A Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. MacCarthy More's Island and the named islands of the Upper Lake

   near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

   MacCarthy More's Island on the Upper Lake is luxuriant with evergreens including Lebanon cedars. Other named islands include Ronayne's Island, Eagle Island (formerly frequented by eagles), Oak and Juniper Islands, and Arbutus Island, each named for its distinctive vegetation or wildlife.

   Read the passage

   MacCarthy More’s Island is one of the first islands passed. It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne’s Island, where may be had some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman’s Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed — the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters. We soon reach —

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   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 65

2. Mathew Tower on Little Island

   near Little Island · townland · Cork

   On a small eminence on Little Island stands the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance (Father Theobald Mathew). The land north of Blackrock Castle is identified as Little Island rather than the mainland.

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   We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

   Passage West,

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 27

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Little Island, the land that sits in the Lee opposite Blackrock Castle. On a small eminence on the island stands the Mathew Tower, built as a tribute to the memory of Father Theobald Mathew, known as the Apostle of Temperance. The wide expanse of the Lee here is called Lough Mahon, and it has the look of a land-locked lake, bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures. The island is dotted among others in this stretch of water.

3. O'Donoghue's Horse rock blown down in storm

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   O'Donoghue's Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks on the Lower Lake, was blown down during a storm and now lies submerged in the water. Other named rocks—O'Donoghue's Table, Prison, Pulpit and Library—still survive.

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   which is studded by some thirty islands of varying form and character, some luxuriant with foliage, others barren rocks scarcely large enough to be called islets. O’Donoghue’s Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down

   IOO

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 58

4. Rincrew Castle, Knights Templar preceptory

   Rincrew · townland · Waterford

   The conspicuous Rincrew Castle on the left bank of the Blackwater was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow.

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   After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhincrew Castle, on the left, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight ; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy

   Kiu.irney' (/)

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 38

5. St. Multose Parish Church, Kinsale

   Kinsale · town · Cork · 1300–1399

   The Parish Church in Kinsale is dedicated to a female saint, St. Multose or Multosia, said to have built it in the fourteenth century. It is cruciform with a curiously shaped west tower terminating in a broach spire.

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   Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon. It has a quaint appearance, its houses, many of which are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some being perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river ; and the ruins of the old fort, which was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, add piquancy to the outlook. There is a charming public walk, shaded by trees, around Compass Hill, which commands a series of good views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove (the favourite quarters of summer visitors), and the entire neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church, dedicated to, and said to have been built by, a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions than the lower portion, terminating in a broach spire.

   Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a “ sovereign ” and other officials. It has an interesting history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the “ native Irish,” from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. J-ames II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 92

   As the companion tells it

   As the road brings you through Kinsale, in Cork, the Parish Church here is the one object of antiquarian interest in the town. It is dedicated to a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, and is said to have been built by her in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform in plan, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end. Its upper stage is of smaller dimensions than the lower portion, and it terminates in a broach spire. Kinsale itself is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon, and has a quaint appearance, with houses rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some perched on projecting crags. Many of these houses are evidently of Spanish origin. The streets follow the windings of the river. The ruins of the old fort, deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, add to the outlook. There is a public walk shaded by trees around Compass Hill, commanding views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove, and the entire neighbourhood. Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a sovereign and other officials. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods, and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the native Irish, from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it remains the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland.

6. Whiddy Island church ruins and O'Sullivan Bere castle

   near Whiddy Island · island or archipelago · Cork · 1422–1461

   Whiddy Island, formerly Lord Bantry's deer-park, comprises about 1,218 acres and contains relics of an old church with a cemetery. On the eastern point are ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O'Sullivan Bere.

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   formerly Lord Bantry’s deer-park, comprises an area of about 1,218 acres, and is remarkable for the diversified quality of its soil. A black shaly substance, soft and unctuous, resembling black-lead, found on the northern side, was at one time highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed medicinal qualities. There are some relics of an old church, with a cemetery attached ; and on the eastern point of the island are the ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O’Sullivan Bere. Though apparently so near, it is almost a mile and three-quarters from Bantry.

   At Bantry, we are at the end of—

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 88

7. Kilmallock, the Baalbec of Ireland

   Kilmallock · town · Limerick

   Kilmallock is noted for its numerous ruins including old castles, churches, and spacious mansions that attest its former magnificence. These remains have earned the town the name 'the Baalbec of Ireland.'

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   Kilmalloek is noted for its numerous ruins — old castles, churches and spacious mansions, which attest its former magnificence, and have given it the name of the Baalbec of Ireland.

   At Charleville, the direct line from Cork to Limerick leaves the main line of the system.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 20

8. Adrigole Waterfall and Hungry Hill

   Adrigole · townland · Cork

   A lofty waterfall near Adrigole, twelve miles westward from Glengariff, accompanied by Hungry Hill rising to 2,251 feet. The area offered sport for rod and gun.

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   There is the best of sport, too, for rod and gun. For those who must wander, there is the drive or walk to Lord Bantry’s Shooting Box, with its pretty demesne. A longer trip is to the lofty Adrigole Waterfall (12 miles westward), and Hungry Hill (2,251 feet).

   By cycling, or taking the mail-car, one can get as far in this direction as Castletown Bearhaven (22 miles), a tiny town with one or two good inns, chiefly known to fame in connection with autumnal naval manoeuvres. A project has been mooted for making it a Transatlantic port, and it will

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 85

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here you have the lofty Adrigole Waterfall, twelve miles west from Glengariff, with Hungry Hill rising to 2,251 feet. In the late nineteenth century this stretch offered the best of sport for rod and gun, and for walkers there was the route to Lord Bantry's Shooting Box and its pretty demesne. A traveller could also cycle or take the mail-car on toward Castletown Bearhaven, twenty-two miles along, a tiny town with one or two good inns, chiefly known for autumnal naval manoeuvres.

