Name: The river Lee, Cork, and the Corkonians
Author: Bryan A Cody

King's Castle and Queen's Old Castle guarded Cork's port

Cork · city · Cork

Foreign vessels trading with Cork were received in a canal near Castle-street, enclosed by a portcullis between the King's Castle (on the site of the old Police Office in Market-street) and the Queen's Old Castle. This arrangement gave rise to the city arms depicting a ship between two castles.

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exported staves, hide?, fish, skins, and wool. All the traffic was carried on in foreign bottoms ; for Cork, in the reign of Elizabeth, only possessed a few fishing barques ; nor were there warehouses established for the reception of merchandise, and every trader, therefore, brought his goods at his own risk, and disposed of them in the best manner he could from on board his vessel."* Foreign vessels were received in a canal near Castle-street, and were enclosed by a portcullis, between the King's Castle, on the site of the old Police Office in Market-street, and the Queen's Old Castle, which occupied the site of the monster establishment still retaining its name. Hence originated the city arms ; a ship between two castles, with the Virgilian motto (a little altered) : static benejida carinis.
The names of Roche, Skiddy, Gould, Terry, Gnlway, Sarsfield, Meade, Morrogh, and Coppinger, were common among the inhabitants of Cork for centuries, and their descendants rank among its leading citizens at present. They were, withal, a sturdy and independent race of men. A message having been sent them by the Lord Deputy desiring them to proclaim James I., they treated the messenger with great indig-

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 26

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, the harbour here was once guarded by two castles. In the reign of Elizabeth, Cork exported staves, hide, fish, skins, and wool, but all that trade was carried in foreign ships. Cork itself possessed only a few fishing barques. There were no warehouses, so every trader brought his goods at his own risk and disposed of them as best he could from on board his vessel. Foreign vessels were received in a canal near Castle-street, enclosed by a portcullis between the King's Castle, on the site of the old Police Office in Market-street, and the Queen's Old Castle, which occupied the site of the establishment still bearing its name. From this came the city arms: a ship between two castles, with the motto "statio benejida carinis." The names of Roche, Skiddy, Gould, Terry, Galway, Sarsfield, Meade, Morrogh, and Coppinger were common among the inhabitants of Cork for centuries, and their descendants rank among its leading citizens. They were a sturdy and independent race. When the Lord Deputy sent a message desiring them to proclaim James I, they treated the messenger with great indignity.

Queen's College, Cork, and its design

Cork · city · Cork

Queen's College on an elevation above the southern arm of the Lee is a handsome grey limestone building in florid Tudor Gothic style. Lord Macaulay declared it 'worthy to stand in the High Street of Oxford,' though its effect is somewhat impaired by the proximity of the County Gaol.

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very handsome building, of grey lime-stone, in Ike florid Gothic style of the Tudor era ; and no higher testimony could be given to the beauty of its desifpi than the emphatic declaration of Lord Macaulay, that it is "worthy to stand in the ^igli-filreet of Oxford."* The beauty of the building is enhanced by the cluster of trees in which it is embosomed ; but its general effect is somewhat impaired by the too close proximity of that gloomy-looking structure, the County Gaol — its classic and effective porticoed entrance, notwithstanding.
Standing, as it does, near the site of the ancient Gill Abbey, once a seat of holiness and learning, founded by St. Finnbar, in the seventh century, the situation of the College has been happily chosen. The building occupies three sides of a quadrangle. In the west side are the lecture rooms ; in the east the residences of the president and vice-president ; while the north side, or front, which is 200 feet in extent, consists of the- Examination Hall, Library, and Tower entrance.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 19

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, Queen's College stands on an elevation above the southern arm of the Lee. It is a grey limestone building in the florid Gothic style of the Tudor era. Lord Macaulay declared it "worthy to stand in the High Street of Oxford." Its beauty is enhanced by the cluster of trees in which it is embosomed, but its general effect is somewhat impaired by the too close proximity of the County Gaol, a gloomy-looking structure, notwithstanding its classic and effective porticoed entrance. The college stands near the site of the ancient Gill Abbey, once a seat of holiness and learning, founded by St. Finnbar in the seventh century, so the situation has been happily chosen. The building occupies three sides of a quadrangle. The west side holds the lecture rooms. The east side holds the residences of the president and vice-president. The north side, which is the front, runs 200 feet and consists of the Examination Hall, the Library, and the Tower entrance.

Rev. Charles Wolfe buried in Clonmel churchyard

Clonmel · parish · Cork · 1823

The ancient churchyard of Clonmel on Great Island contains the grave of Rev. Charles Wolfe, author of the famous lines on the death of Sir John Moore. He died there of consumption in 1823, along with Tobin, the celebrated playwright.

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It is needless for us to loiter over attractions so well known as those possessed by Quci-nsstown. Its regattas are famed — so is its Yacht Club ; its advantages, as a sojourn for invalids, are known all over Europe. For the history of the town and the island we refer our readers to the local chroniclers.* Hastening onwards to our gaol, we shall merely remark, that in the ancient churchyard of Clonmel, in the interior of the island, sleeps the dust of the Rev. Charles Wolfe, the author of the immortal lines on the death of Sir John Moore, and of Tobin, scarcely less celebrated by his comedy of " The Honeymoon." The former died there of consumption in 1823.
Directly in front of Queen stown is Spike Island, which, from its position, forms a natural

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 43

Bob Twiss's 1775 satire on Cork citizens' appetites

Cork · city · Cork · 1775

In his 1775 'Tour through Ireland,' the controversial writer Bob Twiss libelled the citizens of Cork as being devoted chiefly to the arts of eating and drinking rather than the sciences. The author acknowledges the statement must be taken with caution but concedes Cork wit shines brightest at the dinner table.

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their '• risibility " proceeds " rather from a full belly than the provocation of a joke." This love of good cheer seems to have long been a ruling propensity of the citizens, if we are to credit the well vituperated u Bob Twiss," who, in his amusing " Tour through Ireland," in 1775, thus libels them: — "But the forte of the citizens does not lie in the sciences of painting, sculpture, architecture, music, or such trilk-s, but in the more essential arts relative to eating and drinking, such as the slaughter of hogs, oxen, and sheep, in order to exchange the superfluous pork, beef, and mutton, for wine, &c. And, indeed, they are much in the right ; for the sciences are only cultivated to enable their professors to acquire wherewith to purchase those necessaries." Coming from such a reckless vilificr, this statement must be received cum yrano; but it cannot be denied that Cork Avit shines brightest at the dinner table, and that a quantum suf. of rosey wine, or its great rival, "whiskey. drink divine," is the oil that feeds the flame. Undoubtedly, the Corkonian waxes most brilliant when the viands have been washed down by the third tumbler of Wise's or Ilewett's upot,"' or "patent" whiskey punch. Then, indeed, his humour corruscates in a flood of

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 33

Castlemore, former keep of the M'Carthies

Castlemore · townland · Cork

After passing the ruins of Castlemore, formerly a keep of the M'Carthies, the Bride river flows through a fertile tract of grazing land that was once the great bog of Kilcrea.

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retaarkable instance of which is mentioned by Dr. Smith. He says that on the high road, near Dunusky, a stone was set up, on which was an inscription in Irish, inviting all passengers to the house of Mr. Edward M 'Sweeny for lodging and refreshment. This stone was subsequently removed by a less generous member of the sept, who, it is said, never prospered after. After passing the ruins of Castlemore, formerly a keep of the M'Carthies, the Bride flows through a fertile tract of grazing land, about one hundred and fifty years ago a vast morass. This was the great bog of Kilcrea, which Smith characterises as being, thirty years before his time, a refuge for wolves and " Tories," to the terror and annoyance of the neighbouring country. He also quotes from a work on agriculture by one of the Ryes of Rye Court, some curious particulars regarding the draining and reclamation of these bogs.
Kilcrea Abbey, or, more correctly speaking, Friary, is situated on a gently rising slope above the Bride, about eleven miles west of Cork. Its name is derived from the Irish Killa Crea, which signifies the cemetery of St. Cera. An antiquated bridge crosses the river close to the Abbey, the entrance to which is shaded by a fine avenue of

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 13

Failure of periodical literature in Cork

Cork · city · Cork · 1795–1848

Despite Cork's love of letters, periodical magazines consistently failed in the city. Early attempts included the 'Monthly Miscellany' (c.1795), Millikin's 'Casket, or Hesperian Magazine' (1797, which lasted only one year), 'Bolster's Quarterly Magazine,' and the 'Cork Magazine' (begun November 1847, survived little more than twelve months).

