Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. The Pass of Keimaneigh — "the pass of the deer"

   near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

   A stern defile over a mile and a quarter in length, regarded as perhaps the finest mountain pass in Ireland. The mountain appears to have been split apart by a mighty convulsion, with matching strata visible on both sides of the deep cleft.

   Read the passage

   " the pass of the deer," is a stern defile, more than a mile and a quarter in length, and probably the finest thing of its kind in Ireland, though some would be disposed to give the preference to the Pass of Ballaghbeama in Kerry (see p. 132). The mountain appears to have been rent asunder by some mighty convulsion, and the minute correspondence and similarity of the strata on each side is apparent in many places. There is only just room in the deep cleft for the narrow road and the torrent which foams beside it. Great cracked masses of rock are poised above, and threaten at my moment to fall.

   The summit of the pass is 700 feet above sea-level, and s the highest part of the route. On emerging, we round :he unmistakable Sheehy Mountain, and have the river Iwvane for company all the way down the long descent to 3antry Bay. The views ahead are, in clear weather, superb. Vbout midway we pass the Castle of Carrignass (" Rock of he Waterfall "), a former seat of the omnipresent O'Sullivans, md in very fair preservation. At the head of the bay, the oad turns leftward to Bantry (see p. 161), four miles, and lghtward to Glengariff (p. 153), seven miles.

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2. Turnpike rocks and the cannon echo at Gap of Dunloe

   near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

   Near Black Lough where the valley narrows, curious rocks called the Turnpike mark the point where cars cannot proceed and ponies must be used. A man fires a small cannon for sixpence a shot, producing remarkable echoes that rebound between the peaks and precipices of the Purple Mountain and the Reeks.

   Read the passage

   Close to Black Lough, where the valley narrows so as to leave scarcely room for the road and the stream, we come to some curious rocks, called the Turnpike. As cars cannot proceed farther, it is usual to have ponies waiting here. Sometimes a man will come forward, and, for sixpence a shot, or cheaper " if a quantity are taken," fire a small cannon. The effect is wonderful. A thousand repetitions spring from the mountain, caverns and hollows ; a perfect torrent of thunder rushes from the peaks and ravines and is hurled back by the precipices of the Purple Mountain. Again the assault of sound is made on the Reeks, and repulsed from the Purple Rocks ; and this conflict of sound goes on between rock and rock, booming like a great piece of ordnance, until,

   Killarney {i)

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 55

3. Blarney Castle and the famous stone

   near Blarney · townland · Cork

   Blarney Castle, with its famous stone, lies about a mile and a half west of Blarney station in an extensive hollow amid the Groves of Blarney. It is reached after passing the stations at Mourne Abbey and Rathduff.

   Read the passage

   If the tourist intends, instead of proceeding direct to Killarney, to travel via the " Prince of Wales," or via the Macroom Route, he continues along the main line to Cork. The country is of a pretty, pastoral character, with an imposing background of mountains, but calls for no remark until, after passing the stations at Mourne Abbey and RathdurT,' Blarney is reached. The famous Castle, with its still more famous stone, lies about a mile and a half to the west, in an extensive hollow, amid the " Groves of Blarney." Another three or four miles and we plunge into a long tunnel, emerging in the north-eastern part of Cork (ref. room at station).

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4. Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art

   Cork · city · Cork · 1885

   The Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art occupy the site of the old Custom House in Cork, granted by the Crown to the Corporation in 1883. The new buildings were the gift of William H. Crawford and opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885, containing classrooms and a gallery of works by Cork artists.

   Read the passage

   The Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art. {Visitors are admitted to the museum, class rooms, and lecture theatre daily, Sundays excepted, from 10.0 to 10.0.) This important institution occupies the site of the old Custom House, which having been used by the Royal Cork Institution till it ceased to exist, was granted by the Crown to the Corporation m 1883 for the erection of the schools. The new buildings were'the gift of the late Mr. William H. Crawford (hence their name), and were opened by the then Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885. In addition to classrooms for painting, lacemaking, modelling, and other subjects, there is a small sculpture and picture gallery, containing a collection of works by Cork artists, headed, as is only proper, by Machse. The

   42 CORK

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   As the companion tells it

   In Cork you have the Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art, occupying the site of the old Custom House. That building had been used by the Royal Cork Institution until it ceased to exist, and the site was granted by the Crown to the Corporation in 1883 for the erection of the schools. The new buildings were the gift of the late Mr. William H. Crawford, hence their name, and were opened by the then Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885. As well as classrooms for painting, lacemaking, modelling, and other subjects, there is a small sculpture and picture gallery containing a collection of works by Cork artists, headed, as the guide puts it, "as is only proper, by Machse."

5. Cromwell's Tower at St. Mary's

   Youghal · town · Cork

   The massive tower of St. Mary's Church in Youghal has a height of 50 feet and is known as Cromwell's Tower, connecting the church to the Cromwellian occupation of the town.

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   The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte's Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary's Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the '"great" Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl's agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell's

   * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : " All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent in6Il a£d .necessaries> with my rapier and dagger." Before his death his income was at the rate of £5o a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks, ' '

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 29

6. Fitzgerald Park and Cork International Exhibition

   near Fitzgerald Park · street · Cork · 1902–1903

   The ground north of the Mardyke formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition of 1902-3 and was afterwards converted into a public park named Fitzgerald Park in honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition.

   Read the passage

   But the encroachments of the builder have robbed the Mardyke of much of its charm, and it cannot for a moment compare with the Marina, at the other end of the city {see P- 42). The ground to the north formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition, 1902-3, and has now been converted into a public park, known as Fitzgerald Park, in - honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition.

   On the other side of the North River, and reached by ferry or by the Wellington Bridge, near the end of the Mardyke, is the district of—

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 16

7. Gap of Dunloe: wild gorge between Tomies and Macgillycuddy Reeks

   near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

   The Gap of Dunloe is a wild gorge running almost due south for about four miles, separating Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks. Its gates are almost perpendicular rocks, with hills on either side called the Holly and Bull Mountains, and a small stream traversing the valley that expands into gloomy lakes.

   Read the passage

   The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks, and running almost due south for about four miles. The gates of this romantic valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarcely give room for the road. The hills on either side are spurs of the great mountains, called respectively the Holly and Bull Mountains. A small stream traverses the valley, expanding in places into gloomy lakes, called the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes, remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters. The farthest of them, Black Lough, exceeds the others in this respect and in coldness. While the other lakelets abound in fish, this has none ; and Paddy assures us that this is due to the fact that the lake is the identical spot where St. Patrick drowned the last serpent.

   Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side in wild confusion, apparently ready to topple over and crush the visitor. The narrow torrent is twice crossed by the road, the brawling waters intensifying the desolate but sublime character of the scene. As we advance, the outline of the mountains changes. Huge boulders appear above the path, and shattered fragments of rock strew the steep mountain slopes. The Purple Mountain, with all its chromatic beauties ; the Tomies, with its glowing lights and intense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their aspiring summits ; then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold, still, and silent as death, combine to make a picture which has no equal in Killarney. It is a scene of utter solitude and desolation — a picture of the valley of the shadow of death. In a distance of about two miles after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road rises some 400 feet, the way being encumbered with rocks.