9. Belvelly Castle, former Hodnett seat on Great Island

   Belvelly · townland · Cork

   The remains of Belvelly Castle stand on Great Island. It was formerly a seat of the Hodnetts but now forms part of the Barry estate, like much of the surrounding land.

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   Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

   Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more convenient to regard this as a separate trip (see p. 54), and to continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 29

10. Bray Head panorama from Valentia Island

    near Bray Head · promontory · Kerry

    Bray Head, the most westerly point of Valentia Island, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea. From its crest one sees the Skelligs to the south, Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains to the north, and the Iveragh Mountains inland.

    Read the passage

    The shores are indented with bays and cliffs, and guarded by isolated rocks, against which the waves of the Atlantic surge with uncontrolled fury. Bray Head, the most westerly point, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea, and from its lofty crest we have a glorious view. Eight miles to the south, the Skelligs loom like pyramids above the boundless ocean, and all the islands in sight have an extraordinary and abrupt outline — stern, yet picturesque. Northward we see Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains, the Great Blasket, and many lesser islands elevated over the surging waves ; some that look like batteries and castles, others that appear like Gothic houses. Inland, we behold the many-tinted inclines of the Iveragh Mountains, with their wild, serrated ridges ; and seaward, we gaze upon the mighty Atlantic, spreading into a vast horizon that seems a wall of water.

    The visitor should not leave without inspecting the lighthouse and the monument to the memory of the late Knight of Kerry, both of them built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell' s Fort, as the headland is named, a reminiscence of the fact that Noll erected forts at each end of the island, as well to safeguard the coast as to prevent the captains of hostile privateers from using the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 73

11. Cloon Lake's storm-riven cliffs and wildlife

    near Cloon Lough · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Upper and Lower Cloon Lake is encircled by high, storm-riven cliffs and features a small green island where herons, wood-pigeons, wild goats, and marten cats find solitude.

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    “ Cloon Lake, Upper and Lower, is a good fishing resort. The upper end is encircled by high, storm-riven cliffs of solid stone ; and on the bosom of the lower lake rests a small green island, covered with rocks, heather, and low trees. In this solitude the heron and the wood-pigeon build their nests side by side ; and on the approach of man, the wild goat and the marten cat have been seen swimming away to the mainland.”

    Another noteworthy sheet of water in the- neighbourhood of Glencar is Acoose Lake, near to which the high-road to Killorglin passes. The mountaineer may humour his weakness from Caragh or Glencar as much as he pleases, amongst the peaks “ available ” being Carran Tual (3,414), more often ascended from Killarney (see p. 96), and, for the less ambitious, Gortnagloran (nearly 1,000 feet high) on the east side of the lake. A series of driving and boating excursions has been arranged from the Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake, at fixed prices. The drive along the road to Waterville should be taken at least as far as the Swiss-like Ballaghasheen Pass. Another fine drive is by the road southward through the Ballaghbeama Pass to Blackwater Bridge and Parknasilla (22 miles). Yet another drive, a circular one, is round the east side of Lough Caragh to Blackstones Bridge, then through Windy Gap, with its fine frontward view, to Glenbeigh.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 71

12. Glacial lake at Lough Coomanassig

    Lough Coomanassig · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above sea level in Kerry, was hollowed out by a glacier. Lower down, a moraine blocked the valley forming a second tarn known as the eagle's lough.

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    from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one. This basin was hollowed out by a glacier ; lower down the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn — the eagle’s lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks — one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone.

    Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 97

13. Killarney House and the Italian gardens of the Earl of Kenmare

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Killarney House, the Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, stands on a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by a demesne and park skirting the Lower Lake. An annual flower show is held in its Italian gardens under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare, and the Gaelic League holds its Annual Fete in the grounds.

    Read the passage

    The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a number of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town.

    Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotiations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 44

14. Maryborough Castle bastion

    Portlaoise · municipal district · Laois

    Maryborough (now Portlaoise) retains a bastion of its old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the newly conquered neighbourhood.

    Read the passage

    range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase.

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line ; and Ballybrophy station (vef. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as “ godless,” recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 19

15. Ruins of Killaha Castle, stronghold of the O'Donoghues

    Killaha · townland · Kerry

    Near the upper entrance to Glenflesk stand the ruins of Killaha Castle on a commanding site, formerly the stronghold of the O'Donoghues of the glens. Hard by are the remains of an old church.

    Read the passage

    should be visited by every tourist ; it lies to the south-east of the town. The most beautiful spots may easily be reached from the railway station at Headford, eight miles from Killarney ; but it is best to drive through the glen on an outside car, as in that way its features can be seen at leisure. The glen is a richly-wooded valley through which the Flesk carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen, and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of cascades over the barriers which obstruct its path. Filadown, the most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated outlaw, Owen MacCarthy ; his den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon’s Cliff. Near the upper entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O’Donoghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the old church. The Druids’ Circles at Lissivigeen should be inspected ; and we can also visit Flesk Castle, which stands on a picturesque, wooded knoll round the base of which the river sweeps in eddying currents. An extensive panoramic view of the Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed from the castle terrace. The road home leads us past —

    Lough Guittane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 67

16. Sunday's Well named after miraculous spring

    near Sunday's Well · population centre · Cork

    Sunday's Well occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward overlooking Cork city. Its name is believed to derive from a spring once thought to possess miraculous virtues; the district also contains the Cork Waterworks and several imposing public buildings.

