Name: Ireland. Dublin, the Shannon, Limerick, Cork, and the Kilkenny races, the round towers, the lakes of Killarney, the county of Wicklow ... and the Giant's causeway
Author: J. G. (Johann Georg) Kohl (1808–1878)

Read the copy these stories were drawn from on the Internet Archive.

190: stories drawn from it
190: placed on the map
19: counties: Antrim, Clare, Cork and more
14,106: words in the passages on this page

The stories, best first

page 2 of 4 · 190 in all

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

Cork Fever Hospital and the Typhus Epidemic

Cork · city · Cork · 1839

The fever hospital at Cork, one of the best in Ireland, treated between 1600 and 2000 patients annually, mostly suffering from typhus fever caused by want, hunger, bad diet, scarcity of fuel and damp climate. In 1839 it held 1970 patients, of whom 1856 were fever cases.

Read the passage

Another interesting institution at Cork is the fever hcTspit«!. It is one of the best in Ireland^ and the Cork people boast that fewer patients die there than in any other fever hospital It contains on an average from 1600 to 2000 patients. The principal tow« of every Irish county contains a fever hospital. These general<y receive only fever pj^ients, bqt occasional exceptions are made in favour of those afllicted by other maladies. In the year 1839 the hos- . pital at Cork contained 1970 patients in all». ;i856 of whom were fever patients.
Fevers of all kinds are veir prevalent in Ireland, particularly that worst forn? of nervous fever, the typhus fever. Indeed th$ typhus fever is so much the most fj-equent, that if " fever'*' is mentioned the typhus is always understood. The infectious nature of this disease, as well a» its terrible prevalence, has led to the buildinff. of separate hospitals for those alSlicted by it,, not only in all considerable Irish towns, but ia those English cities. Containing, lars^ colonies of poor Irish, such as Glasgow, Mancbeater^. and London.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 32

As the companion tells it

As the road takes you through Cork, this city held one of the best fever hospitals in Ireland. The local people boasted that fewer patients died there than in any other such hospital. It averaged between 1600 and 2000 patients a year. In 1839 it held 1970 patients in all, 1856 of them fever cases. Typhus fever was the worst form of nervous fever and so much the most frequent that if "fever" was mentioned, the typhus was always understood. The disease was infectious and so terribly prevalent that separate hospitals were built for those afflicted by it, not only in considerable Irish towns but in English cities containing large colonies of poor Irish, such as Glasgow, Manchester, and London.
Cottiers' huts hidden in the landscape near Dublin's fertile plains

Meath · county · Meath

Travelling through the rich counties west of Dublin, the author describes how amid rocks and bogs one might stumble upon low-roofed huts, indistinguishable from the ground, swarming with people and potatoes, revealing extreme rural poverty even in Ireland's most prosperous region.

Read the passage

may give way under bis feet, and he may ihfi into—What! into an abyss, a cavern, a bogi — No, into a but, into a human dwelling-place, whose existence he had oyerlooked, because the roof ou one side was level with the ground, and nearly of the same consistency. Perhaps my traveller may draw back his foot just in time, and then let him look around, and he will fina the place filled with a multitude of similar huts, all swarming with life and potatoes.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog

As the companion tells it

As you travel through County Meath, one of the richest stretches west of Dublin, the ground itself can hide a dwelling. A traveller might feel the earth give way beneath his foot, not into a bog or a cavern, but into a hut, a human dwelling-place whose roof on one side was level with the ground. Looking around, he would find a multitude of similar huts, all swarming with life and potatoes.
Father Mathew's temperance hall reception at Kilrush

Kilrush · town · Clare · 1838

At Kilrush, the author visited the decorated temperance hall where Father Mathew was expected, describing the banners of corporate bodies, the crowd's religious enthusiasm, and the strong link between the temperance movement and Irish nationalist sentiment.

Read the passage

My companion had still many things to ar- ^xange, so, having seen the haU^ 1 wem out into 4he yard in front, where two tallow candles fixed upon the doorposts threw a weak fliQlrering light mpon the assembled moltitnde. Men aod women were crowding upon each other;iD the street, and boys had perched themselves on the walls <and enclosures. I heard mßny people say that Father Mathew had already arrived; that a deputation of the temperance mei^ had been om lo meet him; that be had only gone ^ to rest a hit after his joumev" at the house of the priest ; and that he would soon make his appearance. The enthusiasm of the multitude impressed me , with something of a religious awe, and I thought of scenes in the history of the apostles, and of their descriptions of tbeir journeys, and of the Joany small towns they visited.
father Mathew instituted the Irish Temper- HBce Associatien on the 10th of April, 1838, since when he has been constantly travelling about, like the apostles in Greece and Asia Mittor, partlv by his eloquence and encouragement to strengthen the fidelity of those already enrolU 'ed in the great cause, and partly to receive the 4>tedge from those who wish to become members ' of the association, on whom he then bestows his niedal and blessing. The greater part of the {ear he spends in travelling about; the rest at 'Uork, his usual place of residence. *

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Kilrush in Clare, you are on the ground where Father Mathew was awaited at the decorated temperance hall. Tallow candles fixed on the doorposts threw a weak flickering light over a great crowd of men and women pressing together in the street, with boys perched on the walls. The people said he had already arrived, that a deputation of temperance men had gone out to meet him, and that he was resting at the priest's house before making his appearance. The enthusiasm of the multitude struck the visitor with something of a religious awe, bringing to mind the journeys of the apostles through the small towns of Greece and Asia Minor. Father Mathew instituted the Irish Temperance Association on the 10th of April 1838, and since then spent the greater part of the year travelling about, partly to strengthen those already enrolled and partly to receive the pledge from new members, on whom he bestowed his medal and blessing. The rest of the year he passed at Cork, his usual place of residence.
Galway contribution and debate over Connaught graziers' fears

Galway · city · Galway · 1843

A contribution from Galway prompts O'Connell to address fears among Connaught's large graziers that Repeal would harm cattle exports to England, which he dismisses by arguing English demand for Irish cattle will persist regardless of union status.

Read the passage

Next followed a •ubseriptibn froM the wotttbai of Limerick, which called forth from O'ConlitMl some complimentary remarks lo the f^ir ii^abitants of that city, who, on the motion of Tom Steele, were greeted with three loud and ringr ing cheers. A contribution from Galvvay called O'Connell again on his legs. There were no tmer Irish hearts anywhere, be said, than in Con naught, hut he was aware that the large graziers there dreaded a repeal of the union, as Hkely to lead in England to the imposition of tn import duty on Irish cattle.
*' I look up<m every apprehension of the kind,** he continued, ** as entirely unfounded. Do ftm. believe the English will be less hungry after tho repeal of the union than they are now t I believe tbey will have as much appetite then at ever they had. They like onr cattle now better than what they get fVom abroad, and hereafter, when we are independent again, oor meadow» and our cornfields will be better cultivated, akid we shall be able to offer them better cattle tliMa we can now. And shoald they then refuse to take it, because it was not onion eatlie, why, I believe that our independence would awaken a» to increased industry, and we should soon be able to buy the Connaught cattle for onr own consumption, without being at all beholden t» England for taking>it o'ff our bands. Besides, we know that the union aflbrds no protection te oor graziers, for the English will certainly be deterred by no consideration for us firom getting their cattle elsewhere, if they can boy it diesiger and better than they can from as. On this pant the new tariff has suflSciently enlightened m, in. draviring up which, not the least coneideratioa was shown for our interests ; and if that tariff has had no greater influence on oor cattle trade than it has, the reason is, that they can get sapplied by us with a better and a comparatively cheaper article than by the foreigner."

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 51

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Galway, this city had a part in the great Repeal movement of 1843. A contribution from Galway brought Daniel O'Connell to his feet at a public meeting. He praised the people of Connaught, saying there were no truer Irish hearts anywhere, but he knew the large graziers there dreaded repeal of the union. They feared England would impose an import duty on Irish cattle. O'Connell dismissed the concern entirely. He asked whether the English would be less hungry after repeal than they were now, and said they would have as much appetite as ever. The English liked Irish cattle better than what they got from abroad, and when Ireland was independent again, its meadows and cornfields would be better cultivated, offering better cattle than before. If England refused to take them because they were no longer union cattle, Irish independence would awaken increased industry, and the country would soon buy Connaught cattle for its own consumption without being beholden to England. He pointed out that the union afforded no real protection to graziers anyway, since the English would buy elsewhere if they found cattle cheaper and better. The new tariff had shown no consideration for Irish interests, yet it had not harmed the cattle trade, because Ireland supplied a better and cheaper article than any foreign competitor.
Gamble's Preserved Provision Warehouse in Cork

Cork · city · Cork

The author toured Mr. Gamble's warehouse in Cork, a patent preserved fresh provision merchant supplying the Royal Navy and East India Company, where meat, milk and cream were packed airtight to remain fresh for years, even when sent around the world.

Read the passage

trade is one which has been only established in ' Ireland during the last twenty years, and the art has lately been brought to an extraordinary <legree of perfection, which out of Great Britain it could never have attained, since no other country has occasion to send all kinds of provisions to such distant regions of the globe. I went over the great establishment of Mr. Gamble, " Patent ifi-eserved Fresh Provision Merchant to her Majesty's NavyJ^and to the Honourable the East India Company." In his warehouses I saw eatables ^f all imaginary kinds, so skilfully packed up m tin or pewter cases, that they would keep quite fresh for years together. Even milk and cream are so skilfully prepared and packed, that if a traveller take a case with him on a voyage round the world, ' and open it in the Indian Ocean or the South Pacific, he will find its contents as fresh and sweet as if just drawn from the cow. The principal points to be observed are the closeness and imperviousness of the vessel, the choice of the best quality of everything, and the keeping the provisions themselves, as well as ^he vessels in which they are contained, completely air-tight.
To what perfection this art of preserving has been carried, is proved by the testimony of Captain Ross. In the year 1824, he bought diflTerent cases of vegetables to take with him on hia Northern Expedition. Many of these cases remained behind in the stranded ship Fury, and were not found again till the month of August, 1838, that is,, nine years afterward. And although during this period they had been subjected to all the extremes of that northern climate—in winter to a cold of fifty-two degrees below zero of Fahrenheit, and in summer to a heat of eighty degrees— yet when the ca^s were opened their contents were foupd perfect^ • ly fresh and eatable.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 30

As the companion tells it

Coming through Cork, you are near where Mr. Gamble ran his great warehouse, a preserved fresh provision merchant to her Majesty's Navy and to the Honourable the East India Company. The trade had been established in Ireland only during the last twenty years, yet the art had been brought to an extraordinary degree of perfection. In his warehouses there were eatables of all imaginable kinds, skilfully packed in tin or pewter cases, so they would keep quite fresh for years together. Even milk and cream were so prepared and packed that if a traveller took a case on a voyage round the world and opened it in the Indian Ocean or the South Pacific, the contents would be as fresh and sweet as if just drawn from the cow. The principal points observed were the closeness and imperviousness of the vessel, the choice of the best quality of everything, and keeping the provisions and the vessels completely air-tight. To what perfection this art had been carried is proved by the testimony of Captain Ross. In 1824 he bought different cases of vegetables to take on his Northern Expedition. Many of these cases remained behind in the stranded ship Fury, and were not found again until August 1838, nine years afterward. During that period they had been subjected to all the extremes of that northern climate, in winter to a cold of 52 degrees below zero of Fahrenheit, and in summer to a heat of 80 degrees. Yet when the cases were opened, their contents were found perfectly fresh and eatable.
Inniscaltra: seven churches, round tower, and St. Patrick's Purgatory tradition

near Inishcaltra or Holy Island · townland · Clare

On Lough Derg, the island of Inniscaltra is described as an ancient holy place containing the ruins of seven venerable churches and a round tower. A dispute arose over whether St. Patrick's Purgatory, once known to half the Christian world, was located here, with the tradition holding that St. Patrick prevailed on God to place the entrance to purgatory in Ireland.

Read the passage

Ofthti lakes that like so many rich pearls are strung upon the silver thread of the Shannon. Lough Reeand Lough Bodarrig, lying in a level countiy, and in a great measure surrounded by bogs, priesent. liule that is pleasing to the eye» Lougb Allen Is situated almost wnolly witnii^. the mountainoius districts of the north, and a large portion of Lou|[h Deig is made picturesque by the mountains of the south. Liice all Irish lakes. Lough Deig contains a number of smalt green islands, of which the most renowned is Inniscaltra, an ancient holy place, containing the ruins of seven venerable chnrehes of great antiquity, apd the remains of one of those re^ markabfe columnal erections known in Irelanil ueder the name of ^* round towers." We passed the sacred isle at the distance of a mile and a half, but we could very distinctly make out ali its monuments by the aid of a telescope. A monc. the Irish a dispute arose whether "St. Patrick? purgatory" was to be sought for here, or on an island in one of the upper lakes. A similar tradition may have attached itself to seteral islands^ hat St. Patrick's puigatory, as known at one lime to half the Chrijstian world, and still to the whole learned world of Irel^ni, was undoubtedly situated in Inniscaltra. The Irish tradition was that St. Patrick had prevailed on God to place the entrance to purgairiry in Ireland, that the unbelievers might the more readily be convinced of the immortality of the soul, and of the sufferings that awaited the wicked after 4eath. A

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 15
Land ownership of Irish towns

Tralee · townland · Kerry

The author notes that Irish towns belong not to their inhabitants but to great landed proprietors, citing Tralee owned by the Denny family, Waterford by the Marquis of Waterford, and Belfast by the Marquis of Donegal.

