A Pictorial and descriptive guide to the Lakes of Killarney, Glengariff, and south-west Ireland, including a guide to Cork

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1. MacCarthy More's Island and the named islands of the Upper Lake

   near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

   MacCarthy More's Island on the Upper Lake is luxuriant with evergreens including Lebanon cedars. Other named islands include Ronayne's Island, Eagle Island (formerly frequented by eagles), Oak and Juniper Islands, and Arbutus Island, each named for its distinctive vegetation or wildlife.

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   MacCarthy More’s Island is one of the first islands passed. It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne’s Island, where may be had some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman’s Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed — the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters. We soon reach —

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   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 65

   As the companion tells it

   The Upper Lake in Kerry carries a chain of named islands, each with its own character. MacCarthy More's Island is one of the first you pass. It is luxuriant with evergreens, and among them Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne's Island, where some of the finest views of the lake can be had. Eagle Island is said to have been frequented at one time by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands take their names from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that shrub, growing there with marked luxuriance. Colman's Eye is the promontory marking the extremity of the Lower Lake, showing where the strait called the Long Range begins. There is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef, and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, you float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as you proceed, the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters.

2. Mathew Tower on Little Island

   near Little Island · townland · Cork

   On a small eminence on Little Island stands the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance (Father Theobald Mathew). The land north of Blackrock Castle is identified as Little Island rather than the mainland.

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   We shortly cross a viaduct over the Douglas creek, and for the rest of the journey the railway skirts the water, affording, especially if the tide be up, some most entrancing views. Lough Mahon, as the wide expanse of the Lee is here called, has the appearance of a land-locked lake. It is bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures, and dotted here and there with islands. The land to the north, nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, is not the mainland, but Little Island. Conspicuous on a small eminence is the Mathew Tower, a tribute to the memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Eastward, beyond the island of Fota, with its tower, is the lovely demesne of Lord Barrymore. Hop Island, close to Rochestown station, is said to have derived its name from the fact that the family to whom it belonged taught dancing in Cork.

   Passage West,

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 27

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here is Little Island, the land that sits in the Lee opposite Blackrock Castle. On a small eminence on the island stands the Mathew Tower, built as a tribute to the memory of Father Theobald Mathew, known as the Apostle of Temperance. The wide expanse of the Lee here is called Lough Mahon, and it has the look of a land-locked lake, bordered by hills and woods and far-stretching pastures. The island is dotted among others in this stretch of water.

3. O'Donoghue's Horse rock blown down in storm

   near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

   O'Donoghue's Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks on the Lower Lake, was blown down during a storm and now lies submerged in the water. Other named rocks—O'Donoghue's Table, Prison, Pulpit and Library—still survive.

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   which is studded by some thirty islands of varying form and character, some luxuriant with foliage, others barren rocks scarcely large enough to be called islets. O’Donoghue’s Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down

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   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 58

   As the companion tells it

   Lough Leane has some 30 islands, some rich with foliage, others bare rocks hardly big enough to call islets. O'Donoghue's Horse, one of the most celebrated rocks on the lake, was blown down in a storm and now lies submerged in the water. O'Donoghue's Table, Prison, Pulpit and Library still survive.

4. Rincrew Castle, Knights Templar preceptory

   Rincrew · townland · Waterford

   The conspicuous Rincrew Castle on the left bank of the Blackwater was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow.

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   After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhincrew Castle, on the left, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight ; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy

   Kiu.irney' (/)

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 38

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here stands Rincrew Castle, a conspicuous ruin that was once a preceptory of the Knights Templar. It was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. He lies buried not far away, at Molana Abbey. The castle looks out over the Blackwater, where the river banks rise to a considerable height on either side. The Templars kept a presence here in the time of the Norman advance into Ireland, and Raymond le Gros was among the men who led that advance beside Strongbow. What remains of the castle still stands conspicuous above the river, a mark of that chapter when the Templars held land and authority along these waters.

5. St. Multose Parish Church, Kinsale

   Kinsale · town · Cork · 1300–1399

   The Parish Church in Kinsale is dedicated to a female saint, St. Multose or Multosia, said to have built it in the fourteenth century. It is cruciform with a curiously shaped west tower terminating in a broach spire.

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   Kinsale is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon. It has a quaint appearance, its houses, many of which are evidently of Spanish origin, rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some being perched on projecting crags. The streets follow the windings of the river ; and the ruins of the old fort, which was deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, add piquancy to the outlook. There is a charming public walk, shaded by trees, around Compass Hill, which commands a series of good views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove (the favourite quarters of summer visitors), and the entire neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian interest in the town is the Parish Church, dedicated to, and said to have been built by, a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions than the lower portion, terminating in a broach spire.

   Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a “ sovereign ” and other officials. It has an interesting history. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods ; and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the “ native Irish,” from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. J-ames II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended so disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are daring seamen and good pilots. The harbour is protected by

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 92

   As the companion tells it

   As the road brings you through Kinsale, in Cork, the Parish Church here is the one object of antiquarian interest in the town. It is dedicated to a female saint, St. Multose, or Multosia, and is said to have been built by her in the fourteenth century. The church is cruciform in plan, with a curiously shaped tower at the west end. Its upper stage is of smaller dimensions than the lower portion, and it terminates in a broach spire. Kinsale itself is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of the river Bandon, and has a quaint appearance, with houses rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock, some perched on projecting crags. Many of these houses are evidently of Spanish origin. The streets follow the windings of the river. The ruins of the old fort, deemed impregnable until it fell into the hands of Marlborough in 1690, add to the outlook. There is a public walk shaded by trees around Compass Hill, commanding views of the harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove, and the entire neighbourhood. Kinsale was formerly governed under a charter of Edward III by a sovereign and other officials. The Spaniards frequently captured and held the place for longer or shorter periods, and it took part in all the struggles between the Saxons and the native Irish, from the time when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes of the last of the Stuarts. James II landed at Kinsale in 1689 to commence the campaign that ended disastrously for him at the Boyne. For centuries Kinsale was the most important port on the coast, and though it has long since given way to Queenstown, its harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it remains the headquarters of the important fisheries of the south of Ireland.

6. Whiddy Island church ruins and O'Sullivan Bere castle

   near Whiddy Island · island or archipelago · Cork · 1422–1461

   Whiddy Island, formerly Lord Bantry's deer-park, comprises about 1,218 acres and contains relics of an old church with a cemetery. On the eastern point are ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O'Sullivan Bere.

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   formerly Lord Bantry’s deer-park, comprises an area of about 1,218 acres, and is remarkable for the diversified quality of its soil. A black shaly substance, soft and unctuous, resembling black-lead, found on the northern side, was at one time highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed medicinal qualities. There are some relics of an old church, with a cemetery attached ; and on the eastern point of the island are the ruins of a castle built in the reign of Henry VI by O’Sullivan Bere. Though apparently so near, it is almost a mile and three-quarters from Bantry.

   At Bantry, we are at the end of—

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 88

   As the companion tells it

   Whiddy Island was once Lord Bantry's deer-park, about 1,218 acres of remarkably varied soil. On its northern side, a soft, unctuous black substance resembling black-lead was once highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed medicinal powers. The island holds the relics of an old church, with a cemetery attached. On the eastern point stand the ruins of a castle, built in the reign of Henry VI by O'Sullivan Bere.

7. Kilmallock, the Baalbec of Ireland

   Kilmallock · town · Limerick

   Kilmallock is noted for its numerous ruins including old castles, churches, and spacious mansions that attest its former magnificence. These remains have earned the town the name 'the Baalbec of Ireland.'

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   Kilmalloek is noted for its numerous ruins — old castles, churches and spacious mansions, which attest its former magnificence, and have given it the name of the Baalbec of Ireland.

   At Charleville, the direct line from Cork to Limerick leaves the main line of the system.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 20

   As the companion tells it

   Kilmallock has been called the Baalbec of Ireland. The ruins give it that name, old castles, churches and spacious mansions, all standing as proof of a former magnificence.

8. Adrigole Waterfall and Hungry Hill

   Adrigole · townland · Cork

   A lofty waterfall near Adrigole, twelve miles westward from Glengariff, accompanied by Hungry Hill rising to 2,251 feet. The area offered sport for rod and gun.

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   There is the best of sport, too, for rod and gun. For those who must wander, there is the drive or walk to Lord Bantry’s Shooting Box, with its pretty demesne. A longer trip is to the lofty Adrigole Waterfall (12 miles westward), and Hungry Hill (2,251 feet).

   By cycling, or taking the mail-car, one can get as far in this direction as Castletown Bearhaven (22 miles), a tiny town with one or two good inns, chiefly known to fame in connection with autumnal naval manoeuvres. A project has been mooted for making it a Transatlantic port, and it will

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 85

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here you have the lofty Adrigole Waterfall, twelve miles west from Glengariff, with Hungry Hill rising to 2,251 feet. In the late nineteenth century this stretch offered the best of sport for rod and gun, and for walkers there was the route to Lord Bantry's Shooting Box and its pretty demesne. A traveller could also cycle or take the mail-car on toward Castletown Bearhaven, twenty-two miles along, a tiny town with one or two good inns, chiefly known for autumnal naval manoeuvres.

9. Belvelly Castle, former Hodnett seat on Great Island

   Belvelly · townland · Cork

   The remains of Belvelly Castle stand on Great Island. It was formerly a seat of the Hodnetts but now forms part of the Barry estate, like much of the surrounding land.

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   Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

   Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more convenient to regard this as a separate trip (see p. 54), and to continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

   Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 29

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here stand the remains of Belvelly Castle, on Great Island. Great Island runs five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of the castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island. Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it is more convenient to regard that as a separate trip and continue the description of the Crosshaven route. You round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have the fortifications of Spike Island on one side and the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg on the other, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

10. Bray Head panorama from Valentia Island

    near Bray Head · promontory · Kerry

    Bray Head, the most westerly point of Valentia Island, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea. From its crest one sees the Skelligs to the south, Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains to the north, and the Iveragh Mountains inland.

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    The shores are indented with bays and cliffs, and guarded by isolated rocks, against which the waves of the Atlantic surge with uncontrolled fury. Bray Head, the most westerly point, rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea, and from its lofty crest we have a glorious view. Eight miles to the south, the Skelligs loom like pyramids above the boundless ocean, and all the islands in sight have an extraordinary and abrupt outline — stern, yet picturesque. Northward we see Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains, the Great Blasket, and many lesser islands elevated over the surging waves ; some that look like batteries and castles, others that appear like Gothic houses. Inland, we behold the many-tinted inclines of the Iveragh Mountains, with their wild, serrated ridges ; and seaward, we gaze upon the mighty Atlantic, spreading into a vast horizon that seems a wall of water.