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    which occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward in a line with the river and overlooking the city. The name is supposed to be derived from a spring once believed to possess miraculous virtues. In this quarter are the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white stone dressings, that shows up so prominently is the St. Vincent’s Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum appears to be a quite desirable place of residence. Another building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison.

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    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Sunday's Well, on the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward overlooking Cork city. The name comes from a spring once believed to have miraculous virtues. In this quarter are the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white stone dressings, that shows up prominently is St. Vincent's Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum appears to be, in the words of the old guide, "a quite desirable place of residence." Another building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison.

17. Cashel of the Kings and cathedral ruins

    Cashel · town · Tipperary

    Cashel, known as 'Cashel of the Kings,' is an ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city of great historical interest. The ruins of the old Cathedral stand on the summit.

    Read the passage

    five and three-quarter miles to the south. Passengers can travel direct from Dublin to “ Cashel of the Kings ” without change of carriage. Few places in Ireland are of greater interest historically than this ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city. The ruins of the old Cathedral on the summit

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    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming up on Cashel, a town few places in Ireland can match for historical interest. It's known as "Cashel of the Kings," an ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city. The ruins of the old Cathedral stand on the summit.

18. Dean Swift's residence at Unionhall

    Unionhall · town · Cork

    Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall.

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    Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of the far-reaching islet known as Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall. Glandore would make a charming winter resort for invalids, the climate being noticeably mild, though this characteristic distinguishes more or less the whole of the south-west of Ireland.

    Leap stands at the mouth of a small stream of the same name, of old considered the boundary between civilisation

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Unionhall, which sits with Glandore on either side of Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived here for a period. The climate is noticeably mild, something the guide says marks the whole south-west of Ireland.

19. Early monastery on Church Island

    Church Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    On Church Island in Valentia Harbour are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells. These represent early Christian settlement on the island.

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    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Do.ulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O’Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 72

20. Great holly tree on Innisfallen

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

    A remarkable holly tree on Innisfallen, pointed out by guides to visitors, is thought to be the largest in Europe. The island also features a curious natural combination of ash, holly, hawthorn and ivy growing from what appears to be a single stem.

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    other islands and on the mainland, is not to be found. But one hardly misses it, for ivy, holly, laurel and evergreen oaks abound. The holly tree is extraordinarily abundant, and its bright corals and the scarlet clusters of the mountain ash are fresh and delicate as the arbutus berry. The great holly, which the guide must find for the visitor, is thought to be the largest in Europe. Another curiosity which will tempt the tourist to explore the mazes of this leafy island is a tree, or rather a combination of four trees, united so closely as to appear growing from the same stem ; they are ash, holly, hawthorn and ivy.

    The island lies about half a mile from the shore, between Ross and Rabbit Islands ; it is next in size to the former, and contains about twenty-one acres. In this small space groves of evergreens and forest-trees are disposed with such exquisite taste that walks in many directions lead through thickets of the densest foliage, by trees of enormous girth, over lawns and dells and hills ; and often the view opens through a vestibule of arching trees, through which the mountains loom with a dreamy, indescribable outline. When approaching the island in a boat the density of the underwood is such that it looks as if it were growing out of the lake.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 60

21. Lord Brandon's Demesne and the Upper Lake approach

    near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The road to the Upper Lake passes through what is still known as Lord Brandon's Demesne, though it has long since passed into other hands, with a toll of a shilling. A small quay with waiting boats and a luncheon lawn marks the embarkation point onto the Upper Lake.

    Read the passage

    Regaining the road, we follow the course of the river, through what is still known as Lord Brandon’s Demesne, though it has long since passed into other hands. A toll of a shilling has to he paid. The road conducts us to a small quay, where we find the boats are waiting and a welcome luncheon is spread upon the lawn. In fine weather, the rest for luncheon in this delightful spot is considered by many the best part of the day. Embarking and rowing down stream, we soon find ourselves on the bosom of —

    The Upper Lake,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 65

22. Mallow, the Bath of Ireland

    Mallow · town · Cork

    Mallow, on the banks of the Cork Blackwater, was once known as the Bath of Ireland and was a popular resort for invalids who came to drink its mineral waters. The town remains a favourite centre for anglers due to excellent fishing and convenient railway transit.

    Read the passage

    Leaving Buttevant and continuing our southward course, we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important railway junction (ref. room), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the convenience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 20

23. Molana Abbey and burial of Raymond le Gros

    Molana Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Waterford

    The ruins of Molana Abbey stand on the Blackwater near Templemichael. Raymond le Gros, the Norman companion-in-arms of Strongbow who founded Rincrew Castle, is said to lie buried there.

    Read the passage

    After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhincrew Castle, on the left, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight ; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy

    Kiu.irney' (/)

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 38

24. The three Lakes of Killarney and the Long Range

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Lakes of Killarney comprise the Upper, the Middle (Tore), and the Lower (Lough Leane), connected by the tortuous Long Range stream and fed by mountain streams. Sir Walter Scott praised the Long Range as finer than anything in Scotland, and Thackeray pronounced the lakes 'too handsome.'

    Read the passage

    The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery surrounding the famous lakes, which are three in number, known respectively as the Upper ; the Middle, or Tore ; and the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane. The lakes are connected by a tortuous stream, called the Long Range, which winds in and out in the most pleasant manner. The lakes are fed by a number of mountain streams, their surplus water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour, on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was admitted by Sir Walter Scott to be finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature ; and after exploring the lakes as recommended in the following pages, we believe most tourists will agree with Thackeray when he pronounces them “ too handsome.”