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8. The Long Range connecting the Killarney Lakes

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   The three Killarney lakes—Upper, Middle (Tore), and Lower (Lough Leane)—are joined by a winding stream known as the Long Range. Sir Walter Scott reportedly considered the Long Range superior to any scenery in the Scottish lake district.

   Read the passage

   The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery surrounding the famous lakes, which are three in number, known respectively as the Upper ; the Middle, or Tore ; and the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane. The lakes are connected by a tortuous stream, called the Long Range, which winds in and out in the most pleasant manner. The lakes are fed by a number of mountain streams, their surplus water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour, on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was admitted by Sir Walter Scott to be finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature ; and after exploring the lakes as recommended in the following pages, we believe most tourists will agree with Thackeray when he pronounces them " too handsome."

   If the visitor is pressed for time and does not fear fatigue, he may, by " galloping over the lakes in one day," get a glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so, he may proceed by Aghadoe ; visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran Tual, descending by the Black Valley ; and return by boat through the lakes. Or he may proceed back through the Gap of Dunloe, and home by Lord Brandon's Cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagles' Nest, Tore and Muckross. Another one day excursion is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O' Sullivan's Cascade, Innisf alien and Ross.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 42

9. Two lighthouses erected on Skellig Michael in 1826

   near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry · 1826

   Two lighthouses were built on the island in 1826 and connected by a road cut along the face of the cliff. The island is an enormous mass of slaty rock divided into two pyramidal summits, the higher reaching about 700 feet.

   Read the passage

   about nine miles from Bolus Head, the southern cape of county Kerry, and some twelve to the south-west of Bray Head. They are the favourite haunt of sea-birds, notably gannets ; at times, indeed, they are nearly covered with them. The larger island is an enormous mass of slaty rock, divided, at the height of about fifty yards, into two pyramidal summits, the higher of which reaches an altitude of some 700 feet ; the other is 100 feet lower. In early times there was a monastery here, the ruins of which may still be seen ; but the island was devastated by the Danes in 812, and the monks were starved in their cells. Until recently, the island was a place of penance, and was annually visited by great numbers of devotees, who climbed the highest summits, stopping at various stations and performing orisons at each. Two lighthouses were erected on the island in 1826 and are connected by a road along the face of the cliff.

   Cahirciveen to Parknasilla.

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10. Ascent of the Sugarloaf above Bantry Bay

    Sugarloaf Hill · hill or hills · Tipperary

    The Sugarloaf, rising 1,887 feet near Castletown Bearhaven, offered a full-day mountain ascent via the Bearhaven road. From the south-eastern slope and summit, a fine view of the whole extent of Bantry Bay was gained.

    Read the passage

    The mountaineer may care to make the ascent of the Sugarloaf (1,887 feet). The distance is about seven miles from the Eccles Hotel, but a whole day will be required and lunch should be taken. As there are several routes to the summit, local guidance should be sought, but a fairly simple ascent may be made by following the Bearhaven road until about a mile beyond the inlet known as Cooberagh Harbour. Here turn to the right and ascend the south-eastern slope of the mountain. A fine view is gained of the whole extent of Bantry Bay.

    Half a mile on the Castletown Bearhaven road is an iron gate. Here there is a road to the right passing Lady Bantry's Look-Out, which affords a capital evening walk for those who wish to see really effective colour. By taking a sharp road to the right one comes back to the main road again.

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11. Beehive oratory on Church Island, Lough Currane

    Church Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 500–599

    Church Island, the largest islet on Lough Currane, holds the ruins of a beehive oratory built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the sixth century. The lake is the second largest in Kerry, its surface broken by numerous islets.

    Read the passage

    about eight miles in circumference, and second only in point of size in Kerry to the Lower Lake at Killarney. Its surface is broken by numerous islets, on the largest of which, Church Island, are the ruins of a beehive oratory, built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the sixth century. The lake is fed by the river Cummaragh, which conveys into it the overflow of Loughs Derriana and Cloonaghlin and of other mountain

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12. Giant's Stairs and the O'Mahony giant tradition

    Passage West · town · Cork

    The steep sandstone rock ledges on the Passage side of the channel separating the mainland from Great Island are known as the Giant's Stairs. Local tradition attributes their construction to a giant named O'Mahony, member of the powerful Mahony sept, from whom Lough Mahon takes its name.

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    A comparatively narrow channel separates the mainland from Great Island, on which Queenstown stands. The ledges of steep sandstone rock on the Passage side are known as the Giant's Stairs, and are said to have been constructed by the giant O'Mahony, a member of the powerful sept of Mahonys, from whom Lough Mahon takes its name. Glenbrook, where is the next station, is a growing village much favoured by Cork people for summer residence. The Royal Victoria Hotel and Baths will arrest the eye by their curious construction, suggestive of primitive lake dwellings, though it is only fair to say that there is nothing primitive about the hotel itself, which is a very comfortable place of residence. The saltwater swimming-bath is 200 feet by 30 feet. Special bathers' tickets are issued from Cork at reduced rates, which include fare and bath.

    half a mile further south, is believed to derive its name from a colony of Benedictine monks. The place contains the ruins of an Elizabethan fortified residence, known diversely as Monkstown Castle and O'Mahony's Castle. Tradition declares Anstatia Goold, whose lord, one John Archdecken, was fighting under Philip of Spain (possibly against his lawful sovereign), feeling " lonesome like " during his long absence from home, conceived the idea of erecting this castle to while away the time and to surprise him on his return. Being, like John Gilpin's spouse, of a frugal mind, she shrewdly stipulated that the workmen should buy all their food from her. They either^ lived very extravagantly, or were greatly overcharged, for^the lady's profits were so considerable that it was,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 22

13. James II lands at Kinsale, 1689

    Kinsale · town · Cork · 1689

    James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the south coast of Ireland.

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    Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a " sovereign " and other officials. It has an interesting history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the " native Irish," from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the^last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by

    The^Old Head of Kinsale,

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    As the companion tells it

    Kinsale has a long and unsettled history. The Spaniards captured and held the place more than once, for longer or shorter periods. It stood in every struggle between the Saxons and the native Irish, from the time Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered. It is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by the Old Head of Kinsale.

14. Rosscarbery Abbey ruins and carved founder head

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork

    The ruins of the old abbey at Rosscarbery lie south of the cathedral, with a carved head in the south wall pointed out as that of St. Faughnan, the founder. The cathedral, of Perpendicular architecture with a square tower and octagonal spire, is now used as the parish church.

