The river Lee, Cork, and the Corkonians

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Bishop of Ross hanged at Carrigadrohid, 1650

   Carrigadrohid · townland · Cork · 1650

   After the defeat of the Bishop of Ross at Macroom Castle in May 1650, Lord Broghill promised him full pardon if he would persuade the garrison of Carrigadrohid Castle to surrender. The bishop instead bravely exhorted the garrison to hold out to the last, declaring his life as nothing compared to the sacred cause. He was immediately hanged in sight of the garrison.

   Read the passage

   During the stormy times that succeeded the year 1641, the possession of Carrigadrohid, from the importance of its position, was fiercely contested by the followers of Cromwell and the adherents of the Stuarts. But the castle is especially associated with as noble an instance of heroic self-sacrifice as is recorded in history. After the defeat of the Bishop of Ross, at Macroom Castle, in May, 1650, which we have mentioned already, Lord Broghill promised full pardon to the captured prelate if he would persuade the garrison of Carrigadrohid Castle to surrender. The bishop consented, and Broghill marched to Carrigadrohid. The bishop having been brought to the castle, under the protection of a flag of truce, bravely exhorted the garrison to hold out to the last, observing that his life should be held as nothing in comparison with the great and sacred cause they had sworn to uphold. The result of this noble harangue was what might be expected. The devoted prelate was instantly hanged in sight of the garrison, who, exasperated by the spectacle, bravely resisted the forces of Broghill, who, unable to

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 11

2. Macroom Castle: O'Flynns' stronghold on the Sullane

   Macroom · town · Cork · 1199–1200

   Macroom Castle stands on an elevation above the southern bank of the Sullane. Though popularly attributed to the Carews or King John, it was likely built by the O'Flynns, who held extensive possessions in Muskerry before being dispossessed by the McCarthys. The castle is of massy strength, flanked by two square bartizans, with ivy-mantled walls.

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   above the southern bank of the Sullane, stands Macroom Castle. Sir R. Cox says it was built by the Carews in the reign of King John, while others absurdly attribute its erection to that monarch himself. There can, however, be scarcely a doubt that it was erected by the sept of the O'Flynns, who once held extensive possessions in Muskerry. The O'Flynns were dispossessed of the castle by Dairinid McCarthy More, whose clan ruled over Macroom for centuries. The castle is of massy strength, and is flanked by two square bartizans. It is of no particular style of architecture, but an incongruous jumble of several — attributable, doubtless, to the fact of each successive occupier having either made repairs or additions to it in his own taste. Notwithstanding its nondescript character, the castle looks extremely picturesque, with its ivymantled walls towering above the placid Sullane.

   The castle possesses much historical interest. It was besieged in 1602, by Sir Charles Wilmot, vrho was on the point of raising the siege, owing to the stubborn resistance of the garrison under Lord Muskerry, when the castle took fire accidentally, and the besieged had to surrender unconditionally. In 1641, it was again burned down, but was rebuilt the same year by Lord

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 10

3. Captain Rock's Ambush at Keimaneigh, 1822

   near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork · 1822

   During the Rockite disturbances of 1822, a detachment of yeomanry under Lord Bantry narrowly escaped being crushed by an enormous mass of rock hurled down the cliff in the name of the Trinity by the legendary Captain Rock. The rock fell just as the last yeoman passed, blocking the passage behind them and securing them from pursuit—though the author notes Windele, a diligent collector, did not mention the incident.

   Read the passage

   the present fine road through the heart of Keimaneigh, and thereby robbed it of much of its security as a retreat for outlaws. It is said that during the Rockite disturbances in 1822, a detachment of yeomanry, under Lord Bantry, while passing through the defile, narrowlyescaped being crushed , to atoms by an enormous mass of rock, which, hurled on them, Tell fashion, in the name of the Trinity, by the redoubtable Capt. Rock himself, came thundering down the cliff just as the last of the yeomen had passed the spot where it fell — completely blocking up the passage in then* rere, and securing them from the pursuit of their enemies.*

   About midway in the pass the wild sublimity and grandeur of the scene are almost overwhelming. Huge crags and fragments of rock appear toppling over the brows of the cliffs that frown darkly on either side of the spectator, and seem to threaten his instant destruction ; while shattered stones of immense size lie around, as if

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 6

4. Carrignacurra Castle and the O'Leary sept

   Carrignacurra · townland · Cork · 1588–1641

   Carrignacurra Castle, also called Castle Masters, is a high square tower rising boldly from a cliff over the river. It was built by Sabina O'Carroll, wife of one of the O'Learies, and served as their principal stronghold. It was forfeited and garrisoned by Cromwell's troops after the 1641 rebellion.

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   by trees, which bring it out in agreeable relief from the bare country around, and consists of a high square tower, without any discernable outworks. It is said to have been built by Sabina O'Carroll, wife of one of the O'Learies, whose principal stronghold it remained for many years. The O'Learies, although subject to the M'Carthies, were once a powerful sept in this country, whichTias been called Ibh-Laoghaire, or Ivleary (the O'Leary's country), from the extensive possessions this family once held in it. In 1588, Dermot O'Leary, then chief of the clan, was attainted for engaging in the Earl of Desmond's rebellion; and in "the troubles" of 1641, Carrignactirra was forfeited, and garrisoned by Cromwell's troops.

   Mr. Windele thus refers to the O'Learies : — " The name is still frequent here amongst the peasantry ; but a sod of the fee-simple property belongs not to one of the clan. The governor and company for making hollow sword-blades, in England, long since disposed of that. Fame, however, has been more partial to individuals of this race, and Ireland claims amongst her most eminent worthies the name of the pious, the enlightened, and the facetious Father Arthur O'Leary ; and there is a very reasonable chance

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 8

5. Legend of the dragon and founding of Cork Cathedral

   near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

   A popular legend relates that St. Patrick, after banishing reptiles from Ireland, overlooked one winged dragon that desolated the countryside. Power was given to a holy man named Fineen Barr to drown the monster in Gougane Barra lake, on condition that he erect a church where the waters met the tide—fulfilled by the founding of Cork Cathedral.

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   * A popular legend ascribes the foundation of that building to the following circumstances: — St. Pa-trick, after banishing the reptiles out of the country, overlooked one hideous monster, a winged dragon, which desolated the adjacent country ; and power was conferred on a holy man named Fineen Barr, to drown the monster in Gougaune Lake, on condition of erecting a church where its waters met the tide ; and the saint, having exterminated the monster, fulfilled the agreement by founding *;he present Cathedral of Cork.

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 3

6. English capture of Carrigadrohid Castle by stratagem

   Carrigadrohid · townland · Cork

   The English, unable to take the castle by force, used teams of oxen to draw large timber toward it. The Irish defenders mistook the timber for cannon and surrendered upon articles of parley.

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   take the castle by main force, at length obtained possession of it by a stratagem, which is thus related by Smith : — " The English got two or three team of oxen, and made them draw some pieces of great timber towards it, which the Irish mistaking for cannon, presently began to parley, and surrendered upon articles."

   From Carrigadrohid the Lee runs in a northeasterly direction through a well-cultivated country. A little below Oakgrove, the banks of the river become beautifully wooded. Leafy vistas are seen spreading away into sylvan recesses, through which the sunbeams glimmer mistily on a carpet of vivid green. Here the river Glashagariff swells the tide of the Lee, whose banks are now occasionally studded with elegant villas, the names of whose owners do not immediately occur to us.

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 12

7. Siege and burning of Macroom Castle, 1602

   Macroom · town · Cork · 1602–1641

   In 1602, Sir Charles Wilmot besieged Macroom Castle but was on the point of raising the siege due to the stubborn resistance of the garrison under Lord Muskerry. The castle accidentally took fire, forcing the besieged to surrender unconditionally. It was burned down again in 1641 but rebuilt the same year by Lord Muskerry.

   Read the passage

   The castle possesses much historical interest. It was besieged in 1602, by Sir Charles Wilmot, vrho was on the point of raising the siege, owing to the stubborn resistance of the garrison under Lord Muskerry, when the castle took fire accidentally, and the besieged had to surrender unconditionally. In 1641, it was again burned down, but was rebuilt the same year by Lord

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 10

8. Revenge killing of Morris in Peter Street, Cork

   Cork · city · Cork · 1773

   Two months after Arthur O'Leary's death, on the 7th of July 1773, his brother rode up Peter's Church Lane in Cork in broad daylight and fired three shots at Morris, who was standing near the window of his lodgings in Peter Street. Morris died from his wounds, and the avenger escaped to America.

   Read the passage

   struggle ensued, but O'Leary escaped, being indebted for his safety to the fleetness of his steed. His resistance was represented to the government in such a light that he was pro-> claimed an outlaw, a large reward offered for his apprehension, and troops despatched toarrest him. The peasantry were so attached to him that for four years his popularity secured him from the most active exertions of his pursuers. At length he was surprised by an ambush near Millstreet, and was shot through the heart, at the early age of twenty-six. The brother of the deceased watched an opportunity for revenge ; and two months after the event, oil the 7th of July, 1773, he rode up Peter's Church Lane, in Cork, in broad daylight, and deliberately fired three shots in succession at .Morris, who was standing near the window of his lodgings in Peter-street. Mr. [Morris was wounded in the side by one of the shots, from the fiil'rrts of which he died. The avenger of his brother escaped to America, where he died no many years since.

   Within Kilcrea are also interred the remains of out: with whom are connected some interesting Ui.torical reminiscences. In the southern tran- »";>t i» it broken tomb, of which the inscription

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 15

   As the companion tells it

   As the road takes you through Cork, you pass through a city where a revenge killing happened in 1773. A struggle had ensued, but O'Leary escaped, indebted for his safety to the fleetness of his steed. His resistance was represented to the government in such a light that he was proclaimed an outlaw, a large reward offered for his apprehension, and troops despatched to arrest him. The peasantry were so attached to him that for four years his popularity secured him from the most active exertions of his pursuers. At length he was surprised by an ambush near Millstreet and was shot through the heart, at the early age of twenty-six. The brother of the deceased watched an opportunity for revenge. Two months after the event, on the 7th of July, 1773, he rode up Peter's Church Lane, in Cork, in broad daylight, and deliberately fired three shots in succession at Morris, who was standing near the window of his lodgings in Peter Street. Morris was wounded in the side by one of the shots, from the effects of which he died. The avenger of his brother escaped to America, where he died some years since.

