Sketches in Ireland: Descriptive of Interesting Portions of the Counties of Donegal, Cork, and Kerry

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Eagles trained to supply food to the hidden family

   Glengarriff · townland · Cork · 1602–1603

   Unable to find food for Lady O'Sullivan and her children hidden in the boolie, Gorrane M'Swiney sent his son Phadrig down a rope of bog-fir fibres to tie the necks of young eagles in a cliff nest so they could not swallow the game their parents brought, allowing the family to steal the eagles' prey daily until the English withdrew.

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   and gave the greater part to be broiled for supper, and long before the following daj-break^ Gorrane got up firom his bed of heath, and he awoke Phadrig, his son, a boy. of about fourteen years old: " Phadrig ayich, get up, come along with me." The boy, Ught and active, was beside him in an instant, and out they both started — the father, with his. wooden rope in his hand. Just as the day was breaking, they came to the brink of the mountain* ridge, that ascends from the precipitous valley, where the eagles built their nest; and just as they arrived at the verge of the chasm, they saw the old eagles soaring away to meet the sun and to seek for their prey over land and sea. "Phadrig, acushla, look down there," says the father, "look down below, and see that bird's nest— ndown there you must go by the help of this rope, if you have any regard for the life of the mother that bore you, and of the sweet mistres8> for whom we are bound to live or spend our blood and die. You must go down by the help of this rope, and tie these straps that I will give you round the necks of yonder gaping greedy guts; don't choak them for the life of you, but just

   328 HOW TO TREA-^ EAGLES.

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   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Glengarriff, eagles once kept a hidden family alive. In 1602, with the English in the country, Lady O'Sullivan and her children lay hidden in a boolie, and no food could be found. Gorrane M'Swiney had a plan. He made a rope of bog-fir fibres and woke his son Phadrig, a boy of about fourteen, long before daybreak. "Phadrig, get up, come along with me," he said. The boy was beside him in an instant, and out they started, the father with his wooden rope in his hand. As day was breaking they came to the brink of the mountain ridge above the precipitous valley where the eagles had built their nest. The old eagles were soaring away to meet the sun and seek their prey over land and sea. "Phadrig, acushla, look down there," his father said. "Down there you must go by the help of this rope, if you have any regard for the life of the mother that bore you, and of the sweet mistress for whom we are bound to live or spend our blood and die." Phadrig went down and tied straps round the necks of the young eagles, not to choke them but to stop them swallowing the game their parents brought. Each day the family took the eagles' prey, and so they ate until the English withdrew.

2. Horses slaughtered and coracles made at Terryglass to cross the Shannon

   Terryglass · townland · Tipperary · 1602

   Trapped between the pursuing sheriff's forces and the broad Shannon near the old college of Terryglass, O'Sullivan's men slaughtered their own horses in the wood of Dromina and made basket boats covered with the hides to cross the river, escaping just as their pursuers arrived on the Ormond hills.

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   ride on them over the Shannon. Come, boys» oat with your skeins> let each man cat his good horse's throat, and more's the pily to do it^ and we will make coraghs of their skins, and dress a steak to satisfy hunger even £rom their flesh." Accordingly they set to work, the horses were slaughtered in the wood of Dromina that overhangs the ancient abb^ of Terryglass and the old fortress of the (^Griffins. They made basket boats, and covered them with their home hides; and just as the passe comUatus oi Tv^i^Tvrji with the sheriffs at their head, were riding down the Ormond hills overhanging the Shannon, where they expected to find and overwhelm the ronaways, O' Sullivan and his troops were afloat on the bosom of the Shannon, whidb, as in pily to their adventure, spread its waveless bosom to receive them, and across they wafted themselves in sight of their surprised and disappointed enemies. And now, having landed on that moorland district of Galway, which in those days was called Tough-Kilnalehem, they here rested as long as their horse*flesh lasted, and then were forced to press onward toward Clanrickard, where they were attacked by Sir Thomas Bourke and Captain Maltby, who at that time hdd this portion of Connaught for the queen.

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3. Slieve na Yorihih, the Mountain of Slaughter

   Ballybeg · townland · Kerry · 1652–1653

   A mountain in Ballybeg was named Slieve na Yorihih, meaning the Mountain of Slaughter, after Captain Barrington's men massacred families there without sparing man, woman or child, using a bloodhound to catch those fleeing.

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   manj fiunilies out of Ivrah, Bordonine, and Glencarn, met at Glencam with an intent to go over the river Lane for their safety; who had the hard fate of meeting with a strong party sent out hy Brigadier Neilson, governor of the county, as well as of Ross Castle, at a mountain called Reana-larane, said party heing commanded hy Qaptain Barrington, a blood-thirsty man» who on this occasion spared neither man, woman, or child* Some few young men by their great activity were making their escape until Barrmgton set on a bloodhound he had with him, of a large size and swiftness, who overtook and tore many of them. Soon after, several poor families of Bordonine, Ballybeg, &c. &c. employed a friend who was under the protection of the governor of Nedeen, to procure a pass for them from him ; this pass was promised should be given them on a certain day, if they repaired at that time to the river Sneem, to which place the^ went with their cattle, &c. &c. and then not meeting with the said pass, it was their dire fate to meet with Captain Barrington at a large mountain in Ballybeg, that to this day goes by the name of Slieve na Yorihih — ^the Mountain of Slaughter. Neither man, woman, or child were there spared and those who endeavoured to make their escape were torn by his bloodhound, one young man excepted, who, by his creat activity in running, made his way towards a hill called Sanavame, a good dutance from the mountain. Barrington's men pursued him, and, unable to come up with him, set the bloodhound on him, which the youth perceiving prepared himself by slipping off his waistcoat, and wrapping it round his left arm and wrist, he then drew his broad-sword, and, as the brute was rushing on him with great fury, its first attempt at tearing him, he parried with his left hand, and with the right he gave it such a manly stroke that he cut off the two fore feet. His name (as near as I could leam) was Brennan ; whoever he was he had great thanks, praise, and prayers, for destroying the merciless beast, which never is forgot in the country ; some to this day, when they meet with cruel dealings, or bad neighbours, are apt to say, they would as soon trust Barrington*s bloodhound as them.

   380 APPENDIX.

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 153

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Ballybeg, you are coming up on a mountain that still goes by the name Slieve na Yorihih, the Mountain of Slaughter. In 1652 and 1653, several poor families from Bordonine, Ballybeg, and other places employed a friend who was under the protection of the governor of Nedeen to procure a pass for them. The pass was promised on a certain day, if they repaired to the river Sneem. They went there with their cattle, but the pass never came. Instead, they met Captain Barrington at this mountain. He was a blood-thirsty man. Neither man, woman, nor child was spared. Those who tried to escape were torn by his bloodhound, a large and swift dog. One young man, by great activity in running, made his way toward a hill called Sanavame, a good distance from the mountain. Barrington's men pursued him and, unable to catch him, set the bloodhound on him. The youth saw it coming and prepared himself. He slipped off his waistcoat and wrapped it round his left arm and wrist. He drew his broad-sword. As the brute rushed on him with great fury, he parried its first attempt at tearing him with his left hand, and with his right he gave it such a manly stroke that he cut off the two fore feet. His name, as near as the author could learn, was Brennan. He had great thanks, praise, and prayers for destroying the merciless beast, which is never forgotten in the country. Some to this day, when they meet with cruel dealings or bad neighbours, are apt to say they "would as soon trust Barrington's bloodhound as them."

4. Gorrane M'Swiney's hidden boolie at the Eagle's Precipice

   Glengarriff · townland · Cork · 1602–1603

   O'Sullivan Beare, fleeing after the defeat in Munster, entrusted his wife and children to his foster-brother Gorrane M'Swiney, who built a concealed hut under the Eagle's Precipice at Glengarriff so cleverly disguised that English soldiers scouring the mountain could never find it. The family sheltered there during the terrible famine that followed Wilmot's devastation of the region.

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   Gorrane, whose whole soul was in his charge^ returned with them to a boohe he had set up under the foot of the Eagle's Precipice at Glengari£r. This boolie, or hut, was so contrived, that Wihnot and his Sassenach devils, (as Gorrane called them,) might scour the mountain over and never see it, or suspect that there was in such a desert a human habitation. It was erected against the face of a rocky ridge, the roof sloping down till it touched the moor, was covered with scraws and sods of heath, so that the place was undistinguishable from the shelving slope of the mountain, and the entrance a long, distant, and winding passage in the rock, and charcoal burned on the hearth for fire — ^it was secure from suspicion. But how was the princess of Bear and Bantry to be sup^

   GORRANB M*SWINEY. 325

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 129

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Glengarriff, Gorrane M'Swiney built a hidden boolie under the Eagle's Precipice for the wife and children of O'Sullivan Beare, who were fleeing after the defeat in Munster in 1602. He set the hut against the face of a rocky ridge, the roof sloping down to touch the moor, covered with sods of heath so it was indistinguishable from the mountainside. The entrance was a long winding passage in the rock, and charcoal burned on the hearth inside. Wilmot and his soldiers scoured the mountain and never found it, never suspected a human habitation in such a desert. The family sheltered there through the famine that followed Wilmot's devastation of the region.

5. Mary Riordan's grave-clay water cure from Kinsale and Cork graves

   Kinsale · town · Cork · 1823

   A physician's 1823 account describes Mary Riordan of Cork, afflicted with a disgorging of beetles, who had for years drunk water infused with clay taken from the graves of two dead clergymen at Kinsale and Cork, believing it would protect her from disease and sin.

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   prising complaint, whereby at intervals she dischaiged, by vomiting, &c. quantities of insects of the beetle species, some more than half an inch long, in all stages of their existencesome as larvfld, some as pupsB, and some in their winged state, which, as soon as they were discharged, flew about the room. The doctor, in anxiety to elicit every circumstance which might tend to develope the mode of the introduction of these insects, asked the patient bad she been in the habit of eating clay ? Her answer was, that when she was about fifteen years of age, two clergymen of her persuasion died, and she being told by some old woman, that if she would drink daily during a certain period a portion of water in which was infused clay taken from the graves of those clergymen, she would be secured for ever against disease and sin ; she accordingly walked to Kinsale, a distance of twelve miles, where one of the clergymen was interred, and succeeded in bringing away an apron and handkerchief full of the clay from the grave ; to this she added some mugs full of clay from the other clergyman's grave, who was buried in the city of Cork. Her practice was to infuse, from time to time, according to the exigency, in a vessel of water, a portion of the holy clay, the mixture being always allowed to rest until the grosser particles of the clay subsided. She had been in the daily use of the water medicated according to this disgusting formula. The beetles discharged from the woman were principally of the Bleps Mortisaga species, which is well known to inhabit church«yards."

   IMDtJSTRY. 239

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 95

   As the companion tells it

   Coming up through Kinsale now. In 1823, a physician here wrote about Mary Riordan of Cork. She had a complaint where, at intervals, she vomited quantities of beetles, some more than half an inch long. They came in all stages of their existence, some as larvae, some as pupae, and some in their winged state. As soon as they were discharged, they flew about the room. The doctor wanted to know how the insects got into her body, and asked had she been in the habit of eating clay. She told him that when she was about 15, two clergymen of her persuasion died. An old woman told her that if she drank daily, for a certain period, water infused with clay taken from the graves of those clergymen, she would be secured for ever against disease and sin. She walked to Kinsale, 12 miles, where one of the clergymen was interred, and brought away an apron and handkerchief full of clay from the grave. She added mugs full of clay from the other clergyman's grave, who was buried in the city of Cork. Her practice was to infuse, from time to time, a portion of the clay in a vessel of water, letting the mixture rest until the grosser particles subsided. She had been in daily use of this water. The beetles discharged from her were principally of the Bleps Mortisaga species, known to inhabit churchyards.

