Highways and byways in Donegal and Antrim;

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Lough Barra rendezvous for Derrybeagh eviction force

   Lough Barra · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1861

   Lough Barra served as the assembly point on April 7th, 1861, for a detachment of soldiers and police sent to protect the civil power during the Derrybeagh evictions. The author calls it one of the most disastrous military expeditions ever sent into Donegal.

   Read the passage

   Lough Barra was the meeting place for one of the most disastrous military expeditions ever sent into Donegal. I doubt if soldiers were ever despatched on a less congenial duty than were the detachment who marched there on April 7th, 186 1, to protect the civil power in executing the Derry Beagh evictions.

   In 1857 Mr. John George Adair, a wealthy gentleman of Queen's County who had been taken with the beauty of Glen Veagh, bought up the Gartan estates. Mr. Adair was a friend of so well known a Nationalist as Sir Charles Gavan Duffy, editor of the famous Nation newspaper : he had stood for Parliament as a tenant-right candidate and is admitted to have been a kindly, well-meaning man. Unfortunately he at once came into

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 58

2. Moville as great artery of emigration

   Moville · town · Donegal

   Moville is the point of call for great liners bound from Liverpool to Canada and the United States, serving as the focus of emigration for the Protestant North just as Queenstown serves the Catholic South and West.

   Read the passage

   Moville is, of course, now familiar to every one as the point of call for the great liners bound from Liverpool to Canada and the United States ; it is the focus of emigration for the Protestant North as Queenstown is for the Catholic South and West — one of the two great open arteries by which the strength and life of Ireland is continually passing away to be transfused into the veins of other lands.

   At Greencastle, three miles off on the coast— only two beyond Carnagariffe — is the ruin of a castle built in 13 13 by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster — a trace of that early grip gained on the northern province which in a short time was so completely shaken off.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 136

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up through Moville in Donegal, you are passing through what the book calls one of the two great open arteries of Ireland. The great liners bound from Liverpool to Canada and the United States made this their point of call. It served as the focus of emigration for the Protestant North, just as Queenstown did for the Catholic South and West. The writer saw these places as channels by which, in their words, "the strength and life of Ireland is continually passing away to be transfused into the veins of other lands."

3. Neddy Gallagher's tale of the frustrated English angler

   Lackagh · townland · Donegal

   Neddy Gallagher, a gillie on the Lackagh river, recounted the story of an Englishman who paid a hundred pounds for two months of fishing. The angler never turned a tail the first month and spent the second sitting on a rock cursing, hooking nothing but a heifer in the entire two months.

   Read the passage

   with rising fish and not been able to stir one, day after day. It was then that Neddy Gallagher used to sit down and tell us about an Englishman that once took the river for two months and paid a hundred pounds for it. " The first month he fished it up and he fished it down and niver turned a tail ; and the second month he sat down on a rock in the river and he to the cursing. That was the sorest time ever I put in. But the only thing he hooked in the two months was a heifer."

   Still, that was exceptional, and there is always this about a salmon, that he does not know his own mind. You may fish over him twenty times and the twenty-first he may take you. The odds are that he won't, but there is no certainty against it as there would be with a trout. I saw a salmon killed this year on the Lennan in dead still water, without the ghost of a ripple on it. He had risen some time in the afternoon, but refused to come back in spite of many offers. Just before dark my friend went out again on to the pool. Four times we drifted the boat up and down past that fish, and four times the flies were put into the exact spot — a little creek by the bank about a yard square — where he was lying. Then we tried the head of the pool, and' coming down the cast was made again, and he sucked down the fly somewhere deep below the surface. In the same way, at the Lackagh, I have seen the eel-weir fished for twelve hours on end by a keeper. Within one half-hour in the day he killed two fish, but he had fished the same spot for hours before and hours after without a rise.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 190

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, on the Lackagh river, Neddy Gallagher worked as a gillie, and he used to sit down and tell a story about an Englishman who once took the river for two months and paid a hundred pounds for it. The first month the Englishman fished it up and he fished it down and never turned a tail. The second month he sat down on a rock in the river and he took to cursing. Neddy said it was the sorest time ever he put in. The only thing the Englishman hooked in the two months was a heifer. But that was exceptional. There is always this about a salmon: he does not know his own mind. You may fish over him twenty times and the twenty-first he may take you. The odds are that he won't, but there is no certainty against it as there would be with a trout. A salmon was killed one year on the Lennan in dead still water, without the ghost of a ripple on it. He had risen some time in the afternoon but refused to come back in spite of many offers. Just before dark a friend went out again onto the pool. Four times the boat was drifted up and down past that fish, and four times the flies were put into the exact spot, a little creek by the bank about a yard square, where he was lying. Then they tried the head of the pool, and coming down the cast was made again, and he sucked down the fly somewhere deep below the surface. In the same way, at the Lackagh, the eel-weir was fished for twelve hours on end by a keeper. Within one half-hour in the day he killed two fish, but he had fished the same spot for hours before and hours after without a rise.

4. O'Donnell camps at Carraig overlooking Donegal

   Donegal · town · Donegal · 1601

   Red Hugh O'Donnell marched his army northward across the rivers Sligo, Duff, Drowes and Erne, pitching camp in a strong position at Carraig, about 2,000 paces from Donegal where Nial Garv and the English were stationed. He ordered his forces to blockade the monastery by day and night.

   Read the passage

   " After this news reached O'Donnell that Xial Garv, the son of Con, Son of Calvagh, with his English and Irish, had come from the east across Bearnas and encamped at Donegal in the east of Tir Hugh. When O'Donnell received the news that the English had arrived at that place he felt grieved for the misfortune of the monastery, that the English should occupy it and inhabit it instead of the sons of Life and the Culdees whose rightful property it was then ; and he could not forbear from going to try if he could relieve them. He left the farmers and the betaghs of Tirconnell with their flocks and herds through Lower Connaught, with some of his soldiers to protect them against attack from the harbours and against the kernes and foreign tribes, and he himself proceeded with the greater part of his army across the rivers Sligo, Duff, Drowes and Erne northward and pitched his camp in strong position exactly at Carraig, which is upwards of 2,000 paces from Donegal where Nial Garv and his English were stationed. As for O'Donnell he ordered great numbers of his forces to blockade the monastery in turns by day and night, so as to prevent the English from coming outside its wall to destroy anything in the country. Xeither did the armies pass their time by any means happily and

   4»

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 32

   As the companion tells it

   Coming through Donegal now, the town where Nial Garv and his English force were stationed in 1601. News had reached O'Donnell that Nial Garv, son of Con, son of Calvagh, had come from the east across Bearnas and encamped here, in the east of Tir Hugh. O'Donnell felt grieved for the monastery, that the English should occupy and inhabit it instead of the sons of life and the Culdees whose rightful property it was. He left the farmers and betaghs of Tirconnell with their flocks and herds through Lower Connaught, with some soldiers to protect them against attack from the harbours and against the kernes and foreign tribes. He himself proceeded with the greater part of his army across the rivers Sligo, Duff, Drowes and Erne northward, and pitched camp in a strong position at Carraig, about 2,000 paces from Donegal. He ordered great numbers of his forces to blockade the monastery in turns by day and night, to prevent the English from coming outside its wall to destroy anything in the country. Neither army passed their time happily.

5. Red Hugh's men reach the gates of Galway, 1597

   Galway · city · Galway · 1597

   In 1597, Red Hugh O'Donnell marched his forces to the very gates of Galway before returning across the Erne. On his way back he routed the O'Conor of Sligo, who had attacked him with a combined force of English and Irish troops.

   Read the passage

   Four Masters, soon paid the penalty of his sacrilege at Rathmullen and Tory, for he was slain on his return to Connaught by Ulick Burke, who thereupon delivered up the town of Sligo to Red Hugh. O'Donnell immediately reinstated in their lands all those chiefs whom Bingham had expelled in his very oppressive government. It was a demonstration to the world that the lords of Ulster meant no ordinary rising, but a systematic sweeping away of the English from Celtic Ireland. By the end of the year, O'Donnell had broken down near a score of the castles in Connaught ; he had named new chiefs of the great clans, Burkes, O'Dowds, Macdonaghs and Macdermots ; he held hostages from them all ; and he was a greater power in Connaught than Elizabeth's Governor. It was time for the English to take thought ; and they sent the Earl of Ormond and the Archbishop of Cashel to make terms. They offered to the Earls the entire " province of Conchobar," that is, Ulster except the tract between Dundalk and the Boyne; Carrickfergus, Carlingford and Newry were to remain trading outposts ; all sheriffs were to be withdrawn, except in the towns named, and Connaught was to have similar privileges. But Tyrone, RedHugh, and their council "having reflected, for a long time, upon the many that had been ruined by the English since their arrival in Ireland, by specious promises, which they had not performed, and the number of Irish high-born princes, gentlemen, and chieftains who came to premature deaths without any reason at all, except to rob them of their patrimonies," decided to reject the peace. Elizabeth then sent 20,000 men into Ireland, and Sir John Norris marched into Connaught at the head of a great hosting. O'Donnell marched out too, but the armies only watched each other. The English took the wise step of recalling Sir Richard Bingham and his relatives, and substituting Sir Conyers Clifford " a far better man than he." Nevertheless, in 1597, Red Hugh carried his men to the very gates of Galway and returned across the Erne, routing on his way the O'Conor of Sligo, who attacked him with a body of English and Irish troops. But, in the same

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 122

   As the companion tells it

   As the road comes into Galway, this is the city Red Hugh O'Donnell's men reached in 1597. He carried them to the very gates, then returned across the Erne. On his way back he routed the O'Conor of Sligo, who attacked him with a body of English and Irish troops. The lords of Ulster meant no ordinary rising. Ulick Burke had delivered Sligo to Red Hugh. O'Donnell reinstated the chiefs whom Sir Richard Bingham had expelled in his oppressive government. He broke down near a score of castles in Connaught. He named new chiefs of the Burkes, O'Dowds, Macdonaghs and Macdermots. He held hostages from them all. He was a greater power in Connaught than Elizabeth's Governor. The English sent the Earl of Ormond and the Archbishop of Cashel to make terms. They offered the Earls the entire province of Conchobar, meaning Ulster except the tract between Dundalk and the Boyne. Carrickfergus, Carlingford and Newry were to remain trading outposts. All sheriffs were to be withdrawn except in the named towns, and Connaught was to have similar privileges. Tyrone, Red Hugh and their council rejected the peace. They reflected, in the words of the source, "upon the many that had been ruined by the English since their arrival in Ireland, by specious promises, which they had not performed, and the number of Irish high-born princes, gentlemen, and chieftains who came to premature deaths without any reason at all, except to rob them of their patrimonies." Elizabeth sent 20,000 men into Ireland. Sir John Norris marched into Connaught. O'Donnell marched out too, but the armies only watched each other. The English recalled Bingham and substituted Sir Conyers Clifford, "a far better man than he."

6. Shane O'Neill's campaigns against the Macdonnells in Antrim

   near Antrim · town · Antrim

   Shane O'Neill attempted to crush the Macdonnells in Antrim, and the English applauded him for doing it. The Macdonnells had been strengthening themselves on the eastern sea-board by bringing in Scottish mercenaries called 'redshanks'.

   Read the passage

   struggle was protracted, but it could only end one way. Ireland was eaten slowly, but it was bound to be eaten so long as the sea was a wall of defence to England, but a highway of approach to any point in Ireland. Ulster was eaten last; the toughest and the least tempting morsel. Up till the reign of Elizabeth there was no serious attempt at general conquest of it j and when the conquest was undertaken it was begun and carried out by the help of the Irish ; empire came of division. Shane O'Neill after defying the English successfully till Sir Henry Sidney said that " this man " could burn if he liked " up to the gates of Dublin and go away unfought," had enemies on each flank ; he had tried to crush the Macdonnells in Antrim and the English had applauded him for doing it ; he had tried to crush the O'Donnells in Tyrconnell, and the English befriended the O'Donnells, or rather swore to befriend them. So when at last Shane the Proud was defeated with great slaughter by Hugh Roe O'Donnell at Letterkenny, he found himself ringed about with enemies and could only choose which of them he should flee to. He chose the Macdonnells, and they, partly in revenge and partly as the most assured passport to English favour, made a short end of him and left Ulster without a head.

   The whole principle of succession in Ireland was that loose and ill-defined half-hereditary system which one finds everywhere among martial and semi-barbarous tribes. The chief was theoretically elected by the clan from the princely family ; and while he lived his tanist or successor was theoretically recognised ; but practically when it came to elections the strong hand decided. Hence there was never a clan but had in it some dependent prince who either was plotting his way to chieftainship and ready at all times to clear rivals from the path by any means, or else was aggrieved at having been passed over. Further, the urraghts or vassals of the ruling clan were often of doubtful loyalty. If the O'Donnell was strong in Donegal, the O'Dogherty of Inishowen was his trusty

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0

7. Skirmishes around Strabane and Limavady

   near Strabane · town · Tyrone · 1642

   During the 1641 rebellion, a disorderly rebel force under Sir Phelim O'Neill encamped around Strabane in 1642. Once the rebels retired, local regiments raised by the Stewarts seized the chance to recapture Strabane and relieve Limavady.

   Read the passage

   In the rebellion of 1641, Derry was in a state of siege, but the resolution of the local gentry caused speedy and wise preparation to be made. The Irish Society sent over fifteen guns, some of them still to be identified on the ramparts — now obsolete as they : but Derry was forced to clamour loudly for fresh supplies of food, and above all of powder. The three regiments which were raised by Sir William and Sir Robert Stewart had much ado to keep in check a disorderly force under Sir Phelim O'Neill, that lay about Strabane in 1642, till its retirement gave them a chance to recapture Strabane and relieve Limavady. Derry declared for the Covenant, and in 1648, Sir Charles Coote, with a commission from the Parliament, became governor, and remained so till the restoration. It is hopeless to sketch here the inextricable tangle of parties who fought and plotted against one another in Ireland, till its reduction by Cromwell. Derry had taken up arms to defend itself against the native Irish, and Sir Robert Stewart had been a chief director of its preparations. But now King and Parliament were at war, and Derry, full of London citizens, stood for the republican side. Sir Robert Stewart, who held Culmore fort, sided, like the Scotch, with Charles, and, commanding the river, was a thorn in Coote's side. A treacherous stratagem ended this. Stewart entered Derry under a safe escort, and was

   XV

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 141

8. Spanish ambassadors received at Killybegs, 1598

   Killybegs · town · Donegal · 1598

   In 1598 a Spanish vessel arrived at Killybegs harbour carrying ambassadors from Spain. Red Hugh O'Donnell and Hugh O'Neill, Earl of Tyrone, travelled to the port to interview them, underlining Killybegs' strategic role as a gateway for Spanish-Irish diplomatic contact.

