Highways and byways in Donegal and Antrim;

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. O'Dogherty of Inishowen as O'Donnell's vassal

   near Inishowen · townland · Donegal

   The O'Dogherty of Inishowen was a key supporter of the O'Donnell when the O'Donnell was strong in Donegal. But when the O'Donnell was weak, the O'Dogherty was the most likely to raid his cattle or crops, illustrating the fragile loyalty of urraghts or vassals.

   Read the passage

   The whole principle of succession in Ireland was that loose and ill-defined half-hereditary system which one finds everywhere among martial and semi-barbarous tribes. The chief was theoretically elected by the clan from the princely family ; and while he lived his tanist or successor was theoretically recognised ; but practically when it came to elections the strong hand decided. Hence there was never a clan but had in it some dependent prince who either was plotting his way to chieftainship and ready at all times to clear rivals from the path by any means, or else was aggrieved at having been passed over. Further, the urraghts or vassals of the ruling clan were often of doubtful loyalty. If the O'Donnell was strong in Donegal, the O'Dogherty of Inishowen was his trusty

   II

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 18

2. Return of the Cathach to Newport

   Newport · town · Mayo · 1800–1899

   After being kept in a Belgian monastery for a time, the Cathach relic was restored to the O'Donnells of Newport in Tyrconnell by an Irish abbot in the nineteenth century.

   Read the passage

   Daniel O'Donnell guarded the Cathach carefully, but at last thought better to leave it in the custody of a Belgian monastery — probably the Irish convent at Louvain. He left instructions that it should be given up to whoever could prove himself to be the chief of the O'Donnells. There it remained till in this century an Irish abbot thought it should go back to Tyrconnell, and restored it to the O'Donnells of Newport, in

   VIII

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 64

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Newport in Mayo, you're near where the Cathach relic finally came home. Daniel O'Donnell had guarded it carefully, but eventually left it in a Belgian monastery, probably the Irish convent at Louvain. He gave instructions that it should go to whoever could prove himself chief of the O'Donnells. It stayed there until an Irish abbot decided it should return to Tyrconnell, and restored it to the O'Donnells of Newport.

3. Sacrilege at Rathmullan

   Rathmullan · town · Donegal

   An unnamed figure (described as paying the penalty for sacrilege) committed acts of sacrilege at Rathmullan and Tory Island before being slain by Ulick Burke on his return to Connaught. This event is linked to the broader political turmoil involving Red Hugh O'Donnell's campaigns.

   Read the passage

   Four Masters, soon paid the penalty of his sacrilege at Rathmullen and Tory, for he was slain on his return to Connaught by Ulick Burke, who thereupon delivered up the town of Sligo to Red Hugh. O'Donnell immediately reinstated in their lands all those chiefs whom Bingham had expelled in his very oppressive government. It was a demonstration to the world that the lords of Ulster meant no ordinary rising, but a systematic sweeping away of the English from Celtic Ireland. By the end of the year, O'Donnell had broken down near a score of the castles in Connaught ; he had named new chiefs of the great clans, Burkes, O'Dowds, Macdonaghs and Macdermots ; he held hostages from them all ; and he was a greater power in Connaught than Elizabeth's Governor. It was time for the English to take thought ; and they sent the Earl of Ormond and the Archbishop of Cashel to make terms. They offered to the Earls the entire " province of Conchobar," that is, Ulster except the tract between Dundalk and the Boyne; Carrickfergus, Carlingford and Newry were to remain trading outposts ; all sheriffs were to be withdrawn, except in the towns named, and Connaught was to have similar privileges. But Tyrone, RedHugh, and their council "having reflected, for a long time, upon the many that had been ruined by the English since their arrival in Ireland, by specious promises, which they had not performed, and the number of Irish high-born princes, gentlemen, and chieftains who came to premature deaths without any reason at all, except to rob them of their patrimonies," decided to reject the peace. Elizabeth then sent 20,000 men into Ireland, and Sir John Norris marched into Connaught at the head of a great hosting. O'Donnell marched out too, but the armies only watched each other. The English took the wise step of recalling Sir Richard Bingham and his relatives, and substituting Sir Conyers Clifford " a far better man than he." Nevertheless, in 1597, Red Hugh carried his men to the very gates of Galway and returned across the Erne, routing on his way the O'Conor of Sligo, who attacked him with a body of English and Irish troops. But, in the same

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 122

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up through Rathmullan in Donegal. The Four Masters recorded that an unnamed figure committed sacrilege here, and at Tory Island as well. He paid for it, the annals say, for he was slain on his return to Connaught by Ulick Burke, who then delivered the town of Sligo up to Red Hugh O'Donnell. That act fed straight into the wider storm. Red Hugh reinstated all the chiefs whom Sir Richard Bingham had expelled during his oppressive government, and by the end of the year O'Donnell had broken down near 20 castles in Connaught, named new chiefs among the Burkes, O'Dowds, MacDonaghs and MacDermots, and held hostages from them all. He stood as a greater power in Connaught than Elizabeth's governor. The English tried to make terms, offering the earls the entire province of Ulster except the tract between Dundalk and the Boyne, with Carrickfergus, Carlingford and Newry kept as trading outposts. But Tyrone, Red Hugh and their council, having reflected, as the source puts it, on "the many that had been ruined by the English since their arrival in Ireland, by specious promises, which they had not performed," rejected the peace. Elizabeth then sent 20,000 men into Ireland, and in 1597 Red Hugh carried his men to the very gates of Galway before returning across the Erne, routing the O'Conor of Sligo on the way.

4. Shane O'Neill defeats Clandonnell at Ballycastle

   near Ballycastle · town · Antrim · 1565

   In 1565, Shane O'Neill defeated the Clandonnell forces at Ballycastle. This was a fiercer fight than the later 1585 siege of Cushendun, which Sorley Boy had also witnessed.

   Read the passage

   A few yards lower again you see too, a pretty, square, low built house standing almost on the water's edge. In the lawn between it and the road stands a fragment of some old building, now a mass of ivy. Quiet and peaceable as the place looks now, there was wild work done there. Donnell Gorme Macdonnell was besieged there by the English in 1585, when his father Sorley, then close on eighty, landed in the bay with his following of redshanks and drove off the besiegers. But Sorley Boy had seen a fiercer fight twenty years before that, when Shane O'Neill defeated the Clandonnell forces at Ballycastle. That was in 1565. Three years earlier the English government knew no worse enemy than Shane O'Neill, and was disposed to favour the Macdonnells in the hope to be rid of him. But in 1563 Shane came to terms, went boldly over to London, and there so impressed Elizabeth with his fierce presence, his following of wild Gallowglasses and his masterful demeanour, that she was ready to concede him all he demanded ; he might be the O'Neill and welcome, and Earl of Tyrone to that. Shane came back to Ulster prouder than ever, and set to work to show his zeal, as he said, for the Queen's cause; and how better could he do that than by driving out the

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   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 177

5. Shane O'Neill's defeat and escape via ScarirThollis ford

   Letterkenny · town · Donegal · 1567

   Thirteen hundred of Shane O'Neill's men were left dead on the field or in the rising tide. Shane himself escaped westward guided by O'Gallaghers, up the Swilly river, and crossed at a ford called ScarirThollis about two miles west of Letterkenny, then made his way by lonely passes to Tyrone.

   Read the passage

   As for Shane himself, he escaped westward, guided by some O'Gallaghers, up the Swilly river, and crossed at a ford called ScarirThollis, about two miles west of Letterkenny, and made his way by lonely passes to Tyrone, whence, in an evil hour, he threw himself on the protection of the Antrim Macdonnells, and so met his fate at Cushendun.

   So that upon the whole, what between Godfrey O'Donnell's march to victory in his coffin — borne on the heads of gallow-

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 80

   As the companion tells it

   Passing through Letterkenny, you are near the route of Shane O'Neill's escape after his defeat. He fled westward guided by O'Gallaghers, up the Swilly river, and crossed at a ford called ScarirThollis, west of the town. He made his way by lonely passes to Tyrone, then "in an evil hour" threw himself on the protection of the Antrim Macdonnells, and met his fate at Cushendun.

6. The twelve cross slabs of Glen Columbkille

   Glencolumbkille · town · Donegal

   Within a three-mile range in Glen Columbkille, there are twelve ancient stone crosses. These erect stone slabs are carved with Celtic designs and are shown to visitors by local guides.

   Read the passage

   English people when they hear this suppose that it is some sort of joke ; but the historic fact remains that, from the beginning of the sixth century to the end of the eighth, Ireland was the University of Europe just as Greece was in the late days of the Roman Republic. Si monumentum quarts, circumspice. John Gillespie, who showed me over the place, will no doubt do the same for you if you ask him ; he is lame, but to judge from my experience can tire out most walkers on our mountains. He will show you first the nearest of twelve "crosses" which are set within a range of three miles in the Glen. These crosses are erect stone slabs graved with Celtic designs — which an illustration can best make familiar. Some of them are greatly

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   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 47

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Glencolumbkille in Donegal, you are in a glen where twelve ancient stone crosses stand within a range of three miles. A local guide named John Gillespie can show them to you. He is lame, but he can tire out most walkers on the mountains. The crosses are erect stone slabs carved with Celtic designs. The book notes that Ireland was the university of Europe from the beginning of the sixth century to the end of the eighth, and says, if you seek a monument, look around you.

7. Bunglass viewpoint on the Slieve League cliffs

   Bunglass · bay · Donegal

   Bunglass is a horse-shoe bend or bight in the three-mile cliff face of Slieve League. From this point the full glory of Slieve League is visible, with blue water a thousand feet below and the opposite cliff rising a thousand feet higher.

   Read the passage

   there is no place in Malinmore or Glen where a smack can find refuge, and even row-boats, if there be any ground-swell, are hard set to it to get in without a shattering. These details, I confess, seemed to me more interesting than scenery, and when my acquaintance broke off to show me a slab called the Giant's Grave with some old wives' story attached to it, I headed him off antiquities. But when one reached the cliff edge and saw the sea a thousand feet below and the Connaught coast stretching away in its interminable line, one felt there was something to be said for scenery. Carrigans Head is below on the left, where stands one of the old signal towers, which communicates with Malin-beg, that with Glen Head, and so on. From this brow the grassy path runs level for a bit along the cliff edge till you come to the side of Bunglass — a sort of horse-shoe bend or bight in the three miles of cliff, and from this you see Slieve League in all its glory. About a thousand feet below you is the blue water, bright green round the rock base, and breaking upon what seems to be smooth fine sand, but really consists of water-worn pebbles big as your two fists. About a thousand feet higher than you stand rises the cliff on the far side of the bay, and its seaward front shows a singular variety, red and yellow in streaks, beside the greys and browns, for Slieve League is not granite. But the extraordinary beauty of the scene was given by a sight which must be common at that point. It was blowing half a gale, the bay was full of spindrift, and the sun striking on this made a rainbow right below us, arched against sea and cliff. I never realised what intensity of colour was before.

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 43

8. Cuellar's journey to Dunluce

   Dunluce · townland · Antrim · 1588–1589

   After his stay with MacClancy, Cuellar escaped secretly and travelled east for twenty days through the mountains of Donegal and Derry until he reached Dunluce, where he heard news of further Spaniards.

   Read the passage

   Cuellar's stay with MacClancy seemed likely to come to an end, when Fitzwilliam came down, hanging all Spaniards, and punishing their harbourers ; MacClancy decided that he, as a chief who paid no Queen's rent, must fly ; but Cuellar undertook to remain with the other Spaniards and hold the castle on Lough Melvin which is still there. Fitzwilliam came to the lough side with a large force but failed to make the Spaniards surrender, and was driven away by a heavy fall of snow. Cuellar's reputation now stood so high that MacClancy was unwilling to let him go ; so he escaped secretly and made his way east, travelling for twenty days through the mountains of Donegal and Derry till he got to Dunluce, where he heard of

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 39

9. Eoghan's stronghold on the Inishowen hills

   near Inishowen · townland · Donegal · 379–405

   Eoghan, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, established his territory on the Inishowen hills. From him descended the Kinel Eoghan, who ruled in Tyrone.

   Read the passage

   two lay Tyrone, stretching its power down to the very confines of the English pale at Dundalk. But the divisions were there long before England was a coherent nation. Niall of the Nine Hostages was King of Ireland from 379 to 405, and his eight sons cut themselves out principalities all over Ireland. The Hy-Niall, or sons of Neill, soon divided into a northern and southern branch ; and of the four sons who came north the two greatest were Eoghan and Conall, who because he was fostered on Gulbane mountain — now Benbulben — was called Conall Gulban. Conall made his home on Donegal Bay, and Eoghan upon the Inishowen hills, and from them descended the Kinel Conall and Kinel Eoghan, who ruled in Tyrconnell and Tyrone. Patrick in his first missionary journey, about 450 a.d , found and baptised Conall in his palace on the north bank of Erne ; and thence he made his way to the Grianan of Aileach, where Eoghan held his fortress perched on the heights that lie between Derry and Lough Swilly. Time went on, and the descendants of Niall fought either as foes or as allies. Together in the ninth century they drove out the Danes who attempted landings on Lough Foyle ; but oftener the Kinel Eoghan found the Kinel Conall driving their cattle or in their turn repelling a raid. About 950, the leaders of the two great clans adopted the practice of calling themselves the O'Neill and the O'Donnell. This use of surnames was soon rendered universal by a law of Brian Boru passed in 965, that every family should take a surname from some distinguished ancestor ; and so from that day begins the era of the Macs and Os. Sons of Donnell, sons of Niall, sons of Brian, and the rest.

