Sketches in Carbery, county Cork, : its antiquities, history, legends, and topography

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1. Giant Cruathur O'Careavaun buried at Kilkieran

   Kilkieran · townland · Clare · 1750–1780

   A celebrated giant named Cruathur O'Careavaun (Cornelius O'Driscoll), said to be eight feet tall and of incredible strength, lived on Cape Clear about a century before the book's writing. He died at Dunanore Castle and was buried near Trakeiran within Kilkieran burial ground, where his unusually large grave is still pointed out.

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   The grave where the_ giant was buried is still pointed out near Trakeiran, within the precincts of Kilkieran burial ground. It is about 8| feet long, with a rude uninscribed headstone. Popular tradition, and the exceptionally large dimensions of the grave identify the locality.

   A coastguard station was formerly established close to South Harbour, but it has not been occupied for many years.

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   As the companion tells it

   Near here, in the burial ground of Kilkieran, lies the grave of a giant. Cruathur O'Careavaan, also called Cornelius O'Driscoll, was said to stand eight feet tall and of incredible strength. He lived on Cape Clear and died at Dunanore Castle. His grave near Trakeiran is about 8 feet long, with a rude uninscribed headstone, still pointed out today.

2. Sherkin Abbey tower and Wishing Chair

   near Sherkin Island · townland · Cork

   The abbey tower is well preserved and can be ascended via a geometrical spiral staircase of free-stone steps. From the summit ledge, called the Wishing Chair, visitors gain panoramic views of the Ilen estuary, Cape Clear, Baltimore harbour, Roaring Water Bay, and Mount Gabriel.

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   The Abbey Tower is in good preservation, and, having entered by a narrow, dark orifice, arched over with cut-stone, we can ascend at our leisure the spiral staircase which conducts us in safety to the summit of the tower or belfry. This staircase is what is commonly described as a geometrical one. Each step is of free-stone, about two anda-half to three feet long, pyramidal in shape, the base or outer end of the pyramid being implanted in the surrounding wall, and the inner detached and narrow end supporting the step above, and being supported by the one beneath ; and so on to the top. In one or two places the steps have been destroyed. There is a small loop-hole in the walls, about every twelve steps, to admit light. At last we reach the ledge which surmounts the entire structure, and carefully steal along around the entire circumference, until we reach the Wishing Chair, from which airy eminence we obtain a most charming view. We observe the Hen winding picturesquely through the clusters of rocky islets which stud its mouth ; the high land of Cape, and the broad blue ocean to the south ; the romantic harbour of Baltimore, and the rugged seacoast in the background; and, turning our gaze westward,we espy Eoaring Water Bay (Lough Trasnagh), with some of Carbery's Hundred Isles stretched out before us as on a map ; and the bleak, bold, and barren Mount Gabriel looming out in the distance, clearly and well defined.

   Before concluding our notice of Sherkin it may be interesting to describe the subterranean caves or chambers, which were explored a few years ago. Starting from the Abbey and Duuelong Castle, which

   Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 4

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Sherkin Island stands an old abbey tower, still in good preservation. You enter through a narrow, dark opening, arched over with cut-stone, and from there a spiral staircase carries you safely up to the summit. It is what is called a geometrical stair. Each step is cut from free-stone, about two and a half to three feet long, pyramidal in shape. The broad outer end of each step is set into the surrounding wall, while the narrow inner end hangs free, supporting the step above and resting on the one below, all the way to the top. In one or two places the steps have been destroyed. A small loop-hole appears in the walls about every twelve steps to let in light. At the top you reach a ledge that runs around the whole structure, and you move carefully along it until you come to the Wishing Chair. From that airy height the view opens out in every direction. The Ilen winds picturesquely among the clusters of rocky islets at its mouth. You see the high land of Cape Clear and the broad blue ocean to the south, the harbour of Baltimore, and the rugged seacoast beyond. Turning west, there is Roaring Water Bay, with some of Carbery's Hundred Isles spread out like a map, and the bleak, bold, barren Mount Gabriel rising in the distance.

3. Shipwreck of Italian barque Pulcinello, 1874

   Blind Harbour · harbour · Mayo · 1874

   In February 1874, the Italian barque Pulcinello was shipwrecked during a terrible gale at the mouth of Blind Harbour. All hands were lost except a young Italian boy, who was flung ashore by a wave and rescued the next morning by local inhabitants.

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   ■workmanship. Here alse is a peculiar-looking tomb, built of large stone slabs in the form of a truncated pyramid ; it was the burying-place of the O'Donovans of Bawnlahane. From this spot we get a good view out to sea and along the coast. Immediately facing us, at a short' distance, we perceive High and Low Island; the latter was formerly called Arahas Island, and was occupied by a small cbapel, near the site of which persons from the mainland were buried. On Babbit's Island, near Squince, a holy well dedicated to St. Bridget at one time nourished. The country people used to congregate there on the eve of St. Bridget to offer up their devotions. However, some years ago a boat was capsized, returning late one evening from the island, and some people drowned. Since then the well has been neglected, and another well on the mainland, in a little sequestered nook near Squince coastguard station, fulfils the office of its predecessor. The sea near Squince runs inland for a short distance, forming a peculiar inlet, which ends in a cul-de-sac. It is called in Irish, Cuan-caech, and in English, Blind Harbour. Close to the beach we observe Squince House, formerly the seat of the O'Donovans of Squince, of the Clanloughlin branch, celebrated for their hospitality. At the mouth of Blind Harbour, in February, 1874, an Italian barque, the "Pulcinello" was shipwrecked during a terrible gale. Driven in near the shore by the fury of the gale, she foundered in the harbour. All hands were lost, with the exception of a young Italian boy, who had a miraculous escape. He was flung ashore by a wave which washed over the ship's deck, and before the succeeding wave could overtake him he contrived to scramble beyond the reach of the tide, holding on by the grass and fems. He was picked up next morning in an ex-

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   This is the wreck site of the Italian barque Pulcinello, lost at the mouth of Blind Harbour in February 1874. The sea near Squince runs inland for a short distance, forming a peculiar inlet that ends in a cul-de-sac, called in Irish Cuan-caech. Close to the beach stood Squince House, formerly the seat of the O'Donovans of Squince, of the Clanloughlin branch, celebrated for their hospitality. During a terrible gale, the Pulcinello was driven in near the shore by the fury of the gale and foundered in the harbour. All hands were lost, with the exception of a young Italian boy, who had a miraculous escape. He was flung ashore by a wave which washed over the ship's deck, and before the succeeding wave could overtake him he contrived to scramble beyond the reach of the tide, holding on by the grass and ferns. He was picked up next morning by local inhabitants. Off the shore near Squince lie High and Low Island. The latter was formerly called Arahas Island, and was occupied by a small chapel, near the site of which persons from the mainland were buried. On Babbit's Island, near Squince, a holy well dedicated to Saint Bridget once flourished. The country people used to congregate there on the eve of Saint Bridget to offer up their devotions. But some years ago a boat was capsized, returning late one evening from the island, and some people drowned. Since then the well has been neglected, and another well on the mainland, in a little sequestered nook near Squince coastguard station, fulfils the office of its predecessor.

4. Castle of Dunashad attacked, ruins still visible at Baltimore

   Baltimore · town · Cork · 1537

   The Waterford forces attacked the ancient Castle of Dunashad at Baltimore and set fire to the town. The ruins of the castle can still be observed, commanding a fine view of the harbour.

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   out an armed expedition against this place. Some ships, laden with wine from Portugal and consigned to Waterford, were driven ashore in a tempest on the neighbouring coast. These ships were plundered by Fineen O'Driscoll and his sons, who were the chieftains of Baltimore at the time. When intelligence of this outrage reached Waterford, great indignation prevailed, and the mayor of that city immediately sent a force of 300 men under the command of a Captain Woodlock to resent the injury. They landed in Sherkin, ravaged the island, destroyed the villages and a Franciscan friary which had been established there, and also besieged a fortress called the Castle of Dun along, which they took by storm. They burnt all the galleys and pinnaces belonging to O'Driscoll, set fire to Baltimore, and attacked the ancient Castle of Dunashad, the ruins of which may be observed at the present day, commanding a fine view of the harbour.

   Smith in his " History of Cork" describes a curious incident connected with the attack on this old castle. " A William Grant, one of the seamen, was on the top of the castle, which, being all on fire under him, he stood upon a pinnacle and cried out for assistance. One Butler tied a small cord to an arrow, and shot it up to Grant, by means of which cord he drew up a rope, which he fastened to the pinnacle, and slid down safe to his companions, after which the army arrived safe in Waterford."

   Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 3

   As the companion tells it

   As the road brings you near Baltimore in Cork, the town carries a story from 1537. It began when ships carrying wine from Portugal, bound for Waterford, were driven ashore by a tempest on the neighbouring coast. Fineen O'Driscoll and his sons, the chieftains of Baltimore, plundered the wrecked vessels. When word of the outrage reached Waterford, great indignation prevailed. The mayor sent a force of 300 men under a Captain Woodlock to punish those responsible. They landed on Sherkin, ravaged the island, destroyed its villages and a Franciscan friary, and stormed a fortress called the Castle of Dun along. They burnt the galleys and pinnaces belonging to O'Driscoll, set fire to Baltimore, and attacked the ancient Castle of Dunashad. The ruins of that castle can still be seen, commanding a fine view of the harbour. During the assault, a seaman named William Grant was atop the castle, which was all on fire beneath him. He stood on a pinnacle and cried out for help. One Butler tied a small cord to an arrow and shot it up to Grant. By means of that cord Grant drew up a rope, fastened it to the pinnacle, and slid down safe to his companions. After that the army arrived safe in Waterford.

5. Coppinger's Court ruins at Ballyverine

   Ballyvireen · townland · Cork · 1600–1641

   The ruins of Ballyverine House, or Coppinger's Court, built in the early 17th century by Sir Walter Coppinger in Elizabethan style, stand about half a mile from Millcove. Tradition held it had a chimney for every month, a door for every week, and a window for every day of the year. It was the largest house in Carbery during the 18th century.

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   At the head of the valley through which the Eowry river runs, and about half-a-mile from Milcove, stand the ruins of Ballyverine House, or Coppin ger's Court as it is more familiarly called, which according to Smith, during the 18th century was the largest house in Carbery, and which, according to popular tradition, had a chimney for every month a door for every week, and a window for every day in the year.

   Whether we are to give credence to the latter statement or not must be a matter for consideration, but still there is strong evidence from observing the ruins as they exist at present that the house must

   Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 14

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here stand the ruins of Ballyverine House, or Coppinger's Court. Sir Walter Coppinger built it in the early 17th century in the Elizabethan style, and during the 18th century it was the largest house in Carbery. Popular tradition gave it a chimney for every month, a door for every week, and "a window for every day in the year." The ruins sit at the head of the valley where the Eowry river runs, near Millcove.

6. Petroleum explosion at South Harbour, Cape Clear, 1869

   South Harbour · estuary · Cork · 1869

   In December 1869, a cabin near South Harbour on Cape Clear Island was destroyed by the explosion of a cask of petroleum recovered as wreck cargo from the beach. Five people lost their lives; the heat was so intense that delf ware and glass bottles fused into a single mass.

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   In a cabin close to South Harbour, during the month of December, 1869, a most disastrous accident occurred, owing to the explosion of a quantity of petroleum (rock ' oil), a most explosive compound. The cask containing the fluid was picked up not far from the beach, a portion of wreck cargo. The captors proceeded to divide the spoil, but unibrtu-

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   As the companion tells it

   In December 1869, a cabin close to South Harbour was destroyed when a cask of petroleum exploded. The cask had been picked up near the beach, part of some wreck cargo. Those who found it began to divide the spoil. Five people lost their lives. The heat was so intense that delf ware and glass bottles fused together into a single mass.

7. Spanish fishermen and the naming of Spain near Baltimore

   Baltimore · town · Cork

   In ancient times, Spanish fishermen frequently visited the vicinity of Cape Clear and Baltimore, occasionally residing on the island. A portion of the mainland near Baltimore still retains the name of Spain because of this historical association.

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   In ancient times, when Spain was more flourishing than she is at present, the Spanish fishermen frequented the vicinity of Cape and Baltimore in great numbers, and used to reside upon the island occasionally. A neighbouring portion of the mainland, near Baltimore, owing to this circumstance, still retains the name of Spain, During the last century the I^psale fishermen also were in the habit of building huts in Cape, during the fishing season, where they cured the fish. During the summer months the native fishermen man their hookers and boats, and -nearly all the adult population weigh anchor every Monday or Tuesday morning, and proceed far out to sea— the hookers steering for the Durseys, and the open boats for the neighbourhood of the Fastnett. Sometimes, in pursuit of their calling, they go thirty leagues off the land; they remain out during the week, and return on Friday or Saturday with their cargoes of hake, ling, codfish, congers, and other deep sea-fish on board, then they anchor near St. Kieran's strand, and soon the beach is covered with the captured spoil of the finny tribe.

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   Baltimore is a town the road passes through on this coast of Cork. Long ago, when Spain was more flourishing than it is now, Spanish fishermen came in great numbers to the waters around Cape Clear and Baltimore. They used to live on the island from time to time. Because of this, a part of the mainland near Baltimore still carries the name of Spain. In the last century, the Ipsale fishermen also built huts on Cape Clear during the fishing season, and cured their fish there. The native fishermen had their own routine. In summer they manned their hookers and boats, and nearly all the grown population would weigh anchor on a Monday or Tuesday morning and head far out to sea. The hookers steered for the Durseys, and the open boats for the neighbourhood of the Fastnet. Sometimes they went thirty leagues off the land in pursuit of their catch. They stayed out all week and returned on Friday or Saturday with hake, ling, cod, congers, and other deep-sea fish on board.

8. Thompson's Deep Sea Fishery Company at Glandore

   near Glandore · population centre · Cork

   One of Thompson's more practicable projects was establishing a Deep Sea Fishery Company to develop fisheries along the south coast, making Glandore the chief depot. Like his other schemes, it fell through after his death in 1832.

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   One of Thompson's more practicable and reasonable speculations was the establishment of a Deep Sea Fishery Company to superintend and develop the fisheries along the south coast, making Glandore the chief depot and centre of action, but this, like the other projects, fell to the ground. In his will he bequeathed his body to his medical attendant, giving most minute particulars as to the preparation of the skeleton, and how the ribs were to be tipped with silver, that it might present a fashionable appearance. A phrenologist named Monsieur Baume came

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   As you come through Glandore, this was to have been the chief depot of Thompson's Deep Sea Fishery Company. Thompson set out to superintend and develop the fisheries along the south coast, with Glandore as his centre of action. Like his other projects, it fell to the ground after his death in 1832. He left strange instructions in his will, bequeathing his body to his medical attendant with minute particulars for preparing the skeleton, even specifying that the ribs were to be tipped with silver so it might present a fashionable appearance. A phrenologist named Monsieur Baume came to examine it.

9. Walter Coppinger of Cloughane intrudes on O'Driscoll lands

   Clonakilty · town · Cork · 1603–1620

   While Sir Fineen O'Driscoll was in England, Walter Coppinger of Cloughane intruded upon the greater part of his possessions, causing the ancient O'Driscoll family to fall into decay. Coppinger had previously served as arbitrator in a land dispute between Sir Fineen and his relative Fynine Karragh.