   Read the passage

   Killybegs is not a place with an exciting past ; but it may be a place with a future. It has the best harbour on the West of Ireland, and there is talk of arranging to make it a place of call for steamers bound to America ; in that case Killybegs will grow rich and prosperous. Its harbour has always given it some touch with the outside world. In 1598 a vessel put in there with ambassadors from Spain, and Red Hugh O'Donnell and Tyrone interviewed them in the port. But ten years earlier, Spanish vessels in a very different trim had put into Killybegs in their stress.

   When the great Armada was staggering homewards on its terrible journey this shore was the scene of many disasters. Medina's instructions to his fleet were to run well northwards and then far to the west of the dangerous Irish coast, but heavy weather met them, and ship after ship failed to weather the jutting shore of Connaught, and was driven to cast anchor. In nearly every case the tackle proved too weak to hold them against such a sea ; the cables parted, and they went ashore, where the unhappy crews, if they succeeded in landing, were stripped or slain by the natives, and such of them as the Irish spared were hanged by the English. This was in the days when Sir John Perrott had brought the country into something more approaching a willing loyalty to the British crown. Ten years later, in the days of Red Hugh, any Spaniard who landed on

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 34

   As the companion tells it

   Killybegs has always had some touch with the outside world, thanks to its harbour, the best on the west of Ireland. In 1598 a vessel put in here carrying ambassadors from Spain, and Red Hugh O'Donnell and Tyrone travelled to the port to interview them. Ten years earlier, Spanish vessels had put into Killybegs in very different circumstances. When the great Armada was staggering homewards, this shore was the scene of many disasters. Medina's instructions to his fleet were to run well northwards and far to the west of the dangerous Irish coast, but heavy weather met them. Ship after ship failed to weather the jutting shore of Connaught and was driven to cast anchor. In nearly every case the tackle proved too weak, the cables parted, and they went ashore. The unhappy crews, if they succeeded in landing, were stripped or slain by the natives, and such as the Irish spared were hanged by the English. This was in the days when Sir John Perrott had brought the country into something more approaching willing loyalty to the British crown. Ten years later, in the days of Red Hugh, any Spaniard who landed on this coast would have found a warmer welcome.

9. Wedding feast of Agnes Campbell and Turlough Luineach at Rathlin

   near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim

   Lady Agnes Campbell married Turlough Luineach, who succeeded Shane O'Neill as the O'Neill, at a great feast held on Rathlin Island. The celebration featured a whole fortnight of banqueting, underscoring the island's role as a Macdonnell stronghold.

   Read the passage

   of Ineen Dhu, Red Hugh's fierce mother — was then well advanced in years, but she could bring with her in dowry a great army of redshanks. So Turlough Luineach, who succeeded Shane as the O'Neill, wrote to express his willingness to wed with either mother or daughter. But the Lady Agnes Campbell, of whom Sir Henry Sidney wrote that she was "a grave, wise, well-spoken lady, both in Scotch, English, and French, and very well-mannered," preferred to give her daughter to Shane's vanquisher, the O'Donnell, and she herself married Turlough, at a great feast held in Rathlin, when there was a whole fortnight of banqueting.

   Such was the end of Shane the Proud ; such the tragedy enacted somewhere by this still standing fragment of wall.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 179

10. Lever Cottage where Harry Lorrequer was written

    near Port Stewart · town · Derry · 1837

    At Portstewart, a house called Lever Cottage is where Charles Lever wrote Harry Lorrequer while serving as dispensary doctor in 1837, his first book appearing in the Dublin University Magazine.

    Read the passage

    Go out from Coleraine then by the road that leads to Portstewart, past Agherton churchyard and rectory — any one will direct you— and you will have a last pleasant glimpse of the Bann running seawards ; a little further along, you are across the headland that runs out to the Bann mouth : Portstewart and the sand-hills are close on your left. A road turning to the left, about a quarter of a mile beyond Agherton rectory, will take you into the middle of them. From these sand-hills a road of about a mile long leads into Portstewart, running just inside of a low line of cliffs. Before you reach the town itself, you pass on your left a big modern building, Portstewart Castle ; and as you ride along the trim quay, with its row of houses, advertising lodgings to let, you will note one called Lever Cottage. That is where Harry Lorrequer was written. Lever was dispensary doctor at Portstewart in 1837, when his first book began to appear in the Dublin University Magazine. In these days, W. H. Maxwell, author of Stories of Waterloo, and other soldiering books, lived at Portrush ; the two men were close friends, and no doubt Maxwell's talk inspired Lever's early tales of Peninsular campaigning. Another man of letters lived at Portstewart in the last century, but born to a very different distinction from Lever's. This was Adam Clarke, who acquired a certain fame as a biblical commentator.

    From Portstewart, you have a road of three miles running along the sea to Portrush : and upon a fine day you have continuously a view of the Inishowen headlands across the mouth of Lough Foyle. If the weather is clear, Islay is to be seen

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 154

11. Limavady seat of the O'Cahan

    near Limavady · town · Derry

    O'Cahan, whose chief seat was at Limavady, was the principal urraght of O'Neill and held all the country between the Foyle and the Bann. When an O'Neill was proclaimed at Tullaghogue, O'Cahan tossed a shoe over his head.

    Read the passage

    If you had been crossing Lough Foyle in 1600, you would have left the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen— always disputed between O'Neill and O'Donnell — to come into the O'Cahan's or O'Kane's. O'Cahan, whose chief seat was at Limavady, was the principal urraght of O'Neill ; his country included all between the Foyle and the Bann ; and when an O'Neill was proclaimed at Tullaghogue it was the proud function of the O'Cahan to toss a shoe over his head. In 1600 the only trace of the English was the establishment of forts at Culmore and Deny by Sir Henry Docwra, which it seemed little likely they would hold good. Twenty years later the new order wras established. Sir Cahir O'Doherty had rebelled and Chichester was lord of his land in Inishowen. Tyrone had fallen ; in his forfeiture the O'Cahan had been involved ; and the whole country had been made over to twelve London companies — a grant of nearly 40,000 acres to 119 families. It was a black day for the native Irish : but it must be allowed that the new comers brought with them the arts of peace ; and the flax industry, which gave to Ulster what was once its most important crop, and which is still the predominant industry of its thriving towns, dates from the English settlement.

    East of the Bann begins the great Coast Road, down which you will travel, and this country of the Glens escaped " plantation " and therefore remains comparatively Celtic in character. When the O'Donnells and O'Neills went under, the third great house of Ulster, the Macdonnells, escaped, and were taken into high favour by James I., thanks to their Scotch blood. Randal Macdonnell was created Earl of Antrim and received a grant of the Glens and the Route, from the Curran of Larne to the Cutts of Coleraine. Yet, although this coastward strip from the neighbourhood of Coleraine to Larne has never been violently converted into the home of a Saxon and Protestant

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 150

12. Patrick baptises Eoghan at the Grianan of Aileach

    near Grianan of Aileach · monument · Donegal · 450

    Patrick travelled eastward to the Grianan of Aileach, which overlooks Lough Foyle and Lough Swilly, and there baptised Eoghan, founder of the Kinel Eoghan and first lord of Tyrone.

    Read the passage

    centuries after the coming of St. Patrick, when the land fell into such a habit of restful peace that the Danish sea rovers found its sea boundary easy prey. But the special saint of Tyrconnell was the greatest of all Irish saints after Patrick, St. Columba. In about 450 a.d. Patrick, on his missionary journey, crossed the Erne from Carbery in Sligo, where Cairbre, one of Niall's sons, had received him roughly ; but on the north bank, after he had passed by Assaroe and ascended Mullaghnashee, he found Conall Gulban sitting in council in the palace that the fairies had built him. Conall came to Patrick for his blessing, but Patrick turned from him and laid his hand first on the head of Conall's son Fergus. " For," he said, " of his lineage will be born a youth that is Columbkille." Then after baptising Conall and his household, Patrick went through Barnesmore Gap and turned northwards, but when he was on the top of Cark mountain, overlooking the Swilly, at a ford of the river Deele, which runs through Convoy, the axle of his chariot broke and when mended broke again. Then Patrick knew the sign and bade his people not wonder, for the land north of that river had no need of him : for a son should be born there who should be called " The Dove of the Churches " — Columbkille — who should bless the land to the northward. So he turned away eastward and made his way to the Grianan on Aileach which looks upon the Foyle and Lough Swilly, and there baptised Eoghan the founder of the Kinel Eoghan, and first lord of Tyrone.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 61

13. Barach's mansion on the shore of Moyle

    Moyle · townland · Donegal

    In the legend of the Sons of Usnach, King Conor directed Fergus to bring the exiles to the mansion of Barach on the shore of Moyle. Conor then arranged for Barach to offer Fergus a feast there, exploiting Fergus's vow never to refuse one.

    Read the passage

    And with that he took Conall Carnach into a place apart, and asked him "What would he do if the sons of Usnach should come over under his warranty and then be slain ? " " It is not one man's life should pay for that," said Conall, " but upon every Ultonian that had art or part therein I would inflict death." " I perceive," said Conor, " you are no friend of mine." Then he took Cuchullan and questioned him in like manner. " I pledge you my word," said Cuchullan, " that if this should come to pass I would slay every man of Ulster that my hands could reach." " You are no friend of mine," said Conor, and he drew Fergus apart and questioned him. " There is no man in Ulster should injure them," said Fergus, " but his life should pay for it, save only yourself." "It is you shall go for them," said Conor ; " and set you forth in the morning and bring them to the mansion of Barach, on the shore of Moyle, and pledge me your word that you send the sons of Usnach to Eman, so soon as ever they shall arrive, be it night or day with them."

    Then Conor went to Barach, and asked had he a feast ready for his king. " Ay," said Barach, "but I could not bring it to Eman." "Offer it to Fergus, then," said the king, when he returns from Alba ; for he is under gesa never to refuse a feast."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 167

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Moyle, Barach had his mansion on the shore. In the legend of the Sons of Usnach, King Conor wanted the exiles brought back from Alba, and he chose Fergus to fetch them. Conor told Fergus to bring them to this mansion and send them on to Eman as soon as they arrived. But Conor had a plan. He went to Barach and asked whether he had a feast ready. Barach said he did, but could not bring it to Eman. So Conor told him to offer it to Fergus instead, when he returned from Alba, because Fergus was under gesa never to refuse a feast. The trick was simple. Fergus had sworn never to turn down a feast, and Conor used that vow to delay him, leaving the sons of Usnach to travel on without Fergus's protection. Before all this, Conor had tested three men. He asked Conall Carnach what he would do if the sons of Usnach were slain after coming under his warranty. Conall said he would inflict death on every Ultonian who had part in it. Conor told him he was no friend of his. He asked Cuchullan the same. Cuchullan pledged he would slay every man of Ulster his hands could reach. Conor said he was no friend either. Then he drew Fergus apart, and Fergus said no man in Ulster should injure them but his life should pay for it, save only Conor himself. It was Fergus Conor sent.

14. William Allingham memorial tablet at Ballyshannon bridge

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal · 1824

    A tablet on the bridge over the Erne at Ballyshannon commemorates the poet William Allingham, born there in March 1824. As a young customs clerk he would hear Irish girls singing old ballads at their cottage doors during evening walks.

    Read the passage

    On the bridge you should notice a tablet to the memory of One of the few poets who have yet been born to English-speaking Ireland. William Allingham was born at Ballyshannon in March 1824. The son of a bank manager, he was at first put into the counting-house, but left that for a place in the customs, which gave him more leisure for poetry, on which his heart was set. He corresponded with Leigh Hunt, Coventry Patmore, and became an intimate friend of Rossetti, whose letters to him have lately been edited by Dr. Birkbeck Hill. Dr. Hill tells a story of Allingham's youth, related to him by Mr. Arthur Hughes ; " how in remote Ballyshannon, where he was a clerk in the customs, in evening walks, he would hear the Irish girls at their cottage door singing old ballads, which he would pick

    Ill

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Ballyshannon, there is a tablet on the bridge over the Erne for the poet William Allingham, born here in March 1824. His father managed the local bank, but Allingham went into the customs as a young clerk. The work gave him leisure for poetry, which was what he truly wanted. He corresponded with Leigh Hunt and Coventry Patmore, and became a close friend of Rossetti. Dr. Birkbeck Hill passed down a story from Allingham's youth, told by Mr. Arthur Hughes, of how in remote Ballyshannon, where he was a clerk in the customs, in evening walks, he would hear the Irish girls at their cottage doors singing old ballads, which he would pick up.

15. Adam Clarke of Portstewart

    near Port Stewart · town · Derry

    Adam Clarke, who acquired fame as a biblical commentator, lived at Portstewart in the last century, distinguished by a very different kind of distinction from Lever's literary fame.

    Read the passage

    Go out from Coleraine then by the road that leads to Portstewart, past Agherton churchyard and rectory — any one will direct you— and you will have a last pleasant glimpse of the Bann running seawards ; a little further along, you are across the headland that runs out to the Bann mouth : Portstewart and the sand-hills are close on your left. A road turning to the left, about a quarter of a mile beyond Agherton rectory, will take you into the middle of them. From these sand-hills a road of about a mile long leads into Portstewart, running just inside of a low line of cliffs. Before you reach the town itself, you pass on your left a big modern building, Portstewart Castle ; and as you ride along the trim quay, with its row of houses, advertising lodgings to let, you will note one called Lever Cottage. That is where Harry Lorrequer was written. Lever was dispensary doctor at Portstewart in 1837, when his first book began to appear in the Dublin University Magazine. In these days, W. H. Maxwell, author of Stories of Waterloo, and other soldiering books, lived at Portrush ; the two men were close friends, and no doubt Maxwell's talk inspired Lever's early tales of Peninsular campaigning. Another man of letters lived at Portstewart in the last century, but born to a very different distinction from Lever's. This was Adam Clarke, who acquired a certain fame as a biblical commentator.

    From Portstewart, you have a road of three miles running along the sea to Portrush : and upon a fine day you have continuously a view of the Inishowen headlands across the mouth of Lough Foyle. If the weather is clear, Islay is to be seen

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 154

16. Bann salmon fishing and servants' stipulation

    near River Bann · river · Derry

    The salmon fishing on the Bann was taken from the Earls of Antrim and became a lucrative revenue source for English proprietors. Old men recalled servants stipulating they should not be asked to eat salmon more than four days a week.

    Read the passage

    These are the modern interests of the town ; but it has a history too. St. Patrick having arrived in the neighbourhood, was offered a site for a church, and he chose a spot overgrown with ferns which some boys were then clearing. So was founded the church which came to be known as Coolrathen "the ferny corner." Columba visited it in 590, and from that date up till 1 122, we have records of the names of abbots who ruled the priory there. In 12 13, the English destroyed the monastery. Later on, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the Scots began to settle on the Antrim coast, Coleraine was the scene of battles between the Macdonnells and O'Neills. In 1 613, the whole of O'Kane's country was granted to London Companies, and from that time dates Coleraine's importance, though Coleraine itself came within the grant made to the Macdonnells. The salmon fishing on the Bann was taken away from the Earls of Antrim, and became a lucrative source of revenue to English proprietors ; though not so valuable as it is in these days of quick transport. Old men can remember a time when servants in this neighbourhood used to stipulate that they should not be asked to eat salmon more than four days a week !

