Kerry

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Geraldine forces flee to Slieve Mish Mountains

   near Slieve Mish Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Kerry · 1600

   After Sir Charles Wilmot defeated the Geraldine forces at Tralee, they fled in disorder to the Slieve Mish Mountains. Wilmot then turned his attention to the relief of nearby Liscahane Castle.

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   lished his headquarters at Carrigfoyle in N. Kerry, and from this celebrated stronghold he sent the dashing and gallant Sir Charles Wilmot to surprise Lixnaw. From there Wilmot rode with fifty horse to the castle of Sir Edward Denny in Tralee, which had been taken by the forces of the Sugane Earl of Desmond. Sir Charles defeated the Geraldine forces, who fled in disorder to the Slieve Mish Mountains, and then turned his attention to the relief of Liscahane Castle, which was bravely held by Walter Talbot. This warfare dragged on through the year 1600, and its fluctuations are rather difficult to follow.

   We read that the fortifications of Beale, then called Beaulieu, were destroyed by Patrick, Lord Kerry, who shortly afterwards died of grief at seeing Lixnaw in the possession of the English. Then we read that the Knight of Kerry was granted protection by Sir Charles Wilmot for his loyalty in refusing to allow the Sugane Earl into his castle at Dingle, and that his loyalty cost him dear and exposed him to annoyance from the followers of the Sugane Earl of Desmond. About the end of August 1600 Maurice Stack, a brave man who had assisted in the defence of Lischane, was invited to dine at the Castle of Beale or Beaulieu by the wife of the Lord Kerry, and was treacherously murdered by some officers with " skeins," and his body thrown from a high window into the courtyard. The brother of the Lady Kerry — the' Earl of Thomond — was so disgusted by this treacherous deed that he refused to see his sister again, and she shortly afterwards died.

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 25

   As the companion tells it

   These mountains saw the Geraldine forces scatter in disorder. It happened in 1600. Sir Charles Wilmot had been sent from Carrigfoyle, the stronghold in North Kerry, to surprise Lixnaw. From there he rode with fifty horse to the castle of Sir Edward Denny in Tralee, which had been taken by the forces of the Sugane Earl of Desmond. Sir Charles defeated the Geraldine forces, and they fled in disorder to the Slieve Mish Mountains. Wilmot did not follow them. He turned his attention to the relief of Liscahane Castle, which was bravely held by Walter Talbot. This warfare dragged on through the year 1600. The fortifications of Beale, then called Beaulieu, were destroyed by Patrick, Lord Kerry, who shortly afterwards died of grief at seeing Lixnaw in the possession of the English. The Knight of Kerry was granted protection by Sir Charles Wilmot for refusing to allow the Sugane Earl into his castle at Dingle. His loyalty cost him dear and exposed him to annoyance from the followers of the Sugane Earl. About the end of August 1600, Maurice Stack, a brave man who had assisted in the defence of Liscahane, was invited to dine at the Castle of Beale by the wife of the Lord Kerry. He was treacherously murdered by some officers with "skeins," and his body thrown from a high window into the courtyard. The brother of the Lady Kerry, the Earl of Thomond, was so disgusted by this treacherous deed that he refused to see his sister again, and she shortly afterwards died.

2. Lake View House, home of Sir Morgan O'Connell

   Killarney · townland · Kerry

   Beyond Fossa Chapel on the road from Killarney to Beaufort, the gates of Lake View House stand on the left. The house itself, the home of Sir Morgan O'Connell, is not visible from the road, and shortly beyond its gates a road branches off to the Gap of Dunloe.

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   From Killarney to Beaufort, Dunloe, and back. From Killarney to Beaufort Bridge is a straight 6 m. of good road. The first part of the journey can be made either by following the main road past the Cathedral and along the banks of the Deena to Ballydowney Bridge (i m.), and thence passing the gates of the Victoria Hotel on the L. (ij m.), and having on the R. the woods of Gortroe and the ruined Cathedral of Aghadoe, to Aghadoe Cross, 2^ m., or by way of the Western Park, which affords a fine view of the Lower Lake, Toomies Mountains, and the Reeks, to the same place. At Aghadoe Cross a road branches off to the right up a hill, passing the gates of Aghadoe House, the seat of Lord Headley, and eventually leading to Milltown, 12 m., or by Aglish and Rockfield to Tralee, 20 m. Leaving, however, this road for the present, and continuing along the main road towards Beaufort, Fossa Chapel is passed on the R. hand, and shortly after this the gates of Lake View are seen on the left. Lake View House, the home of Sir Morgan O'Connell, is not seen from the road. A few yards beyond the gates of this house a road branches off to the L., leading to the Gap of Dunloe. This cross is 3J m. from Killarney

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 47

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Killarney stands Lake View House, the home of Sir Morgan O'Connell. The road from Killarney to Beaufort Bridge runs straight for 6 miles. The first part of the journey could be made by following the main road past the Cathedral and along the banks of the Deena to Ballydowney Bridge, 1 mile, and then past the gates of the Victoria Hotel at 2 miles, with the woods of Gortroe and the ruined Cathedral of Aghadoe on the right, to Aghadoe Cross. The Western Park offered another way to the same place, affording a fine view of the Lower Lake, the Toomies Mountains, and the Reeks. At Aghadoe Cross a road branched off to the right up a hill, past the gates of Aghadoe House, the seat of Lord Headley, leading eventually to Milltown, 12 miles, or by Aglish and Rockfield to Tralee, 20 miles. Continuing along the main road towards Beaufort, Fossa Chapel was passed on the right. Shortly after, the gates of Lake View were reached. The house itself was not seen from the road. A few yards beyond the gates a road branched off to the left, leading to the Gap of Dunloe. This cross was 3 and a half miles from Killarney.

3. Legendary battle of Ventry

   Ventry · townland · Kerry

   Legends describe a great battle fought at Ventry, associated with Conn of the hundred fights and other heroes of the mythological period.

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   ing. There is the legend of a certain Queen Scota, the daughter of Pharaoh and wife of Milidh the Milesian, according to the *' Annals of the Four Masters/' whose grave is still shown in a wooded glen near Tralee ; there are stories of Finn Mac Coul and a warrior named Colman which the boatmen of Killarney are fond of recounting ; and there is the legend of Curoi of Daire, who carried away Blanaid, the beautiful maid, from the island of Mana, to Caherconree, where, after a time, she treacherously betrayed him into the hands of CuchuUin. There are legends of the great battle of Ventry and the doings of '* Conn of the hundred fights," and other heroes of the same period. But from the 6th century a more defined idea can be formed, and the old ruined shrines and beehive huts are records of the greatest value to emphasise the history of St Brandon, St Finan, and other saints whose lives were spent in claiming Ireland for the Cross.

   When the period of the coming of the Norman warriors is reached the historic records rest on a firmer foundation. The tribal wars between the O'Sullivans, O'Donoghues, O'Connors, and MacCarthys widen out into broader vistas, and a fairly defined path runs through the whole. At that time, i.e. about the year 1172, the present county of Kerry was held by the sept of O'Connors in the N., MacCarthy More, O'SuUivan More, and O'Donoghue in the centre, whilst O' Sullivan Beare, the great chieftain of West Cork, held a strip of South Kerry along the shores of the Kenmare River. There were also minor septs or clans — O'Talveys and M'Gillicuddys, O'Connells and O'Mahonys, the latter being an offshoot of

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 21

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, legend places a great battle at Ventry, fought in the mythological age of Conn of the hundred fights and other heroes of that same period. The old stories tell of clash and slaughter on this shore, where warriors whose names echo through Irish legend are said to have gathered and fought. Kerry holds many such legends from that far time. There is the story of Curoi of Daire, who carried away Blanaid, the beautiful maid, from the island of Mana to Caherconree, where after a time she treacherously betrayed him into the hands of Cuchullin. There are stories of Finn MacCoul and a warrior named Colman, which the boatmen of Killarney are fond of recounting. And there is the legend of Queen Scota, daughter of Pharaoh and wife of Milidh the Milesian, whose grave is still shown in a wooded glen near Tralee, according to the Annals of the Four Masters. From the 6th century a more defined idea can be formed. Old ruined shrines and beehive huts stand as records of the lives of St Brandon, St Finan, and other saints who spent their lives claiming Ireland for the Cross. When the coming of the Norman warriors is reached, the historic records rest on a firmer foundation.

4. Molahiffe castle of Sir Valentine Browne

   Molahiffe · parish · Kerry · 1583–1603

   Near Molahiffe station, about a mile distant, can be seen the faint outline of a ruined castle where the first Sir Valentine Browne settled himself in the reign of Queen Elizabeth after the Desmond rebellion.

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   On the L. hand side, low hills, wooded in places, run from Cordal in the E. to the Laune River, where they lose themselves in the flats at the base of the high mountains and the wilderness of hills which extends thence to the coast at Cahirciveen and Waterville. Two m. from Farranfore the little station of MolahifFe is passed. On the R. of the line at this point can be seen, about a mile distant, the faint outline of the ruined castle where the first Sir Valentine Browne settled himself in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, after the Desmond rebellion-

   The next station, Castlemaine, was formerly an important frontier post between '' Kerry " and " Desmond " (the two divisions into which the present county was formerly split) ; and the castle, built on the bridge over the Maine, was held alter-

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 79

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through the parish of Molahiffe, there are low hills running from Cordal in the east to the Laune River, where they flatten out at the base of the high mountains. The wilderness of hills stretches from there to the coast at Cahirciveen and Waterville. Near the station here, about a mile off, the faint outline of a ruined castle can still be seen. This is where the first Sir Valentine Browne settled himself in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, after the Desmond rebellion. He came in the years between 1583 and 1603, when Elizabeth held the throne, and he made this place his own in the wake of that war.

5. O'Donoghue's Prison: rock where captives were chained

   Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

   A lone rock standing between Ross Castle and Innisfallen Island on Lough Leane is known as O'Donoghue's Prison. According to tradition, captives were chained to iron weights there.

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   m. distant from the town. The background of mountains and the woods which come close up to its walls make it a conspicuous object from almost every point of view, and it is difficult to say from what point it presents its most attractive appearance. The building probably dates from the close of the 14th century, and it was originally the strong fortress of O'Donoghue Ross, who must not be confounded with O'Donoghue More, the great chief of the sept of O'Donoghue. Many legends cling to the name of this ancient possessor of Ross Castle, and amongst them is that which tells of the foundation of a city beneath the waters of the lake in the land which was called " Tirnan-Oge" or the <* Land of Perpetual Youth." From the Land of Perpetual Youth O'Donoghue is said to revisit the upper world once in seven years, on a morning in May, and mounting his white horse, which for seven years has remained a solitary and immovable rock, he rides over the waters of the great Lough Leane. Luck is believed to attend the person who sees the great chieftain on these rare occasions. Far up on the bare side of the Toomies Mountains lies a little patch of green amidst the brown heather. There the snow lingers longest in springtime, and legend says that <'Parkeen Na Coppal bawn," or the "Field of the White Horse" (as the green spot is called), is the grazing ground of O'Donoghue's steed. The lone rock standing out between the castle and Innisfallen Island is '* O'Donoghue's Prison," where captives were chained to iron weights. A splash of water from the crest of a broken wave is O'Donoghue's blessing. So legend on legend keeps green the memory of the founder of Ross Castle.

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 39

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, on Lough Leane, stands a lone rock between Ross Castle and Innisfallen Island. It is called O'Donoghue's Prison. According to tradition, captives were chained to iron weights on this rock. The name belongs to O'Donoghue Ross, who built Ross Castle as his strong fortress, probably near the close of the 14th century. He must not be confused with O'Donoghue More, the great chief of the sept. Many legends cling to his name. One tells of a city founded beneath the waters of the lake, in a land called "Tir-nan-Oge," or the "Land of Perpetual Youth." From that land O'Donoghue is said to revisit the upper world once in seven years, on a morning in May. He mounts his white horse, which for seven years has remained a solitary and immovable rock, and rides over the waters of the great Lough Leane. Luck is believed to attend the person who sees the great chieftain on these rare occasions. Far up on the bare side of the Toomies Mountains lies a little patch of green amidst the brown heather. There the snow lingers longest in springtime, and legend says that "Parkeen Na Coppal bawn," or the "Field of the White Horse," is the grazing ground of O'Donoghue's steed. And a splash of water from the crest of a broken wave is O'Donoghue's blessing. So legend on legend keeps green the memory of the founder of Ross Castle.

6. Ratass ruined chapel near Tralee, Cyclopean doorway

   Ratass · townland · Kerry

   About half a mile from Tralee on the road to Castleisland, a small ruined chapel called Ratass stands in a cemetery, its doorway a celebrated specimen of Cyclopean masonry. The site is passed on the left-hand side of the road leaving Tralee.

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   (8) Tralee to Glounaneenty. The low range of hills which stretch from near Tralee to the eastern bounds of the county of Kerry, bringing to mind a line of African kopjes with their passes or ^' neks," contains one point called the Knight's Mountain— faint echo from the feudal days. Not far from this point lies the scene of the last tragedy connected with the pathetic story of the house of Desmond. The road from Tralee to Castleisland ( 1 1 m. ) or Killarney (20 m.) passes the cemetery about half-a-mile from the town on the L. hand side of the road. There is to be seen a small ruined chapel called Ratass, the doorway of which is a somewhat celebrated specimen of Cyclopean masonry. Continuing along this road past the Poor House on the L., a good road leads due E., where the woods of Ballyseedy are passed (3 m.), and shortly after the cross-road on the R., which leads to Ballyseedy House, the home of the Blennerhassetts. From

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, close to Ratass, a small ruined chapel stands in a cemetery about half a mile from Tralee. The chapel is called Ratass, and its doorway is a somewhat celebrated specimen of Cyclopean masonry. The road from Tralee to Castleisland passes the cemetery. The low range of hills stretching from near Tralee to the eastern bounds of Kerry brings to mind a line of African kopjes with their passes. One point along these hills is called the Knight's Mountain, a faint echo from feudal days. Not far from that point lies the scene of the last tragedy connected with the story of the house of Desmond. Continuing along this road, you pass the Poor House. A good road leads east where the woods of Ballyseedy are passed. Shortly after, a cross-road leads to Ballyseedy House, the home of the Blennerhassetts.

7. Torc Waterfall celebrated cascade

   near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

   Torc Cascade is a justly celebrated waterfall near Muckross, attractive even in dry weather and magnificent in flood. A pathway leads to the top of the hill above the fall, and a delightful walk through pine woods to Muckross is called the Queen's Drive.