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   The Queen, on being informed of O'Driscoll's liberality to the fleet, pardoned his joining the Spaniards, and sent for him to Court ; but, before his arrival, her Majesty died, and during his absence in England, Smith tells us " the great part of his possessions were intruded into by Sir Waiter Coppinger, which caused this ancient family to fall into decay." "Walter Coppinger, of Cloughane, gent., had, on previous occasions, been an arbitrator in deciding a dispute regarding landed property between Sir Fineen and 9, near relative of his, named Fynine Karragh. Ac-

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   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Clonakilty, you're in country that once belonged to the O'Driscolls. Sir Fineen O'Driscoll had been called to England after the Queen pardoned him for joining the Spaniards, but she died before he arrived. While he was away, Walter Coppinger of Cloughane seized the great part of his possessions, causing this ancient family to fall into decay. Coppinger had earlier served as arbitrator in a land dispute between Sir Fineen and his relative Fynine Karragh, so he knew these lands well.

10. Dean Swift's residence at Myross and his Latin poem

    Myross · townland · Cork · 1723

    Dean Jonathan Swift resided for about six months at Rock Cottage in Myross, visiting the Rev. Thomas Somerville. He made excursions along the coast between Glandore and Baltimore, and in June 1723 wrote a Latin hexameter poem called 'Carberiae Rupees' inspired by the scenery, which he personally preferred to many of his other writings.

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    One of the most interesting facts connected with Myross is the residence there for about six months of the celebrated Dean Swift, during which time he dwelt at Eock Cottage, it is said (the residence of J. Frenoh, Esq.), being on a visit with a clergyman of the district^ the Eev. Thomas Somerville. The Dean was in the habit of making excursions along the coast, between Glandore and Baltimore, and the impressions produced on his mind by the scenery he observed found expression in a Latin poem, written in hexameter verse, and styled " Carberiae Eupes," which he wrote in June, 1723. It is a curious fact that Swift should have preferred this poem and an epistle in Latin verse to Dr. Sheridan to any of his other writings, for although the metre is perfect, and the style classical, still there is nothing particularly brilliant in the subject matter of the poem. In the same way Milton preferred " Paradise Eegained" to " Paradise Lost," and Byron " A Paraphrase on Horace's Art of Poetry," a production of mediocre ability, to his magnificent poem " Childe Harold" (before the publication of the latter), the manuscript of which lay neglected in his trunk until his friend Hobhouse awaked the poet's consciousness to some idea of its great merits.

    The reader can judge from these facts how a person may be a great poet or prose writer, and still a very poor critic of his own works ; like the medical man, who can never prescribe well for himself when he gets sick, but requires the friendly aid of another to diagnose and treat his disease skilfully.

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    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here in Myross, Dean Jonathan Swift spent about six months living at Rock Cottage, on a visit with the Reverend Thomas Somerville, a clergyman of the district. That was in 1723. Swift made excursions along the coast between Glandore and Baltimore, and the scenery he saw moved him to write a Latin poem in hexameter verse called Carberiae Rupees. He finished it in June of that year. What is curious is that Swift preferred this poem, and a Latin verse epistle he wrote to Dr. Sheridan, to many of his other writings. The metre is perfect and the style is classical, but there is nothing particularly brilliant in the subject matter. The book draws a comparison. Milton preferred Paradise Regained to Paradise Lost. Byron preferred A Paraphrase on Horace's Art of Poetry to his magnificent poem Childe Harold. Byron's manuscript of Childe Harold lay neglected in his trunk until his friend Hobhouse woke him to some idea of its merits. The writer says you can judge from these facts how a great poet or prose writer may still be a very poor critic of his own works, like a medical man who can never prescribe well for himself when he gets sick.

11. Fastnet Rock lighthouse and shipwrecks

    near Fastnet Rock · townland · Cork

    The present lighthouse, described as the most important on the Irish coast, was erected about five miles from Cape Clear on the Fastnet Rock, which resembles the culminating point of a submerged mountain. In former times many shipwrecks occurred on this rock.

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    A short distance westward along the coast brings us to the summit of the highest cliff in the island (Eoile Cahill), and here, at an elevation of 480 feet above the sea, a lighthouse was formerly erected by the Corporation for Improving the Port of Dublin. It exhibited a bright revolving light of 21 lamps, of which seven became visible every two minutes. In clear weather the light was seen from all points out to sea at a distance of 28 nautical miles. Unfortunately, however, in foggy weather, owing to the high elevation, the light was greatly obscured by cloud and mist, rendering this very indispensable lighthouse for' the time being comparatively useless to ships _ approaching the land. Consequently the place was condemned, the lantern removed, and the present lighthouse — the most important on the Irish coast — erected, about five miles from Cape, on' the celebrated Fastnett Rock, which looks in the distance like the culminating point of a submerged mountain, and on which rock, in former times, many a shipwreck took place.

    The old lighthouse was constructed with great care, and no expense appears to have been spared : the building materials were solely stone and iron. The floors and spiral staircase are composed of granite brought specially from Dublin. The pyramidal and circular blocks of granite in each floor are so carefully and evenly adjusted, as to resemble a Mosaic pavement. Iron girders, and stanchions support, and give wonderful strength to the walls and lofts. On,

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    Somewhere around here, close to Fastnet Rock, stands the present lighthouse, described as the most important on the Irish coast. It was erected about five miles from Cape Clear, on a rock that looks in the distance like the culminating point of a submerged mountain. In former times, many a shipwreck took place on this rock. Before this lighthouse was built, there was another, on the summit of the highest cliff in the island, Eoile Cahill, at 480 feet above the sea. The Corporation for Improving the Port of Dublin erected it. It showed a bright revolving light of 21 lamps, of which seven became visible every two minutes. In clear weather the light was seen from all points out to sea at 28 nautical miles. But in foggy weather, owing to the high elevation, the light was greatly obscured by cloud and mist, rendering this indispensable lighthouse comparatively useless to ships approaching the land. The place was condemned, the lantern removed, and the present lighthouse erected on Fastnet Rock. The old lighthouse was constructed with great care, and no expense appears to have been spared. The building materials were solely stone and iron. The floors and spiral staircase are composed of granite brought specially from Dublin. The granite blocks in each floor are so carefully adjusted as to resemble a Mosaic pavement. Iron girders and stanchions support and give strength to the walls and lofts.

12. Cape Clear islanders' livelihood: fisheries and smuggling

    Clear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    The poor, shallow soil of Cape Clear Island meant the hardy natives depended largely on the prosperity of fisheries and the success of their pilotage for subsistence. In former times they supplemented their income with occasional smuggling and the appropriation of flotsam and jetsam from the sea.

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    As the soil, except on the north side of the island, is poor, shallow, and unproductive, covered with heath and furze and stone walls in abundance, the hardy natives, in order to procure a livelihood, must depend in a great measure on the prosperity of the fisheries and the success of their pilotage. They cannot now, as in the good old times, supplement their ordinary mode of subsistence by a little smuggling on the sly, the landing of an occasional contraband cargo, and the appropriation of the stray waifs of the ocean, the Flotsam and Jetsam of the

    \\2 Sketches in Carhery,

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    As the companion tells it

    Clear Island sits off the Cork coast. The soil here is poor, shallow, and unproductive, covered with heath and furze and stone walls. The hardy natives had to depend on the prosperity of the fisheries and the success of their pilotage to earn a living. In former times they could supplement their subsistence by a little smuggling on the sly, landing an occasional contraband cargo, and taking the stray waifs of the ocean, the flotsam and jetsam of the sea. That is over now.

13. Ship guided into South Harbour by candlelight

    Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork · 1746–1756

    About 120 years before the book's writing, a large vessel homeward bound from the West Indies was overtaken by a storm near Cape Clear. The captain steered her during the night into the harbour by the light of a candle from a cabin on the island, arriving safely in the basin.

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    The following strange story is related by Smith in connection with South Harbour. "About 120 years ago a large vessel, with a valuable cargo on board, homeward bound from the "West Indies, was overtaken by a storm near Cape Clear. She was in great danger, having several feet of water in her hold, and the captain, fearing that she would not remain afloat until morning— whether by good luck or good management it is impossible to say — steered her during the night into the harbour by the light of a candle from a cabin on the island. Great was his amazement the following morning to find himself safely deposited in a snug basin, though- quite io-norant of the locality, as he had lost his reckoning cfuring the gale." This was certainly a hairbreadth escape, as, had he deviated in the slightest' degree from the narrow channel leading in,

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    Somewhere in Cape Clear, a story has lasted. About 120 years before it was written down, a large vessel was sailing home from the West Indies with a valuable cargo when a storm overtook her near the island. She had several feet of water in her hold and the captain feared she would not stay afloat until morning. Whether by luck or good management, he steered her through the night into South Harbour, guided only by the light of a candle burning in a cabin on the island. "Great was his amazement" the next morning to find himself safely in a snug basin. He had lost his reckoning during the gale and did not know where he was. It was a hairbreadth escape. Had he deviated in the slightest degree from the narrow channel leading in, he would have been lost.

14. Bishop O'Herlihy native of Kilmacabea, buried at Kilcrea

    Kilmacabea · townland · Cork · 1563–1579

    Bishop Thomas O'Herlihy, who sat from 1563 to 1570, was present at the Council of Trent as one of only three Irish bishops who attended. He died in 1579 and was buried in Kilcrea Abbey; he was a native of the parish of Kilmacabea, near Leap.

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    In the reign of King John, the cantred ofEoss- Allithri, with its appurtenances, excluding the demesnes of the bishop, was granted by the king to Adam DeEupe (or Eoehe), by his supplying the service of six knights. Along line of bishops is' mentioned by Smith, from Benedict, in 1172, to Thomas O'Herlihy, who sat from 1563 to 1570. The latter was present at the Council of Trent (one out-of the three Irish bishops who attended that great Coun-' cil), and died in 1579, and is buried in Kilcrea Abbey: Dr. O'Herlihy was a native of the parish of Kilmacabea, near Leap.

    In the previous century a very distinguishedprelate was Bishop of Eoss, viz., Dr. Edmund Courcy, who was translated from Clogher to the See of Eoss in 1491. He was originally a Franciscan monk in Timoleague Abbey, which, as already referred to, he enriched and re-edified. His mortuary chapel is still in existence, though in ruins, within the ancient walls of Timoleague Abbey. He was succeeded by O'Murrily, abbot of the Monastery at Carigilihy, in Myross {Be Fonte Vivo).

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, close to Kilmacabea, a bishop of Ross was born. Thomas O'Herlihy sat from 1563 to 1570, and Smith records a long line of bishops stretching back to Benedict in 1172. O'Herlihy stands out among them. He travelled to the Council of Trent, one of only three Irish bishops who attended that great Council. He died in 1579 and is buried in Kilcrea Abbey. The book calls him a native of the parish of Kilmacabea, near Leap. An earlier bishop of Ross also left his mark. Edmund Courcy was translated from Clogher to the See of Ross in 1491. He had been a Franciscan monk in Timoleague Abbey, which he enriched and re-edified. His mortuary chapel still stands, though in ruins, within the ancient walls of Timoleague Abbey. He was succeeded by O'Murrily, abbot of the monastery at Carigilihy, in Myross.

15. Cahal O'Donovan seizes Drimoleague from O'Driscolls

    Drimoleague · town · Cork

    Cahal O'Donovan, son of Crom, was forced from his Limerick territories by the Fitzgeralds and seized a territory in West Carbery now known as the parish of Drimoleague. He defeated the O'Driscolls, the original proprietors, and compelled them to migrate towards the coast.

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    Cathal or Cahill O'Donovan was the first son of _. Crom. The fortune of war proving adverse to him, he was obliged to desert the solum natale, being forced out of his territories by the Eitzgeralds, and following an example which was very prevalent at the time, he seized on a territory in West Carbery which is known at present as the parish of Drimoleague, and having defeated in battle the O'Driscolls, the original proprietors, he compelled them to migrate

    Sketches in Carbery.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    Drimoleague was taken long ago by a man who had lost his own land. Cahal O'Donovan, son of Crom, was forced out of his Limerick territories by the Fitzgeralds. Following a practice common in those times, he seized a territory in West Carbery that is now the parish of Drimoleague. The original proprietors were the O'Driscolls. He defeated them in battle and compelled them to migrate towards the coast.

16. Donogh O'Driscoll delivers Castlehaven castle to Spaniards, 1601

    Castlehaven · townland · Cork · 1601

    Donogh O'Driscoll of Castlehaven delivered up his castle to the Spaniards in 1601, prior to a naval engagement in the harbour. The O'Driscolls of Castlehaven were a distinguished branch of the family.

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    Another distinguished hranch of the family were the O'Driscolls of Castlehaven. Donogh O'Driscoll, who resided there, delivered up his castle to the Spaniards in 1601, previous to the naval engagement in the harbour. One of this family was colonel of a regiment in the army of James II., and Governor of Eingroan Castle, Kinsale, which he bravely defended against the renowned Earl of Marlborough. During the attack on the castle three barrels of

    Sketches in Carbery, . 105

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    The O'Driscolls were a distinguished branch of the family, somewhere around here in Castlehaven. In 1601 Donogh O'Driscoll, who resided there, delivered up his castle to the Spaniards, previous to a naval engagement in the harbour. One of this family later served as colonel of a regiment in the army of James II, and as Governor of Ringroan Castle, Kinsale, which he bravely defended against the Earl of Marlborough.

17. Dunashad Castle, O'Driscoll stronghold and Algerine raid

    Baltimore · town · Cork

    The ruined castle of Dunashad stands on a rocky eminence within the village and was the chief stronghold of the O'Driscolls. Its ancient halls were attacked by Algerines who carried fire and sword, after which the old proprietors departed in exile for the coast of Spain. The harbour views from the castle encompass Sherkin, Cape Clear, and numerous islands.

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    carried back immediately to those troubled and lawless days when bloodshed and strife were almost daily occurrences, and when the ancient chieftains and the English settlers decided their differences by appeals to arms. When he ascends the rocky eminence within the village, on which stand the ruined walls and battlements of the ancient castle of Dunashad, which was the chief stronghold of the O'Driscolls, and looks out upon the picturesque harbour, with Sherkin, Cape Clear, and the numerous islands fading away in the distance, what a crowd of ideas rushes on his memory when he recalls the sanguinary scenes of strife and contention which were enacted almost beneath his feet. He pictures to himself the feelings of dismay and horror that must have filled the minds of its inhabitants when the fierce and warlike Algerines carried fire and sword into its ancient halls, and fancies with what sorrowful and heavy hearts the old proprietors and chieftains of the soil must have turned their longing eyes to* take a last glance at the seats of their ancestors before their final departure, in exile, for the coasts of Spain. t-

    After the reduction of Dunboy Castle, by Sir George Carew, Lord President of Munster, in 1602, we find that during his return to Cork, several other fortresses of inferior note throughout the country were stormed and captured by his victorious army — amongst others, that of Clogan, near Baltimore. The following particulars regarding its capture are recorded in the "Paccita Hibernia," a work written by Sir George Carew himself: — "Sir Charles Wilmot took Macrocm Castle in September, 1602, and about the same time that of Clogan, near Baltimore, was summoned by Captain Flower, who had in his posses-

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 3

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Baltimore, the ruined walls and battlements of Dunashad Castle stand on a rocky eminence within the village. It was the chief stronghold of the O'Driscolls. From it the harbour opens out, with Sherkin, Cape Clear, and numerous islands fading away in the distance. The place carries back to troubled and lawless days when bloodshed and strife were almost daily occurrences, when ancient chieftains and English settlers decided their differences by appeals to arms. The fierce and warlike Algerines carried fire and sword into the ancient halls of this castle. The old proprietors and chieftains of the soil turned their longing eyes to take a last glance at the seats of their ancestors before their final departure, in exile, for the coasts of Spain. After the reduction of Dunboy Castle by Sir George Carew, Lord President of Munster, in 1602, during his return to Cork several other fortresses of inferior note throughout the country were stormed and captured by his victorious army. Among them was Clogan, near Baltimore. The particulars of its capture are recorded in the Pacata Hibernia, a work written by Sir George Carew himself. Sir Charles Wilmot took Macrocm Castle in September 1602, and about the same time Clogan, near Baltimore, was summoned by Captain Flower.

