Sketches of the Irish Highlands : description, social and religious, with special reference to Irish mission in West Connaught since 1840

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Knockmaa as a favourite fairy haunt near Lough Corrib

   Knockmaa · hill or hills · Galway

   Fairies were believed to make Connemara their favourite haunt, especially Knock Mah on the opposite side of Lough Corrib. Among their reported activities was carrying off young mothers to suckle fairy children, a theme referenced in a wild old Irish song.

   Read the passage

   As might be expected, many were the Connemara superstitions ; but most of them were similar to what are found in other parts of the country. Some, however, were peculiar to the place, specially those which concerned its geology, of wjhich marvellous tales were told. Thus, the pass of Maam Turc, on the borders of Joyce's country, was said to have been formed by three great leaps of Fin-ma- Coul, Avhen out hunting one day with his Fenians ! Other superstitions related to the fairies, who seemed to make that country their favourite haunt, specially Knock Mah on the opposite side of Lough Corrib. Of their many pranks, one was to carry off young mothers to suckle their own children, to which allu-

   88 SUPERSTITIONS CHARMS.

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 43

2. Leaking Connemara cabins and the rainy climate

   near Connemara · locality · Galway

   The author describes entering Connemara cabins where pools on the floor and green streaks along the walls showed the roof was not waterproof, a dire problem in a climate where a native wit remarked it rains thirteen months of the year. Despite this, poor inhabitants were so habituated that one cottier casually dismissed a gentleman's complaint about rain following him indoors.

   Read the passage

   Let us now take a peep into the interior of a cabin. The Connemara people are hospitable, and will not count us intruders, especially as our visit is made with no unfriendly intent. In some cabins, alas ! the first glance shows, by the pools in the floor and the green streaks along the walls, that the roof is not staunch. This is wretched in so humid a climate ; of which a native wit once remarked, " In Connemara it rains thirteen months in the year !" And yet it is wonderful how habit reconciles people even to this discomfort. With great coolness a poor cottier once replied to a gentleman who complained, after flying to his house for shelter, that the rain followed him there ; " Why then, Sir, the way here is,

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 19

   As the companion tells it

   As the road takes you through Connemara in Galway, the cabins here tell their own story. Step inside one and the first glance shows pools on the floor and green streaks along the walls, signs the roof is not staunch. This is wretched in so humid a climate. A native wit once remarked, "In Connemara it rains thirteen months in the year." And yet it is wonderful how habit reconciles people even to this discomfort. A poor cottier once replied to a gentleman who had fled to his house for shelter and complained that the rain followed him there. The cottier said, "Why then, Sir, the way here is,"

3. Legend of King Donaghoe at Killarney

   Killarney · townland · Kerry

   The author compares a natural phenomenon of moving sea foam to a local legend associated with Killarney. The legend tells of King Donaghoe riding a white steed with silver slippers over the waters on a May morning.

   Read the passage

   Just as I approached the village of Kilronan, which was our landing-place, it being now dark, I was startled with a curious natural phenomenon. This was caused by a ledge of breakers, which shot out a long way into the sea in a straight line. The billows dashing on this ledge diagonally, caused a high ridge of foam suddenly to rise at one end, and to run, with the rapidity of a race-horse, along the whole line. It then as suddenly disappeared, but at regular intervals was renewed. Really it seemed like a thing of life. With the aid of a little imagination, one could manufacture out of it such a fiction as that of King Donaghoe on his white steed, with silver slippers, careering over the waters of Killarney on a May morning.

   In parting with my boatmen, they directed me to the only place where I could get lodging or food. It was a small cabin ; but I was glad of any place to cover my head. After leaving me, by way of excusing themselves for bringing me over, they reported that I was an invalid priest, visiting the island for the good of my health. But I soon undeceived the people on that point.

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 88

4. Letterfrack cottage once a cattle-shared hovel

   Letterfrack · townland · Galway

   A neat cottage at Letterfrack with pleasure-grounds and a fine fuchsia hedge had formerly been a filthy hovel where cattle were housed with the occupants, making it difficult to reach the fire-place.

   Read the passage

   " One cottage particularly pleased me by its neatness and its nice pleasure-grounds, flanked by as fine a fuschia hedge as I had ever seen. What was my surprise when the driver of the car told me, that formerly this was a filthy hovel where the cattle were housed with the occupants, so that with difficulty he could pick his steps to the fire-place to kindle his pipe ! But the finest house of all is that which was built by

   Mr. Ellis, and is now occupied by Hall, Esq. This is a

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 106

5. Martin's twenty-mile avenue to Ballynahinch Castle

   Ballynahinch · townland · Galway

   Martin's celebrated avenue to his castle at Ballynahinch began at Oughterard and ran twenty miles entirely through his own estate. He boasted to a Royal George that Windsor's avenue was only one mile by comparison, but his hundreds of thousands of acres have since passed from his family.

   Read the passage

   Outerard is a pretty village. All must admire its views of the bright lake on one side, and of the dark mountains on the other ; also its beautiful river, celebrated formerly for its pearls, and now for its picturesque waterfall. Another of its attractions, more homely indeed, but more valuable, is the neatness of its houses, as compared with most other western villages ; while in the vicinity there are several fine villas, embowered in trees, the want of which, as we go westward, sadly detracts from the sceneiy. In addition to all this, Outerard could boast, in the last generation, of being an important military station, being then the chief pass into lawless Connemara. Nor should we omit, that here began Mr. Martin's celebrated avenue to his castle at Ballinahinch, of which he boasted to one of the Royal Georges that, while the avenue to Windsor Castle was only a mile long, this was no less than twenty ! So it was ; and in its entire length it ran through Mr. Martin's own estate. But alas! his hundreds of thousands of broad acres have since passed away from all his race. How are the mighty fallen ! According to the old classic adage — " Sic transit gloria mundi"

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 4

6. Presbyterian settlement established at Roundstone

   Roundstone · town · Galway · 1838–1842

   A small settlement of Presbyterians had established themselves at Roundstone shortly before the author's arrival. They were without a minister, so the author volunteered and conducted a Sabbath service for them.

   Read the passage

   To complete the religious delineation of Connemara, I need only add, that a little before my arrival, a small settlement of Presbyterians had taken place at Roundstone. As they were without a minister, I volunteered my services, and conducted for them a service every Sabbath. Amongst the worshippers on the very first occasion, appeared a middle-aged gentleman and two ladies, who turned out to be the celebrated Thomas Martin, Esq., of Ballinahinch Castle, with his wife and

   70 HOW A POOR ROMANIST RECEIVED THE GOSPEL.

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 36

   As the companion tells it

   Up ahead is Roundstone in Galway. A small settlement of Presbyterians had established themselves here shortly before the author's arrival. They had no minister, so he volunteered and conducted a service for them every Sabbath. On the very first occasion, among the worshippers appeared a middle-aged gentleman and two ladies, who turned out to be Thomas Martin of Ballinahinch Castle, with his wife and — and there the passage cuts off.

7. Religious tensions and lawsuit in Clifden

   Clifden · town · Galway · 1861

   On a third visit to Clifden the year after 1860, great irritation existed in the village owing to a lawsuit between an Episcopalian minister and a priest over an assault by the latter. The atmosphere of sectarian conflict set the stage for the author's own assault shortly afterwards.

   Read the passage

   My two first visits to Clifden having been so agreeable, I regret that I cannot say the same of a third, which I paid to it the year after. Great irritation, indeed, then existed, owing to a lawsuit which had taken place between an Episcopalian minister and a priest, for an assault by the latter. As to myself, however, being a stranger, and having nothing to do with the matter, I considered that I had no cause of apprehension on my own account ; and so, without fear, I walked about alone on the beautiful roads surrounding the village. But ere long I had reason to repent of my temerity.

   A few days afterwards, when passing over the hill to the west of Clifden, I observed a young fellow running from a distant field where two men were working, and with whom

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 102

8. Methodist on desolate moor near Letterfrack

   Letterfrack · townland · Galway

   The author visited a Methodist living on a wild, desolate moor adjoining Letterfrack. The man described spending an entire night arguing on election and free will with a Scripture reader until tea and tobacco ran out.

   Read the passage

   friend, paid to a Methodist who lived in a wild and desolate moor adjoining. In course of conversation he told us of another visit he had received a little before, from a Scripture reader ; and how they occupied their time while in each other's society. " We argued on election and free will all the night, while there remained in the house a grain of tea or a pipe of tobacco !" In such a desert one would have thought that these men would rather employ themselves in edifying each other. But no : the same rage for argument that has set on fire churches and nations, pursued them even into the wilds of Connemara ! Truly human nature is always the same.

   Another theological reminiscence of this visit is thus described in my journal : — " Returning to Letterfrack, I was followed by a boy who pressed me to buy a handful of Irish diamonds, which he had gathered on the mountains. In vain I refused ; like other duns, he would not be put off, I then asked him who made him ; and, when he answered correctly, I asked did he hope to go to heaven, or was he worthy of it. I then told him that, being sinners, none of us deserved heaven ; and that Jesus was the only Saviour : and that these truths, if believed in, were more precious than real diamonds. But the little fellow was taken quite aback by this unexpected address ; and so, after looking at me with awe, mingled with aversion, he suddenly disappeared! I did not mean to frighten him away ; however, my address had that effect most thoroughly. What an indication of the old catastrophe to our nature six thousand years ago ! How indelible in the human soul is enmity to what is spiritual ; and thus how perceptible in Letterfrack the effect of the fall in Eden ! "

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 106

9. Poor Catholic widow near Roundstone receives Gospel reading

   Roundstone · town · Galway · 1838–1842

   The author visited a poor Roman Catholic widow living on the sea-shore near Roundstone and read passages from an Irish copy of the 'Sinner's Friend.' She responded favourably, saying the reading had sense and reason, and invited a neighbour woman to come hear it.

   Read the passage

   There being, then, no other congregation of Protestants in Connemara but those connected with the Establishment, or our Church, I turn in the next place to its Romanism, which was the prevalent religion, numbering a hundred to one Protestant. My first intercourse with this people showed me what, indeed, I had previously believed, that, if left to themselves and kindly treated, they were generally accessible to the Gospel. This fact will be still more apparent from the following incident, which was the first attempt I made for their enlightenment. Having procured an Irish copy of the " Sinner's Friend," I called with it on a poor Roman Catholic widow, who lived on the sea-shore near Roundstone, and asked her permission to read a portion of it. This was freely granted ; and so I read some passages, setting forth the atonement of Christ and the freedom of salvation. " How do you like that ?" said I, when I had done. Her reply was emphatic. " Go tuige nach dtainoch she Horn f" " Why should I not like it, for it has sense and reason with it ? " While she was speaking, a neighbour woman came to the door, but seeing me, drew back ; on which the widow exclaimed to her in Irish, " Come in, for here is a gentleman that reads prayers as well as a priest or a friar."

