A Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Kilcrea Castle built by Cormac of Muskerry

   Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1465

   Kilcrea Castle was built in 1465 by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry, and stands opposite the ruins of Kilcrea Abbey on the Macroom route.

   Read the passage

   Cemetery, and glimpses of other parts of the city, and have a run of nearly seven miles to Ballincoiig (“ the town of the wild boar ”), with its barracks and gunpowder works. The conspicuous square tower is part of the ruin of a castle built by the Barretts in the reign of Edward III. About two miles from Ballincollig, at the hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St. Owen, the patron saint of the parish), there are some noted caves in the limestone rock. Shortly after leaving Killumney station, we have, on the right, the ruins of Kilcrea Abbey, and on the left the Castle, built in 1465, by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry.

   A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore (“ the great castle ”), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century. Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha (“ the stone building of David ”), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney, we reach the terminus of the railway at —

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94

2. The Parti-Coloured Steeple of St. Ann's, Shandon

   near Shandon · locality · Cork

   The steeple of St. Ann's Church in Shandon, Cork, is the most conspicuous in the city due to its two red and two white sides. This unique appearance is reflected in a popular rhyme.

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   This diversity in the matter of bridges is equalled, if not excelled, by the diversity of the buildings. A most noticeable peculiarity of Cork is its absolute want of uniformity, and the striking contrasts in colour of the houses. The stone of which the houses in the northern suburbs is built is of a reddish brown — that 011 the south of a cold gray tint. Some are constructed of red brick, some of brown brick, some are sheathed in slate, some whitewashed, some reddened, some yellowed. The most conspicuous steeple in the place, that of St. Ann’s, Shandon, is actually red two sides and white the others.

   “ Parti-coloured, like the people,

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

   As the companion tells it

   Up ahead, Shandon. Cork is a city of contrast in its buildings. The northern suburbs are built of a reddish brown stone, while the south is a cold gray. Some houses are red brick, some brown brick, some sheathed in slate, some whitewashed, some reddened, some yellowed. The most conspicuous steeple in the place is that of St. Ann's, Shandon. It is actually red on two sides and white on the others. The rhyme calls it "parti-coloured, like the people."

3. Celbridge Abbey and the Vanessa association

   Celbridge · town · Kildare

   Celbridge Abbey was a favourite resort of Dean Swift and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of Vanessa in Swift's poem 'Cadenus and Vanessa.'

   Read the passage

   THE point of departure from Dublin to the South of Ireland is the Kingsbridge terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, at the western end of the city. Leaving Kingsbridge Station, we skirt the famous Phoenix Park, and pass in succession Clondalkin, where may be seen one of the most perfect of the many round towers in Ireland ; Lucan, noted for its mineral spring and its strawberry beds ; and Hazlehatch. The latter affords access to the town of Celbridge, near which is the abbey of the same name, a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa in his poem of “ Cadenus and Vanessa.”

   Our onward journey is through pretty country, At Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 18

4. Devil's Punch Bowl on Mangerton: unfathomable tarn

   Mangerton · townland · Kerry

   The Devil's Punch Bowl is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge on Mangerton Mountain, its water almost as black as ink and cold as ice. No fish are found in it, and it is said to have no bottom, never having been fathomed.

   Read the passage

   and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path- It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top on foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Gulttana, a considerable lake, singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing, we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil’s Punch Bowl. It is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil’s Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom — at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 54

5. Father Prout buried near Shandon tower

   near Shandon · locality · Cork

   Father Prout, the lyricist who immortalised the bells of Shandon, was buried in the family vault near the foot of the church tower. His association with St. Ann's, Shandon, cemented the church's literary fame.

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   the bells of which gave rise to Father Prout’s lyric (see p. 25) and also provided the late Wm. Black with a title for his well-known novel, Shandon Bells. We have already drawn attention to the two colours of its pepper-box-like steeple, but otherwise the building does not call for comment. It dates from 1722. There are quaint inscriptions on the bells, one of which states that “ Abel Rudhall, of Glo’ster, made us all.” The tower clock has four dials and can be seen from nearly all parts of the city. Father Prout was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower.

   Just beyond and above Shandon Church is St. Mary’s Roman Catholic Cathedral,

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

   As the companion tells it

   As you come through Shandon in Cork, the church of St. Ann's stands with its pepper-box steeple in two colours, dating from 1722. Its bells gave rise to Father Prout's lyric, and gave the late Wm. Black the title for his well-known novel, Shandon Bells. The bells carry quaint inscriptions, one of which states, "Abel Rudhall, of Glo'ster, made us all." The tower clock has four dials and can be seen from nearly all parts of the city. Father Prout was buried in the family vault near the foot of the tower.

6. Haulbowline Island naval dockyard

   near Haulbowline Island · population centre · Cork

   Haulbowline Island is a most important naval dockyard and military station, with extensive works still in progress. An order from the authorities is required to visit it and neighbouring islands.

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   At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

   Queenstown.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 28

7. Muckross House and Queen Victoria's 1861 visit

   Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1861

   Muckross House, the Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone and seat of Lord Ardilaun, overlooks the Middle Lake near Muckross Abbey, with grounds of nearly 800 acres. Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained there during their visit to the lakes in 1861.

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   The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a number of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town.

   Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotiations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 44

8. Pass of Keimaneigh, the pass of the deer

   near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

   The Pass of Keimaneigh, meaning 'the pass of the deer,' is a stern defile over a mile and a quarter in length, probably the finest of its kind in Ireland. The mountain appears to have been rent asunder, with only room for a narrow road and a foaming torrent.

   Read the passage

   “ the pass of the deer,” is a stern defile, more than a mile and a quarter in length, and probably the finest thing of its kind in Ireland, though some would be disposed to give the preference to the Pass of Ballaghbeama in Kerry ( see p. 132). The mountain appears to have been rent asunder by some mighty convulsion, and the minute correspondence and similarity of the strata on each side is apparent in many places. There is only just room in the deep cleft for the narrow road and the torrent which foams beside it. Great cracked masses of rock are poised above, and threaten at any moment to fall.

   The summit of the pass is 700 feet above sea-level, and is the highest part of the route. On emerging, we round the unmistakable Sheehy Mountain, and have the river Owvans for company all the way down the long descent to Bantry Bay. The views ahead are, in clear weather, superb. About midway we pass the Castle of Carrignass (“ Rock of the Waterfall ”), a former seat of the omnipresent O’Sullivans, and in very fair preservation. At the. head of the bay, the road turns leftward to Bantry (see p. 161), four miles, and rightward to Glengariff (p. 153), seven miles.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 95

9. Ross Castle surrender after Williamite wars

   Ross Castle · castle · Kerry · 1689–1691

   After the struggles between James II and William III, a detachment of the successful army subdued the county and restored order. The castle's defenders had previously surrendered when unusual munitions frightened the superstitious garrison.

   Read the passage

   munitions for the siege, so frightened the superstitious defenders that they at once surrendered. After the troubles that followed the struggle between James II and William III, a detachment of the successful army subdued the county and restored order.

   The keep of the castle is nearly perfect ; it consists of a massive square tower, with a spiral stone staircase to the top. Originally, it was enclosed by an embattled curtain wall, having round flanking towers at each side. It is one of the most prominent ornaments to the lake, not less for its associations than for its intrinsic beauty as a ruin. The guide will point out a hundred places connected with the memory of the O’Donoghue, including the identical window where he leaped, charger and all, into the lake.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 59

10. Staigue Fort near Sneem

    Staigue · townland · Kerry

    Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair, a pre-Christian stone fortification surviving in Kerry.

