A Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Baltimore: rebellion, English colony, and Algerian pirate raid of 1631

   Baltimore · town · Cork · 1601–1631

   The owners of Baltimore joined the Tyrone rebellion in 1601 and placed their castles in Spanish hands, leading to an English colony being introduced. In 1631 Algerian pirates attacked the town, massacred inhabitants, and carried off two hundred settlers as slaves.

   Read the passage

   Baltimore has a history of some interest. The owners of the soil joined the Tyrone rebellion in 1601 and placed their castles in the hands of the Spaniards. This led to the introduction of an English colony into the town, which was then walled and incorporated and obtained the privilege of parliamentary representation. In 1631 it was attacked by Algerian pirates, who massacred the inhabitants and carried off two hundred of the settlers as slaves. The Technical School of Fisheries, near the station, an institution of some importance, may be seen by visitors.

   There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, commanding the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church has a fine tower. The Harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three miles long by two broad, and of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical proclivities of the O’ Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 90

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Baltimore, a place with a history of some interest. In 1601 the owners of the soil joined the Tyrone rebellion and placed their castles in the hands of the Spaniards. That led to the introduction of an English colony into the town. The town was then walled and incorporated and obtained the privilege of parliamentary representation. In 1631 it was attacked by Algerian pirates, who massacred the inhabitants and carried off two hundred of the settlers as slaves. Near the station is the Technical School of Fisheries, an institution of some importance. There is a considerable coasting trade between here and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock commanding the harbour is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church has a fine tower. The harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, at the mouth of the bay, about three miles long by two broad. Of old it contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, to punish the piratical proclivities of the O'Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins can be well seen from the Beacon, and only enthusiastic antiquaries would go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

2. Atlantic Cable Station at Valentia

   near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 1857–1866

   The first Atlantic Cable began to be laid from Valentia on August 5, 1857, but snapped six days later after 300 miles. A third attempt succeeded on August 5, 1858, when the first messages passed between Queen Victoria and the President of the United States, though that cable too failed. Permanent success came in 1866.

   Read the passage

   It will be remembered that the first Atlantic Cable began to be laid on August 5, 1857, but six days later it snapped, after three hundred miles had been paid out. A second attempt failed through a violent storm, June 20, 1858. Success awaited the third attempt, and on August 5 the first messages passed between Queen Victoria and the President of the United States. On September 4 this cable also failed, after 271 messages had been transmitted, and it was not until 1865 that another was undertaken. That was cut in midocean, but another was successfully laid in July, 1866, and the one of the previous year raised and finished.

   A Trip to the Skelligs.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 74

3. Father Mathew's temperance crusade in Cork

   Cork · city · Cork · 1838–1845

   Father Mathew came to Cork and for twenty-four years worked among the poorest classes before launching his astonishingly successful temperance movement. In less than three months he enrolled 25,000 teetotalers, and eventually half the population of Ireland took the pledge.

   Read the passage

   The great Irish Apostle of Temperance was born at Thomastown House, Tipperary, in 1790, his father being agent to, and a relative of, Lord Llandaff. The Mathews were originally a Welsh family, but settled in Ireland in 1637. Mathew did not distinguish himself either at school or at Maynooth, except for his reckless hospitality. He is said to have been sent down from Maynooth for violating the college rules by giving a feast in his room. He was ordained a priest in his twenty-third year, attaching himself to the Capuchins. After a short charge at Kilkenny, he came to Cork, and for twenty-four years led a busy and uneventful life amongst the poorest classes of the city. His sterling character and unbounded generosity made him respected and beloved, but probably no one would have been more surprised than himself to learn what a prominent part he was shortly to play. Ireland was at this time in a condition deplorable beyond description. In Carlyle’s words : “ A third part of the Irish people had not for thirty weeks in the year as many third-rate potatoes as would give them food.” Mathew seems constantly to have urged his people to adopt temperance as a remedy for many of their ills, but his words had little effect, nor was he himself a total abstainer. At the age of fortyseven some Quakers begged him to lend his powerful support to a temperance movement they had recently inaugurated. He hesitated long, then called a meeting of his friends, and saying, “ Here goes, in the name of God,” signed the total abstinence pledge. His success as a temperance advocate was immediate and astounding. In less than three months he had enrolled 25,000 teetotalers. A month or two later the number swelled to 130,000, then to 200,000, and ere long it was calculated that half the population of Ireland, then much greater than now, had taken the pledge. 150,000 were known to come forward in four days. What is more, for some years at least, most of the people kept their pledges. The duties on Irish spirits dropped from £1,434,753 in 1839, to £852,418 in 1844. Not only in Ireland, but in Scotland, England, and the States, the Father won hosts of adherents. But his success was comparatively short-lived. The terrible famine of 1845 and subsequent years, and the sufferings it entailed, led many to seek again the old consolation. Mathew was indefatigable in his efforts to provide the necessaries of life for his people, begging from friends and impoverishing himself, but his movement to a great extent collapsed. In expectation of a legacy of £7,000 he had spent large sums in providing badges and tokens for his numerous societies, and when the legacy failed Mathew found himself heavily involved, and was actually on one occasion arrested for debt. To the credit of the English Government, he was awarded a pension of £300. He died, broken in health but still “ pledging,” at Queenstown, on December 8, 1856. A simple cross marks his grave in St. Joseph’s Cemetery, a burial-ground which he himself established so that, in the words of Thackeray, “ Protestants and Catholics might lie together without clergymen quarrelling over their coffins.”

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 24

   As the companion tells it

   As you come through Cork, you are passing through the city where Father Mathew built his temperance crusade. He was born in 1790 at Thomastown House in Tipperary, the son of an agent to Lord Llandaff. The Mathews were a Welsh family who settled in Ireland in 1637. He did not distinguish himself at Maynooth. He was sent down for breaking college rules by giving a feast in his room. He was ordained at 23, joined the Capuchins, and after a short time in Kilkenny he came to Cork. For 24 years he worked among the poorest classes of the city, respected and beloved for his character and generosity. He urged temperance often, but his words had little effect, and he was not himself a total abstainer. At 47, some Quakers asked him to lend his support to a temperance movement they had started. He hesitated a long time. Then he called a meeting of his friends, and saying,

4. St. Ann's Shandon and its famous bells

   near Shandon · locality · Cork · 1722

   St. Ann's, Shandon, dates from 1722 and is famed for its bells, which inspired Father Prout's lyric and gave William Black his novel's title. The pepper-box-like steeple has two colours, four clock dials visible across the city, and bells inscribed with quaint messages including one naming Abel Rudhall of Gloucester as maker.

   Read the passage

   the bells of which gave rise to Father Prout’s lyric (see p. 25) and also provided the late Wm. Black with a title for his well-known novel, Shandon Bells. We have already drawn attention to the two colours of its pepper-box-like steeple, but otherwise the building does not call for comment. It dates from 1722. There are quaint inscriptions on the bells, one of which states that “ Abel Rudhall, of Glo’ster, made us all.” The tower clock has four dials and can be seen from nearly all parts of the city. Father Prout was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower.

   Just beyond and above Shandon Church is St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Cathedral,

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

   As the companion tells it

   As you come into Shandon, the church you are passing dates from 1722. Its pepper-box steeple has two colours, and its tower clock has four dials that can be seen from nearly all parts of the city. The bells are famous. They gave rise to Father Prout's lyric and provided the late William Black with a title for his novel, Shandon Bells. The bells carry quaint inscriptions, one of which reads, "Abel Rudhall, of Glo'ster, made us all." Father Prout was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower.

5. Bandon as the Protestant 'Southern Derry'

   Bandon · town · Cork · 1600–1700

   Bandon was long almost exclusively Protestant and was called the Southern Derry. The first Earl of Cork boasted that no Papist or nonconformist was allowed to live in the town, and tradition records an inscription above the gateway reading “Enter here, Turk, Jew, or Atheist, Anybody but a Papist,” to which a wag allegedly replied with a chalked couplet about the gates of hell. In the early seventeenth century some 2,000 English families reportedly resided in the town and neighbourhood.

   Read the passage

   Bandon was for a long time almost exclusively Protestant, and on that account was called the Southern Derry. Indeed, the first Earl of Cork recommended it to royal favour and protection, on the ground that “ no popish recusant, or unconforming novelist, is admitted to live in all the town ” ; and Smith, who wrote in 1750, left on record that “ in the town there is not a popish inhabitant, nor will the townsmen suffer one to dwell in it, nor a piper to play in the place, that being the music formerly used by the Irish in their wars.” It was enclosed by strong walls, and tradition has it that the corporation had the following couplet inscribed above the gateway : —

   “Enter here, Turk, Jew, or Atheist,

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 91

6. Drake's Pool — Francis Drake hides from Spanish fleet, 1587

   Drake's Pool · minor feature · Cork · 1587

   In 1587 Admiral Sir Francis Drake, fleeing a powerful Spanish fleet with five sloops, entered Cork Harbour. The Spaniards searched every creek and channel for days but never found him; he had hidden behind woods on the Carrigaline River. The secluded spot became known as Drake's Pool.

