Sketches of the Irish Highlands : description, social and religious, with special reference to Irish mission in West Connaught since 1840

Each story keeps the passage it was read from. Open one to read the passage as the book has it, and, where the companion has written its own telling, that too.

1. Bunowen castle ruins famed for hunting hawks

   Bunowen · townland · Galway

   At Bunowen on the Connemara shore stand the ruins of an old castle celebrated in its day for its eyrie of hunting hawks. The castle is noted as the most remarkable place along the coastal road from Roundstone to Clifden.

   Read the passage

   Besides glimpses of the open Atlantic, it presents a succession of islands, bays, sand-hills, and promontories. Of the places on the route, the most remarkable is Bunowen. Here are the ruins of an old castle celebrated in its day for its eyrie of hunting hawks. Worthy of notice, too, as we pass along, is a kind of seaweed, thrown up on the shores after great storms. It is called " Sargossa ; " and by those learned in such matters, it is pronounced to be entirely different from other Irish or British algae. They suppose that it has drifted from a vast distance in the West — probably from the American coasts. In the same way I would account for nuts of a strange kind which I have picked up on this shore ; and still more common are pieces of white coral. The latter, though not always of the same colour, strew all Ballyconree Bay, to the north of Clifden ; and in one place, where they are ground down by friction against the rocks, they form a literal and most beautiful " coral strand." This I had not expected to meet with on our Irish coast.

   Nor should we omit noticing the extraordinary fact, as regards the temperature of this ocean, that in winter it is warmer by several degrees than the atmosphere. Of this the cause is now generally known. The great " Gulf Stream," originating off Mexico, and making the circuit of the northern seas, carries with it this vital warmth to our otherwise cold, and barren country. Hence the genial clime and verdant fields of the Emerald Isle, instead of nine months' frost and snow, as in Labrador of the same latitude. Once the system of heating houses by hot water pipes was supposed to be a new invention ; but here a similar plan has been at work for ages, blessing our countrymen, while they knew it not. What infinite wisdom in thus employing the surplus heat of one country to correct the otherwise excessive cold of another ! By this contrivance the sunshine of the Mexican Gulf pro-

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 101

   As the companion tells it

   Somewhere around here are the ruins of an old castle, and in its day this castle was celebrated for one thing above all: its eyrie of hunting hawks. The book calls Bunowen the most remarkable place along the coastal road from Roundstone to Clifden. The road itself presents a succession of islands, bays, sand-hills, and promontories, with glimpses of the open Atlantic throughout. But Bunowen stands out. The castle is gone to ruin now, but it was known for its hawks, kept and trained here when it was whole. Worth noticing as you pass along the shore is a kind of seaweed thrown up after great storms. It is called Sargasso, and those learned in such matters say it is entirely different from other Irish or British algae. They suppose it has drifted from a vast distance in the west, probably from the American coasts. Strange nuts of an unfamiliar kind have been picked up on this shore too, carried the same way. Still more common are pieces of white coral. They strew all Ballyconree Bay, to the north of Clifden, and in one place, ground down by friction against the rocks, they form a literal and most beautiful coral strand. The writer had not expected to meet with such a thing on the Irish coast. There is the extraordinary fact of the temperature of this ocean as well. In winter it is warmer by several degrees than the atmosphere. The cause is the great Gulf Stream, originating off Mexico, making the circuit of the northern seas, carrying vital warmth to an otherwise cold and barren country. Hence the genial clime and verdant fields of Ireland, instead of nine months of frost and snow as in Labrador, which sits at the same latitude. Once the system of heating houses by hot water pipes was thought to be a new invention, but here a similar plan has been at work for ages, blessing the country while they knew it not.

2. Connemara highlands wilderness with scattered cabins

   near Connemara · locality · Galway

   Between Roundstone and the western ocean stretches twenty-six miles of dark moors, lonely lakes, and heath-clad hills, with only occasional cultivated patches and a few thatched cabins. The road has no ditches or hedges and winds along lake margins and mountain spurs.