    The visitor should not leave without inspecting the lighthouse and the monument to the memory of the late Knight of Kerry, both of them built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell' s Fort, as the headland is named, a reminiscence of the fact that Noll erected forts at each end of the island, as well to safeguard the coast as to prevent the captains of hostile privateers from using the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 73

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Bray Head, the most westerly point of Valentia Island, the ground rises precipitously 792 feet above the sea. The shores are indented with bays and cliffs, and isolated rocks guard them against the Atlantic, whose waves surge with uncontrolled fury. From the crest, the view stretches in every direction. Eight miles to the south, the Skelligs loom like pyramids above the ocean, and all the islands in sight have an abrupt outline, stern yet picturesque. Northward, you can see Slea Head and the Dingle Mountains, the Great Blasket, and many lesser islands elevated over the surging waves, some looking like batteries and castles, others like Gothic houses. Inland, the Iveragh Mountains rise with their wild, serrated ridges. Seaward, the Atlantic spreads into a vast horizon that seems a wall of water. There is a lighthouse and a monument to the memory of the late Knight of Kerry, both built on wild and romantic elevations. The lighthouse stands at Cromwell's Fort, as the headland is named, a reminder that Cromwell erected forts at each end of the island to safeguard the coast and to prevent hostile privateers from using it.

11. Cloon Lake's storm-riven cliffs and wildlife

    near Cloon Lough · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Upper and Lower Cloon Lake is encircled by high, storm-riven cliffs and features a small green island where herons, wood-pigeons, wild goats, and marten cats find solitude.

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    “ Cloon Lake, Upper and Lower, is a good fishing resort. The upper end is encircled by high, storm-riven cliffs of solid stone ; and on the bosom of the lower lake rests a small green island, covered with rocks, heather, and low trees. In this solitude the heron and the wood-pigeon build their nests side by side ; and on the approach of man, the wild goat and the marten cat have been seen swimming away to the mainland.”

    Another noteworthy sheet of water in the- neighbourhood of Glencar is Acoose Lake, near to which the high-road to Killorglin passes. The mountaineer may humour his weakness from Caragh or Glencar as much as he pleases, amongst the peaks “ available ” being Carran Tual (3,414), more often ascended from Killarney (see p. 96), and, for the less ambitious, Gortnagloran (nearly 1,000 feet high) on the east side of the lake. A series of driving and boating excursions has been arranged from the Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake, at fixed prices. The drive along the road to Waterville should be taken at least as far as the Swiss-like Ballaghasheen Pass. Another fine drive is by the road southward through the Ballaghbeama Pass to Blackwater Bridge and Parknasilla (22 miles). Yet another drive, a circular one, is round the east side of Lough Caragh to Blackstones Bridge, then through Windy Gap, with its fine frontward view, to Glenbeigh.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Cloon Lough is a lake of two parts the road passes near. Upper and Lower Cloon Lake together make a good fishing resort. The upper end is encircled by high, storm-riven cliffs of solid stone. On the lower lake rests a small green island, covered with rocks, heather, and low trees. In this solitude the heron and the wood-pigeon build their nests side by side. When man approaches, the wild goat and the marten cat have been seen swimming away to the mainland.

12. Glacial lake at Lough Coomanassig

    Lough Coomanassig · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above sea level in Kerry, was hollowed out by a glacier. Lower down, a moraine blocked the valley forming a second tarn known as the eagle's lough.

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    from Kenmare to Killarney. Glacial lakes also abound in Kerry : Lough Coomanassig, 1,500 feet above the sea, is one. This basin was hollowed out by a glacier ; lower down the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn — the eagle’s lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks — one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare may be seen a huge block of Old Red Sandstone resting on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone.

    Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found ; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre are also found, and were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    Glacial lakes abound in Kerry, and Lough Coomanassig is one, 1,500 feet above the sea. The basin was hollowed out by a glacier. Lower down, the moraine blocked the valley, forming a second tarn — the eagle's lough. Ice helped to deepen, if not to form, the lakes of Killarney. Rounded and polished limestone is frequently seen, and many perched blocks — one near Dunmanway weighs some thousand tons. Near Kenmare a huge block of Old Red Sandstone rests on a limestone pillar 6 feet high, while in another direction a great block of limestone is found resting on Old Red Sandstone. Chalybeate springs are common in county Cork. Good slates are also found, and copper, but the latter cannot be profitably worked. Various coloured marbles are found; anthracite coal is worked. Lead, iron, manganese and ochre were once much more worked than now. County Cork has many caves and underground streams.

13. Killarney House and the Italian gardens of the Earl of Kenmare

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Killarney House, the Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, stands on a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by a demesne and park skirting the Lower Lake. An annual flower show is held in its Italian gardens under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare, and the Gaelic League holds its Annual Fete in the grounds.

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    The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a number of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town.

    Killarney was visited in 1897 by the present Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested at the time that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence. Indeed, it is believed that negotiations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 44

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Killarney, the private residences around the town are numerous, set in surroundings the book calls unrivalled. Killarney House stands on the crest of a hill at the west end of the town. It is the Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, surrounded by a demesne and park of vast extent that skirts the Lower Lake. In the Italian gardens of the house, a flower show is held every year under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Gaelic League also holds its Annual Fete in the grounds. Muckross House, the seat of Lord Ardilaun, is an Elizabethan mansion built in white Portland stone. It overlooks the Middle Lake and stands close to Muckross Abbey. Its grounds run to nearly 800 acres. There Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained during their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town, and from the battlements of Flesk Castle an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House sit on the western shore of the Lower Lake, while Cahernane House stands at its north-eastern end. Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years a number of pretty villas have also been erected in the neighbourhood of the town. Killarney was visited in 1897 by the Prince and Princess of Wales, who were delighted with the beauties of the lakes. It was suggested that Killarney would form an ideal spot for a royal residence, and it is believed negotiations were actually entered into for the purchase of Muckross House.

14. Maryborough Castle bastion

    Portlaoise · municipal district · Laois

    Maryborough (now Portlaoise) retains a bastion of its old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the newly conquered neighbourhood.

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    range of mountains, brings us to Maryborough, standing on a small tributary of the Barrow. Its chief attractions are a bastion of the old Castle, erected when the town was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood ; and the ruins of Dunamase Castle, at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase.

    At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line ; and Ballybrophy station (vef. room) is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon. Then we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of Munster. At Templemore we find traces of the Knights Templars who founded the town and have left an interesting relic of one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the grounds of the Abbey. The view from the carriage window westward at this spot is interesting, as in the background are the famous Devil’s-Bit Mountains. This range obtained its name from a legend that the Devil, being benighted and hungry on the summits, bit a piece out of one, but finding it too hard and tough to eat dropped it in disgust. The tourist will plainly observe a gap in part of the range, said to have been the Satanic mouthful. The “ bit,” we are told, formed the Rock of Cashel, views of which we get after passing Thurles, the seat of the Archbishop of Cashel and the site of the once great Cistercian foundation known as Holy Cross Abbey, from its having been built (1168-9) to hold a relic of the true cross. It was here, in 1850, that the famous synod assembled, which, after condemning the Queen’s Colleges as “ godless,” recommended the foundation of a Roman Catholic University for Ireland, a course adopted by Parliament in 1879. The Roman Catholic Cathedral is one of the finest structures in Ireland.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Portlaoise, known when this was written as Maryborough, it stands on a small tributary of the Barrow. The chief thing left to see is a bastion of the old Castle. It was erected when the town itself was built, and its purpose was plain. The book says it was built to overawe the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood. That single bastion is what remains of that Castle, a fragment of the structure raised to hold the place and keep the people around it in check. The same passage names another ruin nearby, the ruins of Dunamase Castle, which at one time was in the possession of Strongbow. It crowned the summit of a singularly-shaped rock, known as Dun Mall or Dunamase. So the district holds two old strongholds: the Castle bastion at Maryborough itself, raised to overawe, and the older fortress on its rock at Dunamase, once held by the man whose name is tied to the Norman coming. The town also marks a junction. At Maryborough, the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford leaves the main line. Ballybrophy station is the junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both of which open up the scenery of the Shannon. Beyond lies Tipperary and Munster.

15. Ruins of Killaha Castle, stronghold of the O'Donoghues

    Killaha · townland · Kerry

    Near the upper entrance to Glenflesk stand the ruins of Killaha Castle on a commanding site, formerly the stronghold of the O'Donoghues of the glens. Hard by are the remains of an old church.

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    should be visited by every tourist ; it lies to the south-east of the town. The most beautiful spots may easily be reached from the railway station at Headford, eight miles from Killarney ; but it is best to drive through the glen on an outside car, as in that way its features can be seen at leisure. The glen is a richly-wooded valley through which the Flesk carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen, and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of cascades over the barriers which obstruct its path. Filadown, the most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated outlaw, Owen MacCarthy ; his den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon’s Cliff. Near the upper entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the O’Donoghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the old church. The Druids’ Circles at Lissivigeen should be inspected ; and we can also visit Flesk Castle, which stands on a picturesque, wooded knoll round the base of which the river sweeps in eddying currents. An extensive panoramic view of the Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed from the castle terrace. The road home leads us past —

    Lough Guittane,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 67

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here stand the ruins of Killaha Castle, on a commanding site near the upper entrance to the glen. It was formerly the stronghold of the O'Donoghues of the glens. Hard by the castle are the remains of an old church. The glen itself is a richly-wooded valley through which the Flesk carries the surplus waters of Lough Guittane into the Lower Lake. Immense rocks project from either side, and the little stream leaps in a series of cascades over the barriers obstructing its path. Filadown, the most picturesque part of the glen, was long the retreat of a celebrated outlaw, Owen MacCarthy. His den, the Labig Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up the Demon's Cliff. The castle ruins and the old church beside them are what remain of the O'Donoghue presence in this place. The guidebook says the glen should be visited by every tourist, and it is best to drive through on an outside car, so its features can be seen at leisure. The Flesk runs through the valley below, connecting Lough Guittane to the Lower Lake.

16. Sunday's Well named after miraculous spring

    near Sunday's Well · population centre · Cork

    Sunday's Well occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward overlooking Cork city. Its name is believed to derive from a spring once thought to possess miraculous virtues; the district also contains the Cork Waterworks and several imposing public buildings.

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    which occupies the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward in a line with the river and overlooking the city. The name is supposed to be derived from a spring once believed to possess miraculous virtues. In this quarter are the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white stone dressings, that shows up so prominently is the St. Vincent’s Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum appears to be a quite desirable place of residence. Another building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison.

    39

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Sunday's Well, on the southern slope of a long hill stretching westward overlooking Cork city. The name comes from a spring once believed to have miraculous virtues. In this quarter are the Cork Waterworks and a number of imposing public buildings. The long structure of coloured brick, with white stone dressings, that shows up prominently is St. Vincent's Roman Catholic Church and Retreat. Near it is the Good Shepherd Convent. The extensive Lunatic Asylum appears to be, in the words of the old guide, "a quite desirable place of residence." Another building much in evidence is the castellated Female Prison.