    If the visitor is pressed for time and does not fear fatigue, he may, by “ galloping over the lakes in one day,” get a glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so, he may proceed by Aghadoe ; visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran Tual, descending by the Black Valley ; and return by boat through the lakes. Or he may proceed back through the Gap of Dunloe, and home by Lord Brandon’s Cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagles’ Nest, Tore and Muckross. Another one day excursion is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O’Sullivan’s Cascade, Innisfallen and Ross.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 50

25. Ballynacarriga Castle ruins on a lakeside rock

    Ballynacarriga Castle · monument · Cork

    The ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle consist of a square pile of buildings standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot, visible from the railway line following the river Bandon.

    Read the passage

    We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot.

    From Clonakilty Junction (twenty-four miles distant from Cork and four from Bandon) a short branch runs down to the sea, some nine miles distant, at

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 91

26. Castletown Bearhaven and Bear Island fortifications

    Castletownbere · town · Cork

    Castletown Bearhaven is a tiny town known for autumnal naval manoeuvres, with proposals to make it a Transatlantic port. The haven formed by Bear Island is strongly fortified.

    Read the passage

    certainly prove a formidable rival to Queenstown when the proposed lines to Bantry and Kenmare are constructed. The haven formed by Bear Island is strongly fortified. At the eastern or seaward entry of the haven stand the ruins of Dunboy Castle, which furnished the late Mr. J. A. Fronde with a title and some material for his novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy. The cyclist can return by the road over the Slieve Miskish Mountain to the south shore of Kenmare river, and thence eastward by way of Ardgroom and Kilmakilloge Harbours, Derreen (a seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne), and Clonee Lakes, to Kenmare, The whole round

    1 5 8 CASTLETO WN BE A RHA VEN

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Castletown Bearhaven is a small town you are passing through, with a haven formed by Bear Island that is strongly fortified. There have been proposals to make it a Transatlantic port, rivaling Queenstown once proposed lines to Bantry and Kenmare are constructed. At the seaward entry of the haven stand the ruins of Dunboy Castle, which gave the late Mr. J. A. Froude a title and material for his novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy.

27. Dunloe Castle of the O'Sullivan More

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry

    On the return route from Carran Tual through Churchtown, travellers leave the castle of the O'Sullivan More at Dunloe on the right, an association linking the landscape to the powerful O'Sullivan sept.

    Read the passage

    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churchtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit— perhaps the Bishop’s palace.

    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to CummeendufT Glen — rarely visited — and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 57

28. Farewell to the lakes at Mulgrave Police Barracks

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    At Mulgrave Police Barracks, the tourist bids farewell to the Killarney lakes. A deep, wondrous valley holds the three lakes like sheets of silver, a scene described as an earthly paradise in summer.

    Read the passage

    ton tower above us. We presently reach the tunnel shown in our illustration on p. 91. At Mulgrave Police Barracks the tourist bids farewell to the lakes. “ No description/’ it has been well said, “ can convey any adequate idea of the loveliness of the scene which presents itself from this spot ; looking back towards Killarney the eye beholds a deep and wondrous valley, in the bosom of which the whole of the three lakes lie like sheets of silver. Mr. Justin PI. McCarthy thus eloquently described his impressions of Killarney, evidently with this scene in his mind : —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 81

29. Father O'Mahony, recluse at Gougane Barra

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork · 1700–1730

    In the early part of the eighteenth century, Father O'Mahony retired to the island at Gougane Barra as a recluse. His tomb, said to have been erected by himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland.

    Read the passage

    when Mass is celebrated in the open air. In the early part of the eighteenth century another recluse, Father O’Mahony, retired to the island, and his tomb, erected it is said by himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland.

    Returning to the main road, where the coach awaits us, we at once enter on the best part of the drive.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 95

30. Killarney as a market town under the Earl of Kenmare

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Killarney is described as a small market town 186 miles south-west of Dublin, the property of the Earl of Kenmare. Its prosperity depends mainly on summer and autumn visitors, with boot factories and newly established rug and carpet factories providing employment.

    Read the passage

    Killarney is a small market town, 186 miles south-west of Dublin, forty north of Cork, and twenty-one to the southeast of Tralee. It is the property of the Earl of Kenmare, and contains some good streets, though a few of the thoroughfares are narrow and old-fashioned. Its prosperity is mainly dependent on the influx of visitors during the summer and autumn. Boot factories give employment to a number of men, and recently the establishment of two rug and carpet factories has given employment to a considerable number of girls. The town is governed by an Urban Council. The water supply is brought in pipes from the Devil’s Punch Bowl, near the summit of Mangerton. The sewage system was entirely remodelled in 1896, and is now perfect, pipes having been substituted for the old built sewers and the outfall removed over a mile from the nearest house. The town is lighted both by gas and electricity. It is very healthy, zymotic and lung diseases being practically unknown. An authority already quoted says : *“ The climate is remarkably mild and equable. During the early spring months an invalid convalescing from an attack of serious illness would

    * Irish Health Resorts and Watering Places. Dr. Edgar Flinn, Fellow and Member of Council of the British Institute of Public Health.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 43

31. Mountain Stage's coaching history

    Mountain Stage · man-made feature · Kerry

    Mountain Stage takes its name from having been the stage-house in the days of cars and coaches. It sits on a piece of genuine mountain railway over 400 feet above the sea.

