Sketches in Ireland: Descriptive of Interesting Portions of the Counties of Donegal, Cork, and Kerry

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read it as the scan has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too. The passages are read off photographs of the page by machine, so a word here and there comes out wrong; they are kept as the reading produced them, so you can check any of them against the scan.

1. O'Sullivan's army mustered at Glenbeigh before English landing

   Glenbeigh · town · Kerry · 1652

   O'Sullivan had his army stationed at Glenbeigh when he learned that English ships were sailing toward the Skelligs, prompting him to divide his forces to intercept the invading troops.

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   £rom Tralee bay. O'SuUivan had at this time his little army at Glenbeagh, where late in the afternoon he was api^nsed that said ships, with a £ur wind, were making sail towards the Skeligs. He immediately divided his party into two divisions ; one headed by himself proceeded towards the harbour of Poulnanurragh, the other party, con^rising four companies under Captain Owen O* Sullivan of Fermoyle, an experienced officer, and commander of a regiment, marched towards Ballinskelligs. The ships containing the invading troops came to anchor in said harbour early that niffht, and sent out three companies of about one hundred and sixty men, who surprised most of the inhabitants before day, took all the booty, and drove off all the cattle they could meet to the banks of the harbour. By this time Captain O' Sullivan had arrived with his party near where the prev was collected, and observing the situation of the English, when resting after the fatigue of coUectiug their booty, and just preparing to take on board the cattle and the cs^tures, O* Sullivan of his companies made four parties ; he ordered Captain John Brennan, with his company to take the advantage of a small valley eastwards of Ballinskelligs, and attack the enemy, at the same time he would see him fall on ; he likewise ordered another companv, under the command of Lieut. M^Swiney, to proceed along another vallev westwards* and with the same direction. He himself, with a young captain, a namesake of his, the head of the fiunily of Cossanalossy, with two companies, marched towards the English ; who sounded their trumpets and made other demonstrations of joy at seeing them approach. At the same time they took the advantage of fixing themselves behind a low ditch, surrounding a small neld on the brink of the sea, which O* Sullivan observing, he ordered what small arms he had in front of his party to be discharged as soon as well within musket-shot of the enemy, and not to wait for charging again, or withstand the English firing, but to rush on and engage with pikes and broad-swor(k. The Irish made the first fire, which had no greater effect than wounding' some few. The English had the patience not to fire even when their op-

   376 APPENDIX.

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 151

   As the companion tells it

   The town of Glenbeigh sits along this road in Kerry. In 1652, O'Sullivan had his little army stationed here. Late one afternoon he learned that English ships, with a fair wind, were making sail towards the Skelligs. He immediately divided his party into two divisions. One, headed by himself, proceeded towards the harbour of Poulnanurragh. The other, comprising four companies under Captain Owen O'Sullivan of Fermoyle, an experienced officer and commander of a regiment, marched towards Ballinskelligs. The ships carrying the invading troops came to anchor in that harbour early that night. They sent out three companies of about 160 men, who surprised most of the inhabitants before day, took all the booty, and drove off all the cattle they could find to the banks of the harbour. By then Captain O'Sullivan had arrived near where the prey was collected. Observing the English resting after collecting their booty, and just preparing to take the cattle on board, O'Sullivan divided his four companies into four parties. He ordered Captain John Brennan, with his company, to take advantage of a small valley eastwards of Ballinskelligs and attack the enemy. He ordered another company under Lieutenant MacSwiney to proceed along another valley westwards with the same direction. He himself, with a young captain, a namesake of his, the head of the family of Cossanalossy, and two companies, marched towards the English. The English sounded their trumpets and made other demonstrations of joy at seeing them approach. They fixed themselves behind a low ditch surrounding a small field on the brink of the sea. O'Sullivan ordered what small arms he had to be discharged as soon as within musket-shot, and not to wait for charging again, but to rush on and engage with pikes and broad-swords. The Irish made the first fire, which wounded only a few. The English had the patience not to fire even when their opponents came on.

2. Sir William Petty's Plantation on the Lansdowne Estate

   Kenmare · townland · Kerry

   An immense district near the river dividing the Marquis of Lansdowne's and Trinity College's estates had been granted to Sir William Petty on condition he plant it with Protestants and expel the tories; over a thousand were said to have been planted there, though few visible descendants remained.

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   After proceeding for about two miles down the Kerry side of the mountains, I haying no farther occasion for my escort, dismissed the men, ftdl of thanks for a few shillings divided amongst them. The features of the Kerry side of this mountain district are not so interesting as those on the southern side. After descending gradually for some miles, the road gets better, but still very rough and dangerous, and you come to the banks of a river dividing the estates of the Marquis of Lansdowne, and of Trinity College. An immense district in this quarter was granted to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the present Marquis, on condition that he should plant it with Protestants, and expel the tones. I believe Sir William was wise as well as true enough to his undertaking, to do his best in peopling this district with Protestants. I understand that upwards of one thousand were planted here ; but where are they now? where Sir William's poHtics are gone. It is a curious circumstance, how whiggism has changed its spirit. Formerly a whig was all repulsive

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 146

   As the companion tells it

   After proceeding about two miles down the Kerry side of the mountains, the narrator dismissed his escort, full of thanks for a few shillings divided amongst them. The features of the Kerry side of this mountain district are not so interesting as those on the southern side. After descending gradually for some miles, the road gets better, but still very rough and dangerous, and you come to the banks of a river dividing the estates of the Marquis of Lansdowne and of Trinity College. Somewhere close to Kenmare, an immense district in this quarter was granted to Sir William Petty, the ancestor of the present Marquis, on condition that he should plant it with Protestants and expel the tories. Sir William was wise as well as true enough to his undertaking, to do his best in peopling this district with Protestants. Upwards of one thousand were planted here. But where are they now? Where Sir William's politics are gone. It is a curious circumstance, how whiggism has changed its spirit. Formerly a whig was all repulsive.

3. The floating islands beneath the angel's footmark

   near Mount Gabriel · hill or hills · Cork

   Beneath the mark of the angel's foot on Mount Gabriel lies a round lake full of trout, upon which floating islands drift about but gather beneath the crag every Lady-day.

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   part ynih the worship and duty it owes to the mother of God, he resolyed to take a peep at the happy land that St. Patrick was to bestow for eyer on the Virgin. So down he came, a&d perched on the western peak of that mountain; the mark, they say> of his standing is there to this day;* and his t^ toes are branded OB the rodk^ as plain as if I clasped my fonr fingers and thnmb upon a sod of drying turf; and just under the blessed mark^ is a jewel of a lake^ round as a turner's bowl, aUve with trout; and there are islands on it that float up and down, east and north and south; but every Lady-day they come floating to the western point» and there they lie flxed under the crag that holds the track of the angel's foot."

   With conversation such as this we beguiled the row until we passed two long islands that sheltered the entrance of the bay of Skull, and now we were abroad on what appeared to a poor landsman like me, to be the great Western Ocean; and oh I what a noble expanse, as east and west we ran our eye coastward.

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 75

   As the companion tells it

   As the road nears Mount Gabriel in Cork, you're coming into a hill with a strange tale attached to it. The story goes that an angel, wishing to see the land Saint Patrick had promised to bestow forever on the Virgin, came down and perched on the western peak of the mountain. The mark of his standing is there to this day. His toes are branded on the rock as plain as if you clasped your four fingers and thumb upon a sod of drying turf. Just under that blessed mark lies a jewel of a lake, round as a turner's bowl and alive with trout. There are islands on it that float up and down, east and north and south, drifting across the water. But every Lady-day they come floating to the western point, and there they lie fixed under the crag that holds the track of the angel's foot. It was told to the traveller as he rowed past two long islands that sheltered the entrance of the bay of Skull, until he was abroad on what appeared to him like the great Western Ocean, a noble expanse stretching coastward east and west. cites: [105944]

4. Warriors and Armies Through the Gap

   near Barnesmore · pass · Donegal

   The gap witnessed the passage of O'Neill and O'Donnell clans joining Maguire of Fermanagh in attacks, and Eber M'Mahon leading Confederate veterans of Benburb to fight the Cromwellians at Letterkenny before his defeat and death.

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   tresses on the Shannon, or in spreading desolation over the plains of Sligo and Roscommon; through this pass Ebher M'Mahon, the popish bishop and general^ led the victorious veterans* of Benburb to fight the CromweUians at Letterkenny, when with sword in one hand, and breviary in the other, he headed his men to the charge, and fought for, and lost his cause and his life. Through this pass the brave Enniskilleners in King WiUiam's wars held communication with their fellow-sufferers and fellowconquerors of Derry. But enough of wild, desultory, and misery-working war has this mountain gap witnessed. I trust it may yet be put to the more peaceful use of facilitating commerce between the north and west, and that through it a rail-road will run from Derry to Sligo. So to proceed. I shaU not

   * Owen Roe 0*Neal defeated the parliamentary Scotch foroes at Benburb, with the loss of 3200 men, with all their artillery and baggage : Monroe, the Scotch general, fled without hat, wig, or coat Owen Roe's army was all composed of old Irish Macs and 0*s. The Papal Nuncio Rinuncini, writing to Rome an account of this victory, announces, «that the army of your HOLINESS has obtained in Ulster, a signal victory, with the slaughter of almost the whole of the Puritan forces. **.^ Curious perrersion of words : a thing called a holiness, committing slaughter on a thing called a pusitan.

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 41

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere about Barnesmore, this mountain gap has seen armies pass through it again and again. The O'Neills and O'Donnells came this way to join Maguire of Fermanagh in their attacks, whether on the Shannon or spreading desolation across the plains of Sligo and Roscommon. Through this same pass, Eber M'Mahon, the bishop and general, led the victorious veterans of Benburb to fight the Cromwellians at Letterkenny. He went to the charge with sword in one hand and breviary in the other, headed his men, fought for his cause, and lost both the cause and his life. Those veterans of Benburb owed their name to a battle where Owen Roe O'Neil defeated the parliamentary Scotch forces, with the loss of 3200 men, all their artillery and baggage. Monroe, the Scotch general, fled without hat, wig, or coat. Owen Roe's army was composed of old Irish Macs and O's. The Papal Nuncio Rinuncini wrote to Rome that the army of your Holiness had obtained in Ulster a signal victory, with the slaughter of almost the whole of the Puritan forces. Through this pass too, the brave Enniskilleners in King William's wars held communication with their fellow-sufferers and fellow-conquerors of Derry. This mountain gap has witnessed enough of wild, desultory, misery-working war.

5. Otway's disgust at Station Island's squalor

   near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

   Otway describes landing on the island and finding it filthy, dreary and detestable, with slated priests' house, two chapels, cabins, and stone 'saints' beds' where pilgrims crawl on bare knees.

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   In a short time I arriyed at the island, and as pepping out of the boat I planted my foot on the rocks of this scene of human absurdity, I felt ashamed for human nature, and looked on myself as one of the millions of fools that have, century after century, degraded their understandings, by coming hither. The island I found to be of an oval shape. The buildings on it consisted of a slated house for the priests, two chapels, and a long range of cabins on the rocky surface of the island, which may contain about half an acre: there were also certain round walls about two feet high, enclosing broken stone and wooden crosses; these were called saints' beds, and 9round these circles, on the sharp and stony rocks, the pilgrims go on their naked knees. Altogether I may briefly sum up my yiew of this place, and say that it was filthy, dreary, and altogether detestable — it was a positive waste of time to visit it, and I hope

   134 ITS DESCRIPTION.

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 50

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Station Island, a traveller named Otway landed here in 1839 and what he found filled him with shame. Stepping out of his boat onto the rocks, he felt ashamed for human nature and called himself one of the millions of fools who had come century after century, degrading their understandings. The island was oval, about half an acre of rocky surface. On it stood a slated house for the priests, two chapels, and a long range of cabins. There were also round walls about two feet high, enclosing broken stone and wooden crosses, called saints' beds. Around these circles, on the sharp and stony rocks, pilgrims went on their naked knees. Otway summed up his view of the place in three words. It was, he said, "filthy, dreary, and altogether detestable." He called it a positive waste of time to visit.

6. St. Patrick Confines the Monster to the Lake Bottom

   near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

   St. Patrick commanded the wounded monster to proceed to the bottom of Lough Derg, where tradition holds it still lives and roars, restrained by Patrick's power from ever coming ashore again, especially visible during storms.