   This widow may be regarded as a fair sample of the peasantry generally, provided their minds be not perverted by calumny, or overborne by intimidation ; for religious liberty, though happily the law of the land, does not exist here socially. According to the law, a man may hold and propa-

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 36

   As the companion tells it

   You're coming through Roundstone now, in Galway. In the years around 1838 to 1842, this was country where Roman Catholicism was the prevailing faith, a hundred to one against any Protestant. The author of these sketches made his first attempt at reaching the people here by calling on a poor Roman Catholic widow who lived on the sea-shore near Roundstone. He had with him an Irish copy of the Sinner's Friend, and he asked her permission to read a portion of it. She freely granted it, and he read passages setting forth the atonement of Christ and the freedom of salvation. When he had done, he asked how she liked it. Her reply was emphatic. She said in Irish, which he renders as, Why should I not like it, for it has sense and reason with it. While she was speaking, a neighbour woman came to the door, but seeing him, drew back. The widow called after her in Irish, Come in, for here is a gentleman that reads prayers as well as a priest or a friar. The author took this widow as a fair sample of the peasantry generally, provided their minds were not perverted by calumny or overborne by intimidation. He noted that religious liberty, though the law of the land, did not exist here socially.

10. Seals as an enchanted nation in Connemara folklore

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    In Connemara folklore, seals were believed to be a people under enchantment, capable of shedding their skins and assuming human shape. This belief is illustrated by a previously unprinted story of fishermen who sheltered in a sea-cave and witnessed seals transform into humans who bewailed their slain relatives.

    Read the passage

    Most readers have heard of the ingenious seal on the coast of Mayo, which, when attacked, exclaimed, " Don't kill me ; I am your grandfather." Nor is this Pythagorean opinion of the animal confined to that country. In Connemara, also, they were believed to be a nation under enchantment. In illustration, take the following curious story, which I give in full, as I believe it has never before appeared in print.

    A party of fishermen were out one night plying their vocation between the Killeries and Westport, and there they took refuge for some hours in a sea-cave. One man, having fallen into a deep sleep, remained behind after the others had left. He was awaked by the entrance of seals, ignorant of his presence. To his surprise, they all, after some time, assumed human shapes, and cast their old skins aside. They also conversed together, but the burden of their discourse was sad ; they bewailed their slain relatives. One of them, holding up a piece of flesh, said — "Ah! this is Winny's

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Connemara, this is a land where folklore held seals to be a nation under enchantment. The belief was not unique to this place. On the coast of Mayo, a seal when attacked was said to cry out, "Don't kill me; I am your grandfather." But the same idea took a vivid form here, captured in a story that had never appeared in print before it was written down in this book. A party of fishermen were out one night between the Killeries and Westport. They took refuge for some hours in a sea-cave. One man fell into a deep sleep and remained behind after the others had left. He was woken by the entrance of seals, who did not know he was there. After some time, to his surprise, they assumed human shapes and cast their old skins aside. They spoke together, and the burden of their discourse was sad. They bewailed their slain relatives. One of them, holding up a piece of flesh, said, "Ah! this is Winny's..."

11. Servant-maid's resistance to wearing a bonnet in Galway

    Galway · city · Galway

    A servant-maid in Galway obtained a situation on condition she wear a bonnet, to which she and others of her rank strongly objected. She put it on for Mass but hid it in a grove as soon as she was out of sight of her master's house.

    Read the passage

    That they do not improve equally at home is owing, as we before observed, to their absurd antipathy to innovation. Of this, an amusing case came to my knowledge at Galway. There a servant-maid obtained a situation on condition of wearing a bonnet to which she, with others of her rank, had a great objection. The next Sunday, when going to Mass, was the first time in which she had occasion to appear with this new-fangled article, and she did put it on; but no sooner was she out of sight of her master's house, than she hid it in a grove till her return.

    Of all the instances of their improvement which came under my observation, the most remarkable was at the Ballinahinch Fishery. There, within three miles of Boundstone, a Scotchman had set up an establishment for curing salmon, by enclosing them hermetically in tin cases, in which state they would keep fresh for many years. This process requires no small skill on part of the workmen; and yet, some of them, who were intelligent and well dressed when I saw them, had come there only a few years before girdled with straw ropes to keep their rags together. And in that

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 18

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway, there's a story from here about a servant-maid and a bonnet. She obtained a situation on condition of wearing one, a condition she and others of her rank had a great objection to. The next Sunday, going to Mass, was the first time she had occasion to appear with this new-fangled article, and she did put it on. But no sooner was she out of sight of her master's house than she hid it in a grove till her return. The writer calls this an absurd antipathy to innovation, and says it is why they do not improve equally at home. Of all the instances of improvement he observed, the most remarkable was at the Ballinahinch Fishery, within three miles of Boundstone. A Scotchman had set up an establishment for curing salmon, enclosing them hermetically in tin cases, in which state they would keep fresh for many years. Some of the workmen, intelligent and well dressed when he saw them, had come there only a few years before girdled with straw ropes to keep their rags together.

12. Sick man in wretched cabin near Galway

    Galway · city · Galway

    The author entered a windowless single-room cabin near Galway and found a sick, half-naked man cowering over a hearth with no coals. The man and his brother shared the dwelling with a horse that occupied half the cottage, and they supported themselves by the labour of that horse.

    Read the passage

    felt strongly inclined to enter a poor cabin on the way-side. Having stepped in, I could not at first see any object distinctly, as there was no window. The only light entered through the chimney, and that was very dim ; so I called out, " Is there any one here ?" I Avas answered by a weak voice in a corner ; and looking in that direction, I noticed in the shadowy light the figure of a man half naked, and cowering over a hearth, for no coals were visible. He seemed of middle age, but was bent down like an old man. As my eye became accustomed to the weak light, I noticed behind me a place apparently for tying a cow, also the debris of the animal — though the whole cabin was only a single room. After a few common-place questions to the man, which he answered in a broken, querulous voice, I asked was he sick. He said he was — had taken a cold from a great wetting ; it had settled on his chest, and was followed by a severe cough, with loss of appetite and emaciation. I pitied him, and asked how he lived, or had he a wife and family. He said he had not, but that his brother and himself lived together, and supported themselves by the labour of a horse, which was the occupant of half the cottage. He said that he felt his illness the more as this was the busy season, being spring time. I reminded him that God did it for a good end, which was to

    116 COMFORT FOB THE AFFLICTED POOR.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 55

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Galway, there is a story from the roads nearby. A traveller once felt strongly inclined to enter a poor cabin on the wayside. He stepped in, and could not at first see any object distinctly, as there was no window. The only light entered through the chimney, and that was very dim. He called out, "Is there any one here?" A weak voice answered from a corner. Looking that way, he noticed in the shadowy light the figure of a man half naked, cowering over a hearth, for no coals were visible. The man seemed of middle age, but was bent down like an old man. As the traveller's eye grew accustomed to the weak light, he noticed behind him a place apparently for tying a cow, also the debris of the animal, though the whole cabin was only a single room. After a few common-place questions, which the man answered in a broken, querulous voice, the traveller asked was he sick. He said he was. He had taken a cold from a great wetting. It had settled on his chest and was followed by a severe cough, with loss of appetite and emaciation. The traveller pitied him and asked how he lived, or had he a wife and family. He said he had not. His brother and himself lived together, and supported themselves by the labour of a horse, which was the occupant of half the cottage. He said he felt his illness the more as this was the busy season, being spring time. The traveller reminded him that God did it for a good end.

13. Clan protection against persecution in Connemara

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    A woman near cabins by a lake described how her husband was physically attacked in his own home for sending children to the Mission School, suffering a disabling hand wound. She noted that the Joyce, C., and L. clans were too strong to be interfered with in Connemara, reflecting the persistence of old clan loyalties.

    Read the passage

    a day, and the husband no more. Their chief food is potatoes, generally without milk or any thing else ; sometimes they eat India meal. She once had a brother who made money in England ; he took ill there ; and though attended by " six doctors," died in the Isle of Wight. She got nothing from him, or any other friend abroad ; though she has, in America, " two score of cousins," male and female. She is a Joyce by birth, therefore her clan is large. Her husband has been often annoyed, and sometimes threatened, for sending his children to the Mission School ; but he persists in doing so. On one occasion, two men attempted to beat him for this in his own house ; and when he took up the pothooks to defend himself, one of them drew a prong of it into the palm of his hand, tearing off the flesh. By this means he was disabled for work a whole spring ; but a lady visiting at Mr. D.'s, supported them. She thought even worse would have been done to him only that his clan are too strong to meddle with ; " and, indeed," said she, with some pride, " the C.'s, or the L.'s, or my own people, the Joyces, are not to be touched in Connemara." I was amused at this spice of old clanism.

    As a further example of the persecution, she told me that

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 57

14. Fairy beliefs and water rituals on Aran Islands

    near Aran Islands · island or archipelago · Galway

    The people of the Aran Islands placed such faith in fairies that scarcely anyone would venture out after night. If obliged to bring in water, they would first light a wisp of straw and wave it three times over the vessel, repeating 'In the name of the Father, &c.' to expel the fairies from the water.

    Read the passage

    " This people place such faith in the fairies that scarcely one of them will ever venture out after night. But if they are obliged to bring in water they will first light a wisp of straw and waive it three times over the vessel, repeating each

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 90

15. Fleeing fisherman waylaid entering Westport

    Westport · town · Mayo · 1821

    After recovering from the Leenane Bay assault, the man sold all he possessed and fled to Westport for safety. Before even entering the town, he was waylaid by unknown enemies who struck him several times before friends came to his rescue.

    Read the passage

    After this assault, he was confined to his bed thirteen days. On his recovery, dreading another and worse attack, he resolved to sell all he possessed, and to fly the country. His place of refuge was Westport ; but even there he was not safe ; for before entering the town, he was waylaid by some enemies unknown, who struck him several times, and would have done worse only he was saved out of their hands by friends, who came to his rescue.

    Amid all this persecution for his loyalty to his earthly sovereign, he was still a staunch Romanist. But now an event occurred which changed his whole religious history. Visiting one day in the house of a neighbour in Westport, he saw a book on the table ; he took it up. and asked what

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up toward Westport now. In 1821 a fisherman who had been attacked at Leenane Bay lay in bed for 13 days recovering. When he could move again, he was so afraid of another assault that he sold everything he had and fled here for safety. But Westport did not give him shelter straight away. Before he even got into the town, enemies no one could name waylaid him and struck him several times. They would have done worse, but friends came and pulled him out of their hands. Through all of this persecution he stayed a staunch Romanist. Then something happened that changed his whole religious history. Visiting a neighbour's house in Westport, he saw a book on the table. He picked it up and asked what it was.

16. Folk belief about Lucifer's fall and the Mother of God

    Claddagh · electoral division · Galway

    A Claddagh devotee named N maintained that the devil was cast out of heaven because he refused to humble himself to the Mother of God. He insisted God foresaw her existence and ordered all angels to bow to her, and that proud Lucifer was cast out with his followers for refusing.

    Read the passage

    As if to turn the subject, N. caught at this last idea, and confidently maintained, that the reason why the devil was cast out was, because he refused to humble himself to the Mother of God ! I told him she was not then in existence ; but his answer was ready : " God foresaw that she would be, and ordered all the angels to bow to her. Proud Lucifer refusing, was cast out with all his followers." At this odd notion, I could not refrain from laughter, saying, that I would not give ear to such " old wives' fables." But he insisted that it was all true. I told him that I would adhere to whatever was in his own Bible, but that this was not.

