Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork.

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. Lough Guitane on the Mangerton ascent

   near Lough Guitane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   A considerable and singularly lovely lake with three small islands, encountered about a mile along the path up Mangerton.

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   and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path- It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top on foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lou?h Guittane, a considerable lake singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil s Puneh Bowl. It is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil's Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom— at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772.

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   As the companion tells it

   This is Lough Guitane, a lake the road passes near on the Mangerton ascent. It is a considerable lake, described as singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. Travellers leaving their ponies below come upon it about a mile along the path. Beyond it the mountain becomes bleak and rugged, and the climb grows tougher, but the views increase in grandeur with every foot of elevation. Higher up lies a curious lake called the Devil's Punch Bowl, a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge. From the great overhanging steeps it looks almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice and lies unrippled, as if frozen over. No fish are found in it, though fish are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo there is fine but peculiar, ringing round and round as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil's Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom, at least the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772.

2. O'Donoghue's Horse rock blown down in storm

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   O'Donoghue's Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks on the Lower Lake, was blown down during a storm and now lies submerged. Other named rocks—O'Donoghue's Table, Prison, Pulpit, and Library—yet survive.

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   which is studded by some thirty islands of varying form and character, some luxuriant with foliage, others barren rocks scarcely large enough to be called islets. O'Donoghue's Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down

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   As the companion tells it

   Lough Leane is studded by some thirty islands, some lush with foliage, others barren rocks scarcely large enough to be called islets. O'Donoghue's Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down in a storm and now lies submerged beneath the lake. O'Donoghue's Table, Prison, Pulpit, and Library yet survive.

3. River Laune outflow to Castlemaine Harbour

   near River Laune · river · Kerry

   The surplus water from the Killarney lakes empties into the sea via the River Laune. This river flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour on the coast of Kerry.

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   The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery surrounding the famous lakes, which are three in number, known respectively as the Upper ; the Middle, or Tore ; and the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane. The lakes are connected by a tortuous stream, called the Long Range, which winds in and out in the most pleasant manner. The lakes are fed by a number of mountain streams, their surplus water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour, on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was admitted by Sir Walter Scott to be finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature ; and after exploring the lakes as recommended in the following pages, we believe most tourists will agree with Thackeray when he pronounces them " too handsome."

   If the visitor is pressed for time and does not fear fatigue, he may, by " galloping over the lakes in one day," get a glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so, he may proceed by Aghadoe ; visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran Tual, descending by the Black Valley ; and return by boat through the lakes. Or he may proceed back through the Gap of Dunloe, and home by Lord Brandon's Cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagles' Nest, Tore and Muckross. Another one day excursion is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O' Sullivan's Cascade, Innisf alien and Ross.

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   As the companion tells it

   The road passes near the River Laune, in Kerry. This is the river that drains the famous lakes of Killarney. There are three of those lakes: the Upper, the Middle or Tore, and the Lower, properly called Lough Leane. They are connected by a winding stream called the Long Range, which runs in and out between them. Mountain streams feed the lakes, and the surplus water all finds its way out through the Laune. The river flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake down to Castlemaine Harbour on the coast of Kerry, where it meets the sea. The Long Range that links the lakes impressed Sir Walter Scott. He admitted it was finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature. Thackeray pronounced the lakes, in his words, too handsome. A visitor pressed for time but not afraid of fatigue could gallop over the lakes in one day and glimpse their prominent features. One route goes by Aghadoe, to Dunloe Castle, up Carran Tual, down through the Black Valley, and back by boat through the lakes. Another goes back through the Gap of Dunloe and home by Lord Brandon's Cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagles' Nest, Tore and Muckross. A further one-day excursion runs by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O'Sullivan's Cascade, Innisfallen and Ross.

4. Sugarloaf Mountain above Glengariff

   Sugarloaf Hill · hill or hills · Tipperary

   The Sugarloaf is the prominent height to the right of the road descending to Glengariff, standing at 1,887 feet. It is described as the most prominent peak in the panoramic view of Kerry's mountains from the hilltop between Kenmare and Glengariff.

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   the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, towards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out Lord Bantry' s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right, and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.

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   As the companion tells it

   Sugarloaf Hill stands at 1,887 feet, the prominent height above the road as you descend toward Glengariff. The mountains are grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, and great valleys stretch away on either hand, with here and there a mountain tarn. It is the most prominent peak in the panoramic view of Kerry's mountains. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the village of Glengariff lies far below, almost buried in foliage. The distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, but it takes no little time to get down. The steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road require a constant application of the brake. Not a single accident has happened on this route since it has been opened for tourist traffic. Lord Bantry's Shooting Lodge sits some distance away, and the noble expanse of Bantry Bay opens out ahead, with the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.

5. Templemore and the Knights Templars

   Templemore · town · Tipperary

   Templemore was founded by the Knights Templars, who left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories that now forms the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey.

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   At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the mam line ; and Ballybrophy station (ref. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic ' of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil's-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The « bit," we are told, formed

   ThLf°Cl° fhel Vi6WS °f Which we get after Posing Tnurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross It was here, in l8So, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen's Colleges as

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   As the companion tells it

   Templemore in Tipperary was founded by the Knights Templars. They left behind a relic of one of their preceptories, and that relic now forms the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view westward from here takes in the Devil's Bit Mountains. The range got its name from a legend that the Devil, benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one of the mountains. Finding it too hard and tough to eat, he dropped it in disgust. There is a gap in part of the range that is said to be the Satanic mouthful. That bit, we are told, fell and formed something the passage refers to further along the road. The Knights Templars chose this ground for their town and left their mark on it in stone. The Abbey grounds still carry the relic of their preceptory at the entrance, a fragment of the order's presence in Tipperary that has lasted where much else has not. The mountains behind it carry a stranger story still, of a hungry Devil and a mouthful of rock he could not stomach.

6. Castlemary Cromlech near Cloyne

   Castlemary · townland · Cork

   Castlemary, located about a mile from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech, a prehistoric monument noted along the route to Ballycotton.

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   The route (b), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney, but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (5|miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted" lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 1 1| feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is

   5^ BA LL Y COT TO N

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   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Castlemary there stands a Druidical cromlech, a prehistoric monument noted by travellers on the route toward Ballycotton. Castlemary itself sits about a mile from Cloyne. The route that passes this way skirts the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney, but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. At Cloyne, 5 miles from Aghada, a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and like others of its class had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 11 feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into 6 storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, of a uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than 100 in Ireland and scarcely any elsewhere, has long puzzled antiquaries.