6. Massacre at the wood of Easgah in Derreen

   Derreen · townland · Kerry · 1652–1653

   A garrison party from Kenmare surprised a colony of families sheltering in the wood of Easgah in Derreen, sparing none but a few women and children, with atrocities including a mother's breast being cut off with a hanger after her infant was threatened.

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   A short time after said slaughter, some poor mhabitants of Ballybeg were obliged to withdraw to Iveragh, Bordonine, &c. &c. and, as they left some sowings behind them in Ballybeg, they, next harvest, attempted to come and cut, and bring away the sowings, and to that intent removed their families along with them, and had out sentinels by day, but by night went to shelter themselves in the adjoiningp woods. This being discovered by the garrison at Nedeen, a party was sent out in boats by night, the most of them being of Captain Purefoy*s company, who surprised said colonies in a wood, called Easgah, in Derequin. None were spared except a few women and children, and some of them were most inhumanly dealt with. Next day, as a 8uc}dng babe would have been thrown out of a boat on the waves, and when the mother at that sight did grieve, she had her breast cut off with a hanger.

   But, notwithstanding this surprise^ as provisions were so extremely wanting to the rest of the poor inhabitants, a number of active young men attempted to carry off these sowings, but not being fully prepared, were obliged towards night to lodge in the woods and coppices of Dunquinally, and in Ballybeg, where they were likewise surprised by said party, especially some young, unmarried men, who went by themselves to the coppices of a small Inch, in said place, where they were all killed. This Inch is ever since called Inchhanoganagh, signifying the inch where the young men were slain. About this time the governors of Ross, Nedeen, and Killorglen, &c. &c. &c. used all efforts to make incursions into O* Sullivan's Country, upon which he was obliged to divide his small army into different parties, to secure the different passes of Drung, Knocnagaintih, Ballaghbawn, &c. &c. a party whereof under the command of Captains Owen O' Sullivan and Brennan, were stationed from the hill of Knocnagaintih to the harbour of Poulnanarragh, and the river Curane, and they generally came to the camp at night, in the centre of said station. But as the aforesaid garrison always employed numerous spies, by whose means they were informed of the strength and position of the Irish army ; therefore, a powerful party marched in

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 153

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, in a wood called Easgah, close to Derreen, a massacre took place in 1652 or 1653. The people who died here were poor inhabitants of Ballybeg. They had withdrawn to Iveragh and Bordonine, but they left sowings behind in Ballybeg. When harvest came, they came back to cut and bring away those sowings. They brought their families with them. They set sentinels by day, and by night they went to shelter in the adjoining woods. The garrison at Nedeen discovered what they were doing. A party was sent out in boats by night, most of them from Captain Purefoy's company. They surprised the families in the wood. None were spared except a few women and children, and some of them were most inhumanly dealt with. The next day, a suckling babe was about to be thrown from a boat into the waves. When the mother grieved at that sight, her breast was cut off with a hanger. After this, provisions were so wanting that a number of active young men still attempted to carry off the sowings. They were not fully prepared, and toward night they lodged in the woods and coppices of Dunquinally and in Ballybeg. They were likewise surprised by the same party. Some young unmarried men had gone by themselves to the coppices of a small Inch, and there they were all killed. That Inch has ever since been called Inchhanoganagh, the Inch where the young men were slain.

7. Betrayal and killing of Captain Owen O'Sullivan at Glenmore

   Glanmore · valley · Kerry · 1652–1653

   The Irish camp at Glenmore was betrayed to the English by spies, resulting in a surprise night attack; Captain Owen O'Sullivan, fleeing on foot, was tricked into surrendering his sword and purse by a supposed friendly Irishman before being cut to pieces by the English party.

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   the begiiming of a night fi'om Killorglen, who met with some of these spies hy the way, who informed them that the Irish party came to camp late that evening, at a place called Glenmore, to which the English were guided, who before daybreak surprised the Irish asleep in their huts, and killed a good many before they could form a body, or recover their arms, and such as escaped their furj took re^ige in an adjacent wood; whereof was Captain Owen O' Sullivan, who having rode far that evenings before coming to the camp, lay in his boots and clothes all night ; he directing his course towards a large mountain, was soon overts^en by a small party of about four or five men. The first that came up to him was a county Kerry Irishman, who spoke to him, and desired him to accept of quarter and deliver up his sword and purse, which he promised to secure for him, and deliver him up safe to Captain Hasset, the commander of the English party. O* Sullivan replied he was glad to meet witn a friend, making him so kind an offer, and to know that Captain Hassett was the ofBcer commanding; he accordingly delivered up his sword and purse, which the other men immediately challenged to be distributed as common booty ; this the Irishman refused, thereupon the others fell on and cut Captain- O* Sullivan to pieces, to the CTeat concern of Captain Hasset, as he was acr quainted with him on occasion of the former treaties and meetings for peace, and was thankful to him for his ten* demess to some English prisoners.

   Many besides Capt. O' Sullivan, who carried arms, lost their Uves on that day ; amongst others was an ancient, decrepid gentleman, Mr. Owen O' Sullivan, of the family of Ballycama, who was met with in his devotions in a den or hut in one of the neighbouring mountains. All the cattle of the neighbourhood were driven to Killorglen ; this very much terrified the rest of the inhabitants of Iveragh and Bordonine, so that they took all opportxmity of procuring passes and protections, and by getting away by night, to come to the aforesaid lines of the Lane and Finihih.

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8. Terence Gallagher outwits the Scotchman for Sir Cahir's head

   River Finn · river · Donegal · 1608

   The Scotchman who killed Sir Cahir took shelter at Terence Gallagher's cabin near a ford of the river Finn; Terence discovered the severed head hidden in the plaid and stole away to claim the reward himself before the Scotchman awoke.

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   day, and at night took shelter in a cahin belonging to one Terence Gallagher, situated at one of the fords of the river Finn.' Here Ramsay sought a night's lodging, which Irishmen never refuse; and partaking of an oaten cake and some sweet milk, he went to rest with Sir Cahup's head under his own as a pillow. The Scotchman slept sound, and Terence was up at break of day. He saw blood oozing out through the plaid that served as his guest's pillow, and suspected all was not right; so slitting the tartan plaid, he saw the hair and head of a man. Slowly drawing it out, he recognized features well known to every man in Tyrconnell; they were Sir Cahit^s. Terence knew as well as any man that there was a price set on this very head — a price, abundant to make his fortune — a price, he now was resolved to try and gain. So off Terence started, and broad Tyrone was almost crossed by O' Gallagher, before the Scotchman awoke to resume his journey. The story is still told with triumph through the country, how the Irishman, without the treason, reaped the reward of Sir Cahir's death. This was the last of the Irish rebellions that took place before the plantation of Ulster.

   \^

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 12

9. The desperate defence at Bantry/Glengarriff

   Bantry · town · Cork · 1602

   O'Sullivan fought amid his own rocks, bogs and woods in defence of his cattle, his people's only subsistence, in one of the most desperately contested engagements of the Munster war. The Irish were driven from rock to rock and ridge to ridge until they scattered, losing all to the English spoilers.

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   Bantry, amidst his own rocks, bogs, and woods, fought in the face of his wife, children^ and people; the battle was for the defftac© of the cattle, their only subsistence— their all.. Through the whole Munster war, never was a field so desperately contested. From rock to rock, and ridge to ridge, the Irish suiFered the assault of the English; and ^till the weU-armed and fearless assailants carried one position after another, until the O'Sullivans gave way, and scattered over the hills, like sheep, leaving their all a prey to the spoiler.

   And now Tyrrel, finding the left of his position on Slievelc^er turned by Wilmot ; perceiving the game was up in Munster, and hopeless of farther Spanish aid, with the decision and despatch for which he was so notorious, retreated along the eastern parts of Kerry, through Limerick, Ormond, and Ely 0'Carroll> until he reached in safety, with aU his partisans, his own country. O' Sullivan still clung with craving hope to his native rocks: but winter coming on, famine stared him, and all belonging to him in the face, for Wilmot had wasted all Bear, Bantry, and the whole of Kerry — not a cow, garran, goat or sheep did he leave from

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 129

   As the companion tells it

   Coming through Bantry in Cork, you are passing ground where O'Sullivan fought in 1602, amid his own rocks, bogs and woods, in the face of his wife, children and people. The battle was for the defence of the cattle, their only subsistence, their all. Through the whole Munster war, never was a field so desperately contested. From rock to rock and ridge to ridge the Irish suffered the assault of the English, until the well-armed and fearless assailants carried one position after another, and the O'Sullivans gave way and scattered over the hills, like sheep, leaving their all a prey to the spoiler. Then Tyrrel, finding the left of his position on Slievelker turned by Wilmot, perceived the game was up in Munster. Hopeless of further Spanish aid, he retreated through Kerry, Limerick, Ormond and Ely O'Carroll until he reached his own country with all his partisans. O'Sullivan still clung with craving hope to his native rocks. But winter coming on, famine stared him in the face, for Wilmot had wasted all Bear, Bantry and the whole of Kerry. Not a cow, garran, goat or sheep did he leave.

10. Baltimore Harbour Wreck Deception by Black Gilly

    Baltimore · townland · Cork · 1539

    On a stormy night in 1539, Black Gilly O'Driscol found a distressed Portuguese wine ship near Baltimore harbour and offered to pilot it to safety in exchange for wine, luring the crew into a trap.

    Read the passage

    by sea with sach address and success. He and his natural son^ the dark Gillj Duf^ or black Gilbert, liyed in nght Milesian glory — ^what was gained by barbarian force was spent in profuse hospitality. The Ship Castle was the seat of their strength, and the storehouse of their plunder. There the pedlars came to purchase the soft goods and female drapery that were robbed or smuggled firom foreign vessels; here the inland gentry came to procure the pipes of wine and Cogniac brandy that were necessary to support the hospitality of their inland fortresses; and thus Sir Fineen under the walls of Dunalong kept a sort of fair. The produce of his adyentures on the ocean was exchanged for the cattle and com of the rich plains of Tipperary and Limerick. And thus in the curious combinations of his fortunes and character he possessed the attributes of a merchant, a mariner, a pirate, and a Milesian chieftain. All was fortunate and fair witb Sir Fineen and his dark son, until in the net which he laid privily for plunder was his own foot taken. On a stormy night, in 1539, as Black Gilly was coming in his ten-oared launch from looking along the line of shore, he saw a vessel in distress driving towards the entrance of Baltimore

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 87

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in 1539, Black Gilly O'Driscol, the natural son of Sir Fineen, lived what the old book calls Milesian glory. What was gained by barbarian force was spent in profuse hospitality. Ship Castle was the seat of their strength and the storehouse of their plunder. Pedlars came there to purchase soft goods and female drapery robbed or smuggled from foreign vessels. The inland gentry came to procure pipes of wine and Cogniac brandy for their inland fortresses. Sir Fineen kept a sort of fair under the walls of Dunalong, exchanging ocean plunder for cattle and corn of Tipperary and Limerick. He was merchant, mariner, pirate, and Milesian chieftain. All was fortunate until, in the net he laid privily for plunder, his own foot was taken. On a stormy night, Black Gilly was coming in his ten-oared launch from looking along the shore, and he saw a vessel in distress driving towards the entrance of Baltimore.