Read the passage

These Irish towns in fact all belong, not to the ^tizens who inhabit them, but to certain great ianded proprietors. Thus Tralee belongs to the family of Denny, Waterford to the Marquis of Waterford, and even Belfast, a town with 60,000 inhabitants, is the property of one man, the Marquis of Donegal.
At Kenmare we found a suspension bridge, the only one in Ireland. The peninsula on the opposite side of the river, was, however, jqpl as barren and desolate as the one we had just left. Some of the mountains scattered over it are called the Glanerought mountains, and one is st3rled the Hcmgry Hill, an appellation extremely suitable to all the hills of Kerry. On the map are here laid down several rivers, which, although it was not the time of year when they were likely to be dry, I could not discover. Not even one of the little brooks was to be seen, in which our wood-cdvered Gterman hills are so abounding. The deposits of moisture from the atmosphere remain mostly in the morasses and bogs above described, and the hills and mountains may be regarded as huge sponges, which suck up the humidity at some seasons and at others become again dry and withered. They contain very few perennial springs.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 25

As the companion tells it

Somewhere close to Tralee, you are in a town that belongs not to its inhabitants but to a great landed proprietor. The author notes that Irish towns in fact all belong to certain great proprietors rather than the citizens who live in them. Tralee belongs to the Denny family. Waterford belongs to the Marquis of Waterford. And even Belfast, a town with 60,000 inhabitants, is the property of one man, the Marquis of Donegal. At Kenmare the author found a suspension bridge, the only one in Ireland. The peninsula on the opposite side of the river was just as barren and desolate as the one just left. Some of the mountains scattered over it are called Glanerought mountains, and one is styled the Hungry Hill, an appellation extremely suitable to all the hills of Kerry. Several rivers are laid down on the map, but though it was not the time of year when they were likely to be dry, the author could not discover them. Not even one little brook was to be seen. Moisture from the atmosphere remains mostly in the morasses and bogs, and the hills and mountains may be regarded as huge sponges, sucking up the humidity at some seasons and at others becoming dry and withered. They contain few perennial springs.
Tenant-at-will conditions under Mr. Gage on Rathlin

near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim · 1740

The island's owner Mr. Gage, descendant in title of the Bruce dominion, holds Rathlin as a vassal of the Antrim family under a lease granted in 1740. His tenants hold their land 'at will' and could be evicted and driven from the island at his pleasure.

Read the passage

The present successor of Robert Brace in the dominion of the island fs a Mr. Gage, who being also rector and chief magistrate, is at the same time temporal and spiritual head of Rathlin, besides being the ground landlord, and rules it by more titles than many a king does his kingdom^ although the external splendour of a crown may be wanting to him. This gentleman is a vassal of the Antrim family, holding the i>land by a lease for ever, granted in 1740^ and pays a trifliDg ' tribute to Lord Antrim, who, though Mr. Gage is the proprietor, bears the title of Chief of Rathlin, but never attempts to interfere in the aflTaiis of the island. The tenanU of the rector are aH what are called tenants ** at vrill,'* that is, they can. at his pleasure he deprived of their land and driven from the island. Mr. Gage; if he were so inclined, might fix his residence at Dnblin, or any other place, and farm out its revenues to a middleman, who might again divide and distribute the island to other middlemen, and so there might be an ascending ladder, up to the sovereign herself (to whom, under certain circumstances, the island may revert), the whole weight of whichwould press on the neck of the wretched tenant, as it really happens in many cases in Ireland.
One of the conditions, uader which, not only this island but all the possessions of the'Antrimi family, would fall to the crown, is that of failing to send a certain number of falcons to the viceroy of Ireland, on the anniversary of the feast of St. John the Baptist. In the same nranaer the island of Rathlin would revert to the Antritt family if Mr. Gage should neglect payment of the tribute, or " Chief-rent."

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 80
The famed myrtles of Glenarm and the Giant's Causeway model

near Glenarm · village · Antrim

The author revisited Glenarm and noted its myrtles as the largest and most splendid in all Ireland, so renowned that a gardener from Kew made a special pilgrimage to study them; at Glenarm Castle he was shown a model of the Giant's Causeway and a large piece of Irish rock crystal from a basaltic cavern.

Read the passage

It is usually stated that the snow never lies on this coast, when, a few miles inland, the bills are covered with it to a great depth. How this may be I know not, hut at all events I can bear witness that on this wild coast, snow falls as early as in the beginning qf October. Nevertheless, at many of the farmhouses we passed« quantities of roses in full bloom were glowing from beneath the snow, and the jpyrtles of Glenarm, which I now again visited, and which^ are the largest and most splendid in all Ireland, testified that for themi, at least, the winter ba4 no terrors. I was told that one of the gardeners from the Royal Gardens of Kew, late^ made a pilgrimage to the north of Ireland purposely to visit them, and to examine closely all the circumstances connected with their position. Amongst other curiosities exhibited to me at the castle of Glenarm, is a model of the Giant's Causeway, and a very large piece of Irish rock crystal, from one of the basaltic caverns. It was nearly five inches long, and is said to be one of the largest ever found. I learni here also that the northern Irish s^lways call the basalt " whinstone,'* whin signifying the furze or gorse, so common in Ireland, and wliich grows abundantly among the basait. The fair lady who gave me this in formation, also Uikl me tliat what in Euglanil is called a family name, here is usually ^ed among the coAiim/utfi .people the ** c/tf7t«-nanip,** atul that if I wi^died to have a clear idea of what is meant b^ it, I should remember the way in which ,tbe phrase
tftfii^Afl»»

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 89
A living skeleton beggar near Kilrush

Kilrush · town · Clare

The author encountered a ragged, emaciated beggar near Kilrush so wasted he resembled a scarecrow, comparing him to the famous 'Living Skeleton' exhibited in England, which had reportedly come from Ireland, reflecting on the effects of habitual famine.

Read the passage

In passing one field, I noticed a £gnre that bore a striking resemblance to one of those dressed-up mannikins which in Germany weare accustomed to stick up in a cornfield of a kitcbeo-garden to IMgfaten away the birds. A congregation of rags and tatteis weee flapping in the wind, the remains of a hat bung where the head ought to have been, and two sticks, for legSj projected from his garments. Suddenly this figure, which had deceived me while it stood still, moved up towaids me to ask ihr alms, and I now saw before me the complete picture of a well-known spectral apparition that was shown in England some years agounderthe title of the Living Skeleton. The said Livin^g Skeleton, by-tbe-by, came IWm Ireland« Dee» the habitual famine of so larepe a portion of the population tend to the multipHcatian of sad$, morbid specimens of humanity 1
We carried with us the letter bags intended for the several villages and country seats lyiag^ away fVom the road. At every stage we saw one of these living scarecrows waiting to take* charge of the bags intended for die adjoining localities. The fxatmen tried to arrang^e their rags in a way to protect the correspondence of the country from the effects of the weather. As I looked on these ragged, starved beings, I could not help thinking of the comfortable-looking &U lows to whom, in Prussia and Saxony, is entrusted the not unimportant duty of forwardine the public correspondence from village to vil-

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17

As the companion tells it

Coming through Kilrush, here in Clare, the road passes the kind of place where a traveller once saw something that stayed with him. He was crossing a field when he noticed a figure that looked like one of those dressed-up mannikins you stick in a cornfield to frighten away the birds. A congregation of rags and tatters was flapping in the wind, the remains of a hat hung where the head ought to have been, and two sticks for legs projected from the garments. Suddenly this figure, which had deceived him while it stood still, moved towards him to ask for alms. He now saw before him the complete picture of a well-known spectral apparition shown in England some years ago under the title of the Living Skeleton. That Living Skeleton, by the way, came from Ireland. Does the habitual famine of so large a portion of the population tend to the multiplication of such morbid specimens of humanity. They carried with them the letter bags intended for the several villages and country seats lying away from the road. At every stage they saw one of these living scarecrows waiting to take charge of the bags. The postmen tried to arrange their rags to protect the correspondence from the weather. Looking on these ragged, starved beings, the author could not help thinking of the comfortable-looking fellows to whom, in Prussia and Saxony, is entrusted the duty of forwarding the public correspondence from village to village.
Brian Boru's March Played by Blind Harper at Drogheda

Drogheda · town · Louth · 1014

A blind young harper performs 'Brian Boru's March' at the Drogheda soirée, commemorating the Irish king who united Ireland and defeated the Danes at Clontarf in 1014 before being killed shortly after the victory.

Read the passage

The harp was brought out, and a blind young harper advanced, who was, as I was told, one of the most distinguished harpers in the neighbourhood ; and in fact his music enraptured us all. The first piece he played was " Brian Boru's March." Brian Born was a great Irish hero, who raised himself to be king of all Ireland, and defeated the Danes at the great battle of Clontarf, in 1014. Shortly after the battle, however, he was kUled by the Danish leader
8S

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Drogheda, there is a story from a soirée here where a blind young harper played 'Brian Boru's March.' He was said to be one of the most distinguished harpers in the neighbourhood, and his music enraptured everyone. The march honours Brian Boru, a great Irish hero who made himself king of all Ireland and defeated the Danes at the battle of Clontarf in 1014. He was killed shortly after that victory by the Danish leader.
Car accident on the road from Listowel

Listowel · town · Kerry

Shortly after leaving Listowel, Kohl's hired car overturned when the girth gave way after the driver spurred the horse to greater speed, tipping the car and its passengers into the road, though no one was seriously hurt.

Read the passage

We had got but a short way from Listowel^ when there happened to us an accident whieh» harnessed as thty are, is by no means aa uncommon one for Irish cars^ to meet with» Oar merry driver^ to show the mettle of his horse, be?an to stimulate him to-inereased speed. The gallant courser, however, disapproving of the manner of Paddy's persuasion, began to kick, and then fairly ran away with us. As he was going the right wav, we, at first, reconciled our* selves to the rapidity of his pace, but in a little while, the girth, on which the whole economy of these primitive vehicles generaUly depends, gave way, and the ear, according to its usual practice on such occasions, tipped over,and deposited us and our bag&rage in the {ligh road, k was the first time it had happened to me to be over* turned in a carriage, and it was of som^ inferest to me to follow the course of>aiy thoughts, which succeeded eaeh other wiA the rapidity of.ifght-« ning. When I beeame perieetly conscious ol what bad happened, and while the shaft of th«« car was still describing its semicircle in the air, I thought to myself, '< This may be a serious accident. The car and all the Imrgage may fall or my head, and put an end at once to all my observatioBs on Irish peculiarities. If I eome off with a bruise or two, or a broken finger, how thankforl I ooght to be-." When, howevj^r, we all got npon our legs again, and ibimd we were, none of us hurt, though all well bedaubed with mud, and with a rent here and there in our garments, all our gratitude to Providence seenked to be gone, and to have given way to a general feelinef of indignation against the clumsiness of our driver. Such is nan. Fainthearted in the hour of need, and veady to make any compact with Providenee; hot in , rosperity insolent, and
3*

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 20
Cork's Butter Market and Firkin Crane

Cork · city · Cork

Cork was described as the chief shipping port for the raw produce of southern Ireland, with its butter market and firkin crane among the most interesting sights. Butter brought from Kerry and surrounding grazing counties was inspected, weighed and stamped before being exported strongly salted to distant places.

Read the passage

In the neighbourhood of Oork are »Hoated the largest dairies of Ireland. Kerry and other grazing counties lying near, great quantities of butter, ham, bacon, meat, and cattle are brought to Cork, just as Dublin exports principally grain, because it lies in the midst of ah agricultural district. Butter being one of the principal 'wares of Cork, its butter market and firkin «crane are two of the most interesting sights in the town. The butter is brought to the town in little tubs called firkins, artd the weight and quality of each firkin are decided by a board of butter inspectors, whose chief is entitled a general crane>master. upon each firkin is stamped the quantity and quality, as fixed by the inspectors, and thus the oredit of the extensive Cork butter trade» is kept up. As Cork butter is often intended for very distant places, it is very strongly salted. The mountain butter of Kerry has the reputation of being very "firm in body," as the phrase is.
At the great provision merchants' warehous- •es enormous quantities of life stores are collected together. Huge and excellent hams are ranged in long rows, like the folios and octavos of a library. ' In the suburbs of Cork there are large slaughter-houses for pigs, in which thouaands of the inmates and reiit-payers of the Irish cabins annually expire. I should like to know with what thoughts and feelings poor hungry Paddy studies these vast libraries of bacon ! It is dreadful to think that the poor Irish should have to furnish other countries with such vast quantities of that which they themselves are starving for want pf. If Paddy, however, was but a little more industrious, be might keep many of these fine fat hams ia his own chimney, instead of seeing them sail away thousands of miles, to feed her Majesty's soldiers in thß Bast or West Indies.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 30

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, you are in the chief shipping port for the raw produce of southern Ireland. The largest dairies in the country stand in the neighbourhood, and Kerry and other grazing counties lying near send great quantities of butter, ham, bacon, meat, and cattle here, just as Dublin exports principally grain because it lies in an agricultural district. Butter being one of the principal wares of Cork, its butter market and firkin crane are two of the most interesting sights in the town. The butter comes in little tubs called firkins. A board of butter inspectors decides the weight and quality of each firkin, and their chief is entitled a general cranemaster. Upon each firkin is stamped the quantity and quality, as fixed by the inspectors, and thus the credit of the extensive Cork butter trade is kept up. As Cork butter is often intended for very distant places, it is very strongly salted. The mountain butter of Kerry has the reputation of being very firm in body, as the phrase is. At the great provision merchants' warehouses enormous quantities of life stores are collected. Huge and excellent hams are ranged in long rows, like the folios and octavos of a library. In the suburbs of Cork there are large slaughterhouses for pigs, in which thousands of the inmates and rent-payers of the Irish cabins annually expire. The writer says he should like to know with what thoughts and feelings poor hungry Paddy studies these vast libraries of bacon. It is dreadful, he says, to think that the poor Irish should furnish other countries with such vast quantities of that which they themselves are starving for want of. If Paddy was but a little more industrious, he might keep many of these fine fat hams in his own chimney, instead of seeing them sail away thousands of miles, to feed her Majesty's soldiers in the East or West Indies.
Gallery for the poor in Edgeworthtown's Protestant church

Edgeworthstown · town · Longford · 1780

In the small Protestant church at Edgeworthtown, Kohl found a wooden gallery erected sixty years earlier by a vicar specifically for the use of the poor, since the floor pews were monopolized by the wealthier congregation and the poor were otherwise excluded from worship.