   Read the passage

   Fresh horses being here attached to our vehicle, away we start into the real highlands, leaving behind us, as soon as we pass the village, all traces of civilization. Instead of cultivated fields or comfortable houses, we now behold, far as eye can reach, only a waste, heathery wilderness. Often before had the writer beheld similar scenes, but none on a scale so wildly magnificent. The distance from this to the western ocean is fully twenty-six miles ; and yet, all the way there is one interminable succession of dark moors, lonely lakes, wild glens, heath-clad hills, and "cloud-capt" mountains. Occasionally, indeed, we find some cultivated patches, with a few thatched cabins ; but amid the surrounding wilderness, these seem mere dots on the surface. Nay, the very road itself which we travel is peculiar, having no ditches nor hedges on either side, and frequently winding in graceful curves round the margins of the lakes and the spurs of the mountains. Altogether, to a stranger having a taste for such scenes, this region is a theatre of wonders. It might almost be called a new world, being a panorama of the wildest, strangest, and sublimest objects in nature.

   Happily, too, on this occasion, its beauty was enhanced by a blaze of heaven's " living light," which silvered the otherwise dark solitudes, and caused the grim wilderness to smile. Nor is the effect less picturesque when this brilliancy gives way to the sober "hues of eve." Indeed that is the very best time to see the magnificent mountain-cluster, generally called the " Twelve Pins," this latter word being a corruption of the Irish bin or ben, which signifies a precipice. To these hills the mingled lights and shades of evening impart an indescribable charm, specially by the singular contrast between their sunlit and shaded outlines. Like " things of life," these vast shadows sweep their dark wings across the subjacent ravines and lakes, and the distant moors. Amaz-

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 5

3. Ridge of foam near Kilronan

   Kilronan · village · Galway

   Approaching Kilronan by boat in the dark, the author observed a curious natural phenomenon caused by a ledge of breakers. The diagonal dashing of billows caused a ridge of foam to run rapidly along the line.

   Read the passage

   Just as I approached the village of Kilronan, which was our landing-place, it being now dark, I was startled with a curious natural phenomenon. This was caused by a ledge of breakers, which shot out a long way into the sea in a straight line. The billows dashing on this ledge diagonally, caused a high ridge of foam suddenly to rise at one end, and to run, with the rapidity of a race-horse, along the whole line. It then as suddenly disappeared, but at regular intervals was renewed. Really it seemed like a thing of life. With the aid of a little imagination, one could manufacture out of it such a fiction as that of King Donaghoe on his white steed, with silver slippers, careering over the waters of Killarney on a May morning.

   In parting with my boatmen, they directed me to the only place where I could get lodging or food. It was a small cabin ; but I was glad of any place to cover my head. After leaving me, by way of excusing themselves for bringing me over, they reported that I was an invalid priest, visiting the island for the good of my health. But I soon undeceived the people on that point.

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 88

4. Connemara's uncultivable land and grand scenery

   near Connemara · locality · Galway

   Connemara proper, the western division of the territory, is described as overwhelmingly mountainous yet mostly under 100 feet above sea level, with weeping skies and deficient drainage making agriculture impossible over any wide area. The author argues the land's value lies not in crops but in its sublime scenery, with views of the Twelve Pins and the Atlantic.

   Read the passage

   Of the extensive territory described by Mr. O'F., the western division constitutes Connemara proper. It is far the smaller ; but, as regards scenery, the more interesting. Between its views of the Twelve Pins, on one hand, and of the Atlantic on the other, it is indeed the very region of the sublime. And yet, though so mountainous, three-fourths of its surface are not a hundred feet above the level of the sea. This follows from the absence of table-land ; and constitutes its greatest agricultural disadvantage. Weeping skies above, and a deficient drainage beneath, form an impassable barrier to the farmer. Spots there are, indeed, which are more favourable for cultivation, and there industry has triumphed over the wilderness. But, for the reason mentioned, agriculture can never be extended over a wide area. Evidently Nature intended this country to remain uncultivated ; but is it therefore useless ? By no means. While the world lasts, its magnificent scenery will expand the souls of its visitors, and inspire them with thoughts that wander through eternity. It is no waste, then, though it bears no crops. Who finds fault with a picture gallery for not being a diningroom ?

