siege operations that followed it, and finally earned his rank as brigadier-general. From that day to this it would be hard to count the O'Donnells who have risen to distinction in almost every service but the English.

    Daniel O'Donnell guarded the Cathach carefully, but at last thought better to leave it in the custody of a Belgian monastery — probably the Irish convent at Louvain. He left instructions that it should be given up to whoever could prove himself to be the chief of the O'Donnells. There it remained till in this century an Irish abbot thought it should go back to Tyrconnell, and restored it to the O'Donnells of Newport, in

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ballymagroarty, this is the place once tied to one of Ireland's great relics. The Cathach of Saint Columba was the chief relic of the O'Donnells in the territory of Kinel Conall Gulban, and it was officially kept by the MacRobhartaigh, or MacGrorty, family of Ballymagroarty. After the plantation of Ulster, there was no one who could claim to represent the O'Donnells. But about 1700, the Cathach was in the keeping of an O'Donnell whose career is typical of the fortunes of the old Celtic nobles. Daniel O'Donnell was born in 1666, and at the age of 22 held a commission under James II. After the Treaty of Limerick he was one of the thousands who went to recruit the Irish brigade, and fought in Germany, Italy, and the Low Countries. He commanded the regiment of O'Donnell at Malplaquet, and in the siege operations that followed it, and finally earned his rank as brigadier-general. Daniel O'Donnell guarded the Cathach carefully, but at last thought better to leave it in the custody of a Belgian monastery, probably the Irish convent at Louvain. He left instructions that it should be given up to whoever could prove himself to be the chief of the O'Donnells. There it remained until an Irish abbot thought it should go back to Tyrconnell, and restored it to the O'Donnells of Newport.

34. The Fairy Thorn near Cushendun

    Cushendun · townland · Antrim

    A single thorn tree standing in a hedge near Cushendun is considered a fairy thorn, and locals refuse to cut it down for fear of ill luck. When a branch broke off in a storm, it was difficult to find anyone willing to remove the debris.

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    in the green turf among the whins; but on Sundays you will always see folk sitting there and chatting as they look out over the bay. It is a strange place to forgather in, for that is where they bring children who have died before they were christened; the Roman church, with its terrible logic, allows them no room in consecrated ground. A little further down, perhaps fifty yards before you reach the end of the plantation, stands a single thorn tree in the hedge on the right of the road. That is a fairy thorn, and there is probably not a man in Cushendun who would lay axe to it. Some years ago a great branch broke off it in a storm and lay across the road ; and it was hard to find hands in the parish who would consent to remove the wreck of it. There was ill luck for any one that so much as moved a twig of the good people's thorn tree.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 177

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stands a single thorn tree in a hedge, and that is a fairy thorn. There is probably not a man in Cushendun who would lay axe to it. Some years ago a great branch broke off in a storm and lay across the road. It was hard to find hands in the parish who would consent to remove the wreck of it. There was ill luck for any one that so much as moved a twig of the good people's thorn tree. In the green turf among the whins, folk gather on Sundays, sitting and chatting as they look out over the bay. It is a strange place to forgather in, for that is where they bring children who have died before they were christened. The Roman church, with its terrible logic, allows them no room in consecrated ground.

35. Cahir's head displayed on Derry's New Gate

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1608

    After Sir Cahir O'Dogherty was killed at Doon Rock, his head was cut off for the thousand-pound bounty and ultimately set on a pole of the East Gate, called New Gate, in Derry. His body was quartered between Derry and Culmore.

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    But Sir Arthur Chichester, the Lord-Deputy, sent out hotfoot after him, and on July 5th one of the divisions advanced by way of Kilmacrenan, and Sir Cahir made his stand by Doon Rock. He was a conspicuous figure, of remarkable height, and distinguished by a great Spanish hat with nodding plumes ; so it is no wonder that a bullet in the first volley reached his brain. His head was cut off, for there was a thousand pounds set on it in Dublin Castle ; and the story is, that the man who got it set out to travel alone with his burden, but slept the night under the roof of an O'Dogherty, who looked into the bundle, recognised the head, and determined at least to keep the profit in the clan. The original captor only reached Dublin in time to ascertain that the price had been paid some hours before. Whoever got the money, the head reached its destination ; Sir Cahir's head was " set on a pole of the East Gate, called New Gate, and his body was quartered between Derry and Culmore." Phelim McDevitt, his chief supporter, was not long after betrayed to the English, who hanged him at LifTord. All this materially assisted the settlement of Ulster ; indeed, it is probable that when Faulet laid his horsewhip on the Irish chief whom Docwra had knighted, he had a shrewd vision of confiscated lands in case of any outbreak. If so, the forecast was a good one, though it happened to benefit, not Paulet, but the Lord-Deputy, Sir Arthur Chichester, to whom the whole peninsula of Inishowen was assigned after Cahir's forfeiture. Such was the last incident of any note in that pacifying of Ireland, a process which is wholly forgotten by those who owe to it their estates, but which the descendants of those who were despoiled remember with a resentment perfectly unintelligible to the winners.

    When leaving Doon Rock, you get back on the main road which you left for the Causeway, keep straight along to the left, and it will take you back to Gartan, but there is a hill on it too steep to ride down. You will sight Gartan lake before

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    In this city of Derry, in 1608, Sir Cahir O'Dogherty's head was set on a pole of the East Gate, called New Gate. His body was quartered between Derry and Culmore. It was the end of a short, violent chase. Sir Arthur Chichester, the Lord-Deputy, had sent out his forces after Cahir, and on July 5th one division advanced by way of Kilmacrenan. Cahir made his stand at Doon Rock. He was a man of remarkable height, conspicuous on the field, marked out by a great Spanish hat with nodding plumes. A bullet in the first volley reached his brain. His head was worth a thousand pounds, a price set on it in Dublin Castle. The man who cut it off set out to travel alone with his burden, but slept one night under the roof of an O'Dogherty. That host looked into the bundle, recognised the head, and determined at least to keep the profit within the clan. The original captor reached Dublin only to find the price had already been paid, some hours before. Whoever collected the money, the head reached its destination here in Derry. Cahir's chief supporter, Phelim McDevitt, was not long after betrayed to the English, who hanged him at Lifford. All of this materially assisted the settlement of Ulster. When Paulet laid his horsewhip on the Irish chief whom Docwra had knighted, he may well have had a shrewd vision of confiscated lands in case of any outbreak. The forecast was a good one, though it benefited not Paulet but the Lord-Deputy, Sir Arthur Chichester, to whom the whole peninsula of Inishowen was assigned after Cahir's forfeiture. It was the last incident of any note in the pacifying of Ireland, a process forgotten by those who owe their estates to it, but remembered by the descendants of those who were dispossessed with a resentment the winners find perfectly unintelligible.

36. Kirke's fleet idle at Lough Foyle

    near Lough Foyle · estuary · Derry · 1689

    On June 13th, a fleet under Kirke appeared in Lough Foyle below Culmore, but intimidated by batteries and channel difficulties, he lay in sight of the walls for six weeks without attempting to break the boom.

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    The siege was now turned into a bombardment, and a quantity of heavy shells, weighing 275 pounds, were thrown into the city, causing much loss of life. Food also began to run short, so that there was great joy when, on June 13th, a fleet was seen in the Lough below Culmore. Kirke, a soldier of infamous reputation for cruelty, was in command ; and he showed no redeeming qualities on this occasion. According to Mackenzie's account, the boom was constructed only after his appearance in the Lough ; and in any case it was his plain duty to risk a ship or two in the effort to break it. But the batteries on Culmore and the difficulties of the channel intimidated him, and he lay in the mouth of Lough Foyle in sight of the walls for full six weeks. Meantime lead was giving out and the guns fired brick with a lead coating : while food grew daily scarcer. James, impatient of the obstacle, sent down Von Rosen, a soldier who had acquired the methods of war by which Louis XIV. subdued the Palatinate. An assault upon the walls at Butcher's Gate, led by Lord Clancarty, was attempted, and repulsed with severe loss. Then Von Rosen resorted to moral suasion. He drove in all the Protestants for ten miles round, mostly women and children, and hunted them at the sword-point under the walls j sending in a message to the town that all the unfortunates should be kept there to die of hunger and cold unless the besieged surrendered. The reply was the erection of a gallows on the walls and a message that all prisoners — of whom several were of rank and position — would be hanged by way of retaliation. Fortunately Hamilton was not a barbarian, like Von Rosen, and matters were not pushed to an extremity ; though the unfortunate people, most