9. Arthur O'Leary ambushed and shot near Millstreet

   Millstreet · town · Cork

   After being proclaimed an outlaw under the penal laws, Arthur O'Leary evaded capture for four years due to the peasantry's attachment to him. He was at length surprised by an ambush near Millstreet and shot through the heart at the early age of twenty-six.

   Read the passage

   struggle ensued, but O'Leary escaped, being indebted for his safety to the fleetness of his steed. His resistance was represented to the government in such a light that he was pro-> claimed an outlaw, a large reward offered for his apprehension, and troops despatched toarrest him. The peasantry were so attached to him that for four years his popularity secured him from the most active exertions of his pursuers. At length he was surprised by an ambush near Millstreet, and was shot through the heart, at the early age of twenty-six. The brother of the deceased watched an opportunity for revenge ; and two months after the event, oil the 7th of July, 1773, he rode up Peter's Church Lane, in Cork, in broad daylight, and deliberately fired three shots in succession at .Morris, who was standing near the window of his lodgings in Peter-street. Mr. [Morris was wounded in the side by one of the shots, from the fiil'rrts of which he died. The avenger of his brother escaped to America, where he died no many years since.

   Within Kilcrea are also interred the remains of out: with whom are connected some interesting Ui.torical reminiscences. In the southern tran- »";>t i» it broken tomb, of which the inscription

   Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 15

10. Kilcrea Friary interior: bone walls and Cromwellian destruction

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    Until recently the entrance of Kilcrea Friary was lined with a grisly wall of human bones and skulls. The window mullions were destroyed by Cromwell's troopers. A square belfry eighty feet high separates the nave from the choir, with four ribbed arches springing from one column—an architectural peculiarity.

    Read the passage

    trees. The Friary was founded in A.D., 1465, by Cormac M'C'artby Laider, Lord of Muskerry, for Franciscans, and was dedicated to St. Bridget. The ruins are extensive, and the walls still remaining almost entire, the Abbey has an impos • ing appearance when viewed from the bridge. On entering the ruins the effect is still further enhanced, and a feeling of religious awe inspired by the spreading aisles and transept, now unroofed and dismantled, where once sacred hymns •were intoned and fragrant incense rose to the fretted roof. Until lately, the entrance was lined on both sides by a grisly wall constructed of human bones and skulls. The nave is separated from the choir by a square belfry, eighty feet high, through which a round-headed archway communicates with the choir. The columns supporting the arches are round, low, and formed of solid masonry. From one of these columns four ribbed arches spring — an architectural peculiarity which distinguishes this building from all other structures of the kind. The mullions of the windows were destroyed by the sacriligious hands of Cromwell's troopers. A side aisle communicates with the nave by three pointed archways ; and at the right side of the nave a passage leads into a chantry. Two. massive pointed

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 13

11. Cork surrendered to Anglo-Normans by Dermod McCarthy

    Cork · city · Cork · 1172

    In 1172, Dermod McCarthy, Prince of Desmond, surrendered Cork to the Anglo-Normans. Henry II granted the city of the Ostmen, covering the space between the present north and south bridges, exempting it from possessions given to Robert Fitz-stephen and Milo de Cogan.

    Read the passage

    of them, weary of blood and plunder, or smit, mayhap, with the wild beauty of the place, settled down there, and diverting their skill and energies into more peaceful channels, engaged in trade, and laid the foundation of the future commercial prosperity of the city. At the present day the names of many cf its inhabitants attest their descent from these Danish pirates. From the period of their settlement the city grew apace, and the Scandinavian adventurers were converted into peaceful chapmen when it was surrendered to the Anglo-Normans in 1172, by Dermod McCarthy, Prince of Desmond. By a grant of Henry II., the city of the Ostmen, which covered the greater part of the space between the present north and south bridges, was exempted from the ideal possessions bestowed upon Kobert Fitzstephen and Milo de Cogan as their portion of the quasi-conquered kingdom of Cork.*

    In the 13th century several religious establishments were erected and endowed in Cork. In 1214, a Grey or Franciscan Friary was founded by Dermod McCarthy Rea, at Shandon, on the north side of the city. In 1229, a Doaoinicaii Friary arose on the present site of the convent of

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 24

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Cork, you are passing through a city whose turning point came in 1172. That year, Dermod McCarthy, Prince of Desmond, surrendered Cork to the Anglo-Normans. Before that, the city had been built by Danish settlers, Scandinavian adventurers who arrived as pirates and then turned to trade, laying the foundation of Cork's commercial prosperity. The names of many of its inhabitants still attested their descent from those Danish pirates. The city grew apace from their settlement, and the Scandinavian adventurers were converted into peaceful chapmen. By a grant of Henry II, the city of the Ostmen, covering the greater part of the space between the present north and south bridges, was exempted from the possessions bestowed on Robert Fitzstephen and Milo de Cogan as their portion of the quasi-conquered kingdom of Cork. In the 13th century, religious establishments followed. In 1214, a Franciscan friary was founded at Shandon on the north side of the city by Dermod McCarthy Rea. In 1229, a Dominican friary arose on the present site of a convent.

12. Kilcrea Friary plundered and changing ownership, 1601 onwards

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1601

    Kilcrea Friary was plundered by Tyrone's soldiers in 1601 and repaired shortly after. In 1614 Lord Deputy Chichester entrusted it to Charles M'Dermod McCarthy on condition friars be expelled and land let only to English Protestants, but friars remained until after the 1641 war, when Cromwell granted the lands to Lord Broghill.

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    The Friary was plundered by the soldiers of the Catholic Tyrone, in 1G01, shortly after which it was repaired. In 1614, the Lord Deputy Chi chester entrusted the care of the Monastery to Charles M'Dermod McCarthy, Lord Muskeny, a Protestant, on condition that he should not allow Friars to dwell in it, and that the laud should be let to none but English Protestants These conditions he seems not to have fulfilled, siiiCL1 the Friars were not expelled until after the war of '1041, when Cromwell granted the lands to Lord Broglrill. They again reverted to thy Clancarty family ; but, on the attainder of Douagh, the third Earl, they came into the possession of Captain Hedges, by purchase from the Hollow Sword Blade Company. They ultimately came into the possession of the lives, of I\ye Court, to onft of whose desccitdents they ftow belong.

    A little to the west of the Friary, higher up the stream, stands the Castle of Kilcrea. It was once a keep of the Clancarty sept, and the date • ••f it* erection is coeval with that of the Friary, by whose founder it was built. It is a square tower, seventy feet high, and .still in a good i-t.-itc of preservation. The bawn and moat etill exist ; liit the barbicans and outworks ar«

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 16

13. Monkstown Castle built for a groat by Anastatia Archdekan

    Monkstown · townland · Cork · 1636–1688

    Monkstown Castle is a quadrangular building flanked by square towers, built in 1636. Tradition holds that Mrs. Anastatia Archdekan built it while her husband was abroad, profiting by selling food and clothing to the workmen so that the net cost to her was a single groat. The Archdekans, being Stuart adherents, forfeited the castle in 1688.

    Read the passage

    It is a quadrangular building, flanked by square towers, and was built in 1636, at the cost of a groat ! So saith tradition which gives this solution of the problem. Mrs. Anastatia Archdekan, while her husband was absent in a foreign land, determined to afford him uan agreeable surprise," by presenting him on his return with a castle of her own erection. Having engaged workmen, she made an agreement with them that they should purchase food and clothing solely from herse'f. The thrifty lady then laid in a good store of these necessaries, charging the workmen a commission on the sales. When the edifice was completed, on balancing her amount of receipts and expenditure, she found that the latter exceeded the former by the sum of four pence. The Castle, however, was not long in the possession of the Archdekans, since, being adherents of the Stuarts, they forfeited in 1688.

    Doubling the angle of Reenmeen, on" the opposite shore, we enter the splendid estuary of Cork Harbour. Passing the naval depot of llaulbow-

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 42

14. St. Olan's Well and miraculous tombstone at Dripsey

    Dripsey · town · Cork

    Near the village of Dripsey stands St. Olan's Well, beside a noble pillar stone inscribed with Ogham. In the adjoining churchyard a stone called St. Olan's Cap, believed to be his tomb, is credited with miraculous healing virtues and said to return of itself if removed.

    Read the passage

    In the immediate neighbourhood of the village of Dripsey is St. Olan's Well, near which stands a noble pillar stone inscribed with mystic Ogham ; and in the adjoining churchyard is a stone, said to be his tomb, and which is called St. Olan's Cap. This cap is believed to possess miraculous healing virtues ; and Smith says the people of the vicinage are persuaded that if the stone were removed it would return of itself to its present position.

    Passing the ruins of the church of Innisluinga, erected by St. Senan, of Scattery, and, lower down, of Castle Inchy, we come to the most charming scenery through which our river flows — the romantic valley of Inniscarra. We shall not attempt to describe a scene which is indescribable ; but we must linger a few moments within the crumbling walls of the old church of Inniscarra, which stands on the margin of the river, embowered in venerable trees. It was founded by St. Senan ; and its solitary situation in a lone glen on the marge of a murmuring tide, at the confluence of the Lee and Bride, was admirably fitted for the indulgence of prayer and religious meditation. The guardian trees that overshadow the ruins have been religiously spared by the hand of man — a refined feeling

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 12

15. Pouln-Iffrin: dragon guarding treasure beneath the Lee

    near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork

    A deep gloomy pool on the River Lee, known as Pouln-Iffrin or Hell-hole near Killogrohan church, is said to be inhabited by a huge dragon or snake guarding untold treasures beneath the waters. Crofton Croker celebrated the pool as the chief haunt of 'Teigue of the Lee.'

    Read the passage

    r)eep gloomy linnjor pool, aptly designated Ponfcn-Iffrin, or Hell-hole. A hideous snake or dragon of immense size is said to inhabit this pool. He watches vigilantly over untold treasures that lie buried beneath the waters, which he never quits except for an evening promenade 01* the banks of the river, where the marks of his paws have been sometimes discerned. Crofton Crokor has celebrated this pool as the chief haunt of that ubiquitous sprite, " Teiguf of the Lee." On the south side of the river, crr *ting a steep rock which rises perpendicularly above the road that winds at its base, stands the picturesque Castle of Carrigrohan. A few years ago it was a mouldering ruin, but has since been completely restored by Mr. M'Swiney, who now inhabits it. It Avas formerly a pile of considerable extent and massy strength. In 1462, it is mentioned as having been the boundary of the liberties or the city of Cork. Carrigrohan was founded by the MacCartMes, and came subsequently into the possession of those bold acquisitive Barretts, of whom we have already made mention. Their estates were forfeited at the Revolution, and in 1641 Carrigrohan was dismantled. It afterwards became the residence of Captain Cope, a daring- Jvapparec, who, at the head of a gang of brigands^

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 17

16. Tomb of Arthur O'Leary 'the outlaw' in Kilcrea Abbey

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    Arthur O'Leary, known as 'the outlaw,' is buried in the south-east angle of the nave at Kilcrea Abbey. His tomb bears an inscription commemorating him as generous, handsome, and brave, slain in his bloom. His fate illustrates the iniquity of the penal laws.

    Read the passage

    perils of that stormy time, and was subsequently known as a writer of several works of no particular merit. In the south-east angle of the nave is the tomb of Arthur O'Leary, commonly called " the outlaw." It bears the following inscription : —

    " Lo ! Arthur Leary, generous, 'handsome, brav«, Slain in his bloom, lies in this humble^grave."

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 14

17. 1381 Cork citizens' expedition against the Barretts of Ballincollig

    near Ballincollig · town · Cork · 1381

    In 1381, the citizens of Cork, harassed by the Barretts' repeated raids, despatched a large force against them. They captured the chief of the Barretts and several of the clan, detaining them as hostages.

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    Fine lawless days, no doubt, when robber knights washed down with stoups of potent ale or w the meat they had plundered from their weaker neighbours, and scorned every man of low degree as a scurvy knave. Such were the Barretts of Ballincollig ; and Dr. Stnith relates that, in 1381, the citizens of Cork, harrassed by the repeated forays of these freebooters, despatched a large force against them, capturing the chic of the Barretts and several of the clan, who were detained as hostages.

    As we approach the church of Killogrohan, on turning & bend in the river we come upon a

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 17

18. Ghostly legend of Rostellan mansion

    Rostellan · townland · Cork

    A legend records that the proprietor who built Rostellan mansion on the site of a disturbed graveyard was terrorized by unearthly noises from the spirits of those whose remains he had dispossessed. He fled the house and never inhabited it again.

    Read the passage

    A legend records that the proprietor who erected the mansion of Rostellan, having Liiflt it on the site of a graveyard, from which the bones were removed for the purpose, was so terrified on taking possession of the house by^the unearthly noises made by the spirits of those whose mortal remains he had disturbed, that ho fled from it, and never inhabited it after. There is also a stone in the demesne, said to possess the magical property, wlien removed, of returning to its original position.

    A short distance from Aghada appears the neat village of Whitogate, on the marge of a bay formed by the semi -circular sweep of the shore. Opposite is the wood-robed headland of Curraghbinny, at the mouth of the Carrigaline river, the final tributary of the Lee At ks entrance is the fishing hamlet of Crosshaven, and further in,

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 43

19. Ghost prevents desecration of Kilcrea Abbey stones

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    Kilcrea Abbey belonged to Mr. Rye of Rye Court. An old woman guide recounted that one of Rye's ancestors, attempting to remove stones from the ruins for building purposes, was prevented from doing so by ghostly interposition.

    Read the passage

    arches divide the aisle at the west end of the transept, which is about seventy feet in length. The Abbey (if so we may term it) belongs at present to Mr. Rye, of Rye Court ; and the old woman who acted as our cicerone informed us that one of his ancestors, while attempting to remove some stones from the ruins for building purposes, was prevented by ghostly interposition from carrying out the desecration.

    The entire -space within the walls is thickly peopled with the dead : the peasantry of the surrounding districts eagerly coveting the privilege of having the bones of their relatives repose, when " life's feverish dream is o'er," within its hallowed precints. In Kilcrea are buried many members of the house of the M'C jrthies of Muskerry, from Cormac, its founder, to the last descendant of the race, who died in Cork, and was buried here in 1832, after which the ancestral tomb was walled up, never to be opened again, save to the trumpet-summons of the Judgment Day. Among the remarkable personages interred here was Roger O'Connor, whose tomb stands in the nave. He was an ardent republican and free-thinker, and, with his brother Arthur, took a leading part in the rebellion of 1798. He fortunately escaped the

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 14

20. Gougane Barra: sacred lake and source of the Lee

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    The River Lee originates at Gougane Barra, a tranquil lake enclosed by bare, precipitous mountains that divide the counties of Cork and Kerry. The lake is fed by mountain rills and is described as sacred, with a small island at its centre connected by a causeway.

    Read the passage

    of a steep hill, leads to the Pass of Keiinaneigh. A little beyond the head of the Pass, a bend in the road suddenly discloses a scene more wildly grand and stern than picturesque. Bare and precipitous mountains bound the view on all sides, and enclose a tranquil sheet of water which sleeps within their rugged embrace, " like a woman in a warrior's arms." This is the sacred lake of Gougaune Barra, the source of the River Lee.* The mountains which encircle the cradle of the infant Lee divide the counties of Cork and Kerry, and the lake is formed by the mountain rills that descend their sides. It is oblong in shape, and near its centre arises a small island, connected with the southern shore of the lake by a narrow causeway. This island is overshadowed by venerable ash trees, which a useful superstition has preserved, at least from the hand of man.

    On the island are the ruins of the chapel and of the hermit's cell, whence the place derives its •anctity. In this lone retreat St. Finnbar,f who

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 2

21. Una O'Carroll and Diarmid M'Carthy: legend of Carrigadrohid's founding

    Carrigadrohid · townland · Cork

    The site of Carrigadrohid Castle is said to have been chosen by the lovely Una O'Carroll. To gratify her caprice, her lover Diarmid M'Carthy raised the castle in a marvellously brief time on the cliff she had selected, where they both lived happily after their nuptials.

    Read the passage

    We now arrive at the extremely picturesque Castle of Carrigadrohid. Like the celebrated Aiduse Thurm on the Rhine, it stands on a steep rock, in the midst of the Lee. A bridge on either side connects it with the banks of the river, whence the castle derives its designation, ( signifying the Rock of the Bridge. The Lee foams and rushes in a turbulent current around the rock on which it is built ; and the spectator is impressed at once with the strength and romantic effect of its position. Its site is said to have been chosen by the lovely Una O'Carroll, to gratify whose caprice, her lover, Diarmid

    28 TH« RIVER LEE.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 11

22. Cork citizens defied Lord Deputy's proclamation of James I

    Cork · city · Cork · 1603

    Cork citizens refused to proclaim James I when ordered by the Lord Deputy, treating the messenger with indignity. Sir Charles Wilmot was dispatched with troops but the citizens allowed him entry with only six soldiers and forbade him to lodge in the suburbs.

    Read the passage

    nity, refusing to obey the mandate, whereupon Si» Charles Wilmot was despatched with troops to the city ; but the citizens refused to admit Min with more than six soldiers, and forbade him to lodge in the suburbs.*

    Intimidated by the approach of Cromwell, the city declared for the Parliament in 1649, about which time William Penn, the celebrated founder of Pensylvania, became a convert to Quakerism, in Cork, after having accidentally heard a sermon from a member of that sect. In 1688, General M'Carthy took possession of the city for James II., who made a public entry into Cork the following year, after having landed at Kinsale.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 26

23. Bishop Hurly sheltered at Macroom Castle by McCarthy More

    Macroom · town · Cork

    Bishop Hurly, a native of Carbery, was betrayed, imprisoned in Dublin Castle and the Tower of London, and eventually released. He then repaired to Macroom Castle, the residence of his friend McCarthy More, whose hospitality he enjoyed for a brief period.

    Read the passage

    is defaced, but on which a cross fleury is still visible. This is generally believed to indicate the resting place of Bishop Herlihy, or Hurly, erst titular Bishop of Ross, one of the three Irish Prelates who attended the Council of Trent. Ilii life was an eventful one. He was a native of Carbery and of humble origin. On returning to Ireland, after assisting at the Council of Trent, he was declared a rebel, and retired to Carbery, from which he was shortly afterwards driven. Betrayed by a renegade named O'Sullivan (the first, we believe, who has ever sullied that fine old Celtic name), he was imprisoned in Dublin Castle, whence he was transferred to the Tower of London, where he was confined inone .of its gloomiest dungeons for three years and a-half. After some attempts to liberate him had failed, he was at length set at liberty, and w;w about to visit Belgium, when he was seized with illness. He had himself immediately conveyed to Ireland, that he might die in the " Island of Sain'^s." On landing, he was irade prisoner and confined in the Castle, until an order came from the Lieutenant of the Tower for his release. He then repaired to Macroom Castle, the residence of his friend McCarthy More, whose hospitality he enjoyed for a brief period. Bishop Hurly

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 15

24. Blacksmith in Old Post Office-lane fired fatal shot at Duke of Grafton

    Old Post Office Lane · street · Cork · 1690

    During the 1690 siege of Cork, the shot that mortally wounded the Duke of Grafton was fired by a blacksmith from a forge in Old Post Office-lane. After the surrender of Cork, the extensive Clancarty estates in the county were forfeited to the Crown.

    Read the passage

    think, twelve or thirteen thrown into the town •while the siege lasted. The cannons from without roared, and they made a breach in the east Bide towards South Gate ; the then Duke of Grafton commanded the marines, and approached to Dunscombe's Marsh over the river, intending to storm at the breach ; and in all human probability had carried the town, but that he was mortally wounded from the walls, and so carried off, and died in about a week." The shot -which killed the Duke was fired by a blacksmith from a forge in Old Post Oilice-lane. After the surrender of Cork, the extensive Clancarty estates in the county were forfeited to the Crown,

    At the period of the siege the city occupied about a tenth of the space it now covers. Shortly after that event, the marshes of the city began to be reclaimed, and some improvements to be introduced, as will be seen by the following extract from the Council Book of the Corporation of Cork :~_" 30th of July, 1697. Ordered that Mr. Edward Richardson, according to proposalls by him given in this day to the Councill, for bringing in fresh water in pipes to every house in the City, who shall agree with him, have liberty according to his proposall, of breaking up tlia

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Cork, the city holds a story from the siege of 1690. Cannons pounded the walls and made a breach on the east side towards South Gate. The Duke of Grafton commanded the marines. He led them approaching to Dunscombe's Marsh over the river, intending to storm at the breach. In all human probability he had carried the town, but he was mortally wounded from the walls, and so carried off, and died in about a week. The shot that killed the Duke was fired by a blacksmith from a forge in Old Post Office Lane. After the surrender of Cork, the extensive Clancarty estates in the county were forfeited to the Crown. At the period of the siege the city occupied about a tenth of the space it now covers. Shortly after that event, the marshes of the city began to be reclaimed, and some improvements to be introduced. In 1697 the Corporation ordered that Mr. Edward Richardson, for bringing in fresh water in pipes to every house in the city, have liberty of breaking up the ground.