    Read the passage

    Rosscarbery Bay indents the coast somewhat deeply to the west of Galley Head. Hanmer tells us that the town was once the site of " a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning's sake." The place acquired great celebrity from the sanctity of St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh, in county Waterford, who, removing to Rosscarbery, founded an abbey here. The church of this abbey was in due time made into the cathedral of a new see, of which the saint became the first bishop. In 16 12, the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey and its church were allowed to decay. Its ruins are now to the south of the cathedral, a carved head in the south wall being

    CO UR TMA CSHERR Y—BA NDON 1 69

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    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Ross Carbery, the old abbey ruins lie south of the cathedral. Hanmer wrote that this town was once the site of "a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning's sake." St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh in county Waterford, came here and founded the abbey. Its church became the cathedral of a new see, and St. Faughnan served as its first bishop. The cathedral was later rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey was left to decay. Today a carved head in the south wall of the ruins is pointed out as that of St. Faughnan himself. The cathedral, with its square tower and octagonal spire, now serves as the parish church.

15. United States Cable Company station at Ballinskelligs

    Ballinskelligs · townland · Kerry

    At Ballinskelligs, across the bay directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company could be seen. This complemented the cable infrastructure at Waterville on the other side of Ballinskelligs Bay.

    Read the passage

    The village, which bids fair shortly to become a town, is largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbourhood. Fishing is, for the most part, free ; salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place (close to the Bay View Hotel) is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. Here is the junction with another road which comes directly through the mountains from Kiharney, thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attractive Glencar on the way (see p. 1 30). The village is a tempting place of sojourn, commanding magnificent views of the Atlantic on the one hand, and of the mountains on the other ; and it is within three minutes' walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. Here, also, the Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables — the latest completed in 1894 ; and their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be inspected on application. Two other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. Moreover, at Ballinskelligs, across the bay, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks of the little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries into the bay the surplus water of —

    Lough Currane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 64

16. Church Island early monastery remains

    Church Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    On Church Island in Valentia Harbour are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells. These are listed among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood of Cahirciveen.

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    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O'Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O'Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 62

17. Dinish Island and O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl

    near Dinish Island · townland · Kerry

    Dinish Island, properly Dine-iske meaning 'the beginning of the waters,' is richly wooded with arbutus groves and a rustic cottage for visitors. A bridge connects it to Brickeen Island and Muckross demesne, where old copper mines can be visited.

    Read the passage

    to see O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl. Embowered in arbutus groves, a pretty rustic Cottage has been built for the accommodation of visitors. Here we can take tea, or saunter about and walk over to see Brickeen Island ; and further on, across another bridge, then entering Muckross demesne, visit the lakelet of Doolah and the old copper mines. The name is properly Dine-iske (" the beginning of the waters"), but the boatmen know it as Dinish Island. Again we embark, this time on —

    The Middle Lake,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Dinish Island, you have what the boatmen call Dinish Island, though its proper name is Dine-iske, meaning 'the beginning of the waters.' There's a rustic cottage built for visitors among arbutus groves, and a spot known as O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl. A bridge leads over to Brickeen Island, and across another bridge you can enter Muckross demesne, visit the lakelet of Doolah and see the old copper mines.

18. Mallow, the Bath of Ireland

    Mallow · town · Cork

    Mallow, on the banks of the Cork Blackwater, was at one time known as the Bath of Ireland and was a popular resort for invalids who came to drink the waters of its spa and admire the scenery. The mineral waters are very similar to those of Clifton.

    Read the passage

    Leaving Buttevant and continuing our southward course, we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important railway junction (ref. room), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the convenience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 14

19. Muckross House and Queen Victoria's 1861 visit

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1861

    Muckross House is an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, the seat of Lord Ardilaun, overlooking the Middle Lake and close to Muckross Abbey. Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained there during their 1861 visit to the lakes.

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    The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a number of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town.

    Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotitations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 36

20. Parknasilla, former residence of the Bishop of Limerick

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    Parknasilla is a health resort whose demesne was formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick. It stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill, with wooded hills and a romantic broken coast studded with tree-covered islets.

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    In the demesne, formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick, has been erected a tasteful and commodious hotel (under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Co.), to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers are making this place their headquarters. It is usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about a hundred acres, and include several islets connected by rustic bridges.

    The situation of Parknasilla is delightful. It stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill (895 feet), with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it " one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough," and frankly owns that " to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us." On the important subject of climate a writer in the Dublin Journal of Medical Science says of Parknasilla :—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    Along here you have Parknasilla, in Kerry. The demesne was formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick, and a tasteful and commodious hotel has been erected in the grounds, under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, to accommodate the tourists who come here in increasing numbers. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds: the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about 100 acres and include several islets connected by rustic bridges. The situation is delightful. Parknasilla stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill, 895 feet, with wooded hills rising all around and a romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it "one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough," and frankly owns that "to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us."

21. Seefin mountain summit panorama

    Seefin · electoral division · Cork

    The steep ascent of Seefin (1,136 feet) on the drive round Dunmanus and Bantry Bays rewards climbers with a magnificent panorama of Bantry Bay, the fortified Bear Island, Castletown Bearhaven, and the Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountains.

    Read the passage

    The Drive round Dunmanus and Bantry Bays, about rs miles This is a fine six hours' drive, for which circular tickets are issued from Cork. Lunch can be taken in the car, but a good hotel has recently been opened at Ahakista, on the shore of Dunmanus Bay, 12 miles from Bantry. The chief charm of the drive is due to the fact that the sea is close at hand all the way, except for the first 7 miles or so to Durrus. We drive past a succession of pretty coves, with fine views across Dunmanus Bay of Mount Gabriel (1,339 feet) and the rugged coast-line to Three Castle Head and Mizen Head. At Ahakista, as already stated, is a good hotel. When about two-thirds of the way down the promontory we reach the sequestered village of Killcrohane, and turning rightwards commence the steep ascent of Seefin (1,136 feet). How the horse manages to drag the car up is a mystery, and tourists will probably be glad of the opportunity of stretching their legs and showing mercy at the same time, particularly as the road winds so much that the scrambler by path has only about half the distance to go. The backward view is magnificent, but is surpassed, if only the mountain be free from mist, by that which burst's on the gaze in front when the summit is reached. The whole stretch of Bantry Bay, certainly one of the finest in the world, lies before one. Across the water is the strongly fortified Bear Island, sheltering the harbour and town of Castletown Bearhaven (see p. 158). Behind the island tower the Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountains. To westward is the boundless ocean, and eastward we have, as we turn and slowly descend, a sight of the Bay as far as Whiddy Island. The road during the first part of the homeward journey must be something like a thousand feet above the sea, which it directly overhangs.