   By this time Ireland was no longer only the land of the Irish. Danes had a strong footing there, and before long intestine sedition called in adventurers from Wales — for Strongbow and his people were Norman-Welsh. But neither Dane nor Norman found holding-ground in Tyrone or Tyrconnell, nor yet on the Antrim sea-board, except in the

   Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 16

10. Kilmacrenan Franciscan Abbey Ruins

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal · 1400–1499

    Half a mile down the Rathmelton road from Kilmacrenan village stand the ruins of a Franciscan abbey built in the fifteenth century by the O'Donnells. Little now remains standing, but enough to measure its considerable original extent; a more recent tower with pointed windows survives, under which Dr. Anthony Hastings, a remarkable rector of the Established Church, is buried.

    Read the passage

    you, and you can easily trace your line by following the river which keeps you the pleasantest of company, sometimes on your right, sometimes on your left. The telegraph wires show the way to Letterkenny, so you must take the first road that diverges from them to the left. Kilmacrenan itself is a pretty little village with a tributary stream— the Lurgy — flowing through it — and you can get lunch there. Suppose you order it at one of the two inns, you will have time to ride half a mile down the Rathmelton road and see the ruins of an old Franciscan Abbey that was built in the fifteenth century by the O'Donnells. Little of it is standing now, but enough to measure the extent, which was very considerable. The tower, which was fairly complete, with pointed windows in the top stage of it, is more recent, and under the tower is buried the most remarkable type of the old Irish clergy of the Established Church that any living man remembers. Dr. Anthony Hastings was appointed by Trinity College, Dublin, to Kilmacrenan, which was one of the old college livings which studded the whole of Ulster with huge barracks of houses. He was a relation of Warren Hastings and well come of on the mother's side ; if you had met him on the roads, so they say, you would have known him for a man of good birth and breeding ; but when he spoke to you — as he certainly would have done — you would have heard a brogue that even Irishmen marvelled at. It was part of his unique personality which has made him the subject of more stories in that countryside than any man who has lived there in this century. Happily there still lives a gentleman, old, alas ! in everything but mind, but most fit to preserve the traditions of the wit and humorist, who was the delight of his boyhood. Here is a story — one of many — that he told me of Dr. Hastings — but I wish you could have heard it from himself. One day when he was staying at Kilmacrenan he went down to the church to see his host marry a couple. There was a great assemblage, and the Doctor came in looking very grave in his surplice. The bride and bridegroom took their

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 67

11. Lough Salt mountain and its deep tarn

    near Lough Salt · lake or lakes · Donegal

    On the far side of Lough Salt lies a tarn of surprising depth—240 feet—into which the cliff falls sheer from near the summit. This combination gives the mountain its name, Lough agus Alt ('the Lough and the Crag'), of which 'Lough Salt' is a corruption. The author once saw an eagle on the summit, the only one he ever saw in Donegal.

    Read the passage

    On the other side of Lough Salt is a tarn of surprising depth — 240 feet — into which the cliff falls sheer from near the summit, and this gives the mountain its name, Lough agus Alt, the Lough and the Crag, of which Lough Salt is a corruption. But for the present you have not to go up the Lough Salt road, unless you are energetic — and indeed it is well worth your while, for the view over Sheephaven to the west, and Mulroy and Lough Swilly on the east, is among the finest in the county. Moreover, the only time I was on top of Lough Salt an eagle came and flapped round me, within twenty yards, as I lay in the heather, the only one of these birds I ever saw in Donegal. Supposing, however, that you leave Lough Salt unvisited, you will proceed up the Dunfanaghy road for about half a mile from Kilmacrenan, when you come at the top of a sharp hill to some cottages and trees, and a road running to the left. That is the road for you to take ; and in one of these

    io6 THE ROAD TO DOON WELL chap.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 70

12. Murlough Bay coal workings abandoned

    near Murlough Bay · bay · Antrim

    Coal mining at Murlough Bay repeatedly failed despite attempts to reorganise the workings, because the seams slant downward and the coal lies at a deep level. The output could have been shipped directly from the quarry mouth, but the ventures never succeeded.

    Read the passage

    wrote in 1786 a book on County Antrim, the first that drew attention to its scenery and curiosities. Mr. Boyd was then a few years dead : but already "the glass-works were neglected, the breweries and tanneries mismanaged, the harbour became choked up with sand, and even the collieries not wrought with such spirit." The collieries, unhappily, have gone the way of the rest. The coal is at a deep level, and the seams slant downward instead of upward ; and though, even within late years, attempts have been made to reorganise the workings at Murlough Bay— where the output could be shipped from the quarry mouth— they have always failed : and the neighbourhood remains neither enriched nor disfigured by the forces of modern industry.

    The great days of Ballycastle, however, were under the Macdonnells. The Franciscan Abbey of Bonamargy was, and still is, their sanctuary and burying place. The ground of the cemetery, as Mr. Hill, their historian, puts it, " literally heaves with Clandonnell dust." Here were buried those who fell in the disastrous overthrow of Clandonnell, at the hands of Shane O'Neill in 1565 : and here, too, were buried those who died in the great fight at Slieve-an-Aura up in Glen Shesk, where the Macdonnells finally put an end to the resistance of the older lords the McQuillans. They tell a story of a clansman who went to the Countess of Antrim asking the lease of a farm.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 165

13. O'Doghertys of Inishowen: the bush saying

    near Inishowen · townland · Donegal

    Inishowen was the country of the O'Doghertys, and a local saying persisted that you cannot beat a bush in Inishowen without starting an O'Dogherty, reflecting the density of the clan's descendants in the peninsula.

    Read the passage

    Most of the shores of Lough Erne were under the O'Donnell influence in the great days of Tyrconnell. Enniskillen and Fermanagh were the country of the Maguire who stood loyally by Red Hugh. North by Pettigo Sir Owen O'Gallagher was lord, and he was the marshal of the O'Donnells. South-west of the Lake the MacClancy's country stretched towards Lough Melvin, on which a few Spaniards under Captain Cuellar held out in a castle after their shipwreck in a vessel of the Armada. The river Erne was the frontier of the O'Donnell's own country, and across it ran the highway from Connaught into Tyrconnell, passing through Bundoran and Ballyshannon. All the north of Donegal from the Rosses to Fanad was held by the three divisions of the MacSwineys. Inishowen was the country of the O'Doghertys, and to this day they say you cannot beat a bush in Inishowen without starting an O'Dogherty.

    The other highway into Tyrconnell led by LirTord across the fords of the Mourne and Finn ; thence there was a road through Barnesmore Gap to Donegal, which is now followed by a line of rail. Another led by Raphoe to the fords of the Swilly near Letterkenny. It must be remembered that bridges did not exist in this country in the days of Elizabeth ; but except for roads and bridges there is probably no great change in the face of Tyrconnell from Red Hugh's day to ours. It was not a fully civilised country in the days when it had a history ; it is not over-civilised now. Indeed in the business of looking up the local traditions, a certain malapropism has often come into my mind. A gentleman proposed to enlighten the town of Ramelton upon the history of its surroundings, and his lecture on " Irish Antiquities " was duly advertised. One day in the street an old woman who kept a stall on fair days came up to him. " So, your Reverence, you're going to give us a lecture on Irish iniquities. Faith, and there's plenty of them any way."

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 20

14. Protestant refugees from Lifford flee to Derry

    Lifford · townland · Donegal · 1689

    As the Williamite war spread through Ireland, Protestants from across Ulster, including from as far west as Lifford, fled into the walled city of Derry. By the beginning of the siege, the walls enclosed nearly 30,000 people.

    Read the passage

    carried out through his viceroy Tyrconnell, to have secured Catholic ascendency throughout Ireland. But, as Walker puts it in his story of the siege, " it pleased God so to infatuate the councils of my lord Tyrconnell " that he withdrew the soldiers who were in actual possession of Derry. Lord Antrim's regiment which was ordered to replace them was not ready, and did not reach its destination on the east bank of the Foyle till December 7th. Word had come to the aldermen of " some damnable design against the British of those parts," and the aldermen, after their fashion, deliberated. Two of Antrim's officers had crossed the Foyle, and were admitted within the gates to a parley. But in the meanwhile a company of the regiment had been ferried over and were marching on Ferryquay Gate (just south of the Diamond). The town was in a ferment and thirteen apprentice boys "drew their swords, ran to the main-guard, seized the keys without any great opposition, and came with them to the Ferry gate drew the bridge and locked the gate, the Irish soldiers having advanced within sixty yards of it." They then hastened to secure the other gates, and this action of theirs undoubtedly saved Derry to the Protestant cause. Lord Antrim's regiment drew off. At this time, according to Mackenzie's contemporary narrative, the whole number of fighting men in the town amounted to 300. But the next three months were full of events and the war of religions which spread through Ireland concentrated the Protestants of the north upon their sole surviving fortress. From Coleraine to LifTord they nocked in, until at the beginning of the siege the walls enclosed nearly 30,000 people.

    Ten thousand of these availed themselves of the permission to leave, and of those who remained nearly 8,000 were soldiers ; men with the virtues and confidence natural, as Macaulay points out, to a dominant caste. But Macaulay's dramatic story is apt to give the impression that the defenders of Derry were merely the citizens, men unused to warfare, stimulated to

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 143

15. Sligo delivered to Red Hugh O'Donnell

    Sligo · town · Sligo

    Ulick Burke slew the figure responsible for sacrilege at Rathmullan and Tory, then delivered the town of Sligo to Red Hugh O'Donnell. O'Donnell immediately reinstated all the chiefs whom the oppressive governor Bingham had expelled from their lands.

    Read the passage

    Four Masters, soon paid the penalty of his sacrilege at Rathmullen and Tory, for he was slain on his return to Connaught by Ulick Burke, who thereupon delivered up the town of Sligo to Red Hugh. O'Donnell immediately reinstated in their lands all those chiefs whom Bingham had expelled in his very oppressive government. It was a demonstration to the world that the lords of Ulster meant no ordinary rising, but a systematic sweeping away of the English from Celtic Ireland. By the end of the year, O'Donnell had broken down near a score of the castles in Connaught ; he had named new chiefs of the great clans, Burkes, O'Dowds, Macdonaghs and Macdermots ; he held hostages from them all ; and he was a greater power in Connaught than Elizabeth's Governor. It was time for the English to take thought ; and they sent the Earl of Ormond and the Archbishop of Cashel to make terms. They offered to the Earls the entire " province of Conchobar," that is, Ulster except the tract between Dundalk and the Boyne; Carrickfergus, Carlingford and Newry were to remain trading outposts ; all sheriffs were to be withdrawn, except in the towns named, and Connaught was to have similar privileges. But Tyrone, RedHugh, and their council "having reflected, for a long time, upon the many that had been ruined by the English since their arrival in Ireland, by specious promises, which they had not performed, and the number of Irish high-born princes, gentlemen, and chieftains who came to premature deaths without any reason at all, except to rob them of their patrimonies," decided to reject the peace. Elizabeth then sent 20,000 men into Ireland, and Sir John Norris marched into Connaught at the head of a great hosting. O'Donnell marched out too, but the armies only watched each other. The English took the wise step of recalling Sir Richard Bingham and his relatives, and substituting Sir Conyers Clifford " a far better man than he." Nevertheless, in 1597, Red Hugh carried his men to the very gates of Galway and returned across the Erne, routing on his way the O'Conor of Sligo, who attacked him with a body of English and Irish troops. But, in the same

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 122

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through the town of Sligo, it is worth knowing that this place was once delivered into the hands of Red Hugh O'Donnell. Ulick Burke, having slain the man whose sacrilege had dishonoured Rathmullan and Tory, handed the town over to Red Hugh. O'Donnell immediately reinstated all the chiefs whom the governor Bingham had expelled during his oppressive rule. It was a sign that the lords of Ulster meant no ordinary rising but a systematic clearing of the English from Celtic Ireland. By the end of that year, O'Donnell had broken down near a score of castles in Connaught, named new chiefs among the Burkes, O'Dowds, Macdonaghs and Macdermots, held hostages from them all, and stood as a greater power in Connaught than Elizabeth's own governor. The English sent the Earl of Ormond and the Archbishop of Cashel to offer terms, granting Ulster except the land between Dundalk and the Boyne, with trading outposts at Carrickfergus, Carlingford and Newry. But Tyrone, Red Hugh and their council, reflecting on how many had been ruined by English promises never kept, and how many Irish chieftains had met premature deaths for no reason except to rob them of their lands, rejected the peace. Elizabeth sent 20,000 men. Sir John Norris marched into Connaught, and O'Donnell marched out, but the armies only watched each other. In 1597 Red Hugh carried his men to the very gates of Galway and on his return across the Erne routed the O'Conor of Sligo, who attacked him with a body of English and Irish troops.