7. Cork International Exhibition 1902

   Cork · city · Cork · 1902

   The Cork International Exhibition was held in 1902 and attracted large numbers of visitors from all parts.

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   The walls were soon afterwards destroyed, and we hear little more of Cork as a military centre, though it maintained its reputation as " Rebel Cork " until well into the nineteenth century. Mr. Parnell, it will be remembered, was member for Cork at the time of his death, and the city very properly showed its respect for his memory by calling the former Anglesea Bridge by his name. In 1902 was held the Cork International Exhibition, which attracted large numbers of visitors from all parts.

   Literary Associations.

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   As the companion tells it

   Cork kept its name as Rebel Cork well into the 1800s. Its walls had been destroyed, and little more is heard of it as a military centre. Parnell was member for Cork at the time of his death, and the city showed its respect by renaming the former Anglesea Bridge after him. In 1902 the Cork International Exhibition was held here, and it drew large numbers of visitors from all parts.

8. Curran educated at Midleton College

   Midleton · town · Cork

   The famous orator and statesman Curran was educated at the College in Midleton, a town that also derives importance from its extensive whisky distillery and flour mills.

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   There is not much of interest in the journey from Cork to Youghal, except near the commencement, when after passing the riverside suburbs of Tivoli and Dunkettle, we skirt the northern shore of Lough Mahon (see p. 46), and have some pretty peeps down the harbour. At Queenstown Junction the main line trains proceed in a southerly direction to Queenstown, but we continue due eastward. Midleton (population 2,795), about half-way to Youghal, is a military centre, but derives its chief importance from its extensive whisky distillery and flour mills. Curran, the famous orator and statesman, was educated at the College here. Close to the distillery is the ford which Raleigh defended singlehanded against Fitzgerald and his " wild Irish rebels " till his own troops came up. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth, ch. xv. Midleton confers the title of viscount in the peerage of Ireland upon the Brodrick family.

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   As the companion tells it

   Midleton is a town the road passes through, about halfway between Cork and Youghal. The guide records its population as 2,795. It is a military centre, but draws its chief importance from an extensive whisky distillery and flour mills. Curran, the famous orator and statesman, was educated at the College here. Close to the distillery is a ford where Raleigh defended single-handed against Fitzgerald and his wild Irish rebels until his own troops came up. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth, chapter 15. The town also confers the title of viscount, in the peerage of Ireland, upon the Brodrick family.

9. Dean Swift's residence at Unionhall

   Unionhall · town · Cork

   Unionhall is picturesquely situated beside Glandore Harbour, and Dean Swift lived there for a period. Glandore, on the other side of the harbour, was noted for its noticeably mild climate and would make a charming winter resort for invalids.

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   Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of the far-reaching islet known as Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall. Glandore would make a charming winter resort for invalids, the climate being noticeably mild, though this characteristic distinguishes more or less the whole of the south-west of Ireland.

   Leap stands at the mouth of a small stream of the same name, of old considered the boundary between civilisation

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   As the companion tells it

   Coming through Unionhall now, beside Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived here for a time, and you can see why he might have liked it. The harbour stretches far between Unionhall and Glandore on the other side. The climate across this whole stretch of the south-west is noticeably mild, and Glandore in particular was once thought a charming winter resort for invalids.

10. Early Christian remains at Aghadoe

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Aghadoe preserves early Christian and later architectural remains, making it a notable historic site in Kerry. The area also features holy places, islands, and wells that remain objects of pilgrimage or desired burial-places.

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    Archaeology. — Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character — so long undeciphered — and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 183-8.

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    As the companion tells it

    The parish of Aghadoe holds early Christian and later architectural remains. Kerry and Cork abound in older antiquities too, cromlechs and standing stones called gallauns, some bearing writing in the Ogham character, long undeciphered. The Bishop of Limerick collected Ogham-inscribed stones, now seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, once his residence. Staigue Fort near Sneem is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian. But at Aghadoe the remains are early Christian and later, and many holy places, islands, and wells here remain objects of pilgrimage or much-desired burial-places.

11. Elizabeth Fort overlooking Bishop Street

    near Elizabeth Fort · street · Cork

    Elizabeth Fort's dingy wall is visible high up on the left when proceeding westward by Bishop Street from Sullivan's Quay and French's Quay in Cork.

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    Crossing the South Channel by Parliament Bridge, with its single arch, we turn westward by Sullivan's Quay and French's Quay to Bishop Street, noticing high up on the left the dingy wall of Elizabeth Fort. We now reach what is by far the most noteworthy and imposing building in Cork,

    St. Fin Barre's Cathedral,

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Elizabeth Fort, near Bishop Street in Cork, you can see the fort's dingy wall set high up. The wall is noticed when travelling westward from Sullivan's Quay and French's Quay.

12. Fermoy garrison town on the Blackwater

    Fermoy · townland · Cork

    Fermoy is a comparatively modern town of nearly seven thousand inhabitants on the River Blackwater, with large military barracks housing both infantry and cavalry. It serves as a centre for anglers and as a base for visiting Mitchelstown caves.

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    Fermoy is pleasantly situated on the Blackwater, and contains nearly seven thousand inhabitants, besides the troops, both infantry and cavalry, quartered in the large barracks. Being comparatively modern, there is little in the town to interest the tourist, but it is a good centre for anglers, and, having railway communication with Mitchelstown, about ten miles to the north, is a convenient spot from which to visit the celebrated caves and castle {see our Guide to Water ford). The caves are smaller than the Peak Cavern, but are richer than it in stalactites. They are more extensive than Cox's Cave at Cheddar but less beautiful. A low narrow passage gives place to a tunnel of ampler dimensions, leading to a large, circular chamber called the House of Commons. Near this another passage leads past a number of fluted musical columns, appropriately named the " Organ," to the House of Lords, a capacious and well-lighted cavern containing many beautiful and fantastic formations. From the House of Commons access is obtained to Sadleir's Cave, containing an immense stalactite that ha* been humorously

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Fermoy, a comparatively modern town on the River Blackwater with nearly 7,000 inhabitants, besides the troops. Both infantry and cavalry are quartered in the large barracks. There is little in the town itself to interest the tourist, but it is a good centre for anglers. With railway communication to Mitchelstown, about 10 miles to the north, it is a convenient spot from which to visit the celebrated caves and castle. The caves are smaller than the Peak Cavern but richer in stalactites. They are more extensive than Cox's Cave at Cheddar but less beautiful. A low narrow passage gives place to a tunnel of ampler dimensions, leading to a large circular chamber called the House of Commons. Near this, another passage leads past a number of fluted musical columns, appropriately named the Organ, to the House of Lords, a capacious and well-lighted cavern containing many beautiful and fantastic formations. From the House of Commons access is obtained to Sadleir's Cave, containing an immense stalactite.