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   below the region of the heart; and to work he fell with his short sword, and in a little space of time he (^ned an orifice about the size of a coach-house door in the monster's side, who, during the operation, no doubt, felt yery alarming symptoms of cholera morbus; moreover, it is not to be supposed that Fin and his fellow-prisoners were slow. at making their exit from "durance vile;" and well it may be said, that such a jail delivery was not since the evacuation of the Trojan horse. And thus Fin not only released many captives, but he spoiled the appetite altogether of the "blatant beast" who lay along bellowing, and its abominable blood streaming from its open side, and rushing like a mountain torrent into the lake, all whose waters were thereby dyed red; and so along the shore it lay, in purga<- torial agony, suffering all the pains due to its former voraciousness, until St. Patrick came; and he, in order to show unto the obstinate Pagans what power was committed unto a Christian saint, commanded the monster to arise and proceed to its appointed place at the bottom of the lough,, where it lies to this day, living, and at times roaring, but for ever restrained by Patrick's power from coming ashore to

   THE POWER OF ST. PATRICK. 175

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

   As the companion tells it

   Lough Derg in Donegal has an old story attached to it. Fin wounded the monster below the region of the heart. He worked with his short sword, and in a short time made an opening about the size of a coach-house door in the monster's side. The monster, during the operation, no doubt felt very alarming symptoms of cholera morbus. Fin and his fellow prisoners were not slow in making their exit from their captivity. Such a jail delivery had not been seen since the evacuation of the Trojan horse. Fin not only released many captives, but he spoiled the appetite altogether of the blatant beast, who lay along bellowing, its blood streaming from its open side, rushing like a mountain torrent into the lake, dyeing all the waters red. So along the shore it lay, in purgatorial agony, suffering all the pains due to its former voraciousness, until St. Patrick came. Patrick, to show the obstinate Pagans what power was committed to a Christian saint, commanded the monster to arise and proceed to its appointed place at the bottom of the lough. There it lies to this day, living, and at times roaring, but for ever restrained by Patrick's power from coming ashore again.

7. Bishop Henry Jones's 1647 description of St. Patrick's rock and Lachavanny

   near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1647

   Bishop Henry Jones's 1647 account describes the rock where St. Patrick knelt in prayer, marked with a cleft from his knees, and another stone called Lachavanny in the lake said to heal pilgrims' bleeding feet.

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   "The island called St. Patrick's Purgatory is altogether rocky, and rather leyel; within the compass of the island, in the water towards the northeast, about two yards from the shore, stand certain rocks, the least of which, and next the shore, is the one St. Patrick knelt on for the third part of the night in prayer, as he did another third in his cell, which is called his bed, and another third in the cave or purgatory; in this stone there is a cleft or print, said to be made by St. Patrick's knees; the other stone is much greater and further

   136 IMA6CS AND PICTURES.

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 51

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere close to Station Island, Bishop Henry Jones described this place in 1647. The island called St. Patrick's Purgatory is altogether rocky and rather level. In the water towards the northeast, about two yards from the shore, stand certain rocks. The least of these, nearest the shore, is the one St. Patrick knelt on for the third part of the night in prayer. He spent another third in his cell, which is called his bed, and another third in the cave or purgatory. In this stone there is a cleft or print, said to be made by St. Patrick's knees. The other stone is much greater and further.

8. Cottages beneath the arbutus rock

   Glengarriff · townland · Cork

   Otway contrasts two cottages at Glengarriff beneath a rock covered in arbutus: a tidy Protestant cottage of English descent, and the untidy cottage of an O'Leary of Ivelearagh, described as a 'descendant of princes' living in idleness.

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   extremity of the bay; and directly from the shore rose a perfectly conical congeries of rodra that seemed to be thrown on each other in regular irregolarity nntil they formed a sort of pike or reek resembling a sngar-loaf. Oh, what a London banker would give to have in his grounds such a rock, and such furniture and garnishing as this rock was adorned with! what a profusion of eyergreen trriety ! ! from the close creeping ivy to the loose untamable arbutus, that is nowhere in character and at home except here amidst its companionable rocks. There were two cottages directly under this native habitat of the arbutus. One was the whitewashed abode of a Protestant — it had some of the conveniences, and a few of the comforts that the Protestants of English descent ever contrive to have around them. The other cottage, directly under the hill, was the habitation of a Milesian, one of the O'Learys of Ivelearagh. Never was there such a position for a cottage "omee." If fancy roamed the world wide it could not light on a lovelier spot— ■ such perfect groupings for a landscape — such an entire place of happy repose ; even a common English boor would have felt a pride in*keeping it clean,

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 122

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here, beneath a rock covered in arbutus, there were two cottages. The rock rose straight from the shore of the bay, a cone of stones thrown together in regular irregularity until they formed something like a sugar-loaf. A London banker would give much to have such a rock in his grounds, dressed as it was in evergreen variety from close creeping ivy to the loose, untamable arbutus that is nowhere at home except among companionable rocks like these. One cottage was whitewashed. It belonged to a Protestant of English descent, and had some of the conveniences and a few of the comforts that such people ever contrive to have around them. The other stood directly under the hill. It was the home of one of the O'Learys of Ivelearagh, a Milesian, a descendant of princes living in idleness. Never was there such a position for a cottage home. Even a common English boor would have felt a pride in keeping it clean.

9. The gauger released near Letterkenny after six weeks

   Letterkenny · town · Donegal

   After being kept captive for six weeks on the island, the ganger was finally released, blindfolded and paraded again through the glens before being left on the high road to Letterkenny, from where he returned home safe though his family had feared him dead.

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   island, conveyed him tq shore^ mounted him on the ponj, brought him as before for the length of a day here and there through glen and mountain, and towards the close of the night, the Uberated ganger finds himself alone on the high road to Letterkenny. The poor man returned that night to his family, who had given him over as either murdered, or gone to America. But he stood not as a grimly ghost at the door, but as fat, and sleek, and as happy as ever."

   Now wherefore all this trouble ; why all these pains to catch a ganger, fatten him, and let him loose ? Oh it was of much and important consequence to these poor mountabieers. A lawless act it surely was; but taking into view that it was an act big with consequences affecting their future ruin or prosperity, it might almost be pardonable. Amidst the numerous parliamentary enactments that the revenue department of the country caused to be passed, in order to repress the system of illicit distillation in Ireland, one was a law as contrary to the spirit of the British legislation as to the common principles of equity and conventional right, — a law punishing the innocent in substitution for the guilty. This law made the townland in which the still was

   Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 24

   As the companion tells it

   As you pass through Letterkenny, this is the town where a captured gauger was finally set free. He had been held for six weeks on an island by mountaineers resisting the revenue laws against illicit distillation. When they released him they mounted him on a pony and led him blindfolded through glen and mountain, then towards the close of night left him alone on the high road to Letterkenny. He made it home that night, and his family had given him up for murdered or gone to America. But as the book puts it, he stood at the door not as a grimly ghost but as fat and sleek and as happy as ever. The whole trouble was about the still. The revenue laws included one that punished the innocent in substitution for the guilty, making the townland where a still was found liable. The mountaineers felt that catching a gauger, fattening him, and letting him loose was big with consequences for their future ruin or prosperity. A lawless act, the writer says, but almost pardonable when you take that view.

10. The Wise Woman of the Rosses and the Buried Black Cock

    near The Rosses · locality · Donegal

    To save his son Tommy from convulsions without resorting to the priest, the blacksmith travelled to a wise woman in the mountains beyond the Rosses, who for a golden guinea gave him a black cock to bury alive with a lock of the child's hair and nail parings in a would-be grave.

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    my: so she gave me a black cockth at never crowed,

    and she desired me to take and bury that cock alive

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    Passing through the Rosses, you're in country where a blacksmith once went up into the mountains seeking a wise woman. His son Tommy had convulsions, and he wouldn't call the priest. For a golden guinea she gave him a black cock that never crowed, to bury alive with the child's hair and nail parings in a would-be grave.

11. First sight of Lough Derg and its desolate island

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1839

    Carleton's pilgrim narrative describes the first view of Lough Derg from the hill above, an amphitheatre of bleak mountains surrounding the island with its slated houses and rows of low hovels crowded with pilgrims.

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    f* As soon as we ascended the hill, the whole scene was instantly before us : a large lake, surrounded hy an amphitheatre of mountains, bleak, uncomfortable, and desolate. In the lake itself, about half a mile from the edge next us, was to be seen the * Island,' with two OT three slated houses on it, naked and unplastered, as desolate-looking almost as the mountains. A Uttle range of exceeding low hovels, which the German dwarf could scarcely enter without stooping, appeared to the left; and the eye could rest on nothing more, except a living mass of human beings crawling slowly about like worms on a dead dog. The first thing the pilgrim does when he gets a sight of the lake, is to prostrate himself, kiss the earth, and then on his knees qfer up three Paters and Aves, for the favour of being permitted to see this blessed pla,ce. When this is over, he descends to the lake, and after paying ten pence to the ferryman, is rowed over to the purgatory. When the whole view was presented to me, I stood for some time to contemplate it ; and I cannot better illustrate the reaction which took place in my mind, than by saying that it resembles that awkward inversion which a man's proper body experiences, when, on going to pull some-

    140 APPEARANCE UNROMANTIC.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 53

    As the companion tells it

    This is Lough Derg. In 1839, a traveller climbing the hill above the lake saw the whole scene open at once. A large lake surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, bleak, uncomfortable, and desolate. In the lake, about half a mile from the nearest edge, stood the island, with two or three slated houses on it, naked and unplastered, almost as desolate-looking as the mountains. A little range of exceedingly low hovels appeared to the left, which the German dwarf could scarcely enter without stooping. The eye could rest on nothing else except a living mass of human beings crawling slowly about like worms on a dead dog. The first thing a pilgrim does when he gets sight of the lake is to prostrate himself, kiss the earth, and on his knees offer up three Paters and Aves for the favour of being permitted to see this blessed place. Then he descends to the lake, pays ten pence to the ferryman, and is rowed over to the purgatory. When the whole view was presented, the writer stood for some time to contemplate it. He said he could not better illustrate the reaction in his mind than by saying "it resembles that awkward inversion which a man's proper body experiences, when, on going to pull some"

12. Nine-day fasting pilgrimage regimen at the island

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1647

    Jones's account records that pilgrims remained on the island nine days, eating only once daily on oatmeal and water, and slept on straw wrapped in their mantles, with one night compulsorily spent on a saint's bed.

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    '*In all, the pilgrims remain on the island nine days; they eat hut once in the twenty-four hours, of oatmeal and water. They "have liberty to refresh themselves with the water of the lake, which, as Roth says, *is of such virtue, that though thou shooldst fill thyself with it, yet will it not offend; but is as if it flowed from some mineral.'

    ''The pilgrims at night lodge or lie on straw, without pillow or pallet, rolling themselves in their mantles, and wrapping their heads in their breeches; only on some one of the eight nights they must lie on one of the saints' beds, whichever they like."

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Station Island, where in 1647 pilgrims undertook a nine-day fast. They ate only once a day, oatmeal and water. They had, as the account says, "liberty to refresh themselves with the water of the lake," of such virtue that you could fill yourself with it and it would not offend, as if it flowed from some mineral. At night they slept on straw, no pillow, no pallet, rolling themselves in their mantles and wrapping their heads in their breeches. On one of the eight nights they had to lie on one of the saints' beds, whichever they chose.

13. Protestant desertion and conversion to Catholicism near Adrigole

    Adrigole · townland · Cork · 1789–1839

    The author heard accounts, of uncertain truth, that many local Protestants near the abandoned Adrigole church had converted to Catholicism over the preceding half-century, even including the parish clerk who reportedly stripped and sold the church's own pew timber, blamed on the neglect of careless parsons and the disinterest of landlords.

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    This certainly would be so unlucky a confession from any Protestant minister, that I hope it never took place. But this is quite certain, that many Protestants in this district have within this halfcentury joined the Church of Borne ; and the loyal and high-spirited yeomanry, that the piety and patriotism of the Boyles, &c. &c. had planted in these districts, has, under the neglect of careless

    346 A WORKING WOMAN.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 136

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, many Protestants are said to have joined the Church of Rome within the last half-century. The loyal and high-spirited yeomanry that the piety and patriotism of the Boyles had planted in these districts converted under the neglect of careless parsons and the disinterest of landlords. Even the parish clerk reportedly stripped and sold the church's own pew timber.

14. A Protestant Village on Mulroy Bay

    near Mulroy Bay · bay · Donegal

    The author visited a village composed entirely of Protestants of one family and name, settled on the borders of Mulroy Bay with good land and mountain pasture. They were received with simple kindness and refreshed with oaten bread, butter, and potatoes.

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    tombs, we passed through a Tillage oompoaed entirely of Protestants, and all of one family and name. They hare settled here in their quiet secluded Tillage on the borders of Mulroy bay, with some good land skirting the shore, and a large tract of mountain pasture for their cattle to range on. We went into their houses and were receiTed with much simple kindness, refreshed with the best food they could afford — oaten bread, butter, and potatoes. A fine race of men, a fair family of women, decently clad, sufficiently fed; the ignorance of any thing better than their own state forming their bliss, would it not be cruel to attempt to make them more knowing?