16. The Bishop's Palace, Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry

    A huge red-brick palace on the north side of the street to Bishopsgate was constructed by the Earl of Bristol. It was suited to a prelate with revenues of £12,000 a year rather than the modest salary of a disestablished church.

    Read the passage

    Close to the cathedral is the central square of the city, " the Diamond," from which the streets fall sharply away north, east, and south. Here are gathered the principal public buildings, which, however, have little interest for a stranger. In the centre of the Diamond stands the Corporation Hall, now changed to other uses, which replaced the original wooden one knocked to pieces by the bombardment. The street running west leads to Bishopsgate, a triumphal arch erected in 1789 to commemorate the raising of the siege. On the north side of this street is the palace, a huge red-brick building, constructed by the Earl of Bristol, and more suitable for a prelate whose revenues reached ^£12,000 a year than for the modest salary with which a disestablished church rewards its divines. The cathedral has been modernised, and nothing in the town, except the wralls, speaks even of a moderate antiquity, much less of a Celtic origin ; yet Derry, unlike Belfast, has a history stretching far back into the past.

    Derry is the Irish Daire, an oak grove, and its oldest name was Daire Calgach, the grove of Calgach. It stood in what was then Tir Ely, or the province of Aileach, and there can be little

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 138

17. The Hoche taken into Lough Swilly after surrender

    near Lough Swilly · estuary · Donegal · 1798

    After the naval battle in which the Hoche fought four English vessels and was reduced to a wreck, the ship struck and was taken into Lough Swilly. Wolfe Tone commanded a battery during the action.

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    Bompart's ship, carried away her main topmast, which in falling did further damage ; and as a forlorn hope they tried to escape by shifting their course and making to the south-west. Dawn found them virtually surrounded by the English fleet, and Bompart ordered his frigates and the Biche schooner to hold on and attempt escaping ; he himself had no chance to do so. The French officers begged Tone to transfer himself to the Biche, which had the best chance to escape — as she actually did — because his fate, if taken, would be certain execution. But Tone refused to fly while the French fought for his country, and commanded a battery in the action which followed. At seven o'clock, the Rosses bearing five leagues S.S.-W., firing began. The Hoche fought against four English vessels of her own size till reduced to a complete wreck. She struck at 11.20 a.m., and was taken into Lough Swilly. The prisoners were landed, according to one account at Rathmullen, according to others at Buncrana. Tone, in his French uniform, passed with the rest, till recognised at Letterkenny by a man who had been at college with him. He was taken to Dublin, tried by courtmartial, defended himself with dignity and courage, and when sentenced to be Ranged, only pleaded the right due to the uniform he wore as a general in the French army. But the Court, with needless severity, refused to treat him as an honourable enemy, and shoot him. Tone anticipated his fate by cutting his throat in prison with a pen-knife. Life was not extinct when he was found, and, incredible as it sounds, the authorities having caused the wound to be tied up so as to prolong life a few hours, proposed to proceed to hang him. This odious step was prevented by the energy of Curran, who obtained a writ of habeas corpus from the Lord Chief Justice, Lord Kilwarden, on the ground that if Tone was held to be a British subject, holding no military commission, a court-martial had no jurisdiction over him. Such was the lamentable but not ignominious end of a formidable enemy to the English rule in Ireland ; and since the Hoche

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 106

18. Tory Island's Fomorian legends and Balor

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal

    Tory Island, named "Torach" meaning "towery," was legendarily owned by the Fomorians, a race of giants. Balor of the Mighty Blows was their chief, and Conaing built a ruined tower of undressed red granite boulders on the island.

    Read the passage

    your road to Rosapenna. But the fortress that will be always present before you as you walk round Horn Head is the natural stronghold of Tory Island, which lies seven miles out to the north-west, looking for all the world like some great towered and battlemented castle. Its name " Torach " means in Irish " towery " — tor is a tower — and much legend and many stories hang about it. It was owned, the legends say, by the Fomorians, a race of giants who lived in Ireland when Paris loved Helen and Troy was being sacked. There is on it a part of a ruined tower, built of undressed boulders of red granite, which Conaing, one of the Fomorians, built. The chief of the island was Balor of the Mighty Blows, and he, they say, carried off from the mainland, Glasgavlen, a famous cow that gave milk enough for a whole barony ; and when her owner, the chief MacKineely, plotted revenge, Balor crossed again, seized him and cut his head off on a stone which keeps the red marks to this day, and is treasured in the grounds of Ballyconnell, Mr. Olphert's place, near Falcarragh. It is a large block of white quartz placed on a raised platform ascended by steps. But in the Annals of the Four Masters a more romantic story is told. Balor was not only a giant but a monster with an eye in the back of his head ; and he had a daughter who, according to the prophecy, would bear a son that would be the death of him. So Balor kept his daughter shut up like Danae, but the chief Kineely made his way over in woman's dress, was taken in as one of her attendants, and in due time made love to the giant's daughter. The end was that a child was born, whom Balor threw into the sea; Kineely he pursued and cut his head off on Clogh-i-neely stone. But the child floated and was picked up on the coast by a smith, who reared the boy and bred him to his trade ; till one day, after many years, Balor came into the forge, and the boy seizing a red hot iron •ran it into Balor's eye and so avenged his father.

    A step nearer to history is marked by the ruins of churches on Tory, where Columbkill founded a monastery.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 102

19. Walker's Column on Derry walls

    near Derry · city · Derry

    A ninety-foot column topped by a statue of Walker rises on the west side of Derry's walls. Walker was credited by Macaulay with chief responsibility for the famous defence of Derry during the siege.

    Read the passage

    the days when two guns were posted on its roof (then flat), to answer the fire of Hamilton's army ; but, as Macaulay observes, " it is filled with memorials of the siege." Over the altar are draped captured French colours, with their silk indeed renewed, but the poles and tassels were wrested from the hands of besiegers ; in the vestibule is a huge shell that was flung into the town, containing conditions of surrender. But the main feature of the town is its wall, on whose top a walk runs, wide enough in places, the inhabitants will tell you, for a carriage and pair to drive along it. On the wall are still mounted the guns that were fought in the siege ; one of them retains its name to this day, Roaring Meg, given from the loudness of its report. And on the west side of the wall rises a column, ninety feet high, topped by a statue of Walker, to whom history (in the person of Macaulay) has given the chief credit for the famous defence.

    Close to the cathedral is the central square of the city, " the Diamond," from which the streets fall sharply away north, east, and south. Here are gathered the principal public buildings, which, however, have little interest for a stranger. In the centre of the Diamond stands the Corporation Hall, now changed to other uses, which replaced the original wooden one knocked to pieces by the bombardment. The street running west leads to Bishopsgate, a triumphal arch erected in 1789 to commemorate the raising of the siege. On the north side of this street is the palace, a huge red-brick building, constructed by the Earl of Bristol, and more suitable for a prelate whose revenues reached ^£12,000 a year than for the modest salary with which a disestablished church rewards its divines. The cathedral has been modernised, and nothing in the town, except the wralls, speaks even of a moderate antiquity, much less of a Celtic origin ; yet Derry, unlike Belfast, has a history stretching far back into the past.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 138

20. W. H. Maxwell at Portrush

    near Portrush · town · Antrim · 1837

    W. H. Maxwell, author of Stories of Waterloo and other soldiering books, lived at Portrush in the same period as Lever at Portstewart. The two men were close friends, and Maxwell's talk likely inspired Lever's early tales of Peninsular campaigning.

    Read the passage

    Go out from Coleraine then by the road that leads to Portstewart, past Agherton churchyard and rectory — any one will direct you— and you will have a last pleasant glimpse of the Bann running seawards ; a little further along, you are across the headland that runs out to the Bann mouth : Portstewart and the sand-hills are close on your left. A road turning to the left, about a quarter of a mile beyond Agherton rectory, will take you into the middle of them. From these sand-hills a road of about a mile long leads into Portstewart, running just inside of a low line of cliffs. Before you reach the town itself, you pass on your left a big modern building, Portstewart Castle ; and as you ride along the trim quay, with its row of houses, advertising lodgings to let, you will note one called Lever Cottage. That is where Harry Lorrequer was written. Lever was dispensary doctor at Portstewart in 1837, when his first book began to appear in the Dublin University Magazine. In these days, W. H. Maxwell, author of Stories of Waterloo, and other soldiering books, lived at Portrush ; the two men were close friends, and no doubt Maxwell's talk inspired Lever's early tales of Peninsular campaigning. Another man of letters lived at Portstewart in the last century, but born to a very different distinction from Lever's. This was Adam Clarke, who acquired a certain fame as a biblical commentator.

    From Portstewart, you have a road of three miles running along the sea to Portrush : and upon a fine day you have continuously a view of the Inishowen headlands across the mouth of Lough Foyle. If the weather is clear, Islay is to be seen

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 154

21. Ardara as centre of Donegal hand-weaving

    Ardara · town · Donegal

    Ardara is described as the centre of the hand-weaving industry that has long existed in western Donegal. The Congested Districts Board and the Irish Industries Association recently developed the industry, though much of the output remained for local use.

    Read the passage

    Ardara is the centre of the hand-weaving industry which has always existed in Western Donegal, but has been recently developed by the Congested Districts Board and the Irish Industries Association, founded by Lady Aberdeen. Many efforts have been made to popularise in England their stuffs and also the hand-knitted things of which Glenties is a great market. But they will probably continue to be produced chiefly for local use, and long may they continue ; as it is, you will see everywhere poor men wearing stuff admirable in colour and pattern, which costs them no more than the cheap and nasty products of Manchester factories. The industry, for local purposes, is an old one ; from time immemorial Donegal women have spun the wool of their own sheep, and Donegal weavers have woven. But up till quite recent times, the wool was left in its natural colour and the product was a grey frieze, which you may still see occasionally, especially in Inishowen. I can well remember old Lord George Hill's picturesque figure, which was never clad in anything else. Some twenty years back, however, Mrs. Ernest Hart started at Derrybeg near Gweedore an institution for teaching the peasants to use dyes ready to their hand ; heather, lichen and the rest. Since then skilled supervision has improved the spinning and weaving ; better looms have been introduced, and a standard set to the workmen : and the few — or many — who choose to dress themselves in Donegal homespuns will find them very pleasant to look at, and comfortable and serviceable to wear. They are to be seen in the shops in any of these western towns and in the hotels at Carrick and Gweedore. But it maybe as well to quote an account of the industry given by Mr. T. W. Rolleston, who was secretary of the Irish In-

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Ardara, a town in Donegal that has long been the centre of hand-weaving in the west of the county. The Congested Districts Board and the Irish Industries Association, founded by Lady Aberdeen, recently developed the trade, though most of what is woven here still serves local needs rather than reaching England. Donegal women have spun wool from their own sheep from time immemorial, and Donegal weavers have woven it. For most of that time the wool was left in its natural colour and the result was a grey frieze, which you may still see occasionally, especially in Inishowen. Old Lord George Hill was never clad in anything else. About 20 years back, Mrs. Ernest Hart started an institution at Derrybeg near Gweedore to teach the peasants to use dyes ready to their hand, heather and lichen and the rest. Since then skilled supervision has improved the spinning and weaving, better looms have been introduced, and a standard set to the workmen. As it stands, you will see everywhere poor men wearing stuff admirable in colour and pattern, which costs them no more than the cheap and nasty products of Manchester factories. The hand-knitted things of which Glenties is a great market have also been promoted. Donegal homespuns are to be seen in the shops in any of these western towns and in the hotels at Carrick and Gweedore. Long may they continue.

22. Columba's monastery at Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 546

    Columba chose to found his first monastery at Derry because of its neighbourhood to the great palace of the Grianan on Elagh mountain. A poem attributed to Columba while living in Iona expresses his deep love for Derry.

    Read the passage

    Came all Alba's cess to me From its centre to its sea, I would choose a better part : One house set in Derry's heart.

    Derry mine ! my small oak grove, Little cell, my home, my love ! O thou Lord of lasting life, Woe to him who brings it strife! 1

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 139

23. Counsel to seek Cúchulainn at Dundalgan

    Dundalk · town · Louth

    Deirdre advised the sons of Usnach to go to Dundalgan where Cúchulainn lay and place themselves under his safeguard until Fergus finished feasting, fearing Conor's treachery. Naisi refused the counsel, declaring there was no fear upon them.

    Read the passage

    So they journeyed on till they came to the hill of Ardmacha, and Deirdre said to Naisi, " I see a cloud in the sky, and it is a cloud of blood ; and I would give you counsel, sons of Usnach." " What counsel ? " said Naisi. " Go to Dundalgan where Cuchullan lies, and be under the safeguard of Cuchullan till Fergus end his feasting, for fear of the treachery of Conor." " There is no fear upon us, and we will not practise that counsel," said Naisi.