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 147

    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Foyle, where in 1689 a fleet under Kirke appeared on June 13th, seen in the lough below Culmore. The city was under bombardment, heavy shells weighing 275 pounds thrown into it, and food had begun to run short, so there was great joy when the fleet was sighted. Kirke was a soldier of infamous reputation for cruelty, and he showed no redeeming qualities on this occasion. According to Mackenzie's account, the boom across the lough was constructed only after his appearance, and it was his plain duty to risk a ship or two in the effort to break it. But the batteries on Culmore and the difficulties of the channel intimidated him, and he lay in the mouth of the lough, in sight of the walls, for full six weeks. Meantime, inside the walls, lead was giving out, and the guns fired brick with a lead coating, while food grew daily scarcer. James, impatient of the obstacle, sent down Von Rosen, a soldier who had acquired the methods of war by which Louis the Fourteenth subdued the Palatinate. An assault upon the walls at Butcher's Gate, led by Lord Clancarty, was attempted and repulsed with severe loss. Then Von Rosen resorted to moral suasion. He drove in all the Protestants for ten miles round, mostly women and children, and hunted them at the sword-point under the walls, sending in a message that all the unfortunates should be kept there to die of hunger and cold unless the besieged surrendered. The reply was the erection of a gallows on the walls and a message that all prisoners, of whom several were of rank and position, would be hanged by way of retaliation. Fortunately Hamilton was not a barbarian like Von Rosen, and matters were not pushed to an extremity.

37. Bunbeg harbour and Lord George Hill's inscription

    Bunbeg · town · Donegal

    Bunbeg harbour is described as a picturesque saltwater lake enclosed by high rocks, entered through a narrow cleft. Over the harbourmaster's office, Lord George Hill placed an inscription from Proverbs in Irish about just weights, which locals could speak but not read in Irish character.

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    From Gweedore to Bunbeg it is an easy four miles of fairly good road; on the left you have the Clady River, with its succession of delightful swirling streams and pools. The harbour of Bunbeg is singularly picturesque ; a little lake of salt water shut in by high rocks on all sides, and entered by the narrowest cleft that it would seem possible to get a goodsized vessel through. Over the harbourmaster's office you will trace Lord George Hill's hand in the inscription from Proverbs, set up there in Irish, " A just weight is a pleasure to the Lord,

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 95

    As the companion tells it

    Bunbeg in Donegal has a harbour that is a saltwater lake, shut in by high rocks on all sides, entered through the narrowest cleft that it would seem possible to get a good-sized vessel through. Over the harbourmaster's office, Lord George Hill set up an inscription from Proverbs in Irish: "A just weight is a pleasure to the Lord." The people here could speak Irish but could not read the Irish character.

38. Coleraine whisky renown

    near Coleraine · town · Derry

    Coleraine was once famous for its whisky, regarded even by a Donegal priest as the best. A student reportedly took a gallon jar of Coleraine whisky to Cambridge, converting the entire college to the spirit and sparking sudden demand.

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    You will have to go up as far as Coleraine to cross the Bann, and it is worth going up into the town for a very beautiful view inland up the course of the river. Coleraine is itself one of the main centres of what Roman Catholics call the Black North — a great Presbyterian stronghold. The Scotch element in these northern places preserves a number of valuable traditions — one is of skill in baking. Deny, and still more Coleraine, abound in all sorts of fancy bread, excellent in quality, and far superior to any that can be got in Dublin. Local usages run strong in these places, and receipts are handed down in their integrity from father to son, from mother to daughter. So by all means stop for lunch in Coleraine and explore the pastry-cook's in the Diamond. Another famous product of Coleraine used to be its whisky, and I can well remember in Donegal to have heard the priest of our parish come up to my

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 152

    As the companion tells it

    Coleraine was a great Presbyterian stronghold, one of the main centres of what Roman Catholics called the Black North. The Scotch element in these northern places preserved a number of valuable traditions. The town abounded in all sorts of fancy bread, excellent in quality, far superior to anything that could be got in Dublin. Local usages ran strong, and recipes were handed down in their integrity from father to son, from mother to daughter. The pastry-cook's in the Diamond was worth exploring. But another famous product of Coleraine used to be its whisky. In Donegal, the priest of the parish once declared Coleraine whisky the best there was. The story goes that a student carried a gallon jar of it to Cambridge, and the whole college took to the spirit, demand springing up at once.

39. Enniskillen reduced by Hugh Maguire under O'Donnell

    near Enniskillen · town · Fermanagh · 1594

    In 1594, Enniskillen was reduced by Hugh Maguire, chief of Fermanagh, acting under O'Donnell's orders. This was part of the coordinated campaign by O'Neill and O'Donnell who were now virtually lords of all Ulster and plotting to obtain Spanish aid and revolt from England.

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    nobles of Tyrconnell, both lay and ecclesiastical." Had descent, not election, decided these matters, after the English law, the chief of the O'Donnells would have been Neil Garv O'Donnell (Neil the Fierce), son of Con O'Donnell, who was son of Calvagh. As it was, Neil counted that he was the better man, and made no secret of his spleen. But, at first, he fought right well under his cousin, and his cousin was the very man to keep him busy. Hugh Roe's first act was to raid the territories of Turlough Lynach O'Neill, the man who claimed to succeed to Shane's position, and lived at Strabane. There Red Hugh made — by Tyrone's advice — formal submission to Government. But he and Tyrone were already plotting to obtain Spanish aid and revolt from England. By O'Donnell's repeated attacks, Turlough Lynach was obliged to resign his title of the O'Neill, which was then assumed by the Earl of Tyrone : a first sign of disaffection, as Tyrone had pledged himself not to bear it. The O'Donnell and the O'Neill were now virtually lords of all Ulster. In 1594, Enniskillen was reduced by Hugh Maguire, chief of Fermanagh, acting under O'Donnell's orders. In 1 595, Red Hugh attempted to drive the English out of Connaught, but their occupation of that province had been for a long time effective, and they held fortresses all through it. He raided the country, however, unopposed, and when his enemies waited for him in the passes from Connaught into Tyrconnell, turned to the east, and carried fire and sword into the Pale. War was now definitely levied against the Earls j and by way of reprisal, George Bingham, son of Sir Richard Bingham, Governor of Connaught, sailed round the Swilly, and plundered the Carmelite Abbey at Rathmullen. It seemed to them worth while even to make a descent upon Tory — not for any riches of the inhabitants, but for the spoils of Columbkille's church there, and there "they preyed and plundered everything they found on the island." Meanwhile, however, O'Neill and O'Donnell had driven back Sir John Norris's army, O'Neill, it is said, killing in single combat a huge soldier, Segrave of Meath ; and George Bingham, say the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 121

    As the companion tells it

    Enniskillen, in Fermanagh, was reduced in 1594 by Hugh Maguire, chief of Fermanagh, acting under O'Donnell's orders. By that year, O'Neill and O'Donnell were virtually lords of all Ulster, and they had been plotting to obtain Spanish aid and revolt from England. Red Hugh O'Donnell had made a formal submission to Government at Strabane, by Tyrone's advice. But he and Tyrone were already plotting rebellion. Red Hugh's first act had been to raid the territories of Turlough Lynach O'Neill, the man who claimed to succeed to Shane's position and lived at Strabane. By O'Donnell's repeated attacks, Turlough Lynach was obliged to resign his title of the O'Neill. The title was then assumed by the Earl of Tyrone, a first sign of disaffection, since Tyrone had pledged himself not to bear it. There was also trouble over the chieftaincy in Tyrconnell. Had descent, not election, decided the matter under English law, the chief of the O'Donnells would have been Neil Garv O'Donnell, son of Con O'Donnell, who was son of Calvagh. Neil counted that he was the better man and made no secret of his spleen. But at first he fought well under his cousin Red Hugh, and Red Hugh was the very man to keep him busy. So Hugh Maguire's reduction of Enniskillen was no isolated raid. It was part of a coordinated campaign by O'Neill and O'Donnell, who held nearly all Ulster and were reaching for Spanish help to break from England entirely.

40. Fire at Gartan Rectory during Adair's visit

    Bellville or Gartan · townland · Donegal

    When Mr. Adair called at Gartan Rectory one day, an outhouse caught fire. Despite the Rector's known sympathy with the tenants, Adair insisted it was an attempt to burn the Rectory with him in it, further inflaming tensions in the neighbourhood.