Read the passage

In the little Protestant church at Edgeworthtown I found a wooden gallery, which, as I learned from an inscription, had been erected sixty years previously, by a vicar of the parish, for the exclusive use of the public at large. The small space on the' floor or the church was occupied wholly by the pews of the weahhier part or the congregation, so that the poor, who could not afford to pay pew-rent, were all but excluded from the place aC woiahip, as is generally the

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 8

As the companion tells it

Coming up is Edgeworthstown, in Longford. In the small Protestant church here, a vicar put up a wooden gallery around 1780, as an inscription records, for the use of the public at large. The floor pews were all held by the wealthier congregation, so the poor, who could not afford pew-rent, were all but excluded from the place of worship. The gallery gave them a way in.
Recent Ruins from Eviction and Emigration

Shannon · town · Clare

Along the road the author saw many recently built houses already falling into ruin, attributed to landlord eviction of tenants, emigration of poor occupiers, or lack of means for repair.

Read the passage

Aloug mv road I: passed through no. town ii^ which f (ud not behold houses of very feeent construction lulling into ruins. In some places I even saw ten or twelve such houses standing side by side. With the ruins of old castles and churches^ some sad poetical tradition of war and violence is usually associated ; these more modern ruins are connected with the yet sadder siocy of injustice committed in the time of peace. The cruel expulsion of a tenant by his landlord, or the emigration of the poor occupiers, or the wantof means to effect the necessary repairs, these are generally the causes assigned. Generally^ indeed) the people are not very communicative when you inquire into the matt«*. "Ah, sir^ it's a s^d story, and we'd better say nothing about it," is onen the only answer you can get.
The painter has least reason to complain, for as all descriptions of creeping plants are very abundant in Ireland,' Irish ri^ias geuerallj wear a very picturesque look. The beautiful ivy hangs its drapery round them all, wild roses, yews, and similar plants- nestle everywhere among the broken masonry-, and often have I seen the most wretched huts enveloped in a rich . full robe o^ivy, worthy to luxuriate around the tottering keep of what was once a royal castle. Many a hut I believe is made habitable only by the ivy that embrabes and upholds it

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 10
Scattery Island's Round Tower and Seven Churches

Scattery Island · townland · Clare

Kohl visits Scattery Island (Inniscattery) at the mouth of the Shannon, describing its Round Tower struck by lightning and split from top to bottom, and the remains of its 'Seven Churches.' The tower's south side is covered in moss while its north and west sides remain bare due to heavy winds.

Read the passage

The round tower stands a little to tbe side. Although not perfect, it belongs to ihe most picturesque in Ireland, for it has been struck by lightning, and has received a split on one side from top to bottom. On the south side it is covered completely with mosses and creeping plants ; on the north and west side it is bar6, the heavy winds, as tbe sailors told me. making all vegetation impossible there, l^ightning and vegeution are tlie worst enemies ,tbe round towers have to contend with, and it is strange that such active foes should not have been able to overiom tbe whole of them in a space of 2000 years.
All the land upon tl^e little island, except tbe cemetery, is pasturage. A. small battery has been erected here to protect the mouth of tbe Shannon, the entrance to wbicb river is defended by op less than six batteries and forts, while at the month of the Thames there is not one.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 18
Shillelagh gives its name to the Irish fighting stick

Shillelagh · town · Wicklow

Shillelagh is identified as a small village in County Wicklow near which the wooden clubs known as shillelaghs are made, and from which they take their name. The narrator notes the clubs look more harmless than their reputation for violence suggests.

Read the passage

wit^ whicli they perpetrtte a gtt^Hk flttay of tbek alrocitieB. Shitetagh is a littl^yiUagem the cdanty of WicMow» in ibQ nei^bhoarbood a( wbieh a great many of theiie clubs are mdde, and from wbich they derive their name. These clubs have a much more innoeent and harmless iq^pearaoce thaa might be expected. The AU puie mountaineers carry kmg, thick, iron-bound sta&, which have a mach more formidable appearance, but it is the use to which the sbile- Ugbs are commonly put which renders them terrible.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 37
Suspension bridge at Kenmare

Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1844

Kenmare, owned by the Earl of Kenmare, has the only suspension bridge in Ireland at the time. The town itself belongs entirely to the landed proprietor, not its citizens.

Read the passage

At Kenmare we found a suspension bridge, the only one in Ireland. The peninsula on the opposite side of the river, was, however, jqpl as barren and desolate as the one we had just left. Some of the mountains scattered over it are called the Glanerought mountains, and one is st3rled the Hcmgry Hill, an appellation extremely suitable to all the hills of Kerry. On the map are here laid down several rivers, which, although it was not the time of year when they were likely to be dry, I could not discover. Not even one of the little brooks was to be seen, in which our wood-cdvered Gterman hills are so abounding. The deposits of moisture from the atmosphere remain mostly in the morasses and bogs above described, and the hills and mountains may be regarded as huge sponges, which suck up the humidity at some seasons and at others become again dry and withered. They contain very few perennial springs.
The nlant which flourishes most here is the furze, wnose yellow blossoms frequently enliven the dark valleys, and burst from the chinks and crevices of the rocks.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 25

As the companion tells it

Somewhere around here in 1844, there is a suspension bridge, the only one in Ireland. You cross the river on it, but the peninsula on the far side is as barren and desolate as the one left behind. Some of the mountains scattered over it are called the Glanerought mountains, and one is styled the Hungry Hill, a name extremely suitable to all the hills of Kerry. The map lays down several rivers here, though it was not the time of year when they were likely to be dry, and the traveller could not discover them. Not even one little brook was to be seen, such as wood-covered German hills abound in. The deposits of moisture from the atmosphere remain mostly in morasses and bogs, and the hills and mountains may be regarded as huge sponges, which suck up the humidity at some seasons and at others become again dry and withered. They contain very few perennial springs. The plant which flourishes most here is the furze, whose yellow blossoms frequently enliven the dark valleys, and burst from the chinks and crevices of the rocks.
The Glens of Antrim: last refuge of Irish language on the east coast

near Glenariff · village · Antrim

The valleys of Glenariff, Cushendall and Cushendun, collectively called 'the Glens,' retained their Irish-speaking population even as surrounding country was settled by Scots and English. Kohl notes these glens and the area near Drogheda are the only parts of the east coast retaining the Irish language.

Read the passage

The valley of Glenarlff, or the valley of th© Caverns, forms a wider opening than that of Glenarm, and lies in the neighbourhood of several other valleys, as that of Cushendall, and Gnsfaendnn, and altogether bear the name of the Glens, or Glywns, and make quite a little separate province.' They lie buried among high mas^ es of mountains, and have retained the Irish population, and the Irish language, whilst the country all round them has been entirely peopled by Scotch and English settlers. These glens, and the neighbourhood of Drogheda, are, as far as I can make out, the only points on the whole east coast of Ireland which have retained the Irish language.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 78
The Ordnance Survey Map-Making Atelier at Phoenix Park

Phoenix Park · electoral division · Dublin

The great trigonometrical survey map of Ireland, vastly more detailed than any previous map, was being produced at an atelier in Phoenix Park near Dublin. Sixty persons worked on it for twelve years, though the author was surprised by the low education of many of the workmen employed there.

Read the passage

The attelier for this map is in Phoenix Park, near Dublin. ^Vhat surprised me most was the low stage of eduoaation and intelligence of some of the individuals employed on the work. In similar undertakings with us in Germany, all the assistants would be taken from the ed^ ucated classes. I might instance the great map of Saxony, which has been in hand aft Dresden for several years. Here, on the oontrary, those engaged in a subordinate capacity are mere common workmen who can understand but little of the nature of the work on which they are employed. Their deficiencies, in this respect, I have no doubt, are amply compensated by the 8ci<$ntific attainments of those by whom they are superintended. The work may not the less be a distinguished and complete one when finished, though the inferior workmen may not comprehend any part of it beyond what passes immediately through their hands.
What most interests a stranger in an Eng* lish library are the splendid and colossal works« which English perseverance, English art, and English money, have brought to maturity, aodi which We have seldom an opportunity of see« in any of our continental libraries. Among» the colossal works of this kind that I had an opportunity of seeing at Trinity College, waa one on Mexican Antiquities, the publication of which is said to have cost the author, Lord Kingsborough, more than £30,000. A work almost as complete as nature herself, is Lamberths description and pictorial representationaof the €renus Pinus. This Lambert devoted his taieots, his life, and his fortune, to the completion of this splendid work. It is charao» teristic of England to produce men who pov'« sees all these qualifications in a high degree,' and are willing to devote them to the exeoution of one work, or the attainment of one end. - In' Germany we never concentrate our means open one point. Lambert kept a number of exc^ lent artists in his employment, and made them repeat their work till he was quite satisted*' with what they produced. Never were pinetrees glorified by the hand of man as they have been in Lambert's work, which, however, with all its splendour, remains incomplete as compared with nature. There are said to exist' very few copies of this rare and magnificent work.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 56

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Phoenix Park, this is where the great trigonometrical survey map of Ireland was produced, an atelier near Dublin. Sixty persons worked on it for twelve years, producing a map vastly more detailed than any previous map of the country. What surprised the author most was the low stage of education and intelligence of some of the individuals employed on the work. In similar undertakings in Germany, all the assistants would be taken from the educated classes. He cites the great map of Saxony, which had been in hand at Dresden for several years. Here, on the contrary, those engaged in a subordinate capacity were mere common workmen who could understand but little of the nature of the work on which they were employed. Their deficiencies, he had no doubt, were amply compensated by the scientific attainments of those by whom they were superintended. The work might not be less distinguished and complete when finished, though the inferior workmen might not comprehend any part of it beyond what passed immediately through their hands. The author also visited Trinity College, where he saw splendid and colossal works which English perseverance, English art, and English money had brought to maturity. Among these was a work on Mexican Antiquities, said to have cost the author, Lord Kingsborough, more than 30,000 pounds. Another was Lambert's description and pictorial representations of the Genus Pinus, almost as complete as nature herself. Lambert devoted his talents, his life, and his fortune to the completion of this work. He kept excellent artists in his employment and made them repeat their work till he was satisfied. Never were pine trees glorified by the hand of man as they were in Lambert's work, which, however, remained incomplete as compared with nature. Very few copies of this rare and magnificent work are said to exist.
Tom O'Sullivan's fairy bagpipes tale in Kerry

Kerry · county · Kerry

A traveller named Tom O'Sullivan claimed that, after falling asleep in a place belonging to the 'good people' in Kerry, fairies taught him to play the bagpipes in his sleep, leaving the pipes beside him; upon waking he could play the tunes perfectly, a skill he retained for thirty years.

Read the passage

We have our ghosts and goblins tQo in Germany, but in general they have been seen only by that very indefinite personage "somebody;* and it would be difficult to find among us ^nv one who boasted of ocular acquaintance wifa the mysterious fraternity. Not so in Ireland. " Oh, your honourdon't bei (eve our fairy storie^," said one of my companions, who had observed me shaking my head as he was tö]ling one of his marvellous tales j "yet V\\ lay a wager there's many a man now abroad to wb(^m the strange$t things have happened, and which we must believe because they are plain, simple, indisputable facts. Now there's Tom 0*Sul|ivan, your honour, there he stands, and Tom^s one our best bagpipe players* in Kerry. Well," till after he was thirty,' Tom had never handled a bag of pipes in )iis life. It ha( pened, however, one day, that Tom was wandering among the hills, and lay dowu to sleep in a place that belonged to the * good people,^ and there are many such places in our country. Now, when he was asleep the fairies appeared to him, and played him a power of the most beauti ul tunes upon the bagpipes, and then raid the bfgpipes down by the side of him. Well, when Tom awoke he felt about in th$ grass, and soon feuiid the pipes, and when he took them up he was able to play off-hand and quite pat every one of the tunes that the fairies bad taught him. Now that's a fact, yotir hon^- our."
" Is it so, Tom V* said L

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 14

As the companion tells it

As the road runs through Kerry, you are in a county where fairy stories are not quite like the ghost tales elsewhere. In Germany, the narrator says, such things are seen only by that very indefinite personage, somebody. In Ireland it is different. A companion on the road warned not to believe the fairy stories, but said there are many men abroad to whom the strangest things have happened, plain, simple, indisputable facts. He told of Tom O'Sullivan, one of the best bagpipe players in Kerry. Until after he was thirty, Tom had never handled a bag of pipes in his life. Then one day he was wandering among the hills and lay down to sleep in a place that belonged to the good people, and there are many such places in the country. While he slept, the fairies appeared to him and played him a power of the most beautiful tunes upon the bagpipes, and then laid the bagpipes down by his side. When Tom awoke he felt about in the grass and found the pipes. He took them up and was able to play off-hand and quite pat every one of the tunes the fairies had taught him. And that, said the companion, is a fact.
Rathlin islanders' fear of horses and foxes

near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim

The Rathlin people, unfamiliar with large animals, reportedly fled in terror from a horse brought over from the mainland, and hated foxes so much that a hunting scheme was sabotaged, leading the Antrim family to levy a yearly tax for freedom from foxes.

Read the passage

The sheep of Raihlin bear a very high character on account of the excellence of the pasturage. In the north of Ireland these sheep go by the name of Rashries, an appellation also bestowed on the islanders, who, on account of their simplicity and rudeness, are oAen the subject of merriment to the canlmentaHsts, for Ireland appears, with respect to the island of Rathlin, in the light of a continent. The Irish language is spoken in this as in most of the other islands, and in those of Scotland the Gaelic has kept its pkce longer than in the rest of the country. The Dorses of the island are as remarkably small as those of the Scottish islands, and as those also of the island of Gothland in the Baltic sea. A story is even^told of the Rathlin people having nui away terrified from a good-sized horse that was brought over from Ireland, regarding it as a monster. The onl^ quadrupeds native to the island are rats and mice. Foxes were once sent over, with a view to make a new hunting-ground for the Antrim family ; but the people, who hated the foxes, found means to induce the huntsmen to disobey orders, whereupon the Antrims levied a vearlv tax, for the privilege of remaining free from foxes. The people appear to have a great dread of these animals, for I once heard a woman say to a child who was crying, " Be still, or the fox shall fetch you !'' This might sound comical enough to an African mother, who would probably threaten her child with the lion. In Germany the wolf generally plays this part, bat in Rus^a the wolf is too common, and people are obliged to have recourse to the bear. '^ The islanders, as I have said, cultivate a little barley and oats, but one of their principal sources of profit consists in gathering sea-weed, and making kelp. They gather the weed after a storm from the shore, or cut it from the rocks where it grows, and spread it oat in the son tb dry. In the evening they gather it together in heaps, which, the next day, are again spread out to dry. When the plants are sufficiently dry, they make a hole in the sjound, line it with stones, and burn the weed slowly and cautioosly to ashes. The vegetable salts fall to the bottom of the hole, and are taken out and sold in a mass, for the Rathlin people have not the skill to separate from it several foreign substances with which it is combined. This preparation of kelp provides occupation to many of^the inhabitants along the whole northern coast of Ireland, and the southwestern coasts of Scotland ; and a considerable trade is carried on in the exportation of the article to England. The greatest punishment, it is said, which is ever inflicted on a Rathlin man, is to banish him to the mainland •f Ireland, which the islanders regard entirely as a foreign country; the same thing, I remembered, had been tow me concerning the people of the Hand of Ronoe in the Gulf of Riga.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 81
Repeal Rooms in Waterford serving nationalist newspapers

Waterford · city · Waterford

An inn room in Waterford was fitted up as 'Repeal Rooms', with the inscription visible from the street, where advocates of repeal read Irish and English opposition papers; three opposition papers were published in Waterford alone.