    152 ARGUMENTS OF ROMAN CATHOLICS.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 73

17. Irish-language sermon at Clifden school-house warmly received

    Clifden · town · Galway · 1841

    In 1841 the author preached an Irish-language sermon in the only school-house in Clifden, made available by H. D'Arcy of Clifden Castle. Unlike Roundstone, no threats were issued and Roman Catholics attended, conducting themselves with great propriety, with at least one speaking approvingly of the doctrine.

    Read the passage

    In Clifden my reception was all that could be desired. By the kindness of H. D'Arcy, Esq., then of Clifden Castle, I got the use of the only school-house that was in the town ; and there I had a good congregation. No threats, as at Roundstone, had been issued against Roman Catholics attending, so they formed part of the audience, and conducted themselves with great propriety. Next day, too, I was informed by a Protestant friend, that at least one of them spoke approvingly of my doctrine.

    Nor was that all. Eighteen years afterwards, when on a visit to Galway, I met an aged man, with whom I was then unacquainted ; and he, after asking me was I the minister who had preached the Irish sermon in Clifden, repeated the text and the most striking part of the sermon. It was a place in which, to illustrate the efficacy of Christ's blood to take away sin, irrespective of any worthiness on our part, I compared it to the blood of the paschal lamb sprinkled on the lintel and door-posts of the Israelites, and of which the

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 101

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Clifden, in Galway, this is the town where, in 1841, the author preached an Irish-language sermon. He was given the use of the only school-house in the town, through the kindness of H. D'Arcy of Clifden Castle, and there he had a good congregation. Unlike Roundstone, no threats had been issued against Roman Catholics attending. They came and formed part of the audience, and conducted themselves with great propriety. The next day a Protestant friend told him that at least one of them had spoken approvingly of his doctrine. That was not all. Eighteen years afterwards, when on a visit to Galway, he met an aged man he did not know. The man asked was he the minister who had preached the Irish sermon in Clifden, then repeated the text and the most striking part of the sermon. It was a passage where, to illustrate the efficacy of Christ's blood to take away sin, irrespective of any worthiness on our part, he compared it to the blood of the paschal lamb sprinkled on the lintel and door-posts of the Israelites.

18. Clifden sermon remembered by aged man eighteen years later

    Clifden · town · Galway · 1841–1859

    About eighteen years after the 1841 Clifden sermon, the author met an aged man in Galway who asked whether he was the minister who had preached the Irish sermon in Clifden. The man then repeated the text and the most striking part of the sermon, which had compared Christ's blood to the paschal lamb.

    Read the passage

    Nor was that all. Eighteen years afterwards, when on a visit to Galway, I met an aged man, with whom I was then unacquainted ; and he, after asking me was I the minister who had preached the Irish sermon in Clifden, repeated the text and the most striking part of the sermon. It was a place in which, to illustrate the efficacy of Christ's blood to take away sin, irrespective of any worthiness on our part, I compared it to the blood of the paschal lamb sprinkled on the lintel and door-posts of the Israelites, and of which the

    Scripture says, " When He seeth the blood the Lord

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 101

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Clifden, there is a story from 1841. A minister had preached in Irish in this town. Eighteen years later, in Galway, he met an aged man he did not know. The man asked was he the minister who had preached the Irish sermon in Clifden. Then the old man repeated the text and the most striking part of the sermon. The minister had compared Christ's blood to the blood of the paschal lamb sprinkled on the lintel and door-posts of the Israelites, to show that Christ's blood takes away sin regardless of our worthiness. The Scripture says, "When He seeth the blood the Lord."

19. Eagle nest and eaglet raid near Recess

    near Recess · population centre · Galway

    A young local guide from Recess shared oral lore about eagles building their nests on flat, unfrequented moors rather than high hills. He noted that boys had successfully stolen eaglets from a nest south of Recess, despite fierce attacks from the adult birds.

    Read the passage

    nor what it was to be a sinner, nor how to be saved. As to other matters, he was not wanting. On the topography of the place he was well made-up, having learned it on nature's own map. He was also acquainted with the natural history of the badgers and other " fauna" of the mountains. Of the eagle, he related what was new to me — that it built its nest, not on the high hills, but rather on the flat moors, if remote and unfrequented. He added that one of these nests was lately found to the south of Eecess ; that the eggs in it were not larger than those of a hen ; and that the eaglets were carried off successfully by some boys, though fiercely attacked by the old birds. If so, they were more fortunate than a man in a similar encounter, of which I was told twenty years before. He happened to come suddenly upon an eagle on the ground, and before the bird could spread his broad wings for flight, struck at him with a stick. The eagle adroitly parried the blow ; and then, with one stroke, drove his powerful beak through the man's wrist-bone ! This ended the combat.

    Returning to the subject of religion, I found that my guide knew not who was the first man ; but, when told his name, he remembered that his wife was Eve. That was the extent of his theological studies. However, he received instruction with much docility ; and, after I had explained to him what was a new heart, and how to seek it, I understood him to promise that he would do so.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 97

20. Herring fishery and salt-pan shortage at Westport and Galway

    Westport · town · Mayo

    The western herring fishery was once enormously productive, with single fishermen catching thousands of fish in hours, but the bottleneck was a lack of salt for preservation. Only two salt-pans existed nearby—one at Westport and one at Galway—and the shortfall meant thousands of herrings rotted on shore, wasting rich oil.

    Read the passage

    Of the herring fishery a few words may be said in passing. Its great value at one time may be learned from the single fact • that a gentleman living on the coast told me that he had put up six hundred barrels in one season ! Again, in the space of two hours, a fisherman once caught five thousand two hundred fishes. On another occasion, in a quarter of an hour, he took eight thousand ; and afterwards, with two boats, he took in two nights, fifteen thousand, and twentyone thousand, respectively. Equally successful, also, were Scotch fishermen who then fished off our western shores every winter. Indeed the difficulty at that time was, not to catch the herrings, but to find salt for them. There were only two salt-pans adjacent, one at Westport and the other at Galway ; so the supply fell far short of the demand. Sometimes £20 were paid for a single ton ; and yet the profit realised by it was a hundred per cent ! Besides the fish that was barrelled, a great deal was carried away in baskets on horses' backs by cadgers who, in the season, swarmed on the shores and mountain-roads. Still, after all this consumption, in great takes, thousands of herrings were thrown on the shore, as useless, from the want of salt ; putrifying in large masses, out of which there ran streams of rich oil.

    16 SEALS STORT OF ONE.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 9

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Westport, the town was once tied to one of the great natural riches of this coast. The herring fishery here was enormous. A gentleman on the coast once put up six hundred barrels in a single season. One fisherman caught five thousand two hundred herrings in two hours. On another day he took eight thousand in a quarter of an hour. With two boats, in two nights, he landed fifteen thousand and then twenty one thousand. Scotch fishermen came every winter to fish off these western shores and did just as well. The difficulty was not catching the fish. It was finding salt to preserve them. There were only two salt-pans anywhere near, one at Westport and one at Galway, and the supply fell far short of what was needed. Sometimes people paid twenty pounds for a single ton, and still made a hundred per cent profit on it. Cadgers swarmed the shores and mountain-roads in season, carrying fish away in baskets on horses' backs. But after all that, thousands of herrings were thrown on the shore as useless, for want of salt. They rotted in large masses, and out of them ran streams of rich oil.

21. Journey to Tully: sheep theft and wild roads of Connemara

    Tully · townland · Galway · 1841

    In 1841 the author walked on foot from Clifden toward Tully, on the sea-shore about ten or twelve miles distant, through unfrequented roads of northern Connemara where no towns then existed. He met one traveller driving sheep whose wool had been shorn in patches by thieves who purloined materials for stockings while the animals grazed on the mountains.

    Read the passage

    Resuming my first tour, (in 1841,) I proceeded in the next place to the northern parts of Connemara. Here are no towns ; nor were there yet the numerous villas which, with their reclaimed farms and tasteful pleasure-grounds, now adorn this once wild and desolate region. Not knowing how long I might remain here, or what course I might take, I set out on foot, unincumbered with any vehicle, and literally without " two coats or staves." Nor did I bring even a guide, hoping to inquire my way as I went on. The first place to which I directed my steps was Tully, being slightly acquainted with the Curate. This place lies on the sea-shore, about ten or twelve miles from Clifden. During this long walk, I met only one fellow-traveller ; so unfrequented were the roads at that time. Nor did I get from him much information. To my inquiry respecting the distance of Tully, his only answer was, " A good while, Sir ;" measuring the distance, not by miles, but by time, as is still done in the East. I then asked him why the .flock of sheep which he drove presented so ragged an appearance, their wool beingshorn in patches, which gave the creatures a most ludicrous aspect. The explanation was, that this was the work of thieves, who thus purloined materials for stockings, when the animals were grazing on the mountains. Soon after, he turned aside at a bye-road, leaving me to pursue the rest of my journey alone. But I found agreeable occupation in admiring the sublime scenery, both landward and seaward, and which at that time possessed the charm of being to me altogether new.

    Prominent in grandeur, rose Mulrea, which seemed quite near though in, the County Mayo. The day being fine, it

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 104

22. O'Flaherty raids on Galway and the gate prayer

    Galway · city · Galway

    Local tradition records that the O'Flahertys attacked the town of Galway so mercilessly that citizens inscribed a prayer on the western gate: 'From the ferocious O'Flahertys, good Lord deliver us.' The O'Flahertys were known for their forays against the mostly English inhabitants.

    Read the passage

    traditions regarding them would supply an Irish Walter Scott with materials for volumes. In their forays, they - sometimes attacked the town of Galway itself; and so unmerciful were they to the citizens, then mostly English, that the latter inscribed on their western gate the pathetic prayer — " From the ferocious OTlahertys, good Lord deliver us."

    If we may credit other traditions, this old castle was the scene of similar outrages. They relate that it had a trapdoor, through which unsuspecting victims were precipitated into the river on which the castle was built ; and there the dead bodies were caught in an iron grating, from which they were privately carried off and buried. In allusion to these stories, an Irish distich describes Auchnanure as not only " a castle of wine," but also " a castle of sighs," and " a castle of plunder."

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 3

23. Thomas Martin of Ballinahinch Castle attends Protestant service

    Roundstone · town · Galway · 1838–1842

    Thomas Martin, Esq., of Ballinahinch Castle, with his wife and daughter, appeared among the worshippers at the first Protestant service at Roundstone. Though disposed to join the Church, they later drew off, possibly due to aristocratic connections.

    Read the passage

    To complete the religious delineation of Connemara, I need only add, that a little before my arrival, a small settlement of Presbyterians had taken place at Roundstone. As they were without a minister, I volunteered my services, and conducted for them a service every Sabbath. Amongst the worshippers on the very first occasion, appeared a middle-aged gentleman and two ladies, who turned out to be the celebrated Thomas Martin, Esq., of Ballinahinch Castle, with his wife and

    70 HOW A POOR ROMANIST RECEIVED THE GOSPEL.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 36

    As the companion tells it

    Up ahead is Roundstone. A small settlement of Presbyterians gathered here in the years around 1838, and when they had no minister, the author volunteered and held a service every Sabbath. On the very first occasion, a middle-aged gentleman and two ladies appeared among the worshippers. They turned out to be Thomas Martin of Ballinahinch Castle, with his wife and daughter. They seemed disposed to join the Church, but later drew off, possibly owing to aristocratic connections.