   To the above statistics, we shall add of our own a few particulars of its Natural History. They were picked up incidentally from the people when learning their Irish ; but we cannot vouch for their correctness farther than the fact that they were told by persons who ought to know, and who would not intentionally mislead.

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 8

5. Dissipation in private life in Galway

   Galway · city · Galway

   During a conversation with the author on a headland, a man condemned modern dances as fatally seductive and remarked that there was much dissipation in private life in Galway.

   Read the passage

   Walking on together, we reached a headland stretching into the sea, and there we sat down on the stones. He here related how he had lived, for some years, a dissipated life in London, frequenting balls, and dancing till the morning ; but was by no means happy. On the contrary, when he heard the criers in the streets as he returned home in the mornings, he often wished himself one of them. This reminded me of Colonel Gardiner wishing himself a dog under similar circumstances. He said that he had read the life of that gentleman. He also condemned modern dances, as fatally seductive ; and said that, in private life, there was much dissipation in Galway. This led us to speak of the opposition of the world, in all its forms, to spiritual religion ; and of the absolute necessity of Divine grace to enable us to overcome it. On that point, I quoted the saying of St. Augustine, " Quam suave," &c., " How pleasant it is to want such pleasures." And then, as to our moral inability, I quoted another of his sayings — " Give what thou commandest, and command what thou wilt."

   174 WHAT IS MISSIONARY SUCCESS?

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 84

   As the companion tells it

   As we pass through Galway, there's a story from a book about the Irish Highlands. The author walked with a man to a headland stretching into the sea, and they sat down on the stones. The man told how he had lived for some years a dissipated life in London, frequenting balls and dancing till the morning, but was by no means happy. When he heard the criers in the streets as he returned home in the mornings, he often wished himself one of them. The author was reminded of Colonel Gardiner wishing himself a dog under similar circumstances. The man said he had read the life of that gentleman. He condemned modern dances as fatally seductive, and said that in private life there was much dissipation in Galway. This led them to speak of the opposition of the world, in all its forms, to spiritual religion, and of the absolute necessity of Divine grace to overcome it. The author quoted St. Augustine: "How pleasant it is to want such pleasures." And on moral inability, another of his sayings: "Give what thou commandest, and command what thou wilt."

6. Oughterard as former military station into Connemara

   Oughterard · town · Galway

   Oughterard is described as a pretty village with views of lake and mountains, a river once known for pearls, and notably neat houses compared to other western villages. In the previous generation it served as an important military station, being the chief pass into lawless Connemara.

   Read the passage

   Outerard is a pretty village. All must admire its views of the bright lake on one side, and of the dark mountains on the other ; also its beautiful river, celebrated formerly for its pearls, and now for its picturesque waterfall. Another of its attractions, more homely indeed, but more valuable, is the neatness of its houses, as compared with most other western villages ; while in the vicinity there are several fine villas, embowered in trees, the want of which, as we go westward, sadly detracts from the sceneiy. In addition to all this, Outerard could boast, in the last generation, of being an important military station, being then the chief pass into lawless Connemara. Nor should we omit, that here began Mr. Martin's celebrated avenue to his castle at Ballinahinch, of which he boasted to one of the Royal Georges that, while the avenue to Windsor Castle was only a mile long, this was no less than twenty ! So it was ; and in its entire length it ran through Mr. Martin's own estate. But alas! his hundreds of thousands of broad acres have since passed away from all his race. How are the mighty fallen ! According to the old classic adage — " Sic transit gloria mundi"

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 4

7. Roadside dialogue near Ballynahinch

   Ballynahinch · townland · Galway · 1840

   On the road to Ballinalunch the author encountered a stranger he took for a fisherman, and their exchange exemplified the customary way strangers conversed when meeting by the wayside in Connemara, with the local man attributing the fine weather to God.

   Read the passage

   It may be more satisfactory to the reader if I now permit a Connemara man to speak for himself; presenting, in substance, a conversation which I had with him on the road to Ballinalunch. The individual referred to was a total stranger to me ; but, from his dress, I conjectured that he was a fisherman. In the sentiments expressed by us, of course, there is nothing remarkable ; but they will exemplify the kind of converse usual here amongst strangers when meeting by the wayside : —

   " This is a fine evening."

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 21

8. Ballinakill transformed from waste to village

   Ballynakill · townland · Galway

   The author notes a striking improvement at Ballinakill between two visits. What was nearly a waste had acquired beautiful villas, a fine church with rectory, and a school-house with a respectable Sabbath congregation.

   Read the passage

   " As I approached Ballinakill a few miles further on, I was surprised at the great change in the place. For this I was not unprepared having heard of it long before ; but it exceeded my expectations. At my first visit to Ballinakill it was nearly a waste. But now, besides some beautiful villas, it has got a fine church with a rectory and school-house : and I was told that the congregation on Sabbaths is most respectable. Farther on at Letterfrack is a colony of Quakers, whose characteristic industry has not forsaken them ; for nothing could exceed the comfort and cleanliness of their habitations. What a change from the wild uncultivated glen when I last saw it !

   " One cottage particularly pleased me by its neatness and its nice pleasure-grounds, flanked by as fine a fuschia hedge as I had ever seen. What was my surprise when the driver of the car told me, that formerly this was a filthy hovel where the cattle were housed with the occupants, so that with difficulty he could pick his steps to the fire-place to kindle his pipe ! But the finest house of all is that which was built by

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 106

9. Poor road conditions on the return to Clifden

   Clifden · town · Galway

   The road travelling back to Clifden for the first few miles was in a poor state, lacking bridges over streams and consisting of unbroken rock in certain stretches. A local pony was used to carefully navigate the difficult terrain.

   Read the passage

   In returning to Clifden, the road for the first few miles was indifferent. It had no bridges over the streams, and in some places it consisted of unbroken rock, from one side to the other. But the General's pony, being used to it, picked his steps carefully, and carried me safely to the main road. Here, returning the animal with the servant who accompanied me, I, as before, pursued my way alone. Again my thoughts flowed in a poetical channel, and hence this : —

   Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 110

10. Poverty and wages of lower orders near Galway

    Galway · city · Galway

    The author observes that despite some improvement, poverty among the lower orders remains severe, especially in remote districts where a mower might earn only a shilling a day. The increased trade of Galway town is noted as a local benefit with no appreciable effect beyond that locality.

    Read the passage

    That considerable improvement has taken place in this respect, is undoubted. But the change is more apparent than real ; for if wages have risen, so also has the price of provisions. Employment, too, is very uncertain ; and in remote districts remuneration is still very small. Thus, I have known a mower employed at a shilling a-day ; whereas, in some midland counties, he would have got for the same hard work from half-a-crown to four shillings. And as to the increased trade of the town of Galway — which is one of the most encouraging "signs of the times" — that is only a local benefit. Beyond that locality it has had no appreciable

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 54

11. Recess develops from wilderness to village

    near Recess · population centre · Galway

    The author observed that Recess had grown from a near-wilderness into a proper village, now boasting a hotel, post-office, police barrack, and schoolhouse. This development marked a higher stage of civilization and infrastructure in the area.

    Read the passage

    At my first visit to Recess, it was almost a wilderness. Now it may be called a village, having got a hotel, postoffice, police barrack, and schoolhouse. The latter is connected with the Wesley an body ; and in it, during a recent •visit, I held two services. These, however, were attended only by Protestants ; to the Roman Catholics I found no access but by means of private conversation.

    Wishing to see Lough Ina, which lies embosomed in mountains to the north of Recess, I took as my guide an intelligent little fellow, of about twelve years of age, and a Roman Catholic. During our walk together, I asked him who made all things, which he answered correctly ; but I regretted to find that he knew not who was the Son of God,

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 97

12. Mission school-house at Castlemaine abandoned

    Castlemaine · town · Kerry

    A mission school-house erected about twenty years earlier near Castlemaine was given up when the mission was broken up due to low church funds. William Lunham lamented the loss and expressed hope that a church might yet be erected in the place.

    Read the passage

    In another letter, Mr. Lunham laments the giving up of the mission school-house, which I had got erected there twenty years ago ; and he expresses his confident hope, that by this unlooked-for outpouring of God's Spirit, a Church must, after all, be erected in the place. In this great object, which involves the resuscitation of a useful mission, perhaps some brethren in the Lord, who read these pages, and to whom God has given the means, would kindly assist. If

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 117

13. Desolate moor near Roundstone, all life starved out

    Roundstone · town · Galway

    A wild moor north-east of Roundstone was utterly devoid of life—no birds, insects, domestic animals, or signs of human habitation. The author attributes this total absence of living creatures to famine and starvation, noting that everything that breathed had fled or been starved from the wilds.

    Read the passage

    But here were none even of them ; in a word, not one living creature. All that breathed the breath of life had fled these wilds, or had been starved out of them ! reminding me of the satirical verses on the sterility of the Scottish Highlands—

    " The plague of locusts they secure defy, For in three hours a grasshopper would die."

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 11

14. Holy trout of Cong with gridiron mark

    Cong · parish · Galway

    A Roman Catholic lady recounted a folklore tradition about 'holy trout' in an underground river at Cong. One trout bore the mark of a gridiron, said to have been caused by a County Clare man who carried it off and attempted to broil it, implying a miraculous origin for the mark.

    Read the passage

    Afterwards she introduced a story of certain "holy trout" in a river under ground at Cong, and one of which bore the

    i

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 54

15. Lobster fishing and curraghs on the Galway Bay coast

    near Galway Bay · bay · Clare

    Boys near Galway Bay described how local fishermen took great numbers of lobsters in summer using 'corachs'—small boats once made of wicker-work covered with hides, now a wooden frame covered with canvas. The lobsters fetched six shillings a dozen in Galway.

    Read the passage

    We then spoke of the employment of the people. They told me that some of them took great numbers of lobsters on this coast in the summer, fishing for them in their "corachs,"

    IGNORANCE OF SCRIPTURE HISTORY. 1G3

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft

16. Barren landscape and stone-fenced fields near Oughterard

    Oughterard · town · Galway · 1840

    The country around Oughterard was bare, with fields disfigured by piles of shapeless stones serving as fences. Much of the surface appeared as a pavement of rock, deeply fissured, though wheat grew luxuriantly in the cultivable soil despite the proximity to mountains.

    Read the passage

    As far as Outerard the road possesses little interest. The country around is bare, and the fields are disfigured with piles of shapeless stones, "doing duty" for fences. Much of the surface, too, seems a pavement of rock, though deeply fissured at intervals. In the interstices some sweet herbage struggles into light, while the land capable of cultivation waved with a luxuriant crop of wheat. In such a soil, and so near the mountains, one would not have expected such fertility. Looking beyond the line of our route, we see to the north-east Lough Corrib, with its winding reaches and wooded islands. This lake is a noble sheet of water; but its shores being flat and stony are not picturesque.

    In the absence of other attractions along this road, a stranger may be interested on learning, that at the first stage — Moycullen — was fought, in ancient times, a great battle, in which a native Prince defeated and slew Mahanon Mac Lir, celebrated as a Sea-king and as the Legislator of the Isle of Man. From this conqueror the place derives its name, and not, as some suppose, from the Irish name of the holly-tree.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 2

17. Dr. Dill's post-famine mission in Kerry

    Kerry · county · Kerry

    After the famine, the late Dr. Dill—who had been a warm friend to southern missionaries while pastor at Cork—laboured for some years in the Kerry mission. His work was described as efficient and was situated in the aftermath of the Great Famine.

    Read the passage

    Such, in the order of time, were the several individuals in our own Church, who, I hope, were called of God to seek the salvation of our Roman Catholic countrymen : and if I do not include in the list various others who have since trodden in their footsteps, it is because my subject is the origin of our mission, and my space is limited, not permitting me to say more. It were wrong, however, not to pay a special tribute of respect to the talents and usefulness of the late Dr. Dill, who, while pastor at Cork, was always a warm friend to missionaries in the south, and who himself, after the famine, laboured for some years efficiently in the Kerry mission that

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 50

18. Workmen rebuked for obscene Irish-language talk in Galway garden

    Galway · city · Galway

    The author overheard Father D—'s workmen speaking loudly in Irish behind his garden using obscene language, apparently to annoy him. He confronted one man directly, citing Dr. Gallagher's sermons that whoever lives in mortal sin 'has the devil every night for his bedfellow,' and the man meekly acknowledged his wrongdoing.

    Read the passage

    This morning, in my garden, I overheard Father D — • — 's workmen conversing in Irish behind my garden, when very obscene language was used. That it was done to annoy me, I have no doubt, for they spoke so loud as to be heard a

    138 RIBALDRY REBUKED.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 66

19. Dr. Dill's support for southern missionaries from Cork

    Cork · city · Cork

    While serving as pastor at Cork, the late Dr. Dill was a consistent and warm friend to missionaries working in the south of Ireland. His advocacy and support predated his own direct involvement in the Kerry mission after the famine.

    Read the passage

    Such, in the order of time, were the several individuals in our own Church, who, I hope, were called of God to seek the salvation of our Roman Catholic countrymen : and if I do not include in the list various others who have since trodden in their footsteps, it is because my subject is the origin of our mission, and my space is limited, not permitting me to say more. It were wrong, however, not to pay a special tribute of respect to the talents and usefulness of the late Dr. Dill, who, while pastor at Cork, was always a warm friend to missionaries in the south, and who himself, after the famine, laboured for some years efficiently in the Kerry mission that

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 50

20. Galway shopkeeper reduced to beggary

    Galway · city · Galway

    On a hill beyond B, the author encountered a poor Roman Catholic man who had formerly been a Galway shopkeeper but had been reduced to beggary. The man responded earnestly to discussion of salvation, saying he daily sought it.

    Read the passage

    A Galway Shopkeeper reduced to Beggary — his Religious Opinions.

    On the hill beyond B , I got into conversation with a

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 57

21. Named peaks of the Twelve Bens range

    Bengower · mountain or mountain range · Galway

    The author associates specific peaks—Knockhiggin, Lottery, and Bengower—with biblical mountains in his reflections, hoping these Celtic hills will one day be identified with Christian faith and worship as Hebrew highlands were.

    Read the passage

    Not unnaturally, then, was the writer's mind imbued with religious feelings by gazing on these mountains ; and, in this way, Carmel, Moriah, and Tabor were associated in his reflections with Knockhiggin, Lottery, and Bengower. Nor is he without hope that these grand old Celtic hills, second

    8 ROUNDSTONE DESCRIBED.

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 5

22. Religious disputes and party spirit in 1841 Galway

    Galway · city · Galway · 1841

    In 1841, the town of Galway was not the scene of frequent religious disputes as it was at the time of writing, though party spirit was apparently just as bitter.

    Read the passage

    This tour of preaching began at Gal way in 1841. At that time, this town was not the scene of such freqiient religious disputes as at present ; and yet, party-spirit does not appear to have been then less bitter ; for, not long before my

    Internet Archive sketchesofirishh00mmanuoft, Chapter 85