18. Greek barque's perilous passage through Sherkin Eastern Sound

    near Sherkin Island · townland · Cork · 1874

    During a near-hurricane gale on 11 February 1874, a Greek barque driven by stress of weather dashed at headlong speed through the narrow and dangerous Eastern Sound between Sherkin and Cape Clear, narrowly escaping destruction and reaching the anchorage of Whitehall Sound safely.

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    Sherkin and Cape Clear are divided by a strait about two miles wide. A short distance from the southern extremity of Sherkin a rocky islet projects above the water, styled Carrigmore ; between both is the Eastern Sound, in which there are eighteen fathoms of water. Ships seldom venture to steer through the channel owing to the difficulty, especially with a south-east wind, of weathering in safety Sleamore Point; however during the terrible gale, amounting almost to a hurricane, which occurred on the 11th Eebruary, 1874, a Greek -barque, driven near the shore by stress of weather, dashed at headlong speed through this narrow and dangerous passage, and, ■ after a hair-breadth escape from total destruction, reached the friendly anchorage of Whitehall Sound in safety.

    Sketches in Carboy. 61

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Sherkin and Cape Clear are divided by a strait about two miles wide. A rocky islet called Carrigmore projects above the water near Sherkin's southern end, and between them lies the Eastern Sound, with eighteen fathoms of water. Ships seldom steer through that channel. The difficulty of weathering Sleamore Point in safety, especially with a south-east wind, keeps most vessels away. But on the 11th of February 1874, during a terrible gale that amounted almost to a hurricane, a Greek barque driven near the shore by stress of weather dashed at headlong speed through this narrow and dangerous passage. After a hair-breadth escape from total destruction, she reached the friendly anchorage of Whitehall Sound in safety.

19. Shooting the Rapids at Lough Hyne

    near Lough Hyne · lake or lakes · Cork

    At the narrow entrance where Lough Hyne connects to the sea, the ebb tide rushes over a shelving bottom forming a waterfall known as 'the Rapids.' Visitors shoot the rapids in a strong boat steered by an oar, at railway speed, a thrilling amusement supervised by experienced boatman Bill Barrett.

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    effect than when seen by daylight. Where the waters of the creek join those of the lake, is a narrow entrance, through which, at the ebb-tide, the waters of the lake rush at considerable speed, boiling, bounding, and bubbling, against a stony, shelving bottom, and forming a sort of waterfall, famiKarly known as " the Eapids," over which, at full tide, the water is comparatively still, being then on a level with tbat of the lake. One of the chief amusements for the visitors toLougb Hyne is the shooting of the Eapids at the ebb tide. This is accompHshed in a strong boat, steered by an oar. Having approached the mouth of the lake, the boat is suddenly whisked into the rushing tide, and makes its descent into the smoother waters of the creek at railway speed, causing the occupants much the same sensation as a novice in horse-riding experiences when going over a high jump on a spirited steed. "Woe betide the unlucky sight-seers, especially if they be of the fairer sex, should the boat come " broadside on," as sailors term it, during her trip down the Eapids, as she would be, most probably, capsized, or swamped, and all her valuable cargo left floundering in the waves. There is no fear for them, however, as long as they trust the guidance of their boat to the steady hand and keen eye of the illustrious Bill Barrett, the most trustworthy and experienced boatman along the coast.

    "We must now enter the Lough itself, and make a few remarks on that most interesting locality. If we are to believe geologists, the planet we now inhabit, before it was fitted for the abode of mankind and assumed its present condition, was subjected, on a grand and extensive scale, to subterranean convulsions and volcanic eruptions, such as we witness in a minor degree at the present time in the vol-

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Lough Hyne, a lake in west Cork. Where its waters meet the sea there is a narrow entrance, and at ebb tide the lake pours out through it, boiling and bounding over a stony shelving bottom. The rush forms a kind of waterfall, known as the Rapids. At full tide the water there sits comparatively still, level with the lake. But when the tide turns and the lake drains, that narrow gap becomes a torrent. Shooting the Rapids was one of the chief amusements for visitors to Lough Hyne. You go at the ebb, in a strong boat steered by a single oar. The boat approaches the mouth of the lake and is suddenly whisked into the rushing tide, making its descent into the smoother waters of the creek at railway speed. The sensation is much what a novice rider feels going over a high jump on a spirited horse. There is danger in it. If the boat comes broadside on, as sailors call it, during the run down the Rapids, she would most likely be capsized or swamped, and everyone aboard left floundering in the waves. Woe betide the unlucky sight-seers, especially if they be of the fairer sex, should that happen. But there is no fear for them as long as they trust the guidance to the steady hand and keen eye of Bill Barrett, the most trustworthy and experienced boatman along the coast.

20. St. Kieran of Cape Clear, first Christian saint of Ireland

    Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork · 500–550

    St. Kieran, born on Cape Clear, is traditionally regarded as the first Christian saint of Ireland. He lived an extremely ascetic life, distributing all produce from his herds and lands to the poor while sustaining himself on barley bread, raw herbs, and cold water.

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    marius (first in order of time) of the Saints of Ireland. He was also a man rich. in the possession of herds. His herd-house, or ' Bovile,' had ten gates, and ten special stalls; in each were ten heifers, &c. (This must refer to the time when he was Bishop of Saighir.) Kieran appropriated nothing of the produce or milk during his lifetime, but distributed the entire amongst the poor and distressed Christians. He also had fifty yoke-horses for the plough and agricultural purposes ; neither, however, did he partake of anything of their produce, nor did he eat wheaten bread in his entire life. His daily food, which he took only in the evening, was a mouthful of barley bread, with a dessert of raw herbs, and a draught of cold water. His garment was made of deer-skins, bound round with a girdle of untanned hide, and when he rested for a while, his couch was a rock."

    Such i^ the account we obtain regarding the

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    The road passes near Cape Clear, in Cork. This was the birthplace of St. Kieran, traditionally regarded as the first Christian saint of Ireland, in the years 500 to 550. Kieran was a man rich in the possession of herds. His herd-house had ten gates and ten stalls, with ten heifers in each. He appropriated nothing of the produce or milk during his lifetime, but distributed the entire amount amongst the poor and distressed Christians. He also had fifty yoke-horses for the plough and for agriculture. He never partook of anything from their produce, and he never ate wheaten bread in his entire life. His daily food, taken only in the evening, was a mouthful of barley bread, with raw herbs, and a draught of cold water. His garment was made of deer-skins, bound round with a girdle of untanned hide. When he rested for a while, his couch was a rock.

21. St. Kieran's church at Rathkieran, Kilkenny

    Rathkieran · townland · Kilkenny · 500–600

    St. Kieran is the patron of Rathkieran in Kilkenny, where he probably built his church near a pagan rath, which took his name. The place name preserves the association with the early Christian saint.

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    " There were many saints named Ciaran or Kieran, but two of them were distinguished beyond the others, St. Ciaran of Clonmacnoise, of whom I shall not speak here, and St. Ciaran of Ossory. Eegarding the exact period when the latter flourished there is much uncertainty ; but according to the most reliable accounts he became a bishop about the year 538. He was born in the island of Cape Clear ; but his father Ligneus was a native of Ossory, and of kingly descent. Ciaran was one of the numerous band of saints who attended St. Finian's school at Clonard ; and having retired to a solitary place called Saighir (Sair) in the territory of Eilein Munster, he after some time erected a-monastery there, which gradually grew, and beeair.e the nucleus of a town. He subsequently employed himself partly in the care of his monastery and partly in preaching the gospel to the Ossorians and others, of whom he collected great numbers. According to a gloss in the " Felire of Aengus" at the 5th of March (Ciaran's festival day), Saighir was the name of a fountain; after the saint's time it was called Saighir-Ciaran, which is now contracted to Seirkieran, the name of a parish near Parsonstown ; Ciaran is also the patron of Rathkieran in Kilkenny, where he probably built his church near a pagan rath, which took his name. On the island of Cape Clear traditions of St. "Ciaran still flit among the peasantry. An ancient little church retains the name of Kilkieran, and a strand in one part of the island is called Trakieran (Ciaran's strand) on which stands a primitive stone cross, said to have been made by the saint's own hands. St. Ciaran established a nunnery near Seirkieran for his mother Liadhan (Leean) or Liedaniu ; and from her the place has since borne the name of Rillyon (Liedhan's church). It is highly probable that it is from her also that the pariih of Ballyon in Meath, and the townland of Killyon in the parish of Dunflerth, KUdare, received their names."

    Opposite Tra-Kieran, on the south side of the.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Rathkieran, St. Kieran is remembered as the patron of this place, where he probably built his church near a pagan rath, which took his name. There were many saints called Ciaran or Kieran, but two stood above the rest. One was Ciaran of Clonmacnoise. The other was Ciaran of Ossory, and it is he who is connected to this ground. The exact period when he flourished is uncertain, but the most reliable accounts say he became a bishop about the year 538. He was born on the island of Cape Clear, though his father Ligneus was a native of Ossory and of kingly descent. Ciaran was one of the many saints who attended St. Finian's school at Clonard. He retired to a solitary place called Saighir in the territory of Eile in Munster, and after some time erected a monastery there, which grew and became the nucleus of a town. He spent himself partly in the care of that monastery and partly in preaching to the Ossorians and others, gathering great numbers of them. His festival falls on the 5th of March. A gloss in the Felire of Aengus says Saighir was the name of a fountain, and after the saint's time it was called Saighir-Ciaran, now contracted to Seirkieran. He also established a nunnery near Seirkieran for his mother Liadhan, and the place has borne her name since. But it is here at Rathkieran that his name holds the ground.

22. Thunderstorm of 830 AD splits Long Island into three parts

    near Long Island · townland · Cork · 830

    In late March 830 AD, during the reign of Hugh Domdighe, terrible thunder and lightning destroyed over 1,000 persons between Corca Bascoine and the seaside. The sea broke through banks and split Innisfadda (Long Island) into three parts, contiguous with Horse Island and Castle Island.

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    Smith, in his " History of Cork," when describing the remarkable events which have occurred from time to time, gives us the following strange account connected with these three islands : — " In the latter end of March, A. D. 830, Hugh Domdighe, being monarch of Ireland, there happened such terrible shocks of thunder and lightning, that above 1,000 persons were destroyed by it between Corca Bascoine (a part of this country then so called) and the sea-side. At the same time the sea broke through the bank? in a most violent manner, and overflowed a considerable tract of land. The island, then called Innisfadda (Long Island), on the west coast of this county (Keating p. 52, also an old Irish MS.), was forced asunder, and divided into three parts. This island lies contiguous to two others — namely, Horse Island and Castle Island, which, lying in a range and being low ground, might have been very probably then" rent by the ocean."

    Suchjstrange natural phenomena, as the separation of portions of the mainland, which then become islands, by the action of the waves, and the gradual or sudden elevation and depression of the bed of the sea, by the agency of subterranean causes, are recorded in most works on physical geography. According to tradition, the present channel between the Isle of Wight and Portsmouth, where line of battle ships can at present pass in safety, was in remote times so shallow as to allow of being safely forded at low tide. The Scilly islands, off Cornwall,

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in the latter end of March 830, a storm struck that people were still talking about centuries later. Hugh Domdighe was monarch of Ireland then. Smith, in his History of Cork, drew on Keating and an old Irish manuscript for the account. There were such terrible shocks of thunder and lightning that above 1,000 persons were destroyed between Corca Bascoine, a part of the country then so called, and the sea-side. At the same time the sea broke through the banks in a most violent manner and overflowed a considerable tract of land. The island then called Innisfadda, the Long Island, on the west coast of this county, was forced asunder and divided into three parts. It lies contiguous to two others, namely Horse Island and Castle Island, which, lying in a range and being low ground, might have been very probably then rent by the ocean. Such strange natural phenomena, the separation of portions of the mainland which then become islands by the action of the waves, and the gradual or sudden elevation and depression of the bed of the sea by subterranean causes, are recorded in most works on physical geography.

23. Baltimore and Cape Clear as O'Driscoll stronghold

    Baltimore · town · Cork

    Baltimore and Cape Clear were originally the stronghold of the O'Driscoll family, with the principal chieftain O'Driscoll More residing in Baltimore. They were regarded as the aboriginal race residing along the sea-coast of Carbery, maintaining close communication with Spain down to the 17th century.

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    The natives of Cape Clear are distinct in a great measure from the inhabitants of the mainland ; they have remained from time immemorial as a separate colony, always intermarrying amongst themselves; so that we must regard them as amongst the most typical specimens at the present day of the old Milesian race. The name of nearly all the islanders is O'Driscollor Cadogan, the latter being only a sobriquet for the former. Baltimore and Cape were originally the stronghold of this family, the principal chieftain, O'Driscoll More, residing in Baltimore. There can be no doubt but that they were the aboriginal race residing along the sea-coast of Carbery. The isolated position of the island, and its difficulty of approach, have kept the population in a comparatively antique

    y

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Baltimore, you are in what was once the stronghold of the O'Driscoll family. The principal chieftain, O'Driscoll More, lived here in Baltimore itself. They were the aboriginal race along the sea-coast of Carbery, and nearby Cape Clear was their other great seat. The people of Cape Clear kept to themselves from time immemorial, always intermarrying, so that nearly all the islanders bore the name O'Driscoll or Cadogan, the latter being only a nickname for the former. The island's isolation and difficulty of approach kept its population in a comparatively antique state, regarded as among the most typical specimens of the old Milesian race.

24. Fortification and guns on Sherkin Island

    near Sherkin Island · townland · Cork

    A regular fortification was erected on Sherkin Island and garrisoned in Queen Anne's time, with nearby barracks that have nearly disappeared. At low water, one or two guns from the former fortress can be observed lying underwater near the beach.

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    Sherkix Castle was surrendered to Captain Harvey on the 23rd February, 1601, by O'Driscoll. The latter bad only just defeated the Spaniards, who refused to restore the castle to him after the battle of Kinsale. A commission was granted to Captain Harvey by the Lord Deputy Mountjoy for the government of Carbery. Smith informs us that the barony of Carbery gave title to the family of Vaughan, one of whom was made Earl of Carbery by King Charles I. The last earl died in 1712 — aged 74. The earldom then became extinct, there being no male heirs, and his daughter and sole heiress, the Lady Anne Vaughan, was married to the Duke of Bolton. The first baron holding the present title was created Baron of Carbery, May 9th, 1715, on the visit of George I. The Algerines, who sacked Baltimore on the 20th June, 1631, did not interfere with Sherkin or its inhabitants ; most probably they, were in too great a hurry to escape with their illgotten booty. A regular fortification was erected on Shorkin, which was garrisoned in Queen Anne's time; near it were barracks, nearly all traces of

    Sketches in Car ben/. 47

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Sherkin Island, a regular fortification was erected and garrisoned in Queen Anne's time. Near it were barracks, of which nearly all traces have disappeared. At low water, one or two guns from the former fortress can be observed lying underwater near the beach. The island had seen trouble before. Sherkin Castle was surrendered to Captain Harvey on the 23rd of February, 1601, by O'Driscoll, who had only just defeated the Spaniards, who refused to restore the castle to him after the battle of Kinsale. A commission was granted to Captain Harvey by the Lord Deputy Mountjoy for the government of Carbery. The barony of Carbery gave title to the family of Vaughan, one of whom was made Earl of Carbery by King Charles I. The last earl died in 1712, aged 74. The earldom became extinct, there being no male heirs, and his daughter and sole heiress, Lady Anne Vaughan, was married to the Duke of Bolton. The Algerines, who sacked Baltimore on the 20th of June, 1631, did not interfere with Sherkin or its inhabitants, most probably because they were in too great a hurry to escape with their ill-gotten booty.