   Read the passage

   Spanish fleet which was desirous of making his further acquaintance. With his five little sloops he made for Cork harbour, and was by the Spaniards clearly seen to enter. The tactics which served the Americans in 1898, when Admiral Cervera was in similar plight at Santiago, did not serve Cervera’s predecessors in the days of Queen Bess. Instead of waiting quietly until Drake should come out, the Spaniards went in to look for him. They scoured the harbour from east to west, and from north to south, exploring as they thought every creek, winding and channel, but Drake was not to be seen. For days the search continued, and at length the Spaniards, attributing his disappearance to magic, thought well to disappear also. Upon which out came "Drake with his merry men from behind those very woods .Which seem to mark the water's limit ! The secluded spot has^since been known as Drake’s Pool.

   Crosshaven.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 30

7. Grand Parade built over former dock, arched 1780

   Cork · city · Cork · 1780

   The Grand Parade, Cork's widest street, stands on what was once a large dock arched over in 1780. The western side was Tuckey's Quay and the eastern side the Mall, connected by a bridge bearing an equestrian statue of George II known as 'George-a-cock-horse.'

   Read the passage

   A few yards further we turn left into the Grand Parade, the widest street in Cork. It stands on what was once a large dock, arched over in 1780. Up to that time the western side was known as Tuckey’s Quay, and the eastern as the Mall — the latter then a pleasant promenade, shaded with trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge on which stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, colloquially known as “ George-a-cock-horse.” The Grand Parade is notable for an immense circular fountain which stands in the middle of the roadway. There is an inscription round it relating to one Berwick, but we are not aware that any one has ever been known to make the extensive circuit for the sake of reading it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable Markets are on the Parade.

   CORK

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

   As the companion tells it

   As you make your way through Cork, the Grand Parade opens up as the widest street in the city. It stands on what was once a large dock, arched over in 1780. Before that, the western side was known as Tuckey's Quay and the eastern side as the Mall, which was then a pleasant promenade shaded with trees. The two sides were connected by a bridge, and on that bridge stood an equestrian metal statue of George II, known to people as "George-a-cock-horse." Today the Parade is notable for an immense circular fountain standing in the middle of the roadway, with an inscription around it relating to one Berwick, though it seems no one has ever been known to make the full circuit just to read it. The principal meat, fish and vegetable markets are on the Parade.

8. Bog-slide at Rathmore, Christmas 1896

   Rathmore · townland · Cork · 1896

   At Christmas 1896, a massive bog-slide occurred near Quarry Lodge, north of Rathmore station. Bogach-na-Mine, 'the bog of the meal,' some two hundred acres in extent, moved bodily southward, sweeping away houses and suffocating some occupants.

   Read the passage

   The direct line to Killarney runs due west from Mallow, following the course of the Blackwater. There are five intermediate stations, but we only need notice those of Rathmore and Headford, the latter because it is the junction of the Kenmare branch ( see p. 148) ; the former to recall the bog-slide which took place near Quarry Lodge, to the north of the station, at Christmas, 1896, when Bogach-na-Mine, “ the bog of the meal,” some two hundred acres in extent, rolled bodily in a southerly direction, sweeping away houses and suffocating some of their occupants.

   Mallow to Cork.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 21

   As the companion tells it

   Close to Rathmore, at Christmas in 1896, a bog called Bogach-na-Mine, "the bog of the meal," rolled bodily southward. It was some 200 acres in extent. The slide began near Quarry Lodge, north of the station, and swept away houses, suffocating some of their occupants.

9. Perkin Warbeck's rebellion and Cork's lost charter

   Cork · city · Cork · 1492–1498

   When Perkin Warbeck arrived in 1492, the citizens of Cork embraced his cause ardently, and the mayor Walters took a leading role, losing his head as a result. Cork lost its charter and, still suspect, was invested in 1498 by the Earl of Kildare, who compelled every inhabitant to swear fealty to Henry VII.

   Read the passage

   what was far worse, their own money. The English Parliament went the length of calling the Cork coinage “ utterly damned,” an outbreak of temper which was perhaps excusable, but not dignified. The Cork people of those days seem to have possessed a genius for aggravation, for, while declining to send representatives to Parliament, they turned deaf ears to the solicitations of the tax gatherer on the ground that they had had no share in voting the taxes ! When Perkin Warbeck came in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour, and the mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, losing his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter ; and, being still “ suspect,” was invested in 1498 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong force, when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. When it was intended to proclaim James I, the mayor took upon himself to ask the Lords Commissioners what were the king’s intentions in the matter of freedom of conscience, and failing to obtain a satisfactory answer, clapt “ my lords ” into Shandon Castle, pending further information. When it was found that James was not their man, the citizens declined to permit the proclamation, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason.

   In 1600, Camden describes the city as “of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one straight street, continued by a bridge ; it is, however, a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.”

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Cork, you are in a city that once backed the wrong pretender and paid for it dearly. The Cork people had a gift for provoking authority. They refused to send representatives to Parliament, and they ignored the tax gatherer on the grounds that they had no share in voting the taxes. The English Parliament even called the Cork coinage utterly damned. When Perkin Warbeck arrived in 1492, the citizens embraced his cause with ardour. The mayor, Walters, was rash enough to take a leading part in the expedition, and lost his head in the unhappy sequel. What was of more importance, Cork lost its charter. Being still suspect, the city was invested in 1498 by the Earl of Kildare with a strong force, when every individual inhabitant was compelled to swear fealty to Henry VII. The spirit did not leave them. When it was intended to proclaim James I, the mayor asked the Lords Commissioners what the king's intentions were on freedom of conscience. Failing to get a satisfactory answer, he clapt my lords into Shandon Castle pending further information. The citizens declined to permit the proclamation, and it required the Lord Deputy himself and a large army to bring them to reason. In 1600, Camden described the city as of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, passable only by bridges. He called it a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.

10. Early monastery on Great Skellig devastated by Danes

    near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry · 812–1826

    The Great Skellig, the larger of two detached rocks off the Kerry coast, once held a monastery whose ruins survive. The island was devastated by the Danes in 812 and the monks starved in their cells. Until recently it served as a place of penance, visited annually by devotees who climbed to the highest summits performing orisons at stations along the way.

    Read the passage

    tached rocks, the largest of which — the Great Skellig— is about nine miles from Bolus Head, the southern cape of county Kerry, and some twelve to the south-west of Bray Head. They are the favourite haunt of sea-birds, notably gannets ; at times, indeed, they are nearly covered with them. The larger island is an enormous mass of slaty rock, divided, at the height of about fifty yards, into two pyramidal summits, the higher of which reaches an altitude of some 700 feet ; the other is 100 feet lower. In early times there was a monastery here, the ruins of which may still be seen ; but the island was devastated by the Danes in 812, and the monks were starved in their cells. Until recently, the island was a place of penance, and was annually visited by great numbers of devotees, who climbed the highest summits, stopping at various stations and performing orisons at each. Two lighthouses were erected on the island in 1826 and are connected by a road along the face of the cliff.

    Cahirciveen to Parknasilla.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 75

11. Macroom Castle and Admiral Penn birthplace

    Macroom · town · Cork · 1199–1216

    Macroom Castle is said to have been built in the reign of King John. It is noted as the birthplace of Admiral Sir William Penn, father of the founder of Pennsylvania. The huge square keep is covered with beautiful variegated ivy.

    Read the passage

    Macroom Castle is said to have been built in the reign of King John, and is interesting as the birthplace of Admiral Sir William Penn, the father of the founder of Pennsylvania. The huge square keep is covered with beautiful variegated ivy.

    From Macroom a direct road runs north-west to Killarney (about 30 miles), via Ballyvourney, following the course of the river Sullane, then over the Derrynasaggart Mountains to the Flesk Valley, striking the railway near Loo Bridge station on the Kenmare- Killarney branch line.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94

12. Mutiny of the Temeraire at Bantry Bay

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

    The crew of the Temeraire, the old battleship of Turner's famous painting, mutinied at Bantry Bay. Admiral Eyles had twenty ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen were hanged from the yard-arm.

    Read the passage

    It was here that the crew of the Temeraire (the old battleship of Turner’s famous painting) mutinied; but the firmness of Admiral Eyles probably saved his own life and the lives of his officers. He had twenty of the ringleaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen of them were hung from the yard-arm.

    Whiddy Island,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 88

13. Rock of Cashel cathedral burnt by Earl of Kildare

    Cashel · townland · Cork · 1495

    The cathedral on the Rock of Cashel was burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare, who explained he did so because he thought the archbishop was inside. This act curiously gained him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland.

    Read the passage

    of the Rock are among the finest in the country. The edifice was benevolently burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare, “ because he thought the archbishop was within ! ” This . candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the Cathedral, there are on the rock Cormac’s Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, 90 feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from — but in full view of — the Rock.

    Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (ref. room), where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station, we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending east and west in front of us.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cashel in Tipperary, the Rock stands over the town with the ruins of what was once among the finest cathedral architecture in the country. In 1495 the Earl of Kildare burnt the cathedral. His explanation was that he thought the archbishop was inside. That candid admission, curiously, gained him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the cathedral, there is Cormac's Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its round tower standing 90 feet high. The Grey Abbey, also called Hore Abbey, was founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel, in 1278. It lies a quarter of a mile from the Rock but in full view of it, a picturesque ruin. The Rock carries the weight of Munster's kings and the church that replaced them, and the mark of an earl who set fire to it and was rewarded for his honesty.

14. St. Patrick's Street built on arched river branch

    Cork · city · Cork

    St. Patrick's Street, Cork's main shopping thoroughfare, is semicircular because it is built on arches over a former deep branch of the river where ships were once laden and unladen. It was lined with handsome shops and hotels.

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    the “ Regent Street ” of Cork, a thoroughfare lined with handsome shops and hotels, but sadly lacking in uniformity. The seeker for souvenirs and suitable presents for the home folk is not likely to find a better place for shopping in the south of Ireland. The semicircular shape of the street is accounted for by the fact that it is built on arches over what was once a deep and important branch of the river, in which ships were laden and unladen. In the bend one notices on the left the Victoria Hotel.

    Winthrop Street leads from St. Patrick’s Street to George’s Street, where stands the Chief Post Office, a handsome stonefronted building, recently erected at a cost of £4.0,000. Lower down are the Imperial Hotel and Commercial Buildings.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, St. Patrick's Street is the main shopping thoroughfare. A guide once called it the Regent Street of Cork, lined with handsome shops and hotels, though sadly lacking in uniformity. The shape gives away its history. The street curves in a semicircle because it is built on arches over what was once a deep and important branch of the river, where ships were laden and unladen. In the bend you notice the Victoria Hotel. Winthrop Street leads from here to George's Street, where the Chief Post Office stands, a handsome stone-fronted building recently erected at a cost of 40,000 pounds. Lower down are the Imperial Hotel and the Commercial Buildings.

15. Cork Court House with Corinthian portico

    Cork · city · Cork · 1891

    The Court House on Western Road has a Corinthian portico praised by Macaulay as doing honour to Palladio, with columns 30 feet high. It was completely gutted by fire on Good Friday, 1891, accounting for its apparent newness.

    Read the passage

    From the Parade, Great George’s Street leads to Western Road and the terminus of the Light Railway to Blarney and Coachford. The tourist would do well to proceed in this direction at least as far as the Court House, the Corinthian portico of which, according to Macaulay, “ would do honour to Palladio.” The columns are 30 feet high, and rest on a platform 6\ feet above the level of the street, approached by a flight of eleven steps. On the apex of the pediment is a group of figures representing Law and Mercy supporting Justice. The interior contains two courts and other apartments. The central hall, with its lofty dome, is very imposing. The apparent newness of the Court House is accounted for by the fact that it was completely gutted by a fire which broke out on Good Friday, 1891.

    At the end of the Grand Parade we reach the South Channel. The premises of the Cork City Club prevent a turning rightward, and we therefore turn into the South Mall, another broad thoroughfare, in which stand most of the banks and the offices of the principal professional men. On Charlotte Quay stands the —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the Court House on Western Road is worth noting. Its Corinthian portico drew praise from Macaulay, who said it would do honour to Palladio. The columns stand 30 feet high, resting on a platform 6 feet above the street, reached by a flight of eleven steps. On the apex of the pediment is a group of figures representing Law and Mercy supporting Justice. Inside are two courts and other apartments. The central hall, with its lofty dome, is very imposing. The building looks new for good reason. It was completely gutted by a fire that broke out on Good Friday, 1891. What you see now is what came after that.

16. Fastnet Rock Lighthouse

    near Fastnet Rock · townland · Cork

    On the summit of the Fastnet Rock, about four miles west by south of Cape Clear, is a lighthouse whose light is 148 feet above high-water mark, visible for eighteen miles, with a flash of five seconds per minute.

    Read the passage

    three miles long by one and a half broad at its widest part. It is almost divided in two near its southern extremity. This, the highest part of the island, presents an inaccessible cliff to the sea, and — as every schoolboy knows — is the first land sighted by vessels on their approach from America. On the summit of the Fastnet Rock, distant about four miles west by south, is a lighthouse, the light of which is 148 feet above high-water mark, and is visible for eighteen miles. It has a flash of five seconds per minute.

    The island of Clear is called in the old Irish MSS. Irtish Damhly, and in the ecclesiastical books, Insulce Sancta Clara. It is so far from the centre of civilisation that the inhabitants have retained more of their original customs and language than is the case in any other part of the United Kingdom.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    Near here, out on the Fastnet Rock, about four miles west by south of Cape Clear, stands a lighthouse. Its light is 148 feet above high-water mark and visible for eighteen miles. It gives a flash of five seconds per minute. Cape Clear itself is three miles long and one and a half broad at its widest part, almost cut in two near its southern end. That southern end is the highest point, an inaccessible cliff facing the sea. As the old saying had it, it is the first land sighted by vessels coming from America. The island is called Irtish Damhly in the old Irish manuscripts and Insulae Sancta Clara in the ecclesiastical books. It lies so far from the centre of civilisation that its people have kept more of their original customs and language than anywhere else in the United Kingdom.

17. Ballincollig Barrett Castle and gunpowder works

    near Ballincollig · town · Cork · 1327–1377

    Ballincollig, meaning 'town of the wild boar,' had barracks and gunpowder works. Its conspicuous square tower is part of the ruin of a castle built by the Barretts during the reign of Edward III.

    Read the passage

    Cemetery, and glimpses of other parts of the city, and have a run of nearly seven miles to Ballincoiig (“ the town of the wild boar ”), with its barracks and gunpowder works. The conspicuous square tower is part of the ruin of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. About two miles from Ballincollig, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish), there are some noted caves in the limestone rock. Shortly after leaving Killumney station, we have, on the right, the ruins of Kilcrea Abbey, and on the left the Castle, built in 1465, by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry.

    A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore (“ the great castle ”), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century. Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha (“ the stone building of David ”), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney, we reach the terminus of the railway at —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94

18. Buttevant and its Spenser connection

    Buttevant · town · Cork

    Buttevant is a garrison town of some importance whose chief interest lies in its connection with the poet Edmund Spenser, who resided in the neighbourhood. The town serves as a gateway to the nearby ruins of Kilcolman Castle.

    Read the passage

    Leaving the junction, the main line turns due south, and next passes Butte vant, a garrison town of some importance. Its chief interest lies in its connection with Spenser, who resided in the neighbourhood. The ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where the poet acted as secretary to Lord Grey of Wilton, lord deputy of Ireland, are some four or five miles from Buttevant. It was here that the first three books of the Faerie Queen were written.

    Leaving Buttevant and continuing our southward course, we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important railway junction (ref. room), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the convenience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 20

19. Derrynane, home of Daniel O'Connell

    Derrynane · street · Limerick

    Derrynane on the shore of Derrynane Bay is noteworthy as the home of Daniel O'Connell, now occupied by his descendants. It is an irregular pile of buildings, partly castellated, with a chapel and interesting relics viewable by courtesy of the proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey stand on a peninsula that becomes isolated at spring tides.

    Read the passage

    noteworthy as the home of Daniel O’Connell, and now occupied by his descendants. It is an irregular pile of buildings, partly castellated, and the grounds improved with shrubberies and plantations, so far as the situation, so much exposed to westerly gales, will allow. The chapel in the building and some interesting relics can be seen by the courtesy of the proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey stand on a peninsula, which at spring-tides becomes isolated. Though the monastery is said to have been founded in the seventh century by the monks of St. Fin Barre, the remains are not older than the thirteenth. Here is the family grave of the O’Connells, but “ the great agitator’s ” remains repose beneath a lofty round tower in the Glasnevin Cemetery at Dublin. Close to Derrynane is a small, but snug, harbour, with a diminutive quay at which vessels of two hundred tons burthen may discharge their cargoes. Near Caherdaniel, the adjoining hamlet, is a small stone fort. We presently reach West Cove, on the northern shore of the Kenmare estuary, and then Castle Cove. A mile and a half up the valley on the left is —

    141

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 76

    As the companion tells it

    Along here on the shore of Derrynane Bay, you're coming up on Derrynane, the home of Daniel O'Connell, now lived in by his descendants. It's an irregular pile of buildings, partly castellated, with the grounds improved by shrubberies and plantations so far as the exposure to westerly gales will allow. A chapel stands in the building, and some interesting relics can be seen by courtesy of the proprietor. The ruins of Derrynane Abbey stand on a peninsula that becomes isolated at spring tides. The monastery is said to have been founded in the seventh century by the monks of St. Fin Barre, but the remains are not older than the thirteenth. Here is the family grave of the O'Connells, though the great agitator's own remains lie beneath a lofty round tower in Glasnevin Cemetery in Dublin. Close to Derrynane there's a small snug harbour with a diminutive quay where vessels of 200 tons burthen may discharge their cargoes. Near Caherdaniel, the adjoining hamlet, is a small stone fort.