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   Tore Waterfall. One m. along this road from the point above mentioned, the eottage on the right marks another entrance to Muckross Park, and close at hand is the door and path leading to Tore Cascade. This beautiful fall is justly celebrated, and even in comparatively dry weather presents an attractive sight. In floodtime it would be hard to exaggerate the grandeur of the scene. The first view of the cascade is from the foot straight facing the gorge and ridge over which the water passes ; but a pathway leads to the top of the hill above the fall, and it is well worth the climb to view the scenery from the higher level. A delightful walk leads from the top of the ridge through the pine woods to Muckross. This route is called the "Queen's Drive."

   Killarney to the Gap of Dunloe and the Upper Lake, One of the recognised tours from Killarney is that which extends through the Gap of Dunloe and thence to the head of the Upper Lake at Geeramen, where boats previously sent up the chain of lakes meet visitors and convey them homewards by way of the Long Range, the " Meeting of the Waters," and Lough Leane. There are two ways of enjoying this expedition. The first by car along the main road from Killarney to the cross road beyond Lake View House (3 m.), thence to the left over the wooden bridge

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 44

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Torc Waterfall, a celebrated cascade falls over a gorge and ridge in the hills of Kerry. The path to it begins close at hand from the road, near a cottage that marks an entrance to Muckross Park. You see the fall first from the foot, looking straight at the gorge and the ridge the water passes over. Even in comparatively dry weather it is an attractive sight. In floodtime the grandeur of the scene would be hard to exaggerate. A pathway climbs to the top of the hill above the fall, and the book says it is well worth the climb to view the scenery from that higher level. From the top of the ridge, a walk leads through pine woods to Muckross. That route is called the Queen's Drive. The fall is described as justly celebrated, and the walk through the pines as delightful. The higher view from the hilltop looks out over the same gorge and ridge seen at the foot, now laid open from above.

8. Valentia Island cliffs towering 600 feet from Atlantic

   near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

   The cliffs on the island of Valentia rise up 600 feet from the Atlantic Ocean, forming part of the varied and dramatic coast scenery of Kerry. These are noted among the wild coastal features of the county.

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   The coast scenery, if equalled in other counties, is certainly not surpassed for variety and beauty. Tiiere are the wild storm-beaten cliffs from Brandon Head around by Ballydavid and Sybil Heads and Dunmore, in the barony of Corkaguiny, and around thence to Inch; there are the cliffs on the island of Valencia, towering up 600 ft. from the Atlantic; there are the lower headlands and secluded bays and creeks where the silver sand is fringed with the white foam of the breakers coming in clean and clear from the great '* beyond." Lastly, there are the islands

   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 2

   As the companion tells it

   Valentia Island holds some of the wildest coast in Kerry. Its cliffs rise 600 feet straight from the Atlantic. One book on the county says the coast scenery, if equalled elsewhere, is certainly not surpassed for variety and beauty. The wild storm-beaten cliffs run from Brandon Head around by Ballydavid and Sybil Heads and Dunmore, in the barony of Corkaguiny, and around to Inch. There are lower headlands too, and secluded bays and creeks where silver sand is fringed with white foam from breakers rolling in clean and clear from the great beyond.

9. Castlemaine frontier castle history

   Castlemaine · town · Kerry · 1578–1649

   Castlemaine castle, built on the bridge over the Maine, was a frontier post between Kerry and Desmond, held alternately by the MacCarthy More and Desmond Geraldines until 1578. It was besieged and taken by the Irish in 1641, and probably destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers.

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   The next station, Castlemaine, was formerly an important frontier post between '' Kerry " and " Desmond " (the two divisions into which the present county was formerly split) ; and the castle, built on the bridge over the Maine, was held alter-

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   Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 79

   As the companion tells it

   Castlemaine was once a frontier post between Kerry and Desmond, the two divisions into which this county was formerly split. A castle stood on the bridge over the Maine, held alternately by the MacCarthy More and the Desmond Geraldines until 1578. The Irish besieged and took it in 1641, and Cromwell's soldiers probably destroyed it.

10. Derrycunihy waterfall through oak and birch

    Derrycunihy · townland · Kerry

    Near Derrycunihy Cottage on the Upper Lake, a short walk up the Derrycunihy River reveals a waterfall descending from the hills through an overhanging tangle of oaks and birch trees. The cottage has a landing stage accessible by boat.

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    Derrycunihy Cottage, situated in the woods on the R. side of the lake. A boat can go within a few yards of this cottage, where there is a landingstage, and a short walk up the little Derrycunihy River brings to view the waterfall which comes from the hills through an overhanging tangle of oaks and birch trees. Boats have the Upper Lake by an intricate passage called " Colman's Eye," where the giant or hero Colman is said to have leapt across the narrow channel and left his footprints, of no mean size, in the rocks. When going through the Long Range a sharp look-out should be kept for the sight of a stag or hind, especially in the evening, when they leave the woods and come out in the open to feed. Eagle's Nest, which towers up almost perpendicularly from the wooded shores of the calm water, is a fine point from which to look back up the Long Range. There are many outlines of distance to be seen from this place, and these, with the foreground of water and heather, make a charming picture. In front, as the boat proceeds, is Sheehy Mountain, and the long glen thickly clothed with woods, which stretches from Eagle's Nest to the folds of the Purple Mountain and Glena.

    Shooting the rapids is one of the features of this water journey, and in full flood-time is an exciting experience, the boats rushing under the arch of the old weir bridge into the still circle of the " Meeting of the Waters." Here it is well to rest on the oars, and, turning back, look at the view of the bridge with its shadowing trees and the background of mountains ; or, landing for a few moments, visit the cottage of Dinas, where tea is to be obtained,

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Derrycunihy, there is a cottage in the woods on the shore of the Upper Lake. A boat can come within a few yards of it, where there is a landing stage. From there, a short walk up the little Derrycunihy River brings you to view the waterfall. It comes down from the hills through an overhanging tangle of oaks and birch trees. Boats reach the Upper Lake through an intricate passage called Colman's Eye. The giant or hero Colman is said to have leapt across the narrow channel and left his footprints in the rocks, of no mean size. Going through the Long Range, a sharp look-out should be kept for a stag or hind, especially in the evening, when they leave the woods and come out in the open to feed. Eagle's Nest towers up almost perpendicularly from the wooded shores of the calm water, a fine point from which to look back up the Long Range. There are many outlines of distance to be seen from this place, and these, with the foreground of water and heather, make a charming picture. In front, as the boat proceeds, is Sheehy Mountain, and the long glen thickly clothed with woods, which stretches from Eagle's Nest to the folds of the Purple Mountain and Glena.

11. Minard Castle near Auniscaul

    Minard Castle · castle · Kerry

    Minard Castle, located four miles from Auniscaul and off the line of railway, is noted as a worthwhile stop along the coast route from Inch to Dingle. The surrounding coastal road is described as a veritable Riviera road with wild thyme and heather.

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    going by this coast route is, that an opportunity can be taken of visiting Minard Castle, 4 m. from Auniscaul, and off the line of railway.

    II. Dingle, surrounded almost by hills and on the shores of a shallow harbour, was once an important seaport town, enjoying a considerable trade with Spain. Queen Elizabeth, in 1585, granted a charter to the town, and gave it the same privileges enjoyed by the town of Drogheda. She also gave ^300 to defray the cost of walling the town. James I. renewed its privileges, and gave it a charter to elect a "Sovereign" on St James's Day. A sword and mace were carried before this important person, and he was empowered to act as Justice of the Peace and Coroner, and had a considerable share of authority. At the present day there is Httle to remind visitors of past greatness. The fishing trade still flourishes, and the fine fleet of trawlers is evidence of the enterprise of the hardy sailor fishermen of this ancient seaport. On the hill, facing the entrance to the town from the E., stands the Catholic church, built of warm red sandstone, and in very good taste. Attached to it is the Presentation Convent. On the opposite slope, and on the R. of the railway station, is the school and religious house belonging to the Christian Brothers.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 86

    As the companion tells it

    A castle worth a stop, Minard Castle, standing four miles from Auniscaul and off the line of railway. The coast route from Inch to Dingle has been described as a veritable Riviera road, with wild thyme and heather along the way.

12. Presentation Convent lace and needlework school in Killarney

    Killarney · townland · Kerry

    A school of lace and needlework was attached to the Presentation Convent in Killarney, with specimens available for viewing on application. This represented one of several charitable educational institutions clustered around the Cathedral.

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    (2) Attached to the Presentation Convent is a school of lace and needlework, specimens of which can be seen on application.

    (3) Almost opposite the gate of the Presentation Convent is the *' Castlerosse School of Industry," which comprises a school for wood-carving and also a school of domestic economy. The carving school was started in the year 1894 by Lady Castlerosse. Continuing our walk through the grounds of the Cathedral and past the palace of the Bishop of Kerry, we come to a road fringed by lime trees, and turning to the R. about two hundred yards or so we see on the L. the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy, where also is a school for girls. Again turning to the R., we enter the town by the N. W. end of the Main Street, and passing the small, unpretentious, red brick Town Hall, built in i860 by the Earl of Kenmare for the benefit of the town, we come to the Protestant Episcopal Church on the left-hand side, opposite the Munster and Leinster Bank. This church, with its graceful white spire, is of quite modern architecture. It contains a fine organ, good stainedglass windows, memorials to various members of the family of Herbert of Cahirnane, and also a tablet to the memory of the wife of an officer (Captain Turner) who died at Ross Castle in 1825, and of whom it is said on the tablet she was " all that is aimable [sic) in Woman." But of old monuments, tombstones, or records the church is destitute — being a comparatively new edifice. Visitors will not remain long in the town of Killarney when the

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 37

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Killarney, there was a school of lace and needlework attached to the Presentation Convent. Specimens of the work could be seen on application. It was one of several charitable educational institutions clustered around the Cathedral grounds. Nearly opposite the gate of the Presentation Convent stood the Castlerosse School of Industry, which included a school for wood-carving and a school of domestic economy. The carving school was started in 1894 by Lady Castlerosse. A walk through the Cathedral grounds, past the palace of the Bishop of Kerry, brought you to a road fringed by lime trees. A turn brought the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy into view, where there was also a school for girls. These schools, taken together, formed a network of education and trade training in the heart of Killarney. The lace and needlework school at the Presentation Convent was part of that wider effort. The book notes only that specimens could be seen on application, and says nothing further of its teachers, its pupils, or its founding. What survives is the fact of the place and its purpose.

13. Sneem Bridge and village described

    Sneem · town · Kerry

    Sneem Bridge is described as particularly beautiful in evening light, with the setting sun glowing on the hill-sides and the little campanile. The village is built in irregular form with a fine open space, and chief interest centres round the chapel and bridge.

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    planting breaks the scenery, save along the lower reaches of the Blackwater River. But: when Sneem is reached the wooded promontories and islands come in view, and the landscape changes its character. The little village, built in an irregular form, with a fine open space, is of the ordinary character, and the chief interest centres round the chapel and bridge. Two m. E. from Sneem is Parknasilla, meaning the "meadow of willows,'' and the residence of a former bishop of Limerick, now turned into an hotel. The view from the Southern Hotel, a modern structure built in a commanding position, is attractive from the combination of wood and sea and mountain which meets the eye at every point. To the W. lies Sherky Island, between which and the mainland is a good anchorage, where His Majesty's destroyer flotilla frequently lies. A mile to the N.W. is Garinish Island, where Lord Dunraven has a house surrounded by a variety of heaths and shrubs which make the resemblance to the Riviera of this secluded quarter more marked than ever.

    I. Sneem to Rossdohan. One of the most interesting places in the neighbourhood of Sneem is Rossdohan Island, belonging to Mr Heard. Here, within a comparatively few years, a barren island has become a paradise of rare shrubs and plants from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. The Austrian pines which have been planted, and flourish, give shelter to a number of wattles, blue gums, Australian bottlebrush, dracsenas, and a host of rare things. Here also the Datura flowers in the open. Should permission be granted to view these beautiful grounds, the lover of plants and flowers will find a world of interest.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    When you reach Sneem, the landscape changes. The wooded promontories and islands come into view, and the scenery takes on a different character. The little village itself is built in an irregular form, with a fine open space at its heart. The book calls it of the ordinary character, but says the chief interest centres round the chapel and the bridge. Two miles east of Sneem is Parknasilla, the name meaning the meadow of willows. It was once the residence of a former bishop of Limerick and is now turned into a hotel. The Southern Hotel stands in a commanding position, and the view from it is attractive for the combination of wood and sea and mountain that meets the eye at every point. To the west lies Sherky Island, between which and the mainland is a good anchorage, where His Majesty's destroyer flotilla frequently lies. A mile to the north-west is Garinish Island, where Lord Dunraven has a house surrounded by a variety of heaths and shrubs. One of the most interesting places in the neighbourhood is Rossdohan Island, belonging to Mr Heard. Within a comparatively few years, a barren island has become a paradise of rare shrubs and plants from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. Austrian pines planted there flourish and give shelter to wattles, blue gums, Australian bottlebrush, dracaenas, and a host of rare things. The Datura flowers there in the open.

14. St Michael's well and pattern at Ballinskelligs

    Ballinskelligs · townland · Kerry

    Near the village of Ballinskelligs, about one and a half miles east, is the well of St Michael where a pattern or festa in honour of the saint is held each year.

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    Near the village of Ballinskelligs is the well of St Michael (i|^ m. E.), where a «' pattern " or festa in honour of the saint is held each year.

    Hard by the old abbey on a low sandspit stands a ruined castle built to guard the haven. From the abbey a fine view of sea and mountain presents itself, extending from the Iveragh Mountains along to the S.E. to Knockaline, and thence S. by Coomakista to Hog's Head and ScarifF Island. A small island at the entrance of Ballinskelligs Bay gives shelter to a tolerably safe anchorage for the fishing-boats which come periodically to these waters. Ballinskelligs possesses a station of the " Direct United States " Telegraph Company, and a good hotel which, facing S., gets the full benefit of the sun. In the sheltered sandy caves near the village fair bathing is possible, and few pleasanter localities for a sojourn can be imagined than the neighbourhood of this bright, clean village, with its interesting ruined abbey and its beautiful sea. The return

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Ballinskelligs, is the well of St Michael. Each year a pattern, or festa, is held there in honour of the saint. Hard by the old abbey on a low sandspit stands a ruined castle, built to guard the haven. From the abbey a fine view opens out across sea and mountain, from the Iveragh Mountains southeast to Knockaline, then south by Coomakista to Hog's Head and Scariff Island. A small island at the entrance of Ballinskelligs Bay shelters a tolerably safe anchorage for the fishing-boats that come periodically to these waters. Ballinskelligs has a station of the Direct United States Telegraph Company, and a good hotel facing south that gets the full benefit of the sun. In the sheltered sandy caves near the village, fair bathing is possible.