25. Kilkieran church and Trakieran strand on Cape Clear

    Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork · 500–600

    On Cape Clear, an ancient little church retains the name Kilkieran, and a strand called Trakieran (Ciaran's strand) bears a primitive stone cross said to have been made by St. Kieran's own hands. Traditions of St. Ciaran still persist among the island's peasantry.

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    " There were many saints named Ciaran or Kieran, but two of them were distinguished beyond the others, St. Ciaran of Clonmacnoise, of whom I shall not speak here, and St. Ciaran of Ossory. Eegarding the exact period when the latter flourished there is much uncertainty ; but according to the most reliable accounts he became a bishop about the year 538. He was born in the island of Cape Clear ; but his father Ligneus was a native of Ossory, and of kingly descent. Ciaran was one of the numerous band of saints who attended St. Finian's school at Clonard ; and having retired to a solitary place called Saighir (Sair) in the territory of Eilein Munster, he after some time erected a-monastery there, which gradually grew, and beeair.e the nucleus of a town. He subsequently employed himself partly in the care of his monastery and partly in preaching the gospel to the Ossorians and others, of whom he collected great numbers. According to a gloss in the " Felire of Aengus" at the 5th of March (Ciaran's festival day), Saighir was the name of a fountain; after the saint's time it was called Saighir-Ciaran, which is now contracted to Seirkieran, the name of a parish near Parsonstown ; Ciaran is also the patron of Rathkieran in Kilkenny, where he probably built his church near a pagan rath, which took his name. On the island of Cape Clear traditions of St. "Ciaran still flit among the peasantry. An ancient little church retains the name of Kilkieran, and a strand in one part of the island is called Trakieran (Ciaran's strand) on which stands a primitive stone cross, said to have been made by the saint's own hands. St. Ciaran established a nunnery near Seirkieran for his mother Liadhan (Leean) or Liedaniu ; and from her the place has since borne the name of Rillyon (Liedhan's church). It is highly probable that it is from her also that the pariih of Ballyon in Meath, and the townland of Killyon in the parish of Dunflerth, KUdare, received their names."

    Opposite Tra-Kieran, on the south side of the.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Cape Clear is the ground you are passing through, an island where the name of St. Ciaran still clings to stone and shore. There were many saints called Ciaran, but the one remembered here is St. Ciaran of Ossory. He was born on this island, though his father Ligneus came from Ossory and was of kingly descent. The most reliable accounts say he became a bishop about the year 538. He was one of the many saints who attended St. Finian's school at Clonard. After that he went to a solitary place called Saighir in the territory of Eile in Munster, and there he built a monastery that gradually grew into a town. He spent his time partly tending that monastery and partly preaching to the Ossorians and others, gathering great numbers of followers. A gloss in the Felire of Aengus, at the 5th of March, which is Ciaran's festival day, says Saighir was the name of a fountain. After the saint's time it was called Saighir-Ciaran, now contracted to Seirkieran, the name of a parish near Parsonstown. He is also the patron of Rathkieran in Kilkenny. But on Cape Clear the traditions of St. Ciaran still persist among the peasantry. An ancient little church retains the name of Kilkieran. A strand in one part of the island is called Trakieran, meaning Ciaran's strand, and on it stands a primitive stone cross said to have been made by the saint's own hands. He also established a nunnery near Seirkieran for his mother Liadhan, or Liedan, and from her the place has since borne the name of Rillyon, her church.

26. Cape Clear sheep: peculiar horned variety

    Clear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    The sheep on Cape Clear Island were formerly a peculiar variety, small in size with long, depending, twisted horns and very fine wool attributed to the nature of the pasturage near the sea. The flesh was noted as very delicate in flavour.

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    The sheep on Cape were formerly a peculiar variety, small in size, the flesh very delicate in flavour ; they had long, depending, twisted horns ; the wool was exceedingly fine, a fact attributed to the nature of the pasturage near the sea. The houses, or rather cabins, have the straw thatching, which is roughly laid on, eovered with an interwoven network of straw ropes (soogauns), tightly drawn across. To the free ends which hang over the eaves, either large stones are attached, or they are twisted securely around bolts, firmly imbedded in the walls. This contrivance is absolutely necessary to prevent the roofs being blown away by the fierce gales which prevail during the winter months.

    As the soil, except on the north side of the island, is poor, shallow, and unproductive, covered with heath and furze and stone walls in abundance, the hardy natives, in order to procure a livelihood, must depend in a great measure on the prosperity of the fisheries and the success of their pilotage. They cannot now, as in the good old times, supplement their ordinary mode of subsistence by a little smuggling on the sly, the landing of an occasional contraband cargo, and the appropriation of the stray waifs of the ocean, the Flotsam and Jetsam of the

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono

    As the companion tells it

    Clear Island lies off the coast of Cork, and the sheep that once lived here were a breed of their own. They were small in size, with long twisted horns that hung down, and their wool was exceedingly fine. People attributed that fineness to the nature of the pasturage near the sea. The flesh was very delicate in flavour. The cabins on the island had straw thatching laid on roughly, and over it a network of straw ropes, called soogauns, tightly drawn across. The free ends that hung over the eaves either had large stones attached or were twisted around bolts set firmly in the walls. This was necessary to stop the roofs being blown away by the fierce gales of the winter months. The soil, except on the north side of the island, was poor, shallow, and unproductive, covered with heath and furze and stone walls in abundance. The hardy natives had to depend in great measure on the prosperity of the fisheries and the success of their pilotage to earn a livelihood. They could not now, as in the good old times, supplement their ordinary subsistence by a little smuggling on the sly, the landing of an occasional contraband cargo, and the appropriation of the stray waifs of the ocean, the flotsam and jetsam.

27. Leap village, anciently Ceann Mara, and O'Donovan's leap legend

    Leap · town · Cork

    The little village of Leap at the extreme end of Glandore Harbour was anciently called Ceann Mara, meaning Head of the Sea. The name 'Leap' derived from a person named O'Donovan who accomplished a wonderful jump across the deep ravine near the village.

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    O'Donovan, in "The Genealogy of Corca Laidhe " makes the following annotation : " Ceann Mara (Head of the Sea) : this was. the ancient name of the head of Cuan Dor, or Glandore Harbour, at O'Donovan's Leap." The latter appellation it derived from a person of that name having formerly accomplished a wonderful jump across the deep ravine near the little village.

    This place formed part of the route through which Sir George Carew's army marched on their way to the siege of Dunboy, as we learn from the " Pacata Hibernia" that, after leaving Eosscarbery on the 25th April, 1602, Carew passed over The Leap, thence to Castlehaven and Baltimore, and so on. Before the present main road was laid down across Leap the passage over the ravine must have been difficult and dangerous. Smith says : —

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    You're coming through Leap, a little village at the far end of Glandore Harbour. Its old name was Ceann Mara, Head of the Sea. The name Leap comes from a man called O'Donovan, who once made a remarkable jump across the deep ravine near the village. Before the modern road was laid down, crossing that ravine was difficult and dangerous. Sir George Carew's army came this way on the 25th of April 1602, marching from Rosscarbery on their way to the siege of Dunboy, passing over the Leap and on to Castlehaven and Baltimore.

28. Pilgrimage and amulet tradition at Toumpleen-a-Fachtna

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork

    On August 16th, the patron day of St. Fachtna, great numbers of pilgrims visited the oratory and removed small portions of earth from its vicinity. This earth was believed to possess the virtue, when stitched into clothing, of saving a shipwrecked person from drowning.

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    The following legend is related of the saint:— " He was in the habit of praying daily on the side of a hill, about half-a-mile east of Ross. One evening he forgot his prayer-book, and the next morning, strange to say (the night had been rainy), a small chapel had sprung into existence immediately over the spot where the saint had prayed the day before. However that may be, the ruins of this little oratory, Toumpleen-a-Fachtna, are still extant. Its" proportions are on a limited scale, being only twelve feet long by eight feet broad. O'Donovan says that it is the only building of St. Fachtna's time now remaining. He differs in opinion also -from Harris and others, who assert that the old cathedral was erected by St. Fachtnan, and not by Mac Craith, in the tenth century, as O'Donovan states, quoting from the "BookofBallymote." Toumpleen-a-Fachtna was rebuilt about the year 1664 by a devotee who, in a fit of sickness, had made a vow to the saint that if he recovered he would build a chapel in his honour. There is a rough corner-stone in one of the walls commemorating this event as follows — "Ad gloriamDci, et hominum sahationem,,\ Sfc. — not easily deciphered. • In former times, on the 16th August, the patron day of the saint, great numbers of pilgrims frequented this spot, and removed a small portion of earth from the immediate neighbourhood of the oratory, which, . as a sort of amulet, was supposed by some to possess "

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    Near the town of Ross Carbery in Cork stands the ruin of a small oratory called Toumpleen-a-Fachtna. The story goes that Saint Fachtna prayed daily on the side of a hill east of Ross. One evening he forgot his prayer-book, and the next morning, after a rainy night, a small chapel had sprung into existence over the spot where he had prayed. The oratory is modest, only 12 feet long by 8 feet broad. O'Donovan says it is the only building of Saint Fachtna's time now remaining. He disagrees with Harris and others, who claimed the old cathedral was erected by Saint Fachtna. O'Donovan says it was built by Mac Craith in the 10th century, quoting from the Book of Ballymote. The oratory was rebuilt around 1664 by a devotee who, during a sickness, vowed to the saint that if he recovered he would build a chapel in his honour. A rough corner-stone in one wall commemorates this with a Latin inscription not easily deciphered. In former times, on August 16, the patron day of the saint, great numbers of pilgrims frequented this spot. They removed a small portion of earth from near the oratory. This earth, as a sort of amulet, was supposed to possess the virtue that when stitched into clothing it could save a shipwrecked person from drowning.

29. Skibbereen as vortex of the Famine

    Skibbereen · town · Cork · 1845–1847

    Skibbereen and the surrounding country are identified as the area where the vortex of the famine storm prevailed, suffering extreme want and devastation during 1847. O'Rourke's history devoted a large portion to documenting these sufferings.

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    A large portion of the work is devoted to an account of the sufferings from want in Skibbereen and the surrounding country, more especially as it was in our own neighbourhood the vortex of the storm prevailed that swept over the land, which it wrapped in the shadow of death, leaving more wrecks of humanity in its wake than the typhoons of China or the hurricanes of the West Indies. The " History of the Famine of 1847," by the Eev. J. O'Eourke, is a work which is well worthy of perusal, and the writer has condensed his extensive information, and arranged all his sentences and paragraphs in so complete, intelligible, and interesting a manner that the most inattentive reader cannot fail to be convinced of the ability, erudition, and patient research of the writer, who seems to have adopted the following motto throughout — "Nothing shall I extenuate, nor set down aught in malice." The earlier portions of the volume are devoted to a brief history of previous famines in Ireland, and an account of the ravages of the ^potato blight of 1845. Allusion is made to the plan proposed by the great O'Connell for dealing with the impending famine, which plan was, in reality — had it been adopted — the only farseeing, wise, precautionary, and statesmanlike measure which could have warded off famine and death from thousands of the people.

    The Liberator's proposal, brought forward on the

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    As the road comes near Skibbereen in Cork, you are approaching the place where the vortex of the famine storm prevailed. A large portion of one history is devoted to the sufferings from want in Skibbereen and the surrounding country. The writer calls this neighbourhood the vortex of the storm that swept over the land, wrapping it in the shadow of death, leaving more wrecks of humanity in its wake than the typhoons of China or the hurricanes of the West Indies. The History of the Famine of 1847 by Reverend J. O'Rourke is said to be well worthy of perusal. The writer condensed his extensive information, arranging his sentences and paragraphs in so complete and intelligible a manner that the most inattentive reader cannot fail to be convinced of his ability, erudition, and patient research. He seems to have adopted the motto: "Nothing shall I extenuate, nor set down aught in malice." The earlier portions of the volume give a brief history of previous famines in Ireland and an account of the ravages of the potato blight of 1845. Allusion is made to the plan proposed by the great O'Connell for dealing with the impending famine. That plan, had it been adopted, was the only far-seeing, wise, precautionary, and statesmanlike measure which could have warded off famine and death from thousands of the people.

30. St. Kieran's episcopal throne in St. Canice's Church, Kilkenny

    Kilkenny · city · Kilkenny

    The episcopal throne or chair of St. Kieran is still preserved in the ancient church of St. Canice in Kilkenny. Made of stone with graceful proportions, it stands in the north transept of the church.

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    ing the people of Cape Clear and Corca Laidhe (Carbery), proceededto Ossory, where he founded a bishop's see at Saigher, called after him Serkieran a townland in the parish of same name in the barony of- Bally britain, King's County. The ruins of an ancient church point out where he settled. The episcopal throne, or chair, of St. Kieran, is still preserved in the beautiful and ancient church of St. Canice, Kilkenny ; it is made of stone, of graceful proportions, and stands in the north transept. As additional evidence and authority, besides Ussher and the " Annals of Innisfallen," we find the following remarks by "Wright : — "This patriarch (St.-Ciaran) is believed to have preceded St. Patrick by thirty years in his holy mission, and to have been the first to preach Christianity in Ireland." Wills also mentions the following : — " At the coming of St. Patrick, four Cbristian preachers are mentioned by old Irish testimonies to have been before him and still living in his time — these were Ailbe, afterwards first bishop of Emly; Declan of Ardmore; Kieran of Saigre (by successive translation removed to Kilkenny) ; and Ibar of Beg Iri, a small island off the Wexford coast."

    Of all these St. Kieran was the most prominent and distinguished, and the truth of his claims to antecedence can hardly be disputed when written history and tradition proclaim the fact so unmistakably. It is a subject of much interest, especially, when we reflect that, if this be so, the pillar-stone at Cape Clear is at present the oldest Christian relic of the past to be seen in Great Britain and Ireland, and that the island of Cape Clear and ancient Carbery were the first bright spots in the pagan wilderness where the lights of Christianity shone under the guidance of St. Kieran, thirty years

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Kilkenny holds something rare from the earliest days of Christianity in Ireland. In the ancient church of St. Canice, the episcopal throne of St. Kieran is still preserved. It is made of stone, of graceful proportions, and stands in the north transept. St. Kieran came from the people of Cape Clear and Corca Laidhe in Carbery, and he proceeded to Ossory, where he founded a bishop's see at Saigher. The place was called after him, Serkieran, a townland in the parish of the same name in the barony of Ballybritain, King's County. The ruins of an ancient church point out where he settled. Wright wrote of him, "This patriarch, St. Ciaran, is believed to have preceded St. Patrick by thirty years in his holy mission, and to have been the first to preach Christianity in Ireland." Wills noted that at the coming of St. Patrick, four Christian preachers were said to have been before him and still living in his time. These were Ailbe, afterwards first bishop of Emly; Declan of Ardmore; Kieran of Saigre, by successive translation removed to Kilkenny; and Ibar of Beg Iri, a small island off the Wexford coast. Of all these, St. Kieran was the most prominent and distinguished. His claims to antecedence can hardly be disputed when written history and tradition proclaim the fact so unmistakably. The authorities cited include Ussher and the Annals of Innisfallen. If his mission did precede St. Patrick's by thirty years, then the pillar-stone at Cape Clear is the oldest Christian relic to be seen in Great Britain and Ireland, and Cape Clear and ancient Carbery were the first bright spots in the pagan wilderness where the lights of Christianity shone under his guidance.