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    Archaeology. — Antiquities abound in Kerry and in Cork, such as cromlechs, standing stones, or gallauns, some of which show writing in the Ogham character. The Bishop of Limerick collected stones with inscriptions in the Ogham character — so long undeciphered — and these may now be seen in the grounds of Parknasilla Hotel, formerly his own residence. Staigue Fort, near Sneem, is an almost unique example of an ancient Cathair. These are all pre-Christian, but early Christian and later architectural remains may be seen at Aghadoe, and elsewhere, and many are the holy places, islands, wells, etc., still the objects of pilgrimages or much-desired burial-places.

    For Index see pp. 183-8.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 98

11. St Colman's Cathedral, Queenstown — florid Gothic on the hillside

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork

    The richly decorated Roman Catholic Cathedral dedicated to St Colman is described as one of the most finely situated in the kingdom. Though still incomplete, around £100,000 had already been spent on it.

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    The only notable building in Queenstown is the richlydecorated Roman Catholic Cathedral — surely one of the most finely situated in the kingdom. It is dedicated to St. Colman, and, though still far from complete, should on no account be omitted from the programme of the sightseer. The style is a florid Gothic, the light and spacious interior being as pleasing to the eye as the exterior. The west front is elaborately carved. Funds are lacking to complete the tower, but we believe something like ^100,000 have already been spent.

    Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 29

12. Turnpike rocks and the cannon echo in the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry

    Near Black Lough in the Gap of Dunloe, curious rocks called the Turnpike narrow the valley so cars cannot pass. A man fires a small cannon for sixpence a shot, producing a remarkable echo that rebounds between the Purple Mountain and the Macgillycuddy's Reeks.

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    Close to Black Lough, where the valley narrows so as to leave scarcely room for the road and the stream, we come to some curious rocks, called the Turnpike. As cars cannot proceed farther, it is usual to have ponies waiting here. Sometimes a man will come forward, and, for sixpence a shot, or cheaper “ if a quantity are taken,” fire a small cannon. The effect is wonderful. A thousand repetitions spring from the mountain, caverns and hollows ; a perfect torrent of thunder rushes from the peaks and ravines and is hurled back by the precipices of the Purple Mountain. Again the assault of sound is made on the Reeks, and repulsed from the Purple Rocks ; and this conflict of sound goes on between rock and rock, booming like a great piece of ordnance, until,

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    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 64

13. Blarney Castle and its famous stone

    near Blarney · townland · Cork

    Blarney Castle, with its still more famous stone, lies about a mile and a half west of Blarney station, situated in an extensive hollow amid the 'Groves of Blarney.' The castle is reached by rail on the line from Mallow to Cork.

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    If the tourist intends, instead of proceeding direct to Killarney, to travel via the “ Prince of Wales,” or via the Macroom Route, he continues along the main line to Cork. The country is of a pretty, pastoral character, with an imposing background of mountains, but calls for no remark until, after passing the stations at Mourne Abbey and Rathduff, Blarney is reached. The famous Castle, with its still more famous stone, lies about a mile and a half to the west, in an extensive hollow, amid the “ Groves of Blarney.” Another three or four miles and we plunge into a long tunnel, emerging in the north-eastern part of Cork (ref. room at station).

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    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 21

14. St. Ann's Hill Hydropathic Establishment founded 1843

    near Blarney · townland · Cork · 1843

    St. Ann's Hill Hydropathic Establishment was founded in 1843 by Dr. Barter and is considered the precursor of many similar hydropathic establishments. Its elevated but sheltered position on sandy soil and the mild climate made it a favourite health resort.

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    Following the Blarney branch line we pass the wayside station at Tower Bridge, and draw up at St. Ann's, near to which is the well-known St. Ann’s Hill Hydropathic Establishment, founded in 1843 by the late Dr. Barter, and entitled to be considered the precursor of the many establishments of the kind now in existence. It is picturesquely situated on a sandy soil, and, though elevated, is sheltered by wooded hills. These advantages, combined with the mildness and salubrity of the climate, have made St. Ann’s a favourite health resort.

    From St. Ann’s station a branch line, chiefly used for agricultural purposes, runs north-westward to Donoughmore, a market town some eight miles distant.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 33

15. Ballycotton: island lighthouse and harbour

    Ballycotton · town · Cork

    Ballycotton lies off the beaten tourist track but is increasingly known to Cork people building villas. It features wild cliffs, an excellent harbour with massive piers, and a lighthouse on a tiny island separated from the town by a narrow channel.

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    Ballycotton lies right out of the beaten track of the tourist, and is not known as it deserves to be. Cork people have discovered it, however, and make good use of their knowledge, judging by the villas that are springing up. It is a pleasant, unsophisticated spot, where a family may rusticate with great content and ease. The cliffs to the west are wild and bold, and the sea has scooped out little bays here and there for the very purpose of providing conveniences for bathers. At low tide long stretches of seaweed-covered rock are exposed. Persons who take the cliff paths may be advised not to go too near the edge. There is an excellent harbour, with massive piers running round it, though it seems all too large and expensive for the comparatively few fishing vessels and yachts that shelter here. The Lighthouse stands on a tiny island, separated from the town by a narrow channel. Lighthouses lend themselves to picture-making, and we have rarely seen one better adapted to the purpose than this, though the amateur daubs which adorn the hotels hardly do it justice. To the east can be seen the cliffs that mark the entrance to Youghal Harbour.

    III.— TO BLARNEY CASTLE.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 32

16. Camden's 1600 description of walled Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1600

    In 1600, Camden described Cork as an oval-shaped walled city, environed and intersected by the river, passable only by bridges. He noted it was a trading town of great resort but so beset by rebellious neighbours that it required constant watch as if continually besieged.

    Read the passage

    In 1600, Camden describes the city as “of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, which is passable only by bridges, and consists of one straight street, continued by a bridge ; it is, however, a little trading town of great resort, but so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.”

    At the outbreak of the war between Charles I and the Parliament, Cork declared for the royal cause ; but on the approach of Cromwell in 1649, the citizens, with the atrocities of Drogheda fresh in their memories, surrendered at discretion.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Cork now. In 1600, Camden described the city as of an oval figure, surrounded by walls, environed and intersected by the river, passable only by bridges. It consisted of one straight street, continued by a bridge. Yet it was a little trading town of great resort, so beset by rebellious neighbours as to require a constant watch, as if continually besieged.

17. Charles James Fox swims the Devil's Punch Bowl, 1772

    Mangerton · townland · Kerry · 1772

    Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the Devil's Punch Bowl tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772. The tarn, high on Mangerton Mountain, is famously said to have no bottom.

    Read the passage

    and a half reaches a stream and gives place to a mere path- It is usual and much safer to leave the ponies here and to ascend to the top on foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of Lough Gulttana, a considerable lake, singularly lovely, with three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more interesting, the views increasing in grandeur with every foot of elevation. After some tough climbing, we arrive at the curious lake which goes by the name of the Devil’s Punch Bowl. It is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps almost as black as ink. The water is cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it were really frozen over. No fish are found in it, though they are plentiful in the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and rebounds from rock to rock. The Devil’s Punch Bowl is said to have no bottom — at least, the bottom has never been fathomed. Charles James Fox had the temerity to swim right round the tarn when on a visit to the Earl of Kenmare in 1772.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 54

18. Colleen Bawn Caves on the Middle Lake

    near Muckross Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Colleen Bawn Caves on the Middle (Muckross/Tore) Lake interest those familiar with Gerald Griffin's story The Colleen Bawn, upon which Boucicault's famous play was based. The Middle Lake also has echoes, creeks, and caves along its shores.

