A Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Great Skellig monastery and penitential site

   near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry · 812

   An early Christian monastery once stood on Great Skellig, whose ruins may still be seen. The island was devastated by the Danes in 812 and the monks starved in their cells. It was long a place of penitential pilgrimage, with devotees climbing the highest summits and performing orisons at stations along the way.

   Read the passage

   tached rocks, the largest of which—the Great Skellig—is about nine miles from Bolus Head, the southern cape of county Kerry, and some twelve to the south-west of Bray Head. They are the favourite haunt of sea-birds, notably gannets; at times, indeed, they are nearly covered with them. The larger island is an enormous mass of slaty rock, divided, at the height of about fifty yards, into two pyramidal summits, the higher of which reaches an altitude of some 700 feet; the other is 100 feet lower. In early times there was a monastery here, the ruins of which may still be seen; but the island was devastated by the Danes in 812, and the monks were starved in their cells. Until recently, the island was a place of penance, and was annually visited by great numbers of devotees, who climbed the highest summits, stopping at various stations and performing orisons at each. Two lighthouses were erected on the island in 1826 and are connected by a road along the face of the cliff.

   Cahirciveen to Parknasilla.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

2. Baltimore and the Algerian pirate raid of 1631

   Baltimore · town · Cork · 1601–1631

   Baltimore joined the Tyrone rebellion in 1601, placing its castles in Spanish hands, which led to an English colony being introduced. In 1631, Algerian pirates attacked the town, massacring inhabitants and carrying off about 200 settlers as slaves.

   Read the passage

   Baltimore has a history of some interest. The owners of the soul joined the Tyrone rebellion in 1601 and placed their castles in the hands of the Spaniards. This led to the introduction of an English colony into the town, which was then walled and incorporated and obtained the privilege of parlia- . mentary representation. In 1631 it was attacked by Algerian pirates, who massacred the inhabitants and carried off two hundred of the settlers as slaves. The Technical School of Fisheries, near)the station, an institution of some importance, may be seen by visitors.

   There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, commanding the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church hasa fine tower. The Harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three miles long by two_broad, and of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical proclivities of the O’Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

   As the companion tells it

   As you come through Baltimore, the town carries a history worth knowing. In 1601 the owners of the soil joined the Tyrone rebellion and placed their castles in the hands of the Spaniards. That led to the introduction of an English colony into the town. The place was then walled and incorporated, and obtained the privilege of parliamentary representation. In 1631 it was attacked by Algerian pirates, who massacred the inhabitants and carried off 200 of the settlers as slaves. A rock commanding the harbour is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the church has a fine tower. The harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, at the mouth of the bay, about 3 miles long by 2 broad. Of old it contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, to punish the piratical proclivities of the O'Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins can be well seen from the Beacon, so only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

3. Innisfallen Abbey founded by St Finian Lobhar, 600 AD

   Innisfallen · townland · Kerry · 600

   Innisfallen Abbey was built in the year 600 by St Finian Lobhar ('the Leper') and inhabited by Canons Regular of the order of St Augustine. The monks compiled the celebrated Annals of Innisfallen, one of the real histories of Ireland after the introduction of Christianity.

   Read the passage

   The remains of Innisfallen Abbey, scattered all over the island, show that it was at one time very extensive. It was built in the year 600 by St. Finian Lobhar (“‘ the Leper ’’), and inhabited by Canons Regular of the order of St. Augustine, who busied themselves in the compilation of the celebrated ‘‘ Annals of Innisfallen,’’? which, with those of Ulster Tigernach, form the real history of Ireland after the introduction of Christianity. The original manuscript is in the Bodleian Library, Oxford ; it is on parchment, and contains fifty-seven quarto leaves. Several copies have been made. There is one in Dublin, in the library of Trinity College. In 1893 the Archeological Society of Ireland made a thorough examination of the ruins of the abbey. They discovered several old tombstones and the altar—which was restored to its proper place—beneath the beautiful east window. The stones of this window were found buried near the spot and the Society had it re-erected.

   Having walked round the island, and visited all the spots worth seeing, not omitting the ruins of the Oratory, of older date than the monastery, we row across the lake to—

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 43

4. Perkin Warbeck and the loss of Cork's charter

   Cork · city · Cork · 1492–1498

   In 1492, the citizens of Cork embraced the cause of Perkin Warbeck, and the mayor Walters joined his expedition and was executed. Consequently, Cork lost its charter and was invested by the Earl of Kildare in 1498, forcing inhabitants to swear fealty to Henry VII.

   Read the passage

   what was far worse, their own money. The English Parliament went the length of calling the Cork coinage ‘‘ utterly damned,’’ an outbreak of temper which was perhaps excusable, but not dignified. The Cork people of those days seem to have possessed a genius for aggravation, for, while declining to send representatives to Parliament, they turned deaf ears to the solicitations of the tax gatherer on the ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes ! When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour, and the mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, losing his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter; and, being still “‘ suspect,’ was invested in 1498 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong force, when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. When it was intended to proclaim James I, the mayor took upon himself to ask the Lords Commissioners what were the king’s intentions in the matter of freedom of conscience, and failing to obtain a satisfactory answer, clapt ‘“‘my lords’”’ into Shandon Castle, pending further information. When it was found that James was not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclamation, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason.

   In 1600,Camden describes the city as “of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one straight street, continued by a bridge; it is, however, a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.”’

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

   As the companion tells it

   The road takes you through Cork, a city with a long talent for provocation. The English Parliament once called the Cork coinage "utterly damned." The Cork people declined to send representatives to Parliament, and they turned deaf ears to the tax gatherer on the ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes. When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour. The mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, and lost his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter. Being still "suspect," the city was invested in 1498 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong force, when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. Later, when it was intended to proclaim James I, the mayor asked the Lords Commissioners what were the king's intentions in the matter of freedom of conscience. Failing to obtain a satisfactory answer, he clapt "my lords" into Shandon Castle, pending further information. When it was found that James was not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclamation, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason. In 1600, Camden described the city as "of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one straight street, continued by a bridge; a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged."

5. The Turnpike — Echo Phenomenon in the Gap

   near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

   Near Black Lough, where the valley narrows, curious rocks called the Turnpike mark the point where cars cannot proceed and ponies wait. A man fires a small cannon for sixpence a shot, producing extraordinary echoes that bounce between the peaks and precipices of the Purple Mountain and the Reeks.

   Read the passage

   Close to Black Lough, where the valley narrows so as to leave scarcely room for the road and the stream, we come to some curious rocks, called the Turnpike. As cars cannot proceed’ farther, it is usual to have ponies waiting here. Sometimes a man will come forward, and, for sixpence a shot, or cheaper “if a quantity are taken,” fire a small cannon. The effect is wonderful. A thousand repetitions spring from the mountain, caverns and hollows; a perfect torrent of thunder rushes from the peaks and ravines and is hurled back by the precipices of the Purple Mountain. Again the assault of sound is made on the Reeks, and repulsed from the Purple Rocks ; and this conflict of sound goes on between rock and rock, booming like a great piece of ordnance, until, |

   Killarney (i)

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 46

6. Drake's Pool legend of concealment

   Drake's Pool · minor feature · Cork · 1587

   Drake entered Cork Harbour with five sloops and was pursued by a Spanish fleet that searched every creek and channel for days. The Spaniards, attributing his disappearance to magic, departed, whereupon Drake emerged from behind the woods at the river's head; the spot has since been called Drake's Pool.

   Read the passage

   Spanish fleet which was desirous of making his. further acquaintance. With his five little sloops he made for Cork harbour, and was by the Spaniards clearly seen to enter. The tactics which served the Americans in 1898, when Admiral Cervera was in similar plight at Santiago, did not serve Cervera’s predecessors in the days of Queen Bess. Instead of waiting quietly until Drake should come out, the Spaniards went in to look for him. They scoured the harbour from east to west, and from north to south, exploring as they thought every creek, winding and channel, but Drake was not to be seen. For days the search continued, and at length the Spaniards, attributing his disappearance to magic, thought well to disappear also. Upon which out came Drake with his merry men from behind those very woods which seem to mark the water’s limit! The secluded spot has since been known as Drake’s Pool.

   Crosshaven.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 21

7. Monkstown Castle and Anstatia Goold's tradition

   Monkstown · townland · Cork · 1580–1600

   Monkstown derives its name from a colony of Benedictine monks. The ruins of an Elizabethan fortified residence, called Monkstown Castle or O'Mahony's Castle, were traditionally built by Anstatia Goold while her husband John Archdecken fought under Philip of Spain, cleverly recouping the cost by selling food to the workmen.

   Read the passage

   half a mile further south, is believed to derive its name from a colony of Benedictine monks. The place contains the ruins of an Elizabethan fortified residence, known diversely as Monkstown Castle and O’Mahony’s Castle. Tradition declares Anstatia Goold, whose lord, one John Archdecken, was fighting under Philip of Spain (possibly against his lawful sovereign), feeling “lonesome like ”’ during his long absence from home, conceived the idea of erecting this castle to while away the time and to surprise him on his return. Being, like John Gilpin’s spouse, of a frugal mind, she shrewdly stipulated that the workmen should buy all their food from her. They either lived very extravagantly, or were greatly overcharged, for "the lady’s profits were so considerable that it was

   48 QUEENSTOWN

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 19

8. Sir William Petty's English colony at Nedeen (Kenmare), 1670

   Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1670–1690

   Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen and was founded by Sir William Petty, ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, who planted a colony of English settlers there in 1670. The colonists established fisheries and iron works but were harassed by the Irish, eventually surrendering and departing for Bristol. After the Williamite conquest, the colony was re-established, though the iron trade later declined through exhaustion of forests for fuel.