15. Subterranean houses and beehive huts near Ventry

    Ventry · townland · Kerry

    Near the road to Ventry are antiquarian remains of subterranean houses and beehive huts, also called cloghanes. These prehistoric structures represent the interesting antiquarian remains found along the Slea Head route.

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    view Mount Eagle (1695 ft.), and Marhin Peak (1357 ft.), and the wave- washed sands of Ventry, a truly beautiful view. On the R. of the road are some interesting antiquarian remains of subterranean houses, beehive huts, or " cloghanes."

    Ventry village (4 m.) consists of a small number of houses which look right over the harbour to the coastguard station on the far side. A short distance beyond the village the road for Slea Head turns to the L., that going straight N. leading to Rahinane Castle, and eventually by a wild mountain track, with a fair surface, to Ballyferriter and Smerwick harbour.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Ventry there are subterranean houses and beehive huts, also called cloghanes. These are interesting antiquarian remains. The view takes in Mount Eagle at 1695 feet, Marhin Peak at 1357 feet, and the wave-washed sands of Ventry. The village has a small number of houses looking over the harbour to the coastguard station on the far side. Beyond the village, the road for Slea Head turns off, while the road going straight north leads to Rahinane Castle, and eventually by a wild mountain track, with a fair surface, to Ballyferriter and Smerwick harbour.

16. Parknasilla, former bishop's residence turned hotel

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    Parknasilla, meaning 'meadow of willows,' was the residence of a former bishop of Limerick and had been converted into a hotel. The Southern Hotel, a modern structure built in a commanding position, offered attractive views combining wood, sea, and mountain.

    Read the passage

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    planting breaks the scenery, save along the lower reaches of the Blackwater River. But: when Sneem is reached the wooded promontories and islands come in view, and the landscape changes its character. The little village, built in an irregular form, with a fine open space, is of the ordinary character, and the chief interest centres round the chapel and bridge. Two m. E. from Sneem is Parknasilla, meaning the "meadow of willows,'' and the residence of a former bishop of Limerick, now turned into an hotel. The view from the Southern Hotel, a modern structure built in a commanding position, is attractive from the combination of wood and sea and mountain which meets the eye at every point. To the W. lies Sherky Island, between which and the mainland is a good anchorage, where His Majesty's destroyer flotilla frequently lies. A mile to the N.W. is Garinish Island, where Lord Dunraven has a house surrounded by a variety of heaths and shrubs which make the resemblance to the Riviera of this secluded quarter more marked than ever.

    I. Sneem to Rossdohan. One of the most interesting places in the neighbourhood of Sneem is Rossdohan Island, belonging to Mr Heard. Here, within a comparatively few years, a barren island has become a paradise of rare shrubs and plants from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. The Austrian pines which have been planted, and flourish, give shelter to a number of wattles, blue gums, Australian bottlebrush, dracsenas, and a host of rare things. Here also the Datura flowers in the open. Should permission be granted to view these beautiful grounds, the lover of plants and flowers will find a world of interest.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    A former bishop's residence turned hotel, Parknasilla takes its name from the Irish for meadow of willows. It lies two miles east of Sneem, a little village built in an irregular form with a fine open space, of the ordinary character, where the chief interest centres round the chapel and bridge. When Sneem is reached, the wooded promontories and islands come into view, and the landscape changes. The Southern Hotel at Parknasilla, a modern structure built in a commanding position, offers attractive views combining wood, sea, and mountain at every point. To the west lies Sherky Island, between which and the mainland is a good anchorage where His Majesty's destroyer flotilla frequently lies. A mile to the northwest is Garinish Island, where Lord Dunraven has a house surrounded by a variety of heaths and shrubs making the resemblance to the Riviera of this secluded quarter more marked than ever. One of the most interesting places in the neighbourhood of Sneem is Rossdohan Island, belonging to Mr Heard. Within a comparatively few years, a barren island has become a paradise of rare shrubs and plants from Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. Austrian pines planted there flourish and give shelter to wattles, blue gums, Australian bottlebrush, dracaenas, and a host of rare things. The Datura flowers there in the open. Should permission be granted to view these grounds, the lover of plants and flowers will find a world of interest.

17. Abbeydorney abbey ruins called Kyrie Eleison

    Abbeydorney · town · Kerry

    At Abbeydorney, on the left side of the railway line from Tralee to Listowel, the ruins of the ancient abbey can be seen, formerly called "Kyrie Eleison." The abbey is noted as one of the antiquities of Kerry described in the guide.

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    The ^' Stacks" Mountains are seen on the R. of the train from the vicinity of Ardfert and Abbeydorney, and the plain of bog and pasture-land then opens out in a wide sweep to the E., bounded by the distant, low, Glanaruddery Hills. On the L. hand side of the line beyond Ardfert can be seen the woods surrounding the house of Mr Talbot Crosbie ; and at Abbeydorney on the L. can be seen the ruins of the ancient abbey, formerly called *^ Kyrie Eleison," of which an account will be found in Chapter VIII. of this Guide. At Lixnaw, on a windy hilltop on the L. of the railway line, is seen the neglected tomb of the Earl of Kerry rising bare against the sky — a landmark for miles and miles over the flat land.

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes through Abbeydorney in Kerry. The ruins of an ancient abbey stand here, formerly called Kyrie Eleison. The guide describes it among the antiquities of Kerry, with an account in its pages. The Stacks Mountains rise nearby, and a plain of bog and pasture-land opens out to the east, bounded by the distant, low Glanaruddery Hills. The railway line from Tralee to Listowel runs through this country, and the old abbey is one of the landmarks along it. Not much more is recorded here than the name and the fact of its ruins, but the name itself carries something. Kyrie Eleison means Lord have mercy, and whatever was prayed in that abbey in its day, the words stayed with the place long after the walls came down.

18. Ash trees on Innisfallen Island

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

    Ash trees grow to a great size on Innisfallen Island, though they are considered an unsatisfactory tree species because the damp local climate affects them more than other trees as they age.

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    Trees, — Scots firs, oak, beech, ash, silver birch, larch, and holly are the chief trees to be met with around Killarney, and in fact throughout all Kerry. The ash attains great size at Innisfallen Island, but it is an unsatisfactory tree. When age creeps on the damp climate aflPects it more than other trees. Remnants of the old forest growth are found in the stunted oak coppices in many a wild glen, and the cut away bogs all through the county display the remains of old forests in the hardened stumps and roots of fir trees bedded deep in the turf mould. This " bog wood " is cut up and sold to make excellent firing throughout the country houses and cottages of Kerry.

    Insects, — Amongst the butterflies to be found in Kerry are the following, which however are not commonly met with : the " painted lady " and the "clouded yellow." Of moths there are the

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Innisfallen, ash trees grow to a great size. The island is known for it. But the ash is an unsatisfactory tree. When age creeps on, the damp climate affects it more than other trees. Scots firs, oak, beech, ash, silver birch, larch, and holly are the chief trees around Killarney and throughout all Kerry. Remnants of the old forest growth survive in the stunted oak coppices in many a wild glen. The cut-away bogs all through the county display the remains of old forests in the hardened stumps and roots of fir trees bedded deep in the turf mould. This bog wood is cut up and sold to make excellent firing throughout the country houses and cottages of Kerry.

19. Ballybeggan Castle relieved in 1643

    Ballybeggan · townland · Kerry · 1643

    Ballybeggan Castle held out against confederate forces until 1643, when it was relieved by Captain Bridges, sent by Lord Inchiquin to Tralee. By this time most of the Irish confederates had joined Lord Muskerry.

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    In 1826, the Sir Edward Denny of the day finally demolished the building to make way for the improvement of the town. Ballybeggan Castle held out till 1643, when it was relieved by

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere near here stood Ballybeggan Castle. It held out against confederate forces until 1643, when Captain Bridges, sent by Lord Inchiquin to Tralee, relieved it. By then most of the Irish confederates had joined Lord Muskerry. In 1826, Sir Edward Denny finally demolished the building to make way for improvement of the town.

20. Barrow Castle ruins and oyster beds

    Barrow · townland · Kerry

    At Barrow, two miles east of Fenit, are the ruins of Barrow Castle, built to guard the narrow entrance to Barrow Harbour, a shallow haven only ships of light draught can enter. Excellent oyster beds of the Messrs M'Cowan are also located there.

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    Near the mouth of the harbour is the Samphire Lighthouse. It is only a local guide to the ■{ harbour of Fenit and to the channel leading up to * Tralee. A substantial pier and breakwater connects the mainland with an outlying island, and the water in the basin, where the freighted ships lie, is kept to a suitable depth by dredging. Fenit, having direct railway communication with Tralee, and so with Dublin, Cork, and Limerick, should be an important port in the future, when, as is hoped, wealth and trade and general prosperity come to Ireland. At Barrow (2 m.), E. of Fenit, are the excellent oyster beds of the Messrs M*Cowan, and there also are to be seen the ruins of Barrow Castle, one of the numerous strongholds which tell the tale of Ireland so eloquently. This particular castle was built to guard the narrow entrance to Barrow Harbour, a shallow haven which only ships of light draught can enter.

    Fenit to Ardfert, A pleasant drive of 4 m. through a happy, prosperous-looking land leads past the desolate ruins of Rahinane Castle, where a certain Bishop Fuller took up his abode in the exciting days of 1641. When Lord Kerry fled to England, 'and Tralee was sore beset by the confederate forces, the O'Kellys, O'Dorans, and O'Lawlers swooped down from the country around Causeway, where they had been deported in previous years, and sacked and burnt the Cathedral of Ardfert and Rahinane.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Near here, close to Barrow, are the ruins of Barrow Castle and the excellent oyster beds of the Messrs M'Cowan. The castle was built to guard the narrow entrance to Barrow Harbour, a shallow haven which only ships of light draught can enter. Barrow lies about 2 miles east of Fenit. Near the mouth of that harbour stands the Samphire Lighthouse, a local guide to the harbour of Fenit and to the channel leading up to Tralee. A substantial pier and breakwater connects the mainland with an outlying island, and the water in the basin, where the freighted ships lie, is kept to a suitable depth by dredging. Fenit has direct railway communication with Tralee, and so with Dublin, Cork, and Limerick. It should be an important port in the future, when wealth and trade and general prosperity come to Ireland. The drive from Fenit toward Ardfert, about 4 miles through a prosperous-looking land, leads past the desolate ruins of Rahinane Castle, where a Bishop Fuller took up his abode in the days of 1641. When Lord Kerry fled to England and Tralee was under pressure from the confederate forces, the O'Kellys, O'Dorans, and O'Lawlers came down from the country around Causeway, where they had been deported in previous years, and sacked and burnt the Cathedral of Ardfert and Rahinane.

21. Former slate quarries on Valencia Island

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    Valencia Island once had a large slate quarrying industry that has ceased in recent years. The quarries overlooking the sea remain as evidence of past success.

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    Mining and Quarrying. — Of mining there is none at the present time. Formerly there were copper mines in various parts of the county, and of late years sundry efforts have been made to "prospect" for further mining operations, but without much result. Quarrying is of the elementary type necessary for the building of cottages and houses, and the mending of roads. Years ago there was a large industry connected with the slate quarries in Valencia Island, but of late years this has ceased. The quarries overlooking the sea remain gaunt witness to the success of the past.

    VII. History

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Valencia Island once held a large slate quarrying industry. That work has ceased of late years. The quarries overlooking the sea remain, in the words of the record, "gaunt witness to the success of the past." There is no mining in Kerry now. Years ago copper mines worked in various parts of the county, and efforts have been made to prospect for further mining, but without much result. The quarrying carried on now is the elementary kind, necessary for building cottages and houses and mending roads.

22. Friary of Lough Leane repaired

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry · 1604

    The Friary of Lough Leane near Killarney was repaired in 1604, a peaceful development after decades of fighting in Kerry.

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    pleasant to read that the Friary of Lough Leane, near Killarney, was repaired in 1604. In 161 1 the town of Tralee received its Charter. In 1615 Lord Kerry made a humble submission to King James for the offence of himself and his father, and was pardoned, and his estates confirmed to him by letters patent. The FitzMaurices became ardent loyalists, so that when in 1641 Florence MacCarthy assumed the title of Governor of Kerry, and raised troops for the confederate Catholics, Warham St Leger, the President of Munster, appointed Lord Kerry governor of the county on behalf of the king.

    When the revolt broke out this Lord Kerry only got arms for 124 men, and made an unfortunate selection of the officers for his forces — Pierce Ferriter of Castle Sybil, near Ballyferriter, Donagh Macgillycuddy, O'Donoghue of Glenilesk, MacEliigott of Bally MacElligott, and Walter Hussey of Castlegregory. All these men deserted to the side of the confederate Irish and assisted in harassing the English settlers. These English settlers were in sore straits in 1641. Castlemaine was taken by Daniel MacCarthy, and on the march of the confederate forces to Tralee, many of the gentry went off to join the Lord President St Leger, whilst others fortified their strong places and prepared to resist.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 27

23. Hospital, Limerick, named from Knights Hospitallers

    Hospital · town · Limerick · 1172

    The place called Hospital in County Limerick takes its name from a community of Knights Hospitallers founded there by Geoffrey de Marisco, who came to Ireland with Henry II in 1172.

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    what monotonous, by reason of its straightness, affords on a fine day good views of sea and mountains. Two m. to the E. of Inch can be seen on the right the pretty new house belonging to Major John MacGillycuddy, which has the advantage of an unrivalled view. The railway route, after passing Castlemaine (2 m.), leads to Milltown, a sleepy Httle market-town, where are the remains of an old abbey called Kilcolman. Here is the residence of Sir William Godfrey. This abbey of Kilcolman, formerly called the Priory of Kylla, must not be confounded with the Kilcolman where Spenser dwelt, and dreamed the poem of the "Faery Queen." The home of the poet was in the county of Cork, not far from Buttevant. This Kilcolman Abbey is not very remarkable. It can be seen on the L. hand side of the railway after passing Milltown Station. Kilcolman means the Church of S. Colman. This Abbey or Priory is said to have been founded by Geoffrey de Marisco, who came over with Henry II. in 1172. He also built Castle Island Castle, and founded a community of Knights Hospitallers in the County Limerick, from which fact the place called Hospital takes its name.