20. Dunboy Castle ruins at Bearhaven

    near Dunboy · street · Cork

    The ruins of Dunboy Castle stand at the eastern or seaward entry of the haven formed by Bear Island. The site furnished J.A. Froude with material for his novel 'The Two Chiefs of Dunboy'.

    Read the passage

    certainly prove a formidable rival to Queenstown when the proposed lines to Bantry and Kenmare are constructed. The haven formed by Bear Island is strongly fortified. At the eastern or seaward entry of the haven stand the ruins of Dunboy Castle, which furnished the late Mr. J. A. Fronde with a title and some material for his novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy. The cyclist can return by the road over the Slieve Miskish Mountain to the south shore of Kenmare river, and thence eastward by way of Ardgroom and Kilmakilloge Harbours, Derreen (a seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne), and Clonee Lakes, to Kenmare, The whole round

    1 5 8 CASTLETO WN BE A RHA VEN

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Dunboy, you have the ruins of Dunboy Castle. They stand at the eastern or seaward entry of the haven formed by Bear Island. The haven is strongly fortified. These ruins furnished the late Mr. J. A. Froude with a title and some material for his novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy.

21. Dunloe Castle and the 1641 siege

    Dunloe Castle · castle · Kerry · 1641

    Dunloe Castle stands prominently on a small hill, originally erected for defence of the river pass and guarding Dunloe Gap. It withstood severe struggles during the reigns of Henry and Elizabeth, and in the civil war of 1641 General Ludlow besieged it; the garrison only surrendered after the greater part of the fortress had been laid in ruins.

    Read the passage

    standing prominently on the summit of a small hill. It is a fine object in the landscape, and the views from it are extremely picturesque. Originally erected for the defence of the pass of the river and for guarding Dunloe Gap, the fortress withstood some severe struggles during the reigns of Henry and Elizabeth. In the civil war of 1641 General Ludlow besieged it ; the garrison made a brave defence, and only surrendered when the greater part of the fortress had been laid in ruins. The castle has been adapted as a residence, but retains enough of its warlike character to show how capable of withstanding the brunt of combat it was in the brave days of old. The excursion to Dunloe Castle is frequently made by water, the row along the river Laune being particularly pleasing.

    Continuing the ride for another half-mile, we reach the entrance to the celebrated —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 63

22. Innisfallen Abbey founded by St. Finian Lobhar

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry · 600

    Innisfallen Abbey was built in 600 by St. Finian Lobhar ('the Leper') and inhabited by Canons Regular of the order of St. Augustine. The monks compiled the celebrated 'Annals of Innisfallen,' a parchment manuscript now held in the Bodleian Library, Oxford.

    Read the passage

    The remains of Innisfallen Abbey, scattered all over the island, show that it was at one time very extensive. It was built in the year 600 by St. Finian Lobhar (“ the Leper ”), and inhabited by Canons Regular of the order of St. Augustine, who busied themselves in the compilation of the celebrated “ Annals of Innisfallen,” which, with those of Ulster Tigernach, form the real history of Ireland after the introduction of Christianity. The original manuscript is in the Bodleian Library, Oxford ; it is on parchment, and contains fifty-seven quarto leaves. Several copies have been made. There is one in Dublin, in the library of Trinity College. In 1893 the Archaeological Society of Ireland made a thorough examination of the ruins of the abbey. They discovered several old tombstones and the altar — which was restored to its proper place — beneath the beautiful east window. The stones of this window were found buried near the spot and the Society had it re-erected.

    Having walked round the island, and visited all the spots worth seeing, not omitting the ruins of the Oratory, of older date than the monastery, we row across the lake to —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 60

23. Lough Hyne: O'Donnell castle ruins and children's graveyard

    near Lough Hyne · lake or lakes · Cork

    Lough Hyne is a marine cul-de-sac with a narrow inlet from the sea. On an islet in the centre are ruins of an old castle of the O'Donnells, and on the shore is a graveyard devoted exclusively to the burial of children.

    Read the passage

    Skibbereen is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, standing at the spot where the Hen widens out to form the creek. The town is unattractive, and has suffered severely during successive famines. A walk or drive that should not be missed is that to Lough Hyne (about 4 miles), a kind of marine cul de sac, with a very narrow inlet from the sea. The country is wild and desolate in the extreme, but the immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In the centre is an islet, on which are the ruins of an old castle of the O’Donnells ; and on the shore is one of those graveyards devoted exclusively to the burial of children to be found nowhere but in Ireland.

    Toe Head, to the eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, are between us and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory which shuts in Castle Haven, at the head of which is Castletownshend (several Inns), of old known as Sleugleig, its modern name and that of the bay being derived from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming up on Lough Hyne, a marine lake with a narrow inlet from the sea. The country around is wild and desolate, but the immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In the centre is an islet, on which are the ruins of an old castle of the O'Donnells. On the shore is one of those graveyards devoted exclusively to the burial of children, found nowhere but in Ireland. The guide says Skibbereen, about 4 miles from here, is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, standing where the river widens out to form the creek. It has suffered severely during successive famines. Toe Head, eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, stand between the viewer and the land. The ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory which shuts in Castle Haven. At the head of Castle Haven is Castletownshend, of old known as Sleugleig. Its modern name and that of the bay come from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

24. MacCarthy submits to Henry II at Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1170–1177

    MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, held Cork when the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow occurred. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge Henry II's sovereignty, but the king rewarded him by occupying his capital and granting most of his territory to knights Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan.

    Read the passage

    As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authorities ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the “ holy friars ” of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. The good man enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted disciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a century or two of quiet, during which the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood as well. Right coming on, the invaders are said to have repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advantages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly fortified; making it a centre from which to pillage the surrounding country. In course of time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestowing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal’s territory. But though Henry retained Cork in his own hands, the inhabitants of the island city ceem to have enjoyed an almost total independence, making their own laws, and,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    The road is taking you through Cork now. The city's founding is disputed. Some say Saint Fin Barre built a church and a residence here in the seventh century, and that a town grew up round it, famous across Europe for the learning of its scholars. Others say the Danes founded it, about 200 years later. The passage suggests both may be right. The Danes landed, plundered the religious settlement and the town beside it, then repaired to an island in the centre of the stream. They saw the defensive advantage at a glance, fortified the place, and used it as a base to pillage the surrounding country. In time the Danish colony was absorbed into the neighbouring race, but the old book says the effects lingered in the local love of the sea and a roving life. The next thing certain is the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow. MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry the Second. Henry rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital. He bestowed the greater portion of MacCarthy's territory on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan. Henry retained Cork in his own hands, but the inhabitants of the island city seem to have kept an almost total independence, making their own laws.

25. Origin of the word 'Blarney' from Queen Elizabeth

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    The word 'blarney,' meaning pleasant deluding talk, is said to have originated when Queen Elizabeth declared of McCarthy of Blarney's evasive speeches, 'This is all Blarney; what he says he never means.' McCarthy had repeatedly promised to abjure Tanistry and take tenure from the Crown but never complied.

    Read the passage

    “ The word ‘ Blarney,’ meaning pleasant ‘ deluderin’ talk,’ is said to have originated at the court of Queen Elizabeth. McCarthy, the then chieftain over the clan of that name who resided at Blarney, was repeatedly asked to come in from * off his keeping,’ as the phrase in the State Papers goes, to abjure the system of Tanistry by which the clan elected the chief, and take tenure of his lands direct from the Crown. He was always promising with fair words and soft speech to do what was desired, but never could be got to come to the sticking point. The Queen, it is told, when one of his speeches was brought to her, said : ‘ This is all Blarney ;

    what he says he never means.’ ”

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 35

26. Poor Clares Convent and Kenmare lace

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1886–1893

    The Convent of Poor Clares in Kenmare is the most important feature of the town. The nuns train pupils in making the famous Kenmare lace, which won first place at the South Kensington competition of 1886 and at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893.

    Read the passage

    beauty of the designs. Some of the lace is valued at its weight in gold. It won the first place in the South Kensington competition of 1886, and has held its own at other exhibitions — notably at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. The girls also excel in singing. The convent is a handsome building, in a cheerful sunny situation, surrounded with shrubberies and flower-beds, and adorned with some marble statues.

    Kenmare to Killarney.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the convent of the Poor Clares, the most notable feature of Kenmare. The nuns train pupils in making Kenmare lace, prized for the beauty of its designs and valued at its weight in gold. It won first place at the South Kensington competition of 1886 and also held its own at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893. The convent is a handsome building in a cheerful sunny spot, surrounded by shrubberies and flower-beds.