    The populous English colony was, of course, an object of attack in times of rebellion. Coleraine stood a siege in 1641, and again in 1689 ; on the latter occasion, the garrison were

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 153

17. Battle of the Thorn near Letterkenny, 1567

    The Thorn · site · Donegal · 1567

    O'Donnell was posted on heights overlooking level ground now called the Thorn. The battle passed in the space enclosed between the Swilly and the Ramelton road, bounded east by Oak Park and west by Letterkenny. A cavalry skirmish by the foreshore delayed O'Neill's advance at a critical moment while the O'Donnell host was still assembling.

    Read the passage

    In 1567 Shane invaded Tyrconnell in great force. O'Donnell assembled his hosting at Ardingary, just near the town of Letterkenny. On May 8th Shane made a rapid advance upon them, and crossed the estuary of the Swilly about two miles below Letterkenny. O'Donnell was posted on the heights overlooking the level ground which is now called the Thorn. It should be said that owing to embankment and reclamations the Swilly is no longer fordable anywhere so far down as Ardingary, if fordable in the tideway at all. The whole battle passed in the space enclosed between the Swilly and the Ramelton road, bounded east by Oak Park, and west by Letterkenny. There was a cavalry skirmish somewhere down by the foreshore which delayed O'Neill's advance at a critical moment, for the O'Donnell host was only assembling. While

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    Right around here is the site of the Battle of the Thorn, fought in 1567. Shane O'Neill invaded Tyrconnell in great force that year, and O'Donnell assembled his hosting at Ardingary, just near the town of Letterkenny. On May 8th Shane made a rapid advance upon them, crossing the estuary of the Swilly about two miles below Letterkenny. O'Donnell was posted on the heights overlooking this level ground. The whole battle passed in the space enclosed between the Swilly and the Ramelton road, bounded east by Oak Park and west by Letterkenny. A cavalry skirmish down by the foreshore delayed O'Neill's advance at a critical moment, for the O'Donnell host was only still assembling.

18. Bushmills and the electric railway generating station

    near Bushmills · village · Antrim

    Bushmills lies on the main road between Dunluce and the Causeway, about four miles from Dunluce by a fairly level route. It is notable as the location of the generating station for the electric railway serving the Causeway area.

    Read the passage

    Leaving Dunluce and getting back on to the road, you proceed for about three-quarters of a mile round the shoulder of a hill, then you open the valley of the Bush river, lying between you and Runkerry Point. On the other side of Runkerry is the Causeway. Your simplest plan is of course to follow the main road past Bushmills (where is the generating station of the electric railway), altogether a fairly level run of four miles. But this road takes you inland by a considerable detour, and there is a much prettier way by the sea, which I recommend if the tide happens to be low. Just where you round the hill a steepish road runs to the left to the little village of Port Ballintrae, a coastguard station and watering place. Ride through the town keeping close to the sea, and the road will take you to the end of a new terrace : beyond that you have to contend with nature. Lift your machine over a stile and you are on a hillside of short grassy turf with a foottrack well marked across it ; this you can ride for the most part, and admire on the far side of the bay Lord Macnaghten's huge house, Runkerry Castle, standing bare and unprotected on the seaward slope. But it must not engage your whole attention or you may break the back of your machine. After about a quarter of a mile on the grass you come to another stile, and beyond it is the river Bush, flowing out into the sandy bay. About a hundred yards up to your right is a foot- bridge over the quiet, but pretty river, which winds sluggishly through sand-hills. I regret to say that in this river salmon are generally caught with the worm. Having got to the far side, wheel your machine along the river bank to the beach, and at low tide you will get a mile or more of fine hard sand to ride over. At the far side is a cart track, which you must lead over, and it will take you up to the road near the Causeway station and hotels. That was the plan which I had laid out for myself, but, the tide being in, I was reduced to riding my machine

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 161

19. Columba's birth at Gartan by divine monition

    Bellville or Gartan · townland · Donegal · 521

    Columba's mother Ethne went to Gartan for the birth of Columba in 521, acting on divine monition according to the chroniclers. Columba lived from 521 to 597 and was grandson's grandson to Conall Gulban.

    Read the passage

    Columba was born in 521 and lived to 597. He was son of a chief Feidilmid, and grandson's grandson to Conall Gulban. His mother was Ethne, who by divine monition, say the chroniclers, went to Gartan for the birth. His fosterers were the O'Ferghails (Freels) who lived at Kilmacrenan, then known as Doire Eithne (Ethne's Grove). After he came to be a youth he went to Strangford, where he studied under St. Finian. In those days Ireland was the great home of universities, an island remote from the wars that ravaged Europe, honoured for its scholars and resorted to by students from all lands. Columba

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 61

20. Donegal Castle and the Brooke confiscation

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1610

    Donegal Castle, with its mullioned windows and Jacobean architecture, stands as a monument of O'Donnell power. In 1610 the castle was granted to Sir Basil Brooke, whose carved stone mantelpiece arms remain in the banqueting hall.

    Read the passage

    But unless you come on May 27 you won't see a hiring fair in Donegal, and what will strike you at once will be a glimpse of the castle with its mullioned windows beautiful even in ruin. The river skirts its walls on the farther side though no ship of any tonnage could ever have come up so far. But a little way below the present quay are the ruins of the famous Franciscan abbey under whose auspices the Four Masters lived and wrote, and it has a regular landing-place. Close by it, embedded in the mud, may be seen the fluke of an immense anchor which according to local tradition was left there by a French vessel in 1798, which called in— presumably to inquire after Humbert's expedition — but beat a hasty retreat. Little is left of the Abbey except a few arches, but happily the castle remains for a monument of the O'Donnell power : though unhappily that magnificent piece of Jacobean architecture cannot be credited to Irish workmen. The great carved mantelpiece of stone preserved in the banqueting hall bears the arms of the Brookes, and reminds one only of confiscation, for in 1610 the castle was granted to Sir Basil Brooke. The architecture of the building, shattered as it is, may well put to shame anything of more modern date in the county. But of the exterior semblance of the Abbey — in which Tudor work has been added to the more ancient keep with its solid walls several feet in thickness — and of its picturesqueness I need not speak, as an illustration is far more convincing. Of its history I may say something.

    As far back as we know, Donegal — Dun-na-gal, the fort of the foreigners — was the seat of the O'Donnells. Hugh O'Donnell and his wife Fingalla, a lady of the O'Brien house of Thomond, completed in 1474 the Franciscan monastery which Nua'a O'Donnell, another pious lady, had already founded. In the days when Red Hugh was a captive, his father, Hugh O'Donnell the conqueror of Shane O'Neill, was worn cut and feeble, and an English force in 1593 seized an island in the harbour, occupied the Abbey and pillaged the country. It was just at this time

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Donegal, the castle catches the eye with its mullioned windows, beautiful even in ruin. The river skirts its walls on the farther side, and the building stands as a monument of the O'Donnell power, though the Jacobean architecture cannot be credited to Irish workmen. The great carved stone mantelpiece in the banqueting hall bears the arms of the Brookes, and in 1610 the castle was granted to Sir Basil Brooke, a reminder only of confiscation. A little way below the present quay are the ruins of the Franciscan abbey, under whose auspices the Four Masters lived and wrote. Close by, embedded in the mud, you can see the fluke of an immense anchor, which local tradition says was left by a French vessel in 1798 that called in, presumably to inquire after Humbert's expedition, then beat a hasty retreat. Donegal, Dun-na-gal, the fort of the foreigners, was the seat of the O'Donnells as far back as we know. Nua'a O'Donnell, a pious lady, founded the Franciscan monastery, and Hugh O'Donnell and his wife Fingalla, of the O'Brien house of Thomond, completed it in 1474. In 1593, when Red Hugh was a captive and his father Hugh was worn out and feeble, an English force seized an island in the harbour, occupied the abbey, and pillaged the country.

21. Enchanted calm on Horn Head cliff plateau

    near Horn Head · promontory · Donegal

    On a projecting plateau of Horn Head, when the wind blows off the sea, there is a dead calm at cliff-top level because the wind striking the concave cliff face is driven upward and back over itself. A light sod thrown outward goes a few yards then is whirled back over one's head.

    Read the passage

    up. Then suddenly as you walk out on this projecting plateau, making a long narrow strip of twenty yards by five or so — there is a dead calm — a stillness, as if enchanted, about you. Up in mid air there above the Atlantic, between you and the gale there is a wall of wind. If you take up a light sod of earth and fling it straight out it goes a few yards easily, then is suddenly caught up, whirled high, and driven back over your head. The wind striking the cliff face is driven up, and the curve takes it, as it were, back upon itself, so that this strong current makes a few feet of shelter — higher than a man's head — above the cliff top. It sounds incredible', but with a wind blowing at all fair on to the face of the Horn, you have only to test it for yourself.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 101

22. French prisoners landed at Rathmullen after capture

    Rathmullan · town · Donegal · 1798

    After the Hoche struck its colours, prisoners were landed at Rathmullen (or Buncrana, according to some accounts). The captured French ship was taken into Lough Swilly following the naval engagement.

    Read the passage

    Bompart's ship, carried away her main topmast, which in falling did further damage ; and as a forlorn hope they tried to escape by shifting their course and making to the south-west. Dawn found them virtually surrounded by the English fleet, and Bompart ordered his frigates and the Biche schooner to hold on and attempt escaping ; he himself had no chance to do so. The French officers begged Tone to transfer himself to the Biche, which had the best chance to escape — as she actually did — because his fate, if taken, would be certain execution. But Tone refused to fly while the French fought for his country, and commanded a battery in the action which followed. At seven o'clock, the Rosses bearing five leagues S.S.-W., firing began. The Hoche fought against four English vessels of her own size till reduced to a complete wreck. She struck at 11.20 a.m., and was taken into Lough Swilly. The prisoners were landed, according to one account at Rathmullen, according to others at Buncrana. Tone, in his French uniform, passed with the rest, till recognised at Letterkenny by a man who had been at college with him. He was taken to Dublin, tried by courtmartial, defended himself with dignity and courage, and when sentenced to be Ranged, only pleaded the right due to the uniform he wore as a general in the French army. But the Court, with needless severity, refused to treat him as an honourable enemy, and shoot him. Tone anticipated his fate by cutting his throat in prison with a pen-knife. Life was not extinct when he was found, and, incredible as it sounds, the authorities having caused the wound to be tied up so as to prolong life a few hours, proposed to proceed to hang him. This odious step was prevented by the energy of Curran, who obtained a writ of habeas corpus from the Lord Chief Justice, Lord Kilwarden, on the ground that if Tone was held to be a British subject, holding no military commission, a court-martial had no jurisdiction over him. Such was the lamentable but not ignominious end of a formidable enemy to the English rule in Ireland ; and since the Hoche

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 106

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along Rathmullan here in Donegal. In 1798, after the French ship Hoche struck her colours and was taken into Lough Swilly, the prisoners were landed here, though some accounts say it was Buncrana instead. The Hoche had fought against four English vessels of her own size until she was reduced to a complete wreck, and struck at 11.20 in the morning. Among the prisoners was Theobald Wolfe Tone, in his French uniform. He passed unrecognized with the rest of them until a man who had been at college with him spotted him at Letterkenny. The French officers had begged Tone to transfer to the Biche, the schooner with the best chance of escape, because if he was taken his fate would be certain execution. He refused to fly while the French fought for his country, and commanded a battery in the action. Taken to Dublin, he was tried by court martial and defended himself with dignity and courage. When sentenced to be hanged, he pleaded for the right due to his uniform as a general in the French army, but the court refused to treat him as an honourable enemy and shoot him. Tone cut his own throat in prison with a pen-knife. He was still alive when they found him, and the authorities had the wound tied up to prolong his life a few hours so they could proceed to hang him. That step was stopped only by Curran, who obtained a writ of habeas corpus from the Lord Chief Justice, Lord Kilwarden, on the ground that if Tone was a British subject holding no military commission, a court martial had no jurisdiction over him.

23. Grianan of Aileach — Eoghan's fortress

    near Grianan of Aileach · monument · Donegal · 450

    Eoghan held his fortress at the Grianan of Aileach, perched on the heights between Derry and Lough Swilly. St Patrick visited this site during his first missionary journey around 450 AD.

    Read the passage

    two lay Tyrone, stretching its power down to the very confines of the English pale at Dundalk. But the divisions were there long before England was a coherent nation. Niall of the Nine Hostages was King of Ireland from 379 to 405, and his eight sons cut themselves out principalities all over Ireland. The Hy-Niall, or sons of Neill, soon divided into a northern and southern branch ; and of the four sons who came north the two greatest were Eoghan and Conall, who because he was fostered on Gulbane mountain — now Benbulben — was called Conall Gulban. Conall made his home on Donegal Bay, and Eoghan upon the Inishowen hills, and from them descended the Kinel Conall and Kinel Eoghan, who ruled in Tyrconnell and Tyrone. Patrick in his first missionary journey, about 450 a.d , found and baptised Conall in his palace on the north bank of Erne ; and thence he made his way to the Grianan of Aileach, where Eoghan held his fortress perched on the heights that lie between Derry and Lough Swilly. Time went on, and the descendants of Niall fought either as foes or as allies. Together in the ninth century they drove out the Danes who attempted landings on Lough Foyle ; but oftener the Kinel Eoghan found the Kinel Conall driving their cattle or in their turn repelling a raid. About 950, the leaders of the two great clans adopted the practice of calling themselves the O'Neill and the O'Donnell. This use of surnames was soon rendered universal by a law of Brian Boru passed in 965, that every family should take a surname from some distinguished ancestor ; and so from that day begins the era of the Macs and Os. Sons of Donnell, sons of Niall, sons of Brian, and the rest.

    By this time Ireland was no longer only the land of the Irish. Danes had a strong footing there, and before long intestine sedition called in adventurers from Wales — for Strongbow and his people were Norman-Welsh. But neither Dane nor Norman found holding-ground in Tyrone or Tyrconnell, nor yet on the Antrim sea-board, except in the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 16

24. Humbert's landing and defeat at Ballinamuck

    near Ballinamuck · population centre · Longford · 1798

    In 1798, Humbert landed a thousand men in Connaught in a foolhardy venture during the Irish rebellion. After a brilliant struggle, his forces were surrounded and taken at Ballinamuck, with Matthew Tone, Wolfe Tone's brother, among them.

