Ireland. Dublin, the Shannon, Limerick, Cork, and the Kilkenny races, the round towers, the lakes of Killarney, the county of Wicklow ... and the Giant's causeway

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Eagles nesting on Bengore Head

   Bengore Head · promontory · Antrim

   The author's guides told him that a pair of eagles had nested on top of Bengore Head time out of mind, choosing the highest and most inaccessible points, similar to reports at Fair Head.

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   The early departure of the October son, which had hidden his face in gray clouds the whole day. now compelled me to finish my excursion,* although there remained two most interesting points unvrsited. I had not yet climbed the real Bengore Head, and I nad not examined the ruins of one of the most interesting castles in the north of Ireland, Dunloee ' Castle, which lies about two miles westward of the Giant*s Causeway. I sat down, very tired, on the brink of a diff lofiking into the •* Bay of Sighs," and looked dolefuHy across to the dark promontory, frown iqg in lonely grandeur above the angry surges. My guides informed me — all twenty at once—that a pair of eagles had had their nest, time. out of mind, on the top of Bengore ; and as the same thing had been told me at Fair Head, it would seem that they choose only the highest and most inaccessible points. My first sigh was fur Bengore, my second for Dunluce Castle, to which I had several times approached very near, but from which I was now separated by four miles of rough basalt road. My sighs were echoed by my whole twenty attendants, so that I had a lively idea of the sighs of Port na Trughen.

   "Ah! your hnn mr, what a pity that you can't see Dunluce, and that yon can't go there ^ to-monrnw ; youll be sorry fpr it all yoor life. There isn't a castle in the world that has a situation like it." The rock on which it stands, they went on to tell me, is a great cubic rock loosened from the coast, and lying in the middle of the sea, and washed all round by the waves ; the top is perfectly flat, and the sides so steep and craggy, that even a sw/allow can hardly get up them. It is entirely covered with ruins to the extreme edge Maiva*s tower, Mac Quillan's tower, the great castle hall, its various courts — all can still be plainly distinguished. Some walls have fallen into the sea, and lie among the boulderstones in the surf The rock is connected by a wooden bridge with the mainland, where formerly stood some fortifications connected with the castle. The greater part is built with the black basaltic columns, as many buildings on this coast still are. The eldest son of the Earl of Antrim still takes a title from these ruins of Dun!uce Castle. It was built and inhabited hef »re the earliest records, and was for more than a thousand years the seat of s-^veral proud and independent races.

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 88

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Bengore Head, a pair of eagles had their nest for as long as anyone could remember. An October traveller once sat down, very tired, on the brink of a cliff looking into the Bay of Sighs, and looked across to the dark promontory, frowning in lonely grandeur above the angry surges. The sun had hidden its face in gray clouds the whole day, and now its early departure compelled him to finish his excursion, though two most interesting points remained unvisited. He had not yet climbed the real Bengore Head, and he had not examined the ruins of Dunluce Castle, one of the most interesting castles in the north of Ireland, lying about two miles west of the Giant's Causeway. His guides, all twenty at once, told him that a pair of eagles had had their nest,

2. Glenarm, seat of the Antrim (MacDonnell) family

   near Glenarm · village · Antrim

   The valley of Glenarm is described as the most beautiful spot on the Antrim coast, home to Glenarm Castle, seat of the Antrim family (MacDonnell), with a park, gardens, deer, and ancient trees. Kohl notes he visited the castle's mistress and describes the surrounding basaltic glen.

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   ', Gilenaum i? the most beadtiläl point' älOAjgf (he - whple eoa$t, of Antrim ; iofdeed the^ ioriany attrac- ' tion8 which unite m this valley, i^derft One of ttee most heautifal spots m^IrelandJ On each' side, of it ri^es a long range of dark' baaaSlic^ rocks^ leaving« wide tevelibetWeen, as= they run' inland tolerably plurallel* ton each other. A littlebrook sparkles thixiugfa thö. valley, and here and^ there littte waterfalls mh'ddwnthe black roektf' on either side-, keening the land wdl irrigatfed, and covering it with a carpet of the hrfghtest?' verdureTimagi^able, as well asafiibrdingnötirish^ ment to the most beautiful dumps of stately ol(^' trees^ which dot it here and there; In thi^ vaV' ley lies the residence of i he Antrim ihmily, and'' the little village appertaining to it. , Near the village and the castle, g 11 traces of wilderness ' vanish^entimly, and a charming park and preny ' flower-garden confer additional beautie^ on the scene. The castle itself, to whose distinguislred ' mistress I had the honour of paying a visit, i^ built in a fine old Gothic style, and fumiAKed with modem taste and elegance. Fonr hundred deer and stags graze around it, and six hundred old ancestral trees overshadow its grounds with their sheading boughs : and «11 th is sifiiling and peaceful beauty, sheltered ttetwcen'the wiM btatk ■ rocks, which form the little gles^ with a Vfe^ opeoing on old ocean rolHtig his stivmv wMt^^'r crested waves beyond, ibrms perhaps the most' ^ wonderful site in all the ^orld for a suÄäly*| baronial mansion. • > * !

   When the Antrim family eameiovisr, I^oiMyrknowi but ibeir present fosisessiöris-^Bit titles were giyei^ them «^ Ciiartol. iailfiaa "IMr^

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 78

   As the companion tells it

   Glenarm lies along this coast, a village in a valley that the book calls the most beautiful point on the whole coast of Antrim. On each side of the valley rises a long range of dark basalt rocks, running inland roughly parallel to each other with a wide level between them. A little brook sparkles through the valley, and here and there little waterfalls come down the black rocks on either side, keeping the land well watered and covering it with a carpet of the brightest verdure imaginable. Beautiful clumps of stately old trees dot it here and there. In this valley lies the residence of the Antrim family, and the little village belonging to it. Near the village and the castle all traces of wilderness vanish entirely, and a charming park and pretty flower-garden confer additional beauties on the scene. The castle itself, to whose distinguished mistress the writer had the honour of paying a visit, is built in a fine old Gothic style and furnished with modern taste and elegance. 400 deer and stags graze around it, and 600 old ancestral trees overshadow its grounds with their spreading boughs. All this smiling and peaceful beauty, sheltered between the wild black rocks which form the glen with a view opening on old ocean rolling his silvery white-crested waves beyond, forms perhaps the most wonderful site in all the world for a stately baronial mansion. When the Antrim family came over, their possessions and titles were given by Charles.

3. Innisfallen Island's ancient trees and abbey ruins

   Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

   Innisfallen, the largest island on the lake, is covered with old oak, ash, and holly trees including one holly twelve feet in circumference, plus the ruins of an ancient abbey remembered in verse by Thomas Moore.

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   wretched, sHisted lioUie^^tbat 6t9^ on a sickiy existeDoe in the Japdia des Plantes, in Paris, where ev6ry caie is taken of them. One of the mighty ash trees had been torn up by the roots in a storm of the preceding winter, and had carried with it a mass of rock, twenty feet in circamfereDce, round which its roots had entwined themselves, and which, as it lay prostrate, it still held firmly clasped. There are also the ruins of an ancient abbey, and many beautiful thickets of evergreens, on this island, which Thomas Moore has remembered in his lines :

   '* Sweet Innisfallen, f«w thee well, May calm and •oBshine long be thiiM, How fair thou art let others tell. While but to feel how fair be mine."

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Innisfallen, the largest island on the lake is covered with old oak, ash, and holly trees. One holly measures twelve feet in circumference. A mighty ash tree was torn up by the roots in a storm the preceding winter, carrying with it a mass of rock, twenty feet in circumference, round which its roots had entwined, and which, as it lay prostrate, it still held firmly clasped. There are also the ruins of an ancient abbey, and beautiful thickets of evergreens. Thomas Moore remembered this place in his lines: "Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, May calm and sunshine long be thine, How fair thou art let others tell, While but to feel how fair be mine."

4. Insurgent chief held out in the uninhabited mountains

   Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

   During the last rebellion, one of the insurgent chiefs kept his ground in the uninhabited mountains near Glendalough long after the rest of the country had been pacified.

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   I had heard so much of the Seven Churchesand the Round Tower of the Vale of GlendaK ough, that I spent only a few hours in Rathdrum, and then hastened into the mountains on a small one-horse car ; had I known what an: incomparable spot of earth it is that is known by the name of Glendalough, the hours I spent at Rathdrum should have been reduced to as- - many minutes. The road passes through the Vale of Clara, watered by the Avonmore, and then runs ten miles in a sideward direction, to the sources of some tributary streams of that river. The country is very little inhabited. Along the whole of these ten miles I saw but one village. The mountains to the north of these valleys, however, are still more thinly peopled ; so much so, that they have receivedthe name of the " uninhabited mountains,'* and are in this respect quite a phenomenon, considering their vicinity to Dublin. They occupy an extent of country nearly fiileen miles in length,, and ten in breadth ; and within this space, not only the mountains, but even the valleys, are almost untenanted by man. The soil is everywhere a thin covering of grass over a rocky bottom, and destitute of every other vegetation. Goats graze upon these mountains, and.wander about there in the same half-wild condition as over the mountains of Kerry. Sometimes, indeed, they are said to become so wild, that the herdsman is forced to turn hunter, and, instead of catching his goats, to shoot them. In the last rebellion, one of the insurgent- chiefs kept his ground in these uninhabited mountains k>ng after thereat of the country had been tranquillized. ' It remains incomprehensible to me, however,, that ao close to the metropolis of Ireland, so • wild a district can exist. There are within the Brit'sh dominions large districts of greater natural fertility than any of which we can boast, but there are likewise districts much wikler thaa< any to be found in our less populous Germany, with all her forests and mountains. Have we a province in which goats or sheep live in a half- wild state 1 Even on our loiliest Alps, the cattle is everywhere tended and kept within some sort of eock>sttre. Nov/bere do I remember in Germany to baveaeen a^cpuntry so utterly wild, so thinly peopled, and that by a oraee ^ living in such apparent wretchedness, as is the case with this Irish district, and with some I have seen in Scotland. These things form a part of the physiognomy of a country, and are characteristic of its social condition.

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 47

   As the companion tells it

   The road through Glendalough leads into country that is very little inhabited. Along ten miles of it the writer of this passage saw but one village. The mountains to the north are still more thinly peopled, so much so that they have been called the uninhabited mountains. They cover nearly 15 miles in length and 10 in breadth, and within that space not only the mountains but even the valleys are almost without people. The soil is a thin covering of grass over a rocky bottom, with little other vegetation. Goats graze there in the same half-wild condition as over the mountains of Kerry. Sometimes they become so wild that the herdsman is forced to turn hunter and shoot them instead of catching them. In the last rebellion, one of the insurgent chiefs kept his ground in these uninhabited mountains long after the rest of the country had been tranquillized. The writer found it incomprehensible that so wild a district could exist so close to the metropolis of Ireland. He compared it to Germany, where even on the loftiest Alps cattle are everywhere tended and kept within some sort of enclosure. He wrote that nowhere did he remember seeing in Germany a country so utterly wild, so thinly peopled, and peopled by a race living in such apparent wretchedness, as this Irish district. These things, he said, form a part of the physiognomy of a country, and are characteristic of its social condition.

5. Irish-Language Sermons Scarce in Cork

   Cork · city · Cork

   In Cork, a district where much Irish was still spoken, only two churches offered sermons in Irish. Irish-speaking prisoners in Cork gaol had recently petitioned their chaplain to preach to them in Irish on Sundays.

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   Those who still regard the ancient Irish Ian* guage as their mother-tongue, are even worse off. The great city of Cork, which lies in a dis» trict where much Irish is still spoken, contains only two churches where sermons are preached in Irish. A short time ago, the Irish prisoners in the Cork gaol petitioned their chaplain that he would sometimes preach his Sunday sermon ta them in Irish.

   The Bishop of Coi^t has one of the most interesting collections of hooks that I have ever seen. This learned, industhoos man, has tor«.

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 34

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Cork, it is worth knowing that this city sits in a district where much Irish was still spoken, yet only two churches here preached their sermons in Irish. Not long before this was written, the Irish-speaking prisoners in Cork gaol petitioned their chaplain to preach his Sunday sermon to them in Irish.

6. Low crime rate in County Wexford

   Wexford · town · Wexford

   Official returns showed County Wexford had the lowest rate of crimes in Ireland, with some years recording no murders at all, while national murders ranged between 160 and 300.

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   the f^yvt^est orHaes oeear ; • mä I ftmtär in rlootting over the returns, tih'at, though the murder» for all Ifeland ranged between 160 aed 300; yet there were freqnentiy years in whieh no crtaieof the kind was committed in the county of Wexford. The people of Wexford I fouod» moreover, considered thems^ves much more intelligent and enlightened than their ooonerymen to the west, and the Barony 4>f Piirth, the south-eastern peninsula, eut off from the Atat of the county by the hills of Forth, is said to contain the most orderiy people in all Ireland. It was originally a Welsh coiooy, . phmted by Strongbow, and during seven eentuhes these colonists have kept themselves apart framthe^ rest of the population. They stiR marry, only among «themselves, aild In ihe last century th^ still 'understood Welsh. The most remarlBBble characteristic of the barony, however, is^shstit contftins no beffgars. It is as dhficult, in Iteland, to imagroe a disCriot without btggnsr^a^ in other countries, to believe in the existence of a whole nation ef theen. In «bert, the Barony of Forth is to the county of Wexford^'<wluit the latter is to Ireland. ' In Wexlbrd, the land ' is divided into a number of eaiall estates,, instead of being concentrated in a übw haiidB. There are no large proprietors, but all thoiuor» persons of moderate wealth, and abeeoleeialft is iMmost unknown. All this prevafls to <a still greater «xtent in the Barony efFoitli, where the peasants are generaUy the owuem of the soil th^ till, dwell in elean and orderly houses, and seem to feel that vags: are, aft ell events, a deformity. Their ooUyifes) sie surrounded by flower-gardens, they mingle not kk the political squabbles by which the rest Of lieland is kept in hot water, «nd prateataBtsand catholics dwell among them in peace and^pDodwHI. In a word, the Barony of Forth f reseats a moral picture that naturally awakens < Ihe itquiry, «* And why is it not even so: thtoaghout thereetoflrelandf*

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 42

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Wexford, the official returns tell a striking story. Across all of Ireland, murders ranged between 160 and 300 in the years recorded. Yet there were frequently years in which no crime of that kind was committed in the county of Wexford at all. The people of Wexford considered themselves more intelligent and enlightened than their countrymen to the west. And the Barony of Forth, the south-eastern peninsula cut off from the rest of the county by the hills of Forth, is said to contain the most orderly people in all Ireland. It was originally a Welsh colony, planted by Strongbow. For seven centuries these colonists kept themselves apart from the rest of the population. They still married only among themselves, and in the last century they still understood Welsh. The most remarkable characteristic of the barony, however, is that it contains no beggars. In Wexford, the land is divided into a number of small estates, instead of being concentrated in a few hands. There are no large proprietors, but all are persons of moderate wealth, and absenteeism is almost unknown. This prevails to a still greater extent in the Barony of Forth, where the peasants are generally the owners of the soil they till. They dwell in clean and orderly houses, and seem to feel that vagrancy is a deformity. Their cottages are surrounded by flower-gardens. They mingle not in the political squabbles by which the rest of Ireland is kept in hot water. Protestants and Catholics dwell among them in peace and goodwill. In a word, the Barony of Forth presents a moral picture that naturally awakens the inquiry, "And why is it not even so throughout the rest of Ireland?"

7. Sculpted stone face built into Scattery church wall

   Scattery Island · townland · Clare

   Into the wall of one of the three better-preserved churches on Scattery, nearest the round tower, a stone strangely sculptured into a human face had been inserted, its stiff features resembling Egyptian statues. Kohl concludes it must have originally belonged to another building.

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   Of somc^ of tHe seyen cbnrcbes on Scattery ifile, scarcely a trace remained; bat three of them were in tolerable preservation. Their walls, covered with ivy, remained, and into tbe wall oi one o£ them, that nearest tne round tower, a Mone strangely scalptured into the ibrmof a human face, had been introdaced. Strange to say, it has completely tbe stiff, maskltke features 4md projecting ears of the Egyptian statues, whence I conclude it must have belonged origivnallv to^ some other building. On the opposite wall is a stoiie with evident traces of an, ancient ^inscription.

   The round tower stands a little to tbe side. Although not perfect, it belongs to ihe most picturesque in Ireland, for it has been struck by lightning, and has received a split on one side from top to bottom. On the south side it is covered completely with mosses and creeping plants ; on the north and west side it is bar6, the heavy winds, as tbe sailors told me. making all vegetation impossible there, l^ightning and vegeution are tlie worst enemies ,tbe round towers have to contend with, and it is strange that such active foes should not have been able to overiom tbe whole of them in a space of 2000 years.