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Notwithstanding their unquestionable love of letters, strange to say, periodical literature has never succeeded in Cork. Magazines have been started there at various periods, but all have become speedily defunct. Among the earliest of these '-were the "Monthly Miscellany," -which flourished about 1795, and the " Casket, or Hesperian Magazine,1" published by Millikin, in 1797, au*i which expired after having existed but one jrcar. "Bolsters Quarterly Magazine," a more ann bilious attempt, \vas subsequently started. It was supported by a staff of able contributors ; l>ut went dowi^ owing to the unwise illibenviiiy of the publisher. Many highly talented men contributed to it, including Callanan, J. A. Shea,, -M. 1;\ M'Carthy, P. 3. Meagher (now the Paris Correspondent of the Time.*),* Yen. Archdeacon. 'O'Shea, and J. "Wihdele. So superior were the •contributions to " Bolster's "Quarterly, '" that many of them have since taken a place amofcg vmr standard literature.
The last periodical attempted in Cork was the >; Cork Magazine," commenced in November, 1847. Although its literary matter was charac» by considerable ability, it survived little

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 35

Gougane Barra island as refuge for the persecuted

near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

Due to its former difficulty of access, the island and shores of Gougane Barra served as a refuge for victims of religious and political persecution across various periods. The remote mountain setting made it a natural sanctuary for those fleeing danger.

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flourished towards the end of the sixth century, lived in seclusion for many years ; and from the difficulty of access formerly, the island, as well as the shores of the lake, was a refuge for the victims of religious and political persecution of various periods. Contrasting with the barren rocks and shores around, this island, with its embowering trees and verdant sward, is most refreshing to the eye ; and so vividly green is its grassy carpet that it seems like an emerald set in the ring of the lake. This lonely island has been consecrated anew in lines which have the true stamp and ring of genuine poetry, by the gifted J. J. Callanan, whose dawning fame was extinguished by a premature death in a foreign land.* His poem beginning with the line
" There is a green island in lone Gougaune Barm is so well known that it is unnecessary for us to give more than this passing allusion to it.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 3

Holy Well Pilgrimages at Gougane Barra

near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

At the entrance of the causeway leading to the sacred island at Gougane Barra is a holy well, formed by the waters of the lake and surrounded by a square enclosure. Two great annual pilgrimages of the diseased, maimed, and blind attend seeking miraculous cures from its waters.

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At the entrance of the causeway leading to the sacred island is the holy well, to which there are two great pilgrimages annually of the diseased, the maimed, and the blind, who seek a cure for their ailments in its miraculous waters. There are numbers of these holy wells in Ireland, and their worship, which is supposed to be of Phoenician origin, is an innocent and beautiful superstition which we would be unwilling to see decay. These wells, once desecrated by the bloody rites of the Druidical Baal, are now consecrated to Christian prayers and harmless Christian ceremonies. And here we cannot deny ourselves the pleasure of quoting the following lines on these crystal shrines by J. D. Ffraser : —
" The holy wells — the living wells — the cool, the fresh, the pure —

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 4

Lough Allua chain of lakes on the Lee

near Lough Allua · lake or lakes · Cork

Lough Allua is a chain of lakes four miles in length and about one in breadth, studded with islands formed by the windings of the Lee through soft peaty soil. The gloomy hill of Coolnegreenane rises at its western extremity.

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Leaving the Pass of Keimaneigh (which, we may remark, is about two miles in length from north to south), we return to the Lee. After issuing from the lake of Gougaune, the Lee flows in an eastern direction, through rocky banks, with a foaming and rapid current, to Ballingeary, where the Bunshelin, a small stream, falls into it. The country here is wild and barren, dotted at intervals with straggling herbage. The glen through which the Bunshelin flows is beautifully wild and sequestered, extending to the vicinity of the village of Ballyvourney. near which is a circular stone fort, with subterranean galleries. The Lee now expands into the broad sheet of water, called Lough Allua. The lake (or rather chain of lakes) is four miles in length, and about one in breadth It is studded with several islands formed by the windings of the Lee, in its sinuo us course through the soft, peaty soil of this extensive flat. At its western extremity rises the gloomy hill of Coolnegreenane, or the " mountain
16 THE RIVER LfcE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 7

Pass of Keimaneigh: Rugged Defile

near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

The Pass of Keimaneigh is a tortuous gorge lined with towering rock barriers, chasms worn by mountain torrents, and huge blocks of stone. So secluded and complete is the solitude that it seemed equally adapted for the inspiration of the poet or the lair of an outlaw, before the engineer carried the present road through it.

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fit for the pencil of Salvator Rosa, bursts upon the view. In the rocky walls that line the defile numerous chasms have been worn by mountain torrents, which stream down their sides and flood the road in wet weather. These chasms invest the rocks with a still more rugged aspect ; while the huge blocks of stone, and rocky crags piled up confusedly around, assume, in the dim light, the most fantastic outlines, reminding us of D. F. M'Carthy's beautiful lines on
-" Awful Ceim-an-eagh,

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 6

Class exclusiveness and social hierarchy in Cork society

Cork · city · Cork

The author describes Cork as a city where class exclusiveness is maintained with rigorous intensity, where every person must have their social rank visibly marked. The merchant classes replicate this hierarchy among themselves, from cloth merchants down to publicans.

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In a figure bon'owcd from the staple trade &'* the city, it has been AVell said thnt all Cork is one Vast wt-igh-house, where t-voryohe must have his social rank duly scratched tipon liiiii. This ex^ (•lusiveness exists as generally among the middle' classes as among those above them. The cloth merchant looks Jow'jl on tlie gfocef, the latter on the chandler, who ehubs the publican, who, iii turr;, looks down on somebody else. This would be sufficiently zitnusing, did it not tend to estrange men whose genial qualities render them 10 well calculated to combine in promoting the
104 THE KIVEU LEE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 34

Cork described as a "pretty slattern"

Cork · city · Cork · 1848

A writer in the University Magazine for June 1848 characterised Cork as a slovenly but attractive city, calling it "a pretty slattern, slipshod and draggle-tailed." The author elaborates that Cork would be far more charming if she would but wash her face and tidy herself.

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streets are rery dirty, the place lying low, therefore subject to much raia.'' Du Soile, an American, bears similar testimony to the untidiness of Cork. A writer in the University Magazine for June, 1848, thus refers to the city : — " Cork is a pretty slattern, slipshod and draggle-tailed." Continuing the figure — how fascinating would she not be did the slovenly beauty but wash her face, bind up her unkempt tresses, and keep herself neat.
The limits of this work preclude us from doing more than giving a rapid glance at the commercial career of the city. Its developmen t was rapidly promoted by the American war of independence, which made the harbour a rendezvous for vessels of war and fleets of merchantmen, chiefly bound for the West Indies. At the period of the Union, numbers were employed in Cork in the various branches of cotton manufacture, cloth-weaving, wool-combing, papermaking, glass-blowing, and tanning, all of which became extinct within ten years after tire passing of the act. Her commerce again revived towards the close of the great French war, Cork having obtained contracts for victualling the navy, which gave a great impulse to her mercantile prosperity. One of her merchants, Daniel Csflagh&n, senior,

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 28

As the companion tells it

Coming through Cork. In 1848, visitors remarked on the city's dirt. An American named Du Soile bore testimony to the untidiness of Cork, noting that the streets were very dirty, the place lying low and subject to much rain. A writer in the University Magazine for June 1848 put it more sharply. The words from the source: "Cork is a pretty slattern, slipshod and draggle-tailed." The writer continued the figure, saying how fascinating the slovenly beauty would be did she but wash her face, bind up her unkempt tresses, and keep herself neat. The city's commerce tells another story. Its development was rapidly promoted by the American war of independence, which made the harbour a rendezvous for vessels of war and fleets of merchantmen, chiefly bound for the West Indies. At the period of the Union, numbers were employed in Cork in cotton manufacture, cloth-weaving, wool-combing, papermaking, glass-blowing, and tanning. All of these became extinct within ten years after the passing of the act. Commerce revived towards the close of the great French war, when Cork obtained contracts for victualling the navy, giving a great impulse to her mercantile prosperity.

Cork women gathering water at fountains and river-side

Cork · city · Cork

The author describes the picturesque sight of groups of Cork girls assembled around fountains or ascending from the river-side with pitchers gracefully poised on their heads. Beauty, the author claims, prevails equally among women of all classes in Cork, though untidiness mars its effect among the lower ranks.

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Kven as it is, there are few sights more pleasing or picturesque than a group of Cork girls assembled around a fountain, or ascending from the river-side with pitchers gracefully poised on their heads
In noting the peculiarities of Corfconiaiis, we should not omit their brogue. It has been mercilessly attacked by strangers. One writer compares it to u a railway whistle raised to hurricane power, trying to scream down a saw-mill at full work." It is broad enough, Heaven knows ; but this is characterising it with a vengeance ! Now, so far from being, such, as- tlus prejudiced scribbler describes, it, the Cork accent is soft and mellifluous — in the mouth of a woman, it is truly music-breathing. Unctuous and mellow, it issues from the lips with a peculiar richness of intonation far more agreeable to our unprejudiced ear than the harsh grating of the. Northern or the shrill tones of the Dublin accent. We may. add that it is strongly suggestive of blarney.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 36

Earl of Tyrone at Caatleinore near Mallow

Mallow · town · Cork

The Earl of Tyrone, while marching past Caatleinore, a residence of the Barretts near Mallow, asked who lived there. On learning it was a Barrett—a Catholic whose ancestors had been settled in Ireland over 400 years—he declared he hated the English churl as much as if he had landed but yesterday.