    Read the passage

    also called Tore Lake and Muckross Lake. It also has its wonderful echoes ; and there are creeks and caves along its shores which the tourist will view with much interest. The level of the water is 5 feet below that of the Upper Lake. There are but four islands in it, against thirty in the Lower Lake, and six in the Upper Lake. The curious and picturesque Colleen Bawn Caves will interest those familiar with Gerald Griffin’s story, The Colleen Bawn, upon which Boucicault’s famous play was based. Perhaps the visitor would do best to order his boat to coast the southern shore, where the rocks and headlands are wildest and highest, and the lake deepest.

    Rowing up the lovely strait which separates Brickeen Island from the Muckross demesne, and then entering Glena Bay, we cross the Lower Lake, and land at the quay near Ross Castle, where conveyances wait to take us to our hotel.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 66

19. College in Nelson Street, Youghal, and Congreve residence

    Youghal · town · Cork

    The college founded by the eighth Earl of Desmond still stands in Nelson Street, close to St. Mary's Church. It was for a time the residence of William Congreve the dramatist and his father, the latter being the Earl of Cork's agent.

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    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “ great ” Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : “ All my wealth was £2 7 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries/ with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 37

20. Fitzgerald Park on site of Cork International Exhibition

    near Fitzgerald Park · street · Cork · 1902–1903

    The ground north of the Mardyke formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition of 1902-3. It was afterwards converted into a public park named Fitzgerald Park, honouring Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor during the Exhibition.

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    But the encroachments of the builder have robbed the Mardyke of much of its charm, and it cannot for a moment compare with the Marina, at the other end of the city ( see p. 42). The ground to the north formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition, 1902-3, and has now been converted into a public park, known as Fitzgerald Park, in honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition.

    On the other side of the North River, and reached by ferry or by the Wellington Bridge, near the end of the Mardyke, is the district of —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Fitzgerald Park, the ground to the north of the Mardyke formed the site of the Cork International Exhibition of 1902 to 1903. Afterward it was converted into a public park, known as Fitzgerald Park, in honour of Sir Edward Fitzgerald, Bart., who was Lord Mayor at the time of the Exhibition. The book notes that the encroachments of the builder have robbed the Mardyke of much of its charm, and that it cannot for a moment compare with the Marina, at the other end of the city.

21. French invasion fleet enters Bantry Bay, 1689

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork · 1689

    In 1689, a French fleet bringing the exiled King James II to Ireland entered Bantry Bay. The English fleet under Admiral Herbert pursued them, but the French sailed back to France after a stay of only five days. The Government immediately erected fortifications at Bantry to prevent future surprise.

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    The bay is historically interesting as having been the scene of two attempted invasions by the French. In 1689, their fleet, which brought to Ireland the ex-king of Great Britain, James II, entered. In a very short time, the English fleet, under Admiral Herbert, bore down in pursuit ; but, being

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    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 87

22. Kenmare founded as Nedeen by Sir William Petty

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry · 1670

    Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen. Sir William Petty, ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, obtained a land grant and planted a colony of Englishmen there in 1670, establishing a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale.

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    Kenmare is a fairly prosperous market town, at the head of the beautiful estuary to which it gives its name ; or, rather, from which it receives its name, for, according to Dr. Joyce, Kenmare signifies “ head of the sea.” The town is chiefly interesting to tourists from its position as a kind of coaching junction, being the half-way place between Glengariff and Killarney, and the terminus of the Kerry coast tour. It also possesses a lively interest from the fact that it is the halting-place for luncheon, for which, after a long mountain drive, most passengers are more than ready. Whether the Southern or the less pretentious Lansdowne be patronised, good value is given. Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen, and owes its existence to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty, having obtained a grant of land, planted a colony of Englishmen here in 1670. They established' a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale ; but were harrassed by the Irish, and surrendering, after some resistance, were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ireland by William III, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed ; but the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Kenmare, at the head of the beautiful estuary to which it gives its name. According to Dr. Joyce, the name Kenmare signifies “head of the sea.” Kenmare was originally known as Nedeen, and it owes its existence to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the Marquis of Lansdowne, the principal owner of the land hereabouts. Petty obtained a grant of land and in 1670 planted a colony of Englishmen here. They established a fishery and iron works on an extensive scale. But they were harassed by the Irish, and after some resistance they surrendered and were allowed to embark for Bristol, scantily supplied with provisions. On the conquest of Ireland by William III, the colony was re-established and the fishery resumed. But the forests were soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of fuel.

23. Lough Mahon, the land-locked expanse of the Lee

    near Lough Mahon · channel sound · Cork

    Lough Mahon is the wide expanse of the Lee east of Cork, appearing as a land-locked lake bordered by hills, woods, pastures, and dotted with islands. The railway skirts the water affording entrancing views, especially at high tide.

    Read the passage

    We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Passage West,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 27

24. Raleigh's cherry tree at Affane House

    Affane · townland · Waterford

    In the grounds attached to Affane House, a short distance up the Finish river, Raleigh is said to have planted the first cherry tree seen in Ireland, brought from the Canary Isles. The fine species of cherry introduced by Raleigh still flourishes at Cappoquin.

    Read the passage

    Tourin Castle lies on the left bank, whilst on the right are the massive mountains of Knockmealdown, and we can distinguish in the distance the spire of the abbey on Mount Melleray. From Camphire to Cappoquin is considered by many the finest part of the river. The many islets add greatly to the picturesqueness of the waterway. In the grounds attached to Affane House, a short distance up the Finish (right), Raleigh is said to have planted the first cherry tree seen in Ireland, being one that he brought from the Canary Isles.

    Cappoquin.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 39

25. Raleigh's ford at Midleton

    Midleton · town · Cork

    Close to the distillery at Midleton is the ford which Sir Walter Raleigh defended single-handed against Fitzgerald and his 'wild Irish rebels' until his own troops arrived. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth.

    Read the passage

    There is not much of interest in the journey from Cork to Youghal, except near the commencement, when after passing the riverside suburbs of Tivoli and Dunkettle, we skirt the northern shore of Lough Mahon (see p. 46), and have some pretty peeps down the harbour. At Queenstown Junction the main line trains proceed in a southerly direction to Queenstown, but we continue due eastward. Midleton (population 2,795), about half-way to Youghal, is a military centre, but derives its chief importance from its extensive whisky distillery and flour mills. Curran, the famous orator and statesman, was educated at the College here. Close to the distillery is the ford which Raleigh defended singlehanded against Fitzgerald and his “ wild Irish rebels ” till his own troops came up. Scott alludes to the incident in Kenilworth, ch. xv. Midleton confers the title of viscount in the peerage of Ireland upon the Brodrick family.

    62

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 36

26. Waterville village and its cable stations

    Waterville · townland · Kerry · 1894

    Waterville stands on a narrow isthmus between Ballinskelligs Bay and Lough Currane, and is largely resorted to by anglers. The Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables here, the latest completed in 1894, connecting to France and England. A handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler stands near the Bay View Hotel.

