Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Derrynane, home of Daniel O'Connell

   Derrynane · street · Limerick

   Derrynane is an irregular, partly castellated pile of buildings on the shore of Derrynane Bay, noteworthy as the home of Daniel O'Connell and occupied by his descendants. The chapel within the building and some interesting relics can be seen by courtesy of the proprietor.

   Read the passage

   noteworthy as the home of Daniel O'Connell, and now occupied by his descendants. It is an irregular pile of buildings, partly castellated, and the grounds improved with shrubberies and plantations, so far as the situation, so much exposed to westerly gales, will allow. The chapel in the building and some interesting relics can be seen by the courtesy of the proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey stand on a peninsula, which at spring-tides becomes isolated. Though the monastery is said to have been founded in the seventh century by the monks of St. Fin Barre, the remains are not older than the thirteenth. Here is the family grave of the O'Connells, but " the great agitator's " remains repose beneath a lofty round tower in the Glasnevin Cemetery at Dublin. Close to Derrynane is a small, but snug, harbour, with a diminutive quay at which vessels of two hundred tons burthen may discharge their cargoes. Near Caherdaniel, the adjoining hamlet, is a small stone fort. We presently reach West Cove, on the northern shore of the Kenmare estuary, and then Castle Cove. A mile and a half up the valley on the left is —

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   As the companion tells it

   Along here is Derrynane, the home of Daniel O'Connell, now occupied by his descendants. It is an irregular pile of buildings, partly castellated, with grounds improved by shrubberies and plantations as far as the exposed situation, open to westerly gales, will allow. The chapel within the building and some interesting relics can be seen by courtesy of the proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey stand on a peninsula that becomes isolated at spring tides. The monastery is said to have been founded in the seventh century by the monks of St. Fin Barre, though the remains are not older than the thirteenth century. Here is the family grave of the O'Connells, but Daniel O'Connell's own remains lie beneath a lofty round tower in Glasnevin Cemetery at Dublin. Close to Derrynane is a small but snug harbour with a diminutive quay where vessels of 200 tons burthen may discharge their cargoes. Near Caherdaniel, the adjoining hamlet, is a small stone fort.

2. Mutiny of the Temeraire at Bantry Bay

   near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

   The crew of the Temeraire, the old battleship of Turner's famous painting, mutinied at Bantry Bay. Admiral Eyles had twenty ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen were hung from the yard-arm.

   Read the passage

   It was here that the crew of the Temeraire (the old battleship of Turner's famous painting) mutinied ; but the firmness of Admiral Eyles probably saved his own life and the lives of his officers. He had twenty of the ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen of them were hung from the yard-arm.

   Whiddy Island,

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3. Raleigh's Myrtle Grove and first potatoes

   Youghal · town · Cork · 1579–1589

   Myrtle Grove, adjoining the churchyard, belonged to Sir Walter Raleigh as part of a grant rewarding him for repressing the Desmond rebellion of 1579. While residing there he planted the first potatoes in Ireland, brought from Virginia, and startled his domestics by smoking tobacco. He was mayor of the town in 1588-9.

   Read the passage

   which belonged to Sir Walter Raleigh, having formed part of a grant of land with which he was rewarded for repressing the rebellion of the Earl of Desmond in 1579. It was while residing here that Raleigh planted the first potatoes in Ireland, having brought some from Virginia, and also startled his domestics by smoking tobacco. He was mayor of the

   64 YOUGHAL TO CAPPOQUIN

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4. Castletownshend castle and naval engagement

   Castletownshend · town · Cork · 1602–1690

   Castletownshend, of old known as Sleugleig, derives its name and that of the bay from a strong castle of the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by followers of King James during the struggle culminating in the Battle of the Boyne. In 1602 the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between Spaniards under Don Pedro de Zuibar and the British fleet commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

   Read the passage

   Toe Head, to the eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, are between us and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory which shuts in Castle Haven, at the head o,f: which is Castletownshend (several Inns), of old known as Sleugleig, its modern name and that of the bay being derived from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

   Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of the far-reaching islet known as Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall. Glandore would make a charming winter resort for invalids, the climate being noticeably mild, though this characteristic distinguishes more or less the whole of the south-west of Ireland.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 77

   As the companion tells it

   Up ahead is Castletownshend, a town on the head of Castle Haven. Toe Head, eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene, and three rocks of unusual height called the Stags stand between the water and the land. The ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. A western promontory terminates at the head and shuts in Castle Haven, and at its head is Castletownshend, of old known as Sleugleig. The modern name of the town and of the bay comes from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends. Followers of King James besieged that castle twice, in vain, during the struggle that culminated in the battle of the Boyne. Earlier, in 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards under Don Pedro de Zuibar and the British fleet commanded by Sir Richard Levison. There are several inns in the town.

5. Early monastery on Skellig Michael devastated by Danes

   near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry · 812

   The Great Skellig held an early monastery whose ruins were still visible. The Danes devastated the island in 812, and the monks were starved in their cells.

   Read the passage

   about nine miles from Bolus Head, the southern cape of county Kerry, and some twelve to the south-west of Bray Head. They are the favourite haunt of sea-birds, notably gannets ; at times, indeed, they are nearly covered with them. The larger island is an enormous mass of slaty rock, divided, at the height of about fifty yards, into two pyramidal summits, the higher of which reaches an altitude of some 700 feet ; the other is 100 feet lower. In early times there was a monastery here, the ruins of which may still be seen ; but the island was devastated by the Danes in 812, and the monks were starved in their cells. Until recently, the island was a place of penance, and was annually visited by great numbers of devotees, who climbed the highest summits, stopping at various stations and performing orisons at each. Two lighthouses were erected on the island in 1826 and are connected by a road along the face of the cliff.

   Cahirciveen to Parknasilla.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 64

6. French invasion fleet at Bantry Bay, 1796

   near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1796

   In 1796 a French armament of about 15,000 men intended for the invasion of Ireland gathered in Bantry Bay as rendezvous but was scattered by a storm, losing a quarter of its ships. The remnant stayed five days before sailing back to France, and the government erected fortifications at Bantry to prevent future surprise.

   Read the passage

   inferior in force, were compelled to sail out again, after a brisk engagement. In 1796, the French, with about fifteen thousand men intended for the invasion of Ireland, again put to sea, appointing Bantry Bay as their rendezvous. Scattered by a storm, in which one-fourth of the ships were lost, only a remnant of the armament reached the Irish coast ; and General Hoche, the commander-in-chief, not having joined them, the vessels which had cast anchor did not deem it prudent to disembark their forces. Having lost an oppor-

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7. Ross Castle siege: prophecy and surrender to Ludlow

   Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1652

   Ross Castle was defended by Lord Muskerry until General Ludlow brought 4,000 troops against it. The garrison surrendered after Ludlow launched boats on the lake, fulfilling an ancient prophecy that the castle would be impregnable until surrounded by ships of war.

   Read the passage

   finally reduced until 1652. Ross Castle was then defended by Lord Muskerry ; and General Ludlow brought a force of 4,000 horse and foot against it. The great strength of the place and the difficulty of attacking it would probably have tested the endurance of the Parliamentary troops had not the garrison been intimidated by an ancient prophecy that the castle would be impregnable until it was surrounded by ships of war. With characteristic energy, Ludlow caused some boats to be dragged up from Castlemaine and launched on the lake. Their appearance, filled with soldiers and

   INNISFA LLEN io3

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8. Lough Hyne castle ruins and children's graveyard

   near Lough Hyne · lake or lakes · Cork

   About four miles from Skibbereen, Lough Hyne is a marine cul-de-sac with a narrow inlet from the sea. An islet in the centre holds ruins of an old castle of the O'Donnells, and on the shore is a graveyard devoted exclusively to the burial of children, found nowhere but in Ireland.