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* In reference to the Barretts, the following; characteristic anecdote is related of the Earl of Tyrone. As he was marching past Caatleinore, a re»id«nce of the Barretts near Mallow, he staked who lived there ! And being told that it was inhabited by one Barrett, a good Catholic, whose ancestors had been settled in Ireland OTCT 400 years — '• No matter," he replied, " I hate the English churl a* lunch as if he landed but yesterday !"

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 16

Equestrian statue of George II in the Parade, Cork

Cork · city · Cork

The most conspicuous public statue in Cork is the equestrian statue of George II, popularly known as 'George-a-horseback,' located in the Parade. Cast in lead by Dutch artist Van Oss, both horse and rider lean forward out of the perpendicular, requiring crutches to prevent toppling.

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Ere we conclude, we must briefly notice the public statues of Cork. The most conspicuous of these is the equestrian statue of George II. (popularly known as George-a-horseback), iu the Parade. It was cast in lead by Van Oss, a Dutch artist. This statue is perfectly unique ; since both horse and rider being inclined forward considerably out of the perpendicular, a crutch was placed under his Majesty's right arm, and another beneath the belly of the charger, to prevent them from toppling over. As may bo imagined, the effect is most ludicrous.
A marble statue of the Earl of Chatham, and one of William III. adorned the Mansion House. The former underwent some vicissitudes, having been mutilated, and subsequently painted in all the colours of a harlequin. Its removal from the Mansion House bv ou« of the chief magistrates

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

As the companion tells it

Cork has its public statues, and the most conspicuous is the equestrian statue of George the Second, popularly known as George-a-horseback, standing in the Parade. It was cast in lead by Van Oss, a Dutch artist. The thing is perfectly unique, since both horse and rider lean considerably forward out of the perpendicular. A crutch was placed under his Majesty's right arm, and another beneath the belly of the charger, to keep them from toppling over. The effect is most ludicrous. A marble statue of the Earl of Chatham and one of William the Third adorned the Mansion House. The Chatham statue had some vicissitudes. It was mutilated, and then painted in all the colours of a harlequin. One of the chief magistrates had it removed from the Mansion House.

Fynes Morrison on Cork's dirtiness, c. 1600

Cork · city · Cork · 1600

Fynes Morrison, writing about Ireland around 1600, observed that in Cork even Englishmen's hired chambers were scarcely swept once a week, and dust was perhaps cast out only once a month or two.

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weekly dancing reunions, called " drums," referred to by Dr. Smith, in his quaint amusing way. Within the last thirty years the city has extended rapidly, covering the sides of the surrounding hills with stately terraces and villas. But, though blessed, like Damascus, with many flowing streams, its streets are even more filthy than those of the Pearl of Islam. In many of the thoroughfares aro to be found heaps of offal, over which at times hungry curs growl and fi~ht undisturbed, or pestilent sinks, wherein half nuda brats ^dabble ecstatically. Nor is uncleanliness a new feature in Cork ; it seems to have been always inseparable from and indigenous to it. Fynes Morrison, who wrote about Ireland in the year 1600, says : — " Even in the best city, as at Cork, I have observed that my own, as well as other Englishmen's chambers, hired of the citizens, were scarce swept cnce in a week, and the dust, then laid in a corner, was, perhaps, cast cut once in a month or two." This statement should, however, be received with some limitation, as, in point of veracity, the writer might be termed the Cambrensis of the 17th century. Samuel Derrick, writing to Lord Cork, in 1760, ssys : — •' I scarcely need inform your lordship that thij city is nine or tea miles from the sea that the

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 27

As the companion tells it

Coming through Cork now, a city that has always had a reputation for filth. The streets here have been called worse than those of Damascus, with heaps of offal where hungry dogs growl and fight, and pestilent sinks where half-naked children dabble. The book that carries this story says uncleanliness seems to have been always inseparable from and indigenous to Cork. Fynes Morrison, who wrote about Ireland in the year 1600, left his own account. He said that even in the best city, as at Cork, he observed that his own, as well as other Englishmen's chambers, hired of the citizens, were scarce swept once in a week, and the dust, then laid in a corner, was, perhaps, cast out once in a month or two. The writer who preserves this says it should be received with some limitation, calling Morrison the Cambrensis of the 17th century, which is to say a man not above stretching the truth. So the dirt may be old, but the witness may not be entirely straight.

Grand Parade arched over and Mall promenade

Grand Parade · street · Cork · 1780

The Grand Parade, Cork's most spacious street, was arched over in 1780. At its south side was the fashionable tree-shaded promenade called the Mall, frequented by gallants in cocked hats and powdered wigs escorting ladies in voluminous hoops over rough irregular pavement.

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pavement, in mending the same, and all other" matters in said proposall contained, provided he perforate the said worke in three yeares tyme." The town gradually extended from island to island, and the various channels that flowed through it having been bridged over, it arose like another Venice above the Hood. Until the close of the last century, the principal streets were tideways, bordered by quays, at which vessels took in and discharged cargoes. Patrickstreet was arched over in 178o, previously to which a channel flowed through it. It is now the principal thoroughfare of Cork, and is adorned with handsome shops. The Grand Parade, its most spacious street, was arched over in a similar manner in 1780. At the south side of the Parade was the fashionable promenade, shaded by trees, called the " Mall." It was then much frequented by brave gallants i cocked hats, powdered wigs, frills, ruffles, and Bteel-handled swords, escorting young ladies in hoops as voluminous as the crinoline of our day, who tripped daintily along in gold-clocked stockings and red-heeled shoes, over a rough irregular pavement— -flagged trottoirs being then unknown. The Assembly Rooms, in George's- Btreet, were then a gny resort, wherein were
70 THE RIVER LEE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 27

O'Mahony the Ascetic's Tomb at Gougane Barra

near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

An ascetic named O'Mahony, the last of a line of recluses associated with Gougane Barra, is buried on the mainland near the lake. Though he shunned human society, local peasantry hold his memory in deep reverence, though his tomb is shamefully neglected.

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and often vainly. The last of these was an ascetic named O'Mahony, whose tomb, shamefully neglected, is on the main land. Although he shunned all intercourse with his kind, his memory is held in deep reverence among the peasantry of the district.
.Near the causeway on the southern shore of the lake is a burial place

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 4

Patrick Street and the Parade as fashionable promenades

Patrick Street · street · Cork

Patrick Street and the Parade are described as the fashionable promenades of Cork, crowded between three and five o'clock with a lively mix of dandies, girls, country gentlemen, officers, and citizens. The passage captures the social texture of Cork's main thoroughfares in the mid-nineteenth century.

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As we arc now treating of the externals of Cork life, the reader will please put on his hat and accompany us in a stroll through Patrickstroot and the Parade — the fashionable promenades— between the hours of three and five o'clock, p.m. By what a motly and lively crowd are we not surrounded ! Ill-dressed dandle?, sporting bad hats, soiled kid gloves, and flashy ties ; lovely girls, rather over-dressed, rattling away in the most musical of brogues, and with fun-flashing eyes, that make you feel very queer about the region of the heart, setting it "all of a twitter,"* chubby-faced youths of
*• Let the most hopeless hypochondriac only encounter the glance of the Cork girls, and we warrant it he will be forthwith converted into the liveliest of men. There is a .kind of mesmeric or galvanic influence in it beyond any ntiNiiowncnt we know <:f. It pierces, it electrifies, it thrill*, it burns, it tickles, it quickens, it flabbergasts, it bothers, it --whew I — we're fairly nonplused for words to describe it* uuyu'ul ort'ects.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

Picturesque irregularity of Cork's streets

Cork · city · Cork

Cork's streets display a striking irregularity reminiscent of old Flemish burghs, with diminutive tenements beside buildings five or six stories high, crooked houses leaning against straight ones, and a jumble of bay windows, gables, red brick, and weather-slated facades. Despite a prevalent air of uncleanliness, many thoroughfares are handsome and the city bears the stamp of an opulent community.

Read the passage

Arrived at the County Court House (whose faultless portico he will pause to admire), the traveller finds himself at once in one of the principal thoroughfares of Cork. The favourable impression it is calculated to produce in the mind of a stranger will scarcely be diminished by a more extended inspection of the city, the irregularity of whose streets, like those of the quaint old burghs of Flanders, invests them with a picturesqeness denied to towns where greater uniformity prevails in the houses. A diminutive tenement side by side with one five or six stories high ; some projecting boldly several feet beyond their neighbours, others modestly receding from the view ; a crooked house leaning with a touching confidence against a straight, with here and there a collapsed oue shored up ; bay windows

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 22

As the companion tells it

The County Court House has a faultless portico worth pausing over. From there you find yourself in one of the principal thoroughfares of Cork, whose streets have a picturesque irregularity the book compares to the old burghs of Flanders. A diminutive tenement stands side by side with one five or six stories high. Some houses project boldly several feet beyond their neighbours, others modestly recede. A crooked house leans with what the source calls "a touching confidence" against a straight one, and here and there a collapsed house is shored up. Bay windows, gables, red brick and weather-slated facades jumble together. Despite a prevalent air of uncleanliness, many thoroughfares are handsome, and the city bears the stamp of an opulent community.