   Read the passage

   Kenmare is a fairly prosperous market town, at the head of the beautiful estuary to which it gives its name; or, rather, from which it receives its name, for, according to Dr. Joyce, Kenmare signifies “‘ head of the sea.’’ The town is chiefly interesting to tourists from its position as a kind of coaching junction, being the half-way place between Glengariff and Killarney, and the terminus of the Kerry coast tour. It also possesses a lively interest from the fact that it is the halting-place for luncheon, for which, after a long mountain drive, most passengers are more than ready. Whether the Southern or the less pretentious Lansdowne be patronised, good value is given. Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen, and owes its existence to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty, having obtained a grant of land, planted. a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale; but were harrassed by the Irish, and surrendering, after some resistance, were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ireland by William III, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed ; but the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel.

   To-day, Kenmare consists of a main street, leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. There is a good pier a little to the west of the town ; and the bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of the kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice, with a lofty spire, and is handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, the most important feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent,*can be seen and bought at the hotels, but no one will regret visiting the institution itself. It is wonderful to see how the devoted nuns succeed in training their young pupils, Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy and

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 57

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is where Sir William Petty built his colony. Kenmare was originally called Nedeen. The name Kenmare, according to Dr. Joyce, means “head of the sea.” Petty was the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal landowner hereabouts. Having obtained a grant of land, he planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale. But the Irish harassed them. After some resistance they surrendered, and were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. When William III conquered Ireland, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed. But the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel. The town sits at the head of the beautiful estuary that gives it its name. It is a coaching junction of sorts, the halfway place between Glengariff and Killarney, and the terminus of the Kerry coast tour. After a long mountain drive, most passengers are more than ready for the luncheon stop here. The Southern and the less pretentious Lansdowne hotels both give good value. Today there is a main street leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. A good pier stands a little to the west of the town. The bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of its kind in Ireland, and it forms a striking object in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice with a lofty spire, handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is the most important feature of the town. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels. But visiting the institution itself is worth the time, to see how the devoted nuns train their young pupils in the delicacy of the work.

9. Black Lough — St. Patrick and the Last Serpent

   Black Lough · lake or lakes · Donegal

   Black Lough, the farthest of the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes, is remarkable for the inky blackness and coldness of its waters and its total absence of fish. Local tradition holds that this is the spot where St. Patrick drowned the last serpent in Ireland.

   Read the passage

   The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks, and running almost due south for about four miles. The gates of this romantic valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarcely give room for the road. The hills on either side are spurs of the great mountains, called respectively the Holly and Bull Mountains. A small stream traverses the valley, expanding in places into gloomy lakes, called the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes, remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters. The farthest of them, Black Lough, exceeds the others in this respect and in coldness. » While the other lakelets abound in fish, this has none; and Paddy assures us that this is due to the fact that the: lake is the identical spot where St. Patrick drowned the last serpent.

   Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side in wild confusion, apparently ready to topple over and crush the visitor. The narrow torrent is twice crossed by the road, the brawling waters intensifying the desolate but sublime character of the scene. As we advance, the outline of the mountains changes. Huge boulders appear above the path, and shattered fragments of rock strew the steep mountain slopes. The Purple Mountain, with all its chromatic beauties; the Tomies, with its glowing lights and intense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their aspiring summits ; then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold, still, and silent as death, combine to make a picture which has no equal in Killarney. It is a scene of utter solitude and desolation—a picture of the valley of the shadow of death. In a distance of about two miles. after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road rises some 400 feet, the way being encumbered with rocks.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 46

10. Dunloe Castle and the 1641 siege

    Dunloe Castle · castle · Kerry · 1641

    Dunloe Castle stands on a small hill, originally built to defend the river pass and guard Dunloe Gap. It withstood struggles under Henry and Elizabeth, and in the civil war of 1641 General Ludlow besieged it until the garrison surrendered after much of the fortress was ruined.

    Read the passage

    standing prominently on the summit of a small hill. It is a fine object in the landscape, and the views from it are extremely picturesque. Originally erected for the defence of the pass of the river and for guarding Dunloe Gap, the fortress withstood some severe struggles during the reigns of Henry and Elizabeth. In the civil war of 1641 General Ludlow besieged it ; the garrison made a brave defence, and only surrendered when the greater part of the fortress had been laid in ruins. The castle has been adapted as a residence, but retains enough of its warlike character to show how capable of withstanding the brunt of combat it was in the brave days of old. The excursion to Dunloe Castle is frequently made by water, the row along the river Laune being particularly pleasing.

    Continuing the ride for another half-mile, we reach the entrance to the celebrated—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 45

11. Father Mathew's ministry among Cork's poor

    Cork · city · Cork · 1813–1837

    After a short charge at Kilkenny, Father Mathew came to Cork and spent twenty-four years working among the poorest classes of the city. His generosity and sterling character made him respected and beloved before he launched the temperance movement.

    Read the passage

    The great Irish Apostle of Temperance was born at Thomastown House, Tipperary, in 1790, his father being agent to, and a relative of, Lord Llandaff. The Mathews were originally a Welsh family, but settled in Ireland in 1637. Mathew did not distinguish himself either at school or at Maynooth, except for his reckless hospi-_ tality. He is said to have been sent down from Maynooth for violating the college rules by giving a feast in his room. He was ordained a priest in his twenty-third year, attaching himself to the Capuchins. After a short charge at Kilkenny, he came to Cork, and for twenty-four years led a busy and uneventful life amongst the poorest classes of the city. His sterling character and unbounded generosity made him respected and beloved, but probably no one would have been more surprised than himself to learn what a prominent part he was shortly to play. Ireland was at this time in a condition deplorable beyond description. In Carlyle’s words: ‘A third part of the Irish people had not for thirty weeks. in the year as many third-rate potatoes as would give them food.” Mathew seems constantly to have urged his people to adopt temperance as a remedy for many of their ills, but his words had little effect, nor was he himself a total abstainer. At the age of fortyseven some Quakers begged him to lend his powerful support to a temperance movement they had recently inaugurated. He hesitated long, then called a meeting of his friends, and saying, “ Here goes, in the name of God,” signed the total abstinence pledge. His success as a temperance advocate was immediate and astounding. In less than three months he had enrolled 25,000 teetotalers. A month or two later the number swelled to 130,000, then to 200,000, and ere long it was calculated that half the population of Ireland, then much greater than now, had taken the pledge. 150,000 were known to come forward in four days. What is more, for some years at least, most of the people kept their pledges. The duties on Irish spirits dropped from £1,434,753 in 1839, to £852,418 in 1844. Not only in Ireland, but in Scotland, England, and the States, the Father won hosts of adherents. But his success was comparatively short-lived. The terrible famine of 1845 and subsequent years, and the sufferings it entailed, led many to seek again the old consolation. Mathew was indefatigable in his efforts to provide the necessaries of life for his people, begging from friends and impoverishing himself, but his movement to a great extent collapsed. In expectation of a legacy of £7,000 he had spent large sums in providing badges and tokens for his numerous societies, and when the legacy failed Mathew found himself heavily involved, and was actually on one occasion arrested for debt. To the credit of the English Government, he was awarded a pension of £300. He died, broken in healthbut still “‘ pledging,”’ at Queenstown, on December 8, 1856. A simple cross marks his grave in St. Joseph’s Cemetery, a burial-ground which he himself established so that, in the words of Thackeray, ‘‘ Protestants and Catholics might lie together without clergymen quarrelling over their coffins.”

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Cork, this is the city where Father Theobald Mathew spent twenty-four years among the poorest of its people. He was born in 1790 at Thomastown House in Tipperary, his father agent and relative to Lord Llandaff. The Mathews were a Welsh family who settled in Ireland in 1637. He did not distinguish himself at school or at Maynooth, except for reckless hospitality. He was said to have been sent down from Maynooth for breaking college rules by giving a feast in his room. He was ordained a priest in his twenty-third year and joined the Capuchins. After a short charge at Kilkenny, he came to Cork and led a busy and uneventful life among the poorest classes of the city. His sterling character and unbounded generosity made him respected and beloved. Probably no one would have been more surprised than himself to learn what a prominent part he was shortly to play. He constantly urged his people to adopt temperance as a remedy for many of their ills, but his words had little effect, and he was not himself a total abstainer. Ireland at this time was in a condition deplorable beyond description. Carlyle wrote that a third part of the Irish people had not for thirty weeks in the year as many third-rate potatoes as would give them food. It was at the age of 47 that some Quakers begged him to lend his powerful support to a temperance movement they had recently inaugurated. He hesitated long, then called a meeting of his friends, and saying, "Here goes, in the name of God," signed the total abstinence pledge.

12. Rock of Cashel cathedral and Cormac's Chapel

    Cashel · town · Tipperary · 1127–1495

    The Rock of Cashel is an ancient episcopal city with ruins of a cathedral on the summit, burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare. Cormac's Chapel was built in 1127, and the site includes the palace of the kings of Munster with a round tower 90 feet high.

    Read the passage

    of the Rock are among the finest in the country. The edifice was benevolently burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare, “because he thought the archbishop was within!” This candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the Cathedral, there are on the rock Cormac’s Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, go feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from—but in full view of — thes Rock.

    Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (vef. voom), where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station, we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muek extending east and west in front of us.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cashel, the Rock stands above the town with some of the finest ruins in the country. The cathedral on the summit was burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare. His reason, as the record puts it, was "because he thought the archbishop was within." That candid explanation, curiously enough, gained him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Cormac's Chapel on the rock was built in 1127. The site also holds the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower 90 feet high. About a quarter of a mile away, in full view of the Rock, stands the Grey Abbey, also called Hore Abbey, founded in 1278 by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel. It is a picturesque ruin. The Galtee Mountains rise beyond, some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland.

13. Owenabwee (Amber Water) and Drake's Pool

    Drake's Pool · minor feature · Cork · 1587

    Near Currabinny, a wide creek is in fact the Carrigaline River, known as the Owenabwee or 'Amber Water,' navigable for five miles inland at high tide. In 1587 Sir Francis Drake hid his sloops up this river from a pursuing Spanish fleet, emerging after days from behind concealing woods.

    Read the passage

    Carlisle Fort frowns above us on the east, and to the west we have a much indented coast-line, backed by hills and woods. Nearing Currabinny we sight to the right what is apparently a wide creek running inland as far as some woods, a mile or so away. To this creek a pretty story is attached which Englishmen cannot but love to hear. In the first place the creek is not a creek at all, but a river, known variously as the Carrigaline River, or the Owenabwee, “‘ Amber Water.’ Then, instead of a seeming course of one mile, it extends inland, after a sharp twist, for something like twenty miles, further, in fact, than to Kinsale Junction, on the Bandon line. For the first five miles or so, to the Carrigaline road, the water is fairly deep, and navigable at high tide. In the year 1587 Admiral Sir Francis Drake, having singed the Spaniard’s beard and committed other enormities, found it conyenient to show a clean pair of heels to a powerfy]

    Pa

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 20

14. Sir Walter Raleigh's Myrtle Grove, Youghal

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1579–1589

    Myrtle Grove belonged to Sir Walter Raleigh, granted to him as reward for repressing the Earl of Desmond's rebellion in 1579. While residing there, Raleigh planted the first potatoes in Ireland, brought from Virginia, and startled his servants by smoking tobacco. He served as mayor of Youghal in 1588-9.

    Read the passage

    which belonged to Sir Walter Raleigh, having formed part of a grant of land with which he was rewarded for repressing the rebellion of the Earl of Desmond in 1579. It was while residing here that Raleigh planted the first potatoes in Ireland, having brought some from Virginia, and also startled his. domestics by smoking tobacco, He was mayor of the

    64 YOUGHAL TO CAPRPCOUE

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 26

15. Sherkin Island Franciscan abbey and castle destroyed by Waterford citizens

    near Sherkin Island · townland · Cork

    Sherkin Island, the largest in Baltimore bay, formerly contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by citizens of Waterford to punish the piratical proclivities of the O'Driscolls, who owned the islands and a slice of the mainland.

    Read the passage

    There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, commanding the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church hasa fine tower. The Harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three miles long by two_broad, and of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical proclivities of the O’Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

    The Schull and Skibbereen Light Railway,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

16. Atlantic Cable landing at Valentia

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 1857–1866

    The first Atlantic Cable began to be laid on 5 August 1857 but snapped after 300 miles; after several failures, a cable was successfully laid in July 1866. Valentia housed the Anglo-American Telegraph Co.'s Cable Station, which tourists could inspect with special facilities or a prior order from the Secretary in London.

    Read the passage

    It will be remembered that the first Atlantic Cable began to be laid on August 5, 1857, but six days later it snapped, after three hundred miles’ had been paid out. A second attempt failed through a violent storm, June 20, 1858. Success awaited the third attempt, and on August 5 the first messages passed between Queen Victoria and the President of the United States. On September 4 this cable also failed, after 271 messages had been transmitted, and it was not until 1865 that another was undertaken. That was cut in midocean, but another was successfully laid in July, 1866, and the one of the previous year raised and finished.

    A Trip to the Skelligs.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

17. Charles James Fox swam the Devil's Punch Bowl

    Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry · 1772

    Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the Devil's Punch Bowl tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772. The feat is notable given the tarn's reputation for extreme cold and unfathomable depth.

    Read the passage

    and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path: It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top oa foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Guittane, a considerable lake, singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing, we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil’s Punch Bowl. It is atarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil’s Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom—at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Koumaare MV L772.

    By the time the ordnance mark on the summit is in sigtit, the path becomes less difficult, for we tread on a peaty soil. At the mound we are 2,756 feet above the sea, and a glorious panorama rewards our exertions. Away to the east, the Boggerah Mountains and the Paps loom cloud-like and blue ; far on the north, the river Shannon is just discernible, and nearer rise the Slieve Miskish Mountains; on the west we view the rocky ranges of Iveragh, Dingle Bay and the Kenmare Fiord ; southward we see the distant Caha Mountains that shadow Glengariff and rise over Bantry Bay. But nearer there are greater charms of scenery, for the three lakes lie at our feet, and we overlook their fairy islands. The town seems but a stone’s-throw away, and we can trace the roads that converge to it for many a mile into the country. Like silver threads, we see the streams and rivers running amongst verdant meadows, with the gem-like sheen of the arbutus bowers that gird the glancing lakes; higher, is a darker zone of tasselled pines. The Macgillycuddy Reeks stand out in all their magnificence, Carran Tual like a monarch proudly overtopping all. Nearer yet, the Purple Mountain and the Tomies rear their peaks ; and closer still are the Drooping Mountain and Tore. .

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 39

18. Government fortifications erected at Bantry

    Bantry · town · Cork · 1796

    Following the intense consternation caused by the failed French invasion attempt in 1796, the Government immediately erected fortifications at Bantry to prevent a future surprise attack.

    Read the passage

    tunity of landing without opposition, they sailed again for France, on the 27th of January, after a stay of five days in the bay. The consternation this event produced all over the country was intense, and the Government at once erected fortifications at Bantry to prevent a future surprise. —

    It was here that the crew of the Temeyraire (the old battleship of Turner’s famous painting) mutinied; but the firmness of Admiral Eyles probably saved his own life and the lives of his officers. He had twenty of the ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen of them were hung from the yard-arm.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry, you're passing the town where the Government threw up fortifications in 1796 after a French fleet spent five days in the bay and sailed back to France on the 27th of January without landing. The consternation across the country was intense, and the defences went up at once to prevent another surprise. It was also here that the crew of the Temeraire, the old battleship from Turner's famous painting, mutinied. Admiral Eyles had twenty of the ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen were hung from the yard-arm.

19. Old Head of Kinsale lighthouse and promontory

    near Old Head of Kinsale · promontory · Cork

    The Old Head of Kinsale is a bold promontory whose name derives from 'ceann satlle,' meaning 'a headland in the sea.' Its summit is crowned by a lighthouse, protecting the capacious harbour of Kinsale.

    Read the passage

    a bold promontory, the name of which—derived from ceann satlle, “a headland in the sea ’’—is happily descriptive. The summit is crowned by a lighthouse. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and Ringrone Castle, the latter of which was built by Milo de Courcey, the ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland (the title goes back to 1181). De Courcey was selected by King John as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France ; and, being adjudged the conqueror—his rival ran away without striking a blow—received as a reward for his gallantry the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

    -)

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 67

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Old Head of Kinsale, this bold promontory stretches into the sea, and its name comes from the Irish words for a headland in the water. The summit is crowned by a lighthouse that protects the harbour of Kinsale. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ringrone Castle, built by Milo de Courcey, ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland, a title going back to 1181. King John chose de Courcey as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France. His rival ran away without striking a blow, and de Courcey received the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

20. Ross Castle keep and O'Donoghue's leap legend

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Ross Castle's keep is a nearly perfect massive square tower with a spiral stone staircase, originally enclosed by an embattled curtain wall with round flanking towers. Guides point out the window where O'Donoghue leaped with his charger into the lake.

    Read the passage

    The keep of the castle is nearly perfect ; it consists of a massive square tower, with a spiral stone staircase to the top. Originally, it was enclosed by an embattled curtain wall, having round flanking towers at each side. It is one of the most prominent ornaments to the lake, not less for its associations than for its intrinsic beauty as a ruin. The guide will point out a hundred places connected with the memory of the O’Donoghue, including the identical window where he leaped, charger and all, into the lake.

    Ross Island is nearly in the middle of the lake, and stretches almost half across it. Close to the castle is the quay at which the tourist generally embarks, whether his object be to explore the beauties of Innisfallen or to row through the whole of the lakes.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 43

21. The Blarney Stone and the origin of the word 'blarney'

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    The Blarney Stone is set in the parapet on the western side of the tower. The word 'blarney,' meaning pleasant deluding talk, is said to have originated when Queen Elizabeth grew frustrated with McCarthy of Blarney's empty promises to surrender his lands and abjure tanistry.