    On the other side of the waters of Mulroy is the peninsula of Fannat, which is bounded on the east by Lough Swilly, and on the west by Mulroy Lough; it is a wild mountain district, subject in many places to the blowing of the sand; but containing a gr^t and increasing population. I understand that the Protestants of that district are blessed with the residence and pastoral labour of a truly pious minister, and that his exertions, his preaching, and example, have had a most beneficial effect on those who attend his instructions. The Romanists,

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    As you travel along Mulroy Bay in Donegal, there is a village the author passed through that was made up entirely of Protestants, all of one family and one name. They had settled here in a quiet, secluded spot on the borders of the bay, with some good land skirting the shore and a large tract of mountain pasture for their cattle to range on. The author went into their houses and was received with much simple kindness, refreshed with the best food they could afford: oaten bread, butter, and potatoes. They were a fine race of men, a fair family of women, decently clad and sufficiently fed. The author wrote that the ignorance of anything better than their own state formed their bliss, and asked, would it not be cruel to attempt to make them more knowing? On the other side of the waters of Mulroy is the peninsula of Fannat, bounded on the east by Lough Swilly and on the west by Mulroy Lough. It is a wild mountain district, subject in many places to the blowing of the sand, but containing a great and increasing population. The Protestants of that district were blessed with the residence and pastoral labour of a truly pious minister, whose exertions, preaching, and example had a most beneficial effect on those who attended his instructions.

15. M'Swine's Gun, the roaring sea-cavern of Horn Head

    near Horn Head · promontory · Donegal

    At Horn Head a natural phenomenon called M'Swine's Gun occurs where a horizontal cavern under the cliff connects to a perpendicular shaft; storm surges force water up through this shaft with a report like artillery, reportedly heard as far as Derry.

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    cavern, and whenever the gale is most fitfiil, and an immense surge beats in, up flies the water through the perpendicular shaft, like the Geiser spring in Iceland, some hundreds of feet high, accompanied with a report louder than any piece of artillery, and the shot of M'Swine's Gun is asserted to have been heard in the city of Deny.

    85

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 32

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Horn Head lies M'Swine's Gun, a sea-cavern with a perpendicular shaft. When a gale drives a great surge in, the water flies up through the shaft, hundreds of feet high, like the Geiser in Iceland. It comes with a report louder than any artillery, and is said to have been heard in Derry.

16. Naval action off Torry Island, 1798

    Tory Island · townland · Donegal · 1798

    Sir John B. Warren intercepted a French fleet carrying troops and rebel chieftains off Torry Island in 1798, capturing them and ending French support for the rebellion after the Killala landing.

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    * Off this island Sir John B. Warren, in 1798, encountered a French fleet, with troops and rebel chieftains on board, and capturing them all, he crushed the hopes of the French army that landed at Killala, and broke the spirits and the cause of the rebels who had joined them.

    I was sorry that it was out of my power to visit Torry Island. It is about twelve miles from shore, and I am informed that it is an interesting spot Here are the ruins of a fortress, erected by £rick of the red nrta, one of the Norwegian Sea Kings, whose roving rule extended around these isles and coasts. The name of this island is of Runick etymology, and

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Tory Island, in 1798, Sir John B. Warren intercepted a French fleet carrying troops and rebel chieftains, capturing them and ending French support for the rebellion after the Killala landing. The island holds the ruins of a fortress raised by one of the Norwegian Sea Kings, whose roving rule extended around these isles and coasts. Its name comes from Runic etymology.

17. Pilgrims walking the rounds and worshipping in the chapel

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal

    An eyewitness account describes pilgrims walking sunwise around a building, praying fervently in the chapel with beads and crucifix, and subsisting on bread and water blessed by the priest.

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    ''The island is about half a mile from the shore ; on approaching it we found all the people walking round one of the buildings in the direction of the sun.

    "There are two chapels, one for confession, and another for general worship. In the former no strangers are admitted; but on entering the latter by one of the galleries, a mighty multitude of the most apparently devout worshippers I ever beheld, presented themselves. All were kneeling except the choir, and every one busy for himself, without the smallest interruption from his neighbour. The only instruments , they used were their beads, crucifix, and manual. Their food is a small quantity of bread, which they bring into the island with them, and water, which, by the prieaf 8 blessing y is supposed to be made equally nutritive as wine. They take this only once a day.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 50

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Station Island in Donegal, pilgrims have long come to walk and pray. An observer approaching the island found all the people walking round one of the buildings in the direction of the sun. There are two chapels, one for confession and another for general worship. No strangers were admitted to the first. Entering the second, the observer saw a mighty multitude of devout worshippers, all kneeling except the choir, every one busy for himself without the smallest interruption from his neighbour. The only instruments they used were their beads, crucifix, and manual. Their food was a small quantity of bread brought onto the island, and water which by the priest's blessing was supposed to be made equally nutritive as wine. They took this only once a day.

18. Second twenty-four hour fasting station

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    On the second day pilgrims performed a second station of the sharp-stone circuits while fasting entirely for twenty-four hours, sustained only by lukewarm lake water called 'wine'.

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    '' When morning came, the blessed light of the sun broke the leaden charm of the prison, and in^ed into us a wonderful portion of j&esh vigour. This day being the second from our arrival, we had our second station to perform^ and consequently all the sharp spikes to re-traverse. We are not permitted at all to taste food during these twenty-four hours, so that our weakness was really very great. I beg leave, however, to return my special acknowledgments for the truly hospitable allowance of wine, with which I, in common with every other pilgrim, was treated. This wine is made by filling a large pot with the lake water, and making it lukewarm.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 59

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Station Island, pilgrims performed a second fasting station in 1839. When morning came, the sun broke what the writer calls "the leaden charm of the prison," filling them with fresh vigour. This was the second day from arrival, so they had a second station to perform, and all the sharp spikes to re-traverse. They were not permitted to taste food during these twenty-four hours, and the weakness was very great. Yet the writer gives thanks for the truly hospitable allowance of wine given to every pilgrim. This wine was made by filling a large pot with lake water and making it lukewarm.

19. The Salmon of Knowledge's Pool near Croagh Patrick

    near Croagh Patrick · mountain or mountain range · Mayo

    A druid tells King Cormac that a magical salmon dwelling in a deep pool near Croagh Patrick, where a river vanishes into a cavern, will grant wisdom and fortune to whoever eats it. Cormac travels to this pool in Connaught to seek the fish.

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    western land, uoir called Ifayi^ and not &r from tkat 1q% mountain, now named Ctoagfa Pktriek; there was a salmon wlndik if eanght and eaten, weoid Gommniueate such wisdom, prowess, and good foi^ tune to the eater, thiri: from that dqr forth, fiimii and pio^rity would attend hun m all his wars. You may be smre Cormae lost no time in setting out on his fishing excursioa into Connaught, and, attending to the directions of his adviser, he came to the banks of a river that rises in the mountain Am surrounding the reek of Croagh Patrick, and pursuing that riTer'9 course through a fertile vaUey, he at length came te where that turbident stream ftlls into a fearful cavern, and is lost to be seen no vsorei and whether it seeks by some unknown passage the depths of the ocean, or whether it plunges into earth's abyss and goes to cool the raging of its central fires, was never yet ascertained ; but close to the jaws of this engnlphing cavern there is a dark, deep pool where the stream, as if in terror, whirls about in rapid eddies, and hare^ amidst multitudes of fish, it was supposed the sahnon of knowledge spent its days. On the banks of this pool Covmac and his Caledonian adviser sat day after day, and complain

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 70

    As the companion tells it

    Near Croagh Patrick, there is a story of a salmon that held wisdom and fortune. A druid told King Cormac that close to this mountain, there lived a salmon, and whoever caught it and ate it would receive wisdom, prowess, and good fortune. From that day forth, fame and victory would attend him in all his wars. Cormac lost no time. He set out on his fishing excursion into Connaught, following the directions of his adviser. He came to a river that rises in the mountain surrounding the reek of Croagh Patrick. He followed that river's course through a fertile valley, until he reached the place where the stream falls into a fearful cavern and is lost, never to be seen again. Whether it seeks some unknown passage to the ocean depths, or plunges into earth's abyss to cool the raging of central fires, was never ascertained. Close to the jaws of that cavern there is a dark, deep pool, where the stream whirls about in rapid eddies, as if in terror. Amidst multitudes of fish, the salmon of knowledge was supposed to spend its days. Cormac and his Caledonian adviser sat on the banks of that pool, day after day.

20. The Shifting Location of Patrick's Purgatory

    near Saint's Island · townland · Clare

    The clerk of the purgatory revealed that the current pilgrimage island was not the original site consecrated by St. Patrick, pointing instead to Saint's Island to the north as the true site where Patrick opened a passage to the real purgatory underground.

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    Before we landed I ascertained from my cautious conductor, that the present purgatorial island which we had just left, was not the one always resorted to, nor indeed the one that was consecrated by Saint Pftrtrick; and as it appears that the Romish schoolmen are not agreed as to the precise spot where purgatory is located, so the Romish priesthood, until that knotty poiQt is settled, have arrogated to themselves the right of changing the position of Patrick's Purgatory. The clerk of the purgatory confessed that the present island has been used for that purpose, but comparatively at a late period; and he pointed out an island due north of the

    164 whtI

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 63

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here lies what may be the true site of Patrick's Purgatory. A traveller once learned from the clerk of the purgatory that the island pilgrims had just left was not the one consecrated by Saint Patrick. That clerk confessed the present island had been used only at a comparatively late period. He pointed out an island due north as the original place, where Patrick was said to have opened a passage to the real purgatory underground. The priesthood, it seems, had taken it upon themselves to move the location of Patrick's Purgatory while the schoolmen argued over where purgatory truly lay. Close to Saint's Island, then, may stand the ground Patrick first hallowed.

21. Entering the Prison chapel at night

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1839

    The pilgrim enters the dimly candlelit chapel called the Prison, where two priests stood pale and spectral on the altar amid an eerie religious twilight.

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    '' On entering the prison I was struck with the dim religious twilight of the place. Two candles gleamed faintly from the altar, and there was something I thought of a deadly light about them, as they burned feebly and stilly against the darkness which hung over the other part of the building. Two

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 56

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Station Island stands a chapel called the Prison. In 1839 a pilgrim entered and was struck by the dim religious twilight of the place. Two candles gleamed faintly from the altar, burning feebly and stilly against the darkness over the rest of the building. He thought there was something of a deadly light about them.

22. Station Island Compared to a Toll-House Settlement

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal

    Viewing Station Island in Lough Derg from a ridge, Otway describes it not as a venerable monastic ruin but as a collection of hideous slated houses and cabins resembling toll-houses, erected by priestcraft to tax pilgrims.

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    houses and cabins, which give you an idea that they were rather erected for the recent purposes of tollhouses or police stations than any thing else; and true it is, they were nothing else but toll-houses which priestcraft had erected to tax its deluded Totaries. I was certainly in an interesting position. I looked southerly towards Lough Erne, with the Protestant city of Enniskillen rising amidst its waters, like the island queen of all the loyalty, and industry, and reasonable worship that have made her sons the admiration of past and present time; and before me, to the north, Lough Derg, with its far-famed isle, * reposing there as the monstrous birth of a dreaiy and degraded superstition, the enemy of mental cultivation, and destined to keep the human understanding in the same dark unproductive state as the moorland waste that lay outstretched around. I was soon joined by my guide and by two men carrying oars, with whom I descended from the ridge on which I was perched, towards the shores of the lake, where there was a sort of boat, or rather toll-house, where the pilgrims paid a certain sum before they were permitted to embark for the island. In a few minutes we were afloat; and while sitting in the boat I ha^

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 48

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here is Station Island in Lough Derg. A traveller named Otway came to a ridge and looked out over the lake. He did not see a venerable monastic ruin. He saw houses and cabins, slated and hideous, that looked more like toll-houses or police stations than anything holy. In his words, they were "toll-houses which priestcraft had erected to tax its deluded votaries." He stood on that ridge and looked south toward Lough Erne, where the Protestant city of Enniskillen rose among the waters. He called it the island queen of loyalty, industry, and reasonable worship. Then he looked north to Lough Derg and its far-famed island. He called it the monstrous birth of a dreary and degraded superstition, the enemy of mental cultivation, meant to keep the human understanding in the same dark state as the moorland waste stretched out around it. Soon his guide joined him, and two men carrying oars. They came down from the ridge toward the shore of the lake. There was a sort of boat, or rather a toll-house, where pilgrims paid a certain sum before they were allowed to embark for the island. In a few minutes they were afloat.

23. St Columbkill's Curse on Vermin in Fannat

    near Fanad · locality · Donegal

    Tradition held that St Columbkill stood on a rock in Fannat and, with bell, book, and holy candle, cursed all the rats, mice, and earth-worms in the peninsula, so that none could be found there, and even churchyard graves held no worms.