Island ruins at Gougane Barra: chapel and hermit cells

near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

On the island in Gougane Barra lake stand the ruins of a chapel and a hermit's cell, overshadowed by venerable ash trees preserved by superstition. The oratory interior measures about thirty-six feet by fourteen, with side walls only four feet high, adjoining cloisters of four small chambers and two narrow cells.

Read the passage

On the island are the ruins of the chapel and of the hermit's cell, whence the place derives its •anctity. In this lone retreat St. Finnbar,f who
* The Luvius of Ptolemy — from which, however, it does mot derive its name, but from the Irish L'ia, which means a rirer.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 2

Mansion House converted from corporate hall to hospital

Cork · city · Cork · 1767

The Mansion House, a plain edifice erected in 1767 and long the scene of corporate festivities, was converted into a hospital under the charge of the Sisters of Mercy. The Mayors of Cork were entitled by office to dispose of city refuse, and city scavengers were appointed by the Corporation.

Read the passage

The Mansion House is a plain, substantial edifice, erected in 17G7. As an Instance of the changes wrought by time, this building, so many years the scene of corporate festivities, has been converted into an hospital under the charge of the Sisters of Mercy. Apropos of the Mansion House, it is worthy of mention that the Mayors of Cork were entitled by virtue of the office to dispose of the city refuse, and that the city scavengers were appointed- by the Corporation; an office, strange to say, generally held by respectable citizens about the middle of the last oentury.* A clause in the charter of Queen
.* Council Book, vol. 5.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Cork, one building worth noting is the Mansion House, a plain, substantial edifice put up in 1767. For many years it was the scene of corporate festivities. Time has changed its purpose. It has been converted into a hospital under the charge of the Sisters of Mercy. Connected with the Mansion House is an old civic arrangement. The Mayors of Cork were entitled by virtue of their office to dispose of the city refuse, and the city scavengers were appointed by the Corporation. Strange to say, that office was generally held by respectable citizens about the middle of the last century.

Ovens hamlet and its limestone caverns on the Bride

Ovens · electoral division · Cork

The hamlet of the Ovens on the banks of the River Bride is chiefly remarkable for its limestone caverns, said to extend many miles underground. There are two entrances, but some caves are so low that explorers must crawl on hands and knees.

Read the passage

About two miles west of Ballincollig, and seven to the west of Cork, is situate the hamlet of the Ovens, on the banks of the Bride. This place is chiefly remarkable for its limestone caverns, said to extend many miles underground. There are two entrances to them, but some of the caves are so low as to oblige the explorer to creep on hands and knees,
A mile to the west of Ballincollig, the Brila

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 16

Statues of Chatham and William III at Cork Mansion House

Cork · city · Cork

A marble statue of the Earl of Chatham and one of William III adorned the Mansion House. The Chatham statue was mutilated and subsequently painted in harlequin colours, and its removal by a chief magistrate gave rise to witticisms from Cork wags.

Read the passage

A marble statue of the Earl of Chatham, and one of William III. adorned the Mansion House. The former underwent some vicissitudes, having been mutilated, and subsequently painted in all the colours of a harlequin. Its removal from the Mansion House bv ou« of the chief magistrates
9-4 THE RIVER LEE-

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

Vast marsh at Toon Bridge on the Lee

Toon Bridge · bridge · Cork

A vast marsh clothed with heather and water plants spreads for miles around Toon Bridge, where the Lee creeps sluggishly through forming numerous islets shaded by trees. Attempts to drain this extensive quagmire at various times have been abortive due to small scale or unskilful execution.

Read the passage

As we are not aware of any historical associations connected with this ruin, and as it possesses no picturesque attractions, we shall pass on to Toon Bridge, which crosses part of the swampy plain through which the Lee flows in this place. A vast marsh, clothed with heather and water plants, spreads away for miles on all sides. Attempts have been made at various times to drain this extensive quagmire ; but, either because they were on too small a scale, or unskilfully conducted, they have been hitherto abortive. We need not dwell on the importance of reclaiming this moorland, the benefits that would result from such an improvement being sufficiently obvious.*
Through this morass —

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 9

Coolmore and Hoddersfield demesnes on the Lee

Coolmore · townland · Cork

The fine demesnes of Coolmore and Hoddersfield, situated on the banks of the river Lee, were favourite resorts for picnic parties from Cork city.

Read the passage

Drake's Pool, so called to perpetuate the escape of Sir Francis Drake from the Spanish fleet, •which sought for him in the harbour outside, while he was safely hidden in the pool that bears his name. Ascending the river, a region of enchantment is unfolded to the view. The estuary: is enclosed by hills clothed from summit to base with magnificent trees, and, winding in its course,, forms a number of apparently land-locked lakes presenting the appearance of a miniature Rhine. Situated on its banks arc the fine demesnes of Coolmore and Iloddersfield, the favourite resorts of pic-nic parties from " the beautiful city." The once impregnable Castle of Carrigaline rose on an elevation near the village -t but not a vestige of it remains The ruins of Aghamarta Castle, formerly a keep of the Desmonds, are still visible on the banks of the river.
Emerging from the Awnabuoy, we arrive in a few moments at the mouth of the harbour. The bold headlands on either side of it are crowned by the forts of Camden and Carlisle, the former to the right, the latter to the left, as you issue from the port. Standing on one of these heights, let us give one parting glance at the scene outspread before us. On one side extends the magnificent basin of the harbour, glassing its

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 44

County Court House and Cork's principal thoroughfares

Cork · city · Cork

The County Court House in Cork features a faultless portico admired by travellers. Beyond it lies one of the principal thoroughfares of the city, whose irregular streets recall the quaint old burghs of Flanders and possess a picturesqueness denied to more uniform towns.

Read the passage

Arrived at the County Court House (whose faultless portico he will pause to admire), the traveller finds himself at once in one of the principal thoroughfares of Cork. The favourable impression it is calculated to produce in the mind of a stranger will scarcely be diminished by a more extended inspection of the city, the irregularity of whose streets, like those of the quaint old burghs of Flanders, invests them with a picturesqeness denied to towns where greater uniformity prevails in the houses. A diminutive tenement side by side with one five or six stories high ; some projecting boldly several feet beyond their neighbours, others modestly receding from the view ; a crooked house leaning with a touching confidence against a straight, with here and there a collapsed oue shored up ; bay windows

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 22

As the companion tells it

Coming through Cork now. The County Court House stands with a faultless portico that travellers pause to admire, and beyond it you step into one of the principal thoroughfares of the city. The irregular streets here recall the quaint old burghs of Flanders, and they carry a picturesqueness that more uniform towns are denied. A diminutive tenement sits side by side with one five or six stories high. Some houses project boldly several feet beyond their neighbours, others modestly recede from view. A crooked house leans with what the writer calls a touching confidence against a straight one, and here and there a collapsed house stands shored up. Bay windows catch the eye along the way.

Passage West town and Victoria Dock

Passage West · town · Cork

Passage sits on the southern bank of the Lee, connected to Cork by railway. Its most important establishment is the Victoria Dock, built at a cost of about £100,000 by Mr. William Brown, capable of holding four vessels of the largest size. The town was celebrated in a witty song and is chiefly remarkable for its dirt and offensive odours.

Read the passage

The town is chiefly remarkable for its dirt and: offensive odours ; but it is to be hoped that the inhabitants will submit ere long to the purging and sanitary provisions of the Towns* Improve -
* A love song, entitled "The Maid of Passage." is [scarcely less celebrated than the above. We quote a verse i-< A spuuimen : —

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 41

Rostellan estate and the O'Briens of Thomond

Rostellan · townland · Cork

Rostellan, the seat of the Marquess of Thomond, stood on the rich plantations of Aghada. The O'Briens were among the first native princes to espouse English interests, and their estates were crown grants from lands of exiled patriotic chieftains, later reverting to descendants of the original proprietors in County Clare.