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    Accusations were freely brought against the tenants and presentments sent in by the grand jury, which raised a levy on the district for compensation, the sheep being rated at a handsome value. The result was a great embittering of the relations between landlord and tenant, which was particularly acute on the Glen Veagh estate. The unfortunate tenants saw their goods distrained to pay for sheep which, in many instances, at all events, had died of exposure to the weather. The magistrates sitting at Church Hill passed a unanimous resolution to the effect that the losses which Mr. Adair charged on malice were due to natural causes. By this time there was a very strong feeling in the countryside that Mr. Adair with all his money and all his beneficent intentions was rapidly turning a peaceable neighbourhood into a hornets' nest. Nothing, however, would convince him but that the people were banded together to do him injury. As he was calling at Gartan Rectory one day, an outhouse took fire, and though the Rector was conspicuous for his sympathy with the tenants, Mr. Adair would have it that an attempt had been made to burn the Rectory and him in it. Finally on November the 13th his manager was found dead on Deny Beagh mountain : no evidence was forthcoming. Mr. Adair determined, under the guidance of a strong sense of duty, to make a great example of this pestilent community. Accordingly in the spring of the year he served ejectment notices on every tenant in Deny Beagh. Matters were serious now and every effort was used to stop so dreadful a measure as to exile a community of several hundred souls not only from their homes but in many cases from their only available means of livelihood. But Mr. Adair was inflexible. The sub-sheriff of the county demanded an escort of 200 police and troops as well. The soldiers were sent down from Dublin, taking tents with them, as if for a campaign ; and the rendezvous was fixed at Lough Barra for April 7th. On April 8th the whole force moved on to its work, and a matter of three days was spent in the task of dragging men and women out of

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 59

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Bellville or Gartan, there was a rectory where a fire broke out under circumstances that only deepened the trouble in this part of Donegal. The trouble had been building for some time. Accusations were freely brought against the tenants, and presentments were sent in by the grand jury, which raised a levy on the district for compensation, the sheep being rated at a handsome value. This greatly embittered the relations between landlord and tenant, and the feeling was particularly acute on the Glen Veagh estate. Tenants saw their goods distrained to pay for sheep which, in many instances at least, had died of exposure to the weather. The magistrates sitting at Church Hill passed a unanimous resolution that the losses Mr. Adair charged on malice were due to natural causes. By this time there was a very strong feeling in the countryside that Mr. Adair, with all his money and all his beneficent intentions, was rapidly turning a peaceable neighbourhood into a hornets' nest. Nothing, however, would convince him but that the people were banded together to do him injury. As he was calling at Gartan Rectory one day, an outhouse took fire, and though the Rector was conspicuous for his sympathy with the tenants, Mr. Adair would have it that an attempt had been made to burn the Rectory and him in it. Finally, on November the 13th, his manager was found dead on Derry Beagh mountain. No evidence was forthcoming. Mr. Adair determined, under the guidance of a strong sense of duty, to make a great example of this pestilent community. In the spring he served ejectment notices on every tenant in Derry Beagh. Every effort was used to stop so dreadful a measure as to exile a community of several hundred souls, but Mr. Adair was inflexible.

41. Giant's Causeway: basalt amphitheatre and caves

    near Giant's Causeway · population centre · Antrim

    The Giant's Causeway is described as a natural wonder of basalt columns resembling organ pipes in a great amphitheatre bay, with long tunnel caves. The site was enclosed by a company charging sixpence admission, an innovation started Easter Monday of the year of writing, which the author resents as a tourist-ridden commercialization.

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    At the Causeway you will find two monstrous, ugly hotels, which, being on the landward slope, do not affect the scenery : and you had best put up at one of these if you have come from Colerame and seen Dunluce. The Causeway should be seen by boat and by land also ; but especially by boat. A guide is inevitable, and he is also necessary to keep at arm's length the people who want to sell things. The guides are licensed, and have a printed tariff of charges : for a matter of three shillings you can get the most amazing deal of patter. For my own part, I decline to compete with their eloquence. You will have to hear a minute description of the Causeway, so why read one ? Even geological theories you can get from them much better than from me. All I have to say is, that if one had discovered the Causeway somewhere in the South Pacific or in the neighbourhood of Iceland, one would have something to talk of for the rest of one's life : but as it is, everybody knows photographs of the place, and it is just like the photographs. But, when all is said, it is a very queer freak. From the picturesque point of view the best things are the caves, long tunnels not less beautiful than that under Dunluce, and the great amphitheatre bay, with the basalt columns showing in the face of the cliff like organ pipes. But for picturesqueness the Causeway cannot compare with Fmnluce, with its view of the White Rocks, and it is tourist-ridden with a vengeance. Besides, a company has enclosed it with a railing, and makes visitors pay sixpence for admission — an innovation started on Easter Monday of this year, which every good Irishman resents.

    If you are staying at the hotel, you should by all means walk round the cliffs which fringe the amphitheatre. Passing Seagull Island you come upon what is called Port-na-Spania (Spaniards' Bay), where the Gtrana under Don Alonzo de Leyva, was lost.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 162

    As the companion tells it

    Near Giant's Causeway, the road brings you to one of the most famous sights in Antrim. The great amphitheatre bay holds basalt columns showing in the face of the cliff like organ pipes, and there are long tunnel caves as beautiful as the one under Dunluce. The whole thing is a very queer freak of nature, though as the author notes, everybody knows photographs of the place, and it is just like the photographs. The best way to see it is by boat, and by land also, but especially by boat. Two monstrous, ugly hotels stand on the landward slope, where they do not affect the scenery. A guide is inevitable, and necessary to keep at arm's length the people who want to sell things. The guides are licensed, with a printed tariff of charges. For 3 shillings you get the most amazing deal of patter, and you will hear a minute description of the place from them. But the author resents what has happened here. A company has enclosed the Causeway with a railing and makes visitors pay sixpence for admission, an innovation started on Easter Monday of the year of writing. The author says every good Irishman resents it. The place is tourist-ridden with a vengeance, and for picturesqueness it cannot compare with Dunluce, with its view of the White Rocks. If you are staying at the hotel, you should walk round the cliffs which fringe the amphitheatre. Passing Seagull Island you come upon Port-na-Spania, Spaniards' Bay, where the Girona under Don Alonzo de Leyva was lost.

42. Naval action near Tory Island ending Wolfe Tone's career

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal · 1796

    Within sight of Tory Island, a lesser naval action of the Napoleonic Wars was fought, ending the career of Theobald Wolfe Tone. Tone had arranged the French expedition of December 1796 under Hoche, which was scattered by weather before reaching Bantry Bay.

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    Within sight of Tory Island was fought one of the many lesser actions of the great Napoleonic Wars ; but it gains a certain importance from the fact that it ended the career of the Irish rebel who did most to endanger England's supremacy in his country. Theobald Wolfe Tone, a young man of great talent and good education, was the agent of the United Irishmen in France, where he arrived in February, 1796. Within a few weeks he had entirely gained the ear of Hoche, then at the height of his reputation and burning with ambition. The result was first the expedition of December, 1 796, when a fleet of fortythree sail got clear out of Brest with 15,000 men on board, Hoche commanding ; they were scattered by weather, but thirty sail reached Cape Clear on December 21st. Hoche's vessel was missing, and Grouchy, his second in command, waited for him; but finally resolved to land, and was instantly prevented by weather from entering Bantry Bay, and at last driven off the coast by a tremendous storm. Tone came back disap-

    XI

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 104

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Tory Island, a naval action of the Napoleonic Wars was fought, and it matters because it ended the career of the Irish rebel who did most to endanger England's supremacy in his country. Theobald Wolfe Tone was a young man of great talent and good education. He became the agent of the United Irishmen in France, arriving there in February 1796. Within a few weeks he had gained the ear of Hoche, who was then at the height of his reputation and burning with ambition. The result was the expedition of December 1796. A fleet of 43 sail got clear out of Brest with 15,000 men on board, Hoche commanding. They were scattered by weather, but 30 sail reached Cape Clear on December 21. Hoche's vessel was missing. Grouchy, his second in command, waited for him, then finally resolved to land. He was instantly prevented by weather from entering Bantry Bay, and at last driven off the coast by a tremendous storm. Tone came back disappointed.

43. Patrick's chariot axle breaks at Cark mountain

    Cark · townland · Donegal · 450

    On top of Cark mountain overlooking the Swilly, at a ford of the river Deele near Convoy, the axle of Patrick's chariot broke twice. Patrick interpreted this as a sign that Columbkille would bless the land to the north, so he turned eastward.