    Killorglin. Killorglin, the next station, is a small country town pleasantly situated on the banks of the Laune, which here broadens out into a wide estuary. There is nothing very remarkable about this little town. A bit of the old castle, said to have been founded by the Knights Templars, still stands near the W. end of the fine stone bridge which spans the river ; and the newly built Roman Catholic church, which is a conspicuous object on the hill, is well worth visiting, the

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Hospital in County Limerick carries its name from a community of Knights Hospitallers founded there by Geoffrey de Marisco. He came to Ireland with Henry the Second in 1172. The same Geoffrey de Marisco also built Castle Island Castle and founded a priory or abbey called Kilcolman, near Milltown, in Kerry. Kilcolman means the Church of Saint Colman. That abbey is not to be confused with another Kilcolman, the one in County Cork not far from Buttevant, where the poet Spenser lived and dreamed the poem of the Faery Queen. The Kilcolman that de Marisco founded is described as not very remarkable. It stands near Milltown, a sleepy little market town. Milltown itself lies along the railway route past Castlemaine. The abbey can be seen from the railway after passing Milltown Station. The line before that runs straight and monotonous but on a fine day gives good views of sea and mountains. Two miles east of Inch, a pretty new house belonging to Major John MacGillycuddy can be seen, with what is called an unrivalled view. So de Marisco, arriving with the king in 1172, left his mark in more than one place. But it is the Knights Hospitallers he planted in County Limerick that gave this town its name.

24. Innisfallen 'bed of honour' limestone slab

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

    A flat upright slab of limestone at the western end of Innisfallen Island is known as the 'bed of honour' and is among the sights recommended to tourists visiting Killarney. The island is of limestone formation and grows some of the largest hollies and ash trees in the district.

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    wards Ross Castle. This oratory is of about the same date as the old church at Aghadoe, though in all probability an older foundation existed here prior to the Romanesque period of architecture. A walk round Innisfallen Island affords the most pleasing succession of views of Lough Leane to be found in the whole neighbourhood of Killarney. A flat upright slab of limestone at the extreme W. end of the island goes by the name of the " bed of honour/' and is one of the sights recommended to tourists visiting Killarney. From this point Brown Island can be seen to the W., and the low shores of the lake from Lake View House and on by Mahony's Point backed by the woods of Aghadoe. The name Innisfallen is said to be *' Inis-Faithlenn," island of Faithlenn — a man's name, according to Dr Joyce. Its formation is limestone, and on it grow some of the largest hollies and ash trees to be found in the district.

    Innisfallen in the yth century was an abode of religion and learning. The Venerable Bede mentions it in his "Church History," and gives a pleasing picture of the generous hospitality of the monks in the days when St Finan and Coleman were bishops. He tells how men of high rank amongst the English left their native land and retired to this island for religious instruction, and how the monks received them willingly and maintained them free of expense. It is with the name of St Finan Lothar or the Leper that Innisfallen is chiefly connected. He was a son of the King of Munster, and a disciple of St Brandon, and the following is a beautiful legend as to the manner in which he obtained his name, the " Leper " : — The saint of Innisfallen possessed a marvellous

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Innisfallen, there is an island in Lough Leane. At its western end stands a flat upright slab of limestone, known as the bed of honour, one of the sights recommended to tourists visiting Killarney. From that point you can see Brown Island to the west, and the low shores of the lake stretching from Lake View House on by Mahony's Point, backed by the woods of Aghadoe. The island is limestone formation, and on it grow some of the largest hollies and ash trees to be found in the district. The name Innisfallen is said to come from Inis-Faithlenn, the island of Faithlenn, a man's name, according to Dr Joyce. In the 7th century Innisfallen was an abode of religion and learning. The Venerable Bede mentions it in his Church History, and gives a pleasing picture of the generous hospitality of the monks in the days when St Finan and Coleman were bishops. He tells how men of high rank amongst the English left their native land and retired to this island for religious instruction, and how the monks received them willingly and maintained them free of expense. It is with the name of St Finan Lothar, or the Leper, that Innisfallen is chiefly connected. He was a son of the King of Munster, and a disciple of St Brandon.

25. Kerry held by Gaelic septs c. 1172

    Kerry · county · Kerry · 1172

    Around 1172, the county of Kerry was divided among several Gaelic septs: O'Connors in the north, MacCarthy More, O'Sullivan More, and O'Donoghue in the centre, and O'Sullivan Beare along the Kenmare River in the south.

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    When the period of the coming of the Norman warriors is reached the historic records rest on a firmer foundation. The tribal wars between the O'Sullivans, O'Donoghues, O'Connors, and MacCarthys widen out into broader vistas, and a fairly defined path runs through the whole. At that time, i.e. about the year 1172, the present county of Kerry was held by the sept of O'Connors in the N., MacCarthy More, O'SuUivan More, and O'Donoghue in the centre, whilst O' Sullivan Beare, the great chieftain of West Cork, held a strip of South Kerry along the shores of the Kenmare River. There were also minor septs or clans — O'Talveys and M'Gillicuddys, O'Connells and O'Mahonys, the latter being an offshoot of

    39

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Around the year 1172, the county of Kerry was held by several Gaelic septs. The O'Connors held the north. MacCarthy More, O'Sullivan More, and O'Donoghue held the centre. O'Sullivan Beare, the great chieftain of West Cork, held a strip of South Kerry along the shores of the Kenmare River. There were also minor septs — the O'Talveys, the M'Gillicuddys, the O'Connells, and the O'Mahonys, the latter being an offshoot of a larger line. The tribal wars between the O'Sullivans, O'Donoghues, O'Connors, and MacCarthys were already running, and when the Norman warriors came, the records grow firmer. The fighting widened out, and a fairly defined path runs through the whole of it.

26. Lickeen House and Blackstones Bridge on Caragh Lake

    Lickeen · townland · Kerry

    The Bridge of Lickeen, also called Blackstones Bridge, crosses the Glencar River where it rushes white with foam through dark rocks. Lickeen House stands nearby on flat land bordering a long inlet from Caragh Lake.

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    It is worth while to stop at this point, where the Glencar River rushes white with foam through the dark, warm-coloured rocks, and, if time permits, to wander a short distance up the banks of the river to enjoy the unrivalled combination of wood and water and mountain scenery. A few yards beyond the bridge on the R. stands Lickeen House, on the flat land which borders the long inlet from Caragh Lake. After passing Lickeen House the road partakes more of the character of a bridle-path winding and rising and falling through a tangle of birch and holly trees and mossy boulders covered with ferns. It is an attractive journey, particularly in springtime, when the violets and primroses are in flower and the woods are full of the songs of birds. After about half-a-mile the woods begin to get thin, and as the *' Slieve " opens out the road begins to rise steeper and steeper up the mountain side to the " Windy Gap." There is no missing this track, as it can be seen winding clearly up the side of the mountain. But it taxes the energies to push a bicycle up the rough incline, even though ample reward is obtained by the view from the summit. Standing in the " Windy Gap," 1098 ft. above the sea, and looking back across the Vale of Glencar, there is a fine view of the W. side of Carrantuohill and all the mountains L 161

    KERRY

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 82

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Lickeen, the Glencar River rushes white with foam through dark, warm-coloured rocks. The bridge here is known as Blackstones Bridge, and Lickeen House stands on flat land bordering a long inlet from Caragh Lake. It is worth stopping where the river comes through those rocks. If time permits, a short walk up the river banks gives what the old guide calls an unrivalled combination of wood and water and mountain scenery. Beyond the house, the road takes on the character of a bridle-path, winding and rising and falling through a tangle of birch and holly trees, and mossy boulders covered with ferns. The journey is attractive, particularly in springtime, when the violets and primroses are in flower and the woods are full of the songs of birds. After about half a mile the woods begin to thin. As the Slieve opens out, the road rises steeper and steeper up the mountain side to the Windy Gap. There is no missing this track. It can be seen winding clearly up the side of the mountain. It taxes the energies to push a bicycle up the rough incline, though ample reward is obtained by the view from the summit. Standing in the Windy Gap, 1098 ft above the sea, and looking back across the Vale of Glencar, there is a fine view of the west side of Carrantuohill and all the mountains.

27. Lixnaw House described by Dr Smith, 1774

    Lixnaw · town · Kerry · 1774

    Dr Smith's History, published in 1774, described Lixnaw as a seat standing agreeably on the river Brick, cut into pleasant canals, with gardens, stone bridges, and a chapel frescoed by John Souillard with copies of Raphael's cartoons. The house consisted of a large building with wings and several offices enclosing a handsome area.

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    " This seat stands agreeably on the river Brick, which is here cut into several pleasant canals that adorn its plantations and gardens. The tide flows up to the gardens, whereby boats of a considerable burden may bring up goods to the bridge near the house ; here are two stone bridges over the Brick, the oldest of which was built by

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    As the companion tells it

    Lixnaw, Kerry. In 1774, Doctor Smith described its seat standing agreeably on the river Brick, cut into pleasant canals adorning plantations and gardens. The tide flows up, so boats of considerable burden may bring goods to the bridge near the house. Two stone bridges cross the Brick. The chapel was frescoed by John Souillard with copies of Raphael's cartoons.

28. Lord Kenmare attained and estates restored after Jacobite era

    Killarney · townland · Kerry · 1691–1700

    After the Revolution, the Lord Kenmare of the day was attained as an adherent of King James and lost his estates. The estates were eventually restored, and Kerry settled into the quieter life of the 18th century.

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    In the days of William III. and King James, the forces of the latter held Kerry till August 1 69 1 , and Tralee was again burnt on the approach of General Ginkel. Ginkel ordered Captains Navarre and O'Loughnane, who had ordered the burning, to be hanged. But their lives were saved by the intercession of Colonel Denny. An action near Lixnaw seems to have been the only fighting which took place in Kerry during the Revolution of 1688. After it was all over, there was the attainder of the adherents of King James, and amongst others the Lord Kenmare of the day lost his estates. They were, however, eventually restored, and Kerry settled down to the humdrum life of the 1 8th century. Its chivalrous and romantic history ended with the Stuarts. But somehow when travelling through the county it seems as if the life and spirit of the i6th century were nearer the heart of Kerry than any intervening period.

    Even yet are heard the tales of the Spaniards, of Fort Del Ore, and of the Armada, as though the events connected with them occurred yesterday. The '^ Earl of Desmond's pipers" are heard in the wailing of wintry gales, and old, halfruined, forgotten churches, abbeys, and castles speak eloquently of the days when the great Queen Elizabeth broke the power of the feudal lords of the County Palatine of Kerry.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Killarney, the Lord Kenmare of the day held his estates after the troubles of King James and William the Third. The forces of King James held Kerry till August 1691. Tralee was burnt again on the approach of General Ginkel. Ginkel ordered Captains Navarre and O'Loughnane, who had ordered the burning, to be hanged. Their lives were saved by the intercession of Colonel Denny. An action near Lixnaw seems to have been the only fighting that took place in Kerry during the Revolution of 1688. After it was all over came the attainder of the adherents of King James, and amongst others the Lord Kenmare of the day lost his estates. They were eventually restored, and Kerry settled down to the humdrum life of the 18th century. Its chivalrous and romantic history ended with the Stuarts. But travelling through the county, it seems as if the life and spirit of the 16th century were nearer the heart of Kerry than any intervening period. Even yet are heard the tales of the Spaniards, of Fort Del Ore, and of the Armada, as though the events connected with them occurred yesterday. The Earl of Desmond's pipers are heard in the wailing of wintry gales, and old, half-ruined, forgotten churches, abbeys, and castles speak eloquently of the days when the great Queen Elizabeth broke the power of the feudal lords of the County Palatine of Kerry.

29. Lough Guitane and the Glen of Keppoch

    near Lough Guitane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Guitane is a scenic lake reached by a winding road from Killarney past the Loretto Convent, offering views of Crohane Mountain and the Paps. Beyond the lake lies the Glen of Keppoch, where the road passes headlands and reveals new mountain scenery at every turn, including the bold trap dyke separating Croghane from Stoompa.

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    one of those generally enumerated amongst the number to be made from Killarney, but it can compare with any in point of scenery. Two m. from Killarney, by the Muckross Road, a cross road leads up the hill, passing the gates of Danesfort, the residence of S. H. Butcher, Esq., to the Loretto Convent, and descending the height on the E. side, goes by a winding route which gives a fine view of Crohane Mountain and the Paps to Poul-derka Wood — a dark fir plantation, in which is a hollow rocky kind of crater. In this secluded spot Mass was said in penal days. Turning to the L. at Poul-derka the road passes Lough Guitane Schoolhouse on the left, and soon after that the stony region of Cools' is seen on the R. About three-quarters of a mile from the schoolhouse there is a bridge crossing the Finow River, and a first glimpse is obtained of Lough Guitane. From this point the up-and-down road goes along the northern side of the lough, separated from it by some yards of moorland. Half a mile farther on is seen a gate on the right-hand side, separating the main road from a "bohereen," or rough car track, which leads along by a pleasant farm to the eastern shore of the lake. From here the roadway continues past a headland to the entrance of the glen of Keppoch. Every few yards bring some new and interesting bit of mountain scenery before the view. Croghane Mountain, sloping down to the shores of the lake, falls away to the S. to form a deep dip which divides its shoulder from the bold, steep, and prominent feature of the '' trap " dyke which separates Croghane from the dark craggy sides of Stoompa. At the head of the lough there is some cultivated

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    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Guitane, a lake the road reaches by a winding route from Killarney. The journey begins 2 miles from Killarney by the Muckross Road, where a cross road leads up the hill past the gates of Danesfort, the residence of S. H. Butcher, to the Loretto Convent. Descending the height on the east side, the road winds giving a fine view of Crohane Mountain and the Paps before reaching Poul-derka Wood, a dark fir plantation containing a hollow rocky kind of crater. In this secluded spot Mass was said in penal days. Turning at Poul-derka, the road passes Lough Guitane Schoolhouse, and the stony region of Cools' appears. About three-quarters of a mile from the schoolhouse a bridge crosses the Finow River, and there is the first glimpse of the lake. The road goes along the northern side of the lough, separated from the water by some yards of moorland. Half a mile farther on a gate leads off the main road to a bohereen, a rough car track that runs along by a pleasant farm to the eastern shore. Beyond the lake the road continues past a headland to the entrance of the Glen of Keppoch. Every few yards bring some new and interesting bit of mountain scenery. Croghane Mountain slopes down to the shores of the lake, then falls away to the south, forming a deep dip that divides its shoulder from the bold, steep, prominent trap dyke separating Croghane from the dark craggy sides of Stoompa. At the head of the lough there is some cultivated land.

30. Meeting of the Waters and old weir bridge

    Meeting of the Waters · minor feature · Kerry

    The Meeting of the Waters is where the boats rush under the arch of the old weir bridge into still water at the junction of the Killarney lakes. The view from here of the bridge with shadowing trees and a background of mountains is noted as particularly charming.