Read the passage

Mild admirable breakwater. It is used as a convict depot, and holds at present about 800 malefactors, who are chiefly employed on the fortifi^ cations which are now in a very effective and formidable condition. Near the south-eastern extremity of the harbour is the embouchure of a stream which leads through beautiful scenery to the East Ferry, Ballinaclirraj and Midleton* At the opposite side afe the rich plantations of Aghada, containing Rostellan, lately the seat of the Marquess of Thomond. The O'Briens of Thomond were among the first of the native princes who espoused the English interests, and their estates were gifts made by the crown of the lands of the more patriotic chieftains who refused to yield, and were driven into exile* By a strange revolution in the wheel of fate, these estates, after the lapse of three centuries, have come once more into the ownership of some of the lineal descendants of the original proprie* tors in the County of Clare. l"he fine estate of Rostellan was recently sold lit the Encumbered Estates Court, and was within an ace of being purchased by John Amott, Esq., a benevolent nnd highly esteemed citizen of Cork.*
* The Encumbered Estate* Court has effected a complete ^rvi.il revolution In Ireland, the effects of which arc already beginning to be felt. To give an idea of the extent of ifc

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 43

Votive Rags on Island Cross at Gougane Barra

near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

In the walled enclosure on the sacred island at Gougane Barra, a wooden pole—the remains of a cross—stands on an elevation. Innumerable rags, the votive offerings of pilgrims to the sacred fount, are nailed or otherwise fastened to it.

Read the passage

over with flags, and a cross is deeply sculptured on a stone at the back. In the midst of the walled enclosure on the island, planted on an elevation, is a wooden pole, the remains of a cross, to which innumerable rags, the votive offerings of pilgrims to the sacred fount, are nailed or otherwise fastened. On St. John's Eve a pattern is held at Gougaune Lake, which is attended by the peasantry of all the surrounding baronies.
Of the mountain streams that feed Gougaune Lake, that which descends from the mountain called Nadan-uityer (the eagle's nest), at the western extremity of the lake, is the natal stream of the Lee, whose true source, however, is a spring in the mountain, the approach to which is extremely difficult. To the east is the outlet of the lake, not much more than three feet wide. Through this rocky passage the youthful Lee leaps and flashes, and flows with the exuberant joyousness of a sportive child, over rugged stones —

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 5

Circular stone fort near Ballyvourney

Ballyvourney · parish · Cork

Near the village of Ballyvourney, a circular stone fort with subterranean galleries is noted in the wild and sequestered glen through which the Bunshelin stream flows. The fort represents an antiquarian feature of the area.

Read the passage

Leaving the Pass of Keimaneigh (which, we may remark, is about two miles in length from north to south), we return to the Lee. After issuing from the lake of Gougaune, the Lee flows in an eastern direction, through rocky banks, with a foaming and rapid current, to Ballingeary, where the Bunshelin, a small stream, falls into it. The country here is wild and barren, dotted at intervals with straggling herbage. The glen through which the Bunshelin flows is beautifully wild and sequestered, extending to the vicinity of the village of Ballyvourney. near which is a circular stone fort, with subterranean galleries. The Lee now expands into the broad sheet of water, called Lough Allua. The lake (or rather chain of lakes) is four miles in length, and about one in breadth It is studded with several islands formed by the windings of the Lee, in its sinuo us course through the soft, peaty soil of this extensive flat. At its western extremity rises the gloomy hill of Coolnegreenane, or the " mountain
16 THE RIVER LfcE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 7

Government grant withdrawn from Royal Cork Institution due to sectarianism

Cork · city · Cork · 1830

Religious and political sectarianism neutralised the noble objectives of the Royal Cork Institution. The government, finding no commensurate public benefit, gradually reduced its annual grant until it was entirely withdrawn in 1830. The institution subsequently had a languishing existence, chiefly supported by the medical faculty of Cork.

Read the passage

Owing, however, to religious and political sectarianism— that perpetual bane of our country, instilling its virus into every phase of Irish society — the noble objects for which the Cork Institution was established, and which were carried out at first with vigour and success, were almost wholly neutralised. The government, finding that no commensurate benefit accrued to the public, gradually reduced the annual grant until 1830, when it was entirely withdrawn.* Since then the institution has had a languishing existence, and is at present chiefly supported by the medical faculty of Cork.
As a literary association, the Cork Library Society ranks next in importance to the Iloyal Cork Institution. It was founded in 1790, by

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 29

As the companion tells it

Cork was home to the Royal Cork Institution, which began with noble objects carried out at first with vigour and success. But religious and political sectarianism, that perpetual bane of the country, instilled its virus into every phase of Irish society and almost wholly neutralised those aims. The government, finding no commensurate benefit accrued to the public, gradually reduced the annual grant until 1830, when it was entirely withdrawn. Since then the institution has had a languishing existence, chiefly supported by the medical faculty of Cork.

Hogan monument at St. Michael's church, Blackrock

near Blackrock · population centre · Cork

St. Michael's church, situated between Ballintemple and Blackrock, contains an alto relievo monument by the sculptor Hogan to the memory of W. Beamish of Beaumont, depicting the Resurrection with an angel, cherub, and rising figure.

Read the passage

About midway between the villages of Ballintemple and Blackroek is situated the pretty church of St. Michael. This church is adorned with one of the most beautiful productions of Ilogan's cliisel. It is a monument in alto relievo to the memory of W. Beamish, Esq., of Beaumont, representing the Resurrection. Above is an angel, with outspread wings, blowing the dread summons — the right hand grasping the trumpet, and the left gracefully extended. Over the whole figure is flung such an air of motion that it appears to fly ; while the eyes arc half-closed, as if to veil the celestial resplendence with which they seem to beam. Beneath the angel is a cherub with clasped hands and up-turned face. Below, and
126 THE RIYEU LEE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 40

James II landed at Kinsale before entering Cork

Kinsale · town · Cork · 1689

In 1688, General M'Carthy took possession of Cork for James II. The following year James II made a public entry into Cork after having landed at Kinsale.

Read the passage

Intimidated by the approach of Cromwell, the city declared for the Parliament in 1649, about which time William Penn, the celebrated founder of Pensylvania, became a convert to Quakerism, in Cork, after having accidentally heard a sermon from a member of that sect. In 1688, General M'Carthy took possession of the city for James II., who made a public entry into Cork the following year, after having landed at Kinsale.
The siege of Cork, by Maryborough, and the Ihike of Wirtemburgh, in September, 1690, is the most important historical event connected with the city. Nature has precluded Cork by its position from ever becoming a place of military strength. Surrounded by steep hills, it must inevitably be at the mercy of an enemy who obtains possession of them ; and so, despite its embattled wails at the period of the siege, it held out but five days against an army much inferior iu numerical strength to that which had unsuccessfully attacked Limerick a few weeks before.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 26

As the companion tells it

Coming up now is Kinsale. In 1689, James II landed here and made a public entry into Cork. A year earlier, in 1688, General M'Carthy had taken possession of the city for James II. Before that, in 1649, intimidated by the approach of Cromwell, the city had declared for the Parliament. Around that same time, William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in Cork, after accidentally hearing a sermon from a member of that sect. In September 1690, Cork was besieged by Maryborough and the Duke of Wirtemburgh. Nature had precluded Cork from ever becoming a place of military strength. Surrounded by steep hills, it was at the mercy of any enemy who took possession of them. Despite its embattled walls, it held out only five days against an army much inferior in numbers to the one that had unsuccessfully attacked Limerick a few weeks before.

Cork city walls, towers and gates under chronic siege

Cork · city · Cork

Cork was surrounded by fortifications enclosing the area between the north and south branches of the Lee, defended by strong towers at Christ Church-lane and where the City Club stands, plus fortified north and south gates and St. Peter's belfry. Citizens dared not leave the walls without arms and escort due to hostile clans.

Read the passage

About this period, the city was surrounded by fortifications which enclosed that portion of it situated between the north and south branches of the Lee. The walls were defended by several strong towers, one of which stood at the extremity of Christ Church-lane, and another whero
64 THE RIVER LEE

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 25

As the companion tells it

As you come through Cork, the city was once bounded by fortifications enclosing the ground between the north and south branches of the Lee. The walls were defended by several strong towers, one at the end of Christ Church Lane, and another where the City Club now stands.

Old church of Inniscarra founded by St. Senan

Inishcarra · parish · Cork

The crumbling old church of Inniscarra stands on the margin of the river at the confluence of the Lee and Bride, embowered in venerable trees. Founded by St. Senan, its guardian trees have been religiously spared by the local people.

Read the passage

Passing the ruins of the church of Innisluinga, erected by St. Senan, of Scattery, and, lower down, of Castle Inchy, we come to the most charming scenery through which our river flows — the romantic valley of Inniscarra. We shall not attempt to describe a scene which is indescribable ; but we must linger a few moments within the crumbling walls of the old church of Inniscarra, which stands on the margin of the river, embowered in venerable trees. It was founded by St. Senan ; and its solitary situation in a lone glen on the marge of a murmuring tide, at the confluence of the Lee and Bride, was admirably fitted for the indulgence of prayer and religious meditation. The guardian trees that overshadow the ruins have been religiously spared by the hand of man — a refined feeling
INNISCARRA — ARDRUM. 31

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 12

Source of the Lee from Nadan-uityer Mountain

near Gougane Barra · population centre · Cork

The natal stream of the Lee descends from the mountain called Nadan-uityer (the eagle's nest) at the western extremity of Gougane Lake. The true source is a spring in the mountain with extremely difficult access. The name Gougaune signifies 'gurgling head,' from the lake's outlet where the youthful Lee leaps over rugged stones.