17. Cashel of the Kings and cathedral ruins

    Cashel · town · Tipperary

    Cashel, known as 'Cashel of the Kings,' is an ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city of great historical interest. The ruins of the old Cathedral stand on the summit.

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    five and three-quarter miles to the south. Passengers can travel direct from Dublin to “ Cashel of the Kings ” without change of carriage. Few places in Ireland are of greater interest historically than this ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city. The ruins of the old Cathedral on the summit

    13

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 19

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming up on Cashel, a town few places in Ireland can match for historical interest. It's known as "Cashel of the Kings," an ancient but now dilapidated episcopal city. The ruins of the old Cathedral stand on the summit.

18. Dean Swift's residence at Unionhall

    Unionhall · town · Cork

    Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall.

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    Unionhall and Glandore are picturesquely situated on either side of the far-reaching islet known as Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived for a period at Unionhall. Glandore would make a charming winter resort for invalids, the climate being noticeably mild, though this characteristic distinguishes more or less the whole of the south-west of Ireland.

    Leap stands at the mouth of a small stream of the same name, of old considered the boundary between civilisation

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 89

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Unionhall, which sits with Glandore on either side of Glandore Harbour. Dean Swift lived here for a period. The climate is noticeably mild, something the guide says marks the whole south-west of Ireland.

19. Early monastery on Church Island

    Church Island · island or archipelago · Kerry

    On Church Island in Valentia Harbour are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells. These represent early Christian settlement on the island.

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    Cahirciveen, though unimportant in itself, makes a good centre for sportsmen, and even the ordinary tourist will find plenty to occupy him in the numerous walks and drives through the little known scenery of this rugged western promontory. He can make his headquarters either here or at Valentia Island. Among the interesting spots in the neighbourhood are the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More, of which the O’Connells were the hereditary constables. It is near Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west, separated from the town by the mouth of the river. Near the castle is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort (see p. 142), but not so perfect. The interior of one of the caves beneath Do.ulus Head is very lofty, and bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. On Church Island, in Valentia Harbour, are the remains of an early monastery, an oratory, and some beehive cells.

    A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O’Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 72

    As the companion tells it

    In Valentia Harbour lies Church Island, where the remains of an early monastery still stand. The site preserves an oratory and some beehive cells, traces of early Christian settlement on this rugged western coast of Kerry. The island sits near Cahirciveen, a good centre for exploring this little-known scenery, and near Valentia Island. The surrounding country holds other signs of older Ireland. At Doulus Head, a promontory to the north-west of Cahirciveen, stand the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, one of the seats of the McCarthy-More. The O'Connells were the hereditary constables of the castle. Near it is an ancient circular fort, similar to Staigue Fort but not so perfect. The caves beneath Doulus Head have an interior so lofty it bears some resemblance to that of a cathedral. A mile and a half north-east of Cahirciveen are the few remains of Carhan House, the old mansion of the O'Connell family, said to have been the birthplace of the famous statesman.

20. Great holly tree on Innisfallen

    Innisfallen · townland · Kerry

    A remarkable holly tree on Innisfallen, pointed out by guides to visitors, is thought to be the largest in Europe. The island also features a curious natural combination of ash, holly, hawthorn and ivy growing from what appears to be a single stem.

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    other islands and on the mainland, is not to be found. But one hardly misses it, for ivy, holly, laurel and evergreen oaks abound. The holly tree is extraordinarily abundant, and its bright corals and the scarlet clusters of the mountain ash are fresh and delicate as the arbutus berry. The great holly, which the guide must find for the visitor, is thought to be the largest in Europe. Another curiosity which will tempt the tourist to explore the mazes of this leafy island is a tree, or rather a combination of four trees, united so closely as to appear growing from the same stem ; they are ash, holly, hawthorn and ivy.

    The island lies about half a mile from the shore, between Ross and Rabbit Islands ; it is next in size to the former, and contains about twenty-one acres. In this small space groves of evergreens and forest-trees are disposed with such exquisite taste that walks in many directions lead through thickets of the densest foliage, by trees of enormous girth, over lawns and dells and hills ; and often the view opens through a vestibule of arching trees, through which the mountains loom with a dreamy, indescribable outline. When approaching the island in a boat the density of the underwood is such that it looks as if it were growing out of the lake.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 60

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on Innisfallen, there is a great holly tree that guides must find for visitors. It is thought to be the largest in Europe. The holly is extraordinarily abundant on the island, its bright corals and the scarlet clusters of the mountain ash as fresh and delicate as the arbutus berry. Another curiosity on this leafy island is a combination of four trees, united so closely they appear to grow from the same stem: ash, holly, hawthorn and ivy. The island lies about half a mile from the shore, between Ross and Rabbit Islands. It is next in size to Ross and contains about 21 acres. In this small space, groves of evergreens and forest trees are disposed with such exquisite taste that walks lead through thickets of the densest foliage, by trees of enormous girth, over lawns and dells and hills. Often the view opens through arching trees, through which the mountains loom with a dreamy outline. When you approach the island in a boat, the underwood is so dense it looks as if it were growing out of the lake.

21. Lord Brandon's Demesne and the Upper Lake approach

    near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The road to the Upper Lake passes through what is still known as Lord Brandon's Demesne, though it has long since passed into other hands, with a toll of a shilling. A small quay with waiting boats and a luncheon lawn marks the embarkation point onto the Upper Lake.

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    Regaining the road, we follow the course of the river, through what is still known as Lord Brandon’s Demesne, though it has long since passed into other hands. A toll of a shilling has to he paid. The road conducts us to a small quay, where we find the boats are waiting and a welcome luncheon is spread upon the lawn. In fine weather, the rest for luncheon in this delightful spot is considered by many the best part of the day. Embarking and rowing down stream, we soon find ourselves on the bosom of —

    The Upper Lake,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 65

    As the companion tells it

    The road to the Upper Lake follows the river through what is still called Lord Brandon's Demesne, though it has long since passed into other hands. A toll of a shilling has to be paid. The road brings you to a small quay, where boats are waiting and a luncheon is spread upon the lawn. In fine weather, the rest for luncheon in this spot is considered by many the best part of the day. Embarking and rowing down stream, you soon find yourself on the Upper Lake.

22. Mallow, the Bath of Ireland

    Mallow · town · Cork

    Mallow, on the banks of the Cork Blackwater, was once known as the Bath of Ireland and was a popular resort for invalids who came to drink its mineral waters. The town remains a favourite centre for anglers due to excellent fishing and convenient railway transit.

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    Leaving Buttevant and continuing our southward course, we soon reach Mallow, a noted town and an important railway junction (ref. room), on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. Passengers for Killarney should ascertain whether it is necessary to change here. At one time known as the Bath of Ireland, Mallow was a popular resort of invalids and others who came to drink the waters of its spa and to admire the scenery ; while the excellent fishing in the river and the convenience of railway transit still render it a favourite centre for anglers. The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of Clifton.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Mallow sits on the banks of the Cork Blackwater. It was once called the Bath of Ireland. Invalids came here to drink the mineral waters of its spa and to admire the scenery. The waters are said to be very similar to those of Clifton. The excellent fishing in the river still draws anglers, and the convenience of railway transit makes it a favourite centre for them. It is an important railway junction too, so if you are heading for Killarney, it is worth checking whether a change is needed here.

23. Molana Abbey and burial of Raymond le Gros

    Molana Abbey · ecclesiastical site · Waterford

    The ruins of Molana Abbey stand on the Blackwater near Templemichael. Raymond le Gros, the Norman companion-in-arms of Strongbow who founded Rincrew Castle, is said to lie buried there.

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    After passing the bridge with its five 100-feet spans, the river banks rise on either side to a considerable height. The conspicuous Rhincrew Castle, on the left, was once a preceptory of the Knights Templars, and was founded by Raymond le Gros, a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. The steamer glides past the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle ; and the ruins of Molana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros lies buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next comes into sight ; then the river widens again into a lake known as the Broad of Clashmore, and we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river extremely beautiful. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied ruins, blending with the mossy

    Kiu.irney' (/)

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    Raymond le Gros lies buried in the ruins of Molana Abbey, which stand on the Blackwater near Templemichael. He was a companion-in-arms of Strongbow. Raymond le Gros also founded Rhincrew Castle, once a preceptory of the Knights Templars. The ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle stand near Molana along the river. Beyond them the Blackwater widens into a lake called the Broad of Clashmore, with a prospect of hills, meadows, mountains, lake and river. Strancally Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, its ivied ruins blending with the mossy banks.

24. The three Lakes of Killarney and the Long Range

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Lakes of Killarney comprise the Upper, the Middle (Tore), and the Lower (Lough Leane), connected by the tortuous Long Range stream and fed by mountain streams. Sir Walter Scott praised the Long Range as finer than anything in Scotland, and Thackeray pronounced the lakes 'too handsome.'

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    The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery surrounding the famous lakes, which are three in number, known respectively as the Upper ; the Middle, or Tore ; and the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane. The lakes are connected by a tortuous stream, called the Long Range, which winds in and out in the most pleasant manner. The lakes are fed by a number of mountain streams, their surplus water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour, on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was admitted by Sir Walter Scott to be finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature ; and after exploring the lakes as recommended in the following pages, we believe most tourists will agree with Thackeray when he pronounces them “ too handsome.”

    If the visitor is pressed for time and does not fear fatigue, he may, by “ galloping over the lakes in one day,” get a glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so, he may proceed by Aghadoe ; visit Dunloe Castle, and ascend Carran Tual, descending by the Black Valley ; and return by boat through the lakes. Or he may proceed back through the Gap of Dunloe, and home by Lord Brandon’s Cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagles’ Nest, Tore and Muckross. Another one day excursion is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O’Sullivan’s Cascade, Innisfallen and Ross.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    The great draw of this part of Kerry is the scenery around the three lakes of Killarney. They are the Upper, the Middle, also called Tore, and the Lower, properly known as Lough Leane. A tortuous stream called the Long Range connects them, winding in and out between the lakes in the most pleasant manner. Mountain streams feed all three, and their surplus water drains out by the river Laune, which flows from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine Harbour on the coast of Kerry. The Long Range was something Sir Walter Scott himself admitted was finer than anything in his beloved Scottish lake district. The head of the Lower Lake and the whole of the other two are hemmed in by high mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature. After exploring them, most tourists, the guide says, will agree with Thackeray when he pronounces them, in his words, "too handsome." For anyone pressed for time who does not fear fatigue, it is possible to gallop over the lakes in one day and catch the prominent features. One route goes by Aghadoe, to Dunloe Castle, up Carran Tual, down by the Black Valley, and back by boat through the lakes. Another goes back through the Gap of Dunloe, home by Lord Brandon's Cottage, Derrycunnihy, Eagles' Nest, Tore and Muckross. A further one-day excursion runs by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the Upper Lake, visiting Dinish Island, O'Sullivan's Cascade, Innisfallen and Ross.