    As they drew near to Eman of Macha, Deirdre spoke a last warning.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 169

24. Derrybeg dye-teaching institution founded by Mrs. Ernest Hart

    near Derrybeg · town · Donegal · 1880–1890

    About twenty years before publication, Mrs. Ernest Hart started an institution at Derrybeg near Gweedore to teach peasants to use natural dyes such as heather and lichen. This led to improved spinning, weaving, and better looms in the region.

    Read the passage

    Ardara is the centre of the hand-weaving industry which has always existed in Western Donegal, but has been recently developed by the Congested Districts Board and the Irish Industries Association, founded by Lady Aberdeen. Many efforts have been made to popularise in England their stuffs and also the hand-knitted things of which Glenties is a great market. But they will probably continue to be produced chiefly for local use, and long may they continue ; as it is, you will see everywhere poor men wearing stuff admirable in colour and pattern, which costs them no more than the cheap and nasty products of Manchester factories. The industry, for local purposes, is an old one ; from time immemorial Donegal women have spun the wool of their own sheep, and Donegal weavers have woven. But up till quite recent times, the wool was left in its natural colour and the product was a grey frieze, which you may still see occasionally, especially in Inishowen. I can well remember old Lord George Hill's picturesque figure, which was never clad in anything else. Some twenty years back, however, Mrs. Ernest Hart started at Derrybeg near Gweedore an institution for teaching the peasants to use dyes ready to their hand ; heather, lichen and the rest. Since then skilled supervision has improved the spinning and weaving ; better looms have been introduced, and a standard set to the workmen : and the few — or many — who choose to dress themselves in Donegal homespuns will find them very pleasant to look at, and comfortable and serviceable to wear. They are to be seen in the shops in any of these western towns and in the hotels at Carrick and Gweedore. But it maybe as well to quote an account of the industry given by Mr. T. W. Rolleston, who was secretary of the Irish In-

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 52

25. Doon Well: place of hoped-for cures

    near Doon Well · well · Donegal

    Doon Well is referenced as a place where people go hoping for cures. Gillespie had been taken there once as a hopeful cure for his lame knee, injured while playing hurling, though the visit evidently did not succeed.

    Read the passage

    are wrought, but merely a religious centre where folk go for penance and add their tribute to a great cairn of stones. As we were there and were tasting the water, I thoughtlessly asked Gillespie if he had ever seen Doon well. " Once," he said with a curious intonation ; and I knew instantly, what I might have guessed, that he must have been taken there in hopes of a cure. Unhappily his crutch has no right to be in the group of which you will find a drawing further on. He hurt his knee at " hurling," or hockey-playing, from a blow of the hard wooden ball, and is very lame indeed. To that circumstance, no doubt, he owes an exceptional taste for education. I was surprised to find how interested he was over the fact that Lord Leighton had stayed in Malinmore a few years back ; and indeed there were few things that did not seem to interest him, for he had the temper that makes of so many Irishmen either scholars or wanderers, though living in this out-of-the-world place.

    Cashel, the village in the valley, is, however, in the stream of affairs compared with the townland of Beevna, where Columbkille's chapel stands. It is separated from the rest of the glen by the river and the marsh, over which runs a causeway, and constantly in winter, and sometimes even in summer, tide covers this ; thus, the folk of Beevna who have no boats, have no way of communicating with society at all, except by a journey over the top of Sturrell or Craig Beevna and round by the head of the Glen. Altogether I felt that I had learnt much from my day, though the dense mist prevented sight-seeing, and we concluded with a dissertation on the theory of rundal, which was illustrated by reference to one or two plots in the Glen. It appears that in Kilcar, three miles from Carrick, there is a whole townland where the farms have never been " squared," and the land is still held in rundal ; for an explanation of the term you must see the chapter on Gweedore.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 50

26. Fair Head's castle-like basalt promontory

    near Benmore or Fair Head · promontory · Antrim

    Fair Head is an enormous round promontory, 639 feet above the sea, topped with basalt rock. From the sea it resembles a castle, with enormous upright basalt columns springing from lower shale strata, silhouetting buttresses, battlements, and towers against the sky.

    Read the passage

    Going on from Ballycastle, your next day is plainly mapped out ; you must see Fair Head and reach Cushendal, unless indeed you prefer to go in a boat round the head to Murlough Bay and walk back, an excellent suggestion which I find in Murray. But suppose you keep to dry land. You have about two miles of somewhat hilly road till you reach the little village of Ballyvoy, where there is a post office. Keep straight on up the hill, avoiding the road which runs inland to the right ; and a little higher up you will find a path running to the left up to some houses where you can leave your machine while you walk round the Head. It is an enormous round promontory, at the highest point 639 feet above the sea, and all of it basalt rock at top. As you look at it from the sea the likeness to a castle is extraordinary, for you have first a steep slope of shale, and then about halfway up the basalt springs from these lower strata in enormous upright columns, silhouetting against the sky the profile of buttresses, battlements, and towers. To get down to the sea you must follow the edge of the cliff till you reach a huge fissure where a slip seems to have occurred, and a great pillar, one solid stone, has fallen transversely over the chasm. Under this runs the Grey Man's Path, haunted by the spirit of the Head. The path itself is easy for any modei ately active person, and it is well worth going down

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 174

27. Glen Columbkille as St. Columbkille's sanctuary

    Glencolumbkille · town · Donegal · 500–800

    Glen Columbkille, a wild and inaccessible valley, served as the peculiar sanctuary of Saint Columbkille before he departed for Iona. It was here the great missionary founded monasteries while Ireland was the university of Europe.

    Read the passage

    at an angle as if slices had been cut off the cliff and fallen apart. It was impressive to the point of startling one. The bicycle ran easily — though not smoothly — down the hill, and I noticed two or three boats drawn up in the cleft between two great rocks which serves Glen Columbkille as an apology for a harbour : a truly terrible coast it is, and there are not many of us who would like to have a son engaged in fishing there. Down the road you spin and here for the first time since I entered the county from the South, I saw what is familiar all the way to Horn Head — seaweed used for manure. The valley is closed to seaward by a curiously bare ridge of sand-hills, and as one gets a little further in towards the village one sees sand piled on the roadside and on the lee side of every ditch. That is caused by the drift in from the beach. I ran through the town and up to the little inn I have spoken of near the chapel ; there I left my bicycle and asked the landlord to find me some one who wrould show the antiquities of the Glen. For this Glen, wild as it is, in perhaps the most inaccessible part of Ireland, whether by land or sea, was the peculiar sanctuary of Ireland's greatest missionary, Saint Columbkille " the dove of the Churches," who founded numberless monasteries in Ireland before he went to Iona, and set to evangelising the barbarous Scots and Britons.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into Glencolumbkille in Donegal. The cliffs here stand at an angle as if slices had been cut off and fallen apart, striking to the point of startling you. Down the hill there are two or three boats drawn up in a cleft between two great rocks that serves this glen as an apology for a harbour. It is a truly terrible coast, and there are not many who would like to have a son engaged in fishing there. For the first time since entering the county from the south, you see seaweed used for manure, something familiar all the way to Horn Head. The valley is closed to seaward by a curiously bare ridge of sand-hills. As you get further in towards the village, sand is piled on the roadside and on the lee side of every ditch, caused by the drift in from the beach. There is a little inn near the chapel where a traveller might leave a bicycle and ask the landlord to find someone to show the antiquities of the glen. For this glen, wild as it is, in perhaps the most inaccessible part of Ireland, whether by land or sea, was the peculiar sanctuary of Ireland's greatest missionary, Saint Columbkille, "the dove of the Churches," who founded numberless monasteries in Ireland before he went to Iona, and set to evangelising the barbarous Scots and Britons.

28. Glendun viaduct built as famine relief work

    near Glendun · valley · Antrim

    A surprising viaduct spans the whole width of Glendun, where the glen is much contracted. It is a fine work but emblematic of a wretched past, being one of the many great undertakings set on foot in Ireland to grapple with famine.

    Read the passage

    Leaving this " altar in the wood " you follow the river inland for about a mile and reach a surprising viaduct which spans the whole width of the glen, here much contracted — a fine work but eloquent of a wretched past, for it is one of the many great undertakings set on foot in Ireland to grapple with famine. The road that crosses it will take you, after a run of four miles, tolerably level, into Cushendal, where the Glens of Antrim Hotel is one of the best country inns to be met with anywhere in Ireland.

    It is, of course, a little shorter to cross the Glendun river at Cushendun, where it flows into the sea, and so follow the post route. But I advise the other way, for it gives you a pleasant glimpse of Glendun. And if you have prudently decided to avoid the coast road round Torr Head, even so I would have you run into Cushendun, partly to see the " good stone," partly for the sake of a very pretty village, but chiefly for its associations, as it will one day have a name in literature. " Moira O'Neill," of whom I spoke before, lived for many years and wrote there her first songs and tales of the Glenfolk, than which nothing more admirable has been written by any of the several lady writers who have done theij best to redeem Englishspeaking Ireland from the reproach of lacking a literature.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 180

29. La Trinidad Valencera wrecked in Inishowen

    near Inishowen · townland · Donegal · 1588

    La Trinidad Valencera, a first-class ship of the Armada, went on shore in the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen. A large number of the crew succeeded in landing and were tolerably treated by the natives, though matters soon changed for the worse.

    Read the passage

    Another ship of the first class, La Trinidad Valencera, went on shore in the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen. A large number of the crew succeeded in landing, and were tolerably

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 35

30. Lifford, the frontier fortress of Tyrconnell

    Lifford · townland · Donegal

    Lifford, ten miles from Letterkenny at the confluence of the Finn and Mourne rivers forming the Foyle, served as the frontier fortress between Tyrone and Tyrconnell. The stream of war frequently crossed these boundaries.

    Read the passage

    Here, too, history has been made ; for all this country of comparatively fertile land lay on the marches of Tyrone and Tyrconnell. Lifford, ten miles from Letterkenny, where the Finn and Mourne join to make the Foyle, was the frontier fortress, and the stream of war often passed the boundaries. In 1248 Godfrey O'Donnell was chief of the Kinel Conaill and for the first time in that year English-speaking invaders pierced the barriers of Tyrconnell. But they came as allies, Maurice Fitzgerald crossed the ford of Ballyshannon to help O'Donnell to drive out a rival pretender to the O'Donnellship. In 1257 Fitzgerald returned, this time as a foe, but O'Donnell crossed the Erne to encounter him and they met in the north of Sligo. The chieftains fought Homerically, hand to hand, and each gave the other a death wound, but victory rested with O'DonnelPs party. He was, however, too weak to pursue, and was carried off the field to rest in safety in a crannog, or artificial island stronghold, in the inaccessible Glen Veagh. This seemed to be the chance for the O'Neills, who always claimed lordship over Tyrconnell, and after a year word came to Godfrey O'Donnell on his sick bed bidding him submit. The old chief was dying but his spirit was strong in him. He sent the summons to his gallowglasses and kerne, and he bade carpenters make ready his coffin. In the coffin he made them lay him and, using it as a litter, carry him at the head of his forces against the O'Neill. They marched under this strange leadership past Lough Akibbon, down the Lennan valley and over the hills into Glen Swilly ; and on the Swilly the Kinel Owen were waiting for him. Tyrconnell attacked, and after a bitter fight drove back the invaders. They carried the chief, still living, along the Swilly into the street of Conwall, where the old ruins of an abbey still may be seen, a mile above Letterkenny ; they laid him down in his bier on the street; and here, say the Four Masters "his soul departed from the venom of the scars and wound which he had received in the battle of Creadran. This was not death in

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 75

31. Lough Swilly fortified by four forts

    near Lough Swilly · estuary · Donegal

    Lough Swilly, a magnificent harbour where many fleets could ride without jostling, is defended by a series of four forts: at Leenan inside Dunaff Head, at Dunree commanding north and south, near Buncrana, and on Inch Island facing up the Lough. Dunree Head has become a powerful fort.

    Read the passage

    The hotel has grown and prospered mightily since those days, and if you should end your tour there you could end it in no pleasanter place. It stands looking south across Lough Swilly ; on its right is the broad sweep of Ballymastocker with its lovely clean sand ; inside of that the sandhills, and behind them the smooth green of the links ; facing you is Dunree Head, now become a powerful fort. For Lough Swilly is a magnificent harbour, where many fleets could ride without jostling. It slants in somewhat to the eastward, then turns to the south, so that from about ten or fifteen miles inside the mouth one has to get far to the Inishowen side to see the open water. It is defended now by a series of four forts, one at Leenan just inside DunafT Head, commanding the opening • one at Dunree, which could shell practically the whole Lough north and south ; one quite near Buncrana, and one on Inch Island, facing up the Lough.