    Read the passage

    The village, which bids fair shortly to become a town, is largely resorted to by anglers, who find good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes in the neighbourhood. Fishing is, for the most part, free ; salmon and brown and white trout are plentiful. The first object to arrest attention on entering the place (close to the Bay View Hotel) is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. Here is the junction with another road which comes directly through the mountains from Killarney, thirty-seven miles distant to the north-east, passing attractive Glencar on the way ( see p. 130). The village is a tempting place of sojourn, commanding magnificent views of the Atlantic on the one hand, and of the mountains on the other ; and it is within three minutes’ walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, the sands being level for a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. Here, also, the Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables— the latest completed in 1894 ; and their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be inspected on application. Two other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. Moreover, at Ballinskelligs, across the bay, directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks of the little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries into the bay the surplus water of —

    Lough Currane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Waterville, a village that bids fair shortly to become a town. It sits on a narrow isthmus between Ballinskelligs Bay and Lough Currane, and anglers resort to it in numbers, finding good sport in the lough and in the many streams and lakes nearby. Fishing is for the most part free, with salmon and brown and white trout plentiful. The first object to arrest your attention on entering the place, close to the Bay View Hotel, is a handsome stone fountain erected to the memory of James Butler. The village commands magnificent views of the Atlantic on one hand and the mountains on the other, and is within three minutes' walk of Lough Currane. There is excellent sea bathing, level sands running out a considerable distance from the shore, and one of the prettiest golf courses in Ireland. The salmon hatchery is also worth a visit. Here, too, the Commercial Cable Company land two of their cables, the latest completed in 1894. Their station, with the houses of the officials, is quite a feature of the village. The instrument rooms and so forth may be inspected on application. Two other cables connect France, near Havre, and England, near Weston-super-Mare, with this point. At Ballinskelligs, across the bay directly opposite Waterville, the station of the United States Cable Company may be seen. The village is clustered on the banks of a little river, a few hundred yards in length, which carries into the bay the surplus water of Lough Currane.

27. Carrignamuck Castle near Dripsey, companion to Blarney

    Dripsey · town · Cork

    Near Dripsey stand the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, described as a companion fortress to Blarney Castle and said to have been built by the same lord. Dripsey is noted as a place of much picturesqueness.

    Read the passage

    The principal stations on the Coachford line are at Cloghroe , near to which is Ardrum Castle ; Dripsey, a place of much picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and said to have been built by the same lord ; and Coachford, a prettily situated village much favoured by anglers.

    Following the Blarney branch line we pass the wayside station at Tower Bridge, and draw up at St. Ann's, near to which is the well-known St. Ann’s Hill Hydropathic Establishment, founded in 1843 by the late Dr. Barter, and entitled to be considered the precursor of the many establishments of the kind now in existence. It is picturesquely situated on a sandy soil, and, though elevated, is sheltered by wooded hills. These advantages, combined with the mildness and salubrity of the climate, have made St. Ann’s a favourite health resort.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 33

28. Churchill's five-day siege of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1690

    On the deposition of James II, Cork suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls at the head of an Orange army and took the city after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale was captured a few days later.

    Read the passage

    When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song : —

    z\

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Cork, there's a story from 1690. When Charles II returned to power, Cork proclaimed him eleven days before London did. But loyalty to the Stuarts cost the city dear. On the deposition of James II, Churchill appeared before its walls at the head of an Orange army. He took the city after a five days' siege, during which Cork suffered severely. Kinsale fell a few days later, and that gave rise to a famous Jacobite song.

29. Father Mathew Memorial Chapel on Charlotte Quay

    Cork · city · Cork

    The Church of the Holy Trinity, a limestone building on Charlotte Quay with a 200-foot spire and curious open front, overlooks the South Channel. It contains a fine stained-glass window in memory of O'Connell, the 'Liberator.'

    Read the passage

    or Church of the Holy Trinity. It is a beautiful limestone building, and when seen from across the water immediately arrests the eye by its curious open front and pinnacled tower. The spire is 200 feet high. The church contains a fine stainedglass window in memory of O’Connell, the “ Liberator.”

    Crossing the South Channel by Parliament Bridge, with its single arch, we turn westward by Sullivan’s Quay and French’s Quay to Bishop Street, noticing high up on the left the dingy wall of Elizabeth Fort. We now reach what is by far the most noteworthy and imposing building in Cork,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up in Cork, on Charlotte Quay, is the Church of the Holy Trinity, also known as Father Mathew Memorial Chapel. It's a limestone building, and seen from across the water it catches the eye with its curious open front and pinnacled tower. The spire is 200 feet high. Inside, there's a fine stained glass window in memory of O'Connell, the "Liberator."

30. Hop Island and its dancing-family name origin

    near Hop Island · townland · Cork

    Hop Island, near Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Read the passage

    We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

    Passage West,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 27

31. Hore Abbey near the Rock of Cashel

    Hore Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Tipperary · 1278

    The Grey, or Hore, Abbey was founded in 1278 by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel. It stands as a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from, but in full view of, the Rock of Cashel.

    Read the passage

    of the Rock are among the finest in the country. The edifice was benevolently burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare, “ because he thought the archbishop was within ! ” This . candid explanation, curiously enough, gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland. Besides the Cathedral, there are on the rock Cormac’s Chapel, built in 1127, and the palace of the kings of Munster, with its famous round tower, 90 feet high. The Grey, or Hore, Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel in 1278, is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from — but in full view of — the Rock.

    Passing Dundrum, we reach Limerick Junction (ref. room), where the Waterford, Limerick and Western Railway crosses the Great Southern and Western line. Leaving the station, we have a good view leftward of the Galtee Mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending east and west in front of us.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 20

32. Queen's College Cork on site of St. Fin Barre's monastery

    Cork · city · Cork · 1849

    Queen's College, built in Tudor style of greyish limestone, stands on the site of a monastery founded by St. Fin Barre, Cork's patron saint. The monastery was first called Antro Sancti Fion Barrie and later known as Gill Abbey, after one of its celebrated abbots, Gilla Aeda O'Mugin.

    Read the passage

    occupying the summit of a rock about 40 feet above the level of the South River, which laves its base. It stands on the site of the monastery founded by the patron saint of Cork, first of all called Antro Sancti Fion Barrie (“ the cave of St. Fin Barre ”), and afterwards known as Gill Abbey, in memory of Gilla Aeda O’Mugin, one of its most celebrated abbots. The College, in the Tudor style, is constructed of a greyish limestone, and consists of a quadrangle, round which are grouped an examination hall, lecture rooms, library, museum, cloisters, and residences for the president and vice-president. The grounds contain a number of tropical plant houses and an observatory. The College was established in 1849 as part of a general scheme to meet the educational wants of Ireland, but as the “ godless ” colleges have not found favour with the Roman Catholic authorities, Queen’s College has never attracted a great number of

    38 CORK

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you are near Queen's College, built in 1849 as part of a general scheme to meet the educational wants of Ireland. The college stands on the site of a monastery founded by the patron saint of Cork, St. Fin Barre. The monastery was first called Antro Sancti Fion Barrie, meaning the cave of St. Fin Barre, and afterwards became known as Gill Abbey, in memory of Gilla Aeda O'Mugin, one of its most celebrated abbots. The college itself is constructed in the Tudor style of a greyish limestone, with a quadrangle grouped round an examination hall, lecture rooms, library, museum, cloisters, and residences for the president and vice-president. The grounds contain tropical plant houses and an observatory. But the so-called godless colleges did not find favour with the Roman Catholic authorities, and Queen's College never attracted a great number of students.

33. Ross Island's artificial formation and castle ruins

    Ross Island · townland · Kerry

    Ross Island, part of the Kenmare estate, is believed to be of artificial formation, with a moat cut through a morass at a remote date to protect the castle whose ruins still stand. The island comprises about 150 acres with a deeply indented shoreline.