    Bantry Bay, it should be said, is twenty-one miles long and from six to eight wide. It affords safe anchorage for ships of the largest tonnage. The depth of water at the entrance is about forty fathoms, and the largest warships can

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    As the road climbs through Seefin, you're on one of the finest stretches of coastline driving in the southwest. The sea stays close at hand nearly all the way, and the route threads past a succession of pretty coves, with fine views across Dunmanus Bay toward Mount Gabriel, rising to 1,339 feet, and the rugged coastline running out to Three Castle Head and Mizen Head. At Ahakista, about 12 miles from Bantry, a good hotel stands on the shore of Dunmanus Bay. Beyond it the road reaches the sequestered village of Killcrohane, then turns and begins the steep ascent of Seefin, which rises to 1,136 feet. The guidebook wonders how the horse manages to drag the car up, and suggests tourists will probably be glad to stretch their legs, since the road winds so much that a scrambler by path has only about half the distance to go. The backward view is magnificent, but it is surpassed, if the mountain be free from mist, by what opens in front when the summit is reached. The whole stretch of Bantry Bay lies before you, certainly one of the finest in the world. Across the water is the strongly fortified Bear Island, sheltering the harbour and town of Castletown Bearhaven. Behind the island tower the Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountains. To westward is the boundless ocean, and eastward, as the road turns and slowly descends, there is a sight of the bay as far as Whiddy Island. The road during the first part of the homeward journey must be something like a thousand feet above the sea, which it directly overhangs. Bantry Bay is twenty-one miles long and from six to eight wide, affording safe anchorage for ships of the largest tonnage, with a depth of water at the entrance of about forty fathoms.

22. Charles II Proclaimed in Cork Before London

    Cork · city · Cork

    When Charles II was restored to the throne, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before the same ceremony was performed in London, demonstrating the city's loyalty to the Stuart cause.

    Read the passage

    dl Whennm due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song :-

    24

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 18

23. Cork's island setting and marshland origin

    Cork · city · Cork

    The older part of Cork stands on an island formed by the divided channels of the River Lee, originally a cluster of smaller islands separated by channels. The city's name is a corruption of 'Cor each,' meaning a marsh, reflecting its original state.

    Read the passage

    It will then be seen that the main and older part of the city stands on an island, of which the Custom House forms the eastern tip, the North and South Channels uniting at that point and expanding, after a short, straight course beneath the wooded heights of Tivoli, into the noble sheet of Cork Harbour. The island, strictly speaking, is a cluster of islands, originally separated by channels, and arched over in comparatively modern times. The name is a corruption of Cor each, " a marsh," and there can be no doubt as to its original appropriateness. The town has, however, long since overflowed the water, if the Irishism may be allowed, and now occupies not only the island but the north and south banks, and the rising ground on either side. The fact that the river forks adds considerably to the convenience of Cork as a port, as the quayage is thereby nearly doubled.

    Vessels of considerable burthen can pass as far up the North Channel as St. Patrick's Bridge, and to the Parliament Bridge by the South Channel, the Parnell Bridge being so constructed that it can be swung round to allow the passage of vessels. The shipping trade of Cork is extensive, and includes cattle, pigs, butter (who has not heard of Cork butter ?), and all sorts of agricultural produce, tweed and other kinds of woollen goods, flax, hemp, etc. Amongst the steamers making Cork a regular port of call, mention may be made of those of the City of Cork Steam Packet Company (Penrose Quay), and the Clyde Shipping Company (St.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 19

24. Cork's oldest charter granted by Prince John

    Cork · city · Cork · 1177–1199

    Cork was a borough by prescription, and its oldest charter was granted by Prince John while he acted as viceroy of Ireland during the reign of his father, Henry II, before the memorable 'pulling of the beards' incident.

    Read the passage

    a borough by prescription ; its oldest charter was granted by Prince John, who acted, until the memorable " pulling of the beards " incident, as viceroy of Ireland during the reign of his father, Henry II. The city returns two members to Parliament.

    Streets, Quays and Bridges.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 17

25. Devil's Bit Mountain legend

    Barnane-ely · parish · Tipperary

    The Devil's-Bit Mountains derive their name from a legend that the Devil, benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one mountain but dropped it in disgust. A visible gap in the range is said to be the Satanic mouthful.

    Read the passage

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the mam line ; and Ballybrophy station (ref. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic ' of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil's-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The « bit," we are told, formed

    ThLf°Cl° fhel Vi6WS °f Which we get after Posing Tnurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross It was here, in l8So, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen's Colleges as

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 14

26. Holy Cross Abbey and relic of the true cross

    Holycross · townland · Tipperary · 1168–1169

    Holy Cross Abbey, a once great Cistercian foundation near Thurles, was built between 1168 and 1169 to hold a relic of the true cross. It is one of the notable ecclesiastical ruins of Tipperary.

    Read the passage

    ThLf°Cl° fhel Vi6WS °f Which we get after Posing Tnurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross It was here, in l8So, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen's Colleges as

    godless, recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 14

27. Ice markings at Windy Gap on Kenmare–Killarney road

    Windy Gap · pass · Kerry

    Glacial ice markings are visible at Windy Gap on the road from Kenmare to Killarney, evidence of the vast ice movement that once covered Kerry. Similar markings are found on the rocks about Kenmare, the shores of Killarney, at Sneem, and as high as 2,500 feet on the Reeks.

    Read the passage

    Geology. — The central plain of Ireland is formed of Carboniferous limestone, with few elevations, but bounded by mountainous ridges. The Kerry ranges run mostly parallel from east to west. The narrower troughs, or " synclinals," are Carboniferous, the broader ridges, or " anticlinals," are Old Red Sandstone. The former, being more easily weathered and denuded, give us the valleys and narrow fiords, the latter give us the long ranges of hills (several over 3,000 feet high), and the headlands and promontories projecting into the sea, often with the strata bent into arches. These bendings and crumplings may be plainly seen in many places— for example, where the hills are bare of vegetable growth, or where the road crosses a ridge. Thus it follows that the visible rocks are usually the older series, and were once covered by the Carboniferous strata now weathered away. Kenmare and Killarney lie in Carboniferous valleys, but on the road between these places a massive ridge of Old Red Sandstone is crossed. Here, too, glacial action is plainly visible. Kerry itself was afterwards one vast snowfield. Great glaciers travelled (according to the Rev. Maxwell Close, who has made a special study of the Ice Age in Ireland) from the lower reaches of the Shannon towards Kerry— a striking example of an uphill ice movement. The main icefield was in the centre of Ireland, only four or five hundred feet high, but the ice travelled regardless of small local elevations, only turning aside for mountains, round which it passed. The ice marking is, however, very confused — like a crush in the Arctic seas— owing to minor ice streams. Probably the main stream was thousands of feet deep. The main direction was north-north- west to south-south-east, the glaciers ending in the sea about Cork, Kinsale, Kenmare, etc. Ice markings may be seen on the rocks about Kenmare, on the shores of Killarney, at Sneem, and even as high as 2,500 feet on the Reeks, and again at Windy Gap on the road

    180

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 83

28. Kerry Blackwater cascades and bridge

    near Blackwater Bridge · population centre · Kerry

    The Kerry Blackwater tumbles over rocks forming cascades as it nears Kenmare Bay. The two-arched bridge crossing it stands about 60 feet above the water, offering impressive views of the river below.