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    Shooting the rapids is one of the features of this water journey, and in full flood-time is an exciting experience, the boats rushing under the arch of the old weir bridge into the still circle of the " Meeting of the Waters." Here it is well to rest on the oars, and, turning back, look at the view of the bridge with its shadowing trees and the background of mountains ; or, landing for a few moments, visit the cottage of Dinas, where tea is to be obtained,

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    As the companion tells it

    This is the Meeting of the Waters, where boats rush under the arch of the old weir bridge into still water at the junction of the Killarney lakes. In full flood the rapids are an exciting passage. Once through, it is well to rest on the oars and turn back. The bridge stands with shadowing trees and a background of mountains. Landing for a few moments, you may visit the cottage of Dinas, where tea is to be obtained.

31. Neglected tomb of the Earl of Kerry at Lixnaw

    Lixnaw · town · Kerry

    At Lixnaw, on a windy hilltop on the left of the railway line, stands the neglected tomb of the Earl of Kerry, rising bare against the sky and serving as a landmark for miles over the flat land.

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    The ^' Stacks" Mountains are seen on the R. of the train from the vicinity of Ardfert and Abbeydorney, and the plain of bog and pasture-land then opens out in a wide sweep to the E., bounded by the distant, low, Glanaruddery Hills. On the L. hand side of the line beyond Ardfert can be seen the woods surrounding the house of Mr Talbot Crosbie ; and at Abbeydorney on the L. can be seen the ruins of the ancient abbey, formerly called *^ Kyrie Eleison," of which an account will be found in Chapter VIII. of this Guide. At Lixnaw, on a windy hilltop on the L. of the railway line, is seen the neglected tomb of the Earl of Kerry rising bare against the sky — a landmark for miles and miles over the flat land.

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    Lixnaw sits among wide flat land, bog and pasture stretching out around it. On a windy hilltop here stands the neglected tomb of the Earl of Kerry, rising bare against the sky. It serves as a landmark for miles and miles over the flat country all around. The tomb is all that is spoken of at Lixnaw itself — a lone monument on a bare height, left to the wind. The land around it is open and low, so the tomb can be seen from far off, a single dark shape where the hilltop meets the sky.

32. Ogham stone circle at Ballintaggart

    Ballintaggart · townland · Kerry

    On the green hill to the south of Ballintaggart House an enclosure marks the site of a circle of Ogham stones, noted as well worth a visit. The site is reached via a bye-road from the little village of Tubber.

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    ( 8 ) Dingle to Beenbawn Head. Visitors to Dingle should not fail to walk along the shores of the harbour as far as " Nancy Browne's Parlour," a well-known ledge of rock near the little lighthouse. In the caves about this part the Asplenium martnum grows profusely. A pathway leads from this lighthouse to the top of " Beenbawn Head," which stands out boldly against the waters of the bay and the distant Iveragh Mountains. From Beenbawn Head a delightful extension of the walk may be made to the *' Short Strand," or '^ Trabeg," which affords a view of Bull Head. The cliffs at this part of the coast are not of conspicuous height, but the infinite variety of colouring and the beauty of their forms makes this walk extremely interesting. Turning inland at the '' Short Strand," the return journey may be made by the little village of Tubber and along the byeroad which leads to Ballintaggart. On the green hill to the S. of Ballintaggart House an enclosure marks the site of a circle of Ogham stones which are well worth a visit.

    (9) Ascent of Mount Brandon, There are three easy ways of ascending this beautiful mountain.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ballintaggart there is a circle of Ogham stones on a green hill, and an enclosure marks where they stood. The site is well worth a visit. You reach it by way of a bye-road from the little village of Tubber. The hill lies to the south of Ballintaggart House. The guidebook that mentions it describes a longer walk that begins at Dingle, following the harbour shore to a ledge of rock called Nancy Browne's Parlour, near the little lighthouse, where a fern grows profusely in the caves. From the lighthouse a pathway climbs to the top of Beenbawn Head, which stands out boldly against the waters of the bay and the distant Iveragh Mountains. A further stretch leads to the Short Strand, or Trabeg, affording a view of Bull Head. The cliffs there are not of conspicuous height, but the variety of colouring and the beauty of their forms make the walk extremely interesting. Turning inland at the Short Strand, the return journey passes through Tubber and along the bye-road to Ballintaggart, where the Ogham stones wait on their green hill.

33. Ruined Cathedral of Aghadoe and Aghadoe House

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Between Killarney and Beaufort, the route passes the woods of Gortroe and the ruined Cathedral of Aghadoe, reaching Aghadoe Cross. A road branches uphill past the gates of Aghadoe House, the seat of Lord Headley, leading eventually to Milltown.

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    From Killarney to Beaufort, Dunloe, and back. From Killarney to Beaufort Bridge is a straight 6 m. of good road. The first part of the journey can be made either by following the main road past the Cathedral and along the banks of the Deena to Ballydowney Bridge (i m.), and thence passing the gates of the Victoria Hotel on the L. (ij m.), and having on the R. the woods of Gortroe and the ruined Cathedral of Aghadoe, to Aghadoe Cross, 2^ m., or by way of the Western Park, which affords a fine view of the Lower Lake, Toomies Mountains, and the Reeks, to the same place. At Aghadoe Cross a road branches off to the right up a hill, passing the gates of Aghadoe House, the seat of Lord Headley, and eventually leading to Milltown, 12 m., or by Aglish and Rockfield to Tralee, 20 m. Leaving, however, this road for the present, and continuing along the main road towards Beaufort, Fossa Chapel is passed on the R. hand, and shortly after this the gates of Lake View are seen on the left. Lake View House, the home of Sir Morgan O'Connell, is not seen from the road. A few yards beyond the gates of this house a road branches off to the L., leading to the Gap of Dunloe. This cross is 3J m. from Killarney

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    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Aghadoe, the road runs between Killarney and Beaufort. Along the way it passes the woods of Gortroe and the ruined Cathedral of Aghadoe, reaching a place called Aghadoe Cross. From there a road branches up a hill past the gates of Aghadoe House, the seat of Lord Headley, and leads on to Milltown, or by Aglish and Rockfield to Tralee. The first part of the journey from Killarney can also be made by way of the Western Park, which gives a fine view of the Lower Lake, the Toomies Mountains, and the Reeks, arriving at the same point. Continuing along the main road towards Beaufort, Fossa Chapel is passed, and shortly after, the gates of Lake View appear. Lake View House, the home of Sir Morgan O'Connell, is not seen from the road. A few yards beyond those gates another road branches off, leading to the Gap of Dunloe. That cross is 3 miles from Killarney. The whole stretch from Killarney to Beaufort Bridge is a straight 6 miles of good road.

34. Skirmish near Lixnaw during the Revolution of 1688

    Lixnaw · town · Kerry · 1688

    An action near Lixnaw appears to have been the only fighting that took place in Kerry during the Revolution of 1688. The passage otherwise notes that Kerry saw little combat during this period.

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    In the days of William III. and King James, the forces of the latter held Kerry till August 1 69 1 , and Tralee was again burnt on the approach of General Ginkel. Ginkel ordered Captains Navarre and O'Loughnane, who had ordered the burning, to be hanged. But their lives were saved by the intercession of Colonel Denny. An action near Lixnaw seems to have been the only fighting which took place in Kerry during the Revolution of 1688. After it was all over, there was the attainder of the adherents of King James, and amongst others the Lord Kenmare of the day lost his estates. They were, however, eventually restored, and Kerry settled down to the humdrum life of the 1 8th century. Its chivalrous and romantic history ended with the Stuarts. But somehow when travelling through the county it seems as if the life and spirit of the i6th century were nearer the heart of Kerry than any intervening period.

    Even yet are heard the tales of the Spaniards, of Fort Del Ore, and of the Armada, as though the events connected with them occurred yesterday. The '^ Earl of Desmond's pipers" are heard in the wailing of wintry gales, and old, halfruined, forgotten churches, abbeys, and castles speak eloquently of the days when the great Queen Elizabeth broke the power of the feudal lords of the County Palatine of Kerry.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    Lixnaw saw what appears to have been the only fighting in all of Kerry during the Revolution of 1688. In the days of William III and King James, the forces of King James held Kerry. Tralee was burnt on the approach of General Ginkel, who ordered Captains Navarre and O'Loughnane, who had ordered the burning, to be hanged. Their lives were saved by the intercession of Colonel Denny. After it was all over, there was the attainder of the adherents of King James, and amongst others the Lord Kenmare of the day lost his estates. They were eventually restored, and Kerry settled down to the humdrum life of the 18th century. Its chivalrous and romantic history ended with the Stuarts. When travelling through the county it seems as if the life and spirit of the 16th century were nearer the heart of Kerry than any intervening period. Even yet are heard tales of the Spaniards, of Fort Del Ore, and of the Armada, as though the events connected with them occurred yesterday. The Earl of Desmond's pipers are heard in the wailing of wintry gales, and old, half-ruined, forgotten churches, abbeys, and castles speak eloquently of the days when the great Queen Elizabeth broke the power of the feudal lords of the County Palatine of Kerry.

35. Stone oratory on the road from Kilmalkedar

    Gallarus · townland · Kerry

    On the road east from Kilmalkedar, a second stone oratory similar to the one at Gallarus can be found, though in a less perfect state of preservation. It stands roughly one mile from Kilmalkedar.

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    Leaving Kilmalchedor and all its interesting relics of bye-gone days, the road leads E. and then N. and E. again, past another stone oratory (i m.) similar to that at Gallerus, but in a less perfect state of preservation. At the E. side of the harbour of Smerwick is seen the white coastguard station, and a good view is obtained up Ballydavid Head, crowned by a crumbling tower, one of the many built to watch for the foe in the days of the French wars. About 4 m. from Kilmalchedor this road meets the road leading direct from Dingle to Brandon Creek, or, as it is sometimes called, Cloosawithic. It would be well to turn to the L. at this point, and following the road at the base of Mount Brandon, pay a visit to this creek. A group of fishermen's cottages and a store, where a variety of useful articles can be bought, marks the end of this road. Crossing the sward a few yards brings the visitor to the creek, a deep cleft eaten into the land by the sea. A good pier has been built by the " Congested Districts Board" here, and 70 or 80 "canoes" can be seen turned bottom upwards looking like great black beetles. These canoes are formed of a frail framework of laths covered with tarred canvas, and are most seaworthy craft. On an evening when the herring fishing is in full swing

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on the road east from Kilmalkedar, stands a second stone oratory, similar to the one at Gallarus but in a less perfect state of preservation. The road leads east, then north, then east again, and roughly one mile from Kilmalkedar this oratory is passed. Beyond it, at the east side of Smerwick harbour, a white coastguard station can be seen. A good view opens up Ballydavid Head, crowned by a crumbling tower, one of the many built to watch for the foe in the days of the French wars. About 4 miles from Kilmalkedar, this road meets the road leading direct from Dingle to Brandon Creek, or as it is sometimes called, Cloosawithic. It would be well to turn left at this point and follow the road at the base of Mount Brandon to visit this creek. A group of fishermen's cottages and a store, where useful articles can be bought, marks the end of the road. Crossing the sward a few yards brings you to the creek, a deep cleft eaten into the land by the sea. A good pier has been built by the Congested Districts Board here, and 70 or 80 canoes can be seen turned bottom upwards, looking like great black beetles. These canoes are formed of a frail framework of laths covered with tarred canvas, and are most seaworthy craft.

36. Tarbert seaport and former naval presence

    Tarbert · town · Kerry

    Tarbert is a quiet little seaport town with nothing remarkable about it. Formerly a man-of-war was quartered in the Tarbert Roads for a portion of the year.

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    The return journey to Listowel can be made by passing through the village of Ballylongford and turning N. and then again E. to Tarbert (5 m.). Tarbert is a quiet little seaport town with nothing remarkable about it. Formerly a man-of-war was quartered in the Tarbert Roads for a portion of the year. From this place the road runs nearly straight to Listowel, and is without exception one of the dullest and most dreary journeys in the county. It is impossible to say anything in its favour. The expeditions from Listowel may include visits to Abbeydorney, Rattoo, Lixnaw, and Ballyheige. But as these have been given in Chapter VIII. when dealing with Tralee and its neighbourhood, they will not be further mentioned.

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    As the companion tells it

    Tarbert is a quiet little seaport town with nothing remarkable about it. That is how the old guide describes this place you pass through or near on the Kerry road. There is one thing worth noting. Formerly a man-of-war was quartered in the Tarbert Roads for a portion of the year. A naval vessel, stationed here as part of its yearly duties, riding at anchor in the waters off the town. The road from here runs nearly straight to Listowel, and the book calls it one of the dullest and most dreary journeys in the county. It says it is impossible to say anything in its favour. The traveller can reach Tarbert by passing through the village of Ballylongford and turning north and then east.

37. Vertical stratification in hills about Sneem

    Sneem · town · Kerry

    In the hills about Caragh and Sneem, and along the southern shore of the Kenmare River, the Old Red Sandstone rocks have been crushed so hard that their stratification is nearly vertical.

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    This wilderness of mountain and glen is chiefly of Old Red Sandstone formation ; the rocks in places have been so crushed in the cooling of the earth's crust that the stratification is often almost perpendicular. This may be seen in the hills about Caragh and Sneem, and along the southern shore of the Kenmare River. Various pointed hills occur in parts of Kerry, rising up like small volcanic peaks to add variety to the wild scarped cliffs and round-headed mountains which prevail.

    It is said that the geological structure of the whole of the south of Ireland is as simple as that of the Jura district. The coal measures and carboniferous limestone and slate of the upward folds have gradu-

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    Around Sneem, the rocks tell of deep time. This is Old Red Sandstone country, mountain and glen, and the stone here has been crushed so hard in the cooling of the earth's crust that its layers stand almost vertical. You can see it in the hills about Sneem and Caragh, and along the southern shore of the Kenmare River. Pointed hills rise in parts of Kerry like small volcanic peaks, adding variety to the wild scarped cliffs and round-headed mountains that prevail across the landscape. The geological structure of the whole south of Ireland is said to be as simple as that of the Jura district.

38. Windy Gap pass between Glencar and Rossbeigh

    Windy Gap · pass · Kerry

    The Windy Gap stands 1098 feet above the sea and offers a fine view across the Vale of Glencar of the western side of Carrantuohill and the mountains forming the southern boundary of the district. The northern slopes are clothed in thick heather.