11. Death of a young pilgrim who fell from the gallery

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    About two in the morning a young man fell from one of the galleries in the Prison, was fatally injured, died the next day, and was controversially anointed with extreme unction by a priest after he was already dead.

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    flowed pro^iselj from every pore. About two o'clock in the morning an unhappy young man> either in a state of lethargic indifference, or under the influence of these sudden paroxysms, threw himself, or fell j&om one of the galleries, and was so shattered by the fall, that he died next day at twelve o'clock, and what was not much to the credit of the reverend gentry of the island, without the benefit of the clergy ; for I saw a priest with his stole and box of chrism finishing off his extreme unction when he was quite dead. I have always thought that act to be one of the most degrading to human reason, and impious in the sight of God, of any I ever wit- . nessed of a religious nature. The under jaw of the corpse hung down, his eyes were open, and stared with the wild glassy look of death, his nostrils were distended and filled with mucus, his hair was on end, and about his brows and the upper part of his face lay the froth of the perspiration which exuded in the agonies of death. There was the priest, rubbing his oil over the dead body of this victim of superstition, confident that such an application would benefit his soul before the awful tribunal of eternal justice.

    152 CURE FOR DROWSINESS.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 59

12. Failed fishing town of Rutland buried by sand

    Rutland Island or Inishmacadurn · townland · Donegal · 1799

    About forty years earlier, £30,000 was spent by government and the Marquess of Conyngham to build a fishing town at Rutland in the Rosses; the year after completion the herrings deserted the coast and the sands began to blow, eventually burying the multi-storey buildings up to their roofs.

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    At Rutland, in that district of Donegal called the Rosses, there was expended about forty years ago the sum of j£d0,000, which expenditure was defrayed, partly by goTeraraent, and partly by the landlord, the Marquess of Conyngham, in order to create a town and fishing establishment on a coast that teemed with herrings. It is a curious fact, that the year after these buildings were erected and all die expense incurred, the herrings deserted the coast; and what is equally surprising — ^the saods began to blow, and now large ranges of lofty buildings three or four stories high, are covered on the sea^side with sand — you can walk up to the ridge-polls of the roof.

    AN IRISH SANB 8TORM. 15

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13. Father Dominick Collins and the Miraculous Leap

    Priest's Leap · pass · Kerry

    According to local tradition, the priest of the leap legend was Father Dominick Collins, who had been raising the country for O'Sullivan Beare's defence of Dunboy castle when he was pursued by English scouts and treacherous kerns. Cornered on the mountain, he prayed to the Virgin and leapt miraculously across the valley to land on the rock near Bantry.

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    in one minute more, he wonld have been pinioned, and sent to tlie Lord Carew to gorge the ravens as he hung from the barbican of Dunemarc castle. But at the very instant that the hand of a kern was stretched out to grasp his shoulder, Dominick put up a prayer to the Virgin, and then, strong in £uth, he made the spring from the topmost crag of the mountain: off he went, sailing like an eagle down the valley — soaring over lake, and hill, and river — ^floating on faith, until he pounced on. that rock which stands there, an incontestible witness of the truth of the transaction."

    Leaving the priest's rock within half a mile, we came to a turbulent stream. " Come," says my intelligent companion, " it is worth your while to alight here. I can show you what is worth your notice." Accordingly we proceeded some way along the stream, and arrived at a very fine waterfall. I have seen few finer ; it is higher than the fall at Ballisadare, near Sligo, or the Salmon-leap at Leixlip. The river falls more than twenty feet, and plunges at once into the sea. It tumbles into the ocean, like a turbulent youth, in the midst of all his hot and angry passions, into eternity. This river Moyallah, like every streanj

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14. Fin M'Coul Slays the Monster and Reddens the Lake

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Fin M'Coul discovered the monster's vulnerable mole, leapt into its mouth, freed captives from its stomach, and cut it open, causing its blood to stream into the lake and dye all its waters red, giving Lough Derg its name.

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    below the region of the heart; and to work he fell with his short sword, and in a little space of time he (^ned an orifice about the size of a coach-house door in the monster's side, who, during the operation, no doubt, felt yery alarming symptoms of cholera morbus; moreover, it is not to be supposed that Fin and his fellow-prisoners were slow. at making their exit from "durance vile;" and well it may be said, that such a jail delivery was not since the evacuation of the Trojan horse. And thus Fin not only released many captives, but he spoiled the appetite altogether of the "blatant beast" who lay along bellowing, and its abominable blood streaming from its open side, and rushing like a mountain torrent into the lake, all whose waters were thereby dyed red; and so along the shore it lay, in purga<- torial agony, suffering all the pains due to its former voraciousness, until St. Patrick came; and he, in order to show unto the obstinate Pagans what power was committed unto a Christian saint, commanded the monster to arise and proceed to its appointed place at the bottom of the lough,, where it lies to this day, living, and at times roaring, but for ever restrained by Patrick's power from coming ashore to

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 68

15. Sir Cahir O'Doherty's capture of Culmore Fort

    near Culmore · town · Derry

    Sir Cahir O'Doherty pretended friendship with the English and Captain Hart, Governor of Culmore, then treacherously seized the fort by forcing Hart's wife to trick the sentry into admitting soldiers, resulting in the massacre of the garrison.

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    live.** The woman, terrified, submitted to the undertaking, she went with the rebels to the castle that night, told the sentry that the Captain, her husband, had broken his leg, and the man without scruple admitted her and her party into the place. The consequence was the murder of the whole garrison. Hart's life was saved, but he was utterly ruined. — See Cox*8 Hibemi^ Anglicana, vol. ii. p. 14.

    DOtJNE ROCK. 23

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    You are near Culmore, outside Derry, where Sir Cahir O'Doherty took Culmore Fort by treachery. He forced Captain Hart's wife to go to the castle at night and tell the sentry her husband had broken his leg. The sentry let her and the rebels in. The whole garrison was murdered. Hart's life was spared, but he was utterly ruined.

16. The Priest Lays the Ghost in the Red Sea

    near Fanad · locality · Donegal

    Jerry M'Cullum, a Protestant, sought help from Father Phelim the priest after a freemason's exorcism attempt failed comically; the priest agreed to lay the ghost only if Jerry and his family converted to Catholicism, and after the ritual with holy water, candles and bell, the haunting ceased.

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    " Jerry swore and crossed himself willingly; and that very night the priest proceeded in his vestments, and with his breriary and his bell, and a bottle of Holy wather, and the clerk of the chapel bearing two boly candles. He marched up and down the house; he read all the sacred Latin prayers ; he challenged and he chid the ghost; he commanded it with a strong voice to return to its own place, for the work was done, and there was no more occasion for it to walk under the moon; and then the holy man closed his book, and ordered the holy wather to be sprinkled, the bell was rung, the blessed candles were put out; and from that day to this, Jerry's house is quiet, and he and all his seed and breed are good Catholics.'*

    Amy told me this with much feeling ; and, in the

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 36

17. Waking to the storm and washing in the lake at night

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1839

    A man rang a hand-bell crying pilgrims to wake for the Prison, after which they washed in the storm-tossed lake by dim moonlight, an eerie scene the narrator found strangely sublime.

    Read the passage

    crying out in a low, supernntoral growl, which could be heard double the distance of the loudest shout — ' waken up, waken up, and come to prison.' The words were no sooner out of his mouth, than there was a sudden start, and a general scramble in the dark for our respective garments. When we got dressed, we proceeded* to the waters of the lake, in which we washed our face and hands, repeating prayers during the ablution. This to me was the most impressive and agreeable part of the whole stati(m. The liight, while we were in bed, or rather in torture, had become quite stormy, and the waves of the lake beat against the shore with the violence of an agitated sea. There was just sufficient moon to make the 'darkness visible,' and to show the black clouds drifting with rapid confusion, in broken masses, over our heads. This, joined to the tossing of the billows against the shore — the dark silent groups that came,^ like shadows, stooping for a moment over the surface of the waters, and retreating again in a manner which the severity of the night rendered necessarily quick, raising thereby in the mind the idea of gliding spirits — then the pre-conceived desolation of the surrounding scenery — the

    146 THK PRISON.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 56

18. A day of barefoot penance on scorching stones

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    The pilgrim recounts spending most of a July day walking the stone circuits with flayed feet on stones hot enough to broil a beefsteak, followed by a meager meal of oat bannock and lukewarm lake water.

    Read the passage

    are to be repeated during the circuit, though each circuit is, in fact, making the grand tour of the island i but I never shall forget that I was the best part of a July day at it, when the soles of my feet were flayed, and the stones hot enough to broil a beef-steak ! When the first day's station was over, is it necessary to say that a little rest would have been agreeable ? But no — this would not suit the policy of the place : here it may be truly said that there; is no rest for the wicked. The only luxury allowed me was the privilege of feasting upon one of my cakes (having not tasted food that blessed day until then) — ^upon one of my cakes, I say, and a copious supply of the water of the lake, which, to render the repast more stomachable, was made lukewarm ! This was to keep my spirits up after the delicate day's labour I had gone through, and to eheer me against the pleasant prospect of a hard night's praying without sleep, which lay in the backr ground ! But when I saw every one at his refreshing meal with a good, thick, substantial bannock^ and then looked at the immateriality of my own, I could not help reverting to the woman who made them for me, with a degree of vivacity not altogether in unison

    144 A FRAUD.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 55

19. The Haunting of Jerry M'Cullum's Tan-Yard

    near Fanad · locality · Donegal

    After old M'Cullum's death, his ghost haunted his son Jerry's farm and tan-yard in Fannat, terrifying servants, spoiling milk, rotting hides, and driving away dogs, though it spared the piper Tim who played the old man's favourite tunes.

    Read the passage

    *' At another time, as the young master was sitting over a glass of punch: with his friends, all at once, the press, the cupboard, the clock, and all the pewter, glass, and chany, set about tumbling and tossing around them, and trouble-the-house was seen with a carious and devilish grin, throwing soot and dust in the eyes and mouth of the astonished guests. He was the most mischievous ghost that ever came out of Porgathory : not a man could come about the house after nightfall without having his head broke; the dogs ran away out of the tan-yard; the hides rotted in the pits; the farm ran to weeds and neglect, all were at sixes and sevens; and still the ould ghost was as vexatious and rumbuxious as ever. The only person he would let alone was Tim the piper. Tim had often played CooUn, and tiie j^f Polth(^e, for the ould master, just when he was in a passion; and now Tim came, and even aft;er sunset he ventured to

    94 SPARBS A PIPSR.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 35

20. Cuneen Miul Releases the Worm Into the Lake

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Reckless Cuneen Miul smashed the Hag's thigh bone open, releasing the red worm, and flung it into the lake at Lough Derg, whereupon it immediately transformed into an enormous, destructive monster that terrorized the countryside.