    Read the passage

    Leaving Glenbeigh, the line ascends and comes quite close to the coast, and we have superb views on the right of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty mountains. We continue to ascend, and at Mountain Stage (so named from its having been the stage-house in the not very remote days of cars and coaches) we are on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more than 400 feet above the sea. The line presently turns inland to Kells (a small hamlet merely, and not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland). A long descent brings us to —

    133

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 71

32. Mount Owen, source of three rivers

    Mullaghmesha · townland · Cork

    Mount Owen (1,762 feet), prominent to the northward after passing Durrus Road station, is the source of three rivers flowing in opposite directions: the Bandon reaching the sea at Kinsale, the Ilen below Skibbereen, and the Mealagh into Bantry Bay.

    Read the passage

    a line which connects the town with Cork and which, by means of its branches and affiliations, opens up communication with the principal harbours in the much-indented coast of South-West Ireland. The line has a connection with the quay at Bantry, a very useful addition to the commercial conveniences of the town. The carriages on the line are roomy and comfortable, and the saloons are so arranged that the views on either side can be fully enjoyed. The prominent hill to northward, after passing the small station of Durrus Road, is Mount Owen (1,762 feet), the source of three rivers, which flow in opposite directions — the Bandon falling into the sea at Kinsale, the lien below Skibbereen, and the Mealagh into Bantry Bay.

    Drimoleague is the junction for the Skibbereen and Baltimore line. The break of journey is somewhat inconvenient, but there is a good deal to interest the tourist in this almost unexplored corner of Erin. Skibbereen is, in its turn, the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 88

33. Parknasilla – former Bishop of Limerick residence

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    Parknasilla is a health resort whose demesne was formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick. A commodious hotel was erected in the grounds, which cover about a hundred acres and include several islets connected by rustic bridges.

    Read the passage

    In the demesne, formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick, has been erected a tasteful and commodious hotel (under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Co.), to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers are making this place their headquarters. It is usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about a hundred acres, and include several islets connected by rustic bridges.

    The situation of Parknasilla is delightful. It stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill (895 feet), with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it “ one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough,” and frankly owns that “ to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us.” On the important subject of climate a writer in the Dublin Journal of Medical Science says of Parknasilla : —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    Along here in Parknasilla, the demesne was formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick. A tasteful and commodious hotel has been erected in the grounds, under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers are making this place their headquarters. It is usual to stop here for the night, and the unhurried tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about a hundred acres and include several islets connected by rustic bridges. The situation is delightful. It stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill, 895 feet, with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it "one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough," and frankly owns that "to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us."

34. St. Patrick's Bridge: History and Dimensions

    Cork · city · Cork · 1798–1859

    St. Patrick's Bridge in Cork dates from 1859 and is notably broad. It occupies the site of an older structure erected in 1798 that was destroyed by a flood in 1853.

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    The streets are spacious, but of irregular formation — a state of things attributable to their having been originally erected on the banks of the streams which separated the islands (now united), the opposite sides of which were connected by bridges. As Macaulay puts it : “ The city extended over about onetenth part of the space which it now covers, and was intersected by muddy streams, which have long been concealed by arches and buildings. A desolate marsh, in which the sportsman who pursued the waterfowl sank deep in water and mire at every step, covered the area now occupied by stately buildings, the palaces of great commercial societies.” As a reference to our plan will show, the central portion of the city is connected with those parts on the banks of the Lee by numerous bridges, the chief of which are St. Patrick’s and the Parnell Bridges. The latter, formerly known as the Anglesea Bridge, was rebuilt in 1882, and re-named, as we have said, in honour of the then senior member for the city. St. Patrick’s Bridge is remarkable as being broader than any bridge which spans the Thames except Westminster, the new structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London Bridge ; it is over 60 feet within the parapets. The bridge dates from 1859, and occupies the site of an older structure erected in 1798, and destroyed by flood in 1853. These two bridges are indirectly connected by three of the widest and best streets in Cork — St. Patrick’s Street, the Grand Parade, and the South Mall ; and directly by the Merchants’ Quay, on the south bank of the North River, and Warren’s Place, which rivals in width and regularity the three streets already mentioned.

    The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for many years the only means of communication with the surrounding country. The bridges are connected by North and

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

35. Aghadoe Ruins and St Finian's shrine

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Returning from Carran Tual via Churchtown, visitors pass the Aghadoe Ruins, identified as St Finian's ancient shrine and the Pulpit—perhaps the Bishop's palace—near Aghadoe House and a Catholic church on the road to Killarney.

    Read the passage

    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churchtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit— perhaps the Bishop’s palace.

    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to CummeendufT Glen — rarely visited — and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 57

36. Clarke's Bridge Built of Red Clay-Slate

    Cork · city · Cork · 1726

    Clarke's Bridge in Cork spans the South River and connects Wandesford Quay with Hanover Street. It was constructed in 1726 using red clay-slate.

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    Clarke’s Bridge and Parliament Bridge also span the South River. The former, which connects Wandesford Quay with Hanover Street, was built in 1726, of red clay-slate ; and the latter, a handsome structure, of one broad arch with open parapets, built of the hewn limestone so much in favour in the city, connects the South Mall with Sullivan’s Quay. The student of bridges can do very well at Cork. Not only has he within a small area no less than nine examples, but there is such a pleasing diversity in the styles that he can hardly fail to be instructed and edified.