Read the passage

I took my tea that evening at an inn where a room had been fitted up expressly for the use ^^ repealers. From the street you could read the inscription *' Repeal Rooms" on the win- '^ows. These repeal rooms are found in many
• Insh towns, and are generally attended by the advocates of repeal, busily engaged in the perusal ot the Irish and English opposition paiwrs. Most of the provincial papers of Ireland tare, of coarse,' opposition papers. In Waterford -alone three of them are published. The leadting tory paper in Ireland is the Dublin Evening

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 41
Separate Hotels for Catholics and Protestants in Cork

Cork · city · Cork

The author's hotel in Cork was kept by a protestant tory host and frequented almost wholly by protestants, while another hotel in town was patronised exclusively by catholics and whigs, reflecting sectarian division even in accommodation and transport.

Read the passage

I have ^id that the catholics are now far more powmul and influential in Ireland than they were, and the protestants less so. Yet upon the whole, the old relation of rulers and dependents still exists between them, as I had many opportunities of observing. I was often exhorted not to poll off my hat so often, because that was like the poor catholics. The hotel at which I lodged in Cork was kept by a protestant %nd tory host, and was almost wholly frequented by protestants. There wils another hotel IB the town, patronised exclusively by catholics and whigs. Many towns in Ireland have separate inns for catholics and protestants. : nay, I was even assured that there were Protestant and catholic cars and stage-coaches.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 35

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, the city had a custom the author noted in his day. He lodged at a hotel kept by a Protestant Tory host, frequented almost wholly by Protestants. There was another hotel in the town patronised exclusively by Catholics and Whigs. Many towns in Ireland had separate inns for Catholics and Protestants, and he was even assured there were Protestant and Catholic cars and stage-coaches. He was often exhorted not to pull off his hat so often, because that was "like the poor Catholics." The old relation of rulers and dependents, he wrote, still existed between the two communities.
Belfast's Late Arrival of the Printing Press

near Belfast · city · Antrim · 1696–1714

Kohl notes that no printing-press was brought to Belfast before 1696, making it later than even Russia in adopting printing. Yet Belfast went on to publish the first Bible ever printed in Ireland in 1714, and hosted the oldest Irish periodical, the Weekly Magazine.

Read the passage

Perhaps the most remarkable fact in the industrial history of Belfast, is that no printingpress was ever brought into the city before the year 1696. In barbarous Russia, therefi»re, printing was used more early than in this British city. Yet Belfast was the town in which the first Bible ever printed in Ireland was published in 1714, and where the oldest Irish periodical, the '* Weekly Magazine," was originally established . Germany, therefore, has many older periodicals than Ireland. There are now seven newspapers published at Belfast, all more or less liberal in politics, and all hostile both to the Tories and the Church, of England.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 71
Cork Barracks and Colonial Troop Rotation

Cork · city · Cork · 1840–1844

The barracks outside Cork served as a major embarkation point for troops shipped to and from the colonies, cycling through Ireland, Scotland and England over a decade. Recruiting placards covered the gates, enticing young men with bounty money for regiments and the East India Company.

Read the passage

One of my first walks in Cork led me to these t>arracks. The great gate leading to the inner court was plastered all over with placards, inviting young men to enlist in her Majesty's service. These English recruiting-bills are very curious and amusing, ai^d particularly so to us, aince on the continent, where every one serves as a soldier m his turn, nothing of the Icind is ever seen. They are drawn up just like puffing playbills. For instance, some of them are headed by a staring coloured print of a gay, dashing trooper at full gallop, and under him the words «*God save the Queen.** Then follows the announcement that twelve of her Majesty's best iiegiments, of the first respectability and gentilitr, are open to the choice of the brave sons of £rin. It is declared to be the very best time of all others for active youn^ men to enlist in the service of her most gracious Majesty. Never was the service easier or the pay better. Those who bring recruits are ,promised seven and sixpence a head, bounty money. Another bill runs thus:
" East India Company^s Force» !

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 33

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, the barracks here were once a busy embarkation point for troops shipped to and from the colonies. The great gate leading to the inner court was plastered with recruiting placards, drawn up like playbills, inviting young men to enlist in her Majesty's service. Some carried a coloured print of a trooper at full gallop and the words "God save the Queen." Twelve of her Majesty's best regiments were said to be open to the brave sons of Erin, with promises that the service was easier and the pay better than ever. Those who brought recruits were offered seven and sixpence a head in bounty money. Another bill advertised the East India Company's forces. The writer notes that on the continent, where everyone serves as a soldier in his turn, nothing of this kind is ever seen.
Description of the basalt causeway structure

near Giant's Causeway · population centre · Antrim

The Giant's Causeway itself extends about 700 feet before disappearing beneath the sea, formed of two great colonnades of basalt separated by beds of ochre, the lower fifty-four feet high and the upper sixty feet high.

Read the passage

I have already said that the basalt exhibits > itself at Benmore, in the form of a stratum of 250 feet thtok, running into enormous massive. pillars. 'At the Giant's Causeway, however, there is not one stratum, but many, and twoespecially remarkable, which run along the whde of this part of the coast, and are separa ted by a bed of ochre, which also reappears beneath the lower basalt, and is followed by clayslate, coal, and other rocks. It appeare as it, at two separate periods of time, fluid basalt had^ been poured over the whole country, and that other substances had been deposited in the in* terval. As the basalt comes to sight only oa Lhe sides of the precipitous shore, and then :jplits into long rangjBs of piUars, the word colonnade wtmld well describe its appearance. The height of the lower range, or colonnade, was stated to me to be fifty-four feet, that of theu pper sixty. The position of the pillare is mostfy perpendicular, but not invariably so, and as i.he beds of ochrerand other substances on whieb they rest vary in thickness, they sometimes sink down to the level of the sea, and sometimes rise high above it, but are finally lost to the eye, hy running beneath the surface of tbe waters — first the lower, and then the upper oolonnai'e,. near the mouth of the river Bush. Before it. reaches the edge of the water, the ochre disappeare, and the naked tops of the basaltic piUai» are exposed.
The colonntdes are oAen brskea by j

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 84
Drogheda Described as the Last Genuine Irish Town

Drogheda · town · Louth

Kohl notes that Drogheda is almost exclusively Catholic and devoted to O'Connell's repeal cause, with wretched suburbs and many Irish-speaking inhabitants, marking it as the last truly Irish town before Ulster.

Read the passage

Drogheda is the last genuine Irish town. Farther north, every thing becomes more Scotch. than Irish. In Dn)gheda the population is 6til l
* We have «< black bean,** ** Mack ink,» «*blao bat ** black bread,** QwnH baavena ! what an idea !

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 65

As the companion tells it

You are coming through Drogheda, described as the last genuine Irish town. Kohl found it almost exclusively Catholic and devoted to O'Connell's repeal cause, with wretched suburbs and many Irish-speaking inhabitants. As the book puts it, farther north every thing becomes more Scotch than Irish.
Drogheda's donation praised as model of patriotic repeal spirit

Drogheda · town · Louth · 1843

A donation of money from the town of Drogheda is received with great satisfaction, and O'Connell praises the town's genuine repealer spirit, claiming nine out of every ten inhabitants supported Repeal, becoming visibly emotional in his praise.

Read the passage

From the town of Drogheda came j6M, ^and this donation was received with great demoiK strations of satisfaction, and O'Connell called on every town in Ireland to imitate so gk>rioos wa example ; in doing so, he drew so animated and affectmg a picture of the goodness, patriotisaa, and genuine Irish spirit by which the people of Drogheda were animated, of whom nkie oat of every ten were repealers, that be almost burst into tears. Once, indeed, be really did abed tears, when, speaking of the present character of the jndicial bench, he made some allusions to a former judge, a deceased fViend, of whom he spoke in the warmest terms of eulogy and aflbetion. 0*Connell stopped short in the middle of his speech, and wept. C^est impossible, nuns js ' Vai tw.
The smaller donations were, in my eye8,4u>wever, mpre remarkable than these larger ones. There were many of a shilling, eightpenoe, sixpence, and one even of twopence, the contribetion, probably, of a beggar. Among those present many were indncä by the reading of the

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 51

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is Drogheda, in Louth. In 1843 this town sent in a donation for the Repeal cause, and it was received with great demonstrations of satisfaction. O'Connell called on every town in Ireland to imitate so glorious an example. He painted an animated and affecting picture of the goodness, patriotism, and genuine Irish spirit of the people of Drogheda, claiming that nine out of every ten of them were repealers. He almost burst into tears in the telling. And once he really did shed tears, when he spoke of the present character of the judicial bench and made allusions to a former judge, a deceased friend, of whom he spoke in the warmest terms. He stopped short in the middle of his speech and wept. The smaller donations were in some eyes more remarkable than these larger ones. There were many of a shilling, eightpence, sixpence, and one even of twopence, the contribution probably of a beggar.
Enniscorthy as centre of Irish Quakerism

Enniscorthy · townland · Wexford

Enniscorthy is noted as the metropolis of Irish Quakers, who hold a great annual assembly at a meeting-house in the town. The author observes the Quakers were relaxing their strictness of dress and principle.

Read the passage

Enniscorthy, as my companion expressed himself, is " a capital place for the wool trade." It enjoys greater celebrity, however, as the metropolis of Jrish Quakers, who hold a great Imnual assembly in a meeting-house here. I was assured here, and in many other places in Ireland, that the Quakers were relaxing very much in the strictness of their principles, as well as in the singularity of their costume. Unbecoming, however, as is their dress, particularly that of the women, it is not to be denied that many lovely faces may be seen peeping out from under their hideous bonnets. " There are some of the finest girls in the country among them," said my companion ; ^ one in particular I know, so beautiful that I can never think of her witboat laughing." Whereupon he laughed heartily again.
At Enniscorthy lies one of Strongbows's castles. Another I had seen on my way from Wexford. ITiat at Enniscorthy lies on an elevation within the town, is flanked by four turrets, and not only in perfect preservation, but even afifords a very comfortable residence to an ecclesiastic of the established church. These dwellings of a remote antiquity are not often found in English towns, but in thp country frequently. With this ecclesiastic, a polished and well-informed man, and an excellent specimen of a Tory gentleman, I spent a most agreeable and instructive evening, seated at an oiken ta«

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 45
Extreme land subdivision recorded in County Tipperary

Tipperary · town · Tipperary

Kohl cites statistics showing the extent of farm subdivision in Tipperary, where thousands of holdings were smaller than five acres. This exemplifies the poverty-inducing system of dividing farms among sons across generations.

Read the passage

The vast extent of most <^ the estates in Ireland offers a melancholy contrast to the minuteness of some of the farms, or rather potato •grounds. Had the division of propertr existed in the upper elasses also, the small laadlords wotitd gradually h^ve approached nearer to the -snaall farmers, and the subdivision of estates would have aeted as a cheek on the subdivision ^f farms. As it is, however, there is no country in Europe where the actual cultivators of the •«Oil have so little property in the land they cnltit^te as in Ireland. In Russia there are large estates, but the holdings of the peasants are taige too.' In Ireland there are single estates more ext^n^ive than German principalities, with farms fif such an expression can be applied^ not laiger than the bit or ground which an English gentleman -would set aside for his rabbits in a comer of his park. In the county of Tipperaiy, out of ^8400 holdings, there arc 2R0 of less than an acre, tmd'i(]66 of more than one, bm less than five acres.
Another pemiciotts custom in IreHmd, is ivhat in called lettihg the land in partnership, often to iHiole villages, when each member of the partnership becomes personally responsible for the -entire rent. This is, unfortunately, still so much the case in Ireland, according to the report of Mr. Nichols, the Poor Law Commissioner, that the common pasture grounds are constantly seen crowded witn cattle, and the people are for ever disputing with each other as to who has Ihe right to drive the greatest number of miserable-looking beasts upon the common. ' If the land thus held in partnership is arable instead of pasture, they divide it into a number of small .parcels, but thfs partition often leads to Utigation, -imti constantly to disputes, each being apprehen- -siveiest his neighbohr should have the advantage ^ ä'few inches over him.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 5
Lord Glengall's Resident Landlordism at Cahir

Caher · town · Tipperary

Lord Glengall resided at his castle close to Cahir in fulfilment of a promise to his tenantry, and the author notes that resident landlords like him ensured well-treated tenants and prosperous cultivation, unlike absentee landlords whose estates suffered cruel evictions for non-payment of rent.