24. Winter lodging in an unfinished Connemara house

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    The author lived for four months in an unfinished two-storey house in Connemara where rain leaked through the roof, requiring plates and dishes to cover his bed. Another minister wept when shown his quarters in the same miserable lodging.

    Read the passage

    To these discomforts may be added that of the house in which I dwelt. Finding the inn too public a place to lodge in, I was obliged, in want of a better, to put up with lodgings as miserable as need be. Outwardly the house seemed good enough, being two storeys and slated. But it had never been finished inside ; and thus resembled a large barn. Of the interior, a part was enclosed for me, forming a small sitting and bed-room. So far so good ; but, alas ! the roof was not staunch. Through chinks in it the sky was visible, and when the winter set in, I had to " rough it" in earnest. To keep oif the drops, my host covered my bed with plates and dishes ; but the moisture would not take the hint that its presence was unwelcome ; so on my awakening some mornings, I saw pools of it on the earthen floor! In this wretched abode I spent four months. A brother minister, who was appointed to take my place for six weeks, actually wept when shown his quarters. And yet many Romanists, who saw me

    WHAT IS A RELIGIOUS PROFESSION* 25

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 13

    As the companion tells it

    As the road takes you through Connemara, this was a place where a minister once spent a hard winter. He had found the inn too public to lodge in, and took what he could get. The house looked well enough from outside, two storeys and slated, but it had never been finished inside. It resembled a large barn. A part of the interior was enclosed for him, a small sitting room and bedroom. But the roof was not staunch. Through chinks in it the sky was visible. When winter set in, his host covered his bed with plates and dishes to keep off the drops, but the moisture would not take the hint. On some mornings he woke to pools of it on the earthen floor. He spent four months in this wretched abode. A brother minister, appointed to take his place for six weeks, actually wept when shown his quarters.

25. Bible loan in Westport sparks conversion

    Westport · town · Mayo · 1821

    While visiting a neighbour's house in Westport, the persecuted man spotted a Bible on the table and borrowed it. After fourteen months comparing the Protestant Bible with a Douay Bible, he became convinced Rome was wrong and abandoned its communion, enduring renewed persecution for forty years.

    Read the passage

    Amid all this persecution for his loyalty to his earthly sovereign, he was still a staunch Romanist. But now an event occurred which changed his whole religious history. Visiting one day in the house of a neighbour in Westport, he saw a book on the table ; he took it up. and asked what

    80 THE LOAN OF A BIBLE, AND ITS RESULTS.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 40

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up through Westport. In 1821, a man visiting a neighbour here saw a book on the table and asked what it was. He borrowed it. After fourteen months comparing that Protestant Bible with a Douay Bible, he became convinced Rome was wrong and abandoned its communion, enduring renewed persecution for forty years.

26. Carrion-crows mistaken for troubled spirits

    Roundstone · town · Galway

    Carrion-crows on the desolate moor near Roundstone flit away so silently that the superstitious old people mistook them for troubled spirits doomed to spend a period in bird form. The author vouches that this belief, resembling Hindu transmigration of souls, was genuinely held by the elderly of the area.

    Read the passage

    As a small set-off to this utter absence of life, I may mention that afterwards I discovered in this same place one species of bird. And none could be more in keeping with such a scene. It was the carrion-crow, or, as it might be called, the Irish vulture. These birds are found here in pairs, standing moodily on heathery hillocks ; and, when disturbed by the unwonted presence of man, they flit away so noiselessly that I do not wonder at their being mistaken by the •euperstitioxis for troubled spirits, doomed, for their sins, to spend a certain period in this melancholy shape. This superstition may seem strange, bearing so close a resemblance to the Hindoo transmigration of souls ; but I can vouch for the fact of its having been believed by the old people.

    Being so cheerless, the scene before me would seem illcalculated to cause such deep impressions on the mind as I have already stated. But that very desolation itself, being so profound and novel, was deeply impressive ; while the less pleasing details were swallowed up in two elements of the sublime. One was — a boundless expanse of surface below ; and the other was — a boundless expanse of sunshine above. The effect of these on the mind excluded every other feeling, and filled it with pleasurable emotions. Instead of hedges bounding your view, as elsewhere, with only a narrow strip of sky visible above you, here you behold at one glance hundreds of square miles, spanned at their extremities by the whole concave heaven, filled of a fine day with a blaze of

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 11

    As the companion tells it

    Coming up now is Roundstone in Galway. The moorland around here was once so empty that the author found almost no life at all, save one species of bird. He called it the carrion-crow, or the Irish vulture. These birds live here in pairs, standing moodily on heathery hillocks. When disturbed by the unwritten presence of man, they flit away so noiselessly that he did not wonder at their being mistaken by the superstitious for troubled spirits, doomed for their sins to spend a certain period in this melancholy shape. The superstition may seem strange, bearing so close a resemblance to the Hindoo transmigration of souls, but he vouches for the fact of its having been believed by the old people. The scene was so cheerless it would seem ill calculated to cause deep impressions. But that very desolation, being so profound and novel, was deeply impressive. The less pleasing details were swallowed up in two elements of the sublime. One was a boundless expanse of surface below, and the other was a boundless expanse of sunshine above. The effect of these on the mind excluded every other feeling, and filled it with pleasurable emotions. Instead of hedges bounding your view with only a narrow strip of sky visible, here you behold at one glance hundreds of square miles, spanned at their extremities by the whole concave heaven, filled of a fine day with a blaze of sunshine.

27. Holy water used to stop storm damage

    Kilronan · village · Galway

    During a severe storm in Kilronan, local women attempted supernatural remedies to protect their homes. An old woman poured holy water on her thatch to stop it from blowing away.

    Read the passage

    Next morning, after going out I found the village in commotion. A storm was blowing down their cabins, or unroofing them ; and it threatened to sink their boats in the harbour. As my object always is to describe things as I found them, no Roman Catholic can be offended at my mentioning that, amid this storm, an old woman, attempted to stop her thatch being blown away by pouring upon it a bottle of holy water ! Nor was that all. With still greater faith — or credulity, as the reader will have it — another woman sent

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 88

28. Impromptu meeting at marble quarry near Recess

    near Recess · population centre · Galway

    At the marble quarry near Recess, an old woman from the village below described suffering greatly from sickness, especially night palpitations. During an impromptu religious address to gathered young people, a girl devoutly crossed herself at the mention of hell, and the old woman whispered to a girl who had let cows into the potatoes.

    Read the passage

    A few days previously I had an interesting little meeting at the same place. Having gone to see the quarry, an old woman approached from the village beneath in order to sell stockings. In the conversation that followed, she told me that she suffered greatly from sickness, especially night palpitations. Of this latter, her description was most emphatic

    202 MEETING AT THE MARBLE QUARRY.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 98

29. Isolated cabin on a steep mountain slope near Mweelrea

    near Mweelrea · mountain or mountain range · Mayo

    While observing the mountainous landscape near Mweelrea, the author noted a profound and solitary silence, interrupted only by the sight of a small child standing at the door of a precariously positioned cabin.

    Read the passage

    Long I gazed on the wondrous scene. But after the first excitement had subsided, my principal feeling was that of a painful solitude. The only human being in sight was a little child, who, at this moment, stood gazing up at me from the door of a cabin which hung, like a swallow's nest, on a steep declivity. No other living creature was visible, except a few sheep like white dots on the heath, and some birds of a dark colour which were on the wing, far down between me and the abyss. With these exceptions, all around was a deathlike solitude. The stillness was broken only by the rumbling of the distant waves, or by the sudden whirl of the mountain gusts. This awful wildness was increased by the unearthly shapes of the mountains, and the sombre hue of the heath, all forming a picture of terrible sublimity.

    But suddenly the scene changes. From the Atlantic, new clouds roll along, and shroud Mulrea, and other high peaks ; while the east, still bright, forms a striking contrast to the darkening west. Simultaneously, the wind rises, and sweeps in whirling eddies through the winding ravines, and round the beetling cliffs. Again the clouds obtain the empire of the skies, and all is dark. A heavy shower succeeds. In ten minutes the rain ceases, and all is bright as before. The clouds, after discharging their contents, again became beautifully luminous, and cover a great part of the sky with their dazzling drapery.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 109

30. Irish sermon at Salruc with national-air hymns

    Salrock · townland · Galway

    At Salruc, the seat of General Thompson, an Irish sermon was held in the parlour. The curate led the singing of hymns to national airs, in which the Roman Catholic congregation heartily joined, the author's first experience of fellow-countrymen praising God in Irish.

    Read the passage

    onward to Salruc, the seat of General Thompson. This gentleman treated me with great kindness ; and even gave me the use of his own parlour for an Irish sermon. Intimation of the service was communicated by the Curate, who for this purpose visited the surrounding cabins, and soon collected a good audience. Being himself an Irish speaker, he led the singing ; and, as the people knew not our sacred music, being Roman Catholics, he sang the hymns to national airs, in which they heartily joined. Of course, I would not approve of this practice as a rule ; but that was an exceptional case. This being the first time that I had heard a congregation of my fellow-countrymen praising God in their own expressive language, I was deeply affected by it ; and my interest in the service was still further increased by a little incident which occurred whilst I was preaching. After depicting at the outset our fallen condition, with our inability to save ourselves, I then asked, "Is there no remedy? or shall I describe it to you?" Here one man, apparently anxious to hear it, cried out in Irish, " A hundred welcomes before you !" Indeed they all listened with great attention, so that, next to the Galway meeting, this was the most encouraging one which I had yet addressed.

    Having some time afterwards described the scene to a gifted Scotch lady — a sister of Miss C. Pringle — she made it the subject of a beautiful hymn, of yhich I give two verses : —

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 107

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere close to Salrock, the traveller passed through the old demesne of Salruc, the seat of General Thompson. The General treated the author with great kindness and gave him the use of his own parlour for an Irish sermon. The Curate visited the surrounding cabins to spread word of the service and soon collected a good audience. Being himself an Irish speaker, he led the singing. The people knew not the sacred music, being Roman Catholics, so he sang the hymns to national airs, in which they heartily joined. The author would not approve of this practice as a rule, but acknowledged it as an exceptional case. It was the first time he had heard a congregation of his fellow-countrymen praising God in their own expressive language, and he was deeply affected by it. His interest in the service increased further during his preaching. After depicting our fallen condition and our inability to save ourselves, he asked, 'Is there no remedy, or shall I describe it to you?' One man, apparently anxious to hear it, cried out in Irish, 'A hundred welcomes before you.' They all listened with great attention, so that next to the Galway meeting, this was the most encouraging one he had yet addressed. Some time afterwards he described the scene to a gifted Scotch lady, a sister of Miss C. Pringle, and she made it the subject of a beautiful hymn.