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    It is worth while to stop at this point, where the Glencar River rushes white with foam through the dark, warm-coloured rocks, and, if time permits, to wander a short distance up the banks of the river to enjoy the unrivalled combination of wood and water and mountain scenery. A few yards beyond the bridge on the R. stands Lickeen House, on the flat land which borders the long inlet from Caragh Lake. After passing Lickeen House the road partakes more of the character of a bridle-path winding and rising and falling through a tangle of birch and holly trees and mossy boulders covered with ferns. It is an attractive journey, particularly in springtime, when the violets and primroses are in flower and the woods are full of the songs of birds. After about half-a-mile the woods begin to get thin, and as the *' Slieve " opens out the road begins to rise steeper and steeper up the mountain side to the " Windy Gap." There is no missing this track, as it can be seen winding clearly up the side of the mountain. But it taxes the energies to push a bicycle up the rough incline, even though ample reward is obtained by the view from the summit. Standing in the " Windy Gap," 1098 ft. above the sea, and looking back across the Vale of Glencar, there is a fine view of the W. side of Carrantuohill and all the mountains L 161

    KERRY

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 82

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Windy Gap, the road has been climbing for some time before you reach the pass itself. The Glencar River rushes white with foam through dark, warm-coloured rocks, and a short walk up its banks gives what the old guide calls an unrivalled combination of wood and water and mountain scenery. A few yards beyond the bridge, Lickeen House stands on flat land bordering a long inlet from Caragh Lake. Past the house the road turns to something more like a bridle-path, winding and rising and falling through birch and holly and mossy boulders covered with ferns. In spring the violets and primroses are in flower and the woods are full of the songs of birds. After about half a mile the woods thin out. The road rises steeper and steeper up the mountain side, its track clearly visible winding against the slope. It taxes the energies to push a bicycle up that rough incline. The reward comes at the summit. Standing in the pass, 1098 feet above the sea, and looking back across the Vale of Glencar, there is a fine view of the western side of Carrantuohill and all the mountains forming the southern boundary of the district. The northern slopes are clothed in thick heather.

39. Gallarus Castle, built by the Knights of Kerry

    Gallarus Castle · castle · Kerry

    Gallarus Castle, situated in the flat land beneath the road leading down from the Knockavrogeen pass, was built by the Knights of Kerry long ago. It stands near the cross-roads where three roads meet between Ballyferriter and Kilmalkedar.

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    At this point three roads meet ; one going to the L. leads on to Ballyferriter, Smerwick, and Fort del Ore, another good road winding round the shoulder of the hill to the E. leads to Kilmalchedor, whilst a third drops down through a collection of cottages to Gallerus Castle, built by the Knights of Kerry long ago, which may be seen in the flat land beneath.

    . Gallerus Oratory, Following this last-named road for ;| of a mile the traveller sees on his R. the quaint stone-roofed oratory of Gallerus, distant a few yards from the road. This oratory, with the group of beehive huts close by, is one of the best specimens of the earliest period of Christian architecture, which in this particular district is so closely connected with the name and fame of St Brandon. A low doorway leads to the interior, which is lighted by a solitary E. window, circular in shape. No ornament of any kind is seen in this rude edifice, but the mind is impressed by the severe, cold, ascetic shrine which brings so forcibly back the early missionary efforts of the Celtic Church, and the days when the followers of Christ fled to the wilderness and the lonely isles to pray and preach and civilise the land which was torn by strife.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    A castle built by the Knights of Kerry long ago, Gallarus Castle stands in the flat land beneath the road that drops down through a collection of cottages. Three roads meet at the point above. One leads on to Ballyferriter, Smerwick, and Fort del Ore. Another winds round the shoulder of the hill to the east and leads to Kilmalkedar. The third drops down to the castle itself. Following that same road, the traveller comes upon the stone-roofed oratory of Gallarus, a few yards from the road. With the group of beehive huts close by, it is one of the best specimens of the earliest period of Christian architecture, closely connected in this district with the name and fame of St Brandon. A low doorway leads to the interior, lighted by a solitary window to the east, circular in shape. No ornament of any kind is seen in this rude edifice. The severe, cold, ascetic shrine brings back the early missionary efforts of the Celtic Church, and the days when the followers of Christ fled to the wilderness and the lonely isles to pray and preach and civilise the land torn by strife.

40. Poor Clares convent in Kenmare

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry

    The convent of Poor Clares is one of the chief places of interest in Kenmare. Specimens of the lace and needlework for which it has a wide-extended reputation can be seen there.

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    in this branch of science, as the ridges of the mountains and the smooth ice - planed rocks cannot fail to be noticed even by the uninitiated. The convent of " Poor Clares,'' which is now so well known, is one of the chief places of interest in the town. In it can be seen specimens of the lace and needlework which have given it a wideextended reputation. The church, situated close to the convent, is also worth a visit. Near the town can be seen the place where, in 1688-89, the colony of iron - workers, mechanics, and farmers, who had been established in Kenmare by Sir William Petty during the quiet times between 1645 and 1688, entrenched themselves and held out against certain bands of robbers who raided their cattle and endangered their lives. The story is a strange one, and needs to be carefully read to be understood. After various struggles and sufferings the remnant of the colony, founded with high hope of industrial success, was obliged to give in, and was shipped off to Bristol. This happened when James II. was king, and before the authority of King William III. had been estabUshed in the " Kingdom of Kerry." Not far from Kenmare is the field of Callan, where in 1261 the great battle was fought between the Geraldines and MacCarthys, which ended so disastrously to the Geraldines.

    (2) Dunkerron Castle, Two m. to the W. of Kenmare on the direct road to Sneem the gates of Dunkerron are passed on the left-hand side, and on entering the grounds the gaunt pile of masonry representing the tower and one wall of the old castle of O'SuIlivan More is seen standing on a slight eminence. As these grounds are private, permission must be obtained before entering. A

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Kenmare is the convent of the Poor Clares, one of the chief places of interest in the town. Specimens of the lace and needlework that have given the convent a wide-extended reputation can be seen there. A church close to the convent is also noted as worth a visit.

41. Reclaimed bog holdings near Killorglin

    Killorglin · town · Kerry

    Beyond Killorglin, bog has been reclaimed at infinite labour to form small holdings in a 'Congested District.' A dreary waste of bog and stony enclosures stretches across the landscape toward the Dingle peninsula hills.

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    marble in the interior being of excellent quality. A thriving salmon fishery is carried on from January — when the season opens — till August. But perhaps one of the most notable things connected with Killorglin is the annual fair on nth August, called and known far and near as " Puck Fair." The origin of the name is said to be due to the fact that long ago a solitary " puck " or goat was the only animal offered for sale. Great things have sometimes small beginnings, and " Puck " Fair is no exception to this. At the present day hundreds of people attend this fair, and a large " puck " or he-goat, profusely decorated, is placed on a high platform in the centre of the town. Beyond Killorglin a wild bit of land stretches away to the L. of the railway, beyond which rise the Reeks and Carrantuohill in all their beauty of outline. Here and there the bog has been reclaimed at infinite labour to form small holdings in a '* Congested District."

    On the right of the railway, across another dreary waste of bog and stony enclosures, the hills of the Dingle peninsula can be seen over a strip of Castlemaine Harbour, and then the woods at the northern end of Caragh Lake meet the view. To the traveller who has never visited this pleasing locality before, it is as though he had entered an oasis in a desert, so different in character does the country appear when once the waters of Caragh Lake meet the eye.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Killorglin sits along the road, a town in Kerry known far and near for its annual fair on August, called Puck Fair. The origin of the name is said to come from the fact that long ago a solitary puck, or goat, was the only animal offered for sale. Great things have sometimes small beginnings, and Puck Fair is no exception. At the present day, hundreds of people attend this fair, and a large puck, or he-goat, profusely decorated, is placed on a high platform in the centre of the town. Beyond Killorglin, a wild bit of land stretches away, and here and there the bog has been reclaimed at infinite labour to form small holdings in what is called a Congested District. Across a dreary waste of bog and stony enclosures, the hills of the Dingle peninsula can be seen over a strip of Castlemaine Harbour. Then the woods at the northern end of Caragh Lake meet the view. To a traveller who has never visited this pleasing locality before, it is as though they had entered an oasis in a desert, so different in character does the country appear when once the waters of Caragh Lake meet the eye. Beyond all this rise the Reeks and Carrantuohill in all their beauty of outline, and a thriving salmon fishery is carried on from January, when the season opens, till August.

42. Blackwater Bridge on the Kenmare road

    near Blackwater Bridge · population centre · Kerry

    Blackwater Bridge is a beautiful old tree-shaded bridge on the main road between Killarney and Sneem, up to which the tide flows. It is described as known far and near and a beautiful spot to rest.

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    The scenery is not so wild as that of the Gap of Dunloe, but it has its special charm of solitude, and the bleating of sheep hidden away on the steep mountain slopes increases the feeling of loneliness. The S. side of the pass is of a less wild description. A view of Loch Brin, with a small bit of plantation, brings a feeling that one is again within reach of civilisation, and as the road descends gradually by the Blackwater River the views increase in breadth if not in beauty. Far away the woods near Dromore and Blackwater Bridge mark the shores of Kenmare River, and the blue ridge beyond is on the far side of that river. Four m. from the head of the pass a bridge crosses the Blackwater, and a mile farther on the main road between Killarney and Sneem is met. Here a sharp turn to the R., past a blacksmith's forge and over a bridge, must be made, and immediately on crossing the bridge another sharp turn to the L. leads by the R. bank of the Blackwater River to the beautiful old bridge (2 m.), shaded by trees, and up to which the tide flows, and which is known far and near as " Blackwater Bridge." This is a beautiful spot to rest for a time.

    The main road to Sneem from Kenmare crosses this bridge, and the woods around Dromore Castle

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 83

    As the companion tells it

    The road comes down from the mountains by the Blackwater River, and the scenery here is not so wild as the Gap of Dunloe, though it has its own charm of solitude. Sheep bleat somewhere on the steep slopes, and that sound only deepens the loneliness. On the south side of the pass, things grow less severe. A view of Loch Brin opens up, with a small bit of plantation, and you get the feeling that civilisation is within reach again. As the road descends gradually along the Blackwater River, the views grow broader. Far off, the woods near Dromore and the old bridge mark the shores of Kenmare River, and beyond that river rises a blue ridge on the far side. Four miles from the head of the pass, a bridge crosses the Blackwater, and a mile farther on, the road meets the main road between Killarney and Sneem. A sharp turn past a blacksmith's forge and over a bridge leads to another sharp turn, following the right bank of the Blackwater River to the beautiful old tree-shaded bridge known far and near as Blackwater Bridge. The tide flows up to it. The main road to Sneem from Kenmare crosses this bridge, and the woods around Dromore Castle stand nearby. It is a beautiful spot to rest for a time.

43. Caherdaniel village named from old stone fort

    Caherdaniel · townland · Kerry

    Caherdaniel is a small cluster of houses with a church on a rise over a river, surrounded by fuchsia hedges. The village takes its name from an old fort or 'caher' situated about a mile west of the village.

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    Caherdaniel, Caherdaniel consists of a small cluster of houses with a church on a rise over a river, and surrounded by beautiful fuchsia hedges. The village stands at the entrance of a semicircle of hills facing the S., and takes its name from an old

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    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 63

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Caherdaniel, a small cluster of houses with a church on a rise over a river, surrounded by fuchsia hedges. It stands at the entrance of a semicircle of hills facing south. The village takes its name from an old fort, a caher, situated about a mile west of it.

44. Chapel of Coad dedicated to St Crohane

    Coad · townland · Kerry

    A small ruined chapel on the hill slope near Coad is dedicated to St Crohane, the patron saint of the locality. The ruin follows the same plan as most early churches of the area.

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    Legend further states that a party of Partholan's men went along the shores to find a landing-place for the rest of the host, and from the next cove to Glenbeg they waved branches of trees to their comrades to signify that a suitable place had been found, and this cove is called in Celtic to the present time the *^cove of the branches." But each one must gather the legends of this interesting county for himself, and it will greatly add to the pleasure of a tour in Kerry. Continuing along the road for a mile, the rock and islet-studded inlet of '* West Cove " is seen, near which place it is said a fight occurred between Cromwell's soldiers and the Irish. A road turning to the L. leads by a gradual ascent to the Chapel of Coad, which can be seen on the hill slope to the L. This little ruin is dedicated to St Crohane, who is the patron saint of this particular locality. There is nothing very interesting about the ruin, which is on the same plan as most of the early

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    Somewhere close to Coad, a chapel ruin sits on the hill slope. It is dedicated to St Crohane, the patron saint of this particular locality. A road leads up to it by a gradual ascent. The little ruin follows the same plan as most of the early churches of the area. The record says there is nothing very interesting about the ruin itself. Nearby, the rock and islet-studded inlet of West Cove lies along the road, and near this place a fight is said to have occurred between Cromwell's soldiers and the Irish. Further along the shore, legend states that a party of Partholan's men went to find a landing-place for the rest of their host. From the cove next to Glenbeg they waved branches of trees to their comrades to signify that a suitable place had been found. That cove is still called the cove of the branches.

45. Derrycunihy chapel between Kenmare and Killarney

    Derrycunihy · townland · Kerry

    A little chapel at Derrycunihy, sheltered by woods and overlooking the scenery of the Upper Lake of Killarney, situated 6 miles from Kenmare along a moorland road. It serves as a meeting point for travellers walking from Kenmare to connect with coaches onward to Killarney.

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    Kenmare to Derrycunihy and Killarney, A route recommended to pedestrians, but not to cyclists, is that which leaves Kenmare by the road near the station, and leading up hill by the poorhouse gets to the heights above Beechmount. From there, by an up-and-down road, the traveller passes through the moorlands which stretch from the S.W. slopes of Mangerton on the R. and Peakeen Mountain, which rises 1825 ft. on the L. of the road, and eventually reaches the little chapel of Derrycunihy, sheltered by woods and overlooking the beautiful scenery of the Upper Lake of Killarney. The distance from Kenmare to this chapel is 6 m. A traveller who gives plenty of time for the walk might meet the coach at Derrycunihy, and so journey on to Killarney.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Derrycunihy there is a little chapel, sheltered by woods and overlooking the scenery of the Upper Lake of Killarney. The road from Kenmare runs about 6 miles to reach it, climbing past the poorhouse and the heights above Beechmount, then rising and falling through open moorland. Mangerton's slopes fall away on one side and Peakeen Mountain, rising to 1825 feet, stands on the other. The route is recommended for those on foot, though not for cyclists. A walker who takes plenty of time for the journey can meet the coach at the chapel here at Derrycunihy, and from there travel on to Killarney.

46. Dower House ruins near Torc Mountain

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1807–1907

    The Dower House, situated close to the foot of Torc Mountain within the park enclosure, was built around the same time the mountain was planted. It is now in ruins.

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    at the base of Tore Mountain. Here a turn should be made to the left and the main road followed to Killarney. Tore Mountain was planted about a hundred years ago by the Colonel Herbert of the day ; and the *^ Dower House," now in ruins, situated elose to the foot of the mountain within the park enclosure, was built about the same time.