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    centuries after the coming of St. Patrick, when the land fell into such a habit of restful peace that the Danish sea rovers found its sea boundary easy prey. But the special saint of Tyrconnell was the greatest of all Irish saints after Patrick, St. Columba. In about 450 a.d. Patrick, on his missionary journey, crossed the Erne from Carbery in Sligo, where Cairbre, one of Niall's sons, had received him roughly ; but on the north bank, after he had passed by Assaroe and ascended Mullaghnashee, he found Conall Gulban sitting in council in the palace that the fairies had built him. Conall came to Patrick for his blessing, but Patrick turned from him and laid his hand first on the head of Conall's son Fergus. " For," he said, " of his lineage will be born a youth that is Columbkille." Then after baptising Conall and his household, Patrick went through Barnesmore Gap and turned northwards, but when he was on the top of Cark mountain, overlooking the Swilly, at a ford of the river Deele, which runs through Convoy, the axle of his chariot broke and when mended broke again. Then Patrick knew the sign and bade his people not wonder, for the land north of that river had no need of him : for a son should be born there who should be called " The Dove of the Churches " — Columbkille — who should bless the land to the northward. So he turned away eastward and made his way to the Grianan on Aileach which looks upon the Foyle and Lough Swilly, and there baptised Eoghan the founder of the Kinel Eoghan, and first lord of Tyrone.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 61

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on the top of Cark mountain, overlooking the Swilly, the axle of Patrick's chariot broke. The year was about 450. Patrick was on his missionary journey, having crossed the Erne from Carbery in Sligo, where Cairbre, one of Niall's sons, had received him roughly. On the north bank, after he had passed by Assaroe and ascended Mullaghnashee, he found Conall Gulban sitting in council in the palace that the fairies had built him. Conall came to Patrick for his blessing, but Patrick turned from him and laid his hand first on the head of Conall's son Fergus. "For," he said, "of his lineage will be born a youth that is Columbkille." Then after baptising Conall and his household, Patrick went through Barnesmore Gap and turned northwards. He came to a ford of the river Deele, which runs through Convoy, and there the axle of his chariot broke. When it was mended, it broke again. Patrick knew the sign and bade his people not to wonder. The land north of that river had no need of him, for a son should be born there who should be called "The Dove of the Churches" — Columbkille — who should bless the land to the northward. So he turned away eastward and made his way to the Grianan on Aileach, which looks upon the Foyle and Lough Swilly, and there baptised Eoghan, the founder of the Kinel Eoghan and first lord of Tyrone.

44. Plunder of Columbkille's church on Tory Island

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal · 1595

    The English considered it worthwhile to make a descent upon Tory Island, not for any riches of the inhabitants but for the spoils of Columbkille's church there. They 'preyed and plundered everything they found on the island' as part of the campaign against O'Donnell.

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    nobles of Tyrconnell, both lay and ecclesiastical." Had descent, not election, decided these matters, after the English law, the chief of the O'Donnells would have been Neil Garv O'Donnell (Neil the Fierce), son of Con O'Donnell, who was son of Calvagh. As it was, Neil counted that he was the better man, and made no secret of his spleen. But, at first, he fought right well under his cousin, and his cousin was the very man to keep him busy. Hugh Roe's first act was to raid the territories of Turlough Lynach O'Neill, the man who claimed to succeed to Shane's position, and lived at Strabane. There Red Hugh made — by Tyrone's advice — formal submission to Government. But he and Tyrone were already plotting to obtain Spanish aid and revolt from England. By O'Donnell's repeated attacks, Turlough Lynach was obliged to resign his title of the O'Neill, which was then assumed by the Earl of Tyrone : a first sign of disaffection, as Tyrone had pledged himself not to bear it. The O'Donnell and the O'Neill were now virtually lords of all Ulster. In 1594, Enniskillen was reduced by Hugh Maguire, chief of Fermanagh, acting under O'Donnell's orders. In 1 595, Red Hugh attempted to drive the English out of Connaught, but their occupation of that province had been for a long time effective, and they held fortresses all through it. He raided the country, however, unopposed, and when his enemies waited for him in the passes from Connaught into Tyrconnell, turned to the east, and carried fire and sword into the Pale. War was now definitely levied against the Earls j and by way of reprisal, George Bingham, son of Sir Richard Bingham, Governor of Connaught, sailed round the Swilly, and plundered the Carmelite Abbey at Rathmullen. It seemed to them worth while even to make a descent upon Tory — not for any riches of the inhabitants, but for the spoils of Columbkille's church there, and there "they preyed and plundered everything they found on the island." Meanwhile, however, O'Neill and O'Donnell had driven back Sir John Norris's army, O'Neill, it is said, killing in single combat a huge soldier, Segrave of Meath ; and George Bingham, say the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 121

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Tory Island, off the Donegal coast, Columbkille's church stood until the summer of 1595. By then, war had broken out across Ulster. Red Hugh O'Donnell and the Earl of Tyrone held sway over virtually the whole province. O'Donnell had already struck at the Pale itself, carrying fire and sword through the countryside eastward, and the English were looking for ways to strike back. One of those reprisals fell here. George Bingham, son of Sir Richard Bingham, Governor of Connaught, had already sailed round Lough Swilly and plundered the Carmelite Abbey at Rathmullen. Then the English turned their attention to Tory. They did not come for anything the islanders themselves possessed. What drew them was the church of Columbkille, and the spoils to be taken from it. They landed, and in the words of the record, they preyed and plundered everything they found on the island. The church was stripped. Whatever Columbkille's foundation held, the soldiers carried off. This was 1595, and the wider war pressed on regardless. O'Neill and O'Donnell had driven back Sir John Norris's army. O'Neill himself, it was said, killed a huge soldier named Segrave of Meath in single combat. George Bingham's raid on Tory was a small part of a larger campaign against the earls, one blow among many exchanged that year across Ulster and beyond. The church on Tory never recovered what was taken.

45. Shamrocks in flower: a Lifford car-driver's tale

    Lifford · townland · Donegal

    A tourist driving near Lifford was struck by an intolerable stench and asked her driver about it. He told her it was 'just the shamrocks coming into flower,' when in fact the smell came from flax being steeped and dried in the fields. The lady believed the explanation and bore a lasting grudge against shamrocks.

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    One lady, whom a friend of mine met, began to talk to him of the north of Ireland, which she said was a delightful country in the early summer, but that it usually became insupportable to a stranger as soon as the shamrocks came into flower. This was naturally quite news to my friend and he inquired further. It appeared that she had been driving somewhere in the neighbourhood of Lifford and was struck by the universal prevalence of a most intolerable stench. After a while she made bold to mention it, but her driver promptly told her, " Sure, ma'am, that's just the shamrocks coming into flower." My friend recognised at once that this had happened when the flax was being steeped and dried on the fields, a process which used to make a good

    r

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a lady was once driving when she was struck by a most intolerable stench. After a while she made bold to mention it to her driver. He told her, "Sure, ma'am, that's just the shamrocks coming into flower." She believed him. She went on to tell a friend that the north of Ireland was delightful in early summer, but became insupportable as soon as the shamrocks came into flower. The driver had made it up. The smell was flax being steeped and dried on the fields, a process which used to make a good part of the countryside hard to bear. She never knew that, and carried a lasting grudge against shamrocks for something they never did.

46. Shane O'Neill's encampment at Balleeghan

    Balleeghan · townland · Donegal · 1557

    Shane O'Neill marched over the hill from Carricklea and encamped at Balleeghan in the parish of Raymochy, on the eastern slope towards Lough Swilly. Calvagh O'Donnell sent two spies who infiltrated the camp by night, observing O'Neill's gallowglasses and Scots guards.

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    Each of their fathers, Con Bocagh O'Ncil and Manus O'Donnell, had submitted so far as to accept the title of Earl from an English king, though Manus never received his patent of nobility, and each ruled by usurpation ; Calvagh had imprisoned Manus, and claimed to be the O'Donnell; Shane had raised a faction against his elder brother (whom he accused of being no son of Con's) the Baron of Dungannon. Yet, for all this affinity, no love was lost between them, and in 1557 Shane mustered a great army to march into Tyrconnell, and pitched his camp at Carricklea, in the angle made by the junction of the Finn and Mourne. Calvagh O'Donnell, by his father's advice, planned a surprise, and so when Shane marched over the hill and encamped at Balleeghan (in the parish of Raymochy), on the eastern slope towards Lough Swilly, Calvagh sent two spies into his camp. They went safely by night from fire to fire till they came to "the great central fire which was at the entrance of the son of O'Neill's tent; and a huge torch thicker than a man's body was constantly flaming at a short distance from the fire, and sixty grim and redoubtable gallowglasses, with sharp keen axes, terrible and ready for action, and sixty stern and terrible Scots, with massive broad and heavy striking swords in their hands to strike and parry, were watching and guarding the son of O'Neill. When the time came for the troops to dine, and food was divided and distributed among them, the two spies whom we have mentioned stretched out their hands to the distributor like the rest ; and that which fell to their share was a helmetful of meal and a suitable complement of butter. With this testimony of their adventure they returned to their own people, and upon their exhibition of it their entire narrative was believed."