31. Scripture readings among poor Catholics in Newcastle

    near Newcastle · street · Galway

    The author chose the western suburb of Newcastle in Galway for visiting poor Roman Catholic families at home and reading scripture. The first family hesitated, asking what he would charge, but welcomed him warmly once he reassured them it was free.

    Read the passage

    My first operation was a series of visits to poor Roman Catholics, in their own homes. The place I selected for this purpose was the western suburbs, called Newcastle. Here I stood before the first open door that I met, and introduced myself to the family within by asking leave to read for them a portion of God's Word. In a Protestant country, this request woul§ have appeared intelligible enough ; but here it seemed in the highest degree novel and perplexing. They knew not what to reply. True, they evinced no repugnance to the Scripture, as is sometimes the case, but neither did they accept my offer to read it for them. At length, however, the mistress of the house walked over to the door where I stood, and, still hesitating, asked me, " Sir, what will you charge us ?" Having relieved her mind on that point, she cheerfully pulled aside the half door between us, and begged me to come in and read for them, and " God bless you."

    So read I did, seated in the best chair. Her children gathered round me ; and, with herself, listened with attention and surprise, for to them it was all new. This was all the fee that I desired for my trouble, and I felt richly repaid.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 86

    As the companion tells it

    Somewhere about Newcastle, on its western edge, a man once went door to door among poor Catholic families, asking to read the Bible in their homes. He chose this suburb on purpose. The first open door he came to, he introduced himself and asked leave to read a portion of God's Word. The family did not know what to say. They showed no dislike of the Scripture, but they did not accept his offer either. Then the mistress of the house came to the door where he stood and, still hesitating, asked him, "Sir, what will you charge us?" Once he had relieved her mind on that point, she pulled aside the half door and begged him to come in and read for them, and said, "God bless you." So he did read, seated in the best chair. Her children gathered round him, and she with them, and they listened with attention and surprise, for to them it was all new. This was all the fee he desired, and he felt richly repaid.

32. Ancient battle and place-name origin at Moycullen

    Moycullen · town · Galway

    Tradition holds that a great battle was fought at Moycullen in ancient times, where a native prince defeated and slew Mahanon Mac Lir, a celebrated Sea-king and Legislator of the Isle of Man. The place derives its name from this conqueror, not from the Irish word for holly-tree.

    Read the passage

    In the absence of other attractions along this road, a stranger may be interested on learning, that at the first stage — Moycullen — was fought, in ancient times, a great battle, in which a native Prince defeated and slew Mahanon Mac Lir, celebrated as a Sea-king and as the Legislator of the Isle of Man. From this conqueror the place derives its name, and not, as some suppose, from the Irish name of the holly-tree.

    Some miles farther on, the road passes over what was at that tune a natural bridge, near which stands the ruined Castle of Auchnanure. For ages this was a stronghold of the O'Flahertys — a powerful clan, who were the possessors of this country, and the plunderers of the surrounding districts. In fact they were the MacGregors of the west; and the

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 2

33. Branagan's famine-year mission in Mayo

    Mayo · parish · Mayo · 1846–1847

    The Rev. Mr. Branagan, a convert from Roman Catholicism, established a mission in Mayo around 1846. During the famine year he provided both temporal and spiritual relief to many people there, supported by Rev. Dr. Edgar of Belfast who raised funds and sent labourers into the field.

    Read the passage

    Five years after Dr Carlile and I had thus entered the field, the Rev. Mr. Branagan, a convert from Rome, and a very laborious missionary, set on foot another mission in Mayo ; and during the famine year, was temporally as well as spiritually, a messenger of mercy to many. He was ably supported by the Rev. Dr. Edgar of Belfast, who having chosen this field as his peculiar province, raised for it large means, and sent into it many useful labourers, educational as well as missionary. Mr. Branagan was still further aided by the Rev. Mr. Allen, who was at that period relieved of his pastoral duties, that he might devote his whole time to the superintendence of the mission schools in the west.

    Such, in the order of time, were the several individuals in our own Church, who, I hope, were called of God to seek the salvation of our Roman Catholic countrymen : and if I do not include in the list various others who have since trodden in their footsteps, it is because my subject is the origin of our mission, and my space is limited, not permitting me to say more. It were wrong, however, not to pay a special tribute of respect to the talents and usefulness of the late Dr. Dill, who, while pastor at Cork, was always a warm friend to missionaries in the south, and who himself, after the famine, laboured for some years efficiently in the Kerry mission that

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 50

34. Day-labour poverty keeps boy from school near Galway Bay

    near Galway Bay · bay · Clare

    When asked why one boy near Galway Bay did not attend school, his companion explained that the boy's father lived by his day's labour, making it hard to send children to school. A suggestion of night school was rejected because poor boys had to work even in winter.

    Read the passage

    meaning small boats, once made of wicker-work covered with hides, but now composed of a wooden frame covered with canvas. They added, that for these lobsters the fishermen got in Galway six shillings a dozen. I then returned to the subject of education, and asked the boy who did not attend school what was the reason. The other replied that his father lived by his day's labour, so that it was hard for him to send his children to school. I then suggested a night school in winter when there is no employment ; but they said that poor boys had to work even then. Happening to have in my hand a Hebrew Psalter, I showed it to the educated boy. He asked me was it a prayer-book. I told him that it was printed in the language anciently spoken by the Jews, the people of God ; but he had not heard even their name. To be more explicit, I said it was the language spoken by Moses, supposing that all had heard of him. But they said they had not ; and one of them, after a little reflection, asked me did I mean Adam. That seemed to be all he knew of Old Testament history. I replied that likely it was the language spoken by Adam ; and then I praised the Irish language, too, which seemed to please them, and they wondered how I knew it.

    Returning to religion, I asked them the first question in their catechism, " Who created you, and put you on the world ?" This they answered correctly. In brief terms I then explained to them that all mankind Avere sinners, and as such deserved hell-fire for ever: that from this we could not deliver ourselves ; that Jesus was the only Saviour, &c. In conclusion, I reminded them of our Lord's words, " What would it profit a man," &c. They listened attentively ; and after I had left, they came running after me with a handkerchief which I had left behind. I praised their honesty, and rewarded them with a small donation, for Avhich they were most grateful.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 79

35. Impoverished fishermen and want of thrift

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    Fishermen in Connemara can catch large quantities of herrings during the season but lack thrift, spending their earnings quickly and falling into 'black want' for the rest of the year. Some fishermen travel long distances to take the temperance pledge from Father Mathew.

    Read the passage

    " Oh, when they have enough, they never think of want. They sometimes, in the fishing season, catch five pounds' worth of herrings in one night, and that in one boat ; but when they have it, they're never asy' till it's spent; and, signs on them, they 're now in black want."

    " They deserve it, too, if they act in that manner. Surely, when they have a siiperabundance to-day, they ought to lay aside something for to-morrow."

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 22

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Connemara, you are travelling through a coast where fishermen once caught five pounds' worth of herrings in a single night from one boat. But as the source says, when they have enough, they never think of want. They were never easy till the money was spent, and then they fell into what was called black want. The judgment was sharp: if they have a superabundance to-day, they ought to lay aside something for to-morrow.

36. Persecuted convert refugee found in Dublin

    Dublin · city · Dublin

    A convert from the West Connaught mission who was obliged by persecution to flee the country was later encountered in Dublin as a zealous Protestant. Other refugees from the same mission turned up in distant counties and in London.

    Read the passage

    One of them, and the first to join the mission, is a farmer, still residing there, who, amid many trials, has ever since continued a consistent member of our Church, and his children, now grown up, happily tread in his footsteps. Another convert, who was obliged by persecution to fly the country, was afterwards met by me in Dublin, a zealous Protestant. A third, also a refugee, turned up in a distant county, where he joined our Church. A fourth, a clever young man, whom I had appointed Irish teacher, was heard of several years subsequently, in London, where he was usefully employed by the city mission, to read the Irish Scriptures to his countrymen. Several others, who owe their enlightenment partly or wholly to this mission, joined other Protestant Churches, and, as far as I have heard, they all continue steadfast, or have died in the Protestant faith.*

    Thus, then, visible fruits were not wanting. But they came far short of my object, which was to form, in connection with our Church, the nucleus • of a native congregation worshipping God in their own Irish language, and thoroughly Celtic in their sympathies, like the Highland congregations attached to the sister Church in Scotland. Could that project have been realized, it would do much to naturalize the Gospel amongst the native Irish. But this part of my work fell to the ground. The time for it was not yet come. However, the succeeding Superintendents — though not knowing Irish — were very useful in other respects, especially by their scriptural and industrial schools. The principal one of these was supported and personally superintended by. a devoted Christian lady, Miss Banks, of Edinburgh, who laboured with the energy and self-denial of a Mrs. Judson. She left it only to die ; but to her, " death was gain."

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 117

    As the companion tells it

    As you pass through Dublin, the city carries a quiet trace of the West Connaught mission. A convert from that mission, obliged by persecution to flee the country, was afterwards met here in Dublin, a zealous Protestant. He was not the only refugee scattered by those trials. Another turned up in a distant county, where he joined the Church. A fourth, a clever young man who had been appointed Irish teacher, was heard of several years later in London, usefully employed by the city mission to read the Irish Scriptures to his countrymen. Several others who owed their enlightenment partly or wholly to the mission joined other Protestant Churches, and as far as the writer knew, they all continued steadfast or died in the Protestant faith. The first to join the mission was a farmer, still residing there, who amid many trials continued a consistent member of the Church, and his children, now grown up, trod in his footsteps. Visible fruits were not wanting, but they came far short of the writer's object, which was to form the nucleus of a native congregation worshipping God in their own Irish language, thoroughly Celtic in their sympathies, like the Highland congregations attached to the sister Church in Scotland. That part of the work fell to the ground. The time for it was not yet come. Succeeding Superintendents, though not knowing Irish, were useful in other respects, especially through their scriptural and industrial schools. The principal one was supported and personally superintended by a devoted Christian lady, Miss Banks of Edinburgh, who laboured with the energy and self-denial of a Mrs. Judson. She left it only to die, but to her,

37. Reclaimed land at Recess lapsing back to wilderness

    near Recess · population centre · Galway

    At Recess in Connemara, a tract of land reclaimed in the previous generation was falling back into its original wildness due to discontinued cultivation, with grass giving way to heath. The author uses this as a metaphor for human nature without Gospel culture.