31. Thomas, 8th Earl of Desmond, executed at Drogheda

    Drogheda · town · Louth · 1466

    Thomas, 8th Earl of Desmond, one of the most powerful of his race and viceroy of Ireland under Edward IV, was executed at Drogheda in 1466 after falling victim to the malice of Edward's Queen, Lady Jane Grey, for some disrespectful speech he made about her to the king.

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    This castle, according «to Smith, was built by the 0 'Donovans,, whilst other authorities assert that it was erected by Catherine, daughter of Thomas, 8th Earl of Desmond. This would give us for the date of its building about the year 1470, or thereabouts. Thomas, 8th Earl of Desmond, one of the most powerful of his race, and who was viceroy of Ireland in the time of Edward IY., was executed at Drogheda i

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    As the companion tells it

    Coming up on Drogheda now. In 1466 this town saw the execution of Thomas, the 8th Earl of Desmond, one of the most powerful of his race and viceroy of Ireland under Edward IV. He fell victim to the malice of Edward's Queen, Lady Jane Grey, after he made some disrespectful speech about her to the king.

32. Annual regattas at Glandore village

    near Glandore · population centre · Cork

    In former years, annual regattas were held at Glandore with yachts coming from Queenstown to compete for prizes, and peasant crews from the surrounding country displaying their prowess as oarsmen. The event concluded with a ball at the Castle.

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    In former years, not long past either, regattas were annual occurrences in Glandore, and all the arrangements connected with them were perfect and on a most advanced scale. Yachts came round from Queenstown to compete for prizes, and crews of stalwart peasants from the surrounding country displayed their prowess as oarsmen in friendly rivalryi The entire performance wound up with a ball at the Castle. On these occasions the village and the ad^ jacent positions of advantage for sightseers were thronged with a gay and cheerful crowd, in holiday costume, enjoying the amusements of the day, and no more charming tout ensemble could be observed

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    As you come through Glandore in Cork, the village recalls its annual regattas from former years, run on a most advanced scale. Yachts came round from Queenstown to compete for prizes, while stalwart peasant crews from the surrounding country showed their prowess as oarsmen in friendly rivalry. The whole performance wound up with a ball at the Castle. Every vantage point was thronged with a cheerful crowd in holiday costume, and, in the words of one observer, "no more charming tout ensemble could be observed."

33. Cape Clear Island: size, townlands, and population decline

    Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork · 1831–1848

    Cape Clear runs about three miles east-west and a mile and a half at its widest, comprising 17 townlands and 1400 acres. Its population was about 2,000 a century ago and again in 1831, but has markedly decreased since the famine years.

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    of the island, -which is exposed to the Atlantic gales, the cliffs attain their highest altitude, and the surface here is rocky and unproductive. Previous to the year 1848 the island was divided into 137 small farms of five acres each. The population was formerly large, but has sensibly decreased, as is evident from the fact, that a century ago, according to Smith, there were up to 2,000 inhabitants. The census of 1831, according to Lewis, showed about the same number. Living exclusively to themselves, and having little intercourse with the mainland, it seems strange, however, that the population should not have increased to such an extent as to necessitate emigration from the island, especially the climate being so healthy. We must leave the explanation of this fact to ethnologists and political economists.

    Since the famine years a marked decrease in the population has occurred. The north side of the island, which looks inland, slopes somewhat gradually towards the sea. As we ramble along, observing the various points of interest, we obtain some fine views of the adjoining coast. The hundred isles of Carbery are seen, the entire cluster dotting the surface of Koaring Water Bay (Lough Trasnagh), a very turbulent expanse of water, too, during the prevalence of a south-east or southerly gale. The names of the islands are familiar to our readers, such as the Skeames, (St. Keani's), Hare Island, (Inish O'Driscoll), the Three Calves, so called on the lucus a nonlueendo principle, because they raise no cattle there, whilst there are no hares on Hare Island. M'Carthy 's Island, in the distance, celebrated for a peculiar growth of grass, which, owing to some special virtue in the soil, and the enriching powers of the salt water sprav, is said to be almost capable of curing and fattening

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 6

    As the companion tells it

    Cape Clear lies out in the Atlantic near the coast you are passing. It runs about three miles east to west and a mile and a half at its widest, holding 17 townlands across 1,400 acres. Before 1848, the island was divided into 137 small farms of five acres each. A century before, according to Smith, there were up to 2,000 inhabitants. The census of 1831, according to Lewis, showed about the same number again. The people lived mostly to themselves, with little intercourse with the mainland, and the climate was healthy. The writer found it strange that the population had not grown enough to force emigration from the island, and left the explanation to ethnologists and political economists. Since the famine years, a marked decrease has occurred. The north side of the island slopes gradually toward the sea. From there, the hundred isles of Carbery can be seen dotting Roaring Water Bay, also called Lough Trasnagh, a turbulent expanse during a south-east or southerly gale. Among them are the Skeames, or St. Keani's, and Hare Island, called Inish O'Driscoll, where there are no hares. The Three Calves raise no cattle there. M'Carthy's Island, in the distance, is celebrated for a peculiar growth of grass, said through some virtue in the soil and the enriching powers of the salt water spray to be almost capable of fattening cattle.

34. Dr. Donovan's medical investigation of Harrington's Lights

    near Glandore · population centre · Cork · 1828–1839

    Dr. Donovan, senior, medical attendant in Skibbereen, was called in December 1828 to attend Harrington, a phthisical patient whose cabin on Glandore harbour exhibited mysterious lights. Over fourteen nights of observation he saw faint luminous fog and scintillations, and ultimately attributed the phenomenon to phosphorescent matter in the dying man's expiratory and perspiratory secretions.

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    " I was sent for in December, 1828, to see the subject of this sketch. He had been under the care of my predecessor, and had been entered in the dispensary book as a phthisical patient. , , . . . He was under my care for about five years, during which time, strange to say, his symptoms continued stationary, and I had discontinued my attendance for about two years, when the report became general that mysterious lights were seen in his cabin.

    " The subject attracted a great deal of attention, some attn

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass near Glandore, you're around the harbour where a strange case played out. In December 1828, Dr. Donovan, the medical attendant in Skibbereen, was called to attend Harrington, a phthisical patient whose cabin stood here on the harbour. After about five years of care the symptoms stayed stationary and Donovan stopped visiting. Then reports spread of mysterious lights in the cabin. Over fourteen nights he watched faint luminous fog and scintillations, and concluded the glow came from phosphorescent matter in the dying man's breath and sweat.

35. Linen weaving colony at Rosscarbery

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 1811

    About sixty-five years before the book's publication, Rosscarbery was the busy centre of a colony of linen weavers with a considerable trade. After the decline of linen manufactures, the prosperity of the town went into decline.

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    Ross, like many other ancient towns in Ireland, gradually diminished in size, and declined in prosperity, not keeping pace with the times, owing to the constantly disturbed state of the country, which interfered with the proper development of industrial resources. About sixty-five years ago it was the busy centre of a colony of linen weavers, and a considerable trade flourished in that line. After the decline of the linen manufactures, the prosperity of the town was also on the wane. Latterly, however, there has been some advance in improvement.

    It is an often told and trite but true saying that "Fact is stranger than fiction." The following story, founded not only on tradition but also on

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Ross Carbery was once a busier place than you find it now. About 1811 it was the centre of a colony of linen weavers, and a considerable trade flourished here. The town had industry, and the people who worked it. Then the linen manufactures declined, and the prosperity of the town went with them. Ross, like many ancient towns in Ireland, gradually diminished in size. The disturbed state of the country interfered with the proper development of its industrial resources, and the town did not keep pace with the times. Latterly, there has been some advance in improvement.

36. Lis an Earla (Earl's Fort) at Ballinlough

    Ballinlough · townland · Cork

    On the north side of Ballinlough, near the road on a steep hill, stands a fine lis popularly called a Danish fort, known as Lis an Earla (the Earl's Fort). Within the inner rampart are numerous pits leading to subterranean passages, one said to lead down to the lake.

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    Ballinlough Lake was formerly celebrated for its large red trout. It was also called Aghill Lough, aghill being a species of freshwater eel which abounded in the lake. It is a curious fact that shell-fish are found in its waters, especially wrinkles, exactly similar to those which exist on the sea-beach. On the north side of Ballinlough, near the road, on the summit of a steep hill, we observe a very fine lis, popularly called a Danish fort, styled Lis an Earla (the Earl's Fort). In the enclosure within the inner rampart are numerous pits leading to subterranean passages, most of which are nearly closed up at present by the sinking in of the soil. One of these passages is said to have led down to the lake.

    Mrs. and Mr. Hall, in their work on Ireland, refer to a strange legend connected with this old lis — the tradition being that the subterranean passage imagined to connect it with the lake was carefully guarded by the fairies both day and night. It was also believed to lead to some bright and happy elysium beneath the waters of the lake called Tirna-noge (the land of youth), whose inhabitants never suffered from the infirmities of old age, but always basked in the sunlight of perennial youth.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Ballinlough there is a fine lis, popularly called a Danish fort, known as Lis an Earla, the Earl's Fort. It stands on the summit of a steep hill on the north side, near the road. Within the enclosure, inside the inner rampart, there are numerous pits leading to subterranean passages. Most of these are nearly closed up now, by the sinking in of the soil. One of the passages is said to have led down to the lake. Ballinlough Lake itself was once celebrated for its large red trout. It was also called Aghill Lough, after a species of freshwater eel that abounded there. A curious fact about its waters is that shell-fish are found in them, especially wrinkles, exactly similar to those on the sea-beach. There is a strange legend connected with this old lis. The tradition is that the subterranean passage thought to connect it with the lake was carefully guarded by the fairies, both day and night. It was also believed to lead to some bright and happy elysium beneath the waters of the lake, called Tir-na-noge, the land of youth. Its inhabitants never suffered from the infirmities of old age, but always basked in the sunlight of perennial youth.

37. March 5th pilgrimage to St. Kieran's pillar-stone, Cape Clear

    Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork

    The 5th of March, the anniversary of St. Kieran's birth, is observed as a holiday on Cape Clear from time immemorial. An incredible number of pilgrims assemble round the pillar-stone on that day to celebrate his festival, and the saint's name is commonly adopted as a Christian name among islanders.

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    Smith, who visited Cape about a century ago, has made the following allusion in the "History of Cork" to Cape Clear, and also to St. Kieran : — " Cape Clear island is the most southern part of Ireland, and contains twelve ploughlands; on the north-west point stands a castle, built on a rock in the sea, called Dunanore, to the east of which is the cove of Tra-Kieran, or St. Kieran's Strand, where we find a pillar of stone, with a cross rudely cut towards the top, supposed to have been the work of that saint ; this stone is held in great veneration by an incredible number of pilgrims, who assemble round it every 5th March, on which day his festival is celebrated; a church in ruins under the invocation of St. Kieran adjoins this pillar."

    In the year 402, St. Kieran, after convert-

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Cape Clear is the most southern part of Ireland. On the north-west point stands a castle called Dunanore, built on a rock in the sea. East of it lies the cove of Tra-Kieran, or St. Kieran's Strand, where there is a pillar of stone with a cross rudely cut towards the top, supposed to have been the work of that saint. This stone is held in great veneration by an incredible number of pilgrims, who assemble round it every 5th of March, the day his festival is celebrated. A ruined church under the invocation of St. Kieran adjoins the pillar. The 5th of March marks the anniversary of his birth, and it has been observed as a holiday on Cape Clear from time immemorial. The saint's name is commonly adopted as a Christian name among the islanders.

38. O'Driscoll stronghold at Baltimore and islands

    Baltimore · town · Cork · 1601

    Before the English colony planted by Sir Thomas Crook, Baltimore and the adjacent country were a great stronghold of the O'Driscolls, who also possessed Sherkin Island and Cape Clear Island, and were styled kings of the latter place. The O'Driscolls forfeited all possessions after the 1601 insurrection when Spaniards landed at Baltimore, and most emigrated to Spain.

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    two members. An English colony had been planted here a short time previously by Sir Thomas Crook, prior to -which event the town of Baltimore and the adjacent country had been a great stronghold of the O'Driscolls, who also possessed the islands of Sherkin and Cape Clear,- of which latter place they were styled kings. The O'Driscolls forfeited all their possessions, both on the mainland and in the islands, during the insurrection of 1601, when the Spaniards landed in Baltimore. The Spaniards surrendered to Captain Harvey, who was in command of the English forces. Most of the O'Driscolls emigrated to Spain, leaving behind them their followers and dependents, who gradually became mixed up with the rest of the peasantry

    Baltimore was not destined to remain for any length of time in a state of repose. Sir "Walter Coppinger reduced the place to great distress in 1629, and took possession of the town and castle ; but the greatest calamity which had yet occurred befel this illfated locality on the 20th June, 1631, when two Algerine galleys, manned with pirates, landed in the dead of night, plundered the town, massacred the greater portion of She inhabitants, and took the remainder into a captivity almost worse than death. Of those captured (200 in number) most were English settlers. The Algerines were piloted into Baltimore by a man named Hackett, a Dungarvan fisherman, who, about two years after this occurrence, was taken prisoner, carried to Baltimore, and hung on a high cliff, facing the sea, and looking down on tbe very channel through which the miscreant had but a short time before so treacherously and cruelly conducted the galleys of the bloodthirsty and marauding pirates.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 3

    As the companion tells it

    Baltimore was once a great stronghold of the O'Driscolls, who held the town and the adjacent country, as well as the islands of Sherkin and Cape Clear, where they were styled kings. An English colony was planted here a short time before by Sir Thomas Crook. The O'Driscolls forfeited all their possessions, both on the mainland and in the islands, during the insurrection of 1601, when the Spaniards landed in Baltimore. The Spaniards surrendered to Captain Harvey, who commanded the English forces. Most of the O'Driscolls then emigrated to Spain, leaving behind their followers and dependents, who gradually became mixed up with the rest of the peasantry. Baltimore was not destined to remain long in repose. Sir Walter Coppinger reduced the place to great distress in 1629 and took possession of the town and castle. But the greatest calamity befell this ill-fated locality on the 20th of June, 1631, when two Algerine galleys manned with pirates landed in the dead of night, plundered the town, massacred the greater portion of the inhabitants, and took the remainder into a captivity almost worse than death. Of those captured, 200 in number, most were English settlers. The Algerines were piloted into Baltimore by a man named Hackett, a Dungarvan fisherman. About two years after, Hackett was taken prisoner, carried to Baltimore, and hung on a high cliff facing the sea, looking down on the very channel through which he had conducted the galleys of the pirates.

39. Spanish entrenchment at Reen Point, 1601

    Reen Point · point · Cork · 1601

    During the wars of 1601, the Spaniards intrenched themselves on the high ground at Reen Point (also called Galleon Point), commanding Castlehaven harbour, and bombarded Admiral Levison's ship when she went aground. The Spanish entrenchment resembling an ancient rath is still visible, along with graves of fallen Spaniards.