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 18

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Scattery Island, seven churches once stood. Of some of them, scarcely a trace remained, but three were in tolerable preservation, their walls covered with ivy. Into the wall of one of those three, the one nearest the round tower, a stone strangely sculptured into the form of a human face had been inserted. It has completely the stiff, masklike features and projecting ears of the Egyptian statues. The author concludes it must have belonged originally to some other building. On the opposite wall is a stone with evident traces of an ancient inscription. The round tower stands a little to the side. Although not perfect, it belongs to the most picturesque in Ireland, for it has been struck by lightning and has received a split on one side from top to bottom. On the south side it is covered completely with mosses and creeping plants. On the north and west side it is bare, the heavy winds, as the sailors told the author, making all vegetation impossible there. Lightning and vegetation are the worst enemies the round towers have to contend with, and it is strange that such active foes should not have been able to overcome the whole of them in a space of 2000 years.

8. St. Columba's monastery on Rathlin

   near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim · 400–900

   In the fifth century, St. Columba founded a monastery on Rathlin which flourished until the ninth century, when it was destroyed amid the wider barbarian invasions that swept across Europe and Ireland.

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   From the earliest period of Irish history. Rath* lin has been mentioned as an inhabited place ;■ and in the fiflh century the Scotch and Irish apostle, St. Columba, founded here a monastery, which, like so many other pious establishmentsof the kind in Ireland, flourished till the commencement of the ninth century, when the gieat barbarian deluge which had flowed over Gepmany, France, Italy, England, Ireland, and Scotland, swept even across the little island of Rathlin, and buried its holy edifice in ruin.

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 81

   As the companion tells it

   Rathlin appears in the earliest Irish history as an inhabited place. In the 5th century the apostle St. Columba founded a monastery on the island, and it flourished like many such foundations in Ireland. That lasted until the start of the 9th century. A great barbarian deluge had flowed over Germany, France, Italy, England, Ireland, and Scotland. It swept even across this small island and buried the holy edifice in ruin.

9. Stone basins found within the Newgrange chambers

   Newgrange · townland · Meath

   Each of the small chapels within Newgrange contains a large stone basin resembling a font, roughly twenty feet in circumference and hollowed at the top; one chapel held two such basins, one within another.

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   We now proceed to examine the seimrate curiosities of the little chapels. Each contains a large stone basin, and one of them is furnished with two of them. Tbey all bear some resemblance to .the fonts of Christian churches,, being large, round stones, about twenty feet m eircumferenoe, hollowed slightly at the top, se as to form a large sbalk^w basin or saucer. The whole workmanship of these basins, however, is so rough and imperfect, that though they have been very evidently somewhat altered from their natural state, it is difficult to discover how this alteration has been efiTected. r^either chisel, knifts, nor measuring stick, canr well have been used here. The cavities look as if they had been caused by the long rubbing: of one large stone upon another. One of the chapels 'contains, as I have said, two such basins, one within another. Perhaps the. other chapels were formerly similarly provided, but have been robbed of their smaller basins by^ antiquarian collectors.

   The northern chapel, which is opposite the entrance, is built of the largest stones. One of the bamns was half-filled with water, which

   Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 62

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Newgrange, inside the chambers, there are stone basins that have long puzzled people who have seen them. Each of the small chapels contains a large stone basin, and one of them holds two, one sitting inside the other. They resemble the fonts you might see in Christian churches, large round stones about 20 feet in circumference, hollowed slightly at the top to form a shallow basin or saucer. The workmanship is rough and imperfect. They have clearly been altered from their natural state, but it is difficult to discover how. Neither chisel, knife, nor measuring stick can well have been used here. The cavities look as if they were caused by the long rubbing of one large stone upon another. Perhaps the other chapels were formerly similarly provided with two basins each, but have been robbed of their smaller ones by antiquarian collectors. The northern chapel, which stands opposite the entrance, is built of the largest stones. One of the basins was half-filled with water.

10. The Devil's Glen closed on Sundays

    near Devil's Glen · valley · Wicklow

    The Devil's Glen near Wicklow, a wild narrow pass through which the river Vartry rushes after a cascade, was closed by an iron gate on Sundays to keep out sightseers, though the author was admitted as a foreigner by a side gate.

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    By ascending the valley of the little river - Vartry, which falls into the sea at Wicklow, you arrive at the Devil's Glen, a wild narrow |»äss» tbn>ugh which the river rushes« aftel' having just fallen in a magnificent cascade from the wild marshy summit. This DeviPs Glen, profane though its ni^me may be, seems to be very pious in it^ observance (>f the Sunday, for the iron gate at the entrance had been closed in honour of the day, and to keep out the vulgar n>ob of Sunday sight-seers. I had met many things of the kind before, both in England and Ireland, but that a wild mountain glen was to be closed against ä traveller on a Sunday seemed to me to be something new. Being a foreigner, however, an exception was made ia my favour, and I was admitted by a side gate.

    Compared to what he has done in other parts of the world, it must be owned the devil had easy work of it in this glen. The rocks, to be sure, are wild, lofty, and rugged enough ; still the V jrk to be done was not so hard that they need have called in the great and powerful spirit, who in bis time had to build devil's bridges, and to scoop out devil's caverns, qf a very difijerent character.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you near the valley of the little river Vartry, which falls into the sea at Wicklow. Follow it upstream and you come to the Devil's Glen, a wild narrow pass through which the river rushes after falling in a magnificent cascade from the wild marshy summit above. For all its profane name, the glen kept a strict Sunday. An iron gate at the entrance was closed in honour of the day, to keep out what the writer calls the vulgar mob of Sunday sight-seers. He had met such things before in England and Ireland, but a wild mountain glen closed against a traveller on a Sunday seemed to him something new. Being a foreigner, an exception was made in his favour, and he was admitted by a side gate. He remarks that compared to what the devil has done in other parts of the world, the devil had easy work of it in this glen. The rocks are wild, lofty, and rugged enough, but the work to be done was not so hard that they need have called in the great and powerful spirit, who in his time had to build devil's bridges and scoop out devil's caverns of a very different character.

11. The Druidical isthmus enclosure at Glendalough

    Glendalough · electoral division · Wicklow

    On the narrow isthmus between the two lakes at Glendalough lie traces of ancient circumvallation, one perfectly preserved and seventeen paces in diameter, claimed by Irwin to be a Druid temple, though the author disputes this.

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    On the narrow isthmus between the two lakes are some traces ofancient circumvallation. One,' seventeen paces in diameter, and in perfect pceservation, was at once declared by Irwin to be a temple of the Druids. Other antiquarians pretend that it was only an enclosure for cattle. I am disposed to reject both suppositions, ^or a temple the wall is scarcely large enough, and for an enclosure for cattle it is built with to(f much care and solidity.

    On St. Kevin's day, of the preceding year, this isthmus had been the scene of a great temperance festival. Father Mathew had chosen that day for holding a great meeting on a spot 4S0 dear to the recoUection of every Irishman.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Glendalough in Wicklow, the narrow isthmus between the two lakes holds traces of ancient circumvallation. One circle, 17 paces in diameter and perfectly preserved, was declared by Irwin to be a temple of the Druids. Other antiquarians say it was only an enclosure for cattle. The author disagrees with both. For a temple the wall is scarcely large enough, and for cattle it is built with too much care and solidity. On St. Kevin's day of the preceding year, this same isthmus had been the scene of a great temperance festival. Father Mathew had chosen that day for holding a great meeting on a spot dear to the recollection of every Irishman.

12. The Great and Little Sugar-loaf mountains named for their shape

    near Great Sugar Loaf · mountain or mountain range · Wicklow

    The Great Sugar-loaf and Little Sugar-loaf, the most remarkable mountains in County Wicklow, taper upward like Egyptian pyramids, though their names could not be older than three hundred years since sugar loaves of that shape were only recently made.

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    Leaving Mount Kennedy House we passed the Glen of the Downs, a beautiful corridor of rocks, richly decorated with oaks, ivy, and hushes. It contains some magnificent pointsof view, but you never quit the plain, and after . a few minutes you emerge again into the open country, with the Great Sugar-loaf to your lefl, and the Little Sugar-loaf to your right. These are the most remarkable mountains in the whole county of Wicklow, for they taper upward inas regular a form as the Egyptian pyramids. Their names, however, famous as'thijy have become in Ireland, cannot have been borne by them very long, for it is only during the last three hundred years that it has been the practice to make sugar into the conical loaves iiv which we now see it. Öoth mountains are perfectly naked from the base to the summit.

    Not far from the Sugar-loaves lies the celebrated Killonderry park and the little town of Bray, and a little farther on, the park and mansion of Powerscourt, and the little town of Enniskerry. Thence follows a constant succession of small towns and villages, parks, castles» houses, cottages, and other descriptions of country-seats, all more or less beautiful, either on account of their situation, or of the grounds about them. Hence to Dublin is a denselypeopled district, which Is to Ireland what fhe country of Kent is to England. Of the old, Celtic, turfy, wild Ireland, not a trace is here ta he seen. Everything becomes more and mora English, till we arrive at Kingstown, whence a convenient railway conveys ns back to DuUia;

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    The Great Sugar Loaf is one of the two mountains that stand out in County Wicklow. The other is the Little Sugar Loaf. Together they are the most remarkable mountains in the whole county, because they taper upward in as regular a form as the Egyptian pyramids. Both are perfectly naked from base to summit. Their names, famous as they have become in Ireland, cannot have been borne by them very long. It is only during the last 300 years that it has been the practice to make sugar into the conical loaves we now see. Before that, there was nothing called a sugar loaf for the mountains to take their name from. The road here passes near the Glen of the Downs, a corridor of rocks richly decorated with oaks, ivy, and bushes, with some magnificent points of view. You never quit the plain, and after a few minutes you emerge again into open country. Not far from the Sugar Loaves lies Killonderry park and the little town of Bray, and a little farther on, the park and mansion of Powerscourt, and the little town of Enniskerry. Then follows a constant succession of small towns and villages, parks, castles, houses, and cottages, all more or less beautiful. From here to Dublin is a densely peopled district, which is to Ireland what Kent is to England. Of the old, Celtic, turfy, wild Ireland, not a trace is to be seen. Everything becomes more and more English, till you arrive at Kingstown, where a railway conveys you back to Dublin.

13. The round tower of Monasterboice

    Monasterboice · townland · Louth

    Sheltering from a hailstorm, the author entered the round tower of Monasterboice, noting its usual height of about 170 feet and circumference of fifty feet, though otherwise unremarkable compared to other round towers.

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    We at length arrived at the ruins themselves ; and, at the same time, there arrived one of those stormy and picturesque clouds v^hich we had admired so much as they passed over the landscape. The hail rattied down among the stones of the old ruins, and for shelter we were obliged to creep into the round tower, whose door was luckily near enough to the ground to allow df our entrance. This tower has the uaual height of ITO ffeet, and the usual circumference of fity feet ; and though there is something interesting in visiting one of these curious and remarkable buildings, however familiar one may have become with them, the tower of Monasterboic© has certainly nothing to distinguish it from oth* ers of the same kind. The ruined churches, also, are remarkable only for their picturesque beauty. What renders this spot most interesting, however, are three remarkable crosses erected in honour of three Irish saints, St. Patrick, Boetius, and Columb Kill. These crosMs belong to the most interesting Christian antiquities of Ireland, for tliey are better preserved than most of the remains of a similar character, and very elaborately decorated. They are built of great blocks of stone, placed one upon another, and are between twenty and thirty feet in height. Their shape is very peculiar. Upon a brosKl stone pedestal stands a block of stone, about fonrteen feet high, to the top of which is fastened a cross, formed of fbur arms of equd length, narrowing towards the centre and widening at the ends, like those used by tbe Maltese knights. The arms of the cross are bonnd by a large stone ring or cfrde, whose segments pass round from arm tb arm, and stone cross and stone ring seem united into one figure. Pedestals, crosses, and rings are all covered with curious sculptures, which offer mterestmg subjects of investigation to Irish antiquaries. They prove the existence of a quite peculiar style of Christian art in the early Irish church, and re* nrind us, by the manner of their lines and drawings, of the paintings and decorations in some old illuminated Irish manuscripts which we hhd seen at a library in Dublin.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Monasterboice stands a round tower, one of the curious and remarkable buildings of early Ireland. It has the usual height of about 170 feet, and the usual circumference of fifty feet, and nothing to distinguish it from other towers of the same kind. The ruined churches here are remarkable only for their picturesque beauty. A visitor to these ruins once arrived at the very moment a stormy cloud passed over the landscape. Hail rattled down among the stones, and for shelter they crept into the round tower, whose door was luckily near enough to the ground to allow them entrance. What makes this spot most interesting are three crosses erected in honour of three Irish saints: St. Patrick, Boetius, and Columb Kill. These crosses belong to the most interesting Christian antiquities of Ireland, for they are better preserved than most remains of a similar character, and very elaborately decorated. They are built of great blocks of stone, placed one upon another, and stand between twenty and thirty feet in height. Their shape is peculiar. Upon a broad stone pedestal stands a block of stone about fourteen feet high, to the top of which is fastened a cross formed of four arms of equal length, narrowing towards the centre and widening at the ends, like those used by the Maltese knights. The arms of the cross are bound by a large stone ring or circle, whose segments pass round from arm to arm, and stone cross and stone ring seem united into one figure. Pedestals, crosses, and rings are all covered with curious sculptures. They prove the existence of a quite peculiar style of Christian art in the early Irish church, and remind us, by the manner of their lines and drawings, of paintings and decorations in old illuminated Irish manuscripts seen at a library in Dublin.

14. Wexford's shipbuilding harbour and Perkins's Patent Slip

    Wexford · town · Wexford

    Wexford's harbour was noted as having more locally-owned ships than any other in Ireland, with vessels built using American, Baltic, and Irish oak timber. The author observed Perkins's Patent Slip, a machine for raising and lowering vessels according to the tide, which he found notable even compared to large German seaports.

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    •Weltford, which I viewed on the foUoviipg morning, is an old town, füll of narrow streets and small bofldings. The only broad and handsome thoroughfare is the Quay, which runs along^e side of Wexford Haven. The harbour of Wexford is distinguished as possessing more ships of its own than any other in Ireland. Many vefssels are built here, and American and Baltic timber, and Irish oak, are goods seen everywhere. Ifer^, for the first time, I saw an interesting piebe Of mabhinery called Perkins's Patent ^lip, by means of which vessels in the eonrse of building are raised and lowered according as the state of the tide requires. Such machines are found in so small a place as Wex- 'ford, and are not found even iä'the largest of our German seaport towns !

    A jrentleman to whomtbfs-matAiine belonged,

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    Wexford is an old town of narrow streets and small buildings. Its one broad, handsome thoroughfare is the Quay, running alongside Wexford Haven. The harbour here had more ships of its own than any other in Ireland. Vessels were built in the town, and American and Baltic timber and Irish oak were seen everywhere. The author saw a piece of machinery called Perkins's Patent Slip, which raised and lowered vessels according to the state of the tide. Such a machine was found in Wexford, and was not found even in the largest German seaport towns.

15. Women of Limerick praised for repeal subscription

    Limerick · city · Limerick · 1843

    A subscription from the women of Limerick is read out at the meeting, prompting O'Connell to make complimentary remarks about the city's female inhabitants, who are greeted with three cheers on Tom Steele's motion.

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    Next followed a •ubseriptibn froM the wotttbai of Limerick, which called forth from O'ConlitMl some complimentary remarks lo the f^ir ii^abitants of that city, who, on the motion of Tom Steele, were greeted with three loud and ringr ing cheers. A contribution from Galvvay called O'Connell again on his legs. There were no tmer Irish hearts anywhere, be said, than in Con naught, hut he was aware that the large graziers there dreaded a repeal of the union, as Hkely to lead in England to the imposition of tn import duty on Irish cattle.

    *' I look up<m every apprehension of the kind,** he continued, ** as entirely unfounded. Do ftm. believe the English will be less hungry after tho repeal of the union than they are now t I believe tbey will have as much appetite then at ever they had. They like onr cattle now better than what they get fVom abroad, and hereafter, when we are independent again, oor meadow» and our cornfields will be better cultivated, akid we shall be able to offer them better cattle tliMa we can now. And shoald they then refuse to take it, because it was not onion eatlie, why, I believe that our independence would awaken a» to increased industry, and we should soon be able to buy the Connaught cattle for onr own consumption, without being at all beholden t» England for taking>it o'ff our bands. Besides, we know that the union aflbrds no protection te oor graziers, for the English will certainly be deterred by no consideration for us firom getting their cattle elsewhere, if they can boy it diesiger and better than they can from as. On this pant the new tariff has suflSciently enlightened m, in. draviring up which, not the least coneideratioa was shown for our interests ; and if that tariff has had no greater influence on oor cattle trade than it has, the reason is, that they can get sapplied by us with a better and a comparatively cheaper article than by the foreigner."