    Read the passage

    “The word ‘ Blarney,’ meaning pleasant ‘ deluderin’ talk,’ is said to have originated at the court of Queen Elizabeth. McCarthy, the then chieftain over the clan of that name who resided at Blarney, was repeatedly asked to come in from ‘off his keeping,’ as the phrase in the State Papers goes, to abjure the system of Tanistry by which the clan elected the chief, and take tenure of his lands direct from the Crown. He was always promising with fair words and soft speech to do what was desired, but never could be got to come to the sticking point. The Queen, it is told, when one of his speeches was brought to her, said: ‘ This is all Sneek what he says he never means,’ ”’

    That it is worth while to kiss the stone cannot be doubted—j

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 24

22. Aghadoe round tower, castle and cathedral

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry · 800–1300

    Aghadoe holds the ruins of a round tower, a round castle called the 'Bishop's Chair,' and a cathedral with a Romanesque doorway. The round tower fragment is about 12 feet high; the castle, within an earthen enclosure, is thought to belong to the ninth century.

    Read the passage

    The Castle, called the ‘‘ Bishop’s Chair,” as the round tower is called the ‘‘ Pulpit,” is about 30 feet in height ; the walls are 7 feet thick, and contain a flight of stairs within. The castle stands within an earthen enclosure; and from this circumstance and its round configuration is thought to belong to the ninth century. :

    The Cathedral is about 80 feet long by 20 broad. It consists of nave and choir, divided by a wall, which was evidently once pierced by a door. The nave is believed to date from the seventh century ; the choir from the thirteenth. Few and broken as the walls are, they are embellished with an architectural gem, a Romanesque doorway of exquisite beauty, in the western wall of the nave. The stone is different from that used in the remainder of the edifice. The walls are densely covered with ivy.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 45

23. Cork's loyalty to the Stuarts and capture by Churchill

    Cork · city · Cork

    Cork proclaimed Charles II eleven days before London. Upon the deposition of James II, the city again suffered for its Stuart loyalty when Churchill captured it after a five-day siege with an Orange army.

    Read the passage

    When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was per- ‘formed in London. On the deposition of James II the city -once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, ‘and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song :—

    ‘

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, this city paid twice for its loyalty to the Stuarts. When Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered. Churchill appeared before its walls at the head of an Orange army and took it after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale was captured a few days later, and this gave rise to a famous Jacobite song.

24. Father Mathew's death at Queenstown

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork · 1856

    Father Theobald Mathew died at Queenstown on December 8, 1856, broken in health but still pledging people to temperance. He had impoverished himself through his efforts to relieve famine sufferers and was once arrested for debt.

    Read the passage

    The great Irish Apostle of Temperance was born at Thomastown House, Tipperary, in 1790, his father being agent to, and a relative of, Lord Llandaff. The Mathews were originally a Welsh family, but settled in Ireland in 1637. Mathew did not distinguish himself either at school or at Maynooth, except for his reckless hospi-_ tality. He is said to have been sent down from Maynooth for violating the college rules by giving a feast in his room. He was ordained a priest in his twenty-third year, attaching himself to the Capuchins. After a short charge at Kilkenny, he came to Cork, and for twenty-four years led a busy and uneventful life amongst the poorest classes of the city. His sterling character and unbounded generosity made him respected and beloved, but probably no one would have been more surprised than himself to learn what a prominent part he was shortly to play. Ireland was at this time in a condition deplorable beyond description. In Carlyle’s words: ‘A third part of the Irish people had not for thirty weeks. in the year as many third-rate potatoes as would give them food.” Mathew seems constantly to have urged his people to adopt temperance as a remedy for many of their ills, but his words had little effect, nor was he himself a total abstainer. At the age of fortyseven some Quakers begged him to lend his powerful support to a temperance movement they had recently inaugurated. He hesitated long, then called a meeting of his friends, and saying, “ Here goes, in the name of God,” signed the total abstinence pledge. His success as a temperance advocate was immediate and astounding. In less than three months he had enrolled 25,000 teetotalers. A month or two later the number swelled to 130,000, then to 200,000, and ere long it was calculated that half the population of Ireland, then much greater than now, had taken the pledge. 150,000 were known to come forward in four days. What is more, for some years at least, most of the people kept their pledges. The duties on Irish spirits dropped from £1,434,753 in 1839, to £852,418 in 1844. Not only in Ireland, but in Scotland, England, and the States, the Father won hosts of adherents. But his success was comparatively short-lived. The terrible famine of 1845 and subsequent years, and the sufferings it entailed, led many to seek again the old consolation. Mathew was indefatigable in his efforts to provide the necessaries of life for his people, begging from friends and impoverishing himself, but his movement to a great extent collapsed. In expectation of a legacy of £7,000 he had spent large sums in providing badges and tokens for his numerous societies, and when the legacy failed Mathew found himself heavily involved, and was actually on one occasion arrested for debt. To the credit of the English Government, he was awarded a pension of £300. He died, broken in healthbut still “‘ pledging,”’ at Queenstown, on December 8, 1856. A simple cross marks his grave in St. Joseph’s Cemetery, a burial-ground which he himself established so that, in the words of Thackeray, ‘‘ Protestants and Catholics might lie together without clergymen quarrelling over their coffins.”

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

25. French invasion attempts in Bantry Bay

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1689–1796

    Bantry Bay was the scene of two attempted French invasions. In 1689, a French fleet brought James II to Ireland, and in 1796, a French armament of 15,000 men was scattered by a storm and eventually sailed back to France.

    Read the passage

    The bay is historically interesting as having been the scene of two attempted invasions by the French. In 1689, their fleet, which brought to Ireland the ex-king of Great Britain, James II, entered. In a very short time, the English fleet, under Admiral Herbert, bore: down in pursuit ; but, being

    \

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1

26. Cork quay market scene

    Cork · city · Cork

    The quays of Cork resembled a Spanish bazaar in the variety of goods sold, from needles to anchors. On Saturday evenings the place thronged with the poorer classes, vendors shouting in choicest native wit, ragged poets selling ballads, and itinerant fiddlers playing the Rakes of Mallow.

    Read the passage

    Cork, with his coat buttoned behind.” The quay bears a close resemblance to a Spanish bazaar, both in the mode of selling and the variety of articles displayed. Everything can be had, from a needle to an anchor—from a flimsy cotton ball to a faded court suit. Chiefly on Saturday evenings, the place is thronged with the poorer classes, and as the crowd surges along the volubility and unlimited “ blarney ”’ of the vendors affords the reflective tourist both amusement and instruction. From the giddy height of their counters the merchants set forth the merits of their wares in phrases” replete with the choicest native wit and graced with the wildest blossoms of southern rhetoric. And all this confusion, eloquence, and trade is further enlivened and graced by several ragged ‘‘ poets’ singing and selling “a yard and a half of ballads for one ha’penny,” and itinerant Paganinis exhaustively scratching the ‘‘ Rakes of Mallow.’’

    30 tS

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, the quays here used to resemble a Spanish bazaar, both in the way goods were sold and the sheer variety on display. Everything could be had, from a needle to an anchor, from a flimsy cotton ball to a faded court suit. On Saturday evenings the place thronged with the poorer classes. The crowd would surge along, and the vendors' volubility and unlimited blarney gave the reflective tourist both amusement and instruction. From the giddy height of their counters, the merchants praised their wares in phrases full of the choicest native wit, graced with the wildest blossoms of southern rhetoric. All this confusion, eloquence, and trade was further enlivened by ragged poets singing and selling "a yard and a half of ballads for one ha'penny," and itinerant Paganinis exhaustively scratching the "Rakes of Mallow."

27. Cork surrenders to Cromwell in 1649

    Cork · city · Cork · 1649

    At the outbreak of war between Charles I and Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause. However, upon the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens surrendered at discretion, remembering the atrocities of Drogheda.

    Read the passage

    At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause; but on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at discretion.

    When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was per- ‘formed in London. On the deposition of James II the city -once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, ‘and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song :—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Cork, the city holds a story of shifting loyalties. When war broke out between Charles 1 and Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause. But on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at discretion. In due course, when Charles 2 regained the throne, he was proclaimed in Cork 11 days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James 2, the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls at the head of an Orange army and took it after a 5 days siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale was captured a few days later.

28. Devil's Punch Bowl: unfathomable tarn on Mangerton

    Devil's Punch Bowl · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Devil's Punch Bowl is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge on Mangerton Mountain, looking almost as black as ink from the overhanging steeps. No fish are found in it despite being plentiful in the outflowing stream, and it is said to have no bottom, having never been fathomed.

    Read the passage

    and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path: It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top oa foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Guittane, a considerable lake, singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing, we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil’s Punch Bowl. It is atarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil’s Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom—at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Koumaare MV L772.

    By the time the ordnance mark on the summit is in sigtit, the path becomes less difficult, for we tread on a peaty soil. At the mound we are 2,756 feet above the sea, and a glorious panorama rewards our exertions. Away to the east, the Boggerah Mountains and the Paps loom cloud-like and blue ; far on the north, the river Shannon is just discernible, and nearer rise the Slieve Miskish Mountains; on the west we view the rocky ranges of Iveragh, Dingle Bay and the Kenmare Fiord ; southward we see the distant Caha Mountains that shadow Glengariff and rise over Bantry Bay. But nearer there are greater charms of scenery, for the three lakes lie at our feet, and we overlook their fairy islands. The town seems but a stone’s-throw away, and we can trace the roads that converge to it for many a mile into the country. Like silver threads, we see the streams and rivers running amongst verdant meadows, with the gem-like sheen of the arbutus bowers that gird the glancing lakes; higher, is a darker zone of tasselled pines. The Macgillycuddy Reeks stand out in all their magnificence, Carran Tual like a monarch proudly overtopping all. Nearer yet, the Purple Mountain and the Tomies rear their peaks ; and closer still are the Drooping Mountain and Tore. .