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    In ancient times, when smuggling was an everyday occurrence, the hamlet of Grlenbarrahane carried on a flourishing trade in the contraband line with the coast of Spain. In those days also (that is about a century ago) a linen manufactory was established at Killehangill. However, like many others of a similar nature throughout the country, it has fallen to decay for many years. The eastern boundary of Castlehaven harbour is formed by Eeen Point, or Galleon Point, as it is sometimes called, which forms a bluff, rocky promontory. It was here, during the wars of 1601, that the Spaniards intrenched themselves upon the high ground commanding the harbour, and from this they bombarded Admiral Levison's ship when she went aground. The Spanish intrenchment, resembling an ancient rath, is still to be seen ; and quite close to it are pointed out numerous little mounds of earth, the head-stones almost covered by the soil, where lie the remains of the Spaniards who had fallen in action or died of disease. The country people are under the impression that it is the resting-

    Sketches in Carbery,

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    During the wars of 1601, the Spaniards entrenched themselves on the high ground at Reen Point, sometimes called Galleon Point, commanding Castlehaven harbour. The point forms a bluff, rocky promontory marking the eastern boundary of the harbour. From this position the Spaniards bombarded Admiral Levison's ship when she went aground. The Spanish entrenchment, resembling an ancient rath, is still to be seen. Quite close to it are pointed out numerous little mounds of earth, the headstones almost covered by soil, where lie the remains of the Spaniards who had fallen in action or died of disease. In earlier times, when smuggling was an everyday occurrence, the hamlet of Grlenbarrahane carried on a flourishing trade in contraband with the coast of Spain. About a century ago a linen manufactory was established at Killehangill, but like many others throughout the country it has fallen to decay.

40. St. Kieran's birthplace and chapel ruins at Cape Clear

    Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork · 352

    St. Kieran, patron saint of Cape Clear, was born AD 352 near Kintracht (White-strand), afterwards called Trakieran. A chapel dedicated to his name was later erected near the sea, the ruins of which still stand, including an ancient burial-place within the aisle and choir.

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    That St. Kieran of Cape Clear must have been a man distinguished by rare perfection of mind and holiness of life, great energy of character, and deep devotion to his calling, is evident from the account, brief and meagre though itlbe, we are able to obtain from reliable sources. His birth-place was in the immediate vicinity of Kintracht (White-strand), called since that remarkable event Trakieran immediately within sight of the dwelling-house, where afterwards a chapel dedicated to his name was erected called St. Kieran's chapel. The ruins maj' still be observed, of a more modern edifice, however ; occupying the same position near the sea, and including within the aisle and choir an ancient burial-place. In the centre of Tra- Kieran, deeply imbedded in the sand, we observe a remarkable pillar-stone, said to be the work of St. Kieran's own hauds, and fixed in this locality in order to commemorate his name, and to be pointed out as a memorial of his Christian mission. The tradition regarding this circumstance has been handed down from generation to generation in an unbroken line, and is as fresh to-day in the minds of the inhabitants of Cape Clear, as when, fourteen centuries and a half ago (a long space of time), St. Kieran converted their pagan ancestors to Christianity, thus gaining far himself the title of "Primarius Hibernite Sanctorum" (first in order of time of the saints in Ireland).

    The pillar-stone referred to is a promiuent object on the strand of North Harbour ; it- is firmly fis§d

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Cape Clear in Cork is the place of St. Kieran, patron saint of this island. He was born in 352 near Kintracht, the White-strand, and after his birth the place was called Trakieran. The account of him is brief and meagre, yet it shows a man distinguished by rare perfection of mind and holiness of life, great energy of character, and deep devotion to his calling. A chapel dedicated to his name was erected near the dwelling-house, close to the sea. The ruins still to be seen are of a more modern edifice, occupying the same position, and within the aisle and choir there is an ancient burial-place. In the centre of Trakieran, deeply imbedded in the sand, stands a remarkable pillar-stone, said to be the work of St. Kieran's own hands, fixed there to commemorate his name and as a memorial of his Christian mission. The tradition has been handed down from generation to generation in an unbroken line, and is as fresh today in the minds of the inhabitants as when, fourteen centuries and a half ago, St. Kieran converted their pagan ancestors to Christianity, gaining for himself the title of, in the words of the source, "Primarius Hibernite Sanctorum," first in order of time of the saints in Ireland. The pillar-stone is a prominent object on the strand of North Harbour, firmly fixed.

41. Submarine cable from Cape Clear to Sherkin to Baltimore

    near Sherkin Island · townland · Cork · 1861–1870

    A submarine cable connected the telegraph station at Cape Clear to wires on the mainland, passing from Cape to Sherkin Island and from the Abbey Strand on Sherkin across the harbour to Baltimore, and so on to Skibbereen, Cork, Dublin, and London. The cable is now described as a broken link of the past.

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    A submarine cable connected the telegraph station with the wires on the mainland passing from Cape to Sherkin, and from the Abbey Strand on the latter island across the harbour to Baltimore and so on to Skibbereen, Cork, Dublin, and London. But nowa-days the shrill whistle of the steam pipe is no longer heard in the South Harbour — the Telegraph House is crumbling to decay, the submarine cable is a broken link of the past, and no busy official, seated at his solitary desk near the melancholy ocean in this remote little office— not much larger

    Sketches in Carbery. 107

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Sherkin Island, a submarine cable once carried telegraph messages from the station at Cape Clear to the mainland. It ran from Cape Clear to Sherkin, then from the Abbey Strand on Sherkin across the harbour to Baltimore, and so on to Skibbereen, Cork, Dublin, and London. That was between 1861 and 1870. Now the steam pipe's shrill whistle is no longer heard in the South Harbour. The Telegraph House is crumbling to decay. The submarine cable is a broken link of the past, and no busy official sits at his solitary desk near the melancholy ocean in this remote little office.

42. Toumpleen-a-Fachtna rebuilt by devotee's vow in 1664

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 1664

    Toumpleen-a-Fachtna was rebuilt about 1664 by a devotee who, during a serious illness, vowed to St. Fachtna that if he recovered he would build a chapel in his honour. A rough corner-stone in one of the walls commemorates this event with a Latin inscription.

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    The following legend is related of the saint:— " He was in the habit of praying daily on the side of a hill, about half-a-mile east of Ross. One evening he forgot his prayer-book, and the next morning, strange to say (the night had been rainy), a small chapel had sprung into existence immediately over the spot where the saint had prayed the day before. However that may be, the ruins of this little oratory, Toumpleen-a-Fachtna, are still extant. Its" proportions are on a limited scale, being only twelve feet long by eight feet broad. O'Donovan says that it is the only building of St. Fachtna's time now remaining. He differs in opinion also -from Harris and others, who assert that the old cathedral was erected by St. Fachtnan, and not by Mac Craith, in the tenth century, as O'Donovan states, quoting from the "BookofBallymote." Toumpleen-a-Fachtna was rebuilt about the year 1664 by a devotee who, in a fit of sickness, had made a vow to the saint that if he recovered he would build a chapel in his honour. There is a rough corner-stone in one of the walls commemorating this event as follows — "Ad gloriamDci, et hominum sahationem,,\ Sfc. — not easily deciphered. • In former times, on the 16th August, the patron day of the saint, great numbers of pilgrims frequented this spot, and removed a small portion of earth from the immediate neighbourhood of the oratory, which, . as a sort of amulet, was supposed by some to possess "

    Sketches in Carbcry. 221

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Ross Carbery in Cork has an old story attached to it. St. Fachtna was in the habit of praying daily on the side of a hill, about half a mile east of Ross. One evening he forgot his prayer-book. The night was rainy, and the next morning a small chapel had sprung into existence over the spot where the saint had prayed the day before. The ruins of this little oratory, Toumpleen-a-Fachtna, are still extant. Its proportions are small, only 12 feet long by 8 feet broad. O'Donovan says it is the only building of St. Fachtna's time now remaining. He differs from Harris and others, who say the old cathedral was erected by St. Fachtna, and not by Mac Craith in the 10th century, as O'Donovan states, quoting from the Book of Ballymote. Toumpleen-a-Fachtna was rebuilt about 1664 by a devotee who, in a fit of sickness, made a vow to the saint that if he recovered he would build a chapel in his honour. A rough corner-stone in one of the walls commemorates this event with a Latin inscription, not easily deciphered. In former times, on the 16th of August, the patron day of the saint, great numbers of pilgrims frequented this spot and removed a small portion of earth from the neighbourhood of the oratory, which was supposed to possess a certain power.

43. Proverb: 'Beyond the Leap, beyond the law'

    Leap · town · Cork

    West of Leap, Carbery was in an unreclaimed state whose fastnesses and bogs afforded escape and concealment to persons dreading criminal prosecution or political persecution. This gave rise to the proverb: 'Beyond the Leap, beyond the law.'

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    The small stream which runs through the ravine and into Glandore Harbour, comes from a lake called Ballinlough, situated about two miles to the north of Leap, in the parish of Kilmacabea. This diminutive stream has the honour of forming the boundary line between the Baronies of East and "West Carbery. In the olden times all that part of Carbery which lay to the west of Leap was in a very unreclaimed state, and its fastnesses and bogs afforded such facility for escape and concealment to persons dreading criminal prosecutions for acts of violence, or to persons fearing political persecution, that the following saying passed into a sort of proverb : —

    " Beyond the T.eap, beyond the law."

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming through Leap, in Cork. A small stream from Ballinlough, about two miles north, runs through a ravine into Glandore Harbour and marks the boundary between East and West Carbery. In olden times all of Carbery west of Leap was unreclaimed country, its bogs and hidden places giving cover to people fleeing criminal prosecution or political persecution. The reputation was strong enough to become a proverb: beyond the Leap, beyond the law.

44. 1600 raid on Kilcoe Castle at Aughadown

    Kilcoe · townland · Cork · 1600

    In 1600 a detachment from the Kinsale garrison under Sir Richard Percy marched into Carbery intending to attack Ross, but finding it too strongly fortified, detoured to Leap and made a sudden raid on Kilcoe (Aughadown), a MacCarthy castle west of Skibbereen, seizing 300 head of cattle.

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    In the time of Henry VIII., Eosscarbery belonged to Mac Carthy Eeagh. A. D. 1600 a detachment from the garrison at Kinsale commanded by Sir Eicbard Percy, marched into Carbery with the intention of attacking Eoss, but finding the place too strongly fortified, they made a detour to Leap, and a sudden raid on Kilcoe (Aughadown), one of the M'Carthy castles, a few miles to the west of Skibbereen ; they seized on 300 head of cattle, and desolated the country as much as they could.

    16*

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Kilcoe, in 1600, Sir Richard Percy led a detachment from the Kinsale garrison into Carbery. They meant to attack Ross, but finding it too strongly fortified, they detoured to Leap and made a sudden raid on Kilcoe at Aughadown, a MacCarthy castle west of Skibbereen. They seized 300 head of cattle and desolated the country as much as they could.

45. Algerine pirate sack of Baltimore, 20 June 1631

    Baltimore · town · Cork · 1631

    On 20 June 1631, Algerine pirates sacked Baltimore, arriving after the disputes between Coppinger, Becher, and the Baltimore Sovereign. The raid was more unscrupulous than either the O'Driscoll ancestors or the 16th-century undertakers, and is described as familiar to all.

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    Beeher, on the 20th of June, 1631 — and much more unscrupulous in their dealings were they than either Sir Eineen's ancestors, or even the undertakers of the 16th century — these -were the Algerine pirates, whose famous sack of Baltimore is so familiar to all. The well-known lines of Moore, slightly altered, will apply well to this occurrence : —

    " The colonists kicked up a deuce of a clatter,

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Baltimore. On 20 June 1631, Algerine pirates sacked this town. The raid followed the disputes between Coppinger, Becher, and the Baltimore settlers, and was more unscrupulous than anything the O'Driscolls or the 16th-century undertakers had done before. The sack became famous in its own time.

46. Ancient cathedral of Ross described in 1517 Consistorial Acts

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 1517

    The ancient cathedral of Ross, first erected by St Fachtnan, was described in 1517 as one of the most remarkable structures in the kingdom. The cruciform church with cut stone walls equalled in size the church of S. Maria del Popolo in Rome, stood in a walled city of 200 houses, and had a dean, archdeacon, chancellor, twelve canons, and four vicars.

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    In the Consistorial Acts, A. D. 1517, some interesting information is given regarding the ancient cathedral of Eoss, said to have been first erected by St. - Fachnan, and which, in the beginning of the 16th century, was, according to the " Monast. Hibernic." ^ " one of the most remarkable structures of the kingdom." At the date referred to, John O'Murrily (formerly abbot of the Abbey de Fonte Vivo,) was bishop of Eoss, having succeeded Dr. De Couroy, who resigned, owing to the infirmities of age. .

    The minute of the Consistorial Inquiry states " how the city of Eoss was situated in the Ecclesiastical Province of Cashel, in the midst of a vast plain, which stretched along the sea-shore." It contained 200 houses, and was walled round ; the land was fertile, and yielded abundant crops. The cathedral church, dedicated under the invocation of St. Fachnan, was in the centre of the city. The walls of the church were of cut stone ; there were two entrances, one at the side, the other in front, and a descent by three steps to the level of the church floor, which was unpaved. The roof was of wood, and covered with slates. It was cruciform in shape, and equalled in size the church of S. Maria del Popolo in Eome. The central nave was separated by stone pillars from

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Ross Carbery in Cork, this was the site of an ancient cathedral, first built by St Fachtnan. A consistorial inquiry in 1517 left a detailed description of it, calling it one of the most remarkable structures in the kingdom. At that time the bishop of Ross was John O'Murrily, formerly abbot of the Abbey de Fonte Vivo. He had succeeded Dr. De Couroy, who resigned because of the infirmities of age. The inquiry recorded that the city of Ross stood in the ecclesiastical province of Cashel, in the midst of a vast plain stretching along the sea-shore. It contained 200 houses and was walled round. The land was fertile and yielded abundant crops. The cathedral church, dedicated under the invocation of St Fachtnan, stood in the centre of the city. Its walls were of cut stone. There were two entrances, one at the side and one in front, with a descent of three steps to the level of the church floor, which was unpaved. The roof was of wood, covered with slates. It was cruciform in shape, and equalled in size the church of S. Maria del Popolo in Rome. The central nave was separated by stone pillars from

47. Ancient duns crowned with modern buildings at Drogheda, Naas, Castletown

    Drogheda · town · Louth

    Several modern towns and buildings were erected on the sites of ancient high duns and mounds, including Drogheda, Naas, and Castletown near Dundalk. These examples illustrate how prehistoric strongholds were later overlaid with medieval and modern structures.

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    of them were turned to different uses, and we see some of the high duns and mounds crowned with modern buildings, such as Drogheda, Naas, and Castletown, near Dundalk. The peasantry have always felt the greatest reluctance to putting them under tillage, and in every part of Ireland you will hear stories of the calamities that befell the families of the foolhardy farmers who outraged the fairies' dwellings by removing the earth or tilling the enclosure."

    This reluctance had its origin, not alone from the belief that the precincts were haunted by the pookas, leprecauns, and sheevras, who might resent, in a mysterious manner, any rude intrusion on their venerable domains, but also from the fact of their having been, according to tradition, used as cemeteries in a distant age, and the natural disinclination and instinctive dislike to disturb the remains of the departed through worldly motives. Amongst the many writers of the present century who have contributed most to the knowledge of Irish archaeology, language, and general history, the names of Petrie, O'Curry, and O'Donovan are most prominent. Their labours have been supplemented by a host of other writers, and by their united efforts, deep research, and untirinoenergy in the field of literature, many important facts have been brought to light, which were previously buried in darkness and oblivion, and an interest created amongst the general public regarding the remarkable antiquities and valuable records of Ireland's early history and ancient fame.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 5

    As the companion tells it

    The town of Drogheda stands where ancient duns and mounds once stood. It is one of several places in Ireland where high duns were crowned with modern buildings. Naas and Castletown, near Dundalk, are others. These old strongholds were turned to different uses over time, and what was once a prehistoric fort became the ground beneath a town. The peasantry always had the greatest reluctance to put these places under tillage. In every part of Ireland you will hear stories of the calamities that befell the families of foolhardy farmers who outraged the fairies' dwellings by removing the earth or tilling the enclosure. This reluctance came not only from the belief that the precincts were haunted by the pookas, the leprechauns, and the sheevras, who might resent any rude intrusion on their venerable domains. It also came from the fact that, according to tradition, these places were used as cemeteries in a distant age. There was a natural disinclination and instinctive dislike to disturb the remains of the departed through worldly motives. Among the many writers of the present century who contributed most to the knowledge of Irish archaeology, language, and general history, the names of Petrie, O'Curry, and O'Donovan stand out. Their labours were supplemented by a host of other writers, and by their united efforts, many important facts were brought to light that had previously been buried in darkness and oblivion.