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    In 1843, the city of Limerick saw its women take a stand for repeal. At a meeting that year, a subscription from the women of Limerick was read out to the crowd. Daniel O'Connell rose to speak on the strength of it, offering complimentary remarks about the female inhabitants of that city. On the motion of Tom Steele, the women of Limerick were greeted with three loud and ringing cheers. The meeting went on. A contribution from Galway brought O'Connell to his feet again. He said there were no truer Irish hearts anywhere than in Connaught, but he knew the large graziers there dreaded a repeal of the union, fearing it would lead England to impose an import duty on Irish cattle. O'Connell called that fear entirely unfounded. He asked whether the English would be less hungry after repeal than they were now. He believed they would have the same appetite as ever. They liked Irish cattle better than what they got from abroad, and when Ireland was independent again, Irish meadows and cornfields would be better cultivated, and Irish cattle would be better than ever. And if England should refuse to take Irish cattle because it was not union cattle, O'Connell said independence would awaken the people to increased industry, and they would soon buy the Connaught cattle for their own consumption, without being beholden to England. He added that the union gave no protection to graziers, for England would get cattle elsewhere if it was cheaper and better. The new tariff had shown that, drawn up with no consideration for Irish interests. Yet that tariff had no great effect on the cattle trade, because Ireland supplied a better and cheaper article than any foreigner could.

16. Cahir's Rival Church Spires

    Caher · town · Tipperary

    The town of Cahir on the river Suir was approached with the spire of its catholic church visible towering over the smaller Protestant church steeple, illustrating the growing prominence of catholic church building across Ireland at the time.

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    The town of Cahir is beautifully situated oi]b the shores of the river Suir, and long before weentered it we saw the proud spire of its catholic church towering out of the plain, and appearing to look down with haughty contempt on the little steeple of the Protestant church beside it. In many parts of Ireland the catholic churches are now beginning to tower above those of **the establishment," as the English often call their church ; and all over the country the Irish catholics are vying with the English protestants in the zeal with which they build new churches and repair old ones. The present mania for church building in the United Kingd<tm surpasses any thing I have ever seen out of Russia.

    As Fermoy looks up with tender veneration to its interesting neighbour, the ancient city of Lismore, so Cahir regards with affectionate reverence the old and famous ruins of Cashel, one of the holy spots of Ireland. We saw the hiU of Cashel rising out of the fdain at a distanoe, covered with the ruins of its old churches, and crowned with its round tower in a perfect state* of preservation. These rams are considered the most beautiful in Ireland.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Cahir sits beautifully on the shores of the river Suir. Long before you enter it, the proud spire of its Catholic church can be seen towering out of the plain, appearing to look down with what the writer called "haughty contempt" on the little steeple of the Protestant church beside it. In many parts of Ireland at this time, Catholic churches are beginning to tower above those of the establishment, as the English often call their church. All over the country, Irish Catholics are vying with English Protestants in the zeal with which they build new churches and repair old ones. The mania for church building in the United Kingdom surpasses anything the writer had seen out of Russia. The town regards with affectionate reverence the old and famous ruins of Cashel, one of the holy spots of Ireland. The hill of Cashel rises out of the plain, covered with the ruins of its old churches and crowned with its round tower in a perfect state of preservation. These ruins are considered the most beautiful in Ireland.

17. Contrast Between Leinster and Ulster Landscapes

    Dundalk · town · Louth · 1842–1844

    Kohl describes the miserable, wretched cabins and dirty, ragged inhabitants along the road from Drogheda towards Dundalk in County Louth, contrasting them sharply with the neat, thriving cottages seen after crossing into Ulster near Newry.

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    Drogheda and its environs are surrounded by a little range of hills, to which succeed wide plains, followed by another isolated range of hills near Newry and Dundalk. Then follows another plafh and then more hills, beyond Belfast. The first plain, between Drogheda and Bundalk, in the county of Lowth, presents but a dreary spectacle to the eye of the traveller. Lowth is the most northern county in the old kingdom of Leinster, and seems to have participated least of all in the English improvements introduced into that kingdom. Every thing looks so miserable, so truly Irish, the cabins of the peasantry are so wretched, the aspect of the cultivated land is so wild and dreary, and (he inhabitants so dirty and ragged, that only in the western part of Ireland had I seen any thing Hke them. The nearer one gets to the borders of Leinster the worse every thing seems to become. Dundalk itself, indeed, a clean and pretty little town of picturesque appearance, lypg on the shores of a small bay or inlet» forms an oasis in the wilderness, but the hills beyond Dundalk are as miserable-looking as any thing can well be, and reminded me of nothing so much as the »* hungry hills" of Kerry. The aspect of these barren uplands is in the highest <legree wild and desolate. Except the fine, straight road itself, scarcely a trace of human industry is to be seen ; for tUe wretched huts scattered here and there among the hills look more like swallows' nests than human habitations.

    As we drove down the hills, the coachman Stopped to set something to right about his harness, and I got down and went towards one Cf these uninviting abodes. An Irish tinker sat before one of the cabins, busied in patching an old potato-kettle. A large hole had been burnt in its side, which extended so far down, that the kettle could never have been half full. I asked the peasant-woman, who was watching ibe tinker at his work, bow long the kettl^ had

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    The road from Drogheda towards Dundalk runs through a plain in County Louth that presents but a dreary spectacle. Louth is the most northern county in the old kingdom of Leinster, and seems to have participated least of all in the English improvements introduced into that kingdom. Everything looks miserable. The cabins of the peasantry are wretched. The cultivated land is wild and dreary. The inhabitants are so dirty and ragged that Kohl had seen nothing like them except in the western part of Ireland. The nearer you get to the borders of Leinster the worse everything becomes. Dundalk itself forms an oasis in the wilderness, a clean and pretty little town of picturesque appearance lying on the shores of a small bay or inlet. But the hills beyond are as miserable-looking as anything can be. They reminded Kohl of what he called the hungry hills of Kerry. The aspect of these barren uplands is wild and desolate. Except the fine straight road itself, scarcely a trace of human industry is to be seen. The wretched huts scattered here and there among the hills look more like swallows' nests than human habitations. As the coach drove down the hills the coachman stopped to set something right about his harness, and Kohl got down and went towards one of these uninviting abodes. An Irish tinker sat before one of the cabins, busy patching an old potato-kettle. A large hole had been burnt in its side, extending so far down that the kettle could never have been half full. Kohl asked the peasant-woman, who was watching the tinker at his work, how long the kettle had been in that state.

18. Cove (Great Island): Harbour Forts and Lighthouse

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork

    On Great Island stood the port town of Cove, its houses rising in an amphitheatre up the shore. From the heights behind the town the harbour opened to the ocean between fortified peninsula points, with the lighthouse of St. Roche visible far out to sea.

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    Upon ih0 largeist; of ibe i^nds^ «ailed Groat Island, the piinoipal port of Cork, the well* knawB pove,i extend», io anr ampNtbatro of «lateHBolourod hotisee, up the risiag «hores o|f theislanid^ Wo landedr and climbed upio th^^' topof>th<)se sll^>re$f bebind tbe townf in order tO'look^over tho^wbele soeoe; We^were met OD rout way by half the popmiauon of Cove, who cams streamin^^olvo froW'^he ehisrchy and ai €VBr]jrji^p<woliadopp«rta»iitic8 rfadoiiFtng the 8|wmeiry of form and graeef«! app^aranee of tko; «pp^tCllMaes^i ao. th«y adrb catted,? of tfekia disfriet

    Ffoitt 4heifaMg)l«»«ehiB4«Cöv)e tbo^speotaler loakaupen tbedeepest^ and bfoadiesti pert of the; bajn; all studdeA'^Hb islaRd»^ Beforo-the w»** taiEof thetbay ioee themaelTes 4B^4be oeean, Ibey ; ntHfonf 4>et«een 'tile piojeisting points of^ ti«^ peainsuiafL Uiwa eaeb of these; poimo stanza fortves«, wfaicboiMi^iaaiids anil ■d^fendo;tbe narri Tei»^opei|ingof«ho<bavboitl^ Blefbinditlieso^Hes. tl^i vast; , heavungoxpaaao of the oeean» up^U' '^hitblitb&^8peoCatoif recpggises^' in^lhe shape of^ a few tiny, ibiadk isp^cids 'oo the bei;i«o»r slifp^ Hearing .the lighflbeise^ of ^t?. Roehe^ tiio first/ paetiafitb60orti hBrbourvdesoried byappripae^';: inqgyHseielaL' OB>€]e^liiglito,itijs.saidi t)«at,tb«i; ligbl/eao^raeei^ i^Kienty-fivo miieaf of alt sea^

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Cobh, this was once called Cove, the well-known principal port of Cork, on Great Island. Its slate-coloured houses rose in an amphitheatre up the rising shores. From the heights behind the town the whole scene opened. The deepest and broadest part of the bay lay spread below, studded with islands. Before the waters met the ocean they passed between the projecting points of the peninsula, and on each of those points stood a fortress, commanding and defending the narrow entrance. Beyond them lay the vast heaving expanse of the ocean. Far out, the first land an approaching vessel would descry was the lighthouse of St. Roche, a tiny speck on the horizon. It was said that its light covered 25 miles of sea. When visitors once climbed these heights, half the population of Cove came streaming from the church to join them, admiring the graceful spectacle of the district.

19. Fair Day Trading Customs at Edgeworthtown

    Edgeworthstown · town · Longford

    A small fair held near Edgeworthtown allowed the author to observe Irish market vendors, including a mobile booth selling knives and small goods with an auction-like noisy sales style.

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    While I was in the vicinity of Edgeworthtown, a little fair was held there, and afforded m«^ an opportunity of observing the manners of the Irish matket-peuple in the disposal of theiz wares. Some of them — those who deal in fruit, and various kinds of eatables— did as they would have done in most countries, that is to say, they sat by the;$ide of their wares, and waited till customers presented themselves ,• but tboee who dealt in knives, scissors, and an endless variety of small articles, were more noisy and numnteiankisk than I had ever before seen them out of Great Britain. Some of them had arranged their goods on a moveable booth that went upon wheels. One side of this iravellfng repository formed a kind of stage on which the merchant made his appearance, and presented various article^to the public, tu whom, in the style of an Italian vendor of medicines, ne recommended his goods with surprising volubility, accompanied by jokes that were not always without wit. He would name the price of an article. The spectators laughed, and offered hita. perhaps a few pence. Others offered perhaps a trifle more, and so went on, till the merchant was satisfied, or till, despairing of an acceptable offer, be put the article by and produced another. SKnilar scenes are ccmstandy seen at the English fiurs likewise, and even ia London there are shops in which perpetual auctions are going on, a crowd of spectators being kept all day long around the place, which maybe considered half in the light of a shop, and half In that of a, playhouse. 1 saw no gipsies at the fair, and was assured there were none in Ireland. In all the books on Ireland that have come into my hands, I have in vain sought a confirmation of this assertion, vet books ought to tell us what we must not look for in a country as well as what we may expect to see there. It would he strange if the gipsy race, which has found its way into every country of Europe, had avoided Ireland, and ^et several Irishmen have assured me the fact is so; and as Ireland boasts of so many peculiarities, has neither toads nor snakes, nor many other animals that are niet with everywhere else, one is disposed d priori to believe the assertion. It may be that parties of gipsies crossed over to Ireland at times, bnx finding there a race almost as barbarous and wretched as themselves, they returned and did not multiply in the land. The Romans also never went over into Ireland, even when they held possession of almost eveiT other country in the known world. Another fact almost equally remarkable, is the total absence of Jews from Ireland. At least, there does not now exist a Jewish synagogue ia the whole island; not ^even in Dublin, a city of 270,000 inhabitants. Some Jews, it is true, came over- with Cromwell, and in 1746 there were forty families of that nation in Dublin, where

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    Edgeworthstown is a town the road passes through. A small fair was held in the vicinity, and it gave the author a chance to watch how Irish market people sold their wares. Those who dealt in fruit and eatables sat quietly beside their goods and waited for customers, as they would in most countries. But the sellers of knives, scissors, and all manner of small articles were louder than the author had seen such vendors outside Great Britain. Some had arranged their goods on a moveable booth that went upon wheels. One side of this travelling repository formed a kind of stage on which the merchant appeared and presented his goods to the crowd. In the style of an Italian medicine vendor, he recommended his wares with surprising volubility and jokes that were not always without wit. He would name a price. The spectators laughed and offered him a few pence. Others offered a trifle more, and so it went on until the merchant was satisfied, or until, despairing of an acceptable offer, he put the article by and produced another. Similar scenes could be seen at English fairs, and even in London shops where perpetual auctions kept a crowd all day, half shop and half playhouse. The author saw no gipsies at the fair, and was assured there were none in Ireland. He searched his books for confirmation and found none, yet several Irishmen insisted it was so. Ireland has neither toads nor snakes. The Romans, too, never crossed into Ireland, even when they held almost every other country in the known world. And there was no Jewish synagogue in the whole island, not even in Dublin, a city of 270,000 inhabitants. Some Jews came over with Cromwell, and in 1746 there were 40 families of that nation in Dublin.

20. Fairy gathering ground near Edenvale

    Edenvale · townland · Clare

    A rocky hilltop near Edenvale with a patch of greensward about two hundred paces around was pointed out to the author as a spot sacred to the fairies, where locals claimed to have seen them and one man broke his finger after being led astray by them.

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    I had heard of a place in the neighbourhood that was looked on as a gathering ground of the fairies, and prevailed on some of the people to show me the way there. On the summit of a rocky hill we found a piece of greeniswaid about two hundred paces in circomferetice. This, I was told, was the spot sacred to the good people. « And^have y<^u ever seen the fairies With your own eyes 1" asked I. " Whole swarms of them, your honour, and many a time too,." they answered in chorns. "For my part," observed one, " I haVe al^i^ays takeii toleriatite care to avoid them, bat once they played the an ugly trick for all that. They led me idtd an out-dTthe-way place, where I lost myself, and stulabled over a thing that looked like the root of an old tree, and by the same token I broke my Ut-

    1E£LANI>.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Edenvale, there is a rocky hilltop with a patch of greensward about two hundred paces around. The author of one old travel book was brought to this spot and told it was sacred to the good people. He asked if they had ever seen the fairies with their own eyes. They answered in chorus, "Whole swarms of them, your honour, and many a time too." One man said he had always taken tolerable care to avoid them, but once they played him an ugly trick for all that. They led him into an out-of-the-way place, where he lost himself, and stumbled over a thing that looked like the root of an old tree, and by the same token he broke his finger.

21. Irish fever increasingly severe and prolonged at Belfast

    near Belfast · city · Antrim · 1818–1836

    Before 1818 an epidemic fever never lasted longer than eight months at Belfast, but by 1836 one continued for more than a twelvemonth, the longest duration ever known there, mainly affecting the poor due to scanty nourishment and poverty.