Read the passage

Lord Glengall is the man upon whom, under Heaven, the turf and the potatoes, the happiness and prosperity of the entire district round Cahir depend. He has a beaotiful castle dose to the town, and, at present, resides there, in fulfilment of an old promise to his tenantry. On eveiry estate the 'great question is that o^ residence and non^residence. Where the landlord resides upon his own estates the tenants« are well treated, the land well cultivated^ and: the whole country prosperous and happy. Whe»; he does not reside, the peasants havd !}o T9dress from the tyranny of his subordinates ; ejcecutions for non-payment of rent are frequent and cruel, and the money of the district is sent . out of the country, without returning in any shape to those who lose it.
We had now entered the notorious county of Tipperary, in which more murders and assaults are committed in one year than in the whole kingdom of Saxony in five. As the Italians have their stilettoes, so the Irish, and particularly the Tipperarymen, have their formidable sluielaghs, a kind of hard, thick, heavy elub.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 36

As the companion tells it

Up ahead is the town of Cahir in Tipperary. Lord Glengall kept an old promise to his tenantry by living in his castle close to the town, and the author says the happiness and prosperity of the entire district round Cahir depended on him under Heaven. The great question on every estate was whether the landlord resided there or not. Where he did, the tenants were well treated, the land well cultivated, and the whole country prosperous and happy. Where he did not, the peasants had no redress from the tyranny of his subordinates. Executions for non-payment of rent were frequent and cruel, and the money of the district was sent out of the country without returning in any shape to those who lost it. The author also notes that Tipperary was notorious, with more murders and assaults committed in one year than in the whole kingdom of Saxony in five. The Tipperarymen carried a formidable shillelagh, a hard, thick, heavy club, much as the Italians had their stilettoes.
Mac Oghlan's ruined castles near Shannon Harbour

Shannon Harbour · electoral division · Offaly

The author examines ruined castles near Shannon Harbour said to have belonged to the Irish chief Mac Oghlan, who once possessed six castles in the neighbourhood. One castle, covered in ivy, had been made into a comfortable dwelling by its owner despite its ruinous state.

Read the passage

•ible to take a very lively interest in thiftde8cri|>- tioD ol* mercfaandiiie, I tu rued fi-om the present to the past, and examined some ruined castles, whicn were said to have once belonged to an Irish hero of the name of Mac Ogfalan, who possessed no less than six castles in ihe neigbboorhood. One of these castles 1 had observed as we came along. It had all the appearance of an old feadal castle, was quite as ratnous as its age warranted, and was almost covered with ivy; nevertheless, the owner seemed to have made himself a very comfortable dwelling among the ancient halls and the toppling ruins. 1 have met many similar instances in Ireland of ruined castles, in which the owners contrived stiH to live very much at their ease. Another of the mins lay about a mile and half from the place, and a young man accompanied me thither as guide. When we arrived it was getting dusk, and on my preparing to jump over a diicb, that I might go close up to the castle, which lay in the middle of a large potato-6e1d, my youth hung back, and told me he would wait in the road till I came back. I soon saw he was afraid of the "good people," of whom the Irish are certainly far more in dread than they are of the devil. I was curious to see how far my companion's fear wem, and threatened to withhold the promised shilling unless he went wtfh me. ** Oh, I donH care about that I" he murmured to himself, and remained obstinately behind. I had to explore the ruin bv myself, but it contained nothing very remarkable — nothing but a few loopholes, and a few vaults that had fallen in.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 13
Oat-cake Making Observed Near Drogheda

Monasterboice · townland · Louth

Sheltering from hail near the ruins, Kohl observes the preparation of oat-cakes in a poor cabin, a staple food of the Irish and Scotch poor, and reflects on the poverty of a diet based largely on potatoes.

Read the passage

I returned on foot to the little cabin upon the barren hillock where we had lelt our ca'rs, and as a hard shower of > hail was falling over the dark plain and among the old ruins, I was compelled, for the sake of shelter, to take a closer inspection of the interior of this cabin. This gave me an opportunity of watching the preparation of those oat-cakes which play so important a part in the natioharcookery both of Ireland and Scotland, and which are even found carved upon their monuments, as I have above described, These far-famed cakes are made of oats very roughly ground. The coarse flour is mixed with water, into a thick gritty paste, and spread upon a warmed iron plate. This round iron plate, which is found in the poorest Irish, cabins, is warmed by a handful of lighted straw placed underneath it, and in a few moments the cooking process is over, the paste being taken off in the shape of a hard, thin, dry biscuit. This paste is dignified by the name of cake, and is eaten daily by the poor Scotch and Irish. These cakes are not much more palatable than a mixture of flour and water, made dry and hard, would be, yet many people are passionately fond of them. The Irish generally assure the stran* ger, when they show him their oat-cakes, that these are a particularly wholesome, nourishing, and strengthening kind of food, which can be true only when they are compared with the watery, tasteless, and meager poiatoes upon which the Irish have to subsist. The English, generally very curious about our black bread, and to whom the word '' black" seems to convey & kind of horror,* often repeat that with tliem people would never think of giving such a mess to any but horses; forjgettjng that with us nobody would think of giving oats to any but horses, and forgetting how many millions of hungry poor there are in their empire who would be most thankful for this despised black bread, and whom it would certainly nourish much better than oatpaste which they call cake, and the nourishing qualities of which th^ praise so highly.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 65
Paddy's cabin construction described near Kilrush

Kilrush · town · Clare

The author describes in detail the extreme poverty of cabins in this district: built of stacked earth, roofed only with sods of grass, and often lacking any window, with a single hole serving as door, window and chimney.

Read the passage

A wooden house, with mossito stop up its crevice^ would he a palace in the wild regions of Ireland. < Paddy's cabin. is built of earth ; one shovelful over the other, with a few stones minsAed here and there, till the wall is high enough. But perhaj)s you.will say, the roof is thatchedor covered with barki Ay, indeed! A few sods of grass cut from a neighbouring bog are his only thatch. Well, but a window or two at least, if it be only a pane of glass fixed in ;the wall 1 or the bladoec of some auimal, or a piece of talc, as may oAen be seen in a Walacbian hut 1 What idle luxury were this! There are thousands of cabins in wbich. uot a trace of a window is to be . seeu^ nothing but a little .square hole in front, which doubles the duty of dooK, > window, and chimney ; light, smoke, pig^ and children, all must pasj^ in and putroi the same aperture I
A French author, Beaumont, who had seen the. Irish peasant in his cabiUj. and the North American Indiaain his wigwam; has assured us that the. savage is better prov;ided ibr than the Doorman in. Ireland. . Inde^ the question may oe. raised, whether in the whole world a nation is to be found that is subjected to such physical privations, as the peasantry iasome parts of ireland^ This iact cannot b^ placed in loo strong a light, for if it can pnce be shown that the wretchedness of the Irish peculation is without a parallel example on tbe g^obe, surely every friend of humanity will feel himself called on to reflect whetlier means may.not be found for rem^ edyfiuz an evil of sq astounding a magnitude I

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17

As the companion tells it

Coming up near Kilrush, in Clare. The book describes what it calls Paddy's cabin, and the way it was built in this district. A wooden house, it says, with moss to stop up its crevice, would be a palace in the wild regions of Ireland. Paddy's cabin is built of earth, one shovelful over the other, with a few stones mixed here and there, till the wall is high enough. You might think the roof is thatched or covered with bark. It is not. A few sods of grass cut from a neighbouring bog are the only thatch. And a window, at least a pane of glass fixed in the wall, or the bladder of some animal, or a piece of talc, as may often be seen in a Wallachian hut. The book calls that idle luxury. There are thousands of cabins in which not a trace of a window is to be seen, nothing but a little square hole in front, which doubles as door, window, and chimney. Light, smoke, pig and children, all must pass in and out through the same aperture. A French author, Beaumont, who had seen the Irish peasant in his cabin and the North American Indian in his wigwam, assured the reader that the savage is better provided for than the poor man in Ireland. The question may be raised whether in the whole world a nation is to be found that is subjected to such physical privations as the peasantry in some parts of Ireland. This fact, the book says, cannot be placed in too strong a light, for if it can once be shown that the wretchedness of the Irish population is without a parallel example on the globe, every friend of humanity will feel himself called on to reflect whether means may not be found for remedying an evil of so astounding a magnitude.
Poverty and house repair near Tarbert

Tarbert · town · Kerry

Along the road from Tarbert, Kohl observes a fallen house being repaired by a poor family who, unable to rebuild it fully, simply reduced its size, cutting away the broken portion and building a smaller new wall in its place, forcing the family and animals into half their previous space.

Read the passage

Though our view was confined to one side of the road, I saw enough to amuse and instroet me. In one village we saw the national process of house-building. A house of some length had fallen in, probably without any volcanic ageneyj but simply by the effect of its own weight, and the proprietor was repairing the injury sustained by his mansion ; but being either too poor or too indolent to re-establish the tenement in its former extent, he bad contented himself with cutting away as much of tbe broken wall as was neces* sary to make it smooth, and was running up a new wall at the place where the old one remained. In this way, he was abandoning one half of his old house, and was about to reduce his family, his pigs, his dogs, and his poultry, to one half of their previous accommodation. The manner of building the wall, too, was characteristic. Tbe father broi:^ht the mould to the spot in a wheelbarrow, the eldest son with a shovel fashioned the material into the shape pf a waU, and a younger boy stood upon the top to stamp it into something like consistency. A pair of swallows would have expended niore care and skill upon the construction of their nest.
All tbe people I met with spoke English, though Kerry is .considered to be one of the counties where tbe Irish language has been best preserved. Only in very out-of-the-way places, they told me, would I find people that understood no English. Of this I bad seen instances in Clare, where ehildien would run by the side of the car, crying " Burnocks, halfpetny !" " Burnocks" being an appellation applied to every strainger, and "halfpenny" the only En^lfsh word that the little rogues seemed to know. "Our English," said one Kerry farmer to me, " is a sort of home-English. We don't learn it correctly. But we have high-bred men among us, even among the farmers, and some of the shepheitis among the mountains know as mack Latin as so many priests.''

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 19

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Tarbert in Kerry, the road gives a glimpse of how the poor here cope when a house gives way. Kohl, travelling this road, saw a house that had fallen in, not from any earthquake but simply under its own weight. The owner set about repairing it, but he was too poor to rebuild the whole thing. Instead he cut away the broken part of the wall to make a clean edge, and ran up a new wall where the old one still stood. By this method he abandoned half his house, reducing his family, his pigs, his dogs, and his poultry to half their former room. The way they built the new wall was something to see. The father brought the mould to the spot in a wheelbarrow. The eldest son shaped the material into the form of a wall with a shovel. A younger boy stood on top stamping it into something like consistency. Kohl remarked that a pair of swallows would have expended more care and skill on their nest. He noted that all the people he met here spoke English, even though Kerry is counted among the counties where Irish has been best preserved. They told him only in very out-of-the-way places would he find people who understood no English. One Kerry farmer said to him, "Our English is a sort of home-English. We don't learn it correctly. But we have high-bred men among us, even among the farmers, and some of the shepherds among the mountains know as much Latin as so many priests."
Saturday Night Pawnbroking in Limerick

Limerick · city · Limerick

On a Saturday evening in Limerick, pawnbrokers' shops were crowded with poor people redeeming Sunday clothes with their weekly wages, only to pawn them again on Monday, illustrating a cycle of poverty.

Read the passage

It was arm-in-arm with a descendant from a fOyal race, a Mr. 0*Rourke, that I sallied forth to see the town. An O'Rourke wias am<^g ^e princes that assisted the English in the first conquest of Ireland, but turning afterwards against the invaders, he was killed by them. The family subsequently. fell into decay, and there are Jaw but few left to bear the name. It was on a ßaturday evening, and the pawnbrokers' shops Were full of bustle. The poor people were redeeming their Sunday clothes, that they might look gay on the morrow. They had just received their weekly wages, of which a part was- going to the pawnbroker, and the rest would probably be expended before Sunday evenipfi^ On Mondav their bit of finery would have to wander back to the money-lender, and the remainder bf the week would be spent in rags and privation. Thousands of the poor Irish live thus,
nd aa' expeoaif» way tf Mviog it AOst be,4iitr tag that M> many paWttbiokem aad pawobroken assistants are maintaiiied almost excltiauFely om of the enrniBgs of the poor. w

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 16

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Limerick, there is an old Saturday evening scene worth hearing about. The pawnbrokers' shops here were once full of bustle as the poor people came to redeem their Sunday clothes, so they might look gay on the morrow. They had just received their weekly wages, part going to the pawnbroker and the rest likely spent before Sunday evening. On Monday their bit of finery would wander back to the money-lender, and the remainder of the week would be spent in rags and privation. Thousands of the poor Irish lived thus, and it must be admitted that so many pawnbrokers and pawnbrokers' assistants were maintained almost exclusively out of the earnings of the poor. The writer who recorded this was walking through the town with a Mr O'Rourke, a descendant of a royal race. An O'Rourke was among the princes that assisted the English in the first conquest of Ireland, but turning afterwards against the invaders, he was killed by them. The family subsequently fell into decay, and there are now but few left to bear the name.
Temperance men and Father Mathew's visit at halfway house

Wexford · town · Wexford

At a halfway house between New Ross and Wexford, the author encountered temperance men wearing medals who had formerly been habitual drunkards but now felt happier sober; they carried bills announcing an impending visit by Father Mathew to Wexford.

Read the passage

Father Mathew formed the subject. >ef their conversation, and in their hands they had laiga printed bills announcing an impending 'tisit of the apostle's to Wexford. Perhaps my Gefoma readers may not be displeased to ase.aiiteral translation of one of -these bdls. Hsieit is. At the top, in letters of eaormous site, waa printed: ««FA«ifaLMATa(Swii^Wwtso«»l'*iPi
rRE^LA^D.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 42

As the companion tells it

As the road brings you through Wexford, this was a stop on Father Mathew's temperance trail. At a halfway house between New Ross and here, men wearing medals spoke of his impending visit. They carried printed bills announcing the apostle's mission to town. These were former habitual drunkards who now felt happier sober.
The Dark Valley and the Gap of Dunloe

near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

A river rushes through the Gap of Dunloe, forming small black-staining lakes in a valley the Irish have named the 'Dark valley'. The author describes the striking blackened rock appearance during a dry season.

Read the passage

A little river rushes through the Gap of Dunloe over the rocks, and in the middle of the valley several small lakes, of a most remarkable appearance, are formed : namely, the water has the peculiar property of staining all the ground it flows over of a deep black colour, so that now, in the beginning of October, when the waters after an unusually dry season were very low, die black rocky hollow, on the edge of which we were riding, had exactly the appearance of a gigantic inkstand half empty. Had there been at the bottom, among the rugged masses of black rock, some smoke and flame instead of water, we might have imagined we were looking into the dark entrance to the infernal regions. The Irish have named all this part of the pass, with good reason, the " Dark valley."
In Tßany of the rocky clefts we noticed heaps of turf made up ready for the winter, and they ^ are often repositories lor the illicit stills used for making the whiskey, known by the name of "mountain dew," for which Kerry is renowned throughout Ireland. The name would have been better suited to the fine rich goats* milk that we sot in a little hut in the neighbourhood of the fiikes, at the foot of the rocky ridge that crosses «the middle of the pass. The snow lies on these mountains^ till the end of April, and sometimes even as late as the middle of May, but neither the great lakes of Killamey, nor the spnall lakes ip the Gap of Dunloe, ever freeze.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 23
The Golden Bog of Tipperary

Tipperary · town · Tipperary

In a bog in County Tipperary, so many golden articles were found at different times that it came to be called the golden bog. Tradition holds that a goldsmith's workshop was once suddenly overwhelmed there by the marsh.