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 39

29. Kenmare lace at the Convent of Poor Clares

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1886–1893

    The Convent of Poor Clares in Kenmare is the most important feature of the town, where nuns train young pupils in the art of Kenmare lace, some valued at its weight in gold. The lace won first place at the South Kensington competition of 1886 and at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. The convent is a handsome building surrounded by shrubberies and flower-beds, adorned with marble statues.

    Read the passage

    To-day, Kenmare consists of a main street, leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. There is a good pier a little to the west of the town ; and the bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of the kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice, with a lofty spire, and is handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, the most important feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent,*can be seen and bought at the hotels, but no one will regret visiting the institution itself. It is wonderful to see how the devoted nuns succeed in training their young pupils, Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy and

    148 KENMARE TO KILLARNEY BY RAIL

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Kenmare, the Convent of Poor Clares stands as what the guide calls the most important feature of the place. The nuns there train young pupils in the famous Kenmare lace, work so fine it was said to be valued at its weight in gold. The lace took first place at the South Kensington competition in 1886 and was exhibited at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. The guide says specimens can be seen and bought at the hotels, but advises visiting the convent itself. It is wonderful, the writer notes, to see how the devoted nuns succeed in training their young pupils. The convent sits beside the Catholic Church, a spacious edifice with a lofty spire, handsomely decorated thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of its kind in Ireland, forming a striking object in the landscape.

30. Kinsale: Spanish-origin houses and the old fort

    Kinsale · town · Cork · 1690

    Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill at the mouth of the river Bandon, with many houses of apparent Spanish origin rising tier above tier on excavated rock sites. The ruins of an old fort, once deemed impregnable until captured by Marlborough in 1690, overlook the town.

    Read the passage

    Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon. It has a quaint appearance, its houses, many of which are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some being perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river; and the ruins of the old fort, which was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, add piquancy to the outlook. There is a charming public walk, shaded by trees, around Compass Hill, which commands a series of good views of the harbour, the villages of Seilly and Summercove (the favourite quarters of summer visitors), and the entire neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church, dedicated to, and said to have been built by, a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions’ than the lower portion, terminating in a broach spire.

    Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a “‘ sovereign ’’ and other officials. It has an interest- _ ing history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the ’ place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the “‘ native Irish,’’ from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the Englsh crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 67

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into Kinsale, on the slope of Compass Hill at the mouth of the river Bandon. The houses have a strange look about them. Many are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier above tier on sites cut out of the solid rock, some perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river. The ruins of the old fort stand over the town. That fort was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690. There is a public walk shaded by trees around Compass Hill, commanding views of the harbour, the villages of Seilly and Summercove, and the whole neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church, dedicated to and said to have been built by a female saint, St. Multose, in the fourteenth century. It is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage smaller than the lower, ending in a broach spire. Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a sovereign and other officials. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods. It took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the native Irish, from the time Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to begin the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast. It has long since given way to Queenstown, but its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots.

31. Ogham cave at the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry · 1838

    A circular cave of uncemented stones brought to light in 1838 near the Gap of Dunloe. Ogham inscriptions on the larger roof stones suggested it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture.

    Read the passage

    Saul turn aside to examine a Cave, brought to light in 1838. Of circular shape, it was constructed of uncemented stones inclining inwards ; and on the larger stones of the roof were Ogham inscriptions, which tended to show that it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture.

    “uyqnd|

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 45

32. James II lands at Kinsale, 1689

    Kinsale · town · Cork · 1689

    James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to begin the campaign that ended disastrously for him at the Boyne. Kinsale had a long history of capture and recapture between Spaniards, Saxons, and native Irish from Strongbow's time onward.

    Read the passage

    Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a “‘ sovereign ’’ and other officials. It has an interest- _ ing history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the ’ place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the “‘ native Irish,’’ from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the Englsh crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected

    by The Old Head of Kinsale,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 67

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Kinsale, the town on this coast of Cork. It has a long and troubled history. The Spaniards captured and held it more than once, for longer or shorter periods. From the time Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown, it stood in all the struggles between the Saxons and the native Irish. It was governed under a charter of Edward the Third by a sovereign and other officials. In 1689 James the Second landed here to begin the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. Later it fell to Marlborough, and with that capture the hopes of the last of the Stuarts were extinguished. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast. It has since given way to Queenstown, but its harbour is capacious and well sheltered. It remains the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by the Old Head of Kinsale.

33. Owen MacCarthy's outlaw den at Filadown

    near Glenflesk · population centre · Kerry

    Filadown, the most picturesque part of Glenflesk, was long the hideout of celebrated outlaw Owen MacCarthy. His den, called the Labig Owen, is a small cavern halfway up the Demon's Cliff, overlooking the wooded valley through which the Flesk river cascades.

    Read the passage

    should be visited by every tourist ; it lies to the south-east of the town. The most beautiful spots may easily be reached from the railway station at Headford, eight miles from Killarney ; but it is best to drive through the glen on an outside car, as in that way its features can be seen at leisure. The glen is a richly-wooded valley through which the Flesk carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen, and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of cascades over the barriers which obstruct its path. Filadown, the most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated outlaw, Owen MacCarthy; his den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon’s Cliff. Near the upper entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O’ Donoghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the old church. The Druids’ Cireles at Lissivigeen should be inspected ; and we can also visit Flesk Castle, which stands on a picturesque, wooded knoll round the base of which the river sweeps in eddying currents. An extensive panoramic view of the Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed from the castle terrace. The road home leads us past—

    Lough Guittane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 49

34. Mutiny on the Temeraire in Bantry Bay

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

    The crew of the old battleship Temeraire mutinied in Bantry Bay. Admiral Eyles seized twenty ringleaders, thirteen of whom were subsequently hung at Spithead.

    Read the passage

    It was here that the crew of the Temeyraire (the old battleship of Turner’s famous painting) mutinied; but the firmness of Admiral Eyles probably saved his own life and the lives of his officers. He had twenty of the ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen of them were hung from the yard-arm.

    Whiddy Island,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 64

35. Clough-na-Cuddy druids' altar in the Deer Park

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    In the Deer Park of Kenmare Demesne stands a Druids' altar called by the natives Clough-na-Cuddy ('Cuddy's stone'). Local guides claim the great chief of the Reeks cast it all the way here from Carran Tual, associating the monument with a legendary feat of strength.

    Read the passage

    object from all parts of Lough Leane. The demesne has recently been considerably enlarged by the addition of the West Park, extending for a considerable distance along the northern shore of the lake. There are, in all parts of the grounds, exquisite walks, with occasional flower-beds and groves of rare shrubs and forest-trees, so disposed as to give now and again choice prospects of the glancing lake and towering mountains. The Deer Park should not be forgotten by the visitor. Here all is wild and natural, and ferns and flowers abound in its dells and glens. Here is a Druids’ altar, called by the natives Clough-na-Cuddy (‘‘ Cuddy’s stone ’’), after, perhaps, the great chief of the Reeks, who the guide will assure you cast it all the way here from Carran Tual.

    Keeping to the left, the visitor reaches a gate leading to Ross Castle. From the battlement and windows a comprehensive view of the picturesque domain we have just. left may be obtained, the mansion appearing to very great advantage. ;

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 49

36. Cromwell's Fort on Valentia Island

    Cromwell's Fort · man-made feature · Kerry

    The lighthouse on Valentia Island stands at Cromwell's Fort, so named because Oliver Cromwell erected forts at each end of the island to safeguard the coast and prevent hostile privateers from using the harbour.

    Read the passage

    The visitor should not leave without inspecting the lighthouse and the monument to the memory of the late Knight of Kerry, both of them built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell’s Fort, as the headland is named, a reminiscence of the fact that Noll erected forts at each end of the island, as well to safeguard the coast as to prevent the captains of hostile privateers from using the

    136 VALENTIA ISEAN®T

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 54

37. Grand Parade's transformation from dock to promenade

    Cork · city · Cork · 1780

    The Grand Parade, Cork's widest street, stands on what was once a large dock arched over in 1780. The western side was known as Tuckey's Quay and the eastern as the Mall, connected by a bridge bearing an equestrian statue of George II, colloquially called 'George-a-cock-horse.'

    Read the passage

    A few yards further we turn left into the Grand Parade, the widest street in Cork. It stands on what was once a large dock, arched over in 1780. Up to that time the western side was known as Tuckey’s Quay, and the eastern as the Mall—the latter then a pleasant promenade, shaded with trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge on which stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, colloquially known as ‘“ George-a-cock-horse.”” The Grand Parade is notable for an immense circular fountain which stands in the middle of the roadway. There is an inscription round it relating to one Berwick, but we are not aware that any one has ever been known to make the extensive circuit for the sake of reading it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable Markets are on the Parade.

    “HOUNHO IVIYOWNAW MAHLVW

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, the Grand Parade is the widest street in the city. It stands on what was once a large dock, arched over in 1780. Before that, the western side was known as Tuckey's Quay, and the eastern side was the Mall, a pleasant promenade shaded with trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge, and on that bridge stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, known to people as George-a-cock-horse. The Grand Parade is notable for an immense circular fountain standing in the middle of the roadway. There is an inscription round it relating to one Berwick, though nobody seems to make the circuit to read it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable markets are on the Parade.