27. Queen Victoria's 1849 visit renames Cove as Queenstown

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork · 1849

    Queenstown was formerly called Cove. Its present name derives from Queen Victoria landing there during her visit to Ireland in 1849.

    Read the passage

    Queenstown was formerly known as Cove, its present name arising from the fact that Queen Victoria landed here on her visit to Ireland in 1849. Apart from its importance as a port of call for the American liners, and as a great naval and military station, Queenstown is rapidly acquiring a reputation as a health resort, particularly for the winter. Says a reliable authority : —

    “ The climate is remarkably mild and equable, and, at the same time, fairly dry and tonic, and is especially suitable as a winter and spring residence for persons with delicate chests, to sufferers from chronic catarrhal throat affections, and to convalescents from acute diseases. It is particularly appropriate as a seaside resort to persons requiring a soothiqg and sedative atmosphere. From the position of Queenstown, winds from the colder points are very little felt, and it is completely protected from the north, north-east and north-west winds. The mean temperatures of the season are exactly similar to those at Torquay, and higher than those of Bournemouth, Hastings and Ventnor. As a winter health resort Queenstown possesses all the best natural and climatic advantages.”

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 29

28. Mizen Head signal tower and Ptolemy identification

    near Mizen Head · promontory · Cork

    Mizen Head, the extreme south-western point of Ireland, is identified as Ptolemy's Notium Promontorium. The headland rises 765 feet and has an old signal tower at its summit. Brow Head lies just to the south, separated by Barley Cove.

    Read the passage

    almost insulate Mizen Head (the Notium Promonlorium of Ptolemy), the extreme south-western point of Ireland. The first view of this headland, 765 feet high, is peculiarly striking. At the top is an old signal tower. A little to the south, and separated from it by Barley Cove, is Brow Head. Three Castle Head, the extreme point of Dunmanus Bay, is so named from three old fortresses of the Mahony sept. The tiny town of Goleen is the nearest headquarters for the exploration of these crooked, sea-indented and almost unknown promontories.

    Resuming the railway journey eastward from Bantry to Cork, at Drimoleague Junction, we reach Dunmanway, formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland in the reign of Queen Anne.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 91

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Mizen Head, you're at the extreme south-western point of Ireland, the headland Ptolemy called Notium Promontorium. It rises 765 feet, and at the top stands an old signal tower. The first view of it is peculiarly striking. Just to the south, separated by Barley Cove, lies Brow Head. The nearest little town for exploring these sea-indented promontories is Goleen.

29. Timoleague Abbey founded by MacCarthys in 1372

    Timoleague · town · Cork · 1372–1518

    Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua, its name deriving from ty-Mologua, “the house of Mologua.” It was the largest of the many religious houses in county Cork. The remains comprise the nave, choir and south transept, with a beautiful square tower 68 feet high added by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross, in 1518.

    Read the passage

    The former residence of the Earls of Shannon is now the Esplanade Hotel. Timoleague Abbey was erected in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua (hence its name, derived from ty -Mologua, “ the house of Mologua ”). It was the largest of the many religious houses in the county of Cork. The visitor is not, therefore, surprised at the grandeur of the remains, which comprise the nave, choir and south transept, with a beautiful square tower, 68 feet high, added by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross, in 1518.

    Timoleague is three miles to the west, at the head of the bay, and possesses a station.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 91

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Timoleague, you're passing one of County Cork's grandest religious houses. The abbey was put up in 1372 by the MacCarthys and dedicated to St. Mologua, its name coming from ty-Mologua, the house of Mologua. It was the largest of the many religious houses in the county. The remains still standing include the nave, choir and south transept, along with a square tower 68 feet high added in 1518 by Edward Courcy, Bishop of Ross.

30. Youghal charter, yew-wood origin and town walls

    Youghal · town · Cork

    Youghal received its first charter from King John and takes its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. The town was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides.

    Read the passage

    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “ great ” Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : “ All my wealth was £2 7 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries/ with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 37

31. Castletownshend castle and the 1602 naval engagement

    Castletownshend · town · Cork · 1602–1690

    Castletownshend, formerly known as Sleugleig, derives its name from a castle belonging to the Townsends that was twice besieged in vain by followers of King James. In 1602 the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between Spaniards under Don Pedro de Zubiar and the British fleet commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

    Read the passage

    Toe Head, to the eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, are between us and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory which shuts in Castle Haven, at the head of which is Castletownshend (several Inns), of old known as Sleugleig, its modern name and that of the bay being derived from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

    Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of the far-reaching islet known as Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall. Glandore would make a charming winter resort for invalids, the climate being noticeably mild, though this characteristic distinguishes more or less the whole of the south-west of Ireland.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Castletownshend, set at the head of Castle Haven, where the western promontory that Toe Head terminates shuts in the bay. The place was once called Sleugleig. Its modern name, and that of the bay, come from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends. That castle was twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. The castle held both times. Earlier, in 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement. The Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zubiar, met the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison, in these waters. Looking out from here, Toe Head commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, stand between the water and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight.

32. Danes fortify the island city of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 800–899

    After plundering the religious settlement at Cork, the Danes recognised the defensive advantages of the island in the centre of the river and established a strongly fortified town there, using it as a base to raid the surrounding country.

    Read the passage

    As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authorities ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the “ holy friars ” of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. The good man enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted disciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a century or two of quiet, during which the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood as well. Right coming on, the invaders are said to have repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advantages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly fortified; making it a centre from which to pillage the surrounding country. In course of time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestowing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal’s territory. But though Henry retained Cork in his own hands, the inhabitants of the island city ceem to have enjoyed an almost total independence, making their own laws, and,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, the city itself carries a story that goes back over a thousand years. There has been disagreement about who founded it. Some say St. Fin Barre established a settlement here in the seventh century. Others give the credit to the Danes, about 200 years later. The truth may be that both are right. St. Fin Barre chose a pleasant spot near the present city and built a church and a residence there. His reputation for sanctity drew disciples from all quarters, and a town grew up around the settlement. For a century or two it was quiet, and the place became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars. Then the Danes landed. They plundered the religious establishment and the prosperous town that had grown beside it. Seeing the island in the centre of the river, they recognised its defensive advantages at a glance and decided to stay. A new town sprang up on the island, which they strongly fortified, making it a base from which to raid the surrounding country. In time the Danish colony was absorbed into the neighbouring race, but the effects of that fusion are said to remain to this day in the love of the men of Cork for the sea and a roving life. This is nearly all that is known of Cork for centuries. The next certainty is the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, held the city. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry the Second, who rewarded him by sending an army to occupy his capital.

33. Gap of Dunloe: St Patrick's last serpent at Black Lough

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    Black Lough, the farthest of the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes in the Gap of Dunloe, is noted for the inky blackness and coldness of its waters and its lack of fish. Local tradition holds that this is the spot where St Patrick drowned the last serpent.

    Read the passage

    The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies Mountain from the Macgillycuddy Reeks, and running almost due south for about four miles. The gates of this romantic valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarcely give room for the road. The hills on either side are spurs of the great mountains, called respectively the Holly and Bull Mountains. A small stream traverses the valley, expanding in places into gloomy lakes, called the Cummeen Thomeen Lakes, remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters. The farthest of them, Black Lough, exceeds the others in this respect and in coldness. While the other lakelets abound in fish, this has none ; and Paddy assures us that this is due to the fact that the lake is the identical spot where St. Patrick drowned the last serpent.

    Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side in wild confusion, apparently ready to topple over and crush the visitor. The narrow torrent is twice crossed by the road, the brawling waters intensifying the desolate but sublime character of the scene. As we advance, the outline of the mountains changes. Huge boulders appear above the path, and shattered fragments of rock strew the steep mountain slopes. The Purple Mountain, with all its chromatic beauties ; the Tomies, with its glowing lights and intense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their aspiring summits ; then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold, still, and silent as death, combine to make a picture which has no equal in Killarney. It is a scene of utter solitude and desolation — a picture of the valley of the shadow of death. In a distance of about two miles after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road rises some 400 feet, the way being encumbered with rocks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 64

34. Kinsale town and its Spanish-origin houses

    Kinsale · town · Cork · 1690

    Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill at the mouth of the river Bandon, with houses of evident Spanish origin rising tier above tier on rock-excavated sites. The ruins of an old fort, deemed impregnable until it fell to Marlborough in 1690, overlook the town.

    Read the passage

    Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon. It has a quaint appearance, its houses, many of which are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some being perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river ; and the ruins of the old fort, which was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, add piquancy to the outlook. There is a charming public walk, shaded by trees, around Compass Hill, which commands a series of good views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove (the favourite quarters of summer visitors), and the entire neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church, dedicated to, and said to have been built by, a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions than the lower portion, terminating in a broach spire.

    Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a “ sovereign ” and other officials. It has an interesting history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the “ native Irish,” from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. J-ames II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 92

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Kinsale, the houses climb tier above tier up the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon. Many are plainly of Spanish origin, set on sites cut out of the solid rock, some perched on projecting crags, and the streets follow the windings of the river below. The ruins of the old fort overlook the town. It was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, a capture that extinguished the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II had landed here in 1689 to begin the campaign that ended disastrously for him at the Boyne. The Spaniards had frequently captured and held Kinsale over the centuries, which accounts for the character of those houses climbing the hillside. The town took part in every struggle between the Saxons and the native Irish, from the time Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown. It was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III. For centuries it was the most important port on the coast, though it has long since given way to Queenstown. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town itself is the Parish Church, said to have been built by a female saint, St. Multose, in the 14th century.

35. Siege of Blarney Castle by Ireton

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1649–1650

    Cromwell's forces under Ireton besieged Blarney Castle, an event commemorated in contemporary verse describing the defenders looking over the battlement wall at the attackers.

    Read the passage

    The history of Blarney Castle might be related at great length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the brave days of old are not likely greatly to interest the present generation. Suffice it to say that the structure, the third on the site, dates from about 1446, and was built by the then powerful Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir, “ the strong.” Of the siege of the castle by Cromwell’s forces under Ireton we have the following picturesque account in Kipling-like verse : —

    “ It was now the poor boys of the Castle looked over the battlement wall,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 34

36. Spike Island, former convict station

    Spike Island · townland · Cork

    Spike Island, also known as Fort Westmoreland, is the largest of the island group in Cork Harbour. It was formerly a convict station, and many government works were executed by convict labour.

    Read the passage

    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 28

37. English colony at Kenmare harassed and expelled

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1670–1691

    Petty's English colony at Kenmare established fisheries and iron works but was harassed by the Irish. After some resistance they surrendered and were allowed to embark for Bristol. The colony was re-established after William III's conquest of Ireland, but the iron trade declined when forests were exhausted.

    Read the passage

    Kenmare is a fairly prosperous market town, at the head of the beautiful estuary to which it gives its name ; or, rather, from which it receives its name, for, according to Dr. Joyce, Kenmare signifies “ head of the sea.” The town is chiefly interesting to tourists from its position as a kind of coaching junction, being the half-way place between Glengariff and Killarney, and the terminus of the Kerry coast tour. It also possesses a lively interest from the fact that it is the halting-place for luncheon, for which, after a long mountain drive, most passengers are more than ready. Whether the Southern or the less pretentious Lansdowne be patronised, good value is given. Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen, and owes its existence to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty, having obtained a grant of land, planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established' a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale ; but were harrassed by the Irish, and surrendering, after some resistance, were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ireland by William III, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed ; but the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Kenmare, this place sits at the head of a beautiful estuary. It was originally known as Nedeen. According to Joyce, the name means "head of the sea." The town owes its existence to Sir William Petty, ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty obtained a grant of land and planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale. But the colonists were harassed by the Irish. After some resistance they surrendered, and were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. When William III conquered Ireland, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed. But the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel.

38. Synod of Thurles, 1850

    Thurles · town · Tipperary · 1850

    In 1850 a famous synod assembled at Thurles, condemning the Queen's Colleges as 'godless' and recommending the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879.

    Read the passage

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line ; and Ballybrophy station (vef. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as “ godless,” recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

    From the next station, Goold’s Cross, a new light railway, with steam motor coaches, runs to —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Thurles, in the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster, this is the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel. It is the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, built in 1168-9 to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen's Colleges as "godless," recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland. After passing through, views of the Rock of Cashel appear. That rock, we are told, was formed from a piece of the Devil's Bit Mountains, a range visible to the west. The range got its name from a legend that the Devil, benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one of them, but finding it too hard and tough to eat, dropped it in disgust. A gap in the range is said to be the Satanic mouthful, and the dropped bit formed the Rock of Cashel. Before reaching here, the railway passes Ballybrophy station, junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon, and Templemore, where traces of the Knights Templars survive.

39. Kissing the Blarney Stone tradition

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    Visitors kiss the Blarney Stone by lying on their backs, grasping iron bars between parapet and wall, while someone sits on them to prevent over-balancing. A clever twist of the neck is needed to impart the salute.

    Read the passage

    The postcards which are sold showing the old style of osculatory action, with an unfortunate kisser hanging by the heels over the parapet while his alarmed companions hold him for all they are worth, may be taken as picturesque exaggeration. We have the best authority for saying that the stone inside the parapet will serve the purpose of the wouldbe spouter equally well. But to kiss even this is not so easy as it looks. You must lie on your back on the paving, grasp the iron bars between the parapet and the wall, while somebody sits on the lower part of your body to prevent overbalancing, and by a dexterous twist of the neck you will just be able, should you so desire, to impart the chaste salute. It is as well not to look down while so engaged.

    An excellent view over the surrounding country is obtained from the summit of the tower. The modem mansion which adjoins the castle is the residence of Sir George Colthurst, the owner of the demesne. The view extends over a rich, undulating country, intersected by the rivers Martin, Co-

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 35

40. St. Mary's Church, Youghal, and Desmond college of 1464

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1464

    St. Mary's Church occupies the site of a church existing before the Norman invasion. It was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the 'great' Earl of Cork. Its massive 50-foot tower is known as Cromwell's.

    Read the passage

    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “ great ” Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : “ All my wealth was £2 7 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries/ with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 37

41. Blarney Castle built by Cormack MacCarthy

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1446

    Blarney Castle, the third structure on the site, dates from about 1446 and was built by Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir, 'the Strong.' The doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds are associated with the castle.

    Read the passage

    The history of Blarney Castle might be related at great length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the brave days of old are not likely greatly to interest the present generation. Suffice it to say that the structure, the third on the site, dates from about 1446, and was built by the then powerful Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir, “ the strong.” Of the siege of the castle by Cromwell’s forces under Ireton we have the following picturesque account in Kipling-like verse : —

    “ It was now the poor boys of the Castle looked over the battlement wall,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 34

42. Cork surrenders to Cromwell in 1649

    Cork · city · Cork · 1649

    At the outbreak of war between Charles I and Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause. But on Cromwell's approach in 1649, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, the citizens surrendered at discretion.

    Read the passage

    At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause ; but on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at discretion.

    When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song : —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Cork now. When war broke out between Charles 1 and Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause. But when Cromwell approached in 1649, the citizens had the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, and they surrendered at discretion. Later, when Charles 2 was restored, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. Then on the deposition of James 2 the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale was captured a few days later, and this gave rise to a famous Jacobite song.

43. Old Head of Kinsale lighthouse and promontory

    near Old Head of Kinsale · promontory · Cork

    The Old Head of Kinsale is a bold promontory whose name derives from 'ceann saille,' meaning a headland in the sea. Its summit is crowned by a lighthouse.

    Read the passage

    a bold promontory, the name of which — derived from ceann saille, “ a headland in the sea ” — is happily descriptive. The summit is crowned by a lighthouse. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and Ringrone Castle, the latter of which was built by Milo de Courcey, the ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland (the title goes back to 1181). De Courcey was selected by King John as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France ; and, being adjudged the conqueror — his rival ran away without striking a blow — received as a reward for his gallantry the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 92

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Old Head of Kinsale, this bold promontory takes its name from the Irish "ceann saille," meaning a headland in the sea. The summit is crowned by a lighthouse. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ringrone Castle, built by Milo de Courcey, ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier baron of Ireland, a title going back to 1181. King John chose de Courcey as his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France. His rival ran away without striking a blow, so de Courcey was adjudged the conqueror and received the privilege of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign, a privilege still preserved.

44. Sherkin Island Franciscan abbey and castle destroyed by Waterford citizens

    near Sherkin Island · townland · Cork

    Sherkin Island, about three miles long by two broad, contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by citizens of Waterford to punish the piratical proclivities of the O'Driscolls, who owned the island and surrounding lands.

    Read the passage

    There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, commanding the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church has a fine tower. The Harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three miles long by two broad, and of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical proclivities of the O’ Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

    The Schull and Skibbereen Light Railway,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 90

45. Blarney Castle caves and secret passages

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    Beneath Blarney Castle lie lofty caves and secret passages running through the rock, formerly used as prisons. Memento-hunters have chipped off nearly all stalactites and stalagmites.

    Read the passage

    The attendant guide will first conduct the visitor to the Caves and the secret passages which run in all directions through the rock on which the castle stands. These subterranean chambers are very lofty — and occasionally very dirty — but the irrepressible memento-hunter has chipped off nearly all the stalactites and stalagmites. The caves were formerly used as prisons.

    Persons who prefer the light of day will at once make their way to the Keep, a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet high, capped by machiolated battlements, which, it will be noticed do not form part of the wall, but are built out from it in a sort of staging, with the object of enabling defenders to drop stones and other trifles on to the heads of assailants. In addition to the keep, there are extensive remains of other buildings.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 34

46. Cloyne Round Tower: lightning-damaged antiquity

    Cloyne · town · Cork

    Cloyne's famous Round Tower adjoins the Cathedral and is in good preservation. Originally 92 feet high with a conical roof, it was damaged by lightning after being fitted as a belfry, and repaired with a battlement raising its height to 102 feet. Dr. Petrie conjectured such towers were erected as places of refuge and treasure houses for monks.