25. Ballynacarriga Castle ruins on a lakeside rock

    Ballynacarriga Castle · monument · Cork

    The ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle consist of a square pile of buildings standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot, visible from the railway line following the river Bandon.

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    We now follow the course of the river Bandon, and see on the right the ruins of Ballynacarriga Castle, a square pile of buildings, standing on the summit of a rock 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot.

    From Clonakilty Junction (twenty-four miles distant from Cork and four from Bandon) a short branch runs down to the sea, some nine miles distant, at

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 91

    As the companion tells it

    A square pile of ruined buildings, Ballynacarriga Castle stands on the summit of a rock, 40 feet above the level of a lake at its foot. The river Bandon flows nearby, and the railway line follows its course. Clonakilty Junction lies 24 miles from Cork and 4 from Bandon, where a short branch runs down to the sea, some 9 miles distant.

26. Castletown Bearhaven and Bear Island fortifications

    Castletownbere · town · Cork

    Castletown Bearhaven is a tiny town known for autumnal naval manoeuvres, with proposals to make it a Transatlantic port. The haven formed by Bear Island is strongly fortified.

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    certainly prove a formidable rival to Queenstown when the proposed lines to Bantry and Kenmare are constructed. The haven formed by Bear Island is strongly fortified. At the eastern or seaward entry of the haven stand the ruins of Dunboy Castle, which furnished the late Mr. J. A. Fronde with a title and some material for his novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy. The cyclist can return by the road over the Slieve Miskish Mountain to the south shore of Kenmare river, and thence eastward by way of Ardgroom and Kilmakilloge Harbours, Derreen (a seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne), and Clonee Lakes, to Kenmare, The whole round

    1 5 8 CASTLETO WN BE A RHA VEN

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 85

    As the companion tells it

    Castletown Bearhaven is a small town you are passing through, with a haven formed by Bear Island that is strongly fortified. There have been proposals to make it a Transatlantic port, rivaling Queenstown once proposed lines to Bantry and Kenmare are constructed. At the seaward entry of the haven stand the ruins of Dunboy Castle, which gave the late Mr. J. A. Froude a title and material for his novel, The Two Chiefs of Dunboy.

27. Dunloe Castle of the O'Sullivan More

    Dunloe · electoral division · Kerry

    On the return route from Carran Tual through Churchtown, travellers leave the castle of the O'Sullivan More at Dunloe on the right, an association linking the landscape to the powerful O'Sullivan sept.

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    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churchtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit— perhaps the Bishop’s palace.

    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to CummeendufT Glen — rarely visited — and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Dunloe in Kerry, this is the country of the O'Sullivan More. The old guide tells of visitors coming down from the mountain at Carran Tual, settling into their car, and directing the driver to take them home by way of Churchtown, so they might visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory they were in. They passed the castle of the O'Sullivan More at Dunloe, then reached the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore was Lake View, once the residence of James O'Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then came the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. Beyond that, the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian's ancient shrine, and the Pulpit, which was perhaps the Bishop's palace. For the more active, the guide recommends another descent, a long ridge from Carran Tual to Curraghmore with a wonderful view. A good path leads down to Cummeenduff Glen, rarely visited, and from there to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where ponies left at the Hag's Glen would be waiting.

28. Farewell to the lakes at Mulgrave Police Barracks

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    At Mulgrave Police Barracks, the tourist bids farewell to the Killarney lakes. A deep, wondrous valley holds the three lakes like sheets of silver, a scene described as an earthly paradise in summer.

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    ton tower above us. We presently reach the tunnel shown in our illustration on p. 91. At Mulgrave Police Barracks the tourist bids farewell to the lakes. “ No description/’ it has been well said, “ can convey any adequate idea of the loveliness of the scene which presents itself from this spot ; looking back towards Killarney the eye beholds a deep and wondrous valley, in the bosom of which the whole of the three lakes lie like sheets of silver. Mr. Justin PI. McCarthy thus eloquently described his impressions of Killarney, evidently with this scene in his mind : —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 81

    As the companion tells it

    This road takes you through Killarney, in Kerry. At Mulgrave Police Barracks here, the tourist bids farewell to the lakes. The guide says no description can convey any adequate idea of the loveliness of the scene from this spot. Looking back towards Killarney, the eye beholds a deep and wondrous valley, in the bosom of which the whole of the three lakes lie like sheets of silver. It is spoken of as an earthly paradise in summer.

29. Father O'Mahony, recluse at Gougane Barra

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork · 1700–1730

    In the early part of the eighteenth century, Father O'Mahony retired to the island at Gougane Barra as a recluse. His tomb, said to have been erected by himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland.

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    when Mass is celebrated in the open air. In the early part of the eighteenth century another recluse, Father O’Mahony, retired to the island, and his tomb, erected it is said by himself, is pointed out on the adjoining mainland.

    Returning to the main road, where the coach awaits us, we at once enter on the best part of the drive.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 95

    As the companion tells it

    Gougane Barra is a place the road passes through. In the early part of the eighteenth century, a recluse named Father O'Mahony retired to the island here. His tomb stands on the adjoining mainland, and it is said he erected it himself.

30. Killarney as a market town under the Earl of Kenmare

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Killarney is described as a small market town 186 miles south-west of Dublin, the property of the Earl of Kenmare. Its prosperity depends mainly on summer and autumn visitors, with boot factories and newly established rug and carpet factories providing employment.

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    Killarney is a small market town, 186 miles south-west of Dublin, forty north of Cork, and twenty-one to the southeast of Tralee. It is the property of the Earl of Kenmare, and contains some good streets, though a few of the thoroughfares are narrow and old-fashioned. Its prosperity is mainly dependent on the influx of visitors during the summer and autumn. Boot factories give employment to a number of men, and recently the establishment of two rug and carpet factories has given employment to a considerable number of girls. The town is governed by an Urban Council. The water supply is brought in pipes from the Devil’s Punch Bowl, near the summit of Mangerton. The sewage system was entirely remodelled in 1896, and is now perfect, pipes having been substituted for the old built sewers and the outfall removed over a mile from the nearest house. The town is lighted both by gas and electricity. It is very healthy, zymotic and lung diseases being practically unknown. An authority already quoted says : *“ The climate is remarkably mild and equable. During the early spring months an invalid convalescing from an attack of serious illness would

    * Irish Health Resorts and Watering Places. Dr. Edgar Flinn, Fellow and Member of Council of the British Institute of Public Health.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 43

    As the companion tells it

    Killarney is a small market town, the property of the Earl of Kenmare. It lies 186 miles south-west of Dublin, forty miles north of Cork, and twenty-one miles south-east of Tralee. The town contains some good streets, though a few of the thoroughfares are narrow and old-fashioned. Its prosperity is mainly dependent on the influx of visitors during the summer and autumn. Boot factories give employment to a number of men, and recently the establishment of two rug and carpet factories has given employment to a considerable number of girls. The town is governed by an Urban Council. It is very healthy, zymotic and lung diseases being practically unknown. An authority says: "The climate is remarkably mild and equable." The water supply is brought in pipes from the Devil's Punch Bowl, near the summit of Mangerton. The sewage system was entirely remodelled in 1896, and is now perfect, pipes having been substituted for the old built sewers and the outfall removed over a mile from the nearest house. The town is lighted both by gas and electricity.

31. Mountain Stage's coaching history

    Mountain Stage · man-made feature · Kerry

    Mountain Stage takes its name from having been the stage-house in the days of cars and coaches. It sits on a piece of genuine mountain railway over 400 feet above the sea.

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    Leaving Glenbeigh, the line ascends and comes quite close to the coast, and we have superb views on the right of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty mountains. We continue to ascend, and at Mountain Stage (so named from its having been the stage-house in the not very remote days of cars and coaches) we are on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more than 400 feet above the sea. The line presently turns inland to Kells (a small hamlet merely, and not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland). A long descent brings us to —

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    As the companion tells it

    Mountain Stage takes its name from having been the stage-house in the days of cars and coaches. It sits on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more than 400 feet above the sea. The line ascends from Glenbeigh and comes close to the coast, with views of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty mountains. From Mountain Stage the line presently turns inland to Kells, a small hamlet, not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland.

32. Mount Owen, source of three rivers

    Mullaghmesha · townland · Cork

    Mount Owen (1,762 feet), prominent to the northward after passing Durrus Road station, is the source of three rivers flowing in opposite directions: the Bandon reaching the sea at Kinsale, the Ilen below Skibbereen, and the Mealagh into Bantry Bay.

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    a line which connects the town with Cork and which, by means of its branches and affiliations, opens up communication with the principal harbours in the much-indented coast of South-West Ireland. The line has a connection with the quay at Bantry, a very useful addition to the commercial conveniences of the town. The carriages on the line are roomy and comfortable, and the saloons are so arranged that the views on either side can be fully enjoyed. The prominent hill to northward, after passing the small station of Durrus Road, is Mount Owen (1,762 feet), the source of three rivers, which flow in opposite directions — the Bandon falling into the sea at Kinsale, the lien below Skibbereen, and the Mealagh into Bantry Bay.

    Drimoleague is the junction for the Skibbereen and Baltimore line. The break of journey is somewhat inconvenient, but there is a good deal to interest the tourist in this almost unexplored corner of Erin. Skibbereen is, in its turn, the

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 88

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Mullaghmesha rises Mount Owen, a hill of 1,762 feet. It is the source of three rivers, which flow in opposite directions. The Bandon falls into the sea at Kinsale. The Ilen passes below Skibbereen. The Mealagh flows into Bantry Bay. The guidebook that records this notes the hill as prominent to the northward after passing the small station of Durrus Road, and describes the railway carriages as roomy and comfortable, their saloons arranged so the views on either side can be fully enjoyed. The same line connects the town with Cork and, through its branches and affiliations, opens communication with the principal harbours of the much-indented coast of south-west Ireland. There is a connection with the quay at Bantry, called a useful addition to the commercial conveniences of the town. All of that surrounds the single fact of the mountain and its three waters, dividing as they leave the summit.

33. Parknasilla – former Bishop of Limerick residence

    Parknasilla · sub-townland · Kerry

    Parknasilla is a health resort whose demesne was formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick. A commodious hotel was erected in the grounds, which cover about a hundred acres and include several islets connected by rustic bridges.

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    In the demesne, formerly the residence of the Bishop of Limerick, has been erected a tasteful and commodious hotel (under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Co.), to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers are making this place their headquarters. It is usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds, the original residence and the fine new building. The grounds cover about a hundred acres, and include several islets connected by rustic bridges.