38. Muckross Abbey: burial place of O'Sullivans More and O'Donoghue

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    Muckross Abbey served as the place of sepulture of the O'Sullivans More, once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry, as well as the O'Donoghue. Their graves and those of other leaders lie unnoticed in the rank vegetation carpeting the abbey grounds.

    Read the passage

    This was also the place of sepulture of the O’Sullivans More, once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry, whose graves, and those of many other stalwart leaders, lie unnoticed in the rank vegetation that carpets Muckross.

    The Abbey is not without some stately modern monuments ; yet their beauty appears out of place amidst such mouldering desolation. The graves of the peasantry lie in many a grassy heap on the south side, and some of the cut stones have been taken from its walls to mark them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 37

39. Whiddy Island's church ruins and O'Sullivan Bere castle

    near Whiddy Island · island or archipelago · Cork · 1422–1461

    Whiddy Island, formerly Lord Bantry's deer-park, contains relics of an old church with a cemetery. On the eastern point of the island are the ruins of a castle built during the reign of Henry VI by O'Sullivan Bere.

    Read the passage

    formerly Lord Bantry’s deer-park, comprises an area of about 1,218 acres, and is remarkable for the diversified quality of its soil. A black shaly substance, soft and unctuous, resembling black-lead, found on the northern side, was at one time highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed medicinal qualities. There are some relics of an old church, with a cemetery attached ; and on the eastern point of the island are the ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O’Sullivan Bere. Though apparently so near, it is almost a mile and three-quarters from Bantry. ‘ At Bantry, we are at the end of—

    The Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 64

40. Cork's marshy origins and island bridges

    Cork · city · Cork

    Cork's streets are described as irregularly formed because they were originally built on the banks of streams separating islands. Macaulay is quoted describing the city as once a desolate marsh where sportsmen sank in water and mire.

    Read the passage

    The streets are spacious, but of irregular formation—a state of things attributable to their having been originally erected on the banks of the streams which separated the islands (now united), the opposite sides of which were connected by bridges. As Macaulay puts it: ‘‘ The city extended over about onetenth part of the space which it now covers, and was intersected by muddy streams, which have long been concealed by arches and buildings. A desolate marsh, in which the sportsman who pursued the waterfowl sank deep in water and mire at every step, covered the area now occupied by stately buildings, the palaces of great commercial societies.”’ As a reference to our plan will show, the central portion of the city is connected with those parts on the banks of the Lee by numerous bridges, the chief of which are St. Patrick’s and the Parnell Bridges. The latter, formerly known as the Anglesea Bridge, was rebuilt in 1882, and re-named, as we have said, in honour of the then senior member for the city. St. Patrick’s Bridge is remarkable as being broader than any bridge which spans the Thames except Westminster, the new structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London Bridge; it is over 60 feet within the parapets. The bridge dates from 1859, and occupies the site of an older structure erected in 1798, and destroyed by flood in 1853. These two bridges are indirectly connected by three of the widest and best streets in Cork—St. Patrick’s Street, the Grand Parade, and the South Mall; and directly by the Merchants’ Quay, on the south bank of the North River, and Warren’s Place, which rivals in width and regularity the three streets already mentioned.

    The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for many years the only means of communication with the surrounding country. The bridges are connected by North and

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Cork, the streets open out spacious but uneven, their shapes still carrying the mark of how the city began. The ground here was once islands, separated by streams, and the streets were built along the banks of those streams. The islands are united now, and the opposite sides were connected by bridges. Macaulay described what this place was. He said the city once extended over about one tenth part of the space it now covers, and was intersected by muddy streams, long since concealed by arches and buildings. He called it a desolate marsh, where the sportsman who pursued the waterfowl

41. Raleigh and Miss Curran at Tivoli

    Tivoli · population centre · Cork

    Sir Walter Raleigh lived at Tivoli for a time, and trees he planted are said to still exist. Miss Curran, the betrothed of Robert Emmett, resided at Woodhill; her romantic story inspired Thomas Moore's lyric about her separation from her young hero.

    Read the passage

    Across the water are the suburbs of Montenotte and Tivoli. An eastern traveller has observed of the latter: “A few minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realise the Bosphorus.” Raleigh lived at Tivoli for a time, and it is said that trees planted by him still exist. Miss Curran, the betrothed of poor Robert Emmett, resided at a house known as Woodhill. Her romantic story inspired Moore’s musical lyric, ‘‘ She is far from the land where her young hero sleeps.” Further eastward, on the north bank, the pretty Glanmire stream joins the Lee, beneath a drawbridge of cast iron.

    The walk along the Marina and the south bank of the river may be continued as far as Blackrock Castle (see p. 46) and the beautiful expanse of Lough Mahon.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead the road passes through Tivoli. An eastern traveller once said of it that a few minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realise the Bosphorus. Sir Walter Raleigh lived here for a time, and trees he planted are said to still exist. Miss Curran, the betrothed of poor Robert Emmett, lived at a house called Woodhill. Her story gave Thomas Moore the words: "She is far from the land where her young hero sleeps."

42. The great holly of Innisfallen, largest in Europe

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

    Innisfallen's groves are so luxuriant as to be almost impenetrable, with ivy, holly, laurel, and evergreen oaks. The great holly tree, which guides show visitors, is thought to be the largest in Europe. Another curiosity is four trees—ash, holly, hawthorn, and ivy—united as if growing from one stem.

    Read the passage

    other islands and on the mainland, is not to be found. But one hardly misses it, for ivy, holly, laurel and evergreen oaks abound. The holly tree is extraordinarily abundant, and its bright corals and the scarlet clusters of the mountain ash are fresh and delicate as the arbutus berry. The great holly, which the guide must find for the visitor, is thought to be the largest in Europe. Another curiosity which will tempt the tourist to explore the mazes of this leafy island is a tree, or rather a combination of four trees, united so closely as to appear growing from the same stem; they are ash, holly, hawthorn and ivy. ;

    The island lies about half a mile from the shore, between Ross and Rabbit Islands; it is next in size to the former, and contains about twenty-one acres. In this small space groves of evergreens and forest-trees are disposed with such exquisite taste that walks in many directions lead through thickets of the densest foliage, by trees of enormous girth, over lawns and dells and hills; and often the view opens through a vestibule of arching trees, through which the mountains loom witha dreamy, indescribable outline. When approaching the island in a boat the density of the underwood is such that it looks as if it were growing out of the lake.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 43

43. Dr. Maginn, Fraser's Magazine founder, born Cork 1793

    Cork · city · Cork · 1793

    Dr. Maginn, born at Cork in 1793, was primarily responsible for the establishment of Fraser's Magazine. He contributed text to the famous Gallery of Literary Characters, with illustrations by Maclise, also a Cork native.

    Read the passage

    Another journalist of distinction in his day was Dr. Maginn, who was born at Cork in 1793. He was primarily responsible for the establishment of Fraser's Magazine, at one time a journal of great repute and circulation, but which would probably have been forgotten by now but for Thackeray’s connection with it. Maginn also contributed to Blackwood, but his intemperate habits prevented the success his extraordinary talents would otherwise have commanded. The text to the famous Gallery of Literary Characters was contributed by Maginn, and the illustrations were drawn by Maclise, also a native of Cork. Maclise’s mother is said to have been pew-opener for twenty-two years in the then Presbyterian Church. The young artist first attracted notice by a “snap-shot ”’ sketch of Sir Walter Scott, as the great novelist bent over a bookstall while on a visit to Cork. Barry, the painter, was born at Passage, near Cork, and J. Hogan, the sculptor, some of whose best work is to be seen in St. Joseph’s Cemetery, was a native of Cork itself.

    William Black’s novel, Shandon Bells, deals largely with Cork and Glengariff, and may be recommended to the holidaymaker as light reading for leisure moments. J. A. Froude’s only novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy, is interesting for the same reason.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, this is the city where Dr. Maginn was born in 1793. He was primarily responsible for the establishment of Fraser's Magazine, at one time a journal of great repute and circulation, though it would probably have been forgotten by now but for Thackeray's connection with it. Maginn also contributed to Blackwood, but his intemperate habits prevented the success his extraordinary talents would otherwise have commanded. He wrote the text for the famous Gallery of Literary Characters, and the illustrations were drawn by Maclise, also a native of Cork. Maclise's mother is said to have been pew-opener for 22 years in the then Presbyterian Church. The young artist first attracted notice by a snap-shot sketch of Sir Walter Scott, as the great novelist bent over a bookstall while on a visit to Cork. Barry, the painter, was born at Passage, near Cork. J. Hogan, the sculptor, some of whose best work is to be seen in St. Joseph's Cemetery, was a native of Cork itself. William Black's novel Shandon Bells deals largely with Cork and Glengariff, and J. A. Froude's only novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy, is interesting for the same reason.

44. Etymology and early ownership of Bantry

    Bantry · town · Cork

    Bantry's name is traditionally derived from "Ban-tra," meaning "white strand." However, Dr. Joyce suggests it comes from Beann, son of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster, who was an ancient owner of this district.

    Read the passage

    Bantry is said to derive its name from Ban-tra, the “ white strand.” The strand is indisputable, though the construction of the pier. and sea-wall has improved a great part of it out of existence, but we do not see where the whiteness comes in. Probably Dr. Joyce is more correct in deriving the name from Beann (Ban), one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century, and ancient owner of this district. Most people simply go through Bantry without making a stay, but one or two days can be profitably spent in the little market town. There is a good bathing-stage, and the bay affords every facility for yachting and boating. The town stands near the head of the spacious bay of the same name.