    This diversity in the matter of bridges is equalled, if not excelled, by the diversity of the buildings. A most noticeable peculiarity of Cork is its absolute want of uniformity, and the striking contrasts in colour of the houses. The stone of which the houses in the northern suburbs is built is of a reddish brown — that 011 the south of a cold gray tint. Some are constructed of red brick, some of brown brick, some are sheathed in slate, some whitewashed, some reddened, some yellowed. The most conspicuous steeple in the place, that of St. Ann’s, Shandon, is actually red two sides and white the others.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

37. Colman's Eye promontory and the Long Range strait

    near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Colman's Eye is the promontory marking the extremity of the Lower Lake where the strait called the Long Range begins. A cluster of fantastically shaped rocks there prompts guides to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef, and other objects.

    Read the passage

    MacCarthy More’s Island is one of the first islands passed. It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne’s Island, where may be had some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman’s Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed — the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters. We soon reach —

    1 16

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 65

38. County Lunatic Asylum overlooking Killarney scenery

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The County Lunatic Asylum stands on high ground to the north of Killarney, commanding an uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district. It is listed among the town's principal public buildings alongside the Police Barracks, Courthouse, Town Hall, and Union Workhouse.

    Read the passage

    the privilege of entry on the introduction of a member. The Total Abstinence Society occupies a spacious building, which visitors may view. The County Lunatic Asylum, standing on the high ground to the north of the town, commands an uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district. These, with the pretentious castellated Police Barracks, the Courthouse, the Town Hall, and the Union Workhouse complete the list of public buildings.

    The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a number of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 44

39. Glenbeigh and its origin at the River Beigh

    Glenbeigh · town · Kerry

    Glenbeigh is a promising watering-place named from its location at the mouth of the river Beigh, which rises in the stern crag-surrounded loughs of Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw, and Coomnacronia.

    Read the passage

    is a promising little watering-place, with a good hotel, golf links, and a fine strand for bathing. Glenbeigh takes its name from its situation at the mouth of the river Beigh, which rises some five miles south-westward in the stern cragsurrounded loughs known as Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw, and Coomnacronia. Coomasharn is certainly worth a visit, on account of the great precipices which overhang it. At Glenbeigh a rug and carpet industry has recently been started.

    Leaving Glenbeigh, the line ascends and comes quite close to the coast, and we have superb views on the right of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty mountains. We continue to ascend, and at Mountain Stage (so named from its having been the stage-house in the not very remote days of cars and coaches) we are on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more than 400 feet above the sea. The line presently turns inland to Kells (a small hamlet merely, and not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland). A long descent brings us to —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 71

40. Great Island, formerly Barrymore Island

    near Great Island · townland · Cork

    Great Island measures five miles east to west and two miles south to north. It was formerly known as Barrymore Island and features occasional martello towers along its circuit.

    Read the passage

    Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

    Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more convenient to regard this as a separate trip (see p. 54), and to continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 29

41. Inchigeelagh angling village

    Inchigeelagh · townland · Cork

    Inchigeelagh, ten miles from Macroom and thirty-four from Cork, is mostly resorted to by anglers. Trout are plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers, and boats can be hired at sixpence an hour.

    Read the passage

    At Inchigeela ( Lake Hotel) a halt is called. We are now ten miles from Macroom, and thirty- four from Cork. The village is mostly resorted to by anglers, trout being plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers. Boats can be hired at sixpence an hour.

    Leaving Inchigeela, we commence the second section of the drive. It is a noteworthy feature of this route that it presents a sample of almost every kind of scenery. Macroom to Inchigeela is chiefly interesting for the prospect ahead ; Inchigeela to Gougane Barra for the soft loveliness of the lakes ; Gougane Barra and Keimaneigh for stern, rugged, mountain scenery ; Keimaneigh to Glengariff for the fine distant seascapes and mountain backgrounds. Five miles after leaving Inchigeela village we have, close to the road, a chain of no less than six lakes or “ broads,” the largest of which is Lough Allua. The lakes are really an expansion of the Lee. With their fringe of rushes, white water-lilies and setting of firs, the waters are distinctly picturesque, though they lack the overshadowing heights which give to the lakes of Cumberland and Westmorland so much of their grandeur. The curiously shaped height to the left, which has been for some time conspicuous, is the Sheehy Mountain (1,747 feet). The mountains now close in on either side, and three miles westward of the hamlet of Ballingeary, we stop at Gougane Barra cross-roads, twenty miles from Macroom.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94

42. Kildare round tower and restored cathedral

    Kildare · town · Kildare

    The town of Kildare is overlooked by a round tower 132 feet high on a ridge. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at a cost of £12,000.

    Read the passage

    The town of Kildare is half concealed from the railway by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower, 132 feet high. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at a cost of ;£ 12,000.

    A branch line runs off to the west from Portarlington ( refreshment room at station), chiefly through the famous Bog of Allen, to Tullamore and Athlone, where it connects with the Midland Great Western Railway.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 18

43. Lough Leane name derived from religious houses

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Lower Lake's proper name is Lough Leane, meaning 'the lake of learning,' probably derived from the three religious establishments that once stood on its shores.

    Read the passage

    The Lower Lake is more than five miles long by three wide ; its proper name is Lough Leane (“ the lake of learning ”), probably derived from the fact that there were three religious establishments on its shores. We first visit —

    Ross Island,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 58

44. Red deer wild only at Killarney

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Red deer are found wild only at Killarney, and elk were once present there as well, making the district zoologically notable.

    Read the passage

    Zoology. — Red deer are now found wild only at Killarney. Elk were once there. The zoology of the Kerry district is specially interesting, both fauna and flora having apparently a Spanish or Portuguese origin, hence they are called Lusitanian — the former name of the Roman province now Portugal. A black slug with yellow spots is found only in the south-west of Ireland and Portugal — nowhere else in the world. Other molluscs have a similar origin, but two are peculiar to Kenmare. Other very rare creatures may be found in this region, a dark wood-mouse, etc. But the district also contains North American and Arctic forms of life — fresh-water sponge, certain beetles, butterflies, etc. The great wolf spider, the large grasshopper, and the clear-wing moth are all found here, and many rare insects.