    To the left of the hotel a line of cliffs runs for about six miles out to Fanad Head, reaching their highest point in a square-cut precipice that is called the Bin of Fanad. It has a fall of about 300 feet. Just off the Bin is the one obstacle to navigation, the Swilly Rock, where, early in the century, the Saldanha frigate was lost with all hands, the only thing that came alive ashore being a grey parrot. A strange story is told in the Napier memoirs of Captain Pakenham who commanded this unlucky vessel. He was in the Peninsula when a command reached him to join his ship and sail with sealed orders. He confided to Napier that for the first time he was uneasy about his safety. It was borne in upon him, he said, that he would lose his life on this voyage, and that the place where he would lose it would be Lough Swilly in the North of Ireland. The forewarning was of no more use than one of Cassandra's, predictions.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 114

32. Phelim McDevitt hanged at Lifford

    Lifford · townland · Donegal · 1608

    Phelim McDevitt, Sir Cahir O'Dogherty's chief supporter, was betrayed to the English and hanged at Lifford not long after Cahir's death at Doon Rock in 1608.

    Read the passage

    But Sir Arthur Chichester, the Lord-Deputy, sent out hotfoot after him, and on July 5th one of the divisions advanced by way of Kilmacrenan, and Sir Cahir made his stand by Doon Rock. He was a conspicuous figure, of remarkable height, and distinguished by a great Spanish hat with nodding plumes ; so it is no wonder that a bullet in the first volley reached his brain. His head was cut off, for there was a thousand pounds set on it in Dublin Castle ; and the story is, that the man who got it set out to travel alone with his burden, but slept the night under the roof of an O'Dogherty, who looked into the bundle, recognised the head, and determined at least to keep the profit in the clan. The original captor only reached Dublin in time to ascertain that the price had been paid some hours before. Whoever got the money, the head reached its destination ; Sir Cahir's head was " set on a pole of the East Gate, called New Gate, and his body was quartered between Derry and Culmore." Phelim McDevitt, his chief supporter, was not long after betrayed to the English, who hanged him at LifTord. All this materially assisted the settlement of Ulster ; indeed, it is probable that when Faulet laid his horsewhip on the Irish chief whom Docwra had knighted, he had a shrewd vision of confiscated lands in case of any outbreak. If so, the forecast was a good one, though it happened to benefit, not Paulet, but the Lord-Deputy, Sir Arthur Chichester, to whom the whole peninsula of Inishowen was assigned after Cahir's forfeiture. Such was the last incident of any note in that pacifying of Ireland, a process which is wholly forgotten by those who owe to it their estates, but which the descendants of those who were despoiled remember with a resentment perfectly unintelligible to the winners.

    When leaving Doon Rock, you get back on the main road which you left for the Causeway, keep straight along to the left, and it will take you back to Gartan, but there is a hill on it too steep to ride down. You will sight Gartan lake before

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 74

33. Sacrilege at Tory Island

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal

    The same figure who committed sacrilege at Rathmullan also committed sacrilege at Tory Island, and was subsequently slain by Ulick Burke. The episode is mentioned in the context of Red Hugh O'Donnell's rise and the expulsion of English authority from Celtic Ireland.

    Read the passage

    Four Masters, soon paid the penalty of his sacrilege at Rathmullen and Tory, for he was slain on his return to Connaught by Ulick Burke, who thereupon delivered up the town of Sligo to Red Hugh. O'Donnell immediately reinstated in their lands all those chiefs whom Bingham had expelled in his very oppressive government. It was a demonstration to the world that the lords of Ulster meant no ordinary rising, but a systematic sweeping away of the English from Celtic Ireland. By the end of the year, O'Donnell had broken down near a score of the castles in Connaught ; he had named new chiefs of the great clans, Burkes, O'Dowds, Macdonaghs and Macdermots ; he held hostages from them all ; and he was a greater power in Connaught than Elizabeth's Governor. It was time for the English to take thought ; and they sent the Earl of Ormond and the Archbishop of Cashel to make terms. They offered to the Earls the entire " province of Conchobar," that is, Ulster except the tract between Dundalk and the Boyne; Carrickfergus, Carlingford and Newry were to remain trading outposts ; all sheriffs were to be withdrawn, except in the towns named, and Connaught was to have similar privileges. But Tyrone, RedHugh, and their council "having reflected, for a long time, upon the many that had been ruined by the English since their arrival in Ireland, by specious promises, which they had not performed, and the number of Irish high-born princes, gentlemen, and chieftains who came to premature deaths without any reason at all, except to rob them of their patrimonies," decided to reject the peace. Elizabeth then sent 20,000 men into Ireland, and Sir John Norris marched into Connaught at the head of a great hosting. O'Donnell marched out too, but the armies only watched each other. The English took the wise step of recalling Sir Richard Bingham and his relatives, and substituting Sir Conyers Clifford " a far better man than he." Nevertheless, in 1597, Red Hugh carried his men to the very gates of Galway and returned across the Erne, routing on his way the O'Conor of Sligo, who attacked him with a body of English and Irish troops. But, in the same

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 122

34. St Patrick baptised Conall at his palace on the Erne

    near River Erne · river · Cavan · 450

    On his first missionary journey around 450 AD, St Patrick found and baptised Conall in his palace on the north bank of the Erne. From there Patrick travelled to the Grianan of Aileach.

    Read the passage

    two lay Tyrone, stretching its power down to the very confines of the English pale at Dundalk. But the divisions were there long before England was a coherent nation. Niall of the Nine Hostages was King of Ireland from 379 to 405, and his eight sons cut themselves out principalities all over Ireland. The Hy-Niall, or sons of Neill, soon divided into a northern and southern branch ; and of the four sons who came north the two greatest were Eoghan and Conall, who because he was fostered on Gulbane mountain — now Benbulben — was called Conall Gulban. Conall made his home on Donegal Bay, and Eoghan upon the Inishowen hills, and from them descended the Kinel Conall and Kinel Eoghan, who ruled in Tyrconnell and Tyrone. Patrick in his first missionary journey, about 450 a.d , found and baptised Conall in his palace on the north bank of Erne ; and thence he made his way to the Grianan of Aileach, where Eoghan held his fortress perched on the heights that lie between Derry and Lough Swilly. Time went on, and the descendants of Niall fought either as foes or as allies. Together in the ninth century they drove out the Danes who attempted landings on Lough Foyle ; but oftener the Kinel Eoghan found the Kinel Conall driving their cattle or in their turn repelling a raid. About 950, the leaders of the two great clans adopted the practice of calling themselves the O'Neill and the O'Donnell. This use of surnames was soon rendered universal by a law of Brian Boru passed in 965, that every family should take a surname from some distinguished ancestor ; and so from that day begins the era of the Macs and Os. Sons of Donnell, sons of Niall, sons of Brian, and the rest.

    By this time Ireland was no longer only the land of the Irish. Danes had a strong footing there, and before long intestine sedition called in adventurers from Wales — for Strongbow and his people were Norman-Welsh. But neither Dane nor Norman found holding-ground in Tyrone or Tyrconnell, nor yet on the Antrim sea-board, except in the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 16

35. Bundoran's summer seaside crowds

    Bundoran · town · Donegal

    Allingham's poem bids farewell to Bundoran and its summer crowds, who come from inland homes to see the Atlantic setting sun, breathe the salted air, sport among the waves, gather shells, and explore the gloomy caves along the coast.

    Read the passage

    Farewell Coolmore — Bundoran ! and your summer crowds that run From inland homes to see with joy th' Atlantic setting sun ; To breathe the buoyant salted air, and sport among the waves ; To gather shells on sandy beach and tempt the gloomy caves ; To watch the flowing, ebbing tide, the boats, the crabs, the fish ; Young men and maids to meet and smile, and form a tender wish ; The sick and old in search of health, for all things have their turn — And I must quit my native shore and the winding banks of Erne !

    Farewell to every- white cascade from the harbour to Belleek,

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Bundoran, the seaside town in Donegal that the poet William Allingham called home. In his poem he bids farewell to the place and its summer crowds, people who come from inland homes to see the Atlantic sun go down. They come to breathe the salt air and sport among the waves, gather shells on the sand and tempt the gloomy caves along the coast. He writes of young men and maids meeting and smiling, and of the sick and old in search of health, before he must quit his native shore and the winding banks of the Erne.

36. Coleraine baking traditions

    near Coleraine · town · Derry

    Coleraine, a great Presbyterian stronghold, preserves valuable traditions of skill in baking, with fancy bread far superior to anything available in Dublin. Recipes are handed down in their integrity from father to son and mother to daughter.

    Read the passage

    You will have to go up as far as Coleraine to cross the Bann, and it is worth going up into the town for a very beautiful view inland up the course of the river. Coleraine is itself one of the main centres of what Roman Catholics call the Black North — a great Presbyterian stronghold. The Scotch element in these northern places preserves a number of valuable traditions — one is of skill in baking. Deny, and still more Coleraine, abound in all sorts of fancy bread, excellent in quality, and far superior to any that can be got in Dublin. Local usages run strong in these places, and receipts are handed down in their integrity from father to son, from mother to daughter. So by all means stop for lunch in Coleraine and explore the pastry-cook's in the Diamond. Another famous product of Coleraine used to be its whisky, and I can well remember in Donegal to have heard the priest of our parish come up to my

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 152

37. Culmore and Derry forts established by Docwra

    near Culmore · town · Derry · 1600

    By 1600 the only English presence in the O'Cahan's country between Lough Foyle and the Bann was the establishment of forts at Culmore and Derry by Sir Henry Docwra. Their hold seemed insecure at the time.

    Read the passage

    If you had been crossing Lough Foyle in 1600, you would have left the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen— always disputed between O'Neill and O'Donnell — to come into the O'Cahan's or O'Kane's. O'Cahan, whose chief seat was at Limavady, was the principal urraght of O'Neill ; his country included all between the Foyle and the Bann ; and when an O'Neill was proclaimed at Tullaghogue it was the proud function of the O'Cahan to toss a shoe over his head. In 1600 the only trace of the English was the establishment of forts at Culmore and Deny by Sir Henry Docwra, which it seemed little likely they would hold good. Twenty years later the new order wras established. Sir Cahir O'Doherty had rebelled and Chichester was lord of his land in Inishowen. Tyrone had fallen ; in his forfeiture the O'Cahan had been involved ; and the whole country had been made over to twelve London companies — a grant of nearly 40,000 acres to 119 families. It was a black day for the native Irish : but it must be allowed that the new comers brought with them the arts of peace ; and the flax industry, which gave to Ulster what was once its most important crop, and which is still the predominant industry of its thriving towns, dates from the English settlement.

    East of the Bann begins the great Coast Road, down which you will travel, and this country of the Glens escaped " plantation " and therefore remains comparatively Celtic in character. When the O'Donnells and O'Neills went under, the third great house of Ulster, the Macdonnells, escaped, and were taken into high favour by James I., thanks to their Scotch blood. Randal Macdonnell was created Earl of Antrim and received a grant of the Glens and the Route, from the Curran of Larne to the Cutts of Coleraine. Yet, although this coastward strip from the neighbourhood of Coleraine to Larne has never been violently converted into the home of a Saxon and Protestant

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 150

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Culmore now, near Derry. In 1600, if you had been crossing Lough Foyle, you would have left the O'Doherty's country of Inishowen, always disputed between O'Neill and O'Donnell, and come into the O'Cahan's country. O'Cahan, whose chief seat was at Limavady, was the principal urraght of O'Neill. His country included all the land between the Foyle and the Bann. When an O'Neill was proclaimed at Tullaghogue, it was the proud function of the O'Cahan to toss a shoe over his head. In 1600 the only trace of the English was the forts Sir Henry Docwra established here at Culmore and at Derry, and it seemed little likely they would hold them. Twenty years later the new order was established. Sir Cahir O'Doherty had rebelled, and Chichester became lord of his land in Inishowen. Tyrone had fallen, and in his forfeiture the O'Cahan had been involved. The whole country was made over to twelve London companies, a grant of nearly 40,000 acres to 119 families. It was a black day for the native Irish, but the new comers brought with them the arts of peace. The flax industry, which gave Ulster what was once its most important crop and is still the predominant industry of its thriving towns, dates from that English settlement. East of the Bann begins the great Coast Road, down which you will travel. This country of the Glens escaped plantation and remains comparatively Celtic in character. When the O'Donnells and O'Neills went under, the third great house of Ulster, the Macdonnells, escaped and were taken into high favour by James I, thanks to their Scotch blood. Randal Macdonnell was created Earl of Antrim and received a grant of the Glens and the Route, from the Curran of Larne to the Cutts of Coleraine. This coastward strip from the neighbourhood of Coleraine to Larne has never been violently converted into the home of a Saxon and Protestant population.

38. Slieve League, the ocean-mountain

    Slieve League · mountain or mountain range · Donegal

    In Allingham's farewell poem to Ballyshannon, Slieve League is celebrated as an ocean-mountain steep, rising six hundred yards in air aloft and descending six hundred in the deep, marking the grand southern reach of the Donegal coast.

    Read the passage

    Farewell to you, Kildoney lads, and them that pull an oar, A lug-sail set, or haul a net, from the point to Mullaghmore ; From Killeybegs to bold Slieve League, that ocean-mountain steep, Six hundred yards in air aloft, six hundred in the deep ; From Dooran to the Fairy Bridge and round by Tullen strand, Level and long, and white with waves, where gull and curlew stand ; Head out to sea when on your lee the breakers you discern ! — Adieu to all the billowy coast and winding banks of Erne !