    Read the passage

    To the Romanist, also, this incident illustrates one great difference between his religion and ours. The one exists only by instruction ; the other flourishes best without it. An untaught Protestant lapses to Rome ; but an untaught Romanist does not lapse to Protestantism. Thus Romanism proves itself to be the natural religion of mankind ; it is that in which they are born, and to which, unrestrained by spiritual influence, they tend. At Recess, in Connemara, is a tract of land which was reclaimed in last generation ; but now, from the discontinuance of culture, it is fast lapsing into its original wildness, and the grass giving way to heath. So of our fallen nature ; without constant Gospel culture, it ever tends to error. Consequently, it is no objection to Protestantism that its nominal professors so often fall away from it. This tendency is what Bossuet calls " the variations of Protestantism ;" and on it he founds his great argument against it. But if he had studied the Scriptures better, he would have learned that, in the visible Church, as distinguished from that which is spiritual, this propensity has always constituted the chief difference between it and other religions. Thus, in Jeremiah ii. 10, 11, the Lord Himself asks — " Pass over the isles of Chittim, and see : and send unto Kedar, and consider diligently, and see if there be such. a thing, Hath a nation changed their gods, which are yet no gods ? But my people have changed their glory for that which doth not profit?" Here, according to God Himself, a tendency to apostasy from their religion is peculiar to His own professing people ; and it is owing to the very excellence of that religion which makes it distasteful to our fallen nature. Thus, too, we account for the fact that the Jews, who were prone to apostasy in old time, are so steadfast now. The

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 35

38. Rev. William Grotty's persecuted labours at Roundstone and Galway

    Roundstone · town · Galway

    Rev. William Grotty, a priest who seceded from Rome and joined the Presbyterian Church, laboured for many years amid much persecution at Roundstone and at Galway. He was described as a talented man of spotless character.

    Read the passage

    About the same time, an interesting mission was organised at Parsonstown, amongst the English-speaking Romanists, by the late intellectually-gifted Dr. Carlile and his sainted wife, assisted by a devoted medical missionary, Dr. Wallace. There they had obtained a good opening, by the secession from Rome of the Messrs. Grotty — two priests ; one of whom, with a considerable portion of his flock, joined the Presbyterian Church. This was Rev. William Grotty, a talented man of spotless character, who afterwards laboured many years, amid much persecution, at Roundstone and at Galway.

    Five years after Dr Carlile and I had thus entered the field, the Rev. Mr. Branagan, a convert from Rome, and a very laborious missionary, set on foot another mission in Mayo ; and during the famine year, was temporally as well as spiritually, a messenger of mercy to many. He was ably supported by the Rev. Dr. Edgar of Belfast, who having chosen this field as his peculiar province, raised for it large means, and sent into it many useful labourers, educational as well as missionary. Mr. Branagan was still further aided by the Rev. Mr. Allen, who was at that period relieved of his pastoral duties, that he might devote his whole time to the superintendence of the mission schools in the west.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 50

39. Traditional dress of the Connemara people

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    The Connemara people had a distinctive traditional dress. Men wore loose, sailor-like jackets and trousers of undyed flannel, while women wore madder-dyed flaming red petticoats and sometimes used bed quilts as shawls due to poverty.

    Read the passage

    Of the females the dress was still more singular. At chapel or market, some of them Avore round their shoulders the quilt taken off the bed ! But this was owing to poverty. Again, instead of a cap or bonnet, the older women wrapped round their heads a small shawl, tied under the chin, thus sacrificing the graces to comfort. But the most remarkable part of their costume was a flaming red petticoat. This was manufactured by themselves, and dyed with madder. Cloaks of the same kind were sometimes used ; and contrasted oddly with the dark colour of the heather. Thus attired, a party of old women would pass, at a distance, for so many dismounted dragoons : begging pardon of my military readers for so undignified a comparison.

    That the deficiencies of the peasantry, in dress or otherwise, were not owing to a want of natural taste on their part, appeared from their rapid improvement when favoured with ordinary advantages. Young persons who obtained situations

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 17

    As the companion tells it

    You are coming into Connemara, in Galway, a country that once had its own way of dressing. The women's dress was the more striking. At chapel or market, some of them wore round their shoulders the quilt taken off the bed. This was owing to poverty. The older women, instead of a cap or bonnet, wrapped a small shawl round their heads, tied under the chin, sacrificing the graces to comfort. But the most remarkable part of their costume was a flaming red petticoat, manufactured by themselves and dyed with madder. Cloaks of the same kind were sometimes used, and contrasted oddly with the dark colour of the heather. Thus attired, a party of old women would pass, at a distance, for so many dismounted dragoons. The deficiencies of the peasantry in dress were not owing to any want of natural taste. They improved rapidly when given ordinary advantages. Young persons who obtained situations showed it plainly.

40. James Campbell of Galway learns Irish for business

    Galway · city · Galway

    James Campbell of Galway, a supporter of good causes in the West, learned Irish phrases to conduct business. The author uses him as an example to encourage ministers in Irish-speaking districts to learn the language for religious purposes.

    Read the passage

    Enough, we hope, has been said to show, that even with these drawbacks, this language is an important means for advancing Ireland's evangelization, which is the object we have had in view in dwelling on the subject. And if so, the duty of using it is specially incumbent on ministers residing in Irish-speaking districts. Many of them cannot become fluent speakers of it ; but they may learn enough to commend them to the people. I have seen a bigoted Romanist disarmed by quoting a single Irish text ; and in most cases it exercises some influence. My worthy friend, James Campbell, Esq., of G-alway — to whom every good cause in the West is indebted— has learned Irish phrases for the transaction of business ; and surely most ministers could do the same for so holy an object. On this point let them learn from the priesthood. Thus, Dr. Gallagher, in his preface to his Irish sermons, presses his brethren, if only able " tolerably to pronounce the Irish," to read a portion of the book for their flocks every Sunday — even a " point or paragraph." " Rather than they should fast," says he, " give them a portion of the loaf." Shall we ministers not take equal pains to break to them in their own tongue a portion of the " bread of life " ?

    62 SAMPLES OF BAD ENGLISH.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 31

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Galway now. The book this comes from holds up a man from here as an example. James Campbell of Galway was a supporter of every good cause in the West. The author calls him a worthy friend. Campbell learned Irish phrases so he could carry on business. The point of telling you this is to shame ministers into doing the same. The author says that ministers living in Irish-speaking districts have a duty to use the language. Most of them will never become fluent speakers, but they can learn enough to commend them to the people. The author says he has seen a bigoted Romanist disarmed by the quoting of a single Irish text, and in most cases it exercises some influence. He says surely most ministers could learn the language for so holy an object. On this, he says, let them learn from the priesthood. Dr. Gallagher, in the preface to his Irish sermons, presses his brethren, if only able to tolerably pronounce the Irish, to read a portion of the book for their flocks every Sunday, even a point or paragraph. Rather than they should fast, says he, give them a portion of the loaf. The author asks, shall we ministers not take equal pains to break to them in their own tongue a portion of the bread of life.

41. Letterfrack Quaker colony and model industry

    Letterfrack · townland · Galway

    A colony of Quakers at Letterfrack demonstrated remarkable industry, transforming a wild uncultivated glen into clean, comfortable habitations. The author saw this as a lesson for all Ireland.

    Read the passage

    " As I approached Ballinakill a few miles further on, I was surprised at the great change in the place. For this I was not unprepared having heard of it long before ; but it exceeded my expectations. At my first visit to Ballinakill it was nearly a waste. But now, besides some beautiful villas, it has got a fine church with a rectory and school-house : and I was told that the congregation on Sabbaths is most respectable. Farther on at Letterfrack is a colony of Quakers, whose characteristic industry has not forsaken them ; for nothing could exceed the comfort and cleanliness of their habitations. What a change from the wild uncultivated glen when I last saw it !

    " One cottage particularly pleased me by its neatness and its nice pleasure-grounds, flanked by as fine a fuschia hedge as I had ever seen. What was my surprise when the driver of the car told me, that formerly this was a filthy hovel where the cattle were housed with the occupants, so that with difficulty he could pick his steps to the fire-place to kindle his pipe ! But the finest house of all is that which was built by

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 106

42. Red deer in Ross recalled by old man

    Ross · townland · Galway

    Red deer lingered in Connemara long after wolves disappeared. Mr. Hardiman knew an old man in Ross who had personally seen red deer grazing among the black cattle on the hills, preserving an oral memory of the animals.

    Read the passage

    out the " meets" of the hounds. At all events, it is now too late to inquire into the vocal powers of these wolves ; for the last of them was killed in Joyce's country in 1700. Still later was the disappearance of the red deer ; for Mr. Hardiman knew " an old man in Ross who had seen them grazing among the black cattle on the hills." In Erris, again, they were common till 1752 ; and in Kerry till 1760. One cause of their destruction, Mr. H. thinks, was a species of murrain, which is still common amongst the deer in Lapland.

    Amongst the birds, O'F. mentions "barnacles, wild geese, swans, cocks of the wood, woodcocks, choughs, rooks, Cornish choughs, with red legs and bills," &c. Nor is Connemara ornithology without its marvels. " Here is the bird engendered by the sea out of timber long lying in the sea : some call them clakes, or soland geese ; some puffins ; others barnacles, because they resemble them. We call them girrin." Not quite so incredible, yet still doubtful, is what he adds concerning the " black eagle ;" that it " kills the deer by grappling him with his claws, and forcing him to run headlong over a precipice."

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 7

43. Religious debate with workmen sitting on creels at nightfall

    Claddagh · electoral division · Galway

    After their day's labour, workmen sat on their creels listening to a religious debate between the author and a devotee named N. The discussion ranged over penance, the nature of the true Church, and folk beliefs about Lucifer being cast out for refusing to bow to the Mother of God.

    Read the passage

    some of this was veiy good ; but that I altogether objected to the part which required us to " satisfy God" for our sins. " That is impossible," said I, " sin being so hateful to God ;" and, as an example, I referred to the eating of the apple by our first parents, which to us would seem a small thing, but for which Adam could never atone. This point I explained fully, and was glad to find that the workmen assented to me more than to him ; for they were listening all the time sitting on their creels. This disconcerted him, so he seemed at a loss for an answer. Indeed it was now late : the night had insensibly darkened around us, and the moon had shone out on the bay. But still the men, after their day's labour, seemed not in the least tired of the controversy. Encouraged by this, I solemnly besought them all not to trust their immortal souls to any thing but the atonement of Jesus ; and reminded them that His sufferings were thrown away if we could for ourselves " satisfy God," as this catechism required.

    " No," said I, addressing N , " if you were all your lifetime

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 73

44. Aughnanure Castle, stronghold of the O'Flahertys

    Aughnanure · townland · Galway

    The ruined Castle of Auchnanure stood near a natural bridge on the road to Connemara and served for ages as a stronghold of the O'Flahertys. This powerful clan possessed the country and plundered surrounding districts, earning comparison with the MacGregors of Scotland.

    Read the passage

    Some miles farther on, the road passes over what was at that tune a natural bridge, near which stands the ruined Castle of Auchnanure. For ages this was a stronghold of the O'Flahertys — a powerful clan, who were the possessors of this country, and the plunderers of the surrounding districts. In fact they were the MacGregors of the west; and the

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 2

45. Lack of middle class and emigration in Connemara

    near Connemara · locality · Galway · 1840

    The author observes that Connemara lacked a middle class around 1840, leaving the rich and poor mutually estranged. He notes that uneducated Celts, by clinging to old customs, often fell behind and were forced to emigrate for bread to foreign lands.