    Read the passage

    which is part of the Kenmare estate, and is laid out with walks and carriage-drives in the same tasteful and picturesque manner as the rest of the demesne. The island is beyond doubt of artificial formation, a moat having been cut through a morass in the isthmus which connected it with the land at a remote date — in all probability, as a protection to the castle the ruins of which form a prominent feature of the island. Its area is about 150 statute acres, and it is about a mile in length. The shore is worn into every variety of creek, promontory and bay, with deeply indented fantastic and curious rocks.

    Leaving Killarney by carriage, a short drive along the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 58

34. Royal visit of 1897 and proposed purchase of Muckross House

    Muckross · townland · Kerry · 1897

    The Prince and Princess of Wales visited Killarney in 1897 and were delighted with the lakes. It was suggested Killarney would form an ideal royal residence, and negotiations were believed to have been entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Read the passage

    Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotiations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Hotels.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 44

35. Skibbereen town and its famine history

    Skibbereen · town · Cork

    Skibbereen is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants standing where the Ilen River widens to form a creek. The town is described as unattractive and has suffered severely during successive famines.

    Read the passage

    Skibbereen is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, standing at the spot where the Hen widens out to form the creek. The town is unattractive, and has suffered severely during successive famines. A walk or drive that should not be missed is that to Lough Hyne (about 4 miles), a kind of marine cul de sac, with a very narrow inlet from the sea. The country is wild and desolate in the extreme, but the immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In the centre is an islet, on which are the ruins of an old castle of the O’Donnells ; and on the shore is one of those graveyards devoted exclusively to the burial of children to be found nowhere but in Ireland.

    Toe Head, to the eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, are between us and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets, around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory which shuts in Castle Haven, at the head of which is Castletownshend (several Inns), of old known as Sleugleig, its modern name and that of the bay being derived from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Skibbereen, a town of about 3,000 inhabitants standing where the Ilen River widens to form a creek. The town is described as unattractive, and it has suffered severely during successive famines. A walk or drive that should not be missed is to Lough Hyne, about 4 miles from here, a kind of marine cul de sac with a very narrow inlet from the sea. The country is wild and desolate in the extreme, but the immediate surroundings of the lough are picturesque. In the centre is an islet with the ruins of an old castle of the O'Donnells. On the shore is one of those graveyards devoted exclusively to the burial of children, to be found nowhere but in Ireland. Toe Head, eastward of the lough, commands a singularly beautiful scene. The Stags, three rocks of unusual height, stand between us and the land, and the ocean is flecked with small islets around which the sea dances and sparkles in the sunlight. The head terminates the western promontory shutting in Castle Haven, at the head of which is Castletownshend, of old known as Sleugleig. Its modern name and that of the bay come from a strong castle belonging to the Townsends, twice besieged in vain by the followers of King James during the struggle which culminated in the battle of the Boyne. In 1602, the harbour was the scene of a naval engagement between the Spaniards, under Don Pedro de Zuibar, and the British fleet, commanded by Sir Richard Levison.

36. The Curragh of Kildare military camp and races

    near The Curragh · locality · Kildare · 1853

    The Curragh of Kildare is a vast Crown common where a permanent military camp of instruction was formed in 1853. It also serves as Ireland's foremost racecourse, hosting races four times a year.

    Read the passage

    Our onward journey is through pretty country, At Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen.

    The town of Kildare is half concealed from the railway by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower, 132 feet high. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at a cost of ;£ 12,000.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through the Curragh, you are crossing a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and four times a year it becomes the scene of races which hold the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen. The railway station for the Curragh is at Newbridge, and the Hill of Allen rises nearby, three hundred feet above the Bog of Allen. The town of Kildare itself sits half hidden behind a ridge, crowned by a round tower one hundred and thirty-two feet high. The ancient cathedral there has recently been restored at a cost of twelve thousand pounds. The Curragh of Kildare is a vast Crown common where a permanent military camp of instruction was formed in 1853. It also serves as Ireland's foremost racecourse, hosting races four times a year.

37. Bantry Woollen Mills

    Bantry · town · Cork

    The Bantry Woollen Mills, located near Vickery's Hotel, represent a once-leading Irish industry showing renewed promise. Wool from hardy native mountain sheep of the district can be seen in every stage of manufacture.

    Read the passage

    The visitor should, if time allows, call at the Bantry Woollen Mills. Here he will find an interesting example of an industry which was once a leading one in Ireland, and which, from the strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same position again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability which are gaining such an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill, to which access can readily be had, is only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel ; and the wool, which is grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the beautiful view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks — Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

    Bantry House, the seat of Mr. Leigh- White, nephew of the late Earl of Bantry (the title is now extinct), should on no account be missed. It is the show-place of the town. Follow the main street seaward from the hotels, skirting the water’s edge. At the end of the long line of wharves is a solid stone gatehouse, by which admission is gained. Visitors are allowed

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry, in Cork, the woollen mills sit only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel. They are an interesting example of an industry that was once a leading one in Ireland. From the strides it has lately made, it promises to occupy that same position again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability gaining such an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. Access can readily be had to the mill, and the wool, grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks: Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains. Bantry House, the seat of Mr Leigh-White, nephew of the late Earl of Bantry, whose title is now extinct, should on no account be missed. It is the show-place of the town. Follow the main street seaward from the hotels, skirting the water's edge. At the end of the long line of wharves is a solid stone gatehouse, by which admission is gained.

38. Crosshaven, Cork's seaside resort village

    Crosshaven · town · Cork

    Crosshaven is described as a small village with a large hotel, compared to Brighton's relationship with London. The new railway from Monkstown was expected to swell visitor numbers, bringing pleasure-seekers through lovely country past Drake's Pool and Carrigaline Castle.

    Read the passage

    Crosshaven is as yet only a small village with a large hotel. Now that the new railway adds its quota of pleasure-seekers to those brought by the steamers, the small village is likely to become a large one, and the large hotel larger still. The railway from Monkstown to Crosshaven brings one through lovely country, passing Drake’s Pool and Carrigaline Castle. Though itself somewhat sheltered, and denied an ocean view, Crosshaven is within easy distance of Church Bay and Myrtleville Bay on the coast. What Brighton is to London, Crosshaven is to Cork, and during the summer the accommodation of the place is sometimes severely taxed. Combined railway and hotel tickets are issued, and a week-end (Saturday to Monday) can be spent at the Crosshaven Hotel for 18/6, including fare from and to Cork. A modern Church stands close to the village. There are a number of pretty walks in the locality, the deep-set, tree-shadowed lanes, with their numerous twists and turns, reminding one of the famous Jersey lanes.

    On the hill above Crosshaven stands the desolate and forsaken ruin of Templebrady Church, a prominent object both from sea and harbour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 30

39. Dunamase Castle and Strongbow

    Park or Dunamase · townland · Laois

    The ruins of Dunamase Castle, once in the possession of Strongbow, crown the summit of a singularly-shaped rock known as Dun Mall or Dunamase near Maryborough.

    Read the passage

    range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase.

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line ; and Ballybrophy station (vef. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as “ godless,” recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Park or Dunamase stand the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. The castle crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase. The rock itself gives the place its name. Not far off is Maryborough, which stands on a small tributary of the Barrow. Maryborough had its own old Castle, a bastion of which remained, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood. But it is Dunamase that carries the older memory. Strongbow held it, and what stands now is what is left of that holding, up on its rock.

40. Glena Bay and Queen's Cottage

    Glena · townland · Kerry

    Glena Bay, meaning 'the glen of good fortune,' contains a cottage built by Lord Kenmare providing accommodation for visitors. Queen Victoria visited the cottage and recorded the incident in her diary with lively recollection. The surrounding scenery is considered almost equal to that of Innisfallen.