Read the passage

Of the mountain streams that feed Gougaune Lake, that which descends from the mountain called Nadan-uityer (the eagle's nest), at the western extremity of the lake, is the natal stream of the Lee, whose true source, however, is a spring in the mountain, the approach to which is extremely difficult. To the east is the outlet of the lake, not much more than three feet wide. Through this rocky passage the youthful Lee leaps and flashes, and flows with the exuberant joyousness of a sportive child, over rugged stones —
" which seem'd to 'plain

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 5

Chair of Celtic Literature at Queen's College called a sham

Cork · city · Cork

A chair of Celtic literature was established at Queen's College Cork but no provision was made for its working, making it a sinecure with no class. This is regretted at a time when European philologers recognize the value of the Irish language for ethnological research into the migrations of the Celtic race.

Read the passage

Ere quitting the subject, we may remark that, although a chair of Celtic literature has been established in the College, it would seem to be a mere pretence of nationality, no provision whatever having been made for its working. Practically, it is the veriest sham ; and hence the learned professor who fills the chair finds his .situation a sinecure — having had no class, because no encouragement has been given for its
BLAIR'S CASTLE. 55

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala

As the companion tells it

As the road takes you through Cork, there is Queen's College, where a chair of Celtic literature was established. It would seem to be a mere pretence of nationality. No provision was made for its working. The learned professor who fills the chair finds his situation a sinecure, having had no class, because no encouragement was given for its support. The Irish language, which European philologers value for research into the migrations of the Celtic race, goes untaught.

Cork's tradition of princely charitable giving

Cork · city · Cork

The author praises the large-handed charity of Corkonians, noting that local charities are well supported and appeals to benevolence meet princely munificence. The late Jeremiah Murphy, Thomas Lyons, and Mr. Beamish are cited as splendid instances of the citizens' charitable worth.

Read the passage

ionic of the faults of the Corkonians, we it-el sincere pleasure in giving them all honour and praise for their large-handed charity. The exclusiveness we have noticed is but the ice encrusting the surface of their character — the living stream of goodness flowing d?ep and warm beneath. To every appeal to their benevolence they respond with a princely munificence. The local charities are all well supported ; and it has been truly said that you have but to open your hand in the cause of charity in Cork, to have it filled with hundreds. The ahnost unbounded diarities of the late Jeremiah Murphy, the late Thomas Lyons, and of the late ]\ I r. Beamish, are. splendid instances of the worth of the citizens of Cork.
Cork has produced many distinguished sons and daughters. She has. however, giveii a more

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 34

Franciscan Friary founded at Shandon

near Shandon · locality · Cork · 1214

In 1214, a Grey or Franciscan Friary was founded by Dermod McCarthy Rea at Shandon, on the north side of the city of Cork. This was one of several religious establishments erected and endowed in Cork during the thirteenth century.

Read the passage

In the 13th century several religious establishments were erected and endowed in Cork. In 1214, a Grey or Franciscan Friary was founded by Dermod McCarthy Rea, at Shandon, on the north side of the city. In 1229, a Doaoinicaii Friary arose on the present site of the convent of
' Th« original Danish city occupied only about half tha pace which WRS subsequently encompassed by walls.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 24

As the companion tells it

As you pass through Shandon, on the north side of Cork, this was where a Franciscan Friary was founded in 1214 by Dermod McCarthy Rea. It was one of several religious establishments erected and endowed in Cork during the thirteenth century.

Magical returning stone at Rostellan

Rostellan · townland · Cork

A stone in the demesne of Rostellan was said to possess the magical property of returning to its original position whenever it was removed. This folklore was recorded alongside the ghostly legend associated with the mansion.

Read the passage

A legend records that the proprietor who erected the mansion of Rostellan, having Liiflt it on the site of a graveyard, from which the bones were removed for the purpose, was so terrified on taking possession of the house by^the unearthly noises made by the spirits of those whose mortal remains he had disturbed, that ho fled from it, and never inhabited it after. There is also a stone in the demesne, said to possess the magical property, wlien removed, of returning to its original position.
A short distance from Aghada appears the neat village of Whitogate, on the marge of a bay formed by the semi -circular sweep of the shore. Opposite is the wood-robed headland of Curraghbinny, at the mouth of the Carrigaline river, the final tributary of the Lee At ks entrance is the fishing hamlet of Crosshaven, and further in,

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 43

Mathew Tower memorial to the Apostle of Temperance

near Blackrock · population centre · Cork

The Mathew Tower, with tall and slender turrets, rises at a commanding elevation on the opposite bank of the Lee from Blackrock Castle. It was erected by Mr. Connor in memory of the Apostle of Temperance, Father Theobald Mathew.

Read the passage

On the opposite bank, at a commanding elevation, rise the tall and slender turrets of tlie Mathew Tower, erected by Mr. Connor, in memory of the Apostle of Temperance. Nearer the margin of the river extend the sylvan glades of Dunkettle, adjoining which appear the castellated walls of Xorth-Esk, the seat of Jamc-& Carnegie, Esq. Between the verdure-robed hills in front of Blackrock Castle flows the lovely Glanmire river, through a romantic district of hill' and dale, glen and dingle, pasture and woodland. A littte bek/w the- mouth- of the Glanmire liver, the shores sweep away on either side, enclosing a noble expanse of waterr called Lough Mahon, from an old fortress of the Mahonics in tlie vicinity. On fine summer evenings the surface of the lough, studded with; the white sails of pleasure-boats, and gleaming, with tlie flash of oars, presents a gay and animated aspect.
•RIVER 5,CEM-:r.V — I'ASS-'-GK. ll'O

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 41

Shandon Church's 'pepper-box' steeple and its shark weathervane

near Shandon · locality · Cork

The steeple of Shandon Church is described as a unique architectural specimen, faced with two red-stone sides and two limestone sides, earning it the nickname 'the pepper-box steeple.' Its weathervane is shaped like a fish (possibly a shark) and its clock has a reputation for being unreliable.

Read the passage

We must now glance rapidly at some of the remaining public buildings. The steeple of Shaudon Church, being a perfectly unique specimen of architecture, first claims our notice. It has been wittily designated " the pepper-box steeple." It is faced with two red-stone sides, and two of limestone, which invest it with somewhat of a, harlequin aspect. If we may use a bull, its weather- cock is a fish (query — a shark?) which stubbornly resists the persuasions of your Zephyrs, and " soft souths ;" so that its office appears to be merely to indicate the direction of the latt gale. The steeple is also provided with ;i monster clock, which exhibits a perverse and vicious propensity for going wrong.
The Court House, referred to in a former chapter, iias been the object of special praise for its external beauty, and of unmeasured censure, on account of its internal construction, to every

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

As the companion tells it

Coming up now through Shandon, on the Cork side. The steeple of Shandon Church stands out as a perfectly unique specimen of architecture. People have wittily called it the pepper-box steeple. It is faced with two sides of red stone and two of limestone, which give it something of a harlequin aspect. Its weathercock is a fish, possibly a shark, which stubbornly resists the persuasions of the zephyrs and soft souths, so that its office appears to be merely to indicate the direction of the last gale. The steeple is also provided with a monster clock, which exhibits a perverse and vicious propensity for going wrong. The clock may tell you the wrong time, but the steeple itself is unmistakable, those two colours of stone marking it out from anything else you will see on this road.

Turkish Bath on Grenville Place erected by Dr. Barter

Cork · city · Cork

A Turkish Bath was erected on Grenville Place in the vicinity of the Mansion House by Dr. Barter. It has a handsome front, private dressing-rooms, and can accommodate about fifty bathers at a time.

Read the passage

On Grcnville-place, in the vicinity of the Mansion House, a Turkish Bath has been erected by Dr. Barter. It has a handsome front, is furnished with private dressing-rooms, and is capable of accommodating about fifty bathers at a time.
The Butter Exchange is a handsome building, with a fine portico. In 1849, it was considerably enlarged, chiefly at the instance of the Weigh Master, John Besnard, jun., Esq., J.P., and of the lute James Minhear, Esq., J.P., in whose death the butter trade has sustained the loss of one of its most valuable and estimable members.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

Carrigrohane Castle: from MacCarthys to the Barretts

near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork · 1462

Carrigrohane Castle, a picturesque fortress on a steep rock above the River Lee, was founded by the MacCarthys and later seized by the acquisitive Barrett clan. In 1462 it marked the boundary of the liberties of the city of Cork.