    Tore Waterfall. One m. along this road from the point above mentioned, the eottage on the right marks another entrance to Muckross Park, and close at hand is the door and path leading to Tore Cascade. This beautiful fall is justly celebrated, and even in comparatively dry weather presents an attractive sight. In floodtime it would be hard to exaggerate the grandeur of the scene. The first view of the cascade is from the foot straight facing the gorge and ridge over which the water passes ; but a pathway leads to the top of the hill above the fall, and it is well worth the climb to view the scenery from the higher level. A delightful walk leads from the top of the ridge through the pine woods to Muckross. This route is called the "Queen's Drive."

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 44

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Muckross, are the ruins of the Dower House. It stood close to the foot of Torc Mountain, within the park enclosure. The mountain was planted about a hundred years ago by the Colonel Herbert of the day, and the Dower House was built about the same time. Now it is in ruins. At the base of Torc Mountain, a turn to the left along the main road leads toward Killarney. A mile along that road, a cottage marks another entrance to Muckross Park, and close at hand is the path to Torc Cascade. The waterfall is justly celebrated, and even in comparatively dry weather presents an attractive sight. In floodtime it would be hard to exaggerate the grandeur of the scene. The first view of the cascade is from the foot, straight facing the gorge and ridge over which the water passes. A pathway leads to the top of the hill above the fall, and it is well worth the climb. A walk leads from the top of the ridge through the pine woods to Muckross, a route called the Queen's Drive.

47. Gap of Dunloe and French's Cottage

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    The road to the left through the Black Valley leads through the Gap of Dunloe back to Caragh. At the entrance of the Gap is French's Cottage, where carriages are arranged for the return journey.

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    This fine walk gives splendid views up the mountains at every turn, and each mile brings additional interests. A spur called Feabrahy (1894 ft.) runs out S. from the " Sierra " ridge of the Reeks, the highest points of which are one just behind Brassel Mountain (3 141 ft.), and one a little farther to the E., 3062 ft. in height. The road, after crossing the river, runs at the base of the Reeks on the N. side of the Coumduv (Black Valley) to a cross. Here the road to the R. leads down to Geerameen and the Upper Lake, which may be seen in the distance, and the road to the L. leads through the Gap of Dunloe back to Caragh. In making this expedition from Caragh care should be taken to have carriages or cars sent to the entrance of the Gap — to " French's Cottage ''

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Gap of Dunloe, the road through the Black Valley leads back to Caragh. The walk gives splendid views up the mountains at every turn, and each mile brings additional interests. A spur called Feabrahy, 1894 feet, runs out south from the Sierra ridge of the Reeks. The highest points of that ridge are one just behind Brassel Mountain, 3141 feet, and one a little farther east, 3062 feet. The road, after crossing the river, runs at the base of the Reeks on the north side of the Black Valley, until it reaches a cross. The road to the right leads down to Geerameen and the Upper Lake, which may be seen in the distance. The road to the left leads through the Gap of Dunloe back to Caragh. At the entrance of the Gap is French's Cottage, where you should have carriages or cars sent to meet you for the return journey.

48. Glenbeigh as a sportsman's resort and sea-bathing at Rossbeigh

    Glenbeigh · town · Kerry

    Glenbeigh has been famous for many years for its comfortable sportsman's hotel, with sea-bathing available at Rossbeigh three miles to the west. The railway line gradually ascends the partially wooded slope of Behy Mountain forming the northern boundary of the broad valley.

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    Approaches. ( i ) The line of rail from Caragh Lake affords pretty views of the river Caragh on the L. till Dook's Station is reached. To the N.E. of this station, and 2 m. distant, are the golf links, amidst the sand dunes which fringe the shores of Castlemaine Bay. The next station going W. is Glenbeigh, famous for many years past for its comfortable sportsman's hotel and the sea-bathing to be obtained at Rossbeigh, 3 m. to the W. From Glenbeigh the railway line gradually ascends the partially wooded slope of Behy Mountain, which forms the northern boundary of the broad valley of Glenbeigh, the Behy River being on the L. hand. The old mail-car road runs on the far side of the stream as it is looked at from the train towards the head waters, and crosses it 3 m. from Glenbeigh to touch the railway line at " Mountain Stage " Station. The Behy River rises in the semicircle of mountains which form the western end of the Glenbeigh Valley. The highest points of these mountains regarded from the train, and beginning from the left, are as follow: —

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    As the companion tells it

    Glenbeigh in Kerry has been famous for many years for its comfortable sportsman's hotel, with sea-bathing to be had at Rossbeigh, 3 miles to the west. The railway line coming from the east affords pretty views of the river Caragh before reaching Dook's Station. North-east of that station, 2 miles distant, are the golf links, amidst the sand dunes which fringe the shores of Castlemaine Bay. From Glenbeigh the railway line gradually ascends the partially wooded slope of Behy Mountain, which forms the northern boundary of the broad valley of Glenbeigh. The Behy River rises in the semicircle of mountains that form the western end of the Glenbeigh Valley. The old mail-car road runs on the far side of the stream towards the head waters and crosses it 3 miles from Glenbeigh to touch the railway line at Mountain Stage station.

49. Kells Coast Guard Station and harbour

    Kells · townland · Kerry

    The Coast Guard Station and sheltered harbour of Kells are visible from the railway line as it swings south along the cliffs overlooking Dingle Bay. The woods around the Blennerhassett home nearby feature luxuriant tree ferns.

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    In the folds of these hills, and hidden from road and railway, are three lakes of great beauty — Coomasaharn, under the shadow of Coomacarrea Mountain ; Coomaglaslaw and Coomacronia, under the steep slopes of Mullaghnacakill and Been Hill. A tramp across the bog land and small pastures from "Mountain Stage'' (3 m.) will reveal the beauties of these lonely loughs to the traveller. From the last-named station the line of railway gradually descends an incline aloiig the face of the hills overhanging the cliffs, where the sea breaks in white foam, and affords an extraordinarily fine view of Dingle Bay and the whole range of mountains from the Blasket Islands, far off in the W., to Caherconree, away to the E. of the Dingle peninsula. It is worth making a journey to Cahirciveen on a fine day for the sole purpose of seeing this view. Four miles of this sea, cliff, and mountain scenery are passed before the train swings S. at the point where the Coast Guard Station and sheltered harbour of Kells are seen below on the right. The woods around the home of Mr Ponsonby Blennerhassett give a pleasing variety to the moorland scene which meets the view. In these woods the tree ferns grow luxuriantly. Inland and upwards the line now trends to Kells Station, where the broad valley of the Ferta opens out on the L., and Knocknatubber rises 2267 ft.

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    Somewhere close to Kells, the Coast Guard Station and its sheltered harbour come into view below. The railway line has been descending along the face of the hills, overhanging the cliffs where the sea breaks in white foam, and for four miles you have been passing through sea, cliff, and mountain scenery before the line swings south at this point. It is an extraordinarily fine view of Dingle Bay and the whole range of mountains, from the Blasket Islands far off in the west to Caherconree away to the east of the Dingle peninsula. The book says it is worth making a journey to Cahirciveen on a fine day for the sole purpose of seeing this view. The woods around the home of Mr Ponsonby Blennerhassett give a pleasing variety to the moorland scene. In these woods the tree ferns grow luxuriantly. Inland and upwards from here the line trends to Kells Station, where the broad valley of the Ferta opens out, and Knocknatubber rises 2267 feet.

50. Killarney rainfall and temperature statistics, 1881-1900

    Killarney · townland · Kerry · 1881–1900

    Between 1881 and 1900, Killarney recorded an average of 223 rain days per year and 56.47 inches of rainfall. The average maximum temperature was 56.2°F and the minimum 42.8°F during the same period.

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    At Valencia, in the period from 1881 to 1900, the maximum temperature was registered at the average of 56.0 and the minimum at 45.7. The maximum temperature at Killarney during the same period being 56.2 and the minimum 42.8. The amount of possible sunshine registered at Valencia, taking a possible 100 as standard, was 34.

    From the statistics it might be inferred that Kerry was a dull, gloomy, sunless quarter of the globe. But the contrary impression remains on the minds of those who know the county well. There is no part of Ireland which leaves such a sunny memory as Kerry. The climate may be compared to a lengthened April day when swishing rain is succeeded by gleams of sunshine. When it is fine in Kerry it really is fine, and the brilliance of the sun and the blueness of the sky can only be likened to Italian skies and sunshine. The colours of the hills and the whole beauty of the scenery of the county is enhanced by this combination of cloud and rain and sunshine to a remarkable degree.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, between 1881 and 1900, Killarney kept weather records. The maximum temperature averaged 56.2 degrees Fahrenheit and the minimum 42.8. In the same years, an average of 223 rain days fell each year, bringing 56.47 inches of rainfall. Down at Valencia the maximum was 56.0 and the minimum 45.7, and the possible sunshine registered there, taking 100 as standard, was 34. From statistics like these, you might infer that Kerry was a dull, gloomy, sunless quarter of the globe. But the contrary impression remains on the minds of those who know the county well. There is no part of Ireland which leaves such a sunny memory as Kerry. The climate may be compared to a lengthened April day when swishing rain is succeeded by gleams of sunshine. When it is fine in Kerry it really is fine, and the brilliance of the sun and the blueness of the sky can only be likened to Italian skies and sunshine. The colours of the hills and the whole beauty of the scenery of the county is enhanced by this combination of cloud and rain and sunshine to a remarkable degree.

51. Ruined castle guarding Ballinskelligs haven

    Ballinskelligs · townland · Kerry

    Hard by the old abbey at Ballinskelligs, on a low sandspit, stands a ruined castle built to guard the haven. A small island at the entrance of Ballinskelligs Bay provides shelter for a tolerably safe anchorage for fishing-boats.

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    Hard by the old abbey on a low sandspit stands a ruined castle built to guard the haven. From the abbey a fine view of sea and mountain presents itself, extending from the Iveragh Mountains along to the S.E. to Knockaline, and thence S. by Coomakista to Hog's Head and ScarifF Island. A small island at the entrance of Ballinskelligs Bay gives shelter to a tolerably safe anchorage for the fishing-boats which come periodically to these waters. Ballinskelligs possesses a station of the " Direct United States " Telegraph Company, and a good hotel which, facing S., gets the full benefit of the sun. In the sheltered sandy caves near the village fair bathing is possible, and few pleasanter localities for a sojourn can be imagined than the neighbourhood of this bright, clean village, with its interesting ruined abbey and its beautiful sea. The return

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    As the companion tells it

    Close to Ballinskelligs, on a low sandspit, stands a ruined castle built to guard the haven. Hard by the old abbey, it keeps watch over the bay. A small island at the entrance of Ballinskelligs Bay gives shelter to a tolerably safe anchorage for the fishing-boats which come periodically to these waters. From the abbey a fine view of sea and mountain presents itself, extending from the Iveragh Mountains to Knockaline, and thence by Coomakista to Hog's Head and Scariff Island. The village itself faces south and gets the full benefit of the sun. In the sheltered sandy caves near the village fair bathing is possible. Few pleasanter localities for a sojourn can be imagined than the neighbourhood of this bright, clean village, with its interesting ruined abbey and its beautiful sea.

52. Watchtower at Ballydavid Head from the French wars

    Ballydavid Head · promontory · Kerry

    A crumbling tower crowns Ballydavid Head above Smerwick Harbour, one of many such towers built to watch for enemy forces during the French wars. A white coastguard station stands at the eastern side of the harbour.

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    Leaving Kilmalchedor and all its interesting relics of bye-gone days, the road leads E. and then N. and E. again, past another stone oratory (i m.) similar to that at Gallerus, but in a less perfect state of preservation. At the E. side of the harbour of Smerwick is seen the white coastguard station, and a good view is obtained up Ballydavid Head, crowned by a crumbling tower, one of the many built to watch for the foe in the days of the French wars. About 4 m. from Kilmalchedor this road meets the road leading direct from Dingle to Brandon Creek, or, as it is sometimes called, Cloosawithic. It would be well to turn to the L. at this point, and following the road at the base of Mount Brandon, pay a visit to this creek. A group of fishermen's cottages and a store, where a variety of useful articles can be bought, marks the end of this road. Crossing the sward a few yards brings the visitor to the creek, a deep cleft eaten into the land by the sea. A good pier has been built by the " Congested Districts Board" here, and 70 or 80 "canoes" can be seen turned bottom upwards looking like great black beetles. These canoes are formed of a frail framework of laths covered with tarred canvas, and are most seaworthy craft. On an evening when the herring fishing is in full swing

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Ballydavid Head, above Smerwick Harbour, a crumbling tower stands on the promontory. It is one of the many towers built to watch for the foe in the days of the French wars. Kilmalchedor lies behind, with its interesting relics of bye-gone days, and the road from it turns east, then north, then east again, past a stone oratory like the one at Gallerus, though in a less perfect state of preservation. At the eastern side of Smerwick harbour stands a white coastguard station, and from there a good view is obtained of the headland, crowned by the old tower. These towers were built to give warning when enemy forces threatened from the sea. The French wars brought that danger to these shores, and the towers were raised as the answer to it. Today the tower is crumbling, but it holds its place still above the harbour, a mark of the time when the coast was watched and the sea carried the threat of war to these shores.

53. Ballyseedy House, home of the Blennerhassetts

    Ballyseedy · townland · Kerry

    Ballyseedy House, approached by a cross-road on the right about three miles from Tralee, is identified as the home of the Blennerhassetts. The surrounding woods of Ballyseedy are passed along the road eastward from Tralee.

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    (8) Tralee to Glounaneenty. The low range of hills which stretch from near Tralee to the eastern bounds of the county of Kerry, bringing to mind a line of African kopjes with their passes or ^' neks," contains one point called the Knight's Mountain— faint echo from the feudal days. Not far from this point lies the scene of the last tragedy connected with the pathetic story of the house of Desmond. The road from Tralee to Castleisland ( 1 1 m. ) or Killarney (20 m.) passes the cemetery about half-a-mile from the town on the L. hand side of the road. There is to be seen a small ruined chapel called Ratass, the doorway of which is a somewhat celebrated specimen of Cyclopean masonry. Continuing along this road past the Poor House on the L., a good road leads due E., where the woods of Ballyseedy are passed (3 m.), and shortly after the cross-road on the R., which leads to Ballyseedy House, the home of the Blennerhassetts. From

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    Somewhere close to Ballyseedy, the woods give way to the cross-road that leads to Ballyseedy House, the home of the Blennerhassetts. The road eastward from Tralee runs through a low range of hills, stretching to the eastern bounds of Kerry. These hills bring to mind a line of African kopjes with their passes or neks. One point in the range is called the Knight's Mountain, a faint echo from feudal days. Not far from it lies the scene of the last tragedy connected with the story of the house of Desmond. Along this road from Tralee there is a cemetery and a small ruined chapel called Ratass. Its doorway is a celebrated specimen of Cyclopean masonry. Continuing past the Poor House, the road runs due east, and the woods of Ballyseedy appear. Shortly after, the cross-road leads to Ballyseedy House itself.

