A Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork

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1. Bray Head views

   near Bray Head · promontory · Kerry

   Bray Head, the most westerly point of Valentia Island, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea. From its crest one sees the Skelligs, Slea Head, the Great Blasket, and the Iveragh Mountains.

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   The shores are indented with bays and cliffs, and euarded by isolated rocks, against which the waves of the Atlantic surge with uncontrolled fury. Bray Head, the most westerly point, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea, and from its lofty crest we have a glorious view. Eight miles to the south, the Skelligs loom like pyramids above the boundless ocean,. and all the islands in sight have an extraordinary and abrupt outline—stern, yet picturesque. Northward we see Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains, the Great Blasket, an2 many lesser islands elevated over the surging waves ; some that look like batteries and castles, others that appear like Gothic houses. Inland, we behold the many-tinted inclines of the Iveragh Mountains, with their wild, serrated ridges ; and seaward, we gaze upon the mighty Atlantic, spreading into a vast horizon that seems a wall of water.

   The visitor should not leave without inspecting the lighthouse and the monument to the memory of the late Knight of Kerry, both of them built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell’s Fort, as the headland is named, a reminiscence of the fact that Noll erected forts at each end of the island, as well to safeguard the coast as to prevent the captains of hostile privateers from using the

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 54

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Bray Head, the most westerly point of Valentia Island, the cliffs rise steep and high, 792 feet above the sea. The shores here are cut with bays and cliffs, and guarded by isolated rocks, against which the waves of the Atlantic surge with what the old guide calls uncontrolled fury. From the crest of Bray Head, the view opens wide. Eight miles to the south, the Skelligs loom like pyramids above the open ocean, and all the islands in sight have a strange, abrupt outline. Northward, you can see Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains, the Great Blasket, and many smaller islands raised over the surging waves. Some look like batteries and castles, others like Gothic houses. Inland lie the many-tinted slopes of the Iveragh Mountains, with their wild, jagged ridges. Seaward, the Atlantic spreads into a vast horizon that seems a wall of water. The guide also says the visitor should not leave without seeing the lighthouse and the monument to the late Knight of Kerry, both built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell's Fort, as the headland is named, a reminder that Cromwell erected forts at each end of the island, to safeguard the coast and to stop the captains of hostile privateers from using it.

2. Father O'Mahony's hermitage at Gougane Barra

   near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork · 1700–1799

   In the early eighteenth century, the recluse Father O'Mahony retired to the island at Gougane Barra. His tomb, said to have been erected by himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland. Mass is celebrated in the open air at the site.

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   when Mass is celebrated in the open air. In the early part of the eighteenth century another recluse, Father O’Mahony, retired to the island, and _ his tomb, erected it is said by himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland.

   Returning to the main road, where the coach awaits us, we at once enter on the best part of the drive.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 70

   As the companion tells it

   Gougane Barra in Cork holds the story of Father O'Mahony. In the early part of the 1700s he retired to the island here as a recluse. His tomb stands on the adjoining mainland, erected, it is said, by himself. Mass is celebrated in the open air at the site.

3. Lansdowne Suspension Bridge at Kenmare

   Kenmare · townland · Kerry

   The Lansdowne Suspension Bridge crosses Kenmare Bay to the west of the town and is noted as the first structure of its kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape.

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   To-day, Kenmare consists of a main street, leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. There is a good pier a little to the west of the town ; and the bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of the kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice, with a lofty spire, and is handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, the most important feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent,*can be seen and bought at the hotels, but no one will regret visiting the institution itself. It is wonderful to see how the devoted nuns succeed in training their young pupils, Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy and

   148 KENMARE TO KILLARNEY BY RAIL

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 57

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, the bay at Kenmare is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge. It was the first structure of its kind in Ireland, and it forms a striking object in the landscape. Kenmare itself consists of a main street leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. There is a good pier a little to the west of the town. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice with a lofty spire, handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is the most important feature of the town. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels. It is wonderful to see how the devoted nuns succeed in training their young pupils. Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy of the work.

4. O'Donoghue's celebrated rocks on the Lower Lake

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   The Lower Lake is studded with some thirty islands and celebrated rocks named after O'Donoghue. O'Donoghue's Horse was blown down during a storm and lies buried in the waves, while O'Donoghue's Table, Prison, Pulpit, and Library still survive.

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   which is studded by some thirty islands of varying form and character, some luxuriant with foliage, others barren rocks scarcely large enough to be called islets. O’Donoghue’s Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down

   100 LOWER LAKE—ROSS ISLAND

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 42

   As the companion tells it

   Lough Leane is scattered with some thirty islands, some thick with foliage, others bare rocks hardly big enough to call islets. Among them are the celebrated rocks named for O'Donoghue. O'Donoghue's Horse was blown down in a storm and lies buried in the waves. O'Donoghue's Table, Prison, Pulpit, and Library still stand.

5. Rhinerew Castle: Templar preceptory founded by Raymond le Gros

   Rincrew · townland · Waterford

   Rhinerew Castle, conspicuous on the left bank of the river, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars. It was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow.

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   After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhinerew Castle, on the left, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond -le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Straneally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy

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   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 26

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Rincrew stands Rhinerew Castle, once a preceptory of the Knights Templars. It was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The river banks rise to a considerable height after a bridge with 5 spans, each 100 feet long. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle, and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight. Then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, giving a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river, extremely beautiful. Straneally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, its ivied ruins blending with the mossy stonework.

6. Torc Waterfall: Killarney's finest cascade

   near Torc Waterfall · waterfall · Kerry

   The Torc Waterfall descends from a rock some 60 feet in height, first in a broad unbroken sheet then dividing and leaping from rock to rock in tumultuous grandeur. It is considered the finest cascade in the country with the single exception of the upper waterfall at Glenariff in County Antrim.

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   rock some 60 feet in height. It is best seen, of course, immediately after showery weather. The first bound is in a broad, unbroken sheet; then.it divides and leaps from rock to rock in tumultuous grandeur, foaming and wreathing, boiling and surging, uniting and again dividing, until it finds its way through a dark, narrow gorge to the lake. A winding path leads to the top, from whence we look down on this chaos of waters. The water-worn, precipitous rocks we ascend are shadowed with the foliage of the arbutus, studded with velvet moss and sprayed with trembling ferns. From the summit of the rock the Middle and Lower Lakes are seen, with their guardian mountains and winding shores, their fairy islands resting like swans upon the water. Like many things of beauty, the Torc is capricious. Often the waters flow as a mere glistening streamlet among the dark rocks, but when Torc wreathes his head in clouds and thunderstorms prevail the sublimity of the cascade is revealed. Visitors to the Torc may be warned that drivers of cars are sometimes in so great a hurry that they do not encourage the tourist to continue to the top of the fall. In this case one of the finest sights in Ireland is missed, as the full beauty of the cascade cannot be seen from any other point. With the single exception of the upper waterfall. at Glenariff in County Antrim, the Yorc is the finest cascade in the country. _

   SE GLOIN Des D-Axy: :

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 38

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Torc Waterfall, a rock stands some 60 feet in height, and the water comes down it best after showery weather. The first bound falls in a broad, unbroken sheet. Then it divides and leaps from rock to rock in tumultuous grandeur, foaming and wreathing, boiling and surging, uniting and again dividing, until it finds its way through a dark, narrow gorge to the lake. A winding path leads to the top. The water-worn, precipitous rocks you ascend are shadowed with the foliage of the arbutus, studded with velvet moss and sprayed with trembling ferns. From the summit of the rock the Middle and Lower Lakes are seen, with their guardian mountains and winding shores, their fairy islands resting like swans upon the water. Like many things of beauty, the Torc is capricious. Often the waters flow as a mere glistening streamlet among the dark rocks. But when Torc wreathes his head in clouds and thunderstorms prevail, the sublimity of the cascade is revealed. Visitors may be warned that drivers of cars are sometimes in so great a hurry that they do not encourage the tourist to continue to the top of the fall. In that case one of the finest sights in Ireland is missed, as the full beauty of the cascade cannot be seen from any other point. With the single exception of the upper waterfall at Glenariff in County Antrim, the Torc is the finest cascade in the country.

7. Alternative mountain-view route near Glengariff

   Sugarloaf · hill or hills · Kerry

   A correspondent describes an alternative walking route from a Roman Catholic chapel between Kenmare and Glengariff, leading to a hilltop that offers the best panoramic view of the mountains of Kerry, with the Sugarloaf most prominent. The route is shorter than the coach road and passes through Glengariff village.

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   Note Contributed by Correspondent (we have not personally tested this divergence. Ep.).—Between Kenmare and Glengariff is the best mountain view in the south of Ireland, but as it lies apart from the coach-road it is apt to be overlooked. Seven and a half miles trom Kenmare the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. If time permits, the tourist would do well to dismount and take the road which leads to the left, following it until it comes, by rather a bad surface, to the very top of the hill which divides the Kenmare valley from the Glengariff valley. Excepting the last portion— about one hundred yards—the road is a gentle incline and is quite negotiable by easy walkers. From the top is the best view of the whole of the mountains of Kerry—the Sugarloaf being most prominent. They lie, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple, at one’s feet. Southward is beautiful Glengariff—the village being three miles of rather hard descent from the summit, the whole distance from the Chapel to Glengariff being about 4? miles. The walker will miss portions of the coach-road, especially that which includes the long tunnel, but he will be more than repaid by one of the best views of mountain, valley and sea which can be obtained anywhere. In actual distance, this road is somewhat shorter than the coach route (say 124+ miles against 18 miles).

   Glengariff.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 59

   As the companion tells it

   Up ahead, Sugarloaf stands over the road between Kenmare and Glengariff, the hill that divides the Kenmare valley from the Glengariff valley. A correspondent to a guidebook of the lakes of Killarney and the south-west called the view from its top the best mountain view in the south of Ireland, though he noted the authors had not tested the route themselves. Seven and a half miles from Kenmare, the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. The advice was to dismount and take the road to the left, following it up a gentle incline to the very top of the hill. Only the last hundred yards are rough. From the summit, the whole of the mountains of Kerry open out, with the Sugarloaf most prominent, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple at your feet. Southward lies beautiful Glengariff, the village three miles of hard descent from the summit. The full distance from the chapel to Glengariff is about four and a half miles, shorter than the coach route of eighteen miles. You miss the long tunnel on the coach road, but the correspondent said you would be more than repaid by one of the best views of mountain, valley and sea obtainable anywhere.

8. Dunamase Castle and Strongbow

   Park or Dunamase · townland · Laois

   The ruins of Dunamase Castle, once in the possession of Strongbow, crown the summit of a singularly-shaped rock known as Dun Mall or Dunamase near Maryborough. A bastion of the old Castle at Maryborough was erected to overawe the natives of the newly conquered neighbourhood.

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   range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase.

   At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line; and Ballybrophy station (vef. voom) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Tem- ~ plars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as ““ godless,’’ recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Park or Dunamase stand the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. The castle crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase. Maryborough stands on a small tributary of the Barrow, and when the town was built, a bastion of the old Castle was erected there to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood.

9. Glencar: a miniature Swiss valley in Kerry

   near Glencar · population centre · Kerry

   Glencar is compared to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale, with the hotel standing at the centre of a great circle seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains and seemingly cut off from the outer world.

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   “ Here,’ it has been well said, “‘ one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of varying height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which we entered. About two and a half hours’ stay is allowed here, and the cars take us to the boat at Blackstones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving, the visitor may walk by the river along the fisherman’s path, passing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves ot birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale—the same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere meets the eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station, some very fine cliffs and headlands are passed, extending all along the lake on the east side, and the scenery is very varied and beautiful as we approach the end of our journey.

   W. Lawrence,| [Dublin.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 52

   As the companion tells it

   Glencar in Kerry has been called a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, 7 or 8 miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of varying height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which one enters. A stay of about 2 and a half hours was allowed here, and the cars took visitors to the boat at Blackstones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving, a visitor could walk by the river along the fisherman's path, passing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves of birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, were said to rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale. The same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere met the eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station, very fine cliffs and headlands extended all along the lake on the east side, and the scenery was very varied and beautiful as the end of the journey approached.

10. Killaha Castle and O'Donoghue stronghold

    Killaha · townland · Kerry

    Near the upper entrance to Glenflesk stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O'Donoghues of the glens. The old church remains stand close by the castle on its commanding site.

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    should be visited by every tourist ; it lies to the south-east of the town. The most beautiful spots may easily be reached from the railway station at Headford, eight miles from Killarney ; but it is best to drive through the glen on an outside car, as in that way its features can be seen at leisure. The glen is a richly-wooded valley through which the Flesk carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen, and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of cascades over the barriers which obstruct its path. Filadown, the most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated outlaw, Owen MacCarthy; his den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon’s Cliff. Near the upper entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O’ Donoghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the old church. The Druids’ Cireles at Lissivigeen should be inspected ; and we can also visit Flesk Castle, which stands on a picturesque, wooded knoll round the base of which the river sweeps in eddying currents. An extensive panoramic view of the Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed from the castle terrace. The road home leads us past—

    Lough Guittane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Killaha, somewhere around here, stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, on a commanding site near the upper entrance to the glen. This was the stronghold of the O'Donoghues of the glens. The old church remains stand hard by the castle. The glen itself is a richly-wooded valley, and the Flesk carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side, and the little stream leaps in a series of cascades over the barriers that obstruct its path. The guidebook says the glen should be visited by every tourist, and it is best to drive through on an outside car, so its features can be seen at leisure. The most picturesque part of the glen, Filadown, was long the retreat of a celebrated outlaw, Owen MacCarthy. His den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon's Cliff. But the castle is what holds the eye here, raised on its commanding ground, the O'Donoghue stronghold above the wooded valley.

11. Queenstown renamed from Cove after Queen Victoria's visit

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork · 1849

    Queenstown was formerly known as Cove. Its present name arose from Queen Victoria's landing there during her visit to Ireland in 1849. The town is built in terraces on the hillside overlooking one of the world's great natural harbours.

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    Queenstown was formerly known as Cove, its present name arising from the fact that Queen Victoria landed here on her visit to Ireland in 1849. Apart from its importance as a port of call for the American liners, and as a great naval and military station, Queenstown is rapidly acquiring a reputation as a health resort, particularly for the winter. Says a reliable authority :— f

    “The climate is remarkably mild and equable, and, at the same time, fairly dry and tonic, and is especially suitable as a winter and’ spring residence for persons with delicate chests, to sufferers from chronic catarrhal throat affections, and to convalescents from acute diseases. It is particularly appropriate as a seaside resort to persons requiring a soothing and sedative atmosphere. From the position of Queenstown, winds from the colder points are very little felt, and it is completely protected from the north, north-east and north-west winds. The mean temperatures of the season are exactly similar to those at Torquay, and higher than those of Bournemouth, Hastings and Ventnor. As a winter health resort Queenstown possesses all the best natural and climatic advantages.”

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes through or near the town of Cobh in County Cork. Up to 1849 it was called Cove. That year Queen Victoria landed here on her visit to Ireland, and the town took her name and became Queenstown. It stands in terraces on the hillside, overlooking one of the world's great natural harbours. Beyond its old importance as a port of call for the American liners and as a great naval and military station, it was gaining a reputation as a health resort, especially for the winter. A reliable authority described its climate as remarkably mild and equable, and at the same time fairly dry and tonic, suited as a winter and spring residence for persons with delicate chests, for sufferers from chronic catarrhal throat affections, and for convalescents from acute diseases. The position sheltered it from the north, north-east and north-west winds. Its mean temperatures matched those at Torquay, and ran higher than Bournemouth, Hastings and Ventnor. As a winter health resort, the authority wrote, Queenstown possessed all the best natural and climatic advantages.

12. Temple-en-Bryn ruined church burial-ground

    Templebryan · parish · Cork

    The ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn, adjoining Monkstown Castle, contains the family vault where Anstatia Goold and her husband John Archdecken were eventually interred together.

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    found when the work was done that the house had only cost her a groat. Her husband returned in due course, and seems to have appraised his treasure of a wife at her proper value, though the chronicler tells us only that they were eventually interred together in their family vault, in the burial-ground of the ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn, adjoining the castle. Monkstown Church, an Early English, ivy-grown structure, standing on a picturesque elevation, is said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation.

    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for tine, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, vid Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    As the road passes through Templebryan, there stands a ruined church called Temple-en-Bryn, adjoining Monkstown Castle. The burial-ground holds a family vault, and in it lie Anstatia Goold and her husband John Archdecken, buried together at last. The story that comes down is a fragment. When the work was done, the house had only cost her a groat. Her husband returned in due course, and seems to have appraised his treasure of a wife at her proper value. The chronicler tells us only that, and no more of their lives. What survived is the ending: they were eventually interred together in their family vault, in the burial-ground of the ruined church, adjoining the castle. Monkstown Church stands as an Early English structure, ivy-grown, raised on a picturesque elevation. It is said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation. The railway until recently ended at Monkstown, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete. You can keep your seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, though, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the steamer heads westward round White's Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, with extensive works still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour.

13. Youghal charter and name origin

    Youghal · town · Cork

    Youghal received its first charter from King John. The town's name is said to derive from the Irish word for yew-wood, as the hills were formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified and large parts of its walls still stand.

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    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “great ”’ Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography: ‘‘ All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries, with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of {50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Youghal is a town the road passes through or near, in Cork. It received its first charter from King John, and its name is said to come from the Irish word for yew-wood, because the hills were once covered with yews. The town was strongly fortified, and much of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered Youghal in 1649 through the Water Gate and for a time made the town his headquarters. Where the ancient South Gate once stood, there is now a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street stands an ancient tower known as Tynte's Castle. Not far from it, a street leads to St. Mary's Church, which occupies the site of a church that existed before the Norman invasion. The 8th Earl of Desmond rebuilt it and founded a college in connection with it in 1464. Early in the 17th century, the great Earl of Cork restored it. The college, still standing in Nelson Street close to the church, was for a time the residence of William Congreve the dramatist, and his father, who was the earl's agent. The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet. The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, wrote in his autobiography: "All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries, with my rapier and dagger." Before his death, his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks.

14. Barrett castle at Ballincollig

    near Ballincollig · town · Cork

    The conspicuous square tower at Ballincollig is the ruin of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. The town's name means 'the town of the wild boar' and also contained barracks and gunpowder works.

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    Cemetery, and glimpses of other parts of the city, and have a run of nearly seven miles to Ballineolig (‘‘ the town of the wild boar’’), with its barracks and gunpowder works. The conspicuous square tower is part of the,ruin of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. Atkout two miles from Ballincollig, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish), there are some noted caves in the limestone rock. Shortly after leaving Killumney station, we have, on the right, the ruins of Kilerea Abbey, and on the left the Castle, built in 1465, by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry.

    A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore (‘‘ the great castle’’), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century. Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha (‘‘ the stone building of David’’), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney, we reach the terminus of the railway at—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 69

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Ballincollig, in Cork, you are passing a place whose name means "the town of the wild boar." The run here is nearly seven miles from the city. The town held barracks and gunpowder works, and the conspicuous square tower standing in ruin is what remains of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. The Barretts gave their name to the castle, and the tower is the part of the ruin still visible, a square shape rising from what was built in that reign. The town itself carried more than the castle over time, with its barracks and its gunpowder works alongside the ruin. The tower is described as conspicuous, meaning it can be seen clearly, a square structure marking where the Barretts built and where the ruin now stands.

15. Cork's city walls and 'Rebel Cork' reputation

    Cork · city · Cork

    Cork's city walls were destroyed after a period when it was one of the few fortified Irish cities alongside Limerick, Galway, and Athlone. The city maintained its reputation as 'Rebel Cork' well into the nineteenth century.

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    The walls were soon afterwards destroyed, and we hear little more of Cork as a military centre, though it maintained its reputation as ‘“‘ Rebel Cork ’’ until well into the nineteenth century. Mr. Parnell, it will be remembered, was member for Cork at the time of his death, and the city very properly showed its respect for his memory by calling the former Anglesea Bridge by his name. In 1902 was held the Cork International Exhibition, which attracted large numbers of visitors from all parts.

    Literary Associations.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Cork was once one of the few fortified cities in Ireland, but its walls were destroyed, and little more is heard of it as a military centre. The name "Rebel Cork" stuck well into the 1800s. Parnell was member for Cork when he died, and the city honoured him by renaming Anglesea Bridge after him. In 1902 the Cork International Exhibition drew visitors from all parts.

16. Dunmanway linen manufacture under Sir Richard Cox

    Dunmanway · town · Cork

    Dunmanway was formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland during the reign of Queen Anne.

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    Resuming the railway journey eastward from Bantry to Cork, at Drimoleague Junction, we reach Dunmanway, formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland in the reign of Queen Anne.

    We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    This is Dunmanway, in Cork. It was once the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, established by Sir Richard Cox. He served as Lord Chancellor of Ireland during the reign of Queen Anne. The industry was once large enough to define the town, though little of it remains now.

17. Dunmore Head: most westerly point in Ireland

    Dunmore Head · promontory · Kerry

    Dunmore Head is identified as the most westerly land in Ireland, nearer to America than any point of the European shores. It forms the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula and is surrounded by rocky isles.

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    with, on the opposite side, a background of lofty hills, termi nated in the far distance by the Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet). Dunmore Head, the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, is the most westerly land in Ireland—nearer America than any point of the European shores. It is surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which, the Great Blasket, presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. These features of the northern coast of the bay will attract attention successively as we make our way westward ; Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at _ other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney (R) 129

    130 CARAGH LAKE—GLENCAR

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Dunmore Head, you are at the most westerly land in Ireland. It is the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, nearer to America than any point of the European shores. A number of rocky isles surround it, the largest being the Great Blasket, which presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. Behind all this, Brandon Mountain rises to 3127 feet, much in evidence as you leave Killorglin and at other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney.

18. Hag's Teeth and Leprechaun folklore in the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    The Large and Small Hag's Teeth are fantastic precipices in a wilderness of rock along the Gaddagh River descent. Local guides tell visitors tales of the Hag herself, spirits, and Leprechauns said to dwell inside the rocks.

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    delightful round, which may be accomplished without much difficulty during a long summer day. But as we purpose sailing over the bosom of the lake on a future day, we adopt the course generally followed by tourists, and descend the mountain by the path by which we reached the summit. Then, following the course of the brawling Gaddagh River, we can examine the fantastic precipices known as the Large and the Small Hag’s Teeth; and in this wilderness of rock give our guide an opportunity of telling “‘ his honour ” about - the Hag herself, or the spirits, or the ‘‘ Leprechauns,” that, ‘“‘ beyond all manner of doubt,” live in the inside of the rocks.

    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churehtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit—perhaps the Bishop’s palace.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Gap of Dunloe, along the descent where the Gaddagh River runs, you come upon fantastic precipices known as the Large and the Small Hag's Teeth. They stand in a wilderness of rock, and it is here that guides earn part of their keep. They tell visitors about the Hag herself, or about spirits, or about the Leprechauns that, as the guides would have it, live inside the rocks. The guides say these things beyond all manner of doubt, and the visitors listen, and the rocks go on saying nothing. The river brawls past. The path follows it down to the foot of the mountain, and the guides are duly rewarded. From there the road leads home by Churchtown, past the castle of the O'Sullivan More at Dunloe, and on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore sits Lake View, once the residence of James O'Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then comes the Catholic Church near Aghadoe House. And on the left stand the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian's ancient shrine, and the Pulpit, which may once have been the Bishop's palace.

19. Macroom Castle and the Penn family

    Macroom · town · Cork

    Macroom Castle is said to have been built in the reign of King John and is the birthplace of Admiral Sir William Penn, father of the founder of Pennsylvania. The huge square keep is covered with beautiful variegated ivy.

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    Macroom Castle is said to have been built in the reign of King John, and is interesting as the birthplace of Admiral Sir William Penn, the father of the founder of Pennsylvania. The huge square keep is covered with beautiful variegated ivy.

    From Macroom a direct road runs north-west to Killarney (about 30 miles), vz7d Ballyvourney, following the course of the river Sullane, then over the Derrynasaggart Mountains to the Flesk Valley, striking the railway near Loo Bridge station on the Kenmare-Killarney branch line.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 69

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Macroom holds a castle said to have been built in the reign of King John. It is the birthplace of Admiral Sir William Penn, father of the founder of Pennsylvania. The huge square keep is covered with beautiful variegated ivy. From Macroom a road runs north-west toward Killarney, about 30 miles, by Ballyvourney, following the river Sullane, then over the Derrynasaggart Mountains to the Flesk Valley, striking the railway near Loo Bridge station on the Kenmare-Killarney branch line.

20. Mizen Head, Ptolemy's Notium Promontorium

    near Mizen Head · promontory · Cork

    Mizen Head, the extreme south-western point of Ireland, is identified as the Notium Promontorium of Ptolemy. The headland is 765 feet high and has an old signal tower at the top.

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    almost insulate Mizen Head (the Notiwm Promontorium of Ptolemy), the extreme south-western point of Ireland. The first view of this headland, 765 feet high, is peculiarly striking. At the top is an old signal tower. A little to the south, and separated from it by Barley Cove, is Brow Head. Three Castle Head, the extreme point of Dunmanus Bay, is so named from three old fortresses of the Mahony sept. The tiny town of Goleen is the nearest headquarters for the exploration of these crooked, sea-indented and almost unknown promontories.

    Resuming the railway journey eastward from Bantry to Cork, at Drimoleague Junction, we reach Dunmanway, formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland in the reign of Queen Anne.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Mizen Head, you're looking at the extreme south-western point of Ireland. The ancient geographer Ptolemy knew this headland as the Notium Promontorium. It rises 765 feet above the sea, and the first sight of it is, as one old guide puts it, "peculiarly striking." At the top stands an old signal tower. Just to the south, separated by Barley Cove, is Brow Head. The nearest little town for exploring these parts is Goleen. This whole stretch of coast is crooked and sea-indented, and was once described as almost unknown.

21. Timoleague Abbey, largest religious house in Cork

    Timoleague · town · Cork · 1372–1518

    Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua, whose name gives the place its meaning. It was the largest of many religious houses in county Cork; its remains include nave, choir, south transept, and a 68-foot square tower added by Bishop Edward Courcy in 1518.

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    The former residence of the Earls of Shannon is now the Esplanade Hotel. Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua (hence its name, derived from ty-Mologua, ‘‘ the house of Mologua’’). It was the largest of the many religious houses in the county of Cork. The visitor is not, therefore, surprised at the grandeur of the remains, which comprise the nave, choir and south transept, with a beautiful square tower, 68 feet high, added by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross, in 1518.

    Timoleague is three miles to the west, at the head of the bay, and possesses a station.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Timoleague, at the head of the bay, you pass near the remains of the largest religious house in county Cork. Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua, whose name gives the place its meaning, from ty-Mologua, "the house of Mologua." The ruins still hold the nave, choir, and south transept, with a square tower 68 feet high added by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross, in 1518.

22. Caragh Lake: virgin touring ground rivaling Killarney

    near Lough Caragh · population centre · Kerry

    Caragh Lake is a beautiful sheet of water about six miles long and a mile broad, described as rivaling Killarney in beauty while remaining largely undiscovered by tourists. The river Caragh connects the lough to the sea and is famous for salmon and trout.

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    a beautiful sheet of water about six miles long and in places a mile broad. Near the station is a fine hotel, under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, the white castellated tower of which, on the wooded shore of . the lake, attracts attention from the railway. The pretty river Caragh, five miles long, connecting the lough with the sea, is famous for salmon and trout. Indeed, all the streams hereabouts are fishful. A salmon and trout hatchery has been constructed in the hotel grounds. Good rough shooting —grouse, woodcock, duck, etc.—can be had in plenty on the neighbouring moors and mountains. There are goif links at Dooks. close by. Even Killarney cannot show anything more beautiful than Caragh Lake, and it has the advantage of being to a great extent virgin touring ground. Some delightful trips can be had on the lake by means of the hotel boats. A good short trip is to car or walk to Blackstones Bridge, at the south end of the lake, and boat back. Or one can continue southward from Blackstones by the riverside track for another two miles or so to Glenear, where there is a good hotel, much frequented by sportsmen. The surroundings of Glencar are in every way delightful, and the district well deserves its growing popularity.

    “ Here,’ it has been well said, “‘ one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of varying height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which we entered. About two and a half hours’ stay is allowed here, and the cars take us to the boat at Blackstones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving, the visitor may walk by the river along the fisherman’s path, passing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves ot birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale—the same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere meets the eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station, some very fine cliffs and headlands are passed, extending all along the lake on the east side, and the scenery is very varied and beautiful as we approach the end of our journey.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Caragh is a beautiful sheet of water about 6 miles long and in places a mile broad, and the road passes near it here in Kerry. Even Killarney cannot show anything more beautiful, and it has the advantage of being to a great extent virgin touring ground, largely undiscovered by tourists. Near the station stands a fine hotel under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company. Its white castellated tower on the wooded shore of the lake draws the eye from the railway. The pretty river Caragh, 5 miles long, connects the lough with the sea and is famous for salmon and trout. Indeed, all the streams hereabouts are fishful. A salmon and trout hatchery has been constructed in the hotel grounds. Good rough shooting can be had in plenty on the neighbouring moors and mountains, with grouse, woodcock, and duck. There are golf links at Dooks close by. Some delightful trips can be had on the lake by means of the hotel boats. A good short trip is to car or walk to Blackstones Bridge at the south end of the lake, and boat back. Or you can continue southward from Blackstones by the riverside track for another 2 miles or so to Glenear, where there is a good hotel much frequented by sportsmen. It has been well said that "one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale." The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, 7 or 8 miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of varying height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which we entered.

23. Blarney Castle built by Cormack MacCarthy c.1446

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1446

    The existing structure, the third on the site, dates from about 1446 and was built by Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir ('the strong'). The history of the MacCarthys and Desmonds is associated with the castle.

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    The history of Blarney Castle might be related at great length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the brave days of old are not likely greatly to interest the present generation. Suffice it to say that the structure, the third on the site, dates from about 1446, and was built by the then powerful Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Ldzdir, “‘the strong.” Of the siege of the castle by Cromwell’s forces under Ireton we have the following picturesque account in Kipling-like verse :—

    “It was now the poor boys of the Castle looked over the battlement wall,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Blarney stands a castle put up around 1446 by Cormack MacCarthy, called Laidir, the strong. It was the third structure raised on this spot. The doings of the MacCarthys and the Desmonds run through its history, though those old days are not likely to greatly interest the present generation, as the book says. The castle was later besieged by Cromwell's forces under Ireton. The verse begins: "It was now the poor boys of the Castle looked over the battlement wall."

24. Bull, Cow and Calf rocks of south Kerry

    near Bull Rock · townland · Cork

    The Calf is the most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Kenmare; the other two are known as the Bull and Cow from their supposed resemblance to those animals.

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    One of the most interesting excursions the tourist can make, if the weather favours, is along the iron-bound coast of Kerry, keeping as close under the land as safety will permit. Apply to proprietor of Royal Hotel for particulars of trips by steam launch. The voyager beholds a panorama of indescribable magnificence. It is at the outer points and headlands that the grandest features of Kerry scenery are found, and these are missed by the tourist who visits them only by land. Leaving Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee, as the case may be, we are carried through the somewhat tortuous navigation of the channel inside the island of Valentia, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay. Our exit to the ocean is under the massive and lofty cliffs of Portmagee ; and then we thread our way through the Hog Islands—Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, Molans, and many others, remarkable for their stern wildness. Some of the largest are wildernesses of bog and rock, green with mosses, ferns, lichens, and lowgrowing plants that require constant moisture for their support ; but without a tree or shrub of any kind. The Calf is the most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Kenmare. Two others are known as the Bull and Cow from their supposed resemblance to those animals.

    The Skelligs

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Bull Rock, you are near three remarkable rocks at the end of the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Kenmare. The Calf is the most southern of the three. The other two are known as the Bull and the Cow, from their supposed resemblance to those animals. One of the most interesting excursions a tourist can make, if the weather favours, is along the iron-bound coast of Kerry, keeping as close under the land as safety will permit. The voyager beholds a panorama of indescribable magnificence. It is at the outer points and headlands that the grandest features of Kerry scenery are found, and these are missed by the tourist who visits them only by land. Leaving Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee, the steam launch carries you through the somewhat tortuous navigation of the channel inside the island of Valentia, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay. The exit to the ocean is under the massive and lofty cliffs of Portmagee. Then the way threads through the Hog Islands, Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, Molans, and many others, remarkable for their stern wildness. Some of the largest are wildernesses of bog and rock, green with mosses, ferns, lichens, and low-growing plants that require constant moisture, but without a tree or shrub of any kind.

25. Celbridge Abbey and Dean Swift's Vanessa

    Celbridge · town · Kildare

    The abbey near Celbridge was a favourite resort of Dean Swift and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of Vanessa in Swift's poem 'Cadenus and Vanessa.' The site links literary history to this Kildare location.

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    HE point of departure from Dublin to the South of Ireland is the Kingsbridge terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, at the western end of the city. Leaving Kingsbridge Station, we skirt the famous Phoenix Park, and pass in succession Clondalkin, where may be seen one of the most perfect of the many round towers in Ireland; Luean, noted for its mineral spring and its strawberry beds; and Hazlehatch. The latter affords access to the town of Celbridge, near which is the abbey of the same name, a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa in his poem of “‘ Cadenus and Vanessa.”

    Our onward journey is through pretty country, At Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Celbridge gives its name to an abbey nearby. That abbey was a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh. She was the original of the Vanessa in his poem "Cadenus and Vanessa." Through that poem and that name, this Kildare town holds a corner of Swift's literary story.

26. College in Nelson Street, Youghal, and Congreve residence

    Youghal · town · Cork

    The college founded by the Earl of Desmond still stands in Nelson Street, close to St Mary's Church. It was for a time the residence of the dramatist William Congreve and his father, the latter being the Earl of Cork's agent.

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    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “great ”’ Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography: ‘‘ All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries, with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of {50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Youghal takes its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been once covered with yews. The town received its first charter from King John, and it was once strongly fortified. A large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered the town in 1649 by the Water Gate and for a time made it his headquarters. In Main Street stands an ancient tower known as Tynte's Castle. A street from there leads to St Mary's Church, which occupies the site of a church that existed before the Norman invasion. The eighth Earl of Desmond rebuilt that church and founded a college in connection with it in 1464. The college still stands in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was for a time the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, who served as the Earl of Cork's agent. The church was restored early in the seventeenth century by the first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588. In his autobiography he described his starting wealth: "All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries, with my rapier and dagger." Before his death his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks. The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet and is known as Cromwell's.

27. Commercial Cable Company landing at Waterville

    Waterville · townland · Kerry · 1894

    The Commercial Cable Company landed two cables at Waterville, the latest completed in 1894, with a station and officials' houses forming a feature of the village. Two other cables connected France and England with this point, and across the bay at Ballinskelligs stood the United States Cable Company's station.

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    Hoiels.— Bay View, Butler’s Arms, Great Southern, etc. Sees est and one man, 1s. hour!*5s. day. Two men, 2s. hour, 10s. The village, which bids fair shortly to become a town, is largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the Jough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbourhood. Fishing is, for the most part, free ; salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place (close to the Bay View Hotel) is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. Here is the junction with another road which comes directly through the mountains from Killarney, thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attractive Glencar on the way (see p. 130). The village is a tempting place of sojourn, commanding magnificent views of the Atlantic on the one hand, and of the mountains on the other ; and it is within three minutes’ walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. Here, also, the Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables—the latest completed in 1894; and their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be inspected on application, Iwo other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. Moreover, at Ballinskelligs, across the bay, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks of the little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries into the bay the surplus water of—

    Lough Currane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the Commercial Cable Company landed two of their cables in Waterville, the latest completed in 1894. Their station, with the houses of the officials, was quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms could be inspected on application. The village itself was a tempting place to stay, commanding magnificent views of the Atlantic on one hand and the mountains on the other, and within three minutes' walk of Lough Currane. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place, close to the Bay View Hotel, was a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. The village was largely resorted to by anglers, who found good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbourhood. Fishing was, for the most part, free; salmon and brown and white trout were plentiful. There was excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery was also worth a visit. Two other cables connected France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. And across the bay, at Ballinskelligs, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company could be seen.

28. Dunloe Castle, seat of O'Sullivan More

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry

    On the return route via Churchtown to visit the grave of a great chief, travellers pass the castle of the O'Sullivan More at Dunloe on the right. The territory is described as the ancient territory of the O'Sullivan chieftains.

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    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churehtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit—perhaps the Bishop’s palace.

    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen—rarely visited—and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Dunloe, you pass the castle of the O'Sullivan More. This is the ancient territory of the O'Sullivan chieftains. The road leads toward Churchtown, where travellers once went to visit the grave of a great chief whose territory this was. From the castle the route continues to Beaufort Bridge, where it joins the Cahirciveen road. Along the shore lies Lake View, once the residence of James O'Connell, brother of the great statesman. Further along stands the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. The Aghadoe Ruins are here too, along with Saint Finian's ancient shrine and the Pulpit, which was perhaps the Bishop's palace. For those who are more active, a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. A good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen, rarely visited, and from there visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where ponies left at the Hag's Glen will be waiting.

29. Fenian rising march from Cahirciveen

    Cahersiveen · town · Kerry · 1867

    During the Fenian rising of 1867, a body of insurgents marched from near Cahirciveen towards Killarney. The town's white Police Barracks in Scotch Baronial style marks the approximate starting point.

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    Cahirciveen is interesting as the most westerly town in the British Isles, and also from its connection with Daniel O’Connell, the ‘‘ Liberator,’’ who spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is built at the base of the Bentee (1,245 feet), and consists mainly of a long street bordering the main road. The only public building of note is the O’Connell Memorial Church. The white building in Scotch Baronial style, which shows up so prominently as the traincrosses the estuary, is the Police Barracks. From near this spot a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867.

    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballyearberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    Cahirciveen sits at the base of the Bentee, 1,245 feet, the most westerly town in the British Isles. Daniel O'Connell, the Liberator, spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is mainly a long street bordering the main road. The one public building of note is the O'Connell Memorial Church. There is a white building in Scotch Baronial style, the Police Barracks, that shows up prominently as the train crosses the estuary. From near this spot a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867. Among the spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballyearberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O'Connells were the hereditary constables. It stands near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

30. Giant's Stairs at Passage

    Passage West · town · Cork

    The steep sandstone ledges on the Passage side of the channel are known as the Giant's Stairs, traditionally attributed to the giant O'Mahony of the powerful Mahony sept, from whom Lough Mahon takes its name.

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    A comparatively narrow channel separates the mainland from Great Island, on which Queenstown stands. The ledges of steep sandstone rock on the Passage side are known as the Giant’s Stairs, and are said to have been constructed by the giant O’Mahony, a member of the powerful sept of Mahonys, from whom Lough Mahon takes its name. Glenbrook, where is the next station, is a growing village much favoured by Cork people for summer residence. The Royal Victoria Hotel and Baths will arrest the eye by their curious construction, suggestive of primitive lake dwellings, though it is only fair to say that there is nothing primitive about the hotel itself, which is a very comfortable place of residence. The saltwater swimming-bath is 200 feet by 30 feet. Special bathers’ tickets are issued from Cork at reduced rates, which include fare and bath.

    Monkstown,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    Passage West sits on a narrow channel that separates the mainland from Great Island, where Queenstown stands. On the Passage side, the ledges of steep sandstone rock are known as the Giant's Stairs. They are said to have been built by the giant O'Mahony, who belonged to the powerful sept of Mahonys. It is from that family that Lough Mahon takes its name. The story gives the rocks their name, and the name of the waters comes from the same line of people. Whatever you make of giants, the stairs are there in the stone, steep and bare, and the channel runs beside them.

31. Golf links and racecourse near Killarney

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Excellent golf links of nine holes were laid out in Lord Kenmare's Park, with a golf club whose members included the lord and resident gentry. A racecourse was situated in a natural amphitheatre near Killarney, where a meeting was held once a year, and the Regatta on the Lower Lake was a feature of the season.

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    ing season is in March, April and May. The close season commences in November, and ends in. January. The boatmen generally take out a license, which they have, or assume to have, the privilege of transferring to the tourist who employs them and their boats. There is a Racecourse in a natural amphitheatre near Killarney, where a meeting is held once a year; and the Regatta on the Lower Lake is one of the features of the season. These, with. billiard rooms for the employment of a wet day, effectually remove all fears of ennui from the minds of visitors to Killarney. |

    Cycling and Motoring. ‘

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    Killarney had its amusements for visitors. There was a racecourse set in a natural amphitheatre near the town, where a meeting was held once a year. The Regatta on the Lower Lake was one of the features of the season. Billiard rooms were there too, for the employment of a wet day. Together these were said to effectually remove all fears of ennui from the minds of visitors to Killarney. The fishing season ran in March, April and May, with a close season from November to January. Boatmen generally took out a license, which they had, or assumed to have, the privilege of transferring to the tourist who employed them and their boats.

32. Pass of Keimaneigh, the pass of the deer

    near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

    The Pass of Keimaneigh, meaning 'the pass of the deer,' is a stern defile over a mile and a quarter in length, probably the finest of its kind in Ireland. The mountain appears to have been rent asunder, with great cracked masses of rock poised above the narrow road.

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    “the pass of the deer,” is a stern defile, more than a mile and a quarter in length, and probably the finest thing of its kind in Ireland, though some would be disposed to give the preference to the Pass of Ballaghbeama in Kerry (see p. 132). The mountain appears to have been rent asunder by some mighty convulsion, and the minute correspondence and similarity of the strata on each side is apparent in many places. There is only just room in the deep cleft for the narrow road and the torrent which foams beside it. Great cracked masses of rock are poised above, and threaten at any moment to fall.

    The summit of the pass is 700 feet above sea-level, and is the highest part of the route. On emerging, we round the unmistakable Sheehy Mountain, and have the river Owvanz for company all the way down the long descent to Bantry Bay. The views ahead are, in clear weather, superb. About midway we pass the Castle of Carrignass (‘‘ Rock of the Waterfall ’’), a former seat of the omnipresent O’Sullivans, and in very fair preservation. At the head of the bay, the road turns leftward to Bantry (see p. 161), four miles, and rightward to Glengariff (p. 153), seven miles.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 70

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Keimaneigh is the Pass of Keimaneigh, the pass of the deer. It is a stern defile, more than a mile and a quarter in length, and probably the finest thing of its kind in Ireland, though some would give the preference to the Pass of Ballaghbeama in Kerry. The mountain appears to have been rent asunder by some mighty convulsion, and the correspondence and similarity of the strata on each side is apparent in many places. There is only just room in the deep cleft for the narrow road and the torrent which foams beside it. Great cracked masses of rock are poised above and threaten at any moment to fall. The summit of the pass is 700 feet above sea-level, the highest part of the route. On emerging, you round the unmistakable Sheehy Mountain and have the river Owvanz for company all the way down the long descent to Bantry Bay. The views ahead are, in clear weather, superb. About midway stands the Castle of Carrignass, the rock of the waterfall, a former seat of the O'Sullivans, in very fair preservation. At the head of the bay, the road turns leftward to Bantry, four miles, and rightward to Glengariff, seven miles.

33. Spenser's possible marriage at St. Fin Barre's site

    Cork · city · Cork · 1594

    It is thought probable that the poet Edmund Spenser was married on June 11, 1594, in the church that formerly stood on the site of St. Fin Barre's Cathedral. His bride was a Cork lady, but of the county, not the city.

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    It is thought probable that Spenser, the poet, was married (June 11, 1594) in the church which formerly stood on the site. His bride was a Cork lady, but of the county, not the city. He provokingly asks—

    “7s0 {12g |

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the site of St. Fin Barre's Cathedral lies in the city. A church once stood there, and it is thought probable that the poet Edmund Spenser was married there on June 11, 1594. His bride was a Cork lady, but of the county, not the city.

34. Topography and name of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    The city of Cork is built on an island formed by the divided flood of the River Lee. Its name derives from 'Corcach', meaning a marsh, which was fitting for the original landscape of the settlement.

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    It will then be seen that the main and older part of the city stands on an island, of which the Custom House forms the eastern tip, the North and South Channels uniting at that point and expanding, after a short, straight course beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli, into the noble sheet of Cork Harbour. The island, strictly speaking, is a cluster of islands, originally separated by channels, and arched over in comparatively modern times. The name is a corruption of Corcach, ‘a marsh,’ and there can be no doubt as to its original appropriateness. The town has, however, long since overflowed the water, if the Irishism may be allowed, and now occupies not only the island but the north and south banks, and the rising ground on either side. The fact that the river forks adds considerably to the convenience of Cork as a port, as the quayage is thereby nearly doubled.

    Vessels of considerable burthen can pass as far up the North Channel-as St. Patrick’s Bridge, and to the Parliament Bridge by the South Channel, the Parnell Bridge being so constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage of vessels. The shipping trade of Cork is extensive, and includes cattle, pigs, butter (who has not heard of Cork butter ?), and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and other kinds of woollen goods, flax, hemp, etc. Amongst the steamers making Cork a regular port of call, mention may be made of those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company (Penrose Quay), and the Clyde Shipping Company (St.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    As you come into Cork, you are entering a city built on an island. The main and older part stands on that island, with the Custom House forming its eastern tip. The River Lee divides into North and South Channels, and they unite again at that point, then run a short, straight course beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli before opening into the noble sheet of Cork Harbour. Strictly speaking, the island is a cluster of islands, originally separated by channels that were arched over in comparatively modern times. The name Cork is a corruption of Corcach, meaning a marsh, and there can be no doubt as to its original appropriateness. The town has long since overflowed the water, and now occupies not only the island but the north and south banks and the rising ground on either side. The fact that the river forks adds considerably to the convenience of Cork as a port, as the quayage is thereby nearly doubled. Vessels of considerable burden can pass as far up the North Channel as St. Patrick's Bridge, and to the Parliament Bridge by the South Channel. The Parnell Bridge is so constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage of vessels. The shipping trade of Cork is extensive, and includes cattle, pigs, butter, and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and other kinds of woollen goods, flax, hemp, and more. Among the steamers making Cork a regular port of call are those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company on Penrose Quay, and the Clyde Shipping Company on St. Patrick's Quay.

35. Caves and secret passages beneath Blarney Castle

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    Subterranean chambers run in all directions through the rock on which Blarney Castle stands. The caves are very lofty but visitors have chipped off nearly all the stalactites and stalagmites. The caves were formerly used as prisons.

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    The attendant guide will first conduct the visitor to the Caves and the secret passages which run in all directions through the rock on which the castle stands. These subterranean chambers are very lofty—and occasionally very dirty —but the irrepressible memento-hunter has. chipped off nearly all the stalactites and stalagmites. The caves were formerly used as prisons.

    Persons who prefer the light of day will at once make their way to the Keep, a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet high, capped by machiolated battlements, which, it will be noticed do not form part of the wall, but are built out from it in a sort of staging, with the object of enabling defenders to drop stones and other trifles on to the heads of assailants. In addition to the keep, there are extensive remains of other buildings. |

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, beneath Blarney Castle, caves and secret passages run in all directions through the rock on which the castle stands. These subterranean chambers are very lofty, though visitors over the years have chipped off nearly all the stalactites and stalagmites. The caves were formerly used as prisons. Above the caves, the Keep still stands, a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet high, topped by machicolated battlements. These battlements do not form part of the wall but are built out from it on a sort of staging, so defenders could drop stones onto the heads of attackers. Beyond the keep there are extensive remains of other buildings.

36. Church Island beehive oratory, Lough Currane

    Lough Currane · lake or lakes · Kerry · 500–599

    On the largest islet of Lough Currane, Church Island, stand the ruins of a beehive oratory built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the sixth century. The lake is the second largest in Kerry, fed by the river Cummaragh and connected to several mountain loughs.

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    about eight miles in circumference, and second only in point of size in Kerry to the Lower Lake at Killarney. Its surface is broken by numerous islets, on the largest of which, Chureh Island, are the ruins of a beehive oratory, built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the sixth century. The lake is fed by the river Cummaragh, which conveys into it the overflow of Loughs Derriana and Cloonaghlin and of other mountain

    140 DERRYNANE

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Currann stretches close by, about 8 miles around, second in size only to the Lower Lake at Killarney. Its surface is broken by numerous islets. On the largest, Church Island, stand the ruins of a beehive oratory, built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the 6th century. The lake is fed by the river Cummaragh, which carries into it the overflow of Loughs Derriana and Cloonaghlin and other mountain loughs.

37. Cloyne Cathedral and Bishop Berkeley monument

    Cloyne · town · Cork · 1889

    Cloyne Cathedral is now used as a Protestant church, and its ancient diocese is merged in that of Cork. A monument to Bishop Berkeley, the famous eighteenth-century metaphysician, was placed in the cathedral in 1889.

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    Cloyne Cathedral is now used as a Protestant Church, and the diocese, a very ancient one, is merged in that of Cork. A former bishop was Berkeley, the famous eighteenth century metaphysician. He was buried at Oxford, but a monument to his memory was placed in the cathedral in 1889.

    There are two roads from Cloyne to Ballycotton and the coast, the more circuitous being known asthe Shangarry road.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Cloyne gives its name to a cathedral now used as a Protestant church. The diocese was a very ancient one, now merged in that of Cork. A former bishop was Berkeley, the famous eighteenth-century metaphysician. He was buried at Oxford, but a monument to his memory was placed in the cathedral in 1889.

38. Fastnet Rock Lighthouse off Cape Clear

    near Fastnet Rock · townland · Cork

    On the summit of the Fastnet Rock, about four miles west by south of Cape Clear, stands a lighthouse whose light is 148 feet above high-water mark and visible for eighteen miles, with a flash of five seconds per minute.

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    three miles long by one and a half broad at its widest part. It is almost divided in two near its southern extremity. This, the highest part of the island, presents an inaccessible cliff to the sea, and—as every schoolboy knows—is the first land sighted by vessels on their approach from America. On the summit of the Fastnet Rock, distant about four miles west by south, is a lighthouse, the light of which is 148 feet above high-water mark, and is visible for eighteen miles. It has a flash of five seconds per minute.

    The island of Clear is called in the old Irish MSS. Inish Damhly, and in the ecclesiastical books, Insul@ Sancta Clara. It is so far from the centre of civilisation that the inhabitants have retained more of their original customs and language than is the case in any other part of the United Kingdom.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Fastnet Rock, out about four miles west by south of Cape Clear, stands a lighthouse on the summit of the rock. The light sits 148 feet above high-water mark and is visible for 18 miles, with a flash of 5 seconds per minute. Cape Clear itself is the first land sighted by vessels on their approach from America. The island kept its old customs and language longer than most of the United Kingdom, being far from the centre of civilisation.

39. Lough Guitane under Stumpa mountain

    near Lough Guitane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Guitane is a retired, spacious lake lying under the shadows of Stumpa, a mountain 2,280 feet high. Surrounded by barren hills, gloomy glens and weird rocks, it affords good trout fishing and is fed by a river flowing to the Lower Lake.

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    or Kittane, a retired and spacious lake lying under the shadows of Stpooma, a mountain 2,280 feet high. Both the lake and the river which flows from it afford the angler good sport; the trout are more abundant and better flavoured than those caught in the other lakes. Surrounded by barren hills, gloomy glens and weird rocks, Guittane would anywhere, save in the vicinity of such superb contrast as the waters of Tore and Leane provide, be considered a remarkable lake. We set out in the afternoon to visit—

    Kenmare Demesne,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Guitane is a retired, spacious lake lying under the shadows of Stumpa, a mountain 2280 feet high. The lake and the river that flows from it give the angler good sport. The trout here are more abundant and better flavoured than those caught in the other lakes. Surrounded by barren hills, gloomy glens and weird rocks, Lough Guitane would anywhere, save in the vicinity of such superb contrast as the waters of Tore and Leane provide, be considered a remarkable lake.

40. Mathew Tower on Little Island, tribute to Apostle of Temperance

    near Little Island · townland · Cork

    On Little Island, conspicuous on a small eminence, stands the Mathew Tower, erected as a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. It is visible from the railway route along Lough Mahon.

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    We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for _ the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Teniperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Passage West,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here on Little Island, conspicuous on a small rise, stands the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. The island sits in Lough Mahon, as this wide expanse of the Lee is called, which has the appearance of a land-locked lake, bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures. The tower would have been visible to travellers on the railway that skirts the water, especially when the tide is up and the views are at their finest.

41. Parknasilla demesne and health resort

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    Parknasilla is a health resort set in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill, formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick. A commodious hotel was erected in the demesne under the Great Southern and Western Railway Co., attracting increasing numbers of tourists.

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    In the demesne, formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick, has been erected a tasteful and commodious hotel (under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Co.), to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers are making this place their headquarters. It is usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried tourist is hkely to remain longer. ‘There are really two hotels » in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about a hundred acres, and include several islets connected by rustic bridges.

    The situation of Parknasilla is delightful. It stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill (895 feet), with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it ‘one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough,’’ and frankly owns that ‘‘ to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us.’ On the important subject of climate a writer in the Dublin Journal of Medical Science says of Parknasilla :-—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Parknasilla is a health resort in a demesne that was formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick. A tasteful and commodious hotel has been erected there under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers are making it their headquarters. It is usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about 100 acres, and include several islets connected by rustic bridges. The situation is delightful. Parknasilla stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill, 895 feet, with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it "one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough," and frankly owns that "to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us."

42. Royal cairn on Carran Tual summit

    near Carrauntoohil · mountain or mountain range · Kerry · 1858

    The summit of Carran Tual is crowned by a cairn whose first stone was placed by the King, when he was Prince of Wales, during his 1858 visit to Killarney. Tourists traditionally add a stone to the monument.

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    We now commence the ascent, the shock-headed guides, laden with coats and knapsacks and armed with cudgels, leading. The path is not difficult, though rugged in places, and strewn with coarse stones. Continuing for about three miles, we reach an exceedingly lonely glen, whence the mountain rises almost precipitously, and makes it necessary for us to dismount. This is called the Hag’s Glen, and here are two gloomy lakelets where the hag is said to bathe and wash her clothes. The guide will show one of her teeth, and point out her chair and her crutch—all fantastic rocks. But the path becomes steeper and more steep, and not all our guide’s wit can prevent the feeling that our work is tough. After an hour and a half’s scrambling, we reach the summit, crowned by a little cairn, the first stone of which was placed by the King, then Prince of Wales; and having emulated

    Killarney (h)

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Carrauntoohil is the mountain near the road here, and its summit holds a story worth telling. In 1858 the Prince of Wales, who would later be King, came to Killarney, and climbed this mountain. The guides led the way, laden with coats and knapsacks, armed with cudgels. The path ran rugged, strewn with coarse stones, for about 3 miles, until they reached a lonely glen. They called it the Hag's Glen, where two gloomy lakelets lay, and the hag was said to bathe and wash her clothes. The guides would show one of her teeth, point out her chair and her crutch, all fantastic rocks. From there the mountain rose almost precipitously, and they had to dismount. After an hour and a half of scrambling they reached the summit. There stood a little cairn, its first stone placed by the King, then Prince of Wales. Tourists who follow add their own stones to it.

43. St. Peter and St. Paul's Catholic Church by Pugin

    Cork · city · Cork

    The Roman Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a handsome Gothic building designed by Welby Pugin, stands off St. Patrick's Street and the Grand Parade. The interior is very richly decorated, and it is recommended as the one Catholic church to see in Cork.

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    a handsome Gothic building designed by Welby Pugin. The interior is very richly decorated. For those who have time to see only one Catholic church we should be inclined to recommend this. The architectural proportions of the exterior would be seen to better effect in a wider street.

    A few yards further we turn left into the Grand Parade, the widest street in Cork. It stands on what was once a large dock, arched over in 1780. Up to that time the western side was known as Tuckey’s Quay, and the eastern as the Mall—the latter then a pleasant promenade, shaded with trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge on which stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, colloquially known as ‘“ George-a-cock-horse.”” The Grand Parade is notable for an immense circular fountain which stands in the middle of the roadway. There is an inscription round it relating to one Berwick, but we are not aware that any one has ever been known to make the extensive circuit for the sake of reading it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable Markets are on the Parade.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the Catholic Church of St. Peter and St. Paul stands off St. Patrick's Street and the Grand Parade. It is a handsome Gothic building designed by Welby Pugin. The interior is very richly decorated. The guide says that if you have time to see only one Catholic church, this is the one to choose. The exterior proportions would be seen to better effect in a wider street. A few yards further you turn left into the Grand Parade, the widest street in Cork. It stands on what was once a large dock, arched over in 1780. Before that the western side was known as Tuckey's Quay, and the eastern side as the Mall, then a pleasant promenade shaded with trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge, on which stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, known as George-a-cock-horse. The Grand Parade has an immense circular fountain in the middle of the roadway, with an inscription round it about one Berwick, though the guide notes that no one has ever been known to make the extensive circuit just to read it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable markets are on the Parade.

44. Aghadoe Ruins: St Finian's shrine and the Pulpit

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Near Aghadoe House, the Aghadoe Ruins include Saint Finian's ancient shrine and a feature called the Pulpit, possibly the site of the Bishop's palace. These ruins are passed on the left when returning from the mountain excursion.

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    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churehtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit—perhaps the Bishop’s palace.

    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen—rarely visited—and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    As the road passes through the parish of Aghadoe, an old guidebook tells of travellers who reached the foot of the mountain and rewarded their guides before seating themselves again in the car. They asked the driver to take them home by Churchtown, to visit the grave of a great chief whose ancient territory they were in. They passed the castle of the O'Sullivan More at Dunloe, then joined the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore they saw Lake View, at one time the residence of James O'Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then they passed the Catholic Church near Aghadoe House, and the Aghadoe Ruins came into view, Saint Finian's ancient shrine, and the Pulpit, perhaps the Bishop's palace. Beyond the ruins, the guidebook offers another route for the more active. A long ridge can be crossed from Carran Tual to Curraghmore, showing a wonderful view. A good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen, rarely visited. From there, visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where ponies left at the Hag's Glen would be waiting.

45. Bantry Bay and Glengariff harbour

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

    Bantry Bay opens out as a noble expanse below the descent to Glengariff, with an island-dotted harbour. The bay is sheltered by islands so as to resemble a serene lake, and was famously praised by Thackeray.

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    ‘“ Were such a bay lying upon English shores,” said Thackeray, in often quoted words, ‘‘ it would be a world’s wonder.” It is that now, and it is perhaps just as well that the Glen, as the local people affectionately call it, does not lie upon English shores, or its charm would probably have been spoilt long ago. As an American writer put it, “‘ What appears chiefly to impress the mind in this secluded region is the deep

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 59

    As the companion tells it

    Bantry Bay opens out as a noble expanse below the descent toward Glengariff, its harbour dotted with islands, sheltered so that it resembles a serene lake. Thackeray said of it: "Were such a bay lying upon English shores, it would be a world's wonder." The local people affectionately call it the Glen, and perhaps it is just as well it does not lie on English shores, or its charm would probably have been spoilt long ago.

46. Cloon Lake's wild solitude

    near Cloon Lough · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Cloon Lake, Upper and Lower, is described as a good fishing resort encircled by high cliffs. A small green island on the lower lake hosts nesting herons and wood-pigeons, and wild goats and marten cats have been seen swimming from it.

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    **Cloon Lake, Upper and Lower, is a good fishing resort. The upper end is encircled by high, storm-riven. cliffs of solid stone ; and on the bosom of the lower lake rests a small green island, covered with rocks, heather, and low trees. In this solitude the heron and the wood-pigeon build their nests side by side; and on the approach of man, the wild goat and the marten cat have been seen swimming away to the mainland.”

    Another noteworthy sheet of water in the neighbourhood of Glencar is Acoose Lake, near to which the high-road to Killorglin passes. The mountaineer may humour his weakness from Caragh or Glencar as much as he pleases, amongst the peaks ‘‘ available ’’ being Carran Tual (3,414), more often ascended from Killarney (see p. 96), and, for the less ambitious, Gortnagloran (nearly 1,000 feet high) on the east side of the lake. A series of driving and boating excursions has been arranged from the Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake, at fixed prices. The drive along the road to Waterville should be taken at least as far as the Swiss-like Ballaghasheen Pass. Another fine drive is by the road southward through the Ballaghbeama Pass to Blackwater Bridge and Parknasilla (22 miles). Yet another drive, a circular one, is round the east side of Lough Caragh to Blackstones Bridge, then through Windy Gap, with its fine frontward view, to Glenbeigh.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    Cloon Lough is a lake of wild solitude in Kerry, and a good fishing resort at that. High cliffs encircle the water. The lake comes in two parts, the Upper and the Lower. On the lower lake there is a small green island, and the herons and the wood-pigeons nest on it. Wild goats and marten cats have been seen swimming from the island. The cliffs stand around the whole of the water, both the upper and the lower stretches of the lake. The fishing is good in this place. That small green island on the lower lake is where the herons and wood-pigeons have their nests, and the wild goats and marten cats have been seen swimming from it.

47. Cloyne Round Tower

    Cloyne · town · Cork

    Cloyne's famous Round Tower adjoins the Cathedral and is in good preservation. Originally 92 feet high with a conical roof, it was damaged by lightning after being fitted as a belfry, and repaired with a battlement increasing its height to 102 feet.

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    The route (b), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney, but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (54 miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 114 feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is

    56 | BALLYCOTTON

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Cloyne, 54 miles from Aghada, is remarkable for its Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and like others of its class had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement placed round the top, increasing the height to 102 feet. The door is 114 feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, of a uniform diameter of 9 feet, with walls 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question that has long puzzled antiquaries. A mile or so from the town, Castlemary possesses an interesting cromlech. The roads are distinctly good for cyclists, and the drive onward to Ballycotton is pretty, though it cannot be compared with the drives about Killarney.

48. Cork's island city and Custom House

    Cork · city · Cork

    The older part of Cork stands on an island, with the Custom House forming its eastern tip where the North and South Channels of the Lee unite before flowing into Cork Harbour.

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    It will then be seen that the main and older part of the city stands on an island, of which the Custom House forms the eastern tip, the North and South Channels uniting at that point and expanding, after a short, straight course beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli, into the noble sheet of Cork Harbour. The island, strictly speaking, is a cluster of islands, originally separated by channels, and arched over in comparatively modern times. The name is a corruption of Corcach, ‘a marsh,’ and there can be no doubt as to its original appropriateness. The town has, however, long since overflowed the water, if the Irishism may be allowed, and now occupies not only the island but the north and south banks, and the rising ground on either side. The fact that the river forks adds considerably to the convenience of Cork as a port, as the quayage is thereby nearly doubled.

    Vessels of considerable burthen can pass as far up the North Channel-as St. Patrick’s Bridge, and to the Parliament Bridge by the South Channel, the Parnell Bridge being so constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage of vessels. The shipping trade of Cork is extensive, and includes cattle, pigs, butter (who has not heard of Cork butter ?), and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and other kinds of woollen goods, flax, hemp, etc. Amongst the steamers making Cork a regular port of call, mention may be made of those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company (Penrose Quay), and the Clyde Shipping Company (St.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Cork, a city built on water. The main and older part stands on an island, and the Custom House forms its eastern tip. That is where the North and South Channels of the Lee come together. After a short, straight run beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli, the river opens out into the broad sheet of Cork Harbour. Strictly speaking, the island is a cluster of islands, originally separated by channels that were arched over in comparatively modern times. The name Cork comes from Corcach, meaning a marsh, and there is no doubting the name once suited the place. The town has long since overflowed the water, as the book puts it, and now occupies not only the island but the north and south banks and the rising ground on either side. The river forking here nearly doubles the quayage, which adds to Cork's convenience as a port. Vessels of considerable burthen can come up the North Channel as far as St. Patrick's Bridge, and up the South Channel to the Parliament Bridge. Parnell Bridge swings round to let them through. The shipping trade is extensive, cattle, pigs, butter, all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and woollen goods, flax and hemp. Steamers call regularly, among them those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company at Penrose Quay, and the Clyde Shipping Company at St.

49. Cummeenduff Glen and ridge route from Carran Tual

    near The Black Valley · valley · Kerry

    A third descent from the mountain crosses a long ridge from Carran Tual to Curraghmore, with a wonderful view. A good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen, rarely visited, and from thence visitors pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage.

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    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen—rarely visited—and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them.

    eel De DAY:

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    The Black Valley holds a route for the more active. A long ridge runs from Carran Tual to Curraghmore, and the view from it is wonderful. A good path leads down from there into Cummeenduff Glen, a place rarely visited. From the glen, visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe, by Gap Cottage, where ponies left at the Hag's Glen are meant to be waiting.

50. Derreen, seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne

    Derreen · townland · Kerry

    Derreen is the seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne, situated across the bay from Parknasilla. The Marquis does not permit the erection of a hotel, preventing it from becoming a holiday haven comparable to Parknasilla or Glengariff.

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    area of fifty-eight acres. Boating, bathing, fishing, and mountain-climbing may all be enjoyed to perfection in this favoured locality. The adventurous may row or sail right across the bay to Derreen, the seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Derreen would make just such another delightful haven for the holiday-maker as Parknasilla or Glengariff, but his lordship will not permit the erection of a hotel.

    Parknasilla to Kenmare.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Derreen, the seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne, across the bay from Parknasilla. You can row or sail right across the bay to it. Derreen would make just such another delightful haven for the holiday-maker as Parknasilla or Glengariff, but his lordship will not permit the erection of a hotel.

51. Dinish Island — O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl and Name Origin

    near Dinish Island · townland · Kerry

    Dinish Island, properly Dine-iske meaning 'the beginning of the waters,' is connected to the mainland by Old Weir Bridge. It features O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl, a rustic cottage for visitors, arbutus groves, and a bridge to Brikeen Island.

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    to see O’Sullivan’s Punch Bowl. Embowered in arbutus groves, a pretty rustic Cottage has been built for the accommodation of visitors. Here we can take tea, or saunter about and walk over to see Briekeen Island ; and further on, across another bridge, then entering Muckross demesne, visit the lakelet of Doolah and the old copper mines. The name is properly Dine-iske (‘‘ the beginning of the waters’’), but the boatmen know it as Dinish Island. Again we embark, this ‘time on—

    The Middle Lake,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Dinish Island, though the boatmen call it that. Its proper name is Dine-iske, meaning 'the beginning of the waters.' It connects to the mainland by Old Weir Bridge. O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl is the highlight, with arbutus groves and a rustic cottage built for visitors to take tea. From here you can walk over a bridge to Brikeen Island, or cross another bridge into Muckross demesne to see the lakelet of Doolah and the old copper mines.

52. Doulus Head caves

    near Doulus Head · promontory · Kerry

    The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty and bears resemblance to the interior of a cathedral. An ancient circular fort also stands near the castle at this promontory.

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    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballyearberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O’Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Doulus Head, there are caves beneath the promontory. The interior of one of them is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. The headland lies to the north-west of Cahirciveen, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near here too are the ruins of Ballyearberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More. The O'Connells were its hereditary constables. Near the castle stands an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort, though not so perfect. Cahirciveen makes a good centre for sportsmen, and the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells. A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O'Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

53. Father Mathew Memorial Chapel on Charlotte Quay

    Cork · city · Cork

    The Father Mathew Memorial Chapel, or Church of the Holy Trinity, is a limestone building on Charlotte Quay with an open front, pinnacled tower, and 200-foot spire. It contains a stained-glass window in memory of O'Connell, the Liberator.

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    or Church of the Holy Trinity. It is a beautiful limestone building, and when seen from across the water immediately arrests the eye by its curious open front and pinnacled tower. The spire is 200 feet high. The church contains a fine stainedglass window in memory of O’Connell, the ‘ Liberator.” Crossing the South Channel by Parliament Bridge, with its single arch, we turn westward by Sullivan’s Quay and French’s Quay to Bishop Street, noticing high up on the left the dingy wall of Elizabeth Fort. We now reach what is by far the most noteworthy and imposing building in Cork,

    St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    There is a limestone building in Cork called the Father Mathew Memorial Chapel, or the Church of the Holy Trinity, and seen from across the water it arrests the eye at once. It has a curious open front and a pinnacled tower, and the spire rises 200 feet. Inside, a fine stained-glass window keeps the memory of O'Connell, the Liberator.

54. Finest view of the Killarney lakes from Glengariff road

    near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The guide describes the finest general view of the Killarney lake country as that from the elevated ridges at the southern end of the Upper Lake, on the road from Glengariff. At a sudden turn the three lakes appear together in their valley.

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    The finest general view of the lake country is that from the elevated ridges at the southern end of the Upper Lake, on the road from Glengariff. Here at a sudden turn, as at the lifting of a curtain, the three lakes flash upon the eye at a glance, lying in their wondrous valley as if sleeping secure in the guardianship of the encircling hills.

    Throughout the entire district, as if to enhance its purely natural attractiveness with the touch of human sympathy, are scattered numerous memorials of the greatness or piety of the past—the mystic stone circles wherein the Druids celebrated their mysterious rites; the venerable abbeys of | Aghadoe, Innisfallen and Muckross, looming out over the placid water of the lake, conspicuous in the landscape.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Upper Lake lies in the lake country of Kerry, and the road from Glengariff runs along its southern end. The finest general view of all the Killarney lakes comes from the elevated ridges there. At a sudden turn the three lakes flash upon the eye at a glance, lying in their wondrous valley as if sleeping secure in the guardianship of the encircling hills. Throughout the entire district, scattered memorials of the greatness or piety of the past enhance its natural attractiveness with the touch of human sympathy. There are mystic stone circles wherein the Druids celebrated their mysterious rites, and the venerable abbeys of Aghadoe, Innisfallen and Muckross, looming out over the placid water of the lake, conspicuous in the landscape.

55. Spike Island convict station

    Spike Island · townland · Cork

    Spike Island, also known as Fort Westmoreland, is the largest island in the harbour group and was formerly a convict station, with many government works executed by convict labour.

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    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for tine, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, vid Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies Spike Island, also called Fort Westmoreland, the largest of the islands in this harbour group. The harbour is best appreciated from the water, on the steamer route from Monkstown. The railway once ended at Monkstown, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and travellers bound for that place can keep their seats instead of changing from train to steamer. Many passengers still prefer the steamer via Queenstown, as it affords an opportunity of seeing the harbour. Leaving Monkstown, the steamer heads westward round White's Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. Haulbowline is an important naval dockyard and military station, with extensive works still in progress, though an order from the authorities must be obtained before it and neighbouring islands can be visited. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island lies further south. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. It is seen to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

56. St. Colman's Cathedral, Queenstown

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork

    The Roman Catholic Cathedral in Queenstown, dedicated to St. Colman, is a richly decorated florid Gothic building superbly situated above the harbour. Though still incomplete, over £100,000 had already been spent on it by the time of writing.

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    The only notable building in Queenstown is the richlydecorated Roman Catholic Cathedral—surely one of the most finely situated in the kingdom. It is dedicated to St. Colman, and, though still far from complete, should on no account be omitted from the programme of the sightseer. The style is a florid Gothic, the light and spacious interior being as pleasing to the eye as the exterior. The west front is elaborately. carved. Funds are lacking to complete the tower, but we believe something like £100,000 have already been spent.

    Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Cobh, there stands a Roman Catholic cathedral dedicated to St. Colman, surely one of the most finely situated in the kingdom. It is a richly decorated building in florid Gothic style. The west front is elaborately carved. The interior is light and spacious, as pleasing to the eye as the exterior. Funds are lacking to complete the tower, so it stands still far from complete. Something like £100,000 had already been spent on it. The cathedral is the only notable building in Queenstown, as the town was called, and should on no account be omitted from the programme of the sightseer. Beyond it, Great Island stretches five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit may be made in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts and now part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

57. The Mardyke promenade and Thackeray's description

    Mardyke · electoral division · Cork

    The Mardyke is a mile-long promenade between the two channels of the Lee, arched by elms. Thackeray described its verdant gardens, pastures, towers, and villas, though modern building has reduced its charm.

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    “We pass all sorts of delightful verdure, cheerful gardens, and broad green luscious pastures down to the beautiful river Lee. On one side, the river shines away towards the city, with its towers and purple steeples ; on the other, it is broken by little waterfalls and bounded in by blue hills, an old castle lowering in the distance, and innumerable parks and villas lying along the pleasant, wooded banks. How beautiful the scene is, and how rich and how happy ! ”

    But the encroachments of the builder have robbed the Mardyke of much of its charm, and it cannot for a moment compare with the Marina, at the other end of the city (see p- 42). The ground to the north formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition, 1902—3, and has now been converted into a public park, known as Fitzgerald Park, in honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Mardyke, the mile-long promenade between the two channels of the Lee, arched by elms. Thackeray described passing "all sorts of delightful verdure, cheerful gardens, and broad green luscious pastures down to the beautiful river Lee." On one side, the river shines toward the city with its towers and purple steeples. On the other, it is broken by little waterfalls and bounded by blue hills, an old castle in the distance, and parks and villas along the wooded banks. He called the scene beautiful, rich, and happy. But the guidebook says building has robbed the Mardyke of much of its charm, and it cannot compare with the Marina at the other end of the city. The ground to the north formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition and is now a public park called Fitzgerald Park, named for Sir Edward Fitzgerald, who was Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition.

58. Belvelly Castle and Great Island

    near Great Island · townland · Cork

    Great Island, formerly known as Barrymore Island, measures five miles east to west and two south to north. On its circuit are martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, a former seat of the Hodnetts, now part of the Barry estate.

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    Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

    Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more convenient to regard this as a separate trip (see p. 54), and to continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Great Island, you are travelling through a place that was once called Barrymore Island. It runs five miles from east to west and two miles from south to north. The whole circuit can be made from Queenstown in about two hours by drive or by bicycle. The views are varied and pleasing, but the book that records this says nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle. Belvelly Castle was formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, it is part of the Barry estate. Great Island itself was at one time known as Barrymore Island. The old name tells you who held this ground. The Hodnetts had their seat at the castle before the Barry estate absorbed it, and the towers still stand along the circuit, marking the coast. What is left of the castle and the towers is what remains to be seen.

59. Cahirciveen and Daniel O'Connell

    Cahersiveen · town · Kerry

    Cahirciveen, the most westerly town in the British Isles, is associated with Daniel O'Connell, who spent his childhood at nearby Carhan House. The town's only notable public building is the O'Connell Memorial Church.

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    Cahirciveen is interesting as the most westerly town in the British Isles, and also from its connection with Daniel O’Connell, the ‘‘ Liberator,’’ who spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is built at the base of the Bentee (1,245 feet), and consists mainly of a long street bordering the main road. The only public building of note is the O’Connell Memorial Church. The white building in Scotch Baronial style, which shows up so prominently as the traincrosses the estuary, is the Police Barracks. From near this spot a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867.

    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballyearberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    Cahirciveen is the most westerly town in the British Isles, built at the base of the Bentee, 1,245 feet high. It consists mainly of a long street bordering the main road. Its connection to Daniel O'Connell, the Liberator, gives the town its interest. He spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The only public building of note is the O'Connell Memorial Church. A white Police Barracks in Scotch Baronial style stands prominent. In 1867, during the Fenian rising, a body of insurgents marched from near this spot towards Killarney. The town makes a good centre for exploring the rugged scenery of this western promontory. Among the nearby places are the ruins of Ballyearberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More. The O'Connells were its hereditary constables. It stands near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

60. Cork's cluster of islands and arched channels

    Cork · city · Cork

    The island on which the main part of Cork stands is actually a cluster of smaller islands. These were originally separated by water channels which were arched over and built upon in modern times.

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    It will then be seen that the main and older part of the city stands on an island, of which the Custom House forms the eastern tip, the North and South Channels uniting at that point and expanding, after a short, straight course beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli, into the noble sheet of Cork Harbour. The island, strictly speaking, is a cluster of islands, originally separated by channels, and arched over in comparatively modern times. The name is a corruption of Corcach, ‘a marsh,’ and there can be no doubt as to its original appropriateness. The town has, however, long since overflowed the water, if the Irishism may be allowed, and now occupies not only the island but the north and south banks, and the rising ground on either side. The fact that the river forks adds considerably to the convenience of Cork as a port, as the quayage is thereby nearly doubled.

    Vessels of considerable burthen can pass as far up the North Channel-as St. Patrick’s Bridge, and to the Parliament Bridge by the South Channel, the Parnell Bridge being so constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage of vessels. The shipping trade of Cork is extensive, and includes cattle, pigs, butter (who has not heard of Cork butter ?), and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and other kinds of woollen goods, flax, hemp, etc. Amongst the steamers making Cork a regular port of call, mention may be made of those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company (Penrose Quay), and the Clyde Shipping Company (St.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the older part of the city stands on what looks like one island, with the Custom House forming its eastern tip. There the North and South Channels unite, running a short, straight course beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli before opening into the broad sheet of the harbour. Strictly speaking, it is not one island but a cluster of them, originally separated by water channels that were arched over and built upon in comparatively modern times. The name comes from Corcach, meaning, in the source's words, "a marsh," and there can be no doubt it suited the place well at the start. The town has long since grown past the water. It now covers not only the island but the north and south banks and the rising ground on either side. The river forking in two adds considerably to the convenience of the place as a port, nearly doubling the quayage. Vessels of considerable size can pass up the North Channel as far as St. Patrick's Bridge, and up the South Channel to Parliament Bridge. Parnell Bridge is so constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage of vessels. The shipping trade is extensive, including cattle, pigs, butter, and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and other kinds of woollen goods, flax, and hemp. Among the steamers making regular calls, the City of Cork Steam Packet Company operates from Penrose Quay.