    Read the passage

    The coach leaves Parknasilla about 10.0 a.m. for the remaining fifteen miles' drive to Kenmare. The road lies high above, but close to, the sea. We pass the head of Coongar Harbour, which is sheltered by Rossmore Island, one of the largest in the estuary. The best part of the drive is reached at a distance of six miles as we descend the wooded slopes to the Blackwater, one of the many rivers of that name in Ireland, and distinguished from others as the " Kerry " Blackwater. It runs merrily along, between banks so high that the two-arched bridge by which we cross is quite 60 feet above the surface of the water. The coach stops for a few minutes to allow passengers to pass beneath the bridge, an opportunity which none should neglect. The stream tumbles over numerous rocks and forms many pretty cascades in its course to Kenmare Bay — now so rapidly narrowing as to be scarcely two miles across. But before mingling its fresh water with the briny waves of the sea, the Blackwater again expands and forms a snug little harbour, useful to small coasting vessels. The Blackwater is famous for salmon.

    There is a carriage-road from Blackwater Bridge, via the Gap of Ballaghbeama, to Glencar miles, or from

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 67

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up is Blackwater Bridge, where the road crosses the Kerry Blackwater. This is one of the many rivers of that name in Ireland, set apart from the others as the Kerry Blackwater. It runs between banks so high that the two-arched bridge is about 60 feet above the surface of the water. The stream tumbles over numerous rocks and forms many pretty cascades in its course to Kenmare Bay, which at this point is scarcely two miles across. Before mingling its fresh water with the sea, the Blackwater again expands and forms a snug little harbour, useful to small coasting vessels. The Blackwater is famous for salmon. The guidebook notes that passengers would stop a few minutes and pass beneath the bridge, an opportunity none should neglect. The wooded slopes you descend lead down to the water, and the cascades run merrily along toward the bay, where the fresh water meets the briny waves.

29. Monkstown Church, first Protestant church after Reformation

    Monkstown · townland · Cork

    Monkstown Church is an Early English, ivy-grown structure on a picturesque elevation, said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation.

    Read the passage

    found when the work was done that the house had only cost her a groat. Her husband returned in due course, and seems to have appraised his treasure of a wife at her proper value, though the chronicler tells us only that they were eventually interred together in their family vault, in the burial-ground of the ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn, adjoining the castle. Monkstown Church, an Early English, ivy-grown structure, standing on a picturesque elevation, is said to have been the first Protestant place of worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation.

    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White's Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 23

30. Ogham stones collected at Parknasilla

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    The Bishop of Limerick collected stones bearing Ogham character inscriptions, long undeciphered, which are now displayed on the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his residence. These represent a significant assemblage of Ogham antiquities in Kerry.

    Read the passage

    Archaeology. — Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character — so long undeciphered — and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 183-8.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Along here at Parknasilla in Kerry, Ogham stones collected by the Bishop of Limerick may be seen in the hotel grounds. The writing, long undeciphered, is the Ogham character, found on standing stones and gallauns across Kerry and Cork, where such antiquities abound. The Bishop gathered inscribed stones and kept them at his own residence, now the Parknasilla Hotel. These are pre-Christian remains.

31. Panoramic mountain view between Kenmare and Glengariff

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry

    A hilltop road dividing the Kenmare and Glengariff valleys offers what a correspondent calls the best mountain view in the south of Ireland. From the summit, the mountains of Kerry lie in brilliant purple panorama, with the Sugarloaf most prominent.

    Read the passage

    Note Contributed by Correspondent (we have not personally tested this divergence. Ed.). — Between Kenmare and Glengariff is the best mountain view in the south of Ireland, but as it lies apart from the coach-road it is apt to be overlooked. Seven and a half miles from Kenmare the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. If time permits, the tourist would do well to dismount and take the road which leads to the left, following it until it conies, by rather a bad surface, to the very top of the hill which divides the Kenmare valley from the Glengariff valley. Excepting the last portion — about one hundred yards — the road is a gentle incline and is quite negotiable by easy walkers. From the top is the best view of the whole of the mountains of Kerry— the Sugarloaf being most prominent. They lie, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple, at one's feet. Southward is beautiful Glengariff — the village being three miles of rather hard descent from the summit, the whole distance from the Chapel to Glengariff being about 4f miles. The walker will miss portions of the coach-road, especially that which includes the long tunnel, but he will be more than repaid by one of the best views of mountain, valley and sea which can be obtained anywhere. In actual distance, this road is somewhat shorter than the coach route (say 12^ miles against 18 miles).

    Glengariff.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, between Kenmare and Glengariff, a correspondent for the Pictorial and Descriptive Guide claims there is the best mountain view in the south of Ireland. The catch is that it lies apart from the coach-road, so it is apt to be overlooked. Seven and a half miles from Kenmare the coach passes a Roman Catholic chapel. If time permits, the tourist would do well to dismount and take the road to the left, following it until it comes, by rather a bad surface, to the very top of the hill which divides the Kenmare valley from the Glengariff valley. Excepting the last portion, about one hundred yards, the road is a gentle incline and quite negotiable by easy walkers. From the top is the best view of the whole of the mountains of Kerry, the Sugarloaf being most prominent. They lie, in the correspondent's words, an enormous panorama in brilliant purple at one's feet. Southward is beautiful Glengariff, the village being three miles of rather hard descent from the summit, the whole distance from the chapel to Glengariff being about four and a half miles. The walker will miss portions of the coach-road, especially the long tunnel, but will be more than repaid by one of the best views of mountain, valley and sea obtainable anywhere. In actual distance this road is somewhat shorter than the coach route, about 12 miles against 18. The editors note they have not personally tested this divergence.

32. Prince and Princess of Wales visit Killarney, 1897

    Killarney · town · Kerry · 1897

    The present Prince and Princess of Wales visited Killarney in 1897 and were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence, and negotiations were reportedly entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Read the passage

    Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotitations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Hotels.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 36

33. Queenstown renamed after Queen Victoria's visit

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork · 1849

    Queenstown was formerly known as Cove, and its present name arose because Queen Victoria landed there on her visit to Ireland in 1849.

    Read the passage

    Queenstown was formerly known as Cove, its present name arising from the fact that Queen Victoria landed here on her visit to Ireland in 1849. Apart from its importance as a port of call for the American liners, and as a great naval and military station, Queenstown is rapidly acquiring a reputation as a health resort, particularly for the winter. Says a reliable authority : —

    " The climate is remarkably mild and equable, and, at the sametime, fairly dry and tonic, and is especially suitable as a winter and1 spring residence for persons with delicate chests, to sufferers from chronic catarrhal throat affections, and to convalescents from acute diseases. It is particularly appropriate as a seaside resort to persons requiring a soothing and sedative atmosphere. From the position of Queenstown, winds from the colder points are very little felt, and it is completely protected from the north, north-east and north-west winds. The mean temperatures of the season are exactly similar to those at Torquay, and higher than those of Bournemouth, Hastings and Ventnor. As a winter health resort Queenstown possesses all the best natural and climatic advantages."