    Read the passage

    Yet though fortune had thus twice prevented him at the last moment, when it seemed absolutely certain that a large force would be landed to form a spear-head for the revolutionary forces which then existed through Ireland, from Belfast to Cork, Tone still persevered. In 1 798 came the outbreak, which, disorganised and unsupported as it wras, England had no easy task in crushing. Buonaparte was in Egypt ; but the Directory called on Tone to organise a new expedition. In mid- August, when the revolt was already quelled, Humbert, without waiting for instructions, set out from La Rochelle on his foolhardy venture, and landed his thousand men in Connaught, who after a brilliant struggle were surrounded and taken at Ballinamuck. Matthew Tone, Wolfe Tone's brother, was with him. Before the news of their defeat came, another expedition — one sail of the line with eight frigates — was sent out to support the wild stroke. Admiral Bompart took them far out west, and then came down from the north-west, making a course for Lough Swilly. But he had been dogged all the way from Brest by two English frigates, and they had sent word to Sir John Borlase Warren, who lay cruising with his main body off Malinmore Head, near Slieve League, while frigates scouted up as far as Tory. Bompart with his squadron was sighted on October nth, running southeast with a wind out of the north-west, and the signal for a general chase was made. The French altered their course due east, hoping to get clear round the north of Ireland. It was blowing a gale with a hollow sea, and in the night the Hoche,

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 105

25. John George Adair purchases Gartan estates

    Bellville or Gartan · townland · Donegal · 1857

    In 1857, John George Adair, a wealthy gentleman from Queen's County, purchased the Gartan estates, drawn by the beauty of Glen Veagh. Despite being a friend of Nationalist Sir Charles Gavan Duffy and a former tenant-right parliamentary candidate, he soon came into conflict with his tenants.

    Read the passage

    In 1857 Mr. John George Adair, a wealthy gentleman of Queen's County who had been taken with the beauty of Glen Veagh, bought up the Gartan estates. Mr. Adair was a friend of so well known a Nationalist as Sir Charles Gavan Duffy, editor of the famous Nation newspaper : he had stood for Parliament as a tenant-right candidate and is admitted to have been a kindly, well-meaning man. Unfortunately he at once came into

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 58

26. Kilmacrennan Abbey and the Coarb of Columbkille

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal

    The O'Donnell inauguration ceremony at Doon was performed by the Coarb or successor of Columbkille from the Abbey of Kilmacrennan. This succession remained in the family of the O'Ferghails, or Freels, who like Columbkille himself descended from Niall the Ardri. Father Freel, who consecrated Doon Well, belonged to this family.

    Read the passage

    The historic associations have something also of this legendary vagueness. Here was .the place where the O'Donnells were proclaimed lords of Tyrconnell ; here was the stone of inauguration where each chieftain was bound to stand before his clan, with feet set in the footprints hewn into the stone where the first chief of Tyrconnell had taken his station. The ceremony was performed by the Coarb or successor of Columbkille in the Abbey of Kilmacrenan ; and this succession remained in the family of the O'Ferghails, or Freels, who like Columbkille himself descended from Niall the Ardri. To this family Father Freel belonged, who consecrated the Well.

    So much is certain. But no one knows what has become of the inauguration stone, which, according to the Four Masters, was kept in the abbey ; whether, as some say, it was stolen, or, as others hold, it was broken up, as was the inauguration stone of the O'Neills at Tullaghogue. Accounts differ also as to the ritual of the ceremony. Giraldas Cambrensis, the Welshman who accompanied King John to Ireland, has left a wonderful story.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 72

27. Lord George Hill's home at Ballyarr on the Lennan

    Ballyarr · townland · Donegal

    Lord George Hill, the improving landlord of the Gweedore estate, lived at Ballyarr on the Lennan river. In earlier days tenants were said to be so loyal that if his horse broke down they would gladly draw his car the twenty miles back to his home.

    Read the passage

    But whether big or small the rent has never been easy to come by in Gweedore. In the old days, now unhappily almost forgotten — when one used to hear that if Lord George's horse broke down the tenants would gladly draw his car back the twenty miles to Ballyarr, on the Lennan, where he lived— things may have run smoother. But before he took the property rents were paid only as a sort of favour and collected only by stratagem. There is an amusing tale on record of a bailiff who swore that he would get the rent from a tailor who had never been known to pay rent, cess, or any other tax.

    " Having heard that the tailor had engaged a horse to go to Dunfanaghy to buy potatoes, the bailiff took the opportunity and boldly went to his wife for the rent. She assured him there was not one shilling in the house. But the bailiff, not wishing to be put off, told her that was not true : her husband had sent him for it : and if two years' rent was not paid at once they would get none of the land that was dividing. 1 And by the same token,' he said, ' the money is in the chest in his breeches pocket.' It was a lucky hit ; the wife never doubted, but ran to the chest, got out the breeches and gave the bailiff the two years' rent ; and off he went to the office. He had hardly paid it in when up came the tailor not able to speak for rage ; but when he got words, he wanted a warrant against the bailiff for robbery. The bailiff took no notice of him but coolly said to the agent, ' Och, yer honour, was not I the lucky man that happened for to say that it was in the breeches pocket.' "

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 93

28. Maurice Fitzgerald crosses the ford of Ballyshannon

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal · 1248

    In 1248, Maurice Fitzgerald led English-speaking invaders across the ford of Ballyshannon into Tyrconnell for the first time, coming as an ally to help Godfrey O'Donnell drive out a rival pretender. This marked the first penetration of English forces into Tyrconnell.

    Read the passage

    Here, too, history has been made ; for all this country of comparatively fertile land lay on the marches of Tyrone and Tyrconnell. Lifford, ten miles from Letterkenny, where the Finn and Mourne join to make the Foyle, was the frontier fortress, and the stream of war often passed the boundaries. In 1248 Godfrey O'Donnell was chief of the Kinel Conaill and for the first time in that year English-speaking invaders pierced the barriers of Tyrconnell. But they came as allies, Maurice Fitzgerald crossed the ford of Ballyshannon to help O'Donnell to drive out a rival pretender to the O'Donnellship. In 1257 Fitzgerald returned, this time as a foe, but O'Donnell crossed the Erne to encounter him and they met in the north of Sligo. The chieftains fought Homerically, hand to hand, and each gave the other a death wound, but victory rested with O'DonnelPs party. He was, however, too weak to pursue, and was carried off the field to rest in safety in a crannog, or artificial island stronghold, in the inaccessible Glen Veagh. This seemed to be the chance for the O'Neills, who always claimed lordship over Tyrconnell, and after a year word came to Godfrey O'Donnell on his sick bed bidding him submit. The old chief was dying but his spirit was strong in him. He sent the summons to his gallowglasses and kerne, and he bade carpenters make ready his coffin. In the coffin he made them lay him and, using it as a litter, carry him at the head of his forces against the O'Neill. They marched under this strange leadership past Lough Akibbon, down the Lennan valley and over the hills into Glen Swilly ; and on the Swilly the Kinel Owen were waiting for him. Tyrconnell attacked, and after a bitter fight drove back the invaders. They carried the chief, still living, along the Swilly into the street of Conwall, where the old ruins of an abbey still may be seen, a mile above Letterkenny ; they laid him down in his bier on the street; and here, say the Four Masters "his soul departed from the venom of the scars and wound which he had received in the battle of Creadran. This was not death in

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Ballyshannon. This town stands on the marches of Tyrone and Tyrconnell, and the stream of war often passed its boundaries. In 1248 Godfrey O'Donnell was chief of the Kinel Conaill, and for the first time in that year English-speaking invaders pierced the barriers of Tyrconnell. But they came as allies. Maurice Fitzgerald crossed the ford of Ballyshannon to help O'Donnell drive out a rival pretender to the O'Donnellship. It was the first penetration of English forces into Tyrconnell. In 1257 Fitzgerald returned, this time as a foe. O'Donnell crossed the Erne to encounter him, and they met in the north of Sligo. The chieftains fought hand to hand, and each gave the other a death wound, but victory rested with O'Donnell's party. He was too weak to pursue, and was carried off the field to rest in a crannog, an artificial island stronghold, in Glen Veagh. After a year the O'Neills, who always claimed lordship over Tyrconnell, sent word to Godfrey O'Donnell on his sick bed bidding him submit. The old chief was dying but his spirit was strong. He summoned his gallowglasses and kerne, and bade carpenters make ready his coffin. In the coffin he made them lay him, and using it as a litter they carried him at the head of his forces against the O'Neill. They marched past Lough Akibbon, down the Lennan valley and over the hills into Glen Swilly. The Kinel Owen were waiting for him on the Swilly. Tyrconnell attacked and after a bitter fight drove back the invaders. They carried the chief, still living, along the Swilly into the street of Conwall, where ruins of an abbey may still be seen, a mile above Letterkenny. They laid him down in his bier on the street, and there, as the Four Masters say, his soul departed from the venom of the scars and wound he had received in the battle of Creadran.

29. Monthly cloth fair at Ardara

    Ardara · town · Donegal

    On the last day of each month, people from across the region walked to Ardara carrying rolls of homespun cloth to the Congested Districts Board depot for inspection. The following morning a cloth fair took place, with buyers from Donegal, Killybegs, and Glenties, turning Ardara into a Gaelic-speaking town.

    Read the passage

    "The morning after the inspection, the first day of every month, the rolls of cloth are handed back to the owners, and if they have not been stamped, the nature of the faults and the proper remedy for them, which are recorded in the Inspection-book, are pointed out. Patterns of new and saleable designs are also distributed to all who desire them. Then the Fair begins. The rolls of cloth are laid down on the footway, on both sides of the road ; a great deal is brought in which was not finished in time for inspection ; buyers are present from the neighbouring towns of Donegal, Killybegs, and Glenties, and there are several in Ardara itself. There is the usual bargaining and haggling ; and Ardara, thronged with the mountain-folk, becomes for a time a Gaelic-speaking town. In two or three hours everything is disposed of, and generally at good prices ; for now that certain defects in workmanship have been overcome, this beautiful and unique fabric, stained with the soft, unfading colours produced by the people from common plants and mosses, is in great demand.

    " Of the native dyes, those principally used are 1 crotal ' and heather. Crotal is the Gaelic name for the grey lichen that grows on granite and certain other rocks in boggy districts. Boiled down with the wool it yields a dye, varying, according to the quantity used, from a pale buff to a very dark red brown. Heather gives a bright yellow. Peat soot is used for a brownish yellow dye, and the roots of the blackberry give a beautiful rich brown. Indigo and madder, which, of course, are bought in

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Ardara in Donegal. On the first day of every month, this town held a cloth fair that drew people from across the region. The morning began with rolls of homespun cloth handed back to their owners after inspection at the Congested Districts Board depot. If a roll had not been stamped, the faults and their remedies were pointed out from the Inspection-book, and patterns of new saleable designs were distributed to anyone who wanted them. Then the fair itself began. The rolls were laid down along the footway on both sides of the road, buyers arrived from Donegal, Killybegs, and Glenties, and several more were based in Ardara itself. The town thronged with mountain-folk and became, for a time, a Gaelic-speaking town. In two or three hours everything was disposed of, generally at good prices. The fabric was stained with soft, unfading colours produced from common plants and mosses, and was in great demand. The native dyes were chiefly crotal, the grey lichen that grows on granite in boggy districts, boiled down with the wool to yield colours from pale buff to dark red-brown. Heather gave a bright yellow, peat soot a brownish yellow, and the roots of the blackberry a rich brown.

30. Napoleonic signal tower at Malin Head

    near Malin Head · promontory · Donegal · 1803–1815

    A signal tower stands on a low hill of smooth green turf at Malin Head, one of the old signal towers erected about a hundred years before in Napoleonic times. Lloyd's signal station operates there, connected by telegraph wire to Liverpool, with two boys working signals and a semaphore communicating with the coastguard station.

    Read the passage

    Rhododendrons were in bloom there in quantities, and I noticed hydrangeas by a roadside cottage a little further on. The road, a fairly level one, follows the shore of Trawbreaga Bay, then turns inland, and after a good deal of winding uphill you see a long flat expanse below you with a low headland at the extremity, and that is Malin Head. You ride up to the coastguard station which is on the right of the Head ; continue along the road which skirts the sea on this side, although in parts you will have to dismount. Very soon you will see Lloyd's signal station. Ride as far as the road will take you, and then leave your bicycle in one of the houses and walk up to the tower. It stands on the top' of a lowish hill of smooth green turf. The tower itself is one of the old signal towers erected a hundred years ago in the Napoleonic times. Its only inhabitants are two boys, who spend their days there to work the signals. It is a lonely spot in all conscience, but the slender wire which runs up the hillside and in at the tower window, keeps it in constant and living intercourse with the great mart of Liverpool and the ingoing and outgoing of ships. Outside the tower is the flagstaff flying its signal, a red flag above a blue one with a white circle on it ' What ship is that ? ' And below them is the red and white pennon for answering signals. Beside that is a tall semaphore for signalling to the coastguard station. The Head proper lies about half a mile away to the west, and you ought to walk out there to see the cliff, which though not very high is a striking one, and the curious gap in the rocks where there is a continual inflow of water with no apparent outflow, locally called Hell's Hole. But the great beauty of Malin is the view looking up the west side of Inishowen and the mouth of Lough Swilly. Dunaff Head looks extraordinarily fine, and away in the background are all the Swilly hills on both shores. Looking westward the view is bounded by Horn Head, and on a clear day you can see Tory lying off it. Just north-east of Malin lies Inistrahull, where there is a lighthouse, much needed, for

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 135

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Malin Head, on a low hill of smooth green turf, stands one of the old signal towers put up in Napoleonic times. It is a lonely spot. Its only inhabitants are two boys who spend their days there working the signals. A slender wire runs up the hillside and in through the tower window, keeping it in constant touch with Liverpool and the ingoing and outgoing of ships. Outside, a flagstaff flies its signal — a red flag above a blue one with a white circle, asking "What ship is that?" — and below them hangs a red and white pennon for answering. Beside it stands a tall semaphore for signalling to the coastguard station. The Head proper lies about half a mile to the west, where the cliff, though not high, is a striking one. There is a curious gap in the rocks with a continual inflow of water and no apparent outflow, locally called Hell's Hole. The view up the west side of Inishowen and the mouth of Lough Swilly is the great beauty of Malin. Dunaff Head looks fine, and the Swilly hills rise on both shores. Westward the view is bounded by Horn Head, and on a clear day you can see Tory lying off it. Inistrahull lies just to the north-east, where there is a lighthouse, much needed.

31. Ossian's burial place on the hills of Glen Ariff

    near Glenariff · village · Antrim

    Local tradition holds that the bard Ossian, last survivor of the Sons of Finn and a central figure in Celtic legend and poetry, lies buried on the hills of Glen Ariff. Many dialogues are told between Ossian and St Patrick, in which the old bard taunts Patrick for the unwarlike pursuits of his following.

    Read the passage

    of these upper glens are deep in larch and hazel. And the country deserves such embellishment, no less than Killarney or the Wicklow Dargle : better indeed historically, for only a few miles inland from the head of this glen is Slemish, the mountain on whose slopes Patrick, as a captive, fed the pigs and sheep of the master whom he returned to convert ; and on the hills of the glen lies buried, so they say, the bard Ossian, last survivor of the Sons of Finn, whom Celtic legend and Celtic poetry loved to represent as surviving his kinsmen and lingering latest of the Fionna, till the days of Patrick. Many dialogues between the pair are told, and the Celtic bards do not give the worst of the encounter to the old bard-mage, who taunted Patrick with the unwarlike pursuits of his following and sighed for the days when men loved the whistle of blackbirds and the cry of hounds better than the tinkle of bells and the drone of masses.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 183

32. Protestant refugees from Coleraine flee to Derry

    near Coleraine · town · Derry · 1689

    As the Williamite war spread through Ireland, Protestants from across Ulster, including from Coleraine, fled into the walled city of Derry. By the beginning of the siege, the walls enclosed nearly 30,000 people.

    Read the passage

    carried out through his viceroy Tyrconnell, to have secured Catholic ascendency throughout Ireland. But, as Walker puts it in his story of the siege, " it pleased God so to infatuate the councils of my lord Tyrconnell " that he withdrew the soldiers who were in actual possession of Derry. Lord Antrim's regiment which was ordered to replace them was not ready, and did not reach its destination on the east bank of the Foyle till December 7th. Word had come to the aldermen of " some damnable design against the British of those parts," and the aldermen, after their fashion, deliberated. Two of Antrim's officers had crossed the Foyle, and were admitted within the gates to a parley. But in the meanwhile a company of the regiment had been ferried over and were marching on Ferryquay Gate (just south of the Diamond). The town was in a ferment and thirteen apprentice boys "drew their swords, ran to the main-guard, seized the keys without any great opposition, and came with them to the Ferry gate drew the bridge and locked the gate, the Irish soldiers having advanced within sixty yards of it." They then hastened to secure the other gates, and this action of theirs undoubtedly saved Derry to the Protestant cause. Lord Antrim's regiment drew off. At this time, according to Mackenzie's contemporary narrative, the whole number of fighting men in the town amounted to 300. But the next three months were full of events and the war of religions which spread through Ireland concentrated the Protestants of the north upon their sole surviving fortress. From Coleraine to LifTord they nocked in, until at the beginning of the siege the walls enclosed nearly 30,000 people.

    Ten thousand of these availed themselves of the permission to leave, and of those who remained nearly 8,000 were soldiers ; men with the virtues and confidence natural, as Macaulay points out, to a dominant caste. But Macaulay's dramatic story is apt to give the impression that the defenders of Derry were merely the citizens, men unused to warfare, stimulated to

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 143

33. Shane O'Neill's camp at Carricklea

    Carricklea · rock or rocks · Donegal · 1557

    In 1557, Shane O'Neill mustered a great army to march into Tyrconnell and pitched his camp at Carricklea, in the angle where the Finn and Mourne rivers join. Calvagh O'Donnell, advised by his father Manus, planned a surprise attack.

    Read the passage

    Each of their fathers, Con Bocagh O'Ncil and Manus O'Donnell, had submitted so far as to accept the title of Earl from an English king, though Manus never received his patent of nobility, and each ruled by usurpation ; Calvagh had imprisoned Manus, and claimed to be the O'Donnell; Shane had raised a faction against his elder brother (whom he accused of being no son of Con's) the Baron of Dungannon. Yet, for all this affinity, no love was lost between them, and in 1557 Shane mustered a great army to march into Tyrconnell, and pitched his camp at Carricklea, in the angle made by the junction of the Finn and Mourne. Calvagh O'Donnell, by his father's advice, planned a surprise, and so when Shane marched over the hill and encamped at Balleeghan (in the parish of Raymochy), on the eastern slope towards Lough Swilly, Calvagh sent two spies into his camp. They went safely by night from fire to fire till they came to "the great central fire which was at the entrance of the son of O'Neill's tent; and a huge torch thicker than a man's body was constantly flaming at a short distance from the fire, and sixty grim and redoubtable gallowglasses, with sharp keen axes, terrible and ready for action, and sixty stern and terrible Scots, with massive broad and heavy striking swords in their hands to strike and parry, were watching and guarding the son of O'Neill. When the time came for the troops to dine, and food was divided and distributed among them, the two spies whom we have mentioned stretched out their hands to the distributor like the rest ; and that which fell to their share was a helmetful of meal and a suitable complement of butter. With this testimony of their adventure they returned to their own people, and upon their exhibition of it their entire narrative was believed."

    The last touch is an odd one ; but the whole description is so graphic that I have been tempted to quote it. Calvagh had with him only thirty horses and two companies of gallowglasses from MacSwiney Fanad — always the backbone of O'Donnell

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 77

34. Sir Cahir O'Dogherty's castle at Burt

    Burt · parish · Donegal

    Sir Cahir O'Dogherty's castle at Burt, near Lough Swilly, stands to this day south of Inch Island. The McDevitts of Burt were Cahir's fosterers who had deserted Red Hugh O'Donnell and gone over to the English for Cahir's sake.

    Read the passage

    Sir Cahir O'Dogherty was chief of Inishowen, a district over which Red Hugh claimed lordship. On the death of Cahir's father, Hugh seized the boy, and wished to cause Phelim O'Dogherty, Cahir's uncle, to be proclaimed the O'Dogherty. But Cahir's friends and fosterers, the McDevitts of Birt, near Lough Swilly, appealed to Sir Henry Docwra, who held the new built forts of Culmore and Deny j and Docwra established Cahir as chief, and moreover bred the youth under his own eye in all courtly and warlike exercises, for a staunch supporter of the English. Cahir fought for his allies, was knighted, and in 1607 was foreman of the jury that pronounced the fugitive Earls to be traitors and their property forfeit. What more could an Irish noble do for the English? But Docwra was succeeded by Sir Henry Paulet, who mistrusted Cahir, and after many quarrels was rash enough to strike him. The O'Dogherty went back infuriated to his castle of Birt, which to this day stands south of Inch Island, looking over Lough Swilly, and there he plotted revenge with his fosterers the McDevitts — the clan who, for his sake, had deserted Red Hugh and gone over to the English. In April, 1608, he marched out with a following largely consisting of McDevitts, marched over the base of the Inishowen peninsula, took Culmore Fort on Lough Foyle either by treachery or surprise, garrisoned it with his own men, and advanced on Derry, which he sacked and burnt. Sir Henry Paulet paid with his life for the insult. Thence he proceeded to Lifford, at the junction of the Finn and Foyle, but failed to take it, and retreated into the fastness of Glen Yeagh.

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    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through the parish of Burt, in Donegal, along the shore of Lough Swilly. Sir Cahir O'Dogherty's castle still stands here, south of Inch Island, looking over the water. He was chief of Inishowen, a district Red Hugh O'Donnell claimed as his own. When Cahir's father died, Red Hugh seized the boy and tried to have Cahir's uncle Phelim proclaimed instead. But Cahir's fosterers, the McDevitts of Burt, appealed to Sir Henry Docwra, who held the forts of Culmore and Derry. Docwra established Cahir as chief and raised the young man under his own eye in all courtly and warlike exercises, shaping him as a supporter of the English. Cahir fought for his allies and was knighted. In 1607 he sat as foreman of the jury that declared the fleeing Earls traitors and their lands forfeit. Then Docwra was replaced by Sir Henry Paulet, who mistrusted Cahir, and after quarrels struck him. Cahir went back to his castle here, enraged, and plotted revenge with the McDevitts. In April 1608 he marched out, took Culmore Fort, sacked and burnt Derry, and Paulet paid with his life. He pressed on to Lifford but failed to take it and withdrew into Glen Yeagh.

35. Sussex attacks Rathlin again in 1588

    near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim · 1588

    In 1588 the island was again attacked by the English under Sussex. Elizabeth's counsellors advised claiming Rathlin for England, noting they had often burnt and wasted it, and that James might seek compensation.

    Read the passage

    In 1588 the island was again attacked by the English under Sussex, so that when a question was raised whether Rachray belonged rightfully to England or to Scotland, having been part of the old sovereignty of the Isles, Elizabeth's counsellors advised that it should be claimed for English, seeing that they had often burnt and wasted it, and James might be disposed to claim compensation. With the recognition of the Macdonnell as Earl of Antrim, Rathlin's troubles ceased for a little. But

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 173

36. Teelin as the only safe harbour on the rocky coast

    near Teelin · population centre · Donegal

    Teelin is the sole refuge for fishing yawls operating along this stretch of Donegal coast. Crews in row-boats fish for cod, ling, and mackerel but never venture far from Teelin because no other safe landing exists. The Congested Districts Board operated a curing station there and regulated fish prices.

    Read the passage

    and part of the serrated ridge is the One Man's Path. All the water you can see from here is the estuary winding down to Teelin Harbour, and beyond that the mouth of Donegal Bay with the Sligo mountains showing blue on the far side. The road goes on for a considerable way and turns into a path up which a donkey can travel ; I made the journey in company with a man who was going up to cut turf. Here in Glen Columbkille parish they get their firing free, but they have to go a far way for it in some cases. A few of the more fortunate can cut on their own farms : my companion had to ascend at least a thousand feet before he reached his own particular bog ; yet there are plenty less lucky than he, for they have not all donkeys to carry the sods. He was a fisherman by trade and belonged to the crew of a yawl, one of the row-boats which go out to fish for cod, ling, and mackerel off this rocky coast. They never go far from Teelin, as it is the only safe place to run to. Most of the fish caught in this way is sold to cadgers or travelling hawkers ; the Congested Districts Board make no objection to this trade provided the price given is at least sixpence a dozen above what they give at their curing station. For instance, if the Board's price is 5s. a dozen for ling, the men who deal with them must not sell ling to the cadgers under 5s. 6d. a dozen. My friend seemed to envy the more fortunate crews of smacks who take to the nets and go round to Galway Bay or Downings Bay in Sheephaven; but he had " an old father and mother that had no other son but him," and they objected to these protracted and risky cruises. On every smack is a crew of eight ; six Irish, and with them two Scotchmen, who are regularly retained by the Board at a fixed wage to teach the others how and where to shoot their nets and how to mend and keep them. It is a school of technical education and one sorely needed, for the Irish have never at any time used the sea for peace or war : and the men seem to take to it. I saw a gang of a dozen tramping in from Malinmore and Glen Columbkille to a day's net mending, after which they must tramp back the eight Irish miles ; for

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 42

37. Tempul Mor and the Abbey cashel at Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1161

    In 1161 the king and the abbot built a cashel, or circular wall, round the Abbey and erected the Tempul Mor or Great Church, which gives its name to the parish. Derry Cathedral is also a parish church.

    Read the passage

    general assembly of the clergy of Ireland, held in Meath, decreed that Flaherty Bradley, the coarb of St. Columbkille, should be supreme over all the abbots in Ireland, and three years later his chief, O'Loughlin, exacted tribute for him from them. In the next year the king and the abbot built a cashel, or circular wall, round the Abbey and set up the Tempul Mor or Great Church, which gives its name to the parish — for Derry Cathedral is also a parish church. Derry had need for fortifications, since, in 1 1 64, part of the town was again burnt. Three years later came Strongbow's invasion. But the English did not reach Derry till 1195, when they plundered the Abbey but were roughly handled in their retreat. Then came a period of anarchy, for the invasion had shaken the power of the native chiefs, and fire and sword raged everywhere. Six times in the next twenty-seven years Derry was either plundered or burnt ; the only satisfaction for the monkish chroniclers was to chronicle the miraculous fact that the plunderers, as a rule, met a violent death within twelve months. The miracle would have been their escaping it, so common was slaying in those days. Gradually, however, the first and partial conquest of Ulster established some show of order, and in 131 1 Derry was granted by Edward II. to Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, whose fortress still stands at Greencastle. The town was happy enough to have dull annals for the next two centuries, till the outbreak of Shane O'Neill. When Sir Henry Sidney marched against that redoubtable warrior, he sent seven companies of foot and a troop of horse by sea to Derry, to establish a fort in the rear of the enemy. The place was held for the English till 1588, when the explosion of a powder magazine shattered the whole fort and reduced the " Black Abbey and Tempul Mor Church " to ruins.

    The present cathedral does not occupy the site of either of these churches. They lay outside the walls of the English city, where a large Roman Catholic church now stands, approached by a lane called " Long Town "—a memorial of the Round

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 140

38. Ancient coal galleries between Murlough Bay and Glen Shesk

    near Murlough Bay · bay · Antrim

    When Hugh Boyd's workmen began working the coal-bed reaching from Murlough Bay to Glen Shesk in the eighteenth century, they came upon pre-existing galleries driven at a time when England was still barbarous and before Ireland became so, indicating ancient mining activity of considerable antiquity.

    Read the passage

    The town of Ballycastle is full of histories, but it has a comparatively modern past. In 1736 a Mr. Hugh Boyd obtained from the Earl of Antrim a lease of all coal and mines from Bonamargy, where the old abbey of Ballycastle stands, to Fair Head. Within twenty years Ballycastle was an industrial centre. Mr. Boyd started work upon the coal-bed which reaches from Murlough Bay to Glen Shesk ; and, oddly enough, his workmen came upon galleries which must have been driven when England was still barbarous, and before Ireland became so. He also built

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 164

39. Belfast shipbuilding and the Victoria Channel

    near Belfast · city · Antrim · 1861–1871

    After the Union, Belfast became the one Irish town to share in the industrial wealth produced by Free Trade. Its population rose from 119,242 to 207,671 between 1861 and 1871, and the great shipbuilding industry developed at an extraordinary pace. The Victoria Channel was cut at great cost to connect the quays directly to the sea.

    Read the passage

    Since 1800 Belfast has been a stronghold of the Protestant ascendency ; the gulf which separated Nonconformists from Churchmen in political sympathies has been bridged over. And Belfast certainly has reason to bless the union, for she is the one Irish town which has won a share in the great access of industrial wealth produced by Free Trade. Between t86i an 1 187 1 the population rose from 119,242 to 207,671. Since then the great shipbuilding industry has developed at an extraordinary pace. The Victoria Channel from the quays direct to the sea has been cut at great cost, and there

    XTX

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 187

40. Cahir O'Dogherty takes Culmore Fort

    near Culmore · town · Derry · 1608

    In April 1608, Sir Cahir O'Dogherty marched over the base of the Inishowen peninsula with a following largely consisting of McDevitts and took Culmore Fort on Lough Foyle, either by treachery or surprise, garrisoning it with his own men before advancing on Derry.

    Read the passage

    Sir Cahir O'Dogherty was chief of Inishowen, a district over which Red Hugh claimed lordship. On the death of Cahir's father, Hugh seized the boy, and wished to cause Phelim O'Dogherty, Cahir's uncle, to be proclaimed the O'Dogherty. But Cahir's friends and fosterers, the McDevitts of Birt, near Lough Swilly, appealed to Sir Henry Docwra, who held the new built forts of Culmore and Deny j and Docwra established Cahir as chief, and moreover bred the youth under his own eye in all courtly and warlike exercises, for a staunch supporter of the English. Cahir fought for his allies, was knighted, and in 1607 was foreman of the jury that pronounced the fugitive Earls to be traitors and their property forfeit. What more could an Irish noble do for the English? But Docwra was succeeded by Sir Henry Paulet, who mistrusted Cahir, and after many quarrels was rash enough to strike him. The O'Dogherty went back infuriated to his castle of Birt, which to this day stands south of Inch Island, looking over Lough Swilly, and there he plotted revenge with his fosterers the McDevitts — the clan who, for his sake, had deserted Red Hugh and gone over to the English. In April, 1608, he marched out with a following largely consisting of McDevitts, marched over the base of the Inishowen peninsula, took Culmore Fort on Lough Foyle either by treachery or surprise, garrisoned it with his own men, and advanced on Derry, which he sacked and burnt. Sir Henry Paulet paid with his life for the insult. Thence he proceeded to Lifford, at the junction of the Finn and Foyle, but failed to take it, and retreated into the fastness of Glen Yeagh.

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    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through Culmore, on Lough Foyle, where one of the most dramatic episodes in Donegal's history unfolded. Sir Cahir O'Dogherty was chief of Inishowen, raised under the eye of Sir Henry Docwra, who held the forts of Culmore and Derry. Cahir fought for his English allies, was knighted, and in 1607 served as foreman of the jury that declared the fleeing Earls traitors and their lands forfeit. But Docwra was replaced by Sir Henry Paulet, who mistrusted Cahir, quarrelled with him repeatedly, and was rash enough to strike him. Cahir went back to his castle at Birt, near Lough Swilly, and plotted revenge with his fosterers, the McDevitts. In April 1608 he marched over the base of the Inishowen peninsula with a following largely of McDevitts, took Culmore Fort on Lough Foyle either by treachery or surprise, and garrisoned it with his own men. He then advanced on Derry, which he sacked and burnt. Sir Henry Paulet paid with his life for the insult. From there Cahir proceeded to Lifford, at the junction of the Finn and Foyle, but failed to take it and retreated into the fastness of Glen Yeagh.

41. Carlyle's parting with Lord George Hill at Rathmullen

    Rathmullan · town · Donegal

    Thomas Carlyle, after visiting Lord George Hill's philanthropic experiment at Gweedore and Bunbeg, parted with him at Rathmullen and wrote that he had seen no such beautiful soul in all Ireland.

    Read the passage

    Go now and look at Bunbeg, which Carlyle saw, " a village perhaps of 300 or more, scattered distractedly among the crags," and judge between the man who denounced idleness, ignorance, slavish superstition, and the rest so eloquently, and the man who peaceably tried his philanthropic experiment. The store founded to supply articles, then not purchasable within twenty miles, found soon enough "the practical shopkeeper," who was still desiderated when Carlyle saw it ; no minerals have been worked ; but once the impulsion was given, work went on, and there was progress. Yet if Carlyle judged harshly here as elsewhere ; worse than harshly, with arrogance ; at least he knew a good man. Parting with Lord George a day or two later at Rathmullen he wrote :

    " In all Ireland, lately in any other land, saw no such beautiful soul."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 95

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Rathmullan in Donegal, you are on the ground where Thomas Carlyle parted with Lord George Hill, a day or two after visiting his philanthropic experiment at Gweedore and Bunbeg. Hill had founded a store to supply articles that could not be purchased within 20 miles, and Carlyle saw the village scattered among the crags, perhaps 300 or more people living there. Carlyle could judge harshly, with arrogance, denouncing idleness and ignorance and slavish superstition, yet he knew a good man when he met one. Writing of their parting at Rathmullan, he said: "In all Ireland, lately in any other land, saw no such beautiful soul."

42. Dr. Anthony Hastings, Rector of Kilmacrenan

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal

    Dr. Anthony Hastings, appointed by Trinity College Dublin to the living of Kilmacrenan, was a relation of Warren Hastings and a man of good birth with a famously broad brogue. He became the subject of more stories in that countryside than any other figure of his century, and is buried under the tower of the Franciscan abbey ruins.

    Read the passage

    you, and you can easily trace your line by following the river which keeps you the pleasantest of company, sometimes on your right, sometimes on your left. The telegraph wires show the way to Letterkenny, so you must take the first road that diverges from them to the left. Kilmacrenan itself is a pretty little village with a tributary stream— the Lurgy — flowing through it — and you can get lunch there. Suppose you order it at one of the two inns, you will have time to ride half a mile down the Rathmelton road and see the ruins of an old Franciscan Abbey that was built in the fifteenth century by the O'Donnells. Little of it is standing now, but enough to measure the extent, which was very considerable. The tower, which was fairly complete, with pointed windows in the top stage of it, is more recent, and under the tower is buried the most remarkable type of the old Irish clergy of the Established Church that any living man remembers. Dr. Anthony Hastings was appointed by Trinity College, Dublin, to Kilmacrenan, which was one of the old college livings which studded the whole of Ulster with huge barracks of houses. He was a relation of Warren Hastings and well come of on the mother's side ; if you had met him on the roads, so they say, you would have known him for a man of good birth and breeding ; but when he spoke to you — as he certainly would have done — you would have heard a brogue that even Irishmen marvelled at. It was part of his unique personality which has made him the subject of more stories in that countryside than any man who has lived there in this century. Happily there still lives a gentleman, old, alas ! in everything but mind, but most fit to preserve the traditions of the wit and humorist, who was the delight of his boyhood. Here is a story — one of many — that he told me of Dr. Hastings — but I wish you could have heard it from himself. One day when he was staying at Kilmacrenan he went down to the church to see his host marry a couple. There was a great assemblage, and the Doctor came in looking very grave in his surplice. The bride and bridegroom took their

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 67

43. Franciscan monastery ruins in Glenarm churchyard

    near Glenarm · village · Antrim

    Remains of a Franciscan monastery founded by the Bissets can still be traced in the churchyard at Glenarm. The brethren there were reportedly proud to trample on the dust of the great O'Neill.

    Read the passage

    " "With the leave of God this castle was built by Sir Randalle McDonnel, Knight, Erie of Antrim, having to wife Dame Aellis O'Neill, in the year of our Lord God, 1636. Deus est adjutor meus." And in the churchyard you can still trace the remains of the Franciscan monastery founded by the Bissets where the brethren were so proud to " trample on the dust of your great O'Neill."

    But the day from Cushendal will be considerably lengthened if you decide to see Glen Ariff, and it is one of the prettiest bits of what one may call artificial scenery in the kingdom. So that for your last day on this coast, if you are very energetic, you may ride from Cushendal, see Glen ArifT, which will take you

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 181

44. Greencastle ruin built by Red Earl of Ulster, 1313

    Greencastle · town · Donegal · 1313

    At Greencastle, three miles along the coast from Moville, stands the ruin of a castle built in 1313 by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. It represents a trace of the early grip gained on the northern province which was in a short time completely shaken off.

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    At Greencastle, three miles off on the coast— only two beyond Carnagariffe — is the ruin of a castle built in 13 13 by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster — a trace of that early grip gained on the northern province which in a short time was so completely shaken off.

    Lough Foyle cannot contend in beauty with Mulroy, Lough Swilly, or Sheephaven. Above Moville it is rather the estuary of a river than an arm of the sea. The hills that shut it in rise in gentle slopes, except the square mass of Benevenagh, nearly opposite Moville ; but they are richly wooded, and on a sunny summer's evening it is beautiful enough. Its most curious feature is the long spit of land called Magilligan Point, which runs out opposite Greencastle, reducing the width of Lough Foyle from eight miles to one.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 136

45. Jimmy the Wallopper, Dunfanaghy bird-catcher

    Dunfanaghy · town · Donegal

    A native of Dunfanaghy known by the by-name 'Jimmy the Wallopper' used to spend days on the rocks of Horn Head with a long pole, knocking down sea-birds as they flew over him so their feathers could decorate women's hats. His trade may or may not still exist, but his nickname was not forgotten in Dunfanaghy.

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    the most beautiful of these loughs or arms of ocean that indent the whole northern coast of Donegal. If you look at the map you will see that Lough Svvilly forms the base of a rough equilateral triangle, whose corners lie in Letterkenny, Dunaff Head, and Horn Head ; the whole space enclosed is a chequered network of land and water. Sheephaven lies broad and open to the sea, between Horn Head and the Rossgull promontory, which is capped by the peak of Ganiamore. One arm of the bay runs up past Dunfanaghy, making the square bulk of Horn Head all but an island. Another arm runs straight inland; and as you look up it from the bay the huge gable-end of Muckish seems to fill the whole view. The bay is everywhere shallow and sandy, and never anywhere have I seen such bright contrasts of colour. The sand is almost orange, and the great banks of it, dazzling in the sunlight, can be traced shading away into a salmon pink, where the blue water lips them. Here certainly you will be wise to stop a day, for Horn Head is not a thing to pass without seeing it. If the weather be fine I should advise a boat ; the cliffs, rising a sheer 600 feet, look their best from the water, and the myriads of sea-birds that build there and haunt it in all seasons are a sight in themselves; especially the quaint little puffins, funniest of all British birds, whether on the wing, the water, or the rocks. It is worth while taking a gun or something that will make a noise to scare the incredible swarms that come circling out from the cliffs. A native of Dunfanaghy used to spend days on these rocks with a long pole knocking down sea-birds as they flew over him, that their feathers might go to decorate pretty women. Whether his trade still exists I cannot tell, but his by-name, " Jimmy the Wallopper," is not forgotten in Dunfanaghy. Off the eastward point of Horn Head is a salmon net, fixed a couple of hundred yards from the cliffs, and stretching perhaps another two hundred. It seems a futile trap in a place where the bay opens eight miles ; but ' the fish have their known tracks in the sea, and that net two hundred yards further in or further out would,

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 99

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Dunfanaghy in Donegal, the bay of Sheephaven opens broad to the sea between Horn Head and the Rossgull promontory, capped by the peak of Ganiamore. One arm of the bay runs up past the town, making the square bulk of Horn Head all but an island. Another arm runs straight inland, and as you look up it the huge gable-end of Muckish seems to fill the whole view. The bay is everywhere shallow and sandy, and the writer of Highways and Byways in Donegal and Antrim says he never anywhere saw such bright contrasts of colour. The sand is almost orange, and the great banks of it, dazzling in the sunlight, shade away into a salmon pink where the blue water lips them. He says you will be wise to stop a day here, for Horn Head is not a thing to pass without seeing. The cliffs rise a sheer 600 feet and look their best from the water. Myriads of sea-birds build there and haunt it in all seasons, especially the quaint little puffins, which he calls the funniest of all British birds, whether on the wing, the water, or the rocks. A native of Dunfanaghy used to spend days on these rocks with a long pole, knocking down sea-birds as they flew over him, so that their feathers might decorate pretty women's hats. Whether his trade still exists, the writer cannot tell, but his by-name, Jimmy the Wallopper, is not forgotten in Dunfanaghy. Off the eastward point of Horn Head is a salmon net, fixed a couple of hundred yards from the cliffs and stretching perhaps another two hundred. It seems a futile trap where the bay opens eight miles, but the fish have their known tracks in the sea.

46. Red Hugh fostered with the MacSwineys of Doe

    near Sheep Haven · bay · Donegal

    Red Hugh O'Donnell was fostered among the MacSwineys of Doe on Sheep Haven. This fosterage bond meant the MacSwineys would stand by Red Hugh against any other O'Donnells, demonstrating the powerful and enduring nature of fosterage ties in Irish clan society.

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    supporter ; if the O'Donnell was weak, who so likely to lift his cows or raid his crops as the O'Dogherty ? The one tie which seemed to hold in spite of everything was that of fosterage. Every son of a chief was put out to be reared in the household of some other chief ; thus Shane O'Neill was bred among the O'Donnellys, Red Hugh among the MacSwineys of Doe on Sheephaven. Other O'Neills might turn upon Shane, other O'Donnells might make war upon Red Hugh, but the O'Donnellys would stand by Shane, and the MacSwineys by Red Hugh, while a man of the tribe had food to eat or blood to shed. This was an element of strength for the chieftain ; but every chiefs rival had fosterers too, and between loyalty to their fosterers and loyalty to the head of their clan, they would no more hesitate than did the McDevitts when Cahir O'Dogherty sought help from the English against Red Hugh. Treason to their country was an offence they hardly conceived of ; their duty to the fosterer was plain.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 19

47. River Erne as ancient boundary of Tyrconnell

    Assaroe · waterfall · Donegal

    The river between Belleek and Assaroe once formed the southern boundary of Tyrconnell, the lordship of the O'Donnells. Every ford along this stretch of water has seen battle.

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    piece of fishing water down the four miles of its course to Ballyshannon. There was a time when that river made the southern boundary of Tyrconnell, and every ford between Belleek and Assaroe has seen its battle. But you probably do not know exactly what Tyrconnell was, so while you are steaming down Lough Erne it will be a good moment to take a view of the State of Ulster as it was before the English set their ineffaceable stamp upon it.

    As you steam down Lough Erne, all the country to the right lying northward of you is Tyrone. Tir Eoghan — the province of Owen — was once a great principality, which stretched its frontier from the west of Lough Erne across Lough Neagh to the shores of the Channel by Belfast. In the days when Ireland had a fate of her own Tyrone was the country of the O'Neill. Centuries after Strongbow — centuries after the Norman invaders had become " more Irish than the Irish themselves," Tyrone was still undisputed to chiefs of the Gael. Then came a period of nominal vassalage when the O'Neill was also Earl of Tyrone, a noble created by the English crown : and, while the Tudors ruled, the chief of Irish chieftains wavered between his two dignities, until finally in the wavering both were lost and the fall of Hugh O'Neill, the last and greatest Earl of Tyrone, cleared the way for the Plantation of Ulster. It may simplify matters if I attempt the briefest and most summary sketch of the history of the latest subdued among Irish provinces.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Here at Assaroe, the river before you once marked the southern boundary of Tyrconnell, the lordship of the O'Donnells. Every ford along this water, from Belleek to here, has seen its battle. The passage turns to the wider State of Ulster as it was before the English set their stamp upon it. As you travel down Lough Erne, all the country to the right, lying northward, is Tyrone. Tir Eogain, the province of Owen, was once a great principality, stretching from the west of Lough Erne across Lough Neagh to the shores of the Channel by Belfast. In the days when Ireland had a fate of her own, Tyrone was the country of the O'Neill. Centuries after Strongbow, centuries after the Norman invaders had become "more Irish than the Irish themselves," Tyrone was still undisputed to chiefs of the Gael. Then came a period of nominal vassalage, when the O'Neill was also Earl of Tyrone, a noble created by the English crown. While the Tudors ruled, the chief of Irish chieftains wavered between his two dignities, until finally in the wavering both were lost. The fall of Hugh O'Neill, the last and greatest Earl of Tyrone, cleared the way for the Plantation of Ulster.