    The situation of Parknasilla is delightful. It stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill (895 feet), with wooded hills rising all around, the romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it “ one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough,” and frankly owns that “ to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us.” On the important subject of climate a writer in the Dublin Journal of Medical Science says of Parknasilla : —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 78

    As the companion tells it

    Once the residence of the Bishop of Limerick, Parknasilla's demesne now holds a tasteful and commodious hotel, built to accommodate the tourists who in increasing numbers make it their headquarters. It is usual to stop at Parknasilla for the night, and the unhurried tourist is likely to remain longer. There are really two hotels in different parts of the grounds: the original residence and the fine new building. Both stand under the control of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company. The grounds cover about a hundred acres and include several islets connected by rustic bridges. The situation is delightful. Parknasilla stands in a nook between the bay and Knockanamadane Hill, 895 feet high, with wooded hills rising all around and a romantic, broken coast studded with little tree-covered islets. Mr. Ward calls it "one of a little group of marine paradises on an inlet of the great sea lough," and frankly owns that "to describe the beauty of the spot is beyond us."

34. St. Patrick's Bridge: History and Dimensions

    Cork · city · Cork · 1798–1859

    St. Patrick's Bridge in Cork dates from 1859 and is notably broad. It occupies the site of an older structure erected in 1798 that was destroyed by a flood in 1853.

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    The streets are spacious, but of irregular formation — a state of things attributable to their having been originally erected on the banks of the streams which separated the islands (now united), the opposite sides of which were connected by bridges. As Macaulay puts it : “ The city extended over about onetenth part of the space which it now covers, and was intersected by muddy streams, which have long been concealed by arches and buildings. A desolate marsh, in which the sportsman who pursued the waterfowl sank deep in water and mire at every step, covered the area now occupied by stately buildings, the palaces of great commercial societies.” As a reference to our plan will show, the central portion of the city is connected with those parts on the banks of the Lee by numerous bridges, the chief of which are St. Patrick’s and the Parnell Bridges. The latter, formerly known as the Anglesea Bridge, was rebuilt in 1882, and re-named, as we have said, in honour of the then senior member for the city. St. Patrick’s Bridge is remarkable as being broader than any bridge which spans the Thames except Westminster, the new structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London Bridge ; it is over 60 feet within the parapets. The bridge dates from 1859, and occupies the site of an older structure erected in 1798, and destroyed by flood in 1853. These two bridges are indirectly connected by three of the widest and best streets in Cork — St. Patrick’s Street, the Grand Parade, and the South Mall ; and directly by the Merchants’ Quay, on the south bank of the North River, and Warren’s Place, which rivals in width and regularity the three streets already mentioned.

    The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for many years the only means of communication with the surrounding country. The bridges are connected by North and

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Cork grew up across islands and streams, its streets spacious but irregular because of the ground they were built on. The city once covered a tenth of the space it now fills. Muddy streams ran through it, now hidden under arches and buildings. Macaulay called the area a desolate marsh where a sportsman sank deep in water and mire at every step. St. Patrick's Bridge is one of the chief bridges spanning the River Lee, connecting the central portion of the city with the areas on its banks. It is a remarkably broad bridge, wider than any bridge over the Thames except Westminster, the new structure at Vauxhall, and the recently widened London Bridge. It measures over 60 feet within the parapets. The bridge you pass near dates from 1859. It stands on the site of an older bridge erected in 1798, which a flood destroyed in 1853. The other chief bridge is the Parnell Bridge, once called the Anglesea Bridge, rebuilt in 1882 and renamed for the then senior member representing the city. Three of the widest and best streets in Cork connect these bridges: St. Patrick's Street, the Grand Parade, and the South Mall. The Merchants' Quay on the south bank of the North River and Warren's Place join them directly. Further west, the Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee on the site of an old fortified bridge and gate. Opposite it, the Southgate Bridge spans the southern branch, and for years these two were the only ways in and out of the city.

35. Aghadoe Ruins and St Finian's shrine

    Aghadoe · parish · Kerry

    Returning from Carran Tual via Churchtown, visitors pass the Aghadoe Ruins, identified as St Finian's ancient shrine and the Pulpit—perhaps the Bishop's palace—near Aghadoe House and a Catholic church on the road to Killarney.

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    In this way the foot of the mountain is reached, and having duly rewarded the guides we again seat ourselves in the car, and desire the driver to take us home by Churchtown, in order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the O’Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge. On the shore we see Lake View, at one time the residence of James O’Connell, brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Catholic Church, near Aghadoe House. On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian’s ancient shrine, and the Pulpit— perhaps the Bishop’s palace.

    For those who are a little more active a third descent may be recommended. It is possible to cross by a long ridge, showing a wonderful view, from Carran Tual to Curraghmore. Here a good path leads down to CummeendufT Glen — rarely visited — and from thence visitors can pass to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage, where they will have arranged that the ponies which they left at the Hag’s Glen shall be waiting for them.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 57

    As the companion tells it

    The road here passes through Aghadoe, a parish in Kerry on the road to Killarney. Travellers coming from Carran Tual by way of Churchtown pass a Catholic church near Aghadoe House, and the Aghadoe Ruins, identified as Saint Finian's ancient shrine and the Pulpit, which may have been the Bishop's palace. The guide describes the approach: leaving the castle of the O'Sullivan More at Dunloe, reaching the Cahirciveen road at Beaufort Bridge, and passing on the shore Lake View, at one time the residence of James O'Connell, brother of the great statesman. The ruins themselves are named only as Saint Finian's shrine and the Pulpit, with the suggestion that the latter was perhaps the Bishop's palace. No further detail is given about what remains. For those returning from the mountains, the guide notes an alternative route across a long ridge from Carran Tual to Curraghmore, down through Cummeenduff Glen, rarely visited, and on to the far end of the Gap of Dunloe by Gap Cottage.

36. Clarke's Bridge Built of Red Clay-Slate

    Cork · city · Cork · 1726

    Clarke's Bridge in Cork spans the South River and connects Wandesford Quay with Hanover Street. It was constructed in 1726 using red clay-slate.

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    Clarke’s Bridge and Parliament Bridge also span the South River. The former, which connects Wandesford Quay with Hanover Street, was built in 1726, of red clay-slate ; and the latter, a handsome structure, of one broad arch with open parapets, built of the hewn limestone so much in favour in the city, connects the South Mall with Sullivan’s Quay. The student of bridges can do very well at Cork. Not only has he within a small area no less than nine examples, but there is such a pleasing diversity in the styles that he can hardly fail to be instructed and edified.

    This diversity in the matter of bridges is equalled, if not excelled, by the diversity of the buildings. A most noticeable peculiarity of Cork is its absolute want of uniformity, and the striking contrasts in colour of the houses. The stone of which the houses in the northern suburbs is built is of a reddish brown — that 011 the south of a cold gray tint. Some are constructed of red brick, some of brown brick, some are sheathed in slate, some whitewashed, some reddened, some yellowed. The most conspicuous steeple in the place, that of St. Ann’s, Shandon, is actually red two sides and white the others.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the road brings you near Clarke's Bridge, which spans the South River and connects Wandesford Quay with Hanover Street. It was built in 1726 of red clay-slate. A student of bridges can do very well at Cork. Within a small area there are no less than nine examples, and such a pleasing diversity in the styles that one can hardly fail to be instructed and edified. Parliament Bridge also spans the South River, a handsome structure of one broad arch with open parapets, built of the hewn limestone so much in favour in the city, connecting the South Mall with Sullivan's Quay. This diversity in the matter of bridges is equalled, if not excelled, by the diversity of the buildings. A most noticeable peculiarity of Cork is its absolute want of uniformity, and the striking contrasts in colour of the houses. The stone of which the houses in the northern suburbs is built is of a reddish brown, that on the south of a cold gray tint. Some are constructed of red brick, some of brown brick, some are sheathed in slate, some whitewashed, some reddened, some yellowed. The most conspicuous steeple in the place, that of St. Ann's, Shandon, is actually red two sides and white the others.

37. Colman's Eye promontory and the Long Range strait

    near Upper Lake · lake or lakes · Kerry

    Colman's Eye is the promontory marking the extremity of the Lower Lake where the strait called the Long Range begins. A cluster of fantastically shaped rocks there prompts guides to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef, and other objects.

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    MacCarthy More’s Island is one of the first islands passed. It is luxurious with evergreens, amongst which Lebanon cedars thrive. Then comes Ronayne’s Island, where may be had some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been at one time frequented by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands are so called from the woods that cover them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman’s Eye is the promontory which marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us to trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef and many other things. Still winding through scenes of loveliness, we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed — the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, the clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters. We soon reach —

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    As the companion tells it

    Upper Lake is a place of wooded islands and still water. Moving across it, the islands come in turn. MacCarthy More's Island is thick with evergreens where Lebanon cedars thrive. Ronayne's Island offers some of the finest views of the lake. Eagle Island is reputed to have been frequented at one time by birds of that description. Oak and Juniper Islands take their names from the woods covering them. Arbutus Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing here with marked luxuriance. Colman's Eye is the promontory marking the extremity of the Lower Lake, where the strait called the Long Range begins. Here there is a cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help you trace resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round of beef, and many other things. Beyond that, the water winds through scenes of loveliness, a placid stream above whose wooded shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is a richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light of these latitudes not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects of beauty appear as we proceed, the luxury of woods and the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves, clouds passing over the summits casting long shadows on the waters.

38. County Lunatic Asylum overlooking Killarney scenery

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The County Lunatic Asylum stands on high ground to the north of Killarney, commanding an uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district. It is listed among the town's principal public buildings alongside the Police Barracks, Courthouse, Town Hall, and Union Workhouse.

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    the privilege of entry on the introduction of a member. The Total Abstinence Society occupies a spacious building, which visitors may view. The County Lunatic Asylum, standing on the high ground to the north of the town, commands an uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district. These, with the pretentious castellated Police Barracks, the Courthouse, the Town Hall, and the Union Workhouse complete the list of public buildings.

    The private residences in the vicinity of Killarney are numerous and worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the magnificent Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, adorns the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its splendid demesne and park of vast extent, skirting the Lower Lake. In the exquisite Italian gardens of the house a flower show is annually held, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in the grounds. Muckross House (the seat of Lord Ardilaun), an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooks the Middle Lake, and is close to Muckross Abbey. The grounds are nearly 800 acres in extent. Here Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of the former an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are situated on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. The picturesque Park House takes its name from the Deer Park in which it stands, embowered in magnificent and aged trees. The grounds of all these residences are laid out with admirable taste and command delightful prospects. In recent years also a number of pretty villas have been erected in the neighbourhood of the town.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 44

    As the companion tells it

    Killarney is a town of public buildings and grand private residences. Among the public buildings, the County Lunatic Asylum stands on high ground to the north of the town, commanding an uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district. The guide lists it alongside the castellated Police Barracks, the Courthouse, the Town Hall, and the Union Workhouse as the principal public buildings of Killarney. A Total Abstinence Society also occupies a spacious building, which visitors may view on the introduction of a member. The private residences near the town are numerous and described as worthy of their unrivalled environment. Killarney House, the Irish home of the Earl of Kenmare, sits on the crest of a hill at the west end of the town, surrounded by its demesne and park, which skirts the Lower Lake. In the Italian gardens of the house a flower show is held annually, under the presidency of the Countess of Kenmare. The Annual Fete, under the auspices of the Gaelic League, is also held in those grounds. Muckross House, the seat of Lord Ardilaun, is an Elizabethan mansion in white Portland stone, overlooking the Middle Lake and close to Muckross Abbey. Its grounds are nearly 800 acres. Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort were entertained there on their visit to the lakes in 1861. Flesk Castle and Southhill House occupy elevated positions a little to the south of the town. From the battlements of Flesk Castle an extensive view of the lakes may be obtained. Lake View House and Aghadoe House are on the western shore of the Lower Lake, and Cahernane House at its north-eastern end. Park House stands in the Deer Park, embowered in aged trees. In recent years a number of pretty villas have also been erected near the town.

39. Glenbeigh and its origin at the River Beigh

    Glenbeigh · town · Kerry

    Glenbeigh is a promising watering-place named from its location at the mouth of the river Beigh, which rises in the stern crag-surrounded loughs of Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw, and Coomnacronia.

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    is a promising little watering-place, with a good hotel, golf links, and a fine strand for bathing. Glenbeigh takes its name from its situation at the mouth of the river Beigh, which rises some five miles south-westward in the stern cragsurrounded loughs known as Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw, and Coomnacronia. Coomasharn is certainly worth a visit, on account of the great precipices which overhang it. At Glenbeigh a rug and carpet industry has recently been started.

    Leaving Glenbeigh, the line ascends and comes quite close to the coast, and we have superb views on the right of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty mountains. We continue to ascend, and at Mountain Stage (so named from its having been the stage-house in the not very remote days of cars and coaches) we are on a piece of genuine mountain railway, more than 400 feet above the sea. The line presently turns inland to Kells (a small hamlet merely, and not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland). A long descent brings us to —

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 71

    As the companion tells it

    Glenbeigh is a small watering-place, with a good hotel, golf links, and a fine strand for bathing. It takes its name from where it sits, at the mouth of the river Beigh. That river rises some five miles south-westward, in the stern crag-surrounded loughs known as Coomasharn, Coomaglaslaw, and Coomnacronia. Coomasharn is certainly worth a visit, on account of the great precipices which overhang it. A rug and carpet industry has recently been started here as well. Leaving Glenbeigh, the railway line ascends and comes quite close to the coast, with superb views of Dingle Bay and its background of lofty mountains. The climb continues to Mountain Stage, so named from its having been the stage-house in the days of cars and coaches. It stands more than 400 feet above the sea, a genuine piece of mountain railway. The line then turns inland to Kells, a small hamlet, not to be confused with the several other Kells in Ireland.

40. Great Island, formerly Barrymore Island

    near Great Island · townland · Cork

    Great Island measures five miles east to west and two miles south to north. It was formerly known as Barrymore Island and features occasional martello towers along its circuit.

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    Great Island is five miles from east to west and two from south to north. The circuit of the island may be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle, formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, part of the Barry estate. Great Island was at one time known as Barrymore Island.

    Leaving Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeds in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, but it will be more convenient to regard this as a separate trip (see p. 54), and to continue the description of the Crosshaven route. We round the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently have on the right the fortifications of Spike Island (p. 48) and on the left the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies Great Island, five miles from east to west and two miles from south to north. It was at one time known as Barrymore Island. The circuit of the island could be made from Queenstown in a drive or cycle ride of about two hours. The views along the way are varied and pleasing, but nothing calls for remark except the occasional martello towers and the remains of Belvelly Castle. That castle was formerly a seat of the Hodnetts, but now, like much of the land hereabouts, it is part of the Barry estate. From Queenstown, one service of vessels proceeded in a south-easterly direction to Aghada, or the Crosshaven route could be taken instead. That route rounds the ugly but useful Spit Light, and presently the fortifications of Spike Island appear, along with the queer-shaped promontory of Corkbeg, which bids fair one day to add another island to the already numerous archipelago in the harbour.

41. Inchigeelagh angling village

    Inchigeelagh · townland · Cork

    Inchigeelagh, ten miles from Macroom and thirty-four from Cork, is mostly resorted to by anglers. Trout are plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers, and boats can be hired at sixpence an hour.

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    At Inchigeela ( Lake Hotel) a halt is called. We are now ten miles from Macroom, and thirty- four from Cork. The village is mostly resorted to by anglers, trout being plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers. Boats can be hired at sixpence an hour.

    Leaving Inchigeela, we commence the second section of the drive. It is a noteworthy feature of this route that it presents a sample of almost every kind of scenery. Macroom to Inchigeela is chiefly interesting for the prospect ahead ; Inchigeela to Gougane Barra for the soft loveliness of the lakes ; Gougane Barra and Keimaneigh for stern, rugged, mountain scenery ; Keimaneigh to Glengariff for the fine distant seascapes and mountain backgrounds. Five miles after leaving Inchigeela village we have, close to the road, a chain of no less than six lakes or “ broads,” the largest of which is Lough Allua. The lakes are really an expansion of the Lee. With their fringe of rushes, white water-lilies and setting of firs, the waters are distinctly picturesque, though they lack the overshadowing heights which give to the lakes of Cumberland and Westmorland so much of their grandeur. The curiously shaped height to the left, which has been for some time conspicuous, is the Sheehy Mountain (1,747 feet). The mountains now close in on either side, and three miles westward of the hamlet of Ballingeary, we stop at Gougane Barra cross-roads, twenty miles from Macroom.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the village of Inchigeelagh, where a halt is called at the Lake Hotel. We are ten miles from Macroom and thirty-four from Cork. The village is mostly resorted to by anglers. Trout are plentiful in the neighbouring lakes and rivers, and boats can be hired at sixpence an hour. Leaving Inchigeelagh, we commence the second section of the drive. It is a noteworthy feature of this route that it presents a sample of almost every kind of scenery. Macroom to Inchigeelagh is chiefly interesting for the prospect ahead. Inchigeelagh to Gougane Barra for the soft loveliness of the lakes. Gougane Barra and Keimaneigh for stern, rugged, mountain scenery. Keimaneigh to Glengariff for the fine distant seascapes and mountain backgrounds. Five miles after leaving Inchigeelagh village, close to the road, a chain of no less than six lakes or broads, the largest of which is Lough Allua. The lakes are really an expansion of the Lee. With their fringe of rushes, white water-lilies and setting of firs, the waters are distinctly picturesque, though they lack the overshadowing heights which give to the lakes of Cumberland and Westmorland so much of their grandeur. The curiously shaped height which has been for some time conspicuous is Sheehy Mountain, 1,747 feet. The mountains close in on either side, and three miles westward of the hamlet of Ballingeary, we stop at Gougane Barra cross-roads, twenty miles from Macroom.

42. Kildare round tower and restored cathedral

    Kildare · town · Kildare

    The town of Kildare is overlooked by a round tower 132 feet high on a ridge. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at a cost of £12,000.

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    The town of Kildare is half concealed from the railway by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower, 132 feet high. The ancient Cathedral has recently been restored at a cost of ;£ 12,000.

    A branch line runs off to the west from Portarlington ( refreshment room at station), chiefly through the famous Bog of Allen, to Tullamore and Athlone, where it connects with the Midland Great Western Railway.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Kildare lies half concealed from the railway by a ridge. On the summit of that ridge rises a round tower, 132 feet high. The ancient Cathedral here has recently been restored at a cost of 12,000 pounds.

43. Lough Leane name derived from religious houses

    near Lough Leane · lake or lakes · Kerry

    The Lower Lake's proper name is Lough Leane, meaning 'the lake of learning,' probably derived from the three religious establishments that once stood on its shores.

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    The Lower Lake is more than five miles long by three wide ; its proper name is Lough Leane (“ the lake of learning ”), probably derived from the fact that there were three religious establishments on its shores. We first visit —

    Ross Island,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 58

    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Leane, the proper name of the Lower Lake. It runs more than 5 miles long and 3 miles wide. The name means the lake of learning, probably because there were three religious establishments on its shores.

44. Red deer wild only at Killarney

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    Red deer are found wild only at Killarney, and elk were once present there as well, making the district zoologically notable.

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    Zoology. — Red deer are now found wild only at Killarney. Elk were once there. The zoology of the Kerry district is specially interesting, both fauna and flora having apparently a Spanish or Portuguese origin, hence they are called Lusitanian — the former name of the Roman province now Portugal. A black slug with yellow spots is found only in the south-west of Ireland and Portugal — nowhere else in the world. Other molluscs have a similar origin, but two are peculiar to Kenmare. Other very rare creatures may be found in this region, a dark wood-mouse, etc. But the district also contains North American and Arctic forms of life — fresh-water sponge, certain beetles, butterflies, etc. The great wolf spider, the large grasshopper, and the clear-wing moth are all found here, and many rare insects.

    Botany. — Here also a Lusitanian origin may be seen in many specimens, for Mediterranean or Pyrenean flowering plants are found, as well as some American. Some of the semi-tropical mosses, etc., are found nowhere else in Europe, possibly the Gulf Stream has carried them over. It is

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 97

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through or near Killarney, the district holds a distinction that belongs to no other place in these islands. Red deer are found wild here, and only here. Elk were once there too, though they are long gone. What makes the Kerry district zoologically notable is not just the deer. The fauna and flora have what is called a Lusitanian origin, meaning they share their roots with Spain and Portugal, the old Roman province of Lusitania. A black slug with yellow spots is found only in the south-west of Ireland and in Portugal, and nowhere else in the world. Other molluscs have a similar origin, but two are peculiar to Kenmare. The district also holds North American and Arctic forms of life, such as fresh-water sponge, certain beetles, and butterflies. The great wolf spider, the large grasshopper, and the clear-wing moth are all found here, along with many rare insects. Mediterranean and Pyrenean flowering plants grow here too, and some semi-tropical mosses are found nowhere else in Europe.

45. Rocky Island ammunition store

    near Rocky Island · townland · Cork

    Rocky Island, lying to the south of Haulbowline, is principally used for the storage of ammunition.

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    At Monkstown the railway until recently ended, but the extension to Crosshaven is now complete, and the traveller bound for that place can keep his seat instead of having to change from train to steamer. Many passengers, however, if not pressed for time, still prefer to complete the journey by steamer, via Queenstown, as this affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. On leaving Monkstown, the Queensland steamer heads westward round White’s Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island. We have an excellent opportunity of seeing Haulbowline Island, and may even, if the tide permits, call at its pier, though an order must be obtained from the authorities before this and neighbouring islands can be visited. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress. Rocky Island, to the south, is principally used for the storage of ammunition. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour. We see it to better advantage after leaving Queenstown.

    Queenstown.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Rocky Island, ammunition is stored, the island lying to the south of Haulbowline. Haulbowline is a most important naval dockyard and military station, and extensive works are still in progress there. An order must be obtained from the authorities before Haulbowline and its neighbouring islands can be visited. The Queenstown steamer from Monkstown heads westward round White's Point for the channel between Great Island and Haulbowline Island, giving an excellent opportunity of seeing the harbour. The railway extension to Crosshaven is now complete, so the traveller bound for that place can keep a seat instead of changing from train to steamer. Still, many passengers prefer the steamer via Queenstown, as it affords an opportunity of seeing the Harbour. Spike Island, or Fort Westmoreland, still further south, is the largest of the group. It was formerly a convict station, and many of the government works were executed by convict labour.

46. Round Hill ancient stronghold near Lismore

    Lismore · town · Waterford

    An ancient stronghold known as the Round Hill stands near Lismore. Its former name, 'the great fort,' is the origin of the name Lismore, borne by the neighbouring town.

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    The road on the south side of the river affords most delightful views of the opposite and more wooded part of the valley. The tourist who makes it his choice must cross Cappoquin Bridge and then turn to the right. At the end of a mile he will be at the brink of the river, just opposite Salterbridge House, and for the next mile and a half will travel by the side of the stream. When he gets abreast of a wooded islet, he will find that the road turns to the left, while on the right is the Round Hill, an ancient stronghold formerly known by the name now borne by the neighbouring town — Lismore, the great fort. At the end of another quarter of a mile the traveller must bear to the right, and then a straight mile or so lies between him and —

    Lismore,

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Lismore, there is an ancient stronghold nearby known as the Round Hill. Its older name was the great fort. That name, Lismore, was carried by the neighbouring town. The old Irish words meant exactly that: the great fort. So the town took its name from this stronghold, and the stronghold itself took a simpler name in later times. What remains now is the Round Hill, and the town of Lismore beside it, still holding the meaning of the place in its name.

47. The Tunnel: arch cut through rock on Upper Lake road

    Killarney · town · Kerry

    The Tunnel is an arch cut through an enormous rock, under which the road passes. From the top one of the finest views of the Upper Lake is obtained, with the Reeks, Black Valley, and Gap of Dunloe visible.

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    an arch cut through an enormous rock, under which the road passes. From the top one of the finest views of the Upper Lake is obtained. The background to this picture is formed by the rugged summits of the Reeks — Carran Tual rising like a dome above the crowded panorama ; while before us are the Black Valley and the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe. Opposite is the Doogary River, and we see its waters flashing down the furrows of the Purple Mountain. Every description of scenery meets the eye. There are precipices crowned with pines ; naked rocks, rent, seamed and broken, jut darkly into the waters ; and there are precipitous slopes strewn with detached masses of rock, bald and barren, or covered with purple heather or fresh sward. There are islands clad with foliage, and winding shores lined with evergreens, alternating with stately forest-trees.

    About a mile further on, we cross the Galways River, close to the Derrycunnihy Cascade. To visit it, we take a byepath ; and long before seeing the fall hear its reverberations. Surrounded by some of the choicest scenery in Killarney, the cataract is exceedingly fine. It plunges down a deep mountain chasm, amid rocks which tear the waters into torrents that fall shivering on to lower rocks.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    As the road passes through Killarney, it goes through an arch cut into an enormous rock. That arch is called the Tunnel. From the top of it, one of the finest views of the Upper Lake opens out before you. The rugged summits of the Reeks form the background, with Carran Tual rising like a dome above the crowded panorama. The Black Valley and the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe lie before us. Opposite, the Doogary River comes flashing down the furrows of the Purple Mountain. Every description of scenery meets the eye. There are precipices crowned with pines. Naked rocks, rent, seamed and broken, jut darkly into the waters. Precipitous slopes are strewn with detached masses of rock, bald and barren, or covered with purple heather or fresh sward. There are islands clad with foliage, and winding shores lined with evergreens, alternating with stately forest-trees. About a mile further on, the road crosses the Galways River, close to the Derrycunnihy Cascade. A byepath leads to the fall, and long before seeing it you hear its reverberations. The cataract plunges down a deep mountain chasm, amid rocks that tear the waters into torrents falling shivering on to lower rocks.

48. Trabolgan, seat of Lord Fermoy

    Trabolgan · townland · Cork

    Trabolgan is noted as a seat of Lord Fermoy, situated along the coach route from Aghada to Roche's Point. The route affords excellent views of the harbour.

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    The coach trip (a), to Roche’s Point, etc., affords excellent views of the harbour, and is breezy and exhilarating. Trabolgan is a seat of Lord Fermoy. Roche’s Point Lighthouse, familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for homeward-bound vessels.

    The route ( b ), in the other direction, requires rather more notice. We skirt the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney,. but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne (5^miles from Aghada) a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral, and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high, and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 1 1|- feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into six storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, and of an uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than a hundred in Ireland, and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Trabolgan, a seat of Lord Fermoy. The coach route from Aghada to Roche's Point passes this way, and it affords excellent views of the harbour. The guide calls the trip breezy and exhilarating. Roche's Point Lighthouse, familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for homeward-bound vessels. The route in the other direction skirts the harbour as far as Rostellan Castle, with its beautiful woods and grounds, to which visitors are freely admitted on Wednesdays. The drive onward to Cloyne and Ballycotton cannot for a moment be compared with the drives about Killarney, but it is pretty, and for cyclists the roads are distinctly good. Castlemary, a mile or so from Cloyne, possesses an interesting Druidical cromlech. At Cloyne, 5 miles from Aghada, a halt is made and tickets collected. The town is remarkable for its famous Round Tower, which adjoins the Cathedral and is in good preservation. It was originally 92 feet high and, like others of its class, had a conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry, the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired, and a battlement, which increases the height to 102 feet, placed round the top. The door is 11 feet from the ground, and the interior is divided into 6 storeys. The tower is cylindrical from top to bottom, of a uniform diameter of 9 feet. The walls are 33 inches thick. The origin and use of these towers, of which there are more than 100 in Ireland and scarcely any elsewhere, is a question which has long puzzled antiquaries, but Dr. Petrie is named in the passage, though it breaks off before his conclusion is given.

49. Voyage to the Skelligs from Valentia

    near Skellig Rock Great · townland · Kerry

    Excursions by steam launch from Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee carry visitors through the channel inside Valentia Island, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay, then past the Hog Islands, Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, and Molans. These islands are remarkable for their stern wildness.

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    One of the most interesting excursions the tourist can make, if the weather favours, is along the iron-bound coast of Kerry, keeping as close under the land as safety will permit. Apply to proprietor of Royal Hotel for particulars of trips by steam launch. The voyager beholds a panorama of indescribable magnificence. It is at the outer points and headlands that the grandest features of Kerry scenery are found, and these are missed by the tourist who visits them only by land. Leaving Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee, as the case may be, we are carried through the somewhat tortuous navigation of the channel inside the island of Valentia, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay. Our exit to the ocean is under the massive and lofty cliffs of Portmagee ; and then we thread our way through the Hog Islands — Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, Molans, and many others, remarkable for their stern wildness. Some of the largest are wildernesses of bog and rock, green with mosses, ferns, lichens, and lowgrowing plants that require constant moisture for their support ; but without a tree or shrub of any kind. The Calf is the most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Kenmare. Two others are known as the Bull and Cow from their supposed resemblance to those animals.

    The Skelligs

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 74

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies one of the most interesting excursions the tourist can make along the iron-bound coast of Kerry, if the weather favours. A steam launch carries you through the somewhat tortuous navigation of the channel inside Valentia Island, crossing Foilhomurrum Bay. The voyager beholds a panorama of indescribable magnificence. It is at the outer points and headlands that the grandest features of Kerry scenery are found, and these are missed by the tourist who visits them only by land. Leaving Cahirciveen, Knightstown, or Portmagee, the exit to the ocean is under the massive and lofty cliffs of Portmagee. Then you thread your way through the Hog Islands, Puffin, the Lemon Rock, the two Skelligs, Molans, and many others, remarkable for their stern wildness. Some of the largest are wildernesses of bog and rock, green with mosses, ferns, lichens, and low-growing plants that require constant moisture for their support, but without a tree or shrub of any kind. The Calf is the most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of the great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Kenmare. Two others are known as the Bull and Cow from their supposed resemblance to those animals.

50. Clondalkin round tower

    near Clondalkin · town · Dublin

    Clondalkin is noted for possessing one of the most complete round towers in Ireland, visible from the railway line between Dublin and Killarney.

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    THE point of departure from Dublin to the South of Ireland is the Kingsbridge terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, at the western end of the city. Leaving Kingsbridge Station, we skirt the famous Phoenix Park, and pass in succession Clondalkin, where may be seen one of the most perfect of the many round towers in Ireland ; Lucan, noted for its mineral spring and its strawberry beds ; and Hazlehatch. The latter affords access to the town of Celbridge, near which is the abbey of the same name, a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa in his poem of “ Cadenus and Vanessa.”

    Our onward journey is through pretty country, At Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon and so forms a waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Then we see the Hill of Allen, rising to a height of three hundred feet from the Bog of Allen. Newbridge is the station for the Curragh of Kildare, a vast common belonging to the Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here in 1853. The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle, and is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    The road takes you through Clondalkin, a place that holds one of the most complete round towers in Ireland. The guidebooks for travellers heading south from Dublin have long noted it, standing as a marker for those leaving the city behind. The old Great Southern and Western Railway line ran out from Kingsbridge terminus at the western end of Dublin, skirted the famous Phoenix Park, and then passed Clondalkin in succession before reaching Lucan and Hazlehatch. The tower here was singled out as one of the most perfect of the many round towers found across Ireland. Beyond Clondalkin, the same route continued to Lucan, noted for its mineral spring and its strawberry beds, and on to Hazlehatch, which gave access to the town of Celbridge. Near Celbridge stood the abbey of the same name, a favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa in his poem of Cadenus and Vanessa. The onward journey ran through pretty country toward Sallins, eighteen miles from Dublin, where the line crossed the Grand Canal, which connects the Liffey and the Shannon, forming a waterway from east to west.

51. Great Island and the East Ferry River channel

    near Great Island · townland · Cork

    The East Ferry River is the narrow channel separating Great Island from the mainland near Aghada. A sail up this channel is described as a delightful experience, with pleasing scenery on either side.

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    steamer proceeds almost due east, giving passengers an opportunity of seeing parts of the great harbour not touched by the Crosshaven route. Here is the favourite anchorage for yachts. Great Island shows up well, and almost due north of Aghada we get a glimpse of the East Ferry River, the narrow channel which separates the island from the mainland. A sail up this channel is a delightful experience, the scenery on either side being very pleasing.

    Aghada.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is the East Ferry River, the narrow channel separating Great Island from the mainland. A sail up this channel is a delightful experience, the scenery on either side being very pleasing. Near here lies a favourite anchorage for yachts, in a part of the great harbour that the Crosshaven route does not touch. Aghada sits close by, and from the water near there you can glimpse the channel itself.

52. Lansdowne Suspension Bridge over Kenmare Bay

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry

    The Lansdowne Suspension Bridge crosses Kenmare Bay and was the first structure of its kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape west of the town.

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    To-day, Kenmare consists of a main street, leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. There is a good pier a little to the west of the town ; and the bay is crossed by the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge, the first structure of the kind in Ireland. It forms a striking object in the landscape. The Catholic Church is a spacious edifice, with a lofty spire, and is handsomely decorated, thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, the most important feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels, but no one will regret visiting the institution itself. It is wonderful to see how the devoted nuns^succeed in training their young pupils. Even the mere man will marvel at the delicacy and

    148 KEN MARE TO KILLARNEY BY RAIL

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 80

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Kenmare, the Lansdowne Suspension Bridge crosses the bay. It was the first structure of its kind in Ireland, and it forms a striking object in the landscape west of the town. There is a good pier a little to the west as well. The guide tells us that Kenmare itself consists of a main street leading from the market square, with a few others diverging from it. The Catholic Church nearby is a spacious edifice with a lofty spire, handsomely decorated thanks to the munificence of the Marquis of Lansdowne and others. The adjoining Convent of Poor Clares is, however, called the most important feature of the town, and should be seen by all who have the time. Specimens of the famous Kenmare lace, made at the convent, can be seen and bought at the hotels. It is wonderful, the guide says, to see how the devoted nuns succeed in training their young pupils.

53. Aghada: 'long ford' settlement on Cork Harbour

    Aghada · townland · Cork

    Aghada, meaning 'long ford,' is described as little more than a straggling street of mean-looking houses, picturesque only from the water. It serves as a steamer landing point with coach connections to Roche's Point, Cloyne, and Ballycotton.

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    Aghada, “long ford” (pronounced A -had' -a, with accent on second syllable), is little more than a straggling street of mean-looking houses, picturesque only from the water.

    The coach trip (a), to Roche’s Point, etc., affords excellent views of the harbour, and is breezy and exhilarating. Trabolgan is a seat of Lord Fermoy. Roche’s Point Lighthouse, familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for homeward-bound vessels.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Aghada, the name means long ford. The settlement is little more than a straggling street of mean-looking houses, picturesque only from the water. A coach trip runs to Roche's Point and affords excellent views of the harbour, breezy and exhilarating. Trabolgan is a seat of Lord Fermoy. Roche's Point Lighthouse, familiar to Atlantic voyagers, is the signalling station for homeward-bound vessels.

54. Glengarriff village nestled in foliage above Bantry Bay

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    The village of Glengarriff is glimpsed far below from the descending coach road, almost hidden among trees, with the sparkling sea and island-dotted harbour of Bantry Bay visible beyond.

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    the mountains grouped about the head of Bantry Bay, towards which we now descend, great valleys, with here and there a mountain tarn, stretching away on either hand. The prominent height to the right is the Sugarloaf. Presently a glimpse is caught of the sparkling sea, and the driver points out, far below, the village of Glengariff, almost buried in foliage. But though the actual distance to the Glen is only five or six miles, it takes no little time to get down, the steepness of the mountain and the windings of the road necessitating a constant application of the brake. It is a remarkable tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it has been opened for tourist traffic. The driver will point out Lord Bantry' s Shooting Lodge some distance away on the right, and ahead the tourist will see for himself the noble expanse of Bantry Bay, and the island-dotted harbour of Glengariff.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 82

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the mountains gather about the head of Bantry Bay, with great valleys stretching away on either hand and here and there a mountain tarn. The Sugarloaf stands as the prominent height. The sea sparkles, and close to Glengarriff, the village lies almost buried in foliage. The driver points it out as the road descends. The descent is steep, and the road winds so much that the brake must be constantly applied. It is a tribute to the carefulness and competence of the drivers on this route that not a single accident has happened since it was opened for tourist traffic. Lord Bantry's Shooting Lodge can be seen. The noble expanse of Bantry Bay opens out, and the island-dotted harbour comes into view.

55. Northgate Bridge and Old City Fortifications

    Cork · city · Cork

    Northgate Bridge in Cork occupies the site of old fortified bridges and gates of the city. Along with Southgate Bridge, it long formed the only means of communication with the surrounding country.

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    The Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee considerably to the west of St. Patrick’s Bridge ; it occupies the site of one of the old fortified bridges and gates of the city, and with the Southgate Bridge, exactly opposite to it and spanning the southern branch of the river, formed for many years the only means of communication with the surrounding country. The bridges are connected by North and

    28

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    Cork's Northgate Bridge crosses the northern arm of the Lee, well west of St. Patrick's Bridge. It stands where old fortified bridges and gates once guarded the city. For many years this bridge and Southgate Bridge, opposite it on the southern branch of the river, were the only ways in or out of Cork. Everything passed through these gates.

56. Sneem village in Killcrohane parish

    Sneem · town · Kerry

    Sneem is the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane, prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and several mountain streamlets. It contains a Roman Catholic Church with a curious campanile, a Protestant Church, and a comfortable inn.

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    As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left. Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The view i^Sobtained at the junction of another road with that along which we are driving, as we approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane', through which we have been travelling ever since we left Darryrtane. Sneem is prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It cou-

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 77

    As the companion tells it

    Sneem is the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane. It sits prettily at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. The parish has been with you ever since Darryrtane. The approach to Sneem unfolds a grand panorama. Hills on the far side of the bay separate Kerry and Cork. The high mountains round Killarney open out to one side. The most charming landscape of all is the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than 2,000 feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The village itself contains a Roman Catholic Church with a curious campanile, a Protestant Church, and a comfortable inn.

57. Coomcallee mountain and lake

    Coomcallee · townland · Kerry

    The valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake at its foot, is described as perhaps the most charming of the landscapes along the Kenmare Bay drive.

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    As we proceed, a grand and everchanging panorama of the hills which on the other side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork presents itself ; and a still grander one of the high mountains round Killarney is unfolded on the left. Perhaps the most charming of the landscapes is that of the valley leading up to Coomcallee, a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than two thousand feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The view i^Sobtained at the junction of another road with that along which we are driving, as we approach our next halting place, Sneem, the chief village in the extensive parish of Killcrohane', through which we have been travelling ever since we left Darryrtane. Sneem is prettily situated at the head of an estuary formed by the Sneem river and two or three mountain streamlets. It cou-

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 77

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, the valley leads up to Coomcallee. It is a sharp and precipitous mountain, more than 2,000 feet high, with a pretty lake lying at its foot. The book that describes this drive along Kenmare Bay calls the view of that valley perhaps the most charming of all the landscapes along the way. The hills on the far side of the bay separate the counties of Kerry and Cork, and the high mountains round Killarney open out beyond them. The view of Coomcallee is had where another road meets the one along the drive, as you approach Sneem, the chief village in the parish of Killcrohane.

58. Dominican Church of St. Mary's, Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    The Dominican Church of St. Mary's features an Ionic portico visible from St. Patrick's Bridge. It is admired for the chasteness of its style and just proportions.

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    Having regained St. Patrick’s Bridge, a walk of a quarter of a mile along the north side of the river would bring us to the Dominican Church of St. Mary’s, the Ionic portico of which stands out so clearly in the view from St. Patrick’s Bridge. The church is deservedly admired for the chasteness of its style and its just proportions.

    On the opposite bank of the river, but not quite so far from St. Patrick’s Bridge, is the Cork Opera House.

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Cork, there is a church worth noticing. The Dominican Church of St Mary's stands about a quarter of a mile along the north side of the river from St Patrick's Bridge. Its Ionic portico stands out clearly in the view from the bridge. The church is admired for the chasteness of its style and its just proportions.

59. Glencar compared to a Swiss valley

    near Glencar · population centre · Kerry

    The district of Glencar, hemmed in by mountains in a great circle, is described as resembling a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale, cut off from the world save by a small pass.

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    “ Here,” it has been well said, “ one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale. The high ground where the hotel stands is nearly the centre of a great circle, seven or eight miles in diameter, hemmed in by mountains of varying height, and apparently cut off from the outer world save by the small pass by which we entered. About two and a half hours’ stay is allowed here, and the cars take us to the boat at Blackstones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh. Instead of driving, the visitor may y/alk by the river along the fisherman’s path, passing several rapids and large salmon pools, and through groves of birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale — the same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water everywhere meets the eye. Rowing down the lake, on the way to Caragh railway station, some very fine cliffs and headlands are passed, extending all along the lake on,the east side, and the scenery is very varied and beautiful as we approach the end of our journey.

    W. Lawrence,] [ Dublin .

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 70

    As the companion tells it

    The district of Glencar lies hemmed in by mountains, gathered in a great circle some seven or eight miles across. It has been well said of this place that "one may easily imagine himself transferred to a lovely Swiss valley on a reduced scale." It is cut off from the outer world, save by the small pass through which a traveller enters. High ground near the centre once held a hotel. From there, cars carried visitors down to Blackstones Bridge, at the head of Lake Caragh, where the boats waited. If you preferred, you could walk by the river instead, along the fisherman's path, past several rapids and large salmon pools, through groves of birch trees. The surroundings of Lickeen House, at the end of the lake, were said to rival the picturesque part of the Trossachs, but on a much smaller scale. The same abundance of moss-covered birch trees, quiet sylvan retreats, and glistening water met the eye. Rowing down the lake toward Caragh railway station, fine cliffs and headlands extended all along the east side, and the scenery grew very varied and beautiful as the journey neared its end.

60. Gougane Barra holy lake setting

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    Gougane Barra lake lies in a sequestered spot surrounded on all sides except the east by steep, desolate mountains rising abruptly to 1,800 feet. The dark cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the water.

    Read the passage

    Read off the scanned page by machine, so a word here and there is misread. Kept as the reading produced it, not corrected.

    The lake lies in a sequestered spot, environed on all save the eastern side by mountains of the steepest and most desolate aspect, which rise abruptly to a height of 1,800 feet. The dark shadows of these great overhanging cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the water. The lake itself is dark and lustrous as a polished slab of marble, and the gloomy grandeur of the cliffs is only relieved by the streams

    W. Lawrence ,]

    Internet Archive pictorialdescrip00ward_1, Chapter 94

    As the companion tells it

    Gougane Barra lies in a sequestered spot, walled on every side but the east by mountains of the steepest, most desolate aspect, rising abruptly to 1,800 feet. The dark shadows of these overhanging cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the water. The lake itself is dark and lustrous as a polished slab of marble, and the gloomy grandeur of the cliffs is only relieved by the streams.