    Read the passage

    Such a personage was Guneen Mini; and therefore smashing the Hag's thi^h-bone across with his hunting spear, out without any doubt, crawled forth a long hairy worm, that writhed and wriggled about as if looking for Water; whereupon Cuneen Miul, all reckless of consequence, took the worm upon the point of his spear, and giving it a sling, cried, ' There is water enough for you,' and he pitched it into the middle of yonder lough. My dear sir, in an instant of time, and with the rapidity of enchantment, there arose out of the bosom of the lough an enormous and turbulent beast, of such magnitude and destructiveness, that the Fions with all iheir valour, were obliged to hide themselves from its fary; and then this prodigy ranged over the whole country, destroying man and beast — swallowing hundreds at a mouthful, whenever he unclasped his engulphing jaws.

    Fin M^Coul and all his merry men were in the utmost dismay at this extraordinary event; and as force and valour were quite ine£fectual against such a murderous monster. Fin had recourse to his wits, and as his custom was, he began to chew his thumb; and he had not long continued this oracular operation, until a spirit of wisdom came over him, and he was

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 66

21. The Blacksmith's Daughter and the Vow to Father Martin O'Cahan

    Donegal · town · Donegal

    A Protestant blacksmith's children repeatedly died in infancy of convulsions until his wife vowed to Father Martin O'Cahan, a priest famed for curing the falling-sickness, that if their daughter Bessy survived she would be raised Catholic, a vow honoured ever after.

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    Tulsioiu. So the time came roand fiur Bessy to be bom— for wif<^ please joor ReTeience, in these matters was as sure as a smirdial'-4ULd Bessy was a sweet child, and it went to our hearts that she should go away from us like the rest: so one morning, after much ado with my conscience, I told Mary to go off to the priest. Now Father Martin, to say ihe least of him« was indeed a pains-taking and knowledgeable man; and, though I ne^er did sit under his knee, yet, to give him his due, I erer will think that neither parson nor Presbyterian minister could come up to him in riding about making the people good ; and he had as soft a tongue and as smart a whip as you erer saw, always ready to permtade his iock to do their doty. So off Mary went, and Father Martin received her very tenderly; but, with all that, he pronounced it in^ssible that he could ev^ saye the child unless a solemn vow was made on the holy Bible, that if he cured the child it should be reared a Catholic, for ever after sent to. mass, and never, on any account, read a Protestant book. While the priest was thus speaking poor little Bessy looked op in her mother's &ee, and it smiled so sweetly, thai she could not resist making the vow, which she and I

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 38

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Donegal, there is a story set here about a blacksmith and his wife Mary. They were Protestant, and their children kept dying in infancy of convulsions. When the time came round for Bessy to be born, she was a sweet child, and it went to their hearts that she should go away from them like the rest. So one morning, after much ado with his conscience, the blacksmith told Mary to go off to the priest. Father Martin O'Cahan was a pains-taking and knowledgeable man. The blacksmith never did sit under his knee, yet he always thought that neither parson nor Presbyterian minister could come up to him in riding about making the people good. He had as soft a tongue and as smart a whip as you ever saw, always ready to persuade his flock to do their duty. Off Mary went, and Father Martin received her very tenderly. But he pronounced it impossible that he could save the child unless a solemn vow was made on the holy Bible, that if he cured the child it should be reared a Catholic, sent to mass, and never on any account read a Protestant book. While the priest was speaking, poor little Bessy looked up in her mother's face and smiled so sweetly that she could not resist making the vow.

22. A fraudulent bannock and a crowded truckle bed

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    The narrator describes being cheated of oatmeal by the woman who baked his bannock, then spending a wretched night crammed in a truckle bed with seven others including a man with a crutch, tormented by insects.

    Read the passage

    with the charity of a Christian. The knayish creature defrauded me of one half of the oatmeal, although I had purchased it myself in Petigo for the occasion; being determined, that as I was only to get two meals in the three days, they should be such as a person could fast upon. Never was there a man more bitterly disappointed; for they were not thicker than crown pieces, and I searched for them in my mouth to no purpose — ^the only thing like substance I could feel there was the warm water. At last night came; but here to describe the horrors of what I suffered I hold myself utterly inadequate. I was wedged in a truckle bed with seven others, one of whom was a Scotch Papist — ^another a man with a shrunk leg, who wore a crutch — ^all afflicted with that disease which northern men that feed on oatmeal are liable to; and then the swarms that fell upon my poor young skin, and probed, and stung, and fed on me ! it was pressure and persecution almost insupportable, and yet such was my fatigue, that sleep even here began to weigh down my eye-lids.

    '' I was just on the point of enjoying a httle rest, when a man ringing a large hand-bell came round.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 55

23. Demolition of St. Patrick's Bed and Relics

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1632

    Sir William Stuart ordered the walls, works, foundations and vaults of the purgatory island rooted up, along with the place called St. Patrick's bed and the stone he knelt on, all thrown into the lough, and bound the island's owner James M'Grath to prevent future entry by religious orders.

    Read the passage

    he ordered to be rooted up, also the place called St. Patrick's bed, and the stone on which he knelt; these and all other superstitious relics he ordered to be thrown into the lough, and he made James M'Grath, the owner of the island, to enter into recognizances that he should not in future permit the entrance of Jesuits, friars, nuns, or any other superstitious order of Popery to enter therein.

    Having thus given the modem and ancient state of this purgatory, it is time to think of leaving it; and, I confess, I prepared to turn my back on this stronghold of superstition without a desire ever again to visit it. I considered that I was withdrawing myself from the exhibition of a stationary satire upon human reason, where the craft of the cunning had made a successAil experiment on the extreme credulity of uneducated man.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 61

24. Barefoot circuit of the chapel over spiked stone pavement

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    The pilgrim describes commencing the station by circling a large chapel from east to west over a pavement of sharp stone spikes, causing intense pain while reciting prayers amid a jostling crowd.

    Read the passage

    stations, lacerated as my feet were after so long a journey, so that I had not a moment to rest. Think, therefore, what I must have suffered, on surrounding a large chapel, in the direction of from east to west, along a pavement of stone spikes, every one of them making its way along my nerves and musdes to my xmfortunate hrain. I was absolutely stupid and dizzy with the pain, the praying, the jostling, the elbowing, the scrambling and the uncomfortable penitential whining of the whole crowd. I knew not what I was about, but went through the forms in the same mechanical dead spirit which pervaded all present. As for that solemn, humble, and heartfelt sense of God's presence, which Christian prayer demands, its existence In the mind would not only be a moral, but a physical impossibility in Lough Dearg. Salvation as offered in the word of God, and the simple unencumbered views of man's fallen nafure, and of God's mercy in enabling him by faith in Christ to raise himself from his natural state of sin, do not belong to the place. If these doctrines were known, salvation would not be made, as in the present instance, to depend on locaUty.

    " When I commenced my station, I started from

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 54

25. Battle at Ballinskelligs and naming of the English Garden

    Ballinskelligs · townland · Kerry · 1652

    English troops landed at Ballinskelligs and Poulnanurragh, raiding cattle and booty, before being ambushed by Irish forces under Captain Owen O'Sullivan in a fierce battle with pikes and broadswords. The site of the slaughter was ever after called the English Garden and Strand.

    Read the passage

    Action, and about as many wounded, Amongst "whom was their courageous commander, much lamented by his party, as he was unable to serve afterwards. The field of battle and the strand, ever since have gone by the name of the English Garden and Strand. The English government having got an account of this action, a fort was erected in the Island of Valentia in Iveraiagh, and another at Nedeen, in Glanerough, which were furnished with strong English garrisons, in order to suppress O* Sullivan.

    Meantime the Earl of Inchiquin, as also Lord Kerry, and other true friends to O* Sullivan, used their best interest and best offices, for peace and good conditions for him, and thereby a cessation of arms was agreed on, so that no hostilities on either side were committed for three years ; but the overtures at last proved abortive, as O* Sullivan had no other offers made him but some thousand acres, to which he would not agree, or for anything less than his estates, and those of his adherents. Instead of which the governor of the county had strict orders to take all opportunities of invading Ms small district ; to which purpose Captain Gibbons, governor of Nedeen, furnishing himself as privately as possible with many boats, embarked with about two hundred men from his fort. O* Sullivan being apprised of this invasion, collected his small party near Glenbeagh, and divided them into three divisions — one hundred led by himself towards Ballinaskelligs — another by an experienced officer, towards Sneem, and three companies by Captain Owen O* Sullivan of Capananoss, and Captain Brennan, (who had been in the action at Ballinaskelligs,) towards the harbour of Poulnanarragh. Governor Gibbons landed in the night before him, and marched with nine-score men towards the river Curane. But, as most of the inhabitants had some notice of his landing, he did not meet with many of them ; but next morning he drove all the cattle of the neighbourhood, and took all the booty he could get car* riage for, to the banks of the harbour. At which time the Irish party arrived at a hill above the fort, near a church called Crocane ; whereupon the English shouted, and challenged for battle, and drew themselves up in

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

26. Carriganass Castle and the massacre of Wilmot's detachment

    Carriganass · townland · Cork

    Otway describes Carriganass Castle on the river Ouvane, once a stronghold of the O'Sullivans, where Donnelly son of Sullivan More treacherously invited a detachment of Sir Charles Wilmot's soldiers under peace terms and had them butchered by night during the Elizabethan wars.

    Read the passage

    the viciiiity of Bantiy» haying retraced my steps through the pass of Cammeagh> and passed the castle and fertified enclosure of Carriganass on the river OuYane, which was one of the last holds of the O'SuUiyans, in the wars of Elizabeth. It was into this fortress that Donnelly son of Sullivan More, after he had made his peace with the president, and accepted the queen's protection, enticed a detachment of Sir Charles Wilmot's. He oiFered the Englishmen hospitality, and, on the faith of treaty^ the detachment entered his castle ; in the night they were most cruelly butchered by " this inhuman perjured rebel," as the old historian rightly calls him.

    And now I request my reader to suppose me on the road from Bantry to Glengariff, passing Dunemarc, and along the shore of the bay for four miles;

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 118

27. Death of Owen M'Egan near Bandon

    Bandon · town · Cork

    The apostolic vicar Owen M'Egan was defeated and killed by Captain Taaffe near Bandon; he was noted for his zealotry, having Irish Catholics who fought for the queen confessed, absolved, and then hanged.

    Read the passage

    • The war in those disastrous days was carried on with peculiar animosity and rancour ; religious hatred, party feuds, and national enmities combined to barb and poison the weapons of this warfare. That valiant apostolic vicar, Owen M<£gan who was defeated and killed by Captain Taaffe near Bandon, in his zeal never pardoned an Irishman, though a Papist, who fought for the queen ; but as soon as any such were taken, he had them confessed, absolved, and then hanged.

    322 O'SULLIVAK FAMILY.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 128

28. Molly's Lavish Wake and Funeral

    near Lough Salt · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Despite his frugality over the doctor's fee, Dondy O'Donnell spent fourteen pounds fifteen shillings on his wife Molly's funeral, with fifteen hundred and eighty glasses of proof spirits drunk before the corpse left the house, and a large collection given to the priest.

    Read the passage

    occasion; and^ though not a drop stronger than water was tasted at the wake, there were fifteen hundred and eighty glasses of real j>roof pattern decently drank hefore the corpse left the house; and Dondy, though he was careftd about half-a-crown, and why shouldn't he? expended fourteen pounds fifteen shillings on doing the genteel thing at Molly's funeral.