    :::

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 26

39. Bishopsgate triumphal arch

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1789

    Bishopsgate is a triumphal arch erected in 1789 to commemorate the raising of the siege of Derry. It stands at the west end of the street leading from the Diamond.

    Read the passage

    Close to the cathedral is the central square of the city, " the Diamond," from which the streets fall sharply away north, east, and south. Here are gathered the principal public buildings, which, however, have little interest for a stranger. In the centre of the Diamond stands the Corporation Hall, now changed to other uses, which replaced the original wooden one knocked to pieces by the bombardment. The street running west leads to Bishopsgate, a triumphal arch erected in 1789 to commemorate the raising of the siege. On the north side of this street is the palace, a huge red-brick building, constructed by the Earl of Bristol, and more suitable for a prelate whose revenues reached ^£12,000 a year than for the modest salary with which a disestablished church rewards its divines. The cathedral has been modernised, and nothing in the town, except the wralls, speaks even of a moderate antiquity, much less of a Celtic origin ; yet Derry, unlike Belfast, has a history stretching far back into the past.

    Derry is the Irish Daire, an oak grove, and its oldest name was Daire Calgach, the grove of Calgach. It stood in what was then Tir Ely, or the province of Aileach, and there can be little

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 138

40. Derry rebuilt and renamed Londonderry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1609–1612

    Following the destruction of Derry, the Corporation of London agreed to rebuild the town in 1609, leading to its new name, Londonderry. In 1612, the Irish Society was formed to manage the plantation, receiving lands at Derry and Coleraine.

    Read the passage

    In 1609 begins the modern history of the town which has been called, and with reason, the acropolis of Protestant Ulster. The Corporation of London agreed to rebuild Derry, and so

    218 DERRV DECLARES FOR THE COVENANT chap.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 141

41. Emain Macha: Conor's court in the Deirdre legend

    near Armagh · town · Armagh

    In the legend of the Sons of Usnach, King Conor assembled his nobles in the great hall of Emain Macha, identified as Armagh, for feasting. It was from here that Conor plotted to recall the exiled sons of Usnach from Alba.

    Read the passage

    Now King Conor assembled his nobles in the great Rman or Hall of Macha, that is Armagh, and there was eating and drinking, and harpers, and bards, and all men's hearts were full of content. Then Conor rose up and said to them, " Saw you ever a palace fairer and richer than this my house of Eman?" and they said, " We saw none." Then Conor asked, " Is there nought lacking ? " and they said, " We know of nought." "Ay,"

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 166

42. Kilmacrenan as a halting place on the Derry-Dunfanaghy road

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal

    Kilmacrenan lies on the high road from Derry to Dunfanaghy and in old days was a necessary stopping place for travelers coming from the great houses at Ards and Horn Head. Strangers of the better class would attend church, prompting Dr. Hastings to preach above his usual level.

    Read the passage

    Kilmacrenan lies on the high road from Derry to Dunfanaghy, and in the old days was a necessary halting place for any one coming through from the great houses at Ards and Horn Head ; so it happened tolerably often that some stranger of the better class, having heard the fame of Dr. Hastings, would be in the church on a Sunday. It was always noticed that on these occasions the sermon rose above the usual level. One day a couple of mischievous lads staying at the Rectory thought it would be a fine joke to leave the rector without his sermon, and they well knew it resided in his coat-tail pocket.

    viii CHASE OF A GAUGER 103

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 68

43. Lough Fern and the Lennan river setting

    near Lough Fern · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Lough Fern is fed and drained by the Lennan river, which enters and exits the lake within roughly three hundred yards. The surrounding landscape includes Moyle Hill and Moyagh to the south, the Fanad Hills above Mulroy to the east, Lough Salt to the north, and the Glen Veagh mountains and Errigal to the west. Margaret Boyle keeps boats and lodges anglers in a cottage on the lakeshore.

    Read the passage

    probably as good a piece of free fishing as exists. From April to October it is a good chance for salmon — though I have never known of anything startling done in it ; five salmon to two rods is the best. But this year before June several rods had got two fish in the day ; and on any sort of fishing day you can get a dozen of trout, while three or four dozen to two rods is very ordinary fishing. Boats are kept on it, which cost five shillings a day, by Margaret Boyle, who also puts up anglers in a cottage, so clean and comfortable that it is a much needed example to the country side. If you stay wTith Margaret you can fish the lake or the lower river or the upper — for the Lennan just comes into Lough Fern and out again within a matter of three hundred yards — and you will have pleasant scenery all round you. To the south of the lake is Moyle Hill and Moyagh, Mr. Swiney's house — which is generally to be let in summer — to the east the view is blocked by the Fanad Hills above Mulroy — to the north is Lough Salt immediately above fou — and to the west you look up the river valley to Kilmacrenan, and away back to the Glen Veagh mountains and the sharp crest of Errigal.

    If you are at Ramelton, Lough Fern is four miles out along a level road — but I must say a very ill-kept one— about half an hour on a cycle. But this lake and the river are by no means your only resources. If you get on the top of Moyle Hill — about five hundred feet— you see eleven lakes within a radius of five miles. Lough Keel is visible on the southern slope of Lough Salt, and this can only be fished with Lady Leitrim's permission. There is no restriction on any of the others. Lough Fern is below you to the north. East, away above Milford, is Lough Columb, but you had better let that alone. It is a big lake, over a mile in circumference, and the trout there are like salmon, short, thick and red-fleshed, running over two pounds. But the story is that no man can get more than two in the day, and the only acquaintance of mine who beat

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 195

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Lough Fern, a lake the road runs near. It is fed and drained by the Lennan river, which comes into the lake and out again within a matter of 300 yards. The book calls it probably as good a piece of free fishing as exists. From April to October there is a good chance of salmon, though nothing startling has ever been done in it. Five salmon to two rods is the best recorded. But this year, before June, several rods had got two fish in a day. On any sort of fishing day you can get a dozen trout, and three or four dozen to two rods is very ordinary fishing. Boats are kept on the lake by Margaret Boyle, at five shillings a day. She also puts up anglers in a cottage on the shore, so clean and comfortable that the book says it is a much needed example to the country side. If you stay with Margaret you can fish the lake, or the lower river, or the upper. The scenery goes all round you. To the south is Moyle Hill and Moyagh, Mr Swiney's house, which is generally to let in summer. To the east the view is blocked by the Fanad Hills above Mulroy. To the north is Lough Salt immediately above. To the west you look up the river valley to Kilmacrenan, and away back to the Glen Veagh mountains and the sharp crest of Errigal.

44. Primitive farming custom of yoking ponies by the tail

    near Gweedore · locality · Donegal

    In the Gweedore area farmers formerly yoked ponies to harrows by the tail rather than using proper harness, a practice Lord George Hill sought to reform. By the time of writing this custom had been abandoned, and the author notes it is no longer necessary to teach the folk otherwise.

    Read the passage

    It is no longer necessary to teach the folk of that country that it is better to put harness on a pony than yoke him to a harrow by the tail, which was their primitive method. But the desolation and savagery were marked enough when Carlyle went out to spy with keen unsparing vision upon the nakedness of the land. He writes ; "On the whole I had to repeat often

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 94

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Gweedore, this was a place where farmers once yoked ponies to harrows by the tail rather than fitting them with harness. Lord George Hill tried to reform the practice, and by the time one writer passed through, it was no longer necessary to teach the folk otherwise. Carlyle had come through earlier and found what he called the nakedness of the land.

45. Slieve League cliffs and their cave

    Slieve League · mountain or mountain range · Donegal

    Slieve League is a mountain with a sharply serrated ridge, whose far side is a precipitous cliff varying from 1,000 to 2,000 feet. There is said to be a cave of extraordinary dimensions in the cliff, best approached by boat when weather permits.

    Read the passage

    is no better place to stay in for a week than Carrick. Dunfanaghy is the only place I know with rival attractions in the way of scenery, and the hotel at Carrick is decidedly the better. You could spend your week there sight-seeing and never go over the same ground twice. Besides, it is an excellent spot for fishing. Brown trout fishing is free to all guests on two rivers and three lakes, all quite within easy distance of the hotel. Salmon and sea-trout fishing is free also, provided you take out your licence in the hotel. This arrangement will suit admirably on the route I propose, as it is the first fishing hotel you come to and the licence taken there will be available at any other river in the county. You are allowed to keep your fish, and with luck you should get plenty. But the essential thing for you to do is to see Slieve League and Glen Columbkille ; Malin-beg, the caves at Muckross and so forth are minor attractions. The chief centre of the new fishing industries developed by the Congested Districts Board is at Teelin Harbour, where the Glen River flows into the sea, and Carrick is one of the two markets for the homespuns whose production has been so energetically developed of late years. But of these matters I shall speak elsewhere in some detail. Scenery is the business of the moment. To see Slieve League is possible by the use of a boat, a pony, or your legs : not by a bicycle. I recommend a boat for all this cliff scenery, time and weather permitting; there is said to be a cave of extraordinary dimensions in the Slieve League cliff. But I must describe the thing as I saw it from on foot.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along Carrick in Donegal, this was once recommended as the place to stay a full week for scenery and fishing, with brown trout free to guests on two rivers and three lakes, all within easy reach. Salmon and sea-trout fishing was free too, provided you took out your licence at the hotel, and that licence would hold at any other river in the county. The book said you could spend a week sight-seeing here and never cover the same ground twice. But the essential sights were Slieve League and Glen Columbkille. Malin-beg and the caves at Muckross were counted as minor attractions. To see Slieve League you could use a boat, a pony, or your legs, but not a bicycle. The recommendation was a boat for the cliff scenery, time and weather permitting, as there was said to be a cave of extraordinary dimensions in the Slieve League cliff. Teelin Harbour, where the Glen River meets the sea, was the chief centre of fishing industries developed by the Congested Districts Board, and Carrick was one of two markets for the homespuns whose production had been energetically developed in recent years.

46. The 'good stone' altar in Glendun wood

    near Glendun · valley · Antrim

    Roman Catholics in Glendun held services at the foot of an old oak tree in a corner of woodland. Wanting a sacred marker, local 'boys' risked a dangerous sea crossing to a Scottish island—Staffa or Iona—to fetch a holy 'good stone' for the altar, braving the islanders and supernatural guardians.

    Read the passage

    There are other things, too, to see in Glendun if you care to give the time. As you enter the village you will find a road going to the right which follows at some distance the course of the river ; and up this you ought certainly to go. After about a mile you will pass on the left a chapel which is obviously new, in a burying ground where many of the tombstones have dates going far back, and some of them queer carvings of ships for the graves of seamen. A little further on the right you reach a wood, mostly of oak, nestling close to the hillside, and a cottage by the road. Ask your way there, and they will show where the altar with the " good stone " is. Here, in this corner of the wood, the Roman Catholics used to hold their service, at the foot of an old oak tree. But the people thought it hard there should be no mark of the sacredness of the place ; and talk came that there was a " good stone " in one of the Scotch islands — Staffa or Iona, I know not which. Accordingly some " boys " of the neighbourhood went over one day in a boat, and it was a dangerous journey they were on ; for the people of the island would have had their lives if it were known that they meant to lay a finger on this treasure ; and besides, who could say but if they touched a holy thing the power that guarded it might rise up and drown them for their boldness in the

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 179

47. Tory Island's hereditary king and fishing life

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal

    Tory Island had a hereditary king who adjudicated disputes, though the office had lapsed by the time of writing. The islanders lived almost entirely by fishing, using curraghs in the old days before yawls were adopted.

    Read the passage

    In short, Tory is a place with no want of picturesque legend about it, but the few people who have been there are more struck with its present than its past. The islanders live almost entirely by fishing, and the whole soil is covered, one hears, with the fish heads. Tory is now in the highway of the world, compared with what it was ; a telegraph wire connects it with Pollaguill Bay on the west of the Horn ; there is a signal station of Lloyd's shipping agency there, and a lighthouse. Steamers call there weekly for the take of fish and lobsters, and there are few of the people who have not been on the mainland, and probably also one or two who have been in England, Scotland, or America. They fish, too, in yawls nowadays, which are weatherly boats, though no boat that sails will take you to and from Tory in all weathers, and if you go there you risk having to stay a fortnight. But in the old days the islanders owned just their curraghs, and fished for their living. Curing was unknown to them (now the Congested Districts Board has established a small station there), but they used to try and keep alive not only crabs and lobsters, but also the choicest of their fish, such as turbot, which they tethered by the tail and kept in pools of the rocks. Tory was a lonely place in those days. There was a king in the island who adjudicated ; the office, which was hereditary, has, I believe, lapsed. No priest lived there, and it was said that sometimes when a marriage was to take place, rough weather would keep the ministrant from crossing, it might be for a month or two, so there was a system of signals in force. The priest went out on to Horn Head and read the service ; at a certain point one fire was lighted, then another, and so on, in order that the happy couple standing devout on the landward shore of Tory, might know exactly to what point in the service his reverence had got, and when they were finally accepted before the Church as man and wife.1

    1 Told, I believe truly, of the priest of Tamney when hindered from crossing Rowros ferry. The story is transferred to Tory.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 103

48. Randal Macdonnell created Earl of Antrim

    near Antrim · town · Antrim

    Randal Macdonnell was created Earl of Antrim by James I and received a grant of the Glens and the Route, from the Curran of Larne to the Cutts of Coleraine. The Macdonnells escaped plantation thanks to their Scotch blood.