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    as I am mfonned« are a most bigoted and superstitious race, given up to well-worship and saint adora*- tion. St. Colmnbkill has done wonders for them. I was told of a rock in this district on which the gloTj of Tyrconnel stood, and where he was determined to out-Herod St. Patrick — ^who, good-natured as he was, only sent all the snakes and toads arpacking from Croagh Patrick; but upon this rock St« Cokimbkill mounted, and, with bell and book, not forgetting the hghting of a holy candle, he cursed all the rats, mice, and earth-worms in Fannat — ^not a tail of a rat, if you gave its weight in gold for it, could be got in the peninsula — ^the cats were laid aside as sinecurists. Mrs. Florinda M'Swine, a venerable virgin lady, was the only possessor of a grimalkin in the parish, and she retained it more for curiosity than convenience — ^nay, more than that, there was not one earth-worm in the church-yard where the Catholics were interred. Old Johnny M'Alister, the sexton, declared, that in opening a fresh grave, and when he trundled up a skulls

    neither

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 35

    As the companion tells it

    Fanad in Donegal has a tradition about St Columbkill. The people here were said to be a superstitious race, devoted to well-worship and saint adoration, and St Columbkill did wonders for them. The story goes that there is a rock in this district on which the saint stood. He was determined to outdo St Patrick, who only banished the snakes and toads from Croagh Patrick. Columbkill mounted the rock with bell and book, and lit a holy candle, and cursed all the rats, mice, and earth-worms in Fannat. After that, not a tail of a rat could be found in the whole peninsula, not for its weight in gold. Cats were useless. Mrs Florinda M'Swine, a venerable virgin lady, was the only person in the parish who kept a cat, and that more for curiosity than convenience. There was not one earth-worm in the Catholic churchyard either. Old Johnny M'Alister, the sexton, declared that when he opened a fresh grave and turned up a skull, there were no worms in it.

24. The Abbot's white rod ceremony at Kilmacrenan

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal

    An alternative, more dignified account describes the Abbot O'Ferghail presenting the new chieftain with a pure white unknotted rod at Kilmacrenan, symbolizing justice and incorruptibility in his rule.

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    lus marshal, and sorroimded by all the estates of the country. The Abbot O'Ferghail put a pure, white, straight, unknotted rod in his hand, and said, '' Receive, Sire, the auspicious ensign of your dignity, and remember to imitate in your government the whiteness, straightness, and unknottiness of this rod, to the end that no evil tongue may find cause to asperse the candour of your actions with blackness, nor any kind of corruption, or tie of Mendship, be able to pervert your justice; therefore, in a lucky hour, take the government of this people, to exercise the power given you with freedom and security." This, to be sure, is quite a different story, and it is not for me to decide which is true; but this must be said, that the EngUsh in all their communications and treaties with the 0*Donnels, found them, as Sir Heniy Dockwra described, ** Proud, valiant, miserable, tyrannous, unmeasurably covetous, without any knowledge of Grod, without any civility towards man;'* and James I, in a declaration which he published Nov. 4th, 1607, says, ''that their condition was, to think murder no fault, marriage of no use, nor any man valiant that does not glory in rapine and oppression." If James spoke truth, it were not

    26 THE FATS OF 0*DOHERTY.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 10

    As the companion tells it

    Kilmacrenan in Donegal was where the O'Donnell chieftains received their authority, and one account of that ceremony gives it a dignity the others lack. The new chieftain stood before the Abbot O'Ferghail, surrounded by all the estates of the country. The abbot placed a pure, white, straight, unknotted rod in his hand and spoke to him. He said, Receive, Sire, the auspicious ensign of your dignity, and remember to imitate in your government the whiteness, straightness, and unknottiness of this rod. The whiteness stood for the candour of his actions, that no evil tongue might blacken them. The straightness and the absence of knots meant that no corruption, no tie of friendship, should pervert his justice. The abbot told him to take the government of the people in a lucky hour, and to exercise his power with freedom and security. The writer notes this is a different story from others told, and does not decide which is true. But he adds what the English said of the O'Donnells. Sir Henry Dockwra called them proud, valiant, miserable, tyrannous, unmeasurably covetous, without knowledge of God or civility towards man. James I, in a declaration of November 4th, 1607, said they thought murder no fault, marriage of no use, and no man valiant who did not glory in rapine and oppression.

25. The Giant's Grave on the mountain ridge above Mulroy Bay

    near Mulroy Bay · bay · Donegal

    On a mountain ridge about two miles from Mulroy Bay's shore stood a place called the Giant's Grave, consisting of two long stone coffin-like structures made of immense joined stones and covered with flagstones, one about thirty-four feet long. Local Protestant inhabitants could give no account of their origin beyond calling them giants' graves.

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    would be improved, cherished, and resorted to; but here no one comes. The cormorants, the curlews, and the sandpipers stood on the rocks over these solitary waters, and seemed to wonder what brought two beings in the garb of gentlemen to molest their loneliness. Adjoining this water, on a mountainridge about two miles oflF from the shore, my friend brought me to see a place called the Giant's Grave. We walked up to it through a wet and mossy mountain, and on the summit of the ridge, in the middle of the moor, and surrounded by a peat-bog, were two long caves, or rather troughs, composed of immense stones, joined in the shape of coffins, and covered over with large flag stones; one of these cofiins was about thirty-four, and the other about twenty feet long, and from four to six feet broad. I could obtain no account from the inhabitants, who were Protestants, of the origin or use of these strange formations. They said they knew nothing about them, but that they were giants' graves. I never in any mountain district of Ireland saw any thing similar, and ever since I have been puzzling my brain how to account for them. I remember some years ago having found a vitrified fort on the top of

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    Near Mulroy Bay, on a mountain ridge about two miles from the shore, there is a place called the Giant's Grave. A traveller and his friend walked up to it through a wet and mossy mountain. On the summit of the ridge, in the middle of the moor, surrounded by a peat-bog, they found two long caves, or rather troughs, composed of immense stones joined in the shape of coffins and covered over with large flagstones. One of these coffins was about thirty-four feet long, and the other about twenty feet long, and from four to six feet broad. The inhabitants, who were Protestants, could give no account of the origin or use of these strange formations. They said they knew nothing about them, but that they were giants' graves. The traveller wrote that he never in any mountain district of Ireland saw anything similar, and that ever since he had been puzzling his brain how to account for them. The place stood by solitary waters where cormorants, curlews, and sandpipers stood on the rocks, and seemed to wonder what brought two beings in the garb of gentlemen to molest their loneliness.

26. The six saints' beds of penance

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1647

    Towards the narrow part of the island stood six stone circles known as saints' beds or beds of penance, surrounded by sharp stones, where pilgrims prayed and knelt continually, often barefoot.

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    "Towards the narrowest part of the island were six circles — some call them saints' beds, or beds of penance. Pilgrims are continually praying aud kneeling about these beds; and they are compassed around with sharp stones and difficult passages for the accommodation of such as go barefooted.

    " In the farthest part northward of the island, are certain beds of stone cast together as memorials for Siome that are elsewhere buried; but who trust to the prayers and merits of those who daily resort to this Purgatory. Lastly, in this island are several Irish cabins covered with thatch, and another for shriving or confession; and there are separate

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 52

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on Station Island, stood six stone circles that some call saints' beds, or beds of penance. They lay towards the narrowest part of the island. Pilgrims were continually praying and kneeling about these beds. They were compassed around with sharp stones and difficult passages, for the accommodation of those who went barefooted. In the farthest part northward of the island were certain beds of stone cast together as memorials for the dead who are elsewhere buried, but who trust to the prayers and merits of those who daily resort to this place. There were also several Irish cabins covered with thatch, and another for shriving or confession.

27. Copinger's visit and the furnished church of St. Patrick

    near Station Island · townland · Donegal · 1647

    When gentleman visitor Mr. Copinger came to the island, he found a shingle-roofed church dedicated to St. Patrick containing an altar, images of Our Lady, the three kings, the crucifixion, and old worm-eaten images of St. Patrick, St. Arioge, and St. Volusianus.

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    ''The entrance into the island is narrow and rocky; these rocks they report to be the guts of a great serpent metamorphosed into stones. When Mr. Copinger, a gentleman drawn thither by the fame of the place, visited it, there was a church covered with shingles dedicated to St. Patrick, and it was thus furnished: at the east end was a high altar covered with linen, over which did hang the image of our Lady with our Saviour in her arms; on the right did hang the picture of the three kings offering their presents to our Saviour; and on the left the picture of onr Saviour on the cross; near the altar, and on the south side, did stand on the ground an old worm-eaten image of St. Patrick; aUd behind the altar was another of the same fabric, but still older in appearance, called St. Arioge; and on the right hand another image called St. Yolusianus.

    " Between the church and the cave there is a

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 51

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on Station Island, a visitor named Mr. Copinger came in 1647, drawn by the fame of the place. He found a church dedicated to St. Patrick, covered with shingles. The entrance to the island was narrow and rocky, and they say those rocks are the guts of a great serpent turned to stone. Inside the church, at the east end, stood a high altar covered with linen. Over it hung the image of Our Lady with our Saviour in her arms. On the right hung a picture of the three kings offering their presents to our Saviour. On the left hung a picture of our Saviour on the cross. Near the altar, on the south side, stood on the ground an old worm-eaten image of St. Patrick. Behind the altar was another image of the same fabric but still older in appearance, called St. Arioge. And on the right hand stood another image called St. Volusianus.

28. Druidical stone circle and standing pillars above Dunmanus Bay

    near Dunmanus Bay · bay · Cork

    Descending toward Dunmanus Bay, the author finds a druidical circle of upright rocks with a fine view, and two fifteen-foot standing stone pillars nearby, locally called 'the dance of the strange children,' associated with the legendary Tuatha Dé Danaan.

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    rocks. From the position of this circle of Loda, as Ossian would call it^ there is a magnificent nuiiintain and sea view, and at a short distance from the circle, are t^o upright pillars of stone, somewhat like ohelisks, about fifteen feet high. Such straight upright shafts of stone are often connected with, and seem to belong to the arrangements of that now obscure superstition that raised these circles, and which in some parts of Ireland are called Fin M^CouFs fingers. I asked a man who was ploughing in an adjoining field, what placed these stones there ? He said, that all he knew about them was, that the old people called them "the dance of the strange children." These, our longsighted antiquarians, would pronounce to be the Tuatha Danaan, who, dwelling originally in Greece, on a fine day took a short sail from thence to Norway or Lochhn, in order to learn the art of magic; to raise circles of power to Loda, and call up magical mists to confound and enyelope their enemies. Haying acquired all this knowledge, they came and settled in Ireland, where they amused themselves raising stone circles, and setting up rocking-stones and cromleachs, until, in an evil hour, for them, and perhaps for the world, the swaggering, bragging.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 95

    As the companion tells it

    As the road comes near Dunmanus Bay, there is a druidical circle of upright rocks, with a magnificent mountain and sea view. A short distance from the circle stand two upright pillars of stone, like obelisks, about 15 feet high. Straight upright shafts like these are often connected with the arrangements of that now obscure superstition that raised these circles, and in some parts of Ireland are called Fin M'Coul's fingers. The author asked a man ploughing in an adjoining field what placed these stones there. The man said all he knew was that the old people called them, in his words, "the dance of the strange children." Antiquarians would pronounce these to be the Tuatha Danaan, who, dwelling originally in Greece, on a fine day took a short sail to Norway or Lochlin to learn the art of magic, to raise circles of power to Loda and call up magical mists to confound and envelope their enemies. Having acquired all this knowledge, they came and settled in Ireland, where they amused themselves raising stone circles and setting up rocking-stones and cromleachs, until, in an evil hour for them, and perhaps for the world, the swaggering, bragging.

29. The Castellated Ruin and Rapin the Historian

    near Barnesmore · pass · Donegal

    At the northern entrance of the gap stands a square castellated ruin, built during King James's war, where the Huguenot historian Rapin was said to have compiled his history. Otway later notes this tradition has no foundation.

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    Just at the northern entrance of the pass you observe asquare sort of castellated ruin on a position commanding the defile. It was erected in Eling James's war, and here it is said that Eapin, one of those French Huguenots who did William such good mihtary serlice, and who have been beneficial to eveiy country where they took refuge — ^here it is said this honest and impartial historian compiled his voluminous history.* But no matter when the grey and massy walls of this old fort were built, or who were its successive keepers; the defile itself has seen many a warrior and many a plunderer pass for battle or for prey, through its open mouth. Often through it have the clans of O'Neill and O'Donnell rushed to join Maguire of Fermanagh, in attacking the EngUshfor-

    * I have since heard that there is no foundation wbatsoerer ^or this tradition. 1839.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Barnesmore, a square castellated ruin stands on a position commanding the defile. It was erected in King James's war, and here it is said that Rapin, one of those French Huguenots who did William good military service, compiled his voluminous history. He was an honest and impartial historian, one of those beneficial to every country where they took refuge. But Otway notes the tradition has no foundation. No matter when the grey and massy walls were built, or who its successive keepers were, the defile has seen many a warrior and many a plunderer pass through its open mouth, for battle or for prey. Often the clans of O'Neill and O'Donnell rushed through it to join Maguire of Fermanagh, in attacking the English.

30. The Legend of the Hag with the Finger and Lough Derg's Naming

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    According to local tradition, Lough Derg was originally called Lough Fin after Fin M'Coul but was renamed 'the Red Lough' after a bloody battle involving a witch called the Hag with the Finger, who brewed poisons and terrorized Ireland with her giant son.