    The Presbyterians in this district are, I may say, a contrast in characteristics to the Romanists: they are as cautious and cold as the others are apparently confiding and sanguine. To a stranger the Presbyterian is not generally a prepossessing companion — he is wondrous inquisitive, and most of his questions are found to originate from an attention to his own advantage. And, speaking generally, it may be said that worldliness, and not religion, gives the tone to the conversation and character. It is also to be noticed, and at the same time deplored, that their clergy have been obliged, from the scantiness of their salaries, to secularize themselves, and add the concerns of farming to the duties of their clerical callings, consequently there cannot be that attention to the catechetical instruction of the young, nor

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 37

29. Plague and ruin among the Mahonys of Castle-island

    Castle Island · townland · Cork

    After plundering the wrecked African ship's gold and goods, the Mahonys of Castle-island squandered their sudden wealth on drink and dancing until fever swept through and killed them off, leaving only one old man alive.

    Read the passage

    '' But what good did aU the gold do the Mahonys?" " Arra, they were worse off than their neighbours — ^what came over the devil's back went under his belly — ^they sold the gold to pedlars and shopkeepers in Baltimore and Skibbereen, they bought tobacco by the roU, and whiskey by the hogshead, they brought a piper from Bantry, and a fiddler from Clonakilty; they Uved as well as a priest at a station every day from'' Saturday to Thursday, eating bacon, swilling whiskey, dancing, and running lewdly to the devil, until, at last, the fever came amongst them — they died like sheep of the red water. Oh ! it lyas a bad day for the Mabonys that the neger's gold came amongst them — ^the church-yard has them all now except an old man, who has no son to carry him to the grave; what good did the neger's gold do him, the lone beggarman V*

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 77

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Castle Island, the Mahonys once came into sudden wealth from the gold and goods of a wrecked African ship. They sold the gold to pedlars and shopkeepers in Baltimore and Skibbereen, bought tobacco by the roll and whiskey by the hogshead, and brought a piper from Bantry and a fiddler from Clonakilty. They lived it up every day from Saturday to Thursday, eating bacon, swilling whiskey, dancing, and, as the old saying has it, "running lewdly to the devil." Then the fever came among them, and they died like sheep of the red water. The churchyard has them all now, except one old man, a lone beggarman with no son to carry him to the grave. The gold that came from the sea brought them nothing but ruin.

30. State Order to Destroy the Purgatory Island (1632)

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1632

    In 1632 the state ordered Sir James Balfour and Sir William Stuart to seize the island of Purgatory at Lough Derg for the King's use, finding an abbot, forty friars, and 450 pilgrims paying eight pence each for admission.

    Read the passage

    concern for friars not to be kept a going, and therefore^ in 1632^ we find that the superstitions of the place had arisen to such a shameftil height, that the state ordered Sir James Balfour and Sir William Stuart, to seize unto his Majesty's use, this island of Purgatory, and accordingly we find that Sir William proceeds to the island, and reports that he found an abbot and forty friars, and that there was a daily resort of four hundred and fifty pilgrims, who paid eight pence each for admission to the island.

    Sir William further informs the Privy Council, that in order to hinder the seduced people from going any longer to this stronghold of Papistry, and wholly to take away the abuse hereafter, he had directed the whole to be defaced and utterly demolished; therefore the walls, works, foundations^ vaults, &c.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 60

31. The Circular Lake and Denis O'Donohoe's Fairy Beer

    Bear · electoral division · Cork

    A guide told the tale of a perfectly circular lake among the Bear mountains that was once full of beer, after Denis O'Donohoe met the king of the fairies (the good people) at a meadow near his valley home and was rewarded with the secret of brewing enchanted beer from the lake water using a heath plant once known to the Danes.

    Read the passage

    every day in the year. High or low, or deep in the recesses of the valley, or sparkling on the hill side, the higher you ascend the more you see them ; and the varieties of their forms, positions, and accompa-^ niments give a wonderful interest to this, otherwise toilsome^ march into Kerry. If I were a young man, and had health and time, how I should like to ramble from valley to valley, and from lake to lake, filling my mind with the magnificent picture this Alpine territory presented, and my soul with the higher and more adoring conceptions of the Almighty God, "who, by his strength, setteth fast these mountains/* To the left of our road, as we wound up the long i^cent^ of hill rising over hill, I was shown a lake, one of the loveliest we had yet seen — ^perfectly circular, it lay in the bosom of a chain of peaked and precipitous hills — ^it reposed within the circle of their protecting arms, and sparkled like a lookingglass in the sun. " Once upon a time," said one of the men who formed my escort from Glengariff, " that lake there beyond was full of as good beer as ever was brewed in Cork town. In good old Catholic times long ago, ere Protestants, saring your presence, eame into our land, Denis O'Donohoe lived in a

    360 DENIS MAHONY*S Lt7CR.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 143

32. The Death of the Hag with the Finger

    Donegal · town · Donegal

    Fin M'Coul's party surprised the Hag with the Finger and her giant son on a hill in East Munster where all Ireland's herbs grew; Fin killed her with a silver arrow while the giant carried her fleeing body, unaware she was dead, until he discarded her remains on a hill in Donegal.

    Read the passage

    ba4, bitter or sour, sweet or stinking, growing, in all Ireland^ tliat does not also grow on that little hill; and there the Hag with the Finger was a culling of simples; and she always carried the silver pot, in which she boiled her poison. Now just as she was in t^e midst of this bad work up came Fin and his heroes, and surprised the mother and son; and Gal M'Momi, who was foremost, let fly his arrow at the wicked ones: but it missed its aim, and only upset the pot, and spilt the poison ; and then it was that throwing the old mother over his shoulders, the giant made o£f as hard as possible through the bogs and woods; but just as she lay dangling at his back. Fin M'Coul let fly a silver arrow which pierced her heart, and her bad soul flew o£f to hell, its proper place. But the stupid giant, (for giants, they say, are always heavy-headed,) perceived not that his mother was struck; and so onwards he went, never looking behind him, going as fast as ogres do, until he came to the mountains of Donegal; and there, stopping to take rest, and looking behind him, he found nothing remaining of his mother but her spindle shanks, her back bone and arms, not forgetting the long finger — ^all

    168 THE DWARF AND CUNEEN MIUL. .

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 65

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Donegal, you are near where the giant son of the Hag with the Finger finally stopped running. The story goes that on a hill in East Munster where every herb in Ireland grew, the Hag was gathering simples and boiling poison in her silver pot. Fin M'Coul and his heroes surprised her and her giant son. Gal M'Morn let fly an arrow but missed, only upsetting the pot and spilling the poison. The giant threw his old mother over his shoulders and ran hard through bogs and woods. But Fin M'Coul shot a silver arrow that pierced her heart, and her bad soul flew off to hell. The giant never noticed. They say giants are always heavy-headed, and he ran on, never looking behind him, until he reached the mountains of Donegal. There he stopped to rest, looked behind him, and found nothing left of his mother but her spindle shanks, her backbone and arms, and the long finger.

33. The Ferry Contract and Profits of Pilgrimage at Lough Derg

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The lake and islands belonged to Colonel L., a relation of the Duke of Wellington, who leased the island ferry to contractors paying him £260 a year; ferrymen charged pilgrims five pence each, and with an estimated 13,000 pilgrims annually, priests also profited substantially from station fees.

    Read the passage

    Duke of Wellington; and that this gentleman, as landlord, had leased the ferry of the island to certain persons who had contracted to pay him £260 a year; and to make up this sum, and obtain a suitable income for themselves, the ferrymen charged each pilgrim five pence. Therefore, supposing that the contractors make cent, per cent, by their contract, which it may be supposed they do, the number of pilgrims to this island may be estimated at 13,000; and as my little guide afterwards told me, (although the cunning old clerk took ,care to avoid it,) that each pilgrim paid the priest ^m Is. 8d. to 2s. 6d., therefore we may suppose that the profit to the prior of Lough Derg and his priests was no small sum. It is curious here to remark, that this vejy landlord I have just spoken of, the proprietor in fee of purgatory, should have been so persecuted by the priests at the late election, that he who had represented for seven successive parliaments a northern county, was actually turned out in spite of his high character, great connections, and numerous friends. Really this bespeaks great forbearance on his part; another more

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 49

34. Vitrified Fort Mistaken for a Glass-House

    Cavan · town · Cavan

    On a mountain in Cavan, the only vitrified fort observed in Ireland, the author sent a specimen of vitrified material and an account of the fort to the Royal Irish Academy. A member there wrongly claimed it was the ruin of an old glass manufactory, despite the impracticality of building a glass-house atop a high hill in Ulster.

    Read the passage

    one of the mountains of Cavan, the only one that has heen observed in Ireland. I sent up a specimen of the vitrified material to the Royal Irish Academy, and also an account of the fort. A learned Theban of that society said that my specimen must have come from a glass-house, and he gravely maintained that my fort was the ruin of an old manufactory of glass, although others present objected to his solution, hinting that it was rather an improbable place to erect a glasshouse on one of the highest hills in Ulster. In the same way, I suppose that some philosopher will say that my mountain sarcophagi are only places for burning kelp, never considering that to drag seaweed up to the top of a mountain, two miles, would not prove a very light labour. I have often desired to know whether such things are to be met with in other parts of Ireland, or whether any one can assign a cause for their construction.*

    In returning back to the road from these gigantic

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 34

35. Dondy O'Donnell's Wife and the Doctor's Fee

    near Lough Salt · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Dondy O'Donnell, a wealthy but illiterate farmer under Lough Salt with vast flocks and herds, haggled with a doctor over a crown fee to see his dying wife Molly, eventually agreeing to pay before she died the following night.

    Read the passage

    Dondy O'DonneU was a mug farmer aa any in Donegnl; his cattle covered half the hills under Lough Salt^ and though he could neither read nor write, he knew how to count his own guineas; and you i*ould scarcely enter under his cabin door from a crowd of sheep, goats, calves, pigs, geese, turkeys, and cocks, that bleated, moaned, grunted, and <<aokled around you. And one day Dond/s wife fell sick, and was like to die, and Dondy, a$ he ought to be, was sad and sorry that his old mistress should be in the way of leaving him alone. So Dondy, knowing that the Doctor was to pass the road on his way to the sea-shore, watched all day, and towards evening he spied the physician, and accosted him kindly, requesting him to come across to his cabin, and see his wife who was sorely sick.

    " Well, and Dondy, you are a snug man, and, therefore, if I go," says the Doctor, "you must pay me."

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 36

36. John Barry of Buttevant refuses shelter and attacks the retreat

    Buttevant · townland · Cork · 1602

    John Barry of Buttevant, described as neither wholly English nor Irish, refused to give O'Sullivan's retreating party welcome at his castle, instead turning his cannon on them and sending men to harass and prey upon the fugitives.