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    1 he Irish lever seems also tu increase in se- -verity and ubsimaoy. Before the year 1818 an epidemic infectious fe?er never lasted lunger than eight months at Beiiast ; in the year 1818, there wa» one that lasted ten months ; and in the year 1836, there was one that continued more than a twelvemonth, the longest duration for the iev«r ever kaown at Belfast. This (ener is almuet eniireiy conftned to the poorer classes, and ia maifily attributable to their scaaiy noarishjueat and poverty oi life. Every wet year, which iDjufes the harvest, inercaees also the prevalence of fever. When tlie wealthy are attacked fey It, whieh seldoia happens, it is oflener fatal ti>'them tlum to the poor. Certam localities of JtelfiMft, as of Manchester and Glasgow, suffer ttoat from fever. It fs a remarkable fact, that »o fariatioB of seasea seems to have any effect «poff :the fever, which is equaHy prevalent, and «eeuaMy severe aU the year round. I saw a table 'of the oaHings porstfed by the patients be^ lure entering the hospital, Which was interesting as conveying some idea what were the oeeupations most exposed, and what least liable to fever. To be thoroughly useful, however, this table should have beea accompanied by aa- «ther, showing the proportions of these different occupations, to the entire popoUtion of Belfast. Among 2066 patients, 740, that is ibore than a ihird, were of the mauufacturing daas ; namely, millworkers and weavers. In 4he whole list there were only six bleachers, although there «m be no doubt that the proportion of bleachers to the popuhiUon is far greater than this. More than a tiflh of the patients were of che class of servants. It is a singular circumstance ttiat .women aeem to be oltener 4ittacked by lever than men. In almost eveiy year's hospital list, the female exceed the maje jpatiems by ten or twenty per cent. Yet tlie iever «annot be so tatal to the former as to tbe Jtttter, sinoe all the tables show that ten or Swtfttty per cent. BMuemen than women die of Mie lever, i^rhaps this may be because the men, «*pott wfauaet^xeruons the very existence of lUeir families olWn depends, are not so soon MMU.to the hospital. It also appears that the lever seldom attacks the aged, twt that when it ( so, it fs usually fatal.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 76

    As the companion tells it

    Belfast saw fever grow more severe and stubborn over the years. Before 1818 an epidemic fever at Belfast never lasted longer than eight months. In 1818 one lasted ten months. And in 1836 one continued for more than a twelvemonth, the longest duration for fever ever known at Belfast. The fever was almost entirely confined to the poorer classes, mainly attributable to their scanty nourishment and poverty of life. Every wet year that injured the harvest increased also the prevalence of fever. When the wealthy were attacked by it, which seldom happened, it was oftener fatal to them than to the poor. Certain localities of Belfast, as of Manchester and Glasgow, suffered most from fever. No variation of season seemed to have any effect upon it. It was equally prevalent and equally severe all the year round. A table showed the occupations pursued by the patients before entering the hospital. Among 2066 patients, 740, more than a third, were of the manufacturing class, namely millworkers and weavers. In the whole list there were only 6 bleachers, though the proportion of bleachers to the population was far greater than this. More than a fifth of the patients were servants. Women were oftener attacked by fever than men. In almost every year's hospital list, the female exceeded the male patients by 10 or 20 per cent. Yet the fever was not so fatal to women as to men. All the tables showed that 10 or 20 per cent more men than women died of it. Perhaps this was because the men, on whom the very existence of their families often depended, were not so soon sent to the hospital. The fever seldom attacked the aged, but when it did, it was usually fatal.

22. Killarney Town: A Recently Rebuilt Resort

    Killarney · townland · Kerry · 1810–1844

    The town of Killarney is described as neatly built and largely new, most of it being only about thirty years old, having formerly been a wretched place before its transformation to serve tourists visiting the lakes.

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    The town of Kiltarney, like Tralee and most of the other little towns cdf thesouth of Ireland, is pieuUy built, and has an air of novelty, the greater part of it being, in. fact, little more than thirty years old. Before that time it is said to have been a wretched place. It boasts many exeel lent inns, where ibr "money and fair words," one may get all possible accommodation for ▼iewing the lakes and tj^^e surroundiug country. I arrived there exactly at breakfast time, and joined company with an jßnglisb officer, who was also about to visit the lakes, paving obtained leave of absence irom his quarters — some^ where on the Shannon — for the express purpose of seeing the Paradise oi Killamev.

    The lakes lie in a crescent around the foot of the highest group of mountains in Kerry, called Macgilli cuddy's Reeks, and are divided into two

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Killarney. Like Tralee and most of the other little towns of the south of Ireland, it is neatly built, and has an air of novelty. The greater part of it is little more than thirty years old. Before that time it is said to have been a wretched place. It boasts many excellent inns, where, for "money and fair words," one may get all possible accommodation for viewing the lakes and the surrounding country. The traveller arrived there exactly at breakfast time, and joined company with an English officer, who was also about to visit the lakes, having obtained leave of absence from his quarters somewhere on the Shannon for the express purpose of seeing the Paradise of Killarney. The lakes lie in a crescent around the foot of the highest group of mountains in Kerry, called Macgillycuddy's Reeks, and are divided into two.

23. Netterville family monuments in an ivy-covered churchyard

    Dowth · townland · Meath

    Near Dowth, on Netterville family lands, stand the ruins of an old church overgrown with ivy, containing family monuments including a white marble monument to one of the Nettervilles, set against the green ivy and grey walls.

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    winding along between the;p, and towards the west over Slane, where in foriper times existed a famous college, whose ruips are still standing. JJot far irom Dowth, upon the lands of ^be NetterviUe femily, stand also ihe ruins qran old ehos^, overgrown, as usual, with ivy» within th^ ciroait of whose rooile^ walls stand yet tiie nionuneDts of many families, whp aA^ death **were brought home to iheir peoplfj," as tije irish say. Among others was a wtiite marb)e Monameat of one of the Ifettervilles. vhi^ laoked highly pletayesque against ^i^e green ivy ted.the gi«ay M walls. ' I dannot cpnceiye how ihe EbgHsU can go to P^re la Chaise, fi^nd a^}- flsirethe tasteless and prosaic monuments there, liflK^'ä visit to a fbw of the old ^rish cHurpbyartts, would afford theoji, in the grea[test at)un- 4aiioe, venerable and ptcturesuue tombsj and ae^es of the highest interest. We have inainy «dteotions of views of "English misinsionsV' why have not a few English painters and wri-* tscg combined to give i^e wdrld an illustrated work on "The OW Churchyards of Ireland!*' The painter indeed ought to be a Rnysdael, whose ^^ehurohyard,'» in the Dresden gallery, jaaOk rssembles, in beauty and poetry^ an Irish iShärehyard ; and thtf writer ougbt at least to luB.a Mbors or Byron, who should know how to aiunate by the power of a poetical imagination, Mil the »sthetie and the historical part of his

    attix^BniU^ the Monastery of Baite or Bq«ti«B, J9iwes Its prigin to i i^moqs abbot w bishqp pf that name» a puj^il of St. Patrick, whis liv^ toward^ the end ^ the fifth 'Sentagr. Many anciei^t at^ts of this mosastery distingiiHibod themselves in varioufi w40^St w4 ijeadered (Mr QSmea fapf^tus in Irish ^story; the niKist relebrated otthps^ i^aa JPlsnp, whp dis«! i»Mi«yaar ,105$. He IS t^e ^ great «oarps ar piüglaBi .authority inmatj«rs<>if Insh histoi7i R<iB(nW'«iid 4pquience; ap4 t,N ^rajAiM<fnal haUsda (^ Mie p^oj^ t^HS ffiff,^ tpihim;

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 63

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dowth, on the Netterville family lands, stand the ruins of an old church, overgrown with ivy. Within the circuit of its ruined walls stand the monuments of many families, who as death came were, as the Irish say, "brought home to their people." Among them was a white marble monument to one of the Nettervilles, which looked highly picturesque against the green ivy and the grey walls. The writer who saw it could not conceive how the English can go to Père Lachaise and admire the tasteless and prosaic monuments there. A visit to a few of the old Irish churchyards would afford them, in the greatest abundance, venerable and picturesque tombs and scenes of the highest interest. There are many collections of views of English missions, he writes, and he wondered why a few English painters and writers had not combined to give the world an illustrated work on "The Old Churchyards of Ireland." The painter ought to be a Ruysdael, whose churchyard in the Dresden gallery resembles, in beauty and poetry, an Irish churchyard. The writer ought at least to be a Moore or Byron, who should know how to animate by the power of a poetical imagination both the aesthetic and the historical part of his subject.

24. Sea-sand improves the soil near Glengariff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    Farmers around Glengariff use sea-sand, especially the 'coral sand' from Bantry Bay composed of broken shells and chalk, mixed with cold clay and acrid bog earth to make land cultivable.

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    we come to another celebrated little Paradise— the mouDtainoas district of Glengariff. Here we meet with iimumeiable cars laden with sea-sand i*roceediQg mto the interior. It is found very useful to mix with the cold day and the acrid bog earth) as the Irish say, ''the sea-sand cuts np the clay," and without it much of the land BOW under cultivation would be entirely useless. The fine new roads make the transport of this article much easier than it was formerly, and contribute, therefore, not a little to the improvement of the agriculture of the country. The sand from Bantrv Bay, called ^ coral sand," is thought especially advantageous. It consists, in a great measure, of broken shells and chalk.

    The valleys of Glengariff are richly wooded and sprinkled with many pretty country houses, and the bay on which the village lies is as full of islands as the lakes of Killarney.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the mountainous district of Glengariff, described as a celebrated little paradise. You would have met numberless cars laden with sea-sand proceeding into the interior. The sand is found useful mixed with the cold clay and the acrid bog earth. As the Irish say, the sea-sand cuts up the clay, and without it much of the land now under cultivation would be entirely useless. The fine new roads make the transport of this article easier than it was formerly, and contribute not a little to the improvement of the agriculture. The sand from Bantry Bay, called coral sand, is thought especially advantageous. It consists in a great measure of broken shells and chalk. The valleys of Glengariff are richly wooded and sprinkled with many pretty country houses, and the bay on which the village lies is as full of islands as the lakes of Killarney.

25. The Gobbins of Island Magee, a gigantic basalt colonnade

    near Island Magee · parish · Antrim

    Kohl describes the peninsula of Magee near Larne, formed of volcanic basalt, with pillars ranged along its eastern coast for four or five miles called 'the Gobbins.' He considers this formation a far more truly gigantic natural work than the Giant's Causeway itself, though less famous due to its vegetation cover.

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    Such was the coast, and such the road, along which our car drove away through the storm, with its* mail-bags and other contents. Near Lame the little peninsula, Magee, a volcanic formation of basalt, bends round the entrance of the Lou^h. Along the whole eastern coast of thif; peninsula rise pillars of basalt ranged in regular succession for four or five miles. Thete columns are called " the Gobblns/* and this bftsaltk; peninsula, which is a mile and a half wide, and six or seven miles long, is, in my opinion, a far more really gigantic work than the Giant's Causeway itself. The latter is, in fact, a mere toy compared to it; but because the surface of the peninsula is covered with vegetation, and the pavement of the basaltic columns is thus concealed, the far less colossal'structure has acquired the greater fame.

    The point next in interest is the precipice of Ballygally Head, which advances boldly and majestically into the sea, and is composed of an immense number of irregular basaltic masses. The road winds round the foot of this precipice, and as we still kept close to the edge of the seashoriB. tbe stormy heaving of the white-crestec billows, and the furious working of the tempest.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    Near Larne, the peninsula of Island Magee bends round the entrance of the lough. It is a volcanic formation of basalt, a mile and a half wide and six or seven miles long. Along the whole eastern coast of this peninsula, pillars of basalt rise in regular succession for four or five miles. These columns are called the Gobbins. Kohl, who travelled this coast and wrote about it, considered this basaltic peninsula a far more really gigantic work than the Giant's Causeway itself. The Giant's Causeway is, in his words, "a mere toy compared to it." But because the surface of the peninsula is covered with vegetation, and the pavement of the basaltic columns is thus concealed, the far less colossal structure has acquired the greater fame. He drove along this coast through a storm, with mail-bags and other contents in the car. The point next in interest was the precipice of Ballygally Head, which advances boldly and majestically into the sea, composed of an immense number of irregular basaltic masses. The road winds round the foot of this precipice, close to the edge of the seashore, with the stormy heaving of white-crested billows and the furious working of the tempest.

26. Waterford founded by the Danes and retained longest by them

    Waterford · city · Waterford

    Waterford and Wexford are described as cities founded by the Danes and held by them longer than any other part of Ireland, which accounts for their Saxon-derived names.

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    Waterfbrd and Wexford are cities founded by the Danes, and were retained by them longer than any other part of the country. Hence their Saxon names. Irish geography is full of these Saxon names, received either from the Danee or the English. Nor are these foreign denominations confined to towns, or to the works of human hands. We have the Blackwater River, the Hungry Hills, near Bantry ; the Kasper Mountain, near Limerick ; and many others. The islands and promontories bear mostly Eng^ lish nam^ ; but many of these are, in reality, mere corruptions of the original Celtic, and, elfter all, the Celtic names are those whieh every- • where prevail, even within that part of the country which long constituted what was termed the English pale. The names of English origin are generally known by the terminations ford, town» borough, dec. Those of Celtic origin may be known by the syllables Bally, Dun, Rath, Gleo, Kil, Ennis, dec.

    Bally means a town, and occucs in Ballyoasloe, Ballyporeen, Ballyshannon, Baiiymahon» and others.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    This is Waterford, a city the road passes through or near. Waterford and Wexford were founded by the Danes, and the Danes held them longer than any other part of Ireland. That is why both cities carry Saxon names. Irish geography is full of such Saxon names, received either from the Danes or the English. Nor are these foreign names confined to towns or the works of human hands. There is the Blackwater River, the Hungry Hills near Bantry, the Kasper Mountain near Limerick, and many others. The islands and promontories bear mostly English names, but many of these are mere corruptions of the original Celtic. After all, the Celtic names are those which everywhere prevail, even within that part of the country which long constituted what was termed the English pale. Names of English origin are generally known by the terminations ford, town, borough. Those of Celtic origin may be known by the syllables Bally, Dun, Rath, Glen, Kil, Ennis. Bally means a town, and occurs in Ballygalloe, Ballyporeen, Ballyshannon, Ballymahon, and others.

27. Carrickfergus as one of the most ancient Irish cities

    Carrickfergus · townland · Antrim

    Lough Belfast is sometimes called Lough Carrickfergus, after the old Irish city of that name, described as one of the most ancient in Ireland, flourishing long before any Englishman set foot on Irish soil.

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    Our course first led tis round Longh -Belfilst. The Irish give the name of Lough, not only to* hiland lakes, but to ealis or inlets of the sea,, such as Longh Belfitst, Lough Strangfoad, . Lough Swilly. and others. Lough Belfast is sometimes called Lough Carrickfeigos, after the old Irish city of that name, which is one of the most ancient in Ireland, and flourished lonr before an Englishman had- ever set foot on Irish soil. On the whole way ih>m Belfast to Carn'ckfergus, the road is bordered by lines of coon* try-seats and gardens: but the gloomy and tern- • pestuous weather did not lend that embellishmeat to the petty beauty of these, human creartiOD«, that it did to the wild works of the giants^ towhteh we were hastening; indeed, as the hail generally obliged us to keep our eves shut, we may be said to have derived no pleasure from the sight of all the flower-beds, shubberies, cot-' tages, and parks, which the speculative industry of Belfast capitalists had so ingeniously spun from the flax of Ulster.

    Near Carrickfergus, close to the brink of the ocean, stands a large old castle, which is stilt kept fortified, and is garrisoned by two companies of soldiers. The situation is very picturesque, and the view over the coa.<«t, the town of Bangor, the Bellhst Lough, and the dreary waste - of wafers beyond, must be most beamiful, in^ weather permitting Its enjoyment. The waHs^ of the castle are at the same time clothed in^. fresh green ivy, and washed by the white foav of the waves, as they break at Its feet. At this ca.stle William HI. landed, before he fought the battle of the Boyne. Here the French endeavoured to land to lend assistance to the Irish labels, when It was too late. Belfast Lough is Iftdeed the principal landing-place for the whhlenorth of Ireland.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 77

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrickfergus, the waters you may have glimpsed are sometimes called Lough Carrickfergus, though they are more commonly known as Lough Belfast. The Irish give the name of Lough not only to inland lakes but to arms or inlets of the sea, such as Lough Belfast, Lough Strangford, and Lough Swilly. The old city of Carrickfergus, from which the lough takes its name, is described as one of the most ancient in Ireland, and flourished long before an Englishman had ever set foot on Irish soil. On the whole way from Belfast to Carrickfergus, the road is bordered by lines of country-seats and gardens. The travellers who recorded this journey passed through in gloomy and tempestuous weather, with hail that obliged them to keep their eyes shut, so that they derived no pleasure from the sight of all the flower-beds, shrubberies, cottages, and parks which the speculative industry of Belfast capitalists had created from the flax of Ulster. Near Carrickfergus, close to the brink of the ocean, stands a large old castle, still kept fortified and garrisoned by two companies of soldiers. The walls are clothed in fresh green ivy and washed by the white foam of the waves as they break at its feet. The view over the coast, the town of Bangor, Belfast Lough, and the dreary waste of waters beyond must be beautiful in weather permitting its enjoyment. At this castle William III landed before he fought the battle of the Boyne. Here the French endeavoured to land to lend assistance to the Irish, when it was too late. Belfast Lough is the principal landing-place for the whole north of Ireland.

28. Balbriggan's cotton mill and famous stockings

    Balbriggan · town · Dublin

    Balbriggan was the first place in Ireland where Kohl saw a large cotton mill, and Balbriggan stockings were noted to have a reputation even in England, marking the start of the north-eastern manufacturing district.