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    "Oh, indeed, sir/' and mind here, reader, I pray you, that my memory does not serve me to give the following story exactly in the boy's words: *' that is not the reason I have heard the old people give: formerly, I hear say, it was called Lough Fin, or Fin M'Coul's Lough, but afterwards it was called Lough Derg, or the Bed Lough; and the reason of that, as I have heard, is, that once upon a time, long ago, there was an old wicked witch of a woman who had a great big giant of a son; and the whole of their evil days they spent in contriving how much mischief they could do in Ireland. The witch was knowledgeable in all the bad herbs in the country.

    166 THE POISON BRSWIN6 WITCH.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 64

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Derg in Donegal was not always called by that name. Local tradition says it was once Lough Fin, after Fin M'Coul. The old name gave way to Lough Derg, the Red Lough, because of a bloody battle fought there long ago. The story tells of a wicked witch called the Hag with the Finger, who had a great big giant of a son. The two of them spent their evil days contriving how much mischief they could do in Ireland. The witch was knowledgeable in all the bad herbs in the country. She brewed poisons, and together they terrorized the land until a battle reddened the lake and gave it the name it bears now.

31. Attack in the passage of the Lee by Teige McCarthy

    near River Lee · river · Cork · 1602

    During O'Sullivan's perilous retreat through Muskerry, the turncoat Teige McCarthy, loyal to no party, attacked the fleeing confederates at the passage of the Lee, causing them to lose some of their best men.

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    In the mean while O'SuUivan, William Burke, and O'Connor Kerry had set out on their perilous retreat — ^they took their way through Murdering-glen and around the foot of Ivelearagh mountains, and through the district of Muskerry. That uncertain turncoat, Teige McCarthy, safe with no man, and true to no party, attacked them in the passage of the Lee, and they lost some of their best men. John Barry of Buttevant, who was neither fish nor flesh —

    330 o'svllivan's retreat,

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 131

    As the companion tells it

    The River Lee flows through this part of Cork. In 1602, O'Sullivan, William Burke, and O'Connor Kerry set out on their perilous retreat. They took their way through Murdering-glen and around the foot of Ivelearagh mountains, through the district of Muskerry. Teige McCarthy, safe with no man and true to no party, attacked them in the passage of the Lee. They lost some of their best men. John Barry of Buttevant was neither fish nor flesh.

32. Forts built at Valentia and Kenmare to suppress O'Sullivan

    near Valencia Island · island or archipelago · Kerry · 1652

    Following the defeat at Ballinskelligs, the English government erected a fort on Valentia Island in Iveragh and another at Kenmare (Nedeen) in Glanerought, garrisoned with strong English troops to suppress O'Sullivan.

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    Action, and about as many wounded, Amongst "whom was their courageous commander, much lamented by his party, as he was unable to serve afterwards. The field of battle and the strand, ever since have gone by the name of the English Garden and Strand. The English government having got an account of this action, a fort was erected in the Island of Valentia in Iveraiagh, and another at Nedeen, in Glanerough, which were furnished with strong English garrisons, in order to suppress O* Sullivan.

    Meantime the Earl of Inchiquin, as also Lord Kerry, and other true friends to O* Sullivan, used their best interest and best offices, for peace and good conditions for him, and thereby a cessation of arms was agreed on, so that no hostilities on either side were committed for three years ; but the overtures at last proved abortive, as O* Sullivan had no other offers made him but some thousand acres, to which he would not agree, or for anything less than his estates, and those of his adherents. Instead of which the governor of the county had strict orders to take all opportunities of invading Ms small district ; to which purpose Captain Gibbons, governor of Nedeen, furnishing himself as privately as possible with many boats, embarked with about two hundred men from his fort. O* Sullivan being apprised of this invasion, collected his small party near Glenbeagh, and divided them into three divisions — one hundred led by himself towards Ballinaskelligs — another by an experienced officer, towards Sneem, and three companies by Captain Owen O* Sullivan of Capananoss, and Captain Brennan, (who had been in the action at Ballinaskelligs,) towards the harbour of Poulnanarragh. Governor Gibbons landed in the night before him, and marched with nine-score men towards the river Curane. But, as most of the inhabitants had some notice of his landing, he did not meet with many of them ; but next morning he drove all the cattle of the neighbourhood, and took all the booty he could get car* riage for, to the banks of the harbour. At which time the Irish party arrived at a hill above the fort, near a church called Crocane ; whereupon the English shouted, and challenged for battle, and drew themselves up in

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

    As the companion tells it

    After a battle at Ballinskelligs, where their courageous commander was wounded and much lamented by his party, the field and strand ever since went by the name of the English Garden and Strand. The English government, having got an account of this action, erected a fort on Valentia Island in Iveragh, and another at Nedeen in Glanerought, both furnished with strong English garrisons, to suppress O'Sullivan. The Earl of Inchiquin and Lord Kerry, true friends to O'Sullivan, used their best offices for peace. A cessation of arms was agreed on, and no hostilities were committed on either side for three years. But the overtures proved abortive. O'Sullivan had no other offers made him but some thousand acres, which he would not agree to, or for anything less than his estates and those of his adherents. The governor of the county had strict orders to take all opportunities of invading his small district. Captain Gibbons, governor of Nedeen, furnished himself as privately as possible with many boats and embarked with about 200 men from his fort. O'Sullivan, apprised of this invasion, collected his small party near Glenbeagh and divided them into three divisions. 100 he led himself towards Ballinaskelligs. Another was led by an experienced officer towards Sneem. Three companies went under Captain Owen O'Sullivan of Capananoss and Captain Brennan, who had been in the action at Ballinskelligs, towards the harbour of Poulnanarragh. Governor Gibbons landed in the night and marched with nine-score men towards the river Curane. Most of the inhabitants had some notice of his landing, so he did not meet with many of them. Next morning he drove all the cattle of the neighbourhood and took all the booty he could get carriage for, to the banks of the harbour. The Irish party arrived at a hill above the fort, near a church called Crocane. The English shouted and challenged for battle, and drew themselves up.

33. Lough Derg's Dean Cashiered Under Papal Authority (1497)

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1497

    The Annals of Ulster record that the Dean of St. Patrick's Purgatory in Lough Derg was cashiered by the guardian of Donegal and sent to the deanery of Lough Erne by papal authority, as people came to understand from ancient books that this was not the true purgatory of Patrick.

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    '* The Dean of St. Patrick's Purgatory in Lough Derg was in this year cashiered by the guardian of Donegal, and sent by the bishop, under the authority of the Pope, to the deanerie of Lough £m on St. Patrick's day; the people understanding out of the book of the Knight, and other ancient books, that

    * Whoever wants to see a bigot historian's account of Lough Derg, and the incidents connected with its purgatory, let him consult Philip O' Sullivan's Catholic History of Ireland, where he will see a most savoury and veracious narrative of what happened to a Spanish viscQunt

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 60

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Derg, in Donegal. In 1497 the Dean of St. Patrick's Purgatory here was cashiered by the guardian of Donegal and sent by the bishop, under the authority of the Pope, to the deanery of Lough Erne on St. Patrick's day. People had understood from the book of the Knight and other ancient books that this was not the true Purgatory of Patrick.

34. The 'dumb church' at Adrigole abandoned to ruin

    Adrigole · townland · Cork · 1815–1839

    Near Adrigole stood a Protestant church, built and consecrated by the primate only ten or twelve years earlier, that had already fallen into total ruin with broken windows, torn-off shutters and a stripped roof, having no service and being let to decay; the author climbed in through a window to find only the pulpit still intact.

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    " Why it is a church lately built and consecrated; but which has now no service in it, and is let to go to neglect and ruin.''

    ^^ And how long is this church built, for it, at this distance, from its position, colour, and elevation^ appears to be quite a modem structore V*

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 135

    As the companion tells it

    Close to Adrigole stood a Protestant church, consecrated only ten or twelve years before 1815, yet already ruined. Windows broken, shutters torn, roof stripped. He climbed in through a window and found the pulpit intact. It was, he wrote, "lately built and consecrated; but which has now no service in it, and is let to go to neglect and ruin."

35. The Guide Boy's Loss of Schooling at Petigo

    Pettigo · town · Donegal

    Otway's fourteen-year-old guide, who earned pennies holding horses at Lough Derg station, explained he could not read because the priest removed him from the Protestant school and sent him to a chapel school that later closed, leaving him without education.

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    '' Och, indeed, sir, but it is a pity; and after all it is not my fault: my mother, who is a poor widy, cannot afford to pay for my schooling, and I went for a time to the Protestant school; but the priest, God bless him, took me away from it, and sent me to a school in the chapel, which he set up to take away the scholars from the Protestant school; but,

    HIS KNOWLEDGE. 127

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

    As the companion tells it

    Pettigo was where Otway met a 14-year-old guide who earned pennies holding horses at Lough Derg station. The boy could not read. His mother was a poor widow who could not pay for schooling. He went for a time to the Protestant school, but the priest, "God bless him," took him away and sent him to a school in the chapel, set up to draw scholars from the Protestant school. The chapel school closed, leaving him without education.

36. The rocking stone on the road to Lough Salt

    near Lough Salt · lake or lakes · Donegal

    On the road to Lough Salt, amid a district of immense red granite blocks, the author and his friend found a huge rocking stone that could be moved to and fro by a single person's push, though a hundred men could not shift it from its place.

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    district^ covered with immense blocks of red granite; this district, composed of this granite formation, extends to the foot of Lough Salt, and blocks of any size, and pillars of any length, could be procured of granite, as compact in texture, as fine in colour, and capable of as perfect a polish as Pompey's pillar, and the sea at hand to carry away this beautiful material for ornamental architecture, to the Liffey or Thames. On the road to Lough Salt, some days after, as we passed an immense block of this red granite, my fiiend alighted, and putting his shoulder to the rock, it moved slowly to and fro. Twas surprised, and alighting from my horse, moved it also with perfect ease, — a child might have done the same ; but one hundred men could not have moved it out of its place. It was what is called a rocking-stone; whether it was consecrated to the rites of Druidical worship, or whether it was ever admitted into the superstitious observances of the people, I could not ascertain.

    We proceeded to Glen Yeagh, and at length reached it after a very deep descent. We were delighted with the beautiM water, winding far between immense mountains, and apparently without end, losing itself in gloom and solitariness amidst the

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 20

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Salt in Donegal lies in a country of immense red granite blocks. The granite runs all the way to the foot of the lake, and the stone is compact in texture, fine in colour, and capable of as perfect a polish as Pompey's pillar, with the sea close by to carry it away to the Liffey or the Thames for ornamental architecture. On the road to the lake, the author and his friend passed one great block of this red granite. His friend alighted and put his shoulder to the rock, and it moved slowly to and fro. The author was surprised. He alighted from his horse and moved it also with perfect ease. A child might have done the same. But 100 men could not have moved it out of its place. It was what is called a rocking-stone. Whether it was consecrated to the rites of Druidical worship, or whether it was ever admitted into the superstitious observances of the people, he could not ascertain. From there they proceeded to Glen Yeagh, reaching it after a very deep descent, delighted with the beautiful water winding far between immense mountains, apparently without end, losing itself in gloom and solitariness.

37. Ancient Steatite Carvings at Kilmacrenan Abbey

    Kilmacrenan · town · Donegal

    The old Abbey of Kilmacrenan, said to be built by Columbkill and one of the oldest buildings in Ireland, used steatite stone to form a beautiful east window, now destroyed, with carved fragments scattered as headstones in the churchyard, their edges still sharp after some seven hundred years.

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    for I obsenred it emi^ojed in abimdance in the old Abbey of Kilmacrenan, said to be built by Columbkill — at all events this abbey is evidently one of the oldest buildings in Ireland, and here it was used to form a beautiful east window^ which is now thrown down and destroyed,, but still a great deal of its carved interlacings and fretted work cut out of this cam stone (as it is here called) lie scattered about the church-yard as head-stones to graves; and the angles are just as sharp, and the carvings as accurate, as the day ihej were chiselled: a friend of mine cut off a bas-relief, representing a tiger ptusantt from a solid block of this stone, with a common hand-saw, and he said it was easier to him than if he wrought on so much wood of the same diameter. This bas-relief must have been chiselled at least seven hundred years ago. There are many valuable lead and copper mines also in this country; also in some of its larger rivers pearls of a considerable size and fine colour are found.

    HI

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Kilmacrenan, the old abbey here is said to have been built by Columbkill, and at the very least it is one of the oldest buildings in Ireland. A beautiful east window once stood in its wall, formed from steatite, the stone they call cam stone in this country. That window is thrown down and destroyed now. But a great deal of its carved interlacings and fretted work still lies scattered about the churchyard, used as headstones over graves. The angles are just as sharp and the carvings as accurate as the day they were chiselled. A friend of the writer cut a bas-relief from a solid block of this stone with a common hand-saw, and said it was easier than working the same amount of wood. That bas-relief showed a tiger pheasant, and it must have been chiselled at least 700 years ago. There are lead and copper mines in this country too, and pearls of fine colour and considerable size found in some of the larger rivers.

38. Ascent of Lough Salt Mountain

    near Lough Salt · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1822

    The author and his friend rode ponies up an ancient causeway road to the summit of Lough Salt Mountain, once the only route from Derry to the north-western Donegal coast. At the top they found a lake filling a crater-like hollow beneath the mountain's highest quartz peak.