    The last touch is an odd one ; but the whole description is so graphic that I have been tempted to quote it. Calvagh had with him only thirty horses and two companies of gallowglasses from MacSwiney Fanad — always the backbone of O'Donnell

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 77

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in 1557, Shane O'Neill encamped at Balleeghan, on the eastern slope towards Lough Swilly. His father, Con Bocagh O'Neill, and Calvagh O'Donnell's father, Manus O'Donnell, had each accepted the title of Earl from an English king, though Manus never received his patent. Each ruled by usurpation. Calvagh had imprisoned Manus and claimed to be the O'Donnell. Shane had raised a faction against his elder brother, the Baron of Dungannon, whom he accused of being no son of Con's. For all the affinity between the two houses, no love was lost. Shane mustered a great army to march into Tyrconnell and first pitched his camp at Carricklea, in the angle where the Finn and Mourne meet. Calvagh O'Donnell, by his father's advice, planned a surprise. When Shane marched over the hill and encamped in the parish of Raymochy, Calvagh sent two spies into his camp. They went safely by night from fire to fire until they came to what the source calls "the great central fire which was at the entrance of the son of O'Neill's tent." A huge torch, thicker than a man's body, flamed constantly nearby. Sixty grim gallowglasses with sharp keen axes stood ready, and sixty stern Scots with massive broad heavy striking swords watched and guarded O'Neill. When the time came for the troops to dine, food was divided among them. The two spies stretched out their hands to the distributor like the rest, and what fell to their share was "a helmetful of meal and a suitable complement of butter." With this testimony they returned to their own people, and their entire narrative was believed. Calvagh had with him only thirty horses and two companies of gallowglasses from MacSwiney Fanad, always the backbone of O'Donnell's strength.

47. Swift's prebend at Kilroot

    Kilroot · townland · Antrim

    The parish of Kilroot, near Ballycarry at the foot of Larne Lough, was Jonathan Swift's first prebend. He found the solitudes of Antrim wearisome after life in Temple's household and consoled himself by writing strange letters to Miss Waring, whom he called Varina.

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    Larne is a convenient place for English tourists to end their tour, as the mail steamers to Stranraer gives them a short and pretty crossing, with very few miles of open sea. But if you are not tired of your machine you may take another day to ride the remaining twenty-four miles along the coast road to Belfast. The road passes, at Ballycarry, near the foot of Larne Lough, the parish of Kilroot, Swift's first prebend, where that formidable genius first experienced the bondage of his cloth. The solitudes of Antrim had little charm for him after his life in Temple's household, where famous men came and went, but he attempted to console himself with women's society. Perhaps the strangest of all the strange things he left behind him are his letters to Varina, as he called Miss Waring, the daughter of a neighbouring gentleman — the only woman who could boast of having refused Swift.

    Your halfway stage is Carrickfergus, a place well worth

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 184

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Kilroot, near Ballycarry at the foot of Larne Lough, lies the parish that was Jonathan Swift's first prebend. The coast road runs here, 24 miles from Larne toward Belfast. It was here that this formidable genius first experienced, in the words of the source, "the bondage of his cloth." The solitudes of Antrim had little charm for a man who had come from Temple's household, where famous men came and went. He attempted to console himself with women's society. Perhaps the strangest of all the strange things he left behind him are his letters to Varina, as he called Miss Waring, the daughter of a neighbouring gentleman. She was the only woman who could boast of having refused Swift.

48. August Pilgrimage for Cures at Gartan Shrine

    Bellville or Gartan · townland · Donegal

    On the 15th of August a great station was held at the Gartan shrine of St. Columba, where people gathered from all parts seeking cures. It was reckoned on that day the most healing place in Donegal, and locals recalled personal experiences of its therapeutic power.

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    On one day in the year— so I was told — there is a great station at this shrine — it is the 15th of August ; and at least at the time my informant knew it, people gathered from all parts to have cures wrought. It was accounted on this day the most healing place in Donegal, and the good woman remembered well going there with her father for pains he had, and a deal of good it did him. But the great place of pilgrimage that heals all ailments all days, is the Well of Doon. If you go, go there reverently, and even if you have nothing to be healed of, as is likely enough after a week's touring in Donegal, you should go to this place of pilgrimage. I have seen myself, when I was a boy, pilgrims flocking there on crutches, and I have known of a man who came all the way from Glasgow, bringing with him his worldly possessions — an old mother and an old mattress, and carrying both of them, for the old woman could make no shift to walk. Her son got her by public conveyance as far as Rathmelton, but for the ten long Irish miles to Gartan he carried the two of them. First he would leave the old woman and go on with the mattress ; then leave it by the road in sight, and go back for his mother, and so on. Whether he cured her or not we never heard, but surely he deserved a miracle. The piety of Cleobis and Bito, who drew their mother to the temple when the oxen died, was a small thing compared with his.

    To Doon Well then I would have you go from Gartan, and the best way is to cross the bridge over the Lennan where it leaves Gartan Lough and follow the road for a matter of seven miles to Kilmacrenan. Nearly all the way the slope is with

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Bellville or Gartan, there stands a shrine of St. Columba. On the 15th of August a great station was held there, and people gathered from all parts to have cures wrought. On that day it was reckoned the most healing place in Donegal. A good woman remembered well going there with her father for pains he had, and "a deal of good it did him." The greater place of pilgrimage for healing was the Well of Doon, which was said to heal all ailments on all days. The writer recalled seeing pilgrims flocking there on crutches when he was a boy. He knew of a man who came all the way from Glasgow, bringing his worldly possessions with him: an old mother and an old mattress. The old woman could make no shift to walk. Her son got her by public conveyance as far as Rathmelton, but for the ten long Irish miles to Gartan he carried the two of them. First he would leave the old woman and go on with the mattress, then leave it by the road in sight, and go back for his mother, and so on. Whether he cured her or not was never heard, but surely he deserved a miracle. The writer says the piety of Cleobis and Bito, who drew their mother to the temple when the oxen died, was a small thing compared with his.

49. Ballycastle's industrial decline under Boyd

    near Ballycastle · town · Antrim · 1786

    By 1786, when the first book on County Antrim was written, Ballycastle's glass-works, breweries, tanneries, and harbour had all fallen into neglect after the death of Mr. Boyd, who had fostered local industry. The collieries too eventually followed the rest into decline.

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    wrote in 1786 a book on County Antrim, the first that drew attention to its scenery and curiosities. Mr. Boyd was then a few years dead : but already "the glass-works were neglected, the breweries and tanneries mismanaged, the harbour became choked up with sand, and even the collieries not wrought with such spirit." The collieries, unhappily, have gone the way of the rest. The coal is at a deep level, and the seams slant downward instead of upward ; and though, even within late years, attempts have been made to reorganise the workings at Murlough Bay— where the output could be shipped from the quarry mouth— they have always failed : and the neighbourhood remains neither enriched nor disfigured by the forces of modern industry.

    The great days of Ballycastle, however, were under the Macdonnells. The Franciscan Abbey of Bonamargy was, and still is, their sanctuary and burying place. The ground of the cemetery, as Mr. Hill, their historian, puts it, " literally heaves with Clandonnell dust." Here were buried those who fell in the disastrous overthrow of Clandonnell, at the hands of Shane O'Neill in 1565 : and here, too, were buried those who died in the great fight at Slieve-an-Aura up in Glen Shesk, where the Macdonnells finally put an end to the resistance of the older lords the McQuillans. They tell a story of a clansman who went to the Countess of Antrim asking the lease of a farm.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 165

    As the companion tells it

    By 1786, the first book on County Antrim was written, drawing attention to its scenery and curiosities. Ballycastle was already showing what it had lost. Mr. Boyd, who had fostered the town's industry, was a few years dead, and everything he had built was fading. The glass-works were neglected. The breweries and tanneries were mismanaged. The harbour became choked up with sand. Even the collieries, the source says, were not wrought with such spirit. The collieries, unhappily, went the way of the rest. The coal lies at a deep level, and the seams slant downward instead of upward. Attempts were made to reorganise the workings at Murlough Bay, where the output could be shipped from the quarry mouth, but they always failed. The neighbourhood remains neither enriched nor disfigured by the forces of modern industry. The great days of Ballycastle were under the Macdonnells. The Franciscan Abbey of Bonamargy was and still is their sanctuary and burying place. The ground of the cemetery, as their historian Mr. Hill puts it, literally heaves with Clandonnell dust. Those who fell in the disastrous overthrow of Clandonnell at the hands of Shane O'Neill in 1565 were buried there. So too were those who died in the great fight at Slieve-an-Aura up in Glen Shesk, where the Macdonnells finally put an end to the resistance of the older lords, the McQuillans.