25. Blair's Castle and Windele's antiquarian collection

    Cork · city · Cork · 1750

    Blair's Castle, with ivied walls rising at a commanding elevation above the river Lee, is the residence of Mr. Windele, a well-known antiquary. The castle holds a fine collection rich in Irish archaeology, including Ogham inscriptions in which Windele was the principal discoverer, portions of primaeval mills, and remains of local medieval sculpture. Blair, the founder, was a Scotch surgeon who built the castle in the mid-eighteenth century after making his fortune through an accidental cure.

    Read the passage

    After passing the Queen's College, the handsome church of St. Vincent (as yet without it> tower and spire) is seen on the northern side of* the river, and rising at a commanding elevation, above it, appear the ivied walls of Blair's Castle. the residence of Mr. Windelc, the well-known antiquary. Mr. Windele possesses a fine antiquarian collection, particularly rich in Irish archaeology, containing a megalithic library, consisting of Ogham inscriptions, in which department of our national antiquities he has been the principal discoverer. There are also at Blair's Castle several portions of primaeval, mills, and remains of local mediseval sculpture.

    Blair, the founder of the castle, was a Scotch surgeon, who, in the middle of the last century, obtained a reputation by an accidental cure, for

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel through Cork along the river Lee, the ivied walls of Blair's Castle rise at a commanding elevation above the water. It is the residence of Mr. Windele, a well-known antiquary. He keeps there a fine collection, rich in Irish archaeology, including a megalithic library of Ogham inscriptions, a field in which he has been the principal discoverer. The castle also holds portions of primaeval mills and remains of local medieval sculpture. The founder, Blair, was a Scottish surgeon who built the castle in the middle of the 1700s, after gaining his reputation through an accidental cure.

26. Elizabethan charter on unsafe Cork-Dublin access

    Cork · city · Cork · 1558–1603

    Queen Elizabeth's charter to Cork noted the city was so far from Dublin that, due to violent insurrection of the Irish people, there had never been safe access between the two cities and never would be. The passage was cited to contrast with the later Great Southern and Western Railway.

    Read the passage

    * The following curious extract from the charter granted by Queen Elizabeth to the city of Cork shows how little it was anticipated in the sixteenth century that a communication so safe and rapid as that afforded by the Great Southern and Western Railway would exist between Cork and Dublin in the nineteenth : — •" Because that the city of Cork is far distant from the city of Dublin, so that by tho violent insurrection and route of the Irish people, ' there has not been at any time, a safe access from the said city flf.Dublinto Cork, nor irill tltere be fur the future.' "

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 25

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, a charter Queen Elizabeth granted to this city noted that the city of Cork was far distant from Dublin, so that by the violent insurrection and route of the Irish people, “there has not been at any time a safe access from the said city of Dublin to Cork, nor will there be for the future.” The writer who cited this noted how little anyone in the sixteenth century anticipated that a communication as safe and rapid as the Great Southern and Western Railway would exist between the two cities in the nineteenth.

27. The Mardyke walk formed in 1719

    Mardyke · electoral division · Cork · 1719

    The Mardyke is a charming avenue nearly a mile long, bordered by two rows of elm trees, formed across a swamp in 1719 by a Mr. Webber. He built a red brick house at its western end and enclosed a tea-garden much frequented by citizens; the name derives from the Meer Dyke in Amsterdam.

    Read the passage

    On the other side of the river, and parallel with the great western entrance to the city, is the Mardykc — a charming avenue, nearly a mile in length, and bordered by two rows of elm tree*. It was lit throughout by lamps ; but many of these have been removed by an over-economic corporation. This agreeable walk was formed across a swamp in 1719, by a Mr. Webber, who built at its western termination a red brick house (whence it was designated " The Red House Walk"), and enclosed a tea-garden much frequented by the citizens of that day. Some of the trees have been barbarously hacked in pruning, and now present a mis-shapen and grotesque appearance.

    For the enlightenment and comfort of etymologists, we may mention that the name of this once favourite promenade — now abandoned for the most part to invalids and nursery maids, with their toddling charges — is derived from a walk in Amsterdam, called the Meer Dyke, or sea-dyke, an embankment raised to arrest the encroachment of the sea.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming into the Mardyke now, that long avenue running nearly a mile along the river, bordered by two rows of elm trees. It was formed across a swamp in 1719 by a Mr. Webber. He built a red brick house at its western end, and people came to call it the Red House Walk. He also enclosed a tea-garden there, much frequented by the citizens of that day. The avenue was lit throughout by lamps, though many of these have been removed by an over-economic corporation. Some of the trees have been barbarously hacked in pruning and now present a misshapen and grotesque appearance. The name itself comes from a walk in Amsterdam, the Meer Dyke, or sea-dyke, an embankment raised to arrest the encroachment of the sea. In its day it was a favourite promenade, now abandoned for the most part to invalids and nursery maids with their toddling charges.

28. Macroom's poets and the legend of Barry the punch-drinker

    Macroom · town · Cork

    Macroom had a reputation for hospitality and the jovial character of its population, with potheen extensively patronised. A local hero named Barry was immortalised in a poem comparing him favourably to famous punch-drinkers. Macroom also claimed to have given birth to the poet O'Kelly, known for his 'Curse of Doneraile,' and to the local poet Connolly.

    Read the passage

    nectar, potheen ,was extensively patronised by the Macrompians. Macroom has a high reputation for its hospitality and the jovial character of its population ; and one of them, named Barry, has been handed down to the admiration of posterity in a poem, the opening stanza of which we transcribe : —

    " Oh ! what is Dan McCarthy, or what is old Jem Nash, Or all who e'er in punch-drinking by luuk have cut a dash, Compared to that choice hero, whose praise my rhymes

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 10

29. Carrigadrohid Castle on its rock in the Lee

    Carrigadrohid · townland · Cork

    Carrigadrohid Castle stands on a steep rock in the midst of the River Lee, connected to the banks by bridges on either side. Its name signifies the Rock of the Bridge. The Lee foams and rushes in a turbulent current around the rock, impressing the spectator with the strength and romantic effect of its position.

    Read the passage

    We now arrive at the extremely picturesque Castle of Carrigadrohid. Like the celebrated Aiduse Thurm on the Rhine, it stands on a steep rock, in the midst of the Lee. A bridge on either side connects it with the banks of the river, whence the castle derives its designation, ( signifying the Rock of the Bridge. The Lee foams and rushes in a turbulent current around the rock on which it is built ; and the spectator is impressed at once with the strength and romantic effect of its position. Its site is said to have been chosen by the lovely Una O'Carroll, to gratify whose caprice, her lover, Diarmid

    28 TH« RIVER LEE.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 11

30. Clancarty estates forfeited after siege of Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1690

    After the surrender of Cork in 1690, the extensive Clancarty estates in Cork county were forfeited to the Crown as a consequence of the Jacobite defeat.

    Read the passage

    think, twelve or thirteen thrown into the town •while the siege lasted. The cannons from without roared, and they made a breach in the east Bide towards South Gate ; the then Duke of Grafton commanded the marines, and approached to Dunscombe's Marsh over the river, intending to storm at the breach ; and in all human probability had carried the town, but that he was mortally wounded from the walls, and so carried off, and died in about a week." The shot -which killed the Duke was fired by a blacksmith from a forge in Old Post Oilice-lane. After the surrender of Cork, the extensive Clancarty estates in the county were forfeited to the Crown,

    At the period of the siege the city occupied about a tenth of the space it now covers. Shortly after that event, the marshes of the city began to be reclaimed, and some improvements to be introduced, as will be seen by the following extract from the Council Book of the Corporation of Cork :~_" 30th of July, 1697. Ordered that Mr. Edward Richardson, according to proposalls by him given in this day to the Councill, for bringing in fresh water in pipes to every house in the City, who shall agree with him, have liberty according to his proposall, of breaking up tlia

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    Along this street, in 1690, a blacksmith working in a forge in Old Post Office Lane fired the shot that mortally wounded the Duke of Grafton during the siege of Cork. The Duke commanded the marines. The cannons from outside the walls had made a breach in the east side towards South Gate, and he approached across Dunscombe's Marsh over the river, intending to storm at the breach. In all human probability he would have carried the town, but he was mortally wounded from the walls. He was carried off and died in about a week. Twelve or thirteen shots were thrown into the town while the siege lasted, and the cannons from without roared. After the surrender of Cork, the extensive Clancarty estates in the county were forfeited to the Crown. At the time of the siege, the city occupied about a tenth of the space it would later cover. The blacksmith in the forge here is not named in the record, but the shot he fired changed the course of the assault.

31. Cork's patriotically named streets

    Cork · city · Cork · 1782

    Several Cork streets bear significative names commemorating political figures and events. Mulgrave Street recalls a popular viceroy, O'Connell Street honours the Irish tribune, Grattan Street struggles against the rival name of Admiral Duncan, George's Street honours the Second George, and Ireland Rising Liberty Street commemorates the Volunteers of 1782 whose first associations were formed in Cork.

    Read the passage

    great Irish tribune, while Grattan-etreet struggle* to maintain its glorious narae against the English patronymic of Admiral Duncan. George's- street is so styled after the enlightened Second George, •who complacently exclaimed, on being asked to accept a dedication from a hapless cultivator of the muses — " Ack, Gott ! I hates boets and boetry ;" and finally, " Ireland Rising Liberty Street," BO designated in commemoration of the Volunteers cf 1782, whose first Associations were formed in Cork.