Read the passage

,qnlj b^ye been worn ^l very remote ages of Suropean barbarism. Of g<»lden ornaments, rings, rows of beads« and some curious little instruments, the use and purport of which it is ^ot easy to determine, considerable quantities liave been found. The golden beads, made of a thin plate of metal, are astonishingly large. If these are of Irish workmanship, and of a period prior to the introduction of Christianity, as is generally supposed, on account of the absence of all religious emblems and decorations, it follows that the old pagan Irish were very nearly as good gtddsmiths as those of the Greek colpnists, and of the Bosphorian kings of Tauria on the Black Sea, of whose relics many have of late years been found and deposited in themuseums of St. Petersburg. According to the poet Moore, gold-mines are believed to have been discovered by Tighernmas, an ancient king of Ireland, who reigned SOO years before the Christian era. In one bog in the county of Tipperary, so many golden articles have been found at different times, that it bears the name of .the golden bog ; and tradition says, that in that place the workshop of a goldsmitfi was one day overwhelmed by the sudden irruption of the marshy bog.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 55
The grave of Dallas at Cushendall, slain by Ossian

Cushendall · townland · Antrim

At Cushendall, Kohl was shown the grave of Dallas, a Scotch hero said to have been slain by Ossian, with locals insisting Antrim was the true theatre of Ossian's exploits.

Read the passage

At GasheodaU, there was pointed out to me the srare of Dallas, a Scotch hero slain by the hana of Ossian^ uf whose exploits, I was assured, Antrioi was the true and nu>st distinguished theatre.
Ossian is, according to traditjon, the descendant ol* the giant Fiogal, who constructed the Gi> ant's Causeway. This Fingal, or, as the Irish historians call hfim, Finn Mjac Cumhal, which the lower Irish shorten into Finn Mac Cum. lived in the third ceniary after Christ, and filled the- whole north of Ireland and the west of Scotland with, the lenown of his natne. Some wri< lers connect him with the Phcenicians, who are said to have colonised the country ; and be takes, in Irish tradUioo, eiactly the place filled by Her> 'Cules in that vi' the Greeks. All sorts of nat ural jnarrela are ascribed fio him,, and Fingal tnay^ in iact, be regarded as the Hercules of £rin, Gale- ^oniaj and the islands lying between them.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 79
Tipperary's quarrelsome reputation and the temperance movement's effect

Tipperary · town · Tipperary

A travelling companion explains that Tipperary people have a certain fierce tendency toward rebellion due to their unfortunate relation to landlords, but says quarrels and riots have become much less frequent since the temperance movement began, marking a new era in Irish history.

Read the passage

" Sinee temperance," aa the pc<^e say, ihesB^* qtttrrelsomemea of Tipperary have mach imi proved, and ahhoogh their attfoTtmiateipoaitkm> must always give them ascertain tendaaey tavB* hellion, yet even riola and insunreoftioBa -.araii much km freqnent among them than thay^wonj' . " Since«teiiiperance*' so muBy changes bav« j»t ken place in Instand, that it onghtte ankeqailB., a BOW era in Irish history,
Clonmel is the. largest laws in the cettnty oi Tipperary. It eontama 1((/QM inhabitaBtsvaad ita thrivinf aspect, and the aaioiated bnstleoCita . streets, bear teatuBony to its imperlaBC8.andvi prosperity^ AsweidismooBtedibefore thninoBl. donmiel amonber of oMbeggavwomen sur« rounded our car aa usnah . I gave oneof thanis: a penny. She spat upea it, and aft< first I Jma^ gtned ahe did 'soi to ahttwherxxmteBiptv beoaase I had given her so small a com: AfterwardSy however, I found that it is a regular custoia.o(^ the beggar»' in Iiehind (and also in some parts of En^^ndX toapit upon the money given them^ *• for good locfc^?' as -they say.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 37
Division between Kenramer and Ushet districts of Rathlin

near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim

Rathlin's inhabitants were divided into two distinct races: the rocky, harbourless western Kenramer district whose men climbed cliffs for sea-fowl eggs and preserved the Irish language, and the level, accessible Ushet district whose men were fishermen and traders who spoke English.

Read the passage

inhabitvMs are divided into two ^te distinclr races. The western, or longer end, called Kenramer, is rocky and mounuinous, but the little* hollows and valleys there are fertile and weU cultivated } it is, however, entirely destitute of harbours, whilst the tract called Ushet is level r>nd barren, but very accessible, and offers abunr dant shelter fur shipping. The Ushet men are therefore the fishermen, sailors, and merchants of the inland, and carry on a>llvely trade with the> neighbouring little Scotch and Irish marketr towns. They generally speak English, and have lost many of their insular peculiarities. The Ken ramer men, on the other band, live apart and independently on their wing of the island, cultivate their fields, and climb their rocks in search of the eggs of the sea-fowl. This forms one of their chief occupations ; «and as many of the rocks rise perpendicularly out of the sea to a height of 750 feet, the manner of reaching the nest is by means of a rope let down from the edge of theprecipice. They often go out quite alone for this purpose, and fastening their rope to some pro- " jectmg point, draw themselves up and down aS' the occasion may require. As they have little intercourse with strangers, they have, of course, preserved their Irish language, and their primitive manners, more pure than the men of Usbet^ The difierence between these two races is so* striking, and they are themselves so well aware of it, that in difficult works, in which the roefe> climbing Kenramers and the maritisie Ushet men must the employed together, they oAen point out the posts to which it will be necessary to a{^- point East and West Islanders.
As the Isle of Man was formerly an apple of* discord between England and Scotland, so has Rathlin been between Scotland and Ireland. Many of the quarrels of Scotch and Irish chieftains have been fought out on this spot; and many of the tombs discovered on a little plain in the centre of the island, and the numerous bronze swords and lance-heads dug up there, prove it to have^been the scene of more than one sanguinanr struggle. The cruelties perpetrated here by th*e clan of the Campbells jn one of these forays, remained so long in the memoir of the Rathlin' people, that so late as the end of the last century no one bearing this name was allowed to land on the island, and indeed the law to that effect^ has never been repealed.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 81
Association of Harpers funded by Irish exiles in East Indies

near Belfast · city · Antrim

The Association of Harpers, the oldest musical association in Ireland, was founded and supported by Irish patriots living in the East Indies, who sent money for the education of blind boys at Belfast and for concerts on the national instrument.

Read the passage

The Association of Harpers is the oldest mu^ sical association in Ireland. It was founded and supported, curiously enough, by «one Irish; patriots residing in the East Indies, whoso patriotic feelings were perhaps still more moved> by the wild -Süd beantiful melodies of their «alive land, when th^ sang them aiw «elves, en a strange eoil and vmmg a < people, and who sent over money wr tlie:i cai edueatioB «f some blind hoys at Belfiut, aadfor the giving of ooacetts on the natioaal riMammeut of ilrelaad. Perhaps some patriotic Ircshnsea, exiled to Ohina and the East Indiee, willr some day, msndfal of nhe wonders of their mauve shore, send oYsr money for the eetaMieh' ment of a geological innsemii iHustrative of the Giant*« Caueeway, and every thing eomiected wKh it.
I have already atsded to the harper^* -society ^t Drogheda. In the former century no snch societies existed in Ireland, and the nnmbers ; which havebeenestahiished of late years, might lead to the supposition that the old iiational art of the bards was reafly Tcviving a^n in the island. Yet this supposition mig[lit be very erroneous, for such sudden and artificial revivals of obsolete customs and amusements are seldom lasting, and are oflen rather the momentary flickerlngs of the flame before its utter ^ttinction, than the real indications of returamghealth.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 75
Ballycastle as the boundary of the Irish language

near Ballycastle · town · Antrim

At Ballycastle, the mountainous district of the Glens terminates and the country becomes downs; a little river running eastward from the town was pointed out as the exact limit of the Irish language, with no Irish spoken beyond the bridge.

Read the passage

At nine o'clock in the evening we arrived on, the wings of a dry storm, for the rain bad entirely ceased, at the little town of Ballycastle, on the hca^shore, opposite the island of Kathlin. Here, the nckoontaiaous district of the Glens, terminal^ and the country assumes the form of wide downs sloping with a more or less steep declivitv to th«^ sea ; this is also the boundary of the Irish laagnage^ and a little river, ninning eastward 0om Ballycastle, was pointed out to me as its exact limit. ^
Beyond the bridge it was said no one even n^ derstood Irish. For th^ last few miles towards Ballycastle, a polieeman took his seat on the car beside me, and I inquired if he had much to do in the G4ens. " Oh yes," he answered, *^ we have a great deal more to do here than our comrades down in Derrv (LondK^derry), and the people would be much wocse if they wasn't so much in fear of the law. They're poorer too here than in Derry ; but, as you have travelled so much, you must lOK^w (hat Catholics are alway poorer thaa: Protestants." I give the man's own wordsi because there is some truth ia his remark^ though I cannot exactly determine how much.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 79
Basalt column collapse at Fair Head

near Benmore or Fair Head · promontory · Antrim

The basalt columns of Fair Head, resting on a fragile bed of clay-slate four hundred feet above the sea, periodically break away and crash down with a noise like thunder, shattering into thousands of fragments amid the raging breakers below.

Read the passage

From the summit of tbe Head we descended through a deep clefl, called the. Gray Man'» Path, to the shore. It resembles a rudelycot gigantic staircase, and so violent a wind roshea up the gully, that, at the very first step, it seized my hat, mantle, books, and maps, and sent them whirling into tbe air. With a great deal of labour and difl!culty. I contrived to regain possession of my eflfects, and stowed them away snugly in a hole behind a great basaltic column. One of these had fallen right across the entrance to the Gray Man's Path, and looked as if it were likely to fall stlU farther. Tbe top of the clefl is not more than eight or ten feet wide, but it opens oitt farther down ; and as the col« Umns are broken oflTatdifiereol beightSySadaEa fiat at the U>p, it is possible to step froiiji ona. to another in descending. Tbey are not usual» ly of one piece, but formed of several b)oek% twelve or fourteen feet high, placed ose abova the other, which breidc asunder when the ool«- umns fall. Tbe height of the columns is osuallyr about 25& feet, and their entire weight resta upon a bed of clay<slate, beneath which again Ite^ a bed of eoah although it wouM seem that the heavy basalt, which is as hard as iron, ought properly to lie beneath, and the comparatively brittle coal and slate to occupy the upper place. It is, in fact, the fragile nature of this substratum that occasions many of tbe falls of tbe columns I have mentioned, as they often lose their fowndatiobs from the brittle and destructible nature of the clay-slate ; but these falls are also caused by the water penetrating the fissures of the rtjcks, where, by freezing in the winter, it continually widens them, when this sort of action has continued for centuries, and the bed of clayslate has become sod and bpoken, the colunms lose their balance, and in some winter nig^W whsu all th9 elements are in uproar, bresdc awsjn
IRSLAND.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog
Beggar women's custom of spitting on alms for luck at Clonmel

Clonmel · town · Tipperary

At Clonmel, old beggar women surrounded the narrator's car and one spat upon a coin she was given; the narrator learns this is a regular custom among Irish (and some English) beggars, done 'for good luck.'

Read the passage

Clonmel is the. largest laws in the cettnty oi Tipperary. It eontama 1((/QM inhabitaBtsvaad ita thrivinf aspect, and the aaioiated bnstleoCita . streets, bear teatuBony to its imperlaBC8.andvi prosperity^ AsweidismooBtedibefore thninoBl. donmiel amonber of oMbeggavwomen sur« rounded our car aa usnah . I gave oneof thanis: a penny. She spat upea it, and aft< first I Jma^ gtned ahe did 'soi to ahttwherxxmteBiptv beoaase I had given her so small a com: AfterwardSy however, I found that it is a regular custoia.o(^ the beggar»' in Iiehind (and also in some parts of En^^ndX toapit upon the money given them^ *• for good locfc^?' as -they say.
The begganwomen were many of - them >too ohl and infian :t« foHonr >iis ; but a oR)Wd'iol>llttk^iflaoara haired chifalneti ran after the «ar » long I way, wfaea it had dfiaen oflT^ ThO'Wisvd« "ba^peaoy?' seema ta»have hecBBie so natwal' ^o their tongues, that it drops out spontaneoWKly^h» moraent-^they topes their lips^ They do not .GBret (What -, you. tmy • ta . them^ bJ! keep ' op one. incessnIi.cryT of '^halpbnny 1' ha'penhy.!»'^ • until aipiece of eoipperis^tlnrown toward« tAiesB, when tbs whole troop ftll t<^ gnibbing> in the * din, and acrambling fep it. On^ the wiNrie way • frwnj Limoriok) to Oork^ aiid ihoB» Coi4c to KiU keany;, a distanooiof somo hundred miles in lengthy opr ofor aras naveri a muMoeHi ftee fhMi' ^watraa« of ^ noiay little^ beggarsi and (as sooO aa * OBOitiroop gam ap iihe pur«ttl«f in deäpair, another; «ragged :litlile>tlia!OBg( came ehoutingaadg^^ kxpiB^iorer the oaoor.^ tosupptT itb place; fhe 3ianooBi-oara are vbit» ihvoamble «o besgars; beaaas»l!httttBrvelieKa«$t; perpetttaHyfaci^ thi» poBr< .sappliofNits, and daset to thou. F spoke of flaxea-haiced chik^r^Pfbiyt ,m fofpp^ intern districts the' li-rsh ate all hiack-haired. TJjp moat remarkable thing^ about it is, thfit whereas in other oouotriea blue eyesr are älvi^ fband with light bair, and dark eyes with dark hair, . the Irish are without reception bitte eyed, ana eyea of the cl^areBt azure tint gleam contitiu- ^ beneath hairiilack as tl^ raven*^ wing

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 37

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Clonmel, the largest town in Tipperary, it is worth knowing what a traveller once found here. He had barely dismounted when a number of old beggar women surrounded his car, as they usually did. He gave one of them a penny. She spat upon it, and at first he imagined she did so to show her contempt because he had given her so small a coin. Afterwards, however, he found that it is a regular custom of the beggars in Ireland, and also in some parts of England, to spit upon the money given them, as they say, for good luck. The beggar women were many of them too old and infirm to follow, but a crowd of flaxen-haired children ran after the car a long way when it had driven off. The word ha'penny seems to have become so natural to their tongues that it drops out spontaneously the moment they open their lips. They do not care what you buy them but keep up one incessant cry of ha'penny, ha'penny, until a piece of copper is thrown toward them, when the whole troop fall to grubbing in the dirt and scrambling for it. The whole way from Limerick to Cork and from Cork to Killarney, a distance of some hundred miles, he was never a moment free from noisy little beggars. As soon as one troop gave up the pursuit in despair, another ragged little band came shouting and screaming after the car to supply its place. In other districts the Irish are all black-haired, and eyes of the clearest azure gleam beneath hair black as the raven's wing.
French Convent School for Young Ladies near Cove

Cobh · municipal district · Cork

A convent overlooking the bay near Cove housed an educational establishment where forty daughters of the Irish aristocracy were taught by French nuns, following a French system of education, reflecting a broader French sympathy for Ireland.