Read the passage

r)eep gloomy linnjor pool, aptly designated Ponfcn-Iffrin, or Hell-hole. A hideous snake or dragon of immense size is said to inhabit this pool. He watches vigilantly over untold treasures that lie buried beneath the waters, which he never quits except for an evening promenade 01* the banks of the river, where the marks of his paws have been sometimes discerned. Crofton Crokor has celebrated this pool as the chief haunt of that ubiquitous sprite, " Teiguf of the Lee." On the south side of the river, crr *ting a steep rock which rises perpendicularly above the road that winds at its base, stands the picturesque Castle of Carrigrohan. A few years ago it was a mouldering ruin, but has since been completely restored by Mr. M'Swiney, who now inhabits it. It Avas formerly a pile of considerable extent and massy strength. In 1462, it is mentioned as having been the boundary of the liberties or the city of Cork. Carrigrohan was founded by the MacCartMes, and came subsequently into the possession of those bold acquisitive Barretts, of whom we have already made mention. Their estates were forfeited at the Revolution, and in 1641 Carrigrohan was dismantled. It afterwards became the residence of Captain Cope, a daring- Jvapparec, who, at the head of a gang of brigands^

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 17

Woodhill and the marriage of Miss Curran

Woodhill · townland · Donegal

Woodhill, the seat of Mr. C. Penrose on the north side of the Lee, is associated with the marriage of Robert Emmet's betrothed, Miss Curran, to Captain Sturgeon. The author notes time has robbed the place of its romantic charm.

Read the passage

Of the residences on the north side ot the river, Woodhill, the seat of Mr. C. Penrose, is invested with a peculiar interest, owing to the circumstance of poor Emmet's bethrothcd, Miss Cumin,
A MONUMENT BY HOG AX. l^D

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 40

Pass of Keimaneigh rugged mountain pass

near Keimaneigh · pass · Cork

The Pass of Keimaneigh is described as about two miles in length from north to south, with rocky walls that are precipitous and picturesque near Gougaune Barra. The pass gradually widens as it approaches the Bantry side, disclosing a noble view of Bantry Bay.

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Leaving the Pass of Keimaneigh (which, we may remark, is about two miles in length from north to south), we return to the Lee. After issuing from the lake of Gougaune, the Lee flows in an eastern direction, through rocky banks, with a foaming and rapid current, to Ballingeary, where the Bunshelin, a small stream, falls into it. The country here is wild and barren, dotted at intervals with straggling herbage. The glen through which the Bunshelin flows is beautifully wild and sequestered, extending to the vicinity of the village of Ballyvourney. near which is a circular stone fort, with subterranean galleries. The Lee now expands into the broad sheet of water, called Lough Allua. The lake (or rather chain of lakes) is four miles in length, and about one in breadth It is studded with several islands formed by the windings of the Lee, in its sinuo us course through the soft, peaty soil of this extensive flat. At its western extremity rises the gloomy hill of Coolnegreenane, or the " mountain
16 THE RIVER LfcE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 7

Cork School of Art collection and medal successes

Cork · city · Cork · 1857–1858

The Cork School of Art was building a permanent museum of casts, frescoes, stained glass, and photographs, considered the best in the country for training artists and mechanics. In 1857 its students won fourteen local medals, and in 1858 twenty-one, under the head mastership of Mr. Sheil.

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Under the present excellent system of instruction, the Cork School of Art is gradually forming a permanent and valuable museum, admirably adapted for training both the artist and the artisan in the most elevated departments of high and mechanical art. At the annual competition for national medals in London, four medals have been obtained by Cork within the last two years ; and a gift of ten pounds being attached to each medal, to be given in works of art to the school in which the student who obtains it is educated, the school has been presented with works to the value of £40. These works consist of copies of Perugino's frescoes, with tracings from the ori-
86 THE RIVER LEE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala

Barryscourt and Belvelly castles on Great Island

near Great Island · townland · Cork · 1300–1399

Great Island belonged to the Hodnetts before passing to the Barrys in the fourteenth century, after which it was styled Barrymore. The Barrys built the strong castles of Barry's Court and Belvelly, whose remains were still visible in tolerable preservation.

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* It will suffice to mention here that the Great Island belonged formerly to the family of the Hodnetts, and passed into the possession of the Barrys, in the fourteenth century, whence it was styled Barrymore. The latter sept built the strong castles of Barry's-Court and Uelvelly, whose remains, in tolerable preservation, ai'e still visible on the island. It is seven miles in length, and nearly four jn breadth, containing in all about 13,009 acres.
ttOStELLAJf 135

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 43

Blarney's influence on Corkonians' famed eloquence

near Blarney · townland · Cork

The author attributes the Corkonians' renowned conversational proficiency to their propinquity to Blarney, suggesting the famous Blarney influence extends to all of Cork society. This cultural trait is presented as a defining characteristic of the city's inhabitants.

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Among this glib-tongued, but quick witted race, conversational power is the test of intellectual culture ; and for their proficiency in that gift they arc doubtless indebted to their propinquity to Blarney. Hence, they don't care a " thirn'en" (Anglice, a jackstraw) for a taciturn man, even were he a Tully or a Cicero, as one- of themselves would say ; but if you have a rr-ady tongue, plenty of money, and especially Ira*-; you will be courted and carressed to your heart's content in ;i the beautiful city."
The genus man is gregarious by instinct ; tho species Corkonian by temperament. Mercurial

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 34

Captain Cope the rapparee at Carrigrohane Castle

near Carrigrohane · townland · Cork · 1641

After being dismantled in 1641, Carrigrohane Castle became the residence of Captain Cope, a daring rapparee who led a gang of brigands from the stronghold. The castle was later restored by Mr. M'Swiney.

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r)eep gloomy linnjor pool, aptly designated Ponfcn-Iffrin, or Hell-hole. A hideous snake or dragon of immense size is said to inhabit this pool. He watches vigilantly over untold treasures that lie buried beneath the waters, which he never quits except for an evening promenade 01* the banks of the river, where the marks of his paws have been sometimes discerned. Crofton Crokor has celebrated this pool as the chief haunt of that ubiquitous sprite, " Teiguf of the Lee." On the south side of the river, crr *ting a steep rock which rises perpendicularly above the road that winds at its base, stands the picturesque Castle of Carrigrohan. A few years ago it was a mouldering ruin, but has since been completely restored by Mr. M'Swiney, who now inhabits it. It Avas formerly a pile of considerable extent and massy strength. In 1462, it is mentioned as having been the boundary of the liberties or the city of Cork. Carrigrohan was founded by the MacCartMes, and came subsequently into the possession of those bold acquisitive Barretts, of whom we have already made mention. Their estates were forfeited at the Revolution, and in 1641 Carrigrohan was dismantled. It afterwards became the residence of Captain Cope, a daring- Jvapparec, who, at the head of a gang of brigands^

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 17

Corporation ordered fresh water piped to Cork houses in 1697

Cork · city · Cork · 1697

On 30 July 1697, the Corporation of Cork ordered that Mr. Edward Richardson be given liberty to bring fresh water in pipes to every house in the city that would agree with him, with permission to break up pavement, to be completed within three years.

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At the period of the siege the city occupied about a tenth of the space it now covers. Shortly after that event, the marshes of the city began to be reclaimed, and some improvements to be introduced, as will be seen by the following extract from the Council Book of the Corporation of Cork :~_" 30th of July, 1697. Ordered that Mr. Edward Richardson, according to proposalls by him given in this day to the Councill, for bringing in fresh water in pipes to every house in the City, who shall agree with him, have liberty according to his proposall, of breaking up tlia
THE STREETS AXD QUAYS OF CORK. 69*

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 27

Siege of Cork by Maryborough, September 1690

Cork · city · Cork · 1690

The siege of Cork by Maryborough and the Duke of Wirtemburgh in September 1690 was the most important historical event connected with the city. Despite embattled walls, Cork held out only five days because surrounding steep hills gave any occupier command of the city.

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The siege of Cork, by Maryborough, and the Ihike of Wirtemburgh, in September, 1690, is the most important historical event connected with the city. Nature has precluded Cork by its position from ever becoming a place of military strength. Surrounded by steep hills, it must inevitably be at the mercy of an enemy who obtains possession of them ; and so, despite its embattled wails at the period of the siege, it held out but five days against an army much inferior iu numerical strength to that which had unsuccessfully attacked Limerick a few weeks before.
* Tvdcey"t Cork Remembrancer, pp., 71-75.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 26

Victoria Baths near Passage

Passage West · town · Cork

A little below Passage are the Victoria Baths, a handsome building with tapering minarets in the Moresque style. The proprietor has also erected a Turkish Bath, intended as an inducement for the citizens of Cork to visit this charming locality.