    Read the passage

    stone of the social arch is wanting ; and no laws or political constitution can supply the loss. As a necessary consequence, the rich and poor being too widely separated for sympathy or co-operation, become mutually estranged, and prone to collisions, of which we have seen so many examples in the Continental revolutions. But of such a catastrophe there is no danger in Connemara, and that for other reasons. The Celt is not a revolutionizing animal ; and still less the Celtic mountaineer. He is only too wedded to old customs, and too inclined to content himself with his lot, however miserable, consoling himself with the thought that it' is hereditary. His ancestors were no better off: why, then, should he complain ? In India trades are hereditary : a tailor inherits that employment from his father, and thinks no more of forsaking it for another than of changing his planet. Somewhat the same is the feeling of the old Celts, who, in other respects also, prove themselves to be an oriental race. This principle, being founded on love to ancestors, is so far good ; but in the excess it is ruinous. It hopelessly conflicts with modern civilization, of which the great law is progress : nor is there any resisting this law, more than a railway train in motion. So the uneducated Celt, by clinging to the past, and falling behind his countrymen in their onward march, is either thrown into the ditch, or obliged to fly for bread to foreign lands. This is a terrible calamity to him, with his strong attachment to his native hills and fathers' graves. Alas ! that it should be often the result of the want of a right education, and of an undue attachment to old customs. The extent to which antiquated social notions are still entertained in the remote districts is astonishing. Thus some old people, like the fossils of a past age, imagine that because the land once belonged to their fathers, they are entitled to share its fruits, no matter who tills the soil, or how often it

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 15

    As the companion tells it

    Coming through Connemara now, in Galway. Around 1840, a writer travelling here noticed something missing from the social structure. He said the middle stone of the social arch is wanting, and no laws or political constitution can supply the loss. The rich and poor were too widely separated for sympathy or co-operation, and so they became mutually estranged. Yet he saw no danger of revolution in Connemara. The Celt, he wrote, is not a revolutionizing animal, and still less the Celtic mountaineer. He is too wedded to old customs, too ready to accept his lot however miserable, consoling himself that it is hereditary. His ancestors were no better off, so why should he complain. The writer compared this to India, where trades are hereditary, a tailor inheriting his father's employment and thinking no more of forsaking it than of changing his planet. He said the old Celts prove themselves an oriental race in this respect. This principle, founded on love to ancestors, is good in itself, but in excess it is ruinous. It hopelessly conflicts with modern civilization, whose great law is progress. You cannot resist it any more than a railway train in motion. So the uneducated Celt, clinging to the past and falling behind his countrymen, is either thrown into the ditch or obliged to fly for bread to foreign lands. The writer called this a terrible calamity for a people with strong attachment to their native hills and their fathers' graves. He put the blame on the want of a right education and an undue attachment to old customs. He noted that antiquated social notions still held in the remote districts to an astonishing degree. Some old people, like the fossils of a past age, imagined that because the land once belonged to their fathers, they were entitled to share its fruits, no matter who tills the soil or how often it changes hands.

46. Pious salutations and ancient Christian customs

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    The people of Connemara constantly invoke God in conversation and salutations, using phrases like 'Dia dhuit' and 'cungnamh De'. According to philologist O'Donovan, these salutations date back to early Christianity in Ireland and were used as a watchword by early converts.

    Read the passage

    In the above dialogue the reader will notice the frequent allusion made by this fisherman to the Divine name. The same feature runs through all their conversations. In their forms of salutations they constantly refer to God ; and to Him they invariably ascribe every blessing, temporal and spiritual. Again, in praising any person or animal, thev always bless the same in the name of God ; and they never enter on any undertaking, however trifling, without invoking "cungnamh De" — that is, "the help of God." This custom, though disapproved of by many pious strangers, on the supposition of its being insincere, and engendering an unbecoming familiarity with sacred things, forms, nevertheless, a relic of a purer and Scriptural faith in ancient times. Thus, according to O'Donovan, our greatest Irish philologist, the common salutation, Dia dliuit, equivalent to " God bless you," was originally, Aon DMa dhuit, or the " One God bless you." He adds that this pnrase dates as far back as the

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 22

47. Revival prayer meeting at Castlemaine

    Castlemaine · town · Kerry

    A weekly prayer meeting at Castlemaine drew about sixty attendees and lasted over two hours, as reported in a letter from William Lunham of Tralee. Young country men offered prayers of thanks for being brought from darkness into the light of the Gospel, signaling a religious revival in the locality.

    Read the passage

    Finally, a few years ago, when the funds of our Church ran low, this mission was broken up — a sad necessity. But God did not withdraw His blessing with the removal of that instrumentality. This will appear from the following letter, which I have received while writing these pages, from William Lunham, Esq., a worthy merchant of Tralee. He there describes a revival that has taken place in that very locality, and in which I know that himself has been greatly blessed, though he does not say so. " I am happy to inform you, that the work of the Lord is going on prosperously. Last night I was at the weekly prayer-meeting at Castlemaine. I am rejoiced to say, the Holy Spirit of God was in the midst of it. I think there could not be less than sixty in attendance. It continued for two hours and a-half ; even then, they were not willing to separate. God is doing wonders in our day. There has been a great shaking among the dry bones in this part of God's vineyard. It is really delightful to hear many of the young country lads offering up prayer and thanks at the throne of the Almighty, through our Lord and Saviour, Jesus Christ, for all His mercies, in bringing them from darkness into the marvellous light of the glorious Gospel of our dear Redeemer. Oh ! let all who bear the name of Jesus hold Him up, and then He will draw all men unto Him."

    In another letter, Mr. Lunham laments the giving up of the mission school-house, which I had got erected there twenty years ago ; and he expresses his confident hope, that by this unlooked-for outpouring of God's Spirit, a Church must, after all, be erected in the place. In this great object, which involves the resuscitation of a useful mission, perhaps some brethren in the Lord, who read these pages, and to whom God has given the means, would kindly assist. If

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 117

    As the companion tells it

    As you come through Castlemaine in Kerry, you are passing through a town where a religious revival took place. The mission here had fallen on hard times. The Church's funds ran low, and the mission was broken up, and with it the school-house that had been erected there 20 years before. But the blessing, it seemed, did not go with the mission. A letter came from William Lunham, a merchant of Tralee, while these pages were being written. He described what he had seen at the weekly prayer meeting at Castlemaine. He wrote that the Holy Spirit of God was in the midst of it, and that there could not have been less than 60 in attendance. The meeting continued for 2 and a half hours, and even then, the people were not willing to separate. He said God was doing wonders, and that there had been a great shaking among the dry bones in that part of God's vineyard. He found it delightful to hear many of the young country lads offering prayer and thanks for all God's mercies, in bringing them from darkness into the marvellous light of the Gospel. Lunham hoped that through this outpouring of God's Spirit, a church would be erected in the place after all. The writer noted that Lunham himself had been greatly blessed, though he did not say so in his letter.

48. Missionary visits cabin near Galway, faces hostile householder

    Galway · city · Galway

    Seeking shelter from a shower, the author entered a cabin near the road and found the householder eating dinner. The man abused the author's country, denounced tract-scatterers and 'turn-coats,' and insisted there was only one true Church and one Mass. He rose in anger when the author denied worshipping the Virgin, though his wife tried to mediate kindly.

    Read the passage

    After walking over T hill, a shower came on, to escape

    which, I went to a cabin that stood near the road. I stood outside, waiting to see if I would be asked in. Very soon a woman and girl came to the door, and civilly invited me to sit down till the shower would pass over. Within was a man eating his dinner, who turned out to be the master of the house. Suspecting what I was, no doubt, he looked very sulky. Without ceremony he asked where I came from ; and when I told him, he abused my country, saying that it was a place full of poverty and pride. I answered, that

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 67

49. Arduous six-day journey from Kerry to Dublin

    Kerry · county · Kerry

    Older residents of Kerry recall a time when travelling to Dublin took six full days, prompting adventurous travellers to make their wills and receive tearful send-offs before departing. The author notes that when he first visited Kerry, the journey still took three days, but rail travel had since reduced it to mere hours.

    Read the passage

    That Presbyterianism has been hitherto confined chiefly to one province is true ; but that state of things is changing every day. Increased intercourse is rapidly uniting the whole island. Old people in Kerry remember when it required six whole days to travel from it to Dublin, and when the adventurous travellers, before starting, usually " made their wills," and were then escorted to the coach-office by weeping friends ! Even when I first visited that county, I reached my destination only in the evening of the third day. Now, by rail, it is the journey of hours instead of days. Thus, then, the four provinces are becoming the streets of one city ; and all the Irish people are brought into juxta-position, from which an interchange of religious ideas must follow. That this anticipation is well grounded, and that our Church is likely soon to extend, less or more, over the whole island, appears from the single fact that, during the last twenty years, she has built no less than one hundred and thirty new Churches, of which a large proportion are in the South and West.

    Another qualification of our Church for this work is, that besides a Scriptural creed, which she holds in common witli all the Reformed Churches, she also possesses a Scriptural form of government and worship. This we believe to be her peculiar excellence. We do not put the form before the Church; still it is important, as has been proved by the painful experience of other Churches, whose reformation was not carried equally far. Of this Scriptural Church-govern-

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 48

50. Boatman's pampooties on Aran Islands

    Kilronan · village · Galway

    The author's boatman to Kilronan wore "pampooties," a type of slipper made of cow-hide strapped to the feet with cords, instead of shoes. The author observed this fashion was common on these islands.

    Read the passage

    In my sickness the boatmen treated me with much kindness, specially the wilder-looking of the two. This man could not speak one word of English, and he wore, instead of shoes, a queer kind of slippers called " Pampooties." These were composed of pieces of cow-hide, rudely strapped to the

    182 STRANGE VOYAGE.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 88

51. Clifden Episcopal mission under Rev. D'Arcy, 1860

    Clifden · town · Galway · 1860

    On a return visit to Clifden in 1860, the author found a thriving Episcopalian mission to Roman Catholic people led by Rev. Mr. D'Arcy, with Readers, schools, and a well-managed Protestant Orphanage. He judged it the best specimen of Episcopalian missions in the West that he had seen.

    Read the passage

    My next visit to Clifden was in 1860, that is nineteen years after this tour. Great was the change in the interval. Then no mission existed to the Roman Catholic people ; but now, — under the Eector, Eev. Mr. D'Arcy, — an efficient staff of Readers and other agents were actively engaged in that work. And not without fruits, judging by the large increase of attendance at his church. Having visited his schools also, I was much pleased with the instruction there given, and with the proficiency of the pupils ; and no institution could be better managed than his Protestant Orphanage. Altogether, then, this place presents the best specimen I have seen of the Episcopalian missions in the "West.

    My two first visits to Clifden having been so agreeable, I regret that I cannot say the same of a third, which I paid to it the year after. Great irritation, indeed, then existed, owing to a lawsuit which had taken place between an Episcopalian minister and a priest, for an assault by the latter. As to myself, however, being a stranger, and having nothing to do with the matter, I considered that I had no cause of apprehension on my own account ; and so, without fear, I walked about alone on the beautiful roads surrounding the village. But ere long I had reason to repent of my temerity.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 102

52. Connemara's harsh winters

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    The author observes that few men wish to endure a second winter in Connemara, noting that the region is pleasant only when the weather is mild. He uses this saying to illustrate the hardships faced by missionaries who must persevere through difficult seasons.