13. Finest general view of the Killarney lakes

    near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The finest general view of the Killarney lake country is from the elevated ridges at the southern end of the Upper Lake on the road from Glengariff. At a sudden turn, all three lakes are revealed at once, lying in their valley amid encircling hills.

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    The finest general view of the lake country is that from the elevated ridges at the southern end of the Upper Lake on the road from Glengariff. Here at a sudden turn, as at the lifting of a curtain, the three lakes flash upon the eye at a glance, lying in their wondrous valley as if sleeping secure in the guardianship of the encircling hills

    Throughout the entire district, as if to enhance its purely natural attractiveness with the touch of human sympathy are scattered numerous memorials of the greatness or piety of the^past-the mystic stone circles wherein the Druids celebrated their mysterious rites; the venerable abbeys of Aghadoe, Inmsfallen and Muckross, looming out over the placid water of the lake, conspicuous in the landscape

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    As the companion tells it

    The finest general view of the Killarney lake country comes from the elevated ridges at the southern end of the Upper Lake, on the road from Glengariff. At a sudden turn, the three lakes flash upon the eye at a glance, lying in their valley as if sleeping secure in the guardianship of the encircling hills. Throughout the entire district, scattered memorials enhance the natural beauty with human sympathy. There are mystic stone circles where the Druids celebrated their rites, and the venerable abbeys of Aghadoe, Inisfallen and Muckross, looming out over the placid water of the lake, conspicuous in the landscape.

14. Great perched block near Dunmanway

    Dunmanway · town · Cork

    Near Dunmanway in County Cork, a perched glacial block weighing some thousand tons can be seen. It is a notable example of glacial deposition in the region.

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    from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one. This basin was hollowed out by a glacier ; lower down the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn — the eagle's lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks — one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone.

    Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams.

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    As the companion tells it

    Dunmanway in County Cork sits among the signs of the ice age that shaped this part of Ireland. Glaciers hollowed out basins and left deposits behind them as they retreated. One of the clearest marks of that passing is a great perched block near the town. It weighs some thousand tons. A block of that size was carried by ice and set down where you see it now, a notable example of glacial deposition in the region. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen throughout the landscape here, and perched blocks turn up in several places, but the one near Dunmanway stands out for its sheer weight. The guide that records it also notes others: near Kenmare, a huge block of Old Red Sandstone rests on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone. These are all remnants of the same glacial activity that deepened the lakes of Killarney.

15. Lord Bantry's Shooting Lodge near Glengariff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    Lord Bantry's Shooting Lodge is pointed out to tourists on the road descending toward Glengariff, situated some distance away on the right. From the same vantage, the tourist sees the noble expanse of Bantry Bay.

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    the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, towards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out Lord Bantry' s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right, and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Lord Bantry's Shooting Lodge. As the road descends toward Glengariff, great valleys stretch away on either hand, with here and there a mountain tarn among the peaks grouped about the head of Bantry Bay. The Sugarloaf stands prominent. A glimpse of sparkling sea appears, and the village of Glengariff sits almost buried in foliage. The distance is only 5 or 6 miles, but it takes no little time to get down. The steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitate a constant application of the brake. It is a tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The noble expanse of Bantry Bay and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff come into view.

16. Lough Leane: lake of learning and religious houses

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Lower Lake's proper name is Lough Leane, meaning 'the lake of learning,' probably derived from the fact that three religious establishments once stood on its shores. It measures more than five miles long by three wide.

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    The Lower Lake is more than five miles long by three wide ; its proper name is Lough Leane (" the lake of learning "), probably derived from the fact that there were three religious establishments on its shores. We first visit —

    Ross Island,

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    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Leane, the lake the road passes. The name means the lake of learning, likely because three religious houses once stood on its shores. It runs more than 5 miles long by 3 wide.

17. Lough Mahon, the lake-like expanse of the Lee

    near Lough Mahon · channel sound · Cork

    The wide expanse of the River Lee at this point is called Lough Mahon and has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills, woods, far-stretching pastures, and dotted with islands.

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    We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Ten iperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Passage West,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Lough Mahon, the River Lee opens wide and takes on the look of a land-locked lake. Hills and woods and far-stretching pastures border the water, and islands are dotted here and there. The railway skirts it for much of the journey, and when the tide is up the views are said to be entrancing. Nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, the land to the north is not the mainland but Little Island. A conspicuous tower stands on a small eminence there, the Mathew Tower, raised in memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota with its tower, lies the demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have taken its name from a family who taught dancing in Cork.

18. Coachford village favoured by anglers

    Coachford · town · Cork

    Coachford is described as a prettily situated village much favoured by anglers, located on the Coachford railway line west of Cork.

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    The principal stations on the Coachford line are at Cloghroe near to which is Ardrum Castle ; Dripsey, a place of much picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and said to have been built by the same lord ; and Coachford, a prettily situated village much favoured by anglers.

    Following the Blarney branch line we pass the wayside station at Tower Bridge, and draw up at St. Ann's, near to whicfo is the well-known St. Ann's Hill Hydropathic Establishment, founded in 1843 by the late Dr. Barter, and entitled to be considered the precursor of the many establishments of the kind now in existence,* It is picturesquely situated on a sandy soil, and, though elevated, is sheltered by wooded hills. These advantages, combined with the mildness and salubrity of the climate, have made St. Ann's a favourite health resort.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Coachford is a village on the Coachford railway line, west of Cork. It is prettily situated and much favoured by anglers. The railway line has other stations along it too. Cloghroe is one, near Ardrum Castle. Dripsey is another, a place of much picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, said to have been built by the same lord who built Blarney, a kind of companion fortress to it. The guide calls Coachford a favourite, and the line itself runs through country that drew travellers out from Cork for the fishing.

19. Brickeen and Dinish Islands bridge connection

    near Dinish Island · townland · Kerry

    The road runs over Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, which is joined to Dinish Island by another bridge. Dinish Island contains a neat cottage offering refreshments and provides a view of Old Weir Bridge and the Meeting of the Waters.

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    Quitting the demesne and returning to our car, we proceed through the penmsula of Muckross. The road now runs over Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, which is joined to Dinish Island by another bridge. On Dinish Island is a neat Cottage, where visitors can obtain tea and light refreshments. Here we leave the car to follow on foot a little path by the cottage, which brings us to a spot where can be obtained a view of Old Weir Bridge and the famous " Meeting of the Waters."

    Mounting once more, we still keep Tore Lake on the left until we reach the main road leading to the Long Range and the Upper Lake. Do not omit to aak the driver to

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 44

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the road runs over Brickeen Bridge to Brickeen Island, which is joined to Dinish Island by another bridge. On Dinish Island there is a neat cottage where visitors can obtain tea and light refreshments. A little path by the cottage brings you to a spot with a view of Old Weir Bridge and the famous "Meeting of the Waters."

20. Carrignamuck Castle at Dripsey

    Carrignamuck · townland · Cork

    The remains of Carrignamuck Castle stand at Dripsey, described as a companion fortress to Blarney and said to have been built by the same lord. Dripsey itself is noted as a place of much picturesqueness.

    Read the passage

    Read off the scanned page by machine, so a word here and there is misread. Kept as the reading produced it, not corrected.

    The principal stations on the Coachford line are at Cloghroe near to which is Ardrum Castle ; Dripsey, a place of much picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and said to have been built by the same lord ; and Coachford, a prettily situated village much favoured by anglers.

    Following the Blarney branch line we pass the wayside station at Tower Bridge, and draw up at St. Ann's, near to whicfo is the well-known St. Ann's Hill Hydropathic Establishment, founded in 1843 by the late Dr. Barter, and entitled to be considered the precursor of the many establishments of the kind now in existence,* It is picturesquely situated on a sandy soil, and, though elevated, is sheltered by wooded hills. These advantages, combined with the mildness and salubrity of the climate, have made St. Ann's a favourite health resort.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Carrignamuck, the remains of Carrignamuck Castle stand at Dripsey. Dripsey itself is a place of much picturesqueness. The castle is described as a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and is said to have been built by the same lord. Not much more than that survives in the record, but what is written frames it clearly: a fortress linked to Blarney by a shared builder, standing in a spot already noted for its beauty.

21. Glengariff and Bantry Bay coach route

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    A four-horse coach travels along the head of Bantry Bay to Glengariff, described as a beautiful glen on the northern shore where a halt is called for the night. Alternatively, a steamer provides an opportunity to survey the bay.

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    This route is so-called by reason of its having Prince of been followed by His Majesty, when Prince of Rout" Wales, in 1858. The tourist proceeds to the ' Albert Quay station of the Cork, Bandon and South Coast Railway, and thence travels to the western terminus of the line at Bantry. Here he has a choice of two modes of making the next stage of the journey : (a) By the four-horse coach which awaits the arrival of the train and proceeds along the head of Bantry Bay to Glengariff a beautiful glen on the northern shore, where a halt is called for the night ; or (b) Glengariff may be reached by the new steamer Lady Elsie, which runs in connection with the trains and coaches, and provides a welcome opportunity of surveying this lovely bay. The tickets are available by either coach or steamer. Resuming the journey from Glengariff next morning, the tourist is carried into Kerry near Kenmare, from which town travellers have a choice of two routes to Killarney. They may proceed by the branch of the Great Southern and Western Railway which joins the mam line at Headford, the station next to that at Killarney ; or they may retain their seats on the coach, and drive through the mountains of Kerry. The ticket is available by both routes. The Prince of Wales route is, as befits its importance, more fully described on pp. 149-173-

    Circular tours by the Prince of Wales Route to Killarney and back are arranged in connection with the Great Southern and Western ; Great Northern (Ireland) ; Midland Great Western ; Waterford, Limerick and Western ; London and North- Western ; Great Western ; Lancashire and Yorkshire ;

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here the old coach road comes along the head of Bantry Bay toward Glengariff. The route was called the Prince of Wales Route because His Majesty followed it when he was Prince of Wales in 1858. Travellers took the train from Albert Quay station in Cork, on the Cork, Bandon and South Coast Railway, to the western terminus at Bantry. From there they had two choices. They could take the four-horse coach, which waited for the train and drove along the head of Bantry Bay to Glengariff, described as a beautiful glen on the northern shore, where a halt was called for the night. Or they could take the new steamer Lady Elsie, which ran in connection with the trains and coaches and gave the chance to survey the bay. Tickets were valid by either coach or steamer. Next morning the journey resumed from Glengariff, and the coach carried travellers into Kerry near Kenmare. From Kenmare there were two routes to Killarney. They could go by the branch of the Great Southern and Western Railway, which joined the main line at Headford, the station next to Killarney. Or they could keep their seats on the coach and drive through the mountains of Kerry. The ticket covered both routes. Circular tours by the Prince of Wales Route to Killarney and back were arranged in connection with several railways: the Great Southern and Western, the Great Northern of Ireland, the Midland Great Western, the Waterford Limerick and Western, the London and North-Western, the Great Western, and the Lancashire and Yorkshire.

22. Hop Island's dancing-school name origin

    near Hop Island · townland · Cork

    Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork. The tradition links the island's placename to a local family's profession.

    Read the passage

    Read off the scanned page by machine, so a word here and there is misread. Kept as the reading produced it, not corrected.

    We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Ten iperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Passage West,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Hop Island, there is a story about how this place got its name. The guidebook tells of a railway journey where the line skirts the water along Lough Mahon, the wide expanse of the Lee, bordered by hills and woods and pastures, dotted with islands. Little Island lies nearly opposite Blackrock Castle. The Mathew Tower stands on a small eminence, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward beyond the island of Fota is the demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork. That is all the record gives: a family, a profession, a placename linked to both.

23. Killarney town and its water supply from Mangerton

    Killarney · town · Kerry · 1896

    Killarney is a small market town and the property of the Earl of Kenmare, its prosperity dependent on summer visitors. Its water supply is piped from the Devil's Punch Bowl near the summit of Mangerton, and the sewage system was remodelled in 1896.

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    Killarney is a small market town, 186 miles south-west of Dublin, forty north of Cork, and twenty-one to the southeast of Tralee. It is the property of the Earl of Kenmare, and contains some good streets, though a few of the thoroughfares are narrow and old-fashioned. Its prosperity is mainly dependent on the influx of visitors during the summer and autumn. Boot factories give employment to a number of men, and recently the establishment of two rug and carpet factories has given employment to a considerable number of girls. The town is governed by an Urban Council. The water supply is brought in pipes from the Devil's Punch Bowl, near the summit of Mangerton. The sewage system was entirely remodelled in 1896, and is now perfect, pipes having been substituted for the old built sewers and the outfall removed over a mile from the nearest house. The town is lighted both by gas and electricity. It is very healthy, zymotic and lung diseases being practically unknown. An authority already quoted says : *" The climate is remarkably mild and equable. During the early spring months an invalid convalescing from an attack of serious illness would

    * Irish Health Resorts and Watering Places. Dr. Edgar Flinn, Fellow and Member of Council of the British Institute of Public Health.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Killarney sits 186 miles south-west of Dublin, 40 north of Cork, and 21 south-east of Tralee. It is a small market town, the property of the Earl of Kenmare. Some of its streets are good, though a few thoroughfares remain narrow and old-fashioned. Its prosperity depends mainly on the visitors who come in summer and autumn. Boot factories employ a number of men, and two rug and carpet factories recently opened, giving work to a considerable number of girls. An Urban Council governs the town. The water supply comes through pipes from the Devil's Punch Bowl, near the summit of Mangerton. In 1896 the sewage system was entirely remodelled. Pipes replaced the old built sewers, and the outfall was moved over a mile from the nearest house. The town is lighted by both gas and electricity. It is very healthy, zymotic and lung diseases being practically unknown. An authority says: "The climate is remarkably mild and equable. During the early spring months an invalid convalescing from an attack of serious illness would"

24. Maryborough Castle bastion

    Portlaoise · municipal district · Laois

    Maryborough stands on a small tributary of the Barrow with a bastion of its old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood.

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    range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the mam line ; and Ballybrophy station (ref. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic ' of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil's-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The « bit," we are told, formed

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Portlaoise, you are passing the old town of Maryborough, which stands on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attraction is a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood. The castle was part of the original foundation of the town itself, raised so that the newly conquered land around it could be held and its people kept in awe. Close by are the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase. At Maryborough, the branch line to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line, and Ballybrophy station is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the scenery of the Shannon. From here the route enters the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore, traces remain of the Knights Templars who founded the town and left a relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view westward shows the Devil's-Bit Mountains, named from a legend that the Devil, benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one but found it too hard and tough to eat, and dropped it in disgust.

25. Ballynacarriga Castle ruins

    Ballynacarriga Castle · monument · Cork

    The ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle stand on the summit of a rock 40 feet above a lake. The castle is a square pile of buildings visible from the railway journey along the river Bandon.

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    We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot.

    From Clonakilty Junction (twenty-four miles distant from Cork and four from Bandon) a short branch runs down to the sea, some nine miles distant, at

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 79

    As the companion tells it

    A square pile of buildings, Ballynacarriga Castle. Its ruins stand on the summit of a rock, 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot. The castle is visible from the railway journey along the river Bandon.

26. Courtaparteen Church ruins near Kinsale

    Courtmacsherry · town · Cork

    In the neighbourhood of the Old Head of Kinsale are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church, an antiquarian site noted alongside Ringrone Castle.

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    a bold promontory, the name of which — derived from ceann saille, " a headland in the sea " — is happily descriptive. The summit is crowned by a lighthouse. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and Ringrone Castle, the latter of which was built by Milo de Courcey, the ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland (the title goes back to 118 1). De Courcey was selected by King John as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France ; and, being adjudged the conqueror— his rival ran away without striking a blow — received as a reward for his gallantry the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

    KINS ALE l73

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Courtmacsherry, the Old Head of Kinsale rises nearby as a bold promontory, its name from ceann saille, meaning a headland in the sea, with a lighthouse crowning its summit. In the neighbourhood stand the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and Ringrone Castle. Milo de Courcey built the castle and was ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland. King John chose de Courcey as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France, and his rival ran away without striking a blow. For that, de Courcey received the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

27. Lismore market town and its setting

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    Lismore is described as a well-built market-town occupying the summit of a steep hill, famed for the scenery amidst which it stands, its fishing, and its castle.

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    a well-built market-town, occupying the summit of a steep hill, and famed for the scenery amidst which it stands, its fishing, and its castle.

    Lismore Castle is one of the seven seats of the Duke of Devonshire (the others are Chatsworth, Hardwick, Holker, Compton Place, Bolton Abbey, and Devonshire House, Piccadilly). On week-days it is open to visitors from 10.0 a.m. to 6.0 p.m. It occupies a magnificent situation on a wood-clad cliff rising almost perpendicularly from the water's

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 32

    As the companion tells it

    Lismore is a well-built market town on the summit of a steep hill, known for the scenery around it, for fishing, and for its castle. Lismore Castle stands on a wood-clad cliff rising almost perpendicularly from the water. It is one of the seven seats of the Duke of Devonshire, the others being Chatsworth, Hardwick, Holker, Compton Place, Bolton Abbey, and Devonshire House in Piccadilly. On week-days it is open to visitors from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

28. Sheehy Mountain prominence

    Shehy Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Cork

    Sheehy Mountain, rising to 1,747 feet, is a curiously shaped height that stands out conspicuously on the route to Gougane Barra.

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    Leaving Inehigeela, we commence the second section of the drive. It is a noteworthy feature of this route that it presents a sample of almost every kind of scenery. Macroom to Inehigeela is chiefly interesting for the prospect ahead ; Inehigeela to Gougane Barra for the soft loveliness of the lakes • Gougane Barra and Keimaneigh for stern, rugged, mountain scenery ; Keimaneigh to Glengariff for the fine distant seascapes and mountain backgrounds. Five miles after leaving Inehigeela village we have, close to the road, a chain of no less "than six lakes or " broads," the largest of which is Lough Allua. The lakes are really an expansion of the Lee. With their fringe of rushes, white water-lilies and setting of firs, the waters are distinctly picturesque, though they lack the overshadowing heights which give to the lakes of Cumberland and Westmorland so much of their grandeur. The curiously shaped height to the left, which has been for some time conspicuous, is the Sheehy Mountain (i,747 feet). The mountains now close in on either side, and three miles westward of the hamlet of Ballingeary, we stop at Gougane Barra cross-roads, twenty miles from Macroom.

    Gougane Barra.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 81

    As the companion tells it

    The Shehy Mountains rise around you on this stretch toward Gougane Barra. The guide calls this second section of the drive a route that presents a sample of almost every kind of scenery. From Inehigeela to Gougane Barra, the landscape is noted for what the book calls the soft loveliness of the lakes. Five miles after Inehigeela village, close to the road, there is a chain of no less than six lakes, the largest of which is Lough Allua. They are really an expansion of the Lee. With their fringe of rushes, white water-lilies and setting of firs, the waters are distinctly picturesque. The curiously shaped height, which has been for some time conspicuous, is Sheehy Mountain, 1,747 feet. The mountains now close in on either side. Three miles westward of the hamlet of Ballingeary, you reach Gougane Barra cross-roads, twenty miles from Macroom. The guide notes that Gougane Barra and Keimaneigh are known for stern, rugged mountain scenery, and that Keimaneigh to Glengariff brings fine distant seascapes and mountain backgrounds.

29. The Marina, Cork's riverside promenade

    The Marina · street · Cork

    A tree-lined promenade overlooking the River Lee, considered by many the most pleasant feature of Cork. It is accessed via a ferry from near the Great Southern and Western Station to the south side of the river.

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    Ferries.— From near the Great Southern and Western Station there is a ferrv across to the south side of the Lee. This is useful in providing easy access to the Marina, a tree-lined promenade overlooking the river, considered bv many the most pleasant feature of Cork. Another ferry likely to be useful

    day's3 Well°r 15 at ^ WeSt °f the dty' fr°m the Mardyke to Sun- Post Office, a stone-fronted building in George's Street, a little off St. Patrick's Street. English mails are delivered at 7.0 and 11.20 a.m. and 3.15 pm and despatched at 3.15 and 9.51 p.m. Telegraph Office at the General Post Office, is open night and day : and there are branch offices in the Butter Market, Great George's Street, Sunday's Well, and York Stree1, Blackpool, all of which are open from 9 0 am till 7-°A^\°n Zee$~day% only- The telegraph office of the Great Southern and Western Railway Station is open all day on week-days, and from o o a.m. till 2.0 p.m. on Sundays. y' Banks.— Bank of Ireland, Munster and Leinster, National, Hibernian and Provincial Bank of Ireland, all in South Mall ; Ulster Bank 88 St' Patrick's Street ; Provincial, 69, St. Patrick's Street. ' '

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    The Marina is a tree-lined promenade overlooking the River Lee, considered by many the most pleasant feature of Cork. A ferry runs from near the Great Southern and Western Station across to the south side of the river, providing easy access to it. Another ferry goes from the Mardyke to Sunday's Well, west of the city. In George's Street, a little off St. Patrick's Street, stands a stone-fronted Post Office. English mails are delivered at 7.0 and 11.20 in the morning and 3.15 in the afternoon, and despatched at 3.15 and 9.51 in the evening. The Telegraph Office at the General Post Office is open night and day. Branch telegraph offices stand in the Butter Market, Great George's Street, Sunday's Well, and York Street, Blackpool, all open from 9.0 in the morning till 7.0 in the evening on weekdays only. The telegraph office of the Great Southern and Western Railway Station is open all day on weekdays, and from 9.0 in the morning till 2.0 in the afternoon on Sundays. Banks in South Mall include the Bank of Ireland, Munster and Leinster, National, Hibernian, and Provincial Bank of Ireland. The Ulster Bank stands at 88 St. Patrick's Street, and the Provincial at 69 St. Patrick's Street.

30. Galtee Mountains from Limerick Junction

    near Galty Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Limerick

    Leaving Limerick Junction there is a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty peaks in the south of Ireland, with the long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending east and west in front.

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    Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (ref. room) where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending east and west in front

    of US.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Near Limerick Junction the Galtee Mountains come into view. They hold some of the most lofty peaks in the south of Ireland. The long hill of Slieve-na-Muck stretches east and west in front of them, a ridge running across the face of the range.

31. Lismore Castle, seat of the Duke of Devonshire

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    Lismore Castle, one of the seven seats of the Duke of Devonshire, occupies a magnificent situation on a wood-clad cliff rising almost perpendicularly from the River Blackwater. It was open to visitors on week-days from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

    Read the passage

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    Lismore Castle is one of the seven seats of the Duke of Devonshire (the others are Chatsworth, Hardwick, Holker, Compton Place, Bolton Abbey, and Devonshire House, Piccadilly). On week-days it is open to visitors from 10.0 a.m. to 6.0 p.m. It occupies a magnificent situation on a wood-clad cliff rising almost perpendicularly from the water's

    70

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 32

    As the companion tells it

    Lismore Castle is one of the seven seats of the Duke of Devonshire. The others stand at Chatsworth, Hardwick, Holker, Compton Place, Bolton Abbey, and Devonshire House in Piccadilly. The castle occupies a magnificent situation on a wood-clad cliff, rising almost perpendicularly from the River Blackwater. On weekdays it was open to visitors from 10 in the morning to 6 in the evening.

32. Antiquities of Kerry and Cork

    Kerry · county · Kerry

    Kerry and Cork abound in antiquities including cromlechs, standing stones (gallauns), some bearing Ogham inscriptions. Holy places, islands, and wells remain objects of pilgrimage or much-desired burial-places throughout the region.

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    Archaeology. — Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character — so long undeciphered — and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 183-8.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Kerry and Cork are full of old things. Cromlechs and standing stones, called gallauns, stand across the countryside, and some carry writing in the Ogham character, so long undeciphered. The Bishop of Limerick gathered inscribed Ogham stones, and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian. But early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere. Many holy places, islands, and wells remain objects of pilgrimage or much-desired burial-places.

33. Carrigabrick Castle ruin beside the Blackwater

    Carrigabrick · townland · Cork

    The ruin of Carrigabrick Castle stands by the side of the River Blackwater, coming into sight after Clondulane Station. The scenery is particularly beautiful where the railway crosses the river near the ruins.

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    river, is Glencairn Abbey, in a charming demesne open to visitors. The monks' cells are still to be seen in a portion of the building that rises perpendicularly from the brink of the river. About a mile farther the ruined Castle of Ballyduff may be seen on the southern bank. The river is crossed close to the castle, and the traveller must then turn to the right. Rather more than a mile from the bridge he will pass Ballyduff Station, while another mile will bring him abreast of the ruins of Mocollop Castle, with the adjacent modern residence, on the northern side of the river, and a little beyond that he will pass under the line, which runs between the high-road and the river for the next 34 miles. When that distance has been traversed he will again go under the line, and will see Kilmurry House on the opposite bank. After passing Clondulane Station, the road once more crosses the line, and then the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle, by the side of the river, comes in sight.

    Lismore to Fermoy by Rail.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle stands by the side of the River Blackwater. It comes into sight after you pass Clondulane Station, where the road crosses the railway line once more. The journey along this stretch of the Blackwater carries a chain of old places. Upstream, there is Glencairn Abbey, set in a demesne open to visitors, where the monks' cells can still be seen in a part of the building that rises straight up from the river's brink. About a mile beyond that, the ruined Castle of Ballyduff stands on the southern bank, and the river is crossed close to it. Past Ballyduff Station, another mile brings the ruins of Mocollop Castle into view on the northern side of the river, with a modern residence beside it. For the next 34 miles the railway runs between the road and the river, until Kilmurry House appears on the opposite bank. Then comes Clondulane Station, the line is crossed again, and the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle comes in sight beside the water.

34. Castlemore: MacSwiney castle ruins

    Castlemore · townland · Cork · 1400–1499

    About a mile beyond the previous ruins stand the ruins of Castlemore, meaning 'the great castle,' built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century.

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    A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore ("the great castle ") bmt by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth centorv Uose to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha ("the stone budding of David »), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near thf station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane andTL^ we reach the terminus of the railway at— ^

    Macro om,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 81

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stand the ruins of Castlemore, the name meaning the great castle. The MacSwineys built it in the 1400s. What stands now is only what remains of what they raised.

35. Caves and underground streams of County Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    County Cork has many caves and underground streams, part of its distinctive limestone geology. The county also yields various coloured marbles, anthracite coal, lead, iron, manganese, and ochre.

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    Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams.

    Climate. — The mean temperature of Kerry and part of Cork is 510, of the extreme south-west 520. The rainfall is from 40 to 50 inches, but in the south-west it is over 50 and under 75 inches — this is exceeded in parts of Wales, Scotland and the Lake District in England. Winter and summer temperature are very equable, and the air pure. June and September are the driest months in Ireland.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 84

    As the companion tells it

    Beneath County Cork run many caves and underground streams. Chalybeate springs are common throughout the county. It yields various coloured marbles, and anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese, and ochre are also found, though all were once much more worked than now. Copper is present but cannot be profitably worked. Good slates are found as well. The mean temperature in this part of Cork is 51 degrees, while the extreme south-west reaches 52. The rainfall runs from 40 to 50 inches, though in the south-west it is over 50 and under 75. That is exceeded in parts of Wales, Scotland, and the Lake District in England. Winter and summer temperature are very equable, and the air pure. June and September are the driest months in Ireland.

36. Coastal panorama from Howth to Tuskar

    Howth · townland · Dublin

    A steamer from Glasgow skirts the east coast of Ireland, providing a daylight panorama of wonderful variety. The landscape seen from Hill of Howth in Dublin Bay to Wexford Harbour and Tuskar Lighthouse is full of interest if the weather is favourable.

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    An enjoyable method of reaching Killarney from Clyde Scotland is by the steamers of the Clyde Shipping Company. Company. Every Tuesday and Saturday afternoon a powerful, well-appointed vessel, electrically lighted throughout, leaves Glasgow for Cork, and the passage of 352 nautical miles from the Clyde to the Lee is full of interest. The steamer skirts the east coast of Ireland, and if the weather is favourable the land from Hill of Howth

    ROUTES AND FARES 7

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Howth, there's a panorama best seen from the sea. A steamer from Glasgow skirts the east coast of Ireland on its way to Cork, and if the weather holds, the land from the Hill of Howth unfolds with wonderful variety, all the way down to Wexford Harbour and Tuskar Lighthouse. The passage covers 352 nautical miles from the Clyde to the Lee.

37. Dundarieke Castle ruins at Toon Bridge

    Toon Bridge · bridge · Cork

    At Toon Bridge stands the ruined tower of Dundarieke Castle, which was historically a fortress belonging to the MacCarthy family.

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    expanse of Cork Harbour. At Toon Bridge we notice the ruined tower of Dundarieke Castle, a fortress of the Mac- Carthys. Presently on the left we have Castle Masters.

    At Inehigeela (Lake Hotel) a halt is called. We are now ten miles from Macroom, and thirty-four from Cork. The village is mostly resorted to by anglers, trout being plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers. Boats can be hired at sixpence an hour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 81

    As the companion tells it

    A ruined tower, Dundarieke Castle, stands at Toon Bridge in Cork. It was a fortress of the MacCarthys. The guide notes Castle Masters nearby, and Inehigeela, where travellers halt. Inehigeela lies ten miles from Macroom and thirty-four from Cork. Anglers come to the village for the trout in the neighbouring lakes and rivers, and boats can be hired at sixpence an hour.

38. Killorglin at the mouth of the Laune

    Killorglin · town · Kerry

    Killorglin sits at the mouth of the River Laune, twenty-four miles from Killarney by rail and thirteen by road. It serves as a gateway to routes leading southwest to Glencar and Waterville.

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    Killorglin, at the mouth of the Laune, is twenty-four miles by rail, and thirteen by road from Killarney.

    A good road leads south-westward to Glencai : < ,i .1 , miles), whirh is however more often visited from Caragh Lake. Inother road runs 'right through the heart of the promontory to Waterville (28 miles).

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 60

    As the companion tells it

    Killorglin sits at the mouth of the River Laune. It is 24 miles by rail from Killarney, and 13 by road. From here a road runs southwest to Glencar, though more people reach it from Caragh Lake. Another road goes right through the heart of the promontory to Waterville, 28 miles away.

39. Ovens caves and St. Owen patron saint

    Ovens · electoral division · Cork

    The hamlet of Ovens derives its name from St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish. Noted caves exist in the limestone rock at this location.

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    w * u T rm rdgn °f Edward ilL Ato"t two Ss from Balhncolhg, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St, Owen, the patron saint of the parish) there aro ~ noted caves in the limestone rock^hortl^ Ster Teavi Kdlumney statmn, we have, on the right, the ruins of mZl Sr^sTerry. ^ ^ ^ *** * * ^

    A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore ("the great castle ") bmt by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth centorv Uose to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha ("the stone budding of David »), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near thf station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane andTL^ we reach the terminus of the railway at— ^

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 81

    As the companion tells it

    The hamlet of Ovens takes its name from St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish. The word Ovens is a corruption of his name. The limestone rock here holds noted caves. That is what the old guide tells us. No more detail than that. The saint and the caves, and the name that links them.

40. Ruined Castle of Ballyduff on the Blackwater

    Ballyduff · townland · Waterford

    The ruined Castle of Ballyduff stands on the southern bank of the River Blackwater. The river is crossed close to the castle on the road from Lismore toward Fermoy.