   Read the passage

   Skibbereen is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, standing at the spot where the Hen widens out to form the creek. The town is unattractive, and has suffered severely during successive famines. A walk or drive that should not be missed is that to Lough Hyne (about 4 miles), a kind of marine cul de sac, with a very narrow inlet from the sea. The country is wild and desolate in the extreme, but the immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In the centre is an islet, on which are the ruins of an old castle of the O'Donnells ; and on the shore is one of those graveyards devoted exclusively to the burial of children to be found nowhere but in Ireland.

   Toe Head, to the eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, are between us and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory which shuts in Castle Haven, at the head o,f: which is Castletownshend (several Inns), of old known as Sleugleig, its modern name and that of the bay being derived from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 77

   As the companion tells it

   You are coming near Lough Hyne, about four miles from Skibbereen. The town of Skibbereen, with about 3,000 inhabitants, stands where the Hen widens out to form the creek. It has suffered severely during successive famines, and the guide calls it unattractive. The walk or drive from there to this lough should not be missed. Lough Hyne is a kind of marine cul-de-sac, with a very narrow inlet from the sea. The country around is wild and desolate in the extreme, but the immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In the centre of the lake is an islet, on which are the ruins of an old castle of the O'Donnells. On the shore is a graveyard devoted exclusively to the burial of children, found nowhere but in Ireland.

9. Perkin Warbeck and Cork's Lost Charter

   Cork · city · Cork · 1492

   When Perkin Warbeck arrived in 1492, the citizens of Cork enthusiastically supported his cause. Mayor Walters took a leading role in the expedition and was executed, and Cork lost its charter as a consequence.

   Read the passage

   what was far worse, their own money The English Parliament went the length of calling the Cork coinage utterly damned," an outbreak of temper which was perhaps excusable, but not deified. The Cork people of those day seem to have possessed a genius for aggravation for, ^ while declining to send representatives to Parliament they turned deaf ears to the solicitations of the tax gatherer on the ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour, and the mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, losing his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter ; and, being still suspect, was invested in H98 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong orce when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. When it was intend ed to ] proc aim Tames I, the mayor took upon himself to ask the Lords Commissioners what were the king's intentions m the matter of freedom of conscience, and failing to obtain a satisfactory answer clapt "my lords" into Shandon Castle, pending furtner information. When it was found that James was not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclamation, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason.

   In 1600, Camden describes the city as « of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one .strait street continued by a bridge ; it is, however a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

10. Royal ascent of Carran Tual, 1858

    near Carrauntoohil · mountain or mountain range · Kerry · 1858

    The King, then Prince of Wales (later Edward VII), ascended Carran Tual during his 1858 visit to Killarney and placed the first stone of the summit cairn, which visitors subsequently added to.

    Read the passage

    The King, during his visit to Killarney in 1858, went up Carran Tual ; and we will follow in the steps of royalty and order our ponies to the foot of the mountain, early enough, however, to allow them a good rest there, for it is fifteen miles from Killarney. The road leads away by the northern shore of the Lower Lake, crosses the river Laune "east of Dunloe Castle, passes the entrance to the Gap, and gradually winds amongst the mountains. We have Carran continually in sight ; and judging distance by the eye alone, should never suppose it so far away. At the base of the mountain, about five miles from the top, we reach a cottage built for the accommodation of visitors ; and here our ponies await us. All the guides of the place assert their exclusive right to " show the gintleman up," and to tell him the legends. It is better to hire one or two of these wild, hardy, ragged fellows ; though they may be in rags they will not covet the coat they are entrusted to carry, nor, however hungry, will they disturb the viands confided to their care.

    We now commence the ascent, the shock-headed guides, laden with coats and knapsacks and armed with cudgels, leading. The path is not difficult, though rugged in places, and strewn with coarse stones. Continuing for about three miles, we reach an exceedingly lonely glen, whence the mountain rises almost precipitously, and makes it necessary for us to dismount. This is called the Hag's Glen, and here are two gloomy lakelets where the hag is said to bathe and wash her clothes. The guide will show one of her teeth, and point out her chair and her crutch — all fantastic rocks. But the path becomes steeper and more steep, and not all our guide's wit can prevent the feeling that our work is tough. After an hour and a half's scrambling, we reach the summit, crowned by a little cairn, the first stone of which was placed by the King, then Prince of Wales ; and having emulated

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 47

11. Skellig Michael as a place of penance and pilgrimage

    near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry

    Until recently the island was a place of penance, annually visited by great numbers of devotees who climbed the highest summits, stopping at various stations to perform orisons. The tradition reflects the island's long sacred associations.

    Read the passage

    about nine miles from Bolus Head, the southern cape of county Kerry, and some twelve to the south-west of Bray Head. They are the favourite haunt of sea-birds, notably gannets ; at times, indeed, they are nearly covered with them. The larger island is an enormous mass of slaty rock, divided, at the height of about fifty yards, into two pyramidal summits, the higher of which reaches an altitude of some 700 feet ; the other is 100 feet lower. In early times there was a monastery here, the ruins of which may still be seen ; but the island was devastated by the Danes in 812, and the monks were starved in their cells. Until recently, the island was a place of penance, and was annually visited by great numbers of devotees, who climbed the highest summits, stopping at various stations and performing orisons at each. Two lighthouses were erected on the island in 1826 and are connected by a road along the face of the cliff.

    Cahirciveen to Parknasilla.

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12. Bog-slide at Bogach-na-Mine near Rathmore

    Rathmore · townland · Cork · 1896

    At Christmas 1896, a massive bog-slide occurred near Quarry Lodge north of Rathmore station. The bog known as Bogach-na-Mine, some two hundred acres in extent, rolled bodily southward, sweeping away houses and suffocating some of their occupants.

    Read the passage

    The direct line to Killarney runs due west from Mallow, following the course of the Blackwater. There are five intermediate stations, but we only need notice those of Rathmore and Headford, the latter because it is the junction of the Kenmare branch (see p. 148) > the former to recall the bog-slide which took place near Quarry Lodge, to the north of the station, at Christmas, 1896, when Bogach-na-Mine, " the bog of the meal," some two hundred acres in extent, rolled bodily in a southerly direction, sweeping away houses and suffocating some of their occupants.

    Mallow to Cork.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Rathmore, at Christmas in 1896, a bog called Bogach-na-Mine rolled bodily southward. The name means 'the bog of the meal', and the bog was some two hundred acres in extent. It swept away houses and suffocated some of their occupants. The slide began near Quarry Lodge, north of Rathmore station.

13. Cahirciveen: most westerly town and O'Connell links

    Cahersiveen · town · Kerry

    Cahirciveen is described as the most westerly town in the British Isles and notable for its connection with Daniel O'Connell, the 'Liberator,' who spent his childhood at nearby Carhan House. The town is built at the base of the Bentee and its only public building of note is the O'Connell Memorial Church.

    Read the passage

    Cahirciveen is interesting as the most westerly town in the British Isles, and also from its connection with Daniel O'Connell, the " Liberator," who spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is built at the base of the Bentee (1,245 feet), and consists mainly of a long street bordering the main road. The only public building of note is the O'Connell Memorial Church. The white building in Scotch Baronial style, which shows up so prominently as the train crosses the estuary, is the Police Barracks. From near this spot a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867.