    Read the passage

    The voyage takes us along the foot of Tomies Mountain, which rises precipitously to a height of 2,413 feet. We see many beautiful islands, in whose rifted rocks the ash and the oak have anchored their strong roots, and creeks and promontories where the arbutus displays its brilliant berries and wild roses are plentiful. Passing Stag Island, Burnt Island, Minister’s Back and Barbie’s Garden, we enter the lovely bay of Glena, “ the glen of good fortune,” and seek out the charming Cottage built by Lord Ivenmare. Here we find every accommodation for luncheon. The cottage is another of the “ Queen’s Cottages,” and in Queen Victoria’s diary the in-

    108 QUEEN’S COTTAGE

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 61

41. Muckross Abbey: burial place of O'Sullivans More and O'Donoghue

    Muckross · townland · Kerry

    Muckross Abbey served as the place of sepulture for the O'Sullivans More, once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry, as well as the O'Donoghue. Their graves and those of other leaders lie unnoticed in the rank vegetation carpeting Muckross.

    Read the passage

    This was also the place of sepulture of the O’Sullivans More, once among the proudest chiefs in Kerry, whose graves, and those of many other stalwart leaders, he unnoticed in the rank vegetation that carpets Muckross.

    The Abbey is not without some stately modern monuments ; yet their beauty appears out of place amidst such mouldering desolation. The graves of the peasantry lie in many a grassy heap on the south side, and some of the cut stones have been taken from its walls to mark them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 52

42. North Chapel and its monuments

    Cork · city · Cork · 1808–1890

    The North Chapel was built in 1808 with a massive tower. Inside, a monument by Turnerelli commemorates Dr. Moylan, founder of the cathedral, and a bronze statue of Bishop Delany stands outside, erected in 1890.

    Read the passage

    or the North Chapel. It was built in 1808, and boasts a massive and lofty tower, but architecturally it is not a success. The interior is in striking contrast to the plain exterior, and deserves to be seen, though the tourist may object to the over-elaboration of some of the details, and the almost gaudy appearance of the whole. A monument by Turnerelli, near the altar, commemorates Dr. Moylan, the founder of the cathedral, and in the open space in front of the main entrance is a bronze statue of Bishop Delany, D.D., erected in 1890.

    By following the squalid Old Chapel Lane up the hill, with the Fever Hospital on the left hand, one reaches the Old Youghal Road, which may be described as the “ Northern Heights ” of Cork, affording an excellent view over the city and harbour. The Barracks and camp field are up here, and the tunnel of the Great Southern and Western Railway, leading to Glanmire station, runs below.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the North Chapel stands in the city, built in 1808 with a massive and lofty tower, though the book calls it no architectural success. The plain exterior gives no hint of what waits inside. The interior deserves to be seen, a striking contrast to the outside, though a tourist might object to the over-elaboration of some details and what the guide calls the almost gaudy appearance of the whole. Near the altar, a monument by Turnerelli commemorates Dr. Moylan, the founder of the cathedral. In the open space in front of the main entrance stands a bronze statue of Bishop Delany, erected in 1890. The guide also notes that Old Chapel Lane leads uphill past the Fever Hospital to the Old Youghal Road, described as the Northern Heights of Cork, with an excellent view over the city and harbour, the Barracks and camp field above, and the tunnel of the Great Southern and Western Railway running below toward Glanmire station.

43. Bantry name origin and early ownership

    Bantry · town · Cork · 1

    Bantry is said to derive its name from Ban-tra, meaning 'white strand,' though Dr. Joyce suggests it comes from Beann, son of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century and ancient owner of the district. The construction of the pier and sea-wall has altered much of the original strand.

    Read the passage

    Bantry is said to derive its name from Ban-tra, the “ white strand.” The strand is indisputable, though the construction of the pier and sea-wall has improved a great part of it out of existence, but we do not see where the whiteness comes in. Probably Dr. Joyce is more correct in deriving the name from Beann (Ban), one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century, and ancient owner of this district. Most people simply go through Bantry without making a stay, but one or two days can be profitably spent in the little market town. There is a good bathing-stage, and the bay affords every facility for yachting and boating. The town stands near the head of the spacious bay of the same name.

    The visitor should, if time allows, call at the Bantry Woollen Mills. Here he will find an interesting example of an industry which was once a leading one in Ireland, and which, from the strides it has lately made, promises to occupy the same position again in the near future, owing to the absolute purity and durability which are gaining such an enviable reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The mill, to which access can readily be had, is only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel ; and the wool, which is grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district, can be seen in every stage of manufacture. Bantry is the seat of a considerable sea-borne trade, and a number of small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The chief feature of the town is the beautiful view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks — Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry, the name is said to come from Ban-tra, meaning white strand. The strand is indisputable, though the construction of the pier and sea-wall has improved a great part of it out of existence, but it is hard to see where the whiteness comes in. Dr. Joyce is probably more correct in deriving the name from Beann, or Ban, one of the sons of Conor MacNessa, King of Ulster in the first century, and ancient owner of this district. The town stands near the head of the spacious bay of the same name. Most people go through without making a stay, but there is a good bathing-stage, and the bay affords every facility for yachting and boating. There is a considerable sea-borne trade, and small coasting vessels may generally be seen moored off the town. The woollen mills are only a few yards from Vickery's Hotel. The wool is grown on the hardy native mountain sheep of the district and can be seen in every stage of manufacture. This industry was once a leading one in Ireland, and from the strides it has made, it promises to occupy the same position again, owing to the purity and durability gaining a reputation for Irish friezes, tweeds, and homespuns. The chief feature is the view down and across the spacious bay, with its background of sharply defined peaks: Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf, and the long range of the Caha Mountains.

44. Castle on the steep rock at Carrigrohane

    near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork

    Above Carrigrohane, on a steep rock overlooking the Lee valley, stands a castle. The valley of the Lee presents pretty views as one travels from Cork towards Blarney.

    Read the passage

    Leaving the station, we run first along the roadside, having on our right the Mardyke, and presently the City Waterworks and the many-gabled Lunatic Asylum. On the left we have Queen’s College and the Male Gaol. Between Victoria Cross and Carrigrohane is passed the Model Farm, where training is given in agriculture, dairy-farming, etc. The institution has been very successful. The valley of the Lee presents here and there as we get further from the city some pretty peeps. This is notably the case as Carrigrohane, above which, high on the steep rock, is a Castle. We shortly cross the Lee, and follow its tributary, the Shournagh, a trout stream of some repute. The valley is now wider, and affords a more extensive view. Passing Healy Bridge we reach Junction, from which the main line continues westward to Coachford, gl miles distant.

    The principal stations on the Coachford line are at Cloghroe , near to which is Ardrum Castle ; Dripsey, a place of much picturesqueness, containing the remains of Carrignamuck Castle, a kind of companion fortress to Blarney, and said to have been built by the same lord ; and Coachford, a prettily situated village much favoured by anglers.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 33

45. Charles II proclaimed in Cork before London

    Cork · city · Cork · 1660

    When Charles II was restored to the throne, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before the ceremony was performed in London, demonstrating the city's persistent royalist sympathies.

    Read the passage

    When, in due course, Charles II got his own again, he was proclaimed in Cork eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. On the deposition of James II the city once more suffered for its loyalty to the Stuarts. Churchill appeared before its walls, at the head of an Orange army, and took it after a five days’ siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale, it may be noted, was captured a few days later; and this gave rise to the famous Jacobite song : —

    z\

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, this was a city quick to show its colours. When Charles II was restored to the throne in 1660, he was proclaimed in this city eleven days before that ceremony was performed in London. The city's loyalty to the Stuarts cost it later. On the deposition of James II, Churchill appeared before its walls at the head of an Orange army and took it after a five days' siege, during which the city suffered severely. Kinsale was captured a few days later.