50. Caffar O'Donnell besieged in Lough Beagh crannog

    near Lough Beagh · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1559

    Caffar O'Donnell, son of Manus, held out against Calvagh in the crannog on Lough Beagh—the same crannog where Godfrey O'Donnell had lain sick and ordered his coffin. Con, son of Calvagh, besieged him with the full force of the Kinel Conaill.

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    It was not till 1559 that Shane got his return blow home, and it was a shrewd one. Caffar O'Donnell, son of Manus, was at strife with Calvagh, and held out in the Crannog on Lough Beagh, where Godfrey O'Donnell had lain sick and ordered his coffin. Con, son of Calvagh, was besieging him with all the force of Kinel Conaill. Word came to Shane that his enemy, Calvagh, was at Killydonnell Abbey, taking his ease, with only a few soldiers " besides women and poets." Shane launched a sudden troop of horse round the head of Lough S willy, swooped upon Killydonnell and carried the captives back into Tyrone. With all his ability he was a barbarian. Calvagh's wife became his concubine, and Calvagh himself was fettered so that he could neither lie down nor stand up, and used with such barbarity that we read in The Four Masters for 1561,

    " Mary, the daughter of Calvagh, son of Manus, son of Hugh Duv O'Donnell, and wife of O'Neill " (she was stepdaughter of Calvagh's wife whom Shane had taken), " died of horror, loathing, grief, and deep anguish, in consequence of the severity of the imprisonment inflicted on her father, Calvagh, by O'Neill in her presence."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Beagh in Donegal. In 1559, Caffar O'Donnell, son of Manus, was at strife with Calvagh, and held out in the crannog on this lake, the same crannog where Godfrey O'Donnell had lain sick and ordered his coffin. Con, son of Calvagh, besieged him with all the force of Kinel Conaill. Word came to Shane that his enemy Calvagh was at Killydonnell Abbey, taking his ease with only a few soldiers, "besides women and poets." Shane launched a sudden troop of horse round the head of Lough Swilly, swooped upon Killydonnell and carried the captives back into Tyrone. With all his ability he was a barbarian. Calvagh's wife became his concubine, and Calvagh himself was fettered so that he could neither lie down nor stand up, and used with such barbarity that The Four Masters record for 1561 the death of Mary, daughter of Calvagh, wife of O'Neill, who died of "horror, loathing, grief, and deep anguish" in consequence of the severity of the imprisonment inflicted on her father, Calvagh, by O'Neill in her presence.

51. English plunder of Derry Abbey

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1195–1222

    The English did not reach Derry until 1195, when they plundered the Abbey but were roughly handled in their retreat. Over the next twenty-seven years Derry was plundered or burnt six times amid post-invasion anarchy.

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    general assembly of the clergy of Ireland, held in Meath, decreed that Flaherty Bradley, the coarb of St. Columbkille, should be supreme over all the abbots in Ireland, and three years later his chief, O'Loughlin, exacted tribute for him from them. In the next year the king and the abbot built a cashel, or circular wall, round the Abbey and set up the Tempul Mor or Great Church, which gives its name to the parish — for Derry Cathedral is also a parish church. Derry had need for fortifications, since, in 1 1 64, part of the town was again burnt. Three years later came Strongbow's invasion. But the English did not reach Derry till 1195, when they plundered the Abbey but were roughly handled in their retreat. Then came a period of anarchy, for the invasion had shaken the power of the native chiefs, and fire and sword raged everywhere. Six times in the next twenty-seven years Derry was either plundered or burnt ; the only satisfaction for the monkish chroniclers was to chronicle the miraculous fact that the plunderers, as a rule, met a violent death within twelve months. The miracle would have been their escaping it, so common was slaying in those days. Gradually, however, the first and partial conquest of Ulster established some show of order, and in 131 1 Derry was granted by Edward II. to Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, whose fortress still stands at Greencastle. The town was happy enough to have dull annals for the next two centuries, till the outbreak of Shane O'Neill. When Sir Henry Sidney marched against that redoubtable warrior, he sent seven companies of foot and a troop of horse by sea to Derry, to establish a fort in the rear of the enemy. The place was held for the English till 1588, when the explosion of a powder magazine shattered the whole fort and reduced the " Black Abbey and Tempul Mor Church " to ruins.

    The present cathedral does not occupy the site of either of these churches. They lay outside the walls of the English city, where a large Roman Catholic church now stands, approached by a lane called " Long Town "—a memorial of the Round

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 140

    As the companion tells it

    Derry is the place, the city the road passes through or near. The story here belongs to the years around the turn of the thirteenth century. The English had not reached Derry until 1195. When they came, they plundered the Abbey. But they were roughly handled in their retreat, and the record makes a point of that. What followed was a period of anarchy. The invasion had shaken the power of the native chiefs, and fire and sword raged everywhere. Six times in the next twenty-seven years Derry was either plundered or burnt. That is the count the chroniclers kept. The only satisfaction the monkish writers found was to note the miraculous fact that the plunderers, as a rule, met a violent death within twelve months. The book calls it a miracle, but adds that the miracle would have been escaping such a death, so common was slaying in those days. So Derry in those decades was a place of repeated ruin, and the men who carried it out did not usually outlast their work by long.

52. Farmhouse claimed as Miss Paterson's birthplace

    near Fanad · locality · Donegal

    A farmhouse along the road in Fanad is locally said to be where Miss Paterson, Jerome Bonaparte's first wife, first saw the light. The claim appears as a local tradition rather than documented fact, connecting this obscure Donegal farmhouse to Napoleonic-era celebrity.

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    you pass the farmhouse where the once celebrated Miss Paterson, Jerome Bonaparte's first wife, is said to have first seen the light. Continue until you come to a point where the telegraph wires diverge, and then, unless you want to go to Milford, turn to the left, and the road will take you past Lord Leitrim's store and mill, along a level eight miles down the Fanad shore of Mulroy ; so that you will see the lough in all its aspects, and, it is to be hoped, in all its beauty. The road to Portsalon turns off to the right, before you reach the village of Tamney. At Kerrykeel, which you pass on the way, is a cromlech. The Portsalon road is hilly, but direct, and soon brings you in sight of the waters of Lough Swilly. The whole ride from Rosa- "penna may be put at twenty-three miles.

    Colonel Barton's hotel at Portsalon is, perhaps, the best known of all these Donegal hotels at present, owing to the fortunate circumstance that he has discovered at his door one of the three best golf links in Ireland ; but the hotel was started before golf came to give an impetus to tourist traffic in Donegal, and its owner deserves the credit of a pioneer. The history of it is roughly this : the Government built a pier in Ballymastocker Bay, and Colonel Barton perceived the possibility of working in conjunction with the steamer that should bring excursionists down from Derry. Naturally he applied for a spirit license as hotel-keeper, and this brought about a violent opposition from the neighbouring publican. The opposition was overruled by the Licensing Bench, and Colonel Barker got his license. The defeated rival, who was a Catholic and Nationalist, went away, cursing by all his gods against the "bloody Orange majority." "Ah well," he said to a knot of his sympathisers, "let him alone, boys ; wait till he gets to hell. He'll find no Orange majority there."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 113

    As the companion tells it

    In Fanad, there is a farmhouse that local tradition names as the birthplace of Miss Paterson, Jerome Bonaparte's first wife. The claim is tradition only, not documented fact, but it links this part of Donegal to the name of a woman the book calls "once celebrated." The passage says she "is said to have first seen the light" at this farmhouse. Those words, first seen the light, are the book's own. They carry the weight of what local people believed enough to tell a traveller passing through. Beyond the farmhouse, the road runs along the shore of Mulroy for a level eight miles, past Lord Leitrim's store and mill, with the lough beside it. At Kerrykeel, which the road passes, there stands a cromlech. Before the village of Tamney, the road to Portsalon turns off and soon brings the waters of Lough Swilly into sight. The whole ride from Rosapenna, the book says, may be put at twenty-three miles. At Portsalon, Colonel Barton's hotel became well known because golf links at his door were called one of the three best in Ireland. The hotel had started before golf brought tourists to Donegal. When Barton applied for a spirit license, a neighbouring publican opposed him. The Licensing Bench overruled the opposition. The defeated man, a Catholic and Nationalist, went away cursing what he called the "bloody Orange majority." He told his sympathisers, "Let him alone, boys; wait till he gets to hell. He'll find no Orange majority there."