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 23

34. Bantry Bay at Glengariff

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

    Bantry Bay is described as a magnificent expanse with numerous islands, one of which guards and shelters the harbour so that it takes on the aspect of a serene lake. The bay lies at the head of the Glengariff glen.

    Read the passage

    " Language utterly fails," declares Mr. S. C. Hall, " to convey even a limited idea of the exceeding beauty of Glengariff, which merits to the full the enthusiastic praise that has been lavished upon it by every traveller by whom it has been visited. It is a deep Alpine valley, enclosed by precipitous hills, about three miles in length, and seldom exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth. Black and savage rocks embosom, as it were, a scene of surpassing loveliness, endowed by nature with the richest gifts of wood and water ; for the trees are graceful in form, luxuriant in foliage, and varied in character, and the rippling stream, the strong river, and the foaming cataract are supplied from a thousand rills collected in the mountains. Beyond all, is the magnificent bay, with its numerous islands, by one of which it is so guarded and sheltered as to receive the aspect of a serene lake. The artist cannot do it justice, and the pen must be laid aside in despair."

    In the glen itself the sternest grandeur is softened by the tenderest loveliness. " Mountains are rent and rifted as if some convulsion of nature had shaken ancT torn them, upheaving their strata and serrating their wild summits, whilst their bases repose in woods and meadows of the softest verdure. Peaks rise above peaks lofty and bald, merging their frowning rocks in the shifting Atlantic mists ; beneath are smiling valleys, gemmed with myriads of flowers."

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 71

35. Cromwell enters Youghal by Water Gate

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1649

    Cromwell entered Youghal in 1649 by the Water Gate and made the town his headquarters for a time. The town received its first charter from King John and was once strongly fortified, with much of its walls still standing on the western and northern sides.

    Read the passage

    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte's Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary's Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the '"great" Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl's agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell's

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : " All my wealth was £27 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent in6Il a£d .necessaries> with my rapier and dagger." Before his death his income was at the rate of £5o a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks, ' '

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 29

36. Doulus Head cave resembling a cathedral

    near Doulus Head · promontory · Kerry

    Doulus Head is a promontory north-west of Cahirciveen, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. The interior of one of the caves beneath it is very lofty and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral.

    Read the passage

    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O'Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O'Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 62

37. Dunmanway linen manufacture under Sir Richard Cox

    Dunmanway · town · Cork · 1702–1714

    Dunmanway was formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland during the reign of Queen Anne.

    Read the passage

    Resuming the railway journey eastward from Bantry to Cork, at Drimoleague Junction, we reach Dunmanway, formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland in the reign of Queen Anne.

    We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 79

38. St. Patrick's Hill, steepest street in Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    St. Patrick's Hill, reached via Audley Place from the Old Youghal Road, is described as perhaps the steepest street in Cork. Convenient steps assist the pedestrian in navigating the steep gradient.

    Read the passage

    To regain St. Patrick's Street from the Old Youghal Road we turn down Audley Place to St. Patrick's Hill. The latter is perhaps the steepest street in Cork. How the horses manage to get up and down is a marvel. Convenient steps assist the pedestrian.

    Having regained St. Patrick's Bridge, a walk of a quarter of a mile along the north side of the river would bring us to the Dominican Church of St. Mary's, the Ionic portico of which stands out so clearly in the view from St. Patrick s Bridge. The church is deservedly admired for the chasteness of its style and its just proportions.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Cork, St. Patrick's Hill is reached by turning down Audley Place from the Old Youghal Road. It is perhaps the steepest street in Cork. How the horses manage to get up and down is a marvel. Convenient steps assist the pedestrian. Having regained St. Patrick's Bridge, a walk of a quarter of a mile along the north side of the river brings you to the Dominican Church of St. Mary's. Its Ionic portico stands out clearly in the view from St. Patrick's Bridge. The church is admired for the chasteness of its style and its just proportions.

39. Ballincollig castle and gunpowder works

    near Ballincollig · town · Cork · 1327–1377

    Ballincollig, meaning 'the town of the wild boar,' contained barracks and gunpowder works. Its conspicuous square tower formed part of a castle ruin dating from the reign of Edward III.

    Read the passage

    wi Z\ n.Mrly.fren mil6S t0 Bal,in«Olig (" the town of the wdd boar »), with its barracks and gunpowder works The conspicnons square tower is part of the ruin of a castle built

    w * u T rm rdgn °f Edward ilL Ato"t two Ss from Balhncolhg, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St, Owen, the patron saint of the parish) there aro ~ noted caves in the limestone rock^hortl^ Ster Teavi Kdlumney statmn, we have, on the right, the ruins of mZl Sr^sTerry. ^ ^ ^ *** * * ^

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 81

40. Cloyne Round Tower

    Cloyne · town · Cork

    The Round Tower at Cloyne, adjoining the Cathedral, was originally 92 feet high and remains in good preservation after being repaired and fitted with a battlement. Like other Irish round towers, it is believed to have served as a place of refuge and treasure house for monks.

    Read the passage

    The route (b), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney, but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (5|miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted" lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 1 1| feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is

    5^ BA LL Y COT TO N

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 25

41. Cormac's Chapel and round tower at Cashel

    Cashel · town · Tipperary · 1127

    On the Rock of Cashel stands Cormac's Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster with its famous round tower 90 feet high. These structures are among the chief antiquities of the ancient episcopal city.

    Read the passage

    of the Rock are among the finest in the country. The edifice was benevolently burnt in 149 c; by the Earl of Kildare because he thought the archbishop was within ! " This candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the Cathedral, there are on the rock Cormac's Chapel, built in 1127 and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, 90 feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from— but in full view of — the Rock.

    Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (ref. room) where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending east and west in front

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Cashel, the antiquities of the Rock are among the finest in the country. These structures are among the chief antiquities of the ancient episcopal city. The edifice was benevolently burnt by the Earl of Kildare because he thought the archbishop was within. "This candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland." Besides the Cathedral, there are on the Rock Cormac's Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, 90 feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from, but in full view of, the Rock.

42. Glencairn Abbey monks' cells above the river

    Glencairn · townland · Waterford

    Glencairn Abbey sits in a charming demesne open to visitors near Lismore. The monks' cells are still visible in a portion of the building that rises perpendicularly from the brink of the river.