    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O'Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 62

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Cahirciveen, the most westerly town in the British Isles. Its chief interest is its connection with Daniel O'Connell, the Liberator, who spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is built at the base of the Bentee, which rises to 1,245 feet, and consists mainly of a long street bordering the main road. The only public building of note is the O'Connell Memorial Church. There is also a white building in Scotch Baronial style, the Police Barracks, which shows up prominently as you cross the estuary. From near that spot a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867. The town makes a good centre for sportsmen, and the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. You can make your headquarters here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O'Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

14. Commercial Cable Company station at Waterville

    Waterville · townland · Kerry · 1894

    The Commercial Cable Company landed two of their cables at Waterville, the latest completed in 1894, with the station and officials' houses forming a notable feature of the village. Two other cables connected France and England to this point.

    Read the passage

    The village, which bids fair shortly to become a town, is largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbourhood. Fishing is, for the most part, free ; salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place (close to the Bay View Hotel) is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. Here is the junction with another road which comes directly through the mountains from Kiharney, thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attractive Glencar on the way (see p. 1 30). The village is a tempting place of sojourn, commanding magnificent views of the Atlantic on the one hand, and of the mountains on the other ; and it is within three minutes' walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. Here, also, the Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables — the latest completed in 1894 ; and their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be inspected on application. Two other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. Moreover, at Ballinskelligs, across the bay, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks of the little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries into the bay the surplus water of —

    Lough Currane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Waterville, the Commercial Cable Company lands two of their cables, the latest completed in 1894. Their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms may be inspected on application. Two other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. Across the bay at Ballinskelligs, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may also be seen. The village itself bids fair shortly to become a town, and is largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbourhood. Fishing is, for the most part, free. Salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place, close to the Bay View Hotel, is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. Here is the junction with another road which comes directly through the mountains from Killarney, thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attractive Glencar on the way. The village commands magnificent views of the Atlantic on the one hand and of the mountains on the other, and it is within three minutes' walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit.

15. Devil's Punch Bowl tarn on Mangerton

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry · 1772

    A dark tarn nearly a quarter mile long, deep in a gorge on Mangerton Mountain, said to be unfathomable and containing no fish. Charles James Fox swam right round it in 1772 while visiting the Earl of Kenmare.

    Read the passage

    and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path- It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top on foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lou?h Guittane, a considerable lake singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil s Puneh Bowl. It is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil's Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom— at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 46

16. Kenmare founded as Nedeen by Sir William Petty

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1670

    Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen and was established by Sir William Petty, ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne. In 1670 Petty planted a colony of Englishmen who established fisheries and iron works, though they were later harassed by the Irish and forced to leave.

    Read the passage

    Kenmare is a fairly prosperous market town, at the head of the beautiful estuary to which it gives its name ; or, rather, from which it receives its name, for, according to Dr. Joyce, Kenmare signifies " head of the sea." The town is chiefly interesting to tourists from its position as a kind of coaching junction, being the half-way place between Glengariff and Killarney, and the terminus of the Kerry coast tour. It also possesses a lively interest from the fact that it is the halting-place for luncheon, for which, after a long mountain drive, most passengers are more than ready. Whether the Southern or the less pretentious Lansdowne be patronised, good value is given. Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen, and owes its existence to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty, having obtained a grant of land, planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale ; but were harrassed by the Irish, and surrendering, after some resistance, were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ireland by William III, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed ; but the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    Around here, near Kenmare in Kerry, the town was originally known as Nedeen, and it owes its existence to Sir William Petty, ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal owner of the land hereabouts. According to Dr. Joyce, the name Kenmare signifies 'head of the sea.' Petty, having obtained a grant of land, planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale, but they were harassed by the Irish, and surrendering after some resistance, were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ireland by William III, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed, but the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel.

17. Mayor Imprisons Lords in Shandon Castle

    near Shandon · locality · Cork

    When James I was to be proclaimed, Cork's mayor asked the Lords Commissioners about freedom of conscience. Receiving no satisfactory answer, he imprisoned them in Shandon Castle pending further information, and citizens declined to permit the proclamation.

    Read the passage

    what was far worse, their own money The English Parliament went the length of calling the Cork coinage utterly damned," an outbreak of temper which was perhaps excusable, but not deified. The Cork people of those day seem to have possessed a genius for aggravation for, ^ while declining to send representatives to Parliament they turned deaf ears to the solicitations of the tax gatherer on the ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour, and the mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, losing his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter ; and, being still suspect, was invested in H98 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong orce when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. When it was intend ed to ] proc aim Tames I, the mayor took upon himself to ask the Lords Commissioners what were the king's intentions m the matter of freedom of conscience, and failing to obtain a satisfactory answer clapt "my lords" into Shandon Castle, pending furtner information. When it was found that James was not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclamation, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason.

    In 1600, Camden describes the city as « of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one .strait street continued by a bridge ; it is, however a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

18. Bandon's Protestant character and anti-Papist gateway

    Bandon · town · Cork · 1600–1750

    Bandon was long almost exclusively Protestant, nicknamed the Southern Derry. The first Earl of Cork boasted no Catholic recusant was admitted, and tradition says the corporation inscribed a couplet above the gateway barring Papists, to which a wag replied with a chalked repartee about the gates of hell.

    Read the passage

    " Enter here, Turk, Jew, or Atheist, Anybody but a Papist."

    The same authority further records that one of the settlers of the " old faith," of a waggish disposition, having taken an extra glass or two, was returning at a late hour to the town when he beheld the interdiction with no little astonishment. Being of a poetical turn of mind, he inscribed with chalk beneath it the following neat repartee : — ■

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 79

19. Convent of Poor Clares and Kenmare lace

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1886–1893

    The Convent of Poor Clares in Kenmare is noted for producing fine Kenmare lace, which won first place at the South Kensington competition of 1886 and at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. The convent trains local girls in lace-making and singing.

    Read the passage

    beauty of the designs. Some of the lace is valued at its weight in gold. It won the first place in the South Kensington competition of 1886, and has held its own at other exhibitionsnotably at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. The girls also excel in singing. The convent is a handsome building in a cheerful sunny situation, surrounded with shrubberies and nower-beds, and adorned with some marble statues.

    Kenmare to Killarney.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 68

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Kenmare stands the Convent of Poor Clares, where the nuns train local girls in lace-making. The Kenmare lace is so fine it is valued at its weight in gold. It won first place at the South Kensington competition of 1886, and held its own at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. The girls also excel in singing. The convent itself is a handsome building, set in a cheerful sunny spot with shrubberies, flower-beds, and marble statues.

20. Fenian rising of 1867 at Cahirciveen

    Cahersiveen · town · Kerry · 1867

    From near the Police Barracks at Cahirciveen, a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867. The barracks is a white building in Scotch Baronial style prominent as the train crosses the estuary.

    Read the passage

    Cahirciveen is interesting as the most westerly town in the British Isles, and also from its connection with Daniel O'Connell, the " Liberator," who spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. The town is built at the base of the Bentee (1,245 feet), and consists mainly of a long street bordering the main road. The only public building of note is the O'Connell Memorial Church. The white building in Scotch Baronial style, which shows up so prominently as the train crosses the estuary, is the Police Barracks. From near this spot a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising of 1867.

    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O'Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 62

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along the road is Cahirciveen, the most westerly town in the British Isles, built at the base of the Bentee, which rises to 1,245 feet. The town is mainly a long street bordering the main road. Its one public building of note is the O'Connell Memorial Church. Cahirciveen has a connection to Daniel O'Connell, the Liberator, who spent his childhood at Carhan House close by, now in ruins. There is a white building in Scotch Baronial style that shows up prominently as the train crosses the estuary. That building is the Police Barracks. From near it, in 1867, a body of insurgents marched towards Killarney during the Fenian rising. The guidebook calls the town unimportant in itself, but a good centre for sportsmen. The ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the walks and drives through the scenery of this rugged western promontory. Nearby are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of whom the O'Connells were the hereditary constables. It stands near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

21. Muckross Abbey as burial site of O'Sullivans More

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    Muckross Abbey served as the place of sepulture for the O'Sullivans More and O'Donoghue, once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry. The graves of these stalwart leaders lie unnoticed in the rank vegetation alongside modern monuments and the graves of the peasantry.

    Read the passage

    This was also the place of sepulture of the O'Sullivans More, once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry, whose graves, and those of many other stalwart leaders, lie unnoticed m the rank vegetation that carpets Muckross.

    The Abbey is not without some stately modern monuments ; yet their beauty appears out of place amidst such mouldering desolation. The graves of the peasantry lie in many a grassy heap on the south side, and some of the cut stones have been taken from its walls to mark them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 44

22. Monkstown Castle and Anstatia Goold's tradition

    Monkstown · townland · Cork

    Monkstown derives its name from a colony of Benedictine monks and contains the ruins of an Elizabethan fortified residence known as Monkstown Castle or O'Mahony's Castle. Tradition holds that Anstatia Goold built the castle while her lord John Archdecken was away fighting under Philip of Spain, profiting by selling food to the workmen.

    Read the passage

    half a mile further south, is believed to derive its name from a colony of Benedictine monks. The place contains the ruins of an Elizabethan fortified residence, known diversely as Monkstown Castle and O'Mahony's Castle. Tradition declares Anstatia Goold, whose lord, one John Archdecken, was fighting under Philip of Spain (possibly against his lawful sovereign), feeling " lonesome like " during his long absence from home, conceived the idea of erecting this castle to while away the time and to surprise him on his return. Being, like John Gilpin's spouse, of a frugal mind, she shrewdly stipulated that the workmen should buy all their food from her. They either^ lived very extravagantly, or were greatly overcharged, for^the lady's profits were so considerable that it was,

    Monkstown,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 22

23. St. Fin Barre's Foundation of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    The foundation of Cork is disputed, with some authorities attributing it to St. Fin Barre in the seventh century and others to the Danes 200 years later. The saint erected a church and residence near the present city site, attracting disciples from all quarters.

    Read the passage

    As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authorities ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the " holy friars " of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. The good man enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted disciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a century or two of quiet, during which the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood as well. Night coming on, the invaders are said to have repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advantages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly fortified, making it a centre from which to pillage the surrounding country. In course of time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestowing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal's territory. But though Kenry retained Cork in his own hands, the inhabitants of the island city seem , to have enjoyed an almost total independence, making their own laws, and,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

24. Black Lough and the legend of St Patrick's last serpent

    Black Lough · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Black Lough, the farthest of the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes in the Gap of Dunloe, is remarkable for the inky blackness and coldness of its waters. Unlike the other lakelets which abound in fish, it has none, attributed by local tradition to St Patrick having drowned the last serpent there.

    Read the passage

    The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks, and running almost due south for about four miles. The gates of this romantic valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarcely give room for the road. The hills on either side are spurs of the great mountains, called respectively the Holly and Bull Mountains. A small stream traverses the valley, expanding in places into gloomy lakes, called the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes, remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters. The farthest of them, Black Lough, exceeds the others in this respect and in coldness. While the other lakelets abound in fish, this has none ; and Paddy assures us that this is due to the fact that the lake is the identical spot where St. Patrick drowned the last serpent.

    Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side in wild confusion, apparently ready to topple over and crush the visitor. The narrow torrent is twice crossed by the road, the brawling waters intensifying the desolate but sublime character of the scene. As we advance, the outline of the mountains changes. Huge boulders appear above the path, and shattered fragments of rock strew the steep mountain slopes. The Purple Mountain, with all its chromatic beauties ; the Tomies, with its glowing lights and intense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their aspiring summits ; then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold, still, and silent as death, combine to make a picture which has no equal in Killarney. It is a scene of utter solitude and desolation — a picture of the valley of the shadow of death. In a distance of about two miles after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road rises some 400 feet, the way being encumbered with rocks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 55

25. Bantry Bay and the French invasions

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1689–1796

    Bantry Bay was the scene of two attempted French invasions. In 1689, a French fleet bringing James II to Ireland entered the bay, pursued by an English fleet under Admiral Herbert. A second French attempt occurred in 1796.

    Read the passage

    The bay is historically interesting as having been the scene of two attempted invasions by the French. In 1689, their fleet, which brought to Ireland the ex-king of Great Britain, James II, entered. In a very short time, the English fleet,' under Admiral Herbert, bore down in pursuit ; but, being

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 75

26. Castle Cor, ruined MacGillycuddy residence

    Castlecor · electoral division · Cork

    The lofty mountains around Carran Tual were long the secure fastnesses of the MacGillycuddy sept. Castle Cor near Churchtown is the ruined residence of the earlier branch of the clan.

    Read the passage

    These lofty and extensive mountains were long the secure fastnesses of the powerful sept of the MacGillycuddies. Castle Cor, near Churchtown, is the ruined residence of the earlier branch of the clan, whose lineal descendant still beats the title of " MacGillycuddy of the Reeks."

    We have a choice of three routes by which to return to the town. If we have arranged for a boat to meet us at the, head of the Upper Lake, we can descend the southern side of the reeks into the Black VaUey/and so complete a

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 48

27. Cork Surrenders to Cromwell, 1649

    Cork · city · Cork · 1649

    On Cromwell's approach in 1649, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, the citizens of Cork surrendered. The city had previously declared for the royal cause of Charles I.

    Read the passage

    At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause ; but on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at

    dl Whennm due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song :-

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

28. Danish Plunder of Cork Settlement

    Cork · city · Cork

    After a century or two of quiet during which Cork's religious foundation became famous throughout Europe for learning, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the prosperous town nearby, then fortified an island in the stream as a raiding centre.

    Read the passage

    As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authorities ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the " holy friars " of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. The good man enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted disciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a century or two of quiet, during which the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood as well. Night coming on, the invaders are said to have repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advantages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly fortified, making it a centre from which to pillage the surrounding country. In course of time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestowing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal's territory. But though Kenry retained Cork in his own hands, the inhabitants of the island city seem , to have enjoyed an almost total independence, making their own laws, and,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

29. Dunloe Castle and its siege history

    Dunloe Castle · castle · Kerry · 1641

    Dunloe Castle stands on the summit of a small hill and was originally erected to defend the pass of the river and guard Dunloe Gap. It withstood severe struggles during the reigns of Henry and Elizabeth, and in the civil war of 1641 General Ludlow besieged it; the garrison surrendered only after the greater part of the fortress had been laid in ruins.

    Read the passage

    standing prominently on the summit of a small hill. It is a fine object in the landscape, and the views from it are extremely picturesque. Originally erected for the defence of the pass of the river and for guarding Dunloe Gap, the fortress withstood some severe struggles during the reigns of Henry and Elizabeth. In the civil war of 1641 General Ludlow besieged it ; the garrison made a brave defence and only surrendered when the greater part of the fortress had been laid m ruins. The castle has been adapted as a residence, but retains enough of its warlike character to show how capable of withstanding the brunt of combat it was in the brave days of old. The excursion to Dunloe Castle is frequently made by water, the row along the river Laune being particularly pleasing.