53. First ballot vote in Derry bye-election, 1872

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1872

    Vote by ballot for parliamentary representatives first came into effect at the bye-election for the City of Derry in 1872. Shortly after, on the road to Derry, small farmers discussed with a pig-jobber how the new secret ballot worked, expressing enthusiastic approval that nobody would know how they voted.

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    Vote by ballot for representatives in Parliament first came into effect at the bye-election for the City of Derry in 1872.

    A few days after (November, 1872), on my way to Derry, I heard the following conversation between a Derry pig-jobber and some small farmers who were going into Derry with pigs to sell.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    Derry, 1872. The first vote by ballot for parliamentary representatives came into effect at the bye-election here. A few days after, on the road into the city, small farmers heading in with pigs to sell talked with a pig-jobber about how the new secret ballot worked. They were glad of it. Nobody would know how they voted.

54. Girona anchored in Mulroy or Sheephaven

    near Mulroy Bay · bay · Donegal · 1588

    After the Duquesa Sta. Anna was wrecked, De Leyva made his way to the Girona, which lay at anchor in Mulroy or Sheephaven. After a week's labour to make her seaworthy, the remnant of three crews set out for Scotland.

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    the coast of Tyrconnell would have met a very different reception; but Ireland had not yet been driven to hold that her best friends were the enemies of England. Three great ships went ashore on Streedagh Strand between Sligo and Bundoran. Another, the Rata, under Don Alonzo de Leyva, broke loose from her anchors and ran ashore ; but her crew were hospitably sheltered by O'Rourke. of Brefny, till they embarked again upon another vessel, the San Martin, which had been able to hold out in the offing. They met the Girona, and Duquesa Sta. Anna, and made their escape northwards, the wind being still westerly : but the three were obliged to put into Killybegs when the ships again foundered, but the crews — 2,000 in number — got ashore with their arms. Here they obtained fresh stores, and a welcome from MacSwiney of Banaght, lord of this country : and having managed to patch up two of their vessels they again put to sea, abandoning the San Martin. The Duquesa Sta. Anna, however, had no better fortune ; she ran upon the rocks in Glennagaveny Bay, west of Inishowen Head. De Leyva, escaping from her, made his way to the Girona, which lay at anchor in Mulroy or Sheephaven. After a week's labour upon her to make her seaworthy, he and the remnant of three crews, stood out to make the coast of Scotland, where there was some chance of friendship ; but, hugging the Antrim coast, near the Giant's Causeway, ran on a rock and perished. Sorley Boy Macdonell, Lord of Dunluce, came to the rescue, but recovered only five of the crew, certain butts of wine, and three pieces of cannon, which he mounted on his castle and refused to give up. Another wreck occurred at a neighbouring point, and eleven of this second crew found shelter with Sorley Boy, who eventually despatched them over to Scotland.

    Another ship of the first class, La Trinidad Valencera, went on shore in the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen. A large number of the crew succeeded in landing, and were tolerably

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Mulroy Bay, in Donegal. In 1588, this was where the Girona lay at anchor, one of the ships of the Spanish Armada driven north along the Irish coast. Don Alonzo de Leyva had already lost one ship, the Rata, which broke loose from her anchors and ran ashore. Her crew were sheltered by O'Rourke of Brefny until they embarked again on the San Martin. They met the Girona and the Duquesa Sta. Anna and made their way northwards, but were obliged to put into Killybegs when the ships again foundered. The crews, 2,000 in number, got ashore with their arms. There they found a welcome from MacSwiney of Banaght, lord of that country, and obtained fresh stores. They patched up two of their vessels and put to sea again, abandoning the San Martin. But the Duquesa Sta. Anna ran upon the rocks in Glennagaveny Bay, west of Inishowen Head. De Leyva escaped from her and made his way to the Girona, which lay at anchor here in Mulroy or Sheephaven. After a week's labour upon her to make her seaworthy, he and the remnant of three crews stood out to make the coast of Scotland, where there was some chance of friendship. But hugging the Antrim coast near the Giant's Causeway, the Girona ran on a rock and perished. Sorley Boy Macdonell, Lord of Dunluce, came to the rescue, but recovered only five of the crew, certain butts of wine, and three pieces of cannon, which he mounted on his castle and refused to give up.

55. Glenarm as the Macdonnell family seat

    near Glenarm · village · Antrim

    With the death of the sixth Earl in 1791 the male heirs of the Macdonnells became extinct. The family seat is at Glenarm, which came to the Macdonnells through the inheritance of Marjory Bisset, and the present holders of the title trace descent through the female side.

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    Thus Dunluce has been only a picturesque accessory of the Macdonnell possessions since the Commonwealth, and not a place of strength. The later history of the family may be briefly sketched. The third Earl, like his father, was unable to take a decided part when the troubles came in 1689 : marching to the relief of Derry, he was shut out by its defenders and suffered forfeiture, but regained his estates after much petitioning. The fourth Earl in 17 15 was likewise suspected of Jacobite leanings, and threatened with forfeiture. With the death of the sixth Earl in 1791 the male heirs became extinct, and the present holders of the title trace their descent through the female side. The family seat is at Glenarm, which came to the Macdonnells in the inheritance of Marjory Bisset.

    I borrow a description of Dunluce Castle, as it is at present, from Mr. Cooke's Handbook.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 160

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you near Glenarm, the family seat of the Macdonnells. The male heirs became extinct with the death of the sixth Earl in 1791, and the present holders of the title trace their descent through the female side. The estate came to the Macdonnells through the inheritance of Marjory Bisset. The family's earlier history was troubled. The third Earl, like his father, was unable to take a decided part when the troubles came in 1689. Marching to the relief of Derry, he was shut out by its defenders and suffered forfeiture, but regained his estates after much petitioning. The fourth Earl was likewise suspected of Jacobite leanings and threatened with forfeiture. Dunluce, another Macdonnell possession, has been only a picturesque accessory since the Commonwealth, not a place of strength.

56. Grianan of Aileach built for princess Aileach

    near Grianan of Aileach · monument · Donegal

    Eoghad of the Hy Niall married Aileach, daughter of the King of Alba, for whom the Grianan of Aileach was built, looking over Lough Swilly. Two of her sons founded the Dalriadic kingdom with a foot on either shore of the Moyle.

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    From Eoghad of the Hy Niall and his wife Aileach, daughter of the King of Alba — the princess for whom was built the Grianan of Aileach, looking over Lough Swiliy — sprang a numerous family. Two of her sons founded the Dalriadic kingdom, with a foot on either shore of the Movie, which early in the sixth century was consolidated by Fergus Mac Ere — the prince who on one of his journeys between the shores of Antrim and Cantire was driven out of his course by wind and lost on the rock which still keeps his name, Carrickfergus — the Rock of Fergus. By the end of the sixth century the Scotch kingdom— the Lordship of the Isles — was recognised as distinct and independent ; and when the Macdonnells came to Ireland, as they did countless times between the sixth and fourteenth centuries, they came either as allies or enemies. In 12 n, for instance, they spoiled Derry, but it was as the allies of the O'Donnells of Tyrconnell. They were not then known as Macdonnells. Donnell, the chief from whom the Clandonnell took its name, was Lord of the Isles about 1250. Their stepping stone to the Irish coast was Rathlin, which belonged to

    236

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 156

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Grianan of Aileach is a place built for a princess. Aileach, daughter of the King of Alba, married Eoghad of the Hy Niall, and the Grianan was built for her, looking over Lough Swilly. From that marriage came a numerous family. Two of her sons founded the Dalriadic kingdom, with a foot on either shore of the Moyle. Early in the 6th century that kingdom was consolidated by Fergus Mac Ere, a prince who on one of his journeys between Antrim and Cantire was driven off course by wind and lost on the rock which still keeps his name, Carrickfergus, the Rock of Fergus. By the end of the 6th century the Scotch kingdom, the Lordship of the Isles, was recognised as distinct and independent. When the Macdonnells came to Ireland, countless times between the 6th and 14th centuries, they came either as allies or enemies. They spoiled Derry, but as allies of the O'Donnells of Tyrconnell. They were not then known as Macdonnells. Donnell, the chief from whom the Clandonnell took its name, was Lord of the Isles about 1250. Their stepping stone to the Irish coast was Rathlin.

57. Gweedore inn as outpost of civilization

    near Gweedore · locality · Donegal · 1849

    The Gweedore inn, described by Carlyle in 1849 as a two-storied white house at the foot of hills near the river, was built by Lord George Hill as an oasis in the desolate country. Its attached model farm was meant to demonstrate what could be grown on the same land as the tenants held.