    Read the passage

    river, is Glencairn Abbey, in a charming demesne open to visitors. The monks' cells are still to be seen in a portion of the building that rises perpendicularly from the brink of the river. About a mile farther the ruined Castle of Ballyduff may be seen on the southern bank. The river is crossed close to the castle, and the traveller must then turn to the right. Rather more than a mile from the bridge he will pass Ballyduff Station, while another mile will bring him abreast of the ruins of Mocollop Castle, with the adjacent modern residence, on the northern side of the river, and a little beyond that he will pass under the line, which runs between the high-road and the river for the next 34 miles. When that distance has been traversed he will again go under the line, and will see Kilmurry House on the opposite bank. After passing Clondulane Station, the road once more crosses the line, and then the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle, by the side of the river, comes in sight.

    Lismore to Fermoy by Rail.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 34

43. MacCarthy More's Island and Upper Lake islands

    near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Upper Lake is studded with islands including MacCarthy More's Island, luxuriant with evergreens and Lebanon cedars, Ronayne's Island, Eagle Island, Oak and Juniper Islands, and Arbutus Island. Colman's Eye marks the extremity of the Lower Lake where the Long Range begins.

    Read the passage

    MacCarthy More's Island is one of the first islands passed. It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne's Island, where may be had some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman's Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed — the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters. We soon reach —

    n6

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 56

44. Sneem village in parish of Killcrohane

    Sneem · town · Kerry

    Sneem is the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane, prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and several mountain streamlets. It contains a Roman Catholic church with a curious campanile, a Protestant church, and a comfortable inn.

    Read the passage

    As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left. Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The view is obtained at the junction of another road with that along which we are driving, as we approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane, through which we have been travelling ever since we left Darrynane. Sneem is prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It con-

    143

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 65

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Sneem, the chief village in the parish of Killcrohane. It sits prettily at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. You have been travelling through this parish ever since Darrynane. As the road comes up to the village, there is a grand panorama of hills on the far side of the bay, separating Kerry and Cork, and a still grander view of the high mountains round Killarney opening out to the left. Perhaps the most charming sight of all is the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The village itself contains a Roman Catholic church with a curious campanile, a Protestant church, and a comfortable inn.

45. Spike Island former convict station

    Spike Island · townland · Cork

    Spike Island, also known as Fort Westmoreland, is the largest of the Cork Harbour island group and was formerly a convict station, with many government works executed by convict labour.

    Read the passage

    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White's Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 23

46. Strancally Castle on the Blackwater

    Strancally · townland · Waterford

    Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the River Blackwater, its ivied ruins blending with the mossy surroundings along the passage from Youghal to Cappoquin.

    Read the passage

    After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhincrew Castle, on the left, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight ; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy

    KiiUrney- (/)

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 30

47. The Kyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh

    near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

    The Pass of Keimaneigh, likened to the Khyber Pass, was a dramatic mountain pass on the coach route from Glengariff to Gougane Barra. A daily coach left around 11 o'clock for this destination.

    Read the passage

    Yet another good trip can be made by the coach which leaves daily about 1 1 for the Kyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh and Gougane Barra, with its holy lake. The return to Cork can now be made this way via Macroom : the route is fully described in the reverse direction on pp. 174-7.

    Glengariff to Bantry.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 74

48. Circular fort near Caherdaniel

    Caherdaniel · townland · Kerry

    Close to the road leading to Caherdaniel, on the shore of Derrynane Bay, stands a circular fort in remarkably good preservation. A small stone fort is also noted near the hamlet of Caherdaniel itself.

    Read the passage

    Leaving Waterville, and crossing the bridge at its southern end, we enter on the most interesting section of the drive. Our road at first winds upwards, till at Coomakista Pass it is 700 feet above the sea. We get charming views of the mountains on the left, and of the almost circular bay, with its numberless islands, on the right. In about a mile we pass, on the left, the ruined Templenakilla Church. Driving on for about five miles, our road descends to the sea on the shore of Derrynane Bay, a small inlet of the Atlantic separated from Ballinskelligs Bay by Hog's Head and from the Kenmare estuary by Lamb Head, the most southerly cape of county Kerry. In Derrynane Bay are Scariff Island and many other rocky islets. On our right, close to the road leading to Caherdaniel, is a circular fort in remarkably good preservation. On the shore of the bay is —

    Derrynane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 65

49. Dingle Bay scenery with Brandon Mountain

    near Dingle Bay · bay · Kerry

    The southern shore of Dingle Bay is followed for twenty-six miles, with Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet) visible in the far distance on the opposite side. The peaks of Killarney's mountains are visible to the south in ever-changing combinations.

    Read the passage

    with on the opposite side, a background of lofty hills, termi natedTn the far distance by the Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet) Dunmore Head, the bluff extremity of the northern pen flsufa is the most westerly land in I-land-neare America than any point of the European shores It is surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which the Great Blalket, presents some lofty and steep . c hffs to the sea These features of the northern coast of the bay will attract attention successively as we make our way westward Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at other joints on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney (k) I29

    CARAGH LAKE— GLEN CAR

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 60

50. Glenbeigh watering-place and carpet industry

    Glenbeigh · town · Kerry

    Glenbeigh is described as a promising little watering-place with a good hotel, golf links, and a fine strand for bathing. It takes its name from its situation at the mouth of the river Beigh, and a rug and carpet industry had recently been started there.

    Read the passage

    [Hotel : Headley Arms] is a promising little watering-place, with a good hotel, golf links, and a fine strand for bathing. Glenbeigh takes its name from its situation at the mouth of the river Beigh, which rises some five miles south-westward in the stern cragsurrounded loughs known as Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw, and Coomnacronia. Coomasharn is certainly worth a visit, on account of the great precipices which overhang it. At Glenbeigh a rug and carpet industry has recently been started.

    Leaving Glenbeigh, the line ascends and comes quite close to the coast, and we have superb views on the right of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty- mountains. We continue to ascend, and at Mountain Stage (so named from its having been the stage-house in the not very remote days of cars and coaches) we are on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more than 400 feet above the sea. The line presently turns inland to Kells (a small hamlet merely, and not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland). A long descent brings us to—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 61

51. Glengariff village buried in foliage

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    The village of Glengariff, glimpsed far below from the mountain road, is described as almost buried in foliage. It sits at the head of Bantry Bay with an island-dotted harbour.

    Read the passage

    the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, towards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out Lord Bantry' s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right, and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the village of Glengariff sits at the head of Bantry Bay, almost buried in foliage. The mountains group about the head of the bay, and great valleys stretch away on either hand, with here and there a mountain tarn. The prominent height is the Sugarloaf. From the mountain road, a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the village lies far below in the trees. The steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitate a constant application of the brake. It is a tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it was opened for tourist traffic. Ahead, you will see the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff comes into view. Lord Bantry's Shooting Lodge is also pointed out.

52. Killarney House and Italian gardens of the Earl of Kenmare

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Killarney House is the Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorning the crest of a hill at the west end of the town and surrounded by a demesne skirting the Lower Lake. A flower show is annually held in its Italian gardens under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare, and the Gaelic League holds its Annual Fete in the grounds.

    Read the passage

    The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a number of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town.

    Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotitations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 36

53. North Chapel of Cork built 1808

    Cork · city · Cork · 1808

    The North Chapel in Cork was built in 1808 and boasts a massive and lofty tower, though architecturally it is not considered a success. The interior is strikingly ornate with a monument by Turnerelli near the altar commemorating Dr. Moylan, the founder of the cathedral.

    Read the passage

    or the North Chapel. It was built in 1808, and boasts a massive and lofty tower, but architecturally it is not a success. The interior is in striking contrast to the plain exterior, and deserves to be seen, though the tourist may object to the over-elaboration of some of the details, and the almost gaudy appearance of the whole. A monument by Turnerelli, near the altar, commemorates Dr. Moylan, the founder of the cathedral, and in the open space in front of the main entrance is a bronze statue of Bishop Delany, D.D., erected in 1890.

    By following the squalid Old Chapel Lane up the hill, with the Fever Hospital on the left hand, one reaches the Old Youghal Road, which may be described as the " Northern Heights " of Cork, affording an excellent view over the city and harbour. The Barracks and camp field are up here, and the tunnel of the Great Southern and Western Railway, leading to Glanmire station, runs below.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the North Chapel stands in the city, built in 1808. It has a massive and lofty tower, but architecturally it is not a success. The plain exterior is in striking contrast to the interior, which deserves to be seen, though the over-elaboration of some details and the almost gaudy appearance of the whole might give you pause. Near the altar, a monument by Turnerelli commemorates Dr. Moylan, the founder of the cathedral. In the open space in front of the main entrance stands a bronze statue of Bishop Delany, erected in 1890. Following Old Chapel Lane up the hill, with the Fever Hospital on the left, you reach the Old Youghal Road, the Northern Heights of Cork, affording an excellent view over the city and harbour. The Barracks and camp field are up here, and the tunnel of the Great Southern and Western Railway, leading to Glanmire station, runs below.

54. Ross Island: artificial formation and castle ruins

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry

    Ross Island, part of the Kenmare estate, is of artificial formation—a moat was cut through a morass at the isthmus connecting it to land, likely as protection for the castle whose ruins form a prominent feature. Its area is about 150 statute acres.

    Read the passage

    which is part of the Kenmare estate, and is laid out with walks and carriage-drives in the same tasteful and picturesque manner as the rest of the demesne. The island is beyond doubt of artificial formation, a moat having been cut through a morass in the isthmus which connected it with the land at a remote date — in all probability, as a protection to the castle the ruins of which form a prominent feature of the island. Its area is about 150 statute acres, and it is about a mile in length. The shore is worn into every variety of creek, promontory and bay, with deeply indented fantastic and curious rocks.

    Leaving Killarney by carriage, a short drive along the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 50

55. Cappoquin town and its name

    Cappoquin · town · Waterford

    Cappoquin, whose name signifies 'Conn's tillage plot' per P.W. Joyce, is a small town of about a thousand people delightfully situated in picturesque countryside. The cherry introduced by Raleigh still flourishes there, and it serves as a centre for anglers and excursions.

    Read the passage

    The name signifies " Conn's tillage plot " (P. W. Joyce). The little town, which has a population of rather more than a thousand, is delightfully situated, the surrounding country being very picturesque and containing some handsome seats. The fine species of cherry introduced by Raleigh still flourishes. Cappoquin is a good centre for anglers. Salmon-fishing can be obtained on certain conditions. Trout-fishing may be freely enjoyed within a minute's walk of Morrissey's Hotel. The town is also a point from which some charming excursions may be taken.

    The most important is that to—

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 31

56. Belvelly Castle, Hodnett and Barry seat

    Belvelly · townland · Cork

    The remains of Belvelly Castle on Great Island were formerly a seat of the Hodnetts and now form part of the Barry estate. Great Island was once known as Barrymore Island.

    Read the passage

    Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barry more Island.

    Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more convenient to regard this as a separate trip {see p. 54), and to continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 23

57. Carrigrohane Castle on the steep rock

    near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork

    A castle stands high on the steep rock above Carrigrohane, visible from the railway route leaving Cork towards Blarney. The valley of the Lee presents pretty views at this point.

    Read the passage

    Leaving the station, we run first along the roadside, having on our right the Mardyke, and presently the City Waterworks and the many-gabled Lunatic Asylum. On the left we have Queen's College and the Male Gaol. Between Victoria Cross and Carrigrohane is passed the Model Farm, where training is given in agriculture, dairy-farming, etc. The institution has been very successful. The valley of the Lee presents here and there as we get further from the city some pretty peeps. This is notably the case as Carrigrohane, above which, high on the steep rock, is a Castle. We shortly cross the Lee, and follow its tributary, the Shoumagh, a trout stream of some repute. The valley is now wider, and affords a more extensive view. Passing Healy Bridge we reach Junction, from which the main line continues westward to Coachford, g\ miles distant.

    The principal stations on the Coachford line are at Cloghroe near to which is Ardrum Castle ; Dripsey, a place of much picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and said to have been built by the same lord ; and Coachford, a prettily situated village much favoured by anglers.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 26

58. Cloyne Cathedral and Bishop Berkeley

    Cloyne · town · Cork · 1889

    Cloyne Cathedral, now used as a Protestant church, is the seat of a very ancient diocese merged into that of Cork. A monument to Bishop Berkeley, the famous eighteenth-century metaphysician and former bishop, was placed in the cathedral in 1889.

    Read the passage

    Cloyne Cathedral is now used as a Protestant Church and the diocese, a very ancient one, is merged in that of Cork A former bishop was Berkeley, the famous eighteenth century metaphysician. He was buried at Oxford, but a monument to his memory was placed in the cathedral in 1889.

    There are two roads from Cloyne to Ballycotton and the coast, the more circuitous being known as the Shangarry road.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 25

59. Cork walls destroyed after siege, 'Rebel Cork' reputation

    Cork · city · Cork

    After the walls of Cork were destroyed, the city heard little more as a military centre, though it maintained its reputation as 'Rebel Cork' until well into the nineteenth century. Mr. Parnell was member for Cork at the time of his death.

    Read the passage

    The walls were soon afterwards destroyed, and we hear little more of Cork as a military centre, though it maintained its reputation as " Rebel Cork " until well into the nineteenth century. Mr. Parnell, it will be remembered, was member for Cork at the time of his death, and the city very properly showed its respect for his memory by calling the former Anglesea Bridge by his name. In 1902 was held the Cork International Exhibition, which attracted large numbers of visitors from all parts.

    Literary Associations.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 17

60. Glacial lake Lough Coomanassig

    Lough Coomanassig · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Coomanassig, situated 1,500 feet above sea level, is a glacial lake whose basin was hollowed out by a glacier. Lower down the valley, a moraine blocked the valley to form a second tarn known as the eagle's lough.

    Read the passage

    from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one. This basin was hollowed out by a glacier ; lower down the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn — the eagle's lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks — one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone.

    Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 84