    Read the passage

    whose blood was bad becaiue there was the EngHsb drop in it — a false Irishman because a mixed mon^wl — he, instead of giving them wdcome at Idseami, turned^ churl, as he was, the gtans of his eastle on them, and moreover sent out all his men on garrans to press and prey on them. Still onward thej went, leaving to the left the Ballyhoora mountains. They descended into the plains of Limerick. Here they found, for a few days, food for themselves, and pas* ture for their horses. And then northward they rode, untiL passing under the Galtee chain, they reached the rich valley of the Snir. O'Sullivn&^nd (yConnor trusted that here, in this very fertile vale, which the Catholic church had appropriated te heft*-* self, and aimidst the opulent abbeys that raised their cloistered fronts along its beautiftd stieam, they wduld have been i^freshed. Thus they st<^ped at Athassel; but the Saxon spoiler had driven the peaceful dwellers from this splendid monument of the piety of De Burgo, the Red Earl,- and tihey passed on to the rock of CasheL But here again was no rest for the hoofs of their horses — ^fbr the 'L<^d President had advised, by his scouts, the sheriff of the cross in the palatinate of Tipperary, that traitors

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 131

37. O'Sullivan More retreats to Iveragh, Dunkerron and Glanerought

    Iveragh · barony · Kerry · 1651–1652

    After the defeat, Daniel O'Sullivan More, having lost much of his regiment, marched to the baronies of Iveragh, Dunkerron and Glanerought in Kerry, hoping the difficult terrain would allow him to hold out until reinforced.

    Read the passage

    prophecy, being in the neighbourhood, sent for him, and desired to have his opinion as to who would gain the viotory on the followii^ day. On this occasion the gifted man was much daunted, which the earl observing, d^ired him freely to express his thoughts, and that whatever he should declare, he should not be in the least molested. On which the man pronounced that the Irish would maintain the field with credit, but that the English would be totally defeated. Whereupon the earl answered that he was right, for that he was an Irishman, an 0*Brien, and, therefore, a Milesian; but that Count Taafe, the commander of the Irish, was an Englishman by extraction. The event was as the earl had interpreted ;. for Taafe, with his army, after a desperate stn:^;gle, wasi totally defeated. Soon after which battle, the aforesaid Daniel McCarthy, Terence 0*Brieni and many others submitted to much more moderate conditions than they would before have got. But Daniel O' Sullivan More^. who had lost a good many of his regiment and name, marched to that part of the county of Kerry called the baronies of Iverka, Dunkerrin, and Glanerough, expecting, by the bad passes and roads thereunto leading, that he would maintiun said districts till further supplied and relieved. By this time the aforesaid two colonels, undea to O* Sullivan More, seeing no farther prospect of sue* cess, declined that service, and went to France ; and soon after the Earl of Inchiquin, having a tenderness and concern for O' Sullivan More, sent to him, earned j desiring him to submit, and that he would use his best endeavours with the government to get him g^d condition. 0* Sullivan, after returning his lordship thanks for his good inclinations, replied, that if he had his estates, and those of such of his countrymen who were with him, granted to him and them, he would submit, but not otherwise. The said earl having made a report of thia negociation, it was not approved of; but, on the contrary, commands were issued that 0'Sullivan*s territory should be invaded by land and sea ; and, in order to bring O* Sullivan speedily to submission, a strong partv of efFective men was embarked on board of three or four shipa

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 150

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into the barony of Iveragh in Kerry, the country that Daniel O'Sullivan More counted on to save him in 1651. After a battle where Count Taafe's army was totally defeated in a desperate struggle, many Irish leaders submitted on moderate terms. Daniel McCarthy and Terence O'Brien were among them. But O'Sullivan More would not. He had lost a good many of his regiment, and he marched west into this country, into the baronies of Iveragh, Dunkerron and Glanerought, expecting that the bad passes and roads leading there would let him hold these districts until supplied and relieved. His hope did not last. Two colonels under his command, seeing no further prospect of success, declined that service and went to France. Then the Earl of Inchiquin, who had a tenderness and concern for O'Sullivan More, sent word urging him to submit, promising to use his best endeavours with the government to get him good conditions. O'Sullivan More returned thanks for the earl's good inclinations, but gave his answer. If he had his estates, and those of his countrymen who were with him, granted to him and to them, he would submit. But not otherwise. The negotiation was reported and not approved. Commands were issued that O'Sullivan's territory should be invaded by land and sea, and a strong party of effective men was embarked on board three or four ships to bring him speedily to submission.

38. The Fairy King's Reward: Beer From the Lake

    Bear · electoral division · Cork

    The fairy king led Denis O'Donohoe to gather a rare heath plant and whisk it in the lake water, transforming it into beer, in payment for Denis's hospitality of goat's whey and his promise not to tell the priest.

    Read the passage

    So off they set, and came to yonder pretty lake ; " Take now, Denis, a wisp of that plant you have in your hand, and whisk it well in the water of this lake, and wait a bit, and you will see what will happen." So Denis did as he was bid, and after waiting and chatting a while with the fairy, he was bid to go, and in the palm of his hand to take a sup of the water. So down he went, and lifting what he could take up in the holbw of his fist, he cried,

    * The Danes after their conquest of Ireland imposed a heavy tribute on the Irish ; every master of a family was obliged to pay in an ounce of gold yearly, and if through misfortune or poverty he was unable to furnish his contribution, he was punished with the loss of his nose. This tribute was therefore called the Nose Rent. Can it in this way be accounted for, that the Milesian Irish are a short-nosed race ; you seldom see an aquiline or long nose with the real breed.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 144

39. The Poteen Distiller's Island Hut

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    A small island in the centre of Lough Derg containing a hut, initially thought to be an ascetic's cell, was actually built by a poteen distiller who supplied liquor to pilgrims visiting the purgatory station.

    Read the passage

    it was no such thing; it was built by a pot teen distiller; and there oeca^onaUy, and to answer the demands of the resorting pilgrims, he provides a supply of that article, which seems intimately connected with the devotions of the lower classes of the Irish Roman CathoUcs; from north to south, wherever I observed a holy well, or holy station, there was always adjoining some place for the sale of strong liquors — yes, even now, wherever piety erects a new chapel, cupidity soon sees the gain of constructing a publichouse.

    Before we landed I ascertained from my cautious conductor, that the present purgatorial island which we had just left, was not the one always resorted to, nor indeed the one that was consecrated by Saint Pftrtrick; and as it appears that the Romish schoolmen are not agreed as to the precise spot where purgatory is located, so the Romish priesthood, until that knotty poiQt is settled, have arrogated to themselves the right of changing the position of Patrick's Purgatory. The clerk of the purgatory confessed that the present island has been used for that purpose, but comparatively at a late period; and he pointed out an island due north of the

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

40. O'Sullivan's flight to Glengarriff woods

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork · 1602

    After the sack of Dunboy, O'Sullivan Bear took shelter with his wife, children, retainers and cattle in the woods of Glengarriff, maintaining contact with allies Tyrrell and O'Connor Kerry along the ridges of Slieve Logher.

    Read the passage

    After this sack of his stronghold, O'SulHvan, with his wife, children, retainers, and cattle, took shelter in the woods of GlengariflF. Tyrrel and O'Connor Kerry held communication with him along the ridges of SUevelogher. Eugene M'Egao, the apostolic vicar, was in the centre of the McCarthys of Carberry. But the Lord President was not to be withstood, and his heutenant, Sir Charles Wilmot who. was as good a guerilla as Tyrrell, and who knew

    • The war in those disastrous days was carried on with peculiar animosity and rancour ; religious hatred, party feuds, and national enmities combined to barb and poison the weapons of this warfare. That valiant apostolic vicar, Owen M<£gan who was defeated and killed by Captain Taaffe near Bandon, in his zeal never pardoned an Irishman, though a Papist, who fought for the queen ; but as soon as any such were taken, he had them confessed, absolved, and then hanged.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 128

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in 1602, O'Sullivan Bear took shelter in the woods of Glengarriff after the sack of Dunboy. He brought his wife, children, retainers and cattle with him. Tyrrell and O'Connor Kerry held communication with him along the ridges of Slieve Logher. Eugene M'Egan, the apostolic vicar, was in the centre of the McCarthys of Carberry. But the Lord President was not to be withstood, and his lieutenant, Sir Charles Wilmot, who was as good a guerilla as Tyrrell, pressed the pursuit. The war in those days was carried on with peculiar animosity and rancour, with religious hatred, party feuds and national enmities combined. That valiant apostolic vicar, Owen M'Egan, was defeated and killed by Captain Taaffe near Bandon. In his zeal he never pardoned an Irishman, though a Papist, who fought for the queen; as soon as any such were taken, he had them confessed, absolved, and then hanged.

41. The Fight of Bunane or Droumfaddy

    near Bunane · population centre · Kerry · 1652–1653

    Governor Gibbons led English troops from Kenmare against O'Sullivan's forces near the Castle of Bunane at a field called Droumfaddy, where the six opposing officers engaged hand to hand and all three English commanders were killed, leading to the destruction of the English party.

    Read the passage

    This in some measure discouraged the English party, vet they fought very well for some time, but as the lr\m had the advantage of pikes and broad-swords, and were expert at the use of them, the English were put into such disorder as occasioned their entire destruction, so that not one out of the nine score escaped being either killed or wounded, and but very few prayed for quarter. The wounded were treated most tenderly as prisoners, until an opportunity occurred for exchanging them. The Iri^ lost about twenty, killed in the action, and the same number wounded. This was called the fight of Bunanire, from the adjoining castle; by others it was called Droumfaddy, from the field.

    The account of it exasperated the government so much, that a proclamation was issued that all persons met without a protection at the south side of the river Lane, or westward of the Finhih, near Nedeen fort, were to expect death, without mercy, and all goods taken at the outside of said line to be forfeited without redemption, which daunted the poor inhabitants so far, that a great

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 152

42. The Holy Stone Destroyed by a Scotchman

    near Fanad · locality · Donegal

    A Presbyterian Scotchman overseeing new road works in Fannat ordered the holy stone associated with Columbkill's curse to be knocked out of the way, after which rats, mice and frogs supposedly returned to the district for the first time.

    Read the passage

    But, in an evil hour, a road was ordered by the higher powers to he cut through the district, and a black Presbyterian, and withal a Scotchman, was the person appointed to lay out the new line-i— and what do you think of the man, foul bdTall his infidehty, he found the holy stone in his way, as he was levelling for the road ; and, with the scorn of a very chield of John Knox, he ordered his heretic people to knock it out of the way — ^and, would you believe it? from that day forth, rats, and mice, and frogs came into Fannat with the greatest freedom in the world. A rat was actually seen running across Father M'Mahon, the priest's kitchen, and, it's as true as you're there, that Farmer M'Cullum gave a fat goose to a Derry cadger for a young kitten.

    But there is one standing miracle of Columbkill that yet holds out, and we trust that no Scotchman shall be ever able to shorten or mar such a privilege. The holy man has actually conferred on the inhabitants of Fannat, immunity from dying by the rope; do what they will, riot, rob, or rape, — send them to

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 35

43. The hypnotic hum of four hundred praying pilgrims

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    Inside the Prison, the narrator describes an eerie, ceaseless hoarse murmuring chant from about four hundred half-asleep pilgrims, likened to subterraneous groans, which had a powerful lulling and supernatural effect.