    Read the passage

    East of the Bann begins the great Coast Road, down which you will travel, and this country of the Glens escaped " plantation " and therefore remains comparatively Celtic in character. When the O'Donnells and O'Neills went under, the third great house of Ulster, the Macdonnells, escaped, and were taken into high favour by James I., thanks to their Scotch blood. Randal Macdonnell was created Earl of Antrim and received a grant of the Glens and the Route, from the Curran of Larne to the Cutts of Coleraine. Yet, although this coastward strip from the neighbourhood of Coleraine to Larne has never been violently converted into the home of a Saxon and Protestant

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 150

49. Bog Side of Derry, formerly impassable morass

    Bogside · townland · Donegal

    The ground on which Derry stands is a sharply rising knoll, in old days practically an island, because the north of the town — still called the Bog Side — was an impassable morass. The cathedral, sitting atop this acropolis, is visible from every approach to the town.

    Read the passage

    As to its picturesqueness, Derry is totally devoid of any architectural beauties, but its situation lends it a certain charm. It stands on the left bank of the Foyle, where the river is tidal, and at all times a noble stream, over 300 yards wide. The ground on which it stands is a sharply rising knoll, in old days practically an island, for the north of the town — still called the Bog Side — was an impassable morass. Both banks of the river are richly wooded and rise into hills; and from whatever point you see the town you will discern its acropolis, the cathedral stretching up to the sky. The cathedral has been altered greatly since

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 137

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Bogside, this ground was once water and bog. Derry stands on a sharply rising knoll on the left bank of the Foyle, where the river is tidal and over 300 yards wide. In old days the knoll was practically an island, because the north of the town, still called the Bog Side, was an impassable morass. The cathedral sits atop this acropolis, and from whatever point you see the town you will discern it, stretching up to the sky.

50. Cahir's failed assault on Lifford and retreat to Glen Yeagh

    Lifford · townland · Donegal · 1608

    After sacking Derry, Sir Cahir O'Dogherty proceeded to Lifford at the junction of the Finn and Foyle but failed to take it, retreating into the fastness of Glen Yeagh.

    Read the passage

    Sir Cahir O'Dogherty was chief of Inishowen, a district over which Red Hugh claimed lordship. On the death of Cahir's father, Hugh seized the boy, and wished to cause Phelim O'Dogherty, Cahir's uncle, to be proclaimed the O'Dogherty. But Cahir's friends and fosterers, the McDevitts of Birt, near Lough Swilly, appealed to Sir Henry Docwra, who held the new built forts of Culmore and Deny j and Docwra established Cahir as chief, and moreover bred the youth under his own eye in all courtly and warlike exercises, for a staunch supporter of the English. Cahir fought for his allies, was knighted, and in 1607 was foreman of the jury that pronounced the fugitive Earls to be traitors and their property forfeit. What more could an Irish noble do for the English? But Docwra was succeeded by Sir Henry Paulet, who mistrusted Cahir, and after many quarrels was rash enough to strike him. The O'Dogherty went back infuriated to his castle of Birt, which to this day stands south of Inch Island, looking over Lough Swilly, and there he plotted revenge with his fosterers the McDevitts — the clan who, for his sake, had deserted Red Hugh and gone over to the English. In April, 1608, he marched out with a following largely consisting of McDevitts, marched over the base of the Inishowen peninsula, took Culmore Fort on Lough Foyle either by treachery or surprise, garrisoned it with his own men, and advanced on Derry, which he sacked and burnt. Sir Henry Paulet paid with his life for the insult. Thence he proceeded to Lifford, at the junction of the Finn and Foyle, but failed to take it, and retreated into the fastness of Glen Yeagh.

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 73

51. Columba's fosterers at Kilmacrenan (Doire Eithne)

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal · 521–597

    Columba's fosterers were the O'Ferghails (Freels), who lived at Kilmacrenan, then known as Doire Eithne, meaning Ethne's Grove, linking the place to Columba's mother.

    Read the passage

    Columba was born in 521 and lived to 597. He was son of a chief Feidilmid, and grandson's grandson to Conall Gulban. His mother was Ethne, who by divine monition, say the chroniclers, went to Gartan for the birth. His fosterers were the O'Ferghails (Freels) who lived at Kilmacrenan, then known as Doire Eithne (Ethne's Grove). After he came to be a youth he went to Strangford, where he studied under St. Finian. In those days Ireland was the great home of universities, an island remote from the wars that ravaged Europe, honoured for its scholars and resorted to by students from all lands. Columba

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 61

52. Crannog in lake on Fair Head

    near Benmore or Fair Head · promontory · Antrim

    One of the three lakes on top of Fair Head contains a crannog, a dwelling built on piles. This lake drains into a stream which falls over the eastward side of the Head into Murlough Bay.

    Read the passage

    The head presents a semi-circular front of about two miles of cliffs. On top, in the space enclosed, are three lakes, one of which, Lough Dhu, has an outlet by a waterfall over the cliff ; of the other two, one has a crannog or dwelling built on piles in it. This lake drains into a stream which falls over the eastward side of the Head into Murlough Bay ; a beautiful spot, where the shelter given by the Head has enabled a tasteful proprietor to form plantations about his house ; and a streak of red sandstone which crops out here gives a note of unfamiliar colour to the view. The whole place is open ground, so that detailed directions are almost an impertinence ; when you have explored the Head and bay to your pleasure, you can get back to your machine ; but you should have two or three hours to do the excursion in, and take your lunch with you.

    From Fair Head there is a choice of routes, and any one who does not care about walking had better get back to Ballyvoy and follow the post road to Cushendun, which runs inland through a district mostly of heathery mountain for about ten miles. But if you want scenery you should go over the shoulder of Fair Head— following the telegraph wire : only, beware of the road. It is very hilly — mostly against you till you round a corner which is Torr Head and see the wire going straight down an awful hill to the coastguard station, where it ends. You can, if you like, go down there too, and at the bottom of the hill turn to your right, where there is probably a level stretch. Anyhow, nothing can be worse than the alternative, which is to go straight along at the high level, where you get perhaps halfa-mile of a gentle slope ; then the road disappears round a sharp corner, and if you round that corner with feet up or without a brake, heaven help you ! A little stream runs down into Portaleen Bay, and this road falls towards the bridge over it, steep as the roof of a house but by no means so smooth. The

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 175

53. Danes driven from Lough Foyle landings

    near Lough Foyle · estuary · Derry · 800–900

    In the ninth century the Kinel Conall and Kinel Eoghan joined forces to drive out the Danes who attempted landings on Lough Foyle. This was one of the rare instances of cooperation between the two northern clans.

    Read the passage

    two lay Tyrone, stretching its power down to the very confines of the English pale at Dundalk. But the divisions were there long before England was a coherent nation. Niall of the Nine Hostages was King of Ireland from 379 to 405, and his eight sons cut themselves out principalities all over Ireland. The Hy-Niall, or sons of Neill, soon divided into a northern and southern branch ; and of the four sons who came north the two greatest were Eoghan and Conall, who because he was fostered on Gulbane mountain — now Benbulben — was called Conall Gulban. Conall made his home on Donegal Bay, and Eoghan upon the Inishowen hills, and from them descended the Kinel Conall and Kinel Eoghan, who ruled in Tyrconnell and Tyrone. Patrick in his first missionary journey, about 450 a.d , found and baptised Conall in his palace on the north bank of Erne ; and thence he made his way to the Grianan of Aileach, where Eoghan held his fortress perched on the heights that lie between Derry and Lough Swilly. Time went on, and the descendants of Niall fought either as foes or as allies. Together in the ninth century they drove out the Danes who attempted landings on Lough Foyle ; but oftener the Kinel Eoghan found the Kinel Conall driving their cattle or in their turn repelling a raid. About 950, the leaders of the two great clans adopted the practice of calling themselves the O'Neill and the O'Donnell. This use of surnames was soon rendered universal by a law of Brian Boru passed in 965, that every family should take a surname from some distinguished ancestor ; and so from that day begins the era of the Macs and Os. Sons of Donnell, sons of Niall, sons of Brian, and the rest.

    By this time Ireland was no longer only the land of the Irish. Danes had a strong footing there, and before long intestine sedition called in adventurers from Wales — for Strongbow and his people were Norman-Welsh. But neither Dane nor Norman found holding-ground in Tyrone or Tyrconnell, nor yet on the Antrim sea-board, except in the

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 16

54. Doe Castle and the Lackagh River

    Doe Castle · electoral division · Donegal

    The Owen Carrow river flows into Glen Lough and emerges as the Lackagh, running two miles to the sands of Sheephaven by historic Doe Castle. The castle is noted as a landmark on this river's short course to the sea.

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    As you come down the glen again from the castle, turn to your left when you strike the road ; about a quarter of a mile down a very sharp hill, you come to a bridge over the beautiful Owen Carrow river, and by the bridge stands a police barrack — fifteen miles from Gweedore — erected in the old days, when Mr. Adair's life was a matter of anxiety to the Government. From that day to this the barrack has been tenanted by three or four strapping young men, well fed, well clad, and well paid, each of them costing the country his ^"200 a year. I doubt if there are twenty houses within a radius of five miles. Decidedly if Ireland grows quieter, she will have to economise on constabulary. Crossing the bridge, you go up a hill ; on your right the Calabber, a mountain torrent scarcely big enough to be called a river, dashes down ; and you can trace the gorge of the Owen Carrow, making a line of trees through all that treeless expanse of heather, on its way to Glen Lough ; out of which it runs again on its short course of two miles, now called the Lackagh, before it flows into the sands of Sheephaven, by historic Doe Castle. Rosapenna is down there, but you have to sleep at Gweedore and Dunfanaghy before you get to it. The road rises steadily now for a full five miles, and for about half of that distance you are following the valley of the Calabber. Muckish, in all its huge bulk, is on your right, Dooish on your left. Presently a bridge over the Calabber carries a road running northward to the sea ; it passes to Falcarragh through Muckish Gap, which separates the steep scarped gable end of that mountain from Crocknalaragh.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 83

    As the companion tells it

    Coming down the glen from the castle and turning left onto the road, you come to a bridge over the Owen Carrow river. By the bridge stands a police barrack, fifteen miles from Gweedore. It was put up in the old days, when Mr. Adair's life was a matter of anxiety to the Government. From that day to this the barrack has been kept by three or four strapping young men, well fed, well clad, and well paid, each of them costing the country 200 a year. There may not be twenty houses within five miles of the place. Crossing the bridge and going up the hill, the Calabber comes down on your right, a mountain torrent scarcely big enough to be called a river. You can trace the gorge of the Owen Carrow, a line of trees running through all that treeless expanse of heather, on its way to Glen Lough. Out of Glen Lough it runs again, on its short course of two miles, now called the Lackagh, before it flows into the sands of Sheephaven by historic Doe Castle. The road rises steadily for a full five miles, and for about half that distance you follow the valley of the Calabber. Muckish, in all its huge bulk, is on your right, Dooish on your left. Presently a bridge over the Calabber carries a road running northward to the sea, passing to Falcarragh through Muckish Gap, which separates the steep scarped gable end of that mountain from Crocknalaragh.

55. Glen Lough and the old eel-weir on the Lackagh

    near Glen Lough · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The Lackagh River flows from Glen Lough through a series of pools and falls, including one fed by an old eel-weir described as probably the best salmon throw in the county. The fishing was free to Rosapenna Hotel guests until July, after which it was reserved by Lady Leitrim.

    Read the passage

    The Throat, where it leaves the lake ; then comes about a mile of continuous fall, too shallow to fish except actually in a flood. Then you come to a hole called the Grass Garden, about fifty yards long, with a run at the head of it j immediately below that is the pool of two hundred yards or so, and at the head a stream is made by an old eel-weir which is probably the best salmon throw in the county. The Lackagh is free to guests at the Rosapenna Hotel up to the end of July ; it is an early river and quite worth fishing in March and April. After July it is reserved by Lady Leitrim. At all seasons the Leitrim fishing is only one side, but there is always plenty of water in the pool, when two rods can fish facing each other. Glen Lough is also a capital chance for salmon, and the white trout-fishing in both river and lough may be excellent in August and September. Indeed, a wise man would let the salmon alone most days and fish for white trout and also for brown, which are plentiful of the herring size — the same flies do for both — but the worst of salmon fishing is that one is always tempted to give up the certainty of amusement with trout for the chance of the stronger excitement — which is worth the sacrifice, if you get it ; but woe is me for the blank days I have spent!