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A little below Passage are the Victoria Baths, a very handsome and effective building, with tapering minarets in the Moresque style. The proprietor has erected a Turkish Bath, which will be an additional inducement to the citizens of Cork to visit this charming locality. Behind the Victoria Baths is visible Carrigmahon, Dr. Curtin's hydropathic establishment (which also possesses a Turkish Bath) charmingly posited on the crest of a wooded and verdant height. The road beneath winds beside the river, through a mass of steep rocks that rise, in a series of distinct ledges, to a considerable height above the water. A legend raffirms that these rocks were piled up by an Irish giant, named Mahony, whence their designation, " The Giant's Stairs."
Monkstown is one of the most picturesque localities on the river. It occupies the gorge of a romantic glen, and the pretty detached cottages and handsome terraces of which it is composed are spread along the slope of a gently rising acclivity. About midway on the ascent tapers the graceful spire of the church ; and a

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 42

Cathedral of St. Finnbar library sealed to the reading public of Cork

Cork · city · Cork

The library of the Cathedral of St. Finnbar comprised a valuable collection of theological and historical works, but it was hermetically sealed to the reading public of Cork, to whom its existence was scarcely known.

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The only other library worthy of notice is that of the Cathedral of St. Finnbar. It comprises a valuable collection of theological and historical works ; but it is hermetically sealed to the reading public of Cork, to whom its existence is scarcely known.
The apartments appropriated to the School of Design form a portion of the premises of the Cork Institution. In 1848, the upper part of that building having undergone alterations and improvements, the school was accordingly opened und several pupils received. A few years since the collection of casts already mentioned were removed from the cheerless and mouldy room in which they had been entombed for years, to the more airy apartments in which they are placed at present, where, freed from the dust and mould contracted in their former quarters, they now appear in somewhat of their pristine beauty. The people of Cork do not sufficiently appreciate the value of the truly splendid art-treasures they possess in these casts. Gazing upon these godlike forms as they shine out in the softened light upon the enraptured vision, we feel the full meaning and beauty of that fine metaphorical expression so felicitously applied to the peerless

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 29

Proposed Grand Parade front for Meat and Fish Market

Grand Parade · street · Cork

A plan to erect a handsome front on the Grand Parade for the city's Meat and Fish Market prompted a wit to suggest the city motto be changed to a Latin pun about dogs and trust. This reflects the Corkonian love of wordplay applied to civic improvements.

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* As an instance of this pun-loving propensity, we may mention that a few years ago it was intended to erect a handsome front on the Grand Parade to the Meat and Fish Market, and a wag at once suggested that the city motto miirl't he advantageously changed for that bite into " tie.ti* If ne fide caniln."
100 TU.E EIVKR M-:E.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 33

School of Design opened 1848 in Cork Institution building with Vatican casts

Cork · city · Cork · 1848

In 1848, the upper part of the Cork Institution building underwent alterations and the School of Design was opened with several pupils. The collection of Vatican casts, previously entombed for years in a cheerless and mouldy room, was removed to more airy apartments where they appeared in somewhat of their pristine beauty, including the celebrated Apollo Belvedere and the Laocoon group.

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The apartments appropriated to the School of Design form a portion of the premises of the Cork Institution. In 1848, the upper part of that building having undergone alterations and improvements, the school was accordingly opened und several pupils received. A few years since the collection of casts already mentioned were removed from the cheerless and mouldy room in which they had been entombed for years, to the more airy apartments in which they are placed at present, where, freed from the dust and mould contracted in their former quarters, they now appear in somewhat of their pristine beauty. The people of Cork do not sufficiently appreciate the value of the truly splendid art-treasures they possess in these casts. Gazing upon these godlike forms as they shine out in the softened light upon the enraptured vision, we feel the full meaning and beauty of that fine metaphorical expression so felicitously applied to the peerless
82 THE RIVER LEE.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 29

Butter Exchange enlarged in 1849

Cork · city · Cork · 1849

The Butter Exchange, a handsome building with a fine portico, was considerably enlarged in 1849, chiefly at the instance of Weigh Master John Besnard and the late James Minhear, whose death was a loss to the butter trade.

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The Butter Exchange is a handsome building, with a fine portico. In 1849, it was considerably enlarged, chiefly at the instance of the Weigh Master, John Besnard, jun., Esq., J.P., and of the lute James Minhear, Esq., J.P., in whose death the butter trade has sustained the loss of one of its most valuable and estimable members.
The new Police Office (designed by Sir John Benson) is a tasteful structure, although its effect is considerably marred by a block of dilapidated tenements immediately in front. The former Police OHice was a confined and unhealthy court, and the new one is a considerable improvement pnifc,

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 32

Gas lighting and water supply come to Queenstown

Cobh · municipal district · Cork

Queenstown (now Cobh) saw significant recent improvements following the introduction of the Towns' Improvement Act, including gas illumination and a reliable water supply. These reforms made the town more attractive to pleasure-seekers and invalids.

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Of late years Queenstown has been considerably improved. It was only within the last twelve months that the Towns' Improvement Act has been introduced with very beneficial effects. The greater part of the town is now illumined by gas, and a Water Company provide the inhabitants with an abundant supply of that necessary liquor. These improvements render the place far more attractive to pleasure-seekers and invalids than it had hitherto been, and thus its denizens will reap additional benefits from these reforms.
In 1848, Lord Middletoh erected a splendid limestone quay, which extends over a mile from the town, as far as Whitcpoint This is now a favourite promenade. From any of the surrounding heights beautiful views can be obtained

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 43

Shanakiel House above the Lee weirs

near Shanakiel · townland · Cork

Above the salmon weirs, on an eminence at the northern side of the river, stands Shanakiel House, seat of Francis R. Leahy, J.P. It is beautifully situated in a well-wooded demesne and commands a noble prospect up and down the stream.

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Above the weirs, on an eminence at the northern side of the river, is seen Shanakiel House, the seat of Francis R. Leahy, Esq., J.P. It is beautifully situated in a weil-wcoded demesne, and commands a noble prospect up and down the stream.
The approach to Cork by the western suburbs is strikingly beautiful. To the left appear the wooded heights of Sunday's Well (so called from its ancient saered fountain) with its gardencovered slopes thickly studded with pretty villas.

Internet Archive riverleecorkcork00codyiala, Chapter 18

The river Lee, Cork, and the Corkonians

The stories, best first

King's Castle and Queen's Old Castle guarded Cork's port

Queen's College, Cork, and its design

Rev. Charles Wolfe buried in Clonmel churchyard

Bob Twiss's 1775 satire on Cork citizens' appetites

Castlemore, former keep of the M'Carthies

Failure of periodical literature in Cork

Gougane Barra island as refuge for the persecuted

Holy Well Pilgrimages at Gougane Barra

Lough Allua chain of lakes on the Lee

Pass of Keimaneigh: Rugged Defile

Class exclusiveness and social hierarchy in Cork society

Cork described as a "pretty slattern"

Cork women gathering water at fountains and river-side

Earl of Tyrone at Caatleinore near Mallow

Equestrian statue of George II in the Parade, Cork

Fynes Morrison on Cork's dirtiness, c. 1600

Grand Parade arched over and Mall promenade

O'Mahony the Ascetic's Tomb at Gougane Barra

Patrick Street and the Parade as fashionable promenades

Picturesque irregularity of Cork's streets

Island ruins at Gougane Barra: chapel and hermit cells

Mansion House converted from corporate hall to hospital

Ovens hamlet and its limestone caverns on the Bride

Statues of Chatham and William III at Cork Mansion House

Vast marsh at Toon Bridge on the Lee

Coolmore and Hoddersfield demesnes on the Lee

County Court House and Cork's principal thoroughfares

Passage West town and Victoria Dock

Rostellan estate and the O'Briens of Thomond

Votive Rags on Island Cross at Gougane Barra

Circular stone fort near Ballyvourney

Government grant withdrawn from Royal Cork Institution due to sectarianism

Hogan monument at St. Michael's church, Blackrock

James II landed at Kinsale before entering Cork

Cork city walls, towers and gates under chronic siege

Old church of Inniscarra founded by St. Senan

Source of the Lee from Nadan-uityer Mountain

Chair of Celtic Literature at Queen's College called a sham

Cork's tradition of princely charitable giving

Franciscan Friary founded at Shandon

Magical returning stone at Rostellan

Mathew Tower memorial to the Apostle of Temperance

Shandon Church's 'pepper-box' steeple and its shark weathervane

Turkish Bath on Grenville Place erected by Dr. Barter

Carrigrohane Castle: from MacCarthys to the Barretts

Woodhill and the marriage of Miss Curran

Pass of Keimaneigh rugged mountain pass

Cork School of Art collection and medal successes

Barryscourt and Belvelly castles on Great Island

Blarney's influence on Corkonians' famed eloquence

Captain Cope the rapparee at Carrigrohane Castle

Corporation ordered fresh water piped to Cork houses in 1697

Siege of Cork by Maryborough, September 1690

Victoria Baths near Passage

Cathedral of St. Finnbar library sealed to the reading public of Cork

Proposed Grand Parade front for Meat and Fish Market

School of Design opened 1848 in Cork Institution building with Vatican casts

Butter Exchange enlarged in 1849

Gas lighting and water supply come to Queenstown

Shanakiel House above the Lee weirs