    The visitor should, if time allows, call at the Bantry Woollen Mills. Here he will find an interesting example of an industry . which was once a leading one in Ireland, and which, from the strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same position again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability which are gaining such an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill, to which access can readily be had, is only a few yards from Vickery’s Hotel; and the wool, which is grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the beautiful view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks—Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 63

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry, the name is said to come from Ban-tra, meaning white strand. The strand is there, though the pier and sea-wall have improved a good part of it out of existence, and the whiteness is not obvious. Probably Dr. Joyce is more correct in deriving the name from Beann, called Ban, one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century, and ancient owner of this district. Most people simply go through Bantry without making a stay, but one or two days can be profitably spent in the little market town. There is a good bathing-stage, and the bay affords every facility for yachting and boating. The town stands near the head of the spacious bay of the same name. If time allows, the Bantry Woollen Mills are worth a call. They show an industry that was once a leading one in Ireland, and that, from the strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same position again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability gaining an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill is only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel, and the wool, grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks: Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

45. Rosscarbery abbey founded by St. Faughnan

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 1612

    Rosscarbery was once the site of a famous university and acquired celebrity from St. Faughnan, who founded an abbey there. The abbey church became a cathedral, with St. Faughnan as first bishop; in 1612 the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site and the old abbey allowed to decay.

    Read the passage

    Rossearbery Bay indents the coast somewhat deeply to the west of Galley Head. Hanmer tells us that the town was once the site of “‘a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning’s sake.’”’ The place acquired great celebrity from the sanctity of St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh, in county Waterford, who, removing to Rosscarbery, founded an abbey here. The church of this abbey was in due time made into the cathedral of a new see, of which the saint became the first bishop. In 1612, the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey and its church were allowed to decay. Its ruins are now to the south of the cathedral, a carved head in the south wall being

    COURTMACSHERRY—BANDON 169

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ross Carbery, you're in a town that was once the site of a famous university, where, as Hanmer wrote, all the south-west of Ireland resorted for learning's sake. It drew its fame from St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh in county Waterford, who came here and founded an abbey. The abbey church became the cathedral of a new see, and the saint himself was its first bishop. In 1612 the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey was left to decay. Its ruins still stand south of the cathedral, with a carved head in the south wall.

46. St. Patrick's Street built over a former river branch

    Cork · city · Cork

    St. Patrick's Street, the principal shopping thoroughfare of Cork, is semicircular because it is built on arches over what was once a deep and important branch of the river where ships were laden and unladen.

    Read the passage

    the: “Regent Street’ of Corkea thoroughfare lined with handsome shops and hotels, but sadly lacking in uniformity. The seeker for souvenirs and suitable presents for the home folk is not likely to find a better place for shopping in the south of Ireland. The semicircular shape of the street is accounted for by the fact that it is built on arches over what was once a deep and important branch of the river, in which ships were laden and unladen. In the bend one notices on the left the Victoria Hotel.

    ‘Winthrop Street leads from St. Patrick’s Street to George’s Street, where stands the Chief Post Office, a handsome stonefronted building, recently erected at a cost of £40,000. Lower down are the Imperial Hotel and Commercial Buildings.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

47. The Franciscan ruins and history of Muckross Abbey

    Muckross Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Kerry · 1192–1340

    Muckross Abbey sits on the site of the old Church of Irrelagh, which was burned around 1192. The present Franciscan friary ruins were founded in 1340 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond, and feature a well-preserved cloister square.

    Read the passage

    which occupies the site of the old-world Church of Irrelagh (a name meaning ‘“‘the building on the lough’’), burned somewhere about 1192. The present ruins, however, are old enough in all conscience, the Abbey, which was inhabited by Franciscan friars, having been founded in 1340 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. There are the remains of the church, 100 feet long, consisting of choir, nave and transept. The breadth of the choir is about 25 feet, and the transept is 35 feet in length. In the centre is a strong square tower. The transept is united to the nave by a lofty arch; on the opposite side a narrow doorway leads to the cloisters, the best preserved and most interesting part of the structure. The buildings form a square of 36 feet, 86

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 36

48. The Gap of Dunloe — Wild Mountain Gorge

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    The Gap of Dunloe is a wild gorge separating the Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, running south for about four miles with perpendicular rocks at its gates. Holly and Bull Mountains form spurs on either side, and the valley contains the inky Cummeen Thomeen Lakes.

    Read the passage

    The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks, and running almost due south for about four miles. The gates of this romantic valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarcely give room for the road. The hills on either side are spurs of the great mountains, called respectively the Holly and Bull Mountains. A small stream traverses the valley, expanding in places into gloomy lakes, called the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes, remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters. The farthest of them, Black Lough, exceeds the others in this respect and in coldness. » While the other lakelets abound in fish, this has none; and Paddy assures us that this is due to the fact that the: lake is the identical spot where St. Patrick drowned the last serpent.

    Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side in wild confusion, apparently ready to topple over and crush the visitor. The narrow torrent is twice crossed by the road, the brawling waters intensifying the desolate but sublime character of the scene. As we advance, the outline of the mountains changes. Huge boulders appear above the path, and shattered fragments of rock strew the steep mountain slopes. The Purple Mountain, with all its chromatic beauties; the Tomies, with its glowing lights and intense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their aspiring summits ; then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold, still, and silent as death, combine to make a picture which has no equal in Killarney. It is a scene of utter solitude and desolation—a picture of the valley of the shadow of death. In a distance of about two miles. after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road rises some 400 feet, the way being encumbered with rocks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 46

49. Cromwell's entry into Youghal and the Clock Gate

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1649

    Cromwell entered Youghal in 1649 by the Water Gate and made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. The town walls still stand on the western and northern sides.

    Read the passage

    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “great ”’ Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography: ‘‘ All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries, with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of {50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 25

50. Ross Island: artificial formation and castle ruins

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry

    Ross Island, part of the Kenmare estate, is about 150 acres and is believed to be of artificial formation, with a moat cut through a morass at a remote date to protect a castle whose ruins remain prominent. The shore is worn into every variety of creek, promontory, and bay.

    Read the passage

    which is part of the Kenmare estate, and is laid out with walks and carriage-drives in the same tasteful and picturesque manner as the rest of the demesne. The island is beyond doubt of artificial formation, a moat having been cut through a morass in the isthmus which connected it with the land at a remote date—in all probability, as a protection to the castle the ruins of which form a prominent feature of the island. Its area is about 150 statute acres, and it is about a mile in length. The shore is worn into every variety of creek, promontory and bay, with deeply indented fantastic and curious rocks. :

    Leaving Killarney by carriage, a short drive along the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 42

51. Buttevant and Spenser connection

    Buttevant · town · Cork

    Buttevant is a garrison town of some importance whose chief interest lies in its connection with the poet Spenser, who resided in the neighbourhood.

    Read the passage

    Leaving the junction, the main line turns due south, and next passes Buttevant, a garrison town of some importance. Its chief interest lies in its connection with Spenser, who resided in the neighbourhood. The ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where the poet acted as secretary to Lord Grey of Wilton, lord deputy of Ireland, are some four or five miles from Buttevant. It was here that the first three books of the Faérvie Queen were written.

    Leaving Buttevant and continuing our ‘southward course, we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important railway junction (vef. yoom), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the convenience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

52. Camden's 1600 description of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1600

    In 1600, William Camden described Cork as an oval, walled city environed and intersected by a river passable only by bridges. He noted it was a trading town of great resort but beset by rebellious neighbours.

    Read the passage

    In 1600,Camden describes the city as “of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one straight street, continued by a bridge; it is, however, a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.”’

    At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause; but on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at discretion.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Cork, this is a city William Camden described in 1600 as "of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, which is passable only by bridges." It had one straight street, continued by a bridge. Camden called it a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged. At war's outbreak between Charles I and Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause. But on Cromwell's approach in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at discretion.

53. Cork Court House and its Corinthian portico

    Cork · city · Cork · 1891

    The Cork Court House on Great George's Street features a Corinthian portico praised by Macaulay as worthy of Palladio, with 30-foot columns and a sculptural group of Law, Mercy and Justice. It was completely gutted by fire on Good Friday, 1891, explaining its apparent newness.

    Read the passage

    From the Parade, Great George’s Street leads to Western Road and the terminus of the Light Railway to Blarney and Coachford. The tourist would do well to proceed in this direction at least as far as the Court House, the Corinthian portico of which, according to Macaulay, ‘‘ would do honour to Palladio.’”’ The columns are 30 feet high, and rest on a platform 6} feet above the level of the street, approached by a flight of eleven steps. On the apex of the pediment is a group of figures representing Law and Mercy supporting Justice. The interior contains two courts and other apartments. The central hall, with its lofty dome, is very imposing. The apparent newness of the Court House is accounted for by the fact that it was completely gutted by a fire which broke out on Good Friday, 1891.