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    A little farther on we passed another ruin, the old castle of Balruddery* But. Immediately beyond Balruddery, at Balbriggan, my eyes rested on a spectacle quite new to me in Ireland — namely, a large manufactory. Balbriggan was the first place in Ireland in which I beheld a large cotton-mUT, and Balbriggan stock-

    BO

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 59

    As the companion tells it

    Balbriggan was the first place in Ireland where the traveller Kohl beheld a large cotton mill. Until then, he had seen nothing of the kind in the country. Balbriggan stockings carried a reputation that reached even into England, and the town marked the beginning of the north-eastern manufacturing district.

29. Copper mines pollute Avonmore, banish salmon

    near Avonmore River · river · Wicklow

    Near Rathdrum in the vale of Avonmore, copper mines threatened destruction to the beautiful trees, and sulphur-impregnated water thrown up from the works caused salmon to abandon the river, either turning back or dying on the banks.

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    Not far from Rathdrum, in the vale of Avonmore, are some copper mines that threaten de- Btruction to the beautiful trees. The motto aays, indeed, utile cum dulci^ but unfortunately we oflen find the utile and the duici engaged in an irreconcilable feud. Even the salmon, that formerly abounded in the Avonmore, have been

    banished by these copper mines. The watery impregnated with sulpha r, thro^ up from the copper works, is the cause of this. When the salmon enter the Avomuore now, they either turn about again immediately, or jump upon the bank and "die dead." This is another of the many pleonasms that I have heard in Ireland, and that so frequently, that I am tempted to believe there is something nationally chardcteristic about them. , i

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 46

    As the companion tells it

    You are passing through the vale of Avonmore, not far from Rathdrum, where copper mines once threatened the beautiful trees. The works threw up water impregnated with sulphur, and it poisoned the river. Salmon had formerly abounded here, but when they entered the Avonmore after that, they would either turn back immediately or jump onto the bank and, as a local phrase put it, die dead.

30. Ross Castle ruins on the Killarney lake shore

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    The ruins of Ross Castle lie near Killarney on the shore of the lake, its ivy-covered walls offering a view of the lakes and islands, with a huge old hall-chimney indicating the great size of logs once burned there.

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    After rowing about fourteen miles, we landed at length by the ruins of Ross Castle, which He, sot far from Kiilamey, immediately on the shores of the lake, and from whose wall one «njoys a delightful prospect of the lakes and their islands. The ruined walls are overgrown with ivy, and the vast proportions of the old hall-chimney indicate the huge size of the logs that fonnerly held the place of coals at an Englishman's fireside.

    . FROM KILLARNEY TO BANTRY.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Ross Castle stands near Killarney, immediately on the shore of the lake. Its ruined walls are overgrown with ivy, and from them one enjoys a delightful prospect of the lakes and their islands. The vast proportions of the old hall-chimney indicate the huge size of the logs that formerly held the place of coals at an Englishman's fireside.

31. Ruins of Bunratty Castle and Quin Abbey

    Bunratty Castle · castle · Clare

    The travellers passed the ivy-covered ruins of Bunratty Castle, from which ravens flew up at their approach, and further on reached the celebrated ruins of Quin Abbey, cited as examples of Ireland's abundant ruins from a time of warring chiefs.

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    We passed close by the Ivy-mantled ruins of Bunratty Castle, whence whole swarms of ravens issued at our approach, and a little farther on we came to the celebrated Ctuin Abbey. " In short," said my travelling companion, *'you see we have no lack of ruins in Ireland. The country was divided among a number of chiefs, who dwelt in these castles, and made war on each other. In a word, it was in those days here jast as it is in your country at the present time. Murder and homicide were the order of the day even more than they are now, and the life of a Bobleroan was valued at forty shillings, and that of a peasant at six. That too is an old German law, I (ancy. But youVe no Milesian families io Qermany ; no, there's no people can boast of that but the Irish. And indeed it's somethihg very particular to he a member of such a family.

    Such a one may go forty days without food; at least that* s the received opiiiion among the people of Ireland. Faith, it you look yonder you may see a woman who, though of no royal «ace, would fast more than forty days for you any day you like. I sav" Qurnrng to the driver), *» ihat^ Worisheen, isnn it i"

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    This is Bunratty Castle, its ruins covered in ivy. When travellers once passed close by, whole swarms of ravens issued from the ruins at their approach. Nearby stood the celebrated ruins of Quin Abbey. A travelling companion of one such visitor remarked on the abundance of ruins in Ireland. "You see we have no lack of ruins in Ireland," he said. The country was divided among a number of chiefs, who dwelt in these castles and made war on each other. In a word, it was in those days just as it is in your country at the present time. Murder and homicide were the order of the day, even more than they are now. The life of a Bobleroan was valued at forty shillings, and that of a peasant at six. That too, he said, is an old German law. But there are no Milesian families in Germany; no, there is no people can boast of that but the Irish. And indeed it is something very particular to be a member of such a family. Such a one may go forty days without food, at least that is the received opinion among the people of Ireland. The companion then turned to the driver and asked whether that was Worishheen.

32. The great arbutus tree at Mount Kennedy park

    Mount Kennedy · site · Waterford

    At Mount Kennedy, the park of the Cunningham family, the author saw the largest arbutus tree in Ireland, whose main trunk had been cut down but from whose root twenty-five large branches had sprung, with a circumference of eighty-three paces.

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    wilder path on the other side of the river, hot; was told that Mr. S , to whom that bf»*-» of the valley belonged, allowed no one to pass along that road on a Sunday. The DeviPs Glen, on the whole, afforded me much less enjoymec* than the park of the Cunningham family at Mount Kennedy. The situation and soil of this park are particularly favourable to the growth of evergreens, and here, amicf an inconceivable profusion of laurels and hollies, I beheld, on a^ meadow, the largest arbutus in Ireland. The main trunk, or the ** master tree," as the gardener expressed himself, had been cut down, , for what reason I have forgotten ; but no lesa than twenty-five large branches had sprung np on all sides from the root, I walked round the extreme points of the branches, and found the circumference to be eighty-three paces. Another colossal arbutus, of about the same size, existed a few years ago at Rogerstown, near Dublin, but was blown down by a storm in 1839. The old and massive trees which we now admire so much were planted for us in a remote antiquity. Daily their number is lessened by the blast of the hurricane, ^r the more destructive, hand of man A re we planting trees.that will he equaHjr Tenerable to our posterity, some five or six centuries hence 1 or are these vegetable Methusalems to be altogether eradicated from our globe t.

    Cypresses a^ were growing here in the open air, in fifty-three degrees north latitude. Indeed there cannot be a doubt that Ireland is. the most northerly country in which the cypress will grow. Of rose-trees in full bearing at this advanced season I make no rpention, for I fbund them In the farthest north of Ireland, and sometimes high «nou|;h to ovt;rshadow the roof of a cottage.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    A great arbutus tree, Mount Kennedy park, in the grounds of the Cunningham family at Mount Kennedy, Waterford. The situation and soil of this park are particularly favourable to the growth of evergreens, and amid an inconceivable profusion of laurels and hollies, the author beheld, on a meadow, the largest arbutus in Ireland. The main trunk, or the "master tree," as the gardener expressed himself, had been cut down, for what reason the author had forgotten. But no less than 25 large branches had sprung up on all sides from the root. The author walked round the extreme points of the branches, and found the circumference to be 83 paces. Another colossal arbutus, of about the same size, existed a few years ago at Rogerstown, near Dublin, but was blown down by a storm in 1839. The old and massive trees which we now admire so much were planted for us in a remote antiquity. Daily their number is lessened by the blast of the hurricane, or the more destructive hand of man. The author asks whether we are planting trees that will be equally venerable to our posterity, some five or six centuries hence, or whether these vegetable Methusalems are to be altogether eradicated from our globe. Cypresses were growing in the open air, in 53 degrees north latitude. Indeed there cannot be a doubt that Ireland is the most northerly country in which the cypress will grow. Of rose-trees in full bearing at this advanced season the author makes no mention, having found them in the farthest north of Ireland, and sometimes high enough to overshadow the roof of a cottage.

33. The Murphys and the crown of the Munster kings

    Enniscorthy · townland · Wexford

    Near Enniscorthy, at the chateau of a gentleman named Murphy, a crown is preserved which his ancestors are said to have worn as kings of Munster, a relic of ancient Irish royal lineage.

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    The name that prevAUs in and tbout Enniscortby is Murphy, and at the cbftteau of one jg^tlemdn of this name, the crown is sttlipre- 36rted, which his anc^tors are said to hare ^iwm as kings ü( Munster. How mirty are the rttsty; tlusty ctovhis «till ^prefeerved in diHTbrent pÄtts of Europe! and of tnany the present posfkessors stäl cherish the hope thkt a day w^l come when they may burnish ^p theh* hahblto

    'tigain.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    The name that prevails in and about Enniscorthy is Murphy. Somewhere around here, at the chateau of a gentleman of this name, a crown is preserved which his ancestors are said to have worn as kings of Munster. "How many are the rusty crowns still preserved in different parts of Europe," the writer adds, and many present possessors still cherish the hope that a day will come when they may burnish up their habiliments again.

34. Turf Cutting from the Bog of Allen Without Renewal

    near Bog of Allen · bog · Kildare

    Crossing the Bog of Allen near Athlone, the author describes how turf is cut away without provision for regeneration, unlike in Germany, leading many villages to face a dwindling supply of fuel.

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    DnbUfi; for though in some wealthy houses & the seacoast towns, coals are buined, yet the majority of the population everywhere bum nothing but turf, which may be obtained more easily from the siuface of the ground than can the coa» from their deep and laborious piines. When their supply of turf has been exhausted, the Irish wiil pay more attention to their coal-fields, the real extent of which is still unknown to them. Before that time comes some centuries must pass away, but there are parts of Ireland where turf is b^mning to grow scarce. In the north of Germany, wbere we have also many turf bogs, the people provide for the reproduction of the turf. ' They leave square holes, in which the water collects. The marsh-plants accumulate in those reservoirs, and at the end of thirty or forty years turf ma jr again be cut Irom th^ same place, and thus a piece of turf-land is n\ade to afford an inexhaustible supply of fuel to its owners. In Ireland nothing of the kind is thought of. The turf is cut away wherever Nature haadeposited the trea^sore,ana none seems to trouble himself abom the renewal of the supply. I'he oonseouenee is that many villages are mourning over their dwindling stock of turf, and can aK most calculate the day on which they will have consumed their last sod.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Bog of Allen, the ground holds a story of what is taken and not returned. Most of the people here burn nothing but turf. It is easier to cut from the surface of the ground than to dig coal from deep mines. In the wealthy houses and the seacoast towns they burn coal, but the majority everywhere burn turf. The author says that when the turf is exhausted, the Irish will turn to their coal-fields, the real extent of which is still unknown to them. Some centuries must pass before that time comes, but already there are parts of Ireland where turf is growing scarce. In the north of Germany, where there are also many turf bogs, the people provide for the reproduction of the turf. They leave square holes in which the water collects. The marsh-plants accumulate in those reservoirs, and at the end of 30 or 40 years turf may again be cut from the same place, so a piece of turf-land is made to afford an inexhaustible supply of fuel to its owners. In Ireland nothing of the kind is thought of. The turf is cut away wherever Nature deposited the treasure, and no one seems to trouble himself about the renewal of the supply. The consequence is that many villages are mourning over their dwindling stock of turf, and can almost calculate the day on which they will have consumed their last sod.

35. Manufacturing workers and servants most afflicted by Belfast fever

    near Belfast · city · Antrim

    Among 2066 fever patients at Belfast, more than a third were mill-workers and weavers and more than a fifth were servants, with women oftener attacked by fever than men though men died at a higher rate.

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    1 he Irish lever seems also tu increase in se- -verity and ubsimaoy. Before the year 1818 an epidemic infectious fe?er never lasted lunger than eight months at Beiiast ; in the year 1818, there wa» one that lasted ten months ; and in the year 1836, there was one that continued more than a twelvemonth, the longest duration for the iev«r ever kaown at Belfast. This (ener is almuet eniireiy conftned to the poorer classes, and ia maifily attributable to their scaaiy noarishjueat and poverty oi life. Every wet year, which iDjufes the harvest, inercaees also the prevalence of fever. When tlie wealthy are attacked fey It, whieh seldoia happens, it is oflener fatal ti>'them tlum to the poor. Certam localities of JtelfiMft, as of Manchester and Glasgow, suffer ttoat from fever. It fs a remarkable fact, that »o fariatioB of seasea seems to have any effect «poff :the fever, which is equaHy prevalent, and «eeuaMy severe aU the year round. I saw a table 'of the oaHings porstfed by the patients be^ lure entering the hospital, Which was interesting as conveying some idea what were the oeeupations most exposed, and what least liable to fever. To be thoroughly useful, however, this table should have beea accompanied by aa- «ther, showing the proportions of these different occupations, to the entire popoUtion of Belfast. Among 2066 patients, 740, that is ibore than a ihird, were of the mauufacturing daas ; namely, millworkers and weavers. In 4he whole list there were only six bleachers, although there «m be no doubt that the proportion of bleachers to the popuhiUon is far greater than this. More than a tiflh of the patients were of che class of servants. It is a singular circumstance ttiat .women aeem to be oltener 4ittacked by lever than men. In almost eveiy year's hospital list, the female exceed the maje jpatiems by ten or twenty per cent. Yet tlie iever «annot be so tatal to the former as to tbe Jtttter, sinoe all the tables show that ten or Swtfttty per cent. BMuemen than women die of Mie lever, i^rhaps this may be because the men, «*pott wfauaet^xeruons the very existence of lUeir families olWn depends, are not so soon MMU.to the hospital. It also appears that the lever seldom attacks the aged, twt that when it ( so, it fs usually fatal.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 76

    As the companion tells it

    Belfast, in Antrim, was a place where fever grew worse and more stubborn over the years. Before 1818, an epidemic infectious fever never lasted longer than eight months here. In 1818, one lasted ten months. In 1836, one continued more than a twelvemonth, the longest ever known at Belfast. The fever was almost entirely confined to the poorer classes, attributable to their scanty nourishment and poverty of life. Every wet year that injured the harvest also increased the prevalence of fever. When the wealthy were attacked, which seldom happened, it was often fatal to them. No variation of season seemed to have any effect. The fever was equally prevalent and equally severe all the year round. A table showed the callings pursued by patients before entering the hospital. Among 2066 patients, 740, more than a third, were of the manufacturing class, namely millworkers and weavers. In the whole list there were only 6 bleachers. More than a fifth of the patients were servants. It is a singular circumstance that women seem to be oftener attacked by fever than men. In almost every year's hospital list, the female exceeded the male patients by 10 or 20 per cent. Yet the fever was not so fatal to women as to men, since all the tables showed that 10 or 20 per cent more men than women died of the fever. Perhaps this was because the men, on whom the very existence of their families often depended, were not so soon sent to the hospital. The fever seldom attacked the aged, but when it did, it was usually fatal.

36. Fair Head named by Ptolemy as Rhobogdium Promontory

    near Benmore or Fair Head · promontory · Antrim

    Fair Head, or Benmore, is identified with the Rhobogdium Promontorium mentioned by the ancient geographer Ptolemy, proving the headland was known and celebrated even before the Christian period.

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    Benmore is mentioned by Ptolemy (it is his R&hogtUum Pramonforium), a proof that it was itftowo and even celebrated before tbe Christian period.

    From the lake we ascended gradually to the liigfaest point of the cape, by a very disagreea- ^ble path, in which one foot generally trod upon sharp, rocky points, while the other sunk in iKig. The fartlier we went, however, the less inconvenient it became, and near the brink of the precipice it waa quite fiat and dry. It was very curious when we reached this spot, to find tha( the wind, which had all along been very high, suddenly fell to a perfect caln^ but the ^explanation offered by my companion, seemed a very plausible way of accounting for tbe pbe- >nomenon. The wind, sweeping across the ooean» strikes on the perpendicnlar face of the rock, and ts broken and sent upward at a r^ht angle, so that tbe current becomes vertical s instead of horiaontal. About five or six hun- «dred'feet behind the face of the rock, the wind again fell to ita natural course along the sur face of the ground, and swept on as before, forming over the summit of the precipice a kiiMi of arcih, under which, exposed as was the poBition, we enjoyed a perfect calm.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 82

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Benmore or Fair Head, the ancient geographer Ptolemy named this headland Rhobogdium Promontorium, a sign that it was known and even celebrated before the Christian period. The writer came to it from a lake, ascending gradually to the highest point of the cape by a very disagreeable path. One foot generally trod upon sharp rocky points while the other sank in bog. The farther they went, however, the less inconvenient it became, and near the brink of the precipice it was quite flat and dry. The wind had been very high all along, but on reaching this spot it suddenly fell to a perfect calm. The writer's companion offered a plausible explanation. The wind, sweeping across the ocean, strikes on the perpendicular face of the rock and is broken and sent upward at a right angle, so that the current becomes vertical instead of horizontal. About five or six hundred feet behind the face of the rock, the wind again falls to its natural course along the surface of the ground and sweeps on as before, forming over the summit of the precipice a kind of arch, under which, exposed as the position was, they enjoyed a perfect calm.