    Continuing the ride for another half-mile, we reach the entrance to the celebrated- Gap of Dunloe, and turn aside to examine a Cave, brought to light in 1838. Of circular shape, it was constructed of uncemented stones inclining inwards ; and on the larger stones of the roof were Ogham inscriptions, which tended to show that it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 54

30. Grand Parade's origins as dock with George II statue

    Grand Parade · street · Cork · 1780

    The Grand Parade, the widest street in Cork, stands on a large dock arched over in 1780. Previously the western side was known as Tuckey's Quay and the eastern as the Mall, connected by a bridge bearing an equestrian metal statue of George II colloquially known as "George-a-cock-horse."

    Read the passage

    A tew yards further we turn left into the Grand Parade, the widest street in Cork. It stands on what was once a ' large dock arched over in 1 780. Up to that time the western side was known as Tuckey's Quay, and the eastern as the fan tfie latter then a pleasant promenade, shaded with trees, the two sides were connected by a bridge on which stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, colloquially Known as " George-a-cock-horse." The Grand Parade is notable for an immense circular fountain which stands in the middle of the roadway. There is an inscription round it relating to one Berwick, but we are not aware that any one nas ever been known to make the extensive circuit for the sake of reading it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable Markets are on the Parade

    31

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 16

31. Kinsale under charter of Edward III and Spanish capture

    Kinsale · town · Cork · 1327–1690

    Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a 'sovereign' and other officials. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place, and it took part in all the struggles between Saxons and native Irish from Strongbow's time to its capture by Marlborough.

    Read the passage

    Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a " sovereign " and other officials. It has an interesting history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the " native Irish," from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the^last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by

    The^Old Head of Kinsale,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Kinsale, it is a town with a long and troubled history. It was once governed under a charter of Edward III, by a "sovereign" and other officials. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods. It took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the "native Irish," from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II landed here in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries it was the most important port on the coast. Though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, protected by the Old Head of Kinsale. It is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland, and its fishermen are daring seamen and good pilots.

32. Muckross Abbey and the Church of Irrelagh

    Muckross Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Kerry · 1192–1340

    Founded in 1340 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond, for Franciscan friars, Muckross Abbey sits on the site of the earlier Church of Irrelagh, which was burned around 1192. The ruins include a 100-foot church and well-preserved cloisters.

    Read the passage

    which occupies the site of the old-world Church of Irrelaeh (a name meaning " the building on the lough ") burned somewhere about i .92. The present ruins, however, are old enongh in all conscience, the Abbey, which was inhabited by Franciscan friars, having been founded in 1340 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. There are the remains of the church 100 feet long, consisting of choir, nave and transept. The breadth of the choir is about 25 feet and the transept is 35 feet in length. In the centre is a strong square tower. The transept is united to the nave by I lofty arch; on the opposite side a narrow doorway leads to the cloisters, the best preserved and most interesting part of the structure. The buildings form a square of 36 feet

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 43

33. Raleigh's defence of Midleton ford

    Midleton · town · Cork

    Near Midleton's distillery lies a ford which Sir Walter Raleigh defended single-handedly against Fitzgerald and his 'wild Irish rebels' until his own troops arrived. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth.

    Read the passage

    There is not much of interest in the journey from Cork to Youghal, except near the commencement, when after passing the riverside suburbs of Tivoli and Dunkettle, we skirt the northern shore of Lough Mahon (see p. 46), and have some pretty peeps down the harbour. At Queenstown Junction the main line trains proceed in a southerly direction to Queenstown, but we continue due eastward. Midleton (population 2,795), about half-way to Youghal, is a military centre, but derives its chief importance from its extensive whisky distillery and flour mills. Curran, the famous orator and statesman, was educated at the College here. Close to the distillery is the ford which Raleigh defended singlehanded against Fitzgerald and his " wild Irish rebels " till his own troops came up. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth, ch. xv. Midleton confers the title of viscount in the peerage of Ireland upon the Brodrick family.

    62

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 28

34. Sherkin Island Franciscan abbey and castle destroyed by Waterford citizens

    near Sherkin Island · townland · Cork

    Sherkin Island, about three miles long by two broad, of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford to punish the piratical proclivities of the O'Driscolls, owners of the island and surrounding islands and a slice of the mainland.

    Read the passage

    There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, commanding the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church has a fine tower. The Harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three miles long by two broad, and of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical proclivities of the O'Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

    The Schull and Skibbereen Light Railway,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 78

35. Whiddy Island church ruins and O'Sullivan Bere castle

    near Whiddy Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    Whiddy Island, formerly Lord Bantry's deer-park, contains relics of an old church with a cemetery and the ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O'Sullivan Bere on the eastern point. A black shaly substance found on the northern side was once valued locally for medicinal qualities.

    Read the passage

    formerly Lord Bantry' s deer-park, comprises an area of about 1,218 acres, and is remarkable for the diversified quality of its soil. A black shaly substance, soft and unctuous, resembling black-lead, found on the northern side, was at one time highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed medicinal qualities. There are some relics of an old church, with a cemetery attached ; and on the eastern point of the island are the ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O' Sullivan Bere. Though apparently so near, it is almost a mile and three-quarters from Bantry. At Bantry, we are at the end of —

    The Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 76

36. Ogham cave discovered at Gap of Dunloe entrance

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry · 1838

    A circular cave constructed of uncemented stones inclining inwards was brought to light in 1838 at the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe. Ogham inscriptions on the larger stones of the roof suggested it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture.

    Read the passage

    Continuing the ride for another half-mile, we reach the entrance to the celebrated- Gap of Dunloe, and turn aside to examine a Cave, brought to light in 1838. Of circular shape, it was constructed of uncemented stones inclining inwards ; and on the larger stones of the roof were Ogham inscriptions, which tended to show that it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture.

    Ill

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 54

37. Father Prout author of The Bells of Shandon

    near Shandon · locality · Cork · 1804–1866

    Francis Sylvester Mahony, better known as 'Father Prout,' was born at Cork in 1804. Educated for the priesthood, he drifted into journalism and wrote the famous lyric 'The Bells of Shandon,' celebrating the bells of Shandon and the river Lee.

    Read the passage

    The literary associations of Cork are of considerable interest. One of its most notable sons was Francis Sylvester Mahony, better known as " Father Prout." Born at Cork in 1804, and educated for the priesthood, he drifted into journalism, and spent the greater part of his life in London, being associated with the Daily News at the time of Charles Dickens's editorship, and writing the " Inauguration Ode " for Thackeray's Cotnhill Magazine. He died in Paris in 1866, being then correspondent of the Globe. Perhaps the best remembered of Father Prout' s works is the fine lyric on —

    The Bells of Shandon.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 17

38. Glenflesk and Owen MacCarthy's outlaw den

    near Glenflesk · population centre · Kerry

    Glenflesk is a richly-wooded valley through which the River Flesk carries surplus waters of Lough Guittane to the Lower Lake. Filadown, its most picturesque part, was the retreat of outlaw Owen MacCarthy, whose den, Labig Owen, is a small cavern halfway up the Demon's Cliff.

    Read the passage

    should be visited by every tourist ; it lies to the south-east of the town. The most beautiful spots may easily be reached from the railway station at Headford, eight miles from Killarney ; but it is best to drive through the glen on an outside car, as in that way its features can be seen at leisure. The glen is a richly- wooded valley through which the Flesh carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen, and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of cascades over the barriers which obstruct its path. Filadown, the most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated ^ outlaw, Owen MacCarthy ; his den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon's Cliff. Near the upper entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O'Donoghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the old church. The Druids' Circles at Lissivigeen should be inspected ; and we can also visit Flesk Castle, which stands on a picturesque, wooded knoll round the base of which the river sweeps in eddying currents. An extensive panoramic view of the Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed from the castle terrace. The road home leads us past —

    Lough Guittane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 58

39. MacCarthy Yields Cork to Henry II

    Cork · city · Cork

    At the time of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, possessed Cork and was the first Irish chief to acknowledge Henry II's sovereignty. Henry rewarded him by occupying his capital and granting most of his territory to knights FitzStephen and de Cogan.

    Read the passage

    As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authorities ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the " holy friars " of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. The good man enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted disciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a century or two of quiet, during which the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood as well. Night coming on, the invaders are said to have repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advantages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly fortified, making it a centre from which to pillage the surrounding country. In course of time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestowing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal's territory. But though Kenry retained Cork in his own hands, the inhabitants of the island city seem , to have enjoyed an almost total independence, making their own laws, and,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

40. St. Ann's Church, Shandon, and its bells

    near Shandon · locality · Cork · 1722

    St. Ann's Church at Shandon dates from 1722 and is famous for its bells, which inspired Father Prout's lyric and gave William Black the title for his novel 'Shandon Bells.' The pepper-box-like steeple has two colours and a tower clock with four dials visible from nearly all parts of the city.

    Read the passage

    the bells of which gave rise to Father Prout's lyric {see p 25) and. also provided the late Wm. Black with a title for his well-known novel, Shandon Bells. We have already drawn attention to the two colours of its pepper-box-like steeple, but otherwise the building does not call for comment. It dates from 1722. There are quaint inscriptions on the bells, one of which states that " Abel Rudhall, of Glo'ster, made us all." The tower clock has four dials and can be seen from nearly all parts of the city. Father Prout was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower.

    Just beyond and above Shandon Church is St. Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0

41. Timoleague Abbey founded by MacCarthys, 1372

    Timoleague · town · Cork · 1372–1518

    Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua, its name deriving from ty-Mologua, 'the house of Mologua.' It was the largest religious house in County Cork, with remains including nave, choir, south transept, and a square tower 68 feet high added in 1518 by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross.

    Read the passage

    The former residence of the Earls of Shannon is now the Esplanade Hotel. Time-league Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua (hence its name, derived from ty-Mologua, "the house of Mologua"). It was the largest of the many religious houses in the county of Cork. The visitor is not, therefore, surprised at the grandeur of the remains, which comprise the nave, choir and south transept, with a beautiful square tower, 68 feet high, added by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross, in 15 18.

    Timoleague is three miles to the west, at the head of the bay, and possesses a station.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Timoleague, the abbey here was the largest religious house in County Cork. The MacCarthys erected it in 1372 and dedicated it to St. Mologua, whose name gives the place its meaning, from ty-Mologua, "the house of Mologua." The remains still show the nave, choir, and south transept, with a square tower 68 feet high added in 1518 by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross.

42. Aghadoe ruins: round tower, castle, and cathedral

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry · 600–1300

    Aghadoe contains the remains of a round tower, a round castle known as the 'Bishop's Chair,' and a cathedral with nave and choir. The round tower fragment is about 12 feet high with superior masonry, while the castle is about 30 feet high with 7-foot-thick walls, thought to date from the ninth century. The cathedral's nave is believed to date from the seventh century and features a Romanesque doorway in its western wall.

    Read the passage

    The remains consist of a church, a round tower and a round castle. Only a part of the lower storey of the Round Tower remains ; it is easy to ascend, the height of the fragment being only about 12 feet. It measures in outer circumference 52 feet ; the thickness of its wall was & feet. The stones, laid in regular courses, are large and well dressed ;

    110 DUNLOE CASTLE

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 54

43. Aghadoe Ruins: Saint Finian's shrine and Pulpit

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Near Aghadoe House and the Catholic Church stand the Aghadoe Ruins, identified as Saint Finian's ancient shrine and the Pulpit, perhaps the Bishop's palace. These antiquities lie along the road from Beaufort Bridge toward Killarney.

    Read the passage

    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churchtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O' Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O'Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian's ancient shrine, and the Pulpit — perhaps the Bishop's palace.

    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen — rarely visited — and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag's Glen shall be waiting for them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 49

44. Bantry name derivation from Beann

    Bantry · town · Cork · 1–100

    The town's name may derive from 'Ban-tra' meaning 'the white strand,' though Dr. Joyce suggests it comes from Beann, son of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century and ancient owner of the district.

    Read the passage

    Refreshment Room at station. Bantry is said to derive its name from Ban-tra, the a white strand." The strand is indisputable, though the construction of the pier, and sea-wall has improved a great part of it out of existence, but we do not see where the whiteness comes in. Probably Dr. Joyce is more correct in deriving the name from Beann (Ban), one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century, and ancient owner of this district. Most people simply go through Bantry without making a stay, but one or two days can be profitably spent in the little market town. There is a good bathing-stage, and the bay affords every facility for yachting and boating. The town stands near the head of the spacious bay of the same name.

    The visitor should, if time allows, call at the Bantry Woollen Mills. Here he will find an interesting example of an industry which was ones a leading one in Ireland, and which, from the strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same position again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability which are gaining such an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill, to which access can readily be had, is only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel ; and the wool, which is grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the beautiful view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks— Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry, near the head of its spacious bay, the question of where the town got its name is worth turning over. Some say it comes from Ban-tra, meaning the white strand. The strand itself is indisputable, though the pier and sea-wall have built much of it out of existence, and the whiteness is not something you can easily see. Dr. Joyce is probably more correct. He traces the name to Beann, one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century, and the ancient owner of this district. So the town may carry the name of a man who held this land nearly two thousand years ago. Most people pass straight through Bantry without a stay, but the guide says a day or two can be spent in the little market town. There is a bathing-stage, and the bay affords every facility for yachting and boating. The Bantry Woollen Mills are worth a call if time allows. The wool comes from the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, and you can see it in every stage of manufacture. The mill is only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel. Bantry is the seat of considerable sea-borne trade, with small coasting vessels moored off the town. The chief feature is the view down the bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks: Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

45. Camden's 1600 Description of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1600

    In 1600, Camden described Cork as an oval walled city, environed and intersected by the river, passable only by bridges. He called it a trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require constant watch.

    Read the passage

    In 1600, Camden describes the city as « of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one .strait street continued by a bridge ; it is, however a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged

    At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause ; but on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

46. Kinsale's Spanish-origin houses and old fort

    Kinsale · town · Cork · 1690

    Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill at the mouth of the river Bandon, with houses of evident Spanish origin rising tier above tier on rock-excavated sites. The ruins of an old fort, deemed impregnable until it fell to Marlborough in 1690, add character to the outlook.

    Read the passage

    Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon. It has a quaint appearance, its houses, many of which are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some being perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river ; and the ruins of the old fort, which was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, add piquancy to the outlook. There is a charming public walk, shaded by trees, around Compass Hill, which commands a series of good views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove (the favourite quarters of summer visitors), and the entire neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church, dedicated to, and said to have been built by, a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions than the lower portion, terminating in a broach spire.

    Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a " sovereign " and other officials. It has an interesting history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the " native Irish," from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the^last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along Kinsale, the town climbs the slope of Compass Hill at the mouth of the river Bandon. Its houses rise tier above tier, many of them plainly of Spanish origin, built on sites cut out of solid rock, some perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river. The ruins of the old fort add to the outlook, a fort once thought impregnable until it fell to Marlborough in 1690. That capture marked the end of Stuart hopes. James II had landed at Kinsale in 1689 to begin the campaign that ended badly for him at the Boyne. But the town's story runs deeper. The Spaniards captured and held the place repeatedly over the centuries. It stood in every struggle between the Saxons and the native Irish, from the time Strongbow first brought it under the English crown. It was once the most important port on the coast, though it has long since yielded to Queenstown. The harbour remains capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the fisheries of the south of Ireland. Its fishermen are daring seamen and good pilots. There is also the Parish Church, said to have been built by a female saint, St. Multose, in the 14th century. It is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage smaller than the lower, ending in a broach spire. A public walk shaded by trees runs around Compass Hill, commanding views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove, and the entire neighbourhood.

47. St. Patrick's Street built over river branch

    Saint Patrick's Street · street · Cork

    St. Patrick's Street, the principal shopping thoroughfare of Cork, has a semicircular shape because it is built on arches over a former deep branch of the river where ships were laden and unladen.

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    the "Regent Street" of Cork, a thoroughfare lined with handsome shops and hotels, but sadly lacking in uniformity, the seeker for souvenirs and suitable presents for the home folk is not likely to find a better place for shopping in the outh of Ireland. The semicircular shape of the street is accounted for by the fact that it is built on arches over what was once a deep and important branch of the river, in which ships were laden and unladen. In the bend one notices on the left the Victoria Hotel.

    Winthrop Street leads from St. Patrick's Street to George's Street where stands the Chief Post Office, a handsome stonefronted building, recently erected at a cost of ^40,000. Lower down are the Imperial Hotel and Commercial Buildings.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 16

48. Tynte's Castle in Youghal Main Street

    Youghal · town · Cork

    An ancient tower known as Tynte's Castle stands in Youghal's Main Street, on the right-hand side coming from the Clock Tower. The Clock Gate itself stands on the site of the ancient South Gate.

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    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte's Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary's Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the '"great" Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl's agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell's

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : " All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent in6Il a£d .necessaries> with my rapier and dagger." Before his death his income was at the rate of £5o a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks, ' '

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 29

49. Bantry woollen mills industry

    Bantry · town · Cork

    The Bantry Woollen Mills, located near Vickery's Hotel, represent a reviving Irish woollen industry. Wool from hardy native mountain sheep of the district can be seen in every stage of manufacture, producing friezes, tweeds, and homespuns.

    Read the passage

    The visitor should, if time allows, call at the Bantry Woollen Mills. Here he will find an interesting example of an industry which was ones a leading one in Ireland, and which, from the strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same position again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability which are gaining such an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill, to which access can readily be had, is only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel ; and the wool, which is grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the beautiful view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks— Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

    Bantry House, the seat of Mr. Leigh-White, nephew of the late Earl of Bantry (the title is now extinct), should on no account be missed. It is the show-place of the town. Follow the main street seaward from the hotels, skirting the water s edge. At the end of the long line of wharves is a solid stone gatehouse, by which admission is gained. Visitors are allowed

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry, there's a woollen mill worth knowing about. The Bantry Woollen Mills sit only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel, and they show an industry that was once leading in Ireland and is making strides toward that position again. The wool comes from hardy native mountain sheep of the district, and you can see it in every stage of manufacture. The cloth they make — friezes, tweeds, and homespuns — has gained a reputation for absolute purity and durability. Access to the mill can readily be had if time allows. Beyond the mills, Bantry is the seat of considerable sea-borne trade, and small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature is the view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks — Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains. Bantry House, the seat of Mr. Leigh-White, nephew of the late Earl of Bantry — the title is now extinct — should not be missed. It is the show-place of the town. Follow the main street seaward from the hotels, skirting the water's edge. At the end of the long line of wharves is a solid stone gatehouse, by which admission is gained. Visitors are allowed.

50. Cashel Cathedral burnt by Earl of Kildare

    Cashel · town · Tipperary · 1495

    The ruins of the old Cathedral on the summit of the Rock of Cashel are among the finest in the country. In 1495 the edifice was burnt by the Earl of Kildare because he thought the archbishop was within, an explanation that gained him appointment as lord-deputy.

    Read the passage

    five and three-quarter miles to the south. Passengers can travel direct from Dublin to " Cashel of the Kings " without change of carriage. Few places in Ireland are of greater interest historically than this ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city. The ruins of the old Cathedral on the summit

    14 DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY AND CORK

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming up on Cashel, the place they called the city of Kings. The old Cathedral's ruins sit on the summit, among the finest in the country. In 1495 the Earl of Kildare burnt it down because he believed the archbishop was inside. That earned him appointment as lord-deputy.

51. Derreen, seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne

    Derreen · townland · Kerry

    Derreen, located across the bay from Parknasilla, is the seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Though described as a delightful haven, the Marquis does not permit a hotel to be erected there.

    Read the passage

    area of fifty-eight acres. Boating, bathing, fishing, and mountain-climbing may all be enjoyed to perfection in this favoured locality. The adventurous may row or sail right across the bay to Derreen, the seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Derreen would make just such another delightful haven for the holiday-maker as Parknasilla or Glengariff , but his lordship will not permit the erection of a hotel.

    Parknasilla to Kenmare.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 67

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Derreen, somewhere around here, is the seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne. You could row or sail right across the bay to reach it. It would make just such another delightful haven as Parknasilla or Glengariff, but his lordship will not permit the erection of a hotel.

52. Drake's Pool, Cork Harbour

    Drake's Pool · minor feature · Cork

    Sir Francis Drake, in command of five sloops, was pursued by the Spanish fleet into Cork Harbour. He eluded the Spaniards by hiding among the wooded inlets, leading the Spanish to abandon their search and depart.

    Read the passage

    Spanish fleet which was desirous of making his.^further acquaintance. With his five little sloops he made for Cork harbour, and was by the Spaniards clearly seen to enter. The tactics which served the Americans in 1898, when Admiral Cervera was in similar plight at Santiago, did not serve Cervera's predecessors in the days of Queen Bess. Instead of waiting quietly until Drake should come out, the Spaniards went in to look for him. They scoured the harbour from east to west, and from north to south, exploring as they thought every creek, winding and channel, but Drake was not to be seen. For days the search continued, and at length the Spaniards, attributing his disappearance to magic, thought well to disappear also. Upon which out came Drake with his merry men from behind those very woods which seem to mark the water's limit ! The secluded spot has since been known as Drake's Pool.

    Crosshaven.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 24

53. Earl of Kildare Invests Cork, 1498

    Cork · city · Cork · 1498

    Still under suspicion after the Perkin Warbeck affair, Cork was invested by the Earl of Kildare with a strong force in 1498. Every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII.

    Read the passage

    what was far worse, their own money The English Parliament went the length of calling the Cork coinage utterly damned," an outbreak of temper which was perhaps excusable, but not deified. The Cork people of those day seem to have possessed a genius for aggravation for, ^ while declining to send representatives to Parliament they turned deaf ears to the solicitations of the tax gatherer on the ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour, and the mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, losing his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter ; and, being still suspect, was invested in H98 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong orce when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. When it was intend ed to ] proc aim Tames I, the mayor took upon himself to ask the Lords Commissioners what were the king's intentions m the matter of freedom of conscience, and failing to obtain a satisfactory answer clapt "my lords" into Shandon Castle, pending furtner information. When it was found that James was not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclamation, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason.

    In 1600, Camden describes the city as « of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one .strait street continued by a bridge ; it is, however a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

54. Father Prout buried at Shandon

    near Shandon · locality · Cork

    Father Prout, the lyricist who immortalised the bells of Shandon, was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower of St. Ann's Church. His connection to the church is commemorated through his famous lyric about its bells.