48. Bishop Edmund Courcy's mortuary chapel at Timoleague Abbey

    Timoleague · town · Cork · 1491

    Dr. Edmund Courcy, originally a Franciscan monk, was translated from Clogher to the See of Ross in 1491. He enriched and re-edified Timoleague Abbey, and his mortuary chapel, though in ruins, still exists within the ancient walls of the abbey.

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    In the previous century a very distinguishedprelate was Bishop of Eoss, viz., Dr. Edmund Courcy, who was translated from Clogher to the See of Eoss in 1491. He was originally a Franciscan monk in Timoleague Abbey, which, as already referred to, he enriched and re-edified. His mortuary chapel is still in existence, though in ruins, within the ancient walls of Timoleague Abbey. He was succeeded by O'Murrily, abbot of the Monastery at Carigilihy, in Myross {Be Fonte Vivo).

    In 1601 the renowned Owen M'Egan was appointed Yicar Apostolic of Eoss by Pope Clement VIII. In the "Paoata Hibernia" (Carew)he is mentioned as a priest of the diocese of Eoss, Bachelor in Theology, Master of Arts, "and most commendable for his learning, moral conduct, and manifold virtues." After the battle of Kinsale, Captain Taaffe led some troops into Carbery, in order to wage war on the chieftains who had joined the Spaniards and O'Neil. Whilst driving before him the captured spoil (cattle and horses) he was attacked on the banks of the river Bandon by the MacCarthys and O'Sullivans, who, when on the point of giving way,

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Timoleague holds the ruins of an abbey, and within its ancient walls stands the mortuary chapel of Bishop Edmund Courcy. He was a Franciscan monk there before being translated from Clogher to the See of Ross in 1491. Once elevated, he did not forget the house where his religious life began. He enriched and re-edified Timoleague Abbey, restoring it and endowing it. His mortuary chapel still stands within the old abbey walls, though it has fallen into ruin. He was succeeded by O'Murrily, abbot of the monastery at Carigilihy in Myross. The chapel that bears Courcy's name is what remains of his connection to the place, a stone fragment of the abbey he rebuilt. The abbey itself sits at Timoleague, its walls still traceable, the chapel among them. What you can see of it now is only what time and weather have left, but it marks the man who began there as a friar and returned as a bishop to make the place greater than he found it.

49. Book of Dues presented to St. Fachtnan on Inishbeg

    Inishbeg · townland · Cork · 550–600

    At Ard-na-bPartan on Inishbeg, Conall, chieftain of Corca Laidhe, presented the Book of Dues to St. Fachtnan, first Bishop of Rosscarbery, around the late 6th century. This tradition is recorded in the Genealogy of Corca Laidhe.

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    The first island worthy of notice is Inishbeg ; here the river separates into two distinct channels — the western one being navigable for vessels about 250 tons as far as Old Court. One memorable circumstance connected with this little island is the following, mentioned in " The Genealogy of Corca Laidhe." At Ard-na-bPartan, in Inisbeg— i. e., Crab Fish Hill, on the Little Island, Conall, chieftain of Corca Laidhe (the ancient name of Carbery), presented the Book of Dues, about the latter end of the 6th century, to St. Fachtnan, the first Bishop of Eosscarbery. On each bank of the river is a small townland, called in the Ordnance Map Collatrum Beg and More : the ancient name is still the one used by the peasantry of Carbery. We will refer to this subject again, as we proceed further. Separated by a narrow channel from Inishbeg, and occupying a position between the two river channels, is the next island, Einga Eoga or Donegal, as it is styled in the charts. The latter name is derived from the words Dun-na-n Gall, which means the castle or stronghold of the foreigners^ The same derivation applies to the county of Donegal, the ancient name of which was Tyrconnell. It was called Donegal in more recent times, owing to the erection of a remarkable fort by the Danes near the town of Donegal.

    At the north end of Einga Eoga * we observe the remains of an ancient castle, erected A.D. 1215, by the Barrets of Munster. At the same period were built the castles of Dun-na-sead at Baltimore, Glandore Castle,

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 4

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Inishbeg, a small island where the river separates into two distinct channels, the western one navigable for vessels of about 250 tons as far as Old Court. A memorable circumstance connected with this island is recorded in the Genealogy of Corca Laidhe. At Ard-na-bPartan, meaning Crab Fish Hill, Conall, chieftain of Corca Laidhe, the ancient name of Carbery, presented the Book of Dues to St. Fachtnan, the first Bishop of Rosscarbery. This happened about the latter end of the 6th century. On each bank of the river is a place called Collatrum Beg and More on the Ordnance Map, though the ancient name is still used by the peasantry of Carbery. Separated by a narrow channel from Inishbeg, between the two river channels, lies the next island, Ringa Roega or Donegal as styled in the charts. Donegal derives from Dun-na-n Gall, meaning castle or stronghold of the foreigners. The county of Donegal, anciently Tyrconnell, got its name similarly from a fort built by the Danes near the town. At the north end of Ringa Roega stand the remains of an ancient castle, erected in 1215 by the Barrets of Munster. Around the same period were built the castles of Dun-na-sead at Baltimore and Glandore Castle.

50. Caharagh labourers invade Skibbereen

    Skibbereen · town · Cork · 1847

    During the Famine, labourers from Caharagh invaded Skibbereen, and military were concealed in the shade of the schoolhouse on that day. The event is a notable episode of Famine-era unrest in the district.

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    " Some twenty years after the famine-scourge had passed away, and oyer two millions of the Irish people with it, I visited Skibbereen. Approaching the town from the (. ork side it looks rather an important place. It is the seat of the Catholic Bishop of Ross, and attention is immediately arrested by a group of fine ecclesiastical buildings on an elevated plateau to the left, just beside the road, or street I should rather say, for those buildings are the beginning of the town ;- they consist of a cathedral and a convent, with very commodious schools, and a pretty Gothic chapel. On the other side of the way is the schoolhouse, in shade of which the military were concealed on the day the Caharagh labourers invaded Skibbereen. A short distance beyond the town, the wooded hill of Knockomagh, rising to a considerable height, overhangs Lough Hyne, one of the most beautiful spots in Ireland. Some miles to the westward lies the pretty island of Sherkin, which, with Tullagh to the east, makes the charming little bay of Baltimore completely land-locked. Out in front of all, like a giant sentinel, stands the island of Cape Clear, breasting with its defiant strength that vast ocean whose waves foam around it, lashing its shores and rushing up its crannied bluffs, still and for ever to be flung back in shattered spray by those bold and rocky headlands.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 7

    As the companion tells it

    As the road brings you through Skibbereen, there is a schoolhouse here that carries a piece of famine history. In 1846 and 1847, the Caharagh labourers invaded this town. On that day, the military were concealed in the shade of the schoolhouse. Skibbereen is the seat of the Catholic Bishop of Ross, and approaching from Cork it looks rather an important place. A group of fine ecclesiastical buildings stands on an elevated plateau where the town begins, a cathedral and a convent, with commodious schools and a pretty Gothic chapel. The schoolhouse stands nearby, and that is where the soldiers hid while the Caharagh labourers came into Skibbereen during the famine years. Beyond the town, the wooded hill of Knockomagh rises to a considerable height and overhangs Lough Hyne, called one of the most beautiful spots in Ireland. Some miles westward lies the pretty island of Sherkin, which with Tullagh to the east makes the bay of Baltimore completely land-locked. Out in front, like a giant sentinel, stands the island of Cape Clear, breasting that vast ocean whose waves foam around it, lashing its shores and rushing up its crannied bluffs, flung back in shattered spray by those bold rocky headlands.

51. Cape Clear cabins: thatch secured with straw ropes

    Clear Island · island or archipelago · Cork

    Cabins on Cape Clear Island had straw thatching roughly laid on and covered with an interwoven network of straw ropes called soogauns, tightly drawn across the roof. Large stones or bolts embedded in the walls secured the free ends to prevent roofs being blown away by fierce winter gales.

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    The sheep on Cape were formerly a peculiar variety, small in size, the flesh very delicate in flavour ; they had long, depending, twisted horns ; the wool was exceedingly fine, a fact attributed to the nature of the pasturage near the sea. The houses, or rather cabins, have the straw thatching, which is roughly laid on, eovered with an interwoven network of straw ropes (soogauns), tightly drawn across. To the free ends which hang over the eaves, either large stones are attached, or they are twisted securely around bolts, firmly imbedded in the walls. This contrivance is absolutely necessary to prevent the roofs being blown away by the fierce gales which prevail during the winter months.

    As the soil, except on the north side of the island, is poor, shallow, and unproductive, covered with heath and furze and stone walls in abundance, the hardy natives, in order to procure a livelihood, must depend in a great measure on the prosperity of the fisheries and the success of their pilotage. They cannot now, as in the good old times, supplement their ordinary mode of subsistence by a little smuggling on the sly, the landing of an occasional contraband cargo, and the appropriation of the stray waifs of the ocean, the Flotsam and Jetsam of the

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono

    As the companion tells it

    On Clear Island, off the coast of Cork, the cabins were built to survive what the winter months would throw at them. The straw thatching was laid on roughly, not neat or finely trimmed, and over it went an interwoven network of straw ropes, called soogauns, drawn tightly across the roof. The free ends of these ropes hung over the eaves. To those ends the islanders fastened large stones, or they twisted the rope around bolts set firmly into the walls. This was not decoration. It was a necessity. The fierce gales that swept the island in winter would tear the roofs away without it. The island asked a great deal of those who lived on it. The soil, except on the north side, was poor and shallow, covered with heath and furze and stone walls. The people depended on the fisheries and on their work as pilots to make a living. In earlier times they had supplemented this with a little smuggling, the occasional contraband cargo landed quietly, and the appropriation of what the sea washed up. The author calls those the good old times, and they were already past.

52. Castlehaven and the Audley family Earldom

    Castlehaven · townland · Cork · 1616–1777

    After the O'Driscolls' departure, Castlehaven became the property of the Audley family. George Touchet, Lord Audley, who was wounded at the siege of Kinsale, was created first Earl of Castlehaven in 1616 by James I. The title was enjoyed until abolished in 1777, and in 1645 the castle was occupied by Parliamentary forces under Captain William Salmon.

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    Castlehaven, after the departure of the O'Driscolls, became the property of the Audley family. George Tbuchet, Lord Audley, Governor of Utrecht, who had a command in the English army during the siege of Kinsale, and who was severely wounded during the battle which took place in its vicinity, was created first Earl of Castlehaven, in 1616, by letters patent in the time of James I. The title was enjoyed by this family until the year 1777, when it was abolished. In 1645 the castle was occupied by the Parliamentary forces, under the command of Captain "William Salmon. At this period one of the most prominent men in the country was the Earl of Castlehaven, who was appointed by general consent commander-in-chief of the Irish Royalist forces.

    Castletownsend, the original seat of the Townsend family in Ireland, was anciently called Sleugleigh (Smith), which was built originally by and belonged to the M'Carthys. The old castle, the ruins of which can be observed within the demesne, was attacked in the year 1690 by some of James the Second's troops, under the command of O'Driscoll. They were repulsed, and their commander slain ; but shortly afterwards Mac Fineen O'Driscoll, with a force of 400 men, attacked the place, and compelled the garrison to surrender ; subsequently Colonel Colliford attacked O'Driscoll, and retook the castle.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Castlehaven passed from the O'Driscolls to the Audley family. George Touchet, Lord Audley, who had been Governor of Utrecht and held a command in the English army during the siege of Kinsale, was severely wounded in the battle fought near there. In 1616, James I created him first Earl of Castlehaven by letters patent. The Audley family kept the title until 1777, when it was abolished. In 1645, Parliamentary forces under Captain William Salmon occupied the castle. By then the Earl of Castlehaven was one of the most prominent men in the country, appointed by general consent commander-in-chief of the Irish Royalist forces. Castletownsend nearby was the original seat of the Townsend family in Ireland, anciently called Sleugleigh. The M'Carthys built and owned it first. In 1690 some of James the Second's troops under O'Driscoll attacked the old castle, whose ruins can be seen within the demesne. They were repulsed and their commander slain, but Mac Fineen O'Driscoll returned with 400 men, forced the garrison to surrender, and held the place until Colonel Colliford attacked and retook it.

53. Cliodhna (Cleena) the fairy queen chained at Glandore

    near Glandore · population centre · Cork

    Cliodhna, queen of the fairies of south Munster, is said to have been chained to a rock near Glandore harbour. Her supernatural deeds and fairy spells over mortals are celebrated in ancient manuscripts and in the oral traditions of the peasantry.

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    To pass from fact to fiction, from everyday life to the misty regions of romance and legendary lore, I beg to introduce to the reader's notice one of the many fairy legends which, although of an unreal nature, has, however, imparted a considerable share of notoriety and fame to the name of Glandore. Cliodhna (Cleena), the queen of the fairies of South Munster, is said to have been chained to a rock near Glandore harbour ._ Her deeds of supernatural pOwer and the fairy spells she exercised over mortals have been celebrated from time immemorial in the ancient manuscripts of the county, and in the traditionary stories of the peasantry. In a work of the late Dr. Todd, of Trinity College, entitled " The War of the Gaedhill against the Gaill ; or, Invasions of Ireland by the Danes and other Norsemen," is the following passage: — "During Brian Boru's administration he banished and enslaved the foreigners, and rescued the country from oppression. A lone woman might have walked in safety from Torach,.now Tory Island, off the north coast of Donegal, to Cliodhna, a rock in the harbour of Glandore, i. e., through tbe whole length of Ireland, carrying a ring of gold on a horse rod." Referring to Cuan Dor, he remarks : — " In this bay is the rock called Cliodhna's, upon which

    186 _ Sketches in Carlery?-

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    As the road comes through Glandore, you're passing a place whose fame comes as much from legend as from fact. Cliodhna, or Cleena, queen of the fairies of south Munster, is said to have been chained to a rock near the harbour here. Her supernatural powers and fairy spells over mortals have been celebrated from ancient times in the old manuscripts of the county, and in the traditional stories of the peasantry. Dr. Todd of Trinity College, in his work on the Gaedhill against the Gaill, records that during Brian Boru's administration he banished and enslaved the foreigners and rescued the country from oppression. Todd writes that a lone woman might have walked in safety from Tory Island off the north coast of Donegal to Cliodhna, a rock in the harbour of Glandore, that is, through the whole length of Ireland, carrying a ring of gold on a horse rod. Referring to Cuan Dor, Todd remarks that in this bay is the rock called Cliodhna's, upon which

54. Fairy-guarded passage to Tir-na-noge at Lis an Earla

    Ballinlough · townland · Cork

    A tradition recorded by Mr. and Mrs. Hall held that the subterranean passage connecting Lis an Earla with Ballinlough Lake was guarded by fairies day and night. It was believed to lead to Tir-na-noge, a land of perpetual youth beneath the lake waters.