    But how amazed would be the deluded traveller were b.6 shown the squares of Cork, of which there are nominally plenty — but such squares ! It would puzzle Sir Isaac Newton to make that geometrical figure out of them; and yet the Corkonians unconsciously mention then1 squares with as much complacency as if they had a real existence and were no myth ; thereby conveying to strangers the idea of a city of vast extent and magnificence. Their " park" is a similar imposition, being nothing more than a reclaimed marsh, on which there is not the shadow of a tree or even of a shrub. The good Cork folks have a firm faith that all these shams are realities, and it would be cruelty to disabuse them of a deception from which they seem to derive so much

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, the street names carry political memory. Mulgrave Street recalls a popular viceroy. O'Connell Street honours the great Irish tribune. Grattan Street struggles to maintain its glorious name against the English patronymic of Admiral Duncan. George's Street takes its name from the Second George, who, on being asked to accept a dedication from a hapless cultivator of the muses, exclaimed, "Ack, Gott! I hates boets and boetry." And there is Ireland Rising Liberty Street, so designated in commemoration of the Volunteers of 1782, whose first Associations were formed in Cork. These names map a city that remembers its political figures and events on every corner. But the naming habits of Cork extend further. The city boasts squares nominally plenty, yet it would puzzle Sir Isaac Newton to make that geometrical figure out of them. The Corkonians mention their squares with complacency, as if they had a real existence. Their park is a similar imposition, being nothing more than a reclaimed marsh, on which there is not the shadow of a tree or even of a shrub.

32. Cork's unprotected night watch

    Cork · city · Cork

    The streets of Cork at night are wholly unprotected, with safety entrusted to a few decrepit old men armed with poles topped by rusty bayonets. The night watchmen cry the hour in an incomprehensible howl that terrifies nervous people.

    Read the passage

    Another peculiarity of Cork cannot fail to excite the astonishment of strangers — namely, the wholly unprotected state of the streets at night. The safety of the city is then entrusted to a few decrepit old men, armed with poles surmounted by rusty bayonets. In leaving their lives and property thus exposed, the people of Cork evince a beautiful reliance on Providence, most affecting to contemplate in a distrustful and sophisticated age like ours.

    The nightly " guardians " of the city, when they do not happen to be drunk or asleep in doorways, cry the hour in a manner which renders it impossible to understand them. They make use of a peculiar howl which baffles all description. The following attempt to analyse it may convey some faint notion of the song/ used by one of these

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 39

33. Drake's Pool and the escape of Sir Francis Drake

    Drake's Pool · minor feature · Cork

    Drake's Pool in Cork Harbour is named after Sir Francis Drake, who hid there while the Spanish fleet searched for him in the outer harbour. The pool commemorates this escape.

    Read the passage

    Drake's Pool, so called to perpetuate the escape of Sir Francis Drake from the Spanish fleet, •which sought for him in the harbour outside, while he was safely hidden in the pool that bears his name. Ascending the river, a region of enchantment is unfolded to the view. The estuary: is enclosed by hills clothed from summit to base with magnificent trees, and, winding in its course,, forms a number of apparently land-locked lakes presenting the appearance of a miniature Rhine. Situated on its banks arc the fine demesnes of Coolmore and Iloddersfield, the favourite resorts of pic-nic parties from " the beautiful city." The once impregnable Castle of Carrigaline rose on an elevation near the village -t but not a vestige of it remains The ruins of Aghamarta Castle, formerly a keep of the Desmonds, are still visible on the banks of the river.

    Emerging from the Awnabuoy, we arrive in a few moments at the mouth of the harbour. The bold headlands on either side of it are crowned by the forts of Camden and Carlisle, the former to the right, the latter to the left, as you issue from the port. Standing on one of these heights, let us give one parting glance at the scene outspread before us. On one side extends the magnificent basin of the harbour, glassing its

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 44

34. Kilcrea Friary founded by Cormac M'Carthy Laider in 1465

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork · 1465

    Kilcrea Friary, named from the Irish Killa Crea meaning cemetery of St. Cera, was founded in 1465 by Cormac M'Carthy Laider, Lord of Muskerry, for Franciscans and dedicated to St. Bridget. The extensive ruins retain walls almost entire with an imposing appearance from the bridge.

    Read the passage

    trees. The Friary was founded in A.D., 1465, by Cormac M'C'artby Laider, Lord of Muskerry, for Franciscans, and was dedicated to St. Bridget. The ruins are extensive, and the walls still remaining almost entire, the Abbey has an impos • ing appearance when viewed from the bridge. On entering the ruins the effect is still further enhanced, and a feeling of religious awe inspired by the spreading aisles and transept, now unroofed and dismantled, where once sacred hymns •were intoned and fragrant incense rose to the fretted roof. Until lately, the entrance was lined on both sides by a grisly wall constructed of human bones and skulls. The nave is separated from the choir by a square belfry, eighty feet high, through which a round-headed archway communicates with the choir. The columns supporting the arches are round, low, and formed of solid masonry. From one of these columns four ribbed arches spring — an architectural peculiarity which distinguishes this building from all other structures of the kind. The mullions of the windows were destroyed by the sacriligious hands of Cromwell's troopers. A side aisle communicates with the nave by three pointed archways ; and at the right side of the nave a passage leads into a chantry. Two. massive pointed

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 13

35. Patrick's Bridge destroyed by flood of November 1853

    Cork · city · Cork · 1853

    Patrick's Bridge, described as well-proportioned and effective, was destroyed by the disastrous flood of November 1853. A temporary wooden bridge was erected nearby, and a new stone bridge of three arches was planned at an estimated cost of about £18,000.

    Read the passage

    The bridges have no pretension to architectural design. Patrick's Bridge, which was destroyed by the disastrous flood of November, 1853, was a well-proportioned and effective structure. A temporary wooden bridge has been erected near it, to be removed as soon as a new one shall have been constructed. The contemplated bridge is to be a stone one, of three arches, the cost of which is estimated at about £18,000. Professor Ilennessy, late of the Queen's College, having prove* I the bridges on the North channel to be the principal cause of floods in the flat of the city, it was resolved to remove that known as North Gate Bridge, and to replace it by a one-arched bridge. The quays of Cork are solid and well-built. They are formed of cut limestone and cost, including the expense of their construction in 1825,

    THE PUBLIC CTA1UE?. £9

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you're in the city where Patrick's Bridge once stood. It was a well-proportioned and effective structure, destroyed by the disastrous flood of November 1853. A temporary wooden bridge went up near it, to be removed once a new bridge was built. The plan was for a stone bridge of three arches, estimated at about £18,000. Professor Hennessy, late of the Queen's College, proved that the bridges on the North channel were the principal cause of floods in the flat of the city. Because of that, it was resolved to remove the bridge known as North Gate Bridge and replace it with a one-arched bridge. The quays of Cork are solid and well-built, formed of cut limestone, with the expense of their construction in 1825 included.

36. Queen's College Cork and its institutional struggles

    Cork · city · Cork

    The Queen's College in Cork has not been successful despite a practical curriculum and ample facilities. Causes include discountenance from the Catholic Church, internal dissensions among professors, and appointment practices favoring mediocre English or Scottish candidates over able Irishmen. The annual grant of £8,600 educates only a few students.

    Read the passage

    The almost constant absence of Sir Robert Kane from the College has been also considered as a principal cause of its present state; but we do not think this has any material influence in its production — the causes already enumerated being fully sufficient to account for it. It is, therefore, in no -wise surprising tjfct the Cork College, despite a curriculum expressly arranged to meet the requirements of our " practical" age, and although amply provided with all the appliances requisite to impart superior instruction, has not been hitherto successful ; and, were it net for the number of scholarships and prizes, as well as the government patronage at its disposal, it is indubitable that the Munster branch of the Queen's University would be an absolute failure. As it is, the annual grant of £8,600, is expended for the education of a few students.

    Ere quitting the subject, we may remark that, although a chair of Celtic literature has been established in the College, it would seem to be a mere pretence of nationality, no provision whatever having been made for its working. Practically, it is the veriest sham ; and hence the learned professor who fills the chair finds his .situation a sinecure — having had no class, because no encouragement has been given for its

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 21

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you pass through the city that holds Queen's College, the Munster branch of the Queen's University. The college has not been a success. It had a curriculum arranged for a practical age and all the appliances needed to teach, but it has struggled. The causes have been counted already: the Catholic Church would not countenance it, the professors fought among themselves, and appointments favored mediocre English and Scottish candidates over able Irishmen. Some blamed the almost constant absence of Sir Robert Kane, but the author did not think that mattered much. The other causes were enough. Were it not for the scholarships, prizes, and government patronage, the Munster branch would be, in the author's words, "an absolute failure." The annual grant of £8,600 is spent on the education of a few students. A chair of Celtic literature was established in the college, but it was, in the author's view, "a mere pretence of nationality." No provision was made for its working. The professor found it a sinecure. He had no class, because no encouragement had been given for one.

37. Carvagh hill near Inniscarra and the toper Dowe

    Inishcarra · parish · Cork

    A partly wooded, partly uncultivated hill called Carvagh, meaning 'the barren ground,' rises behind the church of Inniscarra. Local tradition holds that it was once the property of a man named Dowe, a heavy drinker of the 'good old times,' who reportedly drank the land away acre by acre.

    Read the passage

    joins the Lee. Near their junction, rising behind the church of Inniscarra, is a partly wooded and partly uncultivated hill called Carvagh, or the barren ground, once the property of a thirsty soul named Dowe, a toper of the " good old times," who drank it acre by acre.

    The Lee, now increased by the junction with the Bride, winds at the base of Carvagh, in an easterly course, in view of the village of Ballincollig. Here are extensive military barracks for artillery and cavalry, and also a constabulary barrack. Here also are manufactured large quantities of gunpowder, in the powdermills belonging to Sir Thomas Tobin, who thus affords considerable employment to the people of the vicinage.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 16

38. Cemetery of Gougane Barra

    near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

    Near the causeway on the southern shore of Gougane Barra lake is a burial place consisting of lowly mounds without stones or inscriptions. Windele describes how the number of graves and the small extent of ground reflect a thinly-peopled mountain country, yet the site affords as saddening a field for contemplation as any grand cemetery.

    Read the passage

    " Where heaves the turf in many a mould'ring heap. " Mr Windele, who gives a faithful and admirable description of Gougaune Barra, in his " South of Ireland" — abook which we recommend to all tourists in the South — thus describes the cemetery of Gougaune : — " At a short distance, on a little green eminence, a few lowly mounds without stone or inscriptions point out the simple burying-place of the district ; their number, and the small extent of ground covered, give at a glance the census and the condition of a thinlypeopled mountain country ; and yet, this unpretending spot is as effectually the burial place of human hopes, and feelings, and passions, of feverish anxieties, of sorrows and agitations — it affords as saddening a field for contemplation — as if it covered the space, and were decked out with

    8 THK RIVER LEE.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 4

39. Grafton's Alley and the death of the Duke of Grafton, 1690

    Cork · city · Cork · 1690

    Grafton's Alley in Cork is named after the young Duke of Grafton, natural son of Charles II, who was killed there during the siege of the city in 1690. The location was at that time an open marsh.