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    Directly behind my friend's house rose a mountain^ the loftiest of the chain — ^bare, rugged, its sharp white silicious peaks glittering in the sunshine. " What is this mountain called, it is the monarch of these hiUs?" "It is caUed Lough Salt." "Why Lough ? that is the Irish for a lake, not of a mountain; I suppose you mean Knocksalt." — " Instead of disputing about its name, let us get better acquainted with it, and suppose we go after breakfast to its top." The day invited, so we set out on quiet, sure-footed ponies. A broad road led up the hill, which my friend informed me was until lately the only pass that led from Dublin, or from Deny to Ards, Dunfanaghy, and the whole north-western coast of Donegal. The mountain rose like a wall before us, yet up that wall the road valiantly climbed; the ponies toiled up it panting and perspiring ; it must be a pretty experiment for a carriage to venture on; and to mend the matter, the road is constructed as a hard causeway, every stone composing it as large as a quartern loaf. But we took our time, the ponies were nothing loath to stop as well as ourselves, and as we looked back on the country beneath us, the whole valley lay smiling under our feet, with its lake, and rivers, and tillage.

    6 AN ANTIQUE ROAD.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Salt is the lake you pass near here in Donegal. In 1822 a traveller stood looking at the mountain rising behind his friend's house, the loftiest in the chain, its sharp white silicious peaks glittering in the sun. He asked its name and was told Lough Salt. He wondered why a mountain would bear the Irish word for a lake, and suggested it should be Knocksalt. His friend said, "let us get better acquainted with it," and proposed they ride to its top after breakfast. They set out on quiet, sure-footed ponies. A broad road led up the hill, which the friend said was until lately the only pass from Dublin, or from Derry to Ards, Dunfanaghy, and the whole northwestern coast of Donegal. The mountain rose like a wall, yet the road climbed it. The ponies toiled, panting and perspiring. The road was a hard causeway, every stone as large as a quartern loaf. They took their time, stopping to look back at the valley below, with its lake and rivers and tillage. At the summit they found a lake filling a crater-like hollow beneath the mountain's highest quartz peak.

39. French Priests' Certificate of Pilgrimage to St. Patrick's Purgatory (1485)

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal · 1485

    A certificate from Octavianus, Archbishop of Armagh, attests that two French priests visited the Purgatory of St. Patrick and the holy mountain where the saint fasted forty days and nights, undergoing devotions there.

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    " To all children of our mother the church, to whom these testimonials shall come, Octavianus, by the grace of God, and of the See Apostolic, archbishop of Armagh, primate of all Ireland, wisheth everlasting salvation in the Lord, wishing you without question to credit what foUoweth ; seeing it is a holy and meritorious thing to give testimony unto the truth ; chiefly seeing our Saviour Jesus Christ came down from heaven ' to bear witness of the truth.' Hence it is by these presents we make known unto you, that John Garhi and Francis Proly of the city of Lyons, priests, and John Burgess their boy and servant, the bearers hereof — ^men of good repute, and piously affected, did visit the Purgatory of the holy Confessor St Patrick, the Apostle for Ireland, within which the sins of men even in this world are purged. And the holy mountain in which the said holy confessor did fast without temporal meat, forty days and forty nights, together with other places of holy devotion, and things of greatest observation in Ireland ; and that afflicting their bodies in fasting, and according to the ceremony of that place, they did for a certain time remain in that purgatory as it clearly appeareth unto us ; and that by the power of Christ our Redeemer, they did contempla-

    158 AND BY HIM OVERTHROWN.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 60

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Derg in Donegal has drawn pilgrims for centuries. In the year 1485, a document survives from this place. Octavianus, Archbishop of Armagh, primate of all Ireland, wrote it as a certificate for travellers returning home. Two French priests, John Garhi and Francis Proly of the city of Lyons, came here with their boy and servant, John Burgess. The archbishop called them men of good repute, piously affected. They visited the Purgatory of St. Patrick, the apostle for Ireland, a place within which, as the certificate says, the sins of men are purged even in this world. They also visited the holy mountain where St. Patrick fasted without temporal meat for forty days and forty nights, together with other places of holy devotion in Ireland. The archbishop attested that afflicting their bodies in fasting, and according to the ceremony of that place, they did for a certain time remain in that purgatory. He wrote that by the power of Christ our Redeemer, they did contemplate. The document was carried by the priests themselves, bearing testimony of what they had done.

40. Mount Gabriel named for the Archangel's visit

    near Mount Gabriel · hill or hills · Cork

    A boatman relates that Mount Gabriel is named after the angel Gabriel, who paused on its western peak while returning from delivering his message to the Virgin, leaving the mark of his footprint on the rock.

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    " Well, boys, can none of you (as I cannot get it out of the blockhead) tell me about Mount Oabriel ?" " O ! yes, sir," says Pat Hayes, " my godmother used to tell me it was called after the angel Gabriel, who came, you know, from heaven to deUver the happy message of mercy to the Virgin, ever blessed be her name ; and so on his return, as he was fLying back, he looked down upon Ireland, and as he knew that .in time to come, this honest island would never

    o

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 75

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up near Mount Gabriel in Cork, a hill whose name comes down through a story told by a boatman called Pat Hayes. His godmother used to tell him it was called after the angel Gabriel, who came from heaven to deliver the happy message of mercy to the Virgin. On his return flight he looked down upon Ireland, and paused on the western peak of this hill, leaving the mark of his footprint on the rock.

41. The Apprentice Boys Who Shut the Gates of Derry

    near Derry · city · Derry · 1689

    The blacksmith proudly recalls that his grandfather was one of the apprentice boys who shut the gates of Derry and defended the town for King William and the Protestant cause.

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    for, sir, I am proud to say that my grandfietther was one of the 'prentice hoys who shut the gates of Deny, and defended that good town for King William and the Protestant cause."

    This instance of superstitious weakness, I am well assured^ could not occur at present; for the Protes-> tant clergy are now much more active — more efficient — ^more under the sanctions of Gospel truth than ihey were some years ago; and wherefore is this ? — hecause the episcopacy of this district of Ireland has heen for some years well and faitMilly served.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 39

    As the companion tells it

    Derry is the city the road passes through or near, and in 1689 its gates were shut against King James. A blacksmith spoke of it with pride. He said his grandfather was one of the apprentice boys who shut the gates of Derry, and defended that good town for King William and the Protestant cause. The words were his own. He called them the prentice boys, and he was proud to claim the kinship. The author who heard him noted that such superstitious weakness could not occur at present, because the Protestant clergy were now more active and more efficient than they had been some years before.

42. The gamekeeper's ignorance in English, wisdom in Irish

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    At Lord Bantry's estate, Otway and his companion encounter a pheasant-keeper who cannot answer basic religious questions in English but responds with clear, feeling answers about Good Friday and Holy Saturday when questioned in Irish, revealing that his native tongue was the language of his heart.

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    " It was on that day that the Lord of Mercy gaive his life for sinners; a himdred thousand Uessings to him for that."

    '' What is Watdi Saturday ?"

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 125

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, on Lord Bantry's estate, Otway met a pheasant-keeper who could not answer simple religious questions in English. Asked in Irish what Good Friday was, the man answered: "It was on that day that the Lord of Mercy gave his life for sinners; a hundred thousand blessings to him for that." Irish was the language of his heart.

43. Crossing the Mountains from Glengariff to Kerry

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    The author set out from Glengariff Castle on the first of April to cross the mountain chain dividing Cork from Kerry, a route considered barely passable for a wheeled gig, assisted by a hired gang of men with ropes and handspikes.

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    " Come," says my hospitable entertainer at Glengariff castle, " never fear your gig, I will send a gang of men that shall help to push it up the mountain, and when it gets to the top, what with ropes and handspikes they can let it down into Kerry.**

    Accordingly I accepted of his offer, and set out on the first of April to pass over the mountains. Some, as I set out, seemed to look as if I were about to make an April fool of myself : but out I set, accompanied by my escort of men, and by two dear Mends, who determined not to desert me until I was deposited in the kingdom of Kerry. I would run the risk of wrecking the best gig that ever rolled, to see the interior of this sublime mountain scene.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 141

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, a traveller once set out from Glengariff Castle on the first of April to cross the mountains into Kerry. The route was considered barely passable for a wheeled gig. His host at the castle told him not to fear, that he would send a gang of men to help push the gig up the mountain, and once at the top, with ropes and handspikes they could let it down into Kerry. Some people watched him set out as if he were making an April fool of himself. But he went, accompanied by his escort of men and by two dear friends who refused to desert him until he was deposited in the kingdom of Kerry. He said he would run the risk of wrecking the best gig that ever rolled to see the interior of this sublime mountain scene.

44. The Priest's House Overlooking the Ferry

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    The author observes that the priest's house adjoining the pier at Lough Derg had a window commanding a full view of the ferry and the pilgrims' approach from the surrounding hills, allowing pilgrims' movements to be watched.

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    sence of pilgrims, as fit substitutes to frequent this island. A black cormorant, with outstretched neck, passed over our heads on his way to exercise his voracious propensities on some of his fishing haunts on the lake: if the Pythagorean system could be entertained in fancy for a moment, it might be imagined that in the metempsychosis, this all-devouring bird represented one of the old priors of this purgatory who had Uved on human creduhty, and battened on the terrors and fears of man. As I put my foot into the boat and pushed off from the island, I observed that the priest's house, which was contiguous to the Uttle pier that served as a place for embarking and disembarking, had a large window that fully commanded the ferry, and from whence could be observed the whole line of march of the pilgrims as they descended from the ridge of hills that surrounded the lake and approached the ferry — ^in fact, no man could draw near the ferry, or embark for the island without being accurately noticed by one stationed in this window. And, as we rowed away from the island, I busied my mind with supposing the various characters of priests and friars that have sat in that window, observing the freights of

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 61

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Derg is a lake the road passes through or near, in Donegal, and on its shore stands a priest's house with a story attached to it. A black cormorant passed overhead, outstretched neck carrying it toward its fishing haunts on the lake. The author fancied that if the Pythagorean system held, this voracious bird might represent one of the old priors of the purgatory, who had lived on human credulity and battened on the terrors and fears of man. Putting foot into the boat and pushing off from the island, the author observed that the priest's house, contiguous to the little pier used for embarking and disembarking, had a large window fully commanding the ferry. From that window the whole line of march of the pilgrims could be watched as they descended from the ridge of hills surrounding the lake and approached the ferry. No man could draw near the ferry or embark for the island without being accurately noticed by one stationed in that window. Rowing away, the author busied his mind supposing the various characters of priests and friars who had sat there, observing the freights of pilgrims.

45. A Dangerous Crossing at Esk Mountain

    Esk Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Cork

    On the rugged mountain path, the author's mare stepped through a broken bridge arch on Esk Mountain, injuring her knee, illustrating the hazardous condition of the route on the Cork-Kerry boundary.

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    So taking leave, reluctantly enough, of Glengariff, out I set with my escort, and commenced the ascent of the mountain chain, and we had not proceeded far along the road, or rather horse-path, until the necessity of precaution, and of abundant help of men became evident. Here a broken bridge, over whose ruins my fragile vehicle was to be lifted — there a quagmire across the road, over which my poor mare was obliged to jump upon stepping-stones: indeed the poor experienced animal, who had drawn me many a thousand miles, and who, if she could hold a pen with her hoof, might be able to write as good a tour a& her master — she, as passing over these uncouth places, with her ears thrown back, and a very hesitating sort of countenance, now and then looked me fill! in the face, and all as one as said. Master, where ^e you bringing me, fool as you are, risking a good gig, and better mare, in such a dangerous enterprize; and, indeed, at this very instant, the foreboding looks of my worthy Mend and long tried companion, seemed realized; for, just as we were attempting to pass what was once designed to be a bridge, the poor animal's foot forced its way through an orifice in the arch, and if the poor creature had not been cool and

    358 X8K MOUNTAIN.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 142

    As the companion tells it

    Esk Mountain lies on the boundary of Cork and Kerry, and the road over it was once barely a horse-path. The author set out from Glengariff with an escort and began the ascent of the mountain chain. They had not gone far before the need for caution and the help of men became clear. A broken bridge appeared, and his fragile vehicle had to be lifted over its ruins. Then a quagmire lay across the road, and his poor mare had to jump from stepping-stone to stepping-stone. She was an experienced animal, one who had drawn him many a thousand miles. He wrote that if she could hold a pen with her hoof, she might write as good a tour as her master. Passing over these rough places, with her ears thrown back and a hesitating look on her face, she would glance at him, as much as to say: Master, where are you bringing me, fool as you are, risking a good gig and a better mare in such a dangerous enterprise. And at that very instant her warning seemed to come true. As they attempted to cross what was once meant to be a bridge, her foot forced its way through an opening in the arch. If the poor creature had not been cool and steady, the fall might have been worse. Her knee was injured, and the mountain path had shown just how hazardous a crossing it was.

46. Desolate Scenery of Lough Derg Contrasted with Lough Erne

    near Lough Derg · lake or lakes · Donegal

    Otway contrasts the cultivated, prosperous shores of Lough Erne with the bleak, treeless, houseless moorland surrounding Lough Derg, describing the latter's landscape as one of desolation befitting its superstitious associations.

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    iBlands, and all its hilly shores, ]greeii, wooded, and cultivated, with the interspersed houses of its gentry, and the comfortable cottages of its yeomanry — ^the finest yeomanry in Ireland: men living in compa^ rative comfort, and having in their figures and bearing that elevation of character which a sense of loyalty and independence confers. I had at length, after travelling about three miles, arrived where the road was discontinued, and by the direction of my guide, ascended a mountain-path that brought me through a wretched village and led to the top of a hill. Here my boy left me and went to look for the man who was to ferry us to Purgatory, and on the ridge where I stood I had leisure to look around. To the south-west lay Lough £me, with all its isles and cultivated sbores; to the north-west, LoughDerg, and truly never did I majrk such a contrast. Lough Derg under my feet^-the lake, the shores, the mountains, the accompaniments of all sorts presented the very landscape of desolation; its waters expand* ing in their highland solitude, amidst a wide waste of moors, without one green spot to refresh the eye, without a house or tree — ^all moumfiil in the brown hue of its far-stretchii^ bogs, and the grey uniformity

    ITS SCENERY. 129

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

    As the companion tells it

    Lough Derg in Donegal is a lake of stark contrast. The writer had been travelling about three miles when the road came to an end. By his guide's direction, he took a mountain-path through a wretched village and reached the top of a hill. The boy who guided him went off to find the man who would ferry them to Purgatory, and from that ridge he had time to look around. To the south-west lay Lough Erne, with all its islands and cultivated shores, green, wooded, with the houses of its gentry and the comfortable cottages of its yeomanry, men he called the finest yeomanry in Ireland, living in comparative comfort with a bearing that loyalty and independence confer. To the north-west lay Lough Derg, and he said he never marked such a contrast. The lake, the shores, the mountains, all presented what he called the very landscape of desolation. Its waters expanded in their highland solitude amidst a wide waste of moors, without one green spot to refresh the eye, without a house or tree, mournful in the brown hue of its far-stretching bogs and the grey uniformity of it all.

47. Ruined Athassel Abbey offers no refuge

    Relickmurry and Athassel · parish · Tipperary · 1602

    O'Sullivan and O'Connor hoped to find refreshment at Athassel, a splendid monastic foundation of De Burgo the Red Earl in the fertile Suir valley, but found the peaceful dwellers already driven out by the English spoiler and were forced to pass on.

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    whose blood was bad becaiue there was the EngHsb drop in it — a false Irishman because a mixed mon^wl — he, instead of giving them wdcome at Idseami, turned^ churl, as he was, the gtans of his eastle on them, and moreover sent out all his men on garrans to press and prey on them. Still onward thej went, leaving to the left the Ballyhoora mountains. They descended into the plains of Limerick. Here they found, for a few days, food for themselves, and pas* ture for their horses. And then northward they rode, untiL passing under the Galtee chain, they reached the rich valley of the Snir. O'Sullivn&^nd (yConnor trusted that here, in this very fertile vale, which the Catholic church had appropriated te heft*-* self, and aimidst the opulent abbeys that raised their cloistered fronts along its beautiftd stieam, they wduld have been i^freshed. Thus they st<^ped at Athassel; but the Saxon spoiler had driven the peaceful dwellers from this splendid monument of the piety of De Burgo, the Red Earl,- and tihey passed on to the rock of CasheL But here again was no rest for the hoofs of their horses — ^fbr the 'L<^d President had advised, by his scouts, the sheriff of the cross in the palatinate of Tipperary, that traitors

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 131

    As the companion tells it

    This parish, Relickmurry and Athassel, holds the ruins of Athassel Abbey. In 1602, O'Sullivan and O'Connor were making their way through the country. They had left the Ballyhoora mountains behind and descended into the plains of Limerick, where they found food for themselves and pasture for their horses for a few days. Then northward they rode, passing under the Galtee chain, until they reached the rich valley of the Suir. They trusted that here, in this fertile vale, which the Catholic church had appropriated to herself, and amidst the opulent abbeys that raised their cloistered fronts along its beautiful stream, they would have been refreshed. So they stopped at Athassel, a splendid monument of the piety of De Burgo, the Red Earl. But the Saxon spoiler had driven the peaceful dwellers from it, and they passed on to the rock of Cashel. Here again was no rest for the hoofs of their horses, for the Lord President had advised the sheriff of the cross in the palatinate of Tipperary that traitors were about.

48. The Priest's Leap Rock and Its Legend

    Priest's Leap · pass · Kerry

    A large rock near Bantry, known as the Priest's Leap, bears impressions said to be the marks of a holy priest's hands, feet, and knees where he landed after leaping from a mountain. A passing traveller bowed to the rock, believing in the tale, and explained the legend to the narrator.

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    "O," says he, "that is the rock of the priest's leap. Don't you observe in it the impression of the priest's hands, feet, and knees ?"

    " Why I do observe some holes in the stone certainly, like the impression which a man's knees and hands might make on soft clay."

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 100

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Priest's Leap, a large rock carries the marks of a holy priest's leap. A passing traveller pointed it out and said, that is the rock of the priest's leap, and asked if you could see the impression of the priest's hands, feet, and knees. There were indeed holes in the stone, like the marks a man's knees and hands might leave in soft clay.

49. Belief in miraculous cures from the priest's grave clay at Skull

    Skull · town · Cork

    Locals believed the priest buried at Skull worked miracles and was skilled at curing ague, rheumatism, sore eyes, and falling-sickness, despite reportedly living an unascetic, indulgent life.

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    as these; but it is finnly believed he worked miracles. He was proficient at curing the ague^ rheumatism^ sore eyes, falling-sickness."

    " Well, but was he a man of austere life ? Did he deny himself daily, and carry his cross ? Questionless, he was an ascetic and mortified man, another St. Jerome, or Saint Anthony ?"

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 95

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Skull in Cork, locals once believed a priest buried here worked miracles. He was known for curing ague, rheumatism, sore eyes, and falling sickness. Yet people questioned whether he was truly an austere man, asking if he denied himself daily and carried his cross, comparing him to Saint Jerome or Saint Anthony.

50. First sight of Glengarriff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    Otway describes his approach to Glengarriff after crossing a dreary moor, calling it unique and unmatched in Ireland, referencing O'Sullivan's Catholic History which calls it the 'Vallis Aspera' or Rough Glen.

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    in this eastern direction, which lies there in all the retirement of suhlime seclusion. But I had Glengariff before me. An ugly hill, an uninteresting Tiew of Bantry bay, a bad road over a dreary moor — a scene where chatty companions may abstract themselves into talk of other places and other times. And therefore we had all got into a most spirited conversation, on a subject very interesting to us, but perhaps not so to the reader; when in the midst of my advocacy I became dumb— dispute and argument all fled. "There's GlengarifiP!" I believe my friends actually contrived to abstract me thus, and engage the mind in other trains of thought, in order to produce effect. They certainly succeeded. I had heard much of this GlengarifF — ^the Bough Glen — Vallis Aspera, as O'Sullivan in his Catholic History calls it. As I passed along from east to west of the county of Cork, every one expressed the hope that I should not leave the county until I had seen GlengarifP. I would as soon have gone through Italy, and passed by Rome :— and now I was there — ^had it allunder my eye! And was I disappointed? Not in the least. Nothing in Ireland is equal to it, or can be brought into comparison; it is singular, it is

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 120

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere around here, Glengarriff comes into view. Otway came at it after a bad road over a dreary moor, an ugly hill, an uninteresting view of Bantry Bay. It was a scene where chatty companions could abstract themselves into talk of other places and other times. He and his friends had got into a spirited conversation, on a subject interesting to them but perhaps not to the reader. In the midst of his advocacy he became dumb. Dispute and argument all fled. One of them called out, "There's Glengarriff!" He believed his friends had contrived to abstract him thus and engage his mind in other trains of thought in order to produce effect. They certainly succeeded. He had heard much of this Glengarriff, the Bough Glen, Vallis Aspera, as O'Sullivan in his Catholic History calls it. As he passed along from east to west of the county of Cork, everyone expressed the hope that he would not leave the county until he had seen Glengarriff. He said he would as soon have gone through Italy and passed by Rome. And now he was there, had it all under his eye. Was he disappointed? Not in the least. Nothing in Ireland is equal to it, or can be brought into comparison. It is singular.

51. Horn Head's vast rabbit warren and seabird colonies

    near Horn Head · promontory · Donegal

    Mr Stewart's estate at Horn Head, over one thousand acres, was described as the most extensively stocked farm in Ireland or the world, mainly as a rabbit warren, with income from rabbit skins. Countless seabirds - gulls, gannets, penguins, petrels and albatross - came each summer to nest on its inaccessible cliff ledges.

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    onward from this angry mountain, to the promontory of Horn-head, and were received at the hospitable mansion of Mr. Stewart, who, amidst the multiplicity of gentry of that name in the province of Ulster, is as usual designated and distinguished by the name of the property over which he resides; and here, on this promontory or island, for it is surrounded by the sea; on this outpost towards America, I found a family as amiable, society as polished, reception as cordial, and attention such as Irishmen could give, or Irishmen be grateful for. Mr. Stewart has the most extensively stocked farm in Ireland, or perhaps in the world. I have heard said of old Mr. Keatjng of Tipperary, that he used to shear at one shearing twenty-five thousand . sheep: but Mr. Stewart reckons his stock not by hundred or thousand, but by hundreds of thousands.* I can assert he is lord of millions; the whole promontory of Horn-head, containing upwards of one thousand

    * At present, I believe that the promontory of Hombead is not exclusively stocked v^ith rabbits. During the French war their fur was much in demand for the hat manufacture ; but since the peace foreign furs have come into use and lowered the price of the native commodity; besides, X believe the proprietor has found, to his cost, that the encouragement of rabbits has greatly facilitated the blowing of the sand.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Horn Head, a promontory surrounded by sea, Mr. Stewart held an estate of over one thousand acres. The author of Sketches in Ireland called it the most extensively stocked farm in Ireland, or perhaps in the world. Stewart reckoned his stock not by hundreds or thousands, but by hundreds of thousands. He was lord of millions. The whole promontory was given over to rabbits, a vast warren yielding income from their skins. Each summer, countless seabirds came to nest on the inaccessible cliff ledges. Gulls, gannets, penguins, petrels and albatross gathered on this outpost towards America. The visitor found a family as amiable, society as polished, and attention such as Irishmen could give, or Irishmen be grateful for.

52. No rest for the fugitives at the Rock of Cashel

    near Rock of Cashel · rock or rocks · Tipperary · 1602

    Passing the Rock of Cashel, O'Sullivan's retreating band found no rest, as the Lord President had already alerted the sheriff of the palatinate of Tipperary that traitors were traversing his bailiwick, forcing them onward.

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    whose blood was bad becaiue there was the EngHsb drop in it — a false Irishman because a mixed mon^wl — he, instead of giving them wdcome at Idseami, turned^ churl, as he was, the gtans of his eastle on them, and moreover sent out all his men on garrans to press and prey on them. Still onward thej went, leaving to the left the Ballyhoora mountains. They descended into the plains of Limerick. Here they found, for a few days, food for themselves, and pas* ture for their horses. And then northward they rode, untiL passing under the Galtee chain, they reached the rich valley of the Snir. O'Sullivn&^nd (yConnor trusted that here, in this very fertile vale, which the Catholic church had appropriated te heft*-* self, and aimidst the opulent abbeys that raised their cloistered fronts along its beautiftd stieam, they wduld have been i^freshed. Thus they st<^ped at Athassel; but the Saxon spoiler had driven the peaceful dwellers from this splendid monument of the piety of De Burgo, the Red Earl,- and tihey passed on to the rock of CasheL But here again was no rest for the hoofs of their horses — ^fbr the 'L<^d President had advised, by his scouts, the sheriff of the cross in the palatinate of Tipperary, that traitors

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 131

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Rock of Cashel, O'Sullivan's retreating band found no rest for the hoofs of their horses. The Lord President had advised the sheriff of the cross in the palatinate of Tipperary, by his scouts, that traitors were traversing his bailiwick, and so the fugitives were forced onward. They had hoped for refreshment earlier in the fertile valley of the Suir, amidst the opulent abbeys along its stream. They stopped at Athassel, but the peaceful dwellers there had already been driven from that monument of the piety of De Burgo, the Red Earl. They passed on to the Rock of Cashel, but again there was no rest. This was in 1602, and the country ahead offered them nothing but flight.

53. Ruins of a fishing-palace on Bantry Bay islands

    near Bantry Bay · bay · Cork

    Among the islets studding Bantry Bay's inner harbour, the author notes one crowned with an ancient castle, another with a modern battery, a martello tower, and the ruins of an old fishing-palace once used for curing pilchards.

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    Hungry monntfiiii rising like an embattled wall before before 70a and down the mural descent, as reUeved from its black ground, fell the cataract of AdrigoU, in a perpendicular silver column of 800 feet! — ^nearer still, facing the north, the sugar-loaf mountain, almost as white in its sihdous quartzose formation, as if it were crystallized sugar; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Wluddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles and islets, one crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a modem battery — ^here a martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing-palace;* and to finish the setting of this rich jewel, the trees, woods, hills, and fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry, his green and highly dressed lawn, sweeping down in easy undulations to the very water's edge. I cannot say how much I was struck with this delight^ tout ensemble. And certainly, as was exemphfied here, any thing that is admirable, is made much more so by contrast. I had for miles travelled over a dull and dreary way — ^bare, desolate, unsatisfactory

    * Fishing palaces, as they were called, were large establishments on the coast, where they used to cure pilchards.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 99

    As the companion tells it

    Bantry Bay opens before you as you come through Cork, a wide harbour of placid water set among mountains. Hungry mountains rise like an embattled wall, and down their face the cataract of Adrigole falls in a silver column of 800 feet. Facing north stands the sugar-loaf mountain, pale as crystallized sugar in its quartz formation. The inner harbour lies sheltered by the green island of Whiddy, which divides it from the outer bay. Across that calm water, isles and islets are scattered. One is crested with an ancient castle, another with a modern battery. Here stands a martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing-palace once used for curing pilchards. Lord Bantry's mansion and dressed lawn sweep down to the water's edge, framed by trees and woods. The author notes that the beauty struck him all the more for contrast, having travelled miles over bare, desolate, unsatisfactory country to reach this spot.

54. The Gap of Barnesmore's Magnificent Defile

    near Barnesmore · pass · Donegal

    Otway describes crossing the gap of Bearnasmore, a dramatic mountain defile connecting Donegal to Tyrone. He notes its wild, precipitous scenery with water-worn chasms, heath, and furze, and imagines the torrents that must rush through after rain.

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    ranges that defend the north-western coast firom the Atlantic, and runs forward into the counter of Tyrone. Through this chain, which is very precipitous, and almost inaccessible, nature has cut this extraordinary gap, and through it a very lerel road leads you into the low country bordering on the bay of Donegal — on either side the mountain rose abrupt and almost perpendicular. It was a grey cold morning in September when I passed through : a fog rather than a cloud had wreathed itself around the heads of the hills, and left you to guess at their elevations. The water-worn chasms that were channelled in the sides of the mountain to the right and left were now dry and black — ^the heath was in its autumnal bloom, and the yellow-flowered furze flaunted around in its unprofitable gaiety, and here and there a stunted oak or birch gave sufficient vegetation to the Alpine picture to make it sublime without being desolate. There was a stream, or rather a strand of one, (for the weather was very dry,) winding through a defile; but there was sufficient evidence what a torrent it must be, after autumnal or wintry rains. Oh! how I wished, even at the expense of a thorough wetting, to go through this pass after a fall of rain — ^to see

    BAtlNSMORE GAP. 113

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 41

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Barnesmore there is a gap that nature cut through a mountain chain, one that defends the northwestern coast from the Atlantic and runs forward into Tyrone. The chain is precipitous and almost inaccessible, but through it a level road leads into the low country bordering Donegal Bay. On either side the mountain rose abrupt and almost perpendicular. Otway came through on a grey cold morning in September. Fog rather than cloud had wreathed itself around the heads of the hills, and the elevations were left to guess. The water-worn chasms channelled in the mountain sides were dry and black. The heath was in autumnal bloom, and the yellow-flowered furze flaunted in what he called its "unprofitable gaiety." Here and there a stunted oak or birch gave enough vegetation to the picture to make it sublime without being desolate. There was a stream, or rather a strand of one, for the weather was very dry, winding through the defile. But there was sufficient evidence what a torrent it must be after autumnal or wintry rains. He wished, even at the expense of a thorough wetting, to go through this pass after a fall of rain.

55. The dry bed of the Hungry Mountain cataract at Adrigole

    Adrigole · townland · Cork

    On the road from Glengarriff toward Bearhaven, the author's party passed Adrigole, where a stream descends to the sea beneath Hungry Mountain; a great waterfall usually cascades down the mountainside in a dark chasm, but the exceptionally dry weather had left it without a single trickle of water.

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    and room left for an open valley through which a stream descended and joined the sea. A pretty bridge, a sort of a Tillage^ a diurch, and close to the sea-shore a comfortable parsonage house, and straight before us Hungry Mountain, with the bed of the waterfall, like a dark deep chasm, indented down its side. But the weather had already set in with pecu* liar dryness, and there was not a rill of water where in winter is a fearful cataract.

    " Did you ever see a dumb church ?" said one of my companions.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 135

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Adrigole, Hungry Mountain rises straight ahead, with the bed of its waterfall cut down the side like a dark deep chasm. In winter that chasm holds what the old account calls a fearful cataract, but the weather had set in with peculiar dryness and not a rill of water was running. A stream still found its way down to the sea through the open valley below, with a pretty bridge near the shore.

56. Mulroy Bay's once-wooded, now solitary shores

    near Mulroy Bay · bay · Donegal

    Mulroy Bay, a deep land-locked arm of the sea, was formerly covered with timber on its hills and shores, with oak, ash, and hazel copsewood still remaining on the declivities, though the area now attracts no visitors and is frequented only by seabirds.

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    On the following day my friend and I set out to retrace our steps homeward, and, to vary our route, we returned along the shores of the de^, land-locked arm of the sea called Mulroy Bay. Nothing can equal the variety that this water presents — ^here, like a beautiful and placid lake winding through mountains, and without any apparent outlet — there, like a broad and magnificent river, and again opening into a fine harbour in which navies might ride in safety. Formerly the hills and shores of the bay were covered with timber. The oak, ash, hazel, in stunted copsewood, still cover the declivities. If these beautiful shores were in any other country, they

    86 giants' graves.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 33

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead, Mulroy Bay opens up — a deep, land-locked arm of the sea in Donegal. The water shifts as you pass: here it looks like a placid lake winding through the mountains with no apparent outlet, there like a broad river, and further on it opens into a harbour where navies might ride in safety. The hills and shores were once covered with timber. Oak, ash, and hazel survive now only as stunted copsewood on the slopes. These shores draw no visitors — just seabirds.

57. Naming of Muckish Mountain

    Muckish Mountain · mountain or mountain range · Donegal

    The immense precipitous mountain called Muckish was so named from its resemblance to a pig's back, with a sharp bristled ridge like an old Irish pig, and was said to be among the highest mountains in Ireland.

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    But to return to Lough Salt. After looking along the coast, and satisfying your eye with its very varied outlines, you have time to take a view in another direction; to the south-west, towards the immense precipitous mountain called Muckish, so named from its resemblance to a pig's back — ^not a fat pig of the Berkshire or Cheshire breed, but a right old Irish pig, with a high and sharp back, every articulation of the back-bone promiiient and bristled. I think it is one of the highest mountains in Iceland. But I mean to give hereafter a narrative of an excursion to its summit. To the south lay an immense mass of mountains, stretching towards Donegal bay, over which, rising above the rest in conical elevation, stood Arrigal, in comparison with which the hill over Powerscourt is but a grocer's sugar-loaf; and still more distant, to the south-east lay the mountains of Bamesmore, in which is the celebrated defile — of it the Scalp in the coimty of Wicklow is indeed but a very miniature representation.

    But directly under us was a most curious picture to be seen : the mountain on which we stood, as it descended to the west, presented sundry shelves or valleys, in each of which lay a round and sparkling

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

    As the companion tells it

    There is a mountain in Donegal called Muckish, immense and precipitous, and it took its name from its resemblance to a pig's back. Not a fat pig of the Berkshire or Cheshire breed, but, as the old account has it, "a right old Irish pig, with a high and sharp back, every articulation of the back-bone prominent and bristled." The writer thought it one of the highest mountains in Ireland, and meant to tell hereafter of an excursion to its summit. From near Lough Salt the mountain could be seen rising to the south-west. To the south lay an immense mass of mountains stretching toward Donegal bay. Rising above the rest in conical elevation stood Arrigal, beside which the hill over Powerscourt was but a grocer's sugar-loaf. More distant to the south-east lay the mountains of Barnesmore, with their celebrated defile, of which the Scalp in Wicklow was but a very miniature representation.

58. The eagle's ledge above Glengarriff

    Glengarriff · townland · Cork

    Otway describes a deep, perpendicular chasm two miles from where he stood, where eagles had nested for centuries, undisturbed by man.

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    line of an artist's plummet : and still this abyss^ though two miles off, (as my conductor informed me,) from the clearness of the atmosphere, appeared so near and fine in its outlines, that while the bottom was cast into the indistinct gloom of its own depth, its upper parts, open to the eyening light, sparkled in the sun, and presented the very ledge on whieh eagles for centuries had formed their nests, and reared their young, unapproachable by the common arts or enterprise of man.

    Walking thus for about a mile, we came to Lwd Bantry's cottage; a cottage omSe I leave to capability men to describe ; suffice it to say, that its site is well chosen, and all the abundant facilities of the place taken advantage of. It stands in an island formed by a mountain-stream, and you approach over a bridge made from the main-mast of one of the French ships of the line, that attempted to land invaders on the coast in 1 796, and in the repelling of which Lord B. and his brother were eminently instrumental. The proprietor of this delightfrd spot does well in protecting all the wild animals and game, that would in the course of nature people such rocks and woods. The pheasant, the grouse, the partridge, the har^

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Glengarriff, Otway was pointed to a deep, perpendicular chasm, about two miles from where he stood. In the clear air it looked near, its depths in shadow, its upper parts sparkling in the sun. On its ledge, eagles had built their nests and raised their young for centuries, unapproachable by what he called "the common arts or enterprise of man."

59. The Wild Peninsula of Fannat

    near Fanad · locality · Donegal

    Fannat is described as a wild mountain district bounded by Lough Swilly to the east and Mulroy Lough to the west, subject to blowing sand but with a growing population, largely Roman Catholic and considered given to well-worship and saint adoration.

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    On the other side of the waters of Mulroy is the peninsula of Fannat, which is bounded on the east by Lough Swilly, and on the west by Mulroy Lough; it is a wild mountain district, subject in many places to the blowing of the sand; but containing a gr^t and increasing population. I understand that the Protestants of that district are blessed with the residence and pastoral labour of a truly pious minister, and that his exertions, his preaching, and example, have had a most beneficial effect on those who attend his instructions. The Romanists,

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 34

    As the companion tells it

    This is Fanad, a wild mountain peninsula between Lough Swilly to the east and Mulroy Lough to the west. Sand blows across many parts of it, yet the population is great and growing. The Protestants here have a truly pious minister, whose preaching, example, and pastoral labour have had a most beneficial effect on those who attend his instructions. The Roman Catholics of the district are said to be given to well-worship and saint adoration.

60. Lord Bantry's demesne on the shores of Bantry Bay

    Bantry · town · Cork

    The author admires the wooded hills, park and mansion-house of Lord Bantry sweeping down to the water's edge at Bantry Bay, offering a striking contrast to the barren country he had just crossed.

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    Hungry monntfiiii rising like an embattled wall before before 70a and down the mural descent, as reUeved from its black ground, fell the cataract of AdrigoU, in a perpendicular silver column of 800 feet! — ^nearer still, facing the north, the sugar-loaf mountain, almost as white in its sihdous quartzose formation, as if it were crystallized sugar; directly under my feet was the inner harbour of Bantry, protected and divided from the outer bay by the green island of Wluddy ; and up and down on that placid water were studded isles and islets, one crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a modem battery — ^here a martello tower, there the ruins of a fishing-palace;* and to finish the setting of this rich jewel, the trees, woods, hills, and fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry, his green and highly dressed lawn, sweeping down in easy undulations to the very water's edge. I cannot say how much I was struck with this delight^ tout ensemble. And certainly, as was exemphfied here, any thing that is admirable, is made much more so by contrast. I had for miles travelled over a dull and dreary way — ^bare, desolate, unsatisfactory

    * Fishing palaces, as they were called, were large establishments on the coast, where they used to cure pilchards.

    Internet Archive sketchesinirela00otwagoog, Chapter 99

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Bantry, the bay opens out below. The mountains rise like a wall, and the cataract of Adrigool falls in a silver column 800 feet down the cliff. The sugar-loaf mountain faces north, almost white in its quartz formation. Underneath lies the inner harbour of Bantry, shielded from the outer bay by the green island of Whiddy. Out on the calm water are isles and islets. One carries an ancient castle, another a modern battery. There is a martello tower, and the ruins of a fishing-palace. Then come the trees, the woods, the hills, and the fine mansion-house of Lord Bantry. His green, highly dressed lawn sweeps down in easy undulations to the very water's edge. The author says he cannot say how much he was struck with this whole ensemble. And certainly, as he says, anything admirable is made more so by contrast. He had travelled for miles over a dull and dreary way, bare, desolate, unsatisfactory, and then this rich jewel opened before him.