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    Mrs. and Mr. Hall, in their work on Ireland, refer to a strange legend connected with this old lis — the tradition being that the subterranean passage imagined to connect it with the lake was carefully guarded by the fairies both day and night. It was also believed to lead to some bright and happy elysium beneath the waters of the lake called Tirna-noge (the land of youth), whose inhabitants never suffered from the infirmities of old age, but always basked in the sunlight of perennial youth.

    About two miles east of Ballinlough, and a mile east of Conanagh, we observe a small lake called Lough Adereen, very insignificant in appearance, but still worthy of notice. The lake is bounded on one side by a bog, which has encroached upon its surface, making it much smaller now than it formerly was. Small floating islands, at one time in considerable numbers, existed on the lake — a few are only to be seen now. These islands were supposed by the

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 14

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Ballinlough there is a place called Lis an Earla. Mr. and Mrs. Hall recorded a strange legend connected with this old lis. The tradition holds that a subterranean passage was imagined to connect Lis an Earla with Ballinlough Lake, and that this passage was carefully guarded by the fairies both day and night. It was also believed to lead to some bright and happy elysium beneath the waters of the lake, called Tir-na-noge, the land of youth. The inhabitants of that place never suffered from the infirmities of old age, but always basked in the sunlight of perennial youth. So the old story goes. A guarded way beneath the ground, running to the water, and beneath that water a land where no one grows old. That is what was believed about this place.

55. Glandore fishing industry overtaken by foreign fleets

    near Glandore · population centre · Cork · 1868

    Glandore's waters teem with edible fish, but local fishermen lack the boats, gear, and capital for deep-sea fishing. During summer, foreign fleets from Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Boulogne, and Dieppe exploit the rich mackerel, pilchard, and herring shoals, reaping harvests that should benefit local labourers.

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    Grlandore, as a fishing station, ought to attain to some importance if capital were expended, and enterprise and energy awakened to carry out a more complete and extensive system of deep-sea fishing ' than exists at present. The sea off Grlandore, and, in fact off all the harhours along the coast, abounds in edible fish of all varieties. The native fishermen, owing to want of scientific training and capital, have neither boats, luggers, nor smacks, as a rule, sufficiently seaworthy and capacious, nor fishing gear ofproper efficiency to enable them to take larger hauls of fish in the deep waters. The consequence is that during the summer months fleets of luggers and smacks come across from Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Boulogne, and Dieppe to the Irish coast, where. the mackerel, pilchards, and herrings swarm in immense shoals, and make a rich harvest. A single take of fish is sometimes valued at £200. During the year 1868 it appears that over £100,000 worth of fish was exported by the foreign fishermen who frequent Eansale Harbour, and this is probably now on the increase. These facts show a great want of employed capital, local enterprise, and development of industrial resources in this part of the country, when French and English luggers come from such a distance, and almost monopolize the deep-sea fisheries along the coast, which should be, if things were managed properly, an abundant source of employment to the labouring classes of the community, and which constitute a very important branch of commerce and industry in every country.

    Lewis, in his topographical dictionary, referring to Grlandore, says; — "This seems to have .been a

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    Glandore, down in west Cork, sits on waters that ought to feed its own people. The sea off Glandore, and off all the harbours along this coast, abounds in edible fish of every variety. Mackerel, pilchards, and herrings swarm in immense shoals through the summer months. Yet the native fishermen have neither the boats nor the gear to reach those deep waters. They lack the scientific training and the capital. Their luggers and smacks are not seaworthy or capacious enough. Their fishing gear is not efficient enough for larger hauls. So the harvest goes to others. Each summer, fleets of luggers and smacks come across from Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Boulogne, and Dieppe to the Irish coast. They make a rich harvest of what should feed local labourers. A single take of fish is sometimes valued at 200 pounds. In 1868, over 100,000 pounds worth of fish was exported by the foreign fishermen who frequent Courtmacsherry Harbour, and this was probably still increasing. French and English luggers come from great distances and almost monopolise the deep-sea fisheries along the coast. If things were managed properly, this should be an abundant source of employment for the labouring classes of the community. As it stands, the want of employed capital and local enterprise leaves a great branch of commerce and industry in foreign hands.

56. Golden treasure tradition at Dunanore Castle

    Doonanore Castle · castle · Cork

    A tradition held that Dunanore, as its name implies, was a place where golden treasure had been buried. A soldier from the Cape Clear garrison during Queen Anne's reign excavated the soil to sea level seeking the hidden treasure of the Golden Fort but found only sand and shells; the opening he dug is still pointed out.

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    "We cannot delay, however, over such sesthetic • pursuits, and must return again to the castle of Dunanore and the fortunes of Sir Fineen O'Driscoll. Dunanore Castle was captured, together with the rest of the island, on the 22nd of March, 1601, by Captain Roger Harvey. For these, and other services, he was granted a commission at the time by Lord Deputy Mountjoy as Governor of Carbeiy. By means of artillery, which Harvey planted on the high ground adjoining the castle, he compelled the garrison to surrender, and battered down the eastern wall of the castle. A tradition prevailed for a long time that Dunanore, as its name would imply, was a place where a golden treasure had been buried, and a story is current that, many years ago, in the reign of Queen Anne, when a garrison of soldiers was stationed in Cape Clear, one of the soldiers — whose greed for wealth was excited by the stories he had heard of large treasures being secreted beneath the foundations of the Golden Fort—proceeded to work with might and main to discover the hidden treasure; however, his labours were unrequited. Although he excavated the soil to the level of the sea, no hidden treasure ever met his anxious gaze, except the sand and shells of the sea. The opening in the ground is still pointed out where the disappointed red-coat commenced his fruitless labours.

    The islanders recount the following supernatural stories regarding Dunanore, which they firmly believe to be haunted. On more than one occasion a

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    Doonanore Castle was taken on the 22nd of March 1601, when Captain Roger Harvey captured it together with the rest of the island. He planted artillery on the high ground adjoining the castle, battered down the eastern wall, and compelled the garrison to surrender. For these and other services, Lord Deputy Mountjoy granted him a commission as Governor of Carbery. A long tradition held that Dunanore, as its name implies, was a place where golden treasure had been buried. The stories spoke of large treasures secreted beneath the foundations of the Golden Fort. In the reign of Queen Anne, a garrison of soldiers was stationed in Cape Clear. One soldier, whose greed for wealth was excited by these stories, set to work to discover the hidden treasure. He excavated the soil down to the level of the sea, but his labours were unrequited. No hidden treasure met his anxious gaze, except the sand and shells of the sea. The opening in the ground is still pointed out where the disappointed red-coat commenced his fruitless labours. The islanders recount supernatural stories about Dunanore, which they firmly believe to be haunted.

57. Military barracks at Rosscarbery and O'Donovan residence

    Ross Carbery · town · Cork · 1807–1866

    Large military barracks formerly stood at Ross near St. Fachnan's Monastery, changing masters through the wars of two centuries. Now semi-ruinous, they later housed the O'Donovan Island branch, lessees of Rosscarbery town from the late 18th century. Dr. Donovan of Skibbereen was born there in December 1807.

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    Large military barracks were formerly erected at Ross in close proximity to the site of St. Fachnan's Monastery. These barracks where so many warlike garrisons had been stationed from time to time during the stirring events of the last two centuries, and which changed masters as often as the fortunes of war veered from one side to the other, are now in a semi-ruinous condition. Here lived formerly, after the military had evacuated the place, a branch of the O'Donovan (the Island branch), to whom the town of Rosscarbery belonged, under a lease, from the end of the 18th century up to within the last ten years ; and here also was born in December, 1807, Dr. Donovan, senior, of Skibbereen.

    Ross, like many other ancient towns in Ireland, gradually diminished in size, and declined in prosperity, not keeping pace with the times, owing to the constantly disturbed state of the country, which interfered with the proper development of industrial resources. About sixty-five years ago it was the busy centre of a colony of linen weavers, and a considerable trade flourished in that line. After the decline of the linen manufactures, the prosperity of the town was also on the wane. Latterly, however, there has been some advance in improvement.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up along Ross Carbery in County Cork. Large military barracks once stood near St. Fachnan's Monastery, where warlike garrisons were stationed through the stirring events of the last two centuries. The barracks changed masters as often as the fortunes of war veered from one side to the other. They are now semi-ruinous. After the military evacuated, a branch of the O'Donovan family, the Island branch, lived there. They held the town of Rosscarbery under a lease from the end of the 18th century up to within the last ten years. In December 1807, Dr. Donovan, senior, of Skibbereen, was born in that place. Ross, like many ancient towns in Ireland, gradually diminished in size and declined in prosperity. The constantly disturbed state of the country interfered with the proper development of industrial resources. About 65 years ago it was the busy centre of a colony of linen weavers, and a considerable trade flourished in that line. After the decline of the linen manufactures, the prosperity of the town was on the wane. Latterly there has been some advance in improvement.

58. O'Donovans settle in Drimoleague

    Drimoleague · town · Cork · 1192–1200

    The O'Donovans, expelled from their ancestral domains on the river Maigue in county Limerick by the Fitzgeralds, retreated south and settled in the mountainous district of Corca Laidhe, now the parish of Drimoleague, after defeating the original proprietors. They transferred their tribe name Cairbre to the new territory.

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    the coast in this vicinity the latter erected the castles of Dundeide, Dunworley, and Doneen, whilst the Barrys erected near Ross the castle of Rath-Barry, the modern name of which is Castle Freke. The O'Donovans, about the same period, viz. the close of the 12th century, retreated to the south from their ancestral domains on the banks of the river Maigue, county Limerick, where they occupied a territory called Cairbre Aebha (beautiful), situated in the barony of Coshma, near Kilmallock (the Baalbec of Ireland). They were expelled by the Fitzgeralds, who then took up their abode in Limerick. The O'Donovans settled down finally in the mountainous district of Corca Laidhe, known at present as the parish of Drimoleague, after defeating the original proprietors ; to their newly-acquired possessions they transferred the tribe name of the family Cairbre. It

    -.

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 2

    As the companion tells it

    Drimoleague was not always O'Donovan land. Around the close of the 12th century the O'Donovans retreated south from their ancestral domains on the banks of the river Maigue in county Limerick. There they had occupied a territory called Cairbre Aebha, meaning beautiful, situated in the barony of Coshma near Kilmallock, which was called the Baalbec of Ireland. They were expelled by the Fitzgeralds, who then took up their abode in Limerick. The O'Donovans settled down finally in the mountainous district of Corca Laidhe, known at present as the parish of Drimoleague, after defeating the original proprietors. To their newly-acquired possessions they transferred the tribe name of the family, Cairbre.

59. O'Sullivans seize Bear and Bantry from O'Driscolls

    Bantry · town · Cork · 1192

    In 1192, the O'Sullivans, originally from Cnock-Raffon and Clonmel in county Tipperary, were forced to migrate south. They wrested from the O'Driscolls the western portion of Corca Laidhe, now known as the baronies of Bear and Bantry.

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    In the year 1192 the O'Sullivans, who had been originally located about Cnoc-Raffon and Clonmel (Cluain-Meala), in the present county Tipperary, were forced to migrate to the south, and wrested from the O'Driscolls that portion of Corca Laidhe now known as the baronies of Bear and Bantry. The Barrys and O'Cowhigs seized on the eastern portion \ of the principality, now Ibane and Barryroe. Along

    the coast in this vicinity the latter erected the castles of Dundeide, Dunworley, and Doneen, whilst the Barrys erected near Ross the castle of Rath-Barry, the modern name of which is Castle Freke. The O'Donovans, about the same period, viz. the close of the 12th century, retreated to the south from their ancestral domains on the banks of the river Maigue, county Limerick, where they occupied a territory called Cairbre Aebha (beautiful), situated in the barony of Coshma, near Kilmallock (the Baalbec of Ireland). They were expelled by the Fitzgeralds, who then took up their abode in Limerick. The O'Donovans settled down finally in the mountainous district of Corca Laidhe, known at present as the parish of Drimoleague, after defeating the original proprietors ; to their newly-acquired possessions they transferred the tribe name of the family Cairbre. It

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 2

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Bantry, a town on the road through the west of Cork. In 1192 the O'Sullivans, who had been originally located about Cnoc-Raffon and Clonmel in what is now county Tipperary, were forced to migrate to the south. They wrested from the O'Driscolls that portion of Corca Laidhe now known as the baronies of Bear and Bantry. The Barrys and O'Cowhigs seized on the eastern portion of the principality, now Ibane and Barryroe. Along the coast in this vicinity the latter erected the castles of Dundeide, Dunworley, and Doneen, whilst the Barrys erected near Ross the castle of Rath-Barry, the modern name of which is Castle Freke. The O'Donovans, about the same period, retreated to the south from their ancestral domains on the banks of the river Maigue, county Limerick, where they occupied a territory called Cairbre Aebha, situated in the barony of Coshma, near Kilmallock. They were expelled by the Fitzgeralds, who then took up their abode in Limerick. The O'Donovans settled down finally in the mountainous district of Corca Laidhe, known at present as the parish of Drimoleague, after defeating the original proprietors.

60. St. Kieran's pillar-stone at Tra-Kieran, Cape Clear

    Cape Clear · electoral division · Cork · 402

    A pillar-stone imbedded in the sand at Tra-Kieran (St. Kieran's Strand) on Cape Clear is said to be the work of St. Kieran's own hands, commemorating his Christian mission. About three feet high and eighteen inches in circumference, it bears traces of two sculptured crosses near its summit and is venerated by pilgrims.

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    That St. Kieran of Cape Clear must have been a man distinguished by rare perfection of mind and holiness of life, great energy of character, and deep devotion to his calling, is evident from the account, brief and meagre though itlbe, we are able to obtain from reliable sources. His birth-place was in the immediate vicinity of Kintracht (White-strand), called since that remarkable event Trakieran immediately within sight of the dwelling-house, where afterwards a chapel dedicated to his name was erected called St. Kieran's chapel. The ruins maj' still be observed, of a more modern edifice, however ; occupying the same position near the sea, and including within the aisle and choir an ancient burial-place. In the centre of Tra- Kieran, deeply imbedded in the sand, we observe a remarkable pillar-stone, said to be the work of St. Kieran's own hauds, and fixed in this locality in order to commemorate his name, and to be pointed out as a memorial of his Christian mission. The tradition regarding this circumstance has been handed down from generation to generation in an unbroken line, and is as fresh to-day in the minds of the inhabitants of Cape Clear, as when, fourteen centuries and a half ago (a long space of time), St. Kieran converted their pagan ancestors to Christianity, thus gaining far himself the title of "Primarius Hibernite Sanctorum" (first in order of time of the saints in Ireland).

    The pillar-stone referred to is a promiuent object on the strand of North Harbour ; it- is firmly fis§d

    Internet Archive sketchesincarber00dono, Chapter 8

    As the companion tells it

    On Cape Clear, at a strand called Tra-Kieran, there is a pillar-stone set deep in the sand, about three feet high and eighteen inches in circumference, with traces of two sculptured crosses near its summit. People say St. Kieran shaped it with his own hands and fixed it there to commemorate his name and his Christian mission. The tradition has passed from generation to generation without breaking, and the people of the island still hold it fresh in their minds. St. Kieran was born in the immediate vicinity of Kintracht, the White-strand, a place renamed Tra-Kieran after him. Within sight of the dwelling-house there, a chapel dedicated to his name was later erected. The ruins of a more modern building on the same spot can still be seen near the sea, and within its aisle and choir lies an ancient burial-place. Around the year 402, St. Kieran converted the pagan ancestors of the island's people to Christianity, and for this he was given the title, in the words of the source, "Primarius Hiberniae Sanctorum," first in order of time of the saints in Ireland. The pillar-stone stands prominent on the strand of North Harbour, firmly fixed, and pilgrims venerate it still.