    Read the passage

    Unlike Dublin, Cork has but few streets with any significative name, and fewer still called after patriotic Irishmen. These are easily enumerated ; Grafton's Alley, so called after the young Duke of Grafton, natural son of Charles II,, who was killed there during the siege of the city in 1690. It was then an open marsh. Mulgrave-street, so named to commemorate the visit of Lord Mulgrave so popular during his viceroyalty. O'Connell-street preserves the memory of the

    58 THE RIVER LEE.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 23

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, one narrow lane keeps a memory from 1690. Grafton's Alley takes its name from the young Duke of Grafton, a natural son of Charles II, who was killed there during the siege of the city. At that time the spot was an open marsh.

40. Queen's College Cork opened in 1849

    Cork · city · Cork · 1849–1858

    Queen's College Cork was opened in November 1849, the President delivering an inaugural address that gained notoriety through a blundering Italian translation, leading to the case of Angeli v. Galbraith. Despite some distinguished students, the College had not made much progress in numbers and had been retrograding of late.

    Read the passage

    The College has been now nine years in existence, having been opened in Nov., 1849, on'urhich occasion the President delivered an inaugural address, which subsequently obtained considerable notoriety by a blundering Italian translation, whence originated the case of " Angcli v. Galbraith," arising out of the dismissal of the former from his professorship in Trinity College.* Since that time the College has not made much progress, as regards the number of students, although many of them have highly distinguished themselves. Two of its eleves, Messrs. C. Daly and R. Wall, obtained appointments in

    * The President desired to have the address translated into Italian, in order to disabuse the heads of the Church in Italy of the unfavourable notions they had formed of the Queen • Colleges. It was, therefore, entrusted to Signor Angeli, the Italian Professor of Trinity College, who was prenuiaed to be a perfect master of that language. Howhe execatod th« task may be inferred from the evidence of Mr. Panizzi, the Librarian of the British Museum, one of the most eminent Italian scholars of the day, who swore, in the case "referred to above, that the translation was not Italian at all. The following apposite lines (slightly mo-

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you are near Queen's College, which opened in November 1849. The President delivered an inaugural address on that occasion that became notorious for a remarkable reason. He wanted the address translated into Italian to correct the unfavourable notions the heads of the Church in Italy had formed of the Queen's Colleges. The task was given to Signor Angeli, the Italian professor at Trinity College, who was supposed to be a perfect master of the language. The translation was so poor that Mr. Panizzi, the Librarian of the British Museum and one of the most eminent Italian scholars of the day, swore in court that the translation was not Italian at all. This led to the case of Angeli v. Galbraith, arising out of Angeli's dismissal from his professorship in Trinity College. By 1858 the college had been nine years in existence but had not made much progress in the number of students, though many had highly distinguished themselves. Two of its students, C. Daly and R. Wall, obtained appointments, but the college had been retrograding of late.

41. Spike Island convict depot and fortifications

    Spike Island · townland · Cork

    Spike Island served as a natural breakwater in Cork Harbour and was used as a convict depot holding approximately 800 malefactors. The convicts were chiefly employed on the fortifications, which were described as being in a very effective and formidable condition.

    Read the passage

    Mild admirable breakwater. It is used as a convict depot, and holds at present about 800 malefactors, who are chiefly employed on the fortifi^ cations which are now in a very effective and formidable condition. Near the south-eastern extremity of the harbour is the embouchure of a stream which leads through beautiful scenery to the East Ferry, Ballinaclirraj and Midleton* At the opposite side afe the rich plantations of Aghada, containing Rostellan, lately the seat of the Marquess of Thomond. The O'Briens of Thomond were among the first of the native princes who espoused the English interests, and their estates were gifts made by the crown of the lands of the more patriotic chieftains who refused to yield, and were driven into exile* By a strange revolution in the wheel of fate, these estates, after the lapse of three centuries, have come once more into the ownership of some of the lineal descendants of the original proprie* tors in the County of Clare. l"he fine estate of Rostellan was recently sold lit the Encumbered Estates Court, and was within an ace of being purchased by John Amott, Esq., a benevolent nnd highly esteemed citizen of Cork.*

    * The Encumbered Estate* Court has effected a complete ^rvi.il revolution In Ireland, the effects of which arc already beginning to be felt. To give an idea of the extent of ifc

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 43

42. 1736 description of Cork attorneys at police office

    Cork · city · Cork · 1736

    A writer on Cork in 1736 described the behaviour of attorneys in the city, noting their habit of trying to badger magistrates into ill-judged decisions by relentless prattling. The author observes that this description still applies to local practitioners of the present day.

    Read the passage

    The unrestrained license of the attornies who practise in the local police-office is another characteristic of the place. Not only do they apply very warm epithets to each other, but they often set at nought the decision of the bench, and even lecture the presiding magistrates on their duty. Noticing these peculiarities, a writer on Cork, in 1736, says — " Attorneys have, in this city, one other confounded humour, which should be pe* muptorily checked by the bench, which is an attempt to worry their worships into an ill* judgement by prattling them out of their appre* hensions. Impertinent babblers often continue to wrangle after the case is decided, like some fellows who hold by a bond when the debt has been paid." This description applies iii every point to some of the local practitioners of the present day. And, apropos, the Munster capital is blessed with a superabundance of young solicitors and medical men — a fact which may be accounted for by another — namely, that, lacking

    112 THE RIVER LEE.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 35

43. Great bog of Kilcrea, refuge for wolves and Tories

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    The great bog of Kilcrea was, thirty years before Smith's time, a refuge for wolves and Tories, to the terror and annoyance of the neighbouring country. It was subsequently drained and reclaimed, as described in a work on agriculture by one of the Rykes of Ryke Court.

    Read the passage

    retaarkable instance of which is mentioned by Dr. Smith. He says that on the high road, near Dunusky, a stone was set up, on which was an inscription in Irish, inviting all passengers to the house of Mr. Edward M 'Sweeny for lodging and refreshment. This stone was subsequently removed by a less generous member of the sept, who, it is said, never prospered after. After passing the ruins of Castlemore, formerly a keep of the M'Carthies, the Bride flows through a fertile tract of grazing land, about one hundred and fifty years ago a vast morass. This was the great bog of Kilcrea, which Smith characterises as being, thirty years before his time, a refuge for wolves and " Tories," to the terror and annoyance of the neighbouring country. He also quotes from a work on agriculture by one of the Ryes of Rye Court, some curious particulars regarding the draining and reclamation of these bogs.

    Kilcrea Abbey, or, more correctly speaking, Friary, is situated on a gently rising slope above the Bride, about eleven miles west of Cork. Its name is derived from the Irish Killa Crea, which signifies the cemetery of St. Cera. An antiquated bridge crosses the river close to the Abbey, the entrance to which is shaded by a fine avenue of

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 13

44. Keimaneigh Pass on the road from Ballingeary

    near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

    A narrow road from the village of Ballingeary skirts the base of a steep hill to reach the Pass of Keimaneigh. Beyond the head of the pass, a bend in the road reveals a wildly grand and stern mountain landscape enclosing the lake of Gougane Barra.

    Read the passage

    of a steep hill, leads to the Pass of Keiinaneigh. A little beyond the head of the Pass, a bend in the road suddenly discloses a scene more wildly grand and stern than picturesque. Bare and precipitous mountains bound the view on all sides, and enclose a tranquil sheet of water which sleeps within their rugged embrace, " like a woman in a warrior's arms." This is the sacred lake of Gougaune Barra, the source of the River Lee.* The mountains which encircle the cradle of the infant Lee divide the counties of Cork and Kerry, and the lake is formed by the mountain rills that descend their sides. It is oblong in shape, and near its centre arises a small island, connected with the southern shore of the lake by a narrow causeway. This island is overshadowed by venerable ash trees, which a useful superstition has preserved, at least from the hand of man.

    On the island are the ruins of the chapel and of the hermit's cell, whence the place derives its •anctity. In this lone retreat St. Finnbar,f who

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 2

45. Kilcrea Castle: Clancarty sept keep near the Friary

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    A square tower seventy feet high, built by the founder of Kilcrea Friary and once a keep of the Clancarty sept. The bawn and moat still exist, though the barbicans and outworks are ruined; the interior is bare and gloomy with a flight of marble steps leading to the summit.

    Read the passage

    A little to the west of the Friary, higher up the stream, stands the Castle of Kilcrea. It was once a keep of the Clancarty sept, and the date • ••f it* erection is coeval with that of the Friary, by whose founder it was built. It is a square tower, seventy feet high, and .still in a good i-t.-itc of preservation. The bawn and moat etill exist ; liit the barbicans and outworks ar«

    KlLCREA CASTLE* 4t

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 16

46. King's Theatre in Tuckey Street, Cork

    Tuckey Street · street · Cork

    The Apollo Society, actively assisted by Milliken, held amateur theatrical performances at the King's Theatre in Tuckey Street. The theatre is described as 'now no more.' Notable performers included Frank Seymour and Miss Smithson, who later achieved fame acting in Paris.

    Read the passage

    • — lias been at a discount in Cork. Tha city was once famous for its amateur histrionics. Of these the Apollo Society was the most conspicuous. Milliken actively assisted In its formation, and the society comprised most of the choice spirits of Cork. Their performances were held in the King's Theatre in Tnckey- street, now no more. The late well-known Frank Seymour ("peace be with thee, " Chouse f) was one of the principal performers, and convulsed his audience both by his ranting and amusing blunders.* Among the lady performers was Miss Smithson, a very beautiful girl, who subsequently won the hearts of the Parisians at the Odeon, by the grace of her acting and the loveliness of her person.

    The Corkonians are passionately fond of music ; and while even dramatic stars will fail "to draw," a third-rate opera company will attract large audiences. In almost every house you will hear the notes of a piano ; while at night the air is resonant with those of the accordian,. played by the honest 'prentice boys of Cork, for

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 35

47. Potato blight devastates the Irish leather trade

    Cork · city · Cork · 1845–1846

    The leather trade across Ireland was almost extinguished by the potato blight of 1845–6, but had since recovered by the time of writing. In Cork, tanning and currying were carried on extensively, with sole-leather from Cork long considered the best in Ireland.

    Read the passage

    the Messrs. Murphy. The chief tanners arc. D. Murphy and Sons, Sir William Hackett, and the Messrs. Ilcgarty. The leather trade was almost extinguished in Ireland by the potato blight of 1845-6, but has since quite recovered While 011 this subject, we may remark that tanning and currying are carried on very extensively in the rity, while the sole-leather manufactured in Cork has been long considered the best in Ireland. Within the past ten years, the Messrs. Ilegarty have produced finished calfskin and upper leather which will bear comparison with the best manufactured in Bordeaux.

    Of the monster drapery establishments, that of Fitzgibbon and Co. (the Queen's Old Castle) is the most extensive. Among these are also the fine concerns of Messrs Carmichael and Co. who have recently enlarged their establishment ; Thomas Lyons and Co., Ogilvie and Co., and M"-M-.S. Arnott and Co., who afford considerable employment in the city by the making 6f knitted pulka jackets, silk nets, and caps, crotchet work, gloves, and several other articles which they ship to various countries.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 28

48. Royal Cork Institution: antiquated building with neglected museum and Ogham stones

    Cork · city · Cork · 1802

    The Royal Cork Institution, founded in 1802, occupied an antiquated red brick building in an unfrequented part of Cork city. Its interior contained a lecture room, a neglected museum, a library of about 13,000 scientific books, and a hall embellished with mutilated Ogham inscriptions, whale rib-bones, and old stones. The institution was established by noblemen and gentlemen to diffuse science among the community and received a Parliamentary grant of £2,000 per annum.

    Read the passage

    The building is an antiquated fabric of cling}' red brick, and is situated in an unfrequented part of the city. Its interior comprises a lecture room, a small and neglected museum, a library containing about 1 3,000 books, chiefly scientific, and a hall embellished with several mutilated Ogham inscriptions, some rib-bones of whale.*, old stones, and other interesting objects. A few years since this hall was also adorned with a venerable shark, from whose abdomen protruded a bundle of musty straw — a spectacle at once novel and imposing.

    The Institution was founded in 1802, by a number of noblemen and gentlemen with a view to the diffusion of science among the community generally. A charter of incorporation was afterwards obtained, as also a Parliamentary grant of £2,000 per annum, subsequently increased to £2,500,

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, there is the Royal Cork Institution, founded in 1802 by noblemen and gentlemen to spread science among the community. It sits in an unfrequented part of the city, an antiquated red brick building. Inside there is a lecture room, a small and neglected museum, and a library of about 13,000 books, chiefly scientific. A hall is embellished with mutilated Ogham inscriptions, whale rib-bones, old stones, and other interesting objects. A few years before, that hall also held a venerable shark, with a bundle of musty straw protruding from its abdomen, a spectacle the source calls at once novel and imposing. The institution received a charter of incorporation and a Parliamentary grant of 2,000 pounds per annum, later increased to 2,500.

49. William Penn converted to Quakerism in Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1649

    Around 1649, William Penn, the celebrated founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in Cork after accidentally hearing a sermon from a member of that sect. This was during the period when Cork declared for Parliament, intimidated by Cromwell's approach.

    Read the passage

    Intimidated by the approach of Cromwell, the city declared for the Parliament in 1649, about which time William Penn, the celebrated founder of Pensylvania, became a convert to Quakerism, in Cork, after having accidentally heard a sermon from a member of that sect. In 1688, General M'Carthy took possession of the city for James II., who made a public entry into Cork the following year, after having landed at Kinsale.

    The siege of Cork, by Maryborough, and the Ihike of Wirtemburgh, in September, 1690, is the most important historical event connected with the city. Nature has precluded Cork by its position from ever becoming a place of military strength. Surrounded by steep hills, it must inevitably be at the mercy of an enemy who obtains possession of them ; and so, despite its embattled wails at the period of the siege, it held out but five days against an army much inferior iu numerical strength to that which had unsuccessfully attacked Limerick a few weeks before.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 26

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Cork, this is the city where William Penn, the celebrated founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism. It happened around 1649, after he accidentally heard a sermon from a member of that sect. That same year, intimidated by the approach of Cromwell, the city declared for the Parliament. Later, in 1688, General M'Carthy took possession of the city for James the Second, who made a public entry into Cork the following year, after having landed at Kinsale. The siege of Cork in September 1690 by Maryborough and the Duke of Württemberg is the most important historical event connected with the city. Nature has precluded Cork from ever becoming a place of military strength. Surrounded by steep hills, it must inevitably be at the mercy of an enemy who obtains possession of them. Despite its embattled walls at the period of the siege, it held out but five days against an army much inferior in numerical strength to that which had unsuccessfully attacked Limerick a few weeks before.

50. Vatican casts redeemed and transferred to the Old Custom House, Cork

    Cork · city · Cork · 1831

    A collection of plaster casts taken from the finest Grecian and Roman art in the Vatican was gifted by Pope Pius VII to the Prince Regent, who gave them to Lord Ennismore for presentation to the Cork Society of Arts. When that society went bankrupt and the casts were about to be sold, the Royal Cork Institution redeemed them for £300 and transferred them to the Old Custom House, which they had obtained a grant for in 1831.

    Read the passage

    but the casts were retained by the architect in compensation for a debt incurred by him in fitting tip the hall. Hearing that they were about to be advertised for sale, the proprietors of the Cork Institution immediately redeemed them for a sum of £300, and had them transferred to the Old Custom House, a grant of which they had previously obtained in 1831.

    Owing, however, to religious and political sectarianism— that perpetual bane of our country, instilling its virus into every phase of Irish society — the noble objects for which the Cork Institution was established, and which were carried out at first with vigour and success, were almost wholly neutralised. The government, finding that no commensurate benefit accrued to the public, gradually reduced the annual grant until 1830, when it was entirely withdrawn.* Since then the institution has had a languishing existence, and is at present chiefly supported by the medical faculty of Cork.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 29

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you are near the Old Custom House, where a collection of plaster casts taken from the finest Grecian and Roman art in the Vatican ended up. Pope Pius VII gifted them to the Prince Regent, who gave them to Lord Ennismore for presentation to the Cork Society of Arts. The casts were retained by an architect in compensation for a debt he incurred fitting up the hall. When they were about to be advertised for sale, the proprietors of the Cork Institution redeemed them for 300 pounds and had them transferred to the Old Custom House, a grant of which they had obtained in 1831. The institution's noble aims were then almost wholly neutralised by religious and political sectarianism. The government gradually reduced its annual grant until 1830, when it was entirely withdrawn. Since then the institution has had a languishing existence, chiefly supported by the medical faculty of Cork.

51. Butter trade as staple commerce of Cork from 1633

    Cork · city · Cork · 1633–1853

    Butter was first shipped in firkins from Cork in 1633 and became the staple trade and principal source of the city's wealth. By the mid-1850s, over 400,000 firkins per year were received at the Cork Market, representing about £1,500,000 in capital.

    Read the passage

    »Latistic.«,s ho'.ving the increase of this important trade cannot be uninteresting, we may mention that in 1633 batter was first shipped in firkins from Cork. In 1806, the expert of butter amounted to 1CO,000 cwts. In 1835, 279,000 firkins were exported ; in 1S30, 340,826 firkin?, and in tlie year ending August, 1353, 345.::.^ firkins, exclusive of kegs Besides supplying tho English markets, tlie Cork exporters ship to Australia, the West Indies, alid Lisbon. To show how considerably the trade has increased, we inay mention that a few years since the 'average yearly receipt of butter at the Cork Market did not exceed 280,000 firkins; while the quantity received for the last two years amounted to over 400,000 firkins each year* representing an amount of capital equal to about £1.500,000,

    Tine export trade of Cork is now chiefly carried on, and its mercantile repute sustained by the eminent firms of John Gould and Co.> Bnrkc Brothers. Honan, Hardy, Adam?, Iloddev,, Sugrue, Clare, and P Murphy and Son. Mr. Pike and I\Cessrs. Lecky and Bealc have extensive dock-yards on the river, in which they have constructed several first-class iron *hips. The tics of tac trade of Cork, however, bung

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    Cork grew rich on butter. The trade began in 1633, when butter was first shipped in firkins from the city. By 1806 the export reached 100,000 hundredweight. In 1835, 279,000 firkins were exported, and the numbers kept climbing. By the year ending August 1853, the figure stood at over 345,000 firkins, not counting kegs. Cork exporters shipped beyond England to Australia, the West Indies, and Lisbon. A few years before, the average yearly receipt at the Cork Market had not exceeded 280,000 firkins. For the last two years it had risen to over 400,000 firkins each year, representing capital of about £1,500,000. The export trade was carried on by firms such as John Gould and Co., Burke Brothers, Honan, Hardy, Adams, Sugrue, Clare, and P Murphy and Son. Mr. Pike and Messrs. Lecky and Beale had extensive dock-yards on the river, where they built first-class iron ships.

52. Cork Court House: praised externally, condemned internally

    Cork · city · Cork · 1835

    The Court House was built in 1835 at a cost of £20,000. While praised for its external beauty, it was repeatedly criticized by judges of Assize for its internal construction, temperature, and arrangements, with each judge's suggested changes condemned by the next.

    Read the passage

    going judge of Assize, as well as to builder?, who have of course no interest in alterations. Its happy lot has been that the changes suggested by one judge have been condemned, as a matter of course, by the next. Its temperature, . and internal arrangements, have ever been the subject of complaint and qucrelous remonstrances, especially from lawyers and attornies whose lives arc so precious to the public. We doubt whether a Iluskin would be able to convert the courts of this unfortunate building into comfortable and satisfactory kails of justice. It was built in 1835 at a cost of £20,000.

    The Mansion House is a plain, substantial edifice, erected in 17G7. As an Instance of the changes wrought by time, this building, so many years the scene of corporate festivities, has been converted into an hospital under the charge of the Sisters of Mercy. Apropos of the Mansion House, it is worthy of mention that the Mayors of Cork were entitled by virtue of the office to dispose of the city refuse, and that the city scavengers were appointed- by the Corporation; an office, strange to say, generally held by respectable citizens about the middle of the last oentury.* A clause in the charter of Queen

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, you are near the Court House, built in 1835 at a cost of 20,000 pounds. Externally it drew praise, but its internal construction told a different story. Judges of Assize came year after year and found fault with the temperature, the internal arrangements, the very layout of the courts. Lawyers and attornies added their complaints to the chorus. The unhappy lot of the building was that the changes suggested by one judge were condemned, as a matter of course, by the next. No sooner was one remedy proposed than the succeeding judge arrived and reversed it. The author of the passage doubted whether even a Ruskin could have converted the courts of this unfortunate building into comfortable and satisfactory halls of justice. The outside earned its admiration. The inside never rested from complaint and querulous remonstrance, especially from those whose lives were, as the writer put it, so precious to the public.