    Read the passage

    priests, facing the congregation, stood upon the altar in silence, with pale spectral visages, their eyes catching an unearthly glare from the sepulchral light of the slender tapers. But that which was strangest of all, and as I said hefore, without parallel in this world, was the impression an4 effect produced by the deep, drowsy, hollow, hoarse, guttural, ceaseless, and monotonous hinty which proceeded from about four hundred individuals half asleep, and at prayer ; for their cadences were blended and slurred into each other, as they repeated, in an awe-struck and earnest undertone, the prayers in which they were engaged. It was certainly the strangest and most supernatural-like sound I ever heard^ and resembled a thousand subterraneous groans, uttered in a kind of low, deep, unvaried chant. Nothing could produce a sense of gloomy alarm in a weak superstitious mind equal to this; and it derived much of its wild and singular character, as well as of its lethargic influence, from its continuity; for it still — still rung lowly and supernaturally on my ear. Perhaps the deep, wavy prolongation of the bass of a large cathedral bell, or that low, continuous sound, which is distinct from

    148 ITS REMEDY.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 57

44. The magician's tower and Columbkill's rescue of his soul from the Devil

    Bellville or Gartan · townland · Donegal

    Near Gartan stood a ruin said to have been the tower of a magician who worshipped idols of the sun and moon on an emerald altar. When the Devil tried to carry off the stricken magician, Columbkill made the sign of the cross, causing the Devil to drop him; the magician then converted, became a monk, and built the church on the site.

    Read the passage

    lark in its clawd, sailing under the sun mth his prejr in possession; and just as he was directly oyerhead^ Columb made the sign of the cross in the air, and this perfectly astonished the Devil, it made him let go his gripe of the poor magician, as you, my dear, would let go your hold of a too hot potato, and so down he dropt at Golumbkill's feet; and, to make my story short, he at once turned a conyert, embraced Christianity, became a monk, built this church, and died a Catholic and confessor of the faith.

    I confess, I am sometimes inclined to think those old stories are allegorically prophetical of what has come to pass in modern times. This old magician with his tower, seems evidently intended as a mysti^ fication of&potteen distiller, with his tower of smoke rising from one of these islands; and his magic ghtss evidently means the fiery liquor which can make a man see double; and then, it is so natural for the Devil to fly away with a distiller: therefore, the matter is quite dear, that the indomitable rage of the people of Tyrconnell for illicit distillation, is a verification of one of Columbkill's prophecies.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 19

45. The Prison and the wakeful switch-man

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal

    Pilgrims are confined in a dark dungeon called the Prison for twenty-four hours without food, kept awake by a man with a switch since falling asleep was believed to endanger the soul.

    Read the passage

    except when in the prison^ where they remain twentyfour hours. During this period they are prohibited from tasting food of any kind. Twenty-four priests are the regular number for officiating in this place^ each one hour. The prison is a dungeon into which the light of day is not allowed to enter. A man with a switch is kept in regular exercise here, to keep the pilgrims in a wakeM state. Sleep is rery dangerous, &)r a single nod may lose the soul for ever, without the interference of all the fathers and saints of the calendar, and a considerable sum of money.''

    The following is extracted from Bishop Henry Jones's account, published in 1647.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 51

46. Why the Purgatory Moved Islands

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The boatman explained that the purgatory site was moved because the old island near Saint's Island was close enough to shore that pilgrims could wade over, allowing smuggled liquor and interruptions to fasting; the new island required swimming to reach.

    Read the passage

    The position of this larger island agrees with the description of Coppinger and Jones, written two hundred years ago; and it is prohahle, that when by the direction of the council board. Sir William Stuart invaded and uprooted this nest of superstition in the seventeenth century, the priests migrated to the present isle. My old and cunning friend, so far passed beyond the bounds of his caution as to assign a substantial reason for this change of purgatory. '^ The old island, sir, was too near the sho^e, and in summer time, the people could come from the mainland to it by a little wading ; and often, sir, ungodly people used to bring over to the pilgrims, liquor and other things, that used to spoil their devotions and interrupt their fasts; but now he must be a good swimmer who could get to our present holy place." Now I suspect that the real reason of the change was, that pilgrims, as he said, could wade to the old purgatory, and so smuggling themselves through the necessary stations, unperceived by, and without pay-

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 63

47. Danger of harvesting eider down at Horn Head

    near Horn Head · promontory · Donegal

    Local people undertook the dangerous trade of taking down-covered seabirds off their nests on the Horn Head cliffs for their valuable down, an activity that claimed two or three lives annually when gatherers were dashed to pieces.

    Read the passage

    Here the country-people carry on a more fear^ trade than eyen gathering samphire^ namely, the taking these hirds off their nests, These dark dwellers of the ocean are all furnished with a covering of the toest down« which hears a high price — I helieve about fiTe shillings per pound, and about two dozen of these birds furnish a pound; it is, therefore, a most tempting employment for these poor people; for an active and experienced man can take three or four dozen every day; but it is accompanied with immense danger, and annually two or three or more fall a sacrifice, and are dashed to pieces. This practice of taking birds is described in some treatises on natural history, so I shall not trouble my reader with it here. I shall, therefore, proceed further along the promontory, where the cliff arose not so high, to where the curious natural phenomenon occurs, called M*Swine's Gun, which is caused by a horizontal cavern running for many yards under the cliff, from whence a perpendicular shaft rises to the surface, and this is called M'Swine's Gun. This particular point lies open to the north-west, and when the tempest sets in from that quarter, the storm forces the sea with tremendous power into the

    84 m*8Winb'8 gun.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 32

48. Relics of St. Patrick's bell and the serpent's tail bone

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1647

    On the island's altar lay three fragments of a bell said to have been carried by St. Patrick, along with a knotty hollow bone displayed as a relic of a great serpent's tail, one of the monsters St. Patrick expelled from Ireland.

    Read the passage

    small rising ground, and on a heap of stones lay a little stone cross, part broken, part standing; and in the east of the church was another cross made of twigs interwoven: this is known by the name of St. Patrick's altar, on which lie three pieces of a bell, which they say St. Patrick used to carry in his hand. Here also was laid a certain knotty bone of some bigness, hollow in the midst like the knave of a wheel, and out of which issue, as it were, natural spokes : this was shown as a great rarity, being part of a great serpent's tail— one of those monsters the blessed Patrick expelled out of Ireland.

    "Towards the narrowest part of the island were six circles — some call them saints' beds, or beds of penance. Pilgrims are continually praying aud kneeling about these beds; and they are compassed around with sharp stones and difficult passages for the accommodation of such as go barefooted.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 52

49. Defeat of the Irish at Knocknanuss

    Knocknanuss · townland · Cork · 1647

    The Irish forces, after a resolute contest, were defeated at Knocanoss during the Cromwellian conflict, leading to failed peace treaties and the fixing of Knocknaclashy as the next battlefield.

    Read the passage

    Daniel O' Sullivan More, who was married to Ellen Brown, enjoyed his estate hut for a short time, for he joined Daniel McCarthy, Terence O'Brien, and his two uncles, in opposition to Cromwell. The first action, as far as I can learn, that he was engaged in, was at Drmncasseragh, where they were defeated, and where all hehaved themselves courageously, and where one of the colonels acted such a hrave part ttiat his deeds were versified by a Kerry poet, in which he argues the equality of his hero with Owen Roe O'Neil, whose fame was exalted by a Northern poet. In this poetic contest the northern rhymer says that O'Neil was the hand and thumb of Ireland. The Kerry poet asserts that the land should be divided between the two champions, so equal was their merit. The next action was at Knocanoss, where the Irish, after a most resolute contest, were defeated ; after which there were several treaties for peace set on foot, which came to no issue, and consequently Knocnaclassi, by mutual consent, was fixed for the field of battle, and though a circumstance that happened the night before the engagement is not altogether pertinent to the purpose of this story, yet I shall set it forth.

    The Earl of Inchiquin, who was general of Cromwell's army, hearing of a wizard, or man inspired by

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 150

50. The Priest's Curse Destroys Dunanore Castle

    Dunanore · townland · Wexford

    Certain people who had settled in the Castle of Dunanore offended the local priest, who ordered them out; when they obeyed, he pronounced a curse and half the old castle collapsed into the sea, remaining as a memorial to priestly power.

    Read the passage

    The mandate was obeyed, one took up a stool, another a bed-post, the children carried pots, porringers, and trenchers, and when all were gone, like the children of Israel departing out of Egypt; then it was that the priest, taking out bdl and breviary, pronounced his curse, and down with tremendous crash, and dash, went the half of the old castle into the sea, and there the remainder of it now stands, a memorial and mark of priestly power."

    My good reader, do not be in the least ineredulous, for all this must be quite true; every one on the

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 80

51. Torry islanders storm-driven to Ards

    Ards · townland · Donegal

    A fishing boat of seven or eight Torry Islanders was driven by weather into Ards Bay and could not return for days; Mr Stewart of Ards sheltered them in a barn, and the amazed islanders, who had never seen trees before, took leaves home as souvenirs.

    Read the passage

    plenty of food and fresh straw to lie on ; — ^not one of these people were ever in Ireland before ; the trees of Ards actually astonished them — they were seen putting leaves and small branches in their pockets, to show on their return. Mr. Stewart had the good nature to procure a piper for their amusement, and all the time the wind was contrary, these harmless people continued dancing, singing, eating, sleeping — a picture of savage life in every age and clime. There are about 500 inhabitants on the island, and these poor creatures have been in the course of the present summer, visited by a great calamity. In the month of August last, a strange and unforeseen storm set in from the north-west, which drove the sea in immense waves over the whole flat part of the island : the waves even beat over the highest clifis — all their com was destroyed, their potatoes washed out of the ground, and all their springs of fresh water filled up ; nothing can be imagined more deplorable than this. The island is part of the estate of the ^ee of Raphoe. On this occasion, Dr. Bissett, the excellent bishop, did much to alleviate the wants of this wretched people.

    DOW CASTLE. 13

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

52. Wilmot surprises O'Sullivan at Glengarriff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork · 1602

    Sir Charles Wilmot, Carew's lieutenant who knew the fastnesses of Slieve Logher and Desmond as well as any O'Sullivan, tracked and surprised the O'Sullivan forces at Glengarriff.

    Read the passage

    the fastnesses of Slievelogher and Desmond, as well as if he were the son of a Sollivan,* surprised the 0' Sullivan in Glenganff. The prince of Bear and

    * The O'Sullivan race have been not onlj noted for the quality common to all the ancient Irish families, great personal bnTory, but also for intellectnal endowment^ O'SnUivan Bear, whose able retreat from Munster into Uhster is recorded in the text, is not the onlj member of the family famous for martial deeds ; generally attached to the Roman faith, when unwilling or not allowed to serve a Protestant govtmimeiit, they have served with eminence in foreign arm^ Philip O'Sullivan Bear, who was naval commander in the fleet of the King of Spain, has written a history of Ireland, not more remarkable for its extreme bigotry and misrepresentation of Protestants, than for its elegaut and almost Ciceronian Latinity. Hi9 attacic on Archlnshop Usher, entitled, ARcmco&NiGE&iMASTix, an extremely scarce tract, is one of the most elegant pieces of scurrility in existence.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 128

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, in 1602, Sir Charles Wilmot surprised the O'Sullivan forces. Wilmot was Carew's lieutenant, and he knew the fastnesses of Slieve Logher and Desmond as well as if he were the son of an O'Sullivan himself. That knowledge let him track the O'Sullivan to Glengarriff and take him off guard. The O'Sullivan Beare whose retreat from Munster into Ulster is recorded in the text was not the only member of the family famous for martial deeds. The O'Sullivan race were noted not only for the great personal bravery common to all the ancient Irish families, but also for intellectual endowment. Generally attached to the Roman faith, when unwilling or not allowed to serve a Protestant government, they served with eminence in foreign arms. Philip O'Sullivan Beare was naval commander in the fleet of the King of Spain, and has written a history of Ireland, remarkable for its extreme bigotry and misrepresentation of Protestants, but also for its elegant and almost Ciceronian Latinity. His attack on Archbishop Usher, a tract entitled ArchoNigesMastix, is one of the most elegant pieces of scurrility in existence.