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    river, is Glencairn Abbey, in a charming demesne open to visitors. The monks' cells are still to be seen in a portion of the building that rises perpendicularly from the brink of the river. About a mile farther the ruined Castle of Ballyduff may be seen on the southern bank. The river is crossed close to the castle, and the traveller must then turn to the right. Rather more than a mile from the bridge he will pass Ballyduff Station, while another mile will bring him abreast of the ruins of Mocollop Castle, with the adjacent modern residence, on the northern side of the river, and a little beyond that he will pass under the line, which runs between the high-road and the river for the next 34 miles. When that distance has been traversed he will again go under the line, and will see Kilmurry House on the opposite bank. After passing Clondulane Station, the road once more crosses the line, and then the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle, by the side of the river, comes in sight.

    Lismore to Fermoy by Rail.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ballyduff, a ruined castle stands on the southern bank of the River Blackwater. The river is crossed close to the castle on the road from Lismore toward Fermoy. Before reaching it, you would have passed Glencairn Abbey, set in a demesne open to visitors, where the monks' cells can still be seen in a portion of the building rising perpendicularly from the brink of the river. About a mile farther along, the ruined Castle of Ballyduff comes into view on the southern bank. After crossing the river near the castle, the road turns to the right. Rather more than a mile from the bridge stands Ballyduff Station. Another mile brings you abreast of the ruins of Mocollop Castle, with its adjacent modern residence, on the northern side of the river. Beyond that, the railway line runs between the high-road and the river for the next 34 miles. After that distance, the road goes under the line again, and Kilmurry House appears on the opposite bank. Past Clondulane Station, the road crosses the line once more, and then Carrigabrick Castle comes into sight beside the river.

41. Blarney House, residence of Sir George Colthurst

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    A modern mansion adjoining Blarney Castle serves as the residence of Sir George Colthurst, the owner of the demesne. An excellent view over the surrounding country is obtained from the castle battlements, extending over undulating country intersected by the rivers Martin and Col.

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    aZnshtoeUr;! °f ^ ^ ^ ™d™ -n^n adjoins the castle is the residence of Sir George Colthurst the owner 0f the demesne. The view extends o^ a S undulating country, intersected by the rivers Martin, Col

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 27

42. Burial ground near Aghadoe racecourse

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    A cycling route from Killarney through the Deer Park passes a burial ground near the racecourse before turning right to Aghadoe. The route also features a dangerous hill in Deer Park.

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    On leaving park near racecourse, pass burial ground

    Route IV.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 59

43. Entrance to Cork Harbour via Roches Point

    near Cork Harbour · estuary · Cork

    The Clyde steamer makes a straight course across from Tuskar to Roches Point, situated at the entrance to Cork Harbour. This approach offers passengers views of the southern Irish coast and the River Lee.

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    (Dublin Bay) to Wexford Harbour and Tuskar ighthouse affords a panorama of wonderful variety, this portion of the journev being performed in daylight. After passing Tuskar the land recedes from view, the steamer making a straight course across to Roches Point, at the entrance to Cork Harbour. For further particulars, fares, etc., apply to Clyde Shipping Company, Limited, Glasgow.

    Cork to Killarney.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 13

44. Macroom town origin and oak forests

    Macroom · town · Cork

    The town of Macroom derives its name from "the plain of the croom" or "the crooked oak," reflecting a large oak forest that once grew in the area.

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    expanse of Cork Harbour. At Toon Bridge we notice the ruined tower of Dundarieke Castle, a fortress of the Mac- Carthys. Presently on the left we have Castle Masters.

    At Inehigeela (Lake Hotel) a halt is called. We are now ten miles from Macroom, and thirty-four from Cork. The village is mostly resorted to by anglers, trout being plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers. Boats can be hired at sixpence an hour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 81

45. Ruins of Mocollop Castle with modern residence

    Mocollop · townland · Waterford

    The ruins of Mocollop Castle stand on the northern side of the River Blackwater, accompanied by an adjacent modern residence. They are visible from the road between Ballyduff and Fermoy.

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    river, is Glencairn Abbey, in a charming demesne open to visitors. The monks' cells are still to be seen in a portion of the building that rises perpendicularly from the brink of the river. About a mile farther the ruined Castle of Ballyduff may be seen on the southern bank. The river is crossed close to the castle, and the traveller must then turn to the right. Rather more than a mile from the bridge he will pass Ballyduff Station, while another mile will bring him abreast of the ruins of Mocollop Castle, with the adjacent modern residence, on the northern side of the river, and a little beyond that he will pass under the line, which runs between the high-road and the river for the next 34 miles. When that distance has been traversed he will again go under the line, and will see Kilmurry House on the opposite bank. After passing Clondulane Station, the road once more crosses the line, and then the ruin of Carrigabrick Castle, by the side of the river, comes in sight.

    Lismore to Fermoy by Rail.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 34

46. Ballycotton Bay and Lighthouse

    Ballycotton · town · Cork

    Ballycotton is a secluded seaside spot with wild cliffs to the west and an excellent harbour protected by massive piers. Its lighthouse stands on a tiny island separated from the town by a narrow channel, making it a favoured subject for picture-making.

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    Ballycotton lies right out of the beaten track of the tourist and is not known as it deserves to be. Cork people have discovered it, however, and make good use of their knowledge, judging by the villas that are springing up. It is a pleasant, unsophisticated spot, where a family may rusticate with great content and ease. The cliffs to the west are wild and bold, and the sea has scooped out little bays here and there for the very purpose of providing conveniences for bathers. At low tide long stretches of seaweed-covered rock are exposed. Persons who take the cliff paths may be advised not to go too near the edge. There is an excellent harbour, with massive piers running round it, though it seems all too large and expensive for the comparatively few fishing vessels and yachts that shelter here. The Lighthouse stands on a tiny island, separated from the town by a narrow channel. Lighthouses lend themselves to picture-making, and we have rarely seen one better adapted to the purpose than this, though the amateur daubs which adorn the hotels hardly do it justice. To the east can be seen the cliffs that mark the entrance to Youghal Harbour.

    III.— TO BLARNEY CASTLE.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 25

47. Donoughmore market town

    Donaghmore · townland · Cork

    Donoughmore is described as a market town some eight miles distant from St. Ann's station, connected by a branch line chiefly used for agricultural purposes.

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    From St. Ann's station a branch line, chiefly used for agricultural purposes, runs north-westward to Donoughmore, a market town some eight miles distant.

    The terminus of the branch line at Blarney is close to the extensive grounds attached to the castle, and it is only necessary to cross the line to gain admission.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_0, Chapter 26