53. Cork Scientific and Literary Society and the old Lyceum debates

    Cork · city · Cork · 1811

    The Cork Scientific and Literary Society held weekly debates and was a revival of the older 'Lyceum,' which charged ten pence for admission. Sample debate questions from 1811 reveal topics centring on love, liberty, and the condition of men versus women, showing the character of intellectual life in Cork.

    Read the passage

    The Cork Scientific and Literary Society holds weekly debates, and is a revival of the old " Lyceum." A fee often pence was charged for admission to the latter ; and as a specimen oi the subjects discussed there, we extract the following from an old Cork newspaper: — Question for Tuesday evening, March 21, 1811 — "Which hu> the love of liberty er the love of women the greater influence on the noble mind ?" Question for Saturday, April Gr 1811— "Did Pope libel the fair sex when he stated that ' every woman is at heart a rake?'" Question for Saturday, March 30, 1811—" Which is the condition of men or women in these countries the happier V" From the nature of these questions it is evident that women ran very much in the heads of a former generation of the Corkonians.

    We reserve for the next chapter some other noticeable traits of the natives of the city of fun, frolic, pigs puns, butter and blarney, brogue and. !jrn«<, charming girls, and " odd fishes.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 35

54. Filthy streets and offal heaps in nineteenth-century Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    Despite Cork's many flowing streams, its streets were filthy, with heaps of offal over which hungry dogs fought, and pestilent sinks where half-naked children played. The author notes uncleanliness seems to have always been indigenous to the city.

    Read the passage

    weekly dancing reunions, called " drums," referred to by Dr. Smith, in his quaint amusing way. Within the last thirty years the city has extended rapidly, covering the sides of the surrounding hills with stately terraces and villas. But, though blessed, like Damascus, with many flowing streams, its streets are even more filthy than those of the Pearl of Islam. In many of the thoroughfares aro to be found heaps of offal, over which at times hungry curs growl and fi~ht undisturbed, or pestilent sinks, wherein half nuda brats ^dabble ecstatically. Nor is uncleanliness a new feature in Cork ; it seems to have been always inseparable from and indigenous to it. Fynes Morrison, who wrote about Ireland in the year 1600, says : — " Even in the best city, as at Cork, I have observed that my own, as well as other Englishmen's chambers, hired of the citizens, were scarce swept cnce in a week, and the dust, then laid in a corner, was, perhaps, cast cut once in a month or two." This statement should, however, be received with some limitation, as, in point of veracity, the writer might be termed the Cambrensis of the 17th century. Samuel Derrick, writing to Lord Cork, in 1760, ssys : — •' I scarcely need inform your lordship that thij city is nine or tea miles from the sea that the

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 27

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Cork now. Despite its many flowing streams, the streets here have long been filthy. The author compares the city to Damascus, saying Cork's streets are even more filthy than those of the Pearl of Islam. In many of the thoroughfares you could find heaps of offal, over which hungry dogs growl and fight undisturbed. There were pestilent sinks where half-naked children dabble ecstatically. Uncleanliness is not a new feature in Cork. It seems to have been always inseparable from and indigenous to it. Fynes Morrison, who wrote about Ireland in the year 1600, said even in the best city, as at Cork, he had observed that his own as well as other Englishmen's chambers, hired of the citizens, were scarce swept once in a week, and the dust, then laid in a corner, was perhaps cast out once in a month or two. The author notes this statement should be received with some limitation, saying in point of veracity the writer might be termed the Cambrensis of the 17th century. Samuel Derrick, writing to Lord Cork in 1760, scarcely needed to inform his lordship that the city is nine or ten miles from the sea.

55. Post-Union extinction of Cork manufactures

    Cork · city · Cork

    At the period of the Union, large numbers were employed in Cork across cotton manufacture, cloth-weaving, wool-combing, paper-making, glass-blowing, and tanning. All of these industries became extinct within ten years of the Act of Union, dealing a severe blow to the city's economy.

    Read the passage

    The limits of this work preclude us from doing more than giving a rapid glance at the commercial career of the city. Its developmen t was rapidly promoted by the American war of independence, which made the harbour a rendezvous for vessels of war and fleets of merchantmen, chiefly bound for the West Indies. At the period of the Union, numbers were employed in Cork in the various branches of cotton manufacture, cloth-weaving, wool-combing, papermaking, glass-blowing, and tanning, all of which became extinct within ten years after tire passing of the act. Her commerce again revived towards the close of the great French war, Cork having obtained contracts for victualling the navy, which gave a great impulse to her mercantile prosperity. One of her merchants, Daniel Csflagh&n, senior,

    72 THE RIVER 1E£.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 28

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Cork, think on what this city made and lost. The American War of Independence boosted Cork's commerce, turning the harbour into a rendezvous for warships and merchant fleets bound for the West Indies. At the time of the Union, people here worked in cotton manufacture, cloth-weaving, wool-combing, paper-making, glass-blowing, and tanning. All of these trades became extinct within ten years after the passing of the Act. Commerce revived towards the close of the great French war, when Cork obtained contracts for victualling the navy, giving a great impulse to mercantile prosperity. One of her merchants, Daniel Csflaghan, senior, is named in the record.

56. Private musical concerts tradition in Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    Dr. Smith, writing nearly a century before publication, described private concerts in Cork where gentleman and lady performers showed such skill that one might imagine the god of music had leapt from the Continent to Ireland. Such private musical reunions persisted in Cork until some few years before the book's writing.

    Read the passage

    the delectation of its music-loving public. The very urchins in the street (and clever-faced little fellows they are) will surprise you by whistling an air from a new opera with perfect taste and accuracy. This love of music would seem to be hereditary in the Corkonians. Adverting to this tasto, nearly a century ago, Dr. Smith says : — " Besides the public concerts, there are several private ones, where the performers are gentlemen and ladies, of such good skill, that one would imagine the god of music had taken a large stride from the Continent over England to this island." Private musical reunions, such as'jthcse existed in Cork until within some few years past ; but, we believe, none is in being at present.

    Cork has produced some eminent musicians and composers. Among the latter is A. D. Roche, and among the former the late W. Forde (who was an exquisite performer on the flute), Mr. Bowden, the late Dr. Willcs, the late Recorder Waggett, and W. Gillespie The music and singing in the churches of Cork are very superior.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 35

57. Sheehy Mountains panoramic view

    Shehy Mountains · mountain or mountain range · Cork

    The Sheehy Mountains rise in the distance near Inchegeela, and from their summit there is a splendid view over the surrounding country.

    Read the passage

    Unknown to the sunbeam." The road to Bantry winds along the northern shore of the lake. A little further clown we come to Inchegeela. Here the Lee separates into a succession of tarns, the picturesque appearance of which relieves the wild and uncultivated aspect of the surrounding country. In Dr. Smith's time, the char abounded in the lakes of Inchegeela ; but they have been since exterminated by that omniverous enemy of epicures, the pike. Formerly, some metallic cubes, yellow and shining like gold, were found in this district, and metallic ores have, from time to time, been washed out of the adjacent rocks during floods. Owing to the rocky bed over which the Lee flows, its stream is, for the most part, clear and sparkling as far as Inchegeela. The village of Inchegeela possesses a fine Roman Catholic Church, a constabulary station, &c. The second bridge that crosses the Lee spans the stream at this place. In the distance rise the Sheehy mountains, from whose summit is a splendid view.

    About a mile from Inchegeela is the Castle of Carrignacurra, or the Weir Rock, sometimes called Castle Masters, after a modern proprietor. It rises boldly from a cliff over the river, and is still in tolerably good preservation. It is surrounded

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 7

58. Ballincollig: military barracks and gunpowder mills

    near Ballincollig · town · Cork

    Ballincollig, on the Lee, contained extensive military barracks for artillery and cavalry, a constabulary barrack, and large gunpowder mills belonging to Sir Thomas Tobin. The mills afforded considerable employment to the people of the vicinity.

    Read the passage

    The Lee, now increased by the junction with the Bride, winds at the base of Carvagh, in an easterly course, in view of the village of Ballincollig. Here are extensive military barracks for artillery and cavalry, and also a constabulary barrack. Here also are manufactured large quantities of gunpowder, in the powdermills belonging to Sir Thomas Tobin, who thus affords considerable employment to the people of the vicinage.

    About a mile from the town is Ballincollig Castle, once a fortress of the Barretts.* It was garrisoned by Cromwell and James LL It is of considerable antiquity, being generally supposed to date from the reign of Edward III. The

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 16

59. Kelcrea Castle: Barretts' fortified stronghold on the Lee

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    Kelcrea Castle, a quadrangular fortress flanked by towers, stands on an isolated rock in a plain. The Barretts, an influential and predatory clan, used its fortified bawn to secure cattle captured in their raids and forays.

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    castle is of quadrangular form, and was formerlyflanked by towers at each angle. It is built on an isolated rock, of moderate elevation, ia the midst of a plain. The Barretts were an influential and predator}' clan ; hence the bawn in which they kept the cattle captured in their forays or raids was well fortified by two towers. The thickness of its walls and the strength of its defences attest the purpose for which it was built, and prove it to have been erected in those feudal times when men were guided solely by the simple rule —

    " That they should take, who have the power, And they should keep, who can."

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 17

60. Kilcrea Friary's bare ruins and ballad of former hospitality

    Kilcrea · townland · Cork

    The ruins of Kilcrea Friary are described as bare and inhospitable, with wind moaning through crumbling cloisters. A celebrated ballad, 'The Monks of Kilcrea,' records the former hospitality of the holy brotherhood, who freely lodged any passerby for a week without charge.

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    And now a bare inhospitable ruin meets the eye of the wayfarer ; wliile in place of friendly welcomings, he hears the wind meaning drearily through its crumbling cloisters, as chaunting a dirge for the past, and wailing f^r the happy time that s^-ill return no mere. Life and Thought have departed from it, giving place to Ruin and Death — grira tenants who have taken a lease of it for ever.

    40 Tiifc invr.ij LEE.

    Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 16