54. Carboniferous limestone belt marks Kerry's most fertile land

    Tralee · townland · Kerry

    A broad band of carboniferous limestone runs from Ballylongford through Ardfert, Tralee, Castleisland and south to Killarney Lakes. This limestone marks the most fertile area in Kerry.

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    Between Kenmare and GlengarifFe may be seen further evidences of the Ice Age, and the lower ground and the sides of the mountains show the smooth round forms which tell geologists stories which make the uninitiated wonder, and lead to such quaint replies as the following : " What would you say," was asked of a Kerry farmer, " if I told you that the whole of the hills along the shores of the Kenmare River had been grooved and polished by ice?" " Well, sir, I'd be apt to say you were a liar ! " A broad band of carboniferous limestone, beginning near Ballylongford in North Kerry, bends in the form of the letter S round by Ardfert and Tralee and on to Castleisland, and southwards then to Killarney Lakes. This limestone marks the most fertile area in Kerry, and it crops up out of the drift area of millstone grit and shale.

    The geology of Kerry is very simple — limestone, millstone grit, and Old Red Sandstone, with just a ribbon of Silurian and Cambrian formation along the cliffs on both sides of Smerwick Harbour and

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a broad band of carboniferous limestone runs through the land. It begins near Ballylongford in North Kerry and bends in the shape of the letter S round by Ardfert and Tralee, on to Castleisland, and southwards then to Killarney Lakes. This limestone marks the most fertile area in Kerry. It crops up out of the drift area of millstone grit and shale. The hills along the shores of the Kenmare River show smooth round forms that tell geologists stories of the Ice Age. A Kerry farmer was asked what he would say if told the whole of those hills had been grooved and polished by ice. He replied: "Well, sir, I'd be apt to say you were a liar." The geology of Kerry is simple: limestone, millstone grit, and Old Red Sandstone, with a ribbon of Silurian and Cambrian formation along the cliffs on both sides of Smerwick Harbour.

55. Connor Hill mountain pass

    Connor Hill · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    The Connor Hill pass is noted as a principal mountain pass situated between Dingle, Cloghane, and Castlegregory.

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    (6) The Connor Hill pass, between Dingle, Cloghane, and Castlegregory.

    The roads over these principal passes are all good, and though the ascents and descents are in some instances steep and impossible to ride on a bicycle in places, there is nothing to stop a cyclist who is capable of walking for some little distance. Motor cars can be used on all the above passes. Other passes occur in different parts of the county, where the roads, though suitable for pedestrians and possible for cars, cannot be recommended as ideal roads to cyclists or motorists.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Connor Hill is a mountain pass between Dingle, Cloghane, and Castlegregory. The road over it is good, though the ascents and descents are steep in places. A cyclist might have to walk some stretches, but nothing stops one who is willing to do that. Motor cars can use the pass. The book that notes this calls it one of the principal passes of Kerry. It says other passes exist in the county, with roads that serve pedestrians and cars but are not recommended as ideal for cyclists or motorists.

56. Dominican church and monastery in Day Place, Tralee

    Tralee · townland · Kerry

    At the time of writing, the Dominicans have a beautiful church and monastery in Day Place, Tralee, scarcely a stone's-throw from the site of the old abbey founded in the 13th century by John of Callan.

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    Dominican nuns in Lisbon. He died in 1663. The Dominicans at the present time have a beautiful church and monastery in Tralee, in Day Place, scarcely a stone's-throw from the site of the old abbey founded in the 13th century by John of Callan.

    With regard to the secular history of Tralee it has been before said that the old castle, which stood near the site of the houses on the N. side of Denny Street, was once on a time the chief stronghold of the Geraldines. After the Battle of Callan in 1 26 1, the legends have it that the infant heir of Maurice slain in that battle was seized by an ape and poised over the battlements of the castle, and that the ape afterwards conveyed the child to a place of safety and spared its life, to become the founder of the Desmond line. From the incident, the crest, a monkey and motto, Crom-a-boo, is said to have had its origin. " Crom-a-boo " became the war-cry of the Desmonds.

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Tralee, the Dominicans have a beautiful church and monastery in Day Place, scarcely a stone's-throw from the site of the old abbey founded in the 13th century by John of Callan. The old castle of Tralee once stood near the site of the houses on the north side of Denny Street, and it was once the chief stronghold of the Geraldines. After the Battle of Callan, the legends have it that the infant heir of Maurice, slain in that battle, was seized by an ape and poised over the battlements of the castle. The ape afterwards conveyed the child to a place of safety and spared its life, so that the child grew to become the founder of the Desmond line. From that incident, the crest of a monkey and the motto Crom-a-boo are said to have had their origin. Crom-a-boo became the war-cry of the Desmonds.

57. Dunloe Castle tower above the Laune

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry

    A quaint old tower known as Dunloe Castle stands near the River Laune, passed on the right when driving toward the Gap of Dunloe. It is noted as a landmark on the approach route.

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    across the Laune, leaving the quaint old tower of Dunloe Castle on the right, to a point where a cross road running to the left goes through the wide glen which leads to the pass called the Gap of Dunloe. This drive is especially attractive, being close to a mountain stream issuing from the Black Lake and Cushvally Lake on the right of the road to the cottage at the foot of the pass, which marks the end of the journey by car. From here the traveller can proceed either on foot or on pony-back through the gap (4m.). The scenery is impressive. The Purple Mountain on the 1 eft h and rises to a height of 2 7 3 7 ft. , whilst on the right the high ridge of the " Reeks" breaks suddenly into a precipice of extraordinary boldness. About a mile from its entrance the '' Gap " broadens out, and the road leads by a zigzag to the summit of the pass. The wooded valley of Geerameen comes gradually in sight, and as the road winds down the hillside a glorious view of Coom Duv or the " Black Valley " is obtained. At the foot of the hill the road turns to the L., and goes along to the Geerameen River and through pleasant woods to " Lord Brandon's Cottage " and the boat landing-stage of Geerameen. Just before entering the woods a branch road to the right leads through the valley of O wenreagh, to the Windy Gap on the main road between Killarney and Kenmare. The road from this point can be safely recommended to cyclists and foot passengers, the distance from Geerameen to the Windy Gap being 5 m.

    Arrived at Geerameen landing-stage, the journey homewards can be made by boat over the waters of the Upper Lake, 10 to 12 m., according to the part of the Lower Lake to which the visitor returns. Should time permit, a stop should be made at

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 45

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Dunloe in Kerry, the road crosses the River Laune, and the old tower of Dunloe Castle stands as a landmark on the approach to one of the most striking drives in the country. The tower is a quaint old structure, noted by travellers for generations as the sign that the Gap of Dunloe lies ahead. Beyond the tower, a cross road runs left through a wide glen leading toward the pass itself. The drive is especially attractive, running close to a mountain stream that issues from the Black Lake and Cushvally Lake, past a cottage at the foot of the pass where the car journey ends. From there, you can go on foot or on pony-back through the gap, a passage of about 4 metres. The scenery is impressive. The Purple Mountain rises on the left to 2737 feet, while on the right the high ridge of the Reeks breaks suddenly into a precipice of extraordinary boldness. About a mile from the entrance the gap broadens out, and the road leads by a zigzag to the summit of the pass. The wooded valley of Geerameen comes gradually into sight, and as the road winds down the hillside a glorious view opens of Coom Duv, the Black Valley. At the foot of the hill the road turns and follows along to the Geerameen River, through pleasant woods, to Lord Brandon's Cottage and the boat landing-stage at Geerameen. Just before the woods, a branch road to the right leads through the valley of Owenreagh to the Windy Gap on the main road between Killarney and Kenmare. From the Geerameen landing-stage, the journey homewards can be made by boat across the waters of the Upper Lake, 10 to 12 metres depending on the part of the Lower Lake to which you return.

58. Fenit seaport and mountain panorama

    Fenit · town · Kerry

    Fenit is a quiet seaport and fishing village seven miles from Tralee, remarkable for its lovely views and bracing air. From this point the whole range of mountains from Slieve Mish to Brandon is visible, each peak distinct and recognisable.

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    It would be hard to find a more perfect panorama of mountains than which is seen from Fenit. The low-lying sandbank, which goes by the name of the Magharees, runs out seawards from the cultivated lowlands at the base of the mountains, and divides Brandon Bay from the bay of Tralee. The great rock which stands out midway between Kerry Head and the Magharees is called " Mucklagh More." On this rock the lesser black-backed gulls breed in large numbers. Mucklaghbeg is the flat sea-swept reef nearer the mainland of Fenit. On this flat rock the turnstone is seen in the spring.

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    Fenit is a quiet seaport and fishing village, seven miles from Tralee. It would be hard to find a more perfect panorama of mountains than the one seen from here. The whole range from Slieve Mish to Brandon stands clear, each peak distinct. Below them, a low sandbank called the Magharees runs out seaward from the cultivated lowlands, dividing Brandon Bay from the bay of Tralee. A great rock stands midway between Kerry Head and the Magharees, called Mucklagh More. The lesser black-backed gulls breed there in large numbers. Mucklaghbeg is the flat sea-swept reef nearer the mainland, where the turnstone is seen in the spring.

59. Grenagh, formerly O'Connell family property

    Grenagh · townland · Kerry

    The road descends from the gates of Grenagh, formerly belonging to the O'Connell family, toward Beaufort Bridge. The property is noted as part of the landscape approach to Beaufort village.

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    and 2 1 from Beaufort. Half-a-mile beyond this a little ruined chapel is seen on the right, nameless but picturesque. Another half-a-mile farther and the road begins to descend an incline from the gates of Grenagh (formerly belonging to the O'Connell family) to Beaufort Bridge. A farm-house, with gable ends and an air of comfort and prosperity about it, is seen on the rise of the hill to the right. This farm belongs to Mr M*Kay, and is most interesting to antiquarians, as being the site of " The Palace," or chief residence of the powerful family of Mac- Carthy More. It is sometimes written "The Pallis.'^ Little remains to mark the site of this once famous place, and it is said that many of the stones were taken to build the piggeries at Beaufort House. It must have been a beautifully situated " Palace," with a view unsurpassed.

    As the traveller nears Beaufort Bridge he should specially note the view looking up the Laune River to the Gap of Dunloe. Across the bridge the lodge gate of Beaufort House is passed on the L., and a small collection of houses, picturesque in their way, with a post office and police barrack, mark the village. Half-a-mile farther on the demesne of Dunloe is met on the L. Four hundred yards due S. of the entrance gate, at the edge of a small plantation, is the cave of Dunloe, famous for its Ogham stones. About the year 1838 some workmen discovered this subterranean chamber, rudely built and covered with flagstones. These stones are all inscribed with Ogham characters. For some few remarks on these Ogham monuments see Section IX., under the head of " Antiquities."

    Internet Archive kerry00cran, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Grenagh, the road descends from the gates of a property that once belonged to the O'Connell family, down toward Beaufort Bridge. On the rise of the hill, a farm-house stands with gable ends and an air of comfort and prosperity about it. This farm belongs to Mr M*Kay, and it is most interesting to antiquarians, for it is the site of what was called The Palace, or sometimes written The Pallis, the chief residence of the powerful family of Mac-Carthy More. Little remains now to mark the site of this once famous place. It is said that many of the stones were taken to build the piggeries at Beaufort House. It must have been a beautifully situated palace, with a view unsurpassed. As you near Beaufort Bridge, the view looking up the Laune River toward the Gap of Dunloe is one to note. Across the bridge, the lodge gate of Beaufort House is passed, and a small collection of houses, picturesque in their way, with a post office and police barrack, mark the village. Half a mile farther on, the demesne of Dunloe is met. Four hundred yards due south of the entrance gate, at the edge of a small plantation, is the cave of Dunloe, famous for its Ogham stones. About the year 1838, some workmen discovered this subterranean chamber, rudely built and covered with flagstones, all inscribed with Ogham characters.

60. Killarney Town Hall built 1860 by Earl of Kenmare

    Killarney · townland · Kerry · 1860

    A small, unpretentious red brick Town Hall was built in 1860 by the Earl of Kenmare for the benefit of the town. It stood on the N.W. end of the Main Street near the Protestant Episcopal Church.

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    (3) Almost opposite the gate of the Presentation Convent is the *' Castlerosse School of Industry," which comprises a school for wood-carving and also a school of domestic economy. The carving school was started in the year 1894 by Lady Castlerosse. Continuing our walk through the grounds of the Cathedral and past the palace of the Bishop of Kerry, we come to a road fringed by lime trees, and turning to the R. about two hundred yards or so we see on the L. the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy, where also is a school for girls. Again turning to the R., we enter the town by the N. W. end of the Main Street, and passing the small, unpretentious, red brick Town Hall, built in i860 by the Earl of Kenmare for the benefit of the town, we come to the Protestant Episcopal Church on the left-hand side, opposite the Munster and Leinster Bank. This church, with its graceful white spire, is of quite modern architecture. It contains a fine organ, good stainedglass windows, memorials to various members of the family of Herbert of Cahirnane, and also a tablet to the memory of the wife of an officer (Captain Turner) who died at Ross Castle in 1825, and of whom it is said on the tablet she was " all that is aimable [sic) in Woman." But of old monuments, tombstones, or records the church is destitute — being a comparatively new edifice. Visitors will not remain long in the town of Killarney when the

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in Killarney stands a small, unpretentious red brick Town Hall, built in 1860 by the Earl of Kenmare for the benefit of the town. It sat at the northwest end of the Main Street. Passing it, you would come to the Protestant Episcopal Church, opposite the Munster and Leinster Bank. The church had a graceful white spire and was of quite modern architecture. Inside were a fine organ, good stained glass windows, and memorials to various members of the family of Herbert of Cahirnane. There was also a tablet to the memory of the wife of Captain Turner, an officer, who died at Ross Castle in 1825. The tablet described her as "all that is aimable in Woman." Despite these fittings, the church was destitute of old monuments, tombstones, or records, being a comparatively new edifice. The approach to the Town Hall came through the grounds of the Cathedral, past the palace of the Bishop of Kerry, to a road fringed by lime trees. Opposite the gate of the Presentation Convent stood the Castlerosse School of Industry, with a school for wood-carving and one for domestic economy. The carving school was started in 1894 by Lady Castlerosse.