37. Ruins of Dunkitt, a small Danish castle, near Waterford

    Dunkitt · townland · Kilkenny

    While walking the last miles into Waterford by by-paths, the narrator visited poor farmhouses and inspected the ruins of Dunkitt, a small Danish castle, noting blackberry bushes still in bloom between its walls late in the season.

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    gentleman of the party oflering to shovir me the way along some by-paths. We stopped to look at some workmen employed on a new road, visited a few poor farmhouses, and inspected the ruins of I]|unkit,*a small Danish castle, between whose walls some blackberry- bushes were still in bloom, at this advanced period of the seasoa. The climate of Ireland is noi calculated to accelerate either the unfolding of the blossom or the ripening of the fruit. The com grows so slowly that, though the summer seed may be put into the ground six week^ sooher than in those parts of the European continent that lie under the same latitude, yet the harvest is usually gathered in nearly six weeks later. In the north, we have countries where the life of Nature may be said to blaze up into flames for a few weeks in summer, and then to sink again into dust and ashes. In Ireland, Nature never bursts into a flame, nor ever becomes dust and ashes, but continues to glimmer away, all the year round, like a lighted sod of turf.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here are the ruins of Dunkitt, a small Danish castle near Waterford. A traveller once walked the last miles into Waterford by by-paths, a gentleman offering to show the way. They stopped to look at workmen on a new road, visited a few poor farmhouses, and inspected the ruins. Between its walls, blackberry bushes were still in bloom, at an advanced period of the season. The writer noted that Ireland's climate is not calculated to accelerate either the unfolding of the blossom or the ripening of the fruit. Corn grows so slowly that, though summer seed may be put into the ground six weeks sooner than in those parts of the European continent that lie under the same latitude, the harvest is usually gathered in nearly six weeks later. In the north, countries exist where Nature blazes into flames for a few weeks in summer, then sinks into dust and ashes. In Ireland, Nature never bursts into a flame, nor ever becomes dust and ashes, but continues to glimmer away, all the year round, like a lighted sod of turf.

38. Flintstone trade at Glenarm

    near Glenarm · village · Antrim

    The white chalky rocks of the coast contain flints arranged in horizontal strata, which local inhabitants dig out and sell as articles of commerce. At Glenarm, Kohl observed great heaps of flintstones ready for shipping.

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    The while chalky rocks of the co&st are Ml' of flints, which are not irregalartty scatiet^d^ through them, but are deposited in long hoiiJ-i zontal strata fh)m two to three feet tttfck; Thtt^' inhabitai)^ of the neighbouring coumt^ dig out these stones, and use them as articles of cpmi^^* merce. At Glenarm I saw great heap» of kifge^ and small flintstones^ ready for shipping. ' Not only do these limestone roetfs occasionally break u p into boulderstones ; the same< is the ease with - the black basalt massesf'which iie over them. Thus the whole coast; and all the little valleys' which run down towards it, aro sprinkled wifh great loose black and Ivhite atones, like the black' and ^hite heids of Jacob. , Thes^ black' and white stones are seen everywhere around. 1%^' road is macadawazed withbacic and white stonesf,' and the walls of the bojuses, gardens, and :<50iirt«'- yards are all built of blae^ and white «tones.

    After Balllßy-galley Head, w« reached other steep and preoipitodis rocks and clifis. calted the^ Sallagh-braes. Here the wh«te chalk founda-^- tion an<| tbe<b1ackfbaaaii deposit were plainly' enough< to be. diatinguished. One large mass df ^ basalt, had detached itself from theirest, and reapJ' ed its black' heiad from itte itraves near the toast " Knockdhu,? or theBla^k Rock, waa the name given it by the lirish. Farther out to sea. abpuc foqr miles fromland, lie other rocks called <* Th^ • Maidens." , . U poo two of them lighthobses havd , bejsn erected. Pjarth^ü out in the distance, the ■ nearest point of &<(xytlaiid is seen irearingits head above the waters. •■ It is the Mdll of Ahtib^ with' ita ne%hbour: island; of Sandä. - ' : ^

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    The white chalky rocks along this coast are full of flints. They are not scattered irregularly through the stone, but lie in long horizontal strata, two to three feet thick. The inhabitants of the neighboring country dig out these stones and sell them as articles of commerce. At Glenarm, the author saw great heaps of large and small flintstones, all ready for shipping. The limestone rocks here occasionally break up into boulderstones, and the same happens with the black basalt masses that lie over them. The whole coast, and all the little valleys running down towards it, are sprinkled with great loose black and white stones. The road is macadamized with black and white stones. The walls of the houses, gardens, and courtyards are all built of black and white stones. After Bally-galley Head come other steep and precipitous rocks and cliffs called the Sallagh-braes. Here the white chalk foundation and the black basalt deposit can be plainly distinguished. One large mass of basalt had detached itself from the rest, and reared its black head from the graves near the coast. The Irish gave it the name Knockdhu, or the Black Rock. Farther out to sea, about 4 miles from land, lie other rocks called the Maidens. Upon two of them lighthouses have been erected. Farther out in the distance, the nearest point of Scotland is seen bearing its head above the waters, the Mull of Cantyre with its neighboring island of Sanda.

39. Round tower on Swords church bears a Christian stone cross

    Swords · town · Dublin

    Kohl notes that Christian emblems have been discovered on some round towers, citing the tower near Swords in County Dublin, which bears a small stone cross on its summit, considered a modern addition rather than original to the structure.

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    ChristlaB emblems have been diM!0?«red te some of these towers. On the summit of that near 8words, in the county of Dublin, is a small stone bn^s^ aiid" i& otheru even representations of the Virgin have been found; but these, there i:anhot be a doubl; are of modem addilibh. That churches and oemeteHes should so oltea be found in the vicinity of these towers is bothmg surprising, fur a building that has once become saered in the eyes ol a people, generally retains a portitm of its sanctity, even though the. original religion mayiae utterly swept away. Most of the early Christian churches were erected on the foundations of heathen temples, and a large portion of the Turkish mosques were lormerly Christian churches.

    Generally, where in the vicinity of a round tower there qccur the ruins of churches, these are in number Seven. This has been explained by supposing !that previously to the appearance of St. Patrick, Christianity, but not Romas OithoKc Christianity, had been introduced into- Ireland. This ante-patrician Christianity iß- said to have been introdueed l^ the ApostlW James, who first preached the gospel in Ireland;, and established the Eastern church there, with the rites of the Eastein (Ecumenic Synods ; and the frequent appearance of seven chnrehes close to each other, is accounted for as a reference to the seven celebrated churches of the East la this hypothesis, though stoutly denied by the Roman Catholics, there is nothing improbable, and if true it aflbrds another remarkable proof of the early connexion between Ireland and the- East. In no other Christian land in Europe do^ weeonstantly find the ruins of ancient churchee in groups of seven.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through or near Swords, in County Dublin, where a round tower stands with a small stone cross fixed on its summit. That cross is not original to the tower. It is a modern addition, placed long after the tower was built. Christian emblems have been found on some of these round towers. In other cases, even representations of the Virgin have been discovered on them. These too are judged modern additions, not original to the structures. It is no surprise that churches and cemeteries are so often found near round towers. A building that has become sacred in the eyes of a people generally keeps some part of its sanctity, even if the original religion is utterly swept away. Most early Christian churches were built on the foundations of heathen temples, and many Turkish mosques were formerly Christian churches. Where round towers have church ruins nearby, these are often seven in number. This is explained by the idea that before Saint Patrick appeared, Christianity, though not Roman Catholic Christianity, had already been introduced into Ireland. It is said to have been brought by the Apostle James, who first preached the gospel in Ireland and established the Eastern church there, with the rites of the Eastern Ecumenic Synods. The seven churches close together are a reference to the seven celebrated churches of the East. This hypothesis is stoutly denied by Roman Catholics, but there is nothing improbable in it. If true, it affords another remarkable proof of the early connection between Ireland and the East. In no other Christian land in Europe do we find ancient church ruins in groups of seven.

40. Shannon Harbour as Canal-Shannon Junction Point

    Shannon Harbour · electoral division · Offaly

    Shannon Harbour, at the mouth of the Grand Canal where it meets the Shannon, formed an intermediate trading point between Dublin and Limerick, consisting of an inn, warehouses, and cabins for Irish labourers, with Galway oysters stored there.

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    Shaimon Harbour lies on the Shannon, at themonth of the Grand Canal. This canal extend« - to Dublin, and the Shannon being navigable hence to Limerick, Gannon Harbour forms an intermediate point of some importance for the inland navigation between those two cities. The commerce along this canal is not, however, very considerable, and Shannon Harix>ur, whatever it may hereafter become, consists at present only of a good inn, with a row of warehout^es and counting-houses along the canal, and a sort of appendix »f cabins for the Irish labourers. In the warehouses I saw little except large qiiantities of Galway oysters, and as I found it im pes-

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    Shannon Harbour lies along the Shannon, where the Grand Canal meets the river. The canal runs to Dublin, and the Shannon is navigable down to Limerick, so this place serves as a midpoint for trade between those two cities. The trade is not large. At present it amounts to a good inn, a row of warehouses and counting-houses along the canal, and a cluster of cabins for the Irish labourers. In the warehouses there was little to see except large quantities of Galway oysters.

41. Tober a Youlish Spring Near Drogheda

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    The reciter mentions a beautiful old song about 'Tober a Youlish', the glittering spring located only three miles from Drogheda.

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    *• Yes, indeed, our ancestors have bequeathed to us great numbers of songs, and very beautiful ones too, sir. If you could only understand them ! What a beautiful song is that of ' Tober a YoUish,* that is of the glittering spring, "Which is only three miles off from our town ; and that other of CuchuUin, the Irish champion, who went over Scotland. Please your reverence, shall I begin with CuchuUin V •• Do, my son, and God bless you." The man began to recite, and went on uninterruptedly for a quarter of an hour. His story, of which I of course understood not a word, but "MTbich my friendly host afterwards explained to xne, »"eated of a Scottish enchantress, named Aithuna, who, forsaken by her Irish lover, CuchuUin, laid a cruel speU upon their son Konnell, which compeUed him by an irresistible en- «bantment, and entirely against his will, to follow, to persecute, to fight, and at last to destroy bis father CuohuUin. At the last moment, after stabbing his father to the heart, in spHe of the efforts by which he struggled to resist the borrible impulse of his destiny, his own heart broke in the struggle, and son and father died together, while the revengeful spirit of the cruel enchantress hovered in exultation over the flying» repeating to her treacherous lover the story of his inconstancy and her revenge.

    I was glad of an opportunity of assuring myself by o^ demonstration of the actual existence of Ossianic poetry like this at the present day. The reciter was, as I have said, a simple and ignorant man, with a good deal of the clown about htm, and his recitation was as simple, unadorned, and undeclamatory as himself Sometimes, however, when carried away by the interest of his story, his manner and voice were animated and moving ; at such times he fixed bis eyes on his hearers, as if demanding their sympathy and admiration for himself and his poem. Sometimes I noticed that the metre completely changed, and I was told that this

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 65

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Drogheda, there is a spring called Tober a Youlish, the glittering spring, that sits three miles from the town. A writer travelling here was told by a local man that their ancestors had bequeathed great numbers of beautiful songs, and among them was one about this very spring. The man offered to recite, and went on uninterrupted for a quarter of an hour. The tale he told was of Cuchullin, the Irish champion, who went over to Scotland. There he was loved by an enchantress named Aithuna, but he forsook her. In her bitterness she laid a cruel spell upon their son, Connell, compelling him by an irresistible enchantment, and entirely against his will, to follow, to persecute, to fight, and at last to destroy his father. At the last moment, after stabbing his father to the heart, in spite of all his efforts to resist the impulse of his destiny, his own heart broke in the struggle, and son and father died together. The revengeful spirit of the enchantress hovered in exultation over the dying, repeating the story of his inconstancy and her revenge. The writer was glad to satisfy himself that Ossianic poetry like this still existed in his day, carried by a simple, unadorned man whose voice grew animated and moving when the story carried him away.

42. Belfast as Presbyterian Ecclesiastical Capital

    near Belfast · city · Antrim

    Belfast is identified as the principal seat of Irish Presbyterianism, where the general assemblies of the church are held and where the Moderator, head of the Presbyterian Church, resides.

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    The principal. seat of episcopacy in Ireland is Dublin, where the Episcopalian university is situated ; but the Episcopalian ministers reign as masters in every part of the island. Belfast is the principal seat of Presbyterianism ; it is there that their general assemblies are held, and that their Moderator, the head of the Presbyterian Church, resides. The Catholics have no such central city, although many of the great towns in Ireland, Cork, Gal way, and Drogheda, for instance, are very Catholic.

    The Presbyterians oi^ Ireland form a particular church, planned on the model of that ot

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Belfast is the principal seat of Presbyterianism in Ireland. Their general assemblies are held here, and the Moderator, the head of the Presbyterian Church, resides here. Dublin holds the parallel role for episcopacy, with the Episcopalian university situated there, and Episcopalian ministers reigning as masters in every part of the island. The Catholics have no such central city, though many great towns in Ireland, Cork, Galway, and Drogheda among them, are very Catholic.

43. Clonmel described as the largest town in Tipperary with lively streets

    Clonmel · town · Tipperary

    Clonmel is noted as the largest town in County Tipperary, with about 15,000 inhabitants, and the narrator observes its thriving, bustling streets as evidence of its importance and prosperity.

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    Clonmel is the. largest laws in the cettnty oi Tipperary. It eontama 1((/QM inhabitaBtsvaad ita thrivinf aspect, and the aaioiated bnstleoCita . streets, bear teatuBony to its imperlaBC8.andvi prosperity^ AsweidismooBtedibefore thninoBl. donmiel amonber of oMbeggavwomen sur« rounded our car aa usnah . I gave oneof thanis: a penny. She spat upea it, and aft< first I Jma^ gtned ahe did 'soi to ahttwherxxmteBiptv beoaase I had given her so small a com: AfterwardSy however, I found that it is a regular custoia.o(^ the beggar»' in Iiehind (and also in some parts of En^^ndX toapit upon the money given them^ *• for good locfc^?' as -they say.

    The begganwomen were many of - them >too ohl and infian :t« foHonr >iis ; but a oR)Wd'iol>llttk^iflaoara haired chifalneti ran after the «ar » long I way, wfaea it had dfiaen oflT^ ThO'Wisvd« "ba^peaoy?' seema ta»have hecBBie so natwal' ^o their tongues, that it drops out spontaneoWKly^h» moraent-^they topes their lips^ They do not .GBret (What -, you. tmy • ta . them^ bJ! keep ' op one. incessnIi.cryT of '^halpbnny 1' ha'penhy.!»'^ • until aipiece of eoipperis^tlnrown toward« tAiesB, when tbs whole troop ftll t<^ gnibbing> in the * din, and acrambling fep it. On^ the wiNrie way • frwnj Limoriok) to Oork^ aiid ihoB» Coi4c to KiU keany;, a distanooiof somo hundred miles in lengthy opr ofor aras naveri a muMoeHi ftee fhMi' ^watraa« of ^ noiay little^ beggarsi and (as sooO aa * OBOitiroop gam ap iihe pur«ttl«f in deäpair, another; «ragged :litlile>tlia!OBg( came ehoutingaadg^^ kxpiB^iorer the oaoor.^ tosupptT itb place; fhe 3ianooBi-oara are vbit» ihvoamble «o besgars; beaaas»l!httttBrvelieKa«$t; perpetttaHyfaci^ thi» poBr< .sappliofNits, and daset to thou. F spoke of flaxea-haiced chik^r^Pfbiyt ,m fofpp^ intern districts the' li-rsh ate all hiack-haired. TJjp moat remarkable thing^ about it is, thfit whereas in other oouotriea blue eyesr are älvi^ fband with light bair, and dark eyes with dark hair, . the Irish are without reception bitte eyed, ana eyea of the cl^areBt azure tint gleam contitiu- ^ beneath hairiilack as tl^ raven*^ wing

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 37

    As the companion tells it

    Clonmel is the largest town in Tipperary, with about 15,000 inhabitants. Its thriving aspect and its bustling streets bear testimony to its importance and prosperity. When the travellers dismounted before the inn in Clonmel, a number of beggarwomen surrounded their car as usual. The narrator gave one a penny. She spat upon it. At first he imagined she did so to show contempt because he had given so small a coin. Afterward he found that it is a regular custom of beggars in Ireland, and also in some parts of England, to spit upon the money given them, "for good luck," as they say. Many of the beggarwomen were too old and infirm to follow, but a crowd of little flaxen-haired children ran after the car a long way when it had driven off. The word "ha'penny" seems to have become so natural to their tongues that it drops out spontaneously the moment they part their lips. They do not greet what you say to them but keep up one incessant cry of "ha'penny! ha'penny!" until a piece of copper is thrown toward them, when the whole troop falls to grabbing in the dirt and scrambling for it. On the whole way from Limerick to Cork and from Cork to Killarney, a distance of some hundred miles, the car was never a minute free from noisy little beggars. As soon as one troop gave up the pursuit in despair, another ragged little gang came shouting after the car to supply its place. The jaunting cars are very favorable to beggars because they sit perpetually facing the poor applicants and close to them. The narrator spoke of flaxen-haired children, though in other districts the Irish are all black-haired. The most remarkable thing is that whereas in other countries blue eyes are always found with light hair, the Irish are without exception blue-eyed, and eyes of the clearest azure gleam continually beneath hair black as the raven's wing.

44. Decline of distilleries in Wexford, New Ross and Enniscorthy

    Wexford · town · Wexford

    The author notes that Wexford formerly had seven breweries of which only one remained prosperous, and that the principal distilleries in New Ross and Enniscorthy had closed, which he takes as a hopeful sign against intemperance.

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    We cannot expect, at the end of only five years, to see a veiy visible effect produced upon the present generation by these infant schools. Yet the effect must be an important one. Thousands of children that would otherwise have ran wild about the streets, or have grown up in idleness in wretched hovels, enjoy now the advantage of a rational superintendence, and of a temporary asylum far better than the parental roof can offer them. There is a great desire for instruction among the Irish, and such being the case, it is diflScult not to rest sanguine hopes on the host of new schools that are starting up in all parts of the country. I do not remember to have passed through any Irish town, in which I did not see a spick and span new school-hoose, and a distillery either shut up or going evidently to decay. In Wexford there were formerly seven breweries, of which only one is now in a prosperous condition. In New Ross, whence we came, and in Enniscorthy, whither we were going, the principal distilleries had all been closä. These are the facts to make a man cry " Hear, hear !" and " One cheer more !" These are things that to a traveller whose heart is in the right place, convey more real enjoyment, than the contemplation of the finest scenery or the most magnificent monuments.

    I have already spoken of the new catholic churches and steeples that present themselves in almost every large Irish town. In Wexford, we saw another new catholic building, namely a handsome catholic college. **Our young priests," the Irish say, ** have no longer occasion to go to Rome or Paris, if they wish to learn something." Add to these the newlyerected poor-houses that are scattered over all Ireland, and we shall have named, pretty nearly all the new buildings of the country, and shall have indicated, at the same time, the principal points from which the moral destitution of the country is to be attacked ; the poor-houses wiU direct their assaults against the widely-spread

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Wexford once had seven breweries. Only one of them was still in a prosperous condition when this traveller passed through. He said that he did not remember passing through any Irish town where he did not see a spick and span new school-house, and a distillery either shut up or going to decay. In New Ross the principal distilleries had all been closed, and in Enniscorthy the same. He took the decline of these places as a hopeful sign. He said these were facts to make a man cry, Hear, hear, and One cheer more, and that they conveyed more real enjoyment to a traveller whose heart was in the right place than the contemplation of the finest scenery or the most magnificent monuments. He had been writing about the new Catholic churches and steeples that present themselves in almost every large Irish town. In Wexford he saw another new Catholic building, a handsome Catholic college. The Irish said their young priests no longer had occasion to go to Rome or Paris if they wished to learn something. He added the newly erected poor-houses scattered over all Ireland, and said these were the principal points from which the moral destitution of the country was to be attacked. He had been speaking too of infant schools, only five years established, and of the thousands of children who would otherwise have grown up in idleness in wretched hovels, now enjoying what he called rational superintendence. There was a great desire for instruction among the Irish, he said, and he rested sanguine hopes on the host of new schools starting up in all parts of the country.

45. Dundalk as an Oasis Amid Desolate Hills

    Dundalk · town · Louth · 1842–1844

    Kohl describes Dundalk as a clean and pretty little town of picturesque appearance lying on a small bay, forming a striking contrast to the miserable hills beyond it which he compares to the 'hungry hills' of Kerry.

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    Drogheda and its environs are surrounded by a little range of hills, to which succeed wide plains, followed by another isolated range of hills near Newry and Dundalk. Then follows another plafh and then more hills, beyond Belfast. The first plain, between Drogheda and Bundalk, in the county of Lowth, presents but a dreary spectacle to the eye of the traveller. Lowth is the most northern county in the old kingdom of Leinster, and seems to have participated least of all in the English improvements introduced into that kingdom. Every thing looks so miserable, so truly Irish, the cabins of the peasantry are so wretched, the aspect of the cultivated land is so wild and dreary, and (he inhabitants so dirty and ragged, that only in the western part of Ireland had I seen any thing Hke them. The nearer one gets to the borders of Leinster the worse every thing seems to become. Dundalk itself, indeed, a clean and pretty little town of picturesque appearance, lypg on the shores of a small bay or inlet» forms an oasis in the wilderness, but the hills beyond Dundalk are as miserable-looking as any thing can well be, and reminded me of nothing so much as the »* hungry hills" of Kerry. The aspect of these barren uplands is in the highest <legree wild and desolate. Except the fine, straight road itself, scarcely a trace of human industry is to be seen ; for tUe wretched huts scattered here and there among the hills look more like swallows' nests than human habitations.

    As we drove down the hills, the coachman Stopped to set something to right about his harness, and I got down and went towards one Cf these uninviting abodes. An Irish tinker sat before one of the cabins, busied in patching an old potato-kettle. A large hole had been burnt in its side, which extended so far down, that the kettle could never have been half full. I asked the peasant-woman, who was watching ibe tinker at his work, bow long the kettl^ had

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    The country between Drogheda and Dundalk is a dreary sight. Louth is the most northern county in the old kingdom of Leinster, and it seems to have shared least of all in the English improvements brought into that kingdom. The cabins of the peasantry are wretched, the cultivated land looks wild and dreary, and the people are dirty and ragged. The traveller who wrote this had seen nothing like it except in the west of Ireland. The nearer you get to the borders of Leinster, the worse everything becomes. Dundalk itself is a clean and pretty little town of picturesque appearance, lying on the shores of a small bay or inlet. It forms an oasis in the wilderness. But the hills beyond Dundalk are as miserable-looking as anything can well be, and reminded the writer of nothing so much as the hungry hills of Kerry. The aspect of these barren uplands is wild and desolate in the highest degree. Except the fine straight road itself, scarcely a trace of human industry is to be seen. The wretched huts scattered here and there among the hills look more like swallows' nests than human habitations. As the coach drove down the hills, the coachman stopped to set something right about his harness, and the writer got down and walked towards one of these uninviting abodes. An Irish tinker sat before one of the cabins, busy patching an old potato kettle. A large hole had been burnt in its side, extending so far down that the kettle could never have been half full. He asked the peasant woman who was watching the tinker at his work how long the kettle had been in that state.

46. Kilrush described as a fresher seaport town

    Kilrush · town · Clare

    Kilrush is described as a small seaport town on the Shannon, notable for having fewer ruins and a greater appearance of freshness and comfort than inland places, where the author lodged with a former sailor who had served under Nelson.

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    Kilrush is a small seaport town, and, like all seaport towns in Iretand, has fewer rains and a greater appearance of freshness and comfort man any of the places in the interior. I pat up imder the roof of an old sailor who had rought, in his time, under Nelson, and now direeted the only tolerable hostelry in the place.

    My first walk wfts to the gronnd where Father

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Kilrush, a small seaport town on the Shannon. Unlike places in the interior, it has fewer ruins and a fresher, more comfortable look. The author of one old travel book lodged here with a former sailor who had fought under Nelson and now ran the only tolerable inn in the place.

47. No trees survive the wind on Rathlin

    near Rathlin Island · island or archipelago · Antrim

    Guides on Fair Head told the narrator that Rathlin was subject to such constant tempestuous wind that no tree could grow above the level of the rector's garden wall without sickening and dying, so nothing on the island grew larger than bushes.

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    On the sumtnH of Fan* Head we were exactly ' . »pposite Rue Point, the nearest part of the j island of Rathlin, and about four miles distant The eastern side of this promontory presents the same basaltic structure as Benmore, and it is probable that the island has been torn from the mainland by some violent convulsion of nature. The long coast of the western wing of Rathlin was so plainly visible to us as we stood on Fair Head, that we could distinguish Church Bay, and tlte two districts of Ushet and Kenraraer. A mountain was pointed out to us, sa the site of Bruce Castle, and its high chaikf clifl^ and black cap of basalt were clearly diaoernible,.so that I could hardly persuade myself that it was impossible to reach it, although th» inland was surrouaded by a tremendous s«rt My guides informed me thai there wss ahnost always a tempestuous widd on Rathbn, so that no tree would grow in the reetor^s gatden^ and all over tbe island there were aoae larger thaa. bushes. So soon as any tree grsw ahovn tha level of the garden-watt, it began to sicken and die.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 82

    As the companion tells it

    Rathlin Island lies off the Antrim coast, visible from Fair Head. From that summit the view falls opposite Rue Point, the nearest part of the island. The eastern side of the promontory shows the same basaltic structure as Benmore, and the island may have been torn from the mainland by some violent convulsion of nature. The long western coast was plain enough to make out Church Bay and the two districts of Ushet and Kenramer. A mountain was pointed out as the site of Bruce Castle, its high chalk cliff and black cap of basalt clearly visible. It was hard to believe it was impossible to reach, though the island was surrounded by a tremendous sea. The guides said there was almost always a tempestuous wind on the island. No tree would grow in the rector's garden, and all over the island there were none larger than bushes. "So soon as any tree grew above the level of the garden wall, it began to sicken and die."

48. Rathlin fishing-boats stormbound at Ballycastle harbour

    near Ballycastle · town · Antrim

    Eight Rathlin fishing-boats were stormbound in Ballycastle harbour for three days, unable to make the six-mile crossing to Rathlin Island due to the tempestuous sea, delaying the rector's relatives from reaching the island.

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    The furnitiire looked comfortable, the tea-table stood ready, and near the fire — oh, wonder h-« were seated sonie ''.Antrim lasses," young ladies, who were on their way to pay a visit to their relative, the rector of Rathlia. The storm had for three days prevented their crossing to the. island, and eight Rathlin fishing-boats were lying in Ballycastle harbour, unable to get oqt on account of the temf)estuous sea, although the distance is but six miles.

    " It i^ an ill wind that blows no one any good,*' says the proverb, and I was at all events indebted to the gale for the pleasure of taking my tea in the company of the young ladies. There was no sitting-room but the one, and as necessity has no law, even the stiffioess of English etiquette was obliged to give wav, and the cold, wet, de* piorable^looking traveller, had to be admitted, without even asking permission from papa or mamma

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    Ballycastle is a town the road passes through near the Antrim coast. Eight Rathlin fishing-boats were lying in Ballycastle harbour, unable to get out on account of the tempestuous sea, although the distance to Rathlin Island is but six miles. The storm had blown for three days and prevented any crossing. Some Antrim lasses, young ladies on their way to pay a visit to their relative, the rector of Rathlin, had been kept waiting all that time. The writer found them seated near the fire in the inn, the tea-table standing ready. With no sitting-room but the one, even the stiffness of English etiquette had to give way, and the cold, wet, deplorable-looking traveller was admitted to their company without asking permission from papa or mamma. As the proverb says, "It is an ill wind that blows no one any good."

49. Reduced income of the rector of Enniscorthy

    Enniscorthy · townland · Wexford

    The rector of Enniscorthy had his income reduced from £2100 to about £1000 a year following reforms of the Irish Protestant clergy's revenues, illustrating the changing fortunes of the established church in Ireland.

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    Since the last '* clipping** Of the reffetraes of the Trish Protestant clergy, the rector of-Enniscorthy had been reduced from £21*00 to about £1000 a year ; but it most not be supposed that every Protestant clergyman has been reduced to -the same ettent. The bishops and archbishops are those from whom the least has been taken, and the necessity of a further dipping is sufficiently shown by a Teference to the table of the revenues of the Irish dignitaries. There zfe in all twenty-two Anglican bishops and

    ' afchbishops in Ireland» Only five less than in England.* Upon the wbö)e»the Irish bishops are better paid than those-öf England ; for the average income of the former is £7000 a year, and of the latter £6000. Four English bishops have less than ^IfOOO a year ; in ir^'änd there is not one whose ineomef fklt^ bdowthat amount. The two tiche« sees in Etfg;larrd «re those bf

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Enniscorthy, the rector here once drew £2100 a year. That was before the reforms of the Irish Protestant clergy's revenues. After those reforms, his income dropped to about £1000 a year. But not every Protestant clergyman was cut to the same extent. The bishops and archbishops were those from whom the least was taken. The writer says the necessity of a further dipping is sufficiently shown by a reference to the revenues of the Irish dignitaries. There are in all 22 Anglican bishops and archbishops in Ireland, only 5 less than in England. On the whole, the Irish bishops are better paid than those of England. The average income of the Irish bishops is £7000 a year, and of the English bishops £6000. Four English bishops have less than £5000 a year. In Ireland there is not one whose income falls below that amount.

50. Rook colony at Edenvale glen

    Edenvale · townland · Clare

    The author describes an immense flight of rooks darkening the sun over the glen at Edenvale, a spectacle locals said was common as the rooks long favored the glen as a haunt.

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    On my arrival, I found my worthy host bu.sy with his trees and flowers, and we immediately undertook a Utile tour round the lovely glen on the margin of which his house is situated. One of the most remarkable spectacles that presented itself during my visit, was a complete eclipse of ^e sun, caused bv an immense flight of rooks. Never in my life had i seen so many bird» collected together. It was as if all the feathered tenants of the hundred thousand ruined castles, abbeys, and towers of Ireland l^ad assembled to hold a motister meeting. The silent glen was at once filled by their. loud and discordant cries, and their droppings poured down like a shower of hail J and jet the mhabitants of Eden vale assured me the spectacle was no uncommon one, the rooks having long made the glen one of their favourite, haunts. It. was at least an hour before the^ihj cpncert was at au end, and the air clear of the ungainly vocalists, and when the swarm had passed, I felt as if a thunderstorm had rolled away.

    These rooks, as the English call them, may

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Edenvale, there is a glen where rooks once gathered in numbers vast enough to black out the sun. A visitor arriving here found his host busy with trees and flowers, and they set out together for a tour round the glen. What he saw was one of the most remarkable spectacles of his visit, a complete eclipse of the sun caused by an immense flight of rooks. He had never in his life seen so many birds collected together. He wrote that it was as if all the feathered tenants of the hundred thousand ruined castles, abbeys, and towers of Ireland had assembled to hold a monster meeting. The silent glen filled at once with their loud and discordant cries, and their droppings poured down like a shower of hail. The people of Edenvale assured him the spectacle was no uncommon one, the rooks having long made the glen one of their favourite haunts. It was at least an hour before their concert was at an end and the air clear of the ungainly vocalists. When the swarm had passed, he felt as if a thunderstorm had rolled away.

51. Tralee's Modest Comforts After a Grey Evening

    Tralee · townland · Kerry · 1842–1844

    The author arrives in Tralee on a dreary evening and finds relief in a blazing fire and a hearty supper of chickens, bacon, ham, roast beef and vegetables. He remarks on the surprisingly good fare found in so remote a place.

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    It is a pity that the. ck;»ids .turn their lea^^ agreeable side towaidis the earth. Had we thai evening contemplated from aJbove, the clouds that looked to us so gray and .monotonous, we should probably have seen them radiant with light^and diversified with every shade of colour. To us, however, ti^y were- one dull, unbroken gray, and glad enough we weoe^ aanigbt set in^ and this gray was turning into b^aek, to arrive in Tralee, wnere a fine blazing fine indemnified us fbr the itirfrmuB^ evening.