    Read the passage

    the bells of which gave rise to Father Prout's lyric {see p 25) and. also provided the late Wm. Black with a title for his well-known novel, Shandon Bells. We have already drawn attention to the two colours of its pepper-box-like steeple, but otherwise the building does not call for comment. It dates from 1722. There are quaint inscriptions on the bells, one of which states that " Abel Rudhall, of Glo'ster, made us all." The tower clock has four dials and can be seen from nearly all parts of the city. Father Prout was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower.

    Just beyond and above Shandon Church is St. Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0

55. Glengariff's Alpine valley described by S.C. Hall

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    S.C. Hall describes Glengariff as a deep Alpine valley enclosed by precipitous hills, about three miles long and seldom exceeding a quarter mile in breadth, enriched with wood and water. Thackeray remarked that were such a bay on English shores it would be a world's wonder.

    Read the passage

    " Language utterly fails," declares Mr. S. C. Hall, " to convey even a limited idea of the exceeding beauty of Glengariff, which merits to the full the enthusiastic praise that has been lavished upon it by every traveller by whom it has been visited. It is a deep Alpine valley, enclosed by precipitous hills, about three miles in length, and seldom exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks embosom, as it were, a scene of surpassing loveliness, endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water ; for the trees are graceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied in character, and the rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming cataract are supplied from a thousand rills collected in the mountains. Beyond all, is the magnificent bay, with its numerous islands, by one of which it is so guarded and sheltered as to receive the aspect of a serene lake. The artist cannot do it justice, and the pen must be laid aside in despair."

    In the glen itself the sternest grandeur is softened by the tenderest loveliness. " Mountains are rent and rifted as if some convulsion of nature had shaken ancT torn them, upheaving their strata and serrating their wild summits, whilst their bases repose in woods and meadows of the softest verdure. Peaks rise above peaks lofty and bald, merging their frowning rocks in the shifting Atlantic mists ; beneath are smiling valleys, gemmed with myriads of flowers."

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the Alpine valley S.C. Hall called Glengariff. He said language utterly fails to convey even a limited idea of its exceeding beauty, and that it merits the enthusiastic praise lavished on it by every traveller who has visited it. It is a deep Alpine valley, enclosed by precipitous hills, about three miles long and seldom exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks embosom a scene of surpassing loveliness, endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water. The trees are graceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied in character. The rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming cataract are supplied from a thousand rills collected in the mountains. Beyond all is the magnificent bay, with its numerous islands, guarded and sheltered by one of them so that it has the aspect of a serene lake. The artist cannot do it justice, and the pen must be laid aside in despair. Thackeray remarked that were such a bay on English shores it would be a world's wonder. In the glen itself the sternest grandeur is softened by the tenderest loveliness. Mountains are rent and rifted as if some convulsion of nature had shaken and torn them, up heaving their strata and serrating their wild summits, whilst their bases repose in woods and meadows of the softest verdure. Peaks rise above peaks lofty and bald, merging their frowning rocks in the shifting Atlantic mists. Beneath are smiling valleys, gemmed with myriads of flowers.

56. Marlborough's Siege of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    After the deposition of James II, Churchill appeared before Cork's walls at the head of an Orange army and took the city after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely for its Stuart loyalty.

    Read the passage

    dl Whennm due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song :-

    24

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

57. Mitchelstown caves with stalactite chambers

    Mitchelstown · townland · Cork

    The celebrated caves near Mitchelstown contain rich stalactite formations and named chambers including the House of Commons, the House of Lords, the Organ, and Sadleir's Cave. They are reached via railway from Fermoy, about ten miles to the south.

    Read the passage

    Fermoy is pleasantly situated on the Blackwater, and contains nearly seven thousand inhabitants, besides the troops, both infantry and cavalry, quartered in the large barracks. Being comparatively modern, there is little in the town to interest the tourist, but it is a good centre for anglers, and, having railway communication with Mitchelstown, about ten miles to the north, is a convenient spot from which to visit the celebrated caves and castle {see our Guide to Water ford). The caves are smaller than the Peak Cavern, but are richer than it in stalactites. They are more extensive than Cox's Cave at Cheddar but less beautiful. A low narrow passage gives place to a tunnel of ampler dimensions, leading to a large, circular chamber called the House of Commons. Near this another passage leads past a number of fluted musical columns, appropriately named the " Organ," to the House of Lords, a capacious and well-lighted cavern containing many beautiful and fantastic formations. From the House of Commons access is obtained to Sadleir's Cave, containing an immense stalactite that ha* been humorously

    72

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 34

58. Owenabwee (Carrigaline River) and Drake's escape

    Carrigaline · town · Cork · 1587

    The Carrigaline River, also called the Owenabwee or 'Amber Water,' extends inland for about twenty miles after a sharp twist. In 1587 Admiral Sir Francis Drake reportedly used it to escape after attacking the Spanish fleet.

    Read the passage

    Carlisle Fort frowns above us on the east, and to the west we have a much indented coast-line, backed by hills and woods. Nearing Currabinny we sight to the right what is apparently a wide creek running inland as far as some woods, a mile or so away. , To this creek a pretty story is attached which Englishmen cannot but love to hear. In the first place the creek is not a creek at all, but a river, known variously as the Carrigaline River, or the Owenabwee, " Amber Water." Then, instead of a seeming course of one mile, it extends inland, after a sharp twist, for something like twenty miles, further, in fact, than to Kinsale Junction, on the Bandon line. For the first five miles or so, to the Carrigaline road, the water is fairly deep, and navigable at high tide. In the year 1587 Admiral Sir Francis Drake, having singed the Spaniard's beard and committed other enormities, found it convenient to show a glean pair of heels to a powerful

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 23

59. Ringrone Castle built by Milo de Courcey

    Ringrone · townland · Cork · 1181

    Ringrone Castle was built by Milo de Courcey, ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland, a title going back to 1181. De Courcey was King John's champion against Philip of France and won the privilege of remaining covered in the sovereign's presence.

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    a bold promontory, the name of which — derived from ceann saille, " a headland in the sea " — is happily descriptive. The summit is crowned by a lighthouse. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and Ringrone Castle, the latter of which was built by Milo de Courcey, the ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland (the title goes back to 118 1). De Courcey was selected by King John as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France ; and, being adjudged the conqueror— his rival ran away without striking a blow — received as a reward for his gallantry the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

    KINS ALE l73

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Ringrone stand the ruins of a castle built by Milo de Courcey, ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland, a title that goes back to 1181. De Courcey was chosen by King John as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France. His rival ran away without striking a blow, and De Courcey was adjudged the conqueror. As a reward for his gallantry he received the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of the sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

60. Rosscarbery's ancient university and abbey of St. Faughnan

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 1612

    According to Hanmer, Rosscarbery was once the site of a famous university. St. Faughnan founded an abbey there, whose church became the cathedral of a new see with the saint as first bishop. In 1612 the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site and the old abbey left to decay.

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    Rosscarbery Bay indents the coast somewhat deeply to the west of Galley Head. Hanmer tells us that the town was once the site of " a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning's sake." The place acquired great celebrity from the sanctity of St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh, in county Waterford, who, removing to Rosscarbery, founded an abbey here. The church of this abbey was in due time made into the cathedral of a new see, of which the saint became the first bishop. In 16 12, the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey and its church were allowed to decay. Its ruins are now to the south of the cathedral, a carved head in the south wall being

    CO UR TMA CSHERR Y—BA NDON 1 69

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ross Carbery in Cork, you are near a place Hanmer called the site of a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning's sake. St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh in county Waterford, moved here and founded an abbey whose church became the cathedral of a new see, with the saint as its first bishop. In 1612 the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site and the old abbey was left to decay. Its ruins now lie south of the cathedral, with a carved head still set in the south wall.