    Read the passage

    Is this the language of one repenting of his chosen work ? God forbid. No man, unless he had entered on a missionlife from wrong motives, has ever regretted it ; and for my part, I daily bless God that I was ever led to embark in it. Neither do I wish to discourage others from undertaking that work. God forbid. On the contrary, I never considered it so hopeful as at present. From the first, relying on God's promise, I regarded Ireland's evangelization as certain at some period ; but now, in ways that I cannot stop to particularise, I see the harbingers of its approach. And even were existing agencies withdrawn, I believe that " deliverance would arise from some other place," perhaps from the Roman Catholics themselves. But at the same time, to prevent disappointment, I must candidly state that, in my opinion, final success will require much greater efforts and sufferings. It has been said of Connemara, that " few men like to spend a second winter in it " — that is, it is a pleasant place only when the elements are asleep. So of this mission ; its summer time is very pleasant, but " a second winter" in it is what few will endure. And yet, such endurance is indispensable. To work it effectually, we must persevere in it at all seasons ; and, at whatever hazards, carry in our own persons, as well as by our agents, the blessed Gospel to the homes and hearts of Romanists.

    At a distance, and in imagination, it is easy to suffer for Christ ; but in practice the thing is not so easy. And those who are called to it, though it is really a great honour, feel their need of all the strengthening influences of the Gospel. Of these, the principal is the assurance, that such sufferings are precious to the Lord. Jealousy for the doctrine of grace has led many to disparage the believer's services, of whatever

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 112

53. Ellis house at Letterfrack built on former bog

    Letterfrack · townland · Galway

    Mr. Ellis built the finest house in Letterfrack in a little glen that was a mere bog of barren heath a few years earlier. Flowering shrubs and garden trees now thrived there, a triumph of industry over natural disadvantages.

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    wonderful creation considering that the little glen in which it stands was, a few years ago, a mere bog waving its barren heath, where now the finest flowering shrubs and garden trees display their blooms and ripen their fruits. Having been kindly shown over the place by its worthy proprietor, I never before saw such a triumph of industry over natural disadvantages. Truly it is ' the desert rejoicing and blossoming as the rose.' With the extension of such industry over all Ireland, what a happy island it would be : and this is the great lesson taught by Letterfrack."

    In passing, I must here refer to a visit which I, with a

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 106

54. Fisher's Irish mission schools from Galway to Connemara

    Galway · city · Galway · 1833

    The Rev. J. Fisher, then minister in Galway, studied the Irish language and carried out mission work among local Roman Catholics. He established Irish schools extending westward as far as Connemara, opening up the region to Presbyterian mission activity.

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    It only remains for us to speak of her mission to the Irish Roman Catholics. This has not had one founder, but has been the work of several agents. The first impulse to it was given as far back as 1833, by an address from a worthy clergyman of the Scottish Church, Rev. Dr. M'Leod, to the Synod of Ulster, who, in consequence, passed a law requiring their students to study the Irish language. Soon afterwards, the Rev. J. Fisher, Minister — then in Galway, now in London— warmly took up the cause ; and as far as his duties to his congregation permitted, both studied the language and carried on mission work among the Roman Catholics of his bounds ; specially through Irish Schools, which he established westward, even to Connemara.

    About the same time, the Rev. Robert Allen, Minister of Stewartstown, introduced the same agency into many parts of the north-west, and thus contributed greatly to the opening up of that country to the Gospel, being a man of much prudence, and quiet persevering energy. Both these labourers, with others afterwards, were greatly aided by Miss Charlotte Pringle, of Edinburgh, who, for near a quarter of a century, has collected funds for this work, and in every other way in her power has promoted the spiritual regeneration of Ireland.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 50

55. Old people's land claims in remote districts

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    The author observes that in the remote districts of Connemara, older inhabitants still hold antiquated social notions. They believe that because the land belonged to their fathers, they are entitled to a share of its fruits regardless of who currently tills the soil.

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    stone of the social arch is wanting ; and no laws or political constitution can supply the loss. As a necessary consequence, the rich and poor being too widely separated for sympathy or co-operation, become mutually estranged, and prone to collisions, of which we have seen so many examples in the Continental revolutions. But of such a catastrophe there is no danger in Connemara, and that for other reasons. The Celt is not a revolutionizing animal ; and still less the Celtic mountaineer. He is only too wedded to old customs, and too inclined to content himself with his lot, however miserable, consoling himself with the thought that it' is hereditary. His ancestors were no better off: why, then, should he complain ? In India trades are hereditary : a tailor inherits that employment from his father, and thinks no more of forsaking it for another than of changing his planet. Somewhat the same is the feeling of the old Celts, who, in other respects also, prove themselves to be an oriental race. This principle, being founded on love to ancestors, is so far good ; but in the excess it is ruinous. It hopelessly conflicts with modern civilization, of which the great law is progress : nor is there any resisting this law, more than a railway train in motion. So the uneducated Celt, by clinging to the past, and falling behind his countrymen in their onward march, is either thrown into the ditch, or obliged to fly for bread to foreign lands. This is a terrible calamity to him, with his strong attachment to his native hills and fathers' graves. Alas ! that it should be often the result of the want of a right education, and of an undue attachment to old customs. The extent to which antiquated social notions are still entertained in the remote districts is astonishing. Thus some old people, like the fossils of a past age, imagine that because the land once belonged to their fathers, they are entitled to share its fruits, no matter who tills the soil, or how often it

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 15

56. Spiritually destitute valley at the head of Dingle Bay

    near Dingle Bay · bay · Kerry · 1842

    In 1842, Christian friends of different Churches pointed out a wide valley at the head of Dingle Bay in Kerry as the most spiritually destitute district in the country. The valley stretches from Slieve Mish, south of Tralee, and was selected by the author as his mission field for that reason.

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    The other testimony has reference to my mission in Kerry, and is that of the Presbytery of Cork, which includes most of the Presbyterian clergy in Munster, with their respective congregations. This reverend body, having personally visited my field of operation, and officially examined the whole work, came unanimously to the following .decision, which their Moderator, at his own instance, published in the Banner of Ulster newspaper. He prefaced it with a letter of his own, which also is appended, except one paragraph, that was too complimentary to the author. It should be added, that on my first visiting Kerry in 1842, this district was pointed out to me, by Christian friends of different Churches, as being the most spiritually destitute in that country ; and it was for that reason chiefly, that I selected it. It is a wide valley at the head of the Dingle bay, stretching from Sliav Mish, south of Tralee, to the

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 114

57. Valley near Killary Harbour sunless in winter

    Killary Harbour · estuary · Galway

    Near Killary Bay in Connemara, there is a valley into which the sun never shines during the entire winter because a high mountain intercepts its beams. The author uses this geographical reality as a metaphor for the spiritual privation of the local inhabitants lacking access to the Bible.

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    But even here on earth the importance of the work is partly seen in the peace of conscience and spiritual comfort imparted by it, whenever it is made effectual. In visiting the Killery Bay, to the north of Connemara, I was shown a valley into which, during the entire winter, the sun never shines, its beams being intercepted by a high mountain. What a privation, thought I, to the inhabitants of this valley ! But alas ! infinitely worse is their want of that Sacred Book, through which "life and immortality are brought to light by the Gospel." An open Bible, shone upon by God's Spirit, and scattering beams of truth and comfort over the homesteads of a country, and thus lighting up this world with the glory of the next — that is the true sun of the firmament. And inconceivably wretched are they from whose eyes that light is excluded by a dark mountain of error. Or take another illustration, borrowed from the same district. High up the sides of the "Twelve Pins" I was shown some cottages, the inmates of which, for several months in the winter, are enveloped in fogs, so that they rarely see a clear sky, or enjoy a dry day. I am ashamed to say that I felt more for these people, than for the millions who live all their days in the mists of spiritual ignorance,

    66 SPIRITUAL DISADVANTAGES.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 34

58. Archbishop of Tuam prohibits National Schools in Connemara

    near Connemara · locality · Galway

    In a conversation about education, a local Roman Catholic man regretted that the Archbishop of Tuam had prohibited National Schools in Connemara, while also admitting that converts who began studying the Scriptures had become very intelligent.

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    I then begged him to read the Bible for himself; and said that one of the priests of his Church — Martin Boos — held the same view (substantially) regarding the way of salvation as I did ; and that it was also his opinion that only few would be saved. Indeed he once said he feared that, of his large congregation, not more would be saved than would fill the " sacristy," or little room for the vestments. We then conversed on the blessings of education ; and* he regretted that the Archbishop of Tuam had prohibited National Schools in Connemara. He also admitted, notwithstanding his dislike

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 64

59. Roundstone village layout and living conditions

    Roundstone · town · Galway

    Roundstone is described as a small mountain hamlet in Connemara consisting of one street along the bay, with about one hundred slated houses. Behind the houses were small gardens producing potatoes and cabbages, with a narrow strip of cultivated land bordered by a vast wilderness of heath.

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    Changed is the scene. Let the reader now fancy me settled down for some months at the small village of Roundstone. Circumstances wonderfully affect the importance of places ; otherwise this little village would seldom see itself in print. Such as it is, however, Connemara, with an area as extended as that of some eastern counties, can boast of no other town except Clifden. Besides this, Roundstone then presented -the beau ideal of a mountain hamlet. It consisted of one street, running alongside the bay of the same name, and flanked on the land-side by a dark mountain, rather broad than lofty. The slated houses might be near one hundred. Behind these houses, on the land-side, were small gardens, producing potatoes and cabbages ; and further back were some cultivated fields. All else was an unbroken desert of heath, which, after spreading into vast moors, terminates towards the north in the stupendous " Twelve Pins," the finest view of which is seen from Roundstone. Thus the narrow strip of tillage around the town, as contrasted with this ocean of heath, resembled a piece of green selvage on a web of black cloth..

    Towards the sea the view was not less singular in its own way. The open ocean was not visible ; but in its stead a number of zigzag bays and rugged promontories, intertwining each other in all directions, as if land and sea contended for mastery. The tide was arbiter between them, each reflux turning the scale of victory to one side or other. Of these promontories, the aspect was very desolate, presenting only

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 5

60. Conversation with a Claddagh man on drunkenness and salvation

    Claddagh · electoral division · Galway

    The author held a long conversation, mostly in Irish, with a man from Claddagh about the prevalence and evil of drunkenness and swearing. The Claddagh man admitted that swearing was wrong but that they continued to do it, and the discussion turned to the way of salvation through Christ.

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    In the morning I had a long conversation with a Claddagh man. There was another man present from the same place, but he only listened. We spoke mostly in Irish. I began by referring to drunkenness — the evil and prevalence of which I set fully before him, giving examples of it that had come under my own observation. Meantime one of the men happened to swear ; so I took up that sin next, and said, that while all religions condemned the practice, it was very common. The man admitted this, and said, " We know very well it is wrong, and yet we do it." In reply, I warned him that any sin persisted in against conscience, would cause God to withdraw His light from us, and to leave us in darkness. Still further to show the wickedness of cursing, I quoted

    Dr. G , who says, that since no gain is made by it as by

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 72