    Ou¥ supp^ consisted of chickens, bacon, ham, i^ast beer, Chester cheese,. and celery, with po^ tatoes and cabbage sodden in water, and I bad scarcely expected, in so reasnote a i^ace, to (have fbond these various dishes so esoellently pif&^ pared. There were four of us, ands^ur ooutyev^ sation was of the kind which genelisily passi^s on such occasions, in the British; iiiiands, between persons whose aequaintance with each other is slight and of teoent*date. '^ Ma y I trou* ble you ft>r ft bit of beef V^ « Will yon allow nae to »»end you< a piece of chicken 1 Have you, any eAioice as to the wing or the breast 1" *^m»yl have thejionouit of taking a gbi$9 of wii^ witb you 1" " I shall he veiy happy." '* I'll trouble you for a potato." •* Witt you take any moreT* This was the soi^ of crossr^re of civil, speeches» that wais kept nptbrougb, supper time, and though itsoundiipretMly^eaoHgh When heard fyr the first time, it becomeer insufferably, tedious and absurd after firequentrenetiticHi«

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a traveller on a dreary evening between 1842 and 1844 found unexpected comfort. The clouds that day were one dull, unbroken gray, and glad enough were he and his companions when night set in and the gray turned to black. They arrived in Tralee, where a fine blazing fire indemnified them for the tedious evening. Their supper consisted of chickens, bacon, ham, roast beef, Chester cheese, and celery, with potatoes and cabbage sodden in water. He had scarcely expected, in so remote a place, to find these various dishes so excellently prepared. There were four of them at the table, and their conversation was of the kind that generally passes on such occasions in the British Isles between persons whose acquaintance with each other is slight and of recent date. "May I trouble you for a bit of beef?" "Will you allow me to send you a piece of chicken? Have you any choice as to the wing or the breast?" "May I have the honour of taking a glass of wine with you?" "I shall be very happy." "I'll trouble you for a potato." "Will you take any more?" This was the sort of cross-fire of civil speeches kept up through supper time, and though it sounds pleasant enough when heard for the first time, it becomes insufferably tedious and absurd after frequent repetition.

52. Woman's fairy music encounter near Ballinasloe bog

    Ballinasloe · town · Galway

    A woman recounted that while travelling from Galway through County Roscommon over the bog of Ballinasloe, she heard beautiful fairy music near a well while her husband slept, and in her haste to leave with him forgot a new handkerchief she had bought in Galway.

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    " I see, sir, you don't believe 'em," cried « woman here, ^'and yet it's a wonder Vou don't. Well; I've seen the good people witß my owa eyes dancing on their grounds, and my own ears have heard them play the most beaatiful music. It's only a few days ago that my husband and/" were coming Irom Gal way, through the count» of Roscommon, over the bog of Ballinaslo« We were both tired and lay down to sie«*» »*- ♦»-

    18

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ballinasloe, that bog you're crossing has its own tale. A woman travelling from Galway through County Roscommon told how she and her husband lay down to rest here, tired from the road. While he slept, she heard what she called "the most beautiful music" from the good people dancing on their grounds, and saw them with her own eyes. In her haste to be gone, she left behind a new handkerchief she had bought in Galway.

53. Belfast Museum's Natural History Collection

    near Belfast · city · Antrim

    The Society of Natural History in Belfast maintained a small museum containing Irish antiquities found in the neighbourhood and natural curiosities, though Kohl criticized its lack of a complete geological collection illustrating the Giant's Causeway formations.

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    The Society of Natural History has collected a small museum« in a handsome and elegant building. Many such museums have of late been established in all the towns of England ; but upon the whole, the museums of our smaller German towns are older, richer, and better kept than these British provincial museums. The museum of Belfast contains many interesting Irish antiquities ibund in the neighbourhood, and also many natural curiosities ; but the traveller seeks in vain for what he must most desire and expect in this place— I meaii, a complete, well-arranged, satisfactory, and instructive collection of geolofrical and m'ueralogical specimens, illustrative of the Gimt's Causeway, and the other interesting volcanic formations, which render the whole northern coast of Ireland so remarkab'e. Every proviii. cial museum has its own particular task to fulfil, since each is generally particulariy qualified, by its geographical position, to promote the investigation of some one important branch of natural history. Belfast, a great city, rich in scientific materials and learned men, is undoubtedly called upon to collect in its museums whatever can be collected of specimens, models, or reports, likely to afford instruction as to those remarkable basaltic formations, whick render the northern coast of Ireland famous throughout the scientific world. Some specimens of this coast are indeed found in the Belfast museums ; but in vain we ask after a «-omplete collection of all the volcanic materials of which the northern coast consists, or for an arrangement of them in the natural «irder in which they are found, or for a correct model in wood or plaster of the Giant's Causeway, or of, the whole northern coast, none of which ought to be wanting in a place like Belfast. The trav-

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Belfast, there is a museum kept by the Society of Natural History, housed in a handsome and elegant building. It is a small museum, collecting many interesting Irish antiquities found in the neighbourhood, and also many natural curiosities. The traveller who comes here, though, seeks in vain for what he must most desire and expect in this place: a complete, well-arranged, satisfactory, and instructive collection of geological and mineralogical specimens, illustrative of the Giant's Causeway and the other interesting volcanic formations which render the whole northern coast of Ireland so remarkable. Every provincial museum has its own particular task to fulfil, since each is generally particularly qualified by its geographical position to promote the investigation of some one important branch of natural history. Belfast, a great city, rich in scientific materials and learned men, is undoubtedly called upon to collect in its museums whatever can be collected of specimens, models, or reports likely to afford instruction as to those remarkable basaltic formations which render the northern coast of Ireland famous throughout the scientific world. Some specimens of this coast are indeed found in the Belfast museums. But in vain do we ask after a complete collection of all the volcanic materials of which the northern coast consists, or for an arrangement of them in the natural order in which they are found, or for a correct model in wood or plaster of the Giant's Causeway, or of the whole northern coast. None of these ought to be wanting in a place like Belfast.

54. New Catholic college built in Wexford

    Wexford · town · Wexford

    A handsome new Catholic college had been built in Wexford, meaning young priests no longer needed to travel to Rome or Paris for their education.

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    I have already spoken of the new catholic churches and steeples that present themselves in almost every large Irish town. In Wexford, we saw another new catholic building, namely a handsome catholic college. **Our young priests," the Irish say, ** have no longer occasion to go to Rome or Paris, if they wish to learn something." Add to these the newlyerected poor-houses that are scattered over all Ireland, and we shall have named, pretty nearly all the new buildings of the country, and shall have indicated, at the same time, the principal points from which the moral destitution of the country is to be attacked ; the poor-houses wiU direct their assaults against the widely-spread

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Wexford has a new Catholic college, a handsome building, and it changes something practical for the Irish. Young priests no longer need to go to Rome or Paris if they wish to learn. The Irish say so themselves. New Catholic churches and steeples present themselves in almost every large Irish town, and this college in Wexford is another new Catholic building of the same kind. Alongside these, newly erected poor-houses are scattered over all Ireland. Together, these churches, colleges, and poor-houses make up nearly all the new buildings in the country, and they mark the principal points from which the moral destitution of Ireland is to be attacked.

55. Newry: A Handsome Linen Town

    near Newry · town · Down · 1842–1844

    Kohl describes Newry as a handsome, pleasing town with pretty houses, tree-lined streets, and a bay full of vessels, marking the beginning of the flax and linen manufacturing country of Ulster.

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    Newry is a handsome town of a tolerable size, and throughout of very pleasing appearance. Its houses are pretty, its streets adorned by rows of trees, and its bay is full of vessels. Here begins the flax and linen country, the spinning, weaving, and bleaching land ; and from Newry the farther north we go, the finer and choicer becomes the linen. The villages of Banbridge and Moyallan are distinguished for producing particularly fine flax. All these flax-growing and spinning places. Banbridge, Drömore, Hillsborough, and others, through which we passed, looked cheerful, pros- |>erous, and thriving, ,and seemed, as neat and . clean as the linen they produced.

    This branch of industry is of a p^ultar kind, .and when flourishing, it is about as desirable a

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    Newry is a handsome town, pleasing in appearance, with pretty houses and streets lined with trees. Its bay is full of vessels. This is where the flax and linen country begins, the land of spinning, weaving, and bleaching. From Newry northward, the linen grows finer and choicer. The nearby villages of Banbridge and Moyallan are known for producing particularly fine flax. All these flax-growing and spinning places, Banbridge, Droghmore, Hillsborough, and others, looked cheerful, prosperous, and thriving, and seemed as neat and clean as the linen they produced. This branch of industry is of a particular kind, and when flourishing, it is about as desirable a trade as any.

56. Ruined Castles of Duninny and Kenbaan near Ballycastle

    near Ballycastle · town · Antrim

    Near Ballycastle, ruins of two heroic-period castlets, Duninny and Kenbaan, stand atop a lofty perpendicular rock rising from the ocean. The round tower of Armoy also stood nearby to the left of the road.

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    On the feUowing day I prepared for my es»- cursion to the Giant's Causeway. The wiaA was still bowling along over the sea, and rashiing in violent gusts and eddies among the redot» breaking against their perpendicular sides» aad dashing up in wilder tumult probably, than ever did ih6 waters ofthe ocean in their utmost fury. On the coast I remarked many of the ^ puffing« holes*' I have already menttoaed, from whiok the water was rushing as if from the nostrils of the whale. My equipage was again the little. Irish car with, one horse, and my imaginatkni was filled with the things that I was going to see. The. whole rocky coast of Antrim is cov** ered with the ruins of ancient castlets of the> heroic period glorified in the Iri^h and Scoteb ballads^ Immediately beyond Ballycaatle, on m lofly perpendicular rode rising out ofthe oeeaa» lie the ruins of two of them — Dun ing and Kenbaan Castles, and on the left of the road those of a still mightier work of human hands, thai found tower of Armoy.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 84

    As the companion tells it

    The whole rocky coast of Antrim is covered with the ruins of ancient castlets from the heroic period, celebrated in Irish and Scottish ballads. Near Ballycastle, on a lofty perpendicular rock rising out of the ocean, lie the ruins of two of them, Duninny and Kenbaan Castles. The round tower of Armoy also stood near the road, a still mightier work of human hands. The wind was bowling along over the sea, rushing in violent gusts and eddies among the rocks, breaking against their perpendicular sides, and dashing up in wilder tumult than the waters of the ocean in their utmost fury. Along the coast there were puffing holes, from which the water was rushing as if from the nostrils of a whale. This was a journey toward the Giant's Causeway, by little Irish car with one horse.

57. The Kilkenny race course and its crowds

    Kilkenny · city · Kilkenny

    The race course lay three miles outside Kilkenny town, reached by a dusty road crowded with cars, omnibuses and carriages of every description, with thousands of spectators, a Grand Stand, and rows of dancing and refreshment tents set up nearby.

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    The flelä ^«s ^ct^H^tid with thousands ef

    trspeetators. ITbe Grand Stand w^ full to («verflowing, and m were two otüer soafföki- 'dngs erected only for t the day. The ^uifiage^ ridfaWn upon the ctdge iof the course formed a complete ii^trenchment, while 'hondreds en

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    Kilkenny lies along this road, and three miles outside the town the race course drew thousands of spectators. The dusty road carried cars, omnibuses and carriages. The Grand Stand was full to overflowing, two other standings put up for the day. Carriages edged the course in a complete trenchment. Rows of dancing and refreshment tents stood nearby.

58. The Maidens rocks and lighthouses

    The Maidens or Hulin Rocks · island or archipelago · Antrim

    About four miles offshore lie rocks called 'The Maidens,' upon two of which lighthouses have been erected, marking a hazard for shipping along the Antrim coast.

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    After Balllßy-galley Head, w« reached other steep and preoipitodis rocks and clifis. calted the^ Sallagh-braes. Here the wh«te chalk founda-^- tion an<| tbe<b1ackfbaaaii deposit were plainly' enough< to be. diatinguished. One large mass df ^ basalt, had detached itself from theirest, and reapJ' ed its black' heiad from itte itraves near the toast " Knockdhu,? or theBla^k Rock, waa the name given it by the lirish. Farther out to sea. abpuc foqr miles fromland, lie other rocks called <* Th^ • Maidens." , . U poo two of them lighthobses havd , bejsn erected. Pjarth^ü out in the distance, the ■ nearest point of &<(xytlaiid is seen irearingits head above the waters. •■ It is the Mdll of Ahtib^ with' ita ne%hbour: island; of Sandä. - ' : ^

    ', Gilenaum i? the most beadtiläl point' älOAjgf (he - whple eoa$t, of Antrim ; iofdeed the^ ioriany attrac- ' tion8 which unite m this valley, i^derft One of ttee most heautifal spots m^IrelandJ On each' side, of it ri^es a long range of dark' baaaSlic^ rocks^ leaving« wide tevelibetWeen, as= they run' inland tolerably plurallel* ton each other. A littlebrook sparkles thixiugfa thö. valley, and here and^ there littte waterfalls mh'ddwnthe black roektf' on either side-, keening the land wdl irrigatfed, and covering it with a carpet of the hrfghtest?' verdureTimagi^able, as well asafiibrdingnötirish^ ment to the most beautiful dumps of stately ol(^' trees^ which dot it here and there; In thi^ vaV' ley lies the residence of i he Antrim ihmily, and'' the little village appertaining to it. , Near the village and the castle, g 11 traces of wilderness ' vanish^entimly, and a charming park and preny ' flower-garden confer additional beautie^ on the scene. The castle itself, to whose distinguislred ' mistress I had the honour of paying a visit, i^ built in a fine old Gothic style, and fumiAKed with modem taste and elegance. Fonr hundred deer and stags graze around it, and six hundred old ancestral trees overshadow its grounds with their sheading boughs : and «11 th is sifiiling and peaceful beauty, sheltered ttetwcen'the wiM btatk ■ rocks, which form the little gles^ with a Vfe^ opeoing on old ocean rolHtig his stivmv wMt^^'r crested waves beyond, ibrms perhaps the most' ^ wonderful site in all the ^orld for a suÄäly*| baronial mansion. • > * !

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    Off the Antrim coast, about four miles from land, lie rocks called The Maidens. Upon two of them lighthouses have been erected, marking the hazard for shipping along this shore. The coast here is steep and precipitous. After Ballgalley Head come the Sallagh-braes, cliffs where the white chalk foundation and the black basalt deposit are plainly enough to be distinguished. One large mass of basalt had detached itself from the rest and reared its black head from the waves near the coast. The Irish gave it the name Knockdhu, or the Black Rock. Farther out still, beyond The Maidens, the nearest point of Scotland is seen rearing its head above the waters. It is the Mull of Cantyre with its neighbouring island of Sanda.

59. Waterford's stagnant population compared to other Irish cities

    Waterford · city · Waterford · 1821–1831

    Waterford, the sixth city of Ireland with about 30,000 inhabitants, is noted to have remained nearly stationary in population over twenty years (up from 28,700), unlike Belfast, Galway, Derry and Newry which grew substantially between 1821 and 1831.

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    Waterford is the sixth city in Ireland with about 30,000 inhabitants. Twenty years ago it contained 28.700, and may therefore be considered to have remained stationary, as has been the case with' most of the towns in the south of Ireland. Even in Cork, from 1821 to 1831, the population increased only from 100,668, to 107,016 inhabitants ; whereas, in Belfast, during the same period, the augmentation was no less than forty-two per cen.t., in Gal way twenty* in I ondonderry sixteen, and in Newiy thirty per cent.

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Waterford, the sixth city of Ireland, has about 30,000 inhabitants. Twenty years ago it held 28,700, and so may be considered to have remained stationary, as has been the case with most towns in the south of Ireland. Even Cork grew only from 100,668 to 107,016 between 1821 and 1831. But in the same period Belfast gained forty-two per cent, Galway twenty, Londonderry sixteen, and Newry thirty. It stayed nearly still while those cities pulled ahead.

60. Cork, Galway and Drogheda as Catholic Strongholds

    Cork · city · Cork

    The text notes that unlike the Presbyterians and Episcopalians, the Catholics have no single central city, though several major towns including Cork, Galway, and Drogheda are noted as strongly Catholic.

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    The principal. seat of episcopacy in Ireland is Dublin, where the Episcopalian university is situated ; but the Episcopalian ministers reign as masters in every part of the island. Belfast is the principal seat of Presbyterianism ; it is there that their general assemblies are held, and that their Moderator, the head of the Presbyterian Church, resides. The Catholics have no such central city, although many of the great towns in Ireland, Cork, Gal way, and Drogheda, for instance, are very Catholic.

    The Presbyterians oi^ Ireland form a particular church, planned on the model of that ot

    Internet Archive irelanddublinsh00kohlgoog, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Cork, it's worth knowing this city stands out as one of Ireland's strongly Catholic towns. The Catholics have no single central city the way the Episcopalians have Dublin or the Presbyterians have Belfast. But Cork, along with Galway and Drogheda, is noted as very Catholic.