48. Salmon and hiding hole on the Lackagh River near Doe Castle

    near Lackagh River · river · Donegal

    The Lackagh River near Doe Castle is a salmon spawning river where fish arrive as early as March but do not ascend further upstream until September. A curious hiding hole exists under a rock above the first pool, partly built with masonry, where a fugitive once hid from police.

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    Here you turn sharp to the left, passing a pretty little lake, then ride on over rather a rough road with one very bad little hill on it, until after about three miles you come to a bridge over the Lackagh river. If it is a fine day and bright, you can get off your bicycle and look into the pool under the bridge. It is odds but you will see salmon lying there in packs with their sides touching one another ; at all events you will have a lovely view of the river, coming down through a heathy valley, with a little wooding on the left bank, and away behind it the intricate foldings of Lough Salt, Barnes Mountain, and the Glen Veagh hills. On the left bank, by the way, there is a curious thing to be seen if you can find any one to show it you, just above the first pool on the river. It is a hiding hole under a rock with a tiny aperture scarcely bigger than a rabbit burrow. Into this you can creep, and find yourself in a space large enough to move a little about in. The place has been partly made up with masonry, and they say that within living memory a " boy who had done a bad turn " of some sort, hid himself there for two or three nights while the police were on his track, and eventually escaped. About two miles up the course of the Lackagh — its whole course — lies Glen Lough, and into the top of Glen Lough flows the Owen Harrow, which you will re-

    XII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 107

    As the companion tells it

    The road brings you near the Lackagh River in Donegal. There is a bridge over it, and if the day is bright you can look into the pool beneath. You may see salmon lying there in packs, their sides touching one another. The fish arrive as early as March but do not ascend further upstream until September. The river comes down through a heathy valley, with a little wooding on the left bank, and away behind it the intricate foldings of Lough Salt, Barnes Mountain, and the Glen Veagh hills. On the left bank, just above the first pool, there is a curious thing to be seen if you can find someone to show it you. It is a hiding hole under a rock, with a tiny aperture scarcely bigger than a rabbit burrow. You can creep into it and find yourself in a space large enough to move a little about in. The place has been partly made up with masonry. They say that within living memory a boy who had done a bad turn of some sort hid himself there for two or three nights while the police were on his track, and eventually escaped. About two miles up the course of the Lackagh lies Glen Lough, and into the top of Glen Lough flows the Owen Harrow.

49. St Patrick founds Coolrathen church

    near Coleraine · town · Derry

    St. Patrick, having arrived in the neighbourhood of Coleraine, was offered a site for a church and chose a spot overgrown with ferns which boys were clearing. The church became known as Coolrathen, meaning 'the ferny corner.'

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    These are the modern interests of the town ; but it has a history too. St. Patrick having arrived in the neighbourhood, was offered a site for a church, and he chose a spot overgrown with ferns which some boys were then clearing. So was founded the church which came to be known as Coolrathen "the ferny corner." Columba visited it in 590, and from that date up till 1 122, we have records of the names of abbots who ruled the priory there. In 12 13, the English destroyed the monastery. Later on, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the Scots began to settle on the Antrim coast, Coleraine was the scene of battles between the Macdonnells and O'Neills. In 1 613, the whole of O'Kane's country was granted to London Companies, and from that time dates Coleraine's importance, though Coleraine itself came within the grant made to the Macdonnells. The salmon fishing on the Bann was taken away from the Earls of Antrim, and became a lucrative source of revenue to English proprietors ; though not so valuable as it is in these days of quick transport. Old men can remember a time when servants in this neighbourhood used to stipulate that they should not be asked to eat salmon more than four days a week !

    The populous English colony was, of course, an object of attack in times of rebellion. Coleraine stood a siege in 1641, and again in 1689 ; on the latter occasion, the garrison were

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 153

50. Turf cutting in Glen Columbkille parish

    Glencolumbkille · town · Donegal

    In Glen Columbkille parish, residents obtain their firing (fuel) for free but must travel great distances to cut turf, often ascending a thousand feet or more to reach their bogs. Some of the less fortunate have no donkeys to carry the sods home.

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    and part of the serrated ridge is the One Man's Path. All the water you can see from here is the estuary winding down to Teelin Harbour, and beyond that the mouth of Donegal Bay with the Sligo mountains showing blue on the far side. The road goes on for a considerable way and turns into a path up which a donkey can travel ; I made the journey in company with a man who was going up to cut turf. Here in Glen Columbkille parish they get their firing free, but they have to go a far way for it in some cases. A few of the more fortunate can cut on their own farms : my companion had to ascend at least a thousand feet before he reached his own particular bog ; yet there are plenty less lucky than he, for they have not all donkeys to carry the sods. He was a fisherman by trade and belonged to the crew of a yawl, one of the row-boats which go out to fish for cod, ling, and mackerel off this rocky coast. They never go far from Teelin, as it is the only safe place to run to. Most of the fish caught in this way is sold to cadgers or travelling hawkers ; the Congested Districts Board make no objection to this trade provided the price given is at least sixpence a dozen above what they give at their curing station. For instance, if the Board's price is 5s. a dozen for ling, the men who deal with them must not sell ling to the cadgers under 5s. 6d. a dozen. My friend seemed to envy the more fortunate crews of smacks who take to the nets and go round to Galway Bay or Downings Bay in Sheephaven; but he had " an old father and mother that had no other son but him," and they objected to these protracted and risky cruises. On every smack is a crew of eight ; six Irish, and with them two Scotchmen, who are regularly retained by the Board at a fixed wage to teach the others how and where to shoot their nets and how to mend and keep them. It is a school of technical education and one sorely needed, for the Irish have never at any time used the sea for peace or war : and the men seem to take to it. I saw a gang of a dozen tramping in from Malinmore and Glen Columbkille to a day's net mending, after which they must tramp back the eight Irish miles ; for

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Glencolumbkille in Donegal. The people here get their fuel for free, but the cost is the distance they must travel for it. Some of the more fortunate can cut turf on their own farms, but one man the writer met had to climb at least a thousand feet before he reached his bog. Others are less lucky still, because they have no donkeys to carry the sods home. That man was a fisherman by trade, part of a crew that went out in a yawl to fish for cod, ling, and mackerel off the rocky coast. They never went far from Teelin, as it was the only safe place to run to. Most of what they caught was sold to travelling hawkers. He envied the crews of smacks who sailed round to Galway Bay or Downings Bay, but he had, as he said, "an old father and mother that had no other son but him," and they objected to the long and risky cruises.

51. Allingham's evocative description of Ballyshannon

    Ballyshannon · town · Donegal

    The poet William Allingham describes his birthplace Ballyshannon as a small, out-of-the-way town on the extreme western verge of Europe, with a river rolling over rocky ledges into the tide, an ocean before it, a many-islanded lake behind, and blue mountains to the south. He recalls the sound of the river as a persistent humming voice day and night.

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    Here is Allingham's description of his birth-place. " The little old town where I was born has a voice of its own, low, solemn, persistent, humming through the air day and night, summer and winter. Whenever I think of that town I seem to hear the voice. The river which makes it rolls over rocky ledges into the tide. Before spreads a great ocean in sunshine or storm ; behind stretches a many-islanded lake. On the south runs a wavy line of blue mountains ; and on the north, over green, rocky hills, rise peaks of a more distant range. The trees hide in glens or cluster near the river; grey rocks and boulders lie scattered about the windy pastures. The sky arches wide over all, giving room to multitudes of stars by night and long processions of clouds blown from the sea, but also, in the childish memory where these pictures live, to deeps of celestial blue in the endless days of summer. An odd, out-of-the-way little town ours, on the extreme western verge of Europe ; our next neighbours, sunset way, being citizens of the great new republic, which indeed to our imagination seemed little, if at all, farther off than England in the opposite direction."

    But Allingham has celebrated his native town in a far more haunting medium than this graceful prose. I may be pardoned for reprinting what is too little known.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    We're coming into Ballyshannon now, the Donegal town where the poet William Allingham was born. He called it an odd, out-of-the-way little town on the extreme western verge of Europe. He said its next neighbours, sunset way, were citizens of the great new republic, which seemed to him little, if at all, farther off than England in the opposite direction. The town has a voice of its own, he wrote, words from the source, low, solemn, persistent, humming through the air day and night, summer and winter. Whenever he thought of that town he seemed to hear the voice. The river which makes it rolls over rocky ledges into the tide. Before spreads a great ocean in sunshine or storm. Behind stretches a many-islanded lake. On the south runs a wavy line of blue mountains, and on the north, over green, rocky hills, rise peaks of a more distant range. The trees hide in glens or cluster near the river. Grey rocks and boulders lie scattered about the windy pastures. The sky arches wide over all, giving room to multitudes of stars by night and long processions of clouds blown from the sea, but also, in the childish memory where these pictures live, to deeps of celestial blue in the endless days of summer.

52. Ballymagroarty: keeper of Columba's Cathach

    Drumhome · townland · Donegal

    Ballymagroarty, also known as Drumhome, was one of Columba's foundations in Donegal. The Cathach of Columba, a famous psalter which the saint copied from St. Finian's book, was kept there as an heirloom of the heads of Kinel Conaill.

    Read the passage

    was ordained and lived for a while in a monastery at Glasnevin near Dublin; thence he returned to his own country and founded his first monastery at Deny — the first of those many foundations which earned him his title Columbkille— they are too many to enumerate here; those in Donegal are Kilmacrenan — (that is Cill Macnenain — the church of the sons of Enain, who married Columba's sister Mincholeth) ; Gartan; Glen Columbkille; Tory island; Raphoe, Temple Douglas between Gartan and Letterkenny ; and Ballymagroarty (Drumhome) where the Cathach of Columba was kept.

    But this Dove of the Churches was no dove in disposition, and there were bitter feuds between him and Diarmaid the Ardri or High King of Ireland. A manslayer who sought sanctuary with Columba was dragged away and killed by Diarmaid's order, and in return for this Columba stirred up the northern Clan na Niall — the folk descended like himself from Niall of the Nine Hostages— and they defeated Diarmaid, head of the southern Clan na Niall, at Cooldrevny. Another quarrel arose over a matter of literary right. Columbkille was a great scribe, and is said to have made 300 copies of the New Testament with his own hand. He had copied also a Psalter from a book of St. Finian's, and much store was set upon it, for this became the famous Cathach. St. Finian claimed the copy as his own, the matter was referred to Diarmaid and Diarmaid laid down the law that, as the calf went with the cow, so the copy went with the book. It is not certain whether this second dispute was cause or consequence of the fight at Cooldrevny ; at all events Diarmaid's decision was disregarded, for the Cathach remained an heirloom with the heads of Kinel Conaill. The battle of Cooldrevny is always regarded as a youthful error of St. Columba's, and is said to have occasioned him bitter repentance. But it was not the only one which he provoked. The second also arose out of a quarrel with another saint — Comgall of Bangor — who claimed jurisdiction over a church at Rostorathair near Coolrath or Coleraine. Columbkille was

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 62

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Ballymagroarty, also called Drumhome, where Columba's famous Cathach was kept. Columba founded his first monastery at Derry, and that earned him his title Columbkille, the Dove of the Churches. His foundations spread across Donegal, from Kilmacrenan and Gartan to Glen Columbkille, Tory Island, Raphoe, and Temple Douglas between Gartan and Letterkenny, and this place. The Cathach was a psalter that Columba had copied from a book belonging to St. Finian, and much store was set upon it. It became a famous heirloom of the heads of Kinel Conaill. But this Dove of the Churches was no dove in disposition, and there were bitter feuds between him and Diarmaid, the High King of Ireland. A manslayer who sought sanctuary with Columba was dragged away and killed by Diarmaid's order. In return, Columba stirred up the northern Clan na Niall, the folk descended like himself from Niall of the Nine Hostages, and they defeated Diarmaid, head of the southern Clan na Niall, at Cooldrevny. Another quarrel arose over a matter of literary right. Columba was a great scribe, said to have made 300 copies of the New Testament with his own hand. He had copied a Psalter from St. Finian's book, and this became the famous Cathach. St. Finian claimed the copy as his own, and the matter was referred to Diarmaid. Diarmaid laid down the law in words that have lasted: "as the calf went with the cow, so the copy went with the book." It is not certain whether this second dispute was cause or consequence of the fight at Cooldrevny. At all events Diarmaid's decision was disregarded, for the Cathach remained an heirloom with the heads of Kinel Conaill. The battle of Cooldrevny is always regarded as a youthful error of Columba's, and is said to have occasioned him bitter repentance.

53. Bin of Fanad cliffs and Swilly Rock

    Fanad Head · promontory · Donegal

    A line of cliffs runs about six miles from Portsalon to Fanad Head, reaching its highest point at the square-cut precipice called the Bin of Fanad, with a fall of about 300 feet. Just off the Bin lies the Swilly Rock, the one obstacle to navigation in Lough Swilly, where the Saldanha frigate was lost with all hands.

    Read the passage

    To the left of the hotel a line of cliffs runs for about six miles out to Fanad Head, reaching their highest point in a square-cut precipice that is called the Bin of Fanad. It has a fall of about 300 feet. Just off the Bin is the one obstacle to navigation, the Swilly Rock, where, early in the century, the Saldanha frigate was lost with all hands, the only thing that came alive ashore being a grey parrot. A strange story is told in the Napier memoirs of Captain Pakenham who commanded this unlucky vessel. He was in the Peninsula when a command reached him to join his ship and sail with sealed orders. He confided to Napier that for the first time he was uneasy about his safety. It was borne in upon him, he said, that he would lose his life on this voyage, and that the place where he would lose it would be Lough Swilly in the North of Ireland. The forewarning was of no more use than one of Cassandra's, predictions.

    XII

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 114

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Fanad Head, the cliffs run about six miles from Portsalon and reach their highest point at the Bin of Fanad, a square-cut precipice with a fall of about 300 feet. Just off the Bin lies the Swilly Rock, the one obstacle to navigation in Lough Swilly. Early in the century, the Saldanha frigate was lost there with all hands, and the only thing that came alive ashore was a grey parrot. Captain Pakenham commanded that unlucky vessel. He was serving in the Peninsula when orders reached him to join his ship and sail with sealed instructions. He confided to Napier that for the first time he felt uneasy about his safety. He said it was borne in upon him that he would lose his life on this voyage, and that the place would be Lough Swilly in the north of Ireland. The forewarning, as the memoirs put it,

54. Clogh-i-neely execution stone at Ballyconnell

    Ballyconnell · townland · Donegal

    Balor beheaded chief MacKineely on a stone that still retains red marks. The large white quartz block, set on a raised platform ascended by steps, is preserved in the grounds of Ballyconnell House near Falcarragh.