53. Contrast Between Lansdowne and Trinity College Estates

    Kenmare · townland · Kerry

    The author observed that Lord Lansdowne's lands were far better cultivated and its tenants more prosperous than those on the neighbouring Trinity College estate, where sub-letting through numerous middlemen impoverished the tenants.

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    of Popery ; nothing could be more opposed^ or more mcongnious. But to a modem whig, the Romish reHgion is quite a beautiM and harmless system; and the once fearful monster is considered now so tamed as to lose its rabid propensities, or so old as to have lost all its cutting teeth, and, therefore, it is quite safe and right to make a pet of it. But what has a tourist to do with pohtics ? To return to Lord Lansdowne's estate on one side of the river, and that of Trinity College on the other, I observed as I drove slowly along, that his lordship's lands were much better cultivated; the farms better stocked; the cabins fewer; more grass land; what houses appeared were of a better description than on the Collegiate lands, and on alighting to walk up a hill, I entered into chat with a poor sickly-looking fellow, who was going towards Nedeen. There is no countryman in Ireland so easy, or I would say so polished in his address and manners as a Kerryman. I was really surprised as I passed through the country, to receive 'answers and procure directions fraught with civility and inteUigence, superior much to what I have met elsewhere. "With the man in question I had a good deal pf conversation, as he was going my

    368 A middleman's tenant.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 147

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Lord Lansdowne's estate lay on one side of the river and Trinity College's on the other. Driving slowly along, the author saw that Lansdowne's lands were much better cultivated, the farms better stocked, the cabins fewer, and there was more grass land. The houses that appeared were of a better description than on the Collegiate lands. Alighting to walk up a hill, he fell into chat with a poor sickly-looking fellow walking toward Nedeen. The author reckoned there is no countryman in Ireland so easy, or so polished in his address and manners, as a Kerryman. Passing through the country, he was surprised to receive answers and directions fraught with civility and intelligence, superior to what he had met elsewhere. He had a good deal of conversation with the man, who was going his way. The contrast between the two estates was plain to see as he travelled: better land, fewer cabins, better houses on Lansdowne's side.

54. The concentric stone 'Beds' and their prayer sequence

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    The narrator describes the Beds as sharp stones set circularly with spikes upward, entered in decreasing circles like a maze, with pilgrims reciting dozens of prayers as they moved from the outer to the innermost bed.

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    what i» called the ' Beds/ and God help St. Patrick if he lay upon them : they are sharp stones placed circularly in the earth, with the spike ends of them up, one circle within another; and the manner in which the pilgrim gets as far as the innermost, resembles precisely that in which school-boys enter the walls of Troy upon their slates. I moved away from these upon the sharp stones with which the whole island is surfaced, keeping the chapel or ^ Prison,' as it is called, upon my right; then turning, I came round again, with a circumbendibus, to the spot from which I set out. During this circuit, ^ well as I can remember, I repeated fifty-five paters and avesy and five creeds, or five decades ; and be it known, that the fifty prayers were offered up to the Virgin Mary, and the odd five to God ! I then commenced getting round the external beds, during which I repeated, I think, fifteen paters and aves more; and as the beds decreased in circumference, the prayers decreased in length, until a short circuit and three paters and aves finished the last and inner-r piost of these blessed couches. I really forget how many times each day the prison and these beds ar^ to be surroundedi and hpw irjany thousand prayer^

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 54

55. The serpent's guts turned to stone at the island entrance

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal

    Local tradition held that the narrow rocky entrance to the island was formed from the guts of a great serpent metamorphosed into stones, tying the site to St. Patrick's legendary expulsion of serpents.

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    ''The entrance into the island is narrow and rocky; these rocks they report to be the guts of a great serpent metamorphosed into stones. When Mr. Copinger, a gentleman drawn thither by the fame of the place, visited it, there was a church covered with shingles dedicated to St. Patrick, and it was thus furnished: at the east end was a high altar covered with linen, over which did hang the image of our Lady with our Saviour in her arms; on the right did hang the picture of the three kings offering their presents to our Saviour; and on the left the picture of onr Saviour on the cross; near the altar, and on the south side, did stand on the ground an old worm-eaten image of St. Patrick; aUd behind the altar was another of the same fabric, but still older in appearance, called St. Arioge; and on the right hand another image called St. Yolusianus.

    " Between the church and the cave there is a

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 51

56. Prostration and ferry crossing to the island

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1839

    On first sighting the lake, pilgrims prostrate themselves, kiss the earth and recite prayers, then pay the ferryman ten pence to be rowed to the purgatory island, later kissing the island itself fifteen times on arrival.

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    f* As soon as we ascended the hill, the whole scene was instantly before us : a large lake, surrounded hy an amphitheatre of mountains, bleak, uncomfortable, and desolate. In the lake itself, about half a mile from the edge next us, was to be seen the * Island,' with two OT three slated houses on it, naked and unplastered, as desolate-looking almost as the mountains. A Uttle range of exceeding low hovels, which the German dwarf could scarcely enter without stooping, appeared to the left; and the eye could rest on nothing more, except a living mass of human beings crawling slowly about like worms on a dead dog. The first thing the pilgrim does when he gets a sight of the lake, is to prostrate himself, kiss the earth, and then on his knees qfer up three Paters and Aves, for the favour of being permitted to see this blessed pla,ce. When this is over, he descends to the lake, and after paying ten pence to the ferryman, is rowed over to the purgatory. When the whole view was presented to me, I stood for some time to contemplate it ; and I cannot better illustrate the reaction which took place in my mind, than by saying that it resembles that awkward inversion which a man's proper body experiences, when, on going to pull some-

    140 APPEARANCE UNROMANTIC.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 53

57. Bantry Town's Poverty Despite Fortification

    Bantry · town · Cork

    Bantry is described as a poor seaport without trade or shipping, its fishery failing, despite immense sums spent fortifying the harbour after the 1796 invasion scare. The martello towers added picturesque beauty but did not relieve the town's poverty.

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    Immense sums of money have since that time been expended in fortifying this harbour: some say to very Uttle purpose. One purpose I know has been gained — the martello towers have added very much to the picturesque beauty of the bay, and that sufficeth me. The town of Bantry remains thus poor still, in spite of the money lavished in its vicinity. Even tne proximity of a nobleman, who has the rare merit of staying at home, is insufficient to counteract the evils of a population, increasing beyond the means of subsistence. Leaving the town of Bantry beset and buried amongst hills that seemed to cover in shame its cabins, I proceeded towards the north-west, and about a mile from the town, adjoining a pretty oak plantation, a large rock jutted out into the road, on the right hand : a poor man as we passed it made a low bow. I asked a fellow-traveller what was the meaning of the man bowing to the rock ?

    priest's leap. 253

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 100

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming near Bantry, a poor seaport town in Cork hemmed in by hills that seem to cover its cabins in shame. After the 1796 invasion scare, immense sums of money were spent fortifying this harbour. Some say to very little purpose. The martello towers did add much to the picturesque beauty of the bay, and that is one thing gained. But the town of Bantry remains poor still, in spite of all the money lavished in its vicinity. Even the proximity of a nobleman, who has the rare merit of staying at home, is not enough to counteract the evils of a population increasing beyond the means of subsistence. There is no trade, no shipping, and the fishery is failing. The fortifications and the towers stand around the bay, but they have done nothing to relieve the poverty of the town itself.

58. Briney O'Doherty at Lough Salt

    near Lough Salt · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The narrator meets Briney O'Doherty, a poor old Irish clansman living by Lough Salt, who claims descent from the O'Dohertys and recounts the family's loss of Innishowen to the Chichesters. He proudly recalls Sir Cahir O'Doherty's stratagem in taking Culmore fort.

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    ledge he had of the old families of the district^ and of the changes of property that had occurred in it. He spoke of his own ancestors^ the O'Dohertys, told us how they, once owned all Innishowen, which the Chichesters cheated and robbed them of; he told ns, in his own way, how Sir Cahir CKDoherty surprised the ancestor of the present possessor of Dow Castle, and took Culmore fort from him by stratagem.*

    * After Sir John O'Doherty*^ death; Cahir his son pretended ^eat inclinations towards the English, and was made in ooBsequence a Justice of Peace; he contracted an intimate friendship with the English, and particularly with Captain Hart, Governor of Culmore, near Derry. On a certain day Sir Cahir invited Captain Hart to dinner, and he left his Fort, and eame with his wife and bis little child (to whom Sir Cahir was godfather) to th§ chieftain's feast After dinner, O'Doherty ftrose and called Hart aside, and plainly told him t' at he hated the English, that he must be revenged, and he should have Ca\more. «* Quietly surrender it to me7 or yourself, your wife, and child shall die,*' and immediately a band of armed kerns rushed into the room. Hart kept bis courage, and Sir Cahir ordered his men to execute bim. Just at this moment, in rushed Hart's wife an ' Lady Doherty, and urged by the entreaties of the women, Doherty was dissuaded from the murder. He therefore sent Captain Hart out of the room, well guarded and then addressing bis wife, he said, ** Madam, go instantly oif to Culmore with this band of soldiers ; get them peaceaMe entrance into- the Fort, or your husband and child will cease to

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 9

59. Forbidden graveyard legend on Torry Island

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal

    A portion of the churchyard built by St Columbkill on Torry Island was said to be reserved for ancient saints, and any corpse buried there was cast out of the ground overnight; a father's daughter buried there was twice exhumed until he kept watch and witnessed her body thrown up on the third night.

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    Thus he lay until the stars told him that midnight waa past, when all at once a noise rose from beneath— a mighty heave was given as from an earthquake, and clear and deaa the maiden was left in her coffin on the green grass. You may be sure that after this experiment some other reating-place waa found for her bones,

    A foreigner, who is not more remarkable for his attainments

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

60. Great storm devastates Torry Island

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal

    A severe storm from the north-west in August drove waves over the whole flat part of Torry Island, destroying the corn, washing out potatoes, and filling in fresh water springs, leaving the roughly 500 inhabitants in great distress; the Bishop of Raphoe, Dr Bissett, worked to relieve them.

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    plenty of food and fresh straw to lie on ; — ^not one of these people were ever in Ireland before ; the trees of Ards actually astonished them — they were seen putting leaves and small branches in their pockets, to show on their return. Mr. Stewart had the good nature to procure a piper for their amusement, and all the time the wind was contrary, these harmless people continued dancing, singing, eating, sleeping — a picture of savage life in every age and clime. There are about 500 inhabitants on the island, and these poor creatures have been in the course of the present summer, visited by a great calamity. In the month of August last, a strange and unforeseen storm set in from the north-west, which drove the sea in immense waves over the whole flat part of the island : the waves even beat over the highest clifis — all their com was destroyed, their potatoes washed out of the ground, and all their springs of fresh water filled up ; nothing can be imagined more deplorable than this. The island is part of the estate of the ^ee of Raphoe. On this occasion, Dr. Bissett, the excellent bishop, did much to alleviate the wants of this wretched people.

    DOW CASTLE. 13

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog