A Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Cork's oldest charter and Prince John

   Cork · city · Cork

   Cork is described as a borough by prescription, with its oldest charter granted by Prince John, who acted as viceroy of Ireland during Henry II's reign until the memorable 'pulling of the beards' incident. The city returns two members to Parliament.

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   a borough by prescription ; its oldest charter was granted by Prince John, who acted, until the memorable “ pulling of the beards’’ incident, as viceroy of Ireland during the reign of his father, Henry II. The city returns two members to Parliament.

   Streets, Quays and Bridges.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Cork, it is worth knowing this is a borough by prescription. Its oldest charter was granted by Prince John, who acted as viceroy of Ireland during the reign of his father, Henry II, until the memorable pulling of the beards incident. The city returns two members to Parliament.

2. Great Blasket: largest island with steep sea cliffs

   Great Blasket Island · townland · Kerry

   The Great Blasket is the largest of the rocky isles surrounding Dunmore Head, noted for its lofty and steep cliffs facing the sea. It is described as a prominent feature of the northern coast of Dingle Bay.

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   with, on the opposite side, a background of lofty hills, termi nated in the far distance by the Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet). Dunmore Head, the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, is the most westerly land in Ireland—nearer America than any point of the European shores. It is surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which, the Great Blasket, presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. These features of the northern coast of the bay will attract attention successively as we make our way westward ; Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at _ other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney (R) 129

   130 CARAGH LAKE—GLENCAR

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 52

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Great Blasket, the largest of the rocky isles surrounding Dunmore Head. It presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. Dunmore Head itself is the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, the most westerly land in Ireland, nearer America than any point of the European shores. These features of the northern coast of the bay will attract attention successively as we make our way westward. A background of lofty hills is terminated in the far distance by Brandon Mountain, 3,127 feet. Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney.

3. Kenmare Demesne mansion built 1880

   Killarney · town · Kerry · 1880

   A magnificent red-brick Tudor mansion was built in 1880 on an eminence north of the old Kenmare House, forming a conspicuous object from all parts of Lough Leane. Lord Kenmare threw the demesne open to the public, with pleasure gardens, sylvan glades, and the recently added West Park along the northern shore of the lake.

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   which, with its charming pleasure gardens and lovely sylvan glades, Lord Kenmare has, with great liberality, thrown open to the public. A magnificent mansion was built in 1880 on an eminence a little to the north of the old one. It is a redbrick Tudor structure, forming a conspicuous and pleasing

   122. KENMARE DEMESNE

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 49

   As the companion tells it

   Near Killarney, Lord Kenmare opened his demesne to the public, with its pleasure gardens and sylvan glades. A magnificent mansion was built in 1880 on an eminence north of the old Kenmare House. It is a red-brick Tudor structure, forming a conspicuous and pleasing landmark from all parts of Lough Leane.

4. Queen Victoria's route on Mangerton

   Mangerton · townland · Kerry

   The route on Mangerton, including the Devil's Punch Bowl, was originally laid out by Mr. Herbert of Muckross for Queen Victoria. It was later reopened to commemorate her Diamond Jubilee.

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   ton. It was laid out by Mr. Herbert of Muckross for Queen Victoria, was then re-closed, but was. appropriately reopened to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee.

   On page 9I we give an alternative route, not so high or so difficult of ascent as Mangerton, but from which a very fine view, similar to that just described, can be obtained. Undoubtedly, the finest descent from Mangerton is on the Kenmare side, by persevering along the path until a good

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 40

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Mangerton, there's a route up the mountain that Mr. Herbert of Muckross laid out for Queen Victoria. After her visit it was closed again, then later reopened to mark her Diamond Jubilee. The book notes an easier alternative route nearby, not as high or difficult as Mangerton, with a fine view of much the same kind. It also says the finest descent from Mangerton is on the Kenmare side, if you keep along the path.

5. Sneem village and parish of Killcrohane

   Sneem · town · Kerry

   Sneem is described as the chief village of the extensive parish of Killcrohane, prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and mountain streamlets. It contains a Roman Catholic church with a curious campanile, a Protestant church, and a comfortable inn.

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   As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left. Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the valley leading up to Coomeallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The view is obtained at the junction of another road with that along which we are driving, as we approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane, through which we have been travelling ever since we left _Darrynane. oneem 1s prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It con-

   4

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

   As the companion tells it

   As you come along the road, a grand panorama of hills opens up, separating Kerry and Cork, and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney unfolds. Perhaps the most charming view is the valley leading up to Coomeallee, a sharp precipitous mountain over two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake at its foot. The view opens at the junction of another road with the one you are driving. This brings you to Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane, through which you have been travelling ever since you left Darrynane. Sneem is prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets.

6. St. Finn Barre's Hermitage at Gougane Barra

   near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

   Gougane Barra is described as a holy lake on the Macroom to Glengariff route, associated with St. Finn Barre's Hermitage. Tourists take a side trip from the Gougane Barra cross-roads to visit both the lake and the hermitage.

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   Refreshments.—It is usual to stop at Inchigeela (Lake Hotel) for luncheon. Parties coming in the opposite direction, i.e. from Glengariff, may be advised to take luncheon with them, as the refreshments at Gougane Barra cross-roads are of a distinctly primitive kind, andit is too long to wait until the arrival of the coach at Inchigeela. The interval at Gougane Barra is, moreover, wanted for the side trip to the Lake and to St. Finn Barre’s

   Hermitage. LTHOUGH in reality an older route than the Prince of Wales route described in the last chapter, the Macroom, or “ Tourists” route, was only properly opened in 1898, by the arrangement of inclusive fares for rail and coach. ‘The road from Macroom to Glengariff has long been known to a few hardy and adventurous cyclists, but so far as tourists generally are concerned, we are safe in saying that it is almost terra incognita. We describe it here in the westward direction, as the scenery ahead is distinctly better this way ; but the route is, of course, equally available from Killarney and Glengariff, tickets being obtainable at either place, and at the principal stations of the Great Southern and Western Railway. The long chain of lakes at Inchigeela, the holy lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh, make this route a very attractive one.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 68

   As the companion tells it

   As you travel near Gougane Barra, you are passing a place long called a holy lake, on the old road between Macroom and Glengariff. The route was properly opened to tourists in 1898, when inclusive fares for rail and coach were arranged. Before that, only a few hardy cyclists knew the road. The guidebooks called it almost terra incognita to travellers generally. The stop at Gougane Barra cross-roads was used for a side trip to the lake and to St. Finn Barre's Hermitage. Travellers were warned that refreshments at the cross-roads were of a distinctly primitive kind. Parties coming from Glengariff were advised to bring luncheon with them, rather than wait for the coach to reach the Lake Hotel at Inchigeela. The route was described as best travelled westward, because the scenery ahead was distinctly better that way. Three features made it attractive: the long chain of lakes at Inchigeela, the holy lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh. The road ran through all of them, from Macroom to Glengariff, equally available from either end.

7. Valentia Island and the Knight of Kerry

   near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

   Valentia Island, about six miles long, belongs to the Knight of Kerry and most of its roughly 2,000 inhabitants live by the fisheries. It is separated from the mainland by a strait about half a mile wide.

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   The island is separated from the mainland by a strait about half a mile wide, and is about six miles in length. It belongs to the Knight of Kerry. Most of the inhabitants (about 2,000) live by the fisheries.

   Formerly, owing to the lack of accommodation, visitor's were not numerous, but the opening of the excellent Royal Hotel (under the same management as the Bay View at Waterville) has rendered possible an enjoyable sojourn in this little known and unconventional holiday resort. Bathing, boating, and first-rate sea-fishing can be had, and the cliff scenery is magnificent. As might be expected from its westerly situation, the winter climate of the island is exceptionally mild. Cars can be hired at the Hotel at fixed rates for the fine drive round the island, and for visits to various places of interest. The proprietor of the hotel can secure passes for the grounds of Glenleam and the Cable Station (p. 137).

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 54

   As the companion tells it

   Valencia Island sits off the Kerry coast, separated from the mainland by a strait about half a mile wide. It runs about 6 miles in length. The island belongs to the Knight of Kerry, and most of its roughly 2,000 inhabitants live by the fisheries. For a long time visitors were few, because there was nowhere to stay. That changed with the opening of the Royal Hotel, run under the same management as the Bay View at Waterville. Bathing, boating, and first-rate sea-fishing could be had, and the cliff scenery was described as magnificent. Given its westerly position, the winter climate is exceptionally mild. Cars could be hired at the hotel at fixed rates for the drive round the island, and for visits to places of interest. The hotel proprietor could secure passes for the grounds of Glenleam and the Cable Station.

8. Cork International Exhibition 1902

   Cork · city · Cork · 1902

   In 1902 the Cork International Exhibition was held, attracting large numbers of visitors from all parts. This is noted as a significant event in the city's history.

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   The walls were soon afterwards destroyed, and we hear little more of Cork as a military centre, though it maintained its reputation as ‘“‘ Rebel Cork ’’ until well into the nineteenth century. Mr. Parnell, it will be remembered, was member for Cork at the time of his death, and the city very properly showed its respect for his memory by calling the former Anglesea Bridge by his name. In 1902 was held the Cork International Exhibition, which attracted large numbers of visitors from all parts.

   Literary Associations.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

   As the companion tells it

   Cork kept its reputation as Rebel Cork well into the 1800s. Parnell was member for Cork at the time of his death, and the city showed its respect by naming the former Anglesea Bridge after him. Then in 1902 the Cork International Exhibition was held. It drew large numbers of visitors from all parts.

9. Curragh of Kildare camp and races

   Curragh · townland · Kildare · 1853

   The Curragh of Kildare is a vast common belonging to the Crown where a permanent camp of instruction was formed in 1853. It is also the premier horse-racing venue in Ireland, hosting races four times a year.

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   Our onward journey is through pretty country, At Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen.

   The town of Kildare is half concealed from the railway by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower, 132 feet high. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at a cost of £12,000.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Curragh, you have the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh is also the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and four times a year it is the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen. Newbridge serves as the station for the Curragh. The Hill of Allen rises to a height of 300 feet from the Bog of Allen nearby. The town of Kildare itself is half concealed from the railway by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower, 132 feet high. The ancient Cathedral there has recently been restored at a cost of £12,000.

10. Dinish Island: cottage and bridge linking to Brickeen

    near Dinish Island · townland · Kerry

    The road runs over Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, which is joined to Dinish Island by another bridge. On Dinish Island a neat cottage offers visitors tea and light refreshments, and a nearby path leads to views of Old Weir Bridge and the Meeting of the Waters.

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    Quitting the demesne and returning to our car, we proceed through the peninsula of Muckross. The road now runs over Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, which is joined to Dinish Island by another bridge. On Dinish Island is a neat Cottage, where visitors can obtain tea and light refreshments. Here we leave the car to follow on foot a little path by the cottage, which brings us to a spot where can be obtained a view of Old Weir Bridge and the famous “ Meeting of the Waters.”

    Mounting once more, we still keep Torc Lake on the lef until we reach the:main road leading to the Long Range and the Upper Lake. Do not omit to ask the driver to

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 37

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Dinish Island, the road crosses Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, and from there a second bridge joins Dinish Island itself. There's a neat cottage on Dinish Island where visitors can get tea and light refreshments. A little path by the cottage leads on foot to a spot with a view of Old Weir Bridge and the famous "Meeting of the Waters."

11. Fitzgerald Park and the 1902-3 Exhibition site

    near Fitzgerald Park · street · Cork · 1902–1903

    Ground north of the Mardyke hosted the Cork International Exhibition of 1902-3 and was converted into a public park named for Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Lord Mayor during the exhibition.

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    But the encroachments of the builder have robbed the Mardyke of much of its charm, and it cannot for a moment compare with the Marina, at the other end of the city (see p- 42). The ground to the north formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition, 1902—3, and has now been converted into a public park, known as Fitzgerald Park, in honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition.

    On the other side of the North River, and reached by ferry or by the Wellington Bridge, near the end of the Mardyke, is the district of—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Fitzgerald Park in Cork, the ground to the north of the Mardyke once held the Cork International Exhibition, 1902 to 1903. After the exhibition closed, the ground was turned into a public park, called Fitzgerald Park, in honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, who was Lord Mayor at the time of the exhibition. The book notes that building had already taken much of the old charm from the Mardyke itself, and that it could not compare with the Marina at the other end of the city.

12. Grey (Hore) Abbey, Cashel

    Hore Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Tipperary · 1278

    The Grey, or Hore, Abbey was founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel, in 1278. It is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from the Rock of Cashel, in full view of it.

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    of the Rock are among the finest in the country. The edifice was benevolently burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare, “because he thought the archbishop was within!” This candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the Cathedral, there are on the rock Cormac’s Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, go feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from—but in full view of — thes Rock.

    Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (vef. voom), where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station, we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muek extending east and west in front of us.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    A monastery ruin, Grey Abbey, also called Hore Abbey. It was founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel, in 1278, and is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from the Rock of Cashel, in full view of it. The views from the Rock are among the finest in the country. The Rock holds other ancient buildings besides the cathedral. Cormac's Chapel was built there in 1127. There is the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, 90 feet high. The cathedral was benevolently burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare. His candid explanation was that he did it "because he thought the archbishop was within." Curiously enough, that very explanation gained him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland.

13. Hop Island named from a dancing family

    near Hop Island · townland · Cork

    Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to derive its name from the family that once owned it, who were dancing teachers in Cork. This folk etymology links the placename to a local profession.

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    We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for _ the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Teniperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Passage West,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Hop Island, there is an island whose name comes from people rather than place. Hop Island, near Rochestown station, is said to have got its name from the family who once owned it. They taught dancing in Cork. That is the story handed down, a folk explanation that links the island to a trade, a household of dancing teachers whose name or whose habit became the name of the land.

14. Lough Guitane: lovely mountain lake with three islands

    near Lough Guitane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    About a mile along the ascent of Mangerton, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Guitane, a considerably large and singularly lovely lake with three small islands on it. The mountain becomes increasingly bleak and rugged beyond, with views growing in grandeur with every foot of elevation.

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    and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path: It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top oa foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Guittane, a considerable lake, singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing, we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil’s Punch Bowl. It is atarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil’s Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom—at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Koumaare MV L772.

    By the time the ordnance mark on the summit is in sigtit, the path becomes less difficult, for we tread on a peaty soil. At the mound we are 2,756 feet above the sea, and a glorious panorama rewards our exertions. Away to the east, the Boggerah Mountains and the Paps loom cloud-like and blue ; far on the north, the river Shannon is just discernible, and nearer rise the Slieve Miskish Mountains; on the west we view the rocky ranges of Iveragh, Dingle Bay and the Kenmare Fiord ; southward we see the distant Caha Mountains that shadow Glengariff and rise over Bantry Bay. But nearer there are greater charms of scenery, for the three lakes lie at our feet, and we overlook their fairy islands. The town seems but a stone’s-throw away, and we can trace the roads that converge to it for many a mile into the country. Like silver threads, we see the streams and rivers running amongst verdant meadows, with the gem-like sheen of the arbutus bowers that gird the glancing lakes; higher, is a darker zone of tasselled pines. The Macgillycuddy Reeks stand out in all their magnificence, Carran Tual like a monarch proudly overtopping all. Nearer yet, the Purple Mountain and the Tomies rear their peaks ; and closer still are the Drooping Mountain and Tore. .

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Guitane is a considerable lake in Kerry, singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The road passes near it on the ascent of Mangerton. About a mile along the climb, after a stream gives place to a mere path, you come in sight of the lake. The mountain becomes bleak and rugged beyond it, but as the climb goes on, the views increase in grandeur with every foot of elevation. The three small islands sit on the water, and the lake marks a turning point in the ascent, where the ground grows steeper and more bare. The passage that records this is part of a guide for tourists leaving their ponies at the stream and continuing on foot. Beyond Lough Guitane the route leads to a curious tarn called the Devil's Punch Bowl, almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, looking almost as black as ink from the overhanging steeps. The water is cold as ice and unrippled, as if frozen. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream flowing out. The echo rings round and round, bounding from rock to rock. The Devil's Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom, at least none that has ever been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare. The guide notes all this beyond the lake, where the mountain goes on rising to 2,756 feet and a panorama opens east to the Boggerah Mountains and the Paps, north to the river Shannon, west to Iveragh and Dingle Bay, and south to the Caha Mountains over Glengariff and Bantry Bay.

15. Lough of Cork and Croker's Fairy Legends

    The Lough · electoral division · Cork

    The Lough of Cork, fed by streams from the surrounding hills, is notable as the scene of one of the most remarkable of Crofton Croker's Fairy Legends. It is a considerable sheet of water situated just off the Bandon Road.

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    There is not much to interest visitors in the southern portion of the city, but some may be inclined to see the Lough of Cork (Lough-na-famog), just off the Bandon Road. It is a considerable sheet of water, fed by streams from the surrounding hills, and is interesting as the scene of one of the most remarkable of Crofton Croker’s Fairy Legends.

    y CORK 4I

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through The Lough, a part of Cork with a considerable sheet of water called the Lough of Cork, or Lough-na-famog. It sits just off the Bandon Road, fed by streams from the surrounding hills. It is the scene of one of the most remarkable of Crofton Croker's Fairy Legends.

16. Mallow spa and the Bath of Ireland

    Mallow · town · Cork

    Mallow, on the banks of the Cork Blackwater, was once known as the Bath of Ireland and was a popular resort for invalids who came to drink the waters of its spa. Its mineral waters are very similar to those of Clifton.

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    Leaving Buttevant and continuing our ‘southward course, we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important railway junction (vef. yoom), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the convenience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    Mallow sits on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. At one time it was known as the Bath of Ireland. Invalids and others came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton. The river offered excellent fishing, and the convenience of railway transit made the town a favourite centre for anglers. It remains a noted town and an important railway junction.

17. Monkstown Church, first Protestant worship after Reformation

    Monkstown · townland · Cork

    Monkstown Church is an Early English, ivy-grown structure standing on a picturesque elevation, said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation.

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    found when the work was done that the house had only cost her a groat. Her husband returned in due course, and seems to have appraised his treasure of a wife at her proper value, though the chronicler tells us only that they were eventually interred together in their family vault, in the burial-ground of the ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn, adjoining the castle. Monkstown Church, an Early English, ivy-grown structure, standing on a picturesque elevation, is said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation.

    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for tine, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, vid Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Monkstown, there is a church standing on a picturesque elevation. It is an Early English structure, grown over with ivy. It is said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation. Not much more is recorded about it than that. The same passage mentions a ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn nearby, adjoining a castle, where a husband and wife were eventually interred together in their family vault. She had found, when the work was done, that the house had only cost her a groat. Her husband returned in due course, and seems to have appraised his treasure of a wife at her proper value. The chronicler tells us only that they were buried together in that vault at Temple-en-Bryn. The passage goes on to describe the railway, which until recently ended at Monkstown, though the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and then the harbour route by steamer past White's Point, Haulbowline Island, Rocky Island, and Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland. But the church itself, ivy-grown on its elevation, holds its place in the record as the first Protestant place of worship put up in this neighbourhood after the Reformation.

18. Staigue Fort near Sneem

    Staigue · townland · Kerry

    Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is described as an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair, a pre-Christian stone fortification, representing one of the key antiquities of Kerry.

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    Archzology.—Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character—so long undeciphered—and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique - example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 1838-8.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Staigue stands Staigue Fort, near Sneem, an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These stone fortifications are pre-Christian, raised before the faith came to this part of Ireland. Kerry is rich in such antiquities. Cromlechs and standing stones, called gallauns, are scattered through the countryside, some carrying writing in the Ogham character, long undeciphered. The Bishop of Limerick gathered Ogham stones to his grounds at Parknasilla, where they may still be seen. Early Christian and later remains are found at Aghadoe and elsewhere. Many holy places, islands and wells remain objects of pilgrimage or much-desired burial-places.

19. Sugarloaf mountain above Glengariff

    Sugarloaf · hill or hills · Kerry

    The Sugarloaf is a prominent height to the right of the descent towards Glengariff, noted as the most prominent feature in a panoramic view of the mountains of Kerry visible from a hilltop between Kenmare and Glengariff.

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    the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, towards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out Lord Bantry’s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right, and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.

    Note Contributed by Correspondent (we have not personally tested this divergence. Ep.).—Between Kenmare and Glengariff is the best mountain view in the south of Ireland, but as it lies apart from the coach-road it is apt to be overlooked. Seven and a half miles trom Kenmare the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. If time permits, the tourist would do well to dismount and take the road which leads to the left, following it until it comes, by rather a bad surface, to the very top of the hill which divides the Kenmare valley from the Glengariff valley. Excepting the last portion— about one hundred yards—the road is a gentle incline and is quite negotiable by easy walkers. From the top is the best view of the whole of the mountains of Kerry—the Sugarloaf being most prominent. They lie, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple, at one’s feet. Southward is beautiful Glengariff—the village being three miles of rather hard descent from the summit, the whole distance from the Chapel to Glengariff being about 4? miles. The walker will miss portions of the coach-road, especially that which includes the long tunnel, but he will be more than repaid by one of the best views of mountain, valley and sea which can be obtained anywhere. In actual distance, this road is somewhat shorter than the coach route (say 124+ miles against 18 miles).

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 59

    As the companion tells it

    The Sugarloaf is a hill you pass near on the descent towards Glengariff. It stands as the prominent height on the descent where the mountains group about the head of Bantry Bay, with great valleys stretching away on either hand and here and there a mountain tarn. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the village of Glengariff lies far below, almost buried in foliage. The actual distance to the Glen is only 5 or 6 miles, but the steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitate a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. Lord Bantry's Shooting Lodge stands some distance away, and ahead lies the noble expanse of Bantry Bay and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff. There is a view of the Sugarloaf that most travellers miss. Between Kenmare and Glengariff is what a correspondent called the best mountain view in the south of Ireland, but it lies apart from the coach road and is apt to be overlooked. 7 and a half miles from Kenmare the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. A road leads from there to the top of the hill which divides the Kenmare valley from the Glengariff valley. From the top is the best view of the whole of the mountains of Kerry, the Sugarloaf being most prominent. They lie, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple, at one's feet. Southward is beautiful Glengariff, the village being 3 miles of rather hard descent from the summit. The whole distance from the chapel to Glengariff is about 4 miles. The walker will miss portions of the coach road, especially the long tunnel, but will be more than repaid by one of the best views of mountain, valley and sea which can be obtained anywhere.

20. Templenakilla ruined church near Waterville

    Templenakilla · ecclesiastical site · Kerry

    About a mile beyond Coomakista Pass on the road south from Waterville stands the ruined Templenakilla Church, passed on the left of the route towards Derrynane.

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    Leaving Waterville, and crossing the bridge at its southern end, we enter on the most interesting section of the drive. Our road at first winds upwards, till at Coomakista Pass it is 700 feet above the sea. We get charming views of the mountains on the left, and of the almost circular bay, with its numberless islands, on the right. In about a mile we pass, on the left, the ruined Templenakilla Church. Driving on for about five miles, our road descends to the sea on the shore of Derrynane Bay, a small inlet of the Atlantic separated from Ballinskelligs Bay by Hog’s Head and from the Kenmare estuary by Lamb Head, the most southerly cape of county Kerry. In Derrynane Bay are Scariff Island and many other rocky islets. On our right, close to the road leading to Caherdaniel, is a circular fort in remarkably good preservation, On the shore of the bay is—

    Derrynane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    A ruined church, Templenakilla, stands about a mile beyond Coomakista Pass, 700 feet above the sea. The pass is reached by a route from Waterville that crosses a bridge at its southern end and winds upwards. From the pass, mountains rise on one side and an almost circular bay with numberless islands lies on the other. Beyond the church, the route descends for about five miles to the shore of Derrynane Bay, a small inlet of the Atlantic. Derrynane Bay is separated from Ballinskelligs Bay by Hog's Head and from the Kenmare estuary by Lamb Head, the most southerly cape of county Kerry. In Derrynane Bay are Scariff Island and many other rocky islets. Close to the route leading to Caherdaniel, a circular fort stands in remarkably good preservation. On the shore of the bay is Derrynane.

21. The Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh

    near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

    Inland from Cork are notable natural landscapes including the pretty lakes of Inchigeela and the rugged Pass of Keimaneigh, which is compared to the Khyber Pass.

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    HE possibilities of Cork as a tourist centre seem hardly yet to be realised. The city contains some noble buildings, and to the student of race and manners is full of interest. But to tourists generally the slums immediately off the main streets and the general appearance of poverty are apt to act as deterrents. A stay of a day or two is by most people considered sufficient. An injustice is thus done to some of the most beautiful scenery in the south of Ireland. The surroundings of Cork are beyond all question lovely, though there may be more than one opinion as to the city itself. Within easy reach are the loughs and creeks and pretty islands of the Harbour ; the lower reaches of the Rhinelike Blackwater; and all the puzzling, indented coast-line from Youghal to Mizen Head. Inland there are Blarney and Macroom, the pretty lakes of Inchigeela, and the Khyberlike Pass of Keimaneigh, to say nothing of numberless beauty spots and view points known to few but natives, and rarely visited even by them. We are not exaggerating in saying that a week or fortnight can very well be spent in Cork, with a trip to a fresh place of interest every day. The hotel accommodation is gocd, though the economically-minded tourist is likely to deplore the absence of reliable second-rate establishments. In dry weather the city is somewhat dusty, in wet weather it is undeniably muddy, but the streets are on the whole well kept and clean, and the cheap cars and convenient service of trams make locomotion an easy matter. The streets are lighted by electricity.

    Before proceeding to a detailed description of the city, it may be well to insert a few items of

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Keimaneigh there is a pass that one old guidebook compared to the Khyber. It calls it the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh, and lists it among the inland sights of Cork, alongside Blarney, Macroom, and the pretty lakes of Inchigeela. The guidebook says the possibilities of Cork as a tourist centre seem hardly yet realised. The city contains some noble buildings, and to the student of race and manners is full of interest. But the slums immediately off the main streets and the general appearance of poverty are apt to act as deterrents. Most people consider a stay of a day or two sufficient. An injustice is thus done, the book says, to some of the most beautiful scenery in the south of Ireland. The surroundings of Cork are "beyond all question lovely," though there may be more than one opinion as to the city itself. Within easy reach are the loughs and creeks and pretty islands of the Harbour, the lower reaches of the Rhine-like Blackwater, and all the puzzling, indented coastline from Youghal to Mizen Head. Inland there are Blarney and Macroom, the lakes of Inchigeela, and this pass, to say nothing of numberless beauty spots and viewpoints known to few but natives, and rarely visited even by them. The book says a week or fortnight can very well be spent in Cork, with a trip to a fresh place of interest every day.

22. Crosshaven village and railway

    Crosshaven · town · Cork

    Crosshaven is a small village with a large hotel, likened to Cork as Brighton is to London. A new railway from Monkstown brings visitors through lovely country past Drake's Pool and Carrigaline Castle.

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    Crosshaven is as yet only a small village with a large hotel. Now that the new railway adds its quota of pleasure-seekers to those brought by the steamers, the small village is likely to become a large one, and the large hotel larger still. The railway from Monkstown to Crosshaven brings one through lovely country, passing Drake’s Pool and Carrigaline Castle. Though itself somewhat sheltered, and denied an ocean view, Crosshaven is within easy distance of Church Bay and Myrtleville Bay on the coast. What Brighton is to London, Crosshaven is to*Cork, and during the summer the accommodation of the place is sometimes severely taxed. Combined railway and hotel tickets are issued, and a week-end (Saturday to Monday) can be spent at the Crosshaven Hotel for 18/6, including fare from and to Cork. A modern Church stands close to the village. There are a number of pretty walks in the locality, the deep-set, tree-shadowed lanes, with their numerous twists and turns, reminding one of the famous Jersey lanes.

    On the hill above Crosshaven stands the desolate and forsaken ruin of Templebrady Church, a prominent object both from sea and harbour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Crosshaven is a village you pass through on this road. It is as yet only a small village, though it has a large hotel. A new railway from Monkstown brings pleasure-seekers to add to those brought by the steamers, and the village is likely to become a large one. The railway runs through lovely country, passing Drake's Pool and Carrigaline Castle. Crosshaven is somewhat sheltered and denied an ocean view, though Church Bay and Myrtleville Bay are within easy distance. What Brighton is to London, Crosshaven is to Cork. In summer the accommodation is sometimes severely taxed. Combined railway and hotel tickets are issued, and a weekend at the Crosshaven Hotel costs 18 shillings and 6 pence, including fare from and to Cork. A modern church stands close to the village. There are pretty walks, the deep-set, tree-shadowed lanes with their twists and turns reminding one of the Jersey lanes. On the hill above Crosshaven stands the desolate and forsaken ruin of Templebrady Church, a prominent object both from sea and harbour.

23. Lickeen House: picturesque lakeside setting

    Lickeen · townland · Kerry

    Lickeen House, situated at the end of Caragh Lake, is described as rivaling the picturesque part of the Trossachs on a smaller scale. Its surroundings feature moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water.

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    “ Here,’ it has been well said, “‘ one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of varying height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which we entered. About two and a half hours’ stay is allowed here, and the cars take us to the boat at Blackstones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving, the visitor may walk by the river along the fisherman’s path, passing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves ot birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale—the same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere meets the eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station, some very fine cliffs and headlands are passed, extending all along the lake on the east side, and the scenery is very varied and beautiful as we approach the end of our journey.

    W. Lawrence,| [Dublin.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Lickeen House, at the end of Caragh Lake. The place has been compared to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands sits near the centre of a great circle, seven or eight miles across, hemmed in by mountains and nearly cut off from the outer world. Visitors can walk by the river along the fisherman's path, passing rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves of birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House are said to rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale. The same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water meets the eye everywhere. Rowing down the lake toward Caragh railway station, you pass fine cliffs and headlands extending along the east side, and the scenery grows varied and beautiful as the journey nears its end.

24. Mount Brandon: towering backdrop of Dingle Bay

    Brandon Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Kerry

    Brandon Mountain, at 3,127 feet, is a prominent landmark visible from multiple points along the journey around Dingle Bay. It terminates the background of lofty hills on the opposite side of the bay and remains much in evidence near Killorglin.

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    with, on the opposite side, a background of lofty hills, termi nated in the far distance by the Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet). Dunmore Head, the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, is the most westerly land in Ireland—nearer America than any point of the European shores. It is surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which, the Great Blasket, presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. These features of the northern coast of the bay will attract attention successively as we make our way westward ; Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at _ other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney (R) 129

    130 CARAGH LAKE—GLENCAR

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel around Dingle Bay, the far hills on the opposite shore rise into a lofty backdrop, ended in the distance by Brandon Mountain, standing 3,127 feet high. It is a landmark that stays with the journey. Brandon is much in evidence leaving Killorglin, and it holds its place in the view at other points along the road. The mountain dominates the northern shore of the bay, the highest point in a long line of hills that frame the water from across the way.

25. Windy Gap view of Macgillycuddy's Reeks and Gap of Dunloe

    Windy Gap · pass · Kerry

    At Windy Gap, a fine view opens northward of Macgillycuddy's Reeks, with the prominent hollow of the Gap of Dunloe clearly visible. Loosecaunaugh Lough, a mile-long sheet of water nearby, marks the half-way stage on the coach route to Kenmare.

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    At Windy Gap we have a fine view northward of Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, the prominent hollow so conspicuous being the Gap of Dunloe. Loosecaunaugh Lough, a mile-long sheet of water, marks the half-way stage to Kenmare, and we pull

    \

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 58

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Windy Gap, a fine view opens northward of Macgillycuddy's Reeks, with the prominent hollow of the Gap of Dunloe standing conspicuous. Loosecaunaugh Lough, a mile-long sheet of water, marks the half-way stage on the coach route to Kenmare.

26. Church Bay cliffs and Templebrady Fort

    Church Bay · bay · Cork

    Church Bay is a delightful unspoilt spot with lofty cliffs, sheltered bathing nooks, and soft air. Nearby stands the powerful Templebrady Fort, recently constructed to command the liner waterway to and from America.

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    spot with lofty cliffs and sheltered bathing nooks. The air _ is noticeably soft and balmy. In due time hotels and boarding houses will spring up on the best parts of the cliff, but at present the spot is quite unspoilt—even the bathing arrangements are charmingly primitive. A week-end (Saturday to Monday) can be spent at the Church Bay Hotel for 16/-, including first-class fare from and to Cork. Not far from. Church Bay is the powerful Templebrady Fort, recently constructed to command the waterway used by the liners passing to and from America.

    The coast can be followed on one side round to Camden

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Church Bay is a delightful unspoilt spot, with lofty cliffs and sheltered bathing nooks. The air is noticeably soft and balmy. Hotels and boarding houses will in time spring up on the best parts of the cliff, but for now the place is quite unspoilt, and even the bathing arrangements are charmingly primitive. A weekend at the Church Bay Hotel, Saturday to Monday, costs 16 shillings, including first-class fare to and from Cork. Not far from Church Bay stands the powerful Templebrady Fort, recently constructed to command the waterway used by the liners passing to and from America.

27. Ascent of the Sugarloaf above Bantry Bay

    Sugarloaf Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Cork

    The Sugarloaf mountain, 1,887 feet high, lies about seven miles from the Eccles Hotel at Glengariff and requires a full day's excursion including lunch. The south-eastern slope ascent yields a fine view of the whole extent of Bantry Bay.

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    The mountaineer may care to make the ascent of the Sugarloaf (1,887 feet). The distance is about seven miles from the Eccles Hotel, but a whole day will be required and lunch

    to the rightand ascend the south-eastern slope of the mountain. A fine view is gained of the whole extent of Bantry Bay.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 62

    As the companion tells it

    The Sugarloaf stands 1,887 feet high. The mountaineer could make the ascent from Glengariff's Eccles Hotel, about seven miles away, but a full day was needed and lunch carried along. You climb the south-eastern slope and gain a fine view of the whole extent of Bantry Bay.

28. Ballycotton Bay and Lighthouse

    Ballycotton · town · Cork

    Ballycotton is a pleasant, unsophisticated spot with wild cliffs to the west and an excellent harbour with massive piers. Its lighthouse stands on a tiny island separated from the town by a narrow channel.

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    Ballycotton lies right out of the beaten track of the tourist, and is not known as it deserves to be. Cork people have discovered it, however, and make good use of their knowledge, judging by the villas that are springing up. It is a pleasant, unsophisticated spot, where a family may rusticate with great content and ease. The cliffs to the west are wild and bold, and the sea has scooped out little bays here and there for the very purpose of providing conveniences for bathers. At low tide long stretches of seaweed-covered rock are exposed. Persons who take the cliff paths may be advised not to go too near the edge. There is an excellent harbour, with massive piers running round it, though it seems all too large and expensive for the comparatively few fishing vessels and yachts that shelter here. The Lighthouse stands on a tiny island, separated from the town by a narrow channel. Lighthouses lend themselves to picture-making, and we have rarely seen one better adapted to the purpose than this, though the amateur daubs which adorn the hotels hardly do it justice. To the east can be seen the cliffs that mark the entrance to Youghal Harbour.

    IlI.—TO BLARNEY CASTLE.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Ballycotton sits out of the beaten track of the tourist and is not known as it deserves to be. Cork people have discovered it, though, and make good use of their knowledge, judging by the villas springing up. It is a pleasant, unsophisticated spot, where a family may rusticate with great content and ease. The cliffs to the west are wild and bold, and the sea has scooped out little bays here and there, providing conveniences for bathers. At low tide long stretches of seaweed-covered rock are exposed. Those who take the cliff paths may be advised not to go too near the edge. There is an excellent harbour, with massive piers running round it, though it seems all too large and expensive for the comparatively few fishing vessels and yachts that shelter here. The lighthouse stands on a tiny island, separated from the town by a narrow channel. Lighthouses lend themselves to picture-making, and this one is better adapted to the purpose than most, though the amateur daubs which adorn the hotels hardly do it justice. To the east can be seen the cliffs that mark the entrance to Youghal Harbour.

29. Circular fort near Caherdaniel

    Caherdaniel · townland · Kerry

    Close to the road leading to Caherdaniel, on the shore of Derrynane Bay, stands a circular fort in remarkably good preservation. A small stone fort also exists near the hamlet of Caherdaniel itself.

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    Leaving Waterville, and crossing the bridge at its southern end, we enter on the most interesting section of the drive. Our road at first winds upwards, till at Coomakista Pass it is 700 feet above the sea. We get charming views of the mountains on the left, and of the almost circular bay, with its numberless islands, on the right. In about a mile we pass, on the left, the ruined Templenakilla Church. Driving on for about five miles, our road descends to the sea on the shore of Derrynane Bay, a small inlet of the Atlantic separated from Ballinskelligs Bay by Hog’s Head and from the Kenmare estuary by Lamb Head, the most southerly cape of county Kerry. In Derrynane Bay are Scariff Island and many other rocky islets. On our right, close to the road leading to Caherdaniel, is a circular fort in remarkably good preservation, On the shore of the bay is—

    Derrynane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Caherdaniel there is a circular fort in remarkably good preservation. The road comes from Waterville, crossing the bridge at its southern end and winding upwards to Coomakista Pass, 700 feet above the sea. Mountains rise to one side, and an almost circular bay with numberless islands opens to the other. About a mile along stands the ruined Templenakilla Church. The road then descends for about five miles to the shore of Derrynane Bay, a small inlet of the Atlantic, separated from Ballinskelligs Bay by Hog's Head and from the Kenmare estuary by Lamb Head, the most southerly cape of county Kerry. Scariff Island and many other rocky islets lie in the bay. The fort stands close to the road, on the shore of the bay.

30. Eagle Island — Former Haunt of Eagles

    near Eagle Island · townland · Mayo

    Eagle Island on the Upper Lake is reputed to have been frequented by eagles at one time. Oak and Juniper Islands are named for their covering woods, and Arbutus Island for the luxuriant arbutus shrub.

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    MacCarthy More’s Island is one of the first islands passed. It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne’s Island, where may be had some of the finest’ views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman’s Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Torc Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed—the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters. We soon reach—

    116 THE EAGLESVNESe The Eagles’ Nest,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 47

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Eagle Island, the land takes its name from birds that once came here. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. The guidebook does not say how many, or when they left, only that they were here. Other islands near the lake carry their own names from what grows on them. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. MacCarthy More's Island comes first, luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then Ronayne's Island, where some of the finest views of the lake may be had. Colman's Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. There is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form there, and the guide will help you trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef, and many other things.

31. Glacial origins of Lough Coomanassig

    Lough Coomanassig · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Coomanassig, situated 1,500 feet above sea level in Kerry, is a glacial tarn whose basin was hollowed out by a glacier. A moraine lower down blocked the valley, forming a second tarn known as the eagle's lough.

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    from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one. This basin was hollowed out by a glacier; lower down the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn—the eagle’s lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks—one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone. Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams. Climate.—The mean temperature of Kerry and part of Cork is 51°, of the extreme south-west 52°. The rainfall is from 40 to 50 inches, but in the south-west it is over 50 and under 75 inches—this is exceeded in parts of Wales, Scotland and the Lake District in England. Winter and summer temperature are very equable, and the air pure. June and September are the driest months in Ireland. Zoology.—Ked deer are now found wild only at Killarney. Elk were once there. The zoology of the Kerry district is specially interesting, both fauna and flora having apparently a Spanish or Portuguese origin, hence they are called Lusttanian—the former name of the Roman province now Portugal. A black slug with yellow spots is found only in the south-west of Ireland and Portugal—nowhere else in the world. Other molluscs have a similar origin, but two are peculiar to Kenmare. Other very rare creatures may be found in this region, a dark wood-mouse, etc. But the district also contains North American and Arctic forms of life —fresh-water sponge, certain beetles, butterflies, etc. The great wolf spider, the large grasshopper, and the clear-wing moth are all found here, and many rare insects. Botany.—Here also a Lusitanian origin may be seen in many specimens, for Mediterranean or Pyrenean flowering plants are found, as well as some American. Some of the semi-tropical mosses, etc., are found nowhere else in Europe, possibly the Gulf Stream has carried them over. It is

    182 SCIENCE NOTES -

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Coomanassig is a glacial lake in Kerry, sitting 1,500 feet above sea level. Its basin was hollowed out by a glacier. Lower down the valley, a moraine blocked the way, and that formed a second tarn, known as the eagle's lough. The ice that carved this landscape did similar work across Kerry. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. The passage of glaciers across this country shows its handiwork in rounded and polished limestone, and in perched blocks carried and dropped by the ice. One near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare, a huge block of Old Red Sandstone rests on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone rests on Old Red Sandstone. These are the signs of the same forces that shaped this lake. The glacier scooped out the basin, and the moraine it left behind dammed the valley below, creating the eagle's lough. Both lakes are glacial tarns, shaped by ice that moved through Kerry and left its mark on the rock. The rounded limestone, the perched blocks, the great stones resting where the ice deposited them, all belong to the same story. The lakes of Killarney, too, owe their depth to ice, which helped to deepen them if not to form them entirely.

32. Haulbowline Island naval dockyard

    near Haulbowline Island · townland · Cork

    Haulbowline Island is a most important naval dockyard and military station, with extensive works still in progress. Rocky Island to the south is principally used for ammunition storage.

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    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for tine, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, vid Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Haulbowline Island, there is a place worth knowing about. Haulbowline is described as a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works were still in progress at the time of writing. The island sits in the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island itself, and travellers passing by steamer could get an excellent view of it. You could even call at its pier, if the tide permitted, though an order had to be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands could be visited. To the south, Rocky Island was principally used for the storage of ammunition. Further south still lies Spike Island, also called Fort Westmoreland, the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works there were executed by convict labour. The guide notes that Spike Island is seen to better advantage after leaving Queenstown. The railway extension to Crosshaven was newly complete, but many passengers still preferred to travel by steamer via Queenstown, for the chance to see the harbour.

33. James Butler memorial fountain at Waterville

    Waterville · townland · Kerry

    A handsome stone fountain near the Bay View Hotel in Waterville was erected to the memory of James Butler. Waterville stands on a narrow isthmus between Ballinskelligs Bay and Lough Currane and is much resorted to by anglers.

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    Hoiels.— Bay View, Butler’s Arms, Great Southern, etc. Sees est and one man, 1s. hour!*5s. day. Two men, 2s. hour, 10s. The village, which bids fair shortly to become a town, is largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the Jough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbourhood. Fishing is, for the most part, free ; salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place (close to the Bay View Hotel) is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. Here is the junction with another road which comes directly through the mountains from Killarney, thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attractive Glencar on the way (see p. 130). The village is a tempting place of sojourn, commanding magnificent views of the Atlantic on the one hand, and of the mountains on the other ; and it is within three minutes’ walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. Here, also, the Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables—the latest completed in 1894; and their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be inspected on application, Iwo other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. Moreover, at Ballinskelligs, across the bay, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks of the little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries into the bay the surplus water of—

    Lough Currane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Waterville, there is a handsome stone fountain put up to the memory of James Butler. It stands close to the Bay View Hotel, and the book says it is the first thing to catch your eye coming into the place. Waterville sits on a narrow strip of land, with the Atlantic on one side and the mountains on the other, and the village is within three minutes' walk of Lough Currane. Anglers come here in numbers. They find good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes nearby. Fishing is for the most part free, and salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The village is clustered along the banks of a little river, only a few hundred yards long, that carries the surplus water of Lough Currane into the bay. There is a junction here with another road that comes through the mountains from Killarney, thirty-seven miles to the north-east, passing Glencar on the way. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. The Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables here, the latest completed in 1894. Their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms may be inspected on application. Two other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. And across the bay at Ballinskelligs, directly opposite, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen.

34. Kilmallock ruins - the Baalbec of Ireland

    Kilmallock · town · Limerick

    Kilmallock is noted for numerous ruins including old castles, churches, and spacious mansions that attest its former magnificence. These remains have earned it the name 'the Baalbec of Ireland.'

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    Kilmallock is noted for its numerous ruins—old castles, churches and spacious mansions, which attest its former magnificence, and have given it the name of the Baalbec of Ireland.

    At Charleville, the direct line from Cork to Limerick leaves the main line of the system.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    Kilmallock carries the remains of a grander time. Old castles, churches and spacious mansions stand among its ruins, and people have called it the Baalbec of Ireland for what those broken walls still say about its former magnificence.

35. Lakes of Inchigeelagh on the Macroom Route

    Inchigeelagh · townland · Cork

    Inchigeelagh features a long chain of lakes along the route between Macroom and Glengariff. This landscape adds to the scenic attractiveness of the tourist journey, where travellers typically stop at the Lake Hotel for luncheon.

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    Hermitage. LTHOUGH in reality an older route than the Prince of Wales route described in the last chapter, the Macroom, or “ Tourists” route, was only properly opened in 1898, by the arrangement of inclusive fares for rail and coach. ‘The road from Macroom to Glengariff has long been known to a few hardy and adventurous cyclists, but so far as tourists generally are concerned, we are safe in saying that it is almost terra incognita. We describe it here in the westward direction, as the scenery ahead is distinctly better this way ; but the route is, of course, equally available from Killarney and Glengariff, tickets being obtainable at either place, and at the principal stations of the Great Southern and Western Railway. The long chain of lakes at Inchigeela, the holy lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh, make this route a very attractive one.

    The Capwell station at Cork is in the southern part of the city (see plan), about a mile from St. Patrick’s Bridge. The railway journey presents some pretty pastoral scenery, but is chiefly interesting on account of the numerous ruined castles on either side.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Inchigeelagh, the road from Macroom to Glengariff passes a long chain of lakes. This is the Macroom route, also called the Tourists' route. Though older than the Prince of Wales route, it was only properly opened in 1898, when inclusive fares for rail and coach were arranged. Before that, the road had long been known to a few hardy and adventurous cyclists, but to tourists generally it was, in the words of the guide, "almost terra incognita." The long chain of lakes here, the holy lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh make this route a very attractive one. Travellers on this route typically stop at the Lake Hotel for luncheon. The guide describes the route westward, because the scenery ahead is distinctly better that way, though tickets are equally available from Killarney and Glengariff, and at the principal stations of the Great Southern and Western Railway. The railway journey from Cork presents pretty pastoral scenery, but is chiefly interesting for the numerous ruined castles on either side.

36. North Abbey, Youghal, founded by the FitzGeralds

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1269

    North Abbey was founded by a Fitzgerald in 1269 and stood just beyond the town walls at the north end of Main Street. Today only the west gable of the church and a few other fragments survive.

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    Just beyond the town walls, at the north end of Main Street, are the west gable of the church and a few other fragments of North Abbey, founded by a Fitzgerald in 1269.

    From Youghal the tourist can take the half-hourly ferry and proceed to Ardmore (6 miles), with its interesting ecclesiastical remains (see our Guide to Waterford, etc.).

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Youghal holds the remains of North Abbey, founded by a Fitzgerald in 1269. It stood just beyond the town walls, at the north end of Main Street. Today only the west gable of the church and a few other fragments survive.

37. Paul Jones and Valentia harbours

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    The notorious American Commander Paul Jones often availed himself of the protection afforded by the harbours and creeks near Valentia Island. This was in the years after Cromwell's fortifications were established.

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    island and its harbour for the purposes of concealment. In later years, the notorious American Commander Paul Jones often availed himself of the protection afforded by the harbours and creeks hereabouts. At Glenleam, the seat of the Knight of Kerry, are some gigantic fuchsias, one said to be the largest in the world. ‘The climate is so mild that the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 54

    As the companion tells it

    Valentia Island's harbours and creeks gave concealment to the notorious American Commander Paul Jones, who often availed himself of their protection. At Glenleam, the seat of the Knight of Kerry, grow gigantic fuchsias, one said to be the largest in the world. The climate is so mild.

38. Ross Castle — Landing Point on the Lower Lake

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    After crossing the Lower Lake from Glena Bay, visitors land at a quay near Ross Castle, where conveyances wait to take them to their hotel. Ross Castle serves as a key departure point for the Killarney lakes tour.

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    Rowing up the lovely strait which separates Brigden Island from the Muckross demesne, and then entering Glena Bay, we cross the Lower Lake, and land at the quay near Ross Castle, where conveyances wait to take us to our hotel. .

    Cyclists will thank us for adding a note to the effect that it is quite possible to “ do” the Gap by cycle, the only drawback being the elimination of the boating excursion through the Long Range. Cyclists, however, have the advantage of seeing the Gap in both directions, an advantage far greater than would appear at-first sight. In fact, all tourists who can spare the day are recommended to see the Purple Mountain and Carran Tual in the other direction, especially in the afternoon, when the blackness of the Gap is in strong relief against the sunshine on the mountain-top.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    A lakeside landing point, Ross Castle, stands on the Lower Lake in Kerry. Visitors arriving by water row up the strait that separates Brigden Island from the Muckross demesne, then enter Glena Bay before crossing the Lower Lake. They land at the quay near the castle, where conveyances wait to take them to their hotel. Cyclists can cover the Gap by cycle, though they lose the boating excursion through the Long Range. They gain the advantage of seeing the Gap in both directions, which is a greater advantage than it first appears. All tourists who can spare the day are advised to see the Purple Mountain and Carran Tual from the other direction, especially in the afternoon, when the blackness of the Gap stands in strong relief against the sunshine on the mountain top.

39. St. Fin Barre's Cathedral and its French-inspired design

    Cork · city · Cork · 1870

    St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, the Protestant cathedral of Cork, occupies the site of the church founded by St. Fin Barre, to whom Cork is said to owe its foundation. Designed by William Burgess in French Early Pointed style, it was consecrated in 1870 and completed largely at the expense of Mr. Wise and Mr. Crawford.

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    the Protestant cathedral of the diocese. It occupies the site of the church erected by the saint to whom Cork is said to owe its foundation, and is the third building which has stood on the spot.

    ‘

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Cork is said to owe its foundation to St. Fin Barre. His church stood where St. Fin Barre's Cathedral now stands, the Protestant cathedral of the diocese and the third building on the spot. William Burgess designed it in French Early Pointed style. It was consecrated in 1870, completed largely at the expense of Mr. Wise and Mr. Crawford.

40. The Keep of Blarney Castle

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    The Keep is a square, well-preserved structure standing 120 feet high, capped by machiolated battlements built out from the wall on staging so defenders could drop stones on assailants. Extensive remains of other buildings also survive.

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    Persons who prefer the light of day will at once make their way to the Keep, a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet high, capped by machiolated battlements, which, it will be noticed do not form part of the wall, but are built out from it in a sort of staging, with the object of enabling defenders to drop stones and other trifles on to the heads of assailants. In addition to the keep, there are extensive remains of other buildings. |

    The history of Blarney Castle might be related at great length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the brave days of old are not likely greatly to interest the present generation. Suffice it to say that the structure, the third on the site, dates from about 1446, and was built by the then powerful Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Ldzdir, “‘the strong.” Of the siege of the castle by Cromwell’s forces under Ireton we have the following picturesque account in Kipling-like verse :—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stands the Keep of Blarney Castle. It is a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet high, capped by machiolated battlements. These do not form part of the wall itself but are built out from it in a kind of staging, so that defenders could drop stones and other things onto the heads of assailants below. Beyond the keep, there are extensive remains of other buildings as well. The history of Blarney Castle could be told at great length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the brave days of old are not likely to greatly interest the present generation. The structure standing now is the third on the site. It dates from about 1446 and was built by Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Ladir, meaning the strong. He was powerful in his time. The castle later faced a siege by Cromwell's forces under Ireton, an event recorded in verse.

41. The Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh

    near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

    The Pass of Keimaneigh is noted for its striking, Khyber-like topography along the route between Macroom and Glengariff. Its rugged scenery contributes significantly to the appeal of the tourist route.

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    Hermitage. LTHOUGH in reality an older route than the Prince of Wales route described in the last chapter, the Macroom, or “ Tourists” route, was only properly opened in 1898, by the arrangement of inclusive fares for rail and coach. ‘The road from Macroom to Glengariff has long been known to a few hardy and adventurous cyclists, but so far as tourists generally are concerned, we are safe in saying that it is almost terra incognita. We describe it here in the westward direction, as the scenery ahead is distinctly better this way ; but the route is, of course, equally available from Killarney and Glengariff, tickets being obtainable at either place, and at the principal stations of the Great Southern and Western Railway. The long chain of lakes at Inchigeela, the holy lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh, make this route a very attractive one.

    The Capwell station at Cork is in the southern part of the city (see plan), about a mile from St. Patrick’s Bridge. The railway journey presents some pretty pastoral scenery, but is chiefly interesting on account of the numerous ruined castles on either side.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Keimaneigh there is a pass that travellers have likened to the Khyber. The road from Macroom to Glengariff, called the Tourists' route, was in reality older than the Prince of Wales route, though it was only properly opened in 1898, when inclusive fares for rail and coach were arranged. Before that, the road had long been known to a few hardy and adventurous cyclists, but to tourists generally it was almost terra incognita. The guidebook recommends travelling it in the westward direction, as the scenery ahead is distinctly better that way, though the route is equally available from Killarney and Glengariff, with tickets obtainable at either place and at the principal stations of the Great Southern and Western Railway. What makes this route attractive is the long chain of lakes at Inchigeela, the holy lake of Gougane Barra, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh itself. The railway journey from Cork, beginning at Capwell station in the southern part of the city, about a mile from St. Patrick's Bridge, presents some pretty pastoral scenery and is chiefly interesting for the numerous ruined castles on either side.

42. The River Blackwater from Kingwilliamstown to Cappoquin

    near River Blackwater · river · Cork

    The Blackwater has a length of over eighty miles, though only sixteen are navigable. It rises above Kingwilliamstown, not twenty miles from Killarney, and traverses the entire breadth of County Cork from west to east before turning southward at Cappoquin.

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    Having walked or driven the 14 miles which separate the station at Youghal from the steamer quay, we quickly steam into the widest part of the river. The Blackwater has a length of over eighty miles, though only sixteen are navigable. It rises above Kingwilliamstown, not twenty miles from Killarney, and traverses the entire breadth of county Cork from west to east, taking a sudden turn southward at Cappoquin. This lower reach of the river has been compared times out of number to the Rhine, but so many rivers in the British Isles have been similarly honoured that the distinction is well-nigh valueless.

    After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhinerew Castle, on the left, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond -le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Straneally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    The River Blackwater runs for over eighty miles, though only sixteen are navigable. It rises above Kingwilliamstown, not twenty miles from Killarney, and crosses the entire breadth of County Cork from west to east before turning southward at Cappoquin. This lower reach has been compared to the Rhine, as the old guide says, "times out of number," but so many rivers in the British Isles have been similarly honoured that the distinction is "well-nigh valueless." After passing a bridge with five spans of a hundred feet each, the river banks rise to a considerable height on either side. Rhinerew Castle was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. A steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle, and past the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray comes into sight. Then the river widens again into a lake called the Broad of Clashmore, and there is a prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river, described as extremely beautiful. Straneally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, with ivied ruins.

43. Baltimore round Beacon viewpoint opposite Sherkin Island

    Baltimore · town · Cork

    A curious round Beacon stands at the extreme south-west point of the cliff at Baltimore, right opposite Sherkin Island. It is the best viewpoint for understanding the great harbour with its many islands, reached by a cliff-path scramble requiring care due to steep drops.

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    the great harbour are difficult to understand on account of the many islands, some of considerable size, which occupy it. The best view point is at the curious round Beacon at the extreme south-west point of the cliff, right opposite Sherkin Island. The way is easily found. Continue seawards on leaving the railway station until the road ends, then take to the cliff-path and scramble upwards, the beacon being well in sight. Care is necessary, as the cliff is steep, and there are some nasty chasms in places. The island to the southwest beyond Sherkin is Clear Island (see p. 167). The Fastnet Rock Lighthouse lies beyond.

    BALTIMORE—CAPE CLEAR 167

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Baltimore, there's a round beacon standing at the extreme south-west point of the cliff, right opposite Sherkin Island. It's the best place to take in the great harbour, which is hard to read because of the many islands, some of considerable size, that fill it. To reach the beacon you continue seawards until the road ends, then scramble up the cliff-path. Care is necessary, as the cliff is steep and there are some nasty chasms. Beyond Sherkin to the south-west lies Clear Island, and the Fastnet Rock lighthouse lies beyond that.

44. Blackwater Bridge on the Kerry Blackwater

    near Blackwater Bridge · population centre · Kerry

    The Kerry Blackwater runs between high banks, spanned by a two-arched bridge about sixty feet above the water surface. The stream tumbles over rocks forming pretty cascades before expanding into a small harbour useful to coasting vessels, and is famous for salmon.

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    The coach leaves Parknasilla about 10.0 a.m. for the remaining fifteen miles’ drive to Kenmare. The road hes high above, but close to, the sea. We pass the head of Coongar Harbour, which is sheltered by Rossmore Island, one of the largest in the estuary. The best part of the drive is reached ata distance of six miles as we descend the wooded slopes to the Blackwater, one of the many rivers of that name in Ireland, and distinguished from others as the “ Kerry” Blackwater. It runs merrily along, between banks so high that the two-arched bridge by which we cross is quite 60 feet above the surface of the water. The coach stops for a few minutes to allow passengers to pass beneath the bridge, an opportunity which none should neglect. The stream tumbles over numerous rocks and forms many pretty cascades in its course to Kenmare Bay—now so rapidly narrowing as to be scarcely two miles across. But before mingling its fresh water with the briny waves of the sea, the Blackwater again expands and forms a snug little harbour, useful to small coasting vessels. The Blackwater is famous for salmon.

    There is a carriage-road from Blackwater Bridge, vid the Gap of Ballaghbeama, to Glenear (154 miles, or from Parknasilla, 22). This road, a great part of which is comparatively new, is the one referred to on p. 132. <A mile or two to the west are the pretty Cloone Lakes. Near the bridge over the Blackwater is the Castle of Dromore, a Gothic building, with beautiful grounds in which are the ruins of Cappanacuss Castle. The road passes Lough Brinn, near which a road (which may be traversed by an outside car but is not practicable for carriages) turns off to the Upper Lake of Killarney and the Gap of Dunloe. Just off the coast are the Greenan and the Dunkerron Islands, the former chain joined to the shore at low water. Three miles from the bridge we pass the ruins of Dunkerron Castle, like Cappanacuss once a seat of the O’Sullivans.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes through Blackwater Bridge, where the Kerry Blackwater runs between high banks. A two-arched bridge crosses the river, about 60 feet above the surface of the water. The stream tumbles over numerous rocks and forms many pretty cascades on its way to Kenmare Bay, which at this point is scarcely two miles across. Before meeting the sea, the Blackwater expands again into a snug little harbour, useful to small coasting vessels. The river is famous for salmon. The road descends through wooded slopes to reach the river, and there is good reason to stop and walk beneath the bridge to see the cascades. A carriage-road runs from Blackwater Bridge through the Gap of Ballaghbeama to Glenear, much of it comparatively new. A mile or two to the west are the pretty Cloone Lakes. Near the bridge over the Blackwater stands the Castle of Dromore, a Gothic building with beautiful grounds that hold the ruins of Cappanacuss Castle. The road passes Lough Brinn, near which another road turns off toward the Upper Lake of Killarney and the Gap of Dunloe, though that road may be traversed only by an outside car and is not practicable for carriages. Just off the coast are the Greenan and the Dunkerron Islands, the Greenan joined to the shore at low water. Three miles from the bridge stand the ruins of Dunkerron Castle, which, like Cappanacuss, was once a seat of the O'Sullivans.

45. Carrigrohane Castle on the Lee

    near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork

    High on a steep rock above Carrigrohane stands a castle, visible from the railway route along the valley of the Lee as it leaves Cork city.

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    Leaving the station, we run first along the roadside, having on our right the Mardyke, and presently the City Waterworks and the many-gabled Lunatic Asylum. On the left we have Queen’s College and the Male Gaol. Between Victoria Cross and Carrigrohane is passed the Model Farm, where training is given in agriculture, dairy-farming, etc. The institution has been very successful. The valley of the Lee presents here and there as we get further from the city some pretty peeps. This is notably the case as Carrigrohane, above which, high on the steep rock, is a Castle. We shortly cross the Lee, and follow its tributary, the Shournagh, a trout stream of some repute. The valley is now wider, and affords a more extensive view. Passing Healy Bridge we reach Junction, from which the main line continues westward to

    Coachford, 94 miles distant.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, above Carrigrohane, a castle stands high on the steep rock. As the valley of the Lee opens out leaving Cork city, it gives pretty glimpses here and there, and the castle is the most notable of them. The railway line runs along the valley, and shortly after Carrigrohane it crosses the Lee itself, then follows a tributary called the Shournagh, a trout stream of some repute. Before reaching the castle, the line passes between Victoria Cross and Carrigrohane a Model Farm where training is given in agriculture and dairy-farming, an institution described as very successful. Beyond the river the valley grows wider and affords a more extensive view, past Healy Bridge toward the Junction, from which the main line continues westward toward Coachford, 94 miles distant.

46. Castlemary Druidical Cromlech

    Castlemary · townland · Cork

    Castlemary, about a mile from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech, a prehistoric monument noted along the driving route.

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    The route (b), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney, but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (54 miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 114 feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is

    56 | BALLYCOTTON

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Castlemary, there is a Druidical cromlech, a prehistoric monument. The guidebook calls it interesting, and places it about a mile from Cloyne. The road past it runs on from Rostellan Castle, with its woods and grounds, and the drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton is described as pretty, with good roads for cyclists, though it cannot be compared with the drives about Killarney. That is all the record gives us for the cromlech itself.

47. Garinish Island near Parknasilla

    Garinish Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    Garinish Island, lying west of Parknasilla across the mouth of the Sneem river, is an exquisitely wooded island of fifty-eight acres and the property of the Earl of Dunraven. Boating, bathing, fishing, and mountain-climbing can all be enjoyed in the locality.

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    Little footbridges, span the clear channels between the demesne and many of the islets, affording charming walks. To the west, reached by fifteen minutes’ pull across the mouth of the Sneem river, is the exquisitely-wooded Garinish Island, the property of the Earl of Dunraven. The island has an

    Killarney (1) I45

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    West across the mouth of the Sneem river lies Garinish Island, fifty-eight acres of exquisite woodland belonging to the Earl of Dunraven. You reach it by a fifteen-minute pull across the water. Little footbridges span the clear channels between the demesne and nearby islets, giving charming walks. Boating, bathing, fishing, and mountain-climbing can all be had in the locality.

48. Lough Leane: lake of learning and religious houses

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Lower Lake's proper name is Lough Leane, meaning 'the lake of learning,' probably derived from the fact that there were three religious establishments on its shores. It is more than five miles long by three wide.

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    The Lower Lake is more than five miles long by three wide ; its proper name is Lough Leane (“ the lake of learning ’’), probably derived from the fact that there were three religious establishments on its’shores. We first visit—

    Ross Island,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 42

    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Leane, the lake the road passes near in Kerry. The name means the lake of learning, probably because there were three religious establishments on its shores. It runs more than 5 miles long by 3 wide.

49. Ross Castle and its panoramic view

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    Ross Castle can be reached via a gate from Kenmare Demesne. From its battlement and window a comprehensive view of Lord Kenmare's picturesque domain is obtained, with the mansion appearing to great advantage.

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    Keeping to the left, the visitor reaches a gate leading to Ross Castle. From the battlement and windows a comprehensive view of the picturesque domain we have just. left may be obtained, the mansion appearing to very great advantage. ;

    TH ES.) XH (DeAgye

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 49

    As the companion tells it

    Ross Castle stands reached through a gate from Kenmare Demesne. From its battlement and windows you can take in a comprehensive view of Lord Kenmare's picturesque domain, with the mansion appearing to very great advantage.

50. Siege of Blarney Castle by Cromwell's forces under Ireton

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    Blarney Castle was besieged by Cromwell's forces under Ireton. A contemporary verse recounts the defenders looking over the battlement wall at Cromwell and his son-in-law Ireton consuming powder and shot.

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    “It was now the poor boys of the Castle looked over the battlement wall,

    And they saw that ruffian, ould Cromwell, a-feeding on powder

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Blarney, a castle was besieged by Cromwell's forces under Ireton. A verse from the time has the defenders looking over the battlement wall, and they saw that ruffian, ould Cromwell, a-feeding on powder and shot.

51. Sunday's Well miraculous spring

    near Sunday's Well · population centre · Cork

    Sunday's Well district occupies the southern slope of a long hill overlooking Cork city. Its name is derived from a spring once believed to possess miraculous virtues.

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    which occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward in a line with the river and overlooking the city. The name is supposed to be derived from a spring once believed to possess miraculous virtues. In this quarter are the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white stone dressings, that shows up so prominently is the St. Vineent’s Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum appears to be a quite desirable place of residence. Another building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Sunday's Well occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward in a line with the river and overlooking Cork city. The name is supposed to be derived from a spring once believed to possess miraculous virtues. In this quarter are the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white stone dressings, that shows up prominently is St. Vincent's Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum appears to be a quite desirable place of residence. Another building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison.

52. Ballylicky Bridge road junction

    near Ballylickey · population centre · Cork

    About a mile and a half past Snave Bridge on the Glengariff to Bantry road, several roads meet at Ballylicky Bridge. One route follows the Coomhola and Slaheny rivers to Kilgarvan, another follows the Owvane eastward to Keimaneigh and Gougane Barra.

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    ‘Assuming that the Prince of Wales Route is adhered to, 1e tourist has a choice of several coaches daily for the ten id a half miles to Bantry. The coaches start from the Eccles, ling at the Belle Vue and Roche’s on the way. The road ‘rts the harbour and the head of Bantry Bay, and we have ard it not inaptly described by an Irishman as “ the most indingest in creation.” The cyclist never knows what may ' round the next corner—pigs, cows, or coaches—so it is sll to be wary. The views of the bay are pretty, but call ¢no remark. We cross the Coomhola river at Snave Bridge, mm which point a fine level road runs northward to Kil- Ivan. In another mile and a half we reach the junction of veral roads at Ballylicky Bridge. One (not recommended ‘ cyclists) follows first the course of the Coomhola and -n the Slaheny river to Kilgarvan (24 miles). Another is > road which follows the river Owvane eastward to Keimsigh and Gougane Barra, and so to Macroom and Cork. r own road continues round the bay for another four miles

    160 GLENGARIFF TO BANTRY

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 62

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into Ballylickey, on the road that skirts the harbour and the head of Bantry Bay. An Irishman once called this road, in the words of the guidebook, "the most windingest in creation." The cyclist never knows what may be round the next corner, pigs, cows, or coaches, so it is well to be wary. The views of the bay are pretty but call for no remark. About a mile and a half back you crossed the Coomhola river at Snave Bridge, where a fine level road runs northward to Kilgarvan. Now several roads meet at Ballylicky Bridge. One, not recommended for cyclists, follows first the Coomhola and then the Slaheny river to Kilgarvan, 24 miles away. Another follows the river Owvane eastward to Keimaneigh and Gougane Barra, and so to Macroom and Cork. The coaches that run this route start from the Eccles, calling at the Belle Vue and Roche's on the way, covering ten and a half miles to Bantry. The main road continues round the bay for another four miles.

53. Capture of Kinsale and the Jacobite song

    Kinsale · town · Cork

    Kinsale was captured a few days after Cork during the Williamite War. This event gave rise to a famous Jacobite song.

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    When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was per- ‘formed in London. On the deposition of James II the city -once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, ‘and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song :—

    ‘

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 16

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Kinsale, in Cork. In the fighting after James the Second was deposed, Churchill took Cork after a five days' siege at the head of an Orange army, and Kinsale fell a few days later. The fall of Kinsale gave rise to a famous Jacobite song, though the words are not recorded here.

54. Caves at Ovens and St. Owen tradition

    Ovens · electoral division · Cork

    The hamlet of Ovens takes its name from St. Owen, patron saint of the parish. Noted caves in the limestone rock are a feature of the locality.

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    Cemetery, and glimpses of other parts of the city, and have a run of nearly seven miles to Ballineolig (‘‘ the town of the wild boar’’), with its barracks and gunpowder works. The conspicuous square tower is part of the,ruin of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. Atkout two miles from Ballincollig, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish), there are some noted caves in the limestone rock. Shortly after leaving Killumney station, we have, on the right, the ruins of Kilerea Abbey, and on the left the Castle, built in 1465, by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry.

    A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore (‘‘ the great castle’’), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century. Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha (‘‘ the stone building of David’’), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney, we reach the terminus of the railway at—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 69

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes through Ovens, a place whose name is a corruption of St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish. About two miles from Ballincollig, the hamlet stands among limestone rock that holds some noted caves. Along the way is Ballineolig, "the town of the wild boar," with its barracks and gunpowder works. A conspicuous square tower there is part of the ruin of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. Near Killumney station stand the ruins of Kilerea Abbey, and a castle built in 1465 by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry. A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore, "the great castle," built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century. Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha, "the stone building of David," restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney, the railway reaches its terminus.

55. Early Christian and later remains at Aghadoe

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Aghadoe, in Kerry, preserves early Christian and later architectural remains, and is named alongside numerous holy places, islands, and wells that remain objects of pilgrimage or much-desired burial-places.

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    Archzology.—Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character—so long undeciphered—and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique - example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 1838-8.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through or near Aghadoe, a parish in Kerry where early Christian and later architectural remains can still be seen. Kerry is full of older things too, cromlechs and standing stones called gallauns, some marked with writing in the Ogham character, long undeciphered. The Bishop of Limerick gathered stones bearing Ogham inscriptions, and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, once his own residence. Near Sneem stands Staigue Fort, an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. All those are pre-Christian. But here at Aghadoe the remains belong to a later age, and many holy places, islands, and wells in this country remain objects of pilgrimage or much-desired burial-places.

56. Elizabeth Fort above Bishop Street

    Cork · city · Cork

    Elizabeth Fort, whose dingy wall is visible high up on the left approaching Bishop Street from Sullivan's Quay and French's Quay, is noted as a landmark on the route to St. Fin Barre's Cathedral.

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    or Church of the Holy Trinity. It is a beautiful limestone building, and when seen from across the water immediately arrests the eye by its curious open front and pinnacled tower. The spire is 200 feet high. The church contains a fine stainedglass window in memory of O’Connell, the ‘ Liberator.” Crossing the South Channel by Parliament Bridge, with its single arch, we turn westward by Sullivan’s Quay and French’s Quay to Bishop Street, noticing high up on the left the dingy wall of Elizabeth Fort. We now reach what is by far the most noteworthy and imposing building in Cork,

    St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, Elizabeth Fort stands above Bishop Street, its dingy wall visible high on the approach from Sullivan's Quay and French's Quay. It serves as a landmark on the way to St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, which the guide calls by far the most noteworthy and imposing building in Cork. The cathedral is a beautiful limestone building, its spire 200 feet high, with a curious open front and pinnacled tower. Seen from across the water it arrests the eye. Inside is a fine stained glass window in memory of O'Connell, the 'Liberator.' The route crosses the South Channel by Parliament Bridge, a single arch, then turns westward toward the cathedral.

57. Glacial erratic blocks at Kenmare

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry

    Near Kenmare, a large block of Old Red Sandstone rests atop a limestone pillar six feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone rests on Old Red Sandstone, demonstrating glacial transport of contrasting rock types.

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    from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one. This basin was hollowed out by a glacier; lower down the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn—the eagle’s lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks—one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone. Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams. Climate.—The mean temperature of Kerry and part of Cork is 51°, of the extreme south-west 52°. The rainfall is from 40 to 50 inches, but in the south-west it is over 50 and under 75 inches—this is exceeded in parts of Wales, Scotland and the Lake District in England. Winter and summer temperature are very equable, and the air pure. June and September are the driest months in Ireland. Zoology.—Ked deer are now found wild only at Killarney. Elk were once there. The zoology of the Kerry district is specially interesting, both fauna and flora having apparently a Spanish or Portuguese origin, hence they are called Lusttanian—the former name of the Roman province now Portugal. A black slug with yellow spots is found only in the south-west of Ireland and Portugal—nowhere else in the world. Other molluscs have a similar origin, but two are peculiar to Kenmare. Other very rare creatures may be found in this region, a dark wood-mouse, etc. But the district also contains North American and Arctic forms of life —fresh-water sponge, certain beetles, butterflies, etc. The great wolf spider, the large grasshopper, and the clear-wing moth are all found here, and many rare insects. Botany.—Here also a Lusitanian origin may be seen in many specimens, for Mediterranean or Pyrenean flowering plants are found, as well as some American. Some of the semi-tropical mosses, etc., are found nowhere else in Europe, possibly the Gulf Stream has carried them over. It is

    182 SCIENCE NOTES -

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the rocks tell a story of ice. Near Kenmare, a huge block of Old Red Sandstone rests on a limestone pillar 6 feet high. In another direction, a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone. Each sits where no human hand placed it. The ice carried one rock type onto another, leaving them stranded when the glacier melted. This is part of a wider pattern across Kerry and Cork. Glacial lakes abound. Lough Coomanassig sits 1,500 feet above the sea, its basin hollowed out by a glacier. Lower down, a moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn called the eagle's lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen. Many perched blocks lie scattered across the landscape. One near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. The passage from Kenmare to Killarney shows these signs throughout. The great blocks near here are striking because each rests on a rock type unlike its own. The sandstone sits on limestone. The limestone sits on sandstone. The glacier picked up material from one bedrock area and dropped it onto another. That contrast is what makes these blocks worth seeking out. They are evidence of transport over distance, recorded in stone.

58. Gougane Barra, the holy lake

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    Gougane Barra is a celebrated 'holy lake' lying in a sequestered spot, environed on all but the eastern side by mountains rising abruptly to 1,800 feet. The dark cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the water.

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    The lake lies in a sequestered spot, environed on all save the eastern side by mountains of the steepest and most desolate aspect, which rise abruptly. to a height of 1,800 feet. The dark shadows of these great overhanging cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the water. The lake itself is dark and lustrous as a polished slab of marble, and the gloomy grandeur of the cliffs is only relieved by the streams

    W. Lawrence,] [Dublin.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 69

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass Gougane Barra, you are near a celebrated holy lake lying in a sequestered spot. Mountains rise on all sides save the east, the steepest and most desolate in aspect, reaching 1,800 feet. Their dark shadows are reflected in the glassy surface of the water. The lake itself is dark and lustrous as a polished slab of marble. The gloomy grandeur of the cliffs is relieved only by the streams.

59. Lough Mahon, the wide expanse of the Lee

    near Lough Mahon · channel sound · Cork

    The wide expanse of the River Lee between Blackrock and Passage is called Lough Mahon, and has the appearance of a land-locked lake bordered by hills, woods, pastures, and dotted with islands.

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    We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for _ the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Teniperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Passage West,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Lough Mahon, the River Lee opens out into a wide expanse that looks like a land-locked lake. The railway skirts the water, and when the tide is up the views are striking. Hills and woods and far-stretching pastures border the water, and islands dot it here and there. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland but Little Island. A conspicuous tower stands on a small eminence there, the Mathew Tower, raised as a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota with its tower, lies the demesne of Lord Barrymore. Closer to Rochestown station is Hop Island, said to take its name from the family who owned it, a family that taught dancing in Cork.

60. Maryborough Castle bastion

    Portlaoise · municipal district · Laois

    Maryborough's chief attraction is a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood.

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    range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase.

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line; and Ballybrophy station (vef. voom) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Tem- ~ plars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as ““ godless,’’ recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00unse_1, Chapter 12

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes through or near Maryborough, the town that stands on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attraction is a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood. The town was planted as a seat of control, and the castle was its instrument, standing over a landscape only lately brought under English dominion. What you can see now is the bastion, a surviving piece of that original fortress. Close by are the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. That castle crowned the summit of a singularly shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase. Strongbow, the Norman lord who led the invasion of Ireland, held it in an earlier age, when the balance of power in this country was still being decided stone by stone and fortress by fortress. The bastion and the rock-top ruin together carry the memory of conquest and resistance in this part of Ireland.