    Botany. — Here also a Lusitanian origin may be seen in many specimens, for Mediterranean or Pyrenean flowering plants are found, as well as some American. Some of the semi-tropical mosses, etc., are found nowhere else in Europe, possibly the Gulf Stream has carried them over. It is

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 97

45. Rocky Island ammunition store

    near Rocky Island · townland · Cork

    Rocky Island, lying to the south of Haulbowline, is principally used for the storage of ammunition.

    Read the passage

    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 28

46. Round Hill ancient stronghold near Lismore

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    An ancient stronghold known as the Round Hill stands near Lismore. Its former name, 'the great fort,' is the origin of the name Lismore, borne by the neighbouring town.

    Read the passage

    The road on the south side of the river affords most delightful views of the opposite and more wooded part of the valley. The tourist who makes it his choice must cross Cappoquin Bridge and then turn to the right. At the end of a mile he will be at the brink of the river, just opposite Salterbridge House, and for the next mile and a half will travel by the side of the stream. When he gets abreast of a wooded islet, he will find that the road turns to the left, while on the right is the Round Hill, an ancient stronghold formerly known by the name now borne by the neighbouring town — Lismore, the great fort. At the end of another quarter of a mile the traveller must bear to the right, and then a straight mile or so lies between him and —

    Lismore,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 40

47. The Tunnel: arch cut through rock on Upper Lake road

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The Tunnel is an arch cut through an enormous rock, under which the road passes. From the top one of the finest views of the Upper Lake is obtained, with the Reeks, Black Valley, and Gap of Dunloe visible.

    Read the passage

    an arch cut through an enormous rock, under which the road passes. From the top one of the finest views of the Upper Lake is obtained. The background to this picture is formed by the rugged summits of the Reeks — Carran Tual rising like a dome above the crowded panorama ; while before us are the Black Valley and the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe. Opposite is the Doogary River, and we see its waters flashing down the furrows of the Purple Mountain. Every description of scenery meets the eye. There are precipices crowned with pines ; naked rocks, rent, seamed and broken, jut darkly into the waters ; and there are precipitous slopes strewn with detached masses of rock, bald and barren, or covered with purple heather or fresh sward. There are islands clad with foliage, and winding shores lined with evergreens, alternating with stately forest-trees.

    About a mile further on, we cross the Galways River, close to the Derrycunnihy Cascade. To visit it, we take a byepath ; and long before seeing the fall hear its reverberations. Surrounded by some of the choicest scenery in Killarney, the cataract is exceedingly fine. It plunges down a deep mountain chasm, amid rocks which tear the waters into torrents that fall shivering on to lower rocks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 52

48. Trabolgan, seat of Lord Fermoy

    Trabolgan · townland · Cork

    Trabolgan is noted as a seat of Lord Fermoy, situated along the coach route from Aghada to Roche's Point. The route affords excellent views of the harbour.

    Read the passage

    The coach trip (a), to Roche’s Point, etc., affords excellent views of the harbour, and is breezy and exhilarating. Trabolgan is a seat of Lord Fermoy. Roche’s Point Lighthouse, familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for homeward-bound vessels.

    The route ( b ), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney,. but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (5^miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 1 1|- feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 31

49. Voyage to the Skelligs from Valentia

    near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry

    Excursions by steam launch from Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee carry visitors through the channel inside Valentia Island, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay, then past the Hog Islands, Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, and Molans. These islands are remarkable for their stern wildness.

    Read the passage

    One of the most interesting excursions the tourist can make, if the weather favours, is along the iron-bound coast of Kerry, keeping as close under the land as safety will permit. Apply to proprietor of Royal Hotel for particulars of trips by steam launch. The voyager beholds a panorama of indescribable magnificence. It is at the outer points and headlands that the grandest features of Kerry scenery are found, and these are missed by the tourist who visits them only by land. Leaving Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee, as the case may be, we are carried through the somewhat tortuous navigation of the channel inside the island of Valentia, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay. Our exit to the ocean is under the massive and lofty cliffs of Portmagee ; and then we thread our way through the Hog Islands — Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, Molans, and many others, remarkable for their stern wildness. Some of the largest are wildernesses of bog and rock, green with mosses, ferns, lichens, and lowgrowing plants that require constant moisture for their support ; but without a tree or shrub of any kind. The Calf is the most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Kenmare. Two others are known as the Bull and Cow from their supposed resemblance to those animals.

    The Skelligs

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 74

50. Clondalkin round tower

    near Clondalkin · town · Dublin

    Clondalkin is noted for possessing one of the most complete round towers in Ireland, visible from the railway line between Dublin and Killarney.

    Read the passage

    THE point of departure from Dublin to the South of Ireland is the Kingsbridge terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, at the western end of the city. Leaving Kingsbridge Station, we skirt the famous Phoenix Park, and pass in succession Clondalkin, where may be seen one of the most perfect of the many round towers in Ireland ; Lucan, noted for its mineral spring and its strawberry beds ; and Hazlehatch. The latter affords access to the town of Celbridge, near which is the abbey of the same name, a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa in his poem of “ Cadenus and Vanessa.”

    Our onward journey is through pretty country, At Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 18

51. Great Island and the East Ferry River channel

    near Great Island · townland · Cork

    The East Ferry River is the narrow channel separating Great Island from the mainland near Aghada. A sail up this channel is described as a delightful experience, with pleasing scenery on either side.

    Read the passage

    steamer proceeds almost due east, giving passengers an opportunity of seeing parts of the great harbour not touched by the Crosshaven route. Here is the favourite anchorage for yachts. Great Island shows up well, and almost due north of Aghada we get a glimpse of the East Ferry River, the narrow channel which separates the island from the mainland. A sail up this channel is a delightful experience, the scenery on either side being very pleasing.

    Aghada.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 31

52. Lansdowne Suspension Bridge over Kenmare Bay

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry

    The Lansdowne Suspension Bridge crosses Kenmare Bay and was the first structure of its kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape west of the town.

    Read the passage

    To-day, Kenmare consists of a main street, leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. There is a good pier a little to the west of the town ; and the bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of the kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice, with a lofty spire, and is handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, the most important feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels, but no one will regret visiting the institution itself. It is wonderful to see how the devoted nuns^succeed in training their young pupils. Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy and

    148 KEN MARE TO KILLARNEY BY RAIL

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Kenmare, the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge crosses the bay. It was the first structure of its kind in Ireland, and it forms a striking object in the landscape west of the town. There is a good pier a little to the west as well. The guide tells us that Kenmare itself consists of a main street leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. The Catholic Church nearby is a spacious edifice with a lofty spire, handsomely decorated thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, called the most important feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels. It is wonderful, the guide says, to see how the devoted nuns succeed in training their young pupils.

53. Aghada: 'long ford' settlement on Cork Harbour

    Aghada · townland · Cork

    Aghada, meaning 'long ford,' is described as little more than a straggling street of mean-looking houses, picturesque only from the water. It serves as a steamer landing point with coach connections to Roche's Point, Cloyne, and Ballycotton.

    Read the passage

    Aghada, “long ford” (pronounced A -had' -a, with accent on second syllable), is little more than a straggling street of mean-looking houses, picturesque only from the water.

    The coach trip (a), to Roche’s Point, etc., affords excellent views of the harbour, and is breezy and exhilarating. Trabolgan is a seat of Lord Fermoy. Roche’s Point Lighthouse, familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for homeward-bound vessels.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 31

54. Glengarriff village nestled in foliage above Bantry Bay

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    The village of Glengarriff is glimpsed far below from the descending coach road, almost hidden among trees, with the sparkling sea and island-dotted harbour of Bantry Bay visible beyond.

    Read the passage

    the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, towards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out Lord Bantry' s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right, and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 82

55. Northgate Bridge and Old City Fortifications

    Cork · city · Cork

    Northgate Bridge in Cork occupies the site of old fortified bridges and gates of the city. Along with Southgate Bridge, it long formed the only means of communication with the surrounding country.

    Read the passage

    The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for many years the only means of communication with the surrounding country. The bridges are connected by North and

    28

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

56. Sneem village in Killcrohane parish

    Sneem · town · Kerry

    Sneem is the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane, prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and several mountain streamlets. It contains a Roman Catholic Church with a curious campanile, a Protestant Church, and a comfortable inn.

    Read the passage

    As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left. Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The view i^Sobtained at the junction of another road with that along which we are driving, as we approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane', through which we have been travelling ever since we left Darryrtane. Sneem is prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It cou-

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 77

57. Coomcallee mountain and lake

    Coomcallee · townland · Kerry

    The valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake at its foot, is described as perhaps the most charming of the landscapes along the Kenmare Bay drive.

    Read the passage

    As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left. Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The view i^Sobtained at the junction of another road with that along which we are driving, as we approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane', through which we have been travelling ever since we left Darryrtane. Sneem is prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It cou-

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 77

58. Dominican Church of St. Mary's, Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    The Dominican Church of St. Mary's features an Ionic portico visible from St. Patrick's Bridge. It is admired for the chasteness of its style and just proportions.

    Read the passage

    Having regained St. Patrick’s Bridge, a walk of a quarter of a mile along the north side of the river would bring us to the Dominican Church of St. Mary’s, the Ionic portico of which stands out so clearly in the view from St. Patrick’s Bridge. The church is deservedly admired for the chasteness of its style and its just proportions.

    On the opposite bank of the river, but not quite so far from St. Patrick’s Bridge, is the Cork Opera House.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 26

59. Glencar compared to a Swiss valley

    near Glencar · population centre · Kerry

    The district of Glencar, hemmed in by mountains in a great circle, is described as resembling a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale, cut off from the world save by a small pass.

    Read the passage

    “ Here,” it has been well said, “ one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of varying height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which we entered. About two and a half hours’ stay is allowed here, and the cars take us to the boat at Blackstones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving, the visitor may y/alk by the river along the fisherman’s path, passing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves of birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale — the same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere meets the eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station, some very fine cliffs and headlands are passed, extending all along the lake on,the east side, and the scenery is very varied and beautiful as we approach the end of our journey.

    W. Lawrence,] [ Dublin .

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 70

60. Gougane Barra holy lake setting

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    Gougane Barra lake lies in a sequestered spot surrounded on all sides except the east by steep, desolate mountains rising abruptly to 1,800 feet. The dark cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the water.

    Read the passage

    The lake lies in a sequestered spot, environed on all save the eastern side by mountains of the steepest and most desolate aspect, which rise abruptly to a height of 1,800 feet. The dark shadows of these great overhanging cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the water. The lake itself is dark and lustrous as a polished slab of marble, and the gloomy grandeur of the cliffs is only relieved by the streams

    W. Lawrence ,]

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94