    Read the passage

    your road to Rosapenna. But the fortress that will be always present before you as you walk round Horn Head is the natural stronghold of Tory Island, which lies seven miles out to the north-west, looking for all the world like some great towered and battlemented castle. Its name " Torach " means in Irish " towery " — tor is a tower — and much legend and many stories hang about it. It was owned, the legends say, by the Fomorians, a race of giants who lived in Ireland when Paris loved Helen and Troy was being sacked. There is on it a part of a ruined tower, built of undressed boulders of red granite, which Conaing, one of the Fomorians, built. The chief of the island was Balor of the Mighty Blows, and he, they say, carried off from the mainland, Glasgavlen, a famous cow that gave milk enough for a whole barony ; and when her owner, the chief MacKineely, plotted revenge, Balor crossed again, seized him and cut his head off on a stone which keeps the red marks to this day, and is treasured in the grounds of Ballyconnell, Mr. Olphert's place, near Falcarragh. It is a large block of white quartz placed on a raised platform ascended by steps. But in the Annals of the Four Masters a more romantic story is told. Balor was not only a giant but a monster with an eye in the back of his head ; and he had a daughter who, according to the prophecy, would bear a son that would be the death of him. So Balor kept his daughter shut up like Danae, but the chief Kineely made his way over in woman's dress, was taken in as one of her attendants, and in due time made love to the giant's daughter. The end was that a child was born, whom Balor threw into the sea; Kineely he pursued and cut his head off on Clogh-i-neely stone. But the child floated and was picked up on the coast by a smith, who reared the boy and bred him to his trade ; till one day, after many years, Balor came into the forge, and the boy seizing a red hot iron •ran it into Balor's eye and so avenged his father.

    A step nearer to history is marked by the ruins of churches on Tory, where Columbkill founded a monastery.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 102

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ballyconnell there is a large block of white quartz set on a raised platform reached by steps, preserved in the grounds of Ballyconnell House near Falcarragh. The stone still shows red marks, because according to legend Balor of the Mighty Blows, chief of Tory Island, cut off the head of chief MacKineely on it. Balor had carried off Glasgavlen, a famous cow that gave milk enough for a whole barony, and when MacKineely plotted revenge, Balor crossed to the mainland, seized him, and beheaded him on that stone. The Annals of the Four Masters tell a fuller version. Balor was a giant with an eye in the back of his head, and a prophecy said his daughter would bear a son who would kill him. So he kept her shut up, but Kineely came over in woman's dress, was taken in as one of her attendants, and a child was born. Balor threw the child into the sea and pursued Kineely, cutting his head off on the same stone. But the child floated, was picked up on the coast by a smith who reared the boy and bred him to his trade. Years later Balor came into the forge, and the boy seized a red hot iron and ran it into Balor's eye, avenging his father.

55. Columba's first monastery at Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry

    St. Columba was ordained at Glasnevin near Dublin, then returned to his own country and founded his first monastery at Derry. This was the first of many foundations that earned him the title Columbkille, meaning Dove of the Churches.

    Read the passage

    was ordained and lived for a while in a monastery at Glasnevin near Dublin; thence he returned to his own country and founded his first monastery at Deny — the first of those many foundations which earned him his title Columbkille— they are too many to enumerate here; those in Donegal are Kilmacrenan — (that is Cill Macnenain — the church of the sons of Enain, who married Columba's sister Mincholeth) ; Gartan; Glen Columbkille; Tory island; Raphoe, Temple Douglas between Gartan and Letterkenny ; and Ballymagroarty (Drumhome) where the Cathach of Columba was kept.

    But this Dove of the Churches was no dove in disposition, and there were bitter feuds between him and Diarmaid the Ardri or High King of Ireland. A manslayer who sought sanctuary with Columba was dragged away and killed by Diarmaid's order, and in return for this Columba stirred up the northern Clan na Niall — the folk descended like himself from Niall of the Nine Hostages— and they defeated Diarmaid, head of the southern Clan na Niall, at Cooldrevny. Another quarrel arose over a matter of literary right. Columbkille was a great scribe, and is said to have made 300 copies of the New Testament with his own hand. He had copied also a Psalter from a book of St. Finian's, and much store was set upon it, for this became the famous Cathach. St. Finian claimed the copy as his own, the matter was referred to Diarmaid and Diarmaid laid down the law that, as the calf went with the cow, so the copy went with the book. It is not certain whether this second dispute was cause or consequence of the fight at Cooldrevny ; at all events Diarmaid's decision was disregarded, for the Cathach remained an heirloom with the heads of Kinel Conaill. The battle of Cooldrevny is always regarded as a youthful error of St. Columba's, and is said to have occasioned him bitter repentance. But it was not the only one which he provoked. The second also arose out of a quarrel with another saint — Comgall of Bangor — who claimed jurisdiction over a church at Rostorathair near Coolrath or Coleraine. Columbkille was

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 62

56. Donegal etymology and the Franciscan monastery founding

    Donegal · town · Donegal · 1474–1593

    Donegal—Dun-na-gal, the fort of the foreigners—was the seat of the O'Donnells. Hugh O'Donnell and his wife Fingalla completed the Franciscan monastery in 1474, which Nua'a O'Donnell had already founded. In 1593 an English force seized an island in the harbour and occupied the Abbey.

    Read the passage

    As far back as we know, Donegal — Dun-na-gal, the fort of the foreigners — was the seat of the O'Donnells. Hugh O'Donnell and his wife Fingalla, a lady of the O'Brien house of Thomond, completed in 1474 the Franciscan monastery which Nua'a O'Donnell, another pious lady, had already founded. In the days when Red Hugh was a captive, his father, Hugh O'Donnell the conqueror of Shane O'Neill, was worn cut and feeble, and an English force in 1593 seized an island in the harbour, occupied the Abbey and pillaged the country. It was just at this time

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    As the companion tells it

    Donegal takes its name from Dun-na-gal, the fort of the foreigners, and it was the seat of the O'Donnells. Hugh O'Donnell and his wife Fingalla, of the O'Brien house of Thomond, completed the Franciscan monastery here in 1474, a house already founded by another pious lady, Nua'a O'Donnell. In 1593, while Red Hugh was a captive and his father was worn out and feeble, an English force seized an island in the harbour, occupied the Abbey, and pillaged the country.

57. Grey Man's Path haunted by spirit of Fair Head

    near Benmore or Fair Head · promontory · Antrim

    A great pillar of solid stone has fallen transversely over a fissure in the cliff at Fair Head. Under this runs the Grey Man's Path, haunted by the spirit of the Head, and the path is easy for any moderately active person.

    Read the passage

    Going on from Ballycastle, your next day is plainly mapped out ; you must see Fair Head and reach Cushendal, unless indeed you prefer to go in a boat round the head to Murlough Bay and walk back, an excellent suggestion which I find in Murray. But suppose you keep to dry land. You have about two miles of somewhat hilly road till you reach the little village of Ballyvoy, where there is a post office. Keep straight on up the hill, avoiding the road which runs inland to the right ; and a little higher up you will find a path running to the left up to some houses where you can leave your machine while you walk round the Head. It is an enormous round promontory, at the highest point 639 feet above the sea, and all of it basalt rock at top. As you look at it from the sea the likeness to a castle is extraordinary, for you have first a steep slope of shale, and then about halfway up the basalt springs from these lower strata in enormous upright columns, silhouetting against the sky the profile of buttresses, battlements, and towers. To get down to the sea you must follow the edge of the cliff till you reach a huge fissure where a slip seems to have occurred, and a great pillar, one solid stone, has fallen transversely over the chasm. Under this runs the Grey Man's Path, haunted by the spirit of the Head. The path itself is easy for any modei ately active person, and it is well worth going down

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 174

58. Gweedore before Hill's reforms

    near Gweedore · locality · Donegal

    Gweedore was a notoriously uncivilised district when Lord George Hill arrived; crossing the border was considered an adventure and visiting a fair required an escort. By the time of writing, the author describes Gweedore as transformed into a relative paradise compared to its former misery.

    Read the passage

    I have quoted this singular document in extenso not only because Lord George vouches for its accuracy, but because it gives a clear picture of what must have existed in the backward parts of Ireland, everywhere that the population relied solely on the potato. A certain number of the features remain constant. Ploughs are still probably scarce because the land is so rocky and fields so small. Scythes are not used, but in those days even the sickle seems to have been absent. Bare feet are still common ; and Donegal is one of the few places where a woman may yet be seen riding pillion behind her man. It is, however, an increasingly rare spectacle. But the whole condition of the peasantry is changed, as any one may see with a glance. Paddy M'Kye's list will be useful to any observer who thinks . them wretched at present. Poor enough they are, Heaven knows ! but Gweedore is a paradise to what Lord George Hill found it. It was even then a notoriously uncivilised district ; to cross the border was accounted an adventure, and to visit a fair in it required an escort. For the change it would be wrong to give the credit wholly to external agencies. The Irish people have been busily improving themselves since the schoolmaster was abroad, and if neither Lord George nor any other benevolent individual had helped, the countryside would still be very different from its misery of fifty or sixty years back. Still, it is at least equally certain that the improvement would have come more slowly but for Lord George ; it is by no means certain that without him it would have reached its present stage. Moreover, one of his early acts was to build a grain store at the port of Bunbeg, where the Clady river flows into the sea. The object of this was to put down the illicit whisky-making which was almost a necessity to the people. By the time they had taken their corn to the nearest market, they were almost obliged to take what they were offered rather than waste a journey of fifty miles ; whereas distillation paid better and was conducted on the spot. There was, per contra, the risk of seizure, which meant heavy

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Gweedore, in Donegal, a place that once had a hard reputation. When Lord George Hill first came here, it was a notoriously uncivilised district. To cross the border into it was accounted an adventure, and to visit a fair in Gweedore required an escort. The author of this book says that by his own time, Gweedore was a paradise compared to what Hill found. The whole condition of the peasantry had changed. He refers to a document by a man called Paddy M'Kye, which Lord George vouched for as accurate. It gives a picture of what existed in the backward parts of Ireland, everywhere the people relied solely on the potato. Ploughs were scarce because the land was so rocky and the fields so small. Scythes were not used, and even the sickle seems to have been absent. Bare feet were common, and a woman might be seen riding pillion behind her man. The author says it is still a rare sight in Donegal in his day. For the change, he says it would be wrong to give the credit wholly to external agencies. The Irish people had been busily improving themselves since the schoolmaster was abroad, and even without Lord George or any other benevolent individual, the countryside would still be very different from its misery of fifty or sixty years back. But the improvement would have come more slowly without Hill. One of his early acts was to build a grain store at the port of Bunbeg, where the Clady river flows into the sea. The object was to put down the illicit whisky-making, which was almost a necessity to the people. By the time they had taken their corn to the nearest market, they were almost obliged to take what they were offered rather than waste a journey of fifty miles. Distillation paid better and was done on the spot. Against that was the risk of seizure, which meant heavy loss.

59. Kilcar townland still held in rundal farming

    Kilcar · town · Donegal

    In Kilcar, three miles from Carrick, there is a whole townland where farms have never been 'squared' and the land is still held in the ancient rundal system of communal farming.

    Read the passage

    Cashel, the village in the valley, is, however, in the stream of affairs compared with the townland of Beevna, where Columbkille's chapel stands. It is separated from the rest of the glen by the river and the marsh, over which runs a causeway, and constantly in winter, and sometimes even in summer, tide covers this ; thus, the folk of Beevna who have no boats, have no way of communicating with society at all, except by a journey over the top of Sturrell or Craig Beevna and round by the head of the Glen. Altogether I felt that I had learnt much from my day, though the dense mist prevented sight-seeing, and we concluded with a dissertation on the theory of rundal, which was illustrated by reference to one or two plots in the Glen. It appears that in Kilcar, three miles from Carrick, there is a whole townland where the farms have never been " squared," and the land is still held in rundal ; for an explanation of the term you must see the chapter on Gweedore.

    I had tea — very good — at the little public, took my machine, wheeled it laboriously up a mile or so of hill ; found a level of a mile at top, then a generous descent of about four miles, the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along the road here, you are nearing Kilcar, three miles from Carrick. In this town there is a whole townland where the farms have never been squared, and the land is still held in rundal, the old communal system of farming. The author of this passage passed through the glen learning about that system, picking it up from one or two plots along the way, and for a full explanation of the term he sends you to his chapter on Gweedore. Nearby lies Cashel, a village in the valley, cut off from the rest of the glen by a river and a marsh crossed by a causeway. In winter, and sometimes even in summer, the tide covers that causeway, so the folk of Beevna, who have no boats, have no way of reaching the rest of society except by a long journey over the top of Sturrell or Craig Beevna and round by the head of the glen. The author said he had learnt much from his day, though dense mist prevented any sight-seeing. He had very good tea at the little public house here, then took his machine and wheeled it laboriously up a mile or so of hill, found a level stretch of a mile at the top, and after that a generous descent of about four miles.

60. Killydonnell Abbey, Franciscan ruin of the O'Donnells

    Killydonnell · townland · Donegal · 1558

    Killydonnell Abbey, close to Fort Stewart, was founded by an O'Donnell in the sixteenth century for Franciscan Brothers; its name means Church of the O'Donnells. Hugh Boy O'Donnell died there in 1558 in the odour of sanctity, as his father Hugh Duv had died in Donegal Abbey.

    Read the passage

    That was not the only struggle between the two great clans fought out on the Swilly shores. If you leave the Ramelton road at Ballymaleel, three miles from Letterkenny, and turn to the right, the road takes you along the eastern arm of the lough, and here you pass the places of several gentry, set among fine wooding on the south-west shore. The first of them, Oak Park, belongs to the YVray family, who date from the earliest forfeitures in Tyrconnell. John Wray, for his services against the Earls, received in 1603 1000 acres near Letterkenny, and his descendants are there yet ; though Castle Wray, the next place to Oak Park, is now in the hands of the Mansfield family, who were among the settlers in 1610 after the Plight of the Earls ; and Ards, the great and beautiful Wray estate, at Dunfanaghy, passed from its owners three generations ago. Next to Castle Wray is Castle Grove, then Ardrummon, another house of the Mansfields ; and next to that again Fort Stewart, an estate which is still held by the lineal representative of one of James I.'s baronets; but the old mansion stood near the adjoining house of Shellfield. All these prosperous Protestant gentry represent the descendants of those who came in when the disaster at Kinsale and the final crash of 1607, left Ulster with neither an O'Neill nor an O'Donnell to resist the English. But there is trace of the older nobility and the older creed in the ruins of Killydonnell Abbey, close to Fort Stewart, which an O'Donnell founded in the sixteenth century for the Franciscan Brothers : (Killydonnell means the Church of the O'Donnells). In 1558 Hugh Boy O'Donnell (the Fair) died there in the odour of sanctity, as his father, Hugh Duv, (the Dark) had died in the Donegal Abbey. But in this very same year Calvagh O'Donnell, the redoubtable son of Manus, to whom the Earldom of Tyrconnell was offered for the first time, had attacked the still more redoubtable Shane O'Neill. Shane and Calvagh should have been friends, for their positions were very similar.

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 76