    At the end of the Grand Parade we reach the South Channel. The premises of the Cork City Club prevent a turning rightward, and we therefore turn into the South Mall, another broad thoroughfare, in which stand most of the banks and the offices of the principal professional men. On Charlotte Quay stands the—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, Great George's Street leads from the Parade toward Western Road and the terminus of the Light Railway to Blarney and Coachford. Along that direction stands the Court House. Its Corinthian portico drew praise from Macaulay, who said it "would do honour to Palladio." The columns are 30 feet high, resting on a platform 6 and a half feet above the level of the street, reached by a flight of eleven steps. On the apex of the pediment is a sculptural group of figures representing Law and Mercy supporting Justice. The interior contains two courts and other apartments, and the central hall, with its lofty dome, is very imposing. The apparent newness of the building is accounted for by the fact that it was completely gutted by a fire which broke out on Good Friday, 1891. At the end of the Grand Parade comes the South Channel. The Cork City Club blocks a right turn there, so the road leads into South Mall, another broad thoroughfare, where most of the banks stand and the offices of the principal professional men.

54. Daniel Maclise's Cork origins and Scott sketch

    Cork · city · Cork

    Daniel Maclise, a native of Cork, drew the illustrations for the Gallery of Literary Characters. His mother was said to have been pew-opener for twenty-two years in the then Presbyterian Church. He first attracted notice with a sketch of Sir Walter Scott at a Cork bookstall.

    Read the passage

    Another journalist of distinction in his day was Dr. Maginn, who was born at Cork in 1793. He was primarily responsible for the establishment of Fraser's Magazine, at one time a journal of great repute and circulation, but which would probably have been forgotten by now but for Thackeray’s connection with it. Maginn also contributed to Blackwood, but his intemperate habits prevented the success his extraordinary talents would otherwise have commanded. The text to the famous Gallery of Literary Characters was contributed by Maginn, and the illustrations were drawn by Maclise, also a native of Cork. Maclise’s mother is said to have been pew-opener for twenty-two years in the then Presbyterian Church. The young artist first attracted notice by a “snap-shot ”’ sketch of Sir Walter Scott, as the great novelist bent over a bookstall while on a visit to Cork. Barry, the painter, was born at Passage, near Cork, and J. Hogan, the sculptor, some of whose best work is to be seen in St. Joseph’s Cemetery, was a native of Cork itself.

    William Black’s novel, Shandon Bells, deals largely with Cork and Glengariff, and may be recommended to the holidaymaker as light reading for leisure moments. J. A. Froude’s only novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy, is interesting for the same reason.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you're in the city that gave Daniel Maclise to art. He was a native of this place, and he made his name young. The text to the famous Gallery of Literary Characters was written by Dr. Maginn, another Cork man, born here in 1793, who was primarily responsible for the establishment of Fraser's Magazine. But it was Maclise who drew the illustrations, and his start came from a moment on these streets. Sir Walter Scott visited Cork, and as the great novelist bent over a bookstall, the young Maclise took what the source calls a "snap-shot" sketch. That drawing first attracted notice to the artist. His mother is said to have been pew-opener for twenty-two years in the then Presbyterian Church here in Cork. The city also claims Barry the painter, born at Passage near Cork, and J. Hogan the sculptor, a native of Cork itself, whose best work is seen in St. Joseph's Cemetery. William Black's novel Shandon Bells and J. A. Froude's only novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy, both deal with Cork and Glengariff.

55. Lough Leane and the Long Range praised by Sir Walter Scott

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The three lakes of Killarney, including Lough Leane, are connected by the Long Range and discharge surplus water into Castlemaine Harbour via the River Laune. Sir Walter Scott famously admitted the Long Range was finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district.

    Read the passage

    The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery surrounding the famous lakes, which are three in number, known respectively as the Upper ; the Middle, or Tore; and the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane. The lakes are connected by a tortuous stream, called the Long Range, which winds in and out in the most pleasant manner, The lakes are fed by a number of mountain’streams, their surplus water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour, on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was admitted by Sir Walter Scott to be finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature; and after exploring the lakes as recommended in the following pages, we believe most tourists will agree with Thackeray when he pronounces them “ too handsome.”

    If the visitor is pressed for time and does not fear fatigue, he may, by “‘ galloping over the lakes in one day,” get a glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so, he may proceed by Aghadoe ; visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran Tual, descending by the Black Valley ; and return by boat through the lakes. Or he may proceed back through the Gap of Dunloe, and home by Lord Brandon’s Cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagles’ Nest, Torc and Muckross. Another one day excursion is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O’Sullivan’s Cascade, Innisfallen and Ross.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 36

56. Midleton: Curran's education and Raleigh's ford defence

    Midleton · town · Cork

    Midleton is a military centre with an extensive whisky distillery and flour mills. The famous orator Curran was educated at the college here. Near the distillery is the ford where Raleigh defended single-handed against Fitzgerald and his 'wild Irish rebels' until his troops arrived.

    Read the passage

    There is not much of interest in the journey from Cork to Youghal, except near the commencement, when after passing the riverside suburbs of Tivoli and Dunkettle, we skirt the northern shore of Lough Mahon (see p. 46), and have some pretty peeps down the harbour. At Queenstown Junction the main line trains proceed in a southerly direction to Queenstown, but we continue due eastward. Midleton (population 2,795), about half-way to Youghal, is a military centre, but derives its chief importance from its extensive whisky distillery and flour mills. Curran, the famous orator and statesman, was educated at the College here. Close to the distillery is the ford which Raleigh defended singlehanded against Fitzgerald and his ‘‘ wild Irish rebels ’’ till his own troops came up. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth, ch. xv. Midleton confers the title of viscount in the peerage of Ireland upon the Brodrick family.

    62 YOUGHAL Youghal.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 25

57. Mulgrave Police Barracks: farewell to the Killarney lakes

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    At Mulgrave Police Barracks, the tourist bids farewell to the Killarney lakes, with a deep and wondrous valley revealing all three lakes lying like sheets of silver looking back towards Killarney. The passage includes an extended lyrical description by Justin H. McCarthy of Killarney's beauty in storm and sunshine.

    Read the passage

    ton tower above us. We presently reach the tunnel shown in our illustration on p. 91. At Mulgrave Police Barracks the tourist bids farewell to the lakes. ‘‘ No description,” it has been well said, ‘‘can convey any adequate idea of the loveliness of the scene which presents itself from this spot ; looking back towards Killarney the eye beholds a deep and wondrous valley, in the bosom of which the whole of the three lakes lie like sheets of silver. Mr. Justin H. McCarthy thus eloquently described his impressions of Killarney, evidently with this scene in his mind :—

    - “*T know of lovely lakes elsewhere ; I know of none more lovely than Killarney. I am not sure that I can say that I know of any quite as lovely, with the peculiar, haunting loveliness of the Irish lakes. The spirits of the mist seem to brood over those beautiful waters, softening with their caresses all forms and colours into the rarest, into the finest harmony, suffusing them with a liquid light that is at times almost unearthly in its beauty. These wooded hills, where still—or is that a legend and a dream ?—the red deer lingers, those great sheets of water that change their mood and their aspect with every changing hour, and are always beautiful, steep the mind of the beholder in a sensuous delight that is hard to describe in words. To me the lakes, like all beautiful scenes in nature, look their best in the splendour of a summer’s day, when the waters are very still, when the woods are hushed in the heat, when the spell of the golden sunlight is upon everything. Then Killarney is an earthly paradise, then the youth of the world seems to have returned. But on dark days when storm is threatening, or in those hours when the threatened storm breaks and the water blackens under the rain and races into great waves before the wind, then, too, Killarney is beautiful with a beauty that is wild but not terrible. Killarney’ s woods and waters may inspire awe when the thunder is rumbling among the hollows of the hills and the lightning is cutting slices out of the livid sky, but it never inspires terror. Its angers are the hot furies of a friend, not the forbidding wraths of an enemy. In storm or in sunshine, there is a charm about the place that is all its own, a charm that it would be worth while to travel thousands of miles to experience and to appreciate.”

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 58

58. Ogham stones at Parknasilla

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    The Bishop of Limerick collected stones bearing inscriptions in the Ogham character, long undeciphered, and these are now displayed in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly the bishop's own residence.

    Read the passage

    Archzology.—Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character—so long undeciphered—and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique - example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 1838-8.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Along here in Parknasilla, the grounds of the hotel hold Ogham stones collected by the Bishop of Limerick. The hotel was once his own residence. Ogham is a form of writing carved on stone, long undeciphered, found on standing stones and gallauns across Kerry and Cork. These antiquities date from pre-Christian times. The bishop gathered these inscribed stones and kept them at his home, where they remain on display.

59. Shandon Church and the 1688 cannon-ball

    near Shandon · locality · Cork · 1688

    The old church at Shandon was garrisoned by the English in 1688 and damaged by guns from a nearby Irish fort. A cannon-ball found embedded in the former steeple is displayed on a bracket in the south transept of the present building.

    Read the passage

    In 1688 the old church was garrisoned by the English, and the guns of the Irish fort close by did it considerable damage. In the south transept of the present building can be seen on a bracket a cannon-ball which was found embedded in the former steeple.

    Facing the west end of the cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace, a plain modern building, standing in extensive grounds.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Shandon now. In 1688 the old church here was garrisoned by the English, and guns from the Irish fort close by did it considerable damage. You can still see the evidence: in the south transept of the present building, a cannon-ball sits on a bracket, found embedded in the former steeple.

60. St Mary's Church, Youghal, and Desmond's college

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1464

    St Mary's Church occupies the site of a church that existed before the Norman invasion. It was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the 'great' Earl of Cork. The massive tower, 50 feet high, is known as Cromwell's.

    Read the passage

    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “great ”’ Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography: ‘‘ All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries, with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of {50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 25