    Read the passage

    The route ( b ), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney,. but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (5^miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 1 1|- feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is

    56

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 31

47. Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art

    Cork · city · Cork · 1883–1885

    The Crawford Schools occupy the site of the old Custom House, granted by the Crown to the Corporation in 1883. The new buildings were the gift of William H. Crawford and opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885, housing a gallery of works by Cork artists including Maclise.

    Read the passage

    The Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art. (Visitors are admitted to the museum, class rooms, and lecture theatre daily, Sundays excepted, from 10. o to 10.0.) This important institution occupies the site of the old Custom House, which having been used by the Royal Cork Institution till it ceased to exist, was granted by the Crown to the Corporation in 1883, f°r the erection of the schools. The new buildings were the gift of the late Mr. William H. Crawford (hence their name), and were opened by the then Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885. In addition to classrooms for painting, lacemaking, modelling, and other subjects, there is a small sculpture and picture gallery, containing a collection of works by Cork artists, headed, as is only proper, by Maclise. The

    42 CORK

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    In Cork, the Crawford Municipal Schools of Science and Art stand on the site of the old Custom House. That building had been used by the Royal Cork Institution until it ceased to exist, and the Crown granted it to the Corporation in 1883 for the erection of the schools. The new buildings were the gift of the late William H. Crawford, and they were opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1885. The schools hold classrooms for painting, lacemaking, modelling, and other subjects, and a small sculpture and picture gallery with a collection of works by Cork artists, headed, as the guide says, by Maclise. Visitors are admitted daily, Sundays excepted, from ten o'clock to ten o'clock.

48. Cromwell's Fort and lighthouse on Valentia

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 1649–1660

    The lighthouse on Valentia Island stands at Cromwell's Fort, so named because Oliver Cromwell erected forts at each end of the island to safeguard the coast and prevent hostile privateers from using the harbour. The American Commander Paul Jones later used the harbours and creeks for concealment.

    Read the passage

    The visitor should not leave without inspecting the lighthouse and the monument to the memory of the late Knight of Kerry, both of them built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell' s Fort, as the headland is named, a reminiscence of the fact that Noll erected forts at each end of the island, as well to safeguard the coast as to prevent the captains of hostile privateers from using the

    1 36 VALENTI A ISLAND

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 73

49. Dromana Castle and the Countess of Desmond

    Dromana · townland · Waterford

    Dromana Castle, overlooking the Blackwater and environed with beautiful plantations, was the birthplace of the Countess of Desmond, celebrated for longevity, said to have lived 140 years. Her death was caused by a fall from a nut-tree, according to tradition preserved by the Earl of Leicester.

    Read the passage

    rocks, have a peculiarly venerable and pleasing appearance. The new castle of Strancally is seen embowered in extensive woods, above which rise its lofty towers and battlements. Further on, and also overlooking the river, is Dromana Castle, environed with beautiful plantations. Here was born the Countess of Desmond, celebrated for longevity, who is said to have lived 140 years, and whose vitality was only then crushed by a fall from a tree.

    She was born in the reign of Edward IV, and lived far into the reign of J ames I. The tradition, preserved by the Earl of Leicester, is that her life was ended by accident. “ She must needs,” says he, “ climb a nut-tree to gather nuts ; so, falling down, she hurt her thigh, which brought a fever and that brought death.” She was the second wife of the twelfth Earl of Desmond, a family of such immense possessions and influence that it could place 5,000 or 6,000 men in the field. The Countess was personally known to Raleigh, who received a grant out of the Desmond property, which had been forfeited by the rebellion of the sixteenth earl, in 1579. Raleigh was under an obligation to plant it with English families, and we find him excusing himself for the nonfulfilment of this engagement by saying, “ There remaynes unto me but an old castle and demavne which are yet in the occupation of the old Countess of Desmond for her jointure.”

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 39

50. Muckross Abbey: Franciscan friary on the site of the Church of Irrelagh

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1340

    Muckross Abbey occupies the site of the old Church of Irrelagh, burned around 1192. The present Franciscan friary was founded in 1340 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. Remains include a church 100 feet long with choir, nave, transept, a square tower, and well-preserved cloisters forming a square of 36 feet.

    Read the passage

    which occupies the site of the old-world Church of Irrelagh (a name meaning “ the building on the lough ”), burned somewhere about 1192. The present ruins, however, are old enough in all conscience, the Abbey, which was inhabited by Franciscan friars, having been founded in 1340 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. There are the remains of the church, 100 feet long, consisting of choir, nave and transept. The breadth of the choir is about 25 feet, and the transept is 35 feet in length. In the centre is a strong square tower. The transept is united to the nave by a lofty arch ; on the opposite side a narrow doorway leads to the cloisters, the best preserved and most interesting part of the structure. The buildings form a square of 36 feet.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 51

51. Ogham stones at Parknasilla

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    The Bishop of Limerick collected stones bearing Ogham inscriptions, long undeciphered, which may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence.

    Read the passage

    Archaeology. — Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character — so long undeciphered — and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 183-8.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 98

    As the companion tells it

    Along here at Parknasilla in Kerry, there are stones bearing Ogham inscriptions, that old form of writing so long undeciphered. They were collected by the Bishop of Limerick, and they may now be seen in the grounds of the Parknasilla Hotel, which was formerly his own residence. Antiquities abound in this part of Ireland, cromlechs and standing stones called gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character.

52. Renaming of Anglesea Bridge to Parnell Bridge

    Cork · city · Cork · 1882

    The former Anglesea Bridge in Cork was rebuilt in 1882 and renamed Parnell Bridge to honor the late senior member of parliament for the city. Parnell had been the member for Cork at the time of his death.

    Read the passage

    The streets are spacious, but of irregular formation — a state of things attributable to their having been originally erected on the banks of the streams which separated the islands (now united), the opposite sides of which were connected by bridges. As Macaulay puts it : “ The city extended over about onetenth part of the space which it now covers, and was intersected by muddy streams, which have long been concealed by arches and buildings. A desolate marsh, in which the sportsman who pursued the waterfowl sank deep in water and mire at every step, covered the area now occupied by stately buildings, the palaces of great commercial societies.” As a reference to our plan will show, the central portion of the city is connected with those parts on the banks of the Lee by numerous bridges, the chief of which are St. Patrick’s and the Parnell Bridges. The latter, formerly known as the Anglesea Bridge, was rebuilt in 1882, and re-named, as we have said, in honour of the then senior member for the city. St. Patrick’s Bridge is remarkable as being broader than any bridge which spans the Thames except Westminster, the new structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London Bridge ; it is over 60 feet within the parapets. The bridge dates from 1859, and occupies the site of an older structure erected in 1798, and destroyed by flood in 1853. These two bridges are indirectly connected by three of the widest and best streets in Cork — St. Patrick’s Street, the Grand Parade, and the South Mall ; and directly by the Merchants’ Quay, on the south bank of the North River, and Warren’s Place, which rivals in width and regularity the three streets already mentioned.

    The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for many years the only means of communication with the surrounding country. The bridges are connected by North and

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, the road carries you across ground that was once a marsh. The city's streets are spacious but irregularly laid out, because they were originally built along the banks of streams that separated islands, and those islands have since been united. Macaulay described the old Cork as intersected by muddy streams concealed under arches and buildings, a desolate marsh where a sportsman pursuing waterfowl sank deep in water and mire. The central portion of the city is connected to the parts along the banks of the Lee by numerous bridges, chief among them St. Patrick's and the Parnell Bridges. The Parnell Bridge was formerly known as the Anglesea Bridge. It was rebuilt in 1882 and renamed in honour of the then senior member for the city. St. Patrick's Bridge is remarkable for being broader than any bridge that spans the Thames, except Westminster, the new structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London Bridge. It measures over 60 feet within the parapets. It dates from 1859 and stands on the site of an older structure erected in 1798, which was destroyed by flood in 1853. These two bridges are indirectly connected by three of the widest and best streets in Cork: St. Patrick's Street, the Grand Parade, and the South Mall. They are directly connected by Merchants' Quay on the south bank of the North River, and Warren's Place, which rivals those three streets in width and regularity.

53. Rosscarbery's famous university and St. Faughnan's abbey

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 1612

    According to Hanmer, Rosscarbery was once the site of a famous university. St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh in county Waterford, removed to Rosscarbery and founded an abbey whose church became the cathedral of a new see, with the saint as its first bishop. In 1612 the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site and the old abbey left to decay; a carved head in the south wall of the ruins is pointed out as that of the founder.