Read the passage

On my way, to Cove I had noticed on th^ shoro of tbe bky a large biai^dipg, which I was infoimed;Waf a cop vent, containing an educational establishment for young ladles, liie neit mprning,, provide,d with letters of introductipn by the kjndness Pf some lady patronesses at Cork, I drove over to the convent. Forty, young^ daughters of the aristocracy are here instructed " i« the usual branphes of a p(>lite educatioi^". afid at; the a^rQe time partake of a conventual coursp of life. Tlie, teachers are French nun^a^id the abbess, a lady of great re», finen^nt and int^lligencd, had th^ goodness tp show mp over i^oy par^.of the institution^ and to giye me ^h infori^atiÖn as 1 required^ I shiOul|iiia^4)y ^^6 ^^W^^ to fine),. ip aeou^- try.iy^ Iralandr wiiose once fampi^s and i^öurisi^ing ecbpOite an^ everywhere . falling, into doc|^ suchoYtensive, prosperous, and^ weU-orgip<; i3^4 ed^caiiohalij)[sututionsas thi^ M^ny Ijrisb families spnd their daugj^erst oyer, to Franc^^. tq.b^.e4!Ji:'^L^-jil ii^ ä-ts«.-: ctttsvoiits of that country* . Ej9!eain this fri&h convc^nl ihe svatem of educo^ tipn w^ hüLt^ Freocli, and the laJies, both leach- ' ers and pupilä^ gpol^e mosUj/^ in French, ^nd betrayed ;a ^iruiTg paritatity for ever>tt>ing conneptedwUh Fraoce. The French, also, haye' ali^^yfr a great parttalitj for Irelund and the, Irif^npt only on arr4>unt of I heir caLhoUci^ni, butOfi^cMintof thf!ir C^Inu origin, ajtd ufihe! oppression tfiey have suffered froni the Cerman- > ic ra^isa. No French Uimk about Jreland ever hppe9rs>whioU dues not ex:3U O'ConndL above > tbockuiflä, and whicht while it teemti with the' most;exa^gej'ate4 praise of the Iribh natiüual chajsaetaTr dues nui bull ovar with hatred of ^ngi^d and " English tyranoy.^' Fran<^e ^i- \yayakeep3 hex eye upon Ireland^ tioqu^itiog and intriguing with her, and fomenting iha wo^jkI which renders her such a thorn iu ihe^ide'af England, yet they hs^ve qeyer prxiduced tnuch« ejGTectupon tbe island. . Sueb intrigues i^nd spec? ulations may gQ «a for oeotunea without, cod^t ing.^oanytlMBgi,
50

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 33
Pew Monopoly Reform at Edgeworthtown Church

Edgeworthstown · town · Longford

The vicar of Edgeworthtown struggled against the pew system that excluded the poor from church, eventually providing accommodation at his own expense despite difficulty obtaining a vestry act.

Read the passage

ease in the Protestant churches of England. The pews are a source of revenae to the chaich, and this has caused ibem 4o encroach so mäch upon ifhe :»pace intended for the congregation, that no foom at all remains in the end for the poor. Well-meaning clergymen have ofteti- struggled «gainst this abuse of the pews ; ^d some, like the worthy pastor of Edgewprthtown, when they could not bring the paHsh to provide accommodation for the poor, have done so at their own expense. The vicar in question, it is said, had ihe greatest difficulty In obtaining a vestry act to enable him |o carry his benevolent views into «operation. Of late the Puseyites have commen- •ced a spirited opposition against the monopolising sy6tem of pews, and in this, at least, it is to be hoped, they will succeed.
There are 800 Catholics in Edgeworthtown, and 300 Protestants, but the latter do not increase in number it^ an equtol ratio with the former. The Catholics have become wealthier and more powerful since their emancipation, as well as more numerous, and this remark wiU apply to liearly all Ireland. I was also told that the Cath- <rfic8 endeavour at present to induce young men of better femilies than was formerly the case, to devote (hemselves to the church.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 9

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Edgeworthstown in Longford, there is a story from this town about its church and a vicar who took on the pew system. In the churches of the time, pews were a source of revenue, and they had encroached so far on the space meant for the congregation that no room remained for the poor. The vicar of Edgeworthtown struggled against this abuse. When he could not get the parish to provide accommodation for the poor, he did so at his own expense. He had, it is said, the greatest difficulty obtaining a vestry act to enable him to carry out his plans. The Puseyites had lately begun their own spirited opposition against the monopolising system of pews, and in this at least, the writer hoped they would succeed. There were 800 Catholics and 300 Protestants in Edgeworthstown, though the Protestants were not increasing at the same rate. Since their emancipation, the Catholics had grown wealthier, more powerful, and more numerous, a remark that applied to nearly all of Ireland.
Scattery Island round tower and Seven Churches near Kilrush

Scattery Island · townland · Clare

In the vicinity of Kilrush the author notes the island of Scattery, site of one of the finest Irish round towers and the ruins known as the 'Seven Churches.'

Read the passage

The county westward of Ennis and Eden vale is the dark side of the county of Claoe, the wildest, .poorest, and most barren part of it, I had, nevertheless, two inducements for visiting these wild XBgions. First, 1 bad heard that the celebrated Father Mathew was on bis w^y to Kilrush, the most easteriy town on the Shannon ; and secondly, in the vicinity of this town lies the island of Scattery, on which stands one of the finest of the Irish *Ulou ad Towers," and, again, the. ruins of " Seven Churches."
From Edenvale to Kilrush the d£stahce is about sixteen English miles, and along the whole way, though this was the main road S)r the easterb part of the country, I passed not a single village, nor a single hUt fit for a human habitation. The landscape, was everywhere naked and tre6- Jess;' the colour of the soil W^s the most melancholy that can be imagined ^ black, or| ^ dirty bro«Wi'— for one great bog seemed to cover all things, even the rocks. |f it made me sad, however, huw much sadder must such a country make the poor gU^a adtßriplust t^® vassal of a bard landlord, the. lather of a group of starving «lggedebildc«al

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17
The neglected Moate of Dowth

Dowth · townland · Meath

A similar great tumulus at Dowth, called the Moate of Dowth, resembles New Grange and may be even larger, but the author laments that despite the wealth of local gentry, its interior passage has never been opened or investigated.

Read the passage

There are many similar tumati along the shores of the Boyne, but they are none of them ^ BO large or important as that of New Grange, except one at Dowth called the Moate of Dowtb, which appears exactly to resemble the former. If any thing, it is rather the higher and larger of the two, and is less overgrown than that of New Grange. At ä place where the turf has been cut away, the material is rendered visible, and this cahm consists, like the one I visited, of enormous masses of flijit, piled upon one another. Upon one side an entrance has been discovered, exactly like that of New Grange, leading probably to a similar narrow cavemlike passage, and this passage to similar, or better atfl], to larger and somewhat different chapels, the comparison of which with those already known, might lead to most interesting discoveries. But to the disgrace of the proprietors and gentry of the surrounding country, with their fortunes often thousand a year and more, the entrance has never been opened, and no part of the monument has ever been investigated. I remember well how provoking I thought it, to find so many curious tumuli untouched and unopened in South Russia and among the Tartars ; but I have ceased to wonder at that, now that I find such remarkable and interesting antiquities standing as neglected and as unheeded in the midst of a country like Great Britain, as did the pyramids in the African deserts. One would fancy that on English ground every relic <$^ring attractions to antiquarians, artists, or dilettanti, would have been explored, ransacked, and classified over and over again ; yet this negleoted cairn at Dowth is no solitary instance. From the hill of Dowth we enjoyed a beauti- (fol view of the ralley of the Boyufl. with all the

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 63

As the companion tells it

Close to Dowth, somewhere around here, stands the Moate of Dowth, a great burial mound along the Boyne. There are many such mounds along these shores, but none as large or important as the one at Newgrange, except this. It appears to resemble Newgrange exactly. If anything, it is rather the higher and larger of the two, and it is less overgrown. At a place where the turf has been cut away, the material is visible, and the cairn consists of enormous masses of flint piled upon one another, just like the one at Newgrange. On one side, an entrance has been discovered, exactly like that of Newgrange, leading probably to a similar narrow cavern-like passage, and that passage to similar, or perhaps larger and somewhat different chambers. The comparison of these with those already known might lead to most interesting discoveries. But to the disgrace of the proprietors and gentry of the surrounding country, with their fortunes of ten thousand a year and more, the entrance has never been opened, and no part of the monument has ever been investigated. The author remembers how provoking he thought it to find so many curious tumuli untouched and unopened in South Russia and among the Tartars. But he says he has ceased to wonder at that, now that he finds such remarkable and interesting antiquities standing as neglected and as unheeded in Great Britain as the pyramids in the African deserts. One would fancy that every relic offering attractions to antiquarians, artists, or dilettanti would have been explored, ransacked, and classified over and over again. Yet this neglected cairn at Dowth is no solitary instance. From the hill of Dowth, the author enjoyed a beautiful view of the valley of the Boyne.
The Seven Churches near Shannon Harbour

Clonmacnoise · townland · Offaly

Not far from Shannon Harbour, further up the river, lie ruins known as the 'Seven Churches,' a site held sacred since the earliest period of Irish Christianity. Among the ruins are scattered the graves said to be of ancient Irish kings.

Read the passage

' Not for from Shannon Harbour, a little farther up the river, are ruins of much greater interest, known as the '* Seven Churches," This is a spot that has been held sacred from the earliest period of Irish Christianity. The ruins of the churches lie near the beautiful banks of the river, and amon^ ihem are .«scattered the grave*«, it is said, of a number of the ancient lrl«»h king<. I bad occasion, afterwards, to see other place«; of similar sanctity, and .shall return to the subject. Innhe same wav that Shannon Harbour bad

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 13
Unemployed Labourers Seeking Work on Sunday

Ennis · town · Clare

Travelling through towns on a Sunday, the author observed many poor men in their Sunday clothes but carrying spades, grouped near churches and marketplaces waiting to be hired to dig potatoes.

Read the passage

I was grieved as I passed on the Sunday through several towns to see so many poor fellows loitering about, and on the look out fpr work. They were most of them in their Sunday attire, but with their spades In their hands, and stood grouped about the churches and market-places waiting to be hired to dig potatoes. I was shocked at the sight ol such sad and serious multitudes, and all unemployed.
Clare is a poor and ruinous place, that re- , minded me of the Polish and Lithuanian cities. Though it bear^ the name of the county, it is no( the chief town, that honour being enjoyed by Ennis, a much more orderly and prosperouslookin? place, and celebrated in the history of Ireland, on account of the extraordinary excitement that accompanied the election of O'Connell for the county of Clare, in 1828->an election that immediately preceded, and in a great measure contributed to bring about, Catholle Emancipation.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 16
Workhouses as fortress-like structures feared by beggars

Wexford · town · Wexford

The author describes the newly built workhouses across Ireland as fortress-like buildings of gray stone with turrets, situated on heights outside towns, which were feared and avoided by beggars who preferred vagabond independence to the constrained comfort within.

Read the passage

Upon the whole a very fair idea may be formed of an Irish town of the present dav, by imagining it to consist of the following elements : a number of handsome buildings, and about an equal number of ruinous dw.ellings, a quantity of wretched suburban huts, some new and wellbuilt national üid infant schools, some old and some new catholic churches, a fever hospital, an extensive workhouse that looks like a fortress, and perhaps a barrack or two for soldiers. The workhouses, I say, look like fortresses. They generally lie on a height outside the town, probably for the benefit of fresh air. They are built of a firm gray stone, are surrounded by liigh walls, and are generally decorated by little turrets and other castellated appendages. They are visible at a great distance, and are the terror of all Irish beggars, who infinitely prefer a vagabond independence to the constraint and 'Comfort of one of these establishments. In some places, no workhouses have yet been erected, and in such districts it is that the Irish .beggars swarm in greater masses than elsewhere. Foi;merly the poor of the country were . maintained exclusively by private benevolence^ which, in no part of the United Kingdom was •exercised more freely than in Ireland. This .private charity is now in some measure brought in^o collision with the system of order attempted to be introduced by the state. The Irish, full of the spirit of kindness, do not like to have limits placed to the exercise of their private benevolence, and are, in consequence, doubly taxed by the imposition of a poor-rate ; so that, on the whole, they are anything hut friendly to the reform lately introduced among them. Not only the beggars, therefore, but the habitual .almsgivers also, look with an unfriendly eye upon poor-rates and workhouses, which they imagine will never be able to hold their ground in the country. It is to be hoped that their wishes and expectations in this respect may never be realized, for whatever inconveniences ■may be inseparable from a transition from the maintenance of the poor by private charity, to \ their maintenance by the state, there cannot be a doubt that the latter is the preferable system.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 44

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Wexford, you might notice the workhouse standing on a height outside the town, built of firm gray stone, surrounded by high walls and decorated with little turrets and other castellated appendages. The author of this passage, travelling through Ireland, says these workhouses look like fortresses. They were generally placed on a height outside the town, probably for the benefit of fresh air, and they were visible at a great distance. They were the terror of all Irish beggars, who infinitely preferred a vagabond independence to the constraint and comfort of one of these establishments. The author notes that where no workhouses had yet been erected, the Irish beggars swarmed in greater masses than elsewhere. Formerly, the poor of the country were maintained exclusively by private benevolence, which in no part of the United Kingdom was exercised more freely than in Ireland. This private charity was now brought into collision with the system of order attempted by the state. The Irish, full of the spirit of kindness, did not like to have limits placed to the exercise of their private benevolence, and were in consequence doubly taxed by the imposition of a poor rate. Not only the beggars but the habitual almsgivers also looked with an unfriendly eye upon poor rates and workhouses, which they imagined would never be able to hold their ground in the country. The author hoped their wishes would never be realized, for whatever inconveniences might come from the transition, there could be no doubt that maintenance by the state was the preferable system.
A Peasant Woman's Broken Kettle Near Dundalk Hills

Dundalk · town · Louth · 1842–1844

Kohl encounters a tinker mending an old potato-kettle at a wretched cabin in the hills beyond Dundalk; the peasant woman explains the kettle had been damaged for a year or two because tinkers rarely come and are too expensive.