46. Dinish Island: O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl and the name's origin

    near Dinish Island · townland · Kerry

    Dinish Island, properly Dine-iske meaning 'the beginning of the waters,' is richly wooded and contains O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl among arbutus groves. A rustic cottage accommodates visitors, and bridges connect to Brickeen Island, Muckross demesne, the lakelet of Doolah, and old copper mines.

    Read the passage

    to see O’Sullivan’s Punch Bowl. Embowered in arbutus groves, a pretty rustic Cottage has been built for the accommodation of visitors. Here we can take tea, or saunter about and walk over to see Brickeen Island ; and further on, across another bridge, then entering Muckross demesne, visit the lakelet of Doolah and the old copper mines. The name is properly Dine-iske (“ the beginning of the waters ”), but the boatmen know it as Dinish Island. Again we embark, this time on —

    The Middle Lake,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 66

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Dinish Island, properly Dine-iske, meaning "the beginning of the waters," though the boatmen call it Dinish. It is richly wooded, with arbutus groves, and you can see O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl there. A rustic cottage was built for visitors to take tea, and bridges lead over to Brickeen Island and on into Muckross demesne, where you can visit the lakelet of Doolah and the old copper mines.

47. Dunashad Castle ruins commanding Baltimore harbour

    Baltimore · town · Cork

    A rock commanding Baltimore harbour is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle. The Church at Baltimore has a fine tower.

    Read the passage

    There is a considerable coasting trade between Baltimore and Cork and other neighbouring ports. A rock, commanding the harbour, is crowned by the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the Church has a fine tower. The Harbour extends northward almost to Skibbereen. The largest of the islands is Sherkin, situated at the mouth of the bay. It is about three miles long by two broad, and of old contained a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle. Both were destroyed by the irate citizens of Waterford, in order to punish the piratical proclivities of the O’ Driscolls, the owners of this and the surrounding islands and of a slice of the mainland. The ruins of these edifices are interesting, but as they can be well seen from the Beacon, only enthusiastic antiquaries will go to the expense of hiring a boat to reach them.

    The Schull and Skibbereen Light Railway,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 90

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Baltimore, the harbour below is commanded by a rock crowned with the ruins of Dunashad Castle, and the church has a fine tower. There is a considerable coasting trade between here and Cork. Out at the mouth of the bay lies Sherkin, the largest island, about 3 miles long by 2 broad. It once held a Franciscan abbey and a strong castle, both owned by the O'Driscolls, who held this and the surrounding islands and a slice of the mainland. The citizens of Waterford destroyed both buildings to punish the O'Driscolls for their piratical ways. The ruins can be seen well from the Beacon, so only enthusiastic antiquaries would hire a boat to reach them.

48. Dunmanway linen manufacture under Sir Richard Cox

    Dunmanway · town · Cork · 1702–1714

    Dunmanway was formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland, during the reign of Queen Anne.

    Read the passage

    Resuming the railway journey eastward from Bantry to Cork, at Drimoleague Junction, we reach Dunmanway, formerly the seat of an extensive linen manufacture, established by Sir Richard Cox, Lord Chancellor of Ireland in the reign of Queen Anne.

    We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 91

49. Dunmore Head, the most westerly point in Ireland

    Dunmore Head · promontory · Kerry

    Dunmore Head is the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula and holds the distinction of being the most westerly land in Ireland, closer to America than any other European shore.

    Read the passage

    with, on the opposite side, a background of lofty hills, termi nated in the far distance by the Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet). Dunmore Head, the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, is the most westerly land in Ireland — nearer America than any point of the European shores. It is surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which, the Great Blasket, presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. These features of the northern coast of the bay will attract attention successively as we make our way westward ; Brandon is much in evidence as we leave Killorglin and at other points on the journey. To the south are the peaks of Killarney ( k ) 129

    130

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 70

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Dunmore Head, you are looking at the most westerly land in Ireland. It is the bluff extremity of the northern peninsula, nearer America than any point of the European shores. It is surrounded by a number of rocky isles, the largest of which is the Great Blasket, which presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea. Brandon Mountain, 3127 feet, stands in the far distance, and to the south are the peaks of Killarney. These features of the northern coast of the bay attract attention as you make your way westward. Brandon is much in evidence as you leave Killorglin and at other points on the journey.

50. Ogham cave at the Gap of Dunloe

    near Gap of Dunloe · pass · Kerry · 1838

    A circular cave brought to light in 1838 at the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe, constructed of uncemented stones inclining inwards. Ogham inscriptions on the larger roof stones suggested it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture.

    Read the passage

    and turn aside to examine a Cave, brought to light in 1838. Of circular shape, it was constructed of uncemented stones inclining inwards ; and on the larger stones of the roof were Ogham inscriptions, which tended to -show that it was a Druidical temple or place of sepulture.

    Ill

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 63

51. Royal Cork Yacht Club and annual regatta at Queenstown

    Cobh · municipal district · Cork

    The Royal Cork Yacht Club is housed in luxurious quarters near the station at Queenstown. The annual regatta draws crowds from Cork and surrounding villages.

    Read the passage

    The business portion of the town, including the best hotels and shops, faces the quay. The scene here is generally lively, what with man-o’ -war’s men, yachtsmen, merchant seamen, and pleasure-seekers. The Promenade is a narrow asphalted enclosure, with bandstand and seats. The Band Promenades (usually on Thursdays, 7.0 to 10.0) are very popular functions. The Swimming Baths, opened in 1898, are a valuable acquisition to the town. The Royal Cork Yacht Club is housed in luxurious quarters near the station. The annual regatta is a notable event, crowds of people coming in not only from Cork but from the villages for miles around.

    51

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 29

52. Spenser the poet possibly married at St. Fin Barre's site, 1594

    Cork · city · Cork · 1594

    It is thought probable that the poet Edmund Spenser was married on June 11, 1594, in the church formerly standing on the cathedral site. His bride was a Cork lady from the county. The guide quotes Spenser's verses about a fair creature seen in town.

    Read the passage

    It is thought probable that Spenser, the poet, was married (June 11, 1594) in the church which formerly stood on the site. His bride was a Cork lady, but of the county, not the city. He provokingly asks—

    CORK

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As Cork comes up, there is a small claim on this city. It is thought probable that the poet Edmund Spenser was married on June 11, 1594, in the church that formerly stood on the site of St. Fin Barre's. His bride was a Cork lady, but of the county, not the city.

53. St. Fin Barre's Cathedral on saint's foundation site

    Cork · city · Cork · 1870

    The Protestant cathedral of the diocese occupies the site of the church founded by St. Fin Barre, to whom Cork owes its foundation. Designed by William Burgess in French Early Pointed style, it was consecrated by Bishop Gregg in 1870 and completed largely at the expense of Mr. Wise and Mr. Crawford.

    Read the passage

    the Protestant cathedral of the diocese. It occupies the site of the church erected by the saint to whom Cork is said to owe its foundation, and is the third building which has stood on the spot.

    The design has been truly described as “ utterly un-English in character.” The west front in particular suggests Bayeaux or Rheims. The late William Burgess, A. R. A., was the archi-

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As Cork opens up around you, the Protestant cathedral of the diocese stands on the site of the church founded by St. Fin Barre, the saint to whom the city owes its foundation. It is the third building on this ground. William Burgess designed it, and its style has been described as "utterly un-English in character." The west front suggests Bayeaux or Rheims. Bishop Gregg consecrated it in 1870.

54. Templemore and the Knights Templars

    Templemore · town · Tipperary

    Templemore was founded by the Knights Templars, who left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey.

    Read the passage

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line ; and Ballybrophy station (vef. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as “ godless,” recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

    From the next station, Goold’s Cross, a new light railway, with steam motor coaches, runs to —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 19

55. Beehive oratory on Church Island, Lough Currane

    Church Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 500–600

    Lough Currane, about eight miles in circumference and second only in size in Kerry to the Lower Lake at Killarney, has numerous islets. On the largest, Church Island, stand the ruins of a beehive oratory built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the sixth century.

    Read the passage

    about eight miles in circumference, and second only in point of size in Kerry to the Lower Lake at Killarney. Its surface is broken by numerous islets, on the largest of which, Church Island, are the ruins of a beehive oratory, built by St. Finian Cam, a holy man of the sixth century. The lake is fed by the river Cummaragh, which conveys into it the overflow of Loughs Derriana and Cloonaghlin and of other mountain

    1 4o

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 75

56. Castlemore, MacSwiney castle ruins

    Castlemore · townland · Cork · 1400–1499

    The ruins of Castlemore, meaning 'the great castle,' were built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century, about a mile beyond Kilcrea.

    Read the passage

    A mile further are the ruins of Castlemore (“ the great castle ”), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century. Close to Crookstown station is the Castle of Clogh-dha (“ the stone building of David ”), restored and used as a fishing station by the Earl of Bandon. Crossing the Lee near the station at Dooniskey, and also the rivers Sullane and Laney, we reach the terminus of the railway at —

    Macroom,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94

57. Caves beneath Doulus Head

    near Doulus Head · promontory · Kerry

    The interior of one of the caves beneath Doulus Head, a promontory north-west of Cahirciveen, is very lofty and bears some resemblance to the interior of a cathedral. The headland is separated from the town by the mouth of the river.

    Read the passage

    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Do.ulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O’Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 72

58. Coal Quay, Cork's colourful market district

    Coal Quay · street · Cork

    The Coal Quay, situated between St. Patrick's and Northgate Bridges in Cork, is described as a place likely to interest strangers though shunned by more respectable citizens. Its name is a misnomer, as coal is not actually sold there.

    Read the passage

    The Coal Quay, between St. Patrick’s and Northgate Bridges, is a part of the city likely to interest and amuse strangers, though the more respectable citizens shun it. The name is a misnomer, as the place is some distance from the literal coal quay, and coal is not sold within its precincts ; but contrariety is reasonable here, for all know “ Paddy from

    o

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Along here is the Coal Quay, between St. Patrick's and Northgate Bridges. It's the kind of place that interests and amuses strangers, though the more respectable citizens of Cork shun it. The name is a misnomer. Coal is not sold within its precincts, and the place is some distance from the literal coal quay. But as the book puts it, contrariety is reasonable here.

59. Cork city described as a tourist centre

    Cork · city · Cork

    Cork city contains noble buildings and is full of interest, though slums and poverty deter many tourists. Its surroundings include the harbour's loughs and creeks, the Blackwater, and the coast from Youghal to Mizen Head, with Blarney, Macroom, Inchigeela lakes, and the Pass of Keimaneigh inland.

    Read the passage

    THE possibilities of Cork as a tourist centre seem hardly yet to be realised. The city contains some noble buildings, and to the student of race and manners is full of interest. But to tourists generally the slums immediately off the main streets and the general appearance of poverty are apt to act as deterrents. A stay of a day or two is by most people considered sufficient. An injustice is thus done to some of the most beautiful scenery in the south of Ireland. The surroundings of Cork are beyond all question lovely, though there may be more than one opinion as to the city itself. Within easy reach are the loughs and creeks and pretty islands of the Harbour ; the lower reaches of the Rhinelike Blackwater ; and all the puzzling, indented coast-line from Youghal to Mizen Head. Inland there are Blarney and Macroom, the pretty lakes of Inchigeela, and the Khyberlike Pass of Keimaneigh, to say nothing of numberless beauty spots and view points known to few but natives, and rarely visited even by them. We are not exaggerating in saying .that a week or fortnight can very well be spent in Cork, with a trip to a fresh place of interest every day. The hotel accommodation is good, though the economically-minded tourist is likely to deplore the absence of reliable second-rate establishments. In dry weather the city is somewhat dusty, in wet weather it is undeniably muddy, but the streets are on the whole well kept and clean, and the cheap cars and convenient service of trams make locomotion an easy matter. The streets are lighted by electricity.

    Before proceeding to a detailed description of the city, it may be well to insert a few items of

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    Cork's possibilities as a tourist centre seem hardly yet to be realised. The city contains some noble buildings, and to the student of race and manners is full of interest. But the slums immediately off the main streets and the general appearance of poverty are apt to deter tourists. Most people consider a day or two sufficient, and so an injustice is done to some of the most beautiful scenery in the south of Ireland. The surroundings of Cork are beyond all question lovely, whatever you may think of the city itself. Within easy reach are the loughs and creeks and pretty islands of the harbour, the lower reaches of the Rhine-like Blackwater, and all the puzzling, indented coastline from Youghal to Mizen Head. Inland there are Blarney and Macroom, the pretty lakes of Inchigeela, and the Khyber-like Pass of Keimaneigh, to say nothing of numberless beauty spots and viewpoints known to few but natives, and rarely visited even by them. A week or fortnight can very well be spent in Cork, with a trip to a fresh place of interest every day. The hotel accommodation is good, though the economically minded tourist may deplore the absence of reliable second-rate establishments. In dry weather the city is somewhat dusty, in wet weather undeniably muddy, but the streets are on the whole well kept and clean, and the cheap cars and convenient service of trams make getting about easy. The streets are lighted by electricity.

60. Cromwell enters Youghal by the Water Gate, 1649

    Youghal · town · Cork · 1649

    Cromwell entered Youghal in 1649 by the Water Gate and made the town his headquarters for a time. This event is tied to the town's fortifications and its role in the Cromwellian campaign.

    Read the passage

    The town received its first charter from King John, and is said to derive its name from the Irish word for yew-wood, the hills having been formerly covered with yews. It was once strongly fortified, and a large part of its walls still stand on the western and northern sides. Cromwell entered it in 1649, by the Water Gate, and for a time made the town his headquarters. On the site of the ancient South Gate now stands a structure called the Clock Gate. In Main Street is an ancient tower known as Tynte’s Castle. (It is on the right-hand side as one comes from the Clock Tower.) A few yards from this, a street on the left leads to St. Mary’s Church, occupying the site of a church which existed before the Norman invasion, was rebuilt by the eighth Earl of Desmond, who founded a college in connection with it in 1464, and was restored early in the seventeenth century by the “ great ” Earl of Cork.* (The college just mentioned is still standing in Nelson Street, close to the church. It was, for a time, the residence of William Congreve, the dramatist, and his father, the latter being the earl’s agent.) The massive tower of the church has a height of 50 feet, and is known as Cromwell’s

    * The first Earl of Cork, who arrived in Ireland in 1588, says in his autobiography : “ All my wealth was £2 7 3s. in money, a diamond ring, a bracelet of gold, a taffety doublet, a pair of black velvet breeches, laced and cut upon taffety, two cloaks, competent linen and necessaries/ with my rapier and dagger.” Before his death his income was at the rate of £50 a day, exclusive of the value of his houses and parks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 37