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    the drive from Letterkenny to liallyarr. " Handsome, gravesmiling man of fifty or more; thick grizzled hair; elegant club nose, low cooing voice, military composure, and absence- of loquacity; a man you love at first sight." Next day Lord' George drove his guest to Gweedore, passing through Kilmacrenan, over Owen Harrow Bridge, and so between Dooish and Errigal. " I never drove, or walked, or rode, in any region such a black, dismal twenty-two miles of road," is Carlyle's comment. And indeed, if you are looking out for high farming and the homes of an industrious and thriving peasantry, that road is little fitted to please you. The plantations on Dunlewy lake rejoiced his soul, however, and here is his sketch of the Gweedore inn, photographic as usual. " Gweedore inn ; two-storied, white, human house, with offices in square behind, at the foot of hills, on the right near the river ; this is the only quite civilised-looking thing ; we enter there through gateway into the clean little sheltered court, and there under the piazza at the back of the inn Forster waits for us and is kindly received."

    The purpose of the hotel was in those days more evident than it is now. It was to make an oasis in what Carlyle called, rightly enough, the " desolate savagery " round it ; the farm attached to it was to show what could be done with the same sort of land as any one else had ; it was to be a kind of standard of human civilisation. Incidentally also it was no doubt meant to make tourists a possible source of revenue, and shame the other inns of the country into cleanliness and comfort. All these things it has done to some extent, and naturally the oasis is no longer so conspicuously an oasis.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 94

    As the companion tells it

    Gweedore in Donegal is a place travellers passed through in 1849 and found almost nothing but wildness. Lord George Hill drove his guest Thomas Carlyle here from Letterkenny, through Kilmacrenan, over Owen Harrow Bridge, and between Dooish and Errigal. Carlyle called it the blackest, most dismal 22 miles of road he had ever travelled. He described Lord George as a handsome, grave-smiling man of fifty or more, with thick grizzled hair and a low cooing voice, a man you loved at first sight. The one thing that pleased Carlyle was the Gweedore inn. He described it as a two-storied white house with offices in a square behind it, at the foot of the hills, near the river. He called it the only quite civilised-looking thing in the whole region. He wrote that they entered through a gateway into a clean little sheltered court, and under the piazza at the back of the inn a man named Forster waited for them and was kindly received. Lord George Hill had built the inn as an oasis in what Carlyle called the desolate savagery round it. The farm attached to the inn was meant to show what could be grown on the same sort of land as any tenant had. It was a standard of human civilisation in a country that seemed to have none. It was also meant to draw tourists and their money, and to shame the other inns of the country into cleanliness and comfort. Carlyle found one small mercy on the drive, the plantations on Dunlewy lake, which he said rejoiced his soul.

58. Gweedore rebellion and evictions, 1889

    near Gweedore · locality · Donegal · 1889

    In February 1889 the Gweedore district was in suppressed rebellion after the Plan of Campaign was preached and great evictions followed on the Olphert estate. Troops brought a battering ram to knock down cabin walls of those who refused entry to officers of the law.

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    Leaving Bunbeg, you take a road running eastward along the coast to Derrybeg, about two miles off ; you will know when you get there by a very steep and rather tortuous hill, on which there is more than the usual chance of meeting a cow or donkey, owing to the presence of some cabins halfway down. At the hill's foot a small stream flows under a bridge, and in the tiny hollow of a gorge is Derrybeg chapel, unhappily too well known. In this hollow, when the penal laws existed, the people of the district assembled to hear mass in the open air; the spot itself was secure from observation, and sentries posted in the heather round easily guarded against a surprise of the priest. So when the penal laws were repealed, and Derrybeg grew rich enough to have a chapel — it is wonderful how much money the poorest parishes will contribute for this end — they were determined that the chapel should stand nowhere but in this spot of many memories. The chapel actually stands astride of the stream ; and early in the eighties, on one Sunday a heavy flood came down, burst the culvert under the chapel, and instantly filling the building, drowned several of the worshippers. Worse, however, had to come. In February, 1889, the whole Gweedore district was in a state of suppressed rebellion. The Plan of Campaign had been preached, great evictions followed on the Olphert estate, and troops were sent down to keep the population under. They brought with them the famous battering-ram, which was used for knocking in the walls of cabins whose inmates refused to open to the officers of the law. If these things have to be done, it is well to take the simplest and most efficacious means of doing them; but the necessity was not an agreeable one, and the feelings of the peasantry were inflamed to the uttermost. Their leader was the priest, Father Macfadden, who in all negotiations with landlords acted as a spokesman for his flock; and to the influence which his office gave him among a people superstitious or religious in the highest degree, he added the natural ascendency of a strong character. The Government was anxious to arrest him, but the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 96

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into the district of Gweedore, in Donegal. There is Derrybeg chapel, unhappily too well known, in a tiny hollow of a gorge where a small stream flows under a bridge. When the penal laws existed, the people of the district assembled there to hear mass in the open air. The spot was secure from observation, and sentries posted in the heather round easily guarded against a surprise of the priest. When the penal laws were repealed, they were determined the chapel should stand nowhere but in this spot of many memories. The chapel stands astride of the stream. Early in the 1880s, on one Sunday, a heavy flood came down, burst the culvert under the chapel, and instantly filling the building, drowned several of the worshippers. Worse, however, had to come. In February 1889 the whole Gweedore district was in a state of suppressed rebellion. The Plan of Campaign had been preached, great evictions followed on the Olphert estate, and troops were sent down to keep the population under. They brought with them the famous battering ram, used for knocking in the walls of cabins whose inmates refused to open to the officers of the law. The feelings of the peasantry were inflamed to the uttermost. Their leader was the priest, Father Macfadden, who in all negotiations with landlords acted as a spokesman for his flock. To the influence which his office gave him among a people religious in the highest degree, he added the natural ascendency of a strong character. The Government was anxious to arrest him.

59. Irish Society granted lands in Coleraine

    near Coleraine · town · Derry · 1612

    In 1612, the newly formed Irish Society was granted the towns of Derry and Coleraine along with surrounding acreage and fishing rights on the Foyle and Bann. The Society was tasked with maintaining a garrison at Culmore and enclosing Derry with walls.

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    the town acquired its new name, Londonderry. In 161 2 the Irish Society was formed for the new Plantation in Ulster. There were granted to them the towns of Derry and Coleraine, with 4,000 acres at Derry, and 3,000 at Coleraine, beside the fisheries of the Foyle and the Bann ; the Society was pledged to maintain a garrison at Culmore, and to enclose Derry with walls — which were laid out and built in 161 7, at a cost of ^8357. In 1633, the Cathedral was erected. Under the Commonwealth, Nonconformists used it as a place of worship, and during the siege, Episcopalians and Presbyterians held their devotions there alternately. The first spire was of wood, leaded, but the lead disappeared in the siege, when ammunition ran short.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes near Coleraine, a town granted to the Irish Society in 1612, when the Society was formed for the new Plantation in Ulster. Derry was the other. They received 4000 acres at Derry and 3000 at the latter, beside the fisheries of the Foyle and the Bann. The Society was pledged to maintain a garrison at Culmore and to enclose Derry with walls, which were laid out and built at a cost of 8357. In 1633 the Cathedral was erected. Under the Commonwealth, Nonconformists used it as a place of worship, and during the siege, Episcopalians and Presbyterians held their devotions there alternately. The first spire was of wood, leaded, but the lead disappeared in the siege, when ammunition ran short.

60. Lady Londonderry's coach wreck on Cushendun road

    Cushendun · townland · Antrim

    The notoriously bad road between Cushendun and Fair Head is known locally as 'the road Lady Londonderry was wrecked on.' Frances Anne, the old Lady Londonderry, once set out with a coach and four and a new English coachman to drive this road, but had to turn back when it became impossible.

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    road winds a good deal and the water takes short cuts when the rain falls, so that deep trenches occur every few yards, and if you do not run into the ditch you will probably break the back of your machine. Once you are over the bridge you have to push up the counterpart of this, and the remaining six miles to Cushendun, though better, are not much better. It is known in the country side as "the road Lady Londonderry was

    Mur lough Bay.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 175

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Cushendun there is a road people still call the road Lady Londonderry was wrecked on. Frances Anne, the old Lady Londonderry, set out with a coach and four and a new English coachman to drive it. The road winds a good deal, and when rain falls the water takes short cuts, cutting deep trenches every few yards. She had to turn back when it became impossible. The name has stuck ever since.