    I cannot recommend Rosapenna as a fishing centre in August, for the place is demoralised by golf, the river is not available, and they do not let you keep your fish. Still, the passing angler might do worse than try a day on Lough Kiel. He will see one of the wildest places in Donegal, and will have a chance of getting really large trout. One weighing 12 \ pounds was caught there a few years ago. It is one of the few places in Donegal where the minnow is of any use.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 191

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Glen Lough in Donegal, where the Lackagh River runs out through a stretch called the Throat. Below the lake comes about a mile of continuous fall, too shallow to fish except in a flood, and then a hole called the Grass Garden, about 50 yards long. Below that is a pool of 200 yards or so, and at its head a stream is made by an old eel-weir, described as probably the best salmon throw in the county. The Lackagh was free to guests at the Rosapenna Hotel up to the end of July, an early river worth fishing in March and April. After July it was reserved by Lady Leitrim. At all seasons the Leitrim fishing was only one side, but two rods could fish the pool facing each other. Glen Lough itself was also a capital chance for salmon, and white trout fishing in both river and lough could be excellent in August and September. Brown trout were plentiful too, of what the writer calls the herring size, and the same flies served for both kinds. He notes that a wise man would let the salmon alone most days and fish for trout instead, but the temptation of the stronger excitement was hard to resist, and he laments the blank days he spent.

56. Hell's Hole at Malin Head

    near Malin Head · promontory · Donegal

    About half a mile west of the signal tower at Malin Head lies a striking cliff and a curious gap in the rocks known locally as Hell's Hole, where there is a continual inflow of water with no apparent outflow.

    Read the passage

    Rhododendrons were in bloom there in quantities, and I noticed hydrangeas by a roadside cottage a little further on. The road, a fairly level one, follows the shore of Trawbreaga Bay, then turns inland, and after a good deal of winding uphill you see a long flat expanse below you with a low headland at the extremity, and that is Malin Head. You ride up to the coastguard station which is on the right of the Head ; continue along the road which skirts the sea on this side, although in parts you will have to dismount. Very soon you will see Lloyd's signal station. Ride as far as the road will take you, and then leave your bicycle in one of the houses and walk up to the tower. It stands on the top' of a lowish hill of smooth green turf. The tower itself is one of the old signal towers erected a hundred years ago in the Napoleonic times. Its only inhabitants are two boys, who spend their days there to work the signals. It is a lonely spot in all conscience, but the slender wire which runs up the hillside and in at the tower window, keeps it in constant and living intercourse with the great mart of Liverpool and the ingoing and outgoing of ships. Outside the tower is the flagstaff flying its signal, a red flag above a blue one with a white circle on it ' What ship is that ? ' And below them is the red and white pennon for answering signals. Beside that is a tall semaphore for signalling to the coastguard station. The Head proper lies about half a mile away to the west, and you ought to walk out there to see the cliff, which though not very high is a striking one, and the curious gap in the rocks where there is a continual inflow of water with no apparent outflow, locally called Hell's Hole. But the great beauty of Malin is the view looking up the west side of Inishowen and the mouth of Lough Swilly. Dunaff Head looks extraordinarily fine, and away in the background are all the Swilly hills on both shores. Looking westward the view is bounded by Horn Head, and on a clear day you can see Tory lying off it. Just north-east of Malin lies Inistrahull, where there is a lighthouse, much needed, for

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 135

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Malin Head, the road follows the shore of Trawbreaga Bay, then turns inland, and after a good deal of winding uphill a long flat expanse opens below with a low headland at the extremity. That is Malin Head. The old signal tower stands on a low hill of smooth green turf, put up a hundred years ago in Napoleonic times. When this account was written two boys lived there to work the signals. A slender wire ran up the hillside and in at the tower window, keeping the lonely spot in touch with Liverpool and the movement of ships in and out. Outside, a flagstaff flew its signal, a red flag above a blue one with a white circle on it, asking "What ship is that?" Below them was a red and white pennon for answering signals. A tall semaphore stood beside it for signalling to the coastguard station. The Head proper lies to the west of the tower. Walk out there and you will find the cliff, not very high but striking, and a curious gap in the rocks where there is a continual inflow of water with no apparent outflow. Locally it is called Hell's Hole. The great beauty of the place is the view up the west side of Inishowen and the mouth of Lough Swilly. Dunaff Head looks extraordinarily fine, and in the background are all the Swilly hills on both shores. Looking westward the view is bounded by Horn Head, and on a clear day you can see Tory lying off it. Just north-east of Malin lies Inistrahull, where there is a lighthouse.

57. Napoleonic signal tower ruin at Malin Head

    near Malin Head · promontory · Donegal

    A ruined signal tower stands near the cliff brow at the Sturrell or Spire point by Malin Head. Gillespie's guide knew an old man who had worked on it during the Napoleonic wars.

    Read the passage

    Discussing these things, we got to the brow of the cliff. Eight hundred feet sheer below, one could see through the mist a sort of ghost of the surf — a very impressive sight. Just by us was the ruin of an old signal tower. Gillespie had known an old man who remembered having wrought at it in the days of Napoleonic war. It was just off here, near Malin Head, that Sir John Warren sighted Bompart's invading squadron in 1798, on board of which was Wolfe Tone. But that story has to be told when we get to Rathmullen, as the story of Columba must be when we get to his birthplace at Gartan.

    We plunged along the cliff front in the driving mist, and ultimately struck a road leading out to the Sturrell itself, which is a high conical piece of rock, with a limitless drop below it. At this point the youths of that side of the Glen are in the habit of climbing down the cliff face in search of strayed sheep. From the Sturrell there should be a view of the Rosses and Aranmore, far away north ; but this day we could not even see Tormore, the island a couple of miles out, famous as a wonderful gathering of sea-birds in the breeding season, ill-reputed for a recent fatal boating accident. Having seen we came down, passing Columbkille's holy well, which is not a place where cures

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Malin Head, near the brow of the cliff, stands the ruin of an old signal tower. Eight hundred feet below, surf breaks against the rocks. Gillespie's guide knew an old man who remembered working on the tower during the Napoleonic wars. It was just off this coast that Sir John Warren sighted Bompart's invading squadron in 1798, with Wolfe Tone on board. That story belongs to Rathmullen, and the story of Columba belongs to his birthplace at Gartan. The road runs out to the Sturrell, a high conical rock with a limitless drop below it. At this point the youths of that side of the Glen climb down the cliff face searching for strayed sheep. From the Sturrell there should be a view of the Rosses and Aranmore, far away north. On a clear day you would see Tormore too, an island a couple of miles out, famous for its gathering of sea-birds in the breeding season, ill-reputed for a recent fatal boating accident. Passing back down, there is Columbkille's holy well.

58. Oak Park estate of the Wray family

    Oakpark · street · Kerry · 1603

    Oak Park near Letterkenny belonged to the Wray family, who received lands after the earliest forfeitures in Tyrconnell. John Wray was granted 1000 acres near Letterkenny in 1603 for services against the Earls, and his descendants remained.

    Read the passage

    That was not the only struggle between the two great clans fought out on the Swilly shores. If you leave the Ramelton road at Ballymaleel, three miles from Letterkenny, and turn to the right, the road takes you along the eastern arm of the lough, and here you pass the places of several gentry, set among fine wooding on the south-west shore. The first of them, Oak Park, belongs to the YVray family, who date from the earliest forfeitures in Tyrconnell. John Wray, for his services against the Earls, received in 1603 1000 acres near Letterkenny, and his descendants are there yet ; though Castle Wray, the next place to Oak Park, is now in the hands of the Mansfield family, who were among the settlers in 1610 after the Plight of the Earls ; and Ards, the great and beautiful Wray estate, at Dunfanaghy, passed from its owners three generations ago. Next to Castle Wray is Castle Grove, then Ardrummon, another house of the Mansfields ; and next to that again Fort Stewart, an estate which is still held by the lineal representative of one of James I.'s baronets; but the old mansion stood near the adjoining house of Shellfield. All these prosperous Protestant gentry represent the descendants of those who came in when the disaster at Kinsale and the final crash of 1607, left Ulster with neither an O'Neill nor an O'Donnell to resist the English. But there is trace of the older nobility and the older creed in the ruins of Killydonnell Abbey, close to Fort Stewart, which an O'Donnell founded in the sixteenth century for the Franciscan Brothers : (Killydonnell means the Church of the O'Donnells). In 1558 Hugh Boy O'Donnell (the Fair) died there in the odour of sanctity, as his father, Hugh Duv, (the Dark) had died in the Donegal Abbey. But in this very same year Calvagh O'Donnell, the redoubtable son of Manus, to whom the Earldom of Tyrconnell was offered for the first time, had attacked the still more redoubtable Shane O'Neill. Shane and Calvagh should have been friends, for their positions were very similar.

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 76

    As the companion tells it

    Along here you pass Oak Park, belonging to the Wray family, who date from the earliest forfeitures in Tyrconnell. John Wray, for his services against the Earls, received in 1603 1000 acres near Letterkenny, and his descendants are there yet. Castle Wray, the next place to Oak Park, is now in the hands of the Mansfield family, who were among the settlers in 1610 after the Flight of the Earls. Ards, the great and beautiful Wray estate at Dunfanaghy, passed from its owners three generations ago. Next to Castle Wray is Castle Grove, then Ardrummon, another house of the Mansfields, and next to that again Fort Stewart, an estate still held by the lineal representative of one of James I's baronets. The old mansion stood near the adjoining house of Shellfield. All these prosperous Protestant gentry represent the descendants of those who came in when the disaster at Kinsale and the final crash of 1607 left Ulster with neither an O'Neill nor an O'Donnell to resist the English. But there is trace of the older nobility and the older creed in the ruins of Killydonnell Abbey, close to Fort Stewart, which an O'Donnell founded in the sixteenth century for the Franciscan Brothers. Killydonnell means the Church of the O'Donnells. In 1558 Hugh Boy O'Donnell the Fair died there in the odour of sanctity, as his father Hugh Duv the Dark had died in the Donegal Abbey.

59. River Bush salmon fishing near the Causeway

    near Bush River · river · Antrim

    The River Bush flows out into a sandy bay near the Causeway, winding sluggishly through sand-hills. A foot-bridge crosses it about a hundred yards upstream, and the author notes with regret that salmon in this river are generally caught with the worm.

    Read the passage

    Leaving Dunluce and getting back on to the road, you proceed for about three-quarters of a mile round the shoulder of a hill, then you open the valley of the Bush river, lying between you and Runkerry Point. On the other side of Runkerry is the Causeway. Your simplest plan is of course to follow the main road past Bushmills (where is the generating station of the electric railway), altogether a fairly level run of four miles. But this road takes you inland by a considerable detour, and there is a much prettier way by the sea, which I recommend if the tide happens to be low. Just where you round the hill a steepish road runs to the left to the little village of Port Ballintrae, a coastguard station and watering place. Ride through the town keeping close to the sea, and the road will take you to the end of a new terrace : beyond that you have to contend with nature. Lift your machine over a stile and you are on a hillside of short grassy turf with a foottrack well marked across it ; this you can ride for the most part, and admire on the far side of the bay Lord Macnaghten's huge house, Runkerry Castle, standing bare and unprotected on the seaward slope. But it must not engage your whole attention or you may break the back of your machine. After about a quarter of a mile on the grass you come to another stile, and beyond it is the river Bush, flowing out into the sandy bay. About a hundred yards up to your right is a foot- bridge over the quiet, but pretty river, which winds sluggishly through sand-hills. I regret to say that in this river salmon are generally caught with the worm. Having got to the far side, wheel your machine along the river bank to the beach, and at low tide you will get a mile or more of fine hard sand to ride over. At the far side is a cart track, which you must lead over, and it will take you up to the road near the Causeway station and hotels. That was the plan which I had laid out for myself, but, the tide being in, I was reduced to riding my machine

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    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 161

60. Sea caves of Horn Head

    near Horn Head · promontory · Donegal

    On a still day one can approach Horn Head by boat and enter huge caves, which open up mysterious arches higher than a cathedral roof. A blue light reveals their full extent, but few days tempt the average person to boat round the grim headland.

    Read the passage

    On a still day you can approach in the boat and get into the huge caves, which a blue light — if you have one — will show you opening up mysterious arches higher than a cathedral roof. But it is not by any means all days that tempt the average person to boat round that grim headland, and there are points in favour of taking your walk round the cliffs. The road on to the Horn leads over a bridge, across the arm of tideway, where it narrows and passes Horn Head House, a property that has been in the present family's possession since a Stewart raised men to fight for King James against the O'Neills.

    The road winds up, through a numberless colony of rabbits, and finally leaves you in the centre of the headland. Hence you make your way to the cliff, on top of which stands the ruins of a signal station. Keeping on to the north you ultimately reach the Horn, a highest point of the cliff, two jutting crags of rock ; from which you can drop a pebble to the water 626 feet below. You will see, probably, two or three black specks like water-spiders below you • these are curraghs, the native type of boat, which consist of hide or, more often, of tarred canvas stretched over a frame of wicker-work. They are buoyant as corks, but easily upset ; and if you wear boots — the people who use them are generally barefoot — nothing is simpler than to put your heel or toe through the canvas.

    Internet Archive highwaysbywaysin00gwyn_0, Chapter 100