Read the passage

been in its present condition. ** Ah ! your honour, it's been so a long time," she replied. ** For the last year or two, whenever I boiled potatoes I had to put the kettle awry on the fire, and not to fill it up. The tinkers seldom come near us, and then they're so expensive, we have tu get on as best we can without them, your honour."
The tinkers in Ireland, as elsewhere, are a nomadic race, but here they are always ragged and wretched-looking. " They are rowers^ the tinkers," saj the Irish ; and if you ask an explanation 01 the phrase, tbey answer "Rowers* — ^that means they are always rambling about." I suppose, therefore, that in Ireland the word ** rower," besides its common signification, is used to designate vagabonds or wanderers. The tinkers generally ramble about only during the summer, and are often accompaoied by their families, like our gipsies. In the winter they inhabit little mud-cabins, upon some great bog, where fuel is to be had tor little or nothing. Sometimes these mud cabins stand empty on a bog for a number of summers ; sometimes they are only built for the one winter, and fall to pieces wheq abandoned.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 68
Ballimahon's Egg Market and Trade to England

Ballymahon · town · Longford

Ballimahon was noted for its extensive egg trade, with egg-buyers going door to door before goods were sent by canal to Dublin and shipped onward to Liverpool and London.

Read the passage

Ballimahon was the second place at which I changed horses. It is a small town, but is known throughout the conntiy for its great egg-market, an article in which much business is also cairied on at Lanesborougb and other places in the c0unty of Longfbrd. In every direction I was continually aeeing the egg^buyers, with baskets on their backs, going about irom hut to hut to make their purchases, which are ailerwarris baonght to the several markets.. The eggs are sent by the canal to Dublin, and thence shipped to England. Liverpool, and even London, are in a great measure supplied with eggs from Ireland.
Passing along a number of crossways and byways, I arrived i^ Atblone. AW the principal loWDS of Ireland, all those of first and second rank, lie along the coast, or, at all events, UrUh' ineary reach of the sea; in the inland pans of the island one sees none but towns of inferior importance. One of these is Athlone, which, on account of its central position, appears well situated to be the capital of the country. It is said, indeed, to have once been in contemplation to make it the seat of government ; and it Is even nl>w the spot where the strongest military force is kept, readv to march upon any pert of the island wfiere di-stDrbances may break ont. The

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 12
Belfast fever hospital shows surging epidemic numbers

near Belfast · city · Antrim · 1818–1838

The fever hospital at Belfast recorded a dramatic rise in patients, from 300-600 annually between 1818 and 1836, jumping to 1987 in 1837 and 8393 in 1838, an unprecedented number linked to poverty among manufacturing workers.

Read the passage

Among the public institutions of Belfast, as ^i all manufacturing towns in England and lie* land, the fever hospitals are partioalarly Iik«»ly to attract the attenti«m of the traveller. The close and crowded dwellii^ of maauiaetariag labourers, and the ipoverty an 1 wretchedness too oflen preitalent among them, render the dangers of mfeetioi» fover lüery great among them, and make every thing connected with ' the establishmeot and improvement of forer hospitals of vital importance in manufacturing towns. The etatisticfll tahft^ of the fey^r hospital, at Belfiist, ehow a great increase of fever there daring several years past. From the year 1818 to 1836, the annual number of patients te^ cerved there, usnally varied from 300 to 600. The blithest number which occurred during that (Hiriod was 1821. In the year 1837 there were 1987 patients, and iti ld38 the number rose to the unprecedented one of 83f)3. Since that year the number has indeed decreased, but it has never again been reduced under a thousand. The average annual number of patients daring

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 75
Catholic and Protestant Population Balance in Edgeworthtown

Edgeworthstown · town · Longford

The author notes 800 Catholics and 300 Protestants in Edgeworthtown, with Catholics growing wealthier and more numerous since emancipation, a pattern he says applies to nearly all Ireland.

Read the passage

There are 800 Catholics in Edgeworthtown, and 300 Protestants, but the latter do not increase in number it^ an equtol ratio with the former. The Catholics have become wealthier and more powerful since their emancipation, as well as more numerous, and this remark wiU apply to liearly all Ireland. I was also told that the Cath- <rfic8 endeavour at present to induce young men of better femilies than was formerly the case, to devote (hemselves to the church.
I visited the schools in the place. They were well conducted, because the gentry did not neglect ihera. 1 saw nothing very remarkable there, except that in the arithmetic lesson, the teacher joade «rse of the Cbinese-Mongolian-Russian .reckoning board. He told me the board had *een iniroduced into the popular schools of Ireland two years previously, and had been found to answer extremely well. He was aware the instrurnent was of Chinese or Russian origin, and, believed to have heard, that it had teen adopted on the recommendation of a Russian nobleman who had travelled in Ireland. I was not atxle to ascertain whether this was really the case. Perhaps the English obtained it directly from China. The Chinese were, unquestionably, the first inventors of this useful instrument, which, i am only surprised, has not long ago been adopted in cveiy country in Europe.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 9

As the companion tells it

Coming up through Edgeworthstown, the author found 800 Catholics and 300 Protestants living here, with the Catholic population growing wealthier and more numerous since emancipation, a pattern he said held across nearly all Ireland. He was also told that Catholic families of better standing were now encouraging their young men to take holy orders. The schools in the town were well conducted, he noted, because the local gentry did not neglect them. What struck him most was the arithmetic class, where the teacher used a reckoning board of Chinese or Russian origin, introduced into Irish popular schools 2 years before and found to work extremely well. The teacher believed a Russian nobleman who had travelled in Ireland had recommended it, though the author could not confirm this and supposed the English might have brought it directly from China, the unquestionable first inventors of the instrument.
Desolate landscape and destitute cabins between Edenvale and Kilrush

Kilrush · town · Clare

Travelling the sixteen miles from Edenvale to Kilrush, the author found no villages or decent habitations, only a bleak boggy landscape and wretched earthen cabins housing starving families under harsh landlords.

Read the passage

From Edenvale to Kilrush the d£stahce is about sixteen English miles, and along the whole way, though this was the main road S)r the easterb part of the country, I passed not a single village, nor a single hUt fit for a human habitation. The landscape, was everywhere naked and tre6- Jess;' the colour of the soil W^s the most melancholy that can be imagined ^ black, or| ^ dirty bro«Wi'— for one great bog seemed to cover all things, even the rocks. |f it made me sad, however, huw much sadder must such a country make the poor gU^a adtßriplust t^® vassal of a bard landlord, the. lather of a group of starving «lggedebildc«al
la Uanmuji, In Earbonia, in l^itbnania, aad ia

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17

As the companion tells it

As you come into Kilrush, the road has run sixteen miles from Edenvale through country the author found naked and treeless, the soil black or dirty brown, one great bog covering all things. Along the whole way, on what was the main road for the eastern part of the country, he passed not a single village, nor a single hut fit for a human habitation. He wrote that it made him sad, but asked how much sadder such a country must make the poor man, vassal of a hard landlord and father of a group of starving, ragged children.
Drogheda's linen trade under pressure from English factories

Drogheda · town · Louth

Drogheda's staple trade is linen, but its yarn-spinning has suffered from competition with large new spinning factories established at Leeds, part of a broader shift in the Irish linen industry.

Read the passage

The linen trade forms the staple trade of X>rogheda ; but some branches, particularly the spinning of yarn, have been much depressed of late, by the erection of large spinning-factories at Ijeeds. The manufacturing of linen is a new l)ranch of industry ; whereas, in Ireland, it* is •one of the oldest that exists. The Irish linen trade has occupied the legislatures of Ireland and England for more than two hundred years. In England the subject has excited attention ^nly since the beginning of the present century, ,when the trade acquired some importance, in consequence of the introduction of large spinliing-machines. In Ireland, also, these large machines have been introduced, and have ef fected quite a revokition in the trade. Some {Places have suffered, and others have gained by the change^ It is a singular fact that the exportation of Irish linen to England and to foreign •countries has not undergone any material change in amount since the beginning of this century. The quantity, during that time, has afways fluctuated between thirty-five and fifty-five millions of ells ; if, then, there be any foundation for the complaint of the manufacturers that their trade has been declining, it must lie in the increase of population, and the increased number of hands pressing forward for employment. The population of Ireland, since 1800, has nearly doubled, and, therefore, for the linen traders to have no subject of complaint, the consumption and exportation of their merchandise ought to have in- , creased in the same ratio.

Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 60

As the companion tells it

As you come through Drogheda in Louth, you are passing through a town whose staple trade has long been linen. The spinning of yarn here has suffered lately, pressed by large new spinning factories established at Leeds. Linen manufacturing in England is a relatively new branch of industry, while in Ireland it is one of the oldest that exists, and the Irish linen trade has occupied the legislatures of both Ireland and England for over 200 years. In England the trade only drew attention at the beginning of the present century, when the introduction of large spinning machines gave it some importance. Those same large machines have now been introduced in Ireland too, and they have brought quite a revolution in the trade. Some places have suffered from the change and others have gained. One striking fact is that the export of Irish linen to England and to foreign countries has not changed much in amount since the start of the century. The quantity has always fluctuated between 35 and 55 million ells. If the manufacturers complain that their trade is declining, the real cause may lie in the rise of population. Since 1800 the population of Ireland has nearly doubled, so for the linen traders to have no grievance, the consumption and export of their goods ought to have risen in the same proportion.

This book is in the public domain; how the books' rights are judged. The passages are quoted as the scan has them, spelling and all; a story's place is the gazetteer's best reading of the text and can be wrong.

Ireland. Dublin, the Shannon, Limerick, Cork, and the Kilkenny races, the round towers, the lakes of Killarney, the county of Wicklow ... and the Giant's causeway

The stories, best first

Cork Fever Hospital and the Typhus Epidemic

Cottiers' huts hidden in the landscape near Dublin's fertile plains

Father Mathew's temperance hall reception at Kilrush

Galway contribution and debate over Connaught graziers' fears

Gamble's Preserved Provision Warehouse in Cork

Inniscaltra: seven churches, round tower, and St. Patrick's Purgatory tradition

Land ownership of Irish towns

Tenant-at-will conditions under Mr. Gage on Rathlin

The famed myrtles of Glenarm and the Giant's Causeway model

A living skeleton beggar near Kilrush

Brian Boru's March Played by Blind Harper at Drogheda

Car accident on the road from Listowel

Cork's Butter Market and Firkin Crane

Gallery for the poor in Edgeworthtown's Protestant church

Recent Ruins from Eviction and Emigration

Scattery Island's Round Tower and Seven Churches

Shillelagh gives its name to the Irish fighting stick

Suspension bridge at Kenmare

The Glens of Antrim: last refuge of Irish language on the east coast

The Ordnance Survey Map-Making Atelier at Phoenix Park

Tom O'Sullivan's fairy bagpipes tale in Kerry

Rathlin islanders' fear of horses and foxes

Repeal Rooms in Waterford serving nationalist newspapers

Separate Hotels for Catholics and Protestants in Cork

Belfast's Late Arrival of the Printing Press

Cork Barracks and Colonial Troop Rotation

Description of the basalt causeway structure

Drogheda Described as the Last Genuine Irish Town

Drogheda's donation praised as model of patriotic repeal spirit

Enniscorthy as centre of Irish Quakerism

Extreme land subdivision recorded in County Tipperary

Lord Glengall's Resident Landlordism at Cahir

Mac Oghlan's ruined castles near Shannon Harbour

Oat-cake Making Observed Near Drogheda

Paddy's cabin construction described near Kilrush

Poverty and house repair near Tarbert

Saturday Night Pawnbroking in Limerick

Temperance men and Father Mathew's visit at halfway house

The Dark Valley and the Gap of Dunloe

The Golden Bog of Tipperary

The grave of Dallas at Cushendall, slain by Ossian

Tipperary's quarrelsome reputation and the temperance movement's effect

Division between Kenramer and Ushet districts of Rathlin

Association of Harpers funded by Irish exiles in East Indies

Ballycastle as the boundary of the Irish language

Basalt column collapse at Fair Head

Beggar women's custom of spitting on alms for luck at Clonmel

French Convent School for Young Ladies near Cove

Pew Monopoly Reform at Edgeworthtown Church

Scattery Island round tower and Seven Churches near Kilrush

The neglected Moate of Dowth

The Seven Churches near Shannon Harbour

Unemployed Labourers Seeking Work on Sunday

Workhouses as fortress-like structures feared by beggars

A Peasant Woman's Broken Kettle Near Dundalk Hills

Ballimahon's Egg Market and Trade to England

Belfast fever hospital shows surging epidemic numbers

Catholic and Protestant Population Balance in Edgeworthtown

Desolate landscape and destitute cabins between Edenvale and Kilrush

Drogheda's linen trade under pressure from English factories