    Read the passage

    Rosscarbery Bay indents the coast somewhat deeply to the west of Galley Head. Hanmer tells us that the town was once the site of “ a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning’s sake.” The place acquired great celebrity from the sanctity of St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh, in county Waterford, who, removing to Rosscarbery, founded an abbey here. The church of this abbey was in due time made into the cathedral of a new see, of which the saint became the first bishop. In 1612, the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey and its church were allowed to decay. Its ruins are now to the south of the cathedral, a carved head in the south wall being

    CO UR TMA CSHERR Y—BA NDON

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 91

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Ross Carbery in Cork. Hanmer says this town was once the site of "a famous university, whereto resorted all the south-west part of Ireland for learning's sake." The place also drew fame from St. Faughnan, abbot of Moelanfaidh in county Waterford, who came here and founded an abbey. Its church became the cathedral of a new see, with St. Faughnan as first bishop. In 1612 the cathedral was rebuilt on a new site, and the old abbey was left to decay. Its ruins lie south of the cathedral, and a carved head in the south wall is pointed out as that of the founder.

54. Ross Castle keep and O'Donoghue legend

    Ross Castle · castle · Kerry

    The keep of Ross Castle is nearly perfect, consisting of a massive square tower with a spiral stone staircase. Guides point out the window from which the O'Donoghue supposedly leaped on horseback into the lake.

    Read the passage

    The keep of the castle is nearly perfect ; it consists of a massive square tower, with a spiral stone staircase to the top. Originally, it was enclosed by an embattled curtain wall, having round flanking towers at each side. It is one of the most prominent ornaments to the lake, not less for its associations than for its intrinsic beauty as a ruin. The guide will point out a hundred places connected with the memory of the O’Donoghue, including the identical window where he leaped, charger and all, into the lake.

    Ross Island is nearly in the middle of the lake, and stretches almost half across it. Close to the castle is the quay at which the tourist generally embarks, whether his object be to explore the beauties of Innisfallen or to row through the whole of the lakes.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 59

55. Ruins of Aghadoe: church, round tower and castle

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry · 600–1300

    Aghadoe preserves the remains of a church, a round tower and a round castle standing side by side as relics of Paganism and Christianity. The round tower fragment measures 52 feet in outer circumference; the round castle, called the 'Bishop's Chair,' stands about 30 feet high with walls 7 feet thick and is thought to date from the ninth century. The cathedral's nave is believed to date from the seventh century and the choir from the thirteenth, with a Romanesque doorway of exquisite beauty in the western wall.

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    The remains consist of a church, a round tower and a round castle. Only a part of the lower storey of the Round Tower remains ; it is easy to ascend, the height of the fragment being only about 12 feet. It measures in outer circumference 52 feet ; the thickness of its wall was 3^- feet. The stones, laid in regular courses, are large and well dressed ;

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 62

56. St. Fin Barre's early settlement at Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 600–699

    St. Fin Barre is credited with founding Cork in the seventh century by erecting a church and residence near the present city site. His reputation for sanctity attracted disciples from all quarters, and a town gradually grew around the religious settlement.

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    As with most places of old-world fame, the foundation of the city of Cork has been the subject of dispute, some authorities ascribing it to St. Fin Barre, in the seventh century, and others to the Danes, 200 years later. Probably both are right. The saint, whose name is still preserved by the stately Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel, with that appreciation of a pleasant place for which the “ holy friars ” of all ages have been noted, erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. The good man enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and attracted disciples from all quarters. A town gradually sprang up round the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. But, after a century or two of quiet, during which the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars, the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town which stood in its neighbourhood as well. Right coming on, the invaders are said to have repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, the advantages of which, from a defensive point of view, they saw at a glance. Appreciating their quarters, the Danes decided to remain, and another town sprang up, which they strongly fortified; making it a centre from which to pillage the surrounding country. In course of time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects of the fusion remain, it is said, to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all we know of Cork for centuries ; though tradition has not been idle. The next thing certain is the fact of the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and his Majesty rewarded him for this act of grace by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestowing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal’s territory. But though Henry retained Cork in his own hands, the inhabitants of the island city ceem to have enjoyed an almost total independence, making their own laws, and,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, this is a city whose origins are disputed. Some authorities credit St. Fin Barre with founding it in the seventh century, others the Danes 200 years later. Probably both are right. St. Fin Barre's name is still preserved by the Protestant Cathedral and a Roman Catholic Chapel in the city. The saint erected a church and a residence near the site of the present city. He enjoyed a great reputation for sanctity, and disciples came to him from all quarters. A town sprang up around the settlement, and it was hoped that its sacred character would afford immunity from molestation. After a century or two of quiet, the foundation became famous throughout Europe for the learning of its scholars. Then the Danes landed and plundered the religious establishment and the well-to-do town nearby. The invaders repaired to the island in the centre of the stream, saw its defensive advantages at a glance, and decided to remain. They built another town, strongly fortified, making it a centre from which to pillage the surrounding country. In time the Danish colony became absorbed in the neighbouring race, but the effects remain to this day in the love of the men for the sea and a roving life. This is all that is known of Cork for centuries. The next thing certain is the Anglo-Norman invasion under Strongbow, when MacCarthy, Prince of Desmond, was in possession of the city and the neighbourhood. He was the first Irish chief to acknowledge the sovereignty of Henry II, and Henry rewarded him by sending an army to occupy his capital and bestowing on two of his own knights, Robert FitzStephen and Mico de Cogan, the greater portion of his new vassal's territory.

57. Blarney Castle Keep and battlements

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1446

    The Keep at Blarney Castle is a square, well-preserved structure 120 feet high with machiolated battlements built out from the wall to allow defenders to drop stones on assailants. Extensive remains of other buildings also survive.

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    Persons who prefer the light of day will at once make their way to the Keep, a square, well-preserved structure, 120 feet high, capped by machiolated battlements, which, it will be noticed do not form part of the wall, but are built out from it in a sort of staging, with the object of enabling defenders to drop stones and other trifles on to the heads of assailants. In addition to the keep, there are extensive remains of other buildings.

    The history of Blarney Castle might be related at great length, but the doings of MacCarthys and Desmonds in the brave days of old are not likely greatly to interest the present generation. Suffice it to say that the structure, the third on the site, dates from about 1446, and was built by the then powerful Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir, “ the strong.” Of the siege of the castle by Cromwell’s forces under Ireton we have the following picturesque account in Kipling-like verse : —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 34

58. 1688 garrisoning and bombardment of old St. Fin Barre's church

    Cork · city · Cork · 1688

    In 1688 the old church on the cathedral site was garrisoned by the English, and guns from the nearby Irish fort damaged it considerably. A cannon-ball found embedded in the former steeple is displayed on a bracket in the south transept of the present building.

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    In 1688 the old church was garrisoned by the English, and the guns of the Irish fort close by did it considerable damage. In the south transept of the present building can be seen on a bracket a cannon-ball which was found embedded in the former steeple.

    Facing the west end of the cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace, a plain modern building, standing in extensive grounds.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As the road comes through Cork, you are near the site of St. Fin Barre's. In 1688 the old church that stood here was garrisoned by the English. The guns of the Irish fort close by did it considerable damage. A cannon-ball was found embedded in the former steeple, and it can still be seen on a bracket in the south transept of the present building.

59. 1893 Archaeological Society examination of Innisfallen Abbey

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry · 1893

    In 1893 the Archaeological Society of Ireland conducted a thorough examination of Innisfallen Abbey ruins, discovering old tombstones and the altar beneath the east window. The Society restored the altar and re-erected the east window from buried stones.

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    The remains of Innisfallen Abbey, scattered all over the island, show that it was at one time very extensive. It was built in the year 600 by St. Finian Lobhar (“ the Leper ”), and inhabited by Canons Regular of the order of St. Augustine, who busied themselves in the compilation of the celebrated “ Annals of Innisfallen,” which, with those of Ulster Tigernach, form the real history of Ireland after the introduction of Christianity. The original manuscript is in the Bodleian Library, Oxford ; it is on parchment, and contains fifty-seven quarto leaves. Several copies have been made. There is one in Dublin, in the library of Trinity College. In 1893 the Archaeological Society of Ireland made a thorough examination of the ruins of the abbey. They discovered several old tombstones and the altar — which was restored to its proper place — beneath the beautiful east window. The stones of this window were found buried near the spot and the Society had it re-erected.

    Having walked round the island, and visited all the spots worth seeing, not omitting the ruins of the Oratory, of older date than the monastery, we row across the lake to —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 60

60. Cloyne Cathedral and Bishop Berkeley monument

    Cloyne · town · Cork · 1889

    Cloyne Cathedral is now used as a Protestant Church, and its ancient diocese is merged with that of Cork. A monument to Bishop Berkeley, the famous eighteenth-century metaphysician, was placed in the cathedral in 1889, though he was buried at Oxford.

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    Cloyne Cathedral is now used as a Protestant Church, and the diocese, a very ancient one, is merged in that of Cork. A former bishop was Berkeley, the famous eighteenth century metaphysician. He was buried at Oxford, but a monument to his memory was placed in the cathedral in 1889.

    There are two roads from Cloyne to Ballycotton and the coast